Flour, Too: Indispensable Recipes for the Cafe's Most
Loved Sweets & Savories (Baking Cookbook, Dessert
Cookbook, Savory Recipe Book)
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flour, too
INDISPENSABLE RECIPES for
THE CAFÉ’S MOST LOVED
SWEETS & SAVORIES
Joanne Chang
Photographs by Michael Harlan Turkell
To my mom and my dad:
with infinite gratitude for always believing in me
and instilling in me an obsessive love of food.
Text copyright © 2013 by Joanne Chang.
Photographs copyright © 2013 by Michael Harlan Turkell.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any
form without written permission from the publisher.
ISBN 978-1-4521-2740-8
The Library of Congress has previously cataloged this title under
ISBN 978-1-4521-0614-4
Designed by Alice Chau
Typesetting by Helen Lee
This book is typeset in Archer and Gotham.
Chronicle Books LLC
680 Second Street
San Francisco, California 94107
www.chroniclebooks.com
CONTENTS
18 I N T R O D U C T I O N
36 I N O U R V O C A B U L A R Y SWEETS
38 I N O U R PA N T R Y 6 2 Classic Apple Turnovers
6 4 Cinnamon-Cream Brioche
45 I N O U R R E F R I G E R AT O R
6 7 Twice-Baked Brioche
50 I N O U R C A B I N E T S 6 9 Vegan Vanilla–Mixed Berry Muffins
70 Brown Sugar–Oat Cherry Muffins
54 I N O U R H E A D S
7 3 Fabulous French Toast
74 Decadent Sunday Waffles
7 5 CJ’s Spiced Banana Pancakes
7 8 Denise’s Dutch Baby
8 0 Steel-Cut Oats with Pear Compote and
Crunchy Pecans
S AVO R I E S
8 4 Garlic and Rosemary Home Fries
8 5 Flour’s Famous Egg Sandwich
8 8 Smoked Salmon Sandwiches with Herbed
Cream Cheese, Arugula, and Red Onion
8 9 Ham and Vermont Cheddar Hot Pockets
9 0 Breakfast Pizzas
9 3 Christopher’s Oven-Baked Potato and
Red Pepper Tortilla
9 6 Winter Greens, Mushroom, and Parmesan Strata
SOUPS SALADS
10 2 Chilled Spanish White Gazpacho 1 5 6 Heirloom Tomato Salad with Feta, Pistachios,
10 3 Chilled Cucumber, Yogurt, and Fresh Herbs Watermelon, and Nigella Seeds
10 4 Vegan Carrot and Ginger 1 5 8 Farmers’ Market Salad with
Buttermilk-Chive Dressing
10 6 Spicy Peanut-Squash with Chickpeas
16 1 Summer Three-Bean and Potato Salad with
10 8 Sweet Potato with Thai Curry and Coconut
Fresh Herbs
1 10 Eggplant Parmesan
16 4 Asian Celery, Fennel, and Edamame Salad
111 Smoky Tomato and Potato with Candied Lemon
1 1 2 Creamy Sunchoke 16 6 Winter Paper Salad with Hazelnut Vinaigrette
1 1 3 Spicy Three-Bean and Corn Chili 16 8 Blood Orange and Beet Salad with
1 16 Chipotle Chicken and Black Bean Toasted Walnuts, Goat Cheese, and
1 1 8 Old-Fashioned Chicken and Orzo with Blood Orange Vinaigrette
Vegetables 170 Warm Quinoa Salad with Roasted Autumn
1 2 1 Autumn Vegetable with Sausage and Green Vegetables and Ginger-Scallion Dressing
Lentils 17 3 Seared Flank Steak Salad with
1 2 4 Mama Chang’s Hot and Sour Crumbled Blue Cheese, Glazed Onions,
and Worcestershire Vinaigrette
1 2 6 Classic Split Green Pea with Smoked Ham
1 2 8 Best-Ever Beef Stew with Pearl Onions, MAINS
Mushrooms, and Red Wine
17 9 Braised Chickpeas and Vegetables with
Couscous, Harissa Yogurt, and Soft Eggs
SANDWICHES
1 8 1 Mushroom and Leek Lasagna with
1 3 2 Fresh Mozzarella with Pesto and Tomatoes
Creamy Béchamel
1 3 4 Grilled Tofu with Olive Tapenade and
1 8 5 Triple-Cheese Pizza
Roasted Vegetables
1 8 8 New England–Style Baked Beans with
1 3 6 Lemony Hummus with Cucumber,
Thick-Cut Bacon
Radish Sprouts, and Red Onion
1 8 9 Slow-Baked Atlantic Salmon with Tabouli
1 3 9 Curried Tuna with Apples and Golden Raisins
1 9 2 Pan-Seared Maine Crab Cakes with
14 0 Chicken with Avocado and Jicama
Spicy Celery Root Rémoulade
14 2 Smoked Turkey with Sharp Cheddar and
1 9 4 Corey’s Homemade Chicken Potpie
Cranberry Chutney
1 9 9 Buttermilk-Fried Chicken
14 3 Roast Beef with Horseradish Mayo,
Crispy Onions, and Tomato 2 0 1 Jeff’s Spicy Turkey Burgers with
Tomato-Onion Jam
14 6 Roast Lamb with Tomato Chutney and
Rosemary Goat Cheese 2 0 4 Roasted Pork Loin with Chive Spaetzle, Slow-
Roasted Balsamic Onions, and Oregano Mojo
1 5 0 Applewood-Smoked BLT
2 0 8 Boneless Beef Short Ribs with
Parmesan Polenta
SNACKS 2 7 5 Balsamic Vinaigrette
2 14 Flour Pickles 2 76 Roasted Tomatoes
2 1 5 Spectacular Spiced Pecans 2 7 8 Caramelized Onions
2 16 Gougères 2 7 9 Vegetable Stock
2 1 8 Flaky Parmesan Cheese Straws 2 8 0 Chicken Stock
2 1 9 Scallion Pancakes 2 8 1 Beef Stock
2 2 2 Goat Cheese, Portobello, and Cumin 2 8 2 Flour Focaccia
Empanaditas 2 8 4 Basic Brioche
2 8 6 Puff Pastry
DESSERTS
2 9 0 Pastry Cream
2 2 6 Pavlova with Plums, Figs, and Plum Wine
2 9 1 Lemon Curd
2 2 9 Lemon-Ginger Mousse
2 9 2 Frangipane
2 3 0 Sugared Crêpes with
Rum-Butterscotch Bananas 2 9 3 Buttercream
2 3 2 Apple Pithivier 2 9 4 Ganache
2 3 5 French Macarons
2 3 8 Kouign-Amann
2 4 2 Maple-Apple Upside-Down Buttermilk Cake 295 I N D E X
2 4 5 Triple-Chocolate Mousse Cake 304 A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S
2 4 8 Best Boston Cream Pie
2 5 4 Bittersweet Chocolate–Espresso Terrine
2 5 6 Croquembouche
2 6 0 Bûche de Noël
2 6 7 Cantaloupe-Mint Seltzer
2 6 8 House-Made Raspberry Seltzer
2 70 Cranberry-Lime-Ginger Seltzer
2 7 1 Mulled Apple Cider
2 7 2 Super-Rich Hot Chocolate
2 7 3 Kids’ (of All Ages) Chocolate Milk
INTRODUCTION
Not a day goes by that someone doesn’t ask me, one time there are sixteen trays in the ovens in
“How can I open a place like Flour?” I am fairly various stages of baking, with another sixteen or
certain that they are not actually looking for step- more waiting their turn to go in.
by-step instruction on how to get into this crazy
How did it get to be 6:00 a.m.? Way too soon, the
business. My guess is that instead they are just
next baker arrives ready to tackle the cake orders
dreaming of how they can gain unlimited access
and set up the pastry case with triple-chocolate
to a never-ending supply of our egg sandwiches,
mousse cakes and Boston cream pies. This baker
sticky buns, gazpacho, and BLTs. When customers
spends the next eight hours writing Happy Birthday,
fall in love with our food, they fall for it hard. Each
Congratulations, and even intricate math formulas
time, I smile and offer a few starting points but the
(for our MIT customers) on cakes; cooking creamy
truth is I often ask myself that same question. How
steel-cut oatmeal; slicing kiwis for fruit tarts; and
did Flour, my little bakery-that-could, evolve into a
making sure that every cake and tart order for the
beloved bakeshop and café that feeds literally thou-
day is complete, well packaged, and passes the “mom
sands every day with made-to-order sandwiches,
test.” In other words, would your mom (who maybe
homemade soups, pizzas, dinners, breakfast pastries,
originally had dreams of your going to med school)
desserts, and specialty drinks? My original business
be impressed and proud of the dessert you are mak-
plan, while ambitious, bears just a passing resem-
ing? If not, it doesn’t leave the bakery.
blance to what happens at Flour every single day.
Following on the case baker’s heels is a bevy of
As you might imagine, the day starts early at Flour.
front-of-the-house staff. The meditative quiet of the
At 4:00 a.m. the opening baker comes in and fires
bakery is now a clanging hum as these staffers set
up the ovens. And while it’s a ridiculously early hour,
up the pastry counter and get the sandwich station
it’s also one of the most magical at the bakery. You’re
and coffee stations ready to go. Then the next baker
alone in the kitchen about to bake off hundreds
arrives—our cookie baker. All of those perfectly
and hundreds of hand-shaped pastries and breads
baked double-chocolate cookies, macaroons, peanut
that within a few hours will be out on the counter
butter cookies, homemade Oreos, and dozens more
and quickly consumed by delighted customers. The
are his or her responsibility. We sell around a thou-
walk-in refrigerators are filled with towering racks of
sand cookies a day, which means that if you’re the
doughs that have been slowly proofing (i.e., develop-
cookie baker, what you bake that day sees its way
ing flavor and texture) overnight. The first order of
into more customers’ hands than any other product.
business is to get all of the trays of scones, brioches,
Talk about pressure! But it’s a good kind of pressure
and other breads out of the refrigerators and into the
when you see someone’s face light up after taking a
ovens so that they’re ready to display by 7:00 a.m.,
bite out of a still-warm oatmeal raisin cookie.
when we open. It’s like a dance: sliding tray upon tray
of pastries into the hot ovens, poking at a scone, pull- At this point it’s hard to believe it is only 8:00 a.m.
ing a corner brioche that’s ready before the others, While most of the world is just getting ready for the
giving a tray a turn, moving a pan of glorious sticky day, our staff is already in full swing. Its time for the
buns out of the oven and onto a cooling rack. At any savory side of Flour with the arrival of Chef, along
18 / FLOUR , TOO
