Garment Production

Level-II
Based on March 2022, Curriculum Version 1

Module Title: Developing Pattern and Conduct Grading

Module code: IND GAP2 M03 0322
Nominal duration: 130Hour

Prepared by: Ministry of Labour and Skill

August 2022
Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
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Table of Contents
Acknowledgment ............................................................................................................. 4
Acronym .......................................................................................................................... 5
Introduction to the Module ............................................................................................... 6
Unit one: Patternmaking tools and equipments .............................................................. 7
1.1 Patternmaking tools and equipment .......................................................................... 8
1.1.1 Functions of Patternmaking Tools………………………………………………………………………………………………...9
1.2 OHS practice ........................................................................................................... 13
1.2.1 Safety measures: ...............................................................................................................................14
Self check-1 .................................................................................................................. 15
Unit Two: Garment Tech Pack/ Specification .............................................................. 16
2.1 Garment entire outfit................................................................................................ 17
2.1.1 Definition of Entire outfit ..................................................................................................................17
2.1.2 Garment teck pack for entire outfit sample .....................................................................................17
2.2Garment tech pack and specification sheet.............................................................. 17
2.2.1 Specification Sheet............................................................................................................................17
2.2.2 Tech Pack ..........................................................................................................................................18
2.2.3 Important of Teck Pack .....................................................................................................................19
2.2.4 Difference Tech pack and Spec sheet ...............................................................................................20
2.3 Steps to build a specification sheet and a tech pack ............................................... 21
2.3.1 Steps to Build a Specification Sheet ..................................................................................................21
2.3.2 Steps to Build a Tech Pack ................................................................................................................22
2.3.4 Sample garment tack pack for entire outfit ......................................................................................23
Self check 2.1 ................................................................................................................ 26
Operation sheet 2.1 ....................................................................................................... 27
Lap Test 2.1 .................................................................................................................. 28
Unit Three: Design Blocks ............................................................................................ 29
3.1Block Design ............................................................................................................ 30
3.1.1 Basic block .........................................................................................................................................30

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3.1.2 FASHION BLOCK ................................................................................................................................31
3.1.3 Types of Block Pattern ......................................................................................................................31
3.2 Fabric performance characteristic ........................................................................... 32
3.2.1 Physical Properties / Characteristics of Fabric: .................................................................................33
3.3 Pattern development ............................................................................................... 37
3.3.3 Pattern Development .........................................................................................................................40
3.3.4 FINISHING OF PATTERNS...................................................................................................................42
3.4 Selecting appropriate block ..................................................................................... 46
3.4.1 Drafting - Basic Pattern Set ...............................................................................................................46
4.1 Basic patternmaking and grading principles ............................................................ 58
4.1.2 Grading principles .............................................................................................................................62
4.1.2 Grading principles .............................................................................................................................65
Operation sheet 4.1 ....................................................................................................... 70
Lap Test 4.1 .................................................................................................................. 71
Unit Five: Pattern Tests ................................................................................................ 72
5.1Pattern alteration ...................................................................................................... 73
5.1.1 Ways of pattern alteration................................................................................................................74
5.1.2 Importance of Pattern Alterations:...................................................................................................74
5.1.3 Patterns Alteration Standards: .........................................................................................................74
5.1.4 Basic Rules or Techniques of Pattern Alteration: .............................................................................74
5.1.5 Principles of Pattern Alteration: .......................................................................................................75
5.2 Developing Facing, closure ..................................................................................... 76
5.2.1 Facing .................................................................................................................. 76
Self check 5.1 ................................................................................................................ 78
References books: ........................................................................................................ 79

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Acknowledgment
Ministry of Labor and Skills wish to extend thanks and appreciation to the many representatives of
TVET instructors and respective industry experts who donated their time and expertise to the
development of this Teaching, Training and Learning Materials (TTLM).

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Acronym

LAP Test =Learning Activity Performance Test

Teck Pack=Technical Package
Spec Sheet=Specification Sheet
OHS=Occupational Health and Safety
BOM=Bill of Material
2D=Two Dimensional
3D=Three Dimensional
HPS=High Point Shoulder
QC=Quality Control
CB=Center Back
CF=Center Front
CAD=Computer Aided Design

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Introduction to the Module
This module covers the knowledge, skills and attitudes required to develop patterns from a fashion
illustration by using basic patternmaking and grading principles. The module includes the
development of tech packs skills for the entire selected outfit of the range. This module is designed to
meet the industry requirement under the garment production occupational standard, particularly for the
unit of competency: Develop Pattern and Conduct Grading.
This module covers the units:
 Patternmaking tools and equipment
 Garment Tech Pack/ Specification,
 Design Blocks ,
 Patternmaking and Grading Principles and
 Pattern Tests
Learning Objective of the Module
 Prepare drawing tools, equipment and workstation
 Develop a tech pack/ specification
 Select blocks to be used
 Apply basic patternmaking principles to develop patterns
 Test patterns
 Grading task and
 Complete patternmaking
Module Instruction
For effective use this modules trainees are expected to follow the following module instruction:
1. Read the information written in each unit
2. Accomplish the Self­checks at the end of each unit
3. Perform Operation Sheets which were provided at the end of units
4. Do the “LAP test” giver at the end of each unit and
5. Read the identified reference book for Examples and exercise

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Unit one: Patternmaking tools and equipments
This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics:
 Setting up workstation
 Set up Patternmaking tools and equipment
 Apply OHS practice
This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page. Specifically,
upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
 Set up patternmaking workstation according to ohs practices and specifications for work.
 Ready Patternmaking tools and equipments for use.
 Identify OHS practices and workplace practices for dealing with hazards.

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1.1 Patternmaking tools and equipment
To work efficiently, the patternmaker must have the proper tools and supplies. To
communicate effectively in the workroom and to minimize errors due to misunderstanding, the
patternmaker should know and understand terminology. This unit introduces tools, supplies,
and definitions of terms used in industry.
The professional patternmaker arrives on the job with all tools required for patternmaking. Each
tool should be marked with an identity symbol and transported in a carrying case. For making better
communication with the workroom and to minimize errors due to misunderstanding, the pattern maker
should know and understand some terminology related to pattern­making tools. Some tools and
equipments are:
 Pattern blocks, scissors for paper and fabric, ruler, square ruler, pencils, marker pens, hole punch,
pins, fashion triangle, French curve, hip curve, pattern notcher, weights, tape measure, eraser,
sharpener, tape, chalk
 Pattern making / grading: Formula collection for pattern making
 Pattern making paper, card board
 Selected fabric, facing material and accessories for cutting, Piece of fabric (Abujedid, bobline)

Fig 1.1 pattern making tools

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1.1.1 Functions of Patternmaking Tools
Tools provide the symbols used in marking fabric and patterns in the production of garments. Symbols
are like a silent language that is understood among the designer, seamstress, grader, marker maker, and
production personnel. Without these symbols, garments would not be cut or stitched with accuracy.
Missing or misplaced symbols disrupt the flow of production. The entire above pattern making tools
have explained the below with their function:

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1.2 OHS practice
May include but not limited to:
 Manual handling techniques  Ergonomic arrangement of workplaces
 Standard operating procedures  Following marked walkways
 Personal protective equipment  Safe storage of equipment
 Safe materials handling  Cleaning of work space
 Implement in work flow rest breaks
The apparel industry is a labour­intensive industry. In an existing garment factory or in a new set­up
workers’ health and safety must be considered in the first place. Workers are the main resources that
keep the machine running in a factory, and making the desired products. In an unhealthy workplace,
workers could not work for a long time. All companies must follow health and safety policies.
In a garment unit, you need to take care of the following points at the factory level.
 First aid box  No cables left loose or visibly hanging
 Maintain accident resister  Enough light to the shop floor
 Fire extinguishers with marked area  Broken needle record policy
 Emergency lights on the floor and in the  Canteen for workers
path to the exit  Enough toilets for workers and members of
 Fire alarm staff
 Exit signs  Safety measures followed at every
 Exit doors should be kept open while the workstation
factory is working  Adequate pure drinking water supply
 Yellow lines on the shop floor to demarcate  Encourage workers to use safety masks
a pedestrian pathway and space for where needed
machines  Voluntary overtime work
 Factory layout and evacuation plans
 No obstruction in the aisles on the shop
floor

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1.2.1 Safety measures:
Following are few examples of work safety that must be followed in the shop floor.
Fabric Store
a) Don’t keep fabric roll on the floor. Store fabrics on the racks or on pallets
b) Keep enough space for walking and fabric and other item movement
c) Musk
d) have air ventilation and enough light.
Cutting Section
 Wear metal hand gloves while operating cutting machine
 Don’t use loose wire. All power supply must be covered
 Wear mask
Stitching floor
a) Use Needle guard while operating on a e) Provide height­adjustable chair to
sewing machine workers
b) Keep walking space free of obstacle f) Enough light
c) Wear mask in the sewing floor
d) Keep enough space at each sewing
workstation for operator movement
Finishing section
 Wear a mask while working on a chemical process
 Keep steam pipelines insulated

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Self check-1
Test-I Matching
Instruction: select the correct answer for the give choice. You have given 1 Minute for each question.
Each question carries 5 Point.
A B
­­­­­­­­­1. OHS practice A. Used for drafting
­­­­­­­­­2. Thick brown paper B. Persona protective equipment
­­­­­­­­­3. French curve C. Used to transfer lines or symbols from on pattern to another
­­­­­­­­­4. Tracing wheel D. Used to make notch marks
­­­­­­­­­5. Notcher E. Used to draw curve lines of armhole.

Test II: short Answer

Instruction: write short answer for the given question. You are provided 3 minute for each question
and each point has 5Points.
1. What are the required take cares someone who working in garment industry?

2. Why you use patternmaking tools and equipments in pattern workstation?

3. Write the function of patternmaking tools and equipments?

Note: Satisfactory rating – above 60% Unsatisfactory ­ below 60%

You can ask you teacher for the copy of the correct answers

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Unit Two: Garment Tech Pack/ Specification

This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content

coverage and topics:

 Identifying entire outfit

 Interpreting and understand garment tech pack

 Preparing garment tack pack for entire outfit

This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.

Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:

 Identify the entire outfit

 Prepare a techpack for the entire outfit

 Complete pattern specification sheets and attached to patterns for storage.

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2.1 Garment entire outfit
2.1.1 Definition of Entire outfit
An assemblage of articles that equip a person for a particular task, role, trade, etc. an explorer's outfit.
A set of usually matching or harmonious garments and accessories worn together; coordinated
costume; ensemble: a new spring outfit. A set of articles for any purpose: a cooking outfit.

2.1.2 Garment teck pack for entire outfit sample

Fig 2.1 Entire outfit sample

2.2Garment tech pack and specification sheet
Specification Sheets and Tech Packs are both very important documents for those in the fashion
industry, when working with factories to turn your designs into finished products. These documents
ensure that your product looks, feels and fits the way you want it to.
2.2.1 Specification Sheet
The specification sheet is commonly referred to as 'Spec Sheet'. The spec sheet is a component of the
Technical Package (Techpack). A specification sheet describes your product in technical detail. It
shows a flat drawing of your product, a technical drawing for the manufacturer, all relevant
measurements, and technical details on the type of materials used to create the product.

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2.2.2 Tech Pack
Tech pack or Technical Package is a detailed blueprint describing a product’s design so it can be
manufactured accurately to achieve the look desired by the designer. A Tech pack is typically a
document created by designers, technical designers, and product developers. It includes design
sketches, measurements and specs, color ways, bill of materials, material images, packing instructions,
care instructions, construction details, and much more.
Techpack is a dynamic document that needs to be updated after every product change. Designers and
product developers need to continuously work on the tech pack to provide accurate details of a product
to the manufacturer.

Fig 2.2 Apparel Tech pack

A typical tech pack include
Product Summary – This includes a design cover image (typically a flat sketch). Also, a product
code, name, description, color, date of creation, last modification date, season, material description,
supplier, selling price, country of origin, and product life cycle stage.

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Technical Drawing– Technical drawings specify product details from different angles – front, back,
side and inside.
Measurements/spec sheet – This includes measurements (point of measures) across all sizes of the
product along with any tolerances.
Colors Pitching – This lists the different product color ways (or options) and describes which color
body part goes with which product color way.
Care Instructions – Details all the care instructions, care symbols, and material composition included
in the product’s care label.
Bill of Material – Bill of Material (BOM) is the list of all components required to create the final
product along with their quantity, size, price, and supplier. Items included are fabrics, care labels,
buttons, zippers, hangers and packaging materials etc.
Material Images – This includes pictures of all the materials and components used in the product.
3D Images and Assets – These include the 3D product images created using 3D design software.
Comments and Feedback -This section is used once the first sample of the product is received.
Product development team can review the sample and add comments and feedback for any changes
they expect from the manufacturer.

2.2.3 Important of Teck Pack

Reduces errors – A good tech pack contains all the information about a product. In other words, a
tech pack is a comprehensive explanation of the expectations a designer has from the
manufacturer. It clearly communicates all the product details, which decreases the chance of
mistakes.
Avoids Delays – When details are clear in a tech pack, it enables the factory to plan manpower,
resources and block production capacity. This avoids delays in launching new products to market.
Controls Quality – Whenever product samples are ready, a tech pack can be used as a reference to
check quality.
Saves Time – With tech packs, the manufacturer can make your product accurately the first time
around. This saves time involved in re­work, re­approvals and production.
Improves Collaboration – Techpack enhances collaboration and removes information gaps.

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 Decreases Cost – Firstly, brands can send a tech pack to multiple manufacturers and receive
product quotes to compare and negotiate prices, quantities, and terms. Secondly, a detailed tech
pack reduces revisions, therefore reducing the overall product development cost and time.
Accurate Quotations – A tech pack with a detailed breakdown of the product enables the
manufacturer to quote product costs accurately. If required, the manufacturer can also provide a
detailed cost breakdown by component (materials, trims, packaging, labor etc).

2.2.4 Difference Tech pack and Spec sheet

A Spec Sheet includes:
a) Product Code (Style Number For Fabric e) Placement details.
And Fabrication) f) Materials and Trims
b) Product Description g) Reference Materials
c) Technical Sketch h) Graded Spec
d) Detailed Measurements
A Techpack includes:
 A Pattern  Bill Of Material (BOM)
 Testing Details (FPT and GPT  Updated with comments on garment
requirement) samples submitted to buyers. Mainly
 Costing Details size set sample and PP sample
 Quality requirement comments.
 Technical sketch  Some buyers also include mini marker

 Workmanship and stitching instructions and fabric consumptions in the apparel

techpack
 Sample of Fabric, colour combination
 Test requirements
for trims for different base colours
 Quality Control
 Packaging Information

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2.3 Steps to build a specification sheet and a tech pack
2.3.1 Steps to Build a Specification Sheet
The following steps are involved in making a garment spec sheet.
1. Develop a spec sheet template
2. Fill up the basic information regarding the design
3. Make a technical sketch of the garment
4. Specify all the measurements of the finished garments
5. Technical information to be provided on the spec sheet

Step-1: Develop spec sheet template

To prepare a spec sheet for the new design, you first need to develop a spec sheet template.
Step-2: Fill up the basic information regarding the design
At the top of the sheet these all information’s are mentioned:
 Company logo  Season of the style
 Product description  Buyer Name
 Product style and code  Fabric Design
Step-3: Make a technical sketch of the garment
The front page of a Specification Sheet usually contains pictures of front and backline sketches of the
product. The drawings/sketches are usually produced using Adobe Illustrator or could be made with
hand as well.
Step-4: Specify all the measurements of the finished garments
The measurements play a very crucial role in deciding the fit of the garment. Pattern makers use
measurements as a guide for the general size and fit of a particular finished garment. So some of the
POM’s are as follows:
1. Body Length: length of the garment from HPS (high point shoulder) to the bottom sweep.
2. Across Chest: Measured 1” below armhole horizontally from edge to edge.
3. Waist: Measured horizontally from edge to edge to a specific distance below HPS.
4. Bottom Hem: Measured side seam to seam
5. Shoulder seam: Measured from HPS along the seam or along the natural fold line to the outer
shoulder edge.

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6. Across Front: From specified point below HPS, measure straight across edge to edge of armhole.
7. Across Back: From specified point below HPS, measure straight across edge to edge of armhole.
8. Bicep: Measured 1” below armhole, measured straight across edge to edge parallel to the sleeve
opening.
9. Cuff/Sleeve Opening: Measure along cuff/sleeve opening, edge to edge.
10. Front Neck Drop: From back neck seam to top edge of the front neck.
11. Back Neck Drop: From imaginary line to the top edge of back neck seam.

2.3.2 Steps to Build a Tech Pack

1. Produce a tech pack for every item you design.
2. Don’t forget to include your pattern (physical or digital file).
3. Every sample received and revision notes documenting the development should be included.
4. Ideally, attach the Techpack to a sealed sample.
5. Don’t forget to include packing and QC checklists.

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2.3.4 Sample garment tack pack for entire outfit

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 Fig 2.3 girls 7-16 skirts tech pack

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Self check 2.1
Test-I Matching
Instruction: match the correct answer from column “A” with column “B”. You have given 30 Minute
for each question. Each question carries 3 Point.
A B
­­­­­1. Technical Package F. Company logo
­­­­­2. Garment entire outfit G. Product Summary
­­­­­3. Spec sheet H. Describes your product in technical detail
­­­­4. Content of teck pack I. Detailed blueprint describing a product’s design
­­­­5. Basic information at the top of spec sheet J. Harmonious garments and accessories worn
together

Test II: short Answer

Instruction: write short answer for the given question. You are provided 3 minute for each question
and each point has 5Points.
1. What are the important of teck pack?
2. Write down at least three contents of teck pack?
3. What is the difference between teck pack and spec sheet?
4. Explain garment entire outfits.

Note: Satisfactory rating – above 60% Unsatisfactory ­ below 60%

You can ask you teacher for the copy of the correct answers

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Operation sheet 2.1
 Operation title: Girls 7-15 skirts teck pack
 Purpose: To understand skirts garment design technical package preparation.
 Instruction: Using the figure below and given required information of teck pack with detailed
sketch. You have given 3hours for the task and you are expected to write the answer on the
given line.

Figure given for operation sheet 2.1

 Tools and requirement:ruler,paper,hip curve rulers, pencil and eraser,

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 Steps in doing the task
1. Produce a tech pack for every item you design.
2. Put your pattern (physical or digital file).
3. Include every sample received and revision notes.
4. Attach the Techpack to a sealed sample.
5. Include packing and QC checklists.
 Quality Criteria: the given information and detailed sketches are set clearly at accurate place.
 Precautions: use the right tools for the right purpose.

Lap Test 2.1

Instructions: Given necessary templates, tools and materials you are required to perform the
following tasks within 4 hour.

 Task­1: Perform liner measurement using ruler

 Task­2: perform detail sketches every items of the design.
 Task­3: mark the required information’s and symbols from the design
 Task­4: Test everything through QC checklists.

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Unit Three: Design Blocks

This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics:
 Analyzing block design
 Identify fabric performance characteristic to affect pattern piece
 Preparing plan to develop pattern
 Determining ease allowance
 Selecting appropriate block
This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
 Analyze Design to identify appropriate modifications.
 Identify Fabric performance characteristics that may affect garment pattern.
 Plan pattern development according to design, material, measurements, quality
standards and workplace practices.
 Determine Ease allowances
 Select appropriate block.

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3.1Block Design
Block patterns are the basic shapes which are later transformed into new garment designs.
You might find them not only in the apparel field but in bag, shoes and many other fields, which I
know nothing about. So let’s get back to clothing.
The block pattern section might be divided into two categories: the basic block and the fashion block.
3.1.1 Basic block
The basic block pattern is a parent pattern, a foundation from which all other styles evolve. It is a well­
fitting pattern that is pretty simple and doesn’t have any styling details. Usually, it has seam
allowances, but some articles and books tell the opposite.

Fig 3.1 Basic Dress Block

3.1.1.1 Types of Basic Blocks

Most of the time, the basic block has the minimal sufficient wearing ease. The most common ones are:
Loose—for designs with a relaxed fit;
Semi-fitted—like in a sheath dress;
Fitted—for sleeveless designs or fabrics that stretch.
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The basic blocks don’t only differ in silhouettes—there are separate ones for different types of
clothing:
 Dresses, blouses and skirts  Jackets
 Pants  Coats, etc

3.1.2 FASHION BLOCK

Fashion or intermediate block is a basic shape that is in use continually; it’s a pattern piece that keeps
popping up in many designs of a company or a wardrobe.
Every brand or every sewist will have a unique collection of fashion blocks.

Fig 3.2 Fashion Block

3.1.3 Types of Block Pattern

Basically there are four different type of block, the standard block, the simplified block, the trade
block and the tailoring block.
1. Standard block
The standard block is most widely used basic foundation which follows the natural lines of the figure
and is little influenced by other considerations. The main objective of standard block is to provide a
reliable basis of correct proportions and fit. More specific blocks can be prepared with the help of
standard block and every type of pattern can be checked.

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The standard block is simple in construction and may be neutral as it need not emphasize fashions
exaggerations. The Standard block is drafted without any turnings (seam allowance).
2. Simplified block
Simplified block is produced by a simple method of drafting. It is very simple in construction so more
suitable for schools and technical classes, where the primary object of drafting is to have a reliable
pattern for practical dressmaking.
Simplified block is made to individual measurements.
3. Trade block
The Trade block is an adaptation of the Standard block made to suit various requirements of the
wholesale manufacturing trade. The proportions a trade block may follow one of the numerous ‘Size
Charts’ used in the ‘wholesale’, or be adapted to fit a special dress stand. The block may emphasize
or underline some current fashion trends.
Trade block includes all seam allowances and notches for high speed production of industry.
Trade blocks undergo constant modifications according to change of fashion, developments in factory
technique and ideas in retailing (e.g. the sizing system in shops).
4. Tailoring block
The Tailoring block is an adaptation of the Standard block. Tailoring block includes a few special
features and proportions of mostly jacket patterns drafted by tailors. These special manipulations are
related to the technique of high­class tailoring, to give a garment its correct final shape.
3.2 Fabric performance characteristic
In garment manufacturing the main raw material used is fabric which is either woven or knitted or
nonwoven. In addition to textile fabrics, sometimes leather and fur are also used in apparel
manufacturing. The fabric should have appropriate texture and color according to end use. Cover
factor, tensile extensibility, bending and shear rigidity, frictional hysteresis, thickness, and lateral
compressibility are the important fabric properties. Fabric characteristics distinguish one fabric from
another.

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3.2.1 Physical Properties / Characteristics of Fabric:
Physical properties are generally the static physical dimensions of a fabric. The physical properties
used for describing a fabric are given below.
1. Fiber or filament: type, size and length
2. Yarn: linear density, diameter, twist and number of ply
3. Weight: grams per meter or yards per pound
4. Thickness
5. Fabric structure: for woven fabrics: type of weave, count of war and weft, ends per inch (EPI),
picks per inch (PPI). For knitted fabrics: type of knit, wales per inch (WPI), course per inch (CPI)
and loop length
6. Non­fibrous matter: residual chemicals left over the fabric
7. Finishes: chemicals and mechanical finishes applied to the woven fabric to improve the durability,
and/or utility values
8. Fabric width: the length of the filling or course
9. Color, hue, value and intensity: hue in color refers to the type of spectrum such as red, green, blue,
yellow, etc. Value refers to the shade of spectrum such as light blue or dark blue. Intensity refers to
the degree of brilliance such as bright light blue or dull light blue
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10. Fabric density: weight per unit of volume
11. Surface contour: the geometric dimension of the surface plane
Six major categories of fabric characteristics that are of significance for the garment manufacturer are:
A. Style characteristics E. Durability characteristics
B. Hand characteristics F. Garment production working
C. Visual characteristics characteristics
D. Utility characteristics
A. Style Characteristics:
Style characteristics generally change, which has an effect on the emotional appeal the fabric imparts
to the consumer. This is validated when a customer handles a fabric and rates the fabric with
adjectives like stiff, soft, hard, etc.
B. Hand Characteristics:
Hand characteristics are the transforms in the fabric surface with hand maneuvering which apply
tensile, compression and molding forces on the fabric. The hand characteristics involve few utility
characteristics. The characteristics that influence the fabric hand are:
1. Thickness compressibility 7. Flexibility self flex, resistance flex,
2. Plane compressibility maintenance flex and reflex
3. Elongation 8. Resilience
4. Elasticity 9. Gravity drape, gravity sag and gravity
5. Torsion elongation
6. Malleability
C. Visual Characteristics:
Visual characteristics are the changes in color values when either the fabric or light is moved. Visual
characteristics can be measured in all its aspects with instruments such as the Cary or Farrand
spectrophotometers used for measuring static visual values. This includes measuring color change due
to either fabric or light movement.
D. Utility Characteristics:
Utility characteristics refer to the comfort, fit and wearing characteristics of a garment while the fabric
experiences mechanical, thermal or chemical conditions during the usage of the garment. The

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transmission and transformation are the two main types in this category. A transmission characteristic
transmits mass or energy through the fabric. It alters physical properties of the fabric without
obliterating the fabric.
a) Transmission characteristics:
 Weight  Radioactivity transmission
 Thickness  Air permeability
 Elongation  Water permeability
 Moisture transmission
b) Transformation characteristics:
1. Color fastness 9. Moisture absorption
2. Crease resistance 10. Moisture retention (drying)
3. Crease retention 11. Pilling
4. Crack resistance 12. Scorching
5. Dimensional stability 13. Soiling
6. Felting (matting) 14. Shrinkage
7. Fusing 15. Static electricity
8. Mildew resistance 16. Yarn slippage
E. Durability Characteristics:
Durability characteristics are the ability of a fabric to retain the utility and style characteristics during
wear. It is an indirect measure of stress, which destroys the fabric or its capability to retain the
required style or utility characteristics.
The durability characteristics are:
1. Tearing strength 6. Dry cleaning durability
2. Tensile strength 7. Fire resistance
3. Abrasive strength 8. Launder ability
4. Bursting strength 9. Moth resistance
5. Corrosive strength
10. Radiation absorption strength 11. Yarn severance

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F.Garment Manufacturing Working Characteristics:
Garment production working characteristics affect the quality of product as well as cost of production.
Some working characteristics, such as seam strength, are measured by durability limits. The working
characteristics of a fabric are:
 Coefficient of friction (cutting, sewing,  Yarn severage
pressing and packaging)  Bondability strength (fused, cemented and
 Sewed seam strength heat­sealed seams)
 Sewed seam slippage (yarn slippage)  Die mouldability
 Sewing distortions  Pressing mouldability
A. Characteristics of Woven Fabric:
Two or more sets of yarns interlaced to form the fabric structure. Yarns interlace at right angles.
 Can be ravelled from any cut edge.  Stable to stress, less air permeable,
 May be bowed or skewed. especially with dense fabric.
 Usually lighter in weight because less yarn  Provide maximum hiding power and
is used. cover.
 Possess limited stretch and adaptability to  More stable in use and care.
body movement.  May shrink less than 2%.
 Bulkiness and recovery from wrinkle
depend on weave structure.
B. Characteristics of Knitted Fabric:
Series of interconnected loops made with one or more sets of yarns.
 Can be ravelled from top to bottom. Warp  Good recovery from wrinkles; air
knits cannot ravel. permeable.
 Fabric can snag and run, bowed or  Possess open spaces between yarns and
skewed. bulky.
 Usually heavier because more yarn is  Porous and less opaque.
used.  Less stable in use and care.
 Possess stretch and elasticity, adapts to  Higher shrinkage unless heat­set.
body movement.
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3.3 Pattern development
3.3.1 Pattern
Patterns are the outline of each components of a basis of which the fabric is cut.
garment. Pattern making is the Patterns are achieved by two methods namely,
technique to make patterns for all components of Flat method and Draping method.
a garment. It is an art of manipulating
and shaping a flat piece of 2D fabric into 3D
garment form. Pattern making is a
bridge between design and production. A sketch
can be turned into a garment through
a pattern which interprets the design in the form
of the garment components. The job
of a pattern maker is to interpret the designs into
sample pattern pieces then drafting
them. Pattern for a garment is the blue print on the
Fig 3.3 patters
3.3.1.1 Importance of Pattern Making
• Basic pattern can be used for making dresses with same measurements.
• New patterns can be made by making changes in the basic pattern.
• Used for changing shapes & sizes.
• It is useful for both beginners and well­experienced persons.
• It helps to save time and cloth while cutting cloth using patterns.
3.3.1.2 Types of Patterns
1. Basic Pattern / Block Pattern: The pattern we make for garment manufacturing is called a basic
pattern. Different patterns suitable for different styles can be developed from this basic pattern. It is
also called Sloper or Block pattern. e.g. Basic Bodice, Basic Skirt, Basic Sleeve etc
2. Working Pattern: For developing styles from a pattern, for slashing & manipulating, we use
pattern, and these patterns are called working patterns. Different experiments and changes can be made
in this pattern. e.g., Collar band, Pocket etc.
3. Production Pattern: The patterns we build up after completing it with necessary seam allowance
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and marking required is called production pattern. The information such as symbol, cut number,
allowances etc. are marked. We cut clothes using this pattern.
4. Industrial Patterns: The patterns which we use for mass production in readymade garment
industry are known as industrial pattern. e.g., Shirt patterns
5. Commercial Patterns: It is readymade patterns available in the market. It is constructed according
to the standard measurements. It contains all instructions to cut and stitch the garments.
6. Personal Patterns: The Pattern which is used for customized tailoring is coming under this
category which is being prepared for a specific measurement exclusively for a person.
7. Graded Pattern: In industry the patterns are graded according to the size requirement based on the
order. Usually, the medium size patterns are graded to other sizes by applying grade rules.
8. Computer Aided patterns: Nowadays patterns are made through software with the given
measurements and it is being graded to other sizes also.
3.3.2 Pattern- Making: Terminology
1. Block/Sloper: Sloper is a term given to a very basic set of pattern piece used to make patterns of
any style. This is a term for a paper cutting of basic bodice, skirt, sleeve or any such basic pattern from
which all the other designs are developed. Block normally represents the dimensions of a specific form
or figure. It has darts to fit to the contours of the body but no other design features. It is a foundation
that is used to make the pattern for a design and has no seam allowances. It is important that the
correct block is chosen for the design; this not only saves time during adaptation but can affect the
final shape. The basic blocks can be drafted to fit individual figures by using personal measurements
instead of the standard measurements listed in the size chart.
2. Muslin: Muslin is used for making test fits. This is basically an unbleached plain woven cotton
fabric. It is available in light, medium and heavy weight. Medium quality is used for test fitting and
draping.
3. Pattern: Pattern is developed from the block that includes all the information needed for cutting
And production of the garment including seam allowance.
4. Seam Allowances: The amount of seam allowance required for each seam line may vary depending
on the location and end purpose. Generally the seam allowances as followed in the industry are ­
• ¼" – for sharp curves

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• ½" – for smoother curves like neckline, armhole, waistline, style line, etc.
• 1" – for straight seam line like side seam, centre line, shoulder, plackets, etc.
• 2" – for straight edge hem line in dresses, skirts, etc.
5. Ease: Ease is the amount of a garment allows the wearer beyond the measurements of their body.
Ease is not generally included in sizing measurements. Ease is comprised of two separate measuremen
ts, wearing ease and design ease. Wearing ease is the amount added to a person's body measurements
so one can move in a garment. Design ease is the amount of fullness added at the key body points that
creates the overall look or style of a garment. Wearing ease for different body parts are:
­ Bust area – Add 2 to 4 inches to the bust measurement. The larger the bust and body size the more
ease to factor in.
­ Waist area – Add ½ to 1 ½ inches to allow for turning around, bending and raising arms.
­ Hip area – Add 2 to 4 inches, again, the larger the body size or give of the fabric, the more ease to
consider.
6. Grain Line: Grain line is a line drawn from end to end on each pattern piece to indicate how thePatt
ern should align with the lengthwise grain of the fabric.

Fig 3.4 Grain Line

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7. Basic Pattern Set: It is a 5­ piece pattern set
consisting of a front/back bodice front/back
skirt and a long sleeve, which represents the
dimensions of a specific form or figure. It is
developed without design features and is
always traced for pattern development.
Fig 3.5 Basic pattern set
8. Balance: Refers to hang and proportion of the garment.
9. Balance Marks: Marks made on edges of complimentary pattern pieces that indicate corresponding
seam line and area. They are a useful construction guide on all seams.
10. Dart: Wedge shape or triangular shape marked on the pattern that controls the fit of the garment.
Dart legs: The two sides of the triangular shap
e & should be of the same length.
Dart point: The point at which the dart ends.
Dart intake: The amount of suppression taken
between the dart legs.
Apex : The highest point on the bust

Fig 3.6 Dart

3.3.3 Pattern Development
Pattern development is the process of transforming a design into its required flat pattern pieces and
then drafting them out, the job of a pattern maker is to interpret the designer's into sample pattern
pieces and then drafting them. Pattern making can be divided in two stages namely measuring
correctly & knowledge of technique devised to include necessary seam allowances. Measuring the
human body is the precursor to developing garments to fit the body. Pattern for a
garment is the blue print on the basis of which the fabric is cut and the same is achieved by the
following methods:
a. Draping Method
b. Flat Drafting Method
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3.3.3.1 Draping
Draping method is the oldest pattern making
method and is generally regarded as a creative
approach. In this method a piece of two­
dimensional fabric is draped directly on a dress
form or figure and made to fit on the dress
form to achieve the desired look or shape. The
fabric may conform to the basic shape of the
form or arranged artistically in folds for a
specific design. This muslin pattern is then
transferred on the paper, corrections are made,
if any, and then the same are converted into a
final pattern.

Fig 3.7 Draping

a) Three Stages of Draping

 A muslin cloth is spread on a dress form & attached it to using a pin. Mark darts using tailor's
chalk for getting correct size& shape. After fitting the dress correctly in the dress form, it is
removed from the dress form.
 Then, using tracing wheel & carbon paper, the parts we marked in the muslin cloth and darts
are copied on a brown paper. Thus, we can develop suitable patterns.
 Using temporary stitches we can make a dress and wear it on a dress form and after rectifying
the defects it can be stitched.
b) Principles of Draping
 Always use grain lines.
 Straight grain should always run perpendicular to the floor and cross grain parallel to the floor.
 The body lines such as bust line, waistline, hipline etc should be parallel to the floor
 Use good quality pins that do not loose shape easily.
 Establish seam lines on the form
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  Tear the muslin piece instead of cutting
 Check the balance of the warp and weft
 Mark grain line on muslin; mark cross grain at the fullest part of the dress form
 Place the muslin on the form as per the marked lines, place it in position with pins
3.3.3.2 Drafting
Flat Pattern Drafting is a method where body or dress form measurements are taken for developing a
pattern. With step by step procedure, the measurements are then converted into a pattern. This system
depends on accurate measurements to complete the paper pattern. There are limitless designs, which
can be achieved for workable garments.
Flat drafting may be done in conjunction with a Drafting is easy to understand and is considere
dress form so that as the design evolves, propor d as the fastest and most efficient pattern desig
tion and balance in the garment can be checked n method.
side by side. It is important to transfer the
pattern on to muslin to test the fit, on a dress
form or a human figure. Flat pattern cutting is
now widely used because of its accuracy of
sizing and the speed with which complicated de
signs are made. By manipulating basic blocks
we can create new designs. Pattern drafting is a
system of pattern cutting that uses a combinatio
n of ease allowance and body measurement tak
en from body measurement of the customer or
dress form measurement to create patterns for
Fig3.8 Drafting
the chosen design.

3.3.4 FINISHING OF PATTERNS

 Finishing of patterns means writing the name, size, number etc. on pattern pieces.
 Symbols are also used for easy cutting and use of patterns.

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3.3.4.1. Pattern Information on Industrial Blocks
 The name of the each piece  Style number
 The size of the each piece  Notches ­ Marks that are needed to help
 Number of pieces to be cut assemble garment sections correctly.
 Landmarks  Directional Fabrics ­ For fabrics which
 Symbols (Folding symbol etc.) have designs in one direction such as
 Balance line marks floral print, stripes, plaid, velvet, fur

 Seam allowance etc. A symbol "cut one way" or (?) is

 Construction lines indicated on the pattern.

 Grain lines  Seam Allowances.

3.3.4.2 Symbol keys used in Pattern making

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3.3.3.5 Difference between Block Pattern and Production Pattern:
There are some differences between them. This is discussed below:

3.3.3.6 Pattern Defects

 Some parts of pattern are missing, ­­ probably because the marker did not include the correct
number of parts.
 Mixed parts­­ probably because the marker is not correctly labeled, resulting in a marriage of
wrong sized parts.
 Patterns not facing in correct direction on napped fabrics. Not all patterns facing in same
direction (either way) on a one­way fabric.
 Patterns not aligned with respect to the fabric grain.
 Poor line definition ­­ (e.g. too thick chalk; indistinctly printed line, perforated lay not
powdered) leading to inaccurate cutting.
 Skimpy marking, ­­­ caused by either the marker did not use the outside edge of the pattern; or
the pattern was moved or swung after partial marking

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3.4 Selecting appropriate block

3.4.1 Drafting - Basic Pattern Set

The basic pattern is the foundation upon which pattern making, fit, and designs are based. The basic
dresses made up of five distinct parts ­ Front bodice, Back Bodice, Front Skirt, Back Skirt and Sleeve.

Fig 3.9 Basic Pattern set

3.4.1.1 Basic Bodice
Basic Bodice is one of the basic patterns that come under basic pattern set which covers the upper
body part. It has darts to fit to the contours of the body but no other design features.
Across Shoulder : 36 cm
Waist Round : 76 cm
Shoulder to Bust Point : 24 cm
Bust Point to Bust Point : 18 cm
Drafting Procedure:
Square across and square down from zero. 0 ­ 4 = Chest/4 + 3cm (for drafting back
0 ­ 1 = chest/2 + 6cm bodice)
0 ­ 2 = Waist length Square down to mark 5
Square down to mark 3 0 ­ 6 = chest / 4
2­3=0­1 Square across to mark 7
1­3=0­2 6 ­ 7 is the chest line.
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 0 ­ 8 = 1/12th chest for marking back neck Join 8 ­ 16 & 9 ­ 17
width. Mark point 18 where the chest line 6 ­ 7
1­9=0­8 intersect the centre line 4 to 5
0 ­ 10 = 2 cm for back neck drop. Draw back Take the mid of 15 & 17 and mark 'a'.
neck curve 8 ­ 10 a ­ a1 = 1.5 cm
1 ­ 11 = 1/12th chest + 0.5 cm for front neck Complete the curve by joining 17,'a1' and 18.
drop. Draw front neck curve by joining 9 ­ 11 Take the mid of 13 & 16 and mark 'b'.
0 ­12 = ½ shoulder Complete the curve by joining 16,'b' and 18.
Square down up to chest line to mark 13 Measure 1.5 cm from point 5 on both side and
12­16 = 1.5 cm (½'') for marking shoulder mark 5a and 5 b.
slope. Join 18 to 5a &15 to 5b for side seam.
1 ­ 14 = 0 ­ 12 Shoulder to bust point = 24 cm
Square down till 15 Bust point to Bust point = 18 cm.
14 ­ 17 = 12 ­ 16

Fig3.10 Basic bodice

Dart
Dart width/ intake calculations deduction/3
Front dart(x) = Bust round ­ Waist round + side = 88 ­ 76 + 4 /3
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= 88 ­ 70/3=8/3==2.66 Find the mid­point on shoulder line mark z.
Back dart(y) = Half of the front dart(x) Draw a line from Z directing to Bust point,
= 2.66/2 away by 3.5 cm and mark dart
= 1.33 point'd'.
Shoulder dart (z) = Bust /36 = 88/36 ½ waist dart width
z ­ z1 =
= 2.4 towards left.
Front Dart ½ waist dart width
z ­ z2 =
Measure 3cm down for front waist dart from towards right.
bust point and label dart point as
'd'. From 'd' draw a line down till the waistline,
mark 'x'. Join z1 ­ d ­ z2.
x ­ x1 = ½ waist dart width towards left.Apply dart allowance for all the darts (Front
½ waist dart width towards
x ­ x2 = Waist, Front Shoulder and Back
right.
Waist).
Join x1 ­ d ­ x2.
(Dart allowance should be approx. half dart
Back Dart
Measure 1 cm right from bust point and label width extended in the direction of
dart point 'd'. From 'd' draw a line down till the
center line (outside the block) of the dart and
waistline, mark 'y'.
y ­ y1 = ½ waist dart width towards left.joined at the ends)
½ waist dart width towards Complete the pattern with required pattern
y ­ y2 =
right.
information
Join y1 ­ d ­ y2. Mark grain lines and require land marks.
Shoulder Dart

Fig3.11 Basic bodice Dart

3.4.1.2 Basic Skirt

Measurements Skirt Length : 29''
Required Waist Round : 28''
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Hip Round : 34'' 12 is the mid of 2& 4a.
Square down just before the top hip line.
12a = 12b
Drafting Procedure = 3/8''
Square across and square down from zero. Join the dart legs
0 ­ 1 = Skirt length Divide 0 ­ 10 line into three equal parts and
0 ­ 2 = 1/2 hip+1/2'' mark point 13 &14
Square across from 1 13 ­ 15 = ¼'' before the top hip line.
and square down from 2 to mark the point 3. 13a = 13b
0 ­ 4 = 1/4th hip+ 1/2'' = 3/8''
Square down to 5 Complete the dart by joining dart legs.
Mark CB &CF. Square down from 14 to 16 up to top hip line
0 ­ 6 = 1/4th hip as waist to hip length. 14a = 14b = 3/8''
Square across to 7 and mark line as hipline. Complete the dart by joining dart legs.
8 is the mid of 0 ­ 6
Square across from 8 to 9.Mark the line as top
hipline.
4 ­ 4a = 1/2''
Join 0 ­ 4a
0 ­ 10 = 1/4th waist+ 1/4th ease allowance +
1.5'' for two back
darts.
Draw the curve line from point 10 to the hip
line
Join 2 & 4a.
Fig3.12 Basic Skirt
2 ­ 11 = 1/4th waist+1/4th ease allowance + ¾''
for the front darts.
Draw the curve line from 11 to the hipline.

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 3.4.1.3 Sleeve
Measurements and 'b'
Sleeve length : 22.5'' a ­ a1 = 3/4" upward,
Chest/Bust : 34'' b ­ b1 = 5/8" upward
Sleeve Bottom : 7'' Take the mid of 4 ­ 7 and mark 'c'.
Drafting Procedure Find the mid of 4 ­ c &7 ­ c and mark point d &
Square across and square down from zero. e.
0 ­ 1 = Sleeve Length, d ­ d1 = 5/8'' upward,
0 ­ 2 = Chest/2 ­ 1½'', c ­ c1 = 1/8'' upward
now square down from 2 ­ 3 and complete the e ­ e1 = 1/4'' down ward
block with dotted line. join the curve line 6 ­ a1 ­ b1 ­ 4 ­ d1 ­ c1 ­ e1­ 7
4 is the mid of 0 ­ 2 and square down the line to
5.Now the block has been
separated for applying front and back sleeve
armhole curves.
0 ­ 6 = 1/8 chest
Square across to 7
6 ­ 7 is the bicep line
Join 4 ­ 6 & 4 ­ 7
5­8=5­9
= 1/2 bottom
8 ­ 8a = 9 ­ 9a
= 5/8''
Join the wrist curve 8a, 5, 9a
Join 6 ­ 8a & 7 to 9a
Divide 4­6 into three equal part and mark as 'a' Fig3.13 sleeve

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Self check-3.1
Test-I Matching
Instruction: select the correct answer for the give choice. You have given 30 Minute for each question.
Each question carries 3 Point.
A B
­­­­­­­­­1. Bloch pattern A. Pattern with necessary seam allowance
­­­­­­­­­2. Fabric characteristics B. provide correct proportions and fit
­­­­­­­­­3. Production pattern C. Durability
­­­­­­­­­4. Standard block D. Patterns use for mass production
­­­­­­­­­5. Industrial pattern E. used for making test fits
­­­­­­­­­6.Muslin F. Basic shapes transformed into new garment designs.

Test II: short Answer writing

Instruction: write short answer for the given question. You are provided 3 minute for each question
and each point has 5Points.
 Mention types of block patterns and their functions?
 Explain significance of fabric characteristics for garment manufacturing?
 What are the methods of pattern making?
 List at least 5 pattern making terminology.

Test III: Multiple choices

Instruction: select the correct answer from the given choices. You are provided 3 minute for each
question and each point has 5Points.
1. ­­­­­­­­­­­­ are the outline of each components of a garment.
A. pattern B. Dart C. ease D. draping
2. ­­­­­­­­­­ are fabric characteristics changes in color values when either the fabric or light is moved.
A. Utility B. Visual C. Transmition D. Durability

Note: Satisfactory rating – above 60% Unsatisfactory ­ below 60%

You can ask you teacher for the copy of the correct answers

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 Operation sheet 3.1
 Operation title: Drafting knee-length basic skirt pattern
 Purpose: To draft basic skirt pattern with a given measurement.
 Instruction: Using the figure below and given required measurement of knee­length skirt,
drafting basic skirt pattern. You have given 3hours for the task and you are expected to write
the answer on the given line.
 Measurements required:
 Waist: 72cm/2 =36cm or 28.34in/2 =14.17in
 Hip: 96cm/2 =48cm +1cm of ease= 49cm
 Or 37.8in/2= 18,9in +0.39in =19.29in
 Waist to hip: 20cm or 7.87in
 Total length of the skirt: 58cm or 22.8in

Figure 3.14: Figure given for operation sheet 3.1

 Tools and requirement:ruler,paper,hip curve rulers, pencil and eraser,
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 Steps in doing the task
Front of skirt
1. Prepare your paper
2. Plot the length
3. Plot the hip
4. Front dart
5. Plot waist

Back of skirt
1. Plot the back length
2. Back darts
3. Plot waist
6. Label your pattern pieces
 Quality Criteria: the given information and detailed sketches are set clearly at accurate place.
 Precautions: use the right tools for the right purpose.
Lap Test 3.2
Instructions: Given necessary templates, tools and materials you are required to perform the
following tasks within 4 hour.

 Task­1: Perform liner measurement using ruler

 Task­2: perform detail sketches every items of the design.
 Task­3: mark the required information’s and symbols from the design
 Task­4: Test everything through QC checklists.

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Operation sheet 3.2
 Operation title: Drafting knee-length basic skirt pattern
 Purpose: To draft women’s shirt pattern with a given measurement.
 Instruction: Using the figure below and given required measurement of women’s shirt,
drafting women’s shirt pattern. You have given 5hours for the task and you are expected to
write the answer on the given line.
 Measurements required:
Full length 28”, Shoulder width 17”, N. W. length 16 ½”, Mid Bust 36”, Waist 30”, Hip 38”, Neck 14,
short Sleeve length 10”, Long sleeve length 23”, Cult 2 ½ x 11”, Pocket Size 4 ¾“ x 5 ¼ .

Figure 3.15: Figure given for operation sheet 3.2

 Tools and requirement:ruler,paper,hip curve rulers, pencil and eraser,fixser 0.7
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  Women’s Shirt Drafting Procedure:
Front part
1 – 0 = Full length + 1 ¼“ for bottom hem + 8 – 0 = 1/5th Neck + ¼”.
Seam. 9 – 0 = 1/5th Neck shape neck part 9 to 8 as per
2 – 0 = Armhole depth is Bust ¼ (­) 1 ¼”. draft.
3 – 0 = N. W. length + ½”. 10 – 8 = 1/5th Neck.
4 – 2 = Bust 1/4 + 1 ½”. 11 – 7 = shoulder’s slope 1 ½”.
5 – 3 = Same as 4 to 2 (­) ¾”.
6 – 1 = Same as 4 to 2 + ¾”.
7 – 0 = ½ shoulder width + ½” for seam.
A to B ¾” upward at lower arm hole curve portion. C = is the centre of 3 to 5 measure. Dart length 8”.
Dart in take is ½” as per draft making this waist dart in front and back portion of the shirt will give the
proper fitness in the waist portion of the shirt. 9 to 9A are the button standing line is ¾”. 9B to 9A is
the parallel line to the drawn.
Back part:
1 – 0 = Back part starting line.
12 – 0 = 1/5th Neck + ¼”. 14 – 11 is down ward 2 ¼ ”.
12 – 13 = upward 2 ¼”. 14 to 15 is the back armhole curve.
Short Sleeves:

1 – 0 = Short sleeve length + ½”.

2 – 0 = 1/8th Bust ( – ) ½”. 4 – 1 = 3 to 2 measure ( – ) 1”.
3 – 2 = 1/4th Bust + ½”. 3 – 6 – 0 = Back Sleeve Shape.
3 – 5 – 0 is the front sleeve shape.

Collar (Open collar type):

1 – 0 = 3 ¼” as standard. 4 ­2 = ¾ for shape.
1 ­2 = ½ Neck girth + ¼”. 3 ­5 = ½ upward.
3 – 2 = Same as 1 to 0 measure. 6 – 3 is ½” outer point as per the draft

 Quality Criteria: the given information and detailed sketches are set clearly at accurate place.
 Precautions: use the right tools for the right purpose.

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Lap Test 3.2
Instructions: Given necessary templates, tools and materials you are required to perform the
following tasks within 5 hour.

 Task­1: Identify pattern parts

 Task­2: perform patterns of each garment parts.
 Task­3: mark the pattern information’s and symbols from each parts
 Task­4: Test the finishing pattern through QC checklists.

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Unit Four: Patternmaking Principles

This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics:
 Applying basic patternmaking and grading principles to develop pattern
 Grading rule,requirment and methods
 Checking a pattern piece accurately
 Labeling All pattern pieces
This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
 Develop Pattern in applying basic patternmaking and grading principles in accordance
with specifications
 Use methods and formulas
 Check Pattern pieces for accuracy, including seam allowances, ease allowances, seam
match, hems, specific material requirements and functional openings.
 Label all pattern pieces, including grain lines, notches, pattern information and cutting
instructions.

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4.1 Basic patternmaking and grading principles

4.1.1 Patternmaking principles

For making flat pattern and for making alterations according to different design it is very important to
know the pattern making principles. Any pattern can be created and modified if we know the basic
three principles, which are:
1. Principle of dart Manipulation: there are many rules for creating, combining and dividing the
darts and transferring dart at different places on a pattern piece. Dart can be shifted to a new place by
slash and spread method and by pivot method.
2. Principle of added Fullness: there are rules for adding fullness in a garment. Fullness can be
provided in a garment with the help of gathers, pleats, tucks etc. (adding more fabric in the design)
3. Principle of contouring: there are rules for making contoured patterns to make it fit the curves of
the human figure. (Fitting to the hollows of a model's figure)

4.1.1.1 Dart Manipulation

 Changing the location of a dart within the pattern frame.
 The dart is responsible for fit
 The dart will ALWAYS be part of the design in one form or another

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 To Manipulate Darts: Two methods (same result) are used. such as­
1. Pivot  Allows dart to be moved without
2. Slash & spread changing the pattern’s size or fit.
1. Pivot point:  Dart point
 Designated point on the pattern (e.g. bust  Dart leg
point).  Dart intake
 Pattern is slashed to, or pivoted from, this
point.

 Dart Equivalent:
 A dart can be converted into:
 Pleats
 Tuck­darts
 Gathers
 functions as a dart
 fit is not adversely affected

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 To Demonstration of principale Dart Manipulation: Bodices
Front Bodices:
1. Single­dart manipulation – Mid­Shoulder and Waist Dart
 (slash and spread) 4. Double­dart manipulation
 Mid­Shoulder Dart – (pivot)
2. Single­dart manipulation – Shoulder­Tip and Waist Dart .
 (pivot) Back Bodices:
 Side Dart 5. Shoulder Dart Multi­dispersion.

3. Double­dart manipulation 6. Back Neck Dart.

– (slash and spread) 7. Dart Excess Transferred to Armhole.

Flexible Dart Manipulation—skirts

Darts may be
 Pivoted
 Combined
 Converted into dart equivalents
 Pleats
 Tuck darts
 Gathers

Transferring dart excess to hemline

– A­line skirt
• One dart converted to
flare
– Flared skirt
• Two darts converted to
flare
 Demonstration of Dart Manipulation: Skirts
1. Curved Darts 3. A­line Flared (slash and spread)
2. One Dart

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4. Flared (pivot)

4.1.1.2 Added Fullness principle

 Applies when design fullness is greater than the dart excess can provide.
 Added fullness is not directed to the pivotal point (bust).
 Adding to the pattern's outline also indicates that added material is needed for the design.

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4.1.1.3 Contouring Principle
 Fitting to the contour above, below, and between the bust, leaving the dart excess to be absorbed
into style lines or gathers.
 Gapping ease caused by cutout neck lines and armholes is transferred to be absorbed.

4.1.2 Grading principles

4.1.2.1 Pattern Grading Definition:
Pattern grading is a technique used to increase or decrease the size of a garment pattern according to
the measurements in a given size chart. Pattern grading is the drafting process of enlarging or
diminishing a style pattern into patterns for other sizes. The function of grading is to see that this is
accomplished with proper fit for the other size without changing the style sense of the original model.

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4.1.1.2 Methods of grading
There are three basic methods of grading:
1. Cut-and-spread method: The easiest method, which is the basis of the other two methods, is to cut
the pattern and spread the pieces by a specific amount to grade up, or overlap them to grade down. No
special training or tools are required­just scissors, a pencil, tape, and a ruler that breaks 1 in. down to
1/64

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2. Pattern shifting: Pattern shifting is the process of increasing the overall dimensions of a pattern by
moving it to a measured distance up and down and left and right, (using a specially designed ruler) and
redrawing the outline, to produce the same results as the cut­and­spread method.

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Advantages:
▪ Cost effective process
Disadvantages:
▪ Time consuming process
▪ Expected accuracy may not be obtained.
3. Computer Grading, is the fastest method, but tends to be an investment intensive and only larger
manufacturers can afford. However, sophisticated home computer software is becoming affordable.

Advantages: Disadvantages:
▪ Quick process i.e. less time consumption; ▪ High initial cost is involved
▪ High accuracy may be obtained ▪ Skilled operator is require

4.1.2 Grading principles

1. Pattern and grade development
The dynamics of fashion necessitates the continual development of new styles, with each of these
styles requiring a different pattern.
2. The Grading system
This principle provides the necessary accuracy and versatility required for grading patterns according
to the considerable variations in customers’ requirements.
3. Size ranges
This term refers to the differences in the major girth measurements between the smallest and largest
size in the size chart.

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4. Size intervals
A sizing system is nothing more than the artificial division of the population into sizes groups
according to a pre­determined size interval i.e., the major girth differences between each size.
5. Size charts
There are two types of size charts in general use:
Type 1: Body measurements
This type of chart provides the body measurements for each size and the pattern maker uses these
measurements as a basis for constructing a pattern with the requisite amounts of ease.
Type 2: Garment measurements
This chart details the finished measurements specification for each size and is used for pattern grading
and quality control purposes.

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6. Measurements
The measurements given for a size represent the average measurements of a woman having a
particular bust or hip girth, and this combination is denoted by size symbol.
7. Nomenclature
A size is a combination of measurements and each combination is designated by a symbol which is a
common ‘code’ between the manufacturer and the consumer.

Checking pattern pieces

a) Measure Each Seam

To check that your patterns fit together correctly, you need to check that each seam is the
same length as the seam it will be sewn to. For example, in the case of the bodice block, we
need to check that the side seams and shoulder seams are the same length. To do this, you can
simply take a ruler or tape measure and measure each seam.
b) Match Pattern Pieces and Check Seam Length

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 Match up the seams as if you were sewing them and check that they are the same length.
C) Check That Patterns Are Square
When a pattern is symmetrical always check both ends of the centre line (or "PLACE ON FOLD"
line) meet the other seam at a right angle.

In the example shown, the neckline and hemline were not square to the centre front and when the
pattern was cut on the fold, a peak was created in the neckline and a point in the hemline.

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Self check 4.1
Test II: short Answer writing
Instruction: write short answer for the given question. You are provided 3 minute for each question
and each point has 5Points.
1. Mention the major methods of patter grading?
2. Explain pattern making principles and their function?
3. What are the principles of pattern grading?
4. How to check pattern pieces?.

Test III: Multiple choices

Instruction: select the correct answer from the given choices. You are provided 3 minute for each
question and each point has 5Points.
1. ­­­­­­­­­­­­ is a technique used to increase or decrease the size of a garment pattern according to
the measurements in a given size chart..
A. pattern B. patternmaking C. pattern grading D. draping
2. ­­­­­­­­­­ is pattern making principles that apply by adding more fabric in the design.
A. Dart manipulation B. add fullness C. contour D. patternmaking

3. One is not advantage of computer aided pattern grading?

A. Quick process i.e. less time consumption; B, High accuracy may be obtained
C. High initial cost is involved D. All except A
4. ­­­­­­ is the process of increasing the overall dimensions of a pattern by moving it to a measured
distance up and down and left and right.
A. pattern shifting B. computer grading C. cut and spread method D. contouring

Note: Satisfactory rating – above 60% Unsatisfactory ­ below 60%

You can ask you teacher for the copy of the correct answers

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Operation sheet 4.1
Operation title: Manipulating center front neck dart
Purpose: To Manipulate center front neck dart.
 Instruction: Using the figure below and given required pattern tools, manipulate center front
neck dart. You have given ½ hours for the task and you are expected to write the answer on the
given line.

Figure 4.3: Figure given for operation sheet 4.1

 Tools and requirement:ruler,paper,hip curve rulers, pencil and eraser,
 Steps in doing the task
1. Draw slashes line from C.F. neck dart to bust point.
2. Close dart legs A and B. Tape.
3. Retrace and complete dart legs
 Quality Criteria: the given information and detailed sketches are set clearly at accurate place.
 Precautions: use the right tools for the right purpose.

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Lap Test 4.1
Instructions: Given necessary templates, tools and materials you are required to perform
the following tasks within 4 hour.

 Task­1: draw slash lines using ruler

 Task­2: close dart legs using tape.
 Task­3: retrace and finish new dart legs

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Unit Five: Pattern Tests

This unit is developed to provide you the necessary information regarding the following content
coverage and topics:
 Check fitting with toile (chip piece of fabric )
 Alternating a pattern piece to improve fitting
 Documenting alternated pattern piece
 Developing Facing, closure
This unit will also assist you to attain the learning outcomes stated in the cover page.
Specifically, upon completion of this learning guide, you will be able to:
 Make a toile (chip piece of fabric) to test the fit and accuracy of pattern.
 Altered pattern to reflect test fitting outcomes, quality standards and workplace practices.
 Document alterations to patterns
 Develop facing, closure options

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5.1Pattern alteration
Fitting is an important part that makes a garment perfect. The art of garment fitting requires skill and
patience. When standard fit is done, garments will look better and feel more comfortable. Making
apparel which really fits is one of garment making’s greatest challenges and crucial successes. Perfect
measurements are the key of good fit.
Good fit are influenced by many things such as:
 The current fashion look,  The amount of ease preferred and
 The hang and stretch of the fabric,  Figure size and type.
Pattern Alteration:
Pattern alteration means customize patterns to fit according to body shape. For example, shortening
arms or lengthening a top. Patterns are prepared according to standard measurement chart which are
based on average sizes. After measuring the human body and adding needed ease, compare this
measurement to the pattern’s measurement.

Fig5.1 pattern adjustment or alteration

Pattern adjustment or alteration is often necessary to achieve good fit in a garment. Once the fabric is
cut, however, fitting adjustments are limited to existing darts and seam allowances. Before cutting the
garment, check the pattern fit and alterations according to the correct body measurement that will
eliminate many problems form fabric. Therefore, fitting problems should be solved before the garment
is cut by making needed changes in the pattern.

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5.1.1 Ways of pattern alteration
A pattern can be altered and adjusted three ways:
1. By folding out excess fullness to make an area smaller.
2. By slashing and spreading to increase dimensions, or slashing and overlapping to decrease
dimensions.
3. By redrawing darts or seemliness.
5.1.2 Importance of Pattern Alterations:
1. To get a perfect fit on your figure, garment is cut after the pattern is altered.
2. If the pattern is altered before the fabric is cut, there will be no adjusting in the final fitting.
3. There is no danger of wasting expensive fabric and spoiling the garment.
4. Each adjustment necessary in the flat pattern for saving time and avoid ripping later.
5. Sometimes alterations are essential to get perfect pattern.
5.1.3 Patterns Alteration Standards:
1. Original grain­lines are saved.
2. Patterns are kept in balance and proportion.
3. Change is created only where needed and is not obvious.
4. Designer’s lines are protected.
5.1.4 Basic Rules or Techniques of Pattern Alteration:
Traditionally, alteration of garment patterns is an essential step in producing attractive and accurately
fitting clothing from patterns which already exist. There have been numerous publications by tailoring
experts on how to alter garment patterns for different figure forms. Alterations can be done by using
measurements, taken by a tape measure and incorporating them onto a paper pattern using the slash,
seam or pivot methods.
Basic pattern alteration techniques are given below:
1. All similar pieces must be altered to correspond with the alterations on the major piece.
2. Additions or extensions must be made by taping an extension strip to the edge involved.
3. Altered patterns must have the same character as the original pattern piece.
4. Correct movement on altered pattern to give the altered line the same character as the original
line.
5. The altered pattern must be properly flat, as like the original pattern piece.
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There are also some methods for pattern alteration:
 Pattern alteration for flattering the figure
 Pattern alteration for non­standard figures
 Pattern alteration with experimental methods
 Pattern alteration using computer­aided design (CAD) programs
5.1.5 Principles of Pattern Alteration:
1. A far as possible make changes within the pattern by slashing and spreading or slashing and
lapping.
2. To preserve the original grain line, make all slashes and folds parallel or perpendicular to the grain
line (to center front line, center back line etc.).
3. Where there are darts, make changes between the tip of the dart and the outside edge.
4. If an alteration in length is made along one edge of the pattern, take care to make an identical
alteration in the adjoining edge.
5. When tucks or darts are used for making a pattern smaller, remember that the width of these
should be just half the amount to be removed.
6. When decreasing or increasing the width of pattern pieces, if only half the pattern (half back or
half front) is used, subtract or add only one fourth of the total adjustment to be made.
7. When the pattern alteration involves slashing and spreading, it is necessary to keep a sheet of
paper beneath and to pin or stick to it the spread­out parts so that they will thereafter remain in
position.
Use the following checklist that helps you, if further alterations or minor fitting is needed for a good
fit.
1. Adequate wearing ease is available for sitting, mov­ing and bending.
2. Armhole seams curve smoothly over the end of shoul­der.
3. Crosswise grain lines are parallel to floor.
4. Crotch depth is right, neither too low and baggy nor too tight and binding.
5. Darts point to the fullest part of the curve.
6. Hemline is even.
7. Hipline fits smoothly.

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8. Lengthwise grain lines, side seams, center front and center back seams hang straight or at right
angles to the floor.
9. Pant legs hang smoothly and do not restrict any part of the legs.
10. Pants hang smoothly from the waist. The waistband fits the body comfortably and stays in place
when bending and sitting.
11. Pants have no pulls or excess fabric across the front or back crotch level.
12. Shoulder seam length comes to end of shoulders.
13. Sleeves are comfortable with no wrinkles.
14. The length of the garment is becoming.
5.2 Developing Facing, closure
5.2.1 Facing
In sewing and tailoring, facing is a small piece of fabric, separate or a part of the fabric itself, used to
finish the fabric edges. Facing makes a garment look professionally finished with the seams well
hidden inside the folds of the facing. Facing is mostly used to finish the edges in necklines, armholes,
hems and openings. They are also used widely in all other sewing like quilts and home decor items
like curtain hems. A facing is a piece of fabric used to finish raw edges of a garment at open areas,
such as the neckline, armholes, and front and back plackets or openings. A facing may be a separate
pattern piece to be added to the garment or an extension of the pattern piece itself. The facing is cut on
the same grain as the garment section it will “face” so it will wear and hang in the same manner.
There are basically three types of facing. 1. Shaped facing 2. Extended facing 3. Bias facing
Shaped facings are cut to match the outside shape of the piece to provide a neat finish, and are often
cut from the same pattern pieces. Shaped facings are typically made of the same fabric as the garment,
but may also be made of lighter­weight fabric or in a contrasting color as a design element. Extended
facings are extensions of the garment fabric, folded back and usually stabilized. Bias facings are strips
of lightweight fabric cut on the true bias (US) or cross­grain (UK), and shaped rather than cut to match
the edge to which they are applied.

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5.2.2 Closure
Closures are functional trims used to open or close a garment. Usually closures are not visible when
the garment is worn. Fasteners are used to hold garment sections closed (shirt opening), in place
(Waistband of shirt or trouser) or together (wrap of wrap around top or skirt). Fasteners usually serve
decorative as well as functional purposes. Closures and Fasteners can be categorized as:
 Buttons
 Zips
 Hooks n eyes/bars
 Buckles and Rings
 Stoppers
 Snaps, Shanks and Grommets(Eyelets)

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Self check 5.1
Test II: short Answer writing
Instruction: write short answer for the given question. You are provided 3 minute for each
question and each point has 5Points.
1. Mention the principles of pattern alteration?
2. Explain garment facing and closure?
3. What are the ways and important of pattern alteration?
4. Describe Basic pattern alteration techniques.
5. Mention and discuss types of garment facing.
6. What are the influence of good fit pattern pieces?

Note: Satisfactory rating – above 60% Unsatisfactory ­ below 60%

You can ask you teacher for the copy of the correct answers

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References books:

1. Armstrong, H.J Pattern Making for Fashion designers Prentice Hall, New Jercy
2. Seaman, A.A & Julian, B.T, Fashion Drawing The BasicPrinciples, Batsford Ltd. London.
3. Apparel Manufacturing Technology By T. Karthik, P. Ganesan and D. Gopalakrishnan
4. Clothing: Fashion, Fabrics and Construction, Fifth Edition by Jeanette Weber
5. Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology by Sadhan C. Ray
6. Garment Manufacturing Technology Edited by Rajkishore Nayak and Rajiv Padhye
7. Materials and Technology for Sportswear and Performance Apparel Edited by Steven
George Hayes, Praburaj Venkatraman
8. Clothing Appearance and Fit: Science and Technology by J. Fan, W. Yu and L. Hunter
9. How to Use, Adapt, and Design Sewing Patterns by Lee Hollahan
10. Dressmaking: The Complete Step by Step Guide to Making Your Own Clothes by Alison
Smith

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 Participants of this Module (training material) preparation
N Name Qualific Field of Organizati Mobile E-mail
o ation Study on/ number
(Level) Institution
1 Amlaku Tewellign A(MSC) Garment BPTC 0918026571 [email protected]
Technology
2 Melkie Erkihun A(MSC) Garment BMC 0925755581 [email protected]
Technology m
3 Dejene Bifa A Garmet AKPTC 0913647972 [email protected]
Technolgy m
4 Mohammed A Garmet CPTC 0913833994 Yimermohamed2010
Yimer Technolgy @gmail.com

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