2.

1 Interlining
Interlining is a layer of separate kind of fabric which is used or inserted between a
garment's lining and shell fabric to provide stability and an appropriate appearance.
Mainly Interlining is used in the garment parts like Collar, waistband, facing, coat etc.
[1]

Interlining plays a vital role for creating shape into the detail areas of clothes, such as
the fronts of coats, collars. Also additionally, they strengthen and stabilise regions like
plackets, waistbands, facings, patch pockets, and necklines that are prone to additional
wearing stress. [2]

2.2 Types of Interlining

Generally, interlinings are two types, such as-

1. Sewn Interlining: The interlinings which are joined by sewing with the original
fabric of the garments are called sewn interlining. Sewn interlining is made and
applying into it the starch like material so its strength is enhanced. It is used in
Flame Retardant garments.
2. Fusible Interlining: The interlinings which are attached by pressure and heat
with the original fabric of the garments are called fusible interlining. The fusible
interlining is made by using coating of thermoplastic resin on the fabrics. When
due to heat and pressure melt the thermoplastic resin then it acts as glue.
Interlining fabrics are manufactured by weaving, knitting or felting [1].
Based on the resin the classification of fusible interlinings are given below:
 Poly Vinyl acetate (PVA) Coated Interlining: Made by applying light
coating of poly vinyl acetate on the main fabric of interlining. Fused in
low temperature and pressure. It is not dry cleanable and has limited
wash ability, lower water resistance.
 Polyethylene Coated Interlining: In this type of interlining applying
polyethylene on the base fabric. These are two types Low density
polyethylene and High density polyethylene. In low density
polyethylene dry cleaning and wash cleaning performance are poor but
high density polyethylene there has very good performance in dry and
wash cleaning.
  Polyester Coated Interlining: Polyester coating is used as resin in this
type of interlining. It is used in all types of garments. Also can be
consider as standard interlining. It is washable and dry cleaned.
 Polyamide Coated Interlining: By using polyamide coating on the
base fabric of interlining. Those garments which are dry cleaned are
using. High temperature fusing is done.
 Poly Vinyl Chloride (PVA) Coated Interlining: This type of
interlining using PVA coating on the base fabric various amounts. Not
damageable in water washing and dry cleaning. [3]

2.3 Methods of Resin Coating

Fusible interlinings are constructed using an adhesive or resin coating to secure the
interlining to the outer fabric. Resin or adhesive substance is applied on the base fabric
[4]. In many ways resin coating can be done, given below the most widely used method
of resin coating

 Scatter Coating: In this method resins are amplified in very small particles
scattered on the base fabric of the interlining. Then the resins melted with heat
and also joined the melted resin completely with the fabric by pressure. The
interlining's base fabric and resin coating are securely fused together when the
interlining's resin temperature reduced. Properties of interlining is not all
through uniform
 Dry dot coating: On the main fabric of interlining the fine powder of resin
which in dot shape is applied by the help of an engraved roller. Then the base
fabric is passed through the oven. Due to temperature of the oven and by the
pressure of the roller resin melts. The melted resin are joined properly with the
fabric. Temperature and pressures varies for different types resins.
 Film Coating: Due to heat melting the resin and it’s coating is applied as light
films on the main fabric by machine. In this method coating of polyethylene
resin is mostly used.
 Paste coating: In this method, Water and chemicals are used to converted the
fine resin powder into a paste. Then that paste is applied on the base fabric of
the interlining in the shape of small dots in specific pattern. By applying heat
 water and chemicals are driven away from the dots of paste. The dots of the
resins are joined with the fabric [1]

2.4 Fusing
Fusing is the process of joining or bonding two layers of fabric together by applying
heat and pressure over a period of time with the addition of an adhesive or fusible
interlining. Due to temperature rise, the interface of resin is active because of the
electric heating elements of the press. Then changes the stage of the resin from a dry
solid to a viscous fluid. When cooled it then the resin re-solidifies and create a bond
between the two components. Fusing is the alternative method of sewing or joining
fabric. Fusing helps to improve the overall durability and appearance of the garment
[5].

2.4.1 Parameters of Fusing

Fusing is controlled by four processing parameters: temperature, time, pressure, and
cooling.

 Temperature: During the fusing process, heating plate temperature and

intermediate temperature between the fabrics to be joined together are very
essential. In intermediate temperature which is the actual temperature, the
adhesive begins to melt and enters into the structure of heat ‐joined fabrics. The
temperature depends on the time of heating, fabric structure and the types of
thermoplastics.
 Pressure: Pressure is an important factor during fusing. In the joining process,
the pressure quickens the thermoplastic adhesive's transition into the textile
structure and ensures that the joint components are uniform. The pressure
dependents on the type of the used fabrics and type of the adhesive.
 Time: Time visualize how long the interlining material is subjected to heat and
pressure during fusing. It depends on the type of adhesive, type and thickness of
the fabric, its thermal conductivity, and the mutual action of pressure and
temperature.
  Cooling: Cooling is a very important process at the end of the fusing process. In
order to handle the fused assemblies immediately after fusing, cooling is used
[6]

2.5 Fusing Machine

Fusing machine is used for fusing the fusible interlining, applique and other materials
to fabric surfaces seamlessly. In garment industry it is widely used for these purposes.
The process of pressure, temperature and time a material is fused to a base fabric [7]

Fusing machines are four types:

 Hand iron
 Flat bed fusing press
 Continuous fusing press
 High frequency fusing [1]

2.5.1 Continuous Fusing Machine:

A continuous fusing press is a type of machine used in fusing purpose. It is used to
create bond fabrics together using heat and pressure to create a smooth and durable
finish. It is the most operable fusing machine used in the garment industries. Production
is high and quality of fusing is better. Placing the garments parts and the interlining one
upon another properly on the endless or loop shaped feed sheet, and feed in flat
condition. In the fusing chamber feed sheet carry this part and interlinings. Then the
required heat and pressure are applied in the fusing chamber. Required temperature
maintain by fusing chamber. Either direct heating or indirect heating method is used to
transfer heat via the interlining. After applying heat, the required pressure is applied on
the interlining with the help of a pair of roller which is covered by hard rubber.
Pressure is created in rollers and there is a setting of increasing and decreasing the
amount of heat is required. Time is controlled by maintaining the speed of the feed
sheet. After completing the fusing, The fused components are removed from the
delivery sheet.
This machine is more preferable for fusing. Fabric shrinkage is not possible during heat
generation. Critical point of the fusing process is using the appropriate pressure and
keeping the temperature constant. Temperature, pressure can vary for working
purposes.

Working Principle of Continuous Fusing Machine:

 At first, interlining is given with the fabric and then passed to the fusing
chamber.
 The required heat and pressure are applied in fusing chamber.
 For heating the interlining direct heating method or indirect heating method are
applied.
 After heating two pressure rollers are applying the necessary pressure.
 By controlling the speed of the feed sheet, the fusing time is controlled.
 Then the fused parts are received from the delivery sheet and in flat
condition [8]
 Fig: Continuous fusing machine

2.6 Bond Strength of Fusing

Fusible interlinings are coated with resin or adhesive that work as a bonding resin to
hold the interlining to the outer fabric. Fusion bonding create very strong bonds
because it involves melting the materials together, when it is cooled build solid strong
bond [9] One of the most important parameter is bond strength of fused system, which
can have a significant impact on the garments quality. The adhesion becomes better,
when the temperature and time increase and the separation of the fusible interlining and
the fabric becomes difficult. If the bonding strength is high therefore, more energy is
required for breaking of bonds. The bonding quality of fabric and fusible interlining has
more importance and depends on the right balance between temperature, time, and
pressure [10]

Bond strength is the force required to detached or separate the fused layers of fabric
and interlining. The maximum force is required to separate the fabric and interlining.
To improve the initial bond strength, higher pressure should maintain during the fusing
process. The strength of the bond is affected by resin dot size, interlining thickness and
fusing process parameters of time, temperature and pressure. Low bond strength and
poor handle or appearance caused by an inadequate amount of resin in between shell
fabric and interlining base fabric. For improve bond strength increasing temperature
and time during fusing [3]

The purpose of bond test to determine an adhesive or resin’s bond strength. Many
different types of bond testing available. Tensile, shear and peel bond strength testing
are most commonly used. The resin will be applied to the surface of a interlining as a
type of coating and the resin’s bond strength is determined to be its ability to stay in
contact with the fabric while under tension [11]

2.8 Stiffness
Stiffness refers to the resistance of a fabric or material to bending or deformation. It is
the measure of how easily a fabric can hold its shape and appearance [12]

One of the most critical factors in wearing comfort of multi layered garment
components is fabric stiffness. Flexural rigidity is the measurement of the fabric's
resistance to bending or stiffness. Stiffness of the fused fabric composites is higher than
the combined stiffness of the fabric and interlining due to the presence of the resin.
Bending length increases due to presence of resin. Fabrics with high stiffness may feel
more rigid and less flexible, also low stiffness are more pliable and easily bendable [3]
Bending length is the length of fabric that will bend to a certain extent under its own
weight. The Stiffness increases with bending length and lowering the drape. The length
at which a fabric bends under its own weight is known as the bending length, and it
 represents the relationship between fabric stiffness and weights. It represents the
stiffness of a fabric [13].

Stiffness influences by some factors, given below:

 Fibre type: Stiffness can be vary for different types of fibres. In natural fibre
cotton and silk are less stiff compared to synthetic fibre like nylon and
polyester.
 Yarn Structure: Yarn structure also an important factor to affect stiffness.
High twist in yarn result in a stiffer fabric.
 Fabric Construction: The stiffness of the cloth is also largely determined by
the way it is made. Tight weave or intricately patterned fabrics are typically
stiffer than loosely constructed fabrics.
 Fabric Weight: Heavier weight fabrics has more stiffness compared to lighter
weight of fabrics.
 Fabric Thickness: Thicker fabrics shows more stiffness compare to thinner
fabrics. Factors including yarn size, density, and fabric construction affect a
fabric's thickness.
 Fabric Finish: The fabric's stiffness can be affected by the type of finishing
treatments used on it [14].

2.9 Twill Weave fabric

The order of interlacing, which causes diagonal lines of warp and weft floats to be
formed in the cloth surface is called twill fabric. It is characterized by its diagonal
pattern. This pattern is created by weaving warp and weft threads in a specific way,
which gives the fabric a distinctive and durable texture. When the fabric is turned over
twill lines are formed on both sides of the fabric, and the direction of the lines may be
either to the right or to the left, but the direction on one side is opposite to that on the
other side [15].

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