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DIY CNC Router 2

DIY-CNC-Router-2

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
49 views

DIY CNC Router 2

DIY-CNC-Router-2

Uploaded by

dragoblaztr
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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instructables

DIY CNC Router

by bseltze1

I designed and manufactured a 3-axis CNC router utilizing Fusion 360 for the CAD and CAM and machined components
using my school's HAAS TM-2P CNC mill. Yes, I used a CNC to make a CNC!
The CNC Router has a cutting volume of 19" x 21" x 6" in the x, y, z axis respectively. This machine is designed to cut
various materials such as aluminum, brass, mild steel, woods and plastics.
Since I plan on keeping this in my apartment, I decided to utilize a moving gantry design to maximize tool travel while
minimizing the space the machine takes up. I've designed the electronic components to consume less than 2 kW of
power in order to use a standard 120V 20A circuit. This machine is also designed to be easily disassembled into
subassemblies that can t through a standard size doorway.
I'm currently a junior at Binghamton University studying Mechanical Engineering. I'm very passionate about DIY projects
and mechanical design. This project has allowed me the precision and automation to explore more DIY projects.
Supplies:

The motors selected are Nema 23 stepper motors supplemented with DM556T motor drivers. I utilized an Arduino for the
controller and GRBL rmware to convert G-Code into PWM signals. The electronics enclosure is a PC tower purchased on
Facebook Marketplace.
The linear rails are HGR20 and HGH20 linear rails and guide blocks. The axis is driven by SFU1605 ballscrews powered by
the NEMA 23 stepper motors. This actuator assembly gives the machine 0.025mm (0.001") of linear travel per full step of
the stepper motor.
The frame of the machine was machined out of 3/8" thick 6" x 4" rectangular tubing grounded to a 3" x 3" x 0.25" steel
plate. The other parts are made out of aluminum 2024 and 6061-T6 scrap purchased from various metal suppliers.

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Step 1: Design and Analysis

The rst step of every project is to load into Fusion 360 and start CAD'ing. It was important to me to design everything in
a full assembly including o -the-shelf components to be able to have a 100% completed design in CAD before I started
machining.
FEA was conducted on the gantry assembly to ensure my design has less than 0.001" of de ection at the tool under peak
loading conditions. Cutting force analysis was conducted to determine a peak cutting force of 200N at the utes of the
cutting tool. Given these conditions, a de ection of 0.0008" was seen in the FEA results passing my requirement. This
ensured I was able to cut aluminum alloys at speeds that could keep up with other industrial grade CNCs.

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https://www.instructables.comhttps://a360.co/3GTCjo4

Step 2: CAM/manufacturing

I've designed all components to be machined in-house at my school's Fabrication Lab. Most components were water jet
out of plate stock and then machined to nal size. These parts were CNC milled on my school's Haas TM-2P. I've
generated all the G-Code for these operations using Fusion 360 CAM and learned how to operate my school's Haas TM-
2P for this project.

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https://www.instructables.comhttps://a360.co/3tjF8vv

https://www.instructables.comhttps://a360.co/485Z8AB

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https://www.instructables.comhttps://a360.co/487HVXw

https://www.instructables.comhttps://a360.co/3vjH1bS

DIY CNC Router: Page 10


Step 3: Assembly

When building CNC machines, the assembly process is very important. The linear rails need to be parallel and square to
one another. In addition, the spindle needs to be trammed to ensure the tool is perpendicular to the machine base.
A surface plate and various dial indicator setups were utilized to ensure parallelism and perpendicularity were within the
tolerance I speci ed in the drawings.
On the electrical side, lots of soldering and crimping was done to ensure robust wiring. I utilized multi-conductor cable
with shielded grounds and snaked everything through drag-chains to keep things organized.

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Step 4: Results

Since building the machine, I've utilized its rigidity to mill many di erent parts out of aluminum, wood, and brass. I've
upgraded 3D printed parts on the machine by milling billet aluminum with the machine to replace these components.
This machine has been able to mill features within 0.001" of the modeled dimensions.
I plan on using this machine to give me the opportunity to fabricate parts more precisely for future projects. In addition, I
plan on creating a small woodworking/metalworking business and this machine will allow me to automate this process
with accurate and consistent results.

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