© Lonely Planet Publications

17

Contents
On the Road 4 Puerto Morelos
Jardín Botánico
99
102
Tres Ríos 102
Punta Bete 102
Hidden Treasures of the Playa del Carmen 102
Yucatán Peninsula 5 Isla Cozumel 108
Xcaret 118
Destination Yucatán 19 Rancho Punta Venado
Paamul
119
119
Xpu-Há 119
Getting Started 20 Akumal
Xel-Há
119
120
Bahías de Punta Solimán 121
Itineraries 25 Tankah
Tulum
121
122
Gran Cenote 129
History 30 Cobá 129
Punta Laguna 132
SOUTHERN
The Culture 39 QUINTANA ROO
Tulum to Punta Allen
132
133
Felipe Carrillo Puerto 134
Food & Drink 50 Mahahual &
the Costa Maya 136
Xcalak 137
Environment 58 Laguna Bacalar
Around Bacalar
139
140
Chetumal 140
Yucatán Outdoors 64 Corredor Arqueológico 145
Zona Libre 147
South to Belize &
Quintana Roo 71 Guatemala 147
CANCÚN 72
History
Orientation
72
72
Yucatán State 148
MÉRIDA 149
Information 74
History 149
Dangers & Annoyances 76
Orientation 149
Sights & Activities 76
Information 149
Cancún for Children 78
Dangers & Annoyances 153
Tours 78
Sleeping 79 Sights 153
Eating 81 Courses 157
Entertainment 84 Tours 157
Shopping 85 Festivals & Events 158
Getting There & Away 86 Sleeping 158
Getting Around 88 Eating 160
NORTH OF CANCÚN 88 Drinking 162
Isla Mujeres 88 Entertainment 163
Parque Nacional Shopping 164
Isla Contoy 96 Getting There & Away 164
Isla Holbox 96 Getting Around 166
RIVIERA MAYA 99 SOUTH OF MÉRIDA 166
© Lonely Planet Publications
18 C O N T E N T S

Hacienda Yaxcopoil 166 Around Hopelchén 217

Hacienda Ochil 167 Chenes Sites 217 Transportation 266
Grutas de Calcehtok 167 SOUTHWESTERN COAST 218
Oxkintok
Uxmal
167
167
Champotón
Champotón to Sabancuy
218
219 Health 276
Santa Elena 171 Laguna de Términos 219
Kabah
Ruta Puuc
171
172
Ciudad del Carmen
Atasta Peninsula
220
221 Language 282
Grutas de Loltún 174 ESCÁRCEGA TO XPUJIL 221
Ruinas de Mayapán
Cenotes de Cuzamá
174
175
Balamkú
Calakmul
221
222 Glossary 290
Ticul 176 Chicanná 223
Ticul to Tihosuco
WEST & NORTH
178 Becán
Xpujil
224
224 The Authors 293
OF MÉRIDA 179 Around Xpujil 226
Celestún 179
Ruined Haciendas Route 182 Behind the Scenes 295
Dzibilchaltún 182 Tabasco & Chiapas 227
Progreso 183
East of Progreso 184
TABASCO
Villahermosa
228
228 Index 301
EASTERN Around Villahermosa 230
YUCATÁN STATE 185
Izamal 185
CHIAPAS
San Cristóbal de Las Casas
231
231 GreenDex 309
Chichén Itzá 186
Around San Cristóbal 238
Valladolid 193
Ek’ Balam 196
Palenque
Bonampak & Yaxchilán
238
243 World Time Zones 310
Tizimín 197
Río Lagartos 198
East of Río Lagartos 199 Directory 247 Map Legend 312
San Felipe 200

Campeche State
CAMPECHE
202
203
Regional Map Contents
History 203
Orientation 203
Information 203 Yucatán State
(pp150-1)
Sights & Activities 204
Courses 208
Tours 208
Festivals & Events 208 Quintana Roo
(p73)
Sleeping 208
Eating 210 Campeche State
(p204)
Drinking 211
Entertainment 211
Shopping 212
Getting There & Away 212
Getting Around 213
CAMPECHE TO MÉRIDA Tabasco & Chiapas
(p229)
VIA HIGHWAY 180 213
Hecelchakán 213
Bécal 214
CAMPECHE TO MÉRIDA
VIA HIGHWAY 261 214
Edzná 214
Hopelchén 216
 © Lonely Planet Publications
18 19

Destination Yucatán
Natural disasters have been wreaking havoc throughout Yucatán, Tabasco
and Chiapas in recent years. It’s not a new story – after all, this is Hurricane
Alley – but it’s a sad and noteworthy one.
Massive storms along the Gulf Coast caused nearly 80% of Tabasco to flood
in late 2007 (see boxed text, p228). Hundreds of thousands of people were
displaced, a large, 11,700-barrel oil spill contaminated portions of the Bay
of Campeche, and landslides wiped out villages and roads in both Tabasco
and Chiapas. If that wasn’t bad enough, just months earlier Hurricane Dean
romped into town, literally obliterating the southern Quintana Roo town of
FAST FACTS Mahahual (see boxed text, p133). The state capital of Chetumal also suffered
damage at the muscular, sinewy hands of Dean.
Population: 3.7 million
The real-estate developers seem to be taking this all in their stride, using
(peninsular states only)
the broken infrastructure (Hurricane Wilma tromped through just a few years
Annual population growth: back, laying waste to much of the Riviera Maya) as an excuse to build bigger.
4.7% Quintana Roo, 1.6% Throughout the peninsula you see massive tourist development, condos are
Campeche & Yucatán being built faster than they can be sold along the Caribbean and northern
states (national 1.1%) Gulf Coasts, and several plans are in place to create new cruise-ship docks
Area: 148,961 sq km along the Quintana Roo coast. But tourism development isn’t all bad: it brings
Percentage of national
in much-needed revenue lost after the recent natural disasters. And some
territory: 7.1%
grass-roots organizations are starting to develop low-impact cultural tourism
(see boxed text, p99) in the small Maya communities that dot the peninsula.
Length of coastline: The country’s presidential elections of 2006 were highly contested, with
1764km just-right-of-center Felipe Calderón Hinojosa taking over the reins from
GDP per person: Vicente Fox. The election kicked off protests nationwide, with the opposi-
M$12,218 Yucatán, tion candidate, Andrés Manuel López Obrador, going as far as setting up an
M$22,159 Quintana Roo, alternative government in protest against the close-call election. But things
M$24,838 Campeche have simmered down since then. Folks seem ready to let the matter fade into
(national M$15,243) history, focusing on the other problems still facing the region.
Number of foreign tourists One of the biggest issues of the day is drug trafficking. Cancún has seen an
in 2005: 5.8 million explosive growth in violence tied to the drug trade. According to news reports,
(Quintana Roo 5.2 million) the city is being used as a puente (bridge) to bring cocaine from South America
into the US. While the violence has yet to affect tourists (honestly, drug runners
Adult literacy: 91.6% would rather not draw attention to themselves), it has become a serious prob-
Percentage of national oil lem here and elsewhere in Mexico. There seem to be more drug checkpoints
production: 60% throughout the region than there were just a few years ago, with Presidente
Remittances from US Calderón mobilizing the military to take the fight to the traffickers.
employment: approx Immigration and poverty are also hot-button topics being discussed
US$150 million across the peninsula. It’s not just immigration to the US or the fast-growing
maquiladora (low-paying, export-only factories) industry being talked about,
it’s also about immigrants coming here from Central America seeking work
and perhaps a safe haven from the growing gang violence and rampant poverty
plaguing the northern states of the isthmus. There have even been a few rafts
turning up in Isla Mujeres from Cuba. There have also been a few shocking
reports of child trafficking, primarily for sexual purposes, in the region.
But all news isn’t bad news. In Chiapas, the revolutionary Zapatistas (see
boxed text, p234) have quieted and pacified in recent years, making travel
to this remote highland region a possibility even for mainstream tourists.
Chichén Itzá, the massive Maya-Toltec site in eastern Yucatán state, was voted
one of the ‘Seven Modern Wonders of the World,’ and the first Yucatec-
Maya-language Hollywood film, Apocalypto, hit the silver screen in 2006,
bringing both fame and infamy to the region.
 20 lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l L i t e r a t u re 21

Rates in the Riviera Maya can easily cost twice as much as this. Cancún is LONELY PLANET

Getting Started the most expensive town in Mexico, and Playa del Carmen and Cozumel are
not far behind. In those places, a pair of travelers can expect to pay M$600
to M$1000 for a decent room – way more during high season.
INDEX
1L petrol M$6.70
1L bottle of water M$10
A journey to the Yucatán Peninsula, Tabasco or Chiapas doesn’t necessarily Car-rental costs (including the mandatory third-party insurance) start
require much advance planning. Apart from the peak periods mentioned around M$300 to M$500 per day, plus fuel (book ahead over the internet to Bottle of beer M$20
below, just check flight times, grab your passport and you’re on your way. save a bundle). Extra expenses, such as internal airfares, tours and shopping,
Souvenir T-shirt
Outside the limited peak seasons, there’s little competition for accommoda- will of course push your expenses up, but if there are two or more of you,
M$80-100
tions, and transportation around the peninsula is cheap and frequent. Perhaps overall costs per person drop considerably. Double rooms often cost only a
your best pretrip preparation would be to learn some Spanish – every word few dollars more than singles, and triple or family rooms only a few dollars Street taco M$8-10
you know will make your trip that little bit easier and more enjoyable. See more than doubles. Children aged under 13 pay reduced prices on many
p54 and p282 for some words and phrases. buses and flights, and at some sights and attractions. HOW MUCH?
For the most part, Yucatán is no more dangerous than any major Western city. Top-end hotels and resorts run a wide spectrum of prices, often charging One-person hammock
Stay street savvy, don’t wear expensive jewelry, and keep in mind that the locals upwards of M$2000 for a room. Restaurants in the same class can charge M$200
(especially in Chiapas) are not on display (see Traveling Responsibly, p22). M$500 per person, and are largely targeted at the tourist trade. In most cases
you’re better off eating at locals’ joints. 1kg freshly made tortillas
M$7
WHEN TO GO
See Climate Charts (p251) Any time is a good time to visit the Yucatán, though perhaps the best time is TRAVEL LITERATURE Small rental car per day
for more information. during November and early December, as there are fewer tourists and prices Incidents of Travel in Central America, Chiapas & Yucatan and Incidents of M$300-500
are relatively low. September and October can be equally low-key unless a Travel in Yucatan, by John L Stephens, are fascinating accounts of adventure Internet per hour M$10
hurricane decides to pass through (see below). May to September are the and discovery by the enthusiastic 19th-century amateur archaeologist. Both
books contain superb illustrations by architect Frederick Catherwood, who Major museum or
months with the highest rainfall and highest temperatures, with May and archaeological site M$34
June being the hottest, muggiest months. The highlands of Chiapas can get accompanied Stephens in 1839 and 1841 as he explored a large part of the
downright cold at night. Maya region.
The occasional norte (storm bringing wind and rain from the north) can Aldous Huxley traveled through Mexico, too; Beyond the Mexique Bay,
cool things off considerably for brief spells between November and February. first published in 1934, has interesting observations on the Maya. Also
This makes for more pleasant ruins exploration but may delay plans for interesting is Graham Greene’s The Lawless Roads, chronicling the writer’s
snorkeling or beachcombing. Birding and wildlife-watching are good year- travels through Chiapas and Tabasco in 1938.
round, and mid-May through mid-September is the time to come to glimpse Time Among the Maya: Travels in Belize, Guatemala, and Mexico, by
whale sharks (see boxed text, p97). Ronald Wright, is a thoughtful account of numerous journeys made among
July and August are peak holiday months for both Mexicans and foreign- the descendants of the ancient Maya and will certainly help you to get a feel
ers, as is mid-December to early January. A week either side of Easter is also for Maya culture as you travel the region.
a peak holiday period for Mexicans. At these times the coastal resorts attract Most of the Maya codices were destroyed during the conquest (only four
big crowds, room prices go up in popular places, and rooms and public exist today), but The Books of Chilam Balam, written by a Maya prophet
transportation can be heavily booked, so advance reservations are advisable.
In addition, Cancún is swamped with reveling young US college students DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…
during spring break (late February to early March).
If a full-blown hurricane is predicted for the region you are in, go some- Checking your foreign ministry’s Mexico travel information (p252)
where else – fast! At the very least go inland, far from the dangerous sea swell All the necessary paperwork if you’re driving into Mexico (p269)
that invariably accompanies hurricanes. The National Hurricane Center (www
.nhc.noaa.gov) has up-to-date info. Clothes to cope with Yucatán’s air-conditioned rooms (and buses) or the occasional cool,
windy evening in norte (storm bringing wind and rain from the north) season (opposite)
COSTS & MONEY Any necessary immunizations or medications you require, including contraceptives (p276)
With the exception of the resort areas of the Caribbean coast (often referred A flashlight (torch) for some of those not-so-well-lit streets, stairways, caves or pyramid
to as the Riviera Maya), travel in Yucatán is still fairly inexpensive. Things get chambers – and for power outages
even cheaper in Chiapas, though Tabasco, with its fancy oil money, can be a An inconspicuous container for money and valuables, such as a small, slim wallet or an under-
bit pricey. Midrange travelers can live well in most parts of the peninsula for the-clothes pouch or money belt (p252)
M$600 to M$1000 per person per day. Two people can usually find a clean,
comfortable room with private bathroom and fan or air-conditioning for Your favorite sunglasses
M$400 to M$600, and use the rest to pay for food (a full lunch or dinner in A small padlock
a typical decent restaurant costs around M$100 to M$150), admission fees, A small Spanish dictionary and/or phrasebook
transport and incidentals. Budget travelers should allot M$250 to M$500
each per day for accommodations and two meals a day in cheap restaurants. Adequate travel insurance (p276)
Add in other costs (like contracting a guide or taking a snorkeling trip) and Mosquito repellent and a mosquito net if you plan to do any outdoor sleeping
you’ll spend more like M$500 to M$700.
22 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T r a v e l L i t e r a t u re lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • T o p 1 0 23

ancún
during the late 15th century, chronicles much of the oral traditions and Yucatán
legends of the Yucatec Maya. It’s a rather obscure read, and you’re better off
checking out the Guatemalan Quiche Maya sacred text known as the Popol
Vuh. Michael Coe’s The Maya is the definitive history text of these people. TOP 10 Tabasco
Y U C AT
Campeche
ÁN
Quintana
Roo

FIESTAS
TRAVELING RESPONSIBLY Consider planning your itinerary around one or more of these colorful festivals.
Traveling sustainably is all the rage these days. But how sustainable can you actually get? After 1 Día de los Reyes Magos (Three Kings’ Day; 6 Festival de Nuestra Señora de Carmen,
all you’ll probably fly here, putting a bunch of harmful carbon dioxide into the atmosphere, p254), best experienced in Tizimín. First Ciudad del Carmen (p220). July 16.
and tourism creates all sorts of nasty side effects, like the homogenization of cultures, the loss week of January. 7 Feria de San Román, Campeche (p208).
of language and the degradation of the environment. But traveling can still be a good thing, 2 Carnaval (Carnival), celebrated most wildly September 14.
right? Of course it can: it’s a revenue generator, a valuable cultural interchange, an awareness in Mérida (p158), Campeche (p208), 8 Festival Cervantino Barroco, San Cristóbal
builder that can often serve to protect the environment and, above all, it’s fun! This book has a Chetumal (p140) and Ciudad del Carmen de las Casas (p235). Late October to early
handy GreenDex (p309), which will lead you to some sustainable choices. Also check out ‘Small (p220). Late February or early March. November.
Footprints, Large Impact’ (p63). 3 Vernal Equinox, Chichén Itzá (p186) and 9 Toh Festival de Aves de Yucatán (Birds
Dzibilchaltún (p182). March 20 to 21. Festival), Mérida and other points on the
Getting There & Around
4 Semana Santa (Holy Week), particularly color- peninsula (p59). Last week of November.
While carbon offsets for your flight will not save the world, they are a good first step. There
ful in Mérida (p158) and San Cristóbal de Las 10 Día de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (Day
are a ton of companies out there. Lonely Planet offsets its travel through www.climatecare.org.
Casas (p235). Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday. of Our Lady of Guadalupe), Campeche
Consider targeting your trip to lower your environmental footprint. You don’t have to see all of
the peninsula in one visit. 5 Feria de Santiago, Río Lagartos (see boxed (p208). December 12.
text, p199). Second Saturday in July.
Accommodations & Food
One of the quickest ways to create a more sustainable future for tourism is by avoiding the big WILDLIFE-WATCHING SPOTS
chain hotels and restaurants. Most of the profit gets siphoned out of the country. Also consider
staying in the smaller towns that you normally would have visited on a day trip. The added rev- 1 Reserva de la Biósfera Ría Celestún (p180) 6 Punta Laguna (p132) Secluded lake
enue serves as an incentive for folks to stay in their native village, maintain their language and Prime destination for birders. frequented by spider and howler monkeys.
customs, and skip out on that job in the big city. The Maya culture has long been an insular one, 2 Laguna de Términos (p219) Huge freshwa- 7 Reserva de la Biósfera Ría Lagartos (p198)
but folks living in the countryside are now realizing that tourism may be key to maintaining their ter lagoon where birds flock and marine Wetlands haven for thousands of flamingos
traditions. With this is mind, many small communities are now welcoming tourists. It’s a great turtles nest. and a few crocodiles.
way to create a positive impact, and it also puts you on the edge of experiential travel. 3 Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul (p222) 8 Parque Nacional Isla Contoy (p96) Island
Jaguars, eagles and simians roam the tropi- seabird sanctuary.
Respect ‘til the End cal forest and archaeological zone. 9 Chiapas’ Selva Lacandón (see boxed text,
According to leading Mayanologist Michael Coe, the single largest threat to the Maya culture 4 Cozumel (p108) Jumping-off point for the p242) Megadiverse, though endangered,
and language is tourism. So how can we as travelers help protect cultures and environments at Great Maya Barrier Reef, with astoundingly section of jungle.
risk of extinction? It’s all about respect. Respect the locals, try to learn some of their language, varied marine life. 10 Reserva de la Biósfera Pantanos de Centla
respect the environment and its sanctity. And, above all, respect your mother!
5 Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka’an (p133) (p230) Manatees, monkeys and mangroves.
Vast wildlife habitat encompassing tropical
Internet Resources
forest and coral reefs.
Blue Flag (www.blueflag.org) An ecocreditation program that focuses on marinas and beaches.
Caribbean Sustainable Tourism Alliance (www.cha-cast.com) Focuses mainly on the MAYA RUINS
Caribbean, but also has some good reef ecology info.
1 Chichén Itzá (p186) Modern ‘Wonder of 6 Tulum (p122) Majestic temple overlooking
Coral Reef Alliance (www.coral.org) Has reef protection guidelines. the World,’ with amazing architecture and the Caribbean.
Green Globe (www.greenglobe.org) For general information. perhaps the world’s largest calendar. 7 Becán (p224) Moated military compound
International Ecotourism Society (www.ecotourism.org) Lists ecofriendly businesses that have 2 Uxmal (p167) The Puuc region’s crown with beautiful examples of Río Bec
jumped through the hoops to gain accreditation. jewel. architecture.
Mexican Adventure & Ecotourism Association (www.amtave.org) Lists some of the region’s 3 Palenque (p240) Showcase of Maya art and 8 Dzibilchaltún (p182) Comes to fiery life
ecotourism operators. architecture in wonderful jungle setting. during the equinox.
4 Cobá (p129) Explore a largely unexcavated 9 Edzná (p214) Totally as cool as Uxmal with
Mexiconservacion (www.mexiconservacion.org) Has a green guide to the Yucatán.
city. about half the visitors.
Puerte Verde (www.puertaverde.com.mx, in Spanish) Developing agro-tourism in Quintana Roo.
5 Calakmul (p222) Tikal’s archrival, deep in 10 Ek’ Balam (p196) Restored and unrestored
Responsibletravel.com (www.responsibletravel.com) For general information. the tropical forest. ruins with well-preserved stucco paintings.
24 G E T T I N G S TA R T E D • • I n t e r n e t R e s o u r c e s lonelyplanet.com

INTERNET RESOURCES
Campeche Travel (www.campechetravel.com) Campeche State Tourism Board site.
Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com)
Maya Yucatán (www.mayayucatan.com.mx) Yucatán State Tourism Board site.
Riviera Maya (www.rivieramaya.com) Has info on the Riviera Maya’s sights and activities.
There’s also a handy calendar on the home page.
Yucatán Today (www.yucatantoday.com) Online version of free monthly magazine covering
Yucatán and Campeche states.
The other introductory chapters in this book contain more online
possibilities.
24 25

Itineraries
CLASSIC ROUTES
CANCÚN & THE RIVIERA MAYA Five to 12 Days
With just a few days in Cancún (p72), start off at the suicidal-blonde beaches
of the Zona Hotelera (p76). Take a trip to Isla Mujeres (p88) for some fine snor-
keling or diving. Then try something different: a cenote (limestone sinkhole),
such as Siete Bocas (p100) near Puerto Morelos. You’ll definitely want to visit
a Maya ruin; Cobá (p129), Chichén Itzá (p186) or Tulum (p122) make easy day
trips. Then slip over to Isla Holbox (p96), where you can lie back in a hammock
or snorkel with whale sharks.
With another week you can cover a lot of ground or take it slow. Either
way, head south to Puerto Morelos (p99) for a peek at its artisans market, then
to uberchic Playa del Carmen (p102), which makes a great base camp for day
trips to Isla Cozumel (p108), where you’ll enjoy amazing diving and snorkeling.
Then head south to Tulum (p122), where you can recharge on one of the most
perfect beaches and visit the ruins.

This easy 150km to

Isla Holbox 300km trip stays
close to Cancún and
Isla Mujeres the Riviera Maya
Cancún
Siete coastline, letting
Bocas
Puerto Morelos you duck out to
Yucatán Playa del Carmen beaches, go shop-
Chichén
Itzá Isla
Cozumel
ping, visit cenotes
Cobá
Tulum and Maya ruins,
and simply relax.

Quintana
Roo

Campeche
 26 ITINERARIES •• Classic Routes lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • R o a d s Le s s T r a v e l e d 27

ONCE UPON A TIME IN THE YUCATÁN Two to Three Weeks

This trip is a mix of Caribbean coast, natural wonders, antique Maya artistry ROADS LESS TRAVELED
and culturally vibrant cities. Cancún (p72) is the region’s gateway, but those
in search of less glitzy pleasures should push on. Get in some snorkeling at
the beach-fringed island of Isla Mujeres (p88). Then hug the coast to the more INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN CAMPECHE Two Weeks
low-key resort of Playa del Carmen (p102), which provides easy access to Isla While tourists crowd the coastal resorts of Quintana Roo, Campeche state
Cozumel (p108) and adjacent Great Maya Barrier Reef. Further south you remains wide open to exploration. From Chetumal (p140) follow the highway
reach Tulum (p122), with its stunning Maya temple facing the Caribbean. into Campeche, a green corridor passing some of the peninsula’s most fas-
When you’ve had your fill of sun and sea, strike inland. Visit the major cinating, remote ruins. Base yourself in Xpujil (p224) – or better, Zoh-Laguna
Maya ceremonial center of Cobá (p129) on the way to Valladolid (p193), a (p225), a lagoon community north of the highway – to survey these marvels,
relaxed colonial town in an area speckled with azure cenotes. From there, it’s much as travelers Stephens and Catherwood did in the mid-19th century.
a brief hop to world-renowned Chichén Itzá (p186), where the plumed serpent Take a day to visit Calakmul (p222), a sprawling site ensconced within the
of the Toltec civilization reigns supreme. Stop in the small Maya villages Reserva de Biósfera de la Calakmul, and another day for the secluded ruins
along the way as you head to Mérida (p149), where you’ll enjoy traditional of Río Bec (see boxed text, p226), whose secrets are still being uncovered.
music and dance in the plazas, shop for embroidered clothing and dine on The road north from Xpujil traverses a landscape of corn and beehives
classic cuisine. Mérida makes a good base for trips to magnificent Uxmal with a string of tranquil villages alongside Maya ruins, such as Dzibilnocac
(p167) and other Maya sites along the Ruta Puuc (p172), the colonial city of (p217) and Hochob (p217). Stay in Hopelchén (p216) to better appreciate these
Izamal (p185) to the east and the laid-back Gulf resort of Progreso (p183). eerie marvels as well as some extensive caves, the Grutas de Xtacumbilxuna’an
From Mérida, many travelers head to the walled colonial city of Campeche (p217). Travel westward to Campeche (p203), the historically rich state capi-
(p203) on their way to the jungles of Chiapas to admire the ruins of Palenque tal, then follow the Gulf Coast southwest. Spend some time in Sabancuy
(p240), ending their trip in the contemporary Maya enclave of San Cristóbal (p219), a delightful fishing village on an estuary with easy access to deserted
de Las Casas (p231). Gulf beaches. Proceed along the protected wetlands and bird sanctuary that
make up Laguna de Términos (p219) to Ciudad del Carmen (p220), an island city
known for its seafood and midsummer festival. To the west stretches the
Atasta Peninsula (p221), a lush tropical strip that’s a jumping-off point for
boat trips around the wildlife-rich mangrove islets.

The 940km grand Phantasmagoric

Isla
tour follows the Mujeres Maya monuments,
Progreso Yucatán
Caribbean coast, Izamal Cancún pristine tropical
Mérida Playa del
then traverses the Valladolid Carmen
Yucatán forest, birder-
temple-studded Uxmal Chichén Cobá
Isla friendly coastal
Itzá
Cozumel
heartland to Ruta Puuc
Tulum wetlands and the
Campeche
Mérida, the pe- Grutas de
Xtacumbilxuna'an
magnificently
Quintana
ninsular capital, Roo Campeche restored colonial
before heading off Campeche Hopelchén
state capital high-
Quintana
into the jungles of Dzibilnocac light this fascinat-
Hochob Roo
Chiapas and the Tabasco ing 600km journey
Ciudad del
Campeche
extraordinary ruins Atasta Carmen
Sabancuy through ‘the other
Peninsula Zoh-Laguna
at Palenque. Palenque Laguna de
Términos
Chetumal Yucatán.’
Xpujil
Río Bec
San Cristóbal
de Las Casas Calakmul
Chiapas

Chiapas
 © Lonely Planet Publications
28 I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I T I N E R A R I E S • • Ta i l o re d T r i p s 29

TAILORED TRIPS Oxkutzcab (p178) and Tekax (p179), offering glimpses of traditional Maya life.
Toward Valladolid is the must-see Unesco World Heritage site of Chichén Itzá
(p186). In Tihosuco (p179), a museum outlines the Yucatán’s definitive con-
flict, the War of the Castes. On the Caribbean coast, the Maya city of Tulum
WHERE THE WILD THINGS ROAM (p122) provides a mysterious backdrop for modern sun devotees.
The peninsula has some amazing wildlife-watching opportunities, and The peninsula’s south harbors numerous fascinating but scarcely visited
most of these are found well off the beaten path. What’s better, you pass remnants of Classic Maya civilization ensconced in the vast Reserva de la
through some really cool Maya towns along the way. Biósfera Calakmul (p222). Serious Maya buffs will want to extend their explo-
Leave Cancún as soon as possible, heading out for a day trip to the bird rations to the ruins of Palenque (p240) and the contemporary Maya domain
sanctuary of Isla Contoy (p96). From here it’s off to the wilds. Swing up to of San Cristóbal de Las Casas (p231).
the Gulf fishing towns of Río Lagartos (p198) and San Felipe (p200), a stag-
ing point to visit the Reserva de la Biósfera Ría Lagartos (p198), where you’ll SUN WORSHIPPERS
spot thousands of pink flamingos, crocs, herons and more. The bold can Soak up rays in Cancún (p72), be it poolside or on a sandy, white, wave-
consider some DIY camping on the coast here. washed beach. Then take a ferry to Isla Mujeres (p88) and soak up some
Skip the major highways as you travel the more. Head south to Puerto Morelos (p99) if you like quiet, or to Playa del
backloads across Yucatán state to the Reserva de Carmen (p102) if you don’t. At Tulum (p122)
Río Lagartos Reserva de
San Felipe la Biósfera la Biósfera Ría Celestún (p180), staying in the super- you get the best of both sun-worshipping Isla
Mujeres
Ría Lagartos Cancún
Reserva de la Celestún Forgotten Maya
chill town of Celestún (p179). After recharging your worlds: coral-sand beaches, azure water and
Biósfera Ría Celestún Isla Puerto
Villages
Contoy batteries for a day or two, taking the time to visit Maya ruins overlooking it all. When you’re happy Morelos
Ruined Haciendas Route
Punta Dzibilchaltún
Laguna
the mangrove swamps easily reachable from town, with your tan, leave the coast and check out Cobá Celestún
Ek'Balam

Punta head down toward Campeche state through the (p129) and Ek’ Balam (p196). Plan your trip for Chichén
Itzá Cobá
Allen Uxmal Playa del
Chenes Ruins Reserva de
Ruined Haciendas Route (p182). an equinox to really do full justice to Chichén Itzá Carmen
Ruta Tulum
Reserva de
la Biósfera
Sian Ka'an
With a few more weeks, you can head down (p186) and Dzibilchaltún (p182), both of which Puuc
Laguna
la Biósfera
Calakmul Bacalar through the Chenes Ruins (p217) to Mexico’s larg- have curious solar displays. Celestún (p179) brings Isla
Aguada
est wildlife preserve, Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul you back to the beach. From there, hit Uxmal Puerto Dzibanché
Ceiba Becán
(p222). Spend a few days camping out, visiting the (p167) and the Ruta Puuc (p172) for awe-inspiring
ruins and exploring the wild, dreadlocked jungle insights into the Maya mind, then ‘sunspire’ Calakmul Kohunlich

before you spin eastward toward Quintana Roo. yourself again at Isla Aguada (p219) and Puerto Palenque
As you head north through Quintana Roo, stop Ceiba (see boxed text, p231). Take a few days to
in the massive inland Laguna Bacalar (p139), a great visit Palenque (p238) and its spectacular tower,
off-track spot for camping and kayaking. Then El Palacio, where Maya royals watched the sun
it’s up to Punta Allen (p134) for a few days of kayaking, fishing or mangrove fall onto the Templo de los Inscripciones, or head back east through Becán
trips through the remote Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka’an (p133). Once again, (p224), Calakmul (p222), Kohunlich (p146) and Dzibanché (p145).
skip the major roads as you head back to Cancún, opting instead to visit
Punta Laguna (p132) and the other forgotten Maya villages (see ‘Off the Map DIVER’S & SNORKELER’S DREAM
–Alternative Tourism on the Rise in Quintana Roo,’ p99) of the region. Diving and snorkeling along the Yucatán Peninsula is probably as addic-
tive as some of the substances you get offered from shifty guys lurking in a
MOSTLY MAYA Cancún alleyway. Snorkelers can tag along to many of the following spots,
The architectural and artistic achievements of the Classic Maya period are as even after Hurricanes Wilma and Dean, many shallow spots are still spec-
dotted across the peninsula. Though the ancient cities are long abandoned, tacular. Divers must – yes, must – head to Isla Cozumel (p108) for a peek
the Maya people and their traditions are still very at one of the wonders Cousteau brought to the
much with us. world’s attention. The Santa Rosa Wall (p113)
For background, visit the Museo de la Arquitectura is Cozumel’s most famous dive – you’ll only see
Chichén
Itzá Maya (p205) in Campeche or the Museo de la Cultura one-third of the wall’s amazing sights with one Isla
Cenote Dos Ojos Cozumel
Ticul Maya (p141) in Chetumal. Near Campeche is tank. Snorkelers and novice divers should head Tulum
Uxmal Oxkutzcab Cenote Angelita
Tulum Edzná (p214), a formidable Maya site with a five- to the Colombia shallows (p113) for great vis-
Tekax Banco
Campeche Hopelchén Tihosuco story temple. Further east are the Chenes sites ibility and some of the area’s most spectacular Chinchorro
Mahahual
Edzná Dzibilnocac of Dzibilnocac (p217) and Hochob (p217), which coral formations. If you tire of diving the reefs
Hochob Xcalak
have temples displaying macabre masks. Maya and walls there (you won’t), cross to the main-
is widely spoken here, and you can witness the land for a cenote dive at Angelita (p123) or Dos
Chetumal
ancient arts of beekeeping and herbal medicine Ojos (p121). It’s an otherworldly experience. A
Reserva de la
Biósfera Calakmul in Hopelchén (p216). To the north, the Puuc hills good place to organize a trip to the cenotes (and
Palenque
lend their name to an architectural style, mag- do some snorkeling) is Tulum (p122). Then head
nificently represented by Uxmal (p167). A route south to Mahahual (p136) or the remoter Xcalak
San Cristóbal then leads through the villages of Ticul (p176),
de Las Casas (p137) for trips out to Banco Chinchorro (p137).
30 31

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30 lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• Enter the Maya 31

History YUCATÁN’S DINOSAUR-KILLING METEORITE

For the past two decades there has been growing scientific agreement that a meteorite slammed
into the Yucatán 65 million years ago, kicking up enough debris to block out the sun for a dec-
In the Yucatán, history is never kept in the past. It ebbs and flows through ade, which either triggered a global freeze or made the air so unbreathable that two-thirds of
every aspect of modern life, like a thousand-limbed juggernaut hell-bent the earth’s species became extinct.
on its own preservation. From the beginning, it’s been a tale of inequality, In 1980 scientists theorized that the extinction of the dinosaurs had been caused by an ‘impact
For a concise but pretty predation and subjugation; intellectual and spiritual triumph; independence, event,’ such as a meteor crash. Using seismic monitoring equipment, scientists found evidence
complete account of fame and famine. And, of course, like just about everywhere else in the world, for the existence of such an enormous crater off the northern coast of Yucatán near the port
the ancient cultures of it’s mostly been a tale of greed. of Chicxulub.
southern Mexico and While Europe was sliding into the Dark Ages, the people of the Yucatán
Guatemala, read The had already reached what is arguably the pinnacle of New World civilization.
Maya, by Michael D Coe. The conquest and eventual subjugation of the Maya created vast riches for ENTER THE MAYA
the landed elite as the region continued to develop independently from the Archaeologists believe Maya-speaking people first appeared in the highlands Mundo Maya online
rest of Mexico – though it could not help but be influenced by its powerful of Guatemala as early as 2500 BC, and in the following century groups of (www.mayadiscovery
neighbor. More recently it has faced a different sort of cultural revolution Maya relocated to the lowlands of the Yucatán Peninsula. .com) features articles
with mass tourism taking deep root along the coast. Still, beyond Cancún’s Agriculture played an increasingly important role in Maya life. Watching on Maya cosmology,
glitzy façade beats the syncopated pulse of an ancient culture charting its the skies and noting the movements of the planets and stars, the Maya were navigation and agri-
delicate course through the tendriled pathways of history. able to correlate their astronomical observations with the rains and agri- culture, among other
cultural cycles. As the Maya improved their agricultural skills, their society aspects of this incredible
EARLY AMERICANS stratified into various classes and occupations. Villages sprang up beneath the ancient civilization.
Conventional wisdom holds that humans arrived in the Americas from jungle canopy and temples were constructed from the abundant limestone.
Siberia around 40,000 years ago, via a land bridge across the Bering Strait that An easily carved substance, limestone allowed the builders to demonstrate
connected present-day Alaska with Asia. Recent evidence dates human pres- a high degree of artistic expression. The material could also be made into
ence in Mexico’s central plateau to roughly 13,000 years ago, and the Yucatán plaster, upon which artists painted murals to chronicle events.
was probably populated a few millennia later. By 5700 BC people were plant- Local potentates were buried beneath these elaborate temples. As each
ing maize (corn) in the Tehuacán valley in what is now Puebla state. successive leader had to have a bigger temple, larger platforms were placed
By 2000 BC many Mesoamericans (peoples between present-day central upon earlier ones, forming gigantic step pyramids with a thatched shelter on
Mexico and Nicaragua) were cultivating corn, squash, avocados and beans, top. Often these temple-pyramids were decorated with huge stylized masks.
and raising chickens, turkeys and dogs. They continued to hunt and fish as More and more pyramids were built around large plazas, much as the com-
The jaguar motifs first they had for generations, but they became dependent upon crops. mon people clustered their thatched houses facing a common open space. The elite of the Classic
used by the Olmecs were Mexico’s ancestral civilization arose near the Gulf Coast, in the humid This heralded the flourishing of the Classic Maya civilization. Maya often received
adopted by successive lowlands of southern Veracruz and neighboring Tabasco. These were the enemas of a sweet mead
civilizations throughout Olmecs, who invented a hieroglyphic writing system and erected ceremo- The Golden Age name balché. They also
Mesoamerica. nial centers for the practice of religious rituals. Best known for the colossal Over the six centuries of the Classic Maya period (AD 250 to 925), the Maya thought being cross-
heads they carved from basalt slabs, the Olmecs developed an artistic style, made spectacular intellectual and artistic strides, a legacy that can still be eyed was particularly
highlighted by jaguar motifs. admired today throughout the peninsula. The great ceremonial centers at beautiful.
Even after their demise, aspects of Olmec culture lived on among their Copán, Tikal, Yaxchilán (p243), Palenque (p238), and especially Kaminaljuyú
neighbors, paving the way for the later accomplishments of Maya art, archi- (near present-day Guatemala City), flourished during the early phase of
tecture and science. Borrowing significantly from the Olmecs, the Zapotec this period. Around AD 400 armies from Teotihuacán invaded the Maya
culture arose in the highlands of Oaxaca at Monte Albán, and subsequent highlands, imposing their rule and their culture for a time, though they were
civilizations at Teotihuacán (near current-day Mexico City) and at El Tajín finally absorbed into the daily life of the Maya, a marriage that engendered
in northern Veracruz also show Olmec influence. the so-called Esperanza culture.

up to 10,000 BC 3114 BC 2400 BC 1000 BC–AD 250 AD 250–925 925–1530

The first humans arrive in the Our current universe is Maya-speaking farmers arrive The Pre-Classic period. The earli- The Classic period. It’s a time The Post-Classic period. The
Yucatán region. The numbers created – at least according to in the Yucatán Peninsula, while est Maya villages begin to form of high society, marked by the bellicose Toltecs of central
of grassland animals dwindle Maya mythology. Archaeolo- elsewhere in Mexico more in Yucatán, Chiapas and Guate- invasion of the Teotihuacán, Mexico establish their domain
as temperatures significantly gists have even been able to developed ‘civilization’ is begin- mala. The Maya have become the rise of the Puuc, and the at Chichén Itzá, then the Itzáes
increase over the next 2000 pin down a specific date for the ning to take root. The Olmec cul- adept farmers and astronomers. eventual collapse of the Classic form the League of Mayapán,
years, leading indigenous creation: August 13, 3114 BC. ture creates a system of writing. The Izapan civilization creates Maya and the ascendancy of which dominates politics in
populations to begin larger- Olmec culture later influences a calendar and writing system the Toltec. northern Yucatán for a couple
scale agriculture. the Zapotec culture. and massive pyramids are built. hundred years.
 32 H I S T O R Y • • P o s t - C l a s s i c Pe r i o d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• The New World Order 33

Chronicle of the Maya After AD 600, at the height of the Late Classic period, the Maya lands were the Maya with their water supply), and they even named their new home
Kings and Queens, by ruled not as an empire but as a collection of independent, but also inter- Chichén Itzá (Mouth of the Well of the Itzáes).
Simon Martin and Nikolai dependent, city-states. Each of these had its noble house, headed by a king From Chichén Itzá, the ruling Itzáes traveled westwards and founded a
Grube, tells in superbly who was the social, political and religious focus of the city’s life. This ruler new capital city at Mayapán, which dominated the political life of northern Back in the 1500s
illustrated detail the propitiated the gods by shedding his blood in ceremonies where he pierced Yucatán for several hundred years. (For more on the rise of Mayapán, see traveling Maya merchants
histories of 11 of the most his tongue or penis with a sharp instrument, and led his soldiers into battle boxed text, p174.) From Mayapán, the Cocom lineage of the Itzáes ruled would burn incense
important Maya city- against rival cities, capturing prisoners for use in human sacrifices. a fractious collection of Yucatecan city-states until the mid-15th century, nightly on their journeys
states and their rulers. Toward the end of the Classic period, the focus of Maya civilization when a subject people from Uxmal, the Xiú, overthrew Cocom power. as an offering for safe
shifted northward to Yucatán, where new nuclei developed at what is now Mayapán was pillaged, ruined and never repopulated. For the next century, passage to the god
called Chichén Itzá (p186), Uxmal (p167) and Calakmul (p222), giving us until the coming of the conquistadors, northern Yucatán was alive with Ek-chuah.
the artistic styles known as Puuc, Chenes and Río Bec. battles and power struggles among its city-states.

POST-CLASSIC PERIOD THE NEW WORLD ORDER

The Toltecs Led by Christopher Columbus, the Spanish arrived in the Caribbean in
The collapse of Classic Maya civilization is as surprising as it was sudden. It 1492 and proceeded to seek a westward passage to Asia. They staged ex-
seems as though the upper classes demanded ever more servants, acolytes ploratory expeditions to the Yucatán in 1517 and 1518, but hostile natives
and laborers, and though the Maya population was growing rapidly, it did fiercely resisted their attempts to penetrate Mexico’s Gulf Coast.
not furnish enough farmers to feed everyone. Thus weakened, the Maya were Then Diego Velázquez, the governor of Cuba, asked his ambitious young
prey to the next wave of invaders from central Mexico. personal secretary, Hernán Cortés, to lead a new expedition westward.
In the wake of Teotihuacán’s demise, the Toltec people emerged as Even though Velázquez subsequently tried to cancel the voyage, Cortés set
Mexico’s new boss, establishing their capital at Tula (north of present- sail on February 15, 1519, with 11 ships, 550 men and 16 horses. More than 66.5 million
day Mexico City). According to most historians, a Toltec faction, led by Landing first at the isle of Cozumel off the Yucatán, the Spaniards were Native Americans died
a fair-haired, bearded king named Topiltzin – the self-proclaimed heir to joined by Jerónimo de Aguilar, a Spanish priest who had been shipwrecked within 150 years of the
the title of Quetzalcóatl (Plumed Serpent) – was forced to leave its native there several years earlier. With Aguilar acting as translator and guide, arrival of Columbus,
land by hostile warrior clans. Quetzalcóatl and his followers retreated to Cortés’ force moved west along the coast to Tabasco. After defeating the according to some
the Gulf Coast and sailed eastward to Yucatán, establishing their new base inhabitants there, the expedition headed inland, winning more battles and estimates.
at Uucil-abnal – the land that would be Chichén Itzá. The culture at this some converts to Christianity as it went.
Toltec-dominated center flourished after the late 10th century, when all Central Mexico was then dominated by the Aztec empire from its capital
of the great buildings were constructed, but by 1200 the city was aban- of Tenochtitlán (now Mexico City). The Aztecs, like many other cultures
doned. Many Mexicans believed, however, that the Plumed Serpent king in the area, believed that Quetzalcóatl would one day return from the east,
would someday return from the direction of the rising sun to reclaim his according to most historians, and – conveniently for him – Cortés’ arrival
domain at Tula. coincided with their prophecies of the Plumed Serpent’s return. The Aztecs
allowed the small Spanish force into the capital, perhaps fearful of angering Legend has it that the
The Itzáes these strangers who might be gods. peninsula got its name
Check www.sacred-texts Forced by invaders to leave their traditional homeland on the Yucatán’s By this time thousands of members of the Aztecs’ subject peoples had when the Spanish
.com for good transla- Gulf Coast, a group called the Itzáes headed southeast into northeastern allied with Cortés, eager to throw off the harsh rule imposed by their conquistadors asked the
tions of two sacred Maya Guatemala. Some continued to Belize, later making their way north along overlords. Many Aztecs died of smallpox introduced by the Spanish, and natives what they called
books, the Popul Vuh the coast and into northern Yucatán, where they settled at the abandoned by the time they resolved to make war against Cortés and their subjects, their land. The response
and Chilam Balam of Uucil-abnal around AD 1220. The Itzá leader styled himself Kukulcán (the they found themselves outnumbered and were defeated, though not with- was ‘Yucatán’ –
Chumayel. Maya name for Quetzalcóatl), as had the city’s Toltec founder, and recy- out putting up a tremendous fight. Maya for ‘We don’t
cled lots of other Toltec lore as well. The Itzáes strengthened the belief in Cortés then conquered central Mexico, after which he turned his atten- understand you.’
the sacred nature of cenotes (the natural limestone sinkholes that provided tions to the Yucatán.

late 15th century 1492 1519–21 1527 1530–1821 1542

The beginning of the end of Spanish arrive in the Caribbean, Hernán Cortés, first landing on Francisco de Montejo and The encomienda system is put in Francisco de Montejo (the
the Post-Classic period. The settling momentarily on His- Isla Cozumel, begins making his son (the Younger) land in place, basically enslaving the na- Younger) and his cousin (also a
decline of the Maya hits full tilt, pañola and Cuba, but it will be his way along the Gulf Coast Cozumel and then in Xel-Há tive populations, and friars begin Francisco de Montejo) avenges
as fractious city-states replace several hundred years before toward central Mexico, home of with the idea of conquering the to convert the population in his father’s legacy, establishing
Mayapán rule. Until the coming they truly ‘conquer’ the region. the Aztec empire. He captures region. Eventually they return earnest. The Maya blend Christian the colonial capital at Mérida
of the conquistadors, northern European diseases will eventu- the Aztec ruler Moctezuma II to Mexico City in defeat. teachings with their own beliefs, upon the ruins of the Maya city
Yucatán is riddled with battles ally kill 90% of Native American and conquers Tenochtitlán. creating a unique belief system. of T’ho.
and power struggles. inhabitants.
 34 H I S T O R Y • • C o n q u e s t & t h e C o l o n i a l Pe r i o d ( 1 5 3 0 – 1 8 2 1 ) lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com HISTORY •• Independence for Some 35

CONQUEST & THE COLONIAL PERIOD (1530–1821)

Francisco de Montejo Sr & Jr FRIAR DIEGO DE LANDA
Despite political infighting among the Yucatecan Maya, conquest by the The Maya recorded information about their history, customs and ceremonies in beautifully painted
Spaniards was not easy. The Spanish monarch commissioned Francisco de picture books made of beaten-bark paper coated with fine lime plaster. These codices, as they
Montejo (El Adelantado, or the Pioneer) with the task, and he set out from are known, must have numbered in the hundreds when the conquistadors and missionary friars
Spain in 1527 accompanied by his son, also named Francisco de Montejo first arrived in the Maya lands. But because the ancient rites of the Maya were seen as a threat
(El Mozo, or the Lad) and a band of men. Landing first at Cozumel, then to the adoption and retention of Christianity, the priceless books were set aflame upon the or-
at Xel-Há on the mainland, the Montejos discovered that the local people ders of the Franciscans. Only four of the painted books survive today, but these provide much
wanted nothing to do with them. insight into ancient Maya life.
When the indigenous The father-and-son team then sailed around the peninsula, conquered Among those Franciscans directly responsible for the burning of the Maya books was the
Xiú leader was baptized, Tabasco (1530) and established their base near Campeche, which could inquisitor Friar Diego de Landa, who, in July of 1562 at Maní (near present-day Ticul), ordered
he was made to take a easily be supplied with provisions, arms and troops from central Mexico. the destruction of 27 ‘hieroglyphic rolls’ and 5000 idols. He also had a few Maya burned to
Christian name, so he They pushed inland to conquer, but after four long, difficult years they were death for good measure.
chose what must have forced to return to Mexico City in defeat. Though despised by the Maya for destroying their cultural records, it was Friar de Landa who
appeared to him to be The younger Montejo took up the cause again, with his father’s support, wrote the most important existing book on Maya customs and practices – the source for much
the most popular name and in 1540 returned to Campeche with his cousin named…Francisco de of what we know about the Maya. Recalled to Spain for displaying a degree of zeal that even the
of the entire 16th Montejo. The two Montejos pressed inland with speed and success, allying clerical authorities found unwarranted, he was put on trial for his excesses. He was ordered to
century – and became themselves with the Xiú against the Cocomes, defeating the Cocomes and jot down everything he knew about the Maya. These scribblings resulted in a book, Relación de
Francisco de Montejo Xiú. converting the Xiú to Christianity. las Cosas de Yucatán (An Account of the Things of Yucatán), which covers virtually every aspect
The Montejos founded Mérida in 1542 and within four years subjugated of Maya life as it was in the 1560s, from Maya houses, food, drink, and wedding and funeral
almost all of Yucatán to Spanish rule. The once proud and independent Maya customs, to the calendar and the counting system.
became peons, working for Spanish masters without hope of deliverance
except in heaven. The conquerors’ attitude toward the indigenous peoples
is graphically depicted in the reliefs on the façade of the Montejo mansion people of mixed Spanish and indigenous blood; and at the bottom were the
in Mérida: in one scene, armor-clad conquistadors are shown with their feet pure-race indigenous people and blacks. Only the native Spaniards had real
holding down ugly, hairy, club-wielding savages. power – a fact deeply resented by the criollos.
The Maya lands were divided into large fiefdoms of sorts, called en- The harshness of Spanish rule resulted in frequent revolts, none of them Of the illustrated Maya
comiendas, and the Maya living on the lands were mercilessly exploited by successful for long. In 1810 the disgruntled criollo priest Miguel Hidalgo books called codices, only
the landowning encomenderos. ‘They inflicted outrageous cruelty on the y Costilla delivered his legendary grito de Dolores, a cry for independence, four survive to the present
Indians, cutting off their noses, arms and legs; they cut the breasts off the from his church near Guanajuato, inciting his parishioners to revolt. With day: the Dresden Codex,
women and threw them into deep lagoons with gourds tied to their feet,’ his lieutenant, a mestizo priest named José María Morelos, he brought large Madrid Codex, Paris Codex
wrote Friar Diego de Landa in An Account of the Things of Yucatán. ‘They areas of central Mexico under his control. But this rebellion, like earlier ones, and Grolier Codex.
wounded children with spearthrusts because they could not walk as fast as failed. The power of Spain was too great.
their mothers.’ When Napoleon deposed Spain’s King Ferdinand VII and put his brother
With the coming of Dominican Friar Bartolomé de Las Casas and groups Joseph Bonaparte on the throne of Spain in 1808, criollos in many New
of Franciscan and Augustinian friars, things improved a little for the Maya. World colonies took the opportunity to rise in revolt. By 1821 both Mexico
In many cases the clergymen were able to protect the local people from the and Guatemala had proclaimed their independence. The state of Yucatán,
worst abuses, but exploitation was still the general rule. which at that time encompassed the entire peninsula, joined the Mexican
union that same year.
INDEPENDENCE FOR SOME Though independence brought new prosperity to the criollos, it wors-
During the colonial period Spain’s New World was a highly stratified society. ened the lot of the Maya. The end of Spanish rule meant that the Crown’s
Native Spaniards were at the very top; next were the criollos, people born in few liberal safeguards, which had afforded the Maya minimal protection
the New World of Spanish stock; below them were the mestizos or ladinos, from the most extreme forms of exploitation, were abandoned. Maya

1562 1810–21 1847–48 1850–93 1876–1911 1901

Franciscan Friar Diego de Landa The beginning of the War of The War of the Castes erupts. An independent Maya republic The porfiriato – the name given The Mexican army under
orders the destruction of 27 Independence from Spain. The The Maya are whipped pretty is established with its capital to the era of Porfirio Díaz’ 35- Porfirio Díaz recaptures the
codices and more than 5000 state of Yucatán joins the newly solidly at first, retreating to at Chan Santa Cruz. The war year rule as president-dictator, Maya-controlled territory,
idols in Maní, essentially cut- independent Mexican republic. Quintana Roo. They will con- wages on, with the Maya (get- preceding the Mexican Revolu- executing many Maya leaders
ting the historic record of the The Maya remain a subjugated tinue to revolt for another 100 ting arms from the British) win- tion. Under Díaz, the country is and destroying the shrine of
Maya by the root. people. Yucatán will declare years, though an official sur- ning key victories. Britain stops brought into the industrial age. the talking cross in Chan Santa
independence from Mexico in render is signed in 1936. arming the Indians in 1893. Cruz. Guerrilla raids continue
1841. for more than 20 years.
 36 HISTORY •• War of the Castes lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com H I S T O R Y • • T h e O i l B o o m & B u s t a n d R e c e n t T re n d s 37

claims to ancestral lands were largely ignored and huge plantations were
created for the cultivation of tobacco, sugarcane and henequen (a plant THE TALKING CROSS & THE WAR OF THE CASTES
yielding rope fiber). The Maya, though legally free, were enslaved by After criollo forces managed to get the upper hand against Maya rebels, the counterattack against
peonage to the great landowners. the Maya was without quarter and vicious in the extreme. Between 1848 and 1855 the indigenous
population of Yucatán was halved. Some Maya combatants sought refuge in the jungles of what
The Caste War of Yucatán, WAR OF THE CASTES is now southern Quintana Roo. There, they were inspired to continue fighting by a religious
by Nelson Reed, is a Beginnings leader working with a ventriloquist, who, in 1850 at Chan Santa Cruz, made a sacred cross ‘talk’
page-turning account Just 20 years after independence Yucatán’s local government voted to break (the cross was an important Maya religious symbol long before the coming of Christianity). The
of the modern Maya’s away from the union. Mexican president Santa Anna sent in troops in talking cross convinced the Maya that their gods had made them invincible, and they continued
insurrection against 1843 but Yucatán’s forces managed to stave them off. Economic isolation to fight, overwhelming the Mexican garrison in Bacalar’s San Felipe fortress in 1858. By about
the criollo elite and the proved to be a more powerful incentive to return to the fold, however, 1866 the governments in Mexico City and Mérida gave up on the area and the British in Belize
establishment of an and a treaty was signed with Mexico that same year. But, charging that recognized the independent Maya republic.
independent state. Mexico had failed to honor promised treaty concessions, Yucatán again Toward the end of the 19th century, Mexican president Porfirio Díaz launched an assault,
declared independence in 1846. sending troops with modern weapons to fight the rebels, who stood in the way of his plans to
For the Yucatec Maya, independence from Mexico made little difference – exploit the region’s chicle and hardwoods, and to cultivate sugarcane. In June 1901 the last of
they remained subordinate to a white elite – and insurrection was never the rebel chiefs were taken prisoner in Muyil and executed by firing squad in Xcán. The shrine
far off. In January 1847 indigenous rebels attacked Valladolid, rampag- of the talking cross at Chan Santa Cruz was destroyed, and the town was renamed Felipe Carrillo
ing through the city in an orgy of killing and looting. Now alerted, the Puerto. But the local Maya continued to harass and interdict the Mexicans guerrilla-style for
Hispanic authorities caught a Maya batab (community leader) with a letter decades. An official, negotiated surrender was signed in 1936, but even then many refused to
detailing a plot to attack the town of Tihosuco (in present-day Quintana recognize the document signed by representatives they considered traitors. Incidents of resist-
Roo). He was shot at Valladolid. Undaunted, the plotters attacked the town ance, though very few, continued into the 1950s. Today, if you visit Felipe Carrillo Puerto, you
of Tepich, south of Tihosuco, killing several criollo families. Thus began the can visit the restored shrine of the talking cross (p136) above a dried-up cenote in what is now
War of the Castes, which the rebels next took to Tihosuco. Supplied with a city park, though the local Maya are very protective of it.
arms and ammunition by the British through Belize, they spread relent-
lessly across the Yucatán, and in March 1848 the rebels took Valladolid.
In little more than a year, the Maya revolutionaries had driven their op- In the Yucatán, enormous fortunes were made by the owners of haci-
pressors from every part of the Yucatán except Mérida and the walled city endas producing henequen, then a lucrative plant for making into rope,
of Campeche. But then the rebels suddenly abandoned the attack and went twine and other products. (For a description of this spiky plant and its
One of the forgotten home to plant the corn they would need to carry on the fight. This gave cultivation, see boxed text, p181.)
victims of the Caste War the criollos and mestizos time to regroup. Yucatán’s governor appealed Díaz was brought down by the Mexican Revolution, which erupted in
is the Maya calendar: to England, Spain and the USA for protection from the indigenous rebels 1910 and plunged the country into chaos for the next 10 years. In the
shamans were too busy in exchange for annexation to any of those countries. Finally Yucatán decades following the revolution, agrarian reforms redistributed much of
with war to keep track rejoined the Mexican union, receiving aid from its former adversary and the peninsula’s agricultural land, including many of the haciendas, into
of the days, thus losing regaining the upper hand against the insurgents. the hands of peasant cooperatives called ejidos.
count. Luckily, priests in
the Guatemalan high- REVOLUTION, ROPE & REFORM THE OIL BOOM & BUST AND RECENT TRENDS
lands still maintain an Porfirio Díaz, who definitively reclaimed current-day Quintana Roo for In the 1970s an Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries (OPEC)
accurate Maya calendar. Mexico, ruled the country from 1876 to 1911 as a dictator, banning politi- embargo sent world oil prices soaring, around the same time that vast oil
cal opposition and free press. During this period, known as the porfiriato, reserves were discovered in the Gulf of Mexico. Suddenly, Mexico became
Díaz brought the country into the industrial age, and passed laws that the darling of international investors who loaned the country billions of
created an even larger class of landless peasants and concentrated wealth dollars to fuel an economic boom. With its newly borrowed wealth, the
in the hands of an ever-smaller elite. country invested heavily in infrastructure, including the installation of the

1910–20 1970s 1994 1994 2000–1 2005

Almost two million people die Mexico experiences an oil The North American Free Trade The Zapatista uprising starts in Vicente Fox of the Partido de Hurricane Wilma, the largest
and the economy is shattered boom, and widespread extrac- Agreement comes into effect, Chiapas when the rebels take Acción Nacional (PAN) party is Atlantic hurricane on record,
during the Mexican Revolution. tion and exploration begins in and the cultural map of the over San Cristobal de Las Casas. elected president of Mexico, blows into town. It does wide-
Eventual agrarian reform gives the Gulf, while environmental Yucatán begins to shift. Lured by They later retreat, but continue ending seven decades of auto- scale damage to the tourist
much of the Yucatán back to problems go widely unchecked. jobs in maquiladoras (for-export to fight, declaring their aim cratic rule by the Partido Rev- centers of Cancún, Cozumel,
peasant cooperatives called Over in Quintana Roo another factories) and tourist towns like of overturning the oligarchy’s olucionario Institucional (PRI). Isla Mujeres and Isla Holbox,
ejidos. boom is taking hold, with the Cancún, peasants begin an exo- centuries-old hold on land, Yucatán follows suit, electing causing M$20 billion in damage
development of Cancún. dus from the countryside. resources and power. PAN governor Patricio Patrón. to Cancún alone.
 38 H I S T O R Y • • T h e O i l B o o m & B u s t a n d R e c e n t T re n d s lonelyplanet.com 39

The website of the Foun- Cantarell complex in the Bay of Campeche, which by 1981 was producing
dation for the Advance- over a million barrels of crude a day.
ment of Mesoamerican But just as suddenly a world oil glut caused prices to drop in 1982, lead-
Studies (www.famsi ing to a serious debt crisis. As a result, the government restructured the
.org) contains numerous legal framework of the ejido system to allow outside investment as well as
resources for broadening privatization and sales of cooperative land.
your understanding of During the 1970s window of prosperity, investment also poured into
Maya history. Quintana Roo for the development of a resort at Cancún, igniting the penin-
sula’s tourism industry and radically transforming the economic panorama.
As tourism grew, many of the region’s Maya left their villages to find work
in Cancún, Cozumel, Playa del Carmen and other tourist haunts, usually
as service personnel or in construction. The rise of tourism is thought by
many scholars to be the single greatest threat to the culture and language
of the Maya.

2006 2007 2012

The PAN party’s Felipe Cal- Hurricane Dean rolls over the The end of the universe. On
derón Hinojosa holds off leftist peninsula, leveling the Quin- December 23, 2012, the Maya
Manuel López Obrador in the tana Roo town of Mahahual long-count reaches comple-
2006 election. The much- and causing heavy damage in tion, signaling the end of this
disputed results kick off wide- Chetumal. Over in Tabasco and universe, according to Maya
spread protests, with Obrador Chiapas another storm rumbles cosmology.
going as far as setting up an through, flooding nearly 80%
alternative government. of Tabasco.
38 39

The Culture
REGIONAL IDENTITY
Culture is an ever-evolving monster, and the regional identity of the Yucatán
is arguably changing faster today than it ever has in its history. The erosion
of Maya culture, migration to large cities and tourist draws by the landed
elite and destitutely poor alike, and the ever-pervasive influence of Mexico’s
neighbors to the north are morphing and distorting the cultural zeitgeist,
creating a new paradigm for a region with a growing identity crisis. In The Modern Maya:
Travelers often comment on the open, gentle and gregarious nature of A Culture in Transition,
the people of the Yucatán, especially the Yucatecan Maya. Here more than Macduff Everton docu-
elsewhere in Mexico, it seems, you find a willingness to converse, a genu- ments this period among
ine interest in outsiders, while the obsequious attitude often encountered the Yucatecan Maya with
elsewhere in the country is absent. This openness is all the more remarkable superb black-and-white
when you consider that the people of the Yucatán Peninsula have fended off photos, while reflect-
domination by outsiders for so long – a situation that persists today. The best ing on the impact of
land is owned or purchased by gringos, chilangos (natives of Mexico City) or modern influences on this
criollos (people of Spanish descent) and, with few exceptions, those filling resilient culture.
the desirable jobs and making infrastructure decisions are not Maya.
And with the tourist industry fast becoming the king-maker in the re-
gion, Maya culture seems to evaporate faster and faster as the Maya people
abandon their language and traditions (highly rooted in an agrarian way
of life) and head to Cancún or Playa del Carmen to work as busboys and
waiters, maids and construction workers. But survival has always been at a
premium here, and the Maya (and the rest of the region’s poor) are finding
ways to survive, be it by moving to the US to work, or by simply moving to
Mérida to work in the maquiladoras (export-only factories paying workers
around M$40 per day) during the week, only making it home to family (the
true heart and soul of Mexican culture) on the weekends. This increased To learn more about the
isolation from the essential and fundamental Mexican element la familia culture and attractions of
(the family) is leading to increases in modern-day ailments like the dreaded Chiapas, head to www
‘Ds’: divorce and depression (and maybe even desolation, if we must continue .travelchiapas.com.
this nasty alliteration).
But beyond this distinct history, and the modern-day challenges facing
the region, the people of the Yucatán seem to share many cultural traits with
other Mexicans. That is to say, despite the winds of progress and moderniza-
tion, many of the age-old traditions still remain. Like their compatriots in
Oaxaca, Chihuahua or Mexico City, they highly value family bonds, and are
only truly themselves within the context of the family. Though they are hard-
working people, the people of the region still like to enjoy leisure pursuits
to the fullest, and there’s never a shortage of fiestas and fun. Yucatecans
are also deeply religious, though their faith is a mélange of pre-Hispanic
beliefs and Catholicism. As elsewhere, traditional gender roles may seem
exaggerated to the outsider, though the level of machismo on the peninsula
is somewhat less pronounced.

MIND YOUR MANNERS

Some indigenous people adopt a cool attitude toward visitors: they have come to mistrust out-
siders after five centuries of rough treatment. They don’t like being gawked at by tourists and
can be very sensitive about cameras. Ask first if you have any doubt at all about whether it’s
OK to take a photo.
 40 T H E C U LT U R E • • L i fe s t y l e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • R e l i g i o n 41

LIFESTYLE
Perhaps more than elsewhere in Mexico, ancient rhythms and customs form TONGUE TWISTERS: A DIFFICULT DECISION
part of everyday life in the Yucatán. In rural areas this is apparent on the While Lonely Planet tries its darndest to keep up with linguistic trends, we’ve decided (purposely)
surface level. Women wear colorfully embroidered, loose-fitting huipiles to skip the latest trend in Maya orthography: adding a comma to indicate a glottal stop. The
(woven tunics) as they slap out tortillas in the yard; people live in traditional comma was adopted by Maya linguists and historians in 1989 as a vehicle to standardize and
oval thatched houses, rest in hammocks after a day’s work, and consume a legitimize the language. The Maya glottal stop (most often used between two vowels) closely
diet of corn, beans and chilies. See ‘Understanding the Modern Maya’ (p178) resembles the cockney double ‘t,’ as used in the English pronunciation of bottle. Thus, if we
and ‘Indigenous Peoples of Chiapas’ (p244) for more details on the modern were following the new system, Tikal would be spelled Tik’al, and Chichén Itzá would be spelled
indigenous lifestyle. Chich’en Itza. It was a tough decision, but in the end we decided to balance out the needs of
Mesoweb (www.meso Various forms of Maya are widely spoken, pre-Hispanic religious rituals travelers (signs have yet to be converted to the new orthography) with the need to accurately
web.com), Maya Explo- are still observed and forms of social organization followed. In some parts document language. (See p288 for more on the Maya language.)
ration Center (www of the region, Maya languages prevail over Spanish, or Spanish may not be
.mayaexploration.org) spoken at all. More than 30 Maya dialects exist, spoken by up to three million
and goMaya (www people in southern Mexico and northern Central America. Yucatecan Maya the Venados de Mérida, but they moved to Guanajuato back in 2005, leaving
.gomaya.com) are all is the dialect spoken on the Yucatán Peninsula; some words and phrases ap- the rest of the peninsula with a mix of second- and third-division teams, such
fabulous resources on the pear on p288. Eight Maya languages are spoken in Chiapas. Tzeltal, Tzotzil as the Itzáes of Yucatán, Inter Playa del Carmen, Mérida FC, Corsarios de
Maya, past and present. and Chol are the most widely used, and the later is believed to most closely Campeche, Huracánes de Cozumel and Club Deportivo de Chetumal. The
resemble the one spoken by the Classic Maya. season is divided into two big tournaments: Torneo de Apertura (August
Many youngsters are now choosing to leave their rural roots, heading to to December) and Torneo de Clausura (January to May). Games are played
the maquiladoras of Mérida, to the megaresorts of Quintana Roo or even to over the weekend; check newspapers for details.
the US. Rather than study Yucatec, many prefer to learn English. But still, Béisbol (baseball) is popular in Mexico. The level of professional play is Mexico Online (www
there remains a broad, ubiquitous undercurrent of pride in Maya culture: a quite high, equivalent at least to AAA ball in the USA. The Mexican League .mexonline.com) has
hopeful sign that the culture will abide. season runs from late March to July; among its teams are the Piratas de good history and culture
Campeche (Campeche Pirates), Olmecas de Tabasco (Tabasco Olmecs) and links, and lots of other
POPULATION Leones de Yucatán (Mérida Lions), which won the national championship information.
For more than a millennium the Maya of the Yucatán have intermarried with in 2006.
neighboring and invading peoples. Most of Mexico’s population is mestizo Yucatecans are also passionate about bullfights and charreadas (simi-
(mixture of indigenous and Spanish blood), but the Yucatán has an especially lar to rodeos). These events are staples of ferias (country fairs) around
high proportion of pure-blooded Maya, about four times the national average. the peninsula.
There are around 1.5 million Maya in southern Mexico, with about 900,000
Yucatec speakers. Yucatán state, with a 59% Maya population, has the highest RELIGION
percentage of indigenous people of any of Mexico’s 31 states. Among the region’s indigenous populations, ancient Maya beliefs blend Crosses adorned with
There are 3.7 million people living in the peninsular states. Quintana Roo and mix nearly seamlessly with contemporary Christian traditions, the huipiles (woven tunics)
is the fastest growing of the three, with a 4.7% growth rate. Campeche and values and rituals of the two religions being remarkably similar. Mestizos are found throughout the
Yucatán ring in with 1.6% growth each. and criollos are more likely to follow strict Catholic doctrine. And here, like peninsula, and are often
nearly everywhere else in Latin America, Catholicism is fast losing ground associated with the cult of
SPORTS to evangelical sects. the speaking cross.
As elsewhere in Mexico, futbol (soccer) dominates schoolyards and playing
fields around the peninsula. Fans are customarily glued to their TV sets to The Ancient Maya
watch televised matches between Mexico’s top teams, such as Guadalajara’s WORLD-TREE & XIBALBÁ
Chivas or Mexico City’s Águilas. The region finally got a first-division team For the Maya, the world, the heavens and the mysterious ‘unseen world’ or
in 2007 when Atlante moved to Cancún. The other ‘big’ club in the area was underworld, called Xibalbá (shi-bahl-bah), were all one great, unified struc-
ture that operated according to laws of astrology and ancestor worship. The
towering ceiba tree was considered sacred. It symbolized the Wakah-Chan In a visit to the church at
THE BALL GAME (Yaxché, or World-Tree), which united the 13 heavens, the surface of the the Tzotzil village of San
Probably all pre-Hispanic Mexican cultures played some version of the Mesoamerican ritual ball earth and the nine levels of the underworld of Xibalbá. The World-Tree had Juan Chamula, you may
game, the world’s first-ever team sport. The game varied from place to place and era to era, but a sort of cruciform shape and was associated with the color blue-green. In see chanting curanderos
had certain lasting features. Over 500 ball courts have survived at archaeological sites around the 16th century the Franciscan friars required the indigenous population to (healers) carrying out
Mexico and Central America. The game seems to have been played between two teams, and its venerate the cross; this Christian symbolism meshed easily with established shamanic rites.
essence was to keep a rubber ball off the ground by flicking it with hips, thighs, knees or elbows. Maya beliefs.
The vertical or sloping walls alongside the courts were most likely part of the playing area. The
game had (at least sometimes) deep religious significance, serving as an oracle, with the result POINTS OF THE COMPASS
indicating which of two courses of action should be taken. Games could be followed by the In Maya cosmology, each point of the compass had special religious signifi-
sacrifice of one or more of the players – whether winners or losers, no one is sure. cance. East was most important, as it was where the sun was reborn each day;
its color was red. West was black because it was where the sun disappeared.
 42 T H E C U LT U R E • • R e l i g i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • T h e C e l e s t i a l P l a n 43

Lavishly illustrated North was white and was the direction from which the all-important rains
with sections of friezes, came, beginning in May. South was yellow because it was the sunniest point THE CELESTIAL PLAN
sculpted figurines, and of the compass. The ancient Maya were essentially spiritual timekeepers, counting the ticks of the day as they
painted pottery and other Everything in the Maya world was seen in relation to these cardinal points, moved toward the end of the universe on December 23, 2012. Every major work of Maya ar-
fine specimens of Maya with the World-Tree at the center, and they were the base for the all-important chitecture had a celestial plan. Temples were aligned so as to enhance celestial observation of
art, The Blood of Kings, astronomical and astrological observations that determined fate. the sun, moon, certain stars or planets, especially Venus. The alignment might not be apparent
by Linda Schele and Mary except at certain conjunctions of the celestial bodies (eg an eclipse), but the Maya knew each
Ellen Miller, deciphers BLOODLETTING building was properly ‘placed’ and that this enhanced its sacred character.
glyphs and pictographs Just as the great cosmic dragon shed its blood, which fell to the earth as rain, Temples usually had other features that linked them to the stars. The doors and windows
on these objects to elicit so humans had to shed blood to link themselves with Xibalbá. might frame a celestial body at an exact point in its course on a certain day of a certain year.
recurring themes of As illustrated in various Maya stone carvings and painted pottery, the This is the case with the Palacio del Gobernador (Governor’s Palace) at Uxmal, which is aligned
Classic Maya civilization. nobility customarily drew their own blood on special occasions, such as royal in such a way that, from the main doorway, Venus would have been visible exactly on top of a
births or deaths, crop plantings, victories on the battlefield or accession to the small mound some 3.5km away, in the year AD 750. At Chichén Itzá, the observatory building
throne. Blood represented royal lineage (as it does in other societies), and so called El Caracol was aligned in order to sight Venus exactly in the year AD 1000.
the blood of kings granted legitimacy to these events. Often using the spine Furthermore, the main door to a temple might be decorated to resemble a huge mouth,
of a manta ray as a lancet, a noble would pierce his cheek, lower lip, tongue signifying entry to Xibalbá (the secret world or underworld; p41). Other features might relate to
or genitalia and pull a piece of rope or straw through the resulting orifice to the numbers of the calendar round, as at Chichén Itzá’s El Castillo. This pyramid has 364 stairs to
extract the sacred substance. Performed for lower-ranking members of the the top; with the top platform, this makes 365, the number of days in the Maya vague year. (The
nobility or occasionally before dumbstruck commoners, the excruciating vague year corresponds to our 365-day solar year, with the difference that it is not adjusted every
ritual served not only to sanctify the event but to appease the gods, as well four years by adding an additional day. Therefore, the seasons do not occur at the same time each
as to communicate with them through the hallucinogenic visions that often year but vary slightly from year to year. For that reason, the Maya solar year is characterized as
The Maya developed two resulted from such self-mutilation. ‘vague.’) On the sides of the pyramid are 52 panels, signifying the 52-year cycle of the calendar
separate calendars (see When the Christian friars said that the blood of Jesus had been spilled for round. The terraces on each side of each stairway total 18 (nine on either side), signifying the
boxed text, opposite), the common people, the Maya could easily understand the symbolism. 18 ‘months’ of the solar vague year. The alignment of El Castillo catches the sun and makes a
one of 260 days, the shadow of the sacred sky-serpent ascending or descending the side of El Castillo’s staircase on
second a 365-day cycle SACRED PLACES the vernal and autumnal equinoxes (March 20 to 21 and September 21 to 22) each year.
that corresponds to the Maya ceremonies were performed in natural sacred places as well as in As the Maya civilization flourished, more elaborate temples were built atop smaller, older
solar year. The two cycles their man-made equivalents. Mountains, caves, lakes, cenotes (limestone ones (see opposite).
match up every 52 years, sinkholes), rivers and fields were all sacred, and had special importance
a period referred to as the in the scheme of things. Pyramids and temples were thought of as stylized
Long Count. mountains; sometimes they had secret chambers within them, like the caves 260-day Calendar

in a mountain. A cave was the mouth of the creature that represented Xibalbá, (Sacred Round) The Mayan Calendar System

Manik
Cimi
Chic

La
and to enter it was to enter the spirit of the secret world. This is why some

m
cha

at
Signs for the months
Maya temples have doorways surrounded by huge masks: as you enter the

M
Ka

ul
n
door of this ‘cave,’ you are entering the mouth of Xibalbá.

uc
Ak
The plazas around which the pyramids were placed symbolized the open ba
l Oc
fields or the flat land of the tropical forest. What we call stelae were to the Pop Uo Zip Zotz Tzec
Maya ‘tree-stones’; that is, tree-effigies echoing the sacredness of the World-
Ik
Tree. These tree-stones were often carved with the figures of great Maya Chuen

kings, for the king was the World-Tree of Maya society. Xul Yakxin Mol Chen Yax
As these places were sacred, it made sense for succeeding Maya kings to Imix Eb
build new and ever grander temples directly over older temples, enhancing
u Zac Ceh Mac Kankin Muan
Aha
n
Be

SWEATING OUT THOSE EVIL SPIRITS IN A MAYA TEMESCAL ac

u
Ca

Ix
The sweat lodge has always been a cornerstone of indigenous American spiritual life. The Maya, b

n
’na

Pax Kayab Cumku Uayeb

Me
like their brothers to the north, were no different, using the temescal for both ceremonial and
Caban
Etz

Cib
curative purposes. Part of 365-day Calendar
The word temescal derives from the Aztec word teme (to bathe) and calli (house). The Maya (Secular Calendar)
people used these bathhouses not just to keep clean, but also to heal any number of ailments.
Most scholars say they were most likely used during childbirth as well. Large bath complexes
have been discovered at several Maya archaeological sites. Ironically, the hygienically suspect 4 Uayeb Seating
2 Uayeb 3 Uayeb 1 Pop 2 Pop 3 Pop 4 Pop
conquistadors considered the temescales dirty places and strongholds of sin. To this day, they of Pop 5 Pop 6 Pop 7 Pop 8 Pop
are used by the Maya (and tourists) to bathe and keep those evil spirits away.
 44 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 45

the sacred character of the spot. The temple being covered over was preserved
as it remained a sacred artifact. Certain features of these older temples, such THE MAYA ‘BIBLE’: UNRAVELING THE SECRETS OF THE POPOL VUH
as the large masks on the façades, were carefully padded and protected before The history, prophesies, legends and religious rites of the Maya were preserved on painted codices
Ixchel, the moon goddess, the new construction was placed over them. and through oral traditions. Nearly all of these codices were destroyed during the time of the
was the principal female Ancestor worship and genealogy were very important to the Maya, and conquest (only four survive today), effectively cutting the historic record of the Maya. Lucky for
deity of the Maya pan- when they buried a king beneath a pyramid, or a commoner beneath the Mayanologists, the Popul Vuh, known to many as the Maya Bible, recaptured these myths and
theon. Today she is linked floor or courtyard of his or her na (thatched Maya hut), the sacredness of sacred stories.
with the Virgin Mary. the location was increased. The Popol Vuh is said to be written by the Quiché Maya of Guatemala, who had learned Spanish
and the Latin alphabet from the Dominican friars – the text was written in Latin characters rather
ANIMISM & CATHOLICISM than hieroglyphics. The authors showed their book to Francisco Ximénez, a Dominican who lived
The ceiba tree’s cruciform shape was not the only correspondence the Maya and worked in Chichicastenango, in Guatemala, from 1701 to 1703. Friar Ximénez copied the
found between their animist beliefs and Christianity. Both traditional Maya Maya book word for word and then translated it into Spanish. Both his copy and the Spanish
animism and Catholicism have rites of baptism and confession, days of fasting translation survive, but the original has been lost.
and other forms of abstinence, religious partaking of alcoholic beverages, According to the Popol Vuh, the great god K’ucumatz created humankind first from mud. But
burning of incense and the use of altars. these ‘earthlings’ were weak and dissolved in water, so K’ucumatz tried again using wood. The
wood people had no hearts or minds and could not praise their creator, so they were destroyed,
Contemporary Yucatecans all except the monkeys who lived in the forest, who are the descendants of the wood people. The
Today’s Maya identify themselves as Catholic but they practice a Catholicism creator tried once again, this time successfully, using substances recommended by four animals –
that is a fusion of shamanist-animist and Christian ritual. The traditional the gray fox, the coyote, the parrot and the crow. White and yellow corn were ground into meal
religious ways are so important that often a Maya will try to recover from to form the flesh, and stirred into water to make the blood.
Ah Tz’ib are the Maya a malady by seeking the advice of a religious shaman rather than a medical The Popol Vuh legends include some elements that made it easier for the Maya to under-
scribes that wrote the doctor. Use of folk remedies linked with animist tradition is widespread in stand certain aspects of Christian belief, including virgin birth and sacrificial death followed by
sacred texts of the Maya areas. resurrection.
Maya, including the Roman Catholicism accounts for the religious orientation of around
Chilam Balam. H-menob 80% of contemporary Yucatecans, while 11% of the Yucatán’s population
(shamans) and Ah identifies themselves as Protestants or evangelicals. Congregations affiliated Aside from (unsuccessfully) seeking US intervention against the Maya
Tz’ib still practice their with churches such as the Assemblies of God, the Seventh Day Adventists, during the War of the Castes, Justo Sierra O’Reilly is credited with writing
craft throughout the the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints and Jehovah’s Witnesses can what is possibly the first Mexican novel, La Hija del Judio. About the ill-fated
peninsula. also be found in the Yucatán. romance of a Jewish merchant’s daughter in colonial Mexico, this superior
work of fiction was originally published during the 1840s as a series in Sierra’s
Campeche newspaper, El Fénix, and later published in its entirety.
ARTS In more recent times the Yucatecan author Ermilio Abreu Gómez synthe-
The Yucatán’s arts and crafts scene is enormously rich and varied. The sized the peninsula’s Maya heritage in fictional works like the novel Canek:
influence of the Maya or Spanish cultures (or both) appears in almost every History and Legend of a Maya Hero, the story of an indigenous laborer’s
facet of Yucatecan art, from their dance and music to the clothes and hats struggle against injustice.
they wear. Novelist, playwright and art critic Juan García Ponce, who died in 2003, is
perhaps the Yucatán’s best-known modern literary figure. Imagen Primera
Pre-Hispanic Art (First Image) and La Noche (The Night), collections of his short stories, make
The Classic Maya, at their cultural height from about AD 300 to 900, good starting points for exploring the Mérida-born writer’s prolific output.
were perhaps ancient Mexico’s most artistic people. They left countless
beautiful stone sculptures, of complicated design and meaning but pos- Music
sessing an easily appreciated delicacy of touch – a talent also expressed Two styles of music are traditionally associated with the Yucatán: the jarana
in their unique architecture. Subjects are typically rulers, deities and (p46) and trova yucateca.
significant events. A type of festive dance music, a jarana is generally performed by a large Mel Gibson’s Oscar-
ensemble consisting of two trumpets, two clarinets, one trombone, a tenor nominated Apocalypto hit
Literature sax, timbales and a guiro (percussion instrument made from a grooved theaters in 2006, and was
Viva Zapata! (1952) stars Yucatán’s earliest known literary work is the Books of the Chilam Balam of gourd). The music pauses for the singers to deliver bombas – ad-libbed verses, the first major Yucatec-
Anthony Quinn and Mar- Chumayel. Written in Maya after the conquest, it is a compendium of Maya usually with a humorous double meaning, that are aimed at the object of Maya-language film ever.
lon Brando, and traces history, prophecy and mythology collected by priests from the northern their affections. A jarana orchestra always ends its performances with the It was filmed mostly in
the story of the Mexican Yucatán town of Chuyamel. traditional torito, a vivacious song that evokes the fervor of a bullfight. Veracruz.
Revolution. Quinn won an Diego de Landa, the Spanish friar (see boxed text, p35), could be said to A hybrid of Cuban, Spanish, Colombian and homegrown influences,
Oscar for his support- have produced the first literary work in Spanish from the Yucatán, Relación the Yucatecan trova is a catchall term for romantic ballads, Cuban claves,
ing role, while Brando, de las Cosas de Yucatán (An Account of the Things of Yucatán), in which tangos, boleros, Yucatecan folk songs and other tunes that can be strummed
though nominated, was he relates his biased perception of the Maya’s ceremonial festivals, daily life on a guitar by a trovador (troubador). The style is often played by the guitar
left out in the cold. and traditions, even as he engineered their eradication. trios who roam the squares of Mérida, seeking an audience to serenade.
 46 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 47

(The usual serenade consists of five songs.) In any discussion of the trova, against the sun. Most newspaper photographs taken of him showed the
you’re likely to hear the name Guty Cárdenas, nicknamed the ‘Yucatecan larger-than-life figure looking even worldlier in his exotic headgear. Soon
nightingale.’ Cárdenas only recorded for five years during the 1920s, but he’s men around the globe began placing orders for the ‘panama hat.’
Guty Cárdenas, un Siglo been remarkably influential. In a trova, as with jaranas, the subject matter is Panama hats originated in Ecuador and were exported to Panama.
del Ruiseñor, produced by usually a suitor’s paean of love to an unattainable sweetheart. March brings However, at least as early as the 1880s, residents of Bécal in the Mexican
the prestigious Mexican the Festival de Trova Yucateca to Mérida. state of Campeche were producing the same style hat. Today more than a
record label Discos A more contemporary figure of Yucatecan song is Armando Manzanero, thousand people in the small, quiet town of Bécal are still making the hats,
Corasón (www.corason the singer and composer from Mérida. Though Manzanero speaks to an which they variously call panamás or jipijapas (see p214 for details on how
.com), includes a CD and older generation, his songs are still being covered by contemporary pop stars the hats are made).
DVD covering the musical like Luis Miguel and Alejandro Sanz. He is best known for heart-wrenching
career of this seminal boleros, such as ‘Adoro,’ ‘Te Extranõ,’ ‘Contigo Aprendí’ and ‘Somos Novios’ WOODEN CRAFTS
Yucatecan composer/ (a tune that English speakers are more likely to know as ‘It’s Impossible’), In handicrafts shops across the peninsula, you’ll come across beautiful Chloe Sayer’s fascinating
performer. many of which have taken their place in the canon of Mexican standards. wooden crafts, such as carved wooden panels and galleons. Arts and Crafts of Mexico
The ancient Maya made woodcarvings of their many gods, just as traces the evolution of
Dance they carved the images of their deities in stone. The skill and techniques crafts from pre-Hispanic
The Spanish influence on Maya culture is abundantly evident in the jarana, associated with the artistry survive to this day. The wooden panels are times to the present, with
a dance Yucatecans have been performing for centuries. The dance bears often a meter or more in height and feature a strange-looking charac- many fine photos.
more than a passing resemblance to the jota, performed in Spain’s Alto ter of unmistakably Maya imagination – the image will resemble figures
Aragón region. The movements of the dancers, with their torsos held rigid you’ve seen at Maya ruins. If the carved image is one of a heavily adorned
and a formal distance separating men from women, are nearly identical; man raising a chalice, most likely you’re looking at a representation of
however, whereas the Spanish punctuate elegant turns of their wrists with Itzamná, lord of the heavens; he’s a popular figure on the wooden panels
clicks of their castanets, Maya women snap their fingers. of contemporary Maya.
The best place to see dancers perform to the accompaniment of jarana The Maya – so impressed with the Spanish galleons that arrived on their
is at vaquerías – homegrown fiestas held in the atriums of town halls or shores that they made meter-long models of the ships, complete with tiny
on haciendas. The women wear their best embroidered huipiles, flowers in sails – have been making wooden galleons for generations. Today the galleons
their hair and white heels; men wear a simple, white cotton outfit with a red that used to haul cargoes of hardwood back to Europe are gone, but the craft
bandanna tucked into the waist. In Mérida, vaquerías are held weekly in the of galleon model-making is alive and well in the Yucatán. Campeche is the
Plaza de Santa Lucía. state most associated with such items, but they are made by accomplished
artisans in the states of Yucatán and Quintana Roo as well.
Handicrafts
TEXTILES Architecture
The Crafts of Mexico is a Women throughout the Yucatán Peninsula traditionally wear straight, white Maya architecture is amazing for its achievements but perhaps even more
gorgeously illustrated cotton dresses called huipiles, the bodices of which are always embroidered. amazing for what it did not achieve. Maya architects never seem to have
coffee-table volume The tunic generally falls to just below the knee; on formal occasions it is used the true arch (a rounded arch with a keystone), and never thought to
focusing on ceramics and worn with a lacy white underskirt that reaches the ankle. The huipil never put wheels on boxes for use as wagons to move the thousands of tons of
textiles, by Margarita de has a belt, which would defeat its airy, cool design. Light, loose fitting and construction materials needed in their tasks. They had no metal tools – they
Orellana and Albertio Ruy traditionally made of cotton (synthetics are occasionally used today), these were technically a Stone Age culture – yet could build breathtaking temple
Sánchez, editors of the garments are ideally suited for the tropics. Maya women have been wearing complexes and align them so precisely that windows and doors were used
superb magazine Artes huipiles for centuries. as celestial observatories with great accuracy.
de México. Also commonly worn on the peninsula (and similar to the huipil in ap- The arch used in most Maya buildings is the corbeled arch (or, when used
pearance) is the gala terno, which is a straight, white, square-necked dress for an entire room rather than a doorway, corbeled vault). In this technique,
with an embroidered overyoke and hem, worn over an underskirt that sports large flat stones on either side of the opening are set progressively inward as
an embroidered strip near the bottom. It is fancier than a huipil and is often they rise. The two sides nearly meet at the top, and this ‘arch’ is then topped Maya pyramids were
accompanied by a delicately hand-knitted shawl. by capstones. Though they served the purpose, the corbeled arches severely painted in brilliant red,
In addition to huipiles, galas ternos and shawls, Maya women through- limited the amount of open space beneath them. In effect, Maya architects green, yellow and white
out the peninsula are known for weaving lovely sashes, tablecloths were limited to long, narrow vaulted rooms. colors. And the people of
and napkins. The Maya also lacked draft animals (horses, donkeys, mules or oxen). All the region often painted
the work had to be done by humans, on their feet, with their arms and backs, their bodies red.
PANAMA HATS without wagons or even wheelbarrows.
The classic woven straw hat that most people associate with Panama was
made internationally famous in the late 19th century by Ferdinand de MAYA ARCHITECTURE
Lesseps, builder of the Suez Canal and the brains behind the failed French Maya architecture’s 1500-year history saw a fascinating progression of styles.
attempt to build a canal in Panama. Styles changed not just with the times, but with the particular geographic
The much-photographed Lesseps was balding when he arrived in Panama, area of Mesoamerica in which the architects worked. Not all of the styles
and he found that the light but durable hat provided excellent protection can be seen in the Yucatán.
 48 T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com T H E C U LT U R E • • A r t s 49

Late Pre-Classic (100 BC to AD 250) The Río Bec style, epitomized in the richly decorated temples at the ar-
This style is perhaps best exhibited at Uaxactún, north of Tikal in chaeological sites between Escárcega and Chetumal, used lavish decoration,
Guatemala’s Petén department. Uaxactún’s Pyramid E-VII-sub is a fine as in the Puuc and Chenes styles, but added huge towers to the corners of
example of how the architects of what is known as the Chicanel culture its low buildings, just for show. Río Bec buildings look like a combination
designed their pyramid-temples in the time around this period. It’s a square of the Governor’s Palace of Uxmal and Temple I at Tikal.
stepped-platform pyramid with central stairways on each of the four sides,
Joyce Kelly’s An Archaeo- each stairway flanked by large jaguar masks. The entire platform was covered Early Post-Classic (AD 1000–1250)
logical Guide to Mexico’s in a fine white stucco. The top platform is flat and probably bore a temple The collapse of Classic Maya civilization around AD 1000 created a power
Yucatán Peninsula gives na (hut) made of wooden poles topped with a palm thatch. This temple is vacuum that was filled by the invasion of the Toltecs from central Mexico.
visitors both practical and well preserved because others had been built on top of it; the later structures The Toltecs brought with them their own architectural ideas, and in the
background information fell into ruin and were cleared away to reveal E-VII-sub. Similar Chicanel- process of conquest these ideas were assimilated and merged with those of
on 91 sites. style temples were also built at Tikal, El Mirador and Lamanai (in Belize). the Puuc style.
The foremost example of what might be called the Toltec-Maya style
Early Classic (AD 300–600) is Chichén Itzá. Elements of Puuc style – the large masks and decorative
The Esperanza culture typifies this phase. In Esperanza-style temples, the friezes – coexist with Toltec warrior atlantes (male figures used as support-
king was buried in a wooden chamber beneath the main staircase of the ing columns) and chac-mools, odd reclining statues that are purely Toltec
temple; successive kings were buried in similar positions in pyramids built and have nothing to do with Maya art. Platform pyramids with broad bases
on top of the original. and spacious top platforms, such as the Templo de los Guerreros (Temple
Of the surviving early Classic pyramids, perhaps the best example is the of the Warriors), look as though they might have been imported from the
step-pyramid at Acanceh, just south of Mérida. ancient Toltec capital of Tula (near Mexico City) or by way of Teotihuacán,
with its broad-based pyramids of the sun and moon. Because Quetzalcóatl
Late Classic (AD 600–900) was so important to the Toltecs, feathered serpents are used extensively as
The most important Classic sites flourished during the latter part of the architectural decoration.
period. By this time the Maya temple pyramid had a stone building on top,
replacing the na of wooden poles and thatch. Numbers of pyramids were built
Late Post-Classic (AD 1250–1519)
close together, sometimes forming contiguous or even continuous structures.
After the Toltecs came the Cocomes, who established their capital at
Near them, different structures now called palaces were built; they sat on
Mayapán, south of Mérida, and ruled a confederation of Yucatecan states
lower platforms and held many more rooms, perhaps a dozen or more.
during this period. After the golden age of Tikal and Palenque, even after
In addition to pyramids and palaces, Classic sites have carved stelae and
the martial architecture of Chichén Itzá, the architecture of Mayapán is a
round ‘altar-stones’ set in the plaza in front of the pyramids. Another feature
disappointment. The pyramids and temples are small and crude compared
of the Classic and later periods is the ball court, with the sloping playing
with the glorious Classic structures. Mayapán’s only architectural distinc-
surfaces of stone covered in stucco.
tion comes from its vast defensive city wall, one of the few such walls ever
Of all the Classic sites, Tikal in Guatemala is the grandest restored so far.
discovered in a Maya city. The fact that the wall exists testifies to the weak-
Here the pyramids reached their most impressive heights and were topped
ness of the Cocom rulers and the unhappiness of their subject peoples.
by superstructures (called roofcombs by archaeologists) that made them
Tulum, another walled city, is also a product of this time. The columns of The Art of Mesoamerica
even taller. As in earlier times these monumental structures were used as
the Puuc style are used here, and the painted decoration on the temples must by Mary Ellen Miller is
the burial places of kings.
have been colorful. But there is nothing here to rival Classic architecture. an excellent overview
Cobá has the finest architecture of this otherwise decadent period. The of pre-Hispanic art and
Puuc, Chenes & Río Bec (AD 600–800)
stately pyramids here had new little temples built atop them in the style architecture.
Among the most distinctive of the Late Classic Maya architectural styles are
of Tulum.
those that flourished in the western and southern regions of the Yucatán
Peninsula. These styles valued exuberant display and architectural bravado
more than they did proportion and harmony – think of it as Maya baroque. SPANISH COLONIAL ARCHITECTURE
The Puuc style, named for the hills surrounding Uxmal, used facings of The conquistadors and Franciscan and Dominican priests brought with
thin limestone ‘tiles’ to cover the rough stone walls of buildings. The tiles were them the architecture of their native Spain and adapted it to the conditions
worked into geometric designs and stylized figures of monsters and serpents. they met in the Maya lands. Churches in the largest cities were decorated
Minoan-style columns and rows of engaged columns (half-round cylinders with baroque elements, but in general the churches are simple and fortress-
partly embedded in a wall) were also a feature of the style; they were used to like. The exploitation of the Maya by the Spaniards led to frequent rebel-
good effect on façades of buildings at Uxmal and at the Puuc sites of Kabah, lions, and the high stone walls of the churches worked well in protecting
Sayil, Xlapak and Labná. Puuc architects were crazy about Chac, the rain god, the upper classes from the wrath of the indigenous people.
and stuck his grotesque face on every temple. At Kabah, the façade of the As you travel through the region, you’ll see that many churches are
Palacio de los Mascarones (Palace of the Masks) is covered in Chac masks. plain, both inside and out. These crude and simple borrowings from
The Chenes style, prevalent in areas of Campeche south of the Puuc re- Spanish architecture are eclipsed by the richness of the religious pageantry
gion, is similar to the Puuc style, but Chenes architects seem to have enjoyed that takes place inside the buildings – including many half-Maya, half-
putting huge masks as well as smaller ones on their façades. Catholic processions, rituals, decorations and costumes.
 50 lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Staples & Specialties 51

Food & Drink Mauricio Velázquez de León

RECADOS
Recado is the generic name used for the local rubs or marinades that combine dry chilies, spices,
herbs and vinegar, and are applied to meats and poultry. The Mayan called the recados ‘kuux,’
I hope you’re hungry because in the Yucatán Peninsula you are up for a feast. and they are essential to preparing an array of dishes on the peninsula. Not so long ago you
Yucatecos, and other residents of the Yucatán Peninsula, are enormously could find recauderías (spice-paste stores) in most towns and cities. Today this name is only
proud of their history and cultural background, and they will love to share used to designate some market stalls dedicated to selling spices and dry chilies. Some popular
it with you in the form of a rich-red plate of cochinita pibil (pork pibil style), recados are recado blanco (white), which contains oregano, garlic, cloves, cinnamon, salt, pepper
a couple of panuchos (small corn tortillas that puff when heated) and a sip of and sour oranges. It’s also known as recado de puchero because it is used for cooking puchero,
Xtabentún, the so-called liqueur of the gods. The relative geographic isolation a hearty stew of beef or chicken, with chayote, zucchini, sweet potatoes and chickpeas. Recado
from the rest of the country together with a strong Mayan influence have negro (black) contains corn tortillas and local chilies that are burned (hence the color) with an
made la cocina yucateca the Mexican regional cuisine with the most distinc- array of spices. It’s the foundation of one the region’s classic dishes relleno negro, turkey stuffed
tive personality, and as you travel around the region you will find a cuisine with minced pork, dry fruits, tomatoes and epazote, and rubbed with this kind of recado. But
based on ingredients and techniques unheard of anywhere else in Mexico. the most famous recado is recado rojo (red), containing black and red pepper, oregano, cloves,
At first some dishes will resemble specialties that you can find elsewhere in cinnamon, salt, water and the achiote (annatto) seeds that infuse an intense red color and flavor
the country, such as tacos or tamales, but soon you will discover that in the to cochinita pibil (pork pibil style) and other regional favorites. Recado rojo is sometimes simply
Yucatecan kitchen these Mexican-food staples have been transformed with called achiote, but this refers to the prepared paste and not to the achiote flower.
a Mayan and Caribbean flair. Travel further to the south and you’ll cross
another cultural milestone, where the indigenous population in Chiapas
A regular Monday dish in preserves yet a different culinary tradition. in banana leaves. El tamal de boda is made only during weddings, and the
most Yucatecan homes There is a big chance that you landed in this region seduced by the white muc bil pollo is a tamale prepared traditionally during Día de los Muertos
is frijol con puerco, a beaches and crystal-clear waters of Cancún or Playa del Carmen, or to marvel (Day of the Dead; see Celebrations, p53). El brazo de indio (Indian arm) is
Yucatecan version of pork at the architectural and artistic achievements of the Classic Mayan period in a large tamale that can be 28cm long and 10cm wide. It is made by rolling
and beans. Pork cooked ancient cities like Tulum, Uxmal or Chichén Itzá, and there is a reasonable layers of masa and chaya leaves.
with black beans is served chance that you will find places to eat good, and even great, Yucatecan cuisine In the Yucatán some dishes have taken the name of the cities and towns
with rice, and garnished in these locations. But if you are determined to embark on a serious culinary where they were created. Motul is the birthplace of huevos motuleños, the
with radish, cilantro escapade, then you have to visit towns like Valladolid, Motul, Campeche, famous pair of fried eggs topping a tortilla with beans and covered with a
(coriander) and onions. Izamal, Chetumal or Mérida, the peninsula’s eating capital. tomato sauce, chopped cheese and ham, and green peas. The longaniza de
valladolid is a chorizo sausage that has been smoked for up to 12 hours, and
STAPLES & SPECIALTIES the pollo ticuleño was born in the city of Ticul. The chicken is rubbed with
The staples of Mexican food – corn, and an array of dry and fresh chilies recado rojo and cooked with green peas and chile dulce (a local pepper that
and beans – are also basic ingredients on the Yucatecan table. Achiote (the has no heat). It’s served with pickled chilies, potatoes and plantains.
seeds from the annatto flower), epazote (a herb called pigweed or Jerusalem But by far, cochinita pibil is the region’s most famous dish. In Mayan pib
oak in the US), chaya (a shrub also known as tree spinach), cat (a variety of means a hole in the ground, and cooking ‘al pibil’ is a technique that has
cucumber) and the habanero chili are some regional ingredients. Together been used for centuries in this region to cook all kinds of marinated and
with recados (local rubs; see boxed text, opposite), these are the building nonmarinated meats. Originally it was cooked using venison and it was
blocks of la cocina yucateca. known as pibil keh. Today lechón (piglet) is the meat of choice, hence the
In the Yucatán Peninsula you will find an array of typical antojitos using name cochinita, meaning little pig, although many places use meat from
corn as the base. The word antojitos translates as ‘little whims, a sudden crav- adult pigs. It’s prepared by rubbing the meat with recado rojo that has been
ing.’ But as any Mexican will quickly point out, it is not just a snack. They are thinned using the juice of sour oranges. The meat is then wrapped in banana
more like the Spanish tapas. You can have an entire meal of antojitos, or have leaves and cooked underground for as many as eight hours. Most places
a couple as appetizers, or yes, eat one as a tentempíe (quick bite) before hop- cook their cochinita in traditional ovens, with very good results. It is usually
ping on the bus or while standing outside a bar. A classic Yucatecan antojito served shredded and topped with red onions that have been pickled with
is panuchos. Cooks slit the thin layer of the tortilla and spread beans and a orange juice, vinegar and a dash of sugar. You can make tacos de cochinita The strongest demand
slice of hard-boiled egg inside. Lightly fried, it is then topped with meat or pibil with corn tortillas or even use it as a filling for tortas (sandwiches using for habanero chili
shredded poultry or cazón (dogfish) and pickled red onions. In Mayan, kots’ bolillo, a bread that resembles a French roll). Another popular dish using grown in Yucatán comes
refer to small stuffed taquitos, and that is exactly what codzitos are: small fried recado rojo is pavo en escabeche, where turkey is marinated in the recado, from Japan. Japanese
tacos filled with minced pork and topped with tomato sauce. Papadzules are then simmered in water and roasted xcatic chile (a mild local chili similar companies normally buy
tortillas bathed on a pumpkin-seed sauce, filled with chopped hard-boiled to Hungarian wax pepper), and then grilled before serving. Caldo de pavo the chili in its powder
eggs and topped with some drops of pumpkin-seed oil. The peninsula is (turkey soup) is also popular in the region, but sopa de lima is the favorite form and add it to a wide
also distinguished for its variety of tamales. Tamales are made with masa Yucatecan soup. This is a local version of chicken soup using tomatoes, chile variety of spicy snacks.
mixed with lard, stuffed with stewed meat, fish or vegetables, wrapped and dulce, chopped onion, strips of lightly fried tortillas and lime.
steamed. The word comes from the Nahuatl word tamalli and refers to With the Caribbean Sea to the east, the Gulf of Mexico to the west and
anything wrapped up. Tamalitos al vapor are small tamales filled with pork the Pacific Ocean to the south, you can expect an incredible array of fish and
meat and a sauce made with tomatoes, epazote and achiote, and wrapped seafood dishes in the Yucatán Peninsula. Mariscos (shellfish) and pescado
52 FOOD & DRINK •• Drinks lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Celebrations 53

(fish) are prepared a la ajillo (in garlic and guajilllo chili sauce), a la plancha
(grilled) or a la diabla (with garlic, tomato and cascabel chile, a dry mod- LOVE STORY
erately hot chili that has a brownish color). Achiote is also used in dishes According to legend, balché was created as an act of love between a beautiful Mayan girl Sak-
like pampano empapelado (marinated and paper-wrapped pompano), and Nicté (White Flower) and a brave young warrior. As the story goes, the young couple fled their
tikin-xit, fish wrapped in banana leaves and grilled, is a local favorite. Crab tribe when a powerful cacique (indigenous chief ) also declared his love to Sak-Nicté. After days
is famous in the coastal lagoons of the Gulf, such as Celestún and Laguna de of wandering in the Mayan forest, the lovebirds found a honeycomb. Sak-Nicté and the warrior
Términos, and is served in many forms, especially in chilpachole (crab soup had a feast with the sweet honey, and decided to save some inside the trunk of a balché tree.
with epazote, tomatoes and chile chipotle – dried, smoked, jalapenos with a That night brought rain and thunder, and the water blended with the honey inside the tree
smoky, meaty flavor and moderate heat). In Chiapas bosto de sardina (grilled creating a luscious beverage.
sardines wrapped in banana leaves) is a well-known dish. When the cacique found them, he ordered Sak-Nicté to return to her tribe. The young warrior
was devastated and in a desperate attempt to keep her lover at his side, he offered to cook for
DRINKS the cacique a fantastic meal. He accepted and the couple served him a banquet, crowned with
Like elsewhere in Mexico, on the peninsula you will find the popular tequila the sweet drink they had discovered. The cacique was so impressed with the balché that he let
and its cousin mescal. Both spirits are distilled from the agave plant, but the the two lovers go, under the condition that they share with him how to prepare it.
difference is that tequila has to come from blue agave in the central state of
Jalisco, and is protected with a Designation of Origin (DO) by the Consejo
Regulador del Tequila (the Tequila Regulate Council). Cerveza (beer) is (street stalls or small establishments selling all kinds of fresh-squeezed orange,
also widely available, and although you can find all national brands, such tangerine, strawberry, papaya, beet or carrot juices) are widely available. In
as Corona and Dos Equis, two local beers stand out: the lager Montejo and some cases they will serve local fruits, like mangoes, cayumito (a purple plum-
the dark León Negra. The practice of a beer served with a wedge of lime in like fruit), zapote negro (black fruit with a pear-like consistency) and marañón
its mouth is not as common in Mexico as it is in foreign bars, and you will (cashew fruit). Juguerías also sell licuados, a Mexican version of a milkshake
find that establishments that serve lime with your beer would most likely that normally includes banana, milk, honey and fruit. And many serve incred-
offer it on a small plate. ibly creative combinations, such as vanilla, banana and avocado.
Balché is a Mayan spirit that was offered to the gods during special cer- Aguas frescas (fresh drinks made with fruit, herbs or flowers) are stand-
emonies. It is fermented inside the hollow trunk of the balché tree with water ard Mexican refreshments. Some of them resemble iced teas. In agua de
and honey. In Valladolid, during indigenous weddings, the bride is sprayed tamarindo the tamarind pods are boiled and then mixed with sugar before
with balché as a sign of abundance. Balché is not commercially available, but chilled, and the agua de jamaica is made with dried hibiscus leaves. Others
another Mayan spirit, xtabentún, is easy to find in the region. Xtabentún is an like horchata are made with melon seeds and/or rice. Two local favorites
anise-flavored liqueur that, when authentic, is made by fermenting honey. are agua de chia (a plant from the salvia family) that is typical during Holy
Week celebrations in Chiapas, and the leaves from the native shrub chaya
Nonalcoholic are mixed with lime, honey and pineapple to create agua de chaya on the
The great variety of fruits, plants and herbs that grow in the Yucatán Peninsula rest of the peninsula.
are a perfect fit for the kind of nonalcoholic drinks Mexicans love. Juguerías In juguerías you can expect the water to be purified.

CELEBRATIONS
H IS FOR HOT, HABANERO AND HELP! Food and fiestas go hand-in-hand in Mexico. During the spring ch´a chaak
ceremony, which takes place in agricultural villages around the peninsula,
That’s right, the habanero, the hottest chili grown on our planet, finds its home in Yucatán, and
tortillas and turkey are traditionally offered up to the rain gods and then
it is a foundation of its cuisine. Does this mean that everything you’re going to eat will burn
eaten. The tortillas are made into ‘layered cakes,’ with ground squash seeds,
your mouth? Well, no. Despite the fierce reputation of the habanero chili, Yucatecan food is not
beans and other vegetables, wrapped in banana leaves and buried to be
spicy. The habanero is most commonly found in table salsas, and it is up to you how much to
cooked over charcoals. Turkey and other wild game is cooked in kol, a broth
add to the dish. The habanero grown in Yucatán has an international reputation for being a
thickened with masa. The men drink balché.
high-quality pepper with a bright-orange color, and the highest number of Scoville Heat Units
During Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) on 2 November it is tradi-
found in any pepper.
tional in many areas of the peninsula to eat a special tamale called muc bil
This method, developed by American scientist Wilbur Scoville to measure the piquancy in chilies,
pollo. In Mayan mukbil means buried and this is how this tamale is made.
quantifies the amount of the chemical compound capsaicin found in chilies. The habanero can
Corn masa is mixed with beef broth and placed inside a container covered
have between 100,000 and 500,000 units. As a comparison, a jalapeño chili has between 5000
with banana leaves. The masa is stuffed with chicken and pork meat that
and 15,000 units and Hungarian hot paprika between 100 and 500 units.
has been cooked with achiote, chile dulce, epazote, onion and habanero chili,
Now, if a little more of what you can tolerate finds its way into your mouth, this is what you
and it is topped with more banana leaves and tied. The tamale is buried and
need to know: the heat of the habanero is relentless and will spread quickly throughout your
covered with charcoal and sand.
mouth. No matter what your instincts tell you, don’t drink water, and don’t even think about
reaching for that beer. Any liquid will spread the flames deeper into your mouth. Instead, eat
something that will neutralize the capsaicin: bread, beans or rice are good options, but if you
WHERE TO EAT & DRINK
Food on the peninsula is available in many places, whether it be a small
happen to have a chocolate bar with you, eat it. Chocolate is by far the best antidote to cut the
puesto (street or market stall), a simple cafeteria or a fine restaurant. One
burning sensation caused by a hot pepper.
thing you should know, though, is that mealtimes in Mexico are different
54 F O O D & D R I N K • • Ve g e t a r i a n s & Ve g a n s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Words 55

from other countries, and if you’re outside one of the major tourist destina- Useful Phrases
tions, like Cancún, restaurants close early. Desayuno (breakfast) is usually Are you open?
served in restaurants and cafeterias from 8:30am to 11am, and it tends to be ¿Está abierto? e·sta a·byer·to
on the heavy side. Those who have a light breakfast or skipped it altogether Are you serving breakfast/lunch/dinner now?
can have an almuerzo (a type of brunch) for an antojito or another type of ¿Ahora, está sirviendo desayuno/la comida/la cena? a·o·ra e·sta ser·vyen·do de·sa·yoo·no/la
quick bite. Loncherías (places that serve light meals) are good options for an ko·mee·da/la se·na
almuerzo. In Mexico the main meal is the comida. It’s usually served from I’d like to see a menu.
2pm to 4:30pm in homes, restaurants and cafés. Places called fondas are small, Quisiera ver la carta/el menú. kee·sye·ra ver la kar·ta/el me·noo
family-run eateries that serve comida corrida, an inexpensive prix fixe menu Do you have a menu in English?
that includes a soup, rice, main dish, beverage and dessert. In some small ¿Tienen un menú en inglés? te·en·nen oon me·noo en een·gles
towns people will have a merienda, a light snack between the comida and la
I’m a vegetarian.
cena (supper). Dinner is served anytime after 7pm and restaurants in small
Soy vegetariano/a. (m/f ) soy ve·khe·te·rya·no/a
towns won’t remain open beyond 8:30pm or 9pm.
Cantinas are the traditional Mexican watering holes. Until recently, I can’t eat anything with meat or poultry products, including broth.
women, military personnel and children were not allowed in cantinas, and No puedo comer algo de carne o aves, incluyendo caldo. no pwe·do ko·mer al·go de kar·ne o a·ves
some cantinas still have a rusted sign stating this rule. Today everybody is een·kloo·yen·do kal·do
allowed, although the more traditional establishments retain a macho edge. Is it (spicy) hot?
Beer, tequila and cubas (rum and coke) are served at square tables where ¿Es picoso? es pee·ko·so
patrons play dominoes and watch futbol (soccer) games on large TV screens. The check, please.
Cantinas are famous for serving botanas (appetizers). La cuenta, por favor. la kwen·ta por fa·vor

VEGETARIANS & VEGANS Food Glossary

Mexicans think of a vegetarian as a person that doesn’t eat meat, and by MEAT & POULTRY
‘meat’ they mean red meat. Many more have never heard the word veganista, a la parilla a la pa·ree·ya grilled
the Spanish term for vegan. The good news is that almost every city, large a la plancha a la plan·cha pan-broiled
or small, has real vegetarian restaurants, and their popularity is increasing. albóndigas al·bon·dee·gas meatballs
Also, many traditional Mexican and Yucatecan dishes are vegetarian. Be aves a·ves poultry
warned, however, that many dishes are prepared using chicken or beef broth, bistec bis·tek steak
or some kind of animal fat, such as manteca (lard). Most waiters would be borrego bo·re·ga sheep
happy to help you in choosing vegetarian or vegan dishes, but you have to carne (asada) kar·ne (a·sa·da) meat (grilled beef )
make your requirements clear. carne de puerco kar·ne de pwer·ko pork
carne de res kar·ne de res beef
EATING WITH KIDS chicharrones chee·cha·ro·nes deep-fried pork skin
In most restaurants in Mexico you will see entire families and their kids eat- chorizo cho·ree·so Mexican-style sausage made with chili and vinegar
ing together, especially on weekends. Waiters are used to accommodating frijol con puerco fri·khol kon pwer·ko Yucatecan-style pork and beans, topped with a
children and will promptly help you with high chairs (silla para niños or silla sauce made with grilled tomatoes, and decorated
periquera), and in some places they will bring crayons or some other toys to with garnishes; served with rice
keep kids entertained. Across Mexico it’s common to see children having jamón kha·mon ham
dinner in restaurants after 8pm or 9pm. lechón le·chon suckling pig
milanesa mee·la·ne·sa breaded beef cutlet
EAT YOUR WORDS pavo pa·vo turkey
For non-Spanish speakers, travel and dining on the Caribbean coast usu- pibil pee·beel meat wrapped in banana leaves, flavored with
ally pose no problem; English is understood almost everywhere. However,
achiote, garlic, sour orange, salt and pepper, and
once you leave the tourist bubble, a few words in Spanish will go a long
baked in a pit oven; the two main varieties are
way, and at the same time indicate a respect for the Yucatecans and
cochinita pibil (suckling pig) and pollo pibil (chicken)
their culture.
picadillo pee·ka·dee·yo a ground beef filling that often includes fruit and nuts
poc-chuc pok·chook tender pork strips marinated in sour orange juice,
TIPPING & TAXES grilled and served topped with a spicy onion relish
A mandatory impuesto de valor agregado (IVA, or value-added tax; 15%) is added to restaurant pollo po·yo chicken
checks in Mexico, but the propina (gratuity) is not. The average tip is 15% to 20%, and although puchero pu·che·ro a stew of pork, chicken, carrots, squash, potatoes,
some people argue that the tip should be calculated before IVA, it’s just easier to tip the same plantains and chayote (vegetable pear), spiced with
amount, or a bit more, than the amount marked for the IVA. For instance, in a check that marks radish, fresh cilantro and sour orange
IVA $82 pesos, a tip between 80 and 100 pesos would be appropriate. tocino to·see·no bacon
venado ve·na·do venison, a popular traditional dish
56 FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Words lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com FOOD & DRINK •• Eat Your Words 57

SEAFOOD DESSERTS
calamar ka·la·mar squid helado e·la·do ice cream
camarones ka·ma·ro·nes shrimp nieve nye·ve sorbet
cangrejo kan·gre·kho large crab paleta pa·le·ta popsicle
ceviche se·vee·che raw fish, marinated in lime juice pastel pas·tel cake
filete fee·le·te fillet postre pos·tre dessert
langosta lan·gos·ta lobster
mariscos ma·rees·kos shellfish FRUIT & VEGETABLES
ostiones os·tyo·nes oysters aceituna a·say·too·na olive
pescado pes·ka·do fish as food calabacita ka·la·ba·see·ta squash
pulpo pool·po octopus cebolla se·bo·lya onion
champiñones sham·pee·nyo·nes mushrooms
EGGS coco ko·ko coconut
(huevos) estrellados (hwe·vos) es·tre·ya·dos fried (eggs) elote e·lo·te corn on the cob
huevos motuleños hwe·vos mo·too·le·nyos ‘Eggs in the style of Motul’; fried eggs atop ensalada en·sa·la·da salad
a tortilla, garnished with beans, peas, fresa fre·sa strawberry
chopped ham, sausage, grated cheese and frijoles fri·kho·les beans
a certain amount of spicy chili guayaba gwa·ya·ba guava
huevos rancheros hwe·vos ran·che·ros fried eggs served on a corn tortilla, topped jícama khee·ka·ma turnip-like tuber, often sliced and
with a sauce of tomato, chilies and onions garnished with chili and lime; sweet,
huevos revueltos hwe·vos re·vwel·tos scrambled eggs crunchy and refreshing
jitomate khee·to·ma·te tomato
SOUP lechuga le·choo·ga lettuce
caldo kal·do broth or soup limón lee·mon lemon
consomé con·so·may broth made from chicken or mutton base maíz mai·ees corn
sopa so-pa soup, either ‘wet’ or ‘dry’ as in rice and pasta papas pa·pas potatoes
sopa de lima so·pa de lee·ma ‘lime soup’; chicken broth with bits of shredded piña pee·nya pineapple
chicken, tortilla strips, lime juice and chopped lime plátano macho pla·ta·no ma·cho plantain
SNACKS plátano pla·ta·no banana
antojitos an·to·khee·tos ‘little whims,’ corn- and tortilla-based snacks, such toronja to·ron·kha grapefruit
as tacos and gorditas verduras ver·doo·ras vegetables
empanada em·pa·na·da pastry turnover filled with meat, cheese or fruits CONDIMENTS & OTHER FOODS
enchiladas en·chee·la·das corn tortillas dipped in chili sauce, wrapped around achiote a·cho·te reddish paste obtained from annatto seeds
meat or poultry and garnished with cheese arroz a·roz rice
gordita gor·dee·ta thick, fried tortilla, sliced open and stuffed with eggs, azúcar a·soo·kar sugar
sausage etc, and topped with lettuce and cheese mantequilla man·te·kee·ya butter
panuchos pa·noo·chos Yucatán’s favorite snack: a handmade tortilla mole mo·le a handmade chocolate and chili sauce
stuffed with mashed black beans, fried till it puffs pan pan bread
up, then topped with shredded turkey or chicken, sal sal salt
onion and slices of avocado
papadzules pa·pad·zoo·les tortillas stuffed with chopped hard-boiled eggs and DRINKS
topped with a sauce of marrow squash (zucchini) or agua mineral a·gwa mee·ne·ral mineral water or club soda
cucumber seeds agua purificada a·gwa poo·ree·fee·ka·da bottled uncarbonated water
papas fritas pa·pas free·tas french fries atole a·to·le corn-based hot drink flavored with
quesadilla ke·sa·dee·ya cheese and other items folded inside a tortilla and cinnamon or fruit
fried or grilled café (con leche/lechero) ka·fe (kon le·che/le·che·ro) coffee (with hot milk)
relleno negro re·ye·no ne·gro turkey stuffed with chopped, spiced pork and served café americano ka·fe a·me·ree·ka·no black coffee
in a rich, dark sauce caguama ka·gwa·ma liter bottle of beer
(queso) relleno (ke·so) re·le·no stuffed (cheese), Dutch edam filled with minced horchata hor·cha·ta rice drink
meat and spices jamaica kha·may·ka hibiscus flower, chief ingredient of agua de
salbutes sal·boo·tes same as panuchos but without the bean stuffing jamaica, a cold tangy tea
sope so·pe thick corn-dough patty lightly grilled, served with jugo de naranja khoo·go de na·ran·kha orange juice
salsa, beans, onions and cheese leche le·che milk
torta tor·ta sandwich in a roll, often spread with beans and té de manzanilla te de man·sa·nee·ya chamomile tea
garnished with avocado slices té negro te ne·gro black tea
 58 lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe 59

Environment HURRICANE ALLEY: THE PATH OF WILMA AND DEAN

Hurricanes have always walloped the Yucatán, but in recent years it feels like they are just get-
ting bigger and badder. Blame global warming, blame Al Gore, blame regularly shifting climate
Arching northward between two seas like the head and shoulders of a patterns; whatever you decide to blame, the real loser has been the people, plants and animals
chac-mool sculpture (as one Yucatecan poet put it), the Yucatán Peninsula of the Yucatán.
has an insular character, in both its physical isolation from the Mexican It started on October 22, 2005, when Hurricane Wilma hit the Yucatán’s northeast coast – and
interior and its distinct topography and wildlife. stayed there for more than 30 hours. The 13th hurricane of the turbulent 2005 season – and fourth
to reach Category 5 status – Wilma vented her worst forces on Isla Holbox, Isla Cozumel, Puerto
THE LAND Morelos and Cancún, causing M$20 billion in damages. Playa del Carmen and the Riviera Maya
Separated from the bulk of Mexico by the Gulf of Mexico, and from to the south were left largely unscathed.
Planeta.com (www the Greater Antilles by the Caribbean Sea, the Yucatán Peninsula is a Two years later Dean came to town, leveling the town of Mahahual and felling thousands of
.planeta.com) brims with vast, low limestone shelf extending under the sea for more than 100km trees in southern Quintana Roo. For more on the path of Dean, see boxed text, p133.
information and links for to the north and west. The eastern (Caribbean) side drops off much While residents are slowly recovering from these hurricanes, the environmental wounds inflicted
those wanting to delve more precipitously. This underwater shelf makes Yucatán’s coastline by Wilma and Dean could take much longer to heal. Many trees were uprooted by the storms,
deeper into Mexico and wonderful for aquatic sports, keeping the waters warm and the marine leaving dead branches that will serve as fuel for fires, adding to those already left behind in the
the Yucatán’s flora, fauna life abundant. wake of Hurricane Isidore, which ravaged the state of Yucatán in 2002.
and environment. Approaching by air, you can easily make out the barrier reef that runs
parallel to the Caribbean coastline at a distance of a few hundred meters to
about 1.5km. Known variously as the Great Maya, Mesoamerican or Belize WILDLIFE
Barrier Reef, it’s the longest of its kind in the northern hemisphere – The isolation of the Yucatán Peninsula and its range of ecosystems results
and the second largest in the world – extending from southern Belize to in an extraordinary variety of plant and animal life, including a number of
Isla Mujeres off the northern coast of Quintana Roo. On the landward species that are unique to the region. Whether you like watching exotic birds,
side of the reef, the water is usually no more than 5m to 10m deep; on the following the progress of sea turtles as they nest on the beach, swimming
seaward side it plummets to depths of more than 2000m in the Yucatán next to manta rays and schools of iridescent fish, or spying wildcats through
Channel running between the peninsula and Cuba. your binoculars, you’ll have plenty to do here.
The peninsula is divided into three states in a ‘Y’ shape, with the state
of Yucatán occupying the upper portion, flanked to the west and east by Animals
the states of Campeche and Quintana Roo respectively. Note that while BIRDS
Tabasco and Chiapas are included in this book, they are not part of the For bird-watchers, the Yucatán is indeed a banquet. Over 500 bird species – The Spanish-language
Yucatán Peninsula. about half of those found in the whole country – inhabit or regularly visit monthly magazine
Around 3000 cenotes Unlike much of Mexico, the Yucatán remains unobstructed by moun- the peninsula. These include dozens of regional endemics; the island of México Desconocido points
(natural underground tains. It rises to no more than a dozen meters above sea level in its north- Cozumel alone boasts three unique species. out off-the-beaten track
pools) dot the Yucatán ern section, and at its steepest, in the southern interior of Campeche Most of the peninsula’s birds are represented in the various parks and destinations and wildlife-
Peninsula. state, only reaches about 300m. About 60km south of Mérida, near Ticul, biosphere reserves, and serious birders should make for at least a few of watching spots with
the flat Yucatán plain gives way to the rolling hills of the Puuc (‘hill’ in these. Numerous coastal species can be spotted at the Reserva de la Biósfera copious color photos and
Maya) region. Ría Celestún (p180) and Reserva de la Biósfera Ría Lagartos (p198), on the maps. Its website (www
Capped by a razor-thin crust of soil, the peninsula is less productive ag- western and eastern ends, respectively, of Yucatán state’s coast. The varied .mexicodesconocido.com
riculturally than elsewhere in Mexico. Formed by cretaceous-era sediments, panorama is due to a highly productive ecosystem where substantial fresh- .mx) includes an English-
its porous limestone bedrock does not allow rivers to flow on its surface, water sources empty into the Gulf of Mexico. A similarly diverse coastal language section.
except in short stretches near the sea where their roofs have collapsed and habitat can be found at the Laguna de Términos (p219) in western Campeche.
in the southernmost reaches of the region where the peninsula joins the Parque Nacional Isla Contoy (p96), off the northern coast of Quintana Roo,
rest of Mexico (and Guatemala). Some underground streams don’t release is a haven for olive cormorants, brown boobies and many other seabirds.
their water until well offshore; others empty into lagoons near the sea, such Moving inland, the panorama shifts. The low, dry forests of the Puuc
as the lovely Laguna Bacalar in southern Quintana Roo. region contain two species of mot-mot, which nest in ruined temples. In the
A uniquely Yucatecan geological feature, cenotes (pronounced seh- denser forests of the Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul, train your binoculars
noh-tays) – from the Maya word d’zonot, meaning ‘water-filled cavern’ – on harpy eagles, ocellated turkeys and king vultures.
are formed by the erosive effects of rainwater drilling down through The Yucatán Peninsula is along the central migratory flyway, and Birders should carry
the porous limestone. between November and February hundreds of thousands of birds mi- Mexican Birds by Roger
An estimated 3000 of these limestone sinkholes dot the peninsular land- grate here from harsher northern climes. The region’s proximity to the Tory Peterson and
scape. Yucatecans have traditionally gotten their fresh water from these Caribbean Sea also means you’ll find island species not seen elsewhere Edward L Chalif, or Birds
natural cisterns, while modern visitors favor their crystalline waters for in Mexico. of Mexico & Adjacent
swimming and snorkeling (see boxed text, p64). South of the Puuc region, In late November or early December the environmental group Ecoturismo Areas by Ernest Preston
the inhabitants draw water from the chenes (limestone pools), more than Yucatán (%999-920-2772; www.ecoyuc.com) holds the Toh Festival, an annual bird- Edwards.
100m below ground. ing festival that attracts enthusiasts from far and wide. This bird-a-thon,
 60 E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E N V I R O N M E N T • • W i l d l i fe 61

whose name is Maya for the locally seen turquoise-browed mot-mot, is compromised during or after a storm, and for several weeks around April-
based in Mérida but stages events in various parts of the peninsula. May and September-October when reef animals and plants release zillions
of eggs and droplets of sperm.
LAND ANIMALS
To see recently snapped Around a quarter of the mammal species that exist in Mexico roam the ENDANGERED SPECIES
photos of jaguars, pumas Yucatán Peninsula. Some are the last of their breed. Pollution, poaching, illegal traffic of rare species and the filling in of coastal
and other Yucatán fauna There are jaguars in the forests, although, despite the Maya’s traditional areas for yet another resort are taking an enormous toll on the Yucatán’s
in their habitat, go to the fascination with the New World’s largest cat, poaching has all but wiped them wildlife. Deforestation is also a major threat. While the Maya have practiced
website of the environ- out in southeastern Mexico. Your best chances of spotting one in the wild slash-and-burn agriculture for more than 2000 years, massive cutting really
mental group Pronatura are probably in the Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul (p222) in Campeche began to pick up in the 1960s. Since then more than five million hectares
(www.pronatura-ppy state. The peninsula’s other native wildcat, the jaguarundi, is also at risk, as of forest have been felled in the Yucatán. Species on the peninsula that are
.org.mx). are the margay, ocelot and puma, though sightings of the latter aren’t all that threatened with extinction include five species of cat (the jaguar, puma,
unusual in southern Yucatán. ocelot, margay and jaguarundi), four species of sea turtle, the manatee,
The agile spider monkey inhabits some forested areas of the region. It looks the tapir and hundreds of bird species, including the harpy eagle, the red
something like a smaller, long-tailed version of the gibbon (an ape native flamingo and the jabiru stork.
to southwest Asia). Another elusive primate, the howler monkey, frequents Various efforts are being made to save these and other endangered crea- Tropical Mexico – The
forest around the ruins of Calakmul and isolated pockets elsewhere. Howlers tures from extinction, chiefly by environmental NGOs, such as The Nature Ecotravellers’ Wildlife
are more often heard than seen, but you have a fair chance of seeing both Conservancy (www.nature.org) and its local partner Pronatura (%999-988-4436; www Guide by Les Beletsky
them and spider monkeys at Punta Laguna (p132). .pronatura-ppy.org.mx; Calle 32 No 269, Col Pinzón, Mérida) This group focuses on preserva- is a well-illustrated,
Hiking around the forest, you may run into tapirs and piglike peccaries tion of wildlife habitats, particularly in the Ría Celestún, Ría Lagartos and informative guide to the
(javelinas), as well as armor-plated armadillos. There are several species of Calakmul biosphere reserves, as well as the promotion of ecotourism. In land, air and sea life of
anteater, all with very long, flexible snouts and sharp-clawed, shovel-like particular, Pronatura is working to recover jaguar habitat in the area between southeastern Mexico.
front paws – the two tools needed to seek out and enjoy feeding on ants and the Reserva de la Biósfera Ría Lagartos and Isla Holbox, where 120 to 200
other insects. The animal’s slow gait and poor eyesight make it a common of these cats roam.
roadkill victim. Besides the tepezcuintle (paca) and sereque (agouti) – large, Camps at Ría Lagartos, Laguna de Términos and Isla Holbox have been
tailless rodents – a few species of deer can be found as well, including the established to promote the survival of the six species of marine turtle that
smallest variety in North America. nest on the Yucatán’s beaches. Volunteers collect turtle eggs and release
Crocodiles still ply the mangroves near the towns of Río Lagartos and hatchlings into the sea, and patrols prevent poachers from snatching eggs
Celestún in Yucatán state. Although their numbers are fast diminishing, that are laid on the beaches. In Punta Laguna (p132) environmental groups
plenty of the beady-eyed amphibious reptiles inhabit the Reserva de la are working with local campesinos (agricultural workers) to establish pro-
Biósfera Sian Ka’an (p133), while smaller numbers lurk up and down the tection zones for endangered spider monkeys, which are closely monitored
Caribbean coast, including at Laguna Nichupté, which backs onto Cancún’s by researchers. The nutrient-rich waters around Isla Holbox attract whale
Zona Hotelera. sharks (see boxed text, p97), which are threatened by commercial fishing,
and environmentalists have succeeded in getting this area categorized as a
SEA CREATURES protected zone.
The Great Maya Barrier Reef, paralleling the length of Quintana Roo’s coast,
is home to some of the finest snorkeling and diving in the world, a technicolor Plants
display of tremendous variety. The coney grouper, for example, is impos- Vegetation varies greatly on the peninsula, with plants falling into four main
sible to miss in its bright-yellow suit (it varies in color from reddish brown categories: aquatic and subaquatic vegetation, and humid and subhumid
to sun yellow). The redband parrot fish is easy to recognize by the striking forests. As you move inland from the coast, mangrove swamps are replaced
red circle around its eyes and the red band that runs from the eyes to the
gills. Butterfly fish are as flamboyant as their name suggests (there are six
species in the area), and the yellow stingray has spots that closely resemble IN FOCUS: THE ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACTS OF MASS TOURISM Lucy Gallagher
the rosettes of a golden jaguar. Pinpointing the main environmental problems in the region is an extremely difficult task as there
Providing an extraordinary backdrop to these brilliant stars of the sea are so many! In order to accommodate all these workers, towns have mushroomed and, unfor-
is a vast array of corals. These come in two varieties: hard corals, such as tunately, proper infrastructure has not been put in place. As a consequence, some of the main
the great star coral, the boulder coral and numerous brain corals; and soft issues are solid-waste management and waste-water management. There is no adequate garbage
corals, such as sea fans and sea plumes, which are particularly delicate and removal system in most Riviera Maya towns, and the water treatment plants for the ‘pueblos’
sway with the current. Successive generations of coral form a skin of living in the region are either nonexistent or redundant. As a result, sewage generally ends up in the
organisms over the limestone reef. underground water systems and cenotes (limestone sinkholes) and then taken out to sea. This
Complementing the experience is a water temperature that seldom dips black or gray water, rich in nutrients, acts like a fertilizer and increases algal growth in the ocean.
below 77°F (27°C) and an amazing level of visibility. Because this coast The algae, in turn, smothers coral, which has an impact on the entire marine environment.
contains not a single exposed river (many underground rivers do present You can learn more about Mexiconservación at www.mexconservacion.org.
themselves as they near the sea, but they carry very little soil), there’s prac- Lucy Gallagher, Marine Projects Director, Mexiconservación
tically no sediment to cloud the water. The crystalline condition is only
 62 E N V I R O N M E N T • • N a t i o n a l Pa r k s & R e s e r v e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com ENVIRONMENT •• Environmental Issues 63

first by a fairly dense forest of low deciduous trees, then by a more jungly
zone with tall trees and climbing vegetation and more than a few air plants SMALL FOOTPRINTS, LARGE IMPACT: MORE TIPS TO STAYING GREEN
(but without the soggy underbrush and multiple canopies you’d find further Travelers can help protect the Yucatán’s environment by taking the following steps.
south). The taller trees of the peninsula’s southern half harbor more than 100
Hire local guides. Not only does this provide local communities a more ecologically sound
species of orchid; for the really spectacular blooms, the avid orchid hunter
way of supporting themselves, it also attaches value to nature and wildlife.
will need to head into the highlands of Chiapas, where the exotic plants thrive
at an elevation of about 1000m. Avoid places that exploit wildlife for cheap thrills: taking pictures of the kids with a monkey,
Dispersed among the mango and avocado trees are many annuals and swimming with dolphins, turtle riding.
perennials, such as the aptly named flamboyán (royal poinciana), bursting Try to observe wildlife in its natural environment.
into bloom like a red-orange umbrella, and lavender-tinged jacaranda.
Don’t buy souvenirs made from endangered plants and animals that have been acquired
illegally. By purchasing these items you aid in their extinction.
NATIONAL PARKS & RESERVES
There are several national parks on the peninsula, some scarcely larger than Don’t carry off anything that you pick up at the site of an ancient city or out on a coral reef.
the ancient Maya cities they contain – Parque Nacional Tulum is a good Don’t buy these products if offered by locals.
example of this. Others, such as Parque Nacional Isla Contoy (p96), a bird When snorkeling or scuba diving, be careful what you touch and where you place your feet;
The Selva de Norte, which sanctuary in northeastern Quintana Roo, are larger and have been designated not only can coral cut you, but it’s extremely fragile and takes years to grow even a finger’s
spans the southern part to protect wildlife. length.
of the Yucatán Peninsula The fact that former president Ernesto Zedillo was an avid scuba diver Keep water use down, especially in areas that have signs requesting you to do so. Most of
and northern Guatemala was likely a factor in the creation of several parques marinos nacionales (na- the Yucatán Peninsula has limited water reserves, and in times of drought the situation can
and Belize, is the world’s tional marine parks) off the coast of Quintana Roo: Arrecifes de Cozumel; become grave.
second-largest tropical Costa Occidental de Isla Mujeres, Punta Cancún y Nizuc; and Arrecifes de
forest after the Amazon. Puerto Morelos.
Very large national biosphere reserves surround Río Lagartos, Celestún become isolated and species become trapped in smaller habitats. Animals’
(both in Yucatán state) and Banco Chinchorro (Quintana Roo), spread- movements are restricted and the gene pool cannot flow beyond the bor-
ing across thousands of hectares. The Reservas de la Biósfera Ría Lagartos ders of their fragmented habitat.
(p198) and Ría Celestún (p180) are well known for their diversity of bird Mexico’s largest oil field, the Cantarell complex, is in the Bay of
and animal species, including large colonies of flamingos, while Banco Campeche 85km off the shore of Ciudad del Carmen. In 2007 there was
Chinchorro (p137) contains a massive coral atoll, many shipwrecks and a an 11,700-barrel oil spill in the bay. The oil will affect the marine life and
host of marine species. birdlife of the region, but at the time of publication there were no reliable
Even more impressive are the two colossal Unesco-designated biosphere reports as to the extent of the damage. The Cantarell field is also yielding
reserves found in the Yucatán: the Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul (p222), less oil than it did in the past, leading the company to seek new sources in
covering more than 7230 sq km in Campeche, Quintana Roo and Chiapas, the Alacranes reef off the coast of Progreso, and at Laguna de Términos,
as well as parts of Belize and Guatemala, is home to more than 300 species where further habitat destruction is feared.
of birds. Jaguars, pumas, tapirs, coatis, peccaries and many other animals And, of course, you can’t underplay the effects global warming may
also call the preserve home. The Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka’an (p133), be having on the peninsula. Over the past few years hurricanes seem to
beginning 150km south of Cancún, covers 6000 sq km, including 100 sq km have grown in strength in the region, with both Dean and Wilma creating
of the Great Maya Barrier Reef. Its life-forms range from more than 70 species massive damage (see boxed text, p59).
of coral to 350 species of bird (by comparison, there are only 400 species of Through the efforts of nongovernmental environmental groups, such
bird in all of Europe). Crocodiles, pumas, jaguars and jabirus are among the as Pronatura, the level of protection on reserves has increased in recent Think before you drink!
animals calling Sian Ka’an home. years, and new reserves have been established and corridors extended. Around 2.7 million tons
In 2004, for example, 370,000 acres of threatened forest in the Reserva of plastic are used to
ENVIRONMENTAL ISSUES de la Biósfera Calakmul was permanently protected. However, Yucatán’s bottle water each year.
Large-scale tourism developments are affecting and sometimes erasing fragile protected zones and reserves actually encompass private ejido (commu- Stay green by asking your
ecosystems, especially along the ‘Riviera Maya’ south of Cancún. Many hec- nally owned land) occupied by campesinos, whose activities, particularly hotelier to provide water
tares of vital mangrove swamp have been bulldozed, and beaches where turtles cattle raising and logging, may infringe upon the environment. Seeking coolers or by carrying
once laid eggs are now occupied by resorts and condo-mondos. Ironically, a solution, some environmental organizations have begun training ejido your own water filter.
tourism development is a major contributor to coastal erosion, as was made inhabitants as guides for ecotourism activities, thus providing alternative
evident when 2005’s Hurricane Wilma swept away the very beaches (many livelihoods. Such programs are under way in the Reserva de la Biósfera
man-made) that attract hordes of tourists annually. And with the prolif- Calakmul and on Isla Holbox.
eration of new hotels comes the need for freshwater sources, increasing the
danger of salinization of the water table. As employment-seekers converge
on Quintana Roo’s tourist zones, demand for building materials to construct
makeshift housing for the burgeoning population is a persistent issue.
Another key issue is the fragmentation of habitat. As patches of jun-
gle shrink with new settlement and construction of new highways, they
 64 lonelyplanet.com Y U C AT Á N O U T D O O R S • • D i v i n g & S n o r k e l i n g 65

DIVE SITES (RIVIERA MAYA) 0 20 km

Yucatán Outdoors
0 12 miles

A B C
Casitas.....................1 B3 Isla
Cenote Angelita......2 A4 Holbox
Most visitors come to the Yucatán for the beaches, leaving the rest of the Cenote Dos Ojos.....3
El Cuyo A4 Porvenir Parque
Holbox
peninsula wide open for exploration and adventure. Come here to rip 1
Chankanaab............4 B3
Laguna Nacional
Isla
7
Dzul-Há...................5 B3 Yalahán
across warm surf beneath the wind-filled parabola of a kiteboard; dive into El Mirador...............6 C4 Boca Iglesia Contoy
Yucatán is home to the Chiquilá
the aquatic wonderworlds inhabited by resplendent corals and technicolor Isla Contoy..............7 C1
Palancar Gardens.....8 B4 Isla
second-largest barrier reef schools of fish; leap from limestone ridges into the crystalline waters of Puerto Morelos.......9 C3 Laguna Blanca
Punta Norte..........10 C3 Chacmochuk
in the world, making this Yucatán’s mysterious, otherworldly cenotes (limestone sinkholes contain- Punta Sur..............11 B4 Isla Mujeres
a world-class diving and ing fresh water); or get sweaty (we mean really sweaty) as you cut your way Tulum...................12 B4 Punta
Sam
snorkeling destination. through jungle trails to lost pyramids. San Puerto Juárez
Colonia Ángel Quintana
The Yucatán’s amazing biological preserves offer hikers, kayakers and Yucatán Roo
Cancún

other outdoor wanderers the chance to spot birds and animals few people Yucatán Airport
still see in the wild. Even the quickest of detours brings you face to face with 2 Kantunilkin
MEX
180
everything you thought you’d only see on television, or invest yourself a bit Punta
more for a once-in-a-lifetime multiday trek or kayak. Nizuc
La Esperanza
Whatever your pleasure, be it the heart-stopping rush hanging on to a Vicente
Guerrero
Punta
jungle-canopy zipline or a quiet stroll along a romantic, secluded beach at Caracol
El Ideal Aqua 9
sunset, the Yucatán has what you’re looking for. Don’t hesitate to step outside Xcan
Nuevo Azul
Guadalupe Puerto Morelos
Xcan MEX
the lines or do something on the spur of the moment. Those moments are Victoria 307

likely to be the best ones of your whole trip. CARIBBEAN

Tres Ríos Punta
Tres Reyes Zona de Lagunas Sacbe Maroma SEA
y Cenotes
DIVING & SNORKELING 3 Playa del
Punta
Molas
Airport
The cenotes of Cuzamá Without a doubt, diving and snorkeling are the area’s top activity draw. The Carmen
Xcaret 10
1
are the most frequently Caribbean is world famous for its wonderful coral reefs and translucent waters Cenote
Paamul Airport
Katan Chi
photographed sinkholes full of tropical fish. The Yucatán’s reefs stretch from the northeastern tip near Xpu-Há
5
San Miguel
Cobá
of the peninsula. Isla Contoy and as far south as Belize. Isla Cozumel (p108), once a pilgrimage 4 de Cozumel
Isla
site of the Maya and all but abandoned except by a small fishing community, Laguna
El Continente
Akumal Cozumel
was brought to the world’s attention by Jacques Cousteau in 1961, shortly Laguna
Nochacam 3 Chemuyil
8
6
Xel-Há 11
after the perfection of the Aqua-Lung. Guided by local fishermen, Cousteau Xcacel
Punta Solimán
was able to show – for the first time – the astounding richness of Cozumel’s Tankah Bahías de Punto Punta
Celarain
reefs, sparking in many who see it a lifelong passion for diving. 4 Tulum 12 Solimán
Tulum Parque Marino
Although Cozumel was hammered by two hurricanes (Emily and Wilma) Nacional Arrecifes
de Cozumel
in 2005, most of the island’s diveable reefs, and all of the deeper ones, 2
remained unharmed. Unsurprisingly, it was the snorkeling sites that were To Cenote Laguna To Xcalak and Banco
Chunyaxché Boca Paila Chinchorro Dive Sites (160km)
hardest hit; yet, thanks to the tireless efforts of the local diving community Azul (22km)

(whose livelihood depends on the health of the reefs) and to the resilience
of this amazing ecosystem, things are returning to normal. If you’re a Cenotes and lagoons
diver heading to this area, Cozumel’s Punta Sur and Palancar Gardens (see are fragile ecosystems.
DIVING CENOTES boxed text, p113) are must-sees. Snorkelers will want to check out Dzul-Há Most environmentalists
When you find yourself yawning at the green morays, eagle rays, dolphins, sea turtles, nurse and Casitas, both of which are near the town of San Miguel de Cozumel. urge visitors to not wear
sharks and multitudinous tropical fish, you’re ready to dive a cenote (a deep limestone sinkhole Hurricanes are not the only weather-related issue for divers, though. In sunscreen when entering
containing water). Hook up with a reputable dive shop and prepare for (in the immortal words Cozumel, nortes (storms bringing wind and rain from the north) can blow these miraculous bodies.
of Monty Python) ‘something completely different.’ so strongly that the harbormaster closes ports – sometimes for days. While
You’ll be lucky if you see four fish on a typical cenote dive. Trade brilliance for darkness, blue this won’t affect the ferry between Cozumel and Playa del Carmen, it can
for black, check that your regulator is working flawlessly and enter a world unlike anything you’ve wreck diving plans.
ever dived before. Soar around stalactites and stalagmites, hover above cake-frosting formations Though Cozumel is a must-see, serious divers will be happy to know that
and glide around in tunnels that will make you think you’re in outer space. there are great dives to be enjoyed all along the eastern coast of the Yucatán
Keep in mind these are fragile environments. Avoid applying sunscreen or insect repellent Peninsula. Cancún, Isla Mujeres, Puerto Morelos, Playa del Carmen and
right before entering. Use care when approaching, entering or exiting, as the rocks are often Xcalak are all prime places to plan a diving vacation. The Banco Chinchorro
slippery. Loud noises such as yelling disturb bats and other creatures – though most people find (see ‘Digging Out After Dean, the Big Picture’, p133), the largest coral atoll
themselves subdued by the presence in these caverns. In rare cases, tourists have been seriously in the northern hemisphere, was hard-hit by Hurricane Dean in 2007. At
injured or killed by climbing on the roots or stalactites. the time of publication, there was no news regarding the damage to the reef,
so call a local operator (p137) before visiting.
 66 Y U C AT Á N O U T D O O R S • • K a y a k i n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com Y U C AT Á N O U T D O O R S • • K i t e b o a r d i n g & W i n d s u r f i n g 67

Alltournative (p105). In the south, book tours through Community Tours

RESPONSIBLE DIVING & SNORKELING Sian Ka’an (p134).
Please consider the following tips when diving and help preserve the ecology and beauty
You can rent equipment for DIY adventures all along the Caribbean coast
of reefs:
at Cancún, Isla Holbox, Tres Ríos or at Playa Palancar near Cozumel. You
can also get out onto the water at Rancho Punta Venado, Bahías de Punta
Never use anchors on the reef, and take care not to ground boats on coral. Solimán, Tankah and Xcalak. The Laguna de Bacalar offers some freshwater
Avoid touching or standing on living marine organisms or dragging equipment across the adventure opportunities.
reef. Polyps can be damaged by even the gentlest contact. If you must hold on to the reef,
only touch exposed rock or dead coral. KITEBOARDING & WINDSURFING
Be conscious of your fins. Even without contact, the surge from fin strokes near the reef can The same winds that can make a dive challenging or even cause it to be
damage delicate organisms. Take care not to kick up clouds of sand, which can smother them. canceled are a kitesurfer’s dream. Strong northeast winds made Isla Holbox
(p96) a prime spot for kiteboarding – though the region’s protected status
Practice and maintain proper buoyancy control. Major damage can be done by divers has put a temporary moratorium on the sport – but the whole Riviera Maya
descending too fast and colliding with the reef. and the beaches near Progreso (p183) also see good winds. The beaches east
Take great care in underwater caves. Spend as little time in them as possible as your air of Progreso are much less crowded than those of Tulum (p122) or Cancún.
bubbles may be caught within the roof and thereby leave organisms high and dry. Take turns But use care, especially when sunbathers might be within the range of a
to inspect the interior of a small cave. crashing kite. There’s nothing like a lawsuit to spoil an otherwise fantastic
Resist the temptation to collect or buy corals or shells or to loot marine archaeological sites vacation. It’s Mexico, so don’t assume that your instructor is licensed or on
(mainly shipwrecks). the lookout for dangers. Before setting off, check carefully for above-water
obstacles, both moving and stationary. Check in and around the water for
Ensure that you take home all your rubbish and any litter you may find as well. Plastics in
swimmers, boats and so on. Ask where the reef is and whether there are any
particular are a serious threat to marine life.
other underwater obstacles that could pose a problem. In all but the biggest
Do not feed the fish. tourist centers of Quintana Roo – Cancún, Playa del Carmen, Cozumel and
Minimize your disturbance of marine animals. Never ride on the backs of turtles. Isla Mujeres – you’ll need your own equipment.
What about windsurfing? Well, with all that great wind you’d think there’d February and March are
be lots of windsurfer rentals around (you remember, those things with a real the worst months for
Most of the places listed earlier are also great snorkeling spots. The best sail?) but they’re becoming scarce. Some cabanas or beachside hotels still norte winds, which can
snorkeling is generally reached by boats, but the areas near Akumal, Isla rent them (or have ones you’re welcome to use). But if you’re an old-school, close ports and frustrate
The Cozumel Dive Guide Mujeres and Cozumel all offer pretty decent beach-accessed spots. Inland die-hard windsurfer and you’re planning on finding a rig, you might need to divers, but are great news
(www.cozumeldiveguide you can dive or swim in some of the Yucatán’s famed cenotes (see boxed call around or check online (unless you’re going to bring your own). for kiteboarders.
.com) offers great maps text, p124). If surfing is your thing, then you’re in the wrong spot, barney. But the
and descriptions of the Most dive shops expect that you have your own equipment. If you do rent windward side of Cozumel does offer a few waves bigger than what you’d
area’s dives. And a little diving equipment, try to make sure that it’s up to standard. And remember see in a toilet bowl.
shameless plug: Lonely that coral reefs and other marine ecosystems are particularly fragile envi-
Planet has a dive guide to ronments. For tips on caring for them and other tips for responsible diving, HIKING
the region, too. see boxed text, above. Hiking is a wonderful way to enjoy Yucatán’s many outdoor delights. Any of
the region’s inland reserves make great hiking spots. Ruin-hoppers will find
KAYAKING that even relatively flat areas, such as Chichén Itzá (p186), offer one or two
For those who like to keep their head above water, consider renting a kayak hours of strenuous – even difficult – walking, especially around the midday
and exploring the shoreline or a mangrove swamp. Yucatán’s coastal lagoons heat. Bring a hat and lots of water. Less visited areas, such as Dzibanché (p145)
and sheltered bays make for magnificent kayaking, and there’s often interest- and Kohunlich (p146), offer beautiful vistas from the tops of the structures,
ing wildlife to be seen among the mangrove thickets. It’s uncommon to see and lots of small trails through truly awesome jungle. The walking tours on
manatees (unheard of now in the Cancún area) but possible in the protected Isla Contoy (p96) afford great opportunities to see birdlife.
reserves near Punta Allen (p134) and Xcalak (p137), if you’re lucky. Even if
you don’t see a manatee, you’ll spot amazing bird life: herons, egrets, storks,
bitterns, and (in the right places) even flamingos or roseate spoonbills, ducks FINDING A DIVE SHOP & STAYING SAFE
and migratory shorebirds as you glide the unpaddled pathways. There’s no such thing as a free dive. Beware of dive shops that promise certification after just a
You’ll find that many hotels and inns have kayaks for rent or for guests’ few hours’ instruction. Make sure the dive shop is certified by PADI (www.padi.com), NAUI (www
use. Hostal del Pirata (p209) in Campeche arranges kayaking trips to Reserva .naui.com) or FMAS (www.fmas.org.mx), the internationally recognized Mexican diving organization,
de la Biósfera Los Petenes, a network of mangroves north of the city, and and that its accreditation is up to date. If you don’t have your own equipment, ask to see theirs
around the Isla de Jaina, which is an archaeological site on a small island before you commit. And ask to talk with your dive master before you leave. Make sure you feel
up the coast. The Laguna de Términos in southern Campeche was a good comfortable with them: after all, it’s your life. Lastly, remember that it’s wise to know the loca-
kayaking spot, but a 2007 oil spill in the Bay of Campeche may have put an tions of the nearest decompression chambers and the emergency telephone numbers, and to
end to that. You’ll want to call ahead to see how the region is faring. Kayaking avoid diving less than 18 hours before a high-altitude flight.
tours in northern Quintana Roo can be booked through Playa del Carmen’s
 68 Y U C AT Á N O U T D O O R S • • C y c l i n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com Y U C AT Á N O U T D O O R S • • Fi s h i n g 69

Hiking tours are also available through companies located in the larger Spotting manatees is difficult but may be possible on a kayaking trip (see
towns, such as Mérida (p157), Xpujil (p225) and San Cristóbal de Las Casas p66), which is also a great way to see birdlife. You can swim with whale
(p235). Many companies combine walks in national parks with visits to Maya sharks (see boxed text, p97) off the coast of Isla Holbox.
Alternative and agro- sites. The tour operator in Xpujil offers weeklong jungle treks through the For more information on what you can see and where, check p59. By putting the guidebook
tourism are on the rise Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul (p225) for those who just can’t get enough down and exploring
throughout the peninsula. of being bitten by mosquitoes. FISHING the little-known sights
You can learn more about The highlands of Chiapas are a great place for hiking, though you’ll want The Caribbean coast has some good sport fishing, and the areas around beyond the ‘Lonely
Quintana Roo’s rural tour- to exercise extreme caution here given the current political situation. The Punta Allen (p134) and Xcalak (p137) are famous for their catch-and-release Planet Trail,’ you create a
ism alternatives at www Selva Lacandona (Lacandon Jungle; see boxed text, p242) is one of the most fly-fishing. Further north, fishing can be done on Isla Mujeres and around more sustainable model
.puertaverde.com.mx. biodiverse spots in Mexico. Cozumel. In Yucatán state, the popular areas are Río Lagartos (p198) and for tourism.
Yucatán also offers DIY-style hikes at just about anywhere you feel like San Felipe (p200).
parking the car. Ruined haciendas, overgrown jungle trails, a mile of flotsam-
studded coastline – the wonders of Yucatán’s outdoors are limited mainly ZIPLINING & OTHER ADRENALINE RUSHES
by your own imagination and what you have time for. Ziplining has become popular in recent years, and many of the cenote adven-
That said, remember that this is the boonies: prepare carefully if you’re tures also offer (or include) the adrenaline-filled, bird’s-eye dangle over the
going to be heading off the beaten track. Tell someone where you’re headed jungle canopy. It’s not as heart-stopping as bungee jumping or parachuting,
and when you’re due back, and bring relevant maps, a cell phone and GPS. but it’s a whole lot safer and still pretty good fun. Hidden Worlds, which
Valuables left in a car are unlikely to be stolen, especially once you’re outside offers cave tours in its cenote park (p120), also has ziplining, as do many of
the bigger cities, but it’s a possibility. Actual muggings are even rarer, but the tour operators out of Cancún and Playa del Carmen.
it’s always safer to travel as part of a group. More likely are problems with All-terrain vehicle (ATV) and off-road tours are other possible outdoor
scorpions (painful, but not deadly), vipers (yep, deadly) or (wouldn’t this thrills that are offered and often touted; however, weigh the potential fun with
make a great story?) crocodiles – in Celestún’s estuaries they can reach a the clear and obvious environmental destruction that ATVs cause: tearing
length of 6m (though this is rare). Even in the well-traveled spots such as up trails, destroying plant and animal life. They are especially harmful to
the Ruta Puuc ruins there are poorly marked sinkholes: a wrong step could the fragile dune ecologies, as many of the plants that prevent the sand from
snap a leg or even plop you into an inescapable chamber below. Have fun, shifting or blowing away can be killed with a single footstep, let alone a wheel
but keep the thinking cap on. of a vehicle. We feel most readers will want to find less destructive ways to
enjoy their time in Yucatán, so ATV-specific tour operators have not been
CYCLING listed. Those who want to rent one, however, will have no problem finding
The relatively flat terrain of most of the Yucatán Peninsula can make pedal- a place that offers ATVs.
ing an attractive option, though it’s best to steer clear of busy roads where
possible. Valladolid has a nice 5km bike trail to its nearby cenotes (p194). THE QUIET OUTDOORS
Campeche has a bike trail along its malecón (seafront promenade; p208) OK, so you’re reading all this thinking, ‘Every time I feel adrenaline it’s
that would make for a pleasant spin. The secondary roads throughout the right before I throw up… isn’t there something relaxing I can do outside?’
peninsula are all good biking spots, and most Maya living in the countryside Of course there is. Even for folks who aren’t adrenaline junkies, Yucatán
get around on utilitarian tricycles. Mérida (p149) closes its downtown streets offers great opportunities for quiet outdoor fun. The shallow waters be-
on Sundays to make room for cyclists and street vendors. tween Isla Mujeres’ Playa Norte and Punta Norte (p90) are perfect for
Bicycles are available for rent at the hostels in Campeche (p208), Isla low-key, no-current splashing and wading, and would be perfect for any-
Mujeres (p95), Cozumel (p118), Tulum (p128), Cobá (p129), Río Lagartos one with kids in tow. And Yucatán is blessed with hundreds of miles of
(p199) and Valladolid (p196). beaches perfect for combing. Few things are nicer than softly padding your
For tips on cycling in the Yucatán, see above. way along the beach as the sun sets (or rises).

WATCHING WILDLIFE & BIRDS

In the Yucatán you can head inland into jungle so remote that it still has DELVE DEEPER INTO NATURE – VOLUNTEER
populations of jaguars, known only because of the occasional discoveries One of the best ways to get up close and personal with wildlife is by volunteering your time –
of half-eaten spider monkeys. Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul (p222) and or money – to protect it. For more volunteer opportunities in the region, see boxed text, p264.
Nonprofit Amigos de Isla Punta Laguna (p132) offer your best chances of seeing a jaguar in the wild, AmeriSpan (www.amerispan.com) Offers volunteer opportunities in environmental education
Contoy (www.islacontoy but (seriously) don’t get your hopes up. At Punta Laguna, native guides take and other areas.
.org) has good informa- you on a walking tour that will most probably include sightings of spider
tion on visiting the island and howler monkeys. Extended trips may be possible, too, but should only Mexicoservación (www.mexiconservacion.org) This NGO dedicated to coastal preservation often
bird sanctuary. be undertaken by expert trekkers who have ample experience. looks for volunteers to study the reefs and coasts of Quintana Roo.
Both Calakmul (p222) and Laguna de Términos (p219) are prime birding Pronatura (www.pronatura-ppy.org.mx) An environmental NGO that seeks volunteers to work
spots. Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul has 235 different kinds of birds, of with sea-turtle nesting areas in the Yucatán and in other projects.
which 76% are resident species, including the ocellated turkey, a large bird Vive Mexico (www.vivemexico.org) NGO that coordinates international social, ecological and
with rainbow plumage like a peacock. Similar birding experiences can be cultural work camps in Mexico.
found at Río Lagartos (p198) and Celestún (p180).
© Lonely Planet Publications
70 Y U C AT Á N O U T D O O R S • • T h e Q u i e t O u t d o o r s lonelyplanet.com 71

Progreso (p183), Río Lagartos (p198) and Celestún (p179) all offer beau-
tiful beaches. Between Mahahual (p136) and Xcalak (p137) there are lovely
stretches of sand, fringed by palm trees and strewn with coral and conch
shells, though there’s also an amazing (sometimes fascinating!) amount of
trash. Some of the hotels in this area employ full-time beach-cleaners to
wander through every few hours and keep their sections clean.
There’s plenty of golf to be found here, especially in Quintana Roo –
some would say too much. A whole lot of mangrove forest is sacrificed to
create the courses here. Wouldn’t it be better to take up a less detrimental
sport like co-ed naked blue whale spearing?
Parks and plazas are an integral part of Mexican and Yucatecan life, one
that’s often overlooked as we travelers dash about from one must-see sight
to another. Yet few activities offer a better insight into the lifestyle and
character of a town than a few hours spent people-watching in an outdoor
park. It’s a great opportunity to chat with locals: put the guidebook down
for a while and get their suggestions on where to eat or what to see.

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
QUINTANA ROO 70 71

QUINTANA ROO
Quintana Roo
You’d think that as one of Mexico’s most visited states, it’d be impossible to find a bit of solitude
in Quintana Roo. But beyond the ‘hit-me-baby-one-more-time’ clubs of Cancún and ‘McMaya’
theme parks of the Riviera Maya, you just might find your own quiet piece of paradise.

There are talcum-powder beaches stretching all the way from Cancún to the Belizean
border, unassuming Caribbean islands protected by the world’s second-largest barrier reef,
and impressive Maya sites throughout this long-arching sliver of limestone, salt and sea.

It’s the peninsula’s super state, highly developed, heavily touristed, easy to get around and
chock-full of adventure opportunities – from exploring the depths of the region’s numerous
cenotes (limestone sinkholes filled with fresh water) and world-class dive sites to beating your
own path to seldom-visited ruins such as Dzibanché and Kohunlich in the Maya heartland.

Most trips to Quintana Roo (kin-tah-nah roh) will begin and end in Cancún. Chicer-than-
thou Playa del Carmen, Cozumel (truly a diver’s delight) and Isla Mujeres round out the
not-really-Mexico-but-still-a-pretty-damned-good-place-to-spend-your-vacation fairylands of
Quintana Roo.

Several hurricanes (Wilma, Emily and Dean, just to name the biggies) have slammed into the
region in recent years. And widespread tourism development along the coast has also taken
its environmental toll on the fragile reefs and coastal lagoons of the area, but Quintana Roo is
too big now to be knocked out by mere hurricane winds. It’ll take at least a dozen greedy real-
estate developers and a couple million more complacent visitors to signal the death knell.

HIGHLIGHTS Isla Holbox

Set out for a morning bird-watching mission

from the remote Costa Maya beach town of
Xcalak (p137), heading out a bit later for a Playa del Carmen
dive at Banco Chinchorro (p137) Isla Cozumel

Stay out till dawn in one of the happening Tulum

beachfront clubs in Playa del Carmen (p107),
taking the ferry across to Isla Cozumel (p108)
the next day for a snorkel and a swim
Take a whale shark excursion from Isla
Holbox (see boxed text, p97)
Banco
Chinchorro
Go iguana-spotting among the mysterious, Dzibanché
spectacularly situated ruins of Tulum (p124) Kohunlich
Xcalak
Marvel at Jurassic-like jungles amid the
mysterious ruins of Kohunlich (p146) and
Dzibanché (p145)

POPULATION: 1.14 MILLION AREA: 50,351 SQ KM

QUINTANA ROO 72 CANCÚN •• History lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com Q U I N TA N A R O O 73

QUINTANA ROO
CANCÚN ORIENTATION
Cancún consists of two very distinct areas:
QUINTANA ROO
89ºW 88ºW
0
0

87ºW
60 km
40 miles

Ciudad Cancún (downtown) and Isla Cancún

%998 / pop 526,700
(the Zona Hotelera).
Unlike many cities in the world, Cancún just The airport is about 8km south of the Gulf of Mexico
See Riviera Maya (Tulum Corridor) Map (p100)
Río Lagartos Isla
isn’t afraid. It’s unabashed and unapologetic, downtown. Puerto Juárez, the main port for El Cuyo Holbox Parque Nacional
Holbox
and in that lies its high-gloss charm. So send passenger ferries to Isla Mujeres, is about 3km Parque
San
Felipe
Reserva de la
Biósfera Ría Lagartos Ferry Porvenir
Isla Contoy
Dzilam Natural
in the Maya dancers, swashbuckling pirates north of downtown. Punta Sam, the dock for de Bravo San Felipe Chiquilá
Isla
MEX Blanca
and beer-chugging US spring breakers. the slower car ferries to Isla Mujeres, is about 27 Solferino
Isla
Colonia
Cancún can take it. But can you? 7km north of downtown. Irregular services MEX
Yucatán San Ángel Punta Sam Mujeres
176 Puerto Juárez
Like Las Vegas, Ibiza or Dubai, Cancún leave from the Zona Hotelera. Motul
Tizimín Tres Marías
Cancún
Kantunilkin
is a party city that just won’t give up. Top Tepakán
MEX
295
21ºN Leona Vicario Aeropuerto 21ºN
that off with a pretty damned good beach Ciudad Cancún To Mérida (20km)
Espita
Internacional
Izamal Nuevo de Cancún
and you have one of the western hemi- Ciudad Cancún is where you should stay if Ek' Balam Xcan Vicente Boca del Puma
Hoctún El Ideal Guerrero
sphere’s biggest tourist draws, bringing in you’re looking to save a bundle. Prices are
Acanceh
Kantunil (Toll)
Xcan
Puerto
Vallarta Morelos
exit exit
as many as four million visitors (mostly reasonable (for Cancún, that is) and food Huhí 180D
MEX
Valladolid Nuevo
Playa del
Pisté Durango
from the US) annually. And with four is great: seafood and traditional Yucatecan Mayapán MEX
180
Chemax Punta
Laguna Airport
Carmen
Chichén Ferries Airport
million visitors each year you have crime fare. Beaches are about 20 minutes away via Itzá
Chichimilá
Puerto Xcaret
Tekit Paamul
and corruption, over-the-top, outrageously Aventuras San Miguel
Route 1 city buses, but there’s also plenty Cobá
Xpu-Há de Cozumel
overhyped tourist traps, clamor and clutter. to do and see in the centro itself. The main To Ticul Yucatán
Akumal Isla
Xcacel Chemuyil Cozumel
You also have a boomtown economic jug- north–south thoroughfare is Avenida Tulum, Xel-Há
Tepich Cenote Tulum
gernaut, and an accidental metropolis with a wide boulevard lined with banks, shopping MEX
Tihosuco Angelita
Tankah
Parque Marino Nacional
Muyil Archaeological Site Arrecifes de Cozumel
a growing culinary sophistication. There are centers and restaurants. Park Las Palapas is
184 Peto
Parque Nacional Tulum
Laguna Muyil
a few hip nightspots in the old downtown quiet and safe, a great place for an afternoon 20ºN Laguna de Boca Paila 20ºN
Boca Paila
area and even some relatively authentic picnic or an evening stroll. Shopaholics will Laguna
Cenote MEX
Laguna
Santa Rosa MEX
Azul 307
market areas. enjoy the colorful markets, which offer jew- Dzuiché
Chicnancanab 295 Chunyaxché

Cancún isn’t for everyone, and this type of elry, handicrafts and souvenirs, as well as a José María Punta Allen
Morelos
mass tourism certainly won’t interest many variety of inexpensive Mexican food. Felipe Bahía de la
Carrillo Ascención
Lonely Planet–style travelers. But as long as Plaza Las Américas, on Avenida Tulum at Polyuc
MEX
184 Puerto
Laguna
you’re here, might as well dig into the kitsch the south edge of the centro, is a vast modern Kaná CARIBBEAN SEA
Reserva
and crap that make this city unique. shopping mall that includes the Liverpool Laguna de la
Ocom Biósfera
MEX
Sian Ka’an Bahía del
and Chedraui department stores, a multiplex 307
Espíritu Santo
HISTORY cinema, a food court and a salsa dance club. Ucum
Laguna
Xpaitoro
Punta Pájaros

When you look around at the giant hotels Don’t confuse it with Plaza América, a small, Reserva
MEX
293
Laguna
Nohbec
de la
and supermalls it’s hard to imagine that pre- aging arcade on Avenida Cobá with a few Biósfera Nohbec
Punta Pulticub
19ºN Calakmul 19ºN
1970s there was nothing here but sand and airline offices. Limones

Campeche
fishermen. In the 1970s Mexico’s ambitious Quintana Laguna
Bacalar
planners decided to outdo Acapulco with a Zona Hotelera Roo
Laguna de
San Felipe
brand-new, world-class resort located on the The Zona Hotelera is what most people think Mahahual
Dzibanché Bacalar Banco Reserva de la
Yucatán Peninsula. The place they chose was of when they say ‘Cancún’: the sandy spit that Morocoy
Chinchorro Biósfera Banco
Airport Chinchorro
a deserted sand spit located offshore from encloses a scenic lagoon on one side and has Xpuhil Francisco Xul-ha Calderitas
Villa Zona Libre
the little fishing village of Puerto Juárez, the Caribbean’s azure-greens on the other. CHETUMAL
Xpujil MEX Santa Elena
186
Its main road, Blvd Kukulcán, is a four-lane Río Bec
on the peninsula’s eastern shore: Cancún. di do Consejo
con Kohunlich Corozal Bahía de
Vast sums were sunk into landscaping and divided avenue that leaves Ciudad Cancún Es Chetumal
ío Xcalak

o
infrastructure, yielding straight, well-paved and heads eastward for a few kilometers pass-

nd
R

Ho
Nohmul
roads, potable tap water and great swaths of ing condominium developments, several
sandy beach. hotels and shopping complexes, to Punta Río ORANGE WALK
18ºN Ambergris 18ºN
e C
r eek La Cuello BELIZE Caye
Hurricanes Wilma and Emily whipped Cancún (Cancún Point) and the Centro de Reserva
de la
lu Unión
B

San Pedro
into town in 2005, destroying area hotels, Convenciones (Convention Center). Biósfera
Calakmul Blue Creek Altun
Aguas Village
flooding much of the city and carrying off From Punta Cancún, the boulevard heads GUATE-
Turbias Ha
Caye Caulker
Lamanai
much of Cancún’s precious beach sand. south for about 13km, flanked on both sides MALA
Nearly M$200 million later, the beaches are for much of the way by huge hotels, shopping Hill Bank
Río Azul

Chan Chich
Ladyville
back, the hotels are up and running, and centers, dance clubs and many restaurants and Gallon Jug
Bermudian Burrell
Boom BELIZE CITY
Cancún is ready to get you drunk and get bars, to Punta Nizuc (Nizuc Point). Here it Landing
89ºW 88ºW 87ºW
you tanned. turns westward and then rejoins the mainland,
QUINTANA ROO 74 CANCÚN •• Information lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com CANCÚN 75

QUINTANA ROO
CANCÚN & ISLA MUJERES Immigration CANCÚN 0
0
2 km
1 mile
0 8 km Instituto Nacional de Migración (Immigration Office;
0 4 miles
Map p77; %881-3560; cnr Av Náder 1 & Av Uxmal; A B C D
To Punta
h9am-1pm Mon-Fri) For visa and tourist-card exten- Sam (2km)
31 Bahía Playa Caracol
Playa
sions. Enter the left-hand, southernmost of the two offices. de Mujeres Punta
Caracol Cancún
Parque Nacional Dock
1 Playa

uj o
es
Isla Contoy

t
er
aM y
Internet Access Tortugas 28

Isl Ferr
10 1 Plaza 32
Boca Iglesia Cayos Ratón Puerto Laguna 5 20 Caracol 6
y Cotuna CARIBBEAN Hotels can charge as much as M$50 per 15 Juárez 30 de Nichupté
Calle
11
Isla Quetzal 25 24
Blanca SEA minutes. Internet cafés in Cancún centro are Paseo
Laguna
Bojórquez
18
Pok-Ta-Pok 15
plentiful, speedy and cheap, costing M$15 lo
16
Playa
Laguna rtil 23 Gaviota
Chakmochuk per hour or less. Po 3
ez 0 800 m Azul
Lóp 0 0.5 miles
Av

See Isla Mujeres

Laundry MEX Playa
Map (p89) Lava y Seca (Map p77; %892-4789; Crisantemos 20; 180 Las
Perlas
h9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Downtown; charges M$15 per 2

eres
s
Isla

jere
Isla erry to

Isla Muj to
Mujeres
kilogram.

Ferry
Mu
Punta Sam lcán

F
Kuku
Lavanderia Lagoon (Map p75; %044 999-883-1129; To 180D (toll; 7km); See Ciudad
Blvd Bahía
Puerto Valladolid (154km); Playa de Mujeres
Juárez Paseo Pok-Ta-Pok; h9am-8pm Mon-Sat) All the resorts Mérida (330km)
Cancún Map Juventud
(p77)
Playa
MEX
Cancún in the Zona offer laundry service, but Lavanderia Lagoon Linda
Playa
Langosta
180 Punta charges M$15 per kilogram and takes two hours. Taxi Zone
MEX Cancún
307 Laguna 29
MEX
14
To Valladolid (127km); Aeropuerto de Nichupté 307 7
Mérida (287km) Internacional
de Cancún
Isla
Cancún
Left Luggage
MEX (To
ll) Pay-in-advance lockers (per 24hr M$70) are at the
180D INFORMATION
airport, just outside customs at the interna- 3 American Medical Care Center..1 D1
See Cancún Map (p75)
tional arrivals area. British Consulate......................2 C4 See Enlargement
A
Centro de Convenciones........(see 6) v Am
igo
Lavanderia Lagoon..................3 C2 Laguna
Bojórquez 22 Playa
To Puerto Morelos (16km);
Playa del Carmen (42km);
Medical Services Police...................................... 4 D4
Spanish Consulate....................5 C1 Chac-Mool
21
Tulum (118km) American Medical Care Center (Map p75; %884-
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 26
6133; Plaza Quetzal, Blvd Kukulcán Km 8) Has bilingual Museo Inah..............................6 D1
8 13 Playa
Marlin
cutting through light tropical forest for a few (Spanish and English) doctors and 24-hour emergency care. Scuba Cancún..........................7 C3 Sheraton Cancún
Yamil Lu'um............................ 8 D4 Isla
more kilometers to its southern terminus at Major US insurance plans are accepted. Zona Arqueológica El Rey........ 9 C5 Cancún
4
Caribbean
Cancún’s international airport. Centro Medico Caribe Cancún (Map p77; %883- 27
Playa Sea
Addresses in the Zona Hotelera are re- SLEEPING Ballenas
9257; Av Yaxilan 74A; h24hr) A small facility on the 4 Laguna Laguna

lcán
Ambiance Villas Kin-Ha..........10 C1 del Amor
freshingly simple: instead of a street name de Nichupté
roundabout on Av Yaxilan with 24-hour assistance. Grand Royal Lagoon..............11 C1

uku
2
Hilton Cancún........................12 C5

dK
(usually Blvd Kukulcán anyway) a kilometer Hyperbaric Chamber (%892-7680; Alcatraces 44; Me by Melia.......................... 13 D4

Blv
distance from the ‘Km 0’ roadside marker at h24hr) Riu Caribe..............................14 C3 19
EATING
Sina Suites..............................15 C1 17
the boulevard’s northern terminus in Ciudad Carlos 'n' Charlie's.................16 D1
Crab House........................... 17 C4
Cancún is given. Each kilometer is similarly Money Forum Mall............................18 D1
Royal Yacht Club
marked. Most bus drivers will know the loca- La Dolce Vita.........................19 C4
There are several banks with ATMs on La Isla Shopping Village.......(see 26)
tion you’re heading but, if in doubt, you can Avenida Tulum (including a Banamex and 12 Las Fajitas...............................20 C1
Playa Lorenzillo's............................21 D3
just ask to be dropped off at the appropriate two Bancomers), between Avenidas Cobá and 9 San Matachi Seaside Grill...........(see 12)
Miguelito
kilometer marker. Uxmal. Cancún’s international airport also 5 Laguna
Cabra
Plaza Flamingo......................22 D3
Señor Frog's.......................... 23 D2
has ATMs and money exchange; for more Playa
INFORMATION details see p86. Delfines ENTERTAINMENT
Bulldog Café..........................24 D1
Bookstores MEX
307 Cinemark.............................(see 26)
Fama (Map p77; %884-6541; Av Tulum 105 SM 22 M4 Post Coco Bongo.........................(see 18)
Dady Rock...........................(see 25)
Lotes 27 & 27A) Magazines, atlases and books in several There is no post office in the Zona Hotelera, Laguna Dady'O..................................25 D1
Río
languages. The store is downtown near the southern end but most hotels’ reception desks sell stamps To Aeropuerto Inglés
Internacional de SHOPPING
of Tulipanes. and will mail letters. There’s a FedEx office in Cancún (1km); La Isla Shopping Village.........26 C4
Dutch Embassy (1km) Plaza Kukulcán.......................27 C4
the bus terminal (Map p77). To Valladolid (170km);
Emergency Main post office (Map p77; %884-1418; cnr Avs 6 Chichén Itzá (210km);
Mérida (toll only; 330km)
TRANSPORT
Punta American Airlines...................28 D1
Cruz Roja (Red Cross; %884-1616) Xel-Há & Sunyaxchén; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm MEX Blvd
Kuk
Nizuc El Embarcadero Dock.............29 C3
180D ulcá Parque Nacional
Fire (%060) Sat) Downtown at the edge of Mercado 28. You can also (Toll) To Puerto
n Submarino Punta Ferry Service Office.................30 B1
Nizuc Playa Tortugas Dock..............31 C1
Police (Map p75; %060; Blvd Kukulcán) post mail in the red postal boxes sprinkled around town; Morelos (18km); Playa
del Carmen (48km); Xcaret Bus Station..................32 D1
Tourist Police (%885-2277) collection frequency varies. Tulum (110km)
QUINTANA ROO 76 CANCÚN •• Dangers & Annoyances lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com CANCÚN •• Ciudad Cancún 77

QUINTANA ROO
Telephone to just keep walking. As frustrating as this
CIUDAD CANCÚN 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
Phoning by Voice Over Internet Protocol may be, remember that these vendors are just
(VOIP) can be done at most internet cafés. trying to make a living for themselves and A B To Hwy 180 (1km);
Puerto Juárez (4km)
C D
Call Center (Map p77; Av Cobá 5) At Soberanis Hostal. their families. To Hwy 180 (1km);
Mérida (317km)
Offers good rates on international calls and calls to other See p78 for information on Cancún’s water 53
parts of Mexico. hazards. 1 48
Av Flamboyan
Ux
ma
Toilets SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES l MEX
307
Naranja
Many internet cafés have a small bathroom Maya Ruins Flamboyan

Av Tulum
28
in back, free for internet users. Cleanliness There are two sets of Maya ruins in the Zona Chaca
Cereza

Ro le
b
Hotelera and, though neither is particularly

ble
varies. Or strut your way into a hotel lobby

Ro

era
Cereza

Palm

Lau era
restroom. impressive, both are worth a look if time per- Chaca

lm
rel
65 59

Pa
mits. In the Zona Arqueológica El Rey (Map p75; 33 32

Av Yaxchilán
3
25

l
ure
Tourist Information admission M$34; h8am-5pm), on the west side of Punta Allen

La
o 42 44
Cancún Convention & Visitors Bureau (Map p77; Blvd Kukulcán between Km 17 and Km 18, 2 18 Pin
23
Nicchehabi 60 31
%884-6531; Av Cobá; h9am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Fri) there’s a small temple and several ceremonial Rosas
Av Uxmal
This place near Avenida Tulum, Ciudad Cancún, has ample platforms. The other, much smaller, site is 37

nta

Margaritas

Margaritas

Av Náder
Rosas 13
supplies of printed material and usually a fairly Yamil Lu’um (Map p75; admission free), atop a beach-

Pu
12

n
24

ue
knowledgeable English-speaker in attendance. side knoll in the parklike grounds near the 26

q
Azucenas

Yo
Jazmines
State tourism office (Sedetur; Map p77; %884- Sheraton Cancún hotel. Only the outward- Av Sunyaxchén
Park
16 Azucenas
8073; Pecari 23; h9am-9pm Mon-Fri) The Convention sloping remains of the weathered temple’s 39 Jazmines 36 46

Tauch
34 50

Há
54 45
walls still stand, but the ruin makes for a 7

Xel-
& Visitors Bureau’s parent is mysteriously tucked away To Tulipanes Ayuntamiento
Checándole Gladiolas Parque

Av
near Avenida Cobá, a fair walk south of the center, but its pleasant venture, as much for its lovely set- (25m) Las
22
Benito
Juárez
Palapas
information is good and includes all of Quintana Roo. ting as anything else. To reach the site visitors 3 INFORMATION
Gladiolas
Tulipanes
2
American Express.................... 1 C5 10
must pass through either of the hotels flanking

Alcatraces
14 52
Xp Av Banamex..................................2 C3
19 Claveles
Travel Agencies it or approach it from the beach – there is no uji
l Banamex ................................ 3 C2
Bancomer................................4 C3
Orquideas 30
In the Zona Hotelera, most big hotels have direct access from the boulevard. Bancomer................................5 C5
20
Claveles
Orquideas 4
travel agencies. The tiny Maya structure and chac-mool Call Center..........................(see 29) El Tapatío...............................33 B2
Cancún Convention & Visitors Food Stalls.............................34 C3
Nómadas Travel (Map p77; %892-2320; www (Maya sacrificial stone sculpture) in the Bureau.................................6 D4 Irori.......................................35 C6
Crisantemos
9
.nomadastravel.com; Av Cobá 5) Downtown, next to the beautifully kept grounds of the Sheraton hotel Centro Medico Caribe Cancún..7 B3 La Habichuela........................36 B3
Cuban Consulate.....................8 C5 La Parrilla...............................37 B2 Crisantemos
Soberanis Hostal, Nómadas is a student-oriented agency are authentic. Currency Exchange Booths......9 C4 Los de Pescado......................38 C5 15
Fama.....................................10 C3 Mercado 23.........................(see 53) 55
that books and makes changes to air tickets, makes some FedEx...................................(see 60) Mercado 28.........................(see 54) 29
51
reservations for accommodations on the Yucatán Peninsula Museo Inah 4 French Consulate................... 11 D6 Restaurant 100% Natural.......39 B3 Av C
obá 41
Closed for the past two years from Hurricane German Consulate.................12 B2 Rolandi's Restaurant-Bar........40 D4
and offers packages to Cuba, among other services. 40

Av N

Av Bonampak
Instituto Nacional de Santa Clara............................ 41 D4 6
t
Wilma damage (even the museum’s direc- Migración.......................... 13 D2 Taco Cart...............................42 C2
Av X
care Av 63

áder
Cob
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Italian Consulate....................14 C3 Taco Cart.............................(see 49) á

rra
tor doesn’t know when it’ll be opening its

Sie
Lava y Seca............................15 C4 Tatis La Casa del Pan.............43 C5 To Sabor 56

Brisa
The biggest safety danger in Cancún isn’t street doors), Museo Inah (Map p75; % 883-0305; ad- Main Post Office....................16 A3 Ty-Coz..................................44 C2 Latino 57

Av Tulum
(700m) 58
Nómadas Travel...................(see 29)
crime – it’s the streets themselves. Traffic mission M$35; h 9am-8pm Tue-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat &

Nube
64
State Tourism Office..............17 C5 ENTERTAINMENT
speeds by along narrow roads and pedestri- Sun) is on the south side of the Centro de Backstage Theater-Cabaret....45 C3 Jaleb
61 To Zona
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Karamba................................46 C3 5 Hotelera
ans (often drunk) are frequently injured. A Convenciones in the Zona Hotelera. Skulls Nómadas Travel...................(see 29) Mambo Café......................... 47 C6 Tejón
(4km)

night spent clubbing is more likely to lead to exhibiting the deformities caused intention- Picante...................................48 C1 Lluvia
SLEEPING Plaza de Toros....................... 49 D6
a poked eye or twisted ankle than a mugging; ally by Maya parents to beautify their chil- 5 Casa de Huéspedes Punta Roots.....................................50 C3
Tejón
Lluvia Nube
dren are a bit creepy but also on display are Allen..................................18 B2 Parque
however, if anyone does demands money, Hostel El Amigo....................19 C3 SHOPPING
17
Pecari
Agua
don’t argue with them. Most violent incidents jewelry and artifacts. Hotel Antillano.......................20 C3 Chedraui Supermarket...........51 C4 8
43
1
Cielo
Hotel Bonampak.................... 21 D6 Colormax...............................52 C3 Pecari
have involved fights where tourists or locals Hotel Colonial........................22 C3 Mercado 23...........................53 C1 38 Agua Cielo
have actively put themselves in danger. Beaches Hotel El Rey del Caribe..........23 D2 Mercado 28...........................54 A3
Hotel Margaritas....................24 B2 Mercado Municipal Ki-Huic...55 C4 Viento Tierra
Theft of valuables left unattended is a possi- ACCESS Hotel Plaza Caribe.................25 C2
27
bility, but no more so than in other parts of the Under Mexican law you have the right to Hotel Suites Caribe TRANSPORT Viento Tierra
International.......................26 B2 Aeroméxico........................... 56 D4 35 21
world. Use prudence, keeping vital items with walk and swim on every beach in the coun- Hotel Suites Olimpo.............. 27 D6 Airport Bus Stop.................... 57 C4 MEX
Fuego
307 Mar
you or leaving them in a hotel safe, and you’ll try except those within military compounds. Las Palmas Hotel....................28 B1 Aviacsa.................................. 58 D4
Soberanis Hostal.................... 29 C4 Bus Stop................................59 C2 62
avoid problems. Napping sunbathers may In practice, it is difficult to approach many 6 Weary Traveler....................(see 33) Bus Terminal..........................60 C2

Fuego
wake up to find cameras or wallets gone; don’t stretches of beach without walking through Colectivo Taxis to Airport......61 C5
Av Sa
11
EATING Cubana..................................62 C6 yil
leave anything unattended on the beach. the lobby of a hotel, particularly in the Zona Carrillio's Lobster House........30 C3 Magnicharters....................... 63 D4 47
Comercial Mexicana..............31 C2 Mexicana.............................. 64 D5 49
Hawkers can be quite irritating but are not Hotelera. However, as long as you look like a El Rincón Yucateco.................32 B2 Playa Express Buses................65 C2
Plaza Las
Américas
dangerous. The best way to avoid them is tourist (this shouldn’t be hard, right?), you’ll
QUINTANA ROO 78 C A N C Ú N • • C a n c ú n f o r C h i l d re n lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels CANCÚN •• Sleeping 79

QUINTANA ROO
usually be permitted to cross the lobby and snorkeling tour for M$290 and a variety of
proceed to the beach. dive options (including cenote, night and DAY-TRIPPER: THREE GREAT EXCURSIONS FROM CANCÚN
Starting from Ciudad Cancún in the north- nitrox dives), as well as fishing trips, at rea- Go ahead, leave the all-inclusive for a day to check out the world beyond the little yellow wrist-
west, all of Isla Cancún’s beaches are on the sonable prices (one/two tank M$594/740, band. And a quick sustainable travel tip: skip the group tour, using that extra dough to hire
left-hand side of the road (the lagoon is on equipment rental extra). The bilingual a local guide and buy some crafts. Staying the night in your destination will bring even more
your right). The first beaches are Playa Las (English and Spanish) staff are safety ori- money into the local community.
Perlas, Playa Juventud, Playa Linda, Playa ented and environmentally aware; there are
Chichén Iztá (p186) – rent a car so you can take the old highway through Valladolid. Stop in
Langosta, Playa Tortugas and Playa Caracol; Japanese- and Korean-speaking instructors
the small Maya communities along the way for out-of-sight panuchos (tortillas stuffed with
after you round Punta Cancún, the beaches to on call as well.
mashed beans, topped with shredded turkey or chicken and avocado).
the south are Playa Gaviota Azul, Playa Chac-
Mool, Playa Marlin, the long stretch of Playa CENOTES Isla Mujeres (p88) – take the ferry from Puerto Juárez to save money. Check out the turtle
Ballenas, Playa San Miguelito and finally, There are a handful of nice cenotes just farm in the morning, then swing up north to a sweet little swimming spot near the Avalon
at Km 17, Playa Delfines. Delfines is about outside of Puerto Morelos (see p100), along Reef Club.
the only beach with a public parking lot big what tourist-brochure writers are calling the Nuevo Durango and beyond – make your own way through the Maya hinterland as you
enough to be useful; unfortunately, its sand Ruta de Los Cenotes (that’s right, that’s the explore small villages such as Nuevo Durango, and forgotten cenotes that don’t even make it
is coarser and darker than the exquisite fine, Route of the Cenotes). One of the newer into the guidebooks. If you ask nicely, locals will often put you up in a palapa (thatched palm-
white sand of the more northerly beaches. cenote discoveries, Taj Mahal, is south of leaf-roofed shelter). Bring your own hammock and a sense of adventure.
Playa del Carmen. It’s a doable dive, snorkel,
BEACH SAFETY or even a chance to just go ‘wow.’
Cancún’s ambulance services respond to as SLEEPING a cool rooftop terrace kitchen area for swilling
many as a dozen near-drownings per week. CANCÚN FOR CHILDREN Almost all hotels offer discounts in the ‘low’ beers and swapping tales, a big breakfast buf-
The most dangerous beaches seem to be Playa With such easy access to sand, sea and season, but at many places there are up to five fet, lots of guests from around the globe and a
Delfines and Playa Chac-Mool. Though rare, swimming pools, most kids will have a blast different rates: Christmas and New Year are friendly owner. Ask about private rooms for
accidents with kiteboards, paragliders or jet in Cancún. Some hotels offer babysitting or at a premium you can count on, but there are rent down the street.
skis can happen; be aware of other beachgoers day-care services – be sure to check in ad- high rates in March and April for US spring Las Palmas Hotel (Map p77; %884-2513; Palmera
at all times. vance if these are needed. Remember that break, Easter, and even July and August (when 43; dm/d M$100/300; a) A family-run affair, the
Though the surf is usually gentle, un- the sun, strong enough to scald even the locals have their holidays). Ask if there is a Palmas has a clean downstairs dorm room
dertow is a possibility, and sudden storms thickest of tourist hides, can be even more ‘promotion,’ too, as many places may be will- with much-appreciated air-con. There’s
(called nortes) can blacken the sky and sweep damaging for kids or babies: make sure your ing to deal. Many Zona Hotelera spots offer a handful of bright, cheery and affordable
in at any time without warning. A system children are properly protected. internet specials, so it’s best to book ahead of rooms upstairs. Continental breakfast in-
of colored pennants warns beachgoers of If the beach gets boring or you want a time if you want to stay near the beach. cludes freshly squeezed orange juice. If you
potential dangers: change of scene, the theme parks of Xel-Há Wherever possible in the following listings, are looking to get away from the backpacker
Blue Normal, safe conditions. (p120) or Xcaret (p118) make a good day simple low- and high-season prices are de- scene for a bit, then stay here. If not, head over
Red Unsafe conditions; use a swimming pool instead. trip. Xcaret in particular has a highly sus- tailed; more complex schemes are represented to Weary Traveler–landia or the hostels near
Yellow Use caution, changeable conditions. pect environmental record, hardly the ‘eco- by a price range unless otherwise specified; Parque Las Palapas.
paradise’ its brochure touts. For a bit more and peak-season rates may be higher. Hostel El Amigo (Map p77; %892-7056; 29 Alcatrazes;
Water Sports culture, head over to Chichén Itzá (p186) or dm fan/air-con; M$120/140; ai) Right on the cor-
For decent snorkeling, you need to travel to Cobá (p130) for the day. Ciudad Cancún ner of Parque Las Palapas, this small hostel
one of the nearby reefs. Resort hotels, travel BUDGET has shiny new shared rooms, a quiet sitting
agencies and various tour operators in the TOURS ‘Budget’ is a relative term; prices in Cancún are area for postbeach cervezas and, of course, the
area can book you on day-cruise boats that Most hotels and travel agencies work with higher for what you get than most anywhere requisite computers. The dorms have fewer
take snorkelers to the barrier reef, as well companies that offer tours to surrounding else in Mexico. There are many cheap lodging beds than at other hostels, meaning you won’t
as to other good sites in the region. To see attractions. Popular day trips are Chichén options within a few blocks of the bus terminal meet tons of travelers, but will probably get a
the relatively sparse aquatic life off Cancún’s Itzá, Cobá, Tulum, and the theme parks at northwest on Avenida Uxmal. The area around better night’s sleep.
beaches, you can rent equipment for about Xel-Há and Xcaret. Often local touts at the Parque Las Palapas has numerous hostels and Soberanis Hostal (Map p77; %884-4564, 800-101-
M$100 a day from most luxury hotels. Most hotels and agencies are paid only in com- budget digs as well. Hotel hawkers tend to way- 0101; www.soberanis.com.mx; Av Cobá 5; dm/d M$120/590;
of the major resorts rent kayaks and the usual missions, so if you chat with someone and lay anyone exiting the bus station, sometimes i) It’s good value with a nice location, and
water toys; a few make them available to guests decide to take the tour later, be sure to take going so far as to insult people heading to other is a fun place to meet friends. All rooms have
free of charge. the time to find the same person who as- hotels. Just say ‘No’ and keep heading to the very comfortable beds, tiled floors, cable TV
Scuba Cancún (Map p75; %849-5226; www.scuba sisted you or they may not get paid. place you planned on. and nicely appointed bathrooms. Though pri-
cancun.com.mx; Blvd Kukulcán Km 5.2), a family-owned Nómadas Travel (Map p77; % 892-2320; www Weary Traveler (Map p77; %887-0191; www.weary marily a midrange hotel, the Soberanis also
and PADI-certified (Professional Association .nomadastravel.com; Av Cobá 5) is a popular agency travelerhostel.com; Palmera 30; dm fan/air-con M$100/110; has four-bed ‘hostel’ rooms with the same
of Diving Instructors) dive operation with that operates out of the lobby of Soberanis nai) The cramped shared rooms could amenities as the regular rooms, including a
many years of experience, was the first Hostal downtown. It offers a choice of reason- use a bit of work, but the Weary Traveler has free continental breakfast. The cafeteria serves
dive shop in Cancún. It offers a Cancún ably priced packages to popular destinations. all the basic ingredients to make a good hostel: affordable lunches and dinners and the hotel
QUINTANA ROO 80 CANCÚN •• Sleeping Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels CANCÚN •• Eating 81

QUINTANA ROO
also has a bar, internet facilities (per hour Hotel Bonampak (Map p77; %884-0280; www.hotel a sofa bed) and satellite TV, a kitchen and modern, expressionist-inspired hotel. It won’t
M$10), a phone center, a tour agency and also bonampak.com; Av Bonampak 225 SM4; r M$690; ais) 1½ bathrooms. Bring some friends to save suit everyone, but if you prefer clean lines
a student-oriented travel agency. Not a speck of character, but this motel is money. This gleaming white hotel also has over your standard Cancún baroque, then
oHotel Colonial (Map p77; %884-1535; Calle good value: the pool is sunny, the wide stair- a pool and restaurant surrounded by Brady Me is the place for you. Only half the rooms
Tulipanes 22; d fan/air-con M$350/450; a) Perhaps the ways are airy and fresh, the rooms are spotless Bunch–inspired astroturf. have ocean views, and it just ain’t worth it
best buy in its price range, the Colonial has and many have small balconies. Ask for a Grand Royal Lagoon (Map p75; %883-2749; www to pay this much and not have a view of the
a central courtyard, superclean rooms with room overlooking the pool to avoid the road .grlagoon.com; Quetzal 8A; r & studio M$900; as ) A Caribbean blue.
traditional textile bedspreads, and a pleasant noise. There’s wi-fi in the lobby. breezy place with cable TV and safes; most Riu Caribe (Map p75; %848-7850; www.riu.com;
central courtyard. Get a room toward the back Hotel Suites Caribe Internacional (Map p77; %884- rooms have two double beds, while some have Blvd Kukulcán Km 5.5; s low/high season M$1900/2140, d
as the street noise in this party district can be 3999; www.caribeinternacional.com; cnr Avs Sunyaxchén & kings. Some studios come with a kitchenette M$2690/3860; nais) Riu rules the Riviera
a bit much. Yaxchilán; d/tr M$790/840; ais) This six-story and balcony, and an outdoor ping-pong table Maya – they’re everywhere. This particular
Casa de Huéspedes Punta Allen (Map p77; %884- hotel boasts 80 rooms with cable TV. The makes for fun. The hotel has a small pool, and Riu has 541 rooms (all with ocean views), in-
0225; www.puntaallen.da.ru; Punta Allen 8; s/d M$400/450) junior suites have two comfortable beds, a guests have use of the Fat Tuesday beach club. cluding 60 junior suites, and a family-friendly
On a side street that’s a bit dicey after dark, sofa and kitchenette. Amenities include secure The hotel is 100m off Blvd Kukulcán Km 7.7. atmosphere. All come with private terraces
this friendly, family-run guesthouse has ample parking, a small pool in an agreeable court- that overlook a dazzling swimming pool and
rooms, spotless tiles and nice bathrooms. yard, and a restaurant and bar. Rates are often TOP END 200m of beach. The lobby is gorgeous, with
From Avenida Uxmal, walk south along negotiable here; try asking for a discount. All of the resorts described below are in the a nice view of the water, pretty tiled floors
Avenida Yaxchilán and take the first right. Hotel Plaza Caribe (Map p77; %884-1377, in the Zona Hotelera and border the Caribbean. and stained-glass ceiling. Prices listed are all-
USA 866-294-8514; www.hotelplazacaribe.com; Calle Pino; Guestrooms come equipped with air-con inclusive; room-only rates are not available.
MIDRANGE d M$840-990; as) Directly across from the and satellite TV, and many have balconies
Midrange in Cancún is a two-tiered category; bus terminal between Avenidas Tulum and with sea views. Many hotels offer all-inclusive EATING
the Ciudad Cancún area is much cheaper than Uxmal, this all-business hotel offers 166 com- packages, often at reasonable rates if you’re Ciudad Cancún
the Zona Hotelera and only a short R-1 bus fortable rooms with full amenities, including willing to forgo eating or entertainment else- Restaurants in Ciudad Cancún range from
ride away from the Zona’s beaches. a pool and restaurant. Rooms have white-tile where. Often the best room rates are available ultra-Mexican taco joints to fairly expensive
Hotel Suites Olimpo (Map p77; %884-0875; www floors and comfy beds; baths are clean but through booking hotel-and-airfare packages: eateries.
.hotelolimpo.com.mx; Av Bonampak 221 SM4; s/d M$450/600; overchlorinated. The palapa (thatched, palm- shop around.
ai) Beds are a bit sproingy, but the rooms leaf-covered shelter) bar is a nice place to sip Ambiance Villas Kin-Ha (Map p75; %891-5400; www BUDGET
are clean and include phone and cable TV. a drink on a hot day. .ambiancevillas.com; Blvd Kukulcán Km 8; r M$1460/1570; Cancún’s downtown area has lots of good
Some have kitchenettes, and some are nois- naisc) A great family spot, Kin-Ha budget eats. Mercados 23 and 28 have a
ier than others. It’s right across from Hotel TOP END offers day care and babysitting, plus a ‘kids’ number of tiny eateries, and Parque Las
Bonampak, and there’s a rambling, rather Hotel Margaritas (Map p77; %884-9333, 800-537-8483; club’ designed to let parents relax while the Palapas has some food stands. Few nonalco-
scraggly green area around the corner. www.margaritascancun.com; cnr Avs Yaxchilán & Jazmines; kids are occupied. You’ll never need to leave holic options beat cantaloupe or watermelon
Hotel Antillano (Map p77; %884-1132, 800-288-7000; s & d M$1300, tr M$1500; as) The curvaceous the hotel’s grounds (though we think you juices; ask for agua de melón or agua de san-
www.hotelantillano.com; Claveles 1; d M$500-700; as) swimming pool is eye-catching. The 100 should), as there are 136 big rooms and suites dia and you’ll feel like you’re sipping chilled
A large beige shoebox with a groovy-groupie- guestrooms are clean but musty, so check and in five buildings in this rolling complex. All rainbow juice.
bebop feel just off Avenida Tulum, this is a see if one with a balcony is available. If so, they rooms feature a balcony and two double beds Los de Pescado (Map p77; Av Tulum 32; meals M$16-75;
very pleasant and quiet place with a relax- air out nicely. This place is across the street or one king-sized bed…or you can just use the h10am-5:30pm) It’s easy to order at this res-
ing lobby, nice pool, good central air-con from the Suites Caribe and also sports six beachside mattresses. There are bars, markets, taurant as there are only two choices: cevi-
and cable TV. Rooms on Avenida Tulum are floors. There’s a (pricey) restaurant, a decent travel and car-rental agencies and more on the che or tacos. Knock either back with a beer
noisier than those in the back. Rates include bar, Jacuzzi and helpful staff. premises. Prices listed are for European plans, or two, and you’ll see why this is one of the
a welcome drink, continental breakfast and a but you can arrange an all-inclusive stay. best budget spots in Ciudad Cancún. With its
Zona Hotelera beach pass. Zona Hotelera Hilton Cancún (Map p75; %881-8000; www.hilton thatched roof, you can tell the owners take a
oHotel El Rey del Caribe (Map p77; %884- MIDRANGE .com; Blvd Kukulcán Km 17; d M$1700; ais) This certain pride in their work – that’s why this
2028; www.reycaribe.com; cnr Avs Uxmal & Náder; d M$630- Hotels near Blvd Kukulcán in the Zona used to be one of the granddaddies of the is always the most crowded restaurant on
820; nasc) El Rey is a true eco-tel that Hotelera are close to cheap, convenient trans- strip, but lately it’s being upstaged by young the block.
composts, employs solar collectors and cis- portation. Both the following hotels are on upstarts such as the Melia. Still, you get seven Santa Clara (Map p77; %884-9548; Av Bonampak
terns, uses gray water on the gardens and Laguna Nichupté rather than the sea. cascading pools, a beautiful Zen-inspired gar- 157; cones M$30-40; h9am-10pm) There’s a pleas-
even has a few composting toilets. This is a Sina Suites (Map p75; %883-1017; www.cancun den spa, and yoga on the beach. The blue-and- ant patio at this little café specializing in ice
beautiful spot with jungly courtyard, azure sinasuites.com.mx; Quetzal 33; ste M$800-2000; as) turquoise bed throws are attractive, matching cream. It also serves coffee and various sweet
swimming pool and small Jacuzzi. Many of the Right on the lagoon, this is a great deal in the ocean view outside. And the price is right – dishes. There’s milk and cheese as well, all
31 rooms have a fully equipped kitchenette; all low season, when prices drop by as much even in high season. locally produced.
have comfortable beds, hairdryers and safes as 20%. The hotel was completely renovated Me by Melia (Map p75; %881-2500; www.mebymelia Ty-Coz (Map p77; %884-6060; Av Tulum; sandwiches
(you can use your own lock). Two children after Hurricane Wilma, and its 36 spacious .com; Blvd Kukulcán Km 12; d low/high season M$1780/3200; M$30-40; h9am-11pm Mon-Sat) A bakery-café just
under 11 can stay for free, and it offers good suites are still lookin’ good: each with two nais) ‘Enough about you, let’s talk north of the Comercial Mexicana supermar-
prices in low season. double beds, a separate living room (with about me!’ That’s the philosophy at this uber- ket. It has granite tabletops and a pleasing
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Irori (Map p77; %892-3072; Av Tulum 226; rolls M$50- Village, Plaza Flamingo and the Forum Mall
STRETCH YOUR BUDGET 100, nigiri pair M$30-70, teppanyaki meals M$100-340; (all Map p75) hold other options to get a
For self-catering, try Comercial Mexicana (Map p77; cnr Avs Tulum & Uxmal), a centrally located h1-11pm Mon-Sat, 1-7pm Sun; c) Enjoy the show bite, including pizzas and burgers. There’s a
supermarket close to the bus station. It has a good selection of produce, meats, cheeses and as the chef slices and dices the night away Checándole in Plaza Flamingo.
cookies. at this Japanese-run restaurant serving sushi Las Fajitas (Map p75; Blvd Kulkulcán Km 7.5; mains
The main market is set back from the street, west of the post office. Its official name is long; and many other Japanese favorites in an in- M$12-75; h7am-8pm Mon-Sat, 7am-5pm Sun) It offers
locals simply call it Mercado Veintiocho (Mercado 28; Map p77). Another market, Mercado 23 timate and nicely decorated setting. There’s a complete breakfast for just M$30, and you
(Map p77), is a bit north of the bus station and offers inexpensive, nontouristy shopping. Most even a kids’ menu if you’ve got sushi-scoffing can get fresh mahimahi (a type of fish) fillets
eateries are in the inner courtyard and open from about 7:30am to 6pm daily. rugrats in tow. for M$75 (they worked out a deal with a local
Inexpensive Mexican food can also be found at the food stalls in the northeast corner of diver to get fresh fish) – not a bad deal for
Parque Las Palapas, and at two good taco carts operating in the evening – one at the north TOP END the Zona Hotelera. But there’s a catch: it’s
edge of the Comercial Mexicana parking lot (across Avenida Tulum from the bus terminal) and Restaurants in this category offer better value roadfront on Blvd Kulkulcán, meaning you’ll
the other at the southeast edge of the Plaza de Toros (Bullring) parking lot, at Avenidas Sayil than those in the Zona Hotelera. be sucking down more exhaust than cerveza.
and Bonampak. Carrillo’s Lobster House (Map p77; %884-1227; Still, it’s the best budget spot on the strip!
Claveles 35; shrimp & fish dishes M$120-200, lobster dishes
M$380) Try Carrillo’s Plato Cozumel if you’re MIDRANGE
ambience, and serves good coffee, baguettes and chicken dishes. The on-site bakery looking for something a bit special. This The Zona Hotelera is a vast swath of mainly Tex
and croissants, as well as sandwiches made turns out whole-wheat products, and the somewhat formal restaurant has air-con in- Mex–style places catering to the just-flew-in
with a variety of meats and cheeses. There’s entire place is very nicely decorated and doors and is fan-cooled outdoors, and enter- crowd. Prices are higher and quality is generally
also a spot near Km 7.5 on Blvd Kulkulkán. landscaped. Service is excellent – at times tainment is provided by mariachis. Follow the lower than what you’ll find in Ciudad Cancún.
Tatis La Casa del Pan (Map p77; %892-3877; cnr Pecari even too attentive. good smells leading to the blue building and A number of places cater to a young crowd,
& Av Tulum; breakfast M$35-50, sandwiches & light dishes oChecándole (Map p77; %884-7147; Av Xpujil you’ll be in the right place. with conga lines where waiters cheer and pour
M$30-60; h7am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7am-3pm Sat) Friendly 6 SM 27; mains M$50-130; hnoon-8pm) If you can oLa Habichuela (Map p77; %884-3158; watery tequila down dancers’ throats as they
and fun, with art on the walls and a great only eat at one restaurant in Cancún, then Margaritas 25; mains M$150-420) An elegant restau- weave by. So you’ll either want to head for or
selection of wholesome fare. Come here for you should eat here. It’s a bit away from the rant with a lovely courtyard dining area, just away from Señor Frog’s (Map p75; Blvd Kukulcán Km
coffee and espresso that might be your last city center, but well worth the extra effort. off Parque Las Palapas. The specialty is shrimp 9.8; dishes M$100-200) and Carlos ’n Charlie’s (Map p75;
good cup of coffee before heading off into the Dressed up with a palapa roof, Checándole and lobster in curry sauce served inside a Blvd Kukulcán Km 5.5; dishes M$100-180) for that kind of
rest of Yucatán. The crêpes are delicioso. specializes in chilango (Mexico City) cuisine. coconut with tropical fruit, but almost any- dining experience.
El Tapatío (Map p77; %887-8317; cnr Avs Uxmal & The menu del día (fixed three-course meal) is thing on the menu is delicious. The seafood
Palmera; dishes M$40-90, set meals M$35; h9am-11:30pm) just M$45 – great value. If it’s offering pollo ceviche and tapa al ajillo (potatoes in garlic) TOP END
Touristy but good – a popular choice for en mole poblano (chicken smothered in a are mouthwatering. The gorgeous aquarium ‘Pay-per-view’ takes on a whole different
hostel-goers, who suck down the mammoth handmade chocolate and chili sauce), you in the lobby makes for a very attractive wait meaning in the Zona Hotelera. Though there
fruit and veggie juices, shakes and smoothies should definitely go for it. (reservations are advised). Finish with lime are many establishments in this category, their
at any time of day. Rolandi’s Restaurant-Bar (Map p77; %884-4040; Av sorbet splashed with Xtabentún, a Yucatecan prices sometimes reflect their location and
El Rincón Yucateco (Map p77; Av Uxmal 24; dishes M$40- Cobá 12; mains M$70-140; h1pm-12:30am) A Swiss- anise-flavored liqueur. what’s outside the window more than the
100; hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat) A reasonably priced Italian eatery with a wood-fired pizza oven, quality of food.
Yucatecan place that’s across from Hotel between Avenidas Tulum and Náder just off Zona Hotelera La Dolce Vita (Map p75; %885-0161; www.cancun
Cotty, serving a nice variety of favorites along the southern roundabout. It serves elaborate BUDGET italianrestaurant.com; Blvd Kukulcán Km 14.6; pizzas
with very weak ‘American’-style coffee. Sopa pizzas, spaghetti plates and a range of north- For budget eats in the Zona Hotelera, try the M$125-150, mains M$145-450; h noon-11pm) One
de lima (‘lime soup’; chicken soup with lime) ern Italian dishes. food courts at any large mall. La Isla Shopping of Cancún’s fanciest Italian restaurants, it
is light: a good option for anyone nursing a La Parrilla (Map p77; %884-8193; Av Yaxchilán 51;
stomach problem (or a hangover). mains M$70-370; hnoon-2am) Any Cancún eatery
founded before the saccharine 1980s gets to VANESSA’S PICKS
MIDRANGE call itself venerable. And La Parrilla (founded Despite all our ‘authority and attitude,’ Lonely Planet authors will never know the local dining
As with budget restaurants, the Ciudad in 1975) should get a capital ‘V.’ A traditional scene as well as the locals themselves. That’s why we got together with Cancún local Vanessa
Cancún area has a wider variety of midpriced Mexican restaurant popular with locals and Trava and 10 of her closest friends to see where Cancún’s young professionals choose to dine.
places than the Zona Hotelera. tourists alike, it serves a varied menu from Call ahead for reservations.
Restaurant 100% Natural (Cien por Ciento Natural; all over Mexico, with Yucatecan specialties La Barbacoa de la Tulum If you love tacos, head to this cheap cantina in the Plaza de Toros.
Map p77; %884-0102; Av Sunyaxchén; mains M$40-150; thrown in. Try the tasty calamares al mojo de La Favola (%889-9180) Exquisite Italian dining.
h7am-11pm; v) Vegetarians and health-food ajo (squid in garlic sauce), steaks or sautéed La Troje (%887-9556) It’s muy caro (expensive), but the excellent international cuisine is worth it.
nuts delight at this health-food chain near grouper. Mole (a Spanish sauce) enchiladas Manyee (%881-5900) Go for the delicious wraps.
Avenida Yaxchilán, which serves juice blends and delicious piña coladas both run about Marakame Café (%887-1010) For international flavor with live music.
(try the ‘Crazy Yog’ or the ‘Vampiro’), a M$60. If you’re lucky, a waiter will serve you Mocambo (%883-0398) For fresh seafood.
wide selection of yogurt-fruit-vegetable beer, balancing it on his head from the bar Salute (%881-5556) An eclectic mix of Mediterranean and Mexican fare.
combinations, and brown rice, pasta, fish to your table.
QUINTANA ROO 84 CANCÚN •• Enter tainment lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com CANCÚN •• Shopping 85

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offers white wicker chairs and soft, roman- Roots (Map p77; %884-2437; Tulipanes 26; admission
tic lighting, plus great lagoon views and at- Fri & Sat M$50; h6pm-1am Mon-Sat) Pretty much the INSIDE THE SEEDY SEX-TOURISM TRADE
tentive staff. Try the chicken with sun-dried hippest bar in Ciudad Cancún, Roots features In recent years an alarming number of tourists are visiting Mexico not for the beaches and
tomatoes and finish with crêpes Suzette (for jazz, reggae or rock bands and the occasional booze, but for the brothels.
two). With a bottle of red, white or rosé flamenco guitarist. It’s also a pretty decent As if this weren’t bad enough, now Mexico is being used as a bridge to bring sex slaves, often
this could be the start or the finish of a restaurant, serving pasta, salads, seafood and underage, into the US, Japan and other developed countries, according to reports by Reuters.
wonderful day. meat dishes, with main dishes running M$80 Depending on what news source you look at, there are as many as 5000 child sex slaves in
Crab House (Map p75; %885-3936; Blvd Kukulcán to M$160. Thursday seems to be the best night Mexico – calling them prostitutes just makes it sound too much on the up-and-up. The age
Km 14.8; dishes M$140-200; h1-11:30pm) Offers a for catching nice tunes with a crowd. of consent varies from region to region based on local laws, but is as low as 12 in some areas
lovely view of the lagoon that complements Mambo Café (Map p77; %887-7891; Plaza Las Américas; and under certain circumstances (people in the countryside get married young). On the whole,
the seafood. The long menu includes many admission women/men M$30/50; h10pm-6am Thu-Sun) however, the general trend is toward creating a higher age of consent of 18 years. Prostitution is
shrimp and fillet-of-fish dishes. Crab and Upstairs from the food court in the middle legal in most parts of the country (prostitutes must be 18 or older); however, this hasn’t stopped
lobster are priced by the pound. of the huge mall on the southern stretch of pedophilia rings from profiteering in the trade of children.
Matachi Seaside Grill (Map p75; %881-8047; Blvd Avenida Tulum. It features live salsa, Cuban Things may be changing. New laws in the US have made it possible to prosecute Americans
Kukulcán Km 17; mains M$220-450) The Matachi is a and other Caribbean music and is very popu- who have had sex with children even if it occurred outside of its borders. And public awareness
stylish, intimate place inside the Hilton, right lar with Cancún’s young people. Thursday is of and indignation about this issue has grown, even in Mexico.
on the beach. It offers a variety of Mexican ladies’ night.
and Asian-inspired cuisine, seafood, sushi Sabor Latino (off Map p77; %892-1916; cnr Avs
and other creative dishes. It also has one of Xcaret & Tankah; admission women/men M$40/60, Wed free; If you’re serious about your partying, con- jumbo Jacuzzi that’s made to look a bit like a
the best views in town. h10:30pm-6am, closed Sun-Tue low season) On the 2nd sider a ‘Party Hopper Package,’ available at cenote but is really just a showcase for bikini-
Lorenzillo’s (Map p75; %883-1254; Blvd Kukulcán floor of Chinatown Plaza, this is another hap- most of the lobby tour offices or at other travel clad staff to splash around. Look for the giant
Km 10.5; mains M$190-440; h1pm-12:30am) Reputed pening club. Its live acts feature Dominican agents downtown. Usually M$400 to M$500 bulldog sign outside and you’ll know you’ve
by locals to be Cancún’s best seafood res- salsa and other tropical styles. will buy all you can drink at four or five of found the right place.
taurant, Lorenzillo’s gives you 19 separate Karamba (Map p77; %884-0032; cnr Azucenas & Av the popular clubs; some packages include
choices for your lobster presentation, in- Tulum; h10pm-6am Thu-Sun) A venerable standby van transportation. Cinemas
cluding a taste-bud-popping chipotle plum above the Club Sandwich Café, it has frequent The following four clubs are clustered along Cinemark (Map p75; %883-5603; La Isla Shopping Village)
and tamarind sauce. Facing the lagoon, it’s drink specials. Admission ranges from free to the northwest-bound side of Blvd Kukulcán, In general, Hollywood movies are shown in
a good sunset joint. M$70. Come here for a varied crowd of gays, all within easy stumbling distance of each English with Spanish subtitles; however,
lesbians and cross-dressers. other. Be careful crossing the street. English-language children’s movies are usu-
ENTERTAINMENT Picante (Map p77; Av Tulum 20; h9pm-6am) Set Coco Bongo (Map p75; %883-5061; Forum Mall; ally dubbed in Spanish. Ticket prices run
Many of the clubs and restaurants are open back from Avenida Tulum a few blocks north h10:30pm-5am) This is often the venue for about M$40 for children and adults.
for drinks for much of the day. of Avenida Uxmal, this place isn’t as ‘spicy’ as MTV’s coverage of spring break, and tends
its name suggests, but it is a longtime neigh- to be a happening venue just about any day SHOPPING
Clubs borhood gay bar. It often features movies of the week. The club opens with celebrity im- Neither Ciudad Cancún nor the Zona Hotelera
CIUDAD CANCÚN shown at high volume until about 1am, when personators, dancers and circus acts (clowns, fits the bill as a bargain-hunter’s paradise –
Ciudad Cancún clubs are generally mellower the dance music comes on. acrobats and the like) for an hour or so, then still, Cancún can be a great place to shop for
than those in the rowdy Zona Hotelera. Stroll Built into the Plaza de Toros (Bullring; Map p77; cnr the rock, pop and hip-hop start playing. souvenirs and jewelry.
along Avenida Yaxchilán down to Parque Las Avs Bonampak & Sayil) are several bars, some with Dady’O (Map p75; %800-234-9797; Blvd Kukulcán Plaza Kukulcán (Map p75; Blvd Kukulcán Km 13) The
Palapas and you are sure to run into some- music, that draw a largely local crowd. Km 9; h10pm-4:30am) Opposite the Forum Mall, largest (and definitely among the stuffiest,
thing (or somebody) you like. this is one of Cancún’s more elaborate dance attitude-wise) of the indoor malls is chichi
ZONA HOTELERA clubs. The setting is a five-level black-walled Plaza Kukulcán. Of note here is the huge art
The club scene in the Zona Hotelera is faux cave with a two-level dance floor and gallery (taking up nearly half of the 2nd floor);
GAY & LESBIAN CANCÚN young, loud and booze-oriented – the kind what seem like zillions of laser beams and the many stores selling silverwork; and La
that often has an MC urging women to dis- strobes. The predominant beats are Latin, Ruta de las Indias, a shop featuring wooden
Cancún is well known for its lively gay and
play body parts to hooting and hollering house, techno, trance and hip-hop, and the models of Spanish galleons and replicas of
lesbian scene (though there’s more for gay
crowds. Carlos ’n Charlie’s and Señor Frog’s crowd is mainly 20-something. conquistadors’ weaponry and body armor.
men than women), meaning there’s plenty
to do most nights. Here’s but a pinch of
(both p83) have dancing in the evenings. Dady Rock (Map p75; %883-3333; Blvd Kukulcán Km 9; But all is not lost; the plaza has a bowling alley
what’s out there.
Most of the dance clubs charge around h5:30pm-3:30am) A steamy rock-and-roll club and a large food court.
Backstage Theater-Cabaret (Map p77;
M$200 admission, which may include two – it plays techno on occasion – next door La Isla Shopping Village (Map p75; Blvd Kukulcán
or three drinks; admission with open-bar to Dady’O and attracting a slightly older Km 12) Unique among the island’s malls, this
%887-9106; Tulipanes 30) Backstage features
drag shows, strippers (male and female), fashion privileges (ie drink all you want) is M$200 crowd than its neighbor. Admission is free is an indoor-outdoor place with canals, an
shows and musicals. Terrific ambience, joyful crowd. to M$250, rising to M$400 to M$500 dur- until 10pm. aquarium, ultramodern parasol structures
Karamba (right) Popular with cross-dressers.
ing spring break. Though some clubs open Bulldog Café (Map p75; %883-1133, ext 544; Blvd and enough other visual distractions to keep
Picante (right) More for talkers than dancers.
as early as 5:30pm, most don’t get hopping Kukulcán Km 9; h10pm-late) Bills itself as ‘the home even the most inveterate hater of shopping
much before midnight. of rock and roll,’ and features live bands and a amused. For tipplers on your list, consider
QUINTANA ROO 86 C A N C Ú N • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C A N C Ú N • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 87

QUINTANA ROO
picking up a bottle of Xtabentún, a Yucatecan the Cuban national airline, has daily flights
anise-flavored liqueur. as well. BUS SERVICES FROM CANCÚN
Mercado Municipal Ki-Huic (Map p77; Av Tulum) This Aviacsa, a regional carrier based in Tuxtla Destination Cost (M$) Duration (hr) Departures
warren of stalls and shops carries a wide vari- Gutiérrez, has direct flights from Cancún to
ety of souvenirs and handicrafts. Mexico City (one way M$887, two hours), with Chetumal 210 5½-6½ many buses
Colormax (Map p77; %887-4625; Av Tulum 22; h9am- connections for Oaxaca, Tapachula (M$1780, Chichén Itzá 140 3-4 hourly 2nd-class Oriente buses 5am-5pm
9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) Colormax, just north five hours), Tuxtla Gutiérrez (M$1900, five Chiquilá 70 3½ Mayab buses at 7:50am & 12:40pm, Noreste buses at
(for Isla Holbox) 1:45pm
of Calle Claveles, offers a wide assortment of hours) and Villahermosa (M$1750, four Felipe Carrillo Puerto 130 3½-4 8 1st-class Ado buses & hourly 2nd-class Mayab buses
film. It does developing as well. hours), as well as points in central and Mérida 200-270 4-6 15 UNO & ADO GL buses, hourly 2nd-class Oriente buses
Locals head to either Mercado 28 (Map northern Mexico. (5am-5pm)
p77) or Mercado 23 (Map p77) for clothes, Magnicharters flies direct to Monterrey, Mexico City 1060 24 2 ADO buses
shoes, inexpensive food stalls, hardware items Mexico City, Guadalajara and León. (Terminal Norte)
and so on. Of the two, Mercado 23 is the least Taca Airlines flies from Cancún direct Mexico City (TAPO) 1100 22-24 1 ADO & 4 ADO GL buses
frequented by tourists. If you’re looking for a to Flores, Guatemala (round-trip M$2540, Palenque 490 12-13 4 buses
place without corny T-shirts, this is the place two hours), connecting to points in Central Playa del Carmen 34 1-1¼ Riviera every 15min 5am-midnight, many Playa Express &
to go. America several times a week. Mayab buses; see also buses to the airport, p88
Across Avenida Tulum from Colormax is If you intend to fly from Cancún to other Puerto Morelos 12-17 Use Playa del Carmen buses
the Chedraui supermarket (Map p77); the parts of Mexico, reserve your airline seat Ticul 190-220 6 6 Mayab buses
upstairs clothing department here sometimes ahead of time to avoid any unpleasant sur- Tizimín 85 3-4 9 2nd-class Noreste & Mayab buses
has souvenir-grade items at very affordable prises. The following airlines are represented Tulum 62 2¼-3 many Riviera, Playa Express & other buses
prices. in Cancún: Valladolid 110 2-3 many buses
Aeroméxico (Map p77; %287-1868; Av Cobá 80) Just Villahermosa 540 12 11 buses
Xcaret 30 1½ many buses; uses Playa Express or Mayab buses
GETTING THERE & AWAY west of Avenida Bonampak.
(bus will leave you 1km from Xcaret’s main gate)
Air American Airlines (Map p75; %800-904-6000; Hotel
Cancún’s Aeropuerto Internacional de Cancún (off Fiesta Americana Coral Beach, Blvd Kukulcán Km 8.7) Has
Map p77; %886-0047) is the busiest in southeast- an airport counter as well. are ferries to Cozumel from Cancún, you Noreste buses vary in quality; some are
ern Mexico. The airport has a few ATMs: the Aviacsa (Map p77; %887-4214; Av Cobá 39) Also has an are better off getting there from Playa del pretty shabby indeed.
best place to change money is the Banamex airport counter. Carmen’s dock. The staff at the ADO/Riviera informa-
bank along the back wall outside the domestic Azteca (%886-0831) Airport counter. See p95 for details of boats to Isla Mujeres tion counter in the bus terminal provide
baggage-claim area (behind the coffee shop); Click Mexicana (%884-2000) Airport counter. and p98 for boats to Isla Holbox. good information on many of the bus serv-
it has an ATM and offers good exchange rates. Continental Airlines (%886-0006, 800-900-5000; ices and are available 24 hours. The table
Opposite the bank are (inconvenient) pay-in- www.continental.com) Airport counter. Bus (above) shows some of the major routes
advance baggage lockers costing M$70 for Copa (%886-0653) Airport counter. Cancún’s modern bus terminal occupies the serviced daily.
24 hours (a tip is appreciated, but optional). Cubana (Map p77; %887-7210; Av Tulum) wedge formed where Avenidas Uxmal and
There’s wi-fi access and a free, Spanish-only Delta Airlines (%800-123-4710, 886-0668) Airport Tulum meet. Upon leaving you’ll be asked
public internet terminal that has sticky, counter. by every taxi driver if you want a ride; you’ll Car
punch-button keys. Magnicharters (Map p77; %884-0600; Av Náder 93) also be approached by hotel hawkers pushing Rental-car agencies with facilities at the air-
Cancún is served by many direct interna- Mexicana de Aviación (Map p77; %881-9090, 800- ‘deals.’ Despite this, it’s a safe area and you’ll port include: Alamo (%886-0179), Avis (%886-
tional flights; for more information see p266. 801-2010; Av Cobá 39) 800-801-2010 be fine walking around. Across Pino from 0222), Budget (%884-6955), Dollar (%886-0179)
Between Mexicana de Aviación and its sub- Northwest (%800-907-4700) Airport counter. the bus terminal, a few doors from Avenida and Hertz (%884-1326). You can receive bet-
sidiary, Click Mexicana, there is at least one Taca Airlines (%886-0008; www.taca.com) Airport Tulum, is the ticket office and miniterminal ter rates if you reserve ahead of time, but
and up to eight daily flights to each of the counter. of Playa Express, which runs air-conditioned it doesn’t hurt to do comparison shop-
following destinations: Mexico City (one way United Airlines (%800-003-0777; www.united.com) buses down the coast to Tulum approxi- ping after arriving and before signing your
M$1350, 2¼ hours), Oaxaca ($1700, direct, Airport counter. mately every half-hour until early evening, original agreement.
four hours), Tuxtla Gutiérrez (M$2168, one US Airways (%800-007-8800; www.usairways.com) stopping at major towns and points of inter- You’re better off leaving the rental car
stop, six hours), Villahermosa (M$1699, one Airport counter. est along the way. Riviera covers the same parked inside Cancún and walking or catch-
stop, 2½ hours) and Mérida (M$2698, direct, ground with its 1st-class (though not neces- ing a bus to most places in town till you’re
one hour). Click Mexicana offers flights daily Boat sarily better) service. ready to get out of town. Be warned also
to Mérida, and six to Cozumel. It also flies There are several points of embarkation to ADO (%884-5542) sets the 1st-class standard, that Hwy 180D, the 238km cuota (toll road)
twice daily to Havana, Cuba (round-trip only, reach Isla Mujeres from Cancún by boat. while UNO, ADO GL and Super Expresso running much of the way between Cancún
M$3198), but you can get better package deals From Punta Sam (off Map p77) costs M$15, provide luxury services. Mayab provides and Mérida, costs M$329 for the distance
through local travel agents. US visitors head- Puerto Juárez (Map p75) costs M$35, and good ‘intermediate class’ (modern, air-con and has only two exits before the end. The
ing to Cuba should pay particular attention leaving from the Zona Hotelera (Map p75) buses, tending to make more stops than 1st first, at Valladolid, costs M$194 to reach
to the recent US crackdown on agencies and costs about M$70. You’ll need to head to class) to many points. Oriente’s 2nd-class from Cancún and the second, at Pisté (for
visitors organizing trips to Cuba. Cubana, Chiquilá to get to Isla Holbox. While there air-con buses often depart and arrive late. Chichén Itzá), is an additional M$48.
QUINTANA ROO 88 N O R T H O F C A N C Ú N • • I s l a M u j e re s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H O F C A N C Ú N • • I s l a M u j e re s 89

QUINTANA ROO
GETTING AROUND 9pm (but check beforehand), charge M$20 to do and see than in chiller-than-thou
ISLA MUJERES 0
0
1 km
0.5 miles
To/From the Airport per person and leave when full. The official Holbox. Sure, there’s quite a few ticky-tack
White TTC buses to Ciudad Cancún (M$80) rate for private taxis from town is M$200. tourist shops, but folks still get around by
leave the airport about every 20 minutes between golf cart and the crushed-coral beaches are
5:30am and 11:30pm, stopping in both the do- Bus better than those of Cozumel or Holbox. See Isla Mujeres
Town Map (p91)
mestic and international terminals. A straight To reach the Zona Hotelera from Ciudad The little island lies just north of Cancún
Punta Norte
line drawn from the exit of the international Cancún, catch any bus with ‘R1,’ ‘Hoteles’ or and is an ideal day trip or a destination in its
arrivals terminal (past all the vans) reaches the ‘Zona Hotelera’ displayed on the windshield own right. There’s not much here and that’s the Ultrafreeze
small lot and its ticket booth decorated with a as it travels along Avenida Tulum toward whole point: come to bask in quiet shallows or Av
Ru
Coca-Cola sign. Once in town, the buses travel Avenida Cobá, then eastward on Avenida stretch out on the sand, to snorkel or scuba dive, eda
Me
Cobá. The one-way fare is M$6.50, but since din
up Avenida Tulum and will stop most any- or just to put the sunglasses on and open that a CARIBBEAN
where you ask. One central stop is across from change is often unavailable this varies be- book you’ve been dying to finish. Come sunset,
Ferries to SEA
the Chedraui supermarket on Avenida Cobá tween M$6 and M$7. Having correct change there’s plenty of tasty options for your dinner, Punta Sam (6km);
Puerto
(not to be confused with the Chedraui further in advance makes things easier. and the nightlife scene moves at a good clip. Juárez (10km)

south in Plaza Las Américas). To reach Puerto Juárez and the Isla Mujeres The Pintando Isla Mujeres program

)
(13km
Airstrip
Going to the airport from Ciudad Cancún, ferries, catch a Ruta 13 (‘Pto Juárez’ or ‘Punta has invited 400 artists from all around the
Sam’; M$4) bus heading north on Avenida world to paint many of the town’s buildings,

ancún
the same TTC airport buses (Aeropuerto
Centro) head south on Avenida Tulum. You Tulum. Some R1 buses make this trip as well; brightening up the streets and making for

lera, C
can flag them down anywhere it’s feasible, tickets cost M$6.50. fun walks. Laguna
Makax

te
Salina
from well north of the bus terminal to well

na Ho
Grande
Bahía

Ca
Taxi History

Av
south of Avenida Cobá.

rre
de Mujeres

s to Zo

Ru
re
ra
Cancún’s taxis do not have meters. Fares are

e
Comfortable colectivos (shared vans) depart A glimpse at the sunbathers on the beach

da
S ac

M
Ferrie
set, but you should always agree on a price

Ba
will have you thinking the moniker ‘Island

ed
from the curb in front of the international Isla Mujeres

jo

ina
Turtle Farm
terminal about every 15 minutes for the Zona before getting in; otherwise you could end of Women’ comes from the bikini-clad tour- Playa Hacienda
Mundaca
Pescador
Hotelera and Ciudad Cancún; they charge up paying for a ‘misunderstanding.’ From ists; however, the name Isla Mujeres goes at

Ca
Ciudad Cancún to Punta Cancún is M$80,

rre
M$110 per person. If volume allows, they will least as far back as Spanish buccaneers, who Playa

ter
Lancheros
to Puerto Juárez M$30. Hourly and daily

aP
separate passengers into Ciudad Cancún and (legend has it) kept their lovers in safe seclu- Arrecife Manchones

u
Hotel

nt
rates should run about M$150 to M$120 Manchones Playa Indios Su Garrafón
Zona groups. Otherwise, depending who’s sion here while they plundered galleons and

a
Playa Garrafón r de Castilla
going exactly where, they may head downtown and M$700 to M$800 respectively. pillaged ports on the mainland. An alternate Parque Natural Lighthouse

first and then to the Zona. Going the opposite theory suggests that in 1517, when Francisco Ruins
way, via Punta Nizuc, can take up to 45 min- Hernández de Córdoba sailed from Cuba and Punta
utes from the airport to Ciudad Cancún.
Cheaper ADO shuttles leave from the
NORTH OF CANCÚN arrived here to procure slaves, the expedi-
tion discovered a stone temple containing
La Bandera
Sur

domestic terminal side, charging M$35 to Except for the roads feeding Cancún’s mega- clay figurines of Maya goddesses; it is thought
go downtown or M$65 direct to Playa del lopolis, the rest of north and northwestern Córdoba named the island after the icons.
Carmen. Riviera also runs nine express 1st- Yucatán is a tangle of roadless jungle, unin- Today some archaeologists believe that the
class buses from the airport to Playa del habited except in small pockets. Islands – Isla island was a stopover for the Maya en route
Carmen between 7am and 7:30pm (M$80, Mujeres, Isla Contoy and Isla Holbox – are to worship their goddess of fertility, Ixchel,
45 minutes to one hour). The service is direct the main tourist draws. Isla Mujeres has good on Isla Cozumel. The clay idols are thought follows the coast. Between them are a hand-
and tickets are sold at a counter that is located beaches and is more laid-back than Cancún; to have represented the goddess. The island ful of small fishing villages, several saltwater
in the international section of the airport. Contoy is a bird sanctuary; and Holbox has may also have figured in the extensive Maya lakes, a string of westward-facing beaches, a
Regular taxis into town or to the Zona diverse wildlife (it’s a great place to swim salt trade, which extended for hundreds of large lagoon and a small airstrip.
Hotelera cost up to M$450 (up to four people) with whale sharks) and a friendly commu- kilometers along the coastline. The eastern shore is washed by the open
if you catch them right outside the airport. If nity of fisherfolk and hammock-weavers. All sea, and the surf there is dangerous. The
you follow the access road out of the airport, three are worth a peek if you have the time, Orientation most popular sand beach (Playa Norte) is
however, and past the traffic-monitoring and both Isla Mujeres and the slightly more The island is 8km long, 150m to 800m wide at the northern tip of the island.
booth (a total of about 300m), you can often distant Isla Contoy are doable as day trips and 13km from Cancún’s Zona Hotelera.
flag down an empty taxi leaving the airport even if you’re based in Cancún. You’ll find most of the restaurants and ho- Information
that will take you for much less (you can try tels in the town of Isla Mujeres, with the pe- The following places are all in Isla Mujeres
for M$50) because the driver is no longer sub- ISLA MUJERES destrian mall on Hidalgo serving as the focal Town.
ject to the expensive regulated airport fares. %998 / pop 14,000 point. The ferry arrives in the town proper
Colectivo taxis head to the airport from a If you are going to visit just one of Quintana on the island’s northern tip. On the south- BOOKSTORES
stand in front of the Hotel Cancún Handall Roo’s islands, then Isla Mujeres (Island of ern tip are the lighthouse and vestiges of the Mañana (%044 998-866-4347; cnr Matamoros &
on Avenida Tulum about a block south of Women) is probably the place for you. It’s Maya temple. The two are linked by Avenida Guerrero; h10am-7pm) This café has some nice offer-
Avenida Cobá. These operate from 6am to not as crowded as Cozumel, yet offers more Rueda Medina, a loop road that more or less ings, and swaps or sells, depending on your needs.
QUINTANA ROO 90 N O R T H O F C A N C Ú N • • I s l a M u j e re s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com N O R T H O F C A N C Ú N • • I s l a M u j e re s 91

QUINTANA ROO
EMERGENCY Playa Norte, but it sometimes has free musical
Police (%877-0082) festivities on Sunday. A taxi ride to Lancheros
ISLA MUJERES TOWN 0
0
300 m
0.2 mile
Punta
is M$20. A Norte B C D
INTERNET ACCESS Another 1.5km south of Lancheros is Playa INFORMATION SLEEPING
Internet café (cnr Matamoros & Guerrero; per hr M$15; Garrafón, with translucent waters, colorful fish HSBC.......................................1 C4 Hotel Belmar..........................11 B3
Immigration Office...................2 B4 Hotel Cabañas María del Mar..12 B2
h9am-10pm Mon-Sat) As yet unnamed. and no sand. Unfortunately the reef here 1 Internet Café............................3 B3 Hotel Caribe Maya.................13 B3
has been heavily damaged by hurricanes Mañana...............................(see 26) Hotel D’Gomar......................14 C4
Medical Center........................4 C3 Hotel Francis Arlene...............15 B3
LAUNDRY and careless visitors. The water can be very Avalon Post Office...............................5 B3 Hotel Marcianito....................16 B3
Reef Club
Tim Pho (%877-0529; cnr Juárez & Abasolo; h7am- choppy, sweeping you into jagged areas, so Tim Pho...................................6 B3 Hotel Mesón del Bucanero ....17 B3
Tourist Information Office.......7 B4 Hotel Na Balam......................18 B2
9pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) Friendly and cheap: up to it’s best to stay near shore. Avoid the over- Hotel Playa de la Media
hyped and overpriced Parque Natural (which SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Luna...................................19 B2
4kg takes two hours and costs M$50. Coral Scuba Dive Center..........8 B3 Hotel Roca Teliz.....................20 B3
has constructed a horrendous eyesore of an Fisherman's Cooperative Booth..9 B4 Poc-Na Hostel........................21 B3
Sea Hawk Divers....................10 B2 Villa Kiin.................................22 B2
observation tower that has you praying for a 22
MEDICAL SERVICES hurricane) and visit instead Hotel Garrafón de EATING
18
Medical center (Guerrero) Between Madero and Morelos. Castilla (%877-0107; Carretera Punta Sur Km 6; admis- 2
19 Aluxes Coffee House..............23 B3
La Flor de Michoacá...............24 C4

Ha
te

s
ca
or
sion M$20; h9am-5pm), which provides chairs, La Lomita.............................. 25 C4

Ro
Zazil-
aN

ión
Mañana.................................26 B3

ay
MONEY umbrellas, showers and baths for the entrance

cc
Pl
Mercado Municipal................27 B3

Se
10 Centro de Playa
Several banks are directly across from the fee. Snorkeling gear is M$60 extra. It has a 12 Convenciones Pancholo Mininos..................................28 B4
Pizza Rolandi.......................(see 11)
Zona Hotelera ferry dock. Most exchange roped-off swimming area as well as a restau- Bus Stop Restaurante Bucaneros.........(see 17)
Ca
currency, have ATMs and are open 8:30am rant and snack bar. The hotel rents lockers rlo
sL CARIBBEAN
Viva Cuba Libre.....................29 B3
az Xpress Super..........................30 C3
to 5pm Monday to Friday and 9am to and towels, and offers snorkeling tours to Gu
5 o
err 27 SEA
2pm Saturday. the offshore reef for M$200. Taxis from town 34 Hi
ero 26 21
DRINKING
da La Malquerida........................31 B3
HSBC (Av Rueda Medina) cost M$50. Cemetery lgo 29
23
ENTERTAINMENT
3

s
3

eo
Plaza Isla 15 Fayne’s...................................32 B3

at
Mujeres

zM
POST & TELEPHONE HACIENDA MUNDACA Ju
ár 32
31
36 20 Hotel Na Balam ..................(see 18)

pe
ez 11 13 4 La Peña..................................33 C3
The island has an abundance of Telmex card This hacienda (Av Rueda Medina; admission M$10;

Ló
Av 16
Ru Playa Sol................................34 A3

s
33

oro
eda 6
phones. h9am-5pm) is at the large bend in Avenida Me 8 30 Poc-Na Hostel.....................(see 21)

tam
din
a
Post office (%877-0085; cnr Guerrero & López Mateos; Rueda Medina, about 4km south of the town.

lo
Ma
17 Plaza TRANSPORT

aso
h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Its story is perhaps more intriguing than the David (Bicycle Rental).............35 B4

Ab

o
35

der
Pepe's Moto Rent..................36 B3
ruins that remain. A 19th-century slave trader 28

Ma
27

s
Taxi Stand..............................37 B4

relo

vo
TOURIST INFORMATION and reputed pirate, Fermín Antonio Mundaca 9 1

Bra
Mo
24
14
Immigration office (%877-0189; Av Rueda Medina; de Marechaja, fell in love with a local woman Bahía de Mujeres Bus
Stop 37 e
h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun) Next door to known as La Trigueña (Brunette). To win her, 4 Passenger Ferries to
Al
le
nd
25
Punta Sam (6km);
the tourist information office, but frequently has a sign up Mundaca built a two-story mansion complete Puerto Juárez (10km)
that reads ‘Sorry, gone to Cancún.’ with gardens and graceful archways, as well ibe To Isla Mujeres Turtle Farm (3.5km);
Ur Hacienda Mundace (4km); Southern
Tourist information office (%877-0767; Av Rueda as a small fortification. Car Ferry to
Punta Sam
Ferries to Zona
Hotelera, Cancún
Beaches (5-7km); Hotel Garrafón de
Castilla (5.5km); Maya Ruins (7km);
Medina; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat & Sun) But while Mundaca was building the (6km) (13km) Lighthouse (7km)

There’s no sign, but the office is located between Madero house, La Trigueña married another islander.
and Morelos next to the Migracíones office. It offers a Brokenhearted, Mundaca died and his house, house. At the southern end stand a gateway temple dedicated to Ixchel, Maya goddess
number of brochures, and one member of its friendly staff fortress and garden fell into disrepair. Some and a small garden. You can still make out the of the moon and fertility. The lightkeeper
speaks English; the rest speak Spanish only. documents indicate that Mundaca died during words Entrada de La Trigueña (La Trigueña’s will sometimes let you climb to the top for
a visit to Mérida and was buried there. Others Entrance) etched into the impressive stone amazing views – remember to tip. In 1988
Sights & Activities say he died on the island, and indeed there’s arch of the gate. Hurricane Gilbert nearly finished the ruins
BEACHES & SWIMMING a grave in the town cemetery that suppos- The shady grounds make for pleasant off; what was left was pummeled by Emily
Once you reach Playa Norte, the island’s main edly contains his remains. Despite the skull strolling (bring insect repellent), and a small and Wilma in 2005, and there’s now little to
beach, you won’t want to leave. Its warm shal- and crossbones on his headstone (a common zoo is scattered across them, holding local see other than the sculpture garden, the sea
low waters are the color of blue-raspberry memento mori) there’s no evidence in his- fauna. Kids may find it fun; adults may want and, in the distance, Cancún. Unless you’re
syrup and the beach is crushed coral. Unlike tory books that Mundaca was ever a pirate. to unlock the cages. desperate to pay the steep entry fee (M$50),
the outer beach, Playa Norte is safe and the Instead, it is said he accumulated his wealth Hacienda Mundaca is easily reached by bus head left before the lighthouse and enjoy the
water is only chest-deep even far from shore. by transporting slaves from Africa to Cuba, or bike; a taxi from town will cost M$30. view from the small dirt parking lot. From Isla
If you tire of sunbathing, cool off with some- where they were forced to work in mines and Mujeres Town, a taxi costs M$50.
thing frosty at one of the many bars. sugarcane fields. PUNTA SUR
Five kilometers south of town is Playa Today the mostly ruined complex has some At the south end of the island you’ll find DIVING & SNORKELING
Lancheros, the southernmost point served by walls and foundations, a large central pond, a romantic lighthouse, modern sculpture Many of the diving and snorkeling sites in the
local buses. The beach is less attractive than some rusting cannons and a partially rebuilt garden and the severely worn remains of a Cancún/Isla Mujeres area were affected by
QUINTANA ROO 92 N O R T H O F C A N C Ú N • • I s l a M u j e re s lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels N O R T H O F C A N C Ú N • • I s l a M u j e re s 93

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Sleeping with double beds (air-con rooms have two)
DREAM GREEN BY VISITING ISLA MUJERES TURTLE FARM The ‘high season’ rates cover roughly mid- and large bathrooms. Most have hammocks,
Although they are endangered, sea turtles are still killed throughout Latin America for their December through March. During this period and both coffee and water are free. The mirror
eggs and meat, which is considered a delicacy. Three species of sea turtle lay eggs in the sand you can expect many places to be booked solid in the stairway gives warped, funhouse-style
along Isla Mujeres’ calm western shore, and they are now being protected – one tortugita (little by noon (even earlier during Easter week). US reflections as you head to your room.
turtle) at a time. spring break (March to early April) is another Hotel Belmar (%877-0430; www.rolandi.com; Hidalgo
In the 1980s, efforts by a local fisherman led to the founding of the Isla Mujeres Tortugranja peak time. 110; d with air-con low/high season M$350/950, ste with
(Isla Mujeres Turtle Farm; %877-0595; Carretera Sac Bajo Km 5; admission M$30; h9am-5pm; c), 5km south All the sleeping options given here are in Jacuzzi M$950/1340; a) Above the Pizza Rolandi
of town, which protects the turtles’ breeding grounds and places wire cages around their eggs Isla Mujeres Town. restaurant and run by the same friendly fam-
to protect against predators. ily. All rooms are comfy and well kept, with
Hatchlings live in three large pools for up to a year, then are tagged for monitoring and re- BUDGET tiled floors and (some) balconies. Prices span
leased. Because most turtles in the wild die within their first few months, the practice of guarding oPoc-Na Hostel (%/fax 877-0090; www.pocna four distinct seasons.
them through their first year greatly increases their chances of survival. Moreover, the turtles .com; cnr Matamoros & Carlos Lazo; sites per person M$65, Hotel Mesón del Bucanero (%877-1222, 800-
that leave this protected beach return each year, which means their offspring receive the same dm with/without card M$90/110, d M$240-350; ai) 712-3510; www.bucaneros.com; Hidalgo 11; d M$400-700;
protection. Only moments away from one of the island’s a) Above Restaurant Bucaneros, between
There are several hundred sea turtles, ranging in weight from 150g to more than 300kg. The nicest beaches and decorated with shells and Abasolo and Madero. Its nicely decorated
farm also has a small but good-quality aquarium, displays on marine life and a gift shop. Tours hibiscus flowers, Mexico’s oldest youth hostel rooms (most with air-con) all have TVs and
are conducted in Spanish and English. ranks among the country’s best. It has fan- are priced according to their various combina-
If you’re driving, cycling or walking from the bus stop, bear right at the ‘Y’ just beyond Hacienda cooled six-, eight- and 10-bed co-ed dorms tions of beds, balcony, tub and fridge – one
Mundaca’s parking lot (the turn is marked by a tiny sign). The facility is easily reached from as well as women’s dorms and a few air- even has a blender and toaster. Rooms air out
town by taxi (M$30). con doubles. The large main common area nicely if the windows are opened.
has hammocks to chill in and an excellent Villa Kiin (%877-1024; www.villakiin.com; Calle Zazil-Ha
sound system putting out tunes till the wee s/n; d low season M$400-1290, high season M$990-1690) This
Hurricanes Emily and Wilma in 2005. That natural patrimony. At all of the reputable dive hours. The property extends through 100m is the best buy in this price range. Beautiful
said, hurricane damage is part of natural reef centers you need to show your certification of sand and coconut palms to the edge of the cabanas right by the beach offer something
ecology, and the reefs are now growing anew. card, and you will be expected to have your Caribbean and the hostel’s own beach bar. similar to what’s in Tulum, while palm-shaded
Within a short boat ride of the island there’s own gear. Equipment rental adds M$100 Though there are no cooking facilities for hammocks and a common kitchen make it
a handful of lovely dives, such as Barracuda, to the prices listed here; you’ll pay another guests, the kitchen serves good, inexpensive easy to do nothing all afternoon.
La Bandera, El Jigueo and Manchones. You can M$100 if you need a wetsuit. food (and beer and wine). Hotel Francis Arlene (%/fax 877-0310; Guerrero
expect to see sea turtles, rays and barracuda, Sea Hawk Divers (% /fax 877-0296; www.isla Hotel Roca Teliz (%877-0407; jccanopus@hotmail 7; r with fan/air-con low season M$450/550, high season
along with a wide array of hard and soft -mujeres.net/seahawkdivers; Carlos Lazo) offers dives for .com; cnr Hidalgo & Abasolo; s low/high season M$100/160, M$550/650; a) This place offers comfortable,
corals. A popular nonreef dive is Ultrafreeze M$450 (one tank) to M$600 (two tanks), a d low/high season M$160/250; a) Good budget digs, good-sized, pastel-and-white rooms with fan
(or El Frío), where you’ll see the intact hull resort course for M$850, PADI Open Water especially for solo travelers, the ‘Rock’ has a and fridge. Most have a king-sized bed or two
of a 60m-long cargo ship – thought to have certification (M$3200) and snorkeling tours cool central courtyard, dark but clean rooms, doubles, and many have balconies and sea
been deliberately sunk in 30m of water. It’s from M$250. and is located right on the Hidalgo pedestrian views. The lounging frog sculptures will either
90 minutes by boat northeast of Isla Mujeres. Coral Scuba Dive Center (%877-0763; www.coral mall. Add M$100 for air-con. seem hokey or cute. Either way they kinda
The name of the site is due to the unusually scubadivecenter.com; Hidalgo), between Abasolo and Hotel Caribe Maya (%877-0684; Madero 9; d with fit right in.
cool water found there. A rental 3mm shorty Madero, offers dives for M$290 to M$590, fan/air-con M$250/300; a) The old blue tiles need
wetsuit will barely keep you warm; consider snorkel trips for M$220 and a variety replacing, but this place offers rooms that, TOP END
asking for a hood if you tend to get chilled of courses. though a bit musty, are solid value even in All rooms in this category have air-con.
while diving. The fisherfolk of Isla Mujeres have formed the high season. Hotel Playa de la Media Luna (%887-0759; www
Snorkeling with whale sharks (M$1250) is a cooperative to offer snorkeling tours of Hotel Marcianito (%877-0111; Abasolo 10; r M$300- .playamedialuna.com; Sección Rocas, lotes 9 & 10, Punta Norte;
the latest craze on the island. The season runs various sites from M$200, including the 350) The ‘Little Martian’ is a neat, tidy and r M$950-1500; as) The older, cheaper rooms
from July through September. It can get a bit reef off Playa Garrafón, and day trips to Isla non-pod-people-owned hotel with 13 slightly (M$400 to M$600) are a pretty good deal as
crazy with several boats circling one whale Contoy for M$500. You can book through dark, fan-cooled rooms that have a bit too you get to use the hotel’s pool, though the
shark, but they try to limit the number of the Fisherman’s Cooperative Booth (%877-1363; much air freshener. Upper-floor rooms are beds are a bit sproingy. The rooms in the new
swimmers in the water to three people (in- Av Rueda Medina) in a palapa steps away from the more expensive ones. Plaid quilts seem house are a bit fancier, some with ocean views,
cluding one guide). Sea Hawk Divers, Coral the dock. Booking here ensures your money cutely out of place. all featuring bedspreads that should have left
Scuba Dive Center and the Fisherman’s goes to locals. this world when Three’s Company went off
Cooperative Booth (see right) all offer whale MIDRANGE the air. Big spenders should head next door
shark trips. (For more information on whale DEEP-SEA FISHING Hotel D’Gomar (%877-0541; Av Rueda Medina 150; d with to the Hotel Secreto.
sharks, see boxed text, p97.) The fishing cooperative (see above) offers trips fan M$350, with air-con low/high season M$500/650; a) A Hotel Cabanas María del Mar (%877-0179; www
To protect and preserve the reefs, a M$20 to fish for marlin, swordfish and dorado from friendly place facing the ferry dock between .cabanasdelmar.com; Carlos Lazo 1; d low season M$750-990,
fee is charged for all diving and swimming. M$500/1500 per hour/half-day, including bait Morelos and Bravo, this has four floors of high season M$1100-1300; as) Near Playa Norte,
Please pay it, as this money is used to preserve and tackle, soft drinks, snacks and beer. attractive, ample and well-maintained rooms it has 73 rooms with firm beds and ‘pretty in
QUINTANA ROO 94 N O R T H O F C A N C Ú N • • I s l a M u j e re s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com N O R T H O F C A N C Ú N • • I s l a M u j e re s 95

QUINTANA ROO
pink’ bedspreads. All have balconies or ter- you a choice of several mains accompanied live reggae, salsa and other Caribbean sounds. PUERTO JUÁREZ
races, many with sea or pool views and lovely by soup or salad and a dessert. Near Matamoros. Just over 4km north of Ciudad Cancún (15
tiled bathrooms. A lush courtyard, restau- La Lomita (Juárez; mains M$40-120; h9am-10:30pm La Malquerida (%877-1639; cnr Hidalgo & Mata- minutes by bus) is Puerto Juárez (Map p75).
rant and swimming pool top things off. Rates Mon-Sat) The ‘Little Hill’ serves good, cheap moros; h10am-midnight) Seems pricier than it Enclosed, air-con express boats depart from
include continental breakfast. Mexican food in a small, colorful setting could be and doesn’t have the view the beach here for Isla Mujeres (one way M$35, 25 min-
Hotel Na Balam (%877-0279; www.nabalam.com; between Allende and Uribe. Seafood and bars do, but it’s open daily and sometimes utes) every 30 minutes from 6am to 8:30am,
Calle Zazil-Ha 118; r low/high season M$1500/2400, ste chicken dishes predominate. Try the fantas- has live music. then hourly until 9:30pm with a final depar-
M$3000/3600; as) Butterflies flit around tic bean and avocado soup, or ceviche. Playa Sol (Playa Norte; h9am-10pm or whenever) A ture at 11pm; they rarely leave on time.
the beautiful hibiscus and palm garden, and Viva Cuba Libre (Calle Hidalgo Plaza Almendros; mains happening spot day and night, with volley-
many rooms face Playa Norte. All rooms are M$60-90; h5pm-midnight Tue-Sun) It competes for ball, a soccer area and good food and drinks ZONA HOTELERA
decorated with simple elegance and have safes, decibel levels with neighboring restaurants, at decent prices. It’s a great spot to watch Services from the following two spots in the
hammocks, private balconies or patios…and but really, we all like Cuban son (a type of the sunset, and in high season bands play Zona Hotelera change names and schedules
no TVs. The hotel offers yoga and meditation dance) more than bad disco remixes, don’t reggae, salsa, merengue or other danceable frequently; ask your concierge to check for
classes as well as massage services, and has a we? Apart from that, you get a well-deserved music. Just follow the beach to the party. you before heading out to catch boats from
pool and restaurant. There’s also entertain- break from Mexican fare with ropa vieja Hotel Na Balam (Calle Zazil-Ha) Caters to an any of the following places. All take about 25
ment here (opposite). (slow-cooked shredded beef), Cuban lob- older set, and has a beach bar that’s a popu- minutes to reach Isla Mujeres.
ster and other Caribbean favorites. Mojitos lar spot on weekend afternoons (every other
Eating (Cuban mint, lime and rum cocktails) are week in the off-season), with live music, El Embarcadero
Mercado Municipal (Town Market; Guerrero) Inside the two for M$50. Viva Cuba indeed! dancing and a three-hour-long happy hour. Shuttles depart from this dock at Playa Linda
remodeled market are a couple of stalls selling Mininos (Av Rueda Medina; mains M$60-130; h11am- La Peña (Guerrero; h7:30pm-3am or later) This (Map p75) four times daily in low season,
hot food cheap – a plate of chicken mole and 9pm) A tiny, colorfully painted shack with a English-run club features the sound of between 9:30am and 1:30pm, returning from
rice, or tuna with olives in a tortilla, can go sand floor right on the water, Mininos dishes waves, lots of wood and a nice pool table. Isla Mujeres at 10:30am, 1:30pm, 3:30pm and
for as little as M$15. Other stalls sell a variety up cocktails of shrimp, conch and octopus, Off the north side of the plaza, it has a great 5:15pm. The one-way fare (M$75) includes
of produce, and a juice stand serves up liq- as well as heaping plates of delicious ceviche atmosphere and a fabulous music mix. Some soft drinks. High season sees up to seven de-
uid refreshments. Four open-air restaurants and seafood soups. say it’s the best in town. partures each way. El Embarcadero is a beige
out the front serve simple, filling meals at Pizza Rolandi (%877-0430; Hidalgo; mains M$70-120, building between the Gran Costa Real Hotel
fair prices. pizzas M$60-130; h8am-11pm) Below the Hotel and the channel, on the mainland side of the
La Flor de Michoacán (cnr Hidalgo & Bravo; juices
Getting There & Away bridge (Blvd Kukulcán Km 4).
Belmar, between Abasolo and Madero, it There are several points of embarkation to
M$8-M$15; h9am-9pm) Near the plaza, this is bakes very good thin-crust pizzas and cal- reach Isla Mujeres. The following descrip-
the place to go for excellent and inexpensive zones in a wood-fired oven. The menu also Playa Tortugas
tion starts from the northernmost port and
milkshakes, fruit drinks and shaved ices. includes pasta, fresh salads, fish, good coffee The Isla Shuttle (%883-3448) leaves from the
progresses southeast (see Map p75). To reach
Aluxes Coffee House (Matamoros; bagels M$20, and some Italian specialties – definitely don’t dock on Playa Tortugas (Map p75) on Blvd
Puerto Juárez or Punta Sam from Ciudad
sandwiches M$40-50; h8am-10pm Wed-Mon) Aluxes come here looking for Mexican. Kukulcán Km 6.35 at 9:15am, 11:30am, 1:45pm
Cancún, catch any bus (M$4) displaying those
serves bagels with cream cheese, sandwiches, Xpress Super, a chain supermarket on and 3:45pm, returning from Isla Mujeres at
destinations and/or ‘Ruta 13’ as it heads north
muffins, and hot and iced coffee. Between the plaza, has a solid selection of groceries, 10:15am, 12:30pm, 3:30pm and 6:30pm. The
on Avenida Tulum. Some R1 (Zona Hotelera;
Guerrero and Hidalgo. baked goods and snacks. one-way fare is M$90.
M$6.50) buses make the trip as well; ask
oMañana (%877-0555; cnr Matamoros & before boarding.
Guerrero; dishes M$20-70; h8am-4pm; v) A good- Getting Around
vibe place with colorful hand-painted tables, Drinking & Entertainment With all rented transportation it’s best to deal
superfriendly service and some excellent veg- Isla Mujeres’ highest concentration of night- PUNTA SAM directly with the shop supplying it. They’re
gie options – the hummus and veggie baguette life is along Hidalgo, and hot spots on or near Car ferries, which also take passengers, de- happier if they don’t have to pay commis-
is the restaurant’s signature dish – Mañana the beach form an arc around the northern part from Punta Sam (off Map p77), about sions to touts, and the chances for misunder-
is perhaps the best lunch spot on the island. edge of town. Loud disco-bar-restaurants 8km north of Cancún center, and take about standings are fewer. Rates are usually open
It also has coffee, licuados (blends of fruit open and close seasonally on Hidalgo, usu- an hour to reach the island. Departure times to negotiation.
or juice with water or milk, and sugar) and ally to be replaced by something almost the are 8am, 11am, 2:45pm, 5:30pm and 8:15pm
some Middle Eastern dishes. There’s a book same. If no hours are listed you can assume from Punta Sam; and 6:30am, 9:30am, BICYCLE
exchange, too. the venue opens in the afternoon and doesn’t 12:45pm, 4:15pm and 7:15pm from Isla Cycling is a great way to get around the is-
Restaurante Bucaneros (%877-0126; Hidalgo; mains close until at least midnight. Mujeres. Walk-ons and vehicle passengers land. Many bicycles are single-speed, with
M$26-120, set meals M$120; h7am-11pm) Below the Poc-Na Hostel (cnr Matamoros & Carlos Lazo; hsunset- pay M$15; drivers are included in the fare coaster (ie push-back-on-the-pedal) brakes;
Hotel Mesón del Bucanero between Abasolo sunrise) Has a beachfront joint with bonfires for cars (M$190), vans (M$240), motorcycles these give you a good workout on the gradual
and Madero, this is a fan-cooled, mostly and more hippies than all the magic buses (M$75) and bicycles (M$60). If you’re taking hills. A number of shops rent bikes for about
outdoor restaurant with a pleasing ambience in the world. It’s a scene, but it’s a chill, a car in high season (believe us, you don’t M$20/80 per hour/day. Arrive early in the day
and a variety of alcoholic and nonalcoholic cooled-out scene. need one), it’s good to get in line an hour or to get your pick of the better ones and take
tropical shakes and drinks. The best deal is Fayne’s (Hidalgo; h5pm-midnight) One of the so before departure time. Tickets go on sale the time to have the seat adjusted properly.
the menú especial (set menu), which gives latest disco-bar-restaurants, often featuring just before the ferry begins loading. Some places ask for a deposit of about M$100.
QUINTANA ROO 96 N O R T H O F C A N C Ú N • • Pa r q u e N a c i o n a l I s l a C o n t o y lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels NORTH OF CANCÚN •• Isla Holbox 97

QUINTANA ROO
David (%044 998-860-0075; Av Rueda Medina), near The trip gives you about two hours of free
Abasolo, has a decent selection. time to explore the island’s two interpretive A GAME OF DOMINOES – SWIM WITH THE WHALE SHARKS
trails, skim through materials in the visitors Between mid-May and mid-September, massive whale sharks congregate around Isla Holbox to
BUS & TAXI center and to climb the 27m-high observation feed on plankton. They are the largest fish in the world, weighing up to 15 tons and extending
Local buses depart about every 25 minutes tower. For M$100 per person, a park biolo- from gaping mouth to arching tail as long as 15m. Locals call them dominoes because of their
(but don’t bank on it) from next to the Centro gist will take you on a tour of Laguna Puerto speckled skin.
de Convenciones (near the back of the mar- Viejo, a prime nesting site; funds go toward The best time to swim with these gentle giants is in July. A trip will cost you M$800, plus
ket) or from the ferry dock and head along park upkeep and research projects. Contact M$20 to visit the marine reserve. During the shoulder seasons, you can get up to a dozen boats
Avenida Rueda Medina, stopping along the the park headquarters (%998-877-0118) on Isla rotating around a single whale shark. It’s unpleasant for both shark and swimmer, so think twice
way. Get taxis from the stand at the dock or Mujeres. Amigos de Isla Contoy (www.islacontoy.org) about taking a tour during this season.
flag one down. You can get to the entrance of has a website with good information on the The World Wildlife Fund has been working with the local community since 2003 to develop
Hacienda Mundaca, within 300m of the Turtle island’s ecology. responsible practices for visiting the whale sharks, trying to balance the economic boon of these
Farm (Tortugranja), and as far south as Playa tours with the environmental imperatives of protecting a threatened species.
Lancheros (1.5km north of Playa Garrafón). Getting There & Away When swimming with the whale shark only three swimmers (including your guide) are allowed
Taxi rates are set by the municipal government Daily visits to Contoy are offered by the in the water at a time. You are not allowed to touch the fish, and are required to wear either a
and posted at the taxi stand just south of the Fisherman’s Cooperative Booth (Map p91; %998-877- life jacket or wetsuit to ensure you do not dive below the shark.
passenger ferry dock. As always, agree on a 1363; Av Rueda Medina) on Isla Mujeres. The trip Willy’s Tours (%875-2008; [email protected], Av Tiburón Ballena), near Mini Súper Besa, offers
price before getting in. (M$500 per person) lasts from 9am to 5pm tours swimming with whale sharks (M$800 per person), birding (M$800 to M$1200 per boat),
and includes a light breakfast, lunch (with fish crocodile spotting (M$2270 per boat) and fishing (M$3500 per boat). Boats can accommodate six
MOTORCYCLE & GOLF CART caught en route), snorkeling (gear provided), to 12 people. Ask to stop for a quick snorkel on the way back from your trip – the guides will
Take a look around before you rent. The island park admission, scientific information on the normally agree to this.
is tiny and you can walk from the dock to any island, and your choice of purified water, soft
part of the town in 15 minutes. Two-wheeled drinks or beer.
motorized transportation can be dangerous; water lagoon on the south side inspired the Sleeping
even on sedate Isla Mujeres people get seri- ISLA HOLBOX Maya to name it Holbox or ‘black hole.’ Isla Holbox is the perfect place to bring a book
ously injured or die in bike mishaps. Inspect %984 / pop 2000 During the rainy season there are clouds and lounge in a hammock under some palm
the vehicle carefully before renting. Costs Isn’t life great when it’s low-fi and low-rise? of mosquitoes: bring repellent and be pre- trees. Not surprisingly, cabanas are every-
vary, and are sometimes jacked up in high That’s the attitude on friendly Isla Holbox pared to stay inside for a couple of hours where, but the town plaza has some reasonable
season, but generally start at about M$100 per (hol-bosh) with its sandy streets, color- after dusk. hotels. Remember that many budget options
hour, with a two-hour minimum, M$300 all ful Caribbean buildings, and lazing, sun- and some midrange ones have either no hot
day (9am to 5pm) and M$350 for 24 hours. drunk dogs. There’s so little to do here, Orientation & Information water or have it only at certain times of the
Many people find golf carts a good way to in fact, that even the bars close at 8pm or Golf carts are big here, but walking to the day. The first three listings are utilitarian con-
get around the island, and caravans of them 9pm (at least during low season). Holbox town square from the dock only takes about crete constructions inland from the beach. The
can be seen tooling down the roads. They is thus a welcome refuge for anyone look- 15 minutes. Keep going and you’ll hit the Mawimbi and Tortugas are newer, Italian-run
average M$150/450 per hour/day and M$550 ing to just get away from it all (‘all’ likely beach. Budget hotels and most of the town’s places at the edge of the beach, using lots of
for 24 hours. A good, no-nonsense place for meaning the hubbub of Cancún!). restaurants are clustered around the plaza. varnished hardwood, timbers and thatch.
both bikes and golf carts is Pepe’s Moto Rent The island is about 30km long and from A few cabanas are further out along the is- If you’re taking a taxi, make sure the driver
(%877-0019) on Hidalgo between Matamoros 500m to 2km wide, with seemingly endless land’s northern shore in what locals call the brings you to the place you’ve requested.
and Abasolo. beaches, tranquil waters and a galaxy of shells Zona Hotelera. Nobody uses street names, Posada La Raza (%875-2072; Juárez; s with fan/air-con
in various shapes and colors. Lying within the but Calle Juárez connects the town with the M$250/400, d with fan/air-con M$350/500; a) A mod-
PARQUE NACIONAL ISLA CONTOY 1.54 sq km Yum Balam reserve, Holbox is ferry dock. est, clean, one-story place on the west side of
Spectacular Isla Contoy is a bird-lover’s de- home to more than 150 species of bird, includ- Note that the island has no bank or ATM, the parque. Rooms have one double and one
light: a national park and sanctuary that is an ing roseate spoonbills, pelicans, herons, ibis and many places to stay and eat do not accept single bed. Fan-cooled rooms have ceiling
easy day trip from Isla Mujeres. About 800m and flamingos. The waters are abundant with credit cards. Bring more cash than you think and pedestal fans, making for good circula-
at its widest point and more than 7km long, fish, and dolphins can be seen year-round. In you’ll use, then double that amount. tion. Guests have use of a small kitchen and
it has dense foliage that provides ideal shelter summer, whale sharks congregate relatively Cyber@Shark (%875-2044; per hr M$15; hnoon- hand-laundry facilities, and can hang clothes
for more than 100 species of bird, includ- nearby in unheard-of quantities. And strong midnight Mon-Fri, 10am-midnight Sat & Sun) offers inter- or sunbathe on the roof.
ing brown pelicans, olive cormorants, turkey northerly winds could make for great kite- net and VOIP/phone connections. Posada d’Ingrid (%875-2070; www.posadadingrid
birds, brown boobies and frigates, as well as boarding and windsurfing (at press time both Dial %066 for police, fire or medical .com; r with air-con M$350-500; a) A friendly bright-
being a good place to see red flamingos, snowy these activities were prohibited; ask before assistance. blue place one block west and one block north
egrets and white herons. you set sail). Many hotels will book tours of the area’s at- of the northwest edge of the parque. All six
Most of the trips stop for snorkeling both The water is not the translucent turquoise tractions. Posada Mawimbi (p98) offers canoe rooms have hot water and TV; there’s a simple
en route to and just off Contoy, which sees common to Quintana Roo beach sites, be- and kayak trips to the other side of the island, palapa in the courtyard.
about 1500 visitors a month. Bring binoculars, cause here the Caribbean mingles with the as well as motorboat trips toward the central Posada Los Arcos (%875-2072; [email protected];
mosquito repellent and sun block. darker Gulf of Mexico. The island’s dark- areas of the island. Juárez; d with fan M$350, with air-con M$400-550; a) Next
QUINTANA ROO 98 NORTH OF CANCÚN •• Isla Holbox Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • Pu e r t o M o re l o s 99

QUINTANA ROO
door to Posada La Raza, this is a touch more all good, but eat early, especially in the off- Undaunted by hurricanes or efforts by
upscale. Unfortunately, cracks in the door- season. Many places close by 9pm. OFF THE MAP – ALTERNATIVE TOURISM locals to prevent such incursions, megatels
frames mean tons of mosquitoes can easily La Isla del Colibrí (breakfast M$35-60, mains M$50- ON THE RISE IN QUINTANA ROO are scooping up the mangrove swamps and
get in (a problem easily remedied by buying 160; h8am-1pm & 5-10:30pm) A small restaurant Many Maya communities are beginning to turning them into golf courses. ‘Ecoparks’
a mosquito coil and burning it near the door in a gaily painted, Caribbean-style wooden welcome tourism – it may be the only way are also booming. The developers buy giant
before you go to bed). Its rooms are located house on the southwest corner of the parque. to maintain their language and culture as swaths of acreage under the guise of being
around a central courtyard and all have hot It serves huge fruit plates, breakfasts (and mass migration to boom towns such as ‘environmental,’ then turn them into theme-
and cold water. Rates rise by 50% in summer. coffee), licuados, juices and a variety of meat Cancún draws away the best and bright- based tourist traps, many of which charge
Posada Mawimbi (%/fax 875-2003; www.mawimbi and seafood dishes. est, and children ask to study English rather exorbitant entry fees.
.net; d low/high season M$400/600, ste M$800-1000; a) Edelín Pizzería & Restaurant (pizzas M$50-150, mains than Yucatec. That said, the parts along the way that
Mosquito nets are a welcome luxury in this M$40-100; h11am-midnight) On the southeast Organizations such as Puerta Verde (www aren’t developed to death are quite beautiful.
pleasant two-story place just off the beach corner of the plaza, it serves good, Sardinian- .puertaverde.com.mx) are helping these commu- Tulum is worth a visit. Its ruins – perched
and about three blocks east of Juárez. The style pizza, as well as tortas (sandwich in a nities build tourist infrastructure. Two of the above a perfect beach – are simply breathtak-
standard rooms have a fan and comfortable roll), ceviches, fish fillets, shrimp and lobster; program’s projects can be found on the road ing. Playa del Carmen has exciting nightlife
beds, while the suites offer air-con (not really beer costs M$15. to Chiquilá in the towns of Solferino and San and some great food. And Cozumel remains
necessary). Many rooms also have a balcony o Los Pelicanos (% 998-192-4575; meals Ángel. You can go kayaking, cycling or learn one of the world’s top diving destinations.
and hammock, and some have kitchenettes. M$60-200; h5pm-midnight, closed Mon) Half a block about medicinal plants in San Ángel. Further Qualified divers will find exhilarating cavern-
Blue-and-yellow tiled sinks make even shaving south from the plaza’s southeast corner, this north, Solferino has an orchid garden, jungle diving opportunities in the Riviera Maya
a pleasure. Conch lamps light the walkways friendly eatery is lauded by locals as the best camping spots and canopy tours. area, and the cenotes, Yucatán’s natural lime-
after dark – a beautiful finishing touch. restaurant in town. The house specialty is stone caves, are spectacular.
oHotel La Palapa (%875-2121; www.hotella homemade pasta with your choice of sauce. Stop in the small towns along the Riviera
palapa.com; d low/high season M$500/700; a) Arguably It serves up other Italian favorites and a Taking a taxi from Cancún is another Maya or head inland to catch glimpses of
the best midrange option on the island, Palapa smattering of seafood dishes, including a possibility; you may be able to get a taxi the Mexico that tourism forgot.
is brand-spanking new, and offers cozy beach- pepper-seared tuna and a delicious fish soup. for M$600.
front rooms, private patios (complete with The friendly international owners give you Buses (all 2nd class) leave Chiquilá for PUERTO MORELOS
hammocks) and a cloistered beach area com- free bruschetta to kick off the meal, and Cancún (M$70) at 7:30am and 1:30pm; %998 / pop 3000
plete with an outdoor fogata (fireplace). The there’s a good selection of Italian wines. Tizimín (M$50) at 7:30am, 1:30pm and Halfway between Cancún and Playa del
staff are efficient and friendly, and it’s located Buena Vista Grill (%875-2102; meals M$100-200; 4:30pm; Valladolid (M$70) at 5:30am; and Carmen, Puerto Morelos retains its quiet,
right near the restaurants of the town’s center, Mérida (M$124) at 5:30am. small-town feel despite the building boom
h11am-9pm) This casual eatery next to Faro
100m east of Juárez along the beach. Viejo has plastic chairs, but serves up grilled If you’re driving you can either park your north and south of town. While the village
Hotelito Casa Las Tortugas (%/fax 875-2129; fish specialties including whole grilled fish vehicle in the Chiquilá parking lot for M$30 offers enough restaurants and bars to keep
www.holboxcasalastortugas.com; r low season M$500-800, or fillets wrapped in banana leaves. The per day (8am to 6pm or any fraction thereof), you entertained by night, it’s really the shal-
high season M$700-1100) Has the same rustic but dayvaries. take your chances parking it on the pier low Caribbean waters that draw visitors here.
refined style as its neighbor, the Mawimbi, (which is crowded in high season) or try to Brilliantly contrasted stripes of bright green
with an even greater abundance of charm- catch the infrequent car ferry to Holbox. Since and dark blue separate the shore from the
ing touches, particularly in the bathrooms. Getting There & Around you won’t need the car on the island, leaving barrier reef – a tantalizing sight for divers
Many rooms have kitchenettes and balconies, A barco (boat) ferries passengers (M$40, 25 it on the mainland is a better option. and snorkelers – while inland a series of
with hammocks to laze in outside. There’s a minutes) to Holbox from the port village of Holbox’ sand streets see few autos, but excellent cenotes beckon the adventurous.
beach-front café that serves the complimen- Chiquilá nine times daily from 5am to 6pm golf carts have become ubiquitous and, for Unfortunately, Hurricanes Wilma and Emily
tary continental breakfast. in winter, 6am to 7pm in summer. Buses many residents, rather annoying. If you knocked down most of the beach’s lovely
Villas Delfines (%/fax 875-2197; www.holbox.com; departing Chiquilá usually wait for the boat need one, try Rentadora El Brother (%875-2018; palms – those naughty girls. In their munifi-
bungalows low season M$900-1500, high season M$1200-1500) to arrive. Smaller, faster and wetter lanchas cart per hr/day/24hr M$100/600/800), on Juárez near cence, they did leave behind the sparkling
This eco-tel on the beach about 1km east of (motorboats) make the crossing whenever the beach – but consider using your walking sand beaches.
town composts waste, catches rainwater and anyone’s willing to pay M$250 for the entire shoes instead. Like many resort towns along the coast,
uses solar power. Its large beach bungalows are boat (up to about six people with gear; the Puerto Morelos used to be a fishing village.
built on stilts, fully screened and fan-cooled. fare is higher after dark). Today it retains that laid-back appeal, but
The hotel rents kayaks and has a restaurant
that offers very reasonable meal plans. It’s
Two Mayab buses – with no bathroom, so
use the grungy one in the nearby restaurant
RIVIERA MAYA development is on the rise, including plans
for a new cruise-ship port. There’s a nice
great for those going green, but the accom- (M$3) beforehand if you think you’ll need to The Riviera Maya (Tulum Corridor) is a market just a few minutes’ walk from the
modations are not quite as accommodating as go – leave Cancún daily for Chiquilá (M$70, strip of coastline that stretches from Cancún plaza, with a great selection of crafts, ham-
other lodgings in this price category. 3½ hours) at 7:50am and 12:40pm. There’s in the north to the town of Tulum, about mocks and reasonably priced souvenirs.
also an Oriente bus from Valladolid (M$70, 135km southward. Once a beautiful stretch of
Eating 2½ hours) at 2:45am. From Mérida, take an undeveloped jungle, stunning coastline and Orientation & Information
The influx of Italians has been good for gour- overnight Noreste bus to Chiquilá (M$124, barrier coral reef, it is now fast becoming a Puerto Morelos’ central plaza is 2km east of
mets. Italian, seafood and lobster meals are seven hours) at 11:30pm. strip of giant all-inclusive resort hotels. Hwy 307 nearly at the end of the main road
QUINTANA ROO 100 R I V I E R A MAYA • • Pu e r t o M o re l o s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels R I V I E R A MAYA • • Pu e r t o M o re l o s 101

QUINTANA ROO
Lavanderia ‘Vicar’ (%206-9055; Av Gomez M5L6; west of the plaza, it has been in operation for with pleasing ambience on the southwest cor-
RIVIERA MAYA 00 20 km
12 miles
many years. The simple white-walled rooms ner of the plaza. It serves bagels, sandwiches,
(TULUM CORRIDOR) h7am-9pm) charges M$15 per kilogram.
Goyo Morgan, of Goyo’s (%221-2679), on the have some creative touches, and ocean-blue pies, coffee, and fruit and veggie licuados.
87ºW
plaza, offers jungle tours (adult/child under 12 bedspreads seem just right. There’s a shady There’s internet machines (formerly known
years M$400/200). He can be difficult to locate back area with tables and plenty of plants, as computers) upstairs.
Isla
Holbox at times, but is a wealth of information about the restaurant offers good meals, and there’s Mama’s Bakery (% 845-6810; mains M$30-60;
Holbox
Porvenir
the area, especially edible and medicinal jun- a friendly expat bar. Prices drop by 15% from h7:30am-2pm) At Mama’s try the kiwi-raisin
Laguna Parque Nacional
Yalahán Isla Contoy gle plants. He also offers temescal (bathhouse) May to October. muffins, great carrot cake or the signature
Boca Iglesia
Chiquilá sessions. See p42 for more on temescal. Posada El Moro (%871-0159; www.posadaelmoro sticky buns. Yum! It also offers egg dishes
Solferino
Unidad Isla .com; Av Gomez; s/d M$500/750; s) It has cheery and wonderful smoothies. This intimate,
Ganadera Laguna Blanca
Chacmochuk
Isla
Sights & Activities geraniums in the halls and courtyard, and friendly place is a bit hard to find, but don’t
Union
Agricola Mujeres DIVING & SNORKELING white walls with red trim. Rooms are slightly give up – it’s well worth the short walk from
Punta
Tres
Marías
Sam The barrier reef that runs along most of the stuffy, and some have kitchenettes. All have the square. Heading north along Gómez, go
San
Ángel Pénjamo Cancún Puerto coast of Quintana Roo is only 600m offshore couches that fold out into futons, and there’s about four blocks and look on your left for the
Juárez
Guadalupe here, providing both divers and snorkelers with a small plunge pool. Rates include continen- bamboo wind chimes under the palapa. The
Kantunilkin Aeropuerto
Internacional views of sea turtles, sharks, stingrays, eagle rays, tal breakfast. Prices drop substantially in low small sign is easy to overlook.
MEX

Leona 180 de Cancún

moray eels, lobsters, staghorn and brain corals season. All in all, you’re probably better off Hola Asia (%871-0679; mains M$70-120; h1-10pm
Vicario
Vicente
Punta
Nizuc and, of course, loads of colorful tropical fish. at the Amor. Wed-Mon) On the south side of the plaza, this
Guerrero
La Esperanza
oll) Boca del Siete
MEX
307 Several sunken ships make great wreck diving, Hotel Ojo de Agua (%871-0027; www.ojo-de-agua has become a local institution. Once a tiny
(T
Anexa Puma Bocas
Cenote Cenote
Punta and the dive centers have cenote trips as well. .com; 1-/2-bed r with air-con M$600/700, with fan & kitch- café, it has expanded yearly and now serves
Aqua Caracol
Azul Vallarta Puerto Keep in mind (if you’re a do-it-yourselfer) enette M$800) Offers 33 rooms in a fairly mod- Japanese sushi, Thai, Chinese and Indian
To Punta Morelos
Laguna (35km); Guadalupe
Victoria
Jardín that any divers or snorkelers are required to ern building on a nice stretch of beach. It’s dishes. General Tso’s chicken and whole Thai
Cobá (54km) Botánico
Yaax Che pay M$20 for an entry bracelet to the marine about three blocks north of the plaza and fish are favorites. There’s a bar and large din-
Tres Ríos Punta Maroma park; if you’re snorkeling, you need a personal has its own restaurant, which offers a nice ing area upstairs.
Zona de Lagunas Sacbe
y Cenotes Punta Bete flotation device. While the proximity of the buffet breakfast. John Gray’s Kitchen (%871-0665; Av Niños Héroes L6;
Airport Playa del Carmen reef makes it a tempting destination for beach- Hotel Hacienda Morelos (% /fax 871-0448; www mains M$100-200; h6-10pm Mon-Sat) One block west
Calica Xcaret
based swimmers, strong currents and lots of .haciendamorelos.com; d M$890; as) On the water- and two blocks north of the plaza, this ‘kitchen’
Paamul
Cenotes Cristalino;
El Jardín de Edén & Azul Airport boat traffic can be hazardous. You’re best off front about 150m south of the plaza, it has 15 turns out some truly fabulous food. John, the
Xpu-Há San Miguel
de Cozumel
hiring a boat from the dock (M$250) or ar- very appealing, breezy rooms with sea views, personable owner-chef, has won international
Laguna Puerto
El Continente Aventuras Isla ranging to tag along with a dive center group kitchenettes and air-con, as well as a small pool acclaim. The eclectic menu changes frequently
Cenote Akumal Cozumel and a good restaurant. This is a great value. and may include duck breast with chipotle-
Dos Ojos
To Cobá
as they head out.
Chemuyil
(32km)
Xel-Há You’ll find dive shops in Hotel Ojo de Agua Ceiba del Mar (%872-8060; www.ceibadelmar.com; tequila-honey sauce, fresh fish with baked
Xcacel
Gran
Punta Solimán and Hotel del Cid. d M$3700; ai) OK, it’s probably out of most tomatoes and kalamata olive sauce, and an
Cenote See Isla Cozumel Map (p109)
Tankah Dive Puerto Morelos (%206-9084; www.divepuerto folks’ price ranges, but it’s worth knowing array of scrumptious desserts.
Tulum
Tulum Bahías de Punta morelos.com; h8am-7pm) offers snorkeling, div- about, as it’s one of the classiest hotels on
Parque
Nacional
Solimán
CARIBBEAN SEA
ing and cenote trips, or it costs M$3250 for the Riviera Maya. There’s a day-spa that’s Entertainment
Tulum
PADI certification. It often closes during the open to ‘outsiders.’ It’s 2km north of town Puerto Morelos’ nightlife scene is pretty chill.
low season. on the beach. You can hop in a taxi or bus for a night of
into town (the main dock is the true end of raunchy fun in neighboring Playa del Carmen
the road). The town, all of three streets wide CENOTES Eating if you just can’t stand the quiet. Some of the
from east to west, stretches several blocks to For chilling cenote action, check out the ‘eco- Tío’s (dishes M$15-30; h6am-11pm) A modest, restaurants have bars and live music, and
the north of the plaza and about three long park’ Boca del Puma (%577-6420; www.bocadelpuma friendly place directly across from the light- some stay open late.
blocks south. .com; c), 16km west of Puerto Morelos, near house, just off the northeast corner of the Don Pepe’s (%871-0613; hnoon-3am) This is
Alma Libre (%871-0713; www.almalibrebooks.com; the village of Vallarta, or Siete Bocas (admission plaza. It serves great fish tacos in the morn- an old standby, popular with the mellow set
h10am-3pm & 6-9pm Tue-Sat, 4-9pm Sun, closed Jul-Sep) M$50; c), 13km west of Puerto Morelos, which ing (three for M$18!), and good Yucatecan and karaoke masters. Come here to hang out,
has more than 20,000 new and used books. has seven mouths and some serious tourism and Mexican dishes the rest of the time, such talk, watch the plaza or catch live music if it
The friendly owners are also a great resource development going on. as panuchos (tortilla stuffed with mashed happens to be on.
for information about the area. beans, fried, then topped with shredded tur- Café Finca la Chiquilla (Av Rojo Gomez s/n; h8am-
The HSBC ATM stands off the northeast Sleeping key or chicken, onion and slices of avocado), 10pm or later) This place, directly across from
corner of the plaza. Hotels can be surprisingly full even at non- salbutes (same as panuchos but without the Don Pepe’s, is one of a kind, a great little
Computips (per hr M$15; h9am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, peak times, so call or book ahead if at all bean stuffing), sopa de pollo (chicken soup) spot with occasional live music, a full bar,
3-8:30pm Sat & Sun), an air-con internet place on possible. and tortas. and coffee that is not only freshly ground and
the plaza, is one of several Puerto Morelos Posada Amor (%871-0033; www.posadaamor.com; Le Café d’Amancia (sandwiches M$20-40; h8am-3pm roasted, but even grown and picked by the
internet cafés. s & d from M$380, tr & q M$500) About 100m south- & 6-10pm; v) This is a spotlessly clean place owners from their coffee plantation in Puebla.
QUINTANA ROO 102 R I V I E R A MAYA • • J a r d í n B o t á n i c o lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • P l a y a d e l C a r m e n 103

QUINTANA ROO
It’s very popular with locals and tourists alike. For the anthropologically minded, the Strolling down Playa del Carmen’s pe- tion, but it retains its European chic, and
Meals are also served for M$40 to M$70. preserve has re-creations of a Maya house and destrian mall, Quinta Avenida (Fifth Ave), one need just head two blocks west of the
Next to Posada Amor, the following a chiclero camp (temporary shelters where is a fabulous game of see-and-be-seen. It’s hoity-toity pedestrian mall to catch real
bookend bars are popular with expats: locals lived while extracting sap from the ‘za- where the beautiful people go – a city of glimpses of Mexico.
Bara, Bara (hnoon-1am) Appeals to a younger crowd. pote’ or chicle tree; the sap was boiled down fashion and fitness, understated chic and
Que Hora Es (hnoon-1am) and used as the base for chewing gum), as European cool. Orientation
well as some genuine Maya ruins (c AD 1400). The town is ideally located: close to Playa is mostly laid out on an easy, one-way
Shopping Bring insect repellent. Buses may be hailed Cancún’s international airport, but far enough grid. Quinta Avenida (keen-ta) is the most
One of the best reasons to come to Puerto directly in front of the garden. south to allow easy access to Cozumel, happening street in town, especially along
Morelos is to hit the artisans market, one Tulum, Cobá and other worthy destinations. its pedestrian stretch (the tourist zone). La
block south of the plaza’s west corner. You TRES RÍOS The reefs here are excellent, and offer div- Nueva Quinta (New Fifth Ave) is also called
can find authentic Tixkokob hammocks, fine Tres Ríos (%998-887-8077; www.tres-rios.com; Hwy 307 ing and snorkeling close by. Look for rays, La Zona Italiana for the number of Italians
jewelry, pottery and clothing at much better Km 54) is not open to the public, nor will it moray eels, sea turtles and a huge variety of operating businesses here. It begins on Calle
prices than you’ll see in Playa del Carmen or ever be, according to resort spokespeople. corals. The lavender sea fans make for very 22 and stretches north for 10 blocks. It’s not
Cancún. It’s refreshingly low-key, and you can Rather, it will be a superexclusive ecoresort, picturesque vistas. as happening as the old Quinta, but prob-
often see the craftspeople at work. Mauricio and open only to guests of the Hacienda Tres With daily cruise-ship visitors, Playa is ably will be in a year or two. The main bus
Soriano is the person to find for hammocks. Ríos, slated to open in the summer of 2008. starting to feel like a mass-tourism destina- terminal is at the intersection of Quinta
He will explain the different types and offers a
wide variety of styles to choose from. See p163 PUNTA BETE PLAYA DEL CARMEN 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
for more information on hammocks. Punta Bete, a rocky, reef-hugged point 65km
south of Cancún, is reached by a dirt road A B C Ca
lle 8 D
To
Getting There & Away that runs past a large new housing develop-
20 100% Natural (100m);
Alltournative (3km)
Ca Ca
Most Playa Express and Riviera buses that ment and weaves 2.5km from Hwy 307 (turn lle
12
lle
16
Av
Co
ns
travel between Cancún and Playa del Carmen at the sign for Xcalacoco) before reaching 1
Bis Ca
lle
tit
uy
en
Ca 14 tes

Av
drop you on the highway. Some Mayab buses the sea. North and south of the stubby point lle
10 Bis

30
42 Ca
enter town; the Riviera bus running between there are beautiful and occasionally wide lle To Mamitas

Av
Fo Ca 14 Beach (500m)
ot lle 5 38
Cancún airport and Playa del Carmen will pa

25
10
stretches of beach upon which sit a few small, Ca
lle
Ca
lle
th Bis
sometimes enter the town on request. The low-profile hotels, a few restaurants and a 6N 8
Wal-Mart 7 36

)
or

Av

Av
te Ca
2nd-class bus fare from Cancún is M$17. superpricey resort. Bis

20
lle

(5
12

Av
Ca
Colectivos cost M$4. Coco’s Cabanas (%/fax 998-887-5470; www.tulum 4 lle To Fisherman's

Av

ta
6 28 Cooperative (100m)

in
15
Taxis are usually waiting at the turnoff to

Qu
18
resorts.com; r low/high season M$700/850; s) consists of Ca
lle 1

Av
10 21 SLEEPING
shuttle people into town, and there’s often a five nicely decorated cabanas with electricity, 40

10
32 Blue Parrot Inn.......................16 C2
taxi or two near the plaza to shuttle people fan, good beds and hammocks. It’s a short walk 2
37
Camping-Cabanas La Ruina...17 B3
Ca 29 Hostel Playa...........................18 A2
back to the highway. Many drivers will tell you from the beach and has a bar, a small pool, a lle
8 27 Hotel Barrio Latino.................19 B3

Av

v
1A
the fare is per person or overcharge in some pleasant garden area and a restaurant. 14 16 Hotel Casa Tucán...................20 B3

30
30 Hotel Deseo...........................21 C2
other manner; strive for M$20 for the 2km The hotels and restaurants in Punta Bete Ca

Av
lle Hotel El Cielo.........................22 B3
6

25
ride, for as many people as you can stuff in. are within walking distance of each other, 24 26 13 Hotel Hacienda del Caribe......23 B3
Hotel La Ziranda....................24 A2
but you’re best off getting here by rental car 19 33

v
Hotel Mar Caribe...................25 A3

A
2 Ca
JARDÍN BOTÁNICO lle

20
Hotel Marina Sabina...............26 B2
or taxi. 41
31
4
Kinbé Hotel............................27 C2
Two kilometers south of the turnoff for Puerto 22

v
20 39

A
15 Mosquito Blue.......................28 C2

v)
15
To

5A
Morelos is the Jardín Botánico Yaax Che (admission Playa Palms............................29 C2
PLAYA DEL CARMEN Gas Station (250m); Ca 35

Av
lle

v(
Hwy 307 (300m); 9 2 Posada Mi Casa......................30 B2
11

aA
M$70; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat; c), a 60-hectare na-

10
%984 / pop 100,380 3 Alux (680m); 6

int
Calica Car Ferry to
ture reserve with nearly 3km of trails through EATING

Qu
Cozumel (10km); Av
Playa del Carmen, now the third-largest city Tulum (63km); Av Juá
23 34 INFORMATION Asadero Olmeca....................31 A3
Juá rez
several native habitats. The garden has sec- in Quintana Roo – its population more than Cancún (68km) 3 rez Banamex..................................1 C2 Babe’s....................................32 C2
43 Bancomer................................2 A3 Buenos Aires..........................33 B3
tions dedicated to epiphytes (orchids and bro- doubled over the past five years – is the hip- To La
Guacamaya 25 Centro de Salud.......................3 A3 Club Náutico Tarraya.............34 B3
17
meliads), palms, ferns, succulents (cacti and pest city on all of the Yucatán Peninsula. (100m) 10 Community Hospital................4 A2 El Cuerna de Oro...................35 B3
Ca International House..................5 C1 John Gray's Place...................36 C1
their relatives), ornamental plants and plants Sitting coolly on the lee side of Cozumel, lle
1
Ca
lle 12 L@v@nderi@ del [email protected] A3 Restaurant 100% Natural......37 C2

h
1S

ac
used in traditional Maya medicine. The flora the town’s beaches are jammed with super- ur Lavandería Giracaribe...............7 C1 Xlapak....................................38 C1

Be
Main Plaza
Playa Lingua del Caribe............8 C1
is identified in English, Spanish and Latin. The fit Europeans – they let Americans in, too, Airstrip
Post Office...............................9 A3 ENTERTAINMENT
preserve also holds a large animal population, if they meet the weight requirements! The Ca
lle
1S
Cozumel Ferry Scotiabank.............................10 B3 Blue Parrot Bar.....................(see 16)
Ticket Booth Tourist Information Office.....11 A3 Fusion....................................39 C3
including the only coastal troops of spider waters aren’t as clear as those of Cancún or 4 ur
Tourist Police Kiosk................12 B4 Tequila Barrel.........................40 C2
monkeys left in the region. Birders come to CARIBBEAN
Cozumel, and the beach sands aren’t quite SEA SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES TRANSPORT
observe the many migratory and resident bird as champagne-powder-perfect as they are Dive Mike..............................13 C2 Colectivos to Tulum...............41 A3
species. A lookout tower affords views over Phocea Riviera Maya.............14 C2 Terminal ADO........................42 B1
further north, but still Playa (as it’s locally Ferry to Yucatek Divers.......................15 B3 Terminal del Centro...............43 B3
the mangrove to Puerto Morelos and the sea. known) grows and grows. Cozumel (19km)
QUINTANA ROO 104 R I V I E R A MAYA • • P l a y a d e l C a r m e n lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels R I V I E R A MAYA • • P l a y a d e l C a r m e n 105

QUINTANA ROO
TOURIST INFORMATION but you need to be extra careful with your range. Thus, a week, even a month in Playa
THOSE MYSTERIOUS ALUXES Tourist information office (%873-2804; cnr Av belongings, as thefts are a possibility. can be affordable – and once you’re here you’ll
Aluxes (a-loosh-es) are Yucatecan forest Juárez & 15 Av; h9am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Many women go topless in Playa (though find excuses to stay. You can find great deals
sprites, and many of the Maya still believe Sun) Well stocked with brochures and usually staffed by a it’s not a common practice in most of Mexico, by heading away from the beach on Calle 4,
they can bring good or bad luck, even speaker of English, Italian and German. and generally frowned upon by locals – except Calle 6 and Calle 8 and looking beyond the
death, to those around them. Therefore, the young bucks, of course). Mamita’s Beach, tourist zone.
when forests are cleared, whether to make Dangers & Annoyances north of Calle 28, is considered the best place
a field or build a house, offerings of food, Playa is generally safe: you are very unlikely to free the girls. BUDGET
alcohol and even cigarettes are made to to experience street crime or muggings. Camping-Cabanas La Ruina (%/fax 873-0405; laruina
placate them. However, pickpockets do circulate, especially FISHING @prodigy.net.mx; Calle 2; sites or hammock spaces per person
in crowded dance clubs. Never leave valu- Playa used to be a fishing village, and you M$100, d with bathroom M$300-550, d without bathroom M$200;
ables unattended on the beach, especially on can still go out on small skiffs in search of a) Pitch your tent or hang your hammock in
Avenida and Juárez, but there is another one the isolated stretches to the north. Run-and- kingfish, tarpon, barracuda, and maybe even a large lot near the beach. It’s very casual, and
further away on Calle 12. grab thefts while victims are swimming or a sailfish. April to July is the best time. beach gear can be stored (insecurely) in the
Some people are afraid that leaving the sleeping on isolated beaches are a common Fisherman’s Cooperative (%984-130-9892; kabul courtyard. Some rooms have ceiling fans, some
tourist zone will result in instant death, or at occurrence (the jungle has eyes). [email protected]), at the beachfront kiosk near have air-con – the cheapest are bare and bleak,
least a quick mugging. Unless you’re being Avenida Constituyentes, runs four-hour trips the most expensive front the beach.
stupid, you’ve got little to fear, and the quiet from M$1800 to M$2100. Hostel Playa (%803-3277; www.hostelplaya.com; Calle
side streets have a wealth of restaurants and Sights & Activities 8; dm/d/tr M$120/300/450) While it’s a bit away from
DIVING & SNORKELING Courses the center, this is Playa’s best youth hostel.
cheap hotels.
In addition to great ocean diving, all of the Playa has a couple of good language schools. The best thing about this spirited place is the
following outfits offer cenote dives (for more While it makes more sense to study Spanish in ambience: it has a huge, central common area,
Information on nearby cenotes, see boxed text, p119). a place such as Mérida, where English is not so great kitchen, and both beer and spirits are
EMERGENCY Dive Mike (%803-1228; www.divemike.com; Calle 8), widely spoken, you can’t beat practicing your allowed until 12:30am, when people either
Ambulance, fire & police (%066) between Quinta Avenida and the beach, of- Spanish by ordering margaritas beachfront. head to bed or go out to the clubs. No meals
Tourist police kiosk (%873-2656; h24hr) Guards fers snorkeling tours by boat to reefs and a (Hint: ‘dos margaritas por favor’ will do the are served, but there’s free coffee and bot-
the north corner of the main plaza. secluded beach for M$350 including refresh- trick, and you didn’t even have to pay for a tled water (M$10 to fill a water bottle), and
ments and all gear. To tag along on a dive single class. Don’t worry Lonely Planet’s got the staff are extremely helpful and have great
INTERNET ACCESS boat is M$100. Ask the staff about cenote your back!) suggestions on what to see and do.
There are enough internet cafés in Playa to snorkel tours (M$500). English, German, International House (%803-3388; www.ihriviera Hotel Marina Sabina (%873-0113; www.mariasabina
keep Bill Gates in fancy khakis for the rest French, Italian, Danish, Norwegian, Swedish maya.com; Calle 14) Offers homestays (the best way to hotel.com; Calle 6 btwn Av 5 & 10; dm M$120, s/d M$450/550)
of his life. and Spanish are spoken. learn a language), a small residence hall and Spanish les- It’s not great, but it’s better than the other
At Phocea Riviera Maya (% 873-1210; www sons. Twenty hours of instruction per week costs M$2000. hostels in the area. The cramped rooms aren’t
LAUNDRY .phocearivieramaya.com; 1 Av) French, English and Residence hall rooms are M$300 per night (you can stay worth it, but the hostel space isn’t so bad. Plus,
L@v@nderi@ del C@rmen (Calle 2 No 402; h8am- Spanish are spoken. Yucatek Divers (%803- there even if you aren’t taking classes). Homestays are you’re right next to Quinta Avenida, so you’ll
10pm Mon-Sat) Conveniently has an internet café in front 1363; www.yucatek-divers.com; 15 Av), between Calle M$280 per night, including two meals, but you have to be definitely get the chance to party on.
of the lavandería. Between Calle 10 and Calle 15. 2 and Calle 4, has German, French, English, studying with the school. Hotel Mar Caribe (%873-0207; cnr 15 Av & Calle
Lavandería Giracaribe (10 Av; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat) Spanish and Dutch speakers, and offers Playa Lingua del Caribe (%873-3876; www.playa 1; r low season M$200-350, high season M$350-550; a)
Costs M$14 a kilogram. Between Calle 12 and Calle 14. handicapped/limited-mobility dives. lingua.com; Calle 20) Offers 20-hour-per-week classes for A simple, secure and very clean nine-room
around M$1850. It also offers occasional classes in Maya place with mostly fan-cooled rooms (there are
MEDICAL SERVICES BEACHES language, stone carving, cooking, and even salsa dancing. three rooms with air-con). The owners speak
In a medical emergency dial %066. Beachgoers will agree that it’s pretty darn French, Spanish and some English. One can
Centro de Salud (%873-0493; cnr 15 Av & Av Juárez) nice here. You can swim on Playa’s lovely Tours almost imagine Steinbeck working on a novel
Community Hospital (35 Av) white-sand beaches nearly anywhere: just Alltournative (%873-2036; www.alltournative.com; Av 38 at one of the dark wooden tables.
head down to the ocean, stretch out and Norte, L3 M200; h9am-7pm Mon-Sat) offers packages
enjoy. Numerous restaurants front the beach include ziplining, rappelling and kayaking, MIDRANGE
MONEY in the tourist zone; flag down a waiter if as well as custom-designed trips. It also takes Posada Mi Casa (%873-1972; [email protected]
These are some of the many banks around you need something frosty to beat the heat. you to nearby Maya villages for an ‘authen- .mx; cnr Quinta Av & Calle 8; d low season M$400-500, high
town. Nights are breezy, sometimes chilly, so bring tic’ experience, that could easily be had on season M$500-600; a) A very reasonable op-
Banamex (cnr Calle 12 & 10 Av) more than just a bathing suit if you’re plan- your own. tion right in the center of the Zona, the Mi
Bancomer (Av Juárez) ning on going for a midnight stroll. Casa has spotless tiled-floor rooms and large
Scotiabank (Quinta Av) If crowds aren’t your thing, go north of Sleeping bathrooms, though some rooms could use an
Calle 38, where a few scrawny palms serve for Surprisingly affordable hotels can be found extra chair…or even a chair at all. The friendly
POST shade. Here the beach extends for uncrowded even in the tourist zone, and a number of owners will let you leave luggage in a back
Post office (cnr 15 Av & Av Juárez; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) kilometers, making for good camping, hostels offer dorm-style lodging in the M$100 room even after you’ve checked out.
QUINTANA ROO 106 R I V I E R A MAYA • • P l a y a d e l C a r m e n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • P l a y a d e l C a r m e n 107

QUINTANA ROO
Hotel La Ziranda (%873-3933; www.hotellaziranda TOP END and other healthy foods – are delicious and Norah Jones croons in the background as you
.com; Calle 4; r with air-con low/high season M$400/700; Hotel Hacienda del Caribe (%873-3132; www.hacienda filling. There’s another branch on the corner polish off your glass of wine. Calle Corazón is
a) This place was constructed in late 2000. delcaribe.com; Calle 2 No 130; d low/high season M$670/900; of Quinta Avenida and Calle 22. between Calle 12 and Calle 14.
Its two peach-colored buildings have 15 nice as) This Mexican-run place was built in Babe’s (Calle 10; mains M$50-100; hnoon-11:30pm Alux (%803-2936; Av Juárez; mains M$120-140;
rooms, all with balconies or terraces and two 2000. Its bright-yellow, quiet, comfortable Mon-Sat, 5-11:30pm Sun) Babe’s serves some excel- h7pm-2am) About three blocks west of Hwy
double beds or one king. Trees have been left rooms have lovely décor, air-con and cable lent Thai food, including a yummy homestyle 307, the Alux is an amazing must-visit. It’s a
in place and several walkways have holes to TV. Many have balconies. The courtyard has tom kha gai (chicken and coconut-milk soup) restaurant-lounge situated in a cavern: sta-
allow them to grow. Fan-cooled rooms are a small pool with hydromassage, and parking brimming with veggies. Excellent Vietnamese lactites, stalagmites, pools and all. Candles
M$100 cheaper. in a nearby lot is free while you stay. salad (with shrimp and mango) is another and dim electric lights illuminate numerous
Hotel Barrio Latino (%/fax 873-2384; www.hotel Blue Parrot Inn (%206-3350, in USA 800-435-0668; specialty. Most dishes can be done vegetar- nooks and crannies converted into sofalike
barriolatino.com; Calle 4; d low season M$400-500, high sea- Calle 12; r low season M$1240-2840, high season M$2330-5370; ian, and to mix things up a bit the Swedish seating. Wander through, have a bite to eat or
son M$700-900; ai) Offers 16 clean, colorful ai) Many of the charming units have ter- cook has some tasty Greek items on the a drink and revel in the atmosphere. It offers
rooms with good ventilation, ceiling fans, races, sea views and full kitchens. But it’s a bit menu as well. There’s another Babe’s along live music nightly at 10pm, and a party on
tiled floors, bathrooms and hammocks (in pricey to not be right on the ocean. It also has the Nueva Quinta. Saturday night. Snacks are M$40 to M$90.
addition to beds). The friendly Italian owners an immensely popular bar (opposite). Club Náutico Tarraya (%873-2040; Calle 2; mains Head out of the tourist zone to find cheap,
speak English and Spanish, the place is often Hotel Deseo (%879-3620; www.hoteldeseo.com; cnr M$50-120; hnoon-9pm) One of the few restau- quality eats such as great grilled chicken from
full and the front gate is always kept locked. Quinta Av & Calle 12; d M$1680-2380; ais) If you rants in Playa del Carmen that dates from Asadero Olmeca (Calle 2; mains M$30; h7am-6pm), next
Discounted rates for extended stays. Rates can still afford your rock-and-roll lifestyle, the 1960s. It continues to offer good seafood to the Tulum-bound colectivos. There’s a ton
include breakfast, and guests get to make free then you’re going to love the hi-fi lounge at- at decent prices in a casual place on the beach of cheap food stands on Avenida 10 between
international calls at certain times of day. mosphere of Deseo. There’s a very chill lounge with a nice view. Calle 8 and Calle 10 near the center. Choose
Hotel Casa Tucán (%/fax 873-0283; www.casatucan and plunge pool right in front of your blind- La Guacamaya (cnr Calle 1 Sur & Av 30; meals M$60 between tacos, kebabs and pizza.
.de; Calle 4; r low season M$450-650, high season M$500-650; ingly white room (white is evidently the color hnoon-10pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) Locals love this
as) This German-run hotel is a warren of of desire). Pay a bit more for an upstairs bal- large open-air restaurant. Veggies beware, if it Entertainment
29 rooms of several types. Rooms have fans cony room, and be prepared to stay up late. doesn’t have hoofs, it’s unlikely to make it on Venues here come and go, so ask around
or air-con, a couple have kitchenettes, and the Mosquito Blue (%873-1245; www.mosquitoblue the menu. Try the tablazo, a monstro mixed if you’re wondering where the party is (or
cheapest don’t have bathrooms. The Tucán .com; Quinta Av; r low season M$2090-4050, high season grill with every cut of meat imaginable for where it isn’t). You’ll find everything from
has a swimming pool, a pleasant tropical gar- M$2720-4750; ais) Between Calle 12 and less than M$100. mellow, tranced-out lounge bars to classic
den and a café serving good, affordable food. Calle 14. Strives for – and at times achieves – Xlapak (% 879-3595; Quinta Av; meals M$70-180; rock-and-roll places. Here are a few options
Between Avenidas 10 and 15. ultrachicness. Its cloistered interior boasts two h8am-11pm) Serves delicious food at unbeliev- we found fun.
Hotel El Cielo (%873-1227; www.hotelcielo.com; Calle pools and courtyards, a bar and restaurant, ably low prices. Lunch and dinner consists of Tequila Barrel (%873-1061; Quinta Av; h8am-2am)
4; d low/high season M$550/1150; i) On the low-end and very nicely decorated rooms furnished a starter, a main dish (accompanied by rice, With a large dancing area in back, this spark-
of Playa’s new chic boutiques is the Cielo. in Indonesian mahogany. Art and artistic steamed veggies and garlic bread) and a des- ling clean bar and grill between Calles 10 and
Funky, modern rooms come with creamsicle- touches abound throughout the hotel, which sert. Try the chicken with chaya (a spinach- 12 pours a huge selection of tequila and other
and-red bed covers and hand-painted azule- has junior and master suites as well as the like green) salsa and wash it down with one spirits, and spins old rock and Motown CDs.
jos (a welcomed rustic touch in an otherwise standard and deluxe rooms. of a wide selection of juices and drinks. The Blue Parrot Bar (%873-0083; Calle 12; h11am-
modern environment). There are plans to restaurant is very nicely done up like a Maya 4am) This is the Blue Parrot Inn’s immensely
make a lounge upstairs. It’s between Avenidas Eating temple, with faithfully rendered reproductions popular open-sided palapa beachfront bar
10 and Quinta. As happens in other tourist-oriented places on of Maya murals on the walls and plants every- with swing chairs, a giant outdoor dance stage,
oKinbé Hotel (%873-0441; www.kinbe.com; the Yucatán Peninsula, some Playa restaurants where. It’s between Calle 14 and Calle 14 Bis. indoor section if the weather’s bad…and lots
Calle 10; d low/high season M$640/830, ste M$1220/1690; add a service charge to the bill. You are not Buenos Aires (%873-2751; Calle 6; mains M$90- of sand.
a) An Italian-owned and operated hotel, it required to pay it; however, a 10% to 15% tip 240; hnoon-11:30pm) In a new location, this oFusion (Calle 6; huntil late) Groove out
has 29 clean, simple but elegant rooms with for good service is appreciated. Argentinean-owned steak house is well known beachside under that Playa moon at Fusion.
lovely aesthetic touches, azure bedspreads, a El Cuerna de Oro (cnr Calle 2 & 10 Av; set meals M$30-50; for its parrilla, an all-you-can-eat smorgas- There’s live music most nights.
gorgeous lush courtyard garden and a breezy h7am-10pm) Hearty, homestyle set meals are bord (M$350 for two people). Waiters bring
rooftop terrace with fab views from the 3rd served in this casual eatery near the bus sta- your meat to you on a skewer. You can also Getting There & Away
floor. It’s near 1 Avenida. tion. You get a giant portion of your selected sample ribs, empanadas, burgers and other BOAT
Playa Palms (%803-3908; www.playapalms.com; Av dish (the three or four options change nightly) ‘lighter’ fare. Ferries to Cozumel (M$110 one way) leave
1 Bis; d low/high season M$720/1330; is) A rip- plus rice, beans and unlimited refills of the John Gray’s Place (%803-3689; www.johngrayrestaur at 6am, 8am, 9am, 10am, 11am, 1pm, 3pm,
roaring deal in low season (get the best price nightly drink, such as hibiscus water or iced ants.com; Calle Corazón 5TA; mains M$110-250; h6-11pm 5pm, 6pm, 7pm, 9pm and 11pm. The air-
online), Playa Palms is right on the beach. tea. The breakfasts are skippable. Mon-Sat) The sister restaurant to John Gray’s conditioned catamaran takes about a half-
The shell-shaped rooms have balconies that oRestaurant 100% Natural (%873-2242; Kitchen in Puerto Morelos, it has a dark-wood hour, depending on weather. Buy tickets at the
look out to the ocean past the curly-whirly cnr Quinta Av & Calle 10; mains M$35-100; h7am-11pm; bar downstairs, and the same spectacular food. booth on Calle 1 Sur. An open-air boat (same
dip pool. Go with the cheaper studios to get v) The trademarks of this quickly establish- Crab cakes melt on the tongue, set off by a dash ticket price but running less regularly) takes
the best views at the best price. All rooms ing chain – vegetable- and fruit-juice blends, of Asian vinaigrette and a few cilantro leaves. 45 minutes to an hour; it operates mostly in
have kitchenettes. salads, various vegetable and chicken dishes Chicken with cilantro pesto is a favorite. the summer season.
QUINTANA ROO 108 R I V I E R A MAYA • • I s l a C o z u m e l lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • I s l a C o z u m e l 109

QUINTANA ROO
flourished as a trade center and, more im- population to Christianity. Smallpox intro-
BUS SERVICES FROM PLAYA DEL CARMEN portantly, a ceremonial site. Every Maya duced by the Spanish wiped out half the
Destination Cost (M$) Duration (hr) Departures woman living on the Yucatán Peninsula 8000 Maya and, of the survivors, only about
and beyond was expected to make at least 200 escaped genocidal attacks by conquista-
Cancún 34 1 numerous 4am-midnight
Cancún international airport 80 1 frequent ADO buses 8am-6:15pm
one pilgrimage here to pay tribute to Ixchel, dors in the late 1540s.
Chetumal 18-18.80 5-5½ 9 ADO buses 6:15am-11:56pm, numerous the goddess of fertility and the moon, at a The island remained virtually deserted
Mayab buses 1:30am-11:15pm temple erected in her honor. Archaeologists into the late 17th century, its coves provid-
Chichén Itzá 18 3-4 1 ADO bus at 8am believe this temple was at San Gervasio, a bit ing sanctuary for several notorious pirates,
Cobá 68 1-1¾ ADO buses at 8am & 9am north of the island’s geographical center. including Jean Lafitte and Henry Morgan.
Mérida 310 5 Frequent ADO buses; ADO GL at 4pm, At the time of the first Spanish contact In 1848 indigenous people fleeing the War
9:30pm & 11:45pm with Cozumel (in 1518, by Juan de Grijalva of the Castes began to resettle Cozumel. At
Palenque 540 12-13 ADO GL at 7pm and his men), there were at least 32 Maya the beginning of the 20th century the is-
San Cristóbal de Las Casas 780 16-18 ADO GL at 7pm building groups on the island. According land’s (by then mostly mestizo) population
Tulum 22 1 frequent Riviera & Mayab buses to Spanish chronicler Diego de Landa, a grew, thanks to the craze for chewing gum.
Valladolid 77-140 2½-3½ Mayab at 7:30am & 2:30pm year later Hernán Cortés sacked one of the Cozumel was a port of call on the chicle
Maya centers but left the others intact, ap- export route, and locals harvested the gum
parently satisfied with converting the island’s base on the island. After the demise of chicle
BUS Virgin, there’s a spirited Caribbean pathos,
Playa has two bus terminals; each sells tickets and of course there’s some tourist things to
and provides information for at least some do, such as diving down to some of the best ISLA COZUMEL 0
0
8 km
4 miles
of the other’s departures. The newer one, damned reefs in the world. Playa del
Carmen See Playa del
Terminal ADO (20 Av), just east of Calle 12, is A hugely popular diving spot since 1961, Carmen Map (p103)
where most 1st-class buslines arrive and de- when Jacques Cousteau, led by local guides, MEX
307
part. Riviera’s buses (which don’t entirely de- showed its spectacular reefs to the world, Fe Punta
rry Molas
serve the designation ‘1st-class’ anyhow) use Cozumel lies 71km south of Cancún. Measuring to
Pl Lighthouse
the old terminal. A taxi from Terminal ADO 53km by 14km, it is Mexico’s largest island. ay
a
de Punta
lC Norte
to the main plaza will run about M$15. Called Ah-Cuzamil-Peten (Island of Swallows) ar
m
Laguna
Aguada
en Hotel Xlapak
The old bus station, Terminal del Centro by its earliest inhabitants, Cozumel has become Playa
Grande
Azul Av Rafael
(cnr Av Juárez & Quinta Av), gets all the 2nd-class a world-famous diving and cruise-ship destina- Ca
rF
err Melgar El Castillo
yt Club Cozumel Caribe
(called ‘intermedio’ by such lines as Mayab) tion. Hurricane Wilma did some serious damage oC
alic See San Miguel de
Santa
Pilar
Real
a
services. Riviera buses to Cancún and its air- to the snorkeling sites around the island – Cozumel Map (p111) Playa
Xhanan
Airport
port have a separate ticket counter on the while they are still beautiful, it will take years Santa
Rita
San Miguel San
Avenida Juárez side of the terminal. The for them to recover completely. Fortunately, de Cozumel Gervasio
Playa
table (above) shows some distances, travel most of the deep-water reefs missed the brunt Playa la Ceiba Presidente
Ca
Bonita
Dzul-Há Intercontinental Road Closed
times and prices for buses. of the storm. The squadrons of eagle rays have Cozumel rre
te
ra to Cars

y
Hw
Tr
dwindled due to overfishing of the shellfish Bahía
Chankanaab
an
sv San Benito

ab
er
stocks – no shellfish, no eagle rays.

na
sa
COLECTIVOS l

ank a
While diving and snorkeling are the main Isla Cozumel Playa
Colectivos are a great option for cheap travel

Ch
Los Cocos
Parque
southward to Tulum (M$25, 45 minutes). draws, the tourist zone offers lots of shopping Chankanaab Playa
Santa
They depart from Calle 2 near 20 Avenida ‘deals’ (often not very cheap), and a pleasant Cecilia
town square in which to spend the afternoon. Ventanas al Mar
as soon as they fill (about every 10 or 15 Santa
Rosa Wall Playa San
Nachi-Cocom Coconuts Bar
& Grill Punta
Beach Club
minutes) from 5am to 10pm. They will stop In February there is a festive Carnaval, which Francisco Morena
Playa
anywhere along the highway between Playa brings dancers festooned with feathers out Parque Marino Chen Río
Nacional Arrecifes
and Tulum, charging a minimum of M$10. into the streets. It’s not Rio, but it’s still fun. de Cozumel El Galeon
El Cedral
Luggage space is somewhat limited, but There are some small Maya ruins and a few Palancar
Gardens
Playa de
San Martín
Playa
they’re great for day trips. eco-themed parks. Palancar
Arrecife Punta
The less-visited, windswept far side of the Palancar

Co
Chiqueros

ste
ISLA COZUMEL island has beautiful beaches and a few large Colombia CARIBBEAN
ra
Shallows Playa El

Su
%987 / pop 73,200 waves. Rent a scooter or convertible bug and Laguna

r
Mirador
Colombia SEA
Cozumel is too resilient, too proud to give head over for a picnic lunch, but watch the
Rasta Bar
into the Señor Frog’s of this world. And currents if you head out for a swim or surf. Punta Sur Chun
Chacab Playa Box
Playa Encantada
leaving the tourist area – and the Señor Punta Parque Punta Sur
Frog’s merchandise megamart behind – you History Celarain Lighthouse

still see an island of quiet cool and genuine Maya settlement here dates from AD 300.
authenticity. Garages still have shrines to the During the post-Classic period Cozumel
QUINTANA ROO 110 R I V I E R A MAYA • • I s l a C o z u m e l lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • S a n M i g u e l d e C o z u m e l 111

QUINTANA ROO
Cozumel’s economy remained strong owing day, but the shelves used are not big enough

Hotel Flamingo......................22 D1

Suites Vima............................24 D2

D2

D1

D2

D2

Estadio Javier Rojo Gomez.....35 D3

Manati...................................37 D2

ADO Terminal....................... 38 D2
Gas Station............................39 D3
Hotel Pepita...........................23 C3

A3

C2

C3

La Abuelita............................36 C2

Rentadora Isis........................40 C2
La Cocay.............................(see 29)
B3
B3
B3
To Airport
(1km)
0.3 mile
500 m
to the construction of a US air base here for a full-sized backpack.

Cocina Mexicana Los Ríos......25

Coffeelia................................26
Costa Brava............................27
Jeannie’s Waffle House..........28
La Cocay...............................29
Los Dorados de Villa..............30
Pancho’s Backyard.................31

Zermatt............................. 32
Restaurant La Choza..............33
Taquería El Sitio..................... 34
during WWII.
When the US military departed, the island MEDICAL SERVICES

Pastelería y Panadería
fell into an economic slump, and many of its There are at least two hyperbaric chambers

ENTERTAINMENT
people moved away. Those who stayed fished in San Miguel.

TRANSPORT
for a living until 1961, when Cousteau’s doc- Buceo Médico Mexicano (%872-1430; fax 872-1848; e
umentary broadcast Cozumel’s glorious sea Calle 5 Sur) Between Avenida Rafael Melgar and Avenida Nt

EATING
70
Av
life to the world. The tourists began arriving 5 Sur.
almost overnight. Cozumel Hyperbaric Research (%872-0103; Calle

Cozumel Hyperbaric Research..3 D1

9 D2

D1
Telecomm Office...................(see 8)
Banorte....................................1 C2

Express Lavandería...................4 C3
Fama.......................................5 C2
HSBC.......................................6 C2
7 C2

Tourist Information Office.....11 C2

Tourist Police.........................12 A3

Deep Blue..............................13 C3
Museo de la Isla de Cozumel..14 C1

C4
C2

C2
C3
C2
C2
Buceo Médico Mexicano..........2 B3

8 B3

Tourist Information Kiosk.......10 B3

6 Norte) Between Avenida 5 and Avenida 10 Norte, in the e
Nt
e
Nt
65

Amigos B&B.......................... 15
Colonial Hotel & Suites..........16
Hacienda San Miguel.............17
Hostelito Affordable + Clean..18
Hotel Bahía............................19
Hotel Cozumel Inn.................20
Hotel Edem............................21
60
Orientation & Information Médica San Miguel clinic.

e 2 Office...............................
CPhonet.....................................

Servi-Lav.................................
Av Av

It’s easy to make your way on foot around

0
0
the island’s only town, San Miguel de MONEY

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

e
nal

Nt
E
e
Nt

acio

4
Cozumel. The waterfront boulevard is ATMs are the best way to get quick cash. For 50

lle
INFORMATION
Av

tern

Ca
Avenida Rafael Melgar; along Melgar south currency exchange, try any of the banks near e
Nt
ur

In
e S
Nt 45 55

rto
the main plaza, such as Banorte or HSBC. All

SLEEPING
e
of the main ferry dock (Muelle Fiscal) is a Nt 40 Av Av

pue

e
35 Av

Nt
narrow sand beach. The main plaza is op- are open 8am or 9am to 4:30pm Monday to Av

ero

Post
dA

all
posite the ferry dock. The airport is 2km Friday and on Saturday morning. The many

Blv
northeast. Much of the roads in the town’s casas de cambio (currency-exchange houses) r
Su
50
around town may charge as much as 3.5%

e
center were under construction as of press

s
Nt
e 0 Av

ala
ez o
Nt v 3 r

ár nit
Su

oS
25
e
Nt

Ju Be
commission (the bank rate is 1%) to cash a

e
A 45

sad
time, but local authorities say they should be

Nt

Av
Nt

al Mar (20km)
r
37
15

Av
Av

Su
r

Ro
35 To Ventanas
12
Su

10
Av
traveler’s check.

o
0
back to normal soon.
e

lle
Nt v4

olf
lle

lle
D

Ca

Ad
Ca

29

Ca
A

te
20

Park
17

39
3 8N
les

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An excellent documentary on Cozumel Av ge

lle
e
24
lle

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n

Ca
eÁ
POST

e
Ca

lle 9
diving is available at www.cozumelnatural

Nt

4
lip

Municipal
lle
e

6
Fe

Mercado
Nt

Ca
Post office (cnr Calle 7 Sur & Av Rafael Melgar; h9am-

r
al
treasure.com.

Su
31

22
r er

Nt
10

Ca
Club Cozumel Caribe (4km)
Su

3
n

To Casitas Beach (200m);

Av

2
Ge

ez
Hotel Playa Azul (4km);
0

lle
5pm Mon-Fri)
3

lle
32
The following places are all in San Miguel

38

ár
Av lle

Ca
e

34
Nt

Ca

Ju
ca r Ca
uji Su

to
5 r
de Cozumel. Av Su 35

ni
M

Be
co

1 18

Cruz
Roja
25 Av

14
is

40

Av
TELEPHONE r Av nc

21
Su

20
ra

7
r lF
ar 1 Su ra
The Telecomm office, near the post of- lle

36
20 e
elg
Ca
en
BOOKSTORES

s
Av eG

elo
lM
fice, handles faxes, money orders and such.

23
ll

r
e

or
Su
Ca
Fama (%872-5020; Av 5 Norte; h9am-10pm Mon- fa

11

M
Ra

15

lle
Telmex card phones are abundant around Av

Av
Main
Plaza

Ca
Sun) Carries books and periodicals in English and Spanish.

13
s
ala
4
16
C

6
town and are often cheaper than making calls

oS
Between Avenida Benito Juárez and Calle 2 Norte.

ad
o
lg

30

os

33
at internet cafés. da

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Su
r Hi

15
(Muelle Fiscal)

olf
3
r
ll e

Ad
Ferry Dock
Ca

Passenger
lle
Su

Dr
EMERGENCY Ca 10

lle
e) Av

Ca
TOURIST INFORMATION

19

Diving (200m)
Av

Brito Barreiro
Tourist police Patrols the island and staffs a kiosk (open ur
5S
a

To Victor
nt
Tourist information office (%869-0211; h8am- ui
Ca
lle
8am to 11pm) one-quarter of a block inland on Calle 11 (Q

26
r
8pm) Operates kiosks at the passenger ferry, cruise-ship Su

km
Sur from Avenida Rafael Melgar.

25
5
ur

19
Av
and car-ferry docks. 7S

2
en
lle

27
Ca

m
ar
ur

lC
9S
INTERNET ACCESS

de
lle
SAN MIGUEL DE COZUMEL
Sights & Activities Ca

a
ay
Phonet (Av Benito Juárez 5; per hr M$15; h8am-11pm
Pl

8
B
MUSEO DE LA ISLA DE COZUMEL
to

r
Su
Mon-Sun) rry

1
Exhibits at the fine Museo de la Isla de Cozumel
Fe

1
lle

r
Su
10

Ca
(%872-1434; Av Rafael Melgar; admission M$30; h8am-

13
lle
LAUNDRY 5pm) in San Miguel present a clear and detailed

ur
Ca
Cruise
SEA

Dock
Ship

Intercontinental Cozumel (7km); 15 S

r
Su
Express Lavandería (%872-2932; Calle Dr Adolfo picture of the island’s flora, fauna, geography,
5

lle
Av

Ca
Rosado Salas; h8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 8:30am-4pm Sun) geology and ancient Maya history. Thoughtful

CARIBBEAN

12
Self-serve washing and drying costs M$50 per load.

Park
and detailed signs in English and Spanish ac-

Palacio
Municipal
Between Avenidas 5 and 10 Sur.

Car Ferry Docks (7km);

company the exhibits. It’s a good place to
Servi-Lav (%872-3951; Av 10 Norte; h8am-8pm Mon-

28
learn about coral before hitting the water,

ur
Sat) Charges M$10 per kilogram. Between Calles 6 and 8.

To Presidente
and it’s one not to miss before you leave the

S
A

17
lle
island. A courtyard in the back contains a na r
lga

Ca
Me
LEFT LUGGAGE (thatched Maya hut) with someone in attend- el
Ra
fa
Av
A convenience store at the landward end of ance who will explain (in Spanish) the various
the ferry dock stores luggage for M$20 per
2

3
elements that made up Maya domestic life: the
1

4
QUINTANA ROO 112 R I V I E R A MAYA • • I s l a C o z u m e l lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • I s l a C o z u m e l 113

QUINTANA ROO
toys, utensils, foodstuffs, a raised garden bed Victor Brito Barreiro (%/fax 872-3223; www.angel
for kitchen herbs and more. fire.com/ga/cozumeldiving) Based south of town. Victor is COZUMEL’S TOP DIVE SITES
head of Cozumel’s diving instructors association and has Ask any dive operator in Cozumel to name the best dive sites in the area and the following
DIVING many years of experience. Highly recommended. names will come up time and again.
Despite the massive hit of Hurricane Wilma,
Cozumel – and its 65 surrounding reefs – re- If you encounter a decompression emergency, Santa Rosa Wall
mains one of the most popular diving des- head immediately to one of Cozumel’s two This is the biggest of the famous sites. The wall is so large most people are able to see only a
tinations in the world. ‘It will take 10 years hyperbaric chambers (p110). third of it on one tank. Regardless of where you’re dropped, expect to find enormous overhangs
without a hurricane for the reef to get back in and tunnels covered with corals and sponges. Stoplight parrot fish, black grouper and barracuda
shape,’ says Deep Blue’s Pedro Venegas. ‘[But] SNORKELING hang out here. The average visibility is 30m and minimum depth 10m, with an average closer
even a year after Wilma, the reef’s recupera- Good snorkeling can be found at Casitas just to 25m. Carry a flashlight with you, even if you’re diving at noon, as it will help to bring out
tion was incredible.’ north of San Miguel de Cozumel and Dzul-Há the color of coral at depth and illuminate the critters hiding in crevices. Hurricane Wilma left
It has fantastic year-round visibility (com- to the south. Snorkelers are required to pay shallower spots with uncovered coral, but for the most part it is unharmed.
monly 30m or more) and a jaw-droppingly M$20 for park admission. The best snorkeling
impressive variety of marine life that includes sites are reached by boat. A half-day boat tour Punta Sur Reef
spotted eagle rays, moray eels, groupers, will cost from M$350 to M$500. Most strictly Unforgettable for its coral caverns, each of which is named, this reef is for experienced, properly
barracudas, turtles, sharks, brain coral and snorkeling outfits operating in town go to certified divers only. Before you dive be sure to ask your dive master to point out the Devil’s
some huge sponges. The island has strong one of three stretches of reef near town, all Throat. This cave opens into a cathedral room with four tunnels, all of which make for some
currents (normally around 3 knots), making accessible from the beach. If you go with a pretty hairy exploration. Only advanced divers should consider entering the Devil’s Throat, but
drift dives the standard, especially along the dive outfit instead, you can often get to better anyone who visits Punta Sur Reef will be impressed by the cave system and the butterfly fish,
many walls. Even when diving or snorkeling spots, such as Palancar Reef or the adjacent angelfish and whip corals that abound here.
from the beach you should evaluate condi- Colombia Shallows, near the island’s south-
tions and plan your route, selecting an exit ern end. Ramón Zapata (%044 987-100-2256) runs Colombia Shallows
point down-current beforehand, then staying snorkeling trips leaving from Playa Palancar Also known as Colombia Gardens, Colombia Shallows lends itself equally well to snorkeling and
alert for shifts in currents. Always keep an eye for about M$250 per person, but you’ll need scuba diving. Because it’s a shallow dive (maximum depth 10m, average 2m to 4m), its massive
out (and your ears open) for boat traffic as to make your own way to the beach. coral buttresses covered with sponges and other resplendent life-forms are well illuminated. The
well. It’s best not to snorkel alone away from You can save on boat fares (and see fewer current at Colombia Gardens is generally light to moderate. This and the shallow water allows
the beach area. fish) by walking into the gentle surf north of you to spend hours at the site if you want, and you’ll never get bored spying all the elkhorn
Prices vary, but in general expect to pay town. One good spot is Hotel Playa Azul, coral, pillar coral and anemones that live here.
about M$880 for a two-tank dive (less if you 4km north of the turnoff to the airport; its
bring your own buoyancy control device and palapas offer shade, and it has a swimming Palancar Gardens
regulator), M$650 for an introductory ‘resort’ area with a sheltering wharf and a small ar- Also known as Palancar Shallows, and thus one of the spots that sustained serious Wilma dam-
course and M$4000 for PADI open-water cer- tificial reef. If you’d like to sit at one of the age, this dive can be appreciated by snorkelers due to the slight current usually found here and
tification. Multiple-dive packages and dis- palapas the waiters ask only that you buy its modest maximum depth (20m). The Gardens consists of a strip reef about 25m wide and
counts for groups or those paying in cash can a drink or a bite to eat. Next door to the very long, riddled with fissures and tunnels. The major features here are enormous stovepipe
bring these rates down significantly. For more south, the Club Cozumel Caribe (%800-833-5971; sponges and vivid yellow tube sponges, and you can always find damselfish, parrot fish and
information, pick up a copy of Lonely Planet’s www.clubcozumelcaribe.info) has underwater ce- angelfish around you. In the deeper parts of the reef, divers will want to keep an eye out for
Diving & Snorkeling Cozumel, with detailed ment statuary that makes for some interest- the lovely black corals.
descriptions of local dive sites. ing snorkeling. It has a decent beach and
There are scores of dive operators on pool, and, as of press time, you didn’t need
Cozumel. The following are some reputa- to pay anything to get in. You will need to Sad to say, access to many of Cozumel’s best Several sites along the island’s west coast
ble ones that come recommended. All limit fork over some cash, however, to don snor- stretches of beach has become limited. Resorts offer horse riding (most of the horses look
the size of their groups to six or eight divers, kel gear (M$50) or test your mettle on the and residential developments with gated roads ready to keel over). The asking price is M$160
and take pains to match up divers of similar rock-climbing wall (M$350). It also has a create the most difficulties. Pay-for-use beach an hour; bargain hard.
skill levels. Some offer snorkeling and deep- snack bar. clubs occupy some other prime spots, but you
sea fishing trips as well as dives and diving can park and walk through or around them Parque Chankanaab
instruction. Those out of the center will EXPLORING THE ISLAND and enjoy adjacent parts of the beach without A popular snorkeling spot, especially when
provide transport. In order to see most of the island you will obligation. Sitting under their umbrellas or cruise ships are in port, is Parque Chankanaab
Deep Blue (%/fax 872-5653; www.deepbluecozumel have to rent a vehicle or take a taxi; cyclists otherwise using the facilities requires you to (admission M$160; h7am-6pm; c). However,
.com; cnr Av 10 Sur & Calle Dr Adolfo Rosado Salas) This will need to brave the regular strong winds. fork out some money, either a straight fee or a there’s not a lot to see in the water beyond
PADI, National Association of Underwater Instructors The following route will take you south from consumo mínimo (minimum consumption of some brightly colored fish and deliberately
(NAUI), Technical Diving International (TDI) and Inter- San Miguel, then counterclockwise around food and drink), which can add up to a pretty sunken artificial objects. The beach is a nice
national Association of Nitrox and Technical Divers, Inc the island. There are some places along the ridiculous M$150 per person in some places. one, though, and 50m inland is a limestone
(IANTD) operation has very good gear and fast boats that way to stop for food and drink, but it’s good It’s not always strictly applied, especially when lagoon surrounded by iguanas and inhab-
give you a chance to get more dives out of a day. to bring water all the same. business is slow. ited by turtles. You’re not allowed to swim or
QUINTANA ROO 114 R I V I E R A MAYA • • I s l a C o z u m e l lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels R I V I E R A MAYA • • I s l a C o z u m e l 115

QUINTANA ROO
snorkel here, but it’s picturesque all the same. a trail through mangrove or a bridge over structures are small and crude, and the clay MIDRANGE
The beach is lined with palapas and fiberglass the lagoon. idols of Ixchel were long ago destroyed by The following listings are in San Miguel de
lounge chairs, and you can rent snorkel and the Spaniards. Cozumel.
dive equipment. East Coast Suites Vima (%/fax 872-5118; Av 10 Norte; s/d
Dolphin shows are included in the admis- The eastern shoreline is the wildest part of Sleeping M$400/500; as) Has spotless and spacious
sion price, as is the use of dressing rooms, the island and presents some beautiful sea- All hotel rooms come with private bathroom modern rooms with tiled floors, Barney
lockers and showers. There’s a small archaeo- scapes and many small blowholes (there’s a and fan, unless otherwise noted. Almost all Rubble–hard beds, good air-con and bath-
logical park containing replica Olmec heads bunch around Km 30.5). Swimming is dan- places raise their rates at Christmas and Easter. rooms, fridges, tables and chairs. The décor
and Maya artifacts, a small museum featuring gerous on most of the east coast because of ‘High season’ is mid-December to mid-April, is mint green, highlighted by other pastels. A
objects from Chichén Itzá, and a botanical riptides and undertows. With a bit of care but whatever the season, if business is slow, small swimming pool with a current to swim
garden with 400 species of tropical plants. you can sometimes swim at Punta Chiqueros, most places are open to negotiation. against lies in a green area in back. No kids
Other facilities include a restaurant, a bar and Playa Chen Río and Punta Morena. aged under 13, please.
snack shops. A taxi from town costs M$100 As you travel along the coast, consider BUDGET Amigo’s B&B (%872-3868; www.cozumelbedandbreak
one way. stopping for lunch or a drink at the Rasta The following listings are in San Miguel de fast.net; Calle 7 Sur No 57; d/tr/q Jan 4-Apr 30 M$650/750/850,
Bar (Km 29.5), El Galeon (Km 43.1) or Cozumel. Sep & Oct M$400/500/600, May 1-Aug 31 & Nov 1-Dec 20
El Cedral Coconuts Bar & Grill (Km 43.5). El Galeon oHostelito Affordable + Clean (%869-8157; M$500/600/700; ais) Has a large garden, wi-
This Maya ruin is the oldest on the island. rents surf and boogie boards for M$200 and www.hostelito.com; Av 10; dm M$120, d M$350) The name fi access, an inviting pool and a good lounging
It’s the size of a small house and has no or- M$70 per hour, respectively. Or just bring a says it all: brand-spanking new Hostelito is area stocked with reading material. It’s worth
namentation, but costs nothing to visit and is picnic lunch and plan on having the beach affordable and clean. There’s one shared dorm the hike from the center to enjoy one of the
easy to reach, unlike San Gervasio and other to yourself. room downstairs for boys and girls with bam- three well-appointed, cottage-style rooms
ruins on Cozumel. It’s 3.5km down a signed boo privacy screens, giant lockers and amaz- here. All have air-con and full kitchenettes and
paved road that heads off to the left (east) a Punta Molas ingly clean showers. (How’s that for truth in rates include a good breakfast. Book ahead.
kilometer or two south of Nachi-Cocom’s Beyond where the east-coast highway meets advertising?) Upstairs you’ll find a great ter- Hotel Bahía (%872-9090, 800-227-2639; www.suites
access road, hiding amid a forest of pole struc- the Carretera Transversal, intrepid travelers race, kitchen and common area, as well as a bahia.com; cnr Av Rafael Melgar & Calle 3 Sur; d with balcony/
tures painted yellow and white and erected as may take a poorly maintained, infrequently six-person group room and two doubles. It ocean view M$660/800; ai) Offers some rooms
souvenir stalls. El Cedral is thought to have traveled and almost impossible to find track has wi-fi and luggage storage and is located with sea views and balconies. All rooms have
been an important ceremonial site; the small toward Punta Molas, the island’s northeast between Avenida Benito Juárez and Calle 2 the same amenities and general setup as the
church standing next to the tiny ruin today point, accessible only by all-terrain vehicles Norte on Avenida 10. Colonial (they’re under the same manage-
is evidence that the site still has religious sig- (ATV) or on foot. If you head up this road Hotel Edem (%872-1166; Calle 2 Norte No 124; d ment). Rates include continental breakfast.
nificance for locals. be aware that you can’t count on flagging with fan/air-con M$180/320; a) Great location and Colonial Hotel & Suites (%872-9090, 800-227-
down another motorist for help in the event saintly rates make the Edem a prime deal. 2639; www.suitescolonial.com; Av 5 Sur; ste low/high season
Playa Palancar of a breakdown or accident, and most rental It has a turtle-filled fountain and a friendly M$720/850; a) This place is down a passageway
About 17km south of town, Palancar is an- agencies’ insurance policies don’t cover any Siamese cat, and the no-nonsense senora off Avenida 5 Sur between Calles 1 Sur and Dr
other great beach. It has a beach club renting mishaps on unpaved roads. Word on the keeps the doors locked after 9pm. Rooms are Adolfo Rosado Salas. It features lovely studios
hydro bikes, kayaks, snorkel gear and sail- street is that Donald Trump has plans to clean and simple, with hammock hooks and and nice, spacious, one-bedroom ‘suites’ (beds
boats, plus a restaurant and a dive operation. build in the area, but the road was officially scaldingly hot showers. There’s a deposit for are separated from the rest of the room by
Near the beach, Arrecife Palancar (Palancar closed to cars and 4WDs as of press time. the threadbare towels (like anyone would run low partitions) with kitchenettes. All rooms
Reef) has some very good diving (it’s known About 17km up the road are the Maya ruins off with them). have cable TV, fridge and air-con, and lots of
as Palancar Gardens), as well as fine snor- known as El Castillo Real, and a few kilom- Hotel Cozumel Inn (%872-0314; fax 872-3156; Calle varnished-wood touches. Rates include coffee
keling (Palancar Shallows), though the shal- eters further is Aguada Grande. Both sites 4 Norte; d with fan/air-con M$320/370; as) A green and pastries.
low spots were marked by Wilma. See boxed are quite far gone, their significance lost building with 26 well-maintained rooms with Hotel Flamingo (%872-1264; www.hotelflamingo
text, p113, for more information. to time. In the vicinity of Punta Molas are good beds, and a small (sometimes suspect!) .com; Calle 6 Norte 81; r low season M$750-1500, high season
some fairly good beaches and a few more swimming pool, the Cozumel is a good deal, M$850-1600; a) The colorful Hotel Flamingo
Parque Punta Sur minor ruins. especially in high season. Mustiness airs is a nicely decorated place with spacious
The southern tip of the island has been out quickly. Find it between Avenida Rafael air-conditioned rooms (some with fridges)
turned into a rather overpriced ‘ecotouristic San Gervasio Melgar and Avenida 5 Norte. sporting direct-dial phones. Common areas
park’ (%872-0914; admission M$100; h9am-5pm). This Maya complex (admission M$60; h7am-4pm) is Hotel Pepita (%/fax 872-0098; Av 15 Sur; d low/ include a leafy courtyard where you can eat
Visitors board an open vehicle for the 3km Cozumel’s only preserved ruins, and a prime high season M$350/400; a ) The HP’s owner, breakfast, a 2nd-floor pool table, a bar and a
ride to visit picturesque Celarain lighthouse example of the local government’s efforts to Maria Teresa, takes pride in her work, and rooftop sun deck with good sea views. Wi-
and the small nautical museum at its base. milk dollars out of cruise-ship passengers. it shows. This is the best economic hotel in fi access makes it a good choice for laptop-
Another vehicle carries visitors to Laguna San Gervasio is thought to have been the the city. It’s friendly, with well-maintained toters. Make reservations via the internet to
Colombia, part of a three-lagoon system that site of the sanctuary of Ixchel, goddess of rooms grouped around a garden. All have save a few pesos.
is the habitat of crocodiles and many resi- fertility, and thus an important pilgrimage two double beds, refrigerators and air-con Hacienda San Miguel (%872-1986; www.hacienda
dent and migratory waterfowl. Crocs can be site at which Maya women – in particular (many catch a good breeze), and there’s free sanmiguel.com; Calle 10; r Sep-Dec 18 M$850-1300, Jan-Aug
seen (when they feel like it) from shore, via prospective mothers – worshipped. But its morning coffee. from M$1050; a) It’s a quiet place built and
QUINTANA ROO 116 R I V I E R A MAYA • • I s l a C o z u m e l Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • I s l a C o z u m e l 117

QUINTANA ROO
furnished to resemble an old hacienda, and course for around M$30, with a large selec- MIDRANGE Getting There & Away
niceties such as bathrobes and continental tion of dishes available; ask about the cheap Restaurant La Choza (%872-0958; cnr Dr Adolfo Rosado AIR
breakfast served in your room make this very comida corrida (fixed-price menu) not listed Salas & Av 10 Sur; mains M$80-170; h7am-10:30pm) An Some airlines fly direct from the USA;
good value. It offers divers’ packages, and on the menu. excellent and popular restaurant specializ- European flights are usually routed via the
long stays can bring rates down by amazing Taquería El Sitio (Calle 2 Norte; M$15-30; h7am-1pm) ing in authentic regional cuisine. All mains USA or Mexico City. Continental Airlines
amounts – check the web for deals. For scrump-diddily-umptious tacos and tor- come with soup. La Choza sometimes offers (% 800-900-5000, in USA & Canada 800-231-0856; www
tas, head over to El Sitio. It has fancy-upped a comida corrida (M$100) in the afternoon. .continental.com) has direct flights from Newark
TOP END the canopy-covered eating area with a mural and Houston. Delta Airlines (%800-123-4710, in
Several kilometers north and south of town of a cruise ship and jumping dolphins. It’s two TOP END USA & Canada 800-241-4141; www.delta.com) has a direct
are a few big luxury resort hotels. All rooms doors east of Hotel Edem. Pancho’s Backyard (%872-2141; cnr Av Rafael Melgar & flight from Atlanta. Mexicana de Aviación (%800-
in this category have air-con. Pastelería y Panadería Zermatt (cnr Av 5 Norte Calle 8 Norte; mains M$110-160; h10am-11pm Mon-Sat, 801-2010; www.mexicana.com) flies direct to Mexico
Ventanas al Mar (%105-2684; www.ventanasalmar & Calle 4 Norte; bread M$20; h7am-8:30pm Mon-Sat)
4-10:30pm Sun) Very atmospheric, set in a beau- City, Miami and Dallas. There are currently no
.biz; Costera Oriente Km 43.5; r low/high season M$940/1050; Bakes pastries, cakes, pizzas and whole-wheat tifully decorated inner courtyard. The food’s direct flights from Cancún to Cozumel; you’ll
a) Notable as it’s the only windward hotel breads and serves decent coffee. Unlike many not bad either, focusing on international need to fly through Mexico City. In the end,
on the island, Ventanas al Mar might be right Mexican bakeries, it does its cooking in the favorites and (drumroll please) seafood. you’re better off taking a bus-ferry combo.
for you if you are looking to get away from it early morning.
La Cocay (%872-5533; Calle 8 Norte No 208; mains
all (way away from it all). After dark you’ll oCoffeelia (%872-7402; Calle 5 Sur; breakfast M$110-230; h1-11pm Mon-Sat) Romantic, coconut- BOAT
need to go into town as the windward-side M$40-70, set meals M$57; h7:30am-11pm Mon-Sat, 8am-
scented candlelight and an intimate atmos- Passenger ferries run to Cozumel from
restaurants are closed. But the rooms offer 1pm Sun; v) A great way to start or finish the
phere make this snazzy restaurant a lot of Playa del Carmen, and vehicle ferries leave
great ocean views, and nice touches such as day: head over to Coffeelia for warm smiles fun. Sit at the bar sipping a good single malt the Calica facility (officially known as the
hand-painted tiles. Beware: the constant wind and delicious food – and great coffees, includ- or find a quiet table in the corner (or the Terminal Marítima Punta Venado) south of
is enough to drive you batty. ing espressos. Coffeelia (rhymes with Ophelia) back garden) to chat with someone special. Playa del Carmen. However, the vehicle ferry
Presidente Intercontinental Cozumel (%872-9500; is a focal point for Cozumel’s art community. The menu changes seasonally, but focuses does not take rentals. Unless you’re driving
www.intercontinental.com; Carretera a Chankanaab Km 6.5; The menu includes quiche, good salads and on light, Mediterranean-influenced fare. The your own car, use the Playa passenger ferry
r from M$2000; as) This is one of the island’s vegetarian dishes, and organic Chiapas coffee (M$110 one way) instead. There’s normally
welcoming owners, Gary and Kathy Klein,
oldest luxury hotels. It has a lovely beach and roasted fresh locally. Thursday is story night seem to know every guest by name. a passenger ferry every hour to and from
253 posh guestrooms, many with sea views, set in the pleasant garden area. Cozumel, depending on the season. The ferry
amid tropical gardens and swimming pools. Cocina Mexicana Los Ríos (%044 987-800-9043; cnr runs from 6am to midnight. Schedules are
Wild (large!) iguanas roam the grounds. Quinta Av & Calle 7; mains M$30-40; h7am-5pm Mon-Sat) Entertainment not set in stone, but currently there are six
Unlike the all-inclusives further south, the Ceviches, chicken and seafood: all simple and San Miguel de Cozumel’s nightlife is quiet departures from Cozumel for Calica between
Presidente is sufficiently close to town to allow good. Red plastic furniture and Bellafonte and subdued. Most restaurants are open 4:30am and midnight. Six ferries return from
you several dining options; truth be told, the tunes are part of this cheap, clean café not for drinks, but by 11pm things wind down. Calica between 2am and 9pm. Sundays have
city has grown south around the hotel. far from the post office. Comida corridas are Try the plaza first if you’re looking to min- four departures in each direction. Fares are
Hotel Playa Azul (%869-5160; www.playa-azul.com; M$30 (a smokin’ deal), and get you a main, gle with the wilder cruise-ship crowd. You M$500 for cars and M$800 for a van-sized ve-
Carretera a San Juan Km 4; d from M$2350, ste from M$2800; a soup, tortillas, soda or other nonalcoholic are best off asking around, as the clubs hicle (both fares include the driver’s passage).
as) This is in the sedate area north of town drinks and dessert. change frequently. You need to line up at least one hour before
on its own pretty little stretch of beach (it’s Costa Brava (%869-0093; Calle 7 Sur No 57; mains Estadio Javier Rojo Gomez (cnr Dr Adolfo Rosada departure (earlier is better, they say).
not deep but it’s a gem), and there’s good M$50-120; h6:30am-11pm) Painted in bright, pre- Salas & Av 30 Sur) Hosts rock concerts, lucha
snorkeling (the current is sometimes strong). school primary colors, this casual place with libre (professional wrestling) matches and BUS
All rooms have a sea view, a balcony or ter- its lovely Virgencita shrine has good prices on just about any other event you can think of. OK, it may sound silly, but you can actu-
race, and one king or two queen beds. The lobster dishes, chicken and shrimp. Most events happen on the weekends, but ally get long-distance bus tickets in advance
hotel has a bar, restaurant and gorgeous Jeannie’s Waffle House (%878-4647; cnr Av Rafael ask around. at the ADO terminal (%872-1706; cnr Av 10 & Calle 2
pool, and guests can play golf free at a nearby Melgar & Calle 11 Sur; breakfast dishes M$55-80, sandwiches La Cocay (%872-5533; Calle 8 Norte No 208; h1- Norte; h6:30am-9pm). Tickets are for services
course. There’s still a mandatory M$250 cart M$50-60; h7am-7pm) The views of the water are 11pm Mon-Sat) A great place for an after-dinner from the Playa del Carmen Terminal del Centro
fee though. great from the outdoor patio. Jeannie’s serves drink and has nice ambience, with candles (Map p103; cnr Juárez & Quinta Av) for all over Yucatán
waffles, of course, plus hash-brown potatoes, and a high ceiling. and Mexico.
Eating eggs, sandwiches and other tidbits. Great fro- La Abuelita (cnr Calle 1 Sur & Av 10 Sur) Grab a
BUDGET zen coffees beat the midday heat. drink with locals at the ‘little grandma.’ Getting Around
Head out of the ‘zone’ for the best food in Los Dorados de Villa (%872-0196; Calle 1 Sur; mains Turns out granny is quite an enterprising TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
Cozumel, and maybe even discover your own M$50-120; h8am-midnight) Near the edge of the lady: there’s an Abuelita Dos and Tres in The airport is about 2km northeast of town.
greasy spoon. Cheapest of all eating places plaza, it specializes in food from the Distrito other parts of town. You can take a colectivo from the airport into
are the little market loncherías (lunch stalls) Federal (Mexico City and surroundings), but Manati (cnr Calle 8 Norte & Av 10 Norte) Get there town for about M$70 (slightly more to the
next to the Mercado Municipal on Calle Dr has a wide variety of Mexican dishes including early for the comida corrida or stay late to hotels south of town), but you’ll have to take a
Adolfo Rosado Salas between Avenida 20 and seafood and cuts of meat. The spinach crêpes listen to live music (Thursday to Saturday) taxi (M$120 from town to M$200 from south-
Avenida 25 Sur. Most offer soup and a main are great as are the complimentary chips. in this cute bistro-bar combo. ern hotels) to return to the airport.
QUINTANA ROO 118 R I V I E R A MAYA • • X c a re t lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • R a n c h o Pu n t a Ve n a d o 119

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BICYCLE people on a bike is asking for trouble, though,
A full day’s bicycle rental typically costs M$80 as the machines’ suspension will be barely DETOUR: CRISTALINO CENOTE
to M$150 (depending on season), and can be a adequate for one. Many auto drivers speed On the west side of the highway south of Playa del Carmen is a series of cenotes (limestone
great way to get to the northern and southern and pass aggressively on Cozumel, and it has sinkholes/caverns filled with water) that you can visit and usually swim in for a price. Among
beaches on the west side of flat Cozumel. The its share of topes (speed bumps). Riders are these is Cristalino Cenote (adult/child M$40/20; h6am-5:30pm), just south of the Barceló Maya
completely separate bicycle/scooter lane on injured in solo crashes nearly every day, and Resort. It’s easily accessible, only about 70m from the entrance gate, which is just off the highway.
the Chankanaab Hwy sees a good deal of car deaths, usually involving other vehicles, are The well-tended cenote has mangrove on one side and a large open section you can dive into
traffic from confused tourists and impatient not uncommon. That said, rental opportuni- by climbing a ladder up to a ledge above it. The water extends about 20m into an overhung,
cab drivers, so be careful. ties abound, with prices ranging from M$180 cavelike portion.
to M$400 a day (depending on the agency, the Two more sinkholes, Cenote Azul and El Jardín de Edén, are just south of Cristalino along the
CAR season, volume of business and whether the highway. But Cristalino is the best of the three.
A car is the best way to get to the island’s stars are aligned properly), but you may be
further reaches, and you’ll get plenty of of- able to haggle down to less, with third-party
fers to rent one. All rental contracts should insurance and tax included. Collision insur- will surely enjoy the aquarium, turtles and sites at very reasonable prices (with your gear/
automatically include third-party insurance ance is not usually available for motorcycles: dolphins, but you may be better off taking gear rental M$290/390).
(daños a terceros), which runs about M$100 you break, you pay. them to a truly natural environment to enjoy Paamul Hotel (%999-925-9422; www.paamul.com
per day. Check that taxes are included in To rent, you must have a valid driver’s li- the wonders of, well, nature. .mx; d & cabanas low/high season M$600/1000; a) has
the price you’re quoted – they often are not. cense and leave a credit-card slip or put down Buses for Xcaret leave from the Zona eight beachfront rooms with good beds and
Collision insurance is usually about M$150 a deposit (usually M$1000). There is a helmet Hotelera in Cancún (Map p75). air-con, and 10 lovely, spacious cabanas built
extra with a M$5000 deductible for the cheap- law and it is enforced. on stilts. Each cabana has two beds, a ceiling
est vehicles. Rates start at around M$450 all- Rentadora Isis (left) rents scooters for RANCHO PUNTA VENADO fan, hot-water bathroom and a veranda. Gaps
inclusive, though you’ll pay more during late M$180 per day – you need to return them This delightful spot for horse riding (%998-887- in the wooden floors provide additional venti-
December and January. There are plenty of before dark. 1191; www.puntavenado.com; h8am-5pm) is about lation, and a serene atmosphere prevails.
agencies around the main plaza, but prices 5km south of Xcaret and 2km further east of Giant sea turtles come ashore here at night
drop about 50% from the dock to the fringes TAXI the highway. The ranch sits on some 8 sq km of in July and August to lay their eggs. If you
of the tourist zone. Some locals refer to the ‘taxi mafia’; as in some land, much of it virgin jungle, and has a cenote run across one during an evening stroll along
When renting, check with your hotel to see other towns on the Yucatán Peninsula, the and a 3km-long stretch of isolated beach. In the beach, keep your distance and don’t turn
if it has an agreement with any agencies, as taxi syndicate on Cozumel wields a good bit addition to guided horse tours (M$500 per your flashlight on or you might scare it away.
you can often get discounts. Note that some of power. Fares in and around town are M$30 person, maximum group size 20 people) you Do your part to contribute to the survival of
agencies will deduct tire damage (repair or per ride; luggage may cost extra. Carry exact can also make arrangements to snorkel, kayak these endangered turtles; let them lay their
replacement) from your deposit, even if tires change as drivers often ‘can’t’ provide it. or (if you must) ATV. In the course of a ride eggs in peace.
are old and worn. Be particularly careful about you’re likely to see monkeys, deer, coatis and If you come by bus, it’s a 500m walk from
this if you’re renting a 4WD for use on un- XCARET various other mammals, as well as crocodiles, the highway to the hotel and beach.
paved roads; straighten out the details before Once a precious spot open to all, Xcaret (%984- snakes and lots of birds, including the occa-
you sign. And always check your car’s brakes 871-5200; www.xcaret.com; adult/child 5-12yr M$676/338, sional toucan. The horses are well cared for XPU-HÁ
before driving off. with buffet & snorkel gear M$971/481; h8:30am-9pm; c), and the owners are very hospitable. Xpu-há (shpoo-ha) is a beach area about
One fairly no-nonsense place, with cars pronounced shkar-et, is 10km south of Playa 95km south of Cancún that extends for several
in good shape, is Rentadora Isis (%872-3367; Av del Carmen and has been turned into a heavily PAAMUL kilometers. It’s reached by numbered access
5 Norte), between Calles 2 and 4 Norte. VW Disneyfied ‘ecopark.’ Cruise-ship passengers Paamul, 87km south of Cancún, is a de facto roads (most of them private).
Beetles rent for around M$300 for 24 hours, often swear by the place, but the contrived, private beach on a sheltered bay. Like many Hotel Villas del Caribe (%984-128-4260; www.xpu
with little seasonal variation in prices. premium-priced ‘beauty’ here doesn’t com- other spots along the Caribbean coast, it has hahotel.com; cabanas M$650-750, r M$800-900), at the end
If you rent, observe the law on vehicle oc- pare with the wealth of authentic and often signs prohibiting entry to nonguests, and of X-4 (Xpu-há access road 4), is a laid-back
cupancy. Usually only five people are allowed free options available to those who don’t mind parking is limited. place sitting on a handsome stretch of beach
in a vehicle. If you carry more, the police will veering off the beaten path. The park also has a The attractions here are great diving and whose northern reaches are nearly empty.
fine you. You’ll need to return your vehicle mixed environmental record. Despite encour- a sandy, palm-fringed beach, which, though All rooms have a terrace or balcony and are
with the amount of gas it had when you signed aging good ecological practices for visitors lovely, has many small rocks, shells and spiked very clean and quiet, with fans and good
it out or pay a premium. This can be tricky as (like not wearing sunscreen while swimming sea urchins in the shallows offshore; take beds; most have hammocks as well. Guests
agencies usually don’t rent out cars with full in delicate lagoons) and financing a number of appropriate measures. A large recreational can participate in yoga and meditation classes,
tanks. There’s a gas station on Avenida Benito environmental research projects with visitor vehicle (RV) park here is greatly favored by and the hotel offers meal plans at its good
Juárez five blocks east of the main square. revenues, the resort reportedly imported its snowbirds; the ‘BC’ license plates you see are on-site restaurant.
sand beach, which can wreak environmental from British Columbia, not Baja California.
MOTORCYCLE mayhem on neighboring reefs. It also used ex- An attractive alabaster sand beach lies about AKUMAL
Solo touring of the island by motorcycle or plosives to clear natural debris when building 2km north. Famous for its beautiful beach and large,
scooter is OK provided you have experience the park, according to a report by Ron Mader Scuba-Mex (%/fax 984-875-1066; www.scubamex swimmable lagoon, Akumal (Place of the
with them and with driving in Mexico. Two on www.planeta.com. So should you go? Kids .com) offers diving trips to any of 30 superb Turtles) does indeed see some sea turtles
QUINTANA ROO 120 R I V I E R A MAYA • • X e l - H á Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • B a h í a s d e Pu n t a S o l i m á n 121

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come ashore to lay their eggs in the summer, modern place with two hotel-type rooms, to be one humongous system. They succeeded include Yucatán vireos, Yucatán woodpeck-
although fewer and fewer arrive each year some one- and two-bedroom condos and a in linking Nohoch with one of its outlets to the ers, rose-throated tanagers, black catbirds and
thanks to resort development. Akumal is one studio apartment – all under two roofs. Room sea (at Cenote Manatí in Tankah). While that orange orioles. If you’re very lucky you may
of the Yucatán Peninsula’s oldest resort areas prices vary greatly by category and season. The was going on, new kid on the block Ox Bel Ha spot one of the pumas seen in the area from
and consists primarily of pricey hotels, con- friendly owners Horacio and Kersten speak was found to be really big. time to time.
dominiums and residential developments (oc- five Western languages! The turnoff is 2.5km Hidden Worlds (% 984-877-8535; www.hidden Turning right (south) at the intersection
cupied mostly by Americans and Canadians) south of the turnoff for Playa Akumal. worlds.com.mx) is an American-run outfit of- rather than going straight takes you along the
on nearly 5km of wide beach bordering four Que Onda (%984-875-9101; www.queondaakumal fering guided snorkeling tours for M$400, edge of the bay on the other side of the point,
consecutive bays. With the exception of Villa .com; r low/high season M$700/900; is) It’s set amid and one-/two-tank dives for M$500/900. The also named Bahía Solimán (though some call it
Las Brisas, all sights and facilities are reached an expanse of greenery in a fairly residential snorkeling price includes a flashlight, wetsuit, Bahía de San Francisco). It has terrific coral
by taking the first turnoff, Playa Akumal, as area only 50m from Laguna Yal-Kú. The six equipment and transportation to the cenotes heads, tons of colorful fish, plenty of grouper
you come south on the highway. It’s about fan-cooled rooms have white-tiled floors and on a unique ‘jungle mobile.’ and reef sharks, and the occasional sea turtle
500m from the highway to the entrance. great beds; some have sofas, and the upstairs Another way to see part of the system is and even tuna.
ones have terraces. The hotel also offers a through the Dos Ojos (h8am-4:30pm) operation, A number of beach houses, some quite
Activities gorgeous pool, free internet access, bicycles a short distance north of Hidden Worlds. It’s luxurious, line the road. Most of them
Although increasing population is taking its and snorkeling gear, and half-price admis- run by the Maya community that owns the rent by the week, at well over M$10,000. A
toll on the reefs that parallel Akumal, div- sion to the lagoon. The restaurant serves land. The entrance fee is M$100 and snor- good website for house rentals in the area is
ing remains the area’s primary attraction. delicious pasta. keling gear is M$70 more. You can dive here as www.locogringo.com.
Hurricane Dean also reportedly did some Just outside the entrance to Playa Akumal well, if accompanied by a certified cave diver. Maya Jardin (%984-125-8806; www.mayajardin.com;
minor damage to the area’s reef, though we are two minimarkets that stock a good se- See p124 for details of more great cenotes d M$1250-1900; as) is on the southern end of
were unable to independently verify this when lection of inexpensive food. La Cueva del in this area. the bay, and offers large rooms, free kayaks
we passed through town. Ask about condi- Pescador restaurant, inside and just north of and snorkel gear to explore the bay.
tions before you commit to a trip. the entrance, serves three meals daily. Que BAHÍAS DE PUNTA SOLIMÁN The road continues south beyond another
Dive trips and deep-sea fishing excursions Onda has a nice restaurant and serves coffees These two beautiful, protected bays are sep- point past residential lots then continues into
are offered by Akumal Dive Shop (%984-875- from 11am to 4pm. Dinner is served from 5pm arated by a narrow point, 123km south of the Tankah area and loops back northwest to
9032; www.akumal.com). It also offers snorkeling to 10pm; the bar closes around midnight. Cancún and 11km north of Tulum. The area rejoin the highway.
trips to the reef and beaches unreachable offers good wildlife-watching, kayaking, snor- Most people get to Punta Solimán by
by car for M$250; fishing is M$1500 and XEL-HÁ keling and dining opportunities. car, or by taking a bus to Tulum and a taxi
diving M$700. Once a pristine natural lagoon brimming with A few hundred meters in after the signed from there.
At the northern end of Akumal, Laguna iridescent tropical fish and ringed on three turnoff from Hwy 307, you can bear left
Yal-Kú (adult/child M$75/40; h8am-5:30pm; c) is a sides by untouched mangroves, Xel-Há (%998- (north) to reach Oscar y Lalo’s (%984-804-6973; TANKAH
beautiful lagoon 2km from the Playa Akumal 883-3293; ww.xel-ha.com; adult/child 5-11yr M$382/264; mains M$60-100; h10am-8pm), a picturesque res- A few kilometers south of the Hwy 307 turnoff
entrance. The rocky lagoon, without a doubt h9am-6pm; c), pronounced shell-hah, is taurant that has the entire Bahía Solimán to for Punta Solimán is the turnoff for Tankah,
one of the region’s highlights, runs about now a private park with landscaped grounds, itself. The kitchen puts out heaping plates which also has a picturesque stretch of beach
500m from its beginning to the sea. It is home developed cenotes, caves, nature paths, under- of food, including fish fillets and barracuda and accommodations that have the sea for a
to large schools of brightly colored fish, and water walks with oxygen helmet (at additional steaks. Chicken fajitas are also on offer, and front yard and mangrove out the back.
the occasional visiting turtle and manta ray. cost), several restaurant-bars and more. Like couples can order elaborate specials such as Besides the attractions of beach and reef,
There is a tasteful sculpture garden along the Xcaret, its main competitor, it’s overpriced king crab stuffed with lobster and shrimp. Tankah offers Cenote Manatí, named for the
shore. Showers, parking and bathrooms are and you are better off with the less expensive Oscar rents kayaks for around M$100 per gentle ‘sea cows’ that used to frequent it. Used
included in the admission price, lockers are an or free alternatives that abound. hour; you can paddle out to the reef that shel- to. It’s actually a series of seven cenotes con-
extra M$20, and snorkel gear and life jackets ters the entire mouth of the bay and snorkel nected by a channel that winds through the
each cost M$50 to rent. Cabs from the Playa Underwater Cave Tours or bird-watch. The dense mangrove around mangrove a short distance before heading
Akumal entrance charge about M$60 to the la- About 1km south of Xel-Há is the turnoff for the 150m stretch of (somewhat spiky) white back underground briefly to reach the sea.
goon. In an effort to protect the lagoon’s frag- Cenote Dos Ojos, which provides access to the beach breeds quite a few mosquitoes and sand The snorkeling’s great, as is the birding, and
ile environment, sun block is prohibited. enormous Dos Ojos cave system. You can flies; you’ll want a tent with very good screens both are free.
You can also simply find a place to park and take guided snorkel and dive tours of some if you’re camping (sites per person M$30). To reach the places described here, turn
snorkel or swim on your own, as the shallow amazing underwater caverns, floating past Back on the main access road, heading east at the ‘Casa Cenote’ sign, go 700m, then
waters are pretty and fun. Close to the shore illuminated stalactites and stalagmites in an straight a short distance beyond the turnoff turn left and head north up the coast. You’ll
you will not have problems with currents, eerie wonderland. With an aggregate length of for Oscar’s brings you to an intersection. come to Tankah Inn first, then Casa Cenote,
though at times the surf can be rough. nearly 57km, it’s the third-largest underwater Continuing straight here leads to the end of which is less than 2km from the highway.
cave system in the world. Ox Bel Ha and Nohoch the point via a road that splits and rejoins Room rates vary seasonally and the ranges
Sleeping & Eating Nah Chich (about 97km and 61km total length, itself a few times. The little-traveled track given here don’t include the Christmas (and
Villa Las Brisas (%/fax 984-876-2110; www.aventuras respectively) are relatively nearby. Divers have makes a great nature walk: you can see both for some, Easter and Thanksgiving) peaks.
-akumal.com; r M$450-2300) On the beach in tried for years to find a passage linking Dos bays, and birding in the perennially dry man- High season is roughly mid-December to
Aventuras Akumal, this is an attractive, Ojos and Nohoch Nah Chich to prove them grove area is terrific. Birds of interest here late April.
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Tankah Inn (%984-100-0703, in USA 918-582-3743; the Cobá junction; turning right (west) takes
you to Cobá, and turning east leads about
TULUM 0
0 1 mile
2 km

www.tankah.com; d low/high season M$1100/1510) has

Airport
five comfortable rooms with tiled floors; the 3km to the north–south road servicing the A B C D
MEX
To Cancún
beds, bathrooms and cross-ventilation are all Zona Hotelera, the string of waterfront lodg- To Grand Cenote (3.7km);
Cobá (47km);
307
(127km)

good. A large upstairs kitchen, dining room ings extending for more than 10km south Valladolid (100km)
See Tulum Ruins
Map (p125)
and common area have splendid views. It of- from the ruins. This road eventually en- 1 Tul
um
Tulum Av 7
fers diving, snorkeling, yoga classes, Spanish ters the Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka’an, Tulum
Ruins
lessons and more. continuing some 50km past Boca Paila to 14
Casa Cenote (%998-874-5170; www.casacenote.com; Punta Allen.
13
ste with breakfast & dinner low/high season M$990/2250; The town center, sometimes referred to as 4

a) is just across the road from Cenote Tulum Pueblo, strides the highway (called 12
16

Av
See Enlargement
Manatí, leading many people to apply the Avenida Tulum through town) south of the

Co
bá
hotel’s name to the water feature. Its seven Cobá junction.

Sur
6
21
beachside casitas (small houses) are lovingly To Cenote Angelita 9
(16km); Felipe Carrillo MEX
done up with Maya touches, and each has a Information 2 Puerto (100km); 307
Chetumal (250km)
screened sliding glass door leading to its own Tulum has Telmex pay phones, numerous
little terrace with hammock. The restaurant currency-exchange booths (one with an
serves fresh seafood, with a Texas-style bar- ATM), and an HSBC bank (Av Tulum;h8am-5pm 0 200 m
Av
Satelite 2
becue on Sunday. Mon-Sat) offering good exchange rates and an 0 0.1 miles 23

ATM open 24 hours. 19

26
27
TULUM The post office (Av Tulum; h9am-3:30pm Mon-Fri),

Osir
is
%984 / pop 14,790 between Satelite and Centauro, is about five

Afa

Cen
blocks north of the bus terminal. um

Jup
Tulum’s spectacular coastline – with all its 3
Av
Tul 24 5

t
iter

aur
confectioner-sugar sands, jade-green water, There are numerous internet cafés (M$15 3 25

Orió
22

o
18
20 1 da
balmy breezes and bright sun – makes it one per hour) on Avenida Tulum. me

n
15 dro
An

Bet
of the top beaches in Mexico. Where else can Community Tours Sian Ka’an (%114-0750; www Av
ol 10
eS

a
Call s
you get all that and a dramatically situated .siankaantours.org; Av Tulum), between Orión and enu
8 eV
Call

Acu
Maya ruin? There’s also excellent diving, fun Centauro, runs tours to the magnificent Centro

ario
de Salud
cenotes, great snorkeling, and a variety of Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka’an stopping at
lodgings and restaurants to fit every budget. various ancient Maya sites.
There is one big drawback. The town INFORMATION Zazil-kin................................ 16 D2 11 CARIBBEAN
HSBC.......................................1 A3 Zulum....................................17 C4
center, where the really cheap eats and sleeps Dangers & Annoyances Post Office...............................2 C2
Tulum is generally safe and locals welcome SEA
are found, sits right on the highway, making 4 EATING
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Charlie's.................................18 A3
if feel more like a truck stop than a tropical tourists. However, if you nod off on the beach, Cenote Dive Center..................3 B3 El Mariachi.............................19 B3
17

paradise. This said, both Cobá to the west and your valuables (and even nonvaluables) may Community Tours Sian Gaudi Café............................20 A3
Ka'an...............................(see 27) Nachos 20º............................21 D2
the massive Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka’an disappear. Do not listen to touts who wait Paris de Noche...................... 22 B3
to the south make doable day trips. near the T-junction of the beach and offer SLEEPING Posada Margherita..............(see 11)
Cabañas El Mirador..................4 D1
Hurricane Dean brought some minor dam- inexpensive cabanas – there truly is no such Cabañas La Conchita...............5 D3 DRINKING
age to Tulum’s beachfront cabanas, but most thing as a free lunch. And bring your own lock El Paraíso.................................6 D2 2 Dollar.................................23 C2
Hotel El Crucero.......................7 D1 Azul.......................................24 B3
places should be up and running by the time if you plan on staying in the cheap, no-frills Kin-Ha Suites...........................8 B3
beachfront cabanas. La Vita è Bella..........................9 D2 SHOPPING
you read this. Piedra Escondida....................10 C3 Mexican Art Gallery...............(see 7)
5 Posada Margherita.................11 C4
Orientation Sights & Activities Rancho Tranquilo...................12
Teetotum...............................13
B2
C1
TRANSPORT
Bus Terminal..........................25 A3 To Boca Paila Camps (4km);
Punta Allen (51km)
Tulum lies some 135km south of Cancún DIVING & SNORKELING Villa Matisse...........................14 C1 Colectivo for Punta Allen........26 B3
Weary Traveler......................15 A3 Taxi Stand..............................27 B3
and is spread out over quite a large area. Cenote Dive Center (%871-2232; www.cenotedive.com;
Approaching from the north on Hwy 307 Av Tulum) is a recommended outfit specializing
the first thing you reach is Crucero Ruinas, in guided cavern dives and also offering cave
where the old access road (closed to vehicle dives, and cenote and cavern snorkeling trips. Snorkeling or swimming from the beach is Cenote Angelita
traffic about 100m in from the highway) The staff speak English, Spanish, German and possible and fun, but be extra careful of boat This spectacular cenote is most notable to
heads in a straight line about 800m to the Scandinavian languages. traffic (a dive flag is a good idea), as the strip divers for the unique, curious, even eerie layer
ruins’ ticket booth. About 400m further The dive shop at Zazil-kin (p127) is a between the beach and reef offshore is traveled of hydrogen sulfide that ‘fogs’ the water about
south on Hwy 307 (past the gas station) PADI, National Association of Cave Diving by dive boats and fishermen. If there’s a heavy halfway through the descent. Look up and see
is the new entrance for vehicles going to (NACD) and TDI operation offering low- wind onshore, strong currents can develop on the sunlight filtering down through ancient
the ruins; it leads to a parking lot. Another cost reef dives and renting snorkel gear for the lee side of the reef. Inexperienced swim- submerged tree branches that are wonder-
1.5km south on the highway brings you to M$100 per day. mers should stay close to shore. fully creepy – like outstretched witches’ arms.
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Exploring the Ruins has some interesting columns on its raised
THE YUCATÁN PENINSULA’S TOP FIVE CENOTES Visitors are required to follow a prescribed platform and, above the main doorway (on
One look and it’s easy to see why the Maya thought cenotes were sacred: fathomless cerulean route around the ruins. From the ticket booth, the south side), a beautiful stucco frieze of the
pools, dancing shafts of light, a darkened chamber. Even if you don’t buy the spiritual aspects, head along nearly half the length of Tulum’s Descending God. Also known as the Diving
they’re still awe-inspiring examples of nature’s beauty. Here’s our five faves: enormous wall, which measures approxi- God, this upside-down, part-human figure
mately 380m south to north and 170m along appears elsewhere at Tulum, as well as at sev-
A two-tank dive at Dos Ojos (p120)
its sides. Just before reaching the northwest eral other east-coast sites and Cobá. It may be
Diving or swimming at Gran Cenote (p129) corner, you enter the site through a breach in related to the Maya’s reverence for bees (and
Diving Taj Mahal (p78) the wall. The tower at the corner, once thought honey), perhaps a stylized representation of
to be a guard post, is now believed by some to a bee sipping nectar from a flower.
Sinking through eerie layers of ‘foggy’ water in Angelita (p123)
have been a type of shrine. South of Estructura 25 is El Palacio, notable
Plunging into the cool triple cenotes of Cuzamá after a jouncy ride by a horse-pulled train Heading east you’ll reach the Casa del Cenote, for its X-figure ornamentation. From here,
cart (p175) named for the small pool at its southern base, head east back toward the water and skirt the
where you can sometimes see the glitter of outside edge of the central temple complex
Keep in mind these are fragile environments. Avoid applying sun block or insect repellent right little silvery fish as they turn sideways in the (keeping it to your right). Along the back are
before entering the cenote. Be aware that the rocks are often slippery. Loud noises disturb bats murky water. A small tomb was found in the some good views of the sea. Heading inland
and other creatures. In rare cases, tourists have been seriously injured or killed by climbing on casa. Walk south toward the bluff holding again on the south side, you can enter the
the roots or stalactites. the Templo del Dios del Viento (Temple of the complex through a corbeled archway past
For more information about Yucatán’s fascinating cenotes, pick up a copy of Steve Gerrard’s Wind God) – roped off at the time of research – the restored Templo de la Estela (Temple of the
book The Cenotes of the Riviera Maya, a beautiful paperback with spectacular photos as well as which provides the best views of El Castillo Stela), also known as the Temple of the Initial
detailed information about each listing. juxtaposed with the sea below. Series. Stela 1, now in the British Museum,
Below the Wind God’s hangout is a lovely was found here. It was inscribed with the
little stretch of beach. It’s quite swimmable Maya date corresponding to AD 564 (the
The dive is deep and should only be done by port town during its heyday. The Maya sailed
when conditions are good, but take note of ‘initial series’ of Maya hieroglyphs in an in-
experienced divers. up and down this coast, maintaining trading
the lifeguards and the warning flags. After scription gives its date). At first this confused
routes all the way down into Belize. When
your dip, head west to Estructura 25, which archaeologists, who believed Tulum had been
TULUM RUINS Juan de Grijalva sailed past in 1518, he was
The ruins of Tulum (admission M$45; h8am-5pm) amazed by the sight of the walled city, its
preside over a rugged coastline, a strip of buildings painted a gleaming red, blue and TULUM RUINS 0
0 0.05 mile
100 m

brilliant beach and green-and-turquoise wa- yellow and a ceremonial fire flaming atop its Gate
ters that will make you want to tear up that seaside watchtower. Tower Gate
return ticket home. It’s true the extents and The ramparts that surround three sides of
structures are of a modest scale and the late Tulum (the fourth side being the sea) leave Entrance
post-Classic design, workmanship and or- little question as to its strategic function as Casa del
namentation are inferior to those of earlier, Cenote
a fortress. Several meters thick and 3m to
more grandiose projects – but wow, those 5m high, the walls protected the city dur-
Maya occupants must have felt pretty smug ing a period of considerable strife between
each sunrise. Iguanas are everywhere, and Maya city-states. Not all of Tulum was situ- Mini-
many act as if they own the place. temples
ated within the walls. The vast majority of
Tulum is a prime destination for large tour the city’s residents lived outside them; the Templo del
Dios del Viento
groups. To best enjoy the ruins without feel- civic-ceremonial buildings and palaces likely
ing like part of the herd, you should visit them housed Tulum’s ruling class.
either early in the morning or late in the after- The city was abandoned about 75 years
Estructura 25
Beach
noon. Parking costs M$40 for cars and M$80 after the Spanish conquest. It was one of the
for vans and pickups. A M$20 train takes you
last of the ancient cities to be abandoned;
to the ticket booth from the entrance, or just
most others had been given back to nature
hoof the 300m. Taxi cabs from town charge Templo del
long before the arrival of the Spanish. But Dios Descendente
M$35 and can drop you off at the old entrance To Parking (700m); El Palacio

road, about an 800m walk from the ticket Maya pilgrims continued to visit over the Toilets (700m); Estela 2
Hwy 307 (800m); Oratorio
booth. There’s a less-used foot entrance just years, and indigenous refugees from the War Tulum (3km) Estructura 20
Plataforma
de la Danza
north of Cabañas El Mirador. of the Castes took shelter here from time Tickets
El Castillo
to time. Templo de
las Pinturas
‘Tulum’ is Maya for ‘wall,’ though its Exit
History CARIBBEAN
Most archaeologists believe that Tulum was residents called it Zama (Dawn). The name No Public
Vehicle Access Archway Templo de SEA
la Estela
occupied during the late post-Classic period Tulum was apparently applied by explorers
Beach
(AD 1200–1521) and that it was an important during the early 20th century.
QUINTANA ROO 126 R I V I E R A MAYA • • Tu l u m Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels R I V I E R A MAYA • • Tu l u m 127

QUINTANA ROO
settled several hundred years later than this Weary Traveler is known for a full breakfast generators off at 9pm or 10pm; many have All overlook a narrow but nice beach with
date. It’s now thought that Stela 1 was brought that includes fruit, eggs, bread, coffee and no phone. beach umbrellas and chairs. It’s Italian-run
to Tulum from Tankah, a settlement 4km to condiments. There’s internet, a shuttle to The cheapest way to sleep in cabanas is (surprise!), so the restaurant serves delicious
the north dating from the Classic period. the beach, and a great central courtyard with to have your own hammock and mosquito handmade pastas and thin-crust pizza from
At the heart of the complex you can admire hammocks and picnic benches. It even has net; if you don’t, several of the inexpensive its wood-fired oven. Kiteboarding lessons are
Tulum’s tallest building, a watchtower ap- its own bar. Chilly, pull-style showers and places rent them for about M$30 a night. In also offered.
propriately named El Castillo (The Castle) by a lack of any shelving for toiletries are the the cheapest places you’ll have to supply your Cabañas La Conchita (fax 871 2092; www.differentworld
the Spaniards. Note the Descending God in only downsides. own towel and soap, and water, hot water, .com; d low/high season M$1200/1600) About 2km south
the middle of its façade, and the Toltec-style Hotel El Crucero (%871-2610; www.el-crucero.com; and even electricity may be erratic. Bedbugs, of the T across from some souvenir shops, the
‘Kukulcanes’ (plumed serpents) at the cor- Crucero Ruinas; dm M$85-100; d with fan/air-con M$350/450; sand fleas and mosquitoes are all a possibility. ‘Little Shell’ has eight units: three freestanding
ners, echoing those at Chichén Itzá. To the ai) You’ll feel welcome and well-taken- Bring repellent or consider burning a noxious and five in two-story structures. Ask for the
Castillo’s north is the small, lopsided Templo care-of at this friendly hotel. Dorm rooms mosquito coil near your door. Nights can be beachfront cabana with the vaulted palapa
del Dios Descendente, named for the relief figure have bathrooms and lockers, while air-con darned cold if there’s a breeze blowing. roof and ‘muy romantico’ mosquito netting.
above the door. rooms are done up in themes, such as the The following picks are ordered north to Rates include a big breakfast. When sending
Walking west toward the exit will take Mexican Mural, Jungle Room and the Lizard south. The last four listings are all south of a fax to Cabañas La Conchita make sure to
you to the two-story Templo de las Pinturas, Lounge. The hotel has a garden area plus where the road from town (and Cobá) meets mark it ‘Attn: La Conchita.’
constructed in several stages around AD a bar and restaurant, and internet access. the Tulum–Punta Allen road, forming a T- Piedra Escondida (% 100-3826; www.piedra
1400–1450. Its decoration was among the You can rent bicycles and store bags as well. intersection (referred to hereafter as ‘the T’). escondida.com; r low/high season M$1250/2350) Offers
most elaborate at Tulum and included re- It’s a 10-minute walk to the ruins, and 15 Cabañas El Mirador (%879-6019; elfishi@hotmail very good service in its large rooms. All have
lief masks and colored murals on an inner minutes to the beach. The hotel can arrange .com; cabana with hammock/bed M$130/250) The closest bathrooms and balconies or porches and are
wall. The murals have been partially restored low-impact bicycle tours to cenotes. Local place to the ruins, the Mirador rents tiny 4m- nicely decorated; some have excellent views.
but are nearly impossible to make out. This artist Enrique Diaz has a gallery here (see by-3m cabanas that feel a bit like jail cells – La Piedra also has a pleasing palapa-style
monument might have been the last built by Shopping, p128). they even stink a little bit. Go for a hammock restaurant-bar, and shares a small beach with
the Maya before the Spanish conquest and, Villa Matisse (%871-2636; [email protected]; bungalow as the rooms with beds aren’t worth neighboring hotels.
with its columns, carvings and two-story con- Av Satelite No 19; d low/high season M$400/500) Funky the extra money. There’s a decent restaurant Posada Margherita (%100-3780; www.posada
struction, it’s probably the most interesting patchwork quilts add a splash of color to the with great views sitting up and back from margherita.com; Km 4.5; d low/high season M$1300/2000)
structure at the site. glaringly white, clean rooms at the Matisse. the beach. Unlike many so-called ‘eco-tels’ everything
Little details such as seashell bouquets and Zazil-kin (%124-0082; cabanas with/without bathroom here is totally solar- or wind-powered – even
Sleeping fresh plants add an intimacy and closeness. M$670/400) About a 10-minute walk from the the kitchen, which makes amazing food using
The biggest choice, aside from budget, is There’s even hammocks hanging above the ruins, this is a popular place. It has a dive mainly organic ingredients. All rooms have
whether to stay in the town center or out beds in the fan-cooled rooms – a nice touch. center, a basketball court, a restaurant-bar- tiled floors, good bug screening, 24-hour lights
along the beach. Both have their advantages: Kin-Ha Suites (%/fax 871-2321; www.hotelkinha.com; disco and a nice stretch of beach. All struc- and a terrace or balcony with hammock. The
most of the daytime action is at the beach or Orión; d with fan/air-con M$600/750; a) While it’s a bit tures in this little Smurf village are very tidy beach here is wide and lovely. The excellent
the ruins, while at night people tend to hit the overpriced, this Italian-run joint has pleasant and nicely painted – Papa Smurf would be restaurant was being renovated at press time,
restaurants and bars in town. rooms surrounding a small courtyard garden, proud. The cabanas’ poles have been filled in but should now be up and running. The hotel
each with a hammock out front. It’s between with concrete, which makes them more secure also has something virtually unheard of on the
TULUM PUEBLO Calles Sol and Venus. (bring your own lock) but hinders ventilation. Yucatán Peninsula: wheelchair access.
You have to use a taxi (or hitchhike) to get to Teetotum (%745-8827; www.teetotumhotel.com; Av Be warned that the disco plays music at very Zulum (%801-0314; www.xulumhotels.com; Boca Paila
the beach. If you crave sand and surf, consider Cobá Sur; r low/high season M$750/1250) There’s just high volumes sometimes until 1am or 2am. Km 6.5; r low/high season M$1000/2500) This is an up-
staying along the Zona Hotelera. four rooms in this retro-hip boutique hotel El Paraíso (%137-9066; r with fan low/high season scale joint with well-appointed rooms. The
Rancho Tranquilo (%871-2784; www.ranchotranquilo 200m south of Avenida Tulum, with every- M$900/1300) Has 10 rooms in a one-story hotel- rooms facing the beach are worth the price,
.com.mx; Av Tulum s/n; dm M$120, r from M$250-480) A thing bordering on the supermaude, like the style block, each with two good beds, private while those without ocean views are just a bit
nice option for those looking for hostel-type bright orange and green vinyl headboards. hot-water bathroom, fine cross-ventilation and caro (expensive) for what they offer.
lodging, Rancho Tranquilo offers a mix of There are iPod docks, an upstairs lounge and 24-hour electricity. The restaurant is very pre-
cabanas, dorms and rooms in a low-key, dip pool, and the restaurant is excellent. It’s sentable, with decent prices, and the level beach, Eating
desert-landscaped garden. There’s a covered a bit overpriced for not being on the beach, with its palm trees, palapa parasols, swing- TULUM PUEBLO
common area and free breakfast. It can get a but a fun place to stay if you’ve got that chaired bar and soft white sand, is among the All of the following places are on Avenida
bit noisy, and for those without wheels it’s groovy-groupie syndrome. nicest you’ll find on the Riviera Maya. Tulum (Hwy 307). To escape the tourist traf-
quite far south on Avenida Tulum, and pretty La Vita è Bella (%871-3501; www.lavitaebella-tulum fic, consider putting the guidebook down for
dark late at night. ZONA HOTELERA .com; bungalows low/high season M$1000/2500, s & d without a second, leaving the main drag and finding
oWeary Traveler (%871-2390; www.weary Quality and price are so varied here that it’s best bathroom M$350) A few hundred meters south a nice, quiet, friendly taquería (taco place)
traveler.info; Av Tulum; dm M$120, r with/without bathroom to look before you decide. Accommodations of El Paraíso, it offers lovely bungalows with on a side street.
M$350/300; ai) Turn right out of the bus range from rustic cabanas with sand floors tiled floors, big comfy beds, well-screened Gaudi Café (cnr Av Tulum & Jupiter; mains M$20-60;
station and walk one block south to this fun to pricey bungalows with pricier restaurants. sliding doors, good bathrooms with colorful h7am-10pm) Just south of the bus station on
hostel. A great place to meet friends, the Some places have no electricity, or shut their basins and wide verandas with hammocks. the same side of the street, Gaudi Café offers
QUINTANA ROO 128 R I V I E R A MAYA • • Tu l u m lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com R I V I E R A MAYA • • G r a n C e n o t e 129

QUINTANA ROO
great fresh-squeezed juices and good coffee. Drinking & Entertainment
Spotlessness and relaxing music make it a Azul (Av Tulum; h6pm-late) Bathed in white with BUS SERVICES FROM TULUM
great way to start the morning. strips of blue neon, this lounge/disco heats up Destination Cost (M$) Duration Departures
o El Mariachi (Av Tulum; mains M$65-90; late. It’s next to París de Noche. Cancún 54-67 2hr numerous buses
h7am-3am) Staff ask you your name when 2 Dollar (Av Tulum) Despite the name, this is a Chetumal 107-140 3½-4hr every 2hr
you walk into this tidy little eatery and bar. locals’ watering hole. It’s generally a boys-only Chichén Itzá 101 3½hr 2 ADO buses at 9am & 2:30pm
It seems like a small thing, but it’s a ba- club, and there are a few seats outside away Cobá 30 45min about 5 ADO or Mayab buses 7am-6pm
rometer for the excellent service and tasty from the blaring music. Felipe Carrillo Puerto 60 1½hr numerous buses, consider taking a colectivo
traditional food you are about to enjoy. Mahahual 122 4hr ADO bus at 11:30am
Popular with locals and tourists alike, this Shopping Mérida 172 4hr (avoid 2nd-class buses numerous services daily
open-air spot delivers yummy slow-cooked Avenida Tulum is lined with shops offering which take much longer)
pork enchiladas, fresh grilled fish and about many items (hammocks, blankets, handi- Playa del Carmen 34 1hr numerous buses
every cut of meat you could imagine. Find crafts) that you’ll see everywhere. Prices drop Valladolid 60 2hr 5 ADO & 5 Mayab buses 1:25am-6pm
it between Orion and Centauro. drastically the further you go from the bus
París de Noche (% 871-2532; Av Tulum; mains station – up to 50%.
M$70-140; h11am-11pm Mon-Fri, 7am-11pm Sat & Sun) Mexican Art Gallery (% 745-8979; inf_art@hot GRAN CENOTE architecture of Tikal, which is several hun-
Serves some big portions, so bring an ap- mail.com; h 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Located at the A little over 3km from Tulum on the road to dred kilometers away, rather than the much
petite or a friend. The French owner won Hotel El Crucero, this gallery features the Cobá is Gran (Grand) Cenote, a worthwhile nearer sites of Chichén Itzá and the northern
a Time Out award at the restaurant he ran brightly colored work of local artist Enrique stop on your way between Tulum and the Yucatán Peninsula.
in London. He serves a mix of French and Diaz, whose motto is to ‘paint the colors Cobá ruins, especially if it’s a hot day. You Some archaeologists theorize that an alli-
Mexican dishes (as well as steaks and sea- of Tulum.’ His art is vivid and fun, a vari- can snorkel (M$80) among small fish and see ance with Tikal was made through marriage
food) that include escargots, ceviche, and ety of portraits and landscapes that seem underwater formations in the caverns here if to facilitate trade between the Guatemalan
a delicious green salad with chèvre that’s a vaguely Picasso-esque. you bring your own gear. A cab from down- and Yucatecan Maya. Stelae appear to depict
full meal in itself. There’s often two-for-one town Tulum costs around M$50 one way, or female rulers from Tikal holding ceremonial
drink specials and a tasty comida corrida. Getting There & Away it’s an easy bike ride. bars and flaunting their power by standing
Charlie’s (%871-2573; Av Tulum; mains M$85-140; The bus terminal (just a waiting room, really) on captives. These Tikal royal females, when
is toward the southern end of town. When COBÁ married to Cobá’s royalty, may have brought
h7:30am-11pm Tue-Sun) An old standby with at-
tractive conch-shell décor and a wall made leaving Tulum, you can also wait at Crucero Though not as large as some of the more fa- architects and artisans with them.
of old glass bottles, it’s near the bus station Ruinas for intercity buses and the colectivos mous ruins, Cobá is ‘cool’ because you feel Archaeologists are also baffled by the ex-
and offers your choice of indoor or court- to Playa del Carmen. The table (opposite) like you’re in a Raiders of the Lost Ark flick. tensive network of sacbeob in this region,
yard dining. The food is largely Mexican, shows some travel times and prices for buses It’s set deep in the jungle and many of the with Cobá as the hub. The longest runs
with a selection of salads thrown in. leaving Tulum. ruins have yet to be excavated. Walk along nearly 100km from the base of Cobá’s great
If you’re headed for Valladolid, be sure ancient sacbé pathways (stone-paved avenues; Nohoch Mul pyramid to the Maya settlement
ZONA HOTELERA your bus is traveling the short route through sacbeob is the plural in Maya), climb up vine- of Yaxuna. In all, some 40 sacbeob passed
Most of the hotel restaurants also welcome Chemax, not via Cancún. Colectivos leave covered mounds, and ascend to the top of through Cobá, parts of the huge astronomi-
nonguests. from Avenida Tulum for Playa del Carmen Nohoch Mul for a spectacular view of the cal ‘time machine’ that was evident in every
Posada Margherita (%100-3780; mains M$80-250) (M$25, 45 minutes), Punta Allen (at 2pm), surrounding jungle. Maya city.
This hotel’s restaurant is candlelit at night, and colectivos for Felipe Carrillo Puerto From an over-the-top sustainable tourism The first excavation was lead by the
making it a beautiful, romantic place to dine. (M$45, one hour) leave from just south of perspective, it’s great to stay the night in small Austrian archaeologist Teobert Maler in 1891.
The fantastic food, including pasta, is made the hostel. communities such as Cobá. The money you There was little subsequent investigation
fresh daily and the wines are excellent. It’s spend goes straight to the local economy, en- until 1926, when the Carnegie Institute fi-
on the Tulum–Punta Allen road. Getting Around couraging continued rural stewardship and nanced the first of two expeditions led by Sir
Nachos 20° (%100-5067; Km 2.5; lunch mains M$80, Except for the shuttles operated from the minimizing the mass migration to tourist J Eric S Thompson and Harry Pollock. After
dinner mains M$80-160; h8am-9pm) Another ap- youth hostels, there are no colectivos out to cities such as Cancún. Hiring local guides, their 1930 expedition, not much happened
pealing option. North of the T-junction on the beach. You either hitch, ride a taxi, rent buying local crafts and simply stopping here until 1973, when the Mexican government
the Tulum–Punta Allen road, it has tables a bike or walk. And it’s a long walk. for lunch also help. began to finance excavation. Archaeologists
on a rocky bluff above the water, offering Bicycles can be a good way to get around now estimate that Cobá contains some
some fabulous views. and usually cost M$150 a day. History 6500 structures, of which just a few have
Taxi fares are fixed and pretty cheap; Cobá was settled earlier than Chichén Itzá been excavated and restored, though work
SELF-CATERING from either of the two taxi stands in Tulum or Tulum, and construction reached its peak is ongoing.
Two small supermarkets provide an alterna- Pueblo (one south of the bus terminal, between AD 800 and 1100. Archaeologists
tive to eating out: the Stop ’n Go, 100m east which has fares posted; the other four blocks believe that this city once covered 50 sq km Orientation & Information
of Hwy 307 on the road to Cobá, and the north on the opposite side of the street) to and held 40,000 Maya. The tiny, tranquil village of Cobá, 2.5km
Super Mar Caribe, about four blocks north the ruins is M$35. Fares to most cabanas Cobá’s architecture is a mystery; its tow- west of the Tulum–Chemax road, has a
of the bus terminal. mentioned here are M$35 to M$50. ering pyramids and stelae resemble the small, cheap hotel; several small, simple and
QUINTANA ROO 130 R I V I E R A MAYA • • C o b á lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels R I V I E R A MAYA • • C o b á 131

QUINTANA ROO
per day) are another popular option for those beneath the feet of a ruler at the base. You’ll Climbing the old steps can be scary for some;
COBÁ 0
0
500 m
0.3 miles
who are tired or have limited mobility. need to use your imagination, as this and see boxed text, p172, for tips.
A To Chemax
(29km)
B You may want to buy a book on Cobá most of the other stelae here are quite worn. Two diving gods are carved over the door-
To Punta
Lookout Laguna (18km); before coming. On-site signage and maps Continue along the path past another badly way of the temple at the top (built in the post-
Nuevo Xcan
(51km) are minimal and cryptic. Guides near the weathered stela and a small temple to rejoin Classic period, AD 1100–1450), similar to the
1
8 Pyramid entrance size you up and ask whatever they the Nohoch Mul path and turn right (or, if sculptures at Tulum. The view from up top is
Nohoch
Mul think you’re worth, tours generally run about you rented a bike, turn around or go left to over many square kilometers of flat scrubby
6 3 4 Xiabé
Templo
To Tulum
(42km)
M$200 to M$400. Guides drop their prices retrieve it). forest, with peeks of lake, and Xaibé as the sole
5 10
Grupo inside the gate, so pay admission first and visible Maya structure. Still, it’s inspiring.
7 de las Ballcourt
Laguna
Cobá 2 1 Pinturas avoid bargaining out in the parking lot. The GRUPO NOHOCH MUL After descending, walk past Templo 10 and
Grupo
Conjunto de
las Pinturas
Nohoch Mul pyramid is the only structure the Continuing northeast you will reach another turn right to make a loop back to the ruined-
Cobá public is allowed to climb. ball court on the right side of the path. Look temple junction. In all it’s a 1.4km, half-hour
Laguna
Macanxoc
at the ground in the center of the court to walk back to the site entrance.
Laguna
Grupo Sights spot a carved stone skull (the winner or the
Macanxoc
2 Xkanha
GRUPO COBÁ loser of the ball game?) and the carved relief Sleeping & Eating
Laguna
Zacalpuc Walk just under 100m along the main path of a jaguar. More weathered stelae lie at the There’s no organized campsite, but you can
from the entrance and turn right to get to north end. After the ball court, the track bends try finding a place along the shore of the lake,
Laguna SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
La Iglesia (The Church), the most prominent between piles of stones – a ruined temple – which is inhabited by crocodiles (local chil-
Sina A Kal Archaeological Site Entrance..
Entrance..11 A1
Crocodile Viewing Pier.........2 A1 structure in the Cobá Group. It’s an enormous and you reach a junction of sorts. Turn right dren can show you a safe swimming spot).
pyramid; if you were allowed to climb it, you (east) and head to the structure called Xaibé. Hotel y Restaurant El Bocadito (%984-264-7070;
SLEEPING
Hotel y Restaurant El could see the surrounding lakes (which look This is a tidy, semicircular stepped building, s/d M$100-150) Just north of the Laguna Cobá, at
Bocadito...........................3 A1 almost fully restored. Its name means ‘the the entrance to town, this place has very basic,
Hotelia Sac-Bé......................4 A1 lovely from above on a clear day) and the
Villas Arqueológicas Cobá....5 A1 Nohoch Mul pyramid. Crossroads,’ as it marks the juncture of four fan-cooled rooms all with private bathrooms.
3
EATING Take the time to explore Grupo Cobá; it separate sacbeob. Chickens cluck and dogs wander around. The
Restaurant Las Pirámides......6 A1 has a couple of corbeled-vault passages you Going north from here takes you past restaurant (mains around M$60) is well run
Restaurants..........................7 A1
can walk through. Near its northern edge, on Templo 10 and Stela 20. The exquisitely and serves basic food, including an affordable
TRANSPORT
the way back to the main path and the bicycle carved stela – worn, but not nearly so badly set menu. It will store luggage while you visit
Bus Stop...............................8 A1
concession, is a very well-restored juego de as the others – bears the date AD 730 and a the ruins. El Bocadito also serves as Cobá’s
pelota (ball court). familiar theme: a ruler standing imperiously bus terminal.
low-cost restaurants; and the upscale Villas over two captives. In front of it is a modern Hotelita Sac-bé (%984-206-7140; s/d with fan M$250,
Arqueológicas Cobá (Club Med) hotel. GRUPO MACANXOC line drawing depicting the original details. with air-con M$400; a) Clean and friendly, the
Be careful not to picnic beside the lake, as About 500m beyond the juego de pelota, the By this time you will have noticed Nohoch Sac-bé is on the opposite side of the street
it has large crocodiles. If you want to snap path forks. Going straight gets you to the Mul (Big Mound) just to the north. Also known from El Bocadito and about 100m closer to the
a picture of a croc, try looking for one near Grupo Macanxoc, a group of stelae that bore as the Great Pyramid, which sounds a lot bet- main road heading out of town. The chickens
Villas Arqueológicas Cobá in early afternoon reliefs of royal women who are thought to ter than Big Mound, Nohoch Mul reaches a are a bit noisy in the morning, but it has nice
from the pier. have come from Tikal. They are badly eroded, height of 42m, making it the second-tallest hot showers and comfortable, springy beds.
The archaeological site entrance (admission M$45; and it’s a 1km walk, but the flora along the Maya structure on the Yucatán Peninsula. Villas Arqueológicas Cobá (%984-206-7000; cob
h8am-5pm; c), at the end of the road on the way is interesting. Calakmul’s Estructura II, at 45m, is the tallest. [email protected]; s/d/tr M$860/1000/1450; as)
southeast corner of Laguna Cobá, has a park-
ing lot that charges M$15 per car. Be prepared GRUPO DE LAS PINTURAS
to walk several kilometers on paths, depend- You can reach the Grupo de las Pinturas BODY ARTISTS: CRANIAL DEFORMATION, PIERCING & TATTOOS
ing on how much you want to see. If you ar- (Paintings Group) by heading 200m toward Take a second to imagine what a Maya at the height of the Classic period must have looked
rive after 11am you’ll feel a bit like a sheep in the Grupo Macanxoc and turning left. If like. Their heads were sloped back, their ears, noses, cheeks and sometimes even genitals were
a flock. Bring insect repellent and water; the you’re on a bike, you’ll have to park it here pierced. Their eyes were crossed and their bodies were tattooed. These were, indeed, some of
shop next to the ticket booth sells both at rea- and return to it (this is the case at a few other the first body artists.
sonable prices. There is a drink stand within spots as well). The temple here bears traces of Cranial deformation was one of the Maya’s most odd forms of body art, and was most often
the site near the Nohoch Mul pyramid. glyphs and frescoes above its door and rem- performed to indicate social status. Mothers would bind the head of their infant (male or female)
A short distance inside, at the Grupo Cobá, nants of richly colored plaster inside. tightly to a board while the skull was still soft. By positioning the board either on top of or behind
is a concession renting bicycles at M$30 per You approach the temple from the south- the head, the mother could shape the skull in many ways – either long and pointy (known as
day. These can only be ridden within the site, east. Leave by the trail at the northwest (op- ‘elongated’ – think Cone Heads) or long and narrow, extending back rather than up (known as
and are useful if you really want to get around posite the temple steps) to see two stelae. ‘oblique’ – think Alien). As the infant grew older and the bones calcified, the headboard was no
the further reaches; also they’re a great way The first of these is 20m along, beneath a longer needed: the skull would retain its modified shape for life. Apparently, compressing the
to catch a breeze and cool off. If the site is palapa. Here, a regal figure stands over two skull did not affect the intelligence or capabilities of the child. Both practices became less and
crowded, however, it’s probably best to walk. others, one of them kneeling with his hands less common after the Spanish arrived.
Pedi-trikes (two people and driver cost M$95 bound behind him. Sacrificial captives lie
QUINTANA ROO 132 S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • Tu l u m t o Pu n t a A l l e n 133

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A Club Med hotel next to the lake, it was ceremony (M$125) at a ‘traditional’ altar
built to resemble an old hacienda, with red- that’s been erected fortuitously right on the DIGGING OUT AFTER DEAN – THE BIG PICTURE
tiled floors and rooms grouped around a large trail to the lake. While these are fun, the best Hurricane Dean, the ninth-largest Atlantic hurricane on record, slashed his way into the region on
inner courtyard with an expansive swimming activity is renting a canoe (M$60 per hour) August 21, 2007. The Category 5 plowed straight through the small coastal town of Mahahual,
pool. The restaurant is surprisingly afford- to explore the lake, an eerily beautiful sight destroying nearly 80% of the town’s buildings as well as the cruise-ship dock, the town’s main
able and serves good Yucatecan cuisine, but when shrouded in morning mist. economic driver.
the rooms are too small for the price. It has a Intrepid travelers can call ahead and Chetumal, Punta Allen, and the areas around Laguna Bacalar all sustained damage at the
small Maya ruin – yes it’s for real – out back reserve a palapa for the night. Or bring hands of Dean, as did the remote Maya ruins of Dzibanché and Kohunlich. Thankfully, most of
by the tennis courts. your own tent and camp out near the lake. the tourist infrastructure in these areas was undamaged, though many of the trees around the
Restaurant Las Pirámides (mains M$60) A few Camping or a palapa costs around M$60 per remote ruins were felled by the strong winds.
doors down from Villas Arqueológicas Cobá, night. It’s best to bring your own hammock In all the Mexican government reported M$8 billion in damage and 14 hurricane-related deaths.
it has good lake views and friendly service. and a mosquito net. Like any rural commu- But the region is recovering and the government has pledged M$30 million toward reconstruc-
Several small restaurants by the site’s park- nity, Punta Laguna offers a unique oppor- tion. Unlike Wilma, Dean did not destroy the major asset of these coastal areas: the sugary sand
ing lot serve inexpensive meals. tunity to learn about the local indigenous beaches. And as of press time, all the towns were back welcoming tourists.
culture, and community leaders say travelers Many of the road signs in the area were twisted and torn by Dean’s winds, so you’ll need to
Getting There & Away should consider studying Maya with local exercise caution on the roads. And there are fears that the reefs, especially the once magnificent
Most buses serving Cobá swing down almost women (the price varies). There’s a restau- Banco Chinchorro, may have been damaged during the storm. As of press time reports were
to the lake to drop off passengers before rant near the cenote, but it rarely opens, so splotchy, but some Mexican papers cited minor damage to the reefs near Akumal and Chinchorro.
turning around. Buses run six to eight times consider bringing your own food. Refer to specific regional headings to learn more about life after Dean.
daily between Tulum and Cobá (M$30); six Public transportation is so sparse as to Word on the street is that the Mexican tourism authorities are going to use this as a chance
of these also serve Playa del Carmen (M$68, be nonexistent. In a car, you can reach to begin some major development projects in the region. Best to get there now before the
one to 1¾ hours). Buses also run to Valladolid Punta Laguna by turning southwest off cruise ships return!
(M$26, 45 minutes) and Chichén Itzá (M$52, Hwy 180 at Nuevo Xcan and driving 26km,
1½ hours). or by heading 18km northeast from the
Day-trippers from Tulum can reach Cobá Cobá junction. Dzibanché and Kohunlich seem all the more into a meter of sand. It is doable even in a
by forming a group to split the cost of a taxi, mysterious without the tour vans. Go in the non-4WD vehicle, but bring along a shovel
which costs about M$500 round-trip, includ- early morning and you’ll likely share the and boards just in case, and plan on return-
ing two hours at the site.
The road from Cobá to Chemax is arrow-
SOUTHERN spot with vultures, leaf-cutter ants, mist, and
possibly an agouti or two.
ing that rental with a lot more play in the
steering wheel.
straight and in good shape. If you’re driving
to Valladolid or Chichén Itzá this is the way
QUINTANA ROO This part of Quintana Roo will mostly ap-
peal to people who want to see a section of
There’s an entrance gate to the reserve
about 10km south of Tulum. Entrance is
to go. Whether you’re going by rental car or star- Caribbean Mexico before it gets developed. M$21. At the gate, there’s a short nature trail
ing out a bus window, you’ll notice the But you’d best hurry, as big plans are in the taking you to a rather nondescript cenote
PUNTA LAGUNA landscape is different the further south you works to rebuild this region after Dean, cre- (Ben Ha). The trail’s short, so go ahead and
Punta Laguna is a fair-sized lake with a small go. The trees get taller and the birds more ating a second Riviera Maya of sorts, only take a second to have a gander.
Maya community nearby, 20km northeast of colorful, until you reach the southern border they’re calling it the Costa Maya. Those devel- This is where DIY adventure really takes
Cobá on the road to Nuevo Xcan. The forest with Belize where you’ll be in real, honest- oper types sure are creative, aren’t they? off. Bring a couple hammocks, lots of water,
around the lake supports populations of spi- to-goodness jungle (well, if you’re not in a a sixer of cerveza, and mosquito nets for re-
der and howler monkeys, as well as a variety of sugarcane field). Hurricane Dean did some TULUM TO PUNTA ALLEN mote coastal camping. Around 30km from
birds, and contains small, unexcavated ruins serious damage to the area (see opposite), Punta Allen sits at the end of a narrow spit of the entrance gate is an excellent camping spot
and a cenote. A surprising jaguar population but things are recovering quickly. land that stretches south nearly 40km from its with the lagoon on one side and glorious blue
was recently discovered, though chances of Quintana Roo’s capital Chetumal is the start below Tulum. There are some charming ocean on the other.
seeing one are very slim. Toucans sometimes only ‘Mexican’ city in Quintana Roo, and beaches along the way, with plenty of privacy, At the time of research, one colectivo made
flit across the road. it feels different: somehow more visceral, and most of the spit is within the protected, the three-hour trip daily, leaving Tulum
A tourist cooperative (%986-861-4094) charges more real. It has a fairly good Maya history wildlife-rich Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka’an. center at 2pm and arriving in Punta Allen
M$40 for entrance to the lake area, and about museum, a number of nice restaurants and Hurricane Dean whipped the region pretty about 5pm. Another leaves Punta Allen for
M$200 per hour for guided visit, which is a cool local music scene. good, and the beaches were littered with Tulum at 3pm. You may also be able to come
your best chance of spotting simians. Arrive Merely sideswiped by Dean, the ‘muy debris when we passed through. on a launch via the mainland, though that is
at dusk or dawn to further increase your tranquilo’ (very tranquil) coastal towns of The road can be a real muffler-buster more expensive and less frequent.
chances. The local community is increasing Punta Allen and Xcalak offer access to great between gradings, especially when holes are
its tourist offerings in an effort to keep the birding, diving and snorkeling along this filled with water from recent rains, making it Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka’an
town’s youth from fleeing to work in Señor relatively pristine stretch of coast. Beautiful impossible to gauge their depth. The south- More than 5000 sq km of tropical jungle,
Froglandia. The new activities include a Laguna Bacalar provides fine escapes for ern half, south of the bridge at Boca Paila, marsh, mangroves and islands on Quintana
zipline tour (M$125), a repel into a nearly people looking to get away from it all. And is the worst stretch – some spots require ex- Roo’s coast have been set aside by the Mexican
pitch-black cenote (M$200) and a shamanic in the interior, the seldom-visited ruins of perienced off-road handling or you’ll sink government as a large biosphere reserve. In
QUINTANA ROO 134 S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • Fe l i p e C a r r i l l o Pu e r t o Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • Fe l i p e C a r r i l l o Pu e r t o 135

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1987 the UN classified it as a World Heritage listed for Sian Ka’an (left), as well as cooper- Castes. Besides its historical and cultural sig- done by a ventriloquist who used sound
site – an irreplaceable natural treasure. atives in town (inquire at Galletanes or Vigía nificance, Carrillo Puerto has few attractions chambers, but the people looked upon it as
Sian Ka’an (Where the Sky Begins) is home Grande eateries), do fishing trips for about other than the only gas station, bank and the authentic voice of their aspirations.
to howler monkeys, anteaters, foxes, ocelots, M$2000, including lunch. There’s also a fish- hotels for some distance around. There’s a The oracular guided the Maya in battle
pumas, crocodiles, eagles, raccoons, tapirs, ing outfit just north of town called Pesca Maya main square with a clocktower, church and for more than eight years, until their great
peccaries, giant land crabs, jaguars and hun- (%998-883-4204; www.pescamaya.com; h5am-10pm), cultural center. Come nighttime, the square victory conquering the fortress at Bacalar.
dreds of bird species, including chocolateras which does daily saltwater fly-fishing runs fills up as locals take spins around the park For the latter part of the 19th century, the
(roseate spoonbills) and some flamingos. and has a restaurant for guests only. in an age-old tradition known as paseando Maya in and around Chan Santa Cruz were
There are no hiking trails through the reserve; An hour’s tour of the lagoon, including (taking a walk). Watching this simple anach- virtually independent of governments in
it’s best explored with a professional guide. turtles, bird-watching and a quick snorkel, ronism may be enough to keep you occupied Mexico City and Mérida.
Community Tours Sian Ka’an (Map p123; %984- costs M$400 to M$500. You’ll be offered trips for hours – you can even take a couple of A military campaign by the Mexican gov-
114-0750; www.siankaantours.org; Av Tulum, Tulum) runs by one of the three co-ops. Encourage your trips around the plaza yourself. ernment retook the city and the surround-
tours out of Tulum that include pickup in the captain not to get so close to birdlife that he ing area at the beginning of the 20th century
Zona Hotelera. Tours include a guided walk of scares it away. Though very rare, manatee History (see boxed text, p37), and the talking cross’s
the interpretive trail at the Muyil archaeologi- spottings are possible. In 1849, when the War of the Castes turned shrine was desecrated. Many of the Maya
cal site south of Tulum, and a boat trip or float There are no ATMs or internet cafés in against them, the Maya of the northern fled to small villages in the jungle and kept
trip through Lagunas Muyil, Chunyaxché and town. Electricity generally works between Yucatán Peninsula made their way to this up the fight into the 1930s; some resisted
Boca Paila via an ancient Maya trade route 11am and 2pm, and 4pm and midnight. town seeking refuge. Regrouping, they were even into the 1950s.
along a natural channel. On the way you can ready to sally forth again in 1850 when a Carrillo Puerto today remains a center of
see abundant birdlife and visit little-known SLEEPING & EATING ‘miracle’ occurred. A wooden cross erected Maya pride. The talking cross, hidden away
Maya temples. It also offers snorkeling, bird- Posada Sirena (% 984-877-8521; www.casasirena at a cenote on the western edge of the town in the jungle for many years following the
ing and fishing trips further into the reserve. .com; d M$400-600) Offers fully furnished cabanas began to ‘talk,’ telling the Maya they were Mexican takeover, has been returned to its
Trips cost between M$950 and M$1100. There with kitchens and hot-water showers. The the chosen people, exhorting them to con- shrine, and Maya from around the region
are discounts for children under 12. rooms are simple and very big; some sport tinue the struggle against the Spanish and still come to visit it, especially on May 3, the
If you can get to Punta Allen, three lo- sitting areas and hammocks. There’s no maid promising victory. The talking was actually day of the Holy Cross.
cals with training in English, natural his- service, and the Posada can arrange tours.
tory, interpretation and birding conduct Cuzán (%983-834-0353; www.flyfishmx.com; r M$500-
bird-watching, snorkeling and nature tours, 900) Just south of the town’s center along the FELIPE CARRILLO PUERTO 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
mostly by boat, for about M$1000 for five to main road, Cuzán has ocean-front cabanas –
A B C D
six people: Baltazar Madera (%984-871-2001, in one set on the fusil lodge of an old boat. There To Valladolid To Tulum (95km);
Tulum 984-879-8234); Marcos Nery (%984-871-2424), are cheaper cabins away from the beach. It To Ticul (200km);
Mérida (310km)
(147km) Cancún (230km)

reachable through the local phone exchange; also offers fishing and snorkeling trips. MEX
Call
e 73
MEX
and Chary Salazar (inquire in town at her Vigía Grande and Galletanes are among 1 184 295

eponymous restaurant). The latter two are several of the town’s dining choices, both 10
Calle
experts on endemic and migratory bird spe- close to the water and both owned by co-ops. 5
71

cies, and Chary also does walking tours when They serve Mexican dishes and seafood, nat-

60
she’s available.

Calle
urally including lobster. Neither has a phone

62
Calle
and opening hours vary based on whether Calle
69
Punta Allen any customers are there.

66
MEX
3 307

Calle

68
64
The town of Javier Rojo Gómez is more com- 8

Calle
Calle
monly called by the name of the point 2km GETTING THERE & AWAY INFORMATION 2
2

Calle 72
south. Hurricane Gilbert nearly destroyed the Balam Nah...............................1 C3 11
The best way to reach Punta Allen by public HSBC.......................................2 D2 Calle
67
town in 1988, and there was some damage, and transportation is by colectivo out of Tulum: Post Office...............................3 C2
a lot of wind-scrubbed palms, after Hurricane one leaves daily from Tulum center at 2pm SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Town
6
Hall
Dean. But Punta Allen is still walking tall. This and arrives about three hours later. Driving Centro Cultural Chan Santa
4
Cruz.....................................4 C2
is truly the end of the road, the 400-some-odd in a rental car is another option, but prepare Santuario de la Cruz Parlante....5 B1 Bus
Main
Plaza

z)
residents mostly work as fishermen – some Terminal Iglesia
for 5km/h to 10km/h speeds and more than

(Av Juáre
Calle 65 Santa Cruz
SLEEPING

all
working in restaurants popular with day- a few transmission-grinding bumps. Hotel Chan Santa Cruz............6 C2

Ped M
trippers. The village sports a laid-back ambi- Hotel Esquivel..........................7 C3

Calle 70
1 9
ence reminiscent of the Belizean cays. There’s FELIPE CARRILLO PUERTO 3
EATING
also a healthy reef 400m from shore that offers %983 / pop 21,530 Loncheria 25 Horas..................8 D2
Parrilla Galerías........................9 C3 Calle 63 7
Park
snorkelers and divers wonderful sights. Now named for a progressive governor of
The area is known primarily for its catch- Yucatán, this crossroads town 95km south of TRANSPORT
Colectivos for Tulum..............10 D1 To Chetumal
and-release bonefishing; tarpon and snook Tulum was once known as Chan Santa Cruz, Gas Station............................11 D2 (155km)
are very popular sportfish as well. The guides the rebel headquarters during the War of the
QUINTANA ROO 136 S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • M a h a h u a l & t h e C o s t a M a y a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • X c a l a k 137

QUINTANA ROO
Information statuary. In the lobby there’s an air-hockey independent-minded travelers, with great malecón (waterfront boulevard), this small
Balam Nah (Calle 65; h8am-1am) On the plaza, it table (and we said there was nothing to do beaches, excellent diving nearby, and a comfortable hotel also has a pizzeria.
offers slow, cheap internet. in Carrillo Puerto at night!). fairly laid-back Caribbean appeal. More sig- Posada de los 40 Cañones (www.los40canones.com; Km
HSBC (cnr Calles 70 & 69) Has an ATM. Loncheria 25 Horas (Calle 69; items M$20; h24hr) nificantly, Mahahual offers access to Banco 1.5; r M$600-M$1800) This Italian-owned hotel on
Post office (Calle 69; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Dirt cheap without being dirty, this casual Chinchorro, the largest coral atoll in the north- the new malecón on the south side of down-
eatery sports plastic chairs and the fumes ern hemisphere. Some 45km long and up to town is clean and comfortable with a beach
Sights of passing trucks (it’s across from the gas 14km wide, Chinchorro’s western edge lies club and restaurant. Suites are available.
The Santuario de la Cruz Parlante (Sanctuary of station), but had a giant selection of eggs, about 30km off the coast, and dozens of ships Doña Marí (mains M$30-50) Septuagenarian
the Talking Cross) is five blocks west of the sandwiches, tacos and smoothies. have fallen victim to its barely submerged ring Doña Marí is tough as nails. She began digging
gas station on Hwy 307. There’s no sign at Parrilla Galerías (%834-0313; Calle 65; mains M$40- of coral. According to early reports, the Banco out the day after the hurricane hit, and even-
the site, but you can’t miss the stone wall 80) On the plaza, it has the look of a more Chinchorro may have sustained some seri- tually moved her operation to the corner of
with a gate. Some of the town’s residents do upscale spot, but serves beer for M$15 and ous damage at the hands of Dean. While the Huchanango and Calle Sierra. Her restaurant
not like strangers in the sanctuary, and may tacos for M$40 for three. The house spe- reports are splotchy at best – and we were un- still serves tasty fish fillets prepared in various
try to take your camera if they see you using cialty is a parrilla with lots of accompani- able to independently verify the information – styles, accompanied by beans and tortillas.
it here. The building, a thatch roof set over ments (M$185 for three people). the mangroves of the above-water portion of Restaurante Mahahual (%983-834-5849; mains
walls, is next to a small cenote and set on a the atoll were destroyed, only the ranger hut M$50; h7am-8pm) Reasonably priced food at
rock slope. A sign on the door says no one Getting There & Away left standing. the north end of the pedestrian malecón.
may enter wearing a hat or shoes. Most buses serving Carrillo Puerto are de The atoll and its surrounding waters were Refresh with a colossal limonada (lime with
More accessible is the Centro Cultural Chan paso (they don’t originate there). The table made a biosphere reserve (the Reserva de soda water) or have a meal. Service is on
Santa Cruz (admission free; h 8am-9:30pm Mon-Fri, (below) shows some of the routes. la Biósfera Banco Chinchorro) to protect Mexican time.
8am-1pm & 6-8pm Sat & Sun), on the plaza, which Colectivos leave for Playa del Carmen them from depredation. But the reserve
has art exhibitions, workshops and the oc- (M$110, two hours) and Tulum (M$45, one lacks the personnel and equipment needed Getting There & Around
casional exhibit on the War of the Castes. hour) from Hwy 307 just south of Calle 73. to patrol such a large area, and many abuses Mahahual is 127km south of Felipe Carrillo
Be sure to check the mural outside, ex- Check your fuel before heading to or leav- go undetected. Puerto, and approximately 100km northeast
pressing the conviction that the war is not ing Carrillo Puerto. There are few, if any, gas There is a ban on wreck dives as many are of Bacalar. A new ADO bus terminal (a stop,
lost, and displaying accomplishments of stations between here and Valladolid (Hwy too shallow (or too looted) for good diving. really, operating between 5:30am and 6pm
Maya culture. 295), Chetumal (Hwy 307), Tulum (Hwy But there are plenty of other things to see daily) has made getting here easier than ever,
307) or José María Morelos (Hwy 184). The around the bank: coral walls and canyons, though the buses are infrequent. They depart
Sleeping & Eating one in Mahahual is a 50km detour. rays, turtles, giant sponges, grouper, tangs, here for Chetumal (M$50, 2½ hours, 6am,
Hotel Esquivel (%834-0344; hotelesquivelfcp@todito eels and, in some spots, reef, tiger and ham- 12:30pm and 6pm) and Cancún (M$170, five
.com; cnr Calles 63 & 68; d with fan/air-con M$300/380; a) MAHAHUAL & THE COSTA MAYA merhead sharks. There’s good snorkeling as hours, 8:30am and 6pm), with an additional
Around the corner from the plaza and bus Hurricane Dean virtually razed the coastal well, including 40 Cannons, a wooden ship departure at 3pm on Sunday and Monday.
terminal, this is the best hotel in town. The city of Mahahual (see p133), but it is slowly in 5m to 6m of water. Looters have taken There’s a Pemex gas station if you need to
air-con rooms are a good deal, with very recovering. We passed by just weeks after the all but about 25 of the cannons, and it can fill your tank.
clean bathrooms and tiled floors, while the hurricane, and the town was still in recov- only be visited in ideal conditions. The pro-
fan rooms have good beds and showers, but ery stage. Rather than eliminate Mahahual hibition on wreck dives doesn’t apply to XCALAK
are dark, windowless and over-perfumed. from the book entirely, which would only snorkelers. The rickety wooden houses, beached fishing
Hotel Chan Santa Cruz (%834-0021; www.hotel cause further economic hardship for the Dreamtime Dive Center (%983-834-5823; www.dream launches and lazy gliding pelicans make this
chansantacruz.com; cnr Calles 67 & 68; d M$360-400; a) town’s residents, we decided to reupdate the timediving.com; malecón), 2.7km south of Mahahual, tiny town plopped in the middle of nowhere
The rooms are just a bit too pink, giving material closer to press time. runs trips to stretches of the barrier reef and a perfect escape. Despite its proximity to
them the feel of Martha Stewart’s jail cell. Now that Mahahual no longer has a cruise- offers PADI courses. Hurricane Dean’s Ground Zero in Mahahual,
But they are clean, and there’s a mighty ship port – though plans are in place to re- Xcalak (ish-kah-lak) escaped the brunt of the
fine central courtyard complete with gaudy build it – it may be a bit more welcoming to Sleeping & Eating storm. And blessed by virtue of its remoteness
Addresses are given as distances from the and the Chinchorro barrier reef (preventing
military checkpoint at the north entrance the creation of a cruise-ship port), Xcalak may
BUS SERVICES FROM FELIPE CARRILLO PUERTO to town. yet escape the development boom.
Las Cabanas del Doctor (%983-832-2102; Km 2; After Dean, the inner portions of the
Destination Cost (M$) Duration (hr) Departures cabanas with/without bathroom M$350/250) Across the coastal reefs near Xcalak are reportedly in
Cancún 100-130 3½-4 10 1st-class buses, hourly 2nd-class buses to 9pm street from the beach, it offers several fairly better shape than the outer sections, which
Chetumal 54-94 2-3 8 1st-class & 13 2nd-class buses simple dwellings. Prices rise by about M$100 were hammered by heavy seas (waves reached
Mérida 134-146 5½ 11 2nd-class buses, 1st class at 3pm in December and Easter week. up to 5m). Ask around before you commit to
Playa del Carmen 68-76 2½ 9 1st-class buses, hourly 2nd-class buses to 9pm Posada Pachamama (%983-834-5842; www.posada a tour. Xcalak also offers easy access to the
Ticul 100 4½ 11 2nd-class buses; change there for Uxmal pachamama.net; Km 1; r M$550-750) Located across Banco Chinchorro.
Tulum 44-5 1½ 9 1st-class buses, hourly 2nd-class buses to 9pm, If diving isn’t your thing, there’s still
from the football field, which will become
consider taking a colectivo
the town plaza on the first street behind the plenty to do. Come here to walk in dusty
QUINTANA ROO 138 S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • X c a l a k Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • L a g u n a B a c a l a r 139

QUINTANA ROO
streets and sip frozen drinks while frig- arrangements, and are best contacted through serving wonderful meals such as lobster in Roo was finally conquered by Mexican troops
ates soar above translucent-green lagoons. their websites or via email. Addresses here caramel ginger sauce. Opinion was unani- in 1901. Today, with formidable cannons still
Explore a mangrove swamp by kayak, or just are expressed in kilometers north along the mous that this was the best place to go to on its ramparts, the fortress remains an im-
doze in a hammock and soak up some sun. coast from town. treat your taste buds. It’s about three blocks posing sight. It houses a museum exhibiting
Perhaps best of all, you won’t hear a single Villas La Guacamaya (%983-839-8608; www.villa west of the plaza. colonial armaments and uniforms from the
offer for hammocks or Cuban cigars. And, laguacamaya.com; Km 10; d low/high season M$500/1000; Lonchería Silvia’s (mains M$35-90; h9am-10pm) 17th and 18th centuries.
though tiny, Xcalak boasts a few nice restau- i) You’ll be greeted by an exuberant par- About three blocks south of the plaza and a The balneario (admission M$5; h10am-7pm)
rants and an easygoing mix of foreigners and rot at this quiet place 10km north of Xcalak. block in from the coast, Silvia’s serves mostly lies a few hundred meters north along the
local fishermen. It has two bright green rooms that face the fish fillets and ceviche, and keeps pretty regu- costera (waterfront avenue) below the fort.
The mangrove swamps stretching inland sea and share use of a fully equipped gour- lar hours. The long menu doesn’t mean that There are some small restaurants along the
from the coastal road hide some large la- met kitchen. Each room has a double and a everything is available. You’ll likely end up avenue and near the balneario, which is very
goons and form tunnels that invite kayakers single bed. There’s also a separate apartment having the fish. busy on weekends.
to explore. They and the drier forest teem with kitchen set back from the beach, and a
with wildlife and, as well as the usual her- fourth, smallish room with a double bed and Getting There & Around La Costera South
ons, egrets and other waterfowl, you can a lovely bathroom. It also offers bikes, kayaks Cabs from Limones cost about M$500 (in- The costera (also known as Calle 1) winds
see agouti, jabiru (storks), iguanas, javelinas and snorkel gear for guest use. cluding to the northern hotels). Buses cost south several kilometers along the lake-
(peccaries), parakeets, kingfishers, alligators Hotel Tierra Maya (www.tierramaya.net; Km 2; r low/ M$30, the same as to Mahahual even though shore from Bacalar town to Hwy 307 at
and more. Unfortunately, the mangrove also high season M$600/800, r with ocean view low/high season they travel an hour longer. Cenote Azul.
breeds mosquitoes and some vicious jejenes M$800/900) A modern beachfront hotel featuring Driving from Limones, turn right (south) Just shy of the south end of the costera
(sand flies). There’s a remote Maya ruin on six lovely rooms (three quite large), each taste- after 55km and follow the signs to Xcalak is Cenote Azul, a 90m-deep natural pool on
the western side of the lagoon. Your hotelier fully appointed and with many architectural (another 60km). Keep an eye out for the di- the southwest shore of the lake. It’s 200m
can tell you how to get there. details. Each of the rooms has mahogany fur- verse wildlife that frequents the forest and east of Hwy 307, so many buses will drop
Xcalak is seeing negative population growth. niture and a balcony facing the sea – the big- mangrove; a lot of it runs out into the road. you nearby.
Specializing in coconuts, it was an important ger rooms even have small refrigerators. Mains A taxi sporadically works the town, serving
port during the War of the Castes, and the at the pleasant restaurant are around M$160. the northern hotels for M$100 and available Sleeping
town even had a cinema until a series of hur- Rates include a continental breakfast. for hire for excursions to further destina- All the following places are along the costera
ricanes wiped everything away. Today, there’s Casa Carolina (www.casacarolina.net; Km 2.5; d low/ tions. The coastal road between Mahahual and are listed from north to south.
no signs of getting a bank, grocery store or high season M$750/950) A bright, cheery yellow, and Xcalak was closed at press time. Los Coquitos (sites per person M$40) A nice camp-
gas station anytime soon, so stock up before the Casa has four guestrooms with large, ing area on the lakeshore, run by a family who
you come. hammock-equipped balconies facing the LAGUNA BACALAR lives in a shack on the premises. You can camp
Aventuras Xcalak to Chinchorro Dive Center sea. Each room has a kitchen with fridge, Laguna Bacalar comes as a surprise in this in the dense shade of the palm trees, enjoy the
(% 983-839-8865; www.xtcdivecenter.com), about and the bathrooms try to outdo one another region of tortured limestone and scrubby jun- view of the lake from the palapas and swim
300m north of town on the coast road, of- with their beautiful Talavera tile. All levels of gle. More than 60km long with a bottom of from the grassy banks.
fers dive and snorkel trips (from M$650) scuba instruction (NAUI) are offered here, sparkling white sand, this crystal-clear lake Casita Carolina (%/fax 983-834-2334; www.casita
to the wondrous barrier reef just offshore, as well as recreational dives at the barrier offers opportunities for camping, swimming, carolina.com; d M$250-450, palapas M$450) This is a
and to Banco Chinchorro (three-tank dive reef. Rates include continental breakfast, and kayaking, bird-watching and simply lazing delightful place about 1½ blocks south of
M$1750, not including rental gear). It also there’s massage on offer. around. Hurricane Dean scrubbed the town the fort. It has a large lawn leading down to
rents diving equipment and offers PADI Sonrisa (www.playasonrisa.com; Km 7; cabanas from clean, felling a number of trees, but things the lake, five fan-cooled rooms and a deluxe
open-water certificates for M$3850, NAUI M$950) Sonrisa offers ‘clothing optional’ were recovering nicely on our last pass. palapa that sleeps up to four. Guests can ex-
and SDI instruction, as well as fishing and European-style sunbathing for couples – and The small, sleepy town of Bacalar lies east plore the lake in the Casita’s kayaks. It’s best
birding tours. couples only. Come here to lose the tan lines of the highway, 125km south of Felipe Carrillo reached by taking a bus into Bacalar and walk-
in a low-key, casual setting that includes sim- Puerto and 39km north and east of Chetumal. ing or catching a taxi.
Sleeping ple cabanas, a bar-restaurant and friendly It’s the only settlement of any size on the lake, Hotel Laguna (%983-834-2206; www.hotellaguna
The following places are among a handful on owners. Note that the cancellation penal- and is noted mostly for its old Spanish fortress bacalar.com; d M$420; s) This clean, cool, turquoise
the old coastal road leading north from town ties are steep, so read the website carefully and popular balneario (swimming facility). place is hospitable. It boasts a small swimming
(mostly run by Americans or Canadians). All and make sure of your plans. Rates include a There’s not a lot else going on, but that’s why pool, a restaurant, a bar and excellent views
have purified drinking water, ceiling fans, continental breakfast. people like it here. A growing number of for- of the lake. Some rooms are showing their
24-hour electricity (from solar or wind with eigners (chiefly Americans and Canadians) age. It’s 2km south of Bacalar town along the
generator backup), bikes and/or sea kayaks Eating have been buying up lakeside lots. costera and only 150m east of Hwy 307, so if
for guest use, and private hot-water bath- Food in Xcalak tends to be tourist-grade sea- The fortress above the lagoon was built to you’re traveling by bus on the highway you can
rooms. The first three have docks to swim food or Mexican, though the Leaky Palapa is protect citizens from raids by pirates and the ask the driver to stop at the turnoff.
off, and most arrange fishing excursions. a delectable exception. local indigenous population. It also served as Amigos B&B Laguna Bacalar (%987-872-3868;
High season here is mid-December to Leaky Palapa (meals M$50-120;h5-10pm Fri-Mon) an important outpost for the Spanish in the www.bacalar.net; d M$500; a) Brought to you by
mid-April (with very slight variations). Most Chef and owner, Marla and Linda, have War of the Castes. In 1859 it was seized by the same hospitable family that runs Amigos
places don’t accept credit cards without prior turned an old standby into a new sensation, Maya rebels, who held the fort until Quintana B&B in Cozumel, this ideally located lakefront
QUINTANA ROO 140 S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • A r o u n d B a c a l a r Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • C h e t u m a l 141

QUINTANA ROO
property (about 500m south of the fort) has variety of accommodations, including three descendants of the War of the Castes rebels. TELEPHONE
five spacious guestrooms and a comfy shared well-built and screened cabanas with good Dubbed Payo Obispo, the town changed There is no shortage of public phones around
common area. You can save M$100 by skip- private bathrooms, perfect mattresses, tiled its name to Chetumal in 1936. In 1955, town, from which you can place international
ping the breakfast. floors and a hammock; places to pitch tents Hurricane Janet virtually obliterated it. calls. The bus terminal also has an interna-
Hostel Ximba Li (%983-834-2516; cnr Av 3 & Calle or hammocks; eight RV sites with hookups; The rebuilt city is laid out on a grand plan tional phone and fax service.
30; dm M$70) This simple new hostel is located and immaculate shared bathrooms with hot with a grid of wide boulevards along which Telmex (Calle Lazaro Cárdenas; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri)
a couple of blocks from the lake and a short and cold water. You can rent kayaks here, traffic speeds (be careful at stop signs). Between Avenidas Independencia and Benito Juárez. It’s
walk to town. Breakfast included. and eat at the family-style restaurant (you possible to place long-distance calls and send faxes here.
generally eat what’s cooking, though it often Orientation & Information
Eating will prepare other, simple dishes). Chetumal is a large city but remains (thanks TOURIST INFORMATION
Of the few places to eat right in town, Orizaba’s The German owner speaks Spanish and largely to its network of wide, one-way City tourist office (%835-0860; cnr Blvd Bahía & Av
at the northwest corner of the plaza is a good very good English, and checks for incoming streets) very drivable, almost unheard of in Miguel Hidalgo; h9am-3pm Mon-Sat) Near the water-
choice. Serving consistently good Yucatecan faxes and email at least once a week. The a state capital. The southern edge is bor- front; dispenses advice.
meals, the lake-view restaurant at quaintly unpaved road in comes off the east side of dered by the water. The main street, Avenida Immigration office (%832-6353; Av Héroes; h9am-
kitsch Hotel Laguna is popular. The restaurant Hwy 307, 200m south of the southernmost Héroes, divides the city into east and west 1pm Mon-Fri) Far north of downtown, on the left about four
at Balneario Ejidal serves fresh ceviche and tope (speed bump) in Pedro A Santos, which sides, ending at the waterfront. Obregón blocks north of Avenida Insurgentes (and the bus terminal).
good grilled fish. is about 6km south of the Mahahual junc- parallels the bay and leads, heading west- It’s open for tourist-card extensions and such.
tion. You can ask to be let off 2nd-class ward, first to a glorieta (traffic circle), then Tourist information kiosk (h9am-8pm) In the bus
Getting There & Away buses either at the speed bump (and walk to the airport, then to the turn for Belize. terminal, this is usually staffed by an English-speaker and
Southbound 2nd-class buses go through the 3.2km in) or in Pedro Santos itself, to Most of the hotels and restaurants listed offers a map of the city and information on hotels.
Bacalar town on Calle 7, passing a block up- take the town’s one taxi. are clustered around the Avenida Héroes/
hill from the central square (el parque), which Obregón intersection. Dangers & Annoyances
is just above the fort and has a taxi stand. CHETUMAL Chetumal is generally safe, but be cautious
Northbound 2nd-class buses run along Calle %983 / pop 136,800 just the same, especially if walking alone late
5, a block downhill from Calle 7. Most 1st- The capital city of Quintana Roo, Chetumal EMERGENCY at night. Crime does happen, but it is rarely
class buses don’t enter town, but many will has stylish, friendly people, some decent res- Ambulance, fire & police (%066) aimed at tourists.
drop you along Hwy 307 at the turnoffs to taurants, and a lively music scene. Best of all, If you are heading south to Belize be sure
Hotel Laguna and Cenote Azul; check before this town is for real. It’s not dolled up; it’s INTERNET ACCESS to read the boxed text, p146.
you buy your ticket. just a quiet provincial capital going about its Arba (%832-2581; Efraín Aguilar; per hr M$10; Well-dressed swindlers sometimes pretend
Minibuses from Chetumal to the town of daily paces. Hurricane Dean displaced many h8am-1am Mon-Sat, 8am-midnight Sun) Several other to be travelers in trouble. If you listen long
Bacalar (M$20, 45 minutes, 39km) depart from of Chetumal’s inhabitants, but with a bit of similar cafés are nearby. enough they will ask for money for a bus ticket
the terminal on Primo de Verdad at Hidalgo lumber, some tarpaulins, sweat, rummaged to somewhere expensive, such as Acapulco.
about once an hour from 5am to 9pm. nails and a few quick-drying tears, the town MEDICAL SERVICES
If you’re driving from the north and want to is quietly rebuilding. None of the major Both of these places can handle medical Sights
reach the town and fort, take the first Bacalar tourist areas were affected. emergencies. MUSEO DE LA CULTURA MAYA
exit and continue several blocks before turn- The bayside esplanade hosts carnivals and Cruz Roja (%832-0571; cnr Avs Independencia & The Museo de la Cultura Maya (%832-6838; Av Héroes;
ing left (east) down the hill. From Chetumal, events, and the modern Maya museum is Héroes de Chapultepec) admission M$50; h9am-7pm Sun-Thu, 9am-8pm Fri & Sat) is
head west to catch Hwy 307 north; after 25km impressive (though a bit short on artifacts). Hospital Morelos (%832-4595) Just northeast in the the city’s claim to cultural fame – a bold show-
on the highway you’ll reach the signed right Impressive Maya ruins, amazing jungle and same block. piece beautifully conceived and executed.
turn for Cenote Azul and the costera. the border to neighboring Belize are all close It’s organized into three levels, mirroring
by. Though sightings are infrequent (there Maya cosmology. The main floor represents
AROUND BACALAR are no tours), manatees can sometimes be MONEY this world; the upper floor the heavens; and the
A few kilometers north of Bacalar town, right seen in the rather muddy bay or nearby There are several banks and ATMs around lower floor Xibalbá, the underworld. The vari-
next to the highway, is Puerto del Cielo Hotel y mangrove shores. town, including an ATM inside the ous exhibits (labeled in Spanish and English)
Restaurante (r M$400; as), which offers 12 Carnaval (late February/early March) is par- bus terminal. cover all of the Mayab (lands of the Maya),
air-con rooms with hot-water bathrooms ticularly lively in Chetumal. Colorful nightly Cambalache (Av Héroes) Between Calles Plutarco Elías not just Quintana Roo or Mexico, and seek to
and TV. A swimming pool overlooks Laguna parades bring locals into the streets to watch and Ignacio Zaragoza. A currency exchange. explain the Maya way of life, thought and belief.
Bacalar, but the water is two shades greener floats and plumed dancers pass by. HSBC (San Francisco de Asís supermarket; h8am-6pm Scale models show the great Maya buildings as
than that of the lake. The restaurant special- Before the Spanish conquest, Chetumal Mon-Sat) Currency exchange. With adjacent ATM, it’s they may have appeared, including a temple
izes in chicken and fish dishes. was a Maya port for shipping gold, feathers, just east of the bus terminal, a few kilometers north of complex set below Plexiglas you can walk over.
Further north, and 3.2km off the highway, cacao and copper to the northern Yucatán downtown. Though artifacts are in short supply there are
is Federico’s Laguna Azul (fax 983-834-2035; www Peninsula. After the conquest, the town replicas of stelae and a burial chamber from
.laguna-azul.de; sites per person M$35, screened palapas M$25, was not actually settled until 1898, when POST Honduras’ Copán, reproductions of the mu-
cabanas M$250), a serene, secluded spot located it was founded to put a stop to the illegal Post office (%832-2281; cnr Plutarco Elías Calles & Av rals found in Room 1 at Bonampak, and much
on the north end of Laguna Bacalar. It has a trade in arms and lumber carried on by the 5 de Mayo; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) more. Ingenious mechanical and computer
QUINTANA ROO 142 S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • C h e t u m a l lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • C h e t u m a l 143

QUINTANA ROO
MUSEO DE LA CIUDAD & TV M$750, ste M$1600; ais) Has a great loca-
CHETUMAL 0
0
500 m
0.3 mile
The Museo de la Ciudad (Local History Museum; Héroes tion and a seriously disco-mirrored lobby that
A B C D de Chapultepec; admission M$10; h9am-7pm Tue-Sun) is gets your inner Dirk Diggler’s mojo rising.
INFORMATION Hospital Morelos....................8 A3 SLEEPING small but neatly done, displaying historic pho- There’s also a nice swimming pool, wireless
Arba.......................................1 B3 HSBC.....................................9 B4 Grand Marlon Hotel.............14 B4 tos, military artifacts and old-time household
Banamex................................2 B5 Post Office...........................10 B3 Holiday Inn Chetumal Puerta access, a guarded parking lot and a popular
1
Banorte..................................3 B3 Telmex.................................11 B3 Maya...............................15 B2 items (even some vintage telephones and a sidewalk restaurant. Rooms have fridges, but
Circunvalación BBV Bancomer.......................4 A4 Hotel Guadalupe.................16 A4
Cambalache...........................5 B4 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hotel Los Cocos...................17 B3
TV). All labels are in Spanish but, even if you are a bit small and musty for the price.
City Tourist Office.................6 C5 Museo de la Ciudad.............12 B3 Hotel Mariá Dolores.............18 B4 don’t read the language, it’s worth visiting for Holiday Inn Chetumal Puerta Maya (%835-0400;
Cruz Roja...............................7 A3 Museo de la Cultura Maya...13 B2 Hotel Ucum..........................19 B2
Carranza
Instituto Quintanarroense de la
15 minutes of entertainment. www.holimaya.com.mx; Av Héroes 171; d M$1300, ste M$1690-
To Bus Terminal (2km); To Nuevo
Tourist Information Kiosk (2km); Mercado Lázaro Juventud......................... 20 D4 3630; ais) The best in town, with comfort-
HSBC (2km); Supermercado San Cárdenas (1km);
Sleeping

a
able rooms that overlook a small courtyard, a

oy

ez
Francisco de Asis (2km); Gibson Tours & EATING

is M

u
Belizean Conulate (2.5km); Transfers (1km)

árq
Av Primo de Ver Barrios.................................21 A4 Instituto Quintanarroense de la Juventud (%832- swimming pool set amid tropical gardens, and

as
Immigration Office (3km)

Lu

M
dad

Frí
Café del Arte........................22 B2

ría
Calza
Morelos

co
0525; Heroica Escuela Naval; sites M$30, dm M$50) Between

to
a restaurant and bar. The Maya sun mirror in
I Madero

Café-Restaurant Los

Ma

cis

ier
n

Eb
Milagros..........................23 B4 Calzada Veracruz and Avenida Cozumel. The

Fra
é
the lobby adds interesting flair.

Jos
a Ve
re
34
Costa Azul...........................24 B4

tiemb
Cristóbal Colón
Av José María

2 price is hard to beat, and kind Spanish-speaking

Av Francisco

El Fenicio..............................25 B4

racru
cuita de Don Julio.........26
de Sep
El Taquito B3 staff will assist with information. Downsides
Juan Es Eating & Drinking
Av Belice

31
oes

13

z
Mercado Ignacio Manuel
Av Hér

33
Taxi 22
Av 16
Barre
ra
Altamirano.......................
de la
27 B2 include showers that tease with a minute of El Taquito de Don Julio (Plutarco Elías Calles 220; tacos
Av Mahatma Stand 19 Juan Brujo...........................28
Pollo B4
Gandhi
29 Restaurant Pantoja............... 29 C2
warmth before turning icy, many toilets flood M$8-12, mains M$50-70; hnoon-5pm & 7pm-1am Mon-
e lg ar
27 15 Av Miguel Hidalgo Sergio's
Au
M
gustínPizzas......................30 B4 or don’t flush, and most stalls don’t have doors. Sat) This is an airy, simple dining room and
uez The beds are OK, the rooms are a bit stuffy, and
Efraín Aguilar
TRANSPORT co M
á rq a good spot for night owls. The small tacos
8 rancis
ADO FOffice.........................31 there are single-sex and couples rooms.
ncia

1 B2 cost slightly more with cheese; other menu

rez

Aviacsa................................32 B3
Av Independe

ico Hotel Ucum (%832-0711, 832-6186; Av Mahatma

Av Benito Juá

Héroes de Chapultep
ec 7 12 Combis to Bus Terminal
Ta
mp & offerings include cheap snacks, tortas and
Calle Héroes
de Chapultep
Immigration
l z a daOffice...........33 B2 Gandhi 167; d with fan/air-con M$200/$350; as) This vegetarian brochettes (M$35).
17 ec Ca
Minibus Terminal................. 34 C2
3 11 fine motel-like place looks like it may have Barrios (cnr Othón P Blanco & Independencia; mains M$10-
Lázaro Cárdenas
once been used as a Jackie Chan movie set. 50; h8am-2pm Mon-Sat) Great little eatery with
And despite the unfortunate name (a town Mexican favorites such as salbutes or quesadil-
32
Plutarco Elías
Calles 3 in Campeche), it offers pretty decent rooms, a las and cebada (a refreshing barley drink).
10
26
(slightly milky) swimming pool and a restau- Café del Arte (Av Heŕroes 171; snacks M$20-50; h8am-
rant serving good, inexpensive food. 1pm & 7-10pm) This is a pretty hip joint right
uz

To Hwy 186 & 5

Calzada Veracr

Hwy 307 (1km); 14

Hotel María Dolores (%832-0508; Av Álvaro Obregón across the street from the museum. The
Av Cozumel

Airport (2km); Calle Ignacio Zara 23

Belize (10km); goza
Escárcega (273km); 25 206; s M$220, d without/with air-con M$240/270) Follow friendly owner, Raquel, offers up good snacks
16
Av 16 de Septiembre

Cancún (382km)
the ‘Duke of Ducks’ to this little pink-and-
Av 5 de Mayo

and coffee drinks, and is also a painter. Many

Av Miguel Hidalgo
Av Héroes

24
Av Álvaro Obregó
4 n aquamarine hotel west of Avenida Héroes. of her pieces adorn the walls.
Av Reforma

4 18
28 30 20
Heroica Esc
uela Naval The beds are a bit saggy, but some of the fan- Café-Restaurant Los Milagros (% 832-4433;
21
Othón P Blanco cooled rooms are a good size and there’s off- Calle Ignacio Zaragoza; breakfast M$25-70, mains M$40-60;
9
street parking and a free water jug in the lobby h7:30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 7:30am-1pm Sun) Serves great
Carmen Oc
Gas Station (an enviro-traveler’s delight). espresso and food indoors and outdoors. A
hoa de Me
rino Hotel Guadalupe (%832-8649; Calle Ignacio Zaragoza favorite with Chetumal’s student and intellec-
d Bah
ía 226; s/d with fan M$250/280, r with air-con M$400; a) You tual set, it’s also a place to play chess or domi-
22 de Enero Bl v
could eat dinner off the spotless floors of this noes, chat, or observe a local radio program
2
Blvd Bahía 6
hotel’s spick-and-span rooms. Despite the being broadcast from one of the tables.
5 Clock cleanliness, the rooms are slightly stale but air Restaurant Pantoja (%832-3957; cnr Avs Mahatma
Tower
out quickly. Peach-pink walls make the place Gandhi & 16 de Septiembre; mains M$30-70; h7am-7pm) A
cheery, and the staff are very friendly. popular, family-run restaurant serving break-
Bahía Chetumal
o Grand Marlon Hotel (% 285-3279; fasts, enchiladas and a variety of meat dishes.
[email protected]; Av Juárez 88; d M$500; It offers a M$40 menu del día. Although fan-
a) With modern clean lines, a rather funky cooled, it gets a bit warm in the afternoon.
displays illustrate the Maya’s complex calendri- the courtyard is a na with implements of daily pool area (complete with Astroturf and a luke- Pollo Brujo (%837-4747; Av Álvaro Obregón 208; half-
cal, numerical and writing systems. Maya life on display: gourds, grinders and a warm Jacuzzi), the ‘Grand’ almost achieves /whole chicken M$42-77;h10am-10pm) West of Hotel
The museum’s courtyard, which you can metate. Just walk past the ticket window. ‘hip boutique’ status. And the simple, stylish María Dolores. Only chicken is served in this
enter for free, has salons for temporary exhib- Look for a bronze bust in the middle of rooms are an excellent deal for the price. Or, joint; take it with you or dine in the air-con
its of modern artists (such as Rufino Tamayo), Avenida Héroes, just east of the museum’s you can save a few pesos by heading across salon. Service is with a snarl.
paintings reproducing Maya frescoes and a entrance. It depicts Jacinto Pat, one of the the street to the plain ol’ Marlon. El Fenicio (cnr Av Héroes & Calle Ignacio Zaragoza; mains
cinemuseo (cinema showing historic films) Maya leaders who planned the insurrection Hotel Los Cocos (%832-0544; www.hotelloscocos.com $35-90; h24hr) Come here at 11pm and you’ll feel
giving free film showings. In the middle of that became the War of the Castes. .mx; cnr Av Héroes & Calle Héroes de Chapultepec; d with air-con like you’ve stepped into a Hopper painting: the
QUINTANA ROO 144 S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • C h e t u m a l lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • C o r re d o r A r q u e o l ó g i c o 145

QUINTANA ROO
yellow light, the few solitary diners hunched Getting There & Away You can also buy tickets for some lines
over a meal. The food, a selection of mainly AIR and get information about most bus serv- TINY TRAILBLAZERS
Mexican fare, is tasty and served promptly. Chetumal’s small airport is roughly 2km ices at the ADO office (Av Belice; h6am-10pm), just The small trails you’ll see crisscrossing the
Flan and decent American-style coffee are a northwest of the city center along Avenida west of the Museo de la Cultura Maya. cleared areas in many of the ruins baffle
tasty way to finish the day. Obregón. Many local buses, and those bound for observant visitors. What made them? A ro-
Sergio’s Pizzas (%832-2991; cnr Avs Álvaro Obregón & Aviacsa (%01-800-771-6733; www.aviacsa.com; cnr Belize, begin their runs from the Nuevo dent? To get the answer right you have to
5 de Mayo; pizza M$45-170, mains M$60-160; a) A well Lázaro Cárdenas & Av 5 de Mayo) flies to Mexico City Mercado Lázaro Cárdenas, on Calzada think tiny: ants.
air-conditioned place serving pizzas and cold once a day Sunday to Friday. Veracruz at Confederación Nacional Leaf-cutter ants, to be specific. Some-
beer in frosted mugs, plus Mexican and con- For flights to Belize City (and on to Flores, Campesina (also called Segundo Circuito), times marching up to several kilometers
tinental dishes, steaks and seafood, comple- to reach Tikal) or to Belize’s cays, cross the about 10 blocks north of Avenida Primo de from their colony, leaf-cutter ants walk in
mented by an extensive wine list. border into Belize and fly from Corozal. Verdad. From this market, most 1st-class single file along predetermined routes, often
Costa Azul (%129-2002; Calle Ignacio Zaragoza 166; Belize-bound buses continue to the long- wearing down a pathway over a period
mains M$60-120; h11:30am-8pm) Popular palapa- BUS distance terminal and depart from there of months or years. Patient observers can
topped bar-restaurant with a fun Caribbean- The main bus terminal is about 2km north 15 minutes later; the 2nd-class buses don’t. often see the tiny landscapers at work,
Chetumalan vibe. Just plastic chairs and of the center, near the intersection of Tickets can be purchased on board the buses carrying fingernail-sized clippings back
(sometimes) a mariachi or two. Avenidas Insurgentes and Belice. Services or (1st-class only) at the main terminal. home. Though they can bite if molested,
Across from the Holiday Inn is the Mercado are provided by Deluxe Omnitur del Caribe, The minibus terminal (cnr Avs Primo de Verdad & these ants are generally harmless and should
Ignacio Manuel Altamirano and its row of Maya de Oro and Super Expresso; ADO and Miguel Hidalgo) has services to Bacalar and other be left in peace to do their work.
small, simple eateries serving inexpensive Cristóbal Colón (1st class); and (2nd class) nearby destinations. Departures listed in the
meals. Similar is the upstairs area in the Nuevo TRT, Sur and Mayab (a cut above), among table (opposite) are from the main terminal
Mercado Lázaro Cárdenas (Calzada Veracruz). others. The terminal has lockers (in the store unless otherwise noted. worth a visit for its secluded, semiwild na-
Supermercado San Francisco de Asís, just against the east wall, near the pay toilets), a ture. While many of the trees were toppled by
east of the bus terminal, has a wide selection of bus information kiosk (open until 3pm), an TAXI Dean, the site is recovering, and the temples
groceries, and is a department store besides. ATM, a cafeteria and shops. Gibson Tours & Transfers (www.gibsontoursandtransfers withstood the blasting (those Maya were some
.com) charges M$250/500 to the border/ bee’s-knees architects!).
Corozal. Though pricier than a bus, its taxi Dzibanché (dzee-ban-chay; literally, ‘writ-
BUS SERVICES FROM CHETUMAL can wait for you and it can assist with bor- ing on wood’) was a major city extending
Destination Cost (M$) Duration Departures der problems (see boxed text, p146). more than 40 sq km, and on the road in
Bacalar 20 45min hourly minibuses from minibus terminal; many Mayab you pass huge mounds. The site itself is not
buses from main terminal Getting Around completely excavated.
Belize City, Belize 100 3-4hr 18 1st- & 2nd-class Novelos & Northern buses depart from From anywhere in town taxis charge a flat
fare of M$20. From the traffic circle at The first restored structure you come to is
Nuevo Mercado 4:30am-6:30pm, some depart main Edificio 6, the Palacio de los Dinteles (Palace of the
terminal 15min later Avenida Héroes, you can also get a combi
(van) for M$3 to the town center via the Lintels), which gave the site its name. This is a
Campeche 170-250 6½-9hr 1 ADO bus at noon, TRT buses at 4:15am & 2:15pm perfect spot to orient yourself for the rest of the
Cancún 180-210 5½-6½hr many buses Santa Maria or Calderitas eastbound buses.
To reach the terminal from the center, catch site: facing Edificio 6’s steps, you are looking
Corozal, Belize 35 1hr with border 18 1st- & 2nd-class Venus & other buses depart Nuevo
formalities Mercado 4:30am-6:30pm, some depart main terminal a combi from Avenida Belice behind the east. It’s a pyramid topped by a temple with two
15min later Museo de la Cultura Maya. Ask to be left at vaulted galleries; the base dates from the early
Escárcega 120-160 4-6hr 5 buses 4:15am-10:30pm the glorieta at Avenida Insurgentes. Head left Classic period (AD 300–600), while the temple
Felipe Carrillo Puerto 54-90 2-3hr many buses (west) to reach the terminal. The immigra- is from the Late Classic period (AD 600–900).
Flores, Guatemala 290 8hr 5 Servicio San Juan, Linea Dorado & Mundo Maya buses tion office is about 800m north of the glori- Climb the steps and stand directly under the
(for Tikal) 6:20am-2:30pm eta. (Ask for the oficina de inmigración.) original lintel on the right (south) side of the
Mahahual 50 4hr 2nd-class buses at 4am, 6am & 3:15pm temple. Looking up you can see a Maya calen-
Mérida 180-250 6-8hr 8 Omnitur del Caribe & Super Expresso buses, 3 Mayab buses CORREDOR ARQUEOLÓGICO drical inscription with the date working out to
Orange Walk, Belize 30-45 2¼hr 18 1st- & 2nd-class Novelos & Northern buses depart Nuevo The Corredor Arqueológico comprises the AD 733. This is some old wood.
Mercado 4:30am-6:30pm, some depart main terminal archaeological sites of Dzibanché and Kohun- On descending, head to your left (south)
15min later and thread between a mound on the right and
lich. After Hurricane Dean, Dzibanché was
Palenque 280 7-8hr 4 Altos & Colón buses a low, mostly restored, stepped structure on
Playa del Carmen 140-180 4½-6hr many buses closed due to heavy treefall. It’s open now, but
the site is missing many of the trees that made the left. This structure is Edificio 16, Palacio de
Ticul 155 6hr 6 Mayab buses
Tulum 110-144 3½-4hr many buses it so great. Kohunlich also suffered serious los Tucanes; in the center from the side you first
Valladolid 140 6hr 6 Mayab buses treefall, but has remained open to the public. approach on are the visible remains of posts
Veracruz 620 16hr 2 ADO buses that bore a mask. The path then brings you
Villahermosa 330 7-9hr 5 ADO buses Sights into Plaza Gann. Circling it counterclockwise
Xcalak 66 5hr 2nd-class buses at 4am, 6am & 3:15pm DZIBANCHÉ takes you past Edificio 14 (stuck onto the north
Xpujil 55-78 2-3hr 9 buses 4:15am-10:30pm Though it’s a chore to get to, this archaeologi- side of a larger building), decorated at the base
cal site (admission M$37; h8am-5pm) is definitely with tamborcillos (little drums), in Late Classic
 © Lonely Planet Publications
QUINTANA ROO 146 S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • C o r re d o r A r q u e o l ó g i c o lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H E R N Q U I N TA N A R O O • • Z o n a L i b re 147

QUINTANA ROO
Río Bec style – look up the dirt hill to see them. bit dicey, so be careful) are quite impressive. The ruins, dating from both the late pre- Taxis can be rented per hour in Chetumal
The larger building to the south is Edificio 13, You can see Grupo Lamay to the west and Classic (AD 100–200) and the early Classic for as little as M$200; a group could pile in
Templo de los Cautivos, so named for the carvings you may spot Kinich-Ná, more than 2km to (AD 300–600) periods, are famous for the and split the cost.
in its steps of captives submitting to whatever the northwest. great Templo de los Mascarones (Temple of the Tour operators in Xpujil (p225) offer trips
captives submitted to in those days. This seems Masks), a pyramid-like structure with a to Kohunlich and Dzibanché for M$750.
to be the dominant (if you’ll pardon the pun) Kinich-Ná central stairway flanked by huge, 3m-high
theme in most Maya stelae. Part of Dzibanché but well removed from the stucco masks of the sun god. The thick lips ZONA LIBRE
On the east side of the plaza is Dzibanché’s main site, Kinich-Ná consists of one building. and prominent features are reminiscent of A bustling free-trade zone sprawling over 24
highest structure, the Templo de los Cormoranes But what a building: the megalithic Acrópolis Olmec sculpture. Of the eight original masks, muddy hectares in a no-man’s-land between
(Temple of the Cormorants; Edificio 2), whose held at least five temples on three levels, and only two are relatively intact following the the borders of Belize and Mexico, the Zona
upper structure has been restored. The lower a couple more dead VIPs with offerings. The ravages of archaeological looters. Libre draws thousands of Mexicans seeking
part is covered in greenery. A vaulted passage site’s name derives from the frieze of the The masks themselves are impressive, cheap liquor and cigarettes, knockoff clothing
beckons halfway up, but at last pass it was Maya sun god once found at the top of the but you can only see them from close up and CDs and other shiny things.
forbidden to climb the temple. structure. It’s an easy drive of 2km along a because the large thatch coverings that have Minibuses depart from their terminal in
Exit the plaza by climbing the stone steps to narrow but good road leading north from been erected to protect them from further Chetumal at the corner of Avenidas Primo
the north of Edificio 2. At the top of the stairs near Dzibanché’s visitors center. weathering obscure the view. Try to imagine de Verdad and Hidalgo about every half-hour
is Plaza del Xibalbá (Plaza of the Underworld), what the pyramid and its red masks must between 6am and 9pm, charging M$8 for the
though it’s higher than Plaza Gann. KOHUNLICH have looked like in the old days as the Maya 20-minute trip. If traffic is bad at the border
Opposite Palacio Norte is, of course, The most accessible of the corridor’s ruins has approached them across the sunken courtyard you can get off and walk over the bridge, then
Palacio Sur, and from here you can see more nearly 200 mounds still covered in vegetation. at the front. turn left; you can’t miss it. Walking back you
of Edificio 2, but the most notable building The surrounding jungle was a thick tangle A few hundred meters southwest of Plaza may need to show your passport, but usually
is across the plaza: Edificio 1, the Templo del of half-felled trees at last pass. The speed of Merwin are the 27 Escalones (27 Steps), the officials will just ask where you’ve been and
Buho (Temple of the Owl). It had an inner vegetation regeneration in this tropical area remains of an extensive residential area. wave you through.
chamber with a stairway leading down to means that it should be well on its way to The hydraulic engineering used at Kohun-
another chamber, in which were found the recovery by the time this book hits the shelves. lich was a great achievement; 90,000 of the SOUTH TO BELIZE & GUATEMALA
remains of a Very Important Personage (VIP) The archaeological site (admission M$40, guide M$250; site’s 210,000 sq meters were cut to channel Corozal
and burial offerings. The nearly 360-degree h8am-5pm) sits on a carpeted green. Drinks are rainwater into Kohunlich’s once enormous %501 / pop 8800
views from the very top of the temple (it’s a sometimes sold at the site, and it has toilets. reservoir. This fairly laid-back town, 18km south of
the Mexico–Belize border, is an appropri-
Getting There & Away ate introduction to English-speaking Belize.
NO-MAN’S-LAND The turnoff for Dzibanché from Hwy 186 is There’s a simple plaza in the center, a water-
‘No-Man’s-Land’ is the strip of territory after the Mexican exit but before you’ve crossed into Belize. about 44km west of Chetumal, on the right front and a lot of chickens running around.
Many tourists head to Chetumal expecting to make a quick zip across the border and back to just after the Zona Archeológica sign. From Visitors might want to check out the but-
renew their tourist card. While most tourists cross without problem, the occasional unscrupulous there it’s another 24km north and east along terfly farm, take a boat trip to neighboring
official will invent an excuse to not let you through even though it is perfectly legitimate. a pot-holed road. It’s quite passable in a pas- islands from Thunderbolt Dock or visit the
Often they’ll say there’s a ‘minimum 72-hour stay in Belize.’ (There isn’t.) Or they’ll claim senger car, but watch for livestock, sun-drunk smallish Santa Rita archaeological site just
that you need a Mexican re-entry stamp for them to let you through. (You don’t.) Sometimes iguanas and birdlife. Just after the tiny town minutes away from town. A Belize Bank with
they’ll say that Belize doesn’t welcome day trips, as ‘tourists don’t spend enough money in their of Morocoy you’ll need to turn right again. an ATM is at the plaza.
country.’ (The Belizean consulate says trips, even day trips, across the border are perfectly fine, It’s easy to miss the sign unless you’re look- The following places are within a five-
as do the Mexican officials.) ing for it. minute walk from the bus stop.
If a guard decides to single you out, there’s not a lot you can do other than pay up or beg Kohunlich’s turnoff is 3km west along Hwy Corozal Guest House (% 422-0634; Av 6 No 22;
your way back into Mexico and try again. The following should help: 186 from the Dzibanché turnoff, and the site US$22.50; n) makes big claims to be ‘Your
lies at the end of a paved 8.5km road. It’s a Friendly Guest House,’ and indeed it is. It’s
Group up with other foreign travelers.
well-paved straight shot from the highway. clean and simple, with spacious rooms, towels
Get visas and other papers stamped at the Belize office in Chetumal prior to crossing. At the time of writing, there was no public and soap.
Don’t disclose that you’re intending a day trip. transportation running directly to either of Both Al’s Cafe (h8am-3pm) and Patty’s Bistro
the sites. They’re best visited by car, though (h8am-3pm) offer inexpensive Belizean meals
Even if you are not planning to return to Mexico, if you have more than a few days left on
Kohunlich could conceivably be reached by for around US$3.
your tourist card you can have it prestamped for a re-entry by Mexican exit officials. This costs
taking an early bus to the village of Francisco Gilharry Bus service, across the street, has
only M$100 and is a good way to ensure a smooth crossing onward.
Villa near the turnoff, then either hitchhiking US$4 rides to the Belize–Mexico border. From
Often the yellow-shirted guards are more understanding and helpful than the white-shirted or walking the 8.5km to the site. To return Corozal you can take buses to Melchor de
officials behind the desk. by bus to Chetumal or head west to Xpujil or Mencos, Guatemala, which will take you to
Crossing back into Mexico, be sure to check that your Belize exit stamp is clear and easy to Escárcega you must hope to flag down a bus Flores and the Maya supersite of Tikal. You
read, with the official’s signature and the date written inside. on the highway; not all buses will stop. can also head to Belize City.
QUINTANA ROO 148 149

QUINTANA ROO
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
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 © Lonely Planet Publications
148 lonelyplanet.com M É R I D A • • H i s t o r y 149

MÉRIDA Mérida today is the peninsula’s center of

Yucatán State %999 / pop 781,146

Since the Spanish conquest, Mérida has been
commerce, a bustling city that has benefited
greatly from the maquiladoras (low-paying,
for-export factories) that opened in the 1980s
and 1990s, and the tourism industry that
the cultural capital of the entire peninsula. At picked up during those decades. This suc-
times provincial, at others ‘muy cosmopoli- cess means the town grows more each year,
tano,’ it is a town steeped in colonial history, with immigrants flooding in from all around
A wild undercurrent, writhing like a liquid goddess, resides beneath the scrub jungle, with narrow streets, broad central plazas and Mexico. There’s even a large Lebanese com-
the region’s best museums. It’s also a perfect munity in town. This still being the provinces,
pyramids and rolling hills of Yucatán state. hub to kick off your adventure into the rest locals refer to the Lebanese as Turks.
of Yucatán state. There are cheap eats, good
You feel her tides as you walk beneath the towering Maya pyramids of Chichén Itzá
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
hostels and hotels, thriving markets and
and Uxmal, imagining the rich waves of history, slaughter, deceit, fame and famine that goings-on just about every night somewhere
ORIENTATION
rolled through these mighty power centers. She ebbs and flows in the intact colonial cities The Plaza Grande, as Méridanos call the main
in the downtown area.
square, has been the city’s heart since the time
of Mérida, Valladolid and Izamal as huipil (woven tunic)-clad mestizas mingle with trendy Long popular with European travelers
of the Maya. Though Mérida now sprawls
students, factory workers, tourists and the wealthy elite as they ply the streets of the pe- looking to go beyond the hubbub of Quin-
several kilometers in all directions, most of the
tana Roo’s resort towns, Mérida is not an
ninsula’s modern-day cultural crossroads. She gurgles and spits and purges and pulls in the services and attractions for visitors are within
‘undiscovered Mexican gem’ like some of
bird-clogged estuaries along the coasts, and underground in the vast system of caves and five blocks of the Plaza Grande. Following
the tourist brochures claim. Simply put, it’s
the classic colonial plan, the square, hold-
cenotes (limestone sinkholes) that pock the region. a tourist town, but a tourist town too big
ing the cathedral and seats of government,
to feel like a tourist trap. And as the capital
Sitting regally on the northern tip of the peninsula, Yucatán state sees less mass tourism is ringed by several barrios (neighborhoods).
of Yucatán state, Mérida is also the cultural
Each barrio has its park and church (side by
than her flashy neighbor, Quintana Roo. She is sophisticated and savvy, and the perfect spot crossroads of the region, and there’s some-
side), usually bearing the same name: for ex-
for travelers more interested in cultural exploration than beach bumming. Sure, there are a thing just a smidge elitist about the people
ample Iglesia de Santiago is next to Parque de
who live here. They’ve got a damned nice
few nice beaches in Celestún and Progreso, but most people come to this area to explore Santiago in Barrio de Santiago. Locals orient
town, and they know it.
the ancient Maya sites peppered throughout the region, like the Ruta Puuc, which will take themselves and often give directions referring
HISTORY to the barrios.
you to four or five ruins in just a day.
Francisco de Montejo (the Younger) founded Odd-numbered streets run east–west;
Visitors also come to experience the past and present in the cloistered corners of colonial a Spanish colony at Campeche, about 160km even-numbered streets run north–south.
to the southwest, in 1540. From this base he House numbers may increase very slowly,
cities, to visit henequen haciendas lost to time (or restored by caring hands to old glory), and to and addresses are usually given in this form:
discover the energy, spirit and subtle contrasts of this authentic corner of southern Mexico. took advantage of political dissension among
the Maya (see boxed text, p174), conquer- ‘Calle 57 No 481 x 56 y 58’ (between streets
ing T’ho (now Mérida) in 1542. By decade’s 56 and 58).
end Yucatán was mostly under Spanish From 8pm Saturday to 11pm Sunday,
HIGHLIGHTS Calles 60 and 62 are closed to motor vehicles
colonial rule.
When Montejo’s conquistadors entered between Plaza Grande and Calle 55.
Marvel at colonial architecture, take a few Spanish-language courses or attend a free concert
in Mérida (opposite), the cultural capital of the peninsula T’ho, they found a major Maya settlement
Find out why they named Chichén Itzá (p186) the ‘seventh modern wonder of the world,’ or
of lime-mortared stone that reminded them INFORMATION
why Ek’Balam (p196) should have at least made the list
of the Roman architecture in Mérida, Spain. Bookstores
They promptly renamed the city and pro- Librería Dante (%928-3674; Calle 59 btwn Calles 60
Scan the salty horizon for flamingos, harpy ceeded to build it into the regional capital, & 62; h8am-9:30pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) Has a
Río Lagartos
eagles and crocodiles among the mangroves dismantling the Maya structures and using small selection of paperbacks in English, as well as some
of Reserva de la Biósfera Ría Celestún the materials to construct a cathedral and guidebooks, and a large selection of archaeology books
(p180) or Río Lagartos (p198) Ek'Balam
Mérida other stately buildings. Mérida took its co- in English, French, German and Spanish. The company
Bump your way through the countryside on Reserva de la Cuzamá Valladolid lonial orders directly from Spain, not from has other branches throughout the city, including one on
Biósfera Ría Chichén
a horse-drawn train cart, stopping to dive Celestún Itzá Mexico City, and Yucatán has had a distinct Plaza Grande (%928-2611) on the corner of Calle 61
into the sparkling azure riffs of the cenotes of cultural and political identity ever since. and Calle 62.
Cuzamá (p175) Ruta Puuc During the War of the Castes (p36), only
Spin off the tourist track to the less-visited Mérida and Campeche were able to hold out Emergency
areas around Valladolid (p193) and the remote against the rebel forces. On the brink of sur- Emergency (%066)
archaeological sites of the Ruta Puuc (p172) render, the ruling class in Mérida was saved Fire (%924-9242)
by reinforcements sent from central Mexico Police (%925-2034)
in exchange for Mérida’s agreement to take Red Cross (%924-9813)
POPULATION: 1,818,948 AREA: 39,340 SQ KM
orders from Mexico City. Tourist police (%925-2555 ext 260)
 150 Y U C AT Á N S TAT E lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M É R I D A • • I n f o r m a t i o n 151

YUCATÁN STATE 0
0
80 km
50 miles
Internet Access
90ºW 89ºW 88ºW
Most internet places around town charge
Bahia la
M$10 per hour. Plans are in the works to
Cayo Arenas Ensenada make the entire downtown Plaza Grande a
wi-fi hotspot.
Arrecife
Alacranes
Laundry
Most upmarket hotels offer overnight laundry
Cayo Nuevo Gulf of Río
Lagartos
Las
Coloradas Estero Río service.
San Lagartos
Mexico Felipe Lavandería La Fe (%924-4531; Calle 64 btwn Calles
Reserva de la El Cuyo 55 & 57; h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat) Charges
Biósfera Ría
Reserva Estatal M$40 per 3kg load (less for smaller loads).
YUCATÁN STATE

Lagartos

YUCATÁN STATE
Dzilam de Bravo
MEX
Telchac MEX 295

Uaymitún MEX
Puerto 27 Dzilam de
Bravo
Media
To Chiquila (15km);
Progreso
Yucalpetén
27
MEX Panabá Isla Holbox Ferry (15km) Yucatán Today (%927-8531; www.yucatantoday.com;
Cayos Chicxulub Xcambó 172
San
Arcas Puerto Buctzotz
Colonia
Yucatán Ángel
Calle 39 No 483 int 10 btwn Calles 54 & 56) A Spanish-
Dzemul Yoactún
Sisal
MEX
261
MEX
4
MEX
176 MEX
English magazine devoted to tourism in Yucatán. Pick up a
Motul
Sucilá 176
Tizimín copy of the magazine or visit the website for great tips and
Kantunilkín
MEX
25 Dzibilchaltún
Conkal
Tepakán useful information.
21ºN Calotmul 21ºN
Arrecifes Triángulos Hunucmá Tixkokob Popolnah
International MÉRIDA Espita
Estero
Celestún Kinchil
Airport Kanasín Ake
Hacienda
Balantún
Genesis
Eco Retreat
Yokdzonot
Nuevo Medical Services
Ticopo Izamal Xcan
Hacienda
Celestún MEX Umán MEX
180 Ek'Balam Hospital O’Horán (%924-4800, 924-1111;
281 Hoctún Tunkas
Samahil Seyé
Real de
Salinas
Petectunich
Dzitas Xcan To Cancún Av de los Itzáes) For most treatments (including pre-
Reserva de MEX Zocchel Kantunil (68km)
Punta la Biósfera 180
Hacienda
Acanceh Tinum
exit
MEX
180D
scriptions and consultations) you’re best off going to
Nimún Ría Celestún Hacienda Chocholá Yaxcopoil Tecoh exit
Isla Hacienda
Santo
Hacienda Hacienda Cuzamá
Huhí
Pisté Valladolid
a private clinic. Ask at your consulate or hotel for a
Arena Kochol Santa Rosa Ochil recommendation.
Telchaquillo Yodznot
Hacienda Kopoma Abalá Chichén MEX
Chemax
180
La Chunchucmil Maxcanú MEX Itzá Chichimilá
Hacienda MEX 18 Sotuta
Calcehtok
Costa
Granada 261 Ruinas de
Mayapán Tekit
San Pedro
Yaxcabá
Money
Oxkintok Grutas de
Calcehtok Muna Sacalum Mama Mayapán MEX
295 Cobá
Banks and ATMs are scattered throughout
Santa Bécal
Chumayel the city. There is a cluster of both along
Cruz Ticul
Calkiní
Santa
Elena
Maní Teabo Calle 65 between Calles 60 and 62, one block
Uxmal Yotholín
Grutas de Oxkutzcab To Cancún
(130km)
south of the Plaza Grande. Casas de cambio
Kabah
Loltún
Tepich (money-exchange offices) offer faster service
Tekax Tulum
Labná
Cooperativa and longer hours than banks, but often with
Tihosuco Parque
Hecelchakán Sayil
Xlapak
MEX
184
Nacional poorer rates.
MEX Peto Tulum
261 Xul
sias

Bolonchén Laguna
Tenabo Tzucacab
Post
Igle

20ºN de Rejón Itzimté Chunyaxché 20ºN

Santa as
Rosa a de L Main post office (%928-5404; Calle 53 No 469 btwn
Rut
Laguna Quintana Calles 52 & 54; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri, for stamps only
MEX Dzuiché Chicnancanab Roo
CAMPECHE 180
9am-1pm Sat)
Yucatán
To Villahermosa Tahacok Postal service booth Airport (hMon-Fri); CAME bus
José María
(373km)
San Hopelchén Morelos MEX
MEX
307
terminal (Calle 70 btwn Calles 69 & 71;hMon-Fri)
Antonio 295
Cayal
MEX
184 Telephone
Edzná Pakchén
Iturbide Polyuc Laguna
Felipe Card phones can be found throughout the city.
Dzibilnocac Carrillo
Kaná
El Tabasqueño Puerto Internet cafés also offer Voice Over Internet
Reserva
To Villahermosa
Pich Dzibalchén Laguna de la Protocol (VOIP)–based phone services.
Ocom Biósfera
(340km) Hochob Sian Ka’an

Campeche
MEX
307 Toilets
Laguna
There are pay toilets in the CAME bus terminal
Ucum Xmaben Xpaitoro (Calle 70 btwn Calles 69 & 71). The free museums
Nohbec are also good spots to unburden your-
Laguna
Nohbec self. Bring your own toilet paper, and be
19ºN
Reserva de la
Biósfera Calakmul
To Chetumal
19ºN
sure all used paper is put in the trashcan,
(110km)
90ºW 89ºW 88ºW not flushed (the drains can’t cope).
 152 M É R I D A lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M É R I D A • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s 153

MÉRIDA 0
0 0.2 miles
400 m Tourist Information
The tourist information booths at the airport
A B C
To Inegi (100m); D E F and the CAME bus terminal have coupons
French Consulate (400m); American Consulate (500m); To Yucatán
Av Colón (600m); Cuban Embassy (2km); El Cielo & Slavia (2.5km) Today for lodging discounts and hotel suggestions.
To Fiesta Americana Mérida (600m); Hyatt Regency
Mérida (600m); Plaza Las Americas (1km); Click Mexicana (1.5km);
Three tourist offices downtown have more
Continental Airlines (1.5km); Ecoturismo Yucatán (4km); current information, brochures, bus schedules
1 Nómadas Travel (5km); Dzibilchaltún (17km); 26 1

72
Progreso (33km) Calle 43 and maps.
e
Call
City tourist office (%942-0000 ext 80119; Calle 62 on
66 84
Plaza Grande; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) Just
south of the main entrance to the Palacio Municipal, it is

de Mon jo
tejo
Calle 45

te
staffed with helpful English speakers. It offers free walking

de Mon
Iglesia de
Santa Ana
tours of the city at 9.30am (see p157).
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
Parque
State tourist office (%930-3101; Calle 61 on Plaza

Paseo
Santa Ana

Paseo
59
Calle 47
Calle 47
A Calle 47 Grande;h8am-9pm) In the entrance to the Palacio de
2 2 Gobierno. It usually has an English speaker on hand.
9
Tourist Information Center (%924-9290; cnr Calles

A
Calle 56
Calle 49
60 & 57A; h8am-9pm) Less than two blocks north of the
Calle
51

Calle 62
state tourist office, on the southwest edge of the Teatro

Calle 60
Peón Contreras, this office is used for training tourism

Calle 58

56
52 students. There’s always an English speaker on hand, and

Calle 54
51 57

Calle
42
49 Calle 51 8 sometimes a speaker of Italian or French.
30 34
Calle 53 Travel Agencies
3 3 Nómadas Travel (%948-1187; www.nomadastravel
Calle 45 44 15 31
55A
Parque .com.mx; Prolongación Paseo de Montejo No 370, Colonia
Santa
73 Lucía
28
Benito Juárez Norte) It’s out of the way in the north of
62 13 48 47
72 town, but it books flights and offers services for student
71
60 83 travelers.
Parque de 46
Iglesia de 65 38 Calle 55
Santiago 32 67
Santiago
54 39 DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
Calle 59 29 75 58
To Parque
Centenario (300m);
10
Gas Station 70 77
Parque de
Calle 57 Guard against pickpockets, bag snatchers and
5 79 18
Zoo (300m)
55 Congreso la Madre 36 bag slashers in the town’s markets and when

A
21 24

Calle 50
4 2
4 you’re in any crowded area. Outright mug-
56 82

52
Parque
74 Hidalgo Parque gings are very rare. Much more scary are the

Calle
63 Calle 59
de La 22
61 buses that travel at breakneck speed along the
A

17 Mejorada
33
Calle 66

20
14 4
narrow streets; sidewalks are often narrow
78
Plaza 19 and crowded.
70

27 Grande Calle 61
43
Hawkers are annoying but generally harm-
Calle

Iglesia 50
Calle 68

16
Calle 66

La Monjas To Tixkokob (30km);

35 23 Mayapán (48km); less. Mérida’s Policía Turística (Tourist Police;%925-
Calle 64

To Av Itzáes (200m); Chichén Itzá (117km);

1
Hospital O'Horán (500m) 64 Valladolid (160km); 2555 ext 260) wear brown-and-white uniforms

50
6
Calle 62

Cancún (320km)

8
Calle
Calle 63 and are your best bet if you’ve been robbed;
Calle 60

4
12 11
Calle 58

Calle
7
5 5 during the day you can almost always find an
Calle 56

41
69
Calle 54

officer at the Palacio de Gobierno or elsewhere

Iglesia Nuestra
87 76 Calle 65 on the Plaza Grande.
Señora de la 25
53 Candelaria
89 SIGHTS
A

88
A

To Airport (10km);
Calle 56

Uxmal (78km); Calle 67

Plaza Grande
Calle 5

Campeche (175km) Mercado

37 Municipal 40
Lucas de ‘El Centro’ is one of the nicest plazas in
80 Gálvez
3 Calle 69 86 Calle 68
Mexico. Huge laurel trees shade the park’s
81 90 Parque 67 85
de San benches and wide sidewalks, and it is sur-
Juan Iglesia de
6 San Juan 6 rounded by a bustle of pedestrians who shop
Calle
or sip coffee at the many open-air cafés. It
Calle 71 69
was the religious and social center of ancient
To Hacienda Yaxocopoil (33km); T’ho; under the Spanish it was the Plaza
Hamacas El Aguacate (50km)
de Armas, the parade ground, laid out by
 154 M É R I D A • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M É R I D A • • S i g h t s 155

INFORMATION Teatro Peón Contreras...........(see 75) Panificadora Montejo............... 64 C5 AROUND THE CATHEDRAL Mercado Municipal Lucas de Gálvez &
Banamex.................................... 1 C5 Turitransmérida........................ 28 D3 Pop Cafetería............................ 65 C4 South of the cathedral, housed in the former Museo de la Ciudad
Banamex ATM........................... 2 D4 Universidad de Yucatán............ 29 C4 Restaurant Kantún.....................66 B1
Banamex ATM............................ 3 A6 Restaurante Pórtico del
archbishop’s palace, is the Museo de Arte Mérida’s main market, Mercado Municipal
Bancomer................................... 4 D4 SLEEPING Peregrino.............................. 67 C4 Contemporáneo (Macay; %928-3236; Calle 60 btwn Calles Lucas de Gálvez (Municipal Market; cnr Calles 56A &
Bancomer ATM.......................... 5 C4 Alvarez Family Guest Super Bodega........................... 68 D6 61 & 63; admission free; h10am-6pm Sun-Thu, 10am-8pm 67), is an ever-evolving mass of commerce,
Bancomer ATM.......................... 6 C5 House...................................30 C3 Supermarkets........................... 69 D5 Fri & Sat). This attractive museum holds per-
Central Cambiaria....................... 7 C5 Casa Ana B&B...........................31 E3
with stalls selling everything from panu-
Centro de Idiomas del Sureste Casa Mexilio.............................32 B4 DRINKING manent exhibits of Yucatán’s most famous chos (a fried tortilla stuffed with beans and
(CIS)........................................8 E3 Gran Hotel............................... 33 C4 El Hoyo..................................... 70 C4 painters and sculptors, as well as revolving topped with meat and veggies) to ponchos.
City Tourist Office..................(see 27) Hostal del Pelegrino.................. 34 D3 Jugos California......................(see 64) exhibits by local craftspeople. The surrounding streets are all part of the
Dutch Consulate.........................9 C2 Hostel Zocalo............................ 35 C5 KY60........................................ 71 C3
HSBC........................................ 10 A4 Hotel Aragón............................36 E4
Casa de Montejo (Palacio de Montejo; h9am-4pm large market district. This is a great place
HSBC........................................ 11 C5 Hotel Casa Becil........................ 37 A6 ENTERTAINMENT Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) is on the south side of the to stop for lunch as you tour the city, but
HSBC........................................ 12 C5 Hotel Casa del Balam................ 38 C4 Caribbean Blue......................... 72 C3 Plaza Grande and dates from 1549. It origi- watch for pickpockets, purse snatchers and
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
Lavandería La Fe.......................13 B3 Hotel Colonial........................... 39 C4 Centro Cultural Olimpio.........(see 20) nally housed soldiers but was soon converted
Librería Dante........................... 14 C4 Hotel del Mayab.......................40 E6 Cines Rex................................. 73 A3
bag slashers.
Librería Dante.........................(see 79) Hotel Dolores Alba................... 41 D5 Teatro Mérida.......................... 74 C4 into a mansion that served members of the The Museo de la Cuidad (City Museum;%923-6869;
Main Post Office.......................15 E3 Hotel Hacienda Mérida.............42 C3 Teatro Peón Contreras.............. 75 C4 Montejo family until 1970. Today it houses a Calle 56 btwn Calles 65 & 67; admission free; h9am-8pm
Money Exchange...................... 16 C5 Hotel Los Arcos.........................43 B5 Banamex bank, and you can enter and look Tue-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat & Sun) is housed in the old
Money Marketing...................(see 33) Hotel Maison Lafitte.................44 C3 SHOPPING
Postal Service Booth................(see 81) Hotel Medio Mundo.................45 B3 Artesanías Bazar García
around during bank hours. At other times post office and offers a great reprieve from
State Tourist Office.................. 17 C4 Hotel Montejo.......................... 46 C4 Rejón.................................... 76 C5 content yourself with a close look at the the hustle, honks and exhaust of this mar-
Tourist Information Booth......(see 81) Hotel Santa Lucía......................47 C3 Camiseria Canul....................... 77 C4 façade, where triumphant conquistadors with ket neighborhood. There are exhibits trac-
Tourist Information Center....... 18 C4 Hotel Trinidad...........................48 C3 Casa de las Artesanías...............78 B4 halberds hold their feet on the necks of generic
Hotel Trinidad Galería...............49 C3 Miniaturas................................ 79 C4
ing back the city’s history to pre-conquest
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Hotel y Restaurant San José......50 B5
barbarians (though they’re not Maya, the as- days up through the henequen belle époque
Casa de Montejo......................(see 1) Los Arcos Bed & Breakfast.........51 B3 TRANSPORT sociation is inescapable). Typical of the sym- and into the 20th century (for more on
Catedral de San Ildefonso......... 19 C4 Nómadas Youth Hostel.............52 C3 Airport Bus Stop....................... 80 A6 bolism in colonial statuary, the vanquished henequen, see boxed text, p181).
Centro Cultural Olimpio........... 20 C4 Posada del Ángel...................... 53 A5 Avis........................................(see 83)
Iglesia de Jesús......................... 21 C4 Budget....................................(see 83)
are rendered much smaller than the victors;
Iglesia La Mejorada...................22 E4 EATING CAME Bus Terminal.................. 81 A6 works on various churches throughout the Calle 60
Museo de Arte Alberto's Continental Patio....... 54 B4 City Buses for Paseo de region feature big priests towering over or in A block north of the Plaza Grande, be-
Contemporáneo................... 23 C5 Amaro...................................... 55 C4 Montejo............................... 82 C4 front of little Indians. Also gazing across the yond shady Parque Hidalgo, rises the 17th-
Museo de Arte Popular de El Trapiche................................ 56 C4 Hertz........................................ 83 C3
Yucatán................................24 E4 Fe y Esperanza..........................57 C3 Mexicana..................................84 D1
plaza from the façade are busts of Montejo the century Iglesia de Jesús, also called Iglesia
Museo de la Ciudad................. 25 D5 Il Caffé Italiano......................... 58 C4 Noreste Bus Terminal................85 E6 Elder, his wife and his daughter. de la Tercera Orden. Built by the Jesuits in
Museo Regional de Antropología La Casa del Cheesecake............59 B2 Parque de San Juan...................86 B6 Across the square from the cathedral 1618, it is the sole surviving edifice from a
(Palacio Cantón)...................26 D1 La Flor de Santiago...................60 A3 Progreso Bus Terminal.............. 87 C5 is Mérida’s Palacio Municipal (City Hall).
Nómadas Youth Hostel...........(see 52) Main Street.............................. 61 C4 Shared Taxis to Progreso.......... 88 C5
complex of buildings that once filled the en-
Palacio de Gobierno................(see 17) Mercado Municipal No 2.......... 62 A3 Shared Taxis to Valladolid......... 89 D5 Originally built in 1542, it was twice re- tire city block.
Palacio Municipal...................... 27 C5 Pane e Vino.............................. 63 C4 Terminal de Segunda Clase....... 90 A6 furbished, in the 1730s and the 1850s. North of the church is the enormous
Adjoining it is the Centro Cultural Olimpo, bulk of the Teatro Peón Contreras (cnr Calles 60 &
Francisco de Montejo (the Younger). A cer- Francisco de Montejo at T’ho (de Montejo Mérida’s municipal cultural center. Attempts 57; hvisitors 9-6pm Tue-Sat), built between 1900
emony is held daily marking the raising and and Xiú jointly defeated the Cocomes; Xiú to create a modern exterior for the building and 1908, during Mérida’s henequen heyday.
lowering of the Mexican flag. On Sunday converted to Christianity, and his descend- were halted by government order, to pre- It boasts a main staircase of Carrara marble,
hundreds of Méridanos take their paseo ants still live in Mérida). serve the colonial character of the plaza. The a dome with faded frescoes by Italian artists,
(stroll) here, and there’s a cultural exhibit – In the small chapel to the left of the altar ultramodern interior serves as a venue for and various paintings and murals through-
normally dance or live music – nearly is Mérida’s most famous religious artifact, music and dance performances (see p163), out the building.
every night. a statue called Cristo de las Ampollas (Christ as well as other exhibitions. Schedules for Across Calle 60 from the theater is the
of the Blisters). Local legend says the statue performances and frequent film showings main building of the Universidad de Yucatán.
CATEDRAL DE SAN ILDEFONSO was carved from a tree that was hit by light- are posted outside. The modern university was established
On the plaza’s east side, on the site of a ning and burned for an entire night without On the north side of the plaza, the Palacio in the 19th century by Governor Felipe
former Maya temple, is Mérida’s hulking, charring. It is also said to be the only object de Gobierno (admission free; h8am-10pm) houses Carrillo Puerto and General Manuel
severe cathedral (h6am-noon & 4-7pm), begun to have survived the fiery destruction of the the state of Yucatán’s executive government Cepeda Peraza.
in 1561 and completed in 1598. Some of church in the town of Ichmul (though it was offices (and one of its tourist information A block north of the university is pretty
the stone from the Maya temple was used blackened and blistered from the heat). The centers). It was built in 1892 on the site of little Parque Santa Lucía (cnr Calles 60 & 55), with
in its construction. The massive crucifix be- statue was moved to the Mérida cathedral the palace of the colonial governors. Be sure arcades on the north and west sides. When
hind the altar is Cristo de la Unidad (Christ of in 1645. to have a look inside at the murals painted Mérida was a lot smaller, this was where
Unity), a symbol of reconciliation between Other than these items, the cathedral’s by local artist Fernando Castro Pacheco. travelers would get on or off the stage-
those of Spanish and Maya heritage. To the interior is largely plain, its rich decoration Completed in 1978, they were 25 years in coaches that linked towns and villages with
right over the south door is a painting of having been stripped away by angry peasants the making and portray a symbolic his- the provincial capital. The Bazar de Artesanías,
Tutul Xiú, cacique (indigenous chief) of the at the height of anticlerical fervor during the tory of the Maya and their interaction with the local handicrafts market, is held here at
town of Maní, paying his respects to his ally Mexican Revolution. the Spaniards. 11am on Sunday.
 156 M É R I D A • • S i g h t s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M É R I D A • • C o u r s e s 157

honestly, you’re better off heading to any Tours depart at 9.30am from in front of the
DAY-TRIPPER artisan market in the countryside – you’ll Palacio Municipal.
Mérida is a great base for day trips into the countryside. By staying in local communities you’ll see the same style of work, and it won’t Transportadora Turística Carnaval (% 927-
help create a more sustainable model for tourism, encouraging local businesses and providing an cost you a single peso, unless you want to 6119) conducts two-hour guided tours of
incentive for folks to reinvest in their communities, traditions and culture. That said, it’s sometimes buy something. The upstairs exhibits don’t Mérida in English and Spanish on its Paseo
nice to return to the sophistication and comfort of the capital. Here are some worthwhile trips: have any explanatory signs yet, but they Turístico bus (M$75) departing from Parque
give you an idea of how locals embroi- Santa Lucía (on the corner of Calles 55 and
Cuzamá Three amazing cenotes (limestone sinkholes) accessed by horse-drawn cart (p175).
der huipiles, carve ceremonial masks and 60) at 10am, 1pm, 4pm and 7pm Monday to
The cost for a group of four is around M$150.
weave hammocks. Saturday, and 10am and 1pm Sunday. You
Ruta Puuc Ruin yourself by visiting all five sites (including megadraw Uxmal) in one day Across the plaza from the museum is Iglesia can buy your tickets ahead of time at nearby
(p172). Trip lasts about eight hours and costs around M$330 per person. Extend your trip by La Mejorada, a large 17th-century church. The Hotel Santa Lucía, among other places.
visiting Mayapán (p174) and the Loltún caves (p174). building just north of it was a monastery
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
Celestún Head out early to catch a mangrove birding tour (p180). It’s about M$228 per (El Convento de La Mejorada) until the late Regional Tours
person, including the boat trip. Bring a bunch of friends to save money! For a bit more 19th century. It now houses an architectural Turitransmérida (%928-1871; www.turitransmerida
dough, you can visit the ruined haciendas along the way. school, but visitors are sometimes allowed to .com.mx; cnr Calles 55 & 58) is one of the largest of
view the grounds. the many agencies offering group tours to
Dzibilchaltún & Progreso Visit the ruins and cenote for about M$80 (p182) or extend your
trip for an afternoon of beach time in Progreso (p183). sites around Mérida, including Celestún,
COURSES Chichén Iztá, the Ruta Puuc and Izamal.
Put the guidebook down Close this book for a day and find adventure in the spirited offbeat The Centro de Idiomas del Sureste (CIS;%923-
towns and wilderness areas of Yucatán’s backroads (for our tips, see boxed text, p175). Prices cost M$300 to M$450.
0954; www.cisyucatan.com.mx; Calle 52 No 455 btwn Calles The owners of reputable Ecoturismo Yucatán
49 & 51) offers Spanish-language courses. You (%920-2772; www.ecoyuc.com.mx; Calle 3 No 235) are
can also often find a private tutor through
Paseo de Montejo The museum covers the peninsula’s his-
your hostel.
passionate about both sharing and pro-
Paseo de Montejo, which runs parallel to tory since the age of mastodons. Exhibits on tecting the state’s natural treasures. Trips
Calles 56 and 58, was an attempt by Mérida’s Maya culture include explanations (many in focus on archaeology, birding, natural his-
19th-century city planners to create a wide Spanish only) of such cosmetic practices as TOURS tory, biking and kayaking. One-day excur-
boulevard similar to the Paseo de la Reforma forehead-flattening (done to beautify babies) City Tours sions cost around M$1200; eight-day jungle
in Mexico City or the Champs Élysées in Paris. causing eyes to cross, and sharpening teeth The city tourist office (%942-0000 ext 80119; Calle tours M$20,150.
Though more modest than its predecessors, and implanting them with tiny jewels. If you 62 on Plaza Grande) offers free daily guided walk- Many hotels will book these tours, as will
the Paseo de Montejo is still a beautiful swath plan to visit archaeological sites near Mérida, ing tours of the historic center (sometimes Nómadas Youth Hostel (%/fax 924-5223; www.nomadas
of green, relatively open space in an urban con- you can study the exhibits here – some with in English), focusing on Plaza Grande. travel.com; Calle 62 No 433), which also arranges
glomeration of stone and concrete. There are plans and photographs – covering the great
rotating sculpture exhibits along the paseo. Maya cities of Mayapán, Uxmal and Chichén
Europe’s architectural and social influence Itzá, as well as lesser-known sites such as the SIGNS O’ THE TIMES
can be seen along the paseo in the fine man- marvelous Ek’ Balam. There’s also a good Visitors to Mérida will notice small, artistic plaques on the corners of some buildings beside major
sions built by wealthy families around the end bookstore with many archaeological titles. intersections. The ceramic plaques are located about 3m above the sidewalk – about where you’d
of the 19th century. The greatest concentra- expect to see a street sign if signposts weren’t used.
tions of surviving mansions are north of Calle Parque Centenario Indeed the plaques, which feature paintings of people, animals and other subjects with their
37, and on the first block of Avenida Colón About 12 blocks west of the Plaza Grande lies Spanish names underneath, are old-fashioned Mérida street signs. For example, on the building
west of Paseo de Montejo. the large, verdant Parque Centenario (admission free; housing a Burger King (cnr Calles 59 & 60), you’ll see a painted figure of a dog and, just below
h6am-6pm Tue-Sun), bordered by Avenida Itzáes, it, the words el perro (the dog).
Museo Regional de Antropología which leads to the airport and becomes the Signs like this one were placed on corner buildings during colonial days by conquistadors
The massive Palacio Cantón houses the Museo highway to Campeche. The park’s zoo (admis- trying to teach the native populace some Spanish. The signs reflected the streets’ local names.
Regional de Antropología (Regional Anthropology Museum sion free; h6am-6pm Tue-Sun) features the fauna of Unfortunately, all of the original plaques disappeared over time; the several dozen you see today
of the Yucatán;%923-0557; cnr Paseo de Montejo & Calle Yucatán, as well as some exotic species. To get were affixed to buildings relatively recently by city officials hoping to increase tourism and main-
43; admission M$37; h8am-8pm Tue-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun). there, take a bus west along Calle 61 or 65. tain a piece of history. Although new, the plaques are said to closely resemble the originals, and
Construction of the mansion lasted from 1909 their locations are supposedly historically accurate.
to 1911, and its owner, General Francisco Museo de Arte Popular de Yucatán A sign on the corner of Calles 65 and 60, for example, shows an old lady. The sign was posted
Cantón Rosado (1833–1917), lived here for The Museo de Arte Popular de Yucatán (Yucatecan at that particular location because local people knew the street as ‘the old lady’s street’ on ac-
only six years before his death. The palacio’s Museum of Popular Art; cnr Calle 50A & Calle 57 in the count of an elderly woman who had once worked in a bakery near the corner.
splendor and pretension make it a fitting Casa Molina; admission M$30; h9:30am-4:30pm Tue-Sat, Likewise, the ‘two faces’ sign found at the junction of Calles 65 and 58 has its origin in a liar
symbol of the grand aspirations of Mérida’s 9am-2pm Sun) is six blocks east of the Plaza who lived nearby. The ‘headless man’ street (look for the sign on the corner of Calles 67 and
elite during the last years of the porfiriato, the Grande in a building built in 1906. There’s 60) took its name from a man who had the misfortune of being under a window when it broke
period from 1876 to 1911 when Porfirio Díaz a small rotating exhibit downstairs that and was beheaded by a falling piece of glass.
held despotic sway over Mexico. features pop art from around Mexico, but
 158 M É R I D A • • Fe s t i v a l s & E v e n t s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels M É R I D A • • S l e e p i n g 159

a variety of other tours, from DIY trips in offered, but don’t be cruel). If you’re arriv- elbow grease and a bit of heavy detergent staff nice showers, spotless baths and laundry. The
your rented car or on public transportation ing at the CAME bus terminal, check at the manage to keep the place spick-and-span. guesthouse is full of beautiful antiques, in-
(with written instructions) to nearly all- tourist information booth for flyers offering The 30 good-sized rooms are all set well off cluding an old cylinder-style gramophone
inclusive (some meals) trips in private buses. hotel discounts. the street. It offers value and is a favorite with player, which Enrique, the accommodating
Many tours include lodging at other hostels visiting Mennonites. owner, may demonstrate on request.
as well as insurance. Nómadas will help to Budget Hotel Casa Becil (% 924-6764; hotelcasabecil
match up travelers into groups for sharing Rooms in this category have fans unless @yahoo.com.mx; Calle 67 No 550C btwn Calles 66 & 68; s/d/tr Midrange
cars and costs. otherwise noted; spending the extra money M$180/220/260, d with air-con M$300-330; a) Almost a Compared with many parts of the peninsula,
ATS buses conducts a day tour to Uxmal, for air-con is well worth it in the hotter hostel but not quite, the Casa Becil’s friendly many of Mérida’s midrange places provide
Kabah and the Ruta Puuc sites, beginning months. Many dirt-cheap places don’t have owner calls it a ‘BBC,’ for breakfast, bed and surprising levels of comfort for the price.
from the Terminal de Segunda Clase in toilet seats. coffee. It offers very inexpensive, clean rooms Hotel Trinidad (%923-2033; www.hotelestrinidad
Mérida at 8am. See p170 for details. oNómadas Youth Hostel (%/fax 924-5223; with a fully equipped kitchen downstairs, an .com; Calle 62 No 464 btwn Calles 55 & 57; d M$400; a)
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
www.nomadastravel.com; Calle 62 No 433 at Calle 51; dm intimate courtyard, a sun deck, beautiful tiled Occupies a colonial house and a newer wing,
M$85, s or d with/without bathroom M$240/200; pi) floors, left-luggage service, book exchange, and has a variety of rooms, each with its own
FESTIVALS & EVENTS This is Mérida’s Backpacker’s Central, tours and more. The rooms are breezy, with- unique décor and charm. Some rooms have
Anniversary of the Universidad de Yucatán For and the best hostel in the city. There are out a hint of stuffiness, and the owner speaks good kitchenettes, most have air-con, and
most of February the Universidad de Yucatán celebrates mixed and women’s dorms, as well as pri- excellent English. there’s even a rooftop Jacuzzi. It has great
its anniversary with free performances by the Ballet vate rooms. All rates include breakfast, and Hotel del Mayab (%928-5174; Calle 50 No 536A btwn common areas (including two courtyards, one
Folklórico, concerts of Afro-Cuban music and son (Mexican guests have use of a fully equipped kitchen Calles 65 & 67; s/d with fan M$250/270, with air-con M$350/ with a lovely garden), a billiard table, a book
folk music that blends elements of indigenous, Spanish with fridge and purified water, 24-hour hot 400;aps) This place is clean and low-key, exchange, a small café, 24-hour tea, luggage
and African musical styles), and other manifestations of showers, internet and hand-laundry facilities. and offers off-street parking. Streetside rooms storage, and guests have use of the pool at
Yucatán’s cultural roots. It even has free salsa classes and it’s plan- can be noisy, but interior rooms are quiet, and the nearby Hotel Trinidad Galería. All rates
Carnaval Prior to Lent, in February or March, and ning on building a pool out back. Luggage the hotel has a large swimming pool. include continental breakfast.
features colorful costumes and nonstop festivities. It’s lockers are free while you stay, and M$15 a Posada del Ángel (%923-2754; Calle 67 No 535 btwn Hotel Santa Lucía (%/fax 928-2672, in USA 1-800-
celebrated with greater vigor in Mérida than anywhere day while you travel. Bring mosquito repel- Calles 66 & 68; s/d/tr/q with fan M$200/270/340/410, with 560-2445; [email protected]; Calle 55 No 508 btwn
else in Yucatán state. lent and earplugs, as the front rooms can air-con M$260/340/420/550; ap) A neocolonial Calles 60 & 62; s/d/tr M$400/450/500; aps) Across
Festival de Trova Yucateca This festival celebrates get traffic noise. hotel three blocks northeast of the CAME from the park of the same name, this hotel
trovas, romantic ballads. For more on trovas, see p45. Held Hostel Zocalo (%924-5223; Calle 63 No 508; dm bus terminal, it offers rooms with good beds is clean, secure and popular, and has an at-
in March. M$100, s/d M$140/230; i) Great location and and crisp, clean sheets; it’s quieter here than tractive lobby. The pool is small but clean,
Semana Santa (Holy Week) A major celebration in a beautiful old colonial building make this at most other hotels in the area. and the rooms have TV and phone. Rates
Mérida over Easter week. The main feature of the celebra- hostel unique. Its owners are lovingly restor- Hotel Dolores Alba (%928-5650; fax 928-3163; www include breakfast. Someone here really likes
tions is the city’s Passion Plays. ing it by hand. It has firm beds and a sim- .doloresalba.com; Calle 63 btwn Calles 52 & 54; r without air-con potted plants.
Between September 22 and October 14, gremios (guilds or ple breakfast is included. The hosts offer a M$260, d with air-con M$420-490; asp) Rooms Hotel Trinidad Galería (%923-2463; www.hoteles
unions) venerate the Cristo de las Ampollas (Christ of the wealth of information about the area. are on three floors (with an elevator) around trinidad.com; Calle 60 No 456 near Calle 51; r with/without
Blisters) statue in the cathedral with processions. Hostal del Peregrino (%924-5491; www.hostaldel two large courtyards. Those in the new, mod- air-con M$400/300, ste M$450-550; asp) It’s like
Exposición de Altares de los Muertos A big religious peregrino.com; Calle 51 No 488; dm M$130, d M$400) On a ern wing are quite large, with good beds and walking into the ‘General’s Labyrinth’ or a
tradition. Throughout Mexico families prepare shrines to quiet street, it’s earthy, homey and tasteful. TV, and face the lovely pool. The hotel has Salvador Dali Dream. Odd – at times freakish –
welcome the spirits of loved ones back to earth. Many For the price, you’re probably better off at secure parking and is quiet, well managed artwork and statuary gather dust in every cor-
Maya prepare elaborate dinners outside their homes, and Nómadas, but if you’re looking to get away and friendly. ner of this rambling hotel. You will either love
Mérida observes the occasion with festivities and displays from the groovy-groupie backpacker scene, oCasa Ana B&B (%924-0005; www.casaana this wacky place or find it disquieting. The
in the town center from 11am on November 1 until 11am this may be the place for you. Breakfast .com; Calle 52 No 469 btwn Calles 53 & 51; r M$300-450; rooms vary considerably: some are dark and
the next day. is included in the price, and it offers low- as) Though out of the way, Casa Ana musty, while others offer well-vented bath-
season discounts and wi-fi. is an intimate escape and the best budget rooms with good mosquito screens; all have
SLEEPING Hotel Los Arcos (%924-9728; Calle 63 btwn Calles B&B in town. It features a small natural- original artwork and interesting posted rules,
From about December 15 to January 6, and 62 & 64; s/d M$170/230; pa) Peach pink with bottom pool and a cozy overgrown gar- which include: ‘All deaths will be reported to
during Semana Santa (Easter week), many frosting-cake colors, this clean hotel offers den complete with Cuban tobacco plants the authorities.’ The art is the main reason
midrange and top-end hotels raise their prices pretty good value for budget hunters. The (memories of home for the Cuban owners, to come here, a refreshing change from the
by 10% to 20%. These times and during July slightly dark rooms have OK bathrooms and no doubt). The rooms are spotless, with clean usual framed poster. Even if you don’t stay,
and August (which also see price increases at beds, good screens and nice décor. Some sheets, Mexican hammocks and (whew) nice it’s worth popping your head in.
some places) tend to be the busiest; it’s wise rooms have air-con. mosquito screens. Hotel Aragón (%/fax 924-0242; www.hotelaragon
to book ahead. Rates quoted in the following Hotel y Restaurant San José (%928-6657; san Alvarez Family Guest House (%924-3060; casa .com; Calle 57 No 474 btwn Calles 52 & 54; s/d M$450/480;
listings are for the low season. [email protected]; Calle 63 btwn Calles 62 & 64; s/d/tr [email protected]; Calle 62 No 448 btwn Calles 51 & 53; asp) The common areas of this hotel
When business is slow many places will M$140/160/180, with air-con M$260/280/300; a) The s/d M$350/400, d with air-con M$500; a) Impeccably are great, with a large courtyard and a narrow
offer discounts, some without being asked (it walls are crumbling in this fading hotel 30m clean and in a family’s home, this ‘hostel plus’ pool along one side. If only it followed the
never hurts to ask for a descuento if it’s not west of the Plaza Grande, but with a lot of offers a friendly, one-of-the-family ambience, same theme in the modern, rather stagnant
 160 M É R I D A • • E a t i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com M É R I D A • • E a t i n g 161

rooms. Still the room rates include a conti- Hotel Colonial (%923-6444; fax 928-3961; www begun adding a service charge (usually 10%) chicken tamales or turkey soup. A Saturday
nental breakfast and purified water, making .hotelcolonial.com.mx; Calle 62 No 476 btwn Calles 57 & 59; to the bill. or Sunday breakfast buffet costs M$60. It’s all
this a solid value option. d/tr M$760/850; as) The Colonial features good, and the friendly, no-nonsense waiters
Hotel Montejo (%928-0390; fax 924-2692; www 73 comfortable rooms in a fairly modern Budget are obliging.
.hotelmontejo.com; Calle 57 btwn Calles 62 & 64; s/d/tr with air- building with a small clover-shaped pool and oMercado Municipal Lucas de Gálvez (cnr Calles La Casa del Cheesecake (cnr Calle 47 & 66; cake slice
con $440/510/560; a) This is an eclectic, one-of- perhaps Mexico’s smallest bar. ‘Promocion’ 56A & 67) Mérida’s least-expensive eateries are M$15-20; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) This veri-
a-kind hotel with a central courtyard loaded (promotion) rates can drop the prices by up in the Mercado Municipal Lucas de Gálvez; table institution offers cheesecakes, whole or
with 400-year-old stone columns. Its big, to M$150. It’s recently renovated a few rooms; most are open from early morning until early by the slice, in an array of funky flavors that
clean rooms with classic colonial doors and ask for a newer room. evening. Upstairs joints have tables and chairs may include peach or even Kahlua.
tiled bathrooms are distributed around the oLos Arcos Bed & Breakfast (%928-0214; and more varied menus; main-course platters El Trapiche (%928-1231; Calle 62 No 491 btwn 59 &
courtyard on two floors. It’s a bit overpriced www.losarcosmerida.com; Calle 66 btwn Calles 49 & 53; s/d of beef, fish or chicken go for as little as M$12. 61; mains M$26-50; h8am-midnight) A great place
for what you get. M$850/950; is) Certainly not for minimalists – Look for recados (spice pastes). Downstairs close to El Centro, El Trapiche has cheap
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
Hotel Medio Mundo (%/fax 924-5472; www.hotel there’s art on every wall and in every corner – at the north end are some cheap taquerías Mexican eats in a casual environment that
mediomundo.com; Calle 55 No 533 btwn Calles 64 & 66; d Los Arcos is a lovely, gay-friendly B&B with (taco joints), where you sit on a stool at a includes passing visits by just about every
with fan M$600, r/ste with air-con M$750; as) This two guestrooms at the end of a drop-dead- narrow counter, while near the south end peddler around. As you eat, you can stock up
former private residence has been completely gorgeous garden and pool area. Parrots, chi- are coctelerías (seafood shacks, specializing on Cuban cigars or Chiapas belts or jewelry.
remodeled and painted in lovely colors. Its huahuas, a Jacuzzi and palm trees add to the in shellfish cocktails) serving shrimp, octopus If you don’t want to buy anything and just
12 ample, simply furnished rooms have décor. Rooms have an eclectic assortment of and conch cocktails, as well as ceviche starting want to eat, choose a table in the back near
super-comfortable beds, tiled floors, beauti- art and antiques, excellent beds and bath- at around M$20. the fountain. Pitchers of agua de melon (can-
ful tiled sinks, great bathrooms and plenty of rooms, and come stocked with CD players, Mercado Municipal No 2 (Calle 57) Numero Dos is taloupe blended with water and a touch of
natural light. One of the two courtyards has bathrobes and sarongs. All guests have access a less crowded, but still cheap and good mar- sugar) cost only M$45.
a small swimming pool, the other a fountain. to the internet and a huge CD library. Rates ket on the north side of Parque de Santiago, A few blocks east of the Plaza Grande are
The well-traveled, charming hosts prepare include a full, hot breakfast. packed with juice stalls, loncherías (simple side-by-side supermarkets (Calle 56 btwn Calles 63 &
large, delicious ‘Continental Plus’ breakfasts restaurants often only open for lunch) and 65) as well as a branch of Super Bodega (cnr Calles 67
(M$80) and make their guests feel like part Top End even a cheap ice-cream place. & 54A), a market–department store chain.
of the family. During nonpeak times, walk-in rates may be Fe y Esperanza (%241-0995; Calle 60 No 452 cnr Calle Both markets are great spots to pick up
Casa Mexilio (%/fax 928-2505, in USA 800-538-6802; cheaper than booking in advance. 51; tacos & tortas M$8-28; h7:30am-5:30pm Mon-Sat) ingredients for a sumptuous DIY dinner or
www.casamexilio.com; Calle 68 No 495 btwn Calles 57 & 59; Hotel Casa del Balam (%924-2150, in USA or Mexico This popular hole-in-the-wall offers simple picnic lunch.
r M$550-850, ste M$1200; asp) It occupies a 800-624-8451; fax 924-5011; www.casabalam.com; Calle 60 snacks like tacos and tortas (sandwich in a For good, cheap breakfasts, try a selec-
well-preserved, historic house with a maze of No 488; d M$1200; as) This place is centrally roll). High spenders can go upscale with a set tion of panes dulce (sweet rolls and breads)
quiet, beautifully appointed rooms (some with located and has a great pool and large, quiet lunch (M$28) with your choice of meat, rice, from one of Mérida’s several bakeries, such
fan, some air-con), a small bar and a postage- colonial-style rooms. It often offers hefty dis- beans, salad and agua fresca fruit juice. The as Panificadora Montejo (Calle 62) on the corner of
stamp-sized pool with Jacuzzi. All room rates counts during quiet times. service is super-friendly. the main plaza. A full bag of goodies usually
include a full breakfast in the period dining Hotel Hacienda Mérida (%924-4363; www.hotel La Flor de Santiago (%928-5591; Calle 70 btwn Calles costs no more than M$25.
room, and the hotel serves dinner as well. haciendamerida.com; Calle 62 btwn Calles 51 & 53; r M$1500- 57 & 59; mains $30-60; h7am-11pm) Chiapas coffee
Hotel Maison Lafitte (%928-1243; www.maison 1750; as) A new entrant in the upscale bou- is served in incongruous, chipped Willow- Midrange
lafitte.com.mx; Calle 60 No 472; d/tr M$750/800;s) The tique category, the Hacienda is lovely by night ware cups in this cafeteria-style eatery. The Il Caffé Italiano (%928-0093; Calle 57A btwn Calles 58 &
Maison Lafitte offers a full buffet breakfast in with illuminated columns leading you past the guacamole is near perfect, and there is a wide 60; mains M$75-150; h8am-midnight Mon-Sat) It’s an
its rates, has friendly staff and a nice location – pool to your classically styled chambers. By selection of Mexican comfort foods, such as Italian-style café with nice espressos, good
central but still away from it all. The build- day you can see that the hotel still needs a bit
ing was once an old colonial house and has a of work to qualify for the hefty price tag. Still,
lush garden and a clean, heart-shaped pool. it beats staying in a heartless business hotel ASK A LOCAL: LAURA’S PICKS
The rooms are a bit bland, but the sit-down for most.
Hyatt Regency Mérida (%942-0202; fax 925-7002; Laura Alonzo Fuentes is a vegetarian who grew up in an affluent corner of Mérida. She now lives
showers are a fun luxury.
www.hyatt.com; Av Colón 344; d from M$1700; asp) in the US, but we caught up with her before she left to see where Mérida’s young professionals
Gran Hotel (%924-7730; fax 924-7622; www.granhotel
Not far from the Fiesta Americana Mérida (an- dine – all of these spots are outside the downtown area and offer good eats for carnos and vegos
demerida.com.mx; Calle 60 No 496 btwn Calles 59 & 61; s/d
other good top-end bet), the 17-story Hyatt of- alike. Call for directions and reservations, or make your own top five.
M$710/850, tr & q M$1350; a) This was indeed a
grand hotel when built in 1901; it’s a bit faded fers some of Mérida’s chichiest hotel digs, with 100% Natural (%948-4254) A great spot for vegos, with fresh smoothies and homemade bread.
now but retains many elegant and delight- some 300 rooms, tennis courts, a gym and steam La Bologna (%926-2505) Italian class. As the great H Simpson might say ‘mmmm, bologna.’
ful decorative flourishes. The 28 rooms have bath, and a great pool with swim-up bar.
La Habichuela (%926-3626) Fancy modern takes on classic dishes.
period furnishings; some overlook Parque
Hidalgo. There’s no pool, making it a bit over- EATING La Tratto (%927-0434) Miami-style open-air dining.
priced, but who needs a pool when you’re As in other touristed areas of the Yucatán Trotters (%942-0202) For stylish international cuisine.
staying at the Gran? Peninsula, many restaurants in Mérida have
 162 M É R I D A • • D r i n k i n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M É R I D A • • E n t e r t a i n m e n t 163

mains and very interesting desserts: the straw- dining rooms (some with air-con) sur- ENTERTAINMENT band most nights. The crowd is fairly young,
berries with balsamic vinegar and ice cream rounding a small courtyard in this upscale Mérida offers many folkloric and musi- with a mix of locals and visitors.
is something completely different. eatery. Yucatecan dishes such as pollo pibil cal events in parks and historic buildings, Take a taxi to the Prolongaciõn de
Pop Cafetería (%928-6163; Calle 57 btwn Calles 60 (chicken flavored with achiote sauce and put on by local performers of considerable Montejo, where you’ll have your choice
& 62; breakfast M$28-48, mains M$35-90; h7am-midnight wrapped in banana leaves) are its forte, but skill. Admission is free except as noted of bumping discos and uberchic lounges.
Mon-Sat, 8am-midnight Sun) There’s an Art Deco you’ll find many international dishes and a in the following reviews. Check with one Most charge admission. El Cielo (%944-5127;
bebop feel to this little cafeteria-style restau- broad range of seafood and steaks as well. of the tourist information offices to con- Prolongación de Montejo btwn Calle 25 & Av Campestre) is a
rant, which serves cheap breakfast combina- Mole poblano, a chocolate and chili sauce, is firm schedules and find out about special locals’ favorite, as is the nearby Slavia (%926-
tions and a good variety of Mexican dishes; try a house specialty, as is artery-clogging queso events; the website www.yucatantoday.com 6587; Prolongación de Montejo s/n).
the chicken in dark, rich mole (a handmade relleno (Dutch cheese stuffed with spiced offers monthly news and often highlights Mérida has several cinemas, most of
chocolate and chili sauce; M$45). ground beef). seasonal events. which show first-run Hollywood fare in
Main Street (%923-6850; Calle 60 btwn Calles 59 & 61; Alberto’s Continental Patio (% 928-5367; cnr Centro Cultural Olimpo (%924-0000 ext 80152; English, with Spanish subtitles (ask ‘¿inglés?’
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
breakfast M$50-80, mains M$60-140; h7am-11pm) On Calles 64 & 57; mains M$70-170, set dinners M$240-280; cnr Calles 62 & 61) Offers something nearly at the ticket office if you need to be sure),
the edge of Parque Hidalgo, this eatery serves h1-11pm Mon-Sat, 6-11pm Sun; v) Alberto’s offers every night, from films to concerts to as well as other foreign films and Mexican
generous, reasonably priced breakfasts, as well yet more colonial-courtyard (as well as in- art installations. offerings. Cinema tickets cost about M$45
as ample portions of pasta and other dishes, door) dining. The setting is extremely atmos- Caribbean Blue (%923-2279; Calle 60 btwn Calles for evening shows, M$25 for matinees. Try
including mediocre pizza. The outdoor tables pheric, chockablock with religious artifacts, 57 & 55; admission M$30; h10pm-3:30am) One of a the following:
offer prime people-watching opportunities. Maya ceramic figures and greenery. Middle cluster of bars on this block that has music Cines Rex (Calle 57 btwn Calles 70 & 72)
Amaro (%928-2451; www.restauranteamaro.com; Calle Eastern dishes such as hummus, babaga- and dancing, with a live nine-piece salsa Teatro Mérida (Calle 62 btwn Calles 59 & 61)
59 btwn Calles 60 & 62; mains M$55-100; h11am-1am or noush and tabbouleh are served with pita
11pm if it’s slow; v) A romantic dining spot, bread, and can be a welcome change from
especially at night, when there’s usually a duo Mexican food. The steaks, poultry and sea- YUCATECAN HAMMOCKS: THE ONLY WAY TO SLEEP
performing ballads. It’s set in the courtyard of food are also good, as is the service. Tipplers The fine strings of Yucatecan hammocks make them supremely comfortable. In the sticky heat
the house in which Andrés Quintana Roo – will appreciate the fine brandy selection. of a Yucatecan summer, most locals prefer sleeping in a hammock, where the air can circulate
poet, statesman and drafter of Mexico’s around them, rather than in a bed. Many inexpensive hotels used to have hammock hooks in
Declaration of Independence – was born in
1787. The service and food are good (but DRINKING the walls of all guestrooms; many still do.
It’s impossible not to find a beer or bar in Yucatecan hammocks are normally woven from strong nylon or cotton string and dyed in
check your bill carefully), and the menu various colors. There are also natural, undyed cotton versions. Some sellers will try to fob these
includes Yucatecan dishes and a variety of Mérida; if you’re really desperate, ask anyone
on the street to point the way to a nearby off as henequen (also called sisal) or jute, telling you it’s much more durable (and valuable) than
vegetarian plates, as well as some continental cotton, and even that it repels mosquitoes. Don’t be taken in; real henequen hammocks are very
dishes, crêpes and pizzas. watering hole. Most of the restaurants listed
earlier serve drinks or have their own bars. rough and not something you’d want near your skin. Silk hammocks are no longer made, but a
Pane e Vino (%928-6228; Calle 62 btwn Calles 59 & silk-rayon blend has a similar feel.
61; mains M$70-100; h6pm-midnight Tue-Sun; v) This KY60 (Calle 60 btwn Calles 55 & 57; free admission;
Hammocks come in several widths (each shop seems to have slightly different names and
Italian-run joint serves tasty antipasti and h9pm-3am) Surprisingly, despite the men- numbers for them), and though much is made of the quantity of pairs of end strings they pos-
salads (with olive oil and balsamic vinegar if wearing-construction-outfits Village People
sess, a better gauge of a hammock’s size and quality is its weight. The heavier the better. A
you wish), lasagna, fish, meat and a selection vibe, this is not a gay bar. It’s got good pool
sencilla (for one person) should be about 500g and cost around M$120. The doble (double size,
of respectable wines by the glass or bottle. tables and is popular with guys and gals,
big enough for a large man) is about 700g to 800g and costs roughly M$150 to M$200. Next
The star attractions are the fresh handmade gays and straights, locals and tourists, prob-
comes the matrimonial (queen size, big enough for two people to snuggle) at 1100g (M$220)
pasta dishes, which vary daily and usually ably because of its reasonably priced beers,
and familiar (king size, big enough for two people, a dog, a cat and a goldfish – but we doubt
include gnocchi, ravioli and fettuccine. which seem to be a universal attraction.
you’ll really be able to fit the whole family in it; up to about 1500g, M$270). De croché (very
Restaurante Kantún (%923-4493; Calle 45 btwn People not needing something alcoholic tightly woven) hammocks can take several weeks to produce and cost double or triple the
Calles 64 & 66; mains M$60-120; hnoon-7pm Tue-Sun) can try: prices given here.
The Kantún serves some of the best sea- Jugos California (%923-4142; Calle 63 No 502; juices Many stores can also sell mosquito netting for an additional M$150 or so. And before you leave,
food in town. Main dishes are all prepared US$1.10-2.50; h7am-10pm) On the corner next ask staff to show you how to fold it – only fishing line takes longer to untangle.
to order and delicately seasoned or sauced; to the bread shop Panificadora Montejo, You can save yourself a lot of trouble by shopping at a hammock store with a good reputa-
try the filete Normanda, a fillet stuffed with this cheery yellow-and-blue tiled place of- tion. Getting away from the heavily touristed areas helps. In Mérida, Hamacas El Aguacate
smoked oysters and topped with anchovies. fers great fresh juices and smoothies, served (%928-6469; cnr Calles 58 & 73) has quality hammocks and decent prices, and there’s absolutely no
There are a few meat offerings for nonfishy with friendly smiles. hard sell. In Quintana Roo, check out Puerto Morelos’ artisans market (p102), where high-quality
types. The service is friendly and attentive, El Hoyo (% 928-1531; Calle 62 No 487; coffees Tixkokob hammocks are sold.
if almost formal at times. US$1.60-2.50; h8am-11:30pm Mon-Sat) This is the Some of the best (and best-priced) hammocks are produced in prisons, but a less-depressing
best place for cheap espressos and lattes, excursion is to venture out to the village of Tixkokob, near Mérida, to watch hammocks being
Top End plus chessboards and books if you want to woven. The senora at Hamacas El Gallito (%999-996-5612; cnr Calles 21 & 14; h10am-8pm) is very
Restaurante Pórtico del Peregrino (%928-6163; Calle hang out. A small courtyard at the back has helpful, though she doesn’t speak English. A bus runs regularly from the Progreso bus terminal
57 btwn Calles 60 & 62; mains M$70-140; hnoon-midnight) beautiful tilework. The Nutella crêpe is a (Calle 62 No 524 btwn Calles 65 & 67) in Mérida.
There are several pleasant, traditional-style unique specialty.
 164 M É R I D A • • S h o p p i n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com M É R I D A • • G e t t i n g T h e re & A w a y 165

SHOPPING GETTING THERE & AWAY lines. Some lines offer round-trip tickets to of the hotel complex servicing guests of the luxury hotels
Mérida is a fine place for buying Yucatecan Air nearby towns that reduce the fare quite a bit. on Avenida Colón, north of the city center. ADO GL and
handicrafts. Purchases to consider include Mérida’s tiny but modern airport is a 10km, Following are some of the terminals, the bus Super Expresso services run between here and Cancún,
guayaberas (short-sleeved sports shirts) 20-minute ride southwest of the Plaza Grande lines operating from them and areas served. Campeche, Chetumal and Playa del Carmen.
and traditional Maya clothing, such as the off Hwy 180 (Avenida de los Itzáes). It has CAME bus terminal (%reservations 924-8391; Calle Noreste bus terminal (Calle 67 btwn Calles 50 & 52)
colorful, embroidered huipiles, panama car-rental desks, an ATM and currency- 70 btwn Calles 69 & 71) Sometimes referred to as the LUS, Occidente and Oriente bus lines use this terminal.
hats and, of course, the wonderfully com- exchange booth, and a tourist information ‘Terminal de Primera Clase,’ Mérida’s main bus terminal Destinations served from here include many small towns in
fortable Yucatecan hammocks (see boxed booth (h9am-5pm) that helps mainly with has (mostly 1st-class) buses to points around the Yucatán the northeast part of the peninsula, including Tizimín and
text, p163). hotel reservations. Peninsula and places such as Campeche, Mexico City, Río Lagartos; frequent services to Cancún and points along
During the last days of February or the be- Most international flights to Mérida are Palenque, San Cristóbal de Las Casas and Villahermosa. the way; as well as small towns south and west of Mérida,
ginning of March (the dates vary) is Kihuic, connections through Mexico City or Cancún. CAME has card phones and an ATM and runs counters for including Celestún (served by Occidente), Ticul, Ruinas de
a market that fills the Plaza Grande with Nonstop international services are provided tourist, bus and hotel information. The baggage check is Mayapán and Oxkutzcab. Some Oriente buses depart from
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
handicraft artisans and their wares from all by Aeroméxico (daily from Los Angeles, open 6am to midnight daily and charges M$5 for storage Terminal 69 and stop here; others leave directly from here
over Mexico. thrice weekly from Miami), Continental from 6am to noon, M$10 for all day. (eg those to Izamal and Tizimín).
Mercado Municipal Lucas de Gálvez (cnr Calles 56A Airlines and Northwest Airlines (both from Fiesta Americana Mérida (%924-0855; Av Colón Parque de San Juan (Calle 69 btwn Calles 62 & 64)
& 67) Mérida’s main market is a great spot to Houston, total eight times weekly). Most do- near Calle 56A) A small 1st-class terminal on the west side From all around the square and church, vans and combis
pick up that perfect piece of kitsch. mestic flights are operated by small regional
airlines, with a few flights by Aeroméxico and BUS SERVICES FROM MÉRIDA
Mexicana de Aviación. The following airlines
Handicrafts are represented in Mérida: Destination Fare ($M) Duration (hr) Departures
Casa de las Artesanías (%928-6676; Calle 63 btwn
Aeroméxico (%800-021-4010; www.aeromexico.com); Campeche (short route) 122 2½-3½ hourly ADO buses, 3 ADO GL buses, ATS 2nd-class bus
Calles 64 & 66; h 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) every 30min to 7:15pm
Mérida (%920-1293) Flies to Mexico City, Los Angeles
One place to start looking for handicrafts is Cancún 150-260 4-6 16 2nd-class Oriente buses, 20 deluxe Super Expresso
and Miami.
this government-supported market for local buses & many other buses
Aviacsa (%800-006-2200; www.aviasca.com.mx);
artisans selling just about everything. Prices Celestún 44 2 15 2nd-class Occidente buses from Noreste bus terminal
Mérida (%925-6890) Flies to Mexico City.
are fixed and a bit high. Chetumal 170-250 6-8 2 ADO buses from CAME bus terminal, 5 2nd-class
Click Mexicana (%800-112-5425; www.clickmx.com);
Artesanías Bazar García Rejón (cnr Calles 65 & 60) Mayab buses, 3 super-deluxe Caribe Express buses from
Mérida (%946-1366; Paseo de Montejo 500B) Flies between
Concentrates a wide variety of products into Terminal de Segunda Clase
Mérida and Cancún, Veracruz and Villahermosa, with connec-
one area of shops. Chichén Itzá 54-80 1¾-2½ 3 Super Expresso & hourly 2nd-class Oriente Cancún-
tions to Tuxtla Gutiérrez, Havana and other destinations.
Miniaturas (%928-6503; Calle 59 btwn Calles 60 & bound buses stop at Chichén Itzá or nearby Pisté
Continental Airlines (%800-900-5000; www.contin Cobá 94-106 3½-4 Oriente bus at 5:20am
62; h10am-8pm) Here you’ll find lots of small
ental.com); Mérida (%946-1888; Paseo Montejo No 437 Escárcega 150-176 5-5½ 4 ATS, many 2nd-class Sur buses
Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) tab-
at Calle 29) Flies nonstop between Houston and Mérida. Felipe Carrillo Puerto 134-146 5½-6 8 Mayab, 2 ATS buses
leaux, tinwork and figurines of every sort,
Delta Airlines (%800-123-4710, reservations toll-free Izamal 27 1½ frequent 2nd-class Oriente buses from Noreste
from ceramics to toy soldiers. They all have
in USA; www.delta.com) Nonstop service from Miami. bus terminal
two thing in common: they’re easy to pack
Mexicana de Aviación (%924-6633, 800-801-2010; Mayapán Ruinas 31 1½ 15 LUS buses btwn 5:30am & 8pm from Noreste bus
and have nothing to do with Yucatecan ar-
www.mexicana.com; Paseo de Montejo 493) Nonstop terminal, continuing to Oxkutzcab
tisan traditions! The store is definitely fun to
flights to Mexico City. Mexico City (Norte) 858-1136 19 ADO bus at midnight
browse and prices are fixed at a fair rate, so
Northwest Airlines (%800-907-4700 in Mexico; Palenque 316-332 8-9 1 deluxe Maya de Oro bus at 8:30am, 3 ADO buses, 1
you needn’t worry about bargaining.
www.nwa.com) Flies to Houston. Occidente bus at 7:15pm
Playa del Carmen 258-310 4½-8 10 deluxe Super Expresso buses, 1 ADO GL bus at
Clothing & Panama Hats Bus 1:30pm, numerous Mayab buses
Camisería Canul (%923-5661; Calle 62 btwn Calles 57 Mérida is the bus transportation hub of the Progreso 12.50 1 frequent buses 5:30am-10pm from the Progreso bus
& 59; h8:30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun) A good Yucatán Peninsula. See the table (opposite) for terminal, shared taxis (some with air-con) from a park-
place for guayaberas and huipiles. It has been prices and more information. Take care with ing lot on Calle 60 btwn Calles 65 & 67
in business for years, offers fixed prices and your gear on night buses and those serving Río Lagartos 70-110 3-4 3 1st- & 2nd-class Noreste buses from 9am
does custom tailoring. popular tourist destinations (especially 2nd- Ruta Puuc (round-trip) 126 8 1 2nd-class ATS bus at 8am (stops 30min at each site)
Ticul 40 1¾ frequent Mayab buses, some TRP buses; frequent cheaper
The Campeche town of Bécal is the center class buses); we have received many reports
& quicker combis from Parque de San Juan from 5am-10pm
of the hat-weaving trade (see p214), but you of theft on the night runs to Chiapas and of Tizimín 83 2½-4 6 1st- & 2nd-class Noreste buses (for Isla Holbox connect
can buy good examples of the hatmaker’s art a few daylight thefts on the Chichén Itzá and in Tizimín)
in Mérida. Prices range from a few dollars other routes. Tulum 172 4 Super Expresso bus at 6:30am, 11am & 1pm; there is
for a hat of basic quality to M$80 or more There are a number of bus terminals, and 2nd-class service to Tulum, but it takes much longer
for top quality. The Casa de las Artesanías some lines operate from (and stop at) more Uxmal 39 1-1½ 15 2nd-class ATS buses, round-trip available
has only very low-quality examples; the than one terminal. Tickets for departure from Valladolid 66-112 2½-3½ hourly buses, including Super Expresso, 2nd-class
Artesanías Bazar García Rejón is a much one terminal can often be bought at another, Oriente & ATS
better bet. and destinations overlap greatly among bus
 166 S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • H a c i e n d a Ya x c o p o i l lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • H a c i e n d a O c h i l 167

(vans or minibuses) depart for Dzibilchaltún, Muna, Grande and are thus accessible on foot. Given and processed henequen, many of its numer- nothing to stop you from exploring on your
Oxkutzcab, Tekax, Ticul and other points. the slow speed of city traffic, particularly in ous French Renaissance–style buildings have own (and possibly getting lost), but you’d
Progreso bus terminal (Calle 62 No 524 btwn Calles 65 the market areas, travel on foot is also the undergone picturesque restorations. There’s a be wise to employ one of the six guides, all
& 67) Progreso has a separate bus terminal here, serving fastest way to get around. small 17th-century museum offering glimpses members of the Cuy family, whose great-
Progreso. City buses are cheap at M$4, but routes can at the (now defunct) giant rasping machines grandfather rediscovered the caves in 1840.
Terminal de Segunda Clase (Calle 69) Also known as be confusing. Most start in suburban neigh- that turned the leaves into fiber. Frequent buses They carry lanterns and flashlights.
Terminal 69 (Sesenta y Nueve) or simply Terminal de Auto- borhoods, skirt the city center and terminate pass Yaxcopoil running between Mérida and You can opt for a basic tour or an adventure
buses, this terminal is located just around the corner from in another distant suburban neighborhood. Ticul, but it’s easiest to drive here. package – one that involves belly-crawling,
the CAME bus terminal. ADO, Mayab, Oriente, Sur and TRT To travel between the Plaza Grande and the rope descents to see human skeletons and
run mostly 2nd-class buses to points in the state and around upscale neighborhoods to the north along HACIENDA OCHIL possibly the 7m long by 20cm wide ‘Pass of
the peninsula. The terminal has a baggage check room. Paseo de Montejo, catch the Ruta 10 on Calle Lying about 44km south of Mérida, Hacienda Death,’ or ‘El Parto’ (The Birth: you figure it
57 between Calles 58 and 60, a block north of Ochil (%999-910-6035; Hwy 261 Km 176; admission M$20; out). Tours last one to six hours and cost from
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
Car the Parque Hidalgo, or catch a ‘Tecnológico,’ h9am-6pm;c) provides a fascinating, though M$200 for four people. Wear sturdy shoes.
The most flexible way to tour the many ‘Hyatt’ or ‘Montejo’ bus on Calle 60 and get basic, look at how henequen was grown and The caves are 75km southwest of Mérida off
archaeological sites around Mérida is by off at Avenida Colón. To return to the city processed. From the parking lot follow the Hwy 184, a few kilometers south of the town
rental car, especially if you have two or center, catch any bus heading south on Paseo ‘truck’ tracks – used by the small wheeled of Calcehtok. They are best reached by car.
more people to share costs. Assume you de Montejo displaying the same signs and/or carts to haul material to and from the process-
will pay a total of M$550 to M$650 per day ‘Centro.’ Many will let you off on Calle 58 ing plant – to the right around the parklike, OXKINTOK
(tax, insurance and gas included) for short- north of Calle 61. restored portion of the hacienda. You’ll pass Archaeologists have been excited about the
term rental of a cheap car. Getting around workshops where you might see locals fashion- ruins of Oxkintok (admission M$30;h8am-5pm) for
Mérida’s sprawling tangle of one-way streets Taxi ing handicrafts for sale and a small henequen several years. Inscriptions found at the site
and careening buses is better done on foot Taxis in Mérida are not metered. Rates are museum with exhibits illustrating the cultivat- contain some of the oldest known dates in the
or on a careening bus. fixed, with a M$30 minimum fare, which will ing, harvesting and processing of the plant. Yucatán, and indicate the city was inhabited
Several agencies have branches at the air- get you from the bus terminals to all down- These include pieces of machinery and photos from the pre-Classic to the post-Classic period
port as well as on Calle 60 between Calles town hotels. Most rides within city limits do of hacienda life. Iguanas abound. (300 BC to AD 1500), reaching its greatest
55 and 57, including Budget (%925-1900; www not exceed M$60. Taxi stands can be found at The casa de máquinas (machine house) and importance between AD 475 and 860.
.budgetcancun.com), Avis (%946-1524; www.avis.com.mx) most of the barrio parks, or dial %982-1504 smokestack still stand, and Ochil also has a res- Three main groups of the approximately
and Hertz (%946-2554; www.hertz.com.mx). All rent or %982-1171; service is available 24 hours taurant (mains M$80-100), bar, a small cenote and a 8-sq-km site have been restored thus far, all
for about M$350 to M$500 a day. You’ll get (dispatch fees cost an extra M$10 to M$20). henequen patch. Mayab runs 2nd-class buses near the site entrance. Though much of the
the best deal by booking ahead of time over between Mérida and Muna (M$25, one hour) rebuilding work looks like it was done with
the internet. that will drop you at Ochil’s parking lot. rubble, you can see examples of Oxkintok,
See p87 for details of the expensive toll
highway between Mérida and Cancún.
SOUTH OF MÉRIDA GRUTAS DE CALCEHTOK
Proto-Puuc and Puuc architecture. The high-
est structure (15m) is Ma-1, La Pirámide, in the
There’s a lot to do and see south of Mérida. The Calcehtok caves (h9:30am-3:30pm Mon-Fri, 8am- Ah-May group, which provides good views of
GETTING AROUND The major draws are the old henequen 5pm Sat & Sun; c) are said by some to comprise the area. Probably the most interesting struc-
To/From the Airport plantations, some still used for cultivating the longest dry-cave system on the Yucatán ture is Palacio Chich (Estructura Ca-7), in the
Bus 79 (Aviación) travels between the airport leaves, and the well-preserved Maya ruins Peninsula. More than 4km have been explored Ah-Canul group, for its original stonework
and the city center every 15 to 30 minutes like Uxmal and the lesser-known sites along so far, and two of the caves’ 25 vaults exceed and the two columns in front carved with
until 9pm, with occasional service until 11pm. the Ruta Puuc. Beyond these tourist draws 100m in diameter (one has a 30m-high ‘cu- human figures in elaborate dress. Recently
The half-hour trip (M$4) is via a roundabout you’ll find seldom-visited cenotes and caves, pola’). The caves hold abundant and impres- researchers discovered a labyrinth beneath La
route; the best place to catch the bus to the and traditional villages where life still moves sive natural formations, human and animal Pirámide, which unfortunately is closed to the
airport is on Calle 70, south of Calle 69, near at an agrarian pace: women still wear huip- remains and plenty of artifacts, including public. You can see the blocked-off entrance
the CAME bus terminal. iles and speak Yucatec, and their men still many haltunes (stone basins carved by the quite clearly from the (facing the front) right
Transporte Terrestre (%946-1529) provides bike out to cut firewood or shoot a pheasant Maya to catch water). Archaeologists have side, about halfway up.
speedy service between the airport and the for dinner. The smell of tortillas mixes with found and removed ceramic arrowheads, The ruins are reached by road by taking a
city center, charging M$100 per carload (same the citrus-like smell of the semi-arid plants quartz hammers and other tools, and you west-leading fork off the road to the Grutas
price for hotel pick-up). A taxi from the city that call the region home. It’s a rough-and- can still see low fortifications built by the de Calcehtok (see left for info on getting to
center to the airport should cost about M$80 tumble landscape, and one of the few spots Maya who sheltered here during the War of the Grutas de Calcehtok).
(but it’s hard to get this price from the airport, on the peninsula where you’ll actually find the Castes.
so walk out to the main street and flag one a few hills. The opening of the main entrance is an UXMAL
down or else prepare to pay M$200). impressive 30m in diameter and 40m deep, Pronounced oosh-mahl, Uxmal (admission M$95,
HACIENDA YAXCOPOIL ringed by vegetation often buzzing with bees. parking M$10, guides M$400;h8am-5pm;c) is one
Bus This hacienda (%999-910-4334; Hwy 261; admission M$50; It’s about 1m deep in bat guano at the bottom impressive set of ruins, easily ranking among
Most parts of Mérida that you’ll want to h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) is 33km south- (some visitors wear dust masks to avoid in- the top Maya archaeological sites (and unfor-
visit are within five or six blocks of the Plaza west of central Mérida. A vast estate that grew fection from a fungus on the guano). There’s tunately most-visited). It is a large site with
 168 S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • U x m a l lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • U x m a l 169

some fascinating structures in good condi- engineering skills of the Maya, who built a the site in the form of stucco masks protrud- Archaeologists guess variously that it was
tion and bearing a riot of ornamentation. series of reservoirs and chultunes (Maya cis- ing from façades and cornices. There is much a military academy, royal school or palace
Adding to its appeal is Uxmal’s setting in the terns) lined with lime mortar to catch and speculation as to why Uxmal was abandoned complex. The long-nosed face of Chac ap-
hilly Puuc region, which lent its name to the hold water during the dry season. First set- in about AD 900; a severe drought may have pears everywhere on the façades of the four
architectural patterns in this area. Puuc means tled about AD 600, Uxmal was influenced forced the inhabitants to relocate. separate temples that form the quadrangle.
‘hills,’ and these, rising up to about 100m, are by highland Mexico in its architecture, most Rediscovered by archaeologists in the 19th The northern temple, grandest of the four,
the first relief from the flatness of the northern likely through contact fostered by trade. This century, Uxmal was first excavated in 1929 by was built first, followed by the southern, then
and western portions of the peninsula. influence is reflected in the town’s serpent Frans Blom. Although much has been restored, the eastern and then the western.
imagery, phallic symbols and columns. The there is still a good deal to discover. Several decorative elements on the exuber-
History well-proportioned Puuc architecture, with ant façades show signs of Mexican, perhaps
Uxmal was an important city in a region that its intricate, geometric mosaics sweeping Information Totonac, influence. The feathered-serpent
encompassed the satellite towns of Sayil, across the upper parts of elongated façades, The site is entered through the modern (Quetzalcóatl, or in Maya, Kukulcán) motif
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
Kabah, Xlapak and Labná. Although Uxmal was strongly influenced by the slightly earlier Unidad Uxmal building, which holds an along the top of the west temple’s façade is
means ‘Thrice Built’ in Maya, it was actually Río Bec and Chenes styles. air-conditioned restaurant, a small mu- one of these. Note also the stylized depic-
constructed five times. The scarcity of water in the region meant seum, shops selling souvenirs and crafts, an tions of the na (traditional Maya thatched hut)
That a sizable population flourished in that Chac, the rain god or sky serpent, carried auditorium, bathrooms, an ATM and a left- over some of the doorways in the northern
this dry area is yet more testimony to the a lot of weight here. His image is ubiquitous at luggage facility. Also here is Librería Dante, and southern buildings. Take plenty of time
a bookstore that stocks an excellent selec- to look around here; the amount of detail is
tion of travel and archaeological guides, and almost overwhelming.
UXMAL 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
general-interest books on Mexico in English, Passing through the corbeled arch in the
To Mérida (80km)
Spanish, German and French; the imported middle of the south building of the quad-
Grupo books are very expensive. rangle and continuing down the slope takes
del Norte Hotel
Hacienda
Uxmal
The 45-minute sound-and-light show be- you through the Juego de Pelota (Ball Court).
MEX
261 gins nightly at 8pm in summer and 7pm in From here you can turn left and head up the
To Ruta Puuc Sites;
winter, and costs M$30. It’s in Spanish, but steep slope and stairs to the large terrace. If
Santa Elena (16km);
Campeche (180km)
you can rent devices with English, French, you’ve got time, you could instead turn right
Grupo del German or Italian translations (beamed via to explore the western Grupo del Cementerio
Noroeste
infrared) for M$25. Specify the language you (which, though largely unrestored, holds some
The Lodge need or it may not be broadcast. You’ll need interesting square blocks carved with skulls
at Uxmal
to repay the M$10 parking fee if you return in the center of its plaza), then head for the
for the show. stairs and terrace.
Cuadrángulo
de las Monjas
Sights CASA DE LAS TORTUGAS
Grupo del
Casa del To Hotel Villas
Arqueológicas
CASA DEL ADIVINO To the right at the top of the stairs is the
Adivino
Cementerio Grupo de
las Columnas
Uxmal (100m) As you climb the slope to the ruins, the Casa House of the Turtles, which takes its name
del Adivino comes into view. This tall temple from the turtles carved on the cornice. The
(the name translates as ‘Magician’s House’), Maya associated turtles with the rain god,
Unidad
Juego
de Pelota
Uxmal 39m high, was built in an unusual oval shape. Chac. According to Maya myth, when the
Temple
It gives rather a bad first impression of Uxmal people suffered from drought so did the tur-
Casa de to the visitor, consisting of round stones held tles, and both prayed to Chac to send rain.
las Tortugas
rudely together with lots of cement. What The frieze of short columns, or ‘rolled mats,’
you see is a restored version of the temple’s that runs around the temple below the turtles
fifth incarnation. Four earlier temples were is characteristic of the Puuc style. On the west
El Palomar
completely covered in the final rebuilding by side of the building a vault has collapsed, af-
the Maya, except for the high doorway on fording a good view of the corbeled arch –
the west side, which remains from the fourth remember that the Maya never mastered key-
Palacio del temple. Decorated in elaborate Chenes style stone arch design – that supported it.
Grupo Gobernador
del Oeste (a style that originated further south), the
rubble
doorway proper forms the mouth of a gigantic PALACIO DEL GOBERNADOR
Stone
Gran
Pirámide
Phalluses Chac mask. The Governor’s Palace, with its magnificent
Rd
Climbing the temple is not allowed. façade nearly 100m long, has been called ‘the
Templo del Sur Simon
San finest structure at Uxmal and the culmina-
Casa de
la Vieja CUADRÁNGULO DE LAS MONJAS tion of the Puuc style’ by Mayanist Michael
The 74-room, sprawling Nuns’ Quadrangle D Coe. The buildings have walls filled with
is directly west of the Casa del Adivino. rubble, faced with cement and then covered
 170 S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • U x m a l Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • S a n t a E l e n a 171

in a thin veneer of limestone squares; the to the Ruta Puuc sites (p172) plus Kabah and Campeche will drop you off at Uxmal, Santa On Hwy 261 at the southern entrance to
lower part of the façade is plain, the upper Uxmal, heading back from Uxmal’s parking Elena, Kabah or the Ruta Puuc turnoff. But Santa Elena, Restaurant El Chac-Mool (%999-
part festooned with stylized Chac faces and lot at 2:30pm. This ‘tour’ is transportation when you want to leave, passing buses may be 996-2025; mains M$40-60; h8am-9pm) is a friendly
geometric designs, often latticelike or fretted. only; you pay all other costs. The time spent full (especially on Saturday and Monday). place serving Yucatecan food that includes
Other elements of Puuc style are decorated at each site is enough to get only a brief ac- If you’re going from Uxmal to Ticul, a hearty vegetarian plate of rice, beans and
cornices, rows of half-columns (as in the quaintance, though some say the two hours first take a northbound bus to Muna (M$5, fried bananas. It has a little store, too.
House of the Turtles) and round columns in at Uxmal is sufficient, if barely. The cost is 20 minutes), from where you can catch Locals say The Pickled Onion (mains M$60-
doorways (as in the palace at Sayil). Stones M$126 for the whole deal, or M$78 if you one of the frequent buses to Ticul (M$8, 100;hodd hr) is the best restaurant in town.
forming the corbeled vaults in Puuc style are want to be dropped off only at Uxmal in the 30 minutes). It’s located just before the turnoff to Sacbé
shaped somewhat like boots. morning and picked up in the afternoon. Bungalows, but is often closed.
More organized tours of Uxmal and other SANTA ELENA Santa Elena is 16km southeast of Uxmal
GRAN PIRÁMIDE sites can be arranged in Mérida. See p157 for The nearest town to Uxmal is Santa Elena. and 8km north of Kabah – for details of bus
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
Though it’s adjacent to the Governor’s Palace, more details. It was originally called Nohcacab, and was services from Uxmal, see opposite; from Ticul,
a sign by the steps of the Gran Pirámide (Great virtually razed in 1847 in the War of the see p177.
Pyramid) warns ‘it is dangerous to go up’ from Sleeping & Eating Castes. ‘Ele-na’ means burnt houses in Maya.
the rear of the palace. Most visitors ignore the There is no town at Uxmal, only several top- The Mexican government changed the name KABAH
sign and take the shortcut from the palace’s end hotels. Cheaper lodgings can be found to Santa Elena in a bold PR stunt. There’s a These ruins (admission M$34;h9am-5pm), 23km
southwest corner. If you don’t feel comfort- in Santa Elena (opposite), 16km away, or in small museum (admission M$10;h8am-7pm) dedi- southeast of Uxmal, are right astride Hwy 261.
able doing this, retrace your route to go back Ticul (p177), 30km to the east. cated to a gruesome find: 18th-century child The guard shack–souvenir shop–office sells
down the hillside stairs and then keep turning Hotel Villas Arqueológicas Uxmal (%/fax 997- mummies found buried beneath the adjoin- snacks and cold drinks. The bulk of the restored
left following the base of the platform until 974-6020, in the USA 800-514-8244; www.clubmed.com; d/tr ing cathedral, and some henequen-related ruins are on the east side of the highway.
you reach the pyramid’s steps. M$860/1060;as) This Club Med is a good exhibits. Go for a little DIY adventure by On entering, head to your right to climb the
The 32m-high pyramid has been restored family spot, with a pool, tennis courts and heading 4km outside of town to the Mulchic stairs of the structure closest to the highway, El
only on its northern side. Archaeologists billiards, but the rooms are rather small pyramid; locals can tell you how to get there. Palacio de los Mascarones (Palace of the Masks).
theorize that the quadrangle at its summit and the beds are curiously sproingy (must If time permits, try asking if you can take in Standing in front of it is the Altar de los Glifos,
was largely destroyed in order to construct be the humidity). It’s also the cheapest joint the view from the roof of the cathedral. whose immediate area is littered with many
another pyramid above it. That work, for rea- around, and it has a good library to check out At Bungalows Sacbé (%985-858-1281, 997-978- stones carved with glyphs. The palace’s façade
sons unknown, was never completed. At the Catherwood’s amazing Uxmal illustrations in 5158; www.sacbebungalows.com.mx; d M$230-290) there’s is an amazing sight, covered in nearly 300
top are some stucco carvings of Chac, birds the book Incidents of Travel in Yucatan. a nice garden, and all the rooms have fans, masks of Chac, the rain god or sky serpent.
and flowers. Hotel Hacienda Uxmal (%997-976-2012, in the good screens and decent beds. Each room Most of their huge curling noses are broken
USA 800-235-4079; www.mayaland.com; d with air-con low has an excellent book with information off; the best intact beaks are at the building’s
EL PALOMAR season M$880-1480, high season M$1480; as) This about local activities, flora and fauna. The southern end. These noses may have given
West of the Gran Pirámide sits a structure Mayaland Resort is 500m from the ruins. It friendly Mexican and French owners serve a the palace its modern Maya name, Codz Poop
whose roofcomb is latticed with a pattern housed the archaeologists who explored and good, cheap breakfast (M$50). To get here, (Rolled Mat; it’s pronounced more like ‘Codes
reminiscent of the Moorish pigeon houses restored Uxmal. Wide, tiled verandas, high ask the bus driver to drop you off at the Pope’ than some Elizabethan curse).
built into walls in Spain and northern Africa – ceilings, great bathrooms and a beautiful campo de béisbol (baseball field) de Santa
hence the building’s name, which means the swimming pool make this a very comfort- Elena. It’s about 200m south of the town’s KABAH 0 50 m (Approx)
Dovecote or Pigeon House. The nine hon- able place to stay. There are even rocking southern entrance.
To Santa Elena (6km);
eycombed triangular ‘belfries’ sit on top of chairs to help you kick back after a hard day Flycatcher Inn (% 997-107-4126, 997-102-0865; Gran Uxmal (14km);
Pirámide Mérida (65km)
a building that was once part of a quadran- of exploring. www.flycatcherinn.com; d M$400-500, ste or cottage M$600) MEX
261
gle. The base is so eroded that it is hard for The Lodge at Uxmal (%997-976-2010, in the USA features six squeaky-clean rooms, an enor-
archaeologists to guess its function. 800-235-4079; www.mayaland.com; d May-Oct M$2200- mous master suite and a separate cottage. El Arco
Office
2850, Nov-Apr M$3940-4900;sa) This Mayaland All have great porches, supercomfy imported To El
Templo de
las Columnas
CASA DE LA VIEJA Resort is Uxmal’s newest luxury hotel. The beds, plus hammocks, excellent screenage Cuadrángulo
del Oeste (50m)
Off the southeast corner of the Palacio del Hacienda’s rooms are a bit nicer, but you can’t and great bathrooms. A large breakfast is
El Palacio
Gobernador’s platform is a small complex, beat the easy access to the ruins. The pool is included in the rates. The owners, a local
largely rubble, known as the Casa de la Vieja equally delicious, as are the monstro tubs – Maya and his American wife, have kept most
(Old Woman’s House). In front of it is a small some rooms even have Jacuzzis. Don’t sup- of the five hectares of land around the inn Pirámide de
los Mascarones
palapa (thatched-roof shelter) sheltering sev- pose Stephens and Catherwood enjoyed such undeveloped, and a number of bird and ani-
eral large phalluses carved from stone. Don’t luxury when they passed through the area in mal species can be seen here, including the Atlantes
get any ideas; the sign here reads ‘Do not sit.’ the late 1830s. flycatchers that gave their name to the place.
The inn’s driveway is less than 100m north
Tours Getting There & Away of Santa Elena’s southern entrance; there’s MEX
261
El Palacio
ATS buses depart Mérida’s Terminal de Uxmal is 80km from Mérida. Most buses a bus stop just across the highway from it, To Sayil (6km);
Ruta Puuc (7km); de los Mascarones
(Codz Pop)
Segunda Clase at 8am on a whirlwind excursion plying the inland route between Mérida and near Restaurant El Chac-Mool. Campeche (140km)
 172 S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • R u t a Pu u c lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • R u t a Pu u c 173

When you’ve had your fill of noses, head was connected by these marvelous ‘white be finished before this book hits the shelves.
north and around to the back of the Poop to roads’ of rough limestone. Ascending the palacio beyond its first level
LABNÁ 0 50 m (Approx)

check out the two restored atlantes (an atlas – At present nothing of the sacbé is visible, was not allowed at press time. To Xlapak (3.5km)

plural ‘atlantes’ – is a male figure used as a and the rest of the area west of the highway is Taking the path south from the palace for
supporting column). These are especially a maze of unmarked, overgrown paths leading about 400m and bearing left, you come to
interesting, as they’re some of the very few off into the jungle. the temple named El Mirador, whose rooster- Ticket
El Palacio
Office
three-dimensional human figures you’ll see There’s good, affordable lodging about 8km like roofcomb was once painted a bright red.
at the Maya sites covered in this book. One is north of Kabah at Bungalows Sacbé and the About 100m beyond El Mirador, beneath a Tr
ail
headless and the other wears a jaguar mask Flycatcher Inn; for details, see p171. protective palapa, is a stela bearing the relief
Edificio de
atop his head. of a fertility god with an enormous phallus, las Columnas

Sacbé
Descend the steps near the atlantes and turn Getting There & Away now sadly weathered.

bé
left, passing the small Pirámide de los Mascarones, Grupo Sur is a bit further, and offers beau-

(Cerem
Kabah is 104km from Mérida. For details of
YUCATÁN STATE

Sac

YUCATÁN STATE
to reach the plaza containing El Palacio. The bus services from Uxmal, see p170, and p157 tifully jungle-covered ruins with tree roots

onial Rd)
palace’s broad façade has several doorways, for details on tours. You only get about a 25- twisting through the walls.
two of which have a column in the center. minute visit on the ATS excursion bus.
These columned doorways and the groups of Buses will usually make flag stops at the Xlapak El Arco
El Mirador

decorative columnillas (little columns) on the entrance to the ruins. Many visitors come From the entrance gate at Sayil, it’s 6km east
upper part of the façade are characteristic of to Kabah by car and may be willing to give to the entrance gate at Xlapak (admission free;
the Puuc architectural style. you a lift out. h8am-5pm). The name means ‘Old Walls’ in
Steps on the north side of El Palacio’s Maya and was a general term among local
plaza put you on a path leading about people for ancient ruins. much of its interesting decorative carving
200m through the jungle to the Templo de las RUTA PUUC The ornate palacio at Xlapak (shla-pak) is is in good shape, thanks in part to a mas-
Columnas (watch out for the ‘tourist trap’ on Just 5km south of Kabah on Hwy 261, a road quite a bit smaller than those at Kabah and sive renovation project completed in 2006.
the way – a person-sized hole in the mid- branches off to the east and winds past the Sayil, measuring only about 20m in length. On the west corner of the main structure’s
dle of the pathway). This building has more ruins of Sayil, Xlapak and Labná, eventu- It’s decorated with the inevitable Chac façade, straight in from the big tree near
rows of decorative columns on the upper ally leading to the Grutas de Loltún. This masks, columns and colonnettes and fret- the center of the complex, is a serpent’s
part of its façade. is the Ruta Puuc (Puuc Route), and its sites ted geometric latticework of the Puuc style. head with a human face peering out from
West of El Palacio, across the highway, offer some marvelous architectural detail The building is interesting and on a bit of between its jaws, the symbol of the planet
a path leads up the slope and passes to the and a deeper acquaintance with the Puuc a lean. Plenty of mot-mots brighten up the Venus. Toward the hill from this is an im-
south of a high mound of stones that was Maya civilization. surrounding forests. pressive Chac mask, and nearby is the lower
once the Gran Pirámide (Great Pyramid). The For details of bus services from Uxmal, see half of a human figure (possibly a ballplayer)
path curves to the right and comes to a large p170, and p177 for details on catching the Labná in loincloth and leggings.
restored monumental arch. It’s said that the ATS excursion bus, the only regularly sched- If you’re short on time, Labná (admission M$34; The lower level has several more well-
sacbé, or cobbled and elevated ceremonial uled public transport on the route. During preserved Chac masks, and the upper level
h8am-5pm) is the Ruta Puuc site not to miss.
road, leading from here goes through the the busy winter season it’s often possible to Its setting on a flat, open area is striking, and contains a large chultún that still holds
jungle all the way to Uxmal, terminating at hitch rides from one site to the next. The best if no one has been through before you for a water. The view of the site and the hills be-
a smaller arch; in the other direction it goes way to appreciate the sites is by rented car or while, at each doorway you approach you’re yond from there is impressive.
to Labná. Once, all of the Yucatán Peninsula taxi, especially if you plan on taking time at likely to startle groups of long-tailed mot- From the palace a limestone-paved sacbé
each site. mots into flight. Between the birds and the leads to El Arco.
vegetation growing atop the palace, you can
PYRAMID SCHEME Sayil almost imagine yourself one of the first people EL ARCO
It’s tempting to skirt the (often unpoliced) The ruins of Sayil (admission M$34; h8am-5pm) are to see the site in centuries. OK, you may need Labná is best known for its magnificent
signs that prohibit climbing, but please 4.5km from the junction of the Ruta Puuc to squint a bit to ignore the trimmed grass. arch, once part of a building that separated
climb only where it’s allowed. Be careful, with Hwy 261. Archaeologists believe that at one point two quadrangular courtyards. It now appears
and if you’re worried about heights, give Sayil is best known for El Palacio, the huge in the 9th century, some 3000 Maya lived at to be a gate joining two small plazas. The
this sure-fire technique a try: zigzag up or three-tiered building with a façade some Labná. To support such numbers in these arid corbeled structure, 3m wide and 6m high, is
down the steps, making diagonal passes to 85m long and reminiscent of the Minoan hills, water was collected in chultunes (Maya well preserved, and the reliefs decorating its
either side of the stairway. Once you master palace on Crete. The distinctive columns cisterns). At Labná’s peak there were some 60 upper façade are exuberantly Puuc in style.
this style, you’ll never descend again using of Puuc architecture are used here over chultunes in and around the city; several are Flanking the west side of the arch are
the embarrassing sit-and-bump-down-on- and over, either as supports for the lintels, still visible. From the entrance gate at Xlapak, carved na with multitiered roofs. Also on
your-butt method, or the painful trip-and- as decoration between doorways and as a it’s 3.5km east to the gate at Labná. these walls, the remains of the building that
fall-to-your-near-death method, which is frieze above them, alternating with huge adjoined the arch, are lattice patterns atop a
why most of the pyramids are closed to stylized Chac masks and ‘descending gods.’ EL PALACIO serpentine design. Archaeologists believe a
climbing in the first place. The building was under renovation when we The first building you come to at Labná is high roofcomb once sat over the fine arch
passed through, but the project is slated to one of the longest in the Puuc region, and and its flanking rooms.
 174 S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • G r u t a s d e L o l t ú n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • C e n o t e s d e C u z a m á 175

EL MIRADOR or switch to English if the group warrants

Standing on the opposite side of the arch and it (tours are usually in Spanish). The serv- LEAVING THE TOURIST TRAIL BEHIND: DIY ADVENTURE IN YUCATÁN
separated from it by the sacbé is a pyramid ices of the guides are included in the ad- This book only touches the surface of the great adventures to be had in this region. Here’s
known as El Mirador, topped by a temple. mission price, though they expect a small some ideas to get you started as you leave the guidebook behind for a few days of DIY
The pyramid itself is largely stone rubble. The tip afterwards. Tours last about one hour adventure.
temple, with its 5m-high roofcomb, is well and 20 minutes, with lots of lengthy stops. Tekit is just off the road to Mayapán and has a cenote worth visiting.
positioned to be a lookout, thus its name. Some guides’ presentations are long on leg-
ends (and jokes about disappearing moth- Friar Diego de Landa burnt 5000 idols, 13 altars, 27 religious and historic codices, and 197
GRUTAS DE LOLTÚN ers-in-law) and short on geological and ceremonial vases in an auto-da-fé in 1562 in the town of Maní. The town has a nice cathedral
About 15km north and east of Labná, a sign historical information. and the Príncipe de Tutul-Xiu restaurant’s poc chuc is so popular that families will drive all the
points left to the Grutas de Loltún, 5km fur- Food is available at the parador turístico way here from Mérida to dive into the tender-as-a-baby’s-butt slow-cooked pork.
ther northeast. The road passes through lush (roadside restaurant) across the highway La Ruta de Los Conventos is a new tourist route taking you to colonial-era convents in the
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
orchards and some banana and palm groves, from the caves’ parking lot. A tiny shop near towns of Maní, Oxkutzcab, Teabo, Mama, Chumayel, Tekax and Yotholín.
an agreeable sight in this dry region. the entrance sells snacks, water and beer. The seldom-visited town of Yodznot, west of Chichén Itzá on the old highway, is developing
The Grutas de Loltún (Loltún Caverns; admission M$54, grassroots tourism.
parking M$10;h9am-5pm;c), one of the largest Getting There & Away
dry-cave systems on the Yucatán Peninsula, Renting a car is the best option for reaching
provided a treasure trove of data for archae- the Grutas, and once you’re out of Mérida are clustered in a compact core and visitors Again, you may want to consider renting a
ologists studying the Maya. Carbon dating of it’s easy going on pretty good roads. usually have the place to themselves. It is one car to get here.
artifacts found here reveals that the caves were There is a bus service to Oxkutzcab (osh- of few sites where you can ascend to the top
used by humans 2200 years ago. Chest-high kootz-kahb; M$44, 1½ hours), with de- of the pyramid for a nice view. CENOTES DE CUZAMÁ
murals of hands, faces, animals and geometric partures at 8:30am and 12:30pm, from the Don’t confuse the ruins of Mayapán with Three kilometers east of the town of Cuzamá,
motifs were apparent as recently as 20 years Noreste bus terminal in Mérida. Loltún is the Maya village of the same name, some accessed from the small village of Chunkanan,
ago, but so many people have touched them 7km southwest of Oxkutzcab, and there is 40km southeast of the ruins, past the town are the Cenotes de Cuzamá (for horse, driver, & up to 4
that scarcely a trace remains, though some usually some transportation along the road. of Teabo. people M$150;h9am-5pm), a series of three amaz-
handprints have been restored. A few pots are Camionetas (pickups) and camiones (trucks) ing limestone sinkholes accessed by horse-
displayed in a niche, and an impressive bas- charge about M$10 for a ride Exploring the Site drawn railcart in an old henequen hacienda.
relief, El Guerrero, guards the entrance. Other A taxi from Oxkutzcab may cost M$100 The city of Mayapán was large, with a popula- The fun, horse-drawn ride will jar your
than that, you’ll mostly see floodlit limestone or so one way. tion estimated to be around 12,000; it covered fillings loose while showing you attractive
formations, or the poorly aimed floodlights 4 sq km, all surrounded by a great defensive scenes of the surrounding, overgrown agave
shining into your eyes. RUINAS DE MAYAPÁN wall, a testament to the bellicose époque, fields. Iguana sightings are a sure bet here, but
To explore the labyrinth, you must take These ruins (admission M$27; h8am-5pm) are some which was its heyday. More than 3500 build- keen eyes can also see vultures or caracaras, as
a scheduled guided tour at 9:30am, 11am, 50km southeast of Mérida. Though far less ings, 20 cenotes and traces of the city wall well as other birds, lizards and the occasional
12:30pm, 2pm, 3pm or 4pm, but they may impressive than many Maya sites, Mayapán were mapped by archaeologists working in rabbit or two. One of the cenotes is featured
depart earlier if enough people are waiting, is historically significant, its main attractions the 1950s and in 1962. The late post-Classic in much of Yucatán’s tourist literature, and
workmanship is inferior to that of the great all three are spectacular, with rope-like roots
age of Maya art. descending along with ethereal shafts of light
THE RISE OF MAYAPÁN & THE DEATH WARRANT OF MAYA INDEPENDENCE Among the structures that have been re- to the crystal-clear, deep-blue water. Though
The rise of Mayapán played an integral role in the ultimate demise of Maya rule in the region. stored is the Castillo de Kukulcán, a climbable you may find yourself sharing a dip with other
The city was supposedly founded by Kukulcán (Quetzalcóatl) in 1007, shortly after the former pyramid with fresco fragments around its base bathers, it’s more likely that the drivers will
ruler of Tula arrived in Yucatán. His dynasty, the Cocom, organized a confederation of city-states and, at its rear side, friezes depicting decapi- time the trip so that you have most of the
that included Uxmal, Chichén Itzá and many other notable cities. Despite their alliance, animos- tated warriors. The reddish color is still faintly swimming to yourself. Several have steep
ity arose between the Cocomes of Mayapán and the Itzáes of Chichén Itzá during the late 12th visible. The Templo Redondo (Round Temple) is stairways or ladders that are often slippery,
century, and the Cocomes stormed Chichén Itzá, forcing the Itzáe rulers into exile. The Cocom vaguely reminiscent of El Caracol at Chichén so use caution at all times.
dynasty emerged supreme in all of northern Yucatán. Itzá. Close by is Itzmal Chen, a cenote that was It’s possible to rent a palapa in Chunkanan
Cocom supremacy lasted for almost 250 years, until the ruler of Uxmal, Ah Xupán Xiú, led a a major Maya religious sanctuary. for around M$130, but bring your own ham-
rebellion of the oppressed city-states and overthrew Cocom hegemony. The capital of Mayapán mock and mosquito net.
was utterly destroyed and remained uninhabited ever after. Getting There & Away To get here by car, take Hwy 180 toward
But struggles for power continued in the region until 1542, when Francisco de Montejo (the The Ruinas de Mayapán are just off Hwy 18, Cancún until you get to a turnoff for Ticopo
Younger) conquered T’ho and established Mérida. At that point the current lord of Maní and a few kilometers southwest of the town of on the right; after Akankeh (there’s a small
ruler of the Xiú people, Ah Kukum Xiú, proposed to Montejo a military alliance against the Telchaquillo. LUS runs hourly 2nd-class buses pyramid here), bear left to reach Cuzamá.
Cocomes, his ancient rivals. Montejo accepted, and Xiú was baptized as a Christian, taking the between 5:30am and 8pm from the Noreste From there, head east at the cathedral for
name Francisco de Montejo Xiú (original, no?). The Cocomes were defeated and – too late – the bus terminal in Mérida (M$14 each way, 1½ 3km to the cenotes. Signs will lead the way,
Xiú rulers realized that they had signed the death warrant of Maya independence. hours) that will let you off near the entrance to and keep your eyes peeled for kids, dogs, live-
the ruins and pick you up on your way back. stock and sun-drunk iguanas…all will be on
 176 S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • Ti c u l lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • Ti c u l 177

the road at some point. Shared vans leave for office (h8am-2:30pm Mon-Fri) faces the plaza, enjoy the view of the church and greet on the corner that’s open late, it has sand-
Cuzamá (M$30 round-trip, two hours) from as do two banks, Banamex and HSBC, with passing townspeople. wiches and slightly pricey pizzas with the
Mérida’s Parque de San Juan. If you use the ATMs. Telmex has an office here. Saturday mornings in Ticul are pictur- usual plethora of toppings. ‘Order by number’
vans, you’ll need to take a peditrike from the Several internet cafés are dotted around esque: Calle 23 near the market is closed to options make it easy for non-Spanish speakers
van stop to Chunkanan, an additional M$10. near the town center. Café Trovadores (internet per motorized traffic, and the street fills with to get exactly what they want.
hr M$10, coffee M$20; h9am-9pm) has a few comput- three-wheeled cycles transporting shoppers Super Willy’s (Calle 23) Across from the market,
TICUL ers, and sells coffee and pastries. between the market and their homes. this is a small supermarket with a big variety
%997 / pop 31,147 of groceries and household items.
Ticul, 30km east of Uxmal, is the largest town Sights & Activities Sleeping Ticul’s lively mercado (Calle 28A btwn Calles 21
in this ruin-rich region. It’s dusty and quiet, Because of the number of Maya ruins in the Hotel San Miguel (Calle 28 No 295D; s/d M$100/130; p) & 23) provides all the ingredients for picnics
with certainly no nightlife other than per- vicinity, from which to steal building blocks, Near the market, the friendly management and snacks, and offers nice photo ops, too.
haps a watering hole, but it has hotels and and the number of Maya in the area ‘need- offers worn, simple rooms (some musty) with It also has lots of those wonderful eateries
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
restaurants and transportation, and makes an ing’ conversion to Christianity, Franciscan fan and bathroom. The beds put a spring in where the food is good, the portions gener-
attractive base for day trips to nearby ruins, friars built many churches in the region. your sleep, but maybe not in your step the ous and the prices low. Stalls at the new Bazar
though people going by public transportation Among them is Ticul’s Iglesia de San Antonio next day. de Comidas (cnr Calles 25 & 24) serve inexpensive
to the Ruta Puuc sites will need to go to Muna de Padua, construction of which dates from Hotel Sierra Sosa (%/fax 972-0008; Calle 26 No prepared food.
or Santa Elena first. Ticul is also a center for the late 16th century. Although looted on 199A; s M$150, d/tr M$170/190, air-con extra M$60; a)
fine huipil weaving, and ceramics made here several occasions, the church has some origi- The Sierra Sosa is just northwest of the Plaza Entertainment
from the local red clay are renowned through- nal touches, among them the stone statues Mayor. It’s friendly and a bit run-down, but Cine Ideal (Calle 23 btwn Calles 26A & 28) shows mostly
out the Yucatán. of friars in primitive style flanking the side has good beds and OK bathrooms. Spanish-dubbed films.
entrances and a Black Christ altarpiece ringed Hotel San Antonio (%972-1983; cnr Calles 25A &
Orientation & Information by crude medallions. 26; s M$260, d/tr M$300/350; ap) A clean lobby Getting There & Away
Ticul’s main street is Calle 23, sometimes Diagonally opposite the Plaza Mayor is with TV and shiny tiled floors sets a good BUS, COLECTIVO & TAXI
called ‘Calle Principal’, starting from the the recently built Plaza de la Cultura, which impression that is confirmed by rooms with Ticul’s 24-hour bus terminal (Calle 24) is behind
highway and going past the mercado (mar- is all cement and stone but nevertheless an decent beds; some rooms have great views the massive church. Mayab runs frequent 2nd-
ket) to the main plaza, Plaza Mayor. A post agreeable place to take the evening breeze, of the Plaza de la Cultura. The hotel lacks class buses between Mérida and Ticul (M$40,
character, but here in Ticul, that’s kind of re- 1½ hours) from 4:30am to 9pm. Mayab and
assuring. All rooms have TV, phone and clean
TICUL 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
bathroom – there’s also off-street parking and
ADO run 11 buses to Felipe Carrillo Puerto
(M$100, four hours), frequent ones to
A B C D a pleasant restaurant. Oxkutzcab (M$8 to M$12) and five daily to
INFORMATION SLEEPING Flor del Campo.......................13 B2 Hotel Plaza (%972-0484; www.hotelplazayucatan Chetumal (M$150, six hours). There are also
Banamex......................................1 B2 Hotel Plaza...................................7 B2 Mercado................................14 A2 .com; cnr Calles 23 & 26; d/ste M$360/460; a) Spacious
Café Trovadores...........................2 B2 Hotel San Antonio........................8 C3 Pizzaria La Gondola................15 B2 eight Mayab buses to Cancún daily (M$210,
1 HSBC...........................................3 C2 Hotel San Miguel.........................9 A2 Restaurant El Colorín..............16 B2 rooms with white-tiled floors, firm beds and six hours), three of which also serve Tulum
Post Office...................................4 B2 Hotel Sierra Sosa........................10 B2 Super Willy's..........................17 A3
Telmex.........................................5 B2
small but fun balconies make this a nice (M$150) and Playa del Carmen (M$170).
EATING ENTERTAINMENT choice. The old building adds character, ADO and Super Expresso have less frequent
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Bazar de Comidas......................11 D2 Cine Ideal...............................18 B2
Iglesia de San Antonio de Padua..6 C2 El Buen Samaritano.....................12 B2
though the street-facing rooms are sometimes 2nd- and 1st-class services, respectively, to
TRANSPORT noisy. You could eat off the bathroom floors. some of these destinations.
Bus Terminal..........................19 C2
9 Colectivo Terminal.................20 C2 Laundry service, wi-fi, phone and pickup/ Colectivos (shared vans) go direct to
e1
Call Colectivos to Oxkutzcab........21 C3 drop-off in Mérida are additional reasons to Mérida’s Parque de San Juan (M$33, 1½
Call

3
16 Combis to Muna..................(see 13)
consider staying here.
e2
Call

10 Palacio Combis to Santa Elena...........22 A3 hours) from their shiny new colectivo terminal
4

4
e2

Municipal
(cnr Calles 24 & 25) as soon as they’re full between
6

12 To Maní
2
Call
e2
1
3
Plaza
Mayor
20 11 (14km) Eating 5am and 7:30pm. Combis for Oxkutzcab
e2 7
Call Flor del Campo (%972-1875; cnr Calles 23 & 28; juice (M$10, 30 minutes) leave from Calle 25A on
9 15
1 19 M$8-15;h6:30am-9pm Mon-Sat, 6:30am-3pm Sun) Juice the south side of the church between 7am
18
Call

up for the day at this tiny place, which just has

Call

14 5 2 and 8:30pm.
e2
e

13 5
e2 chilled juices (no smoothies). It’s like sipping
Calllle 25 Colectivos to Santa Elena (M$10), between
28A

Parque de 6
6A

la Madre Ca
Call

17
a part of the rainbow. Uxmal and Kabah, depart from Calle 30 be-
e2

Plaza de 5A 21 El Buen Samaritano (Calle 23) Bakes bread and tween 6:15am and 7:30pm. They take Hwy 02
e2
8

la Cultura Call
To Santa Elena sweet rolls. and drop you in Santa Elena to catch another
via Calle 34
south (13km) 8
Restaurant El Colorín (%972-0094; Calle 26 No 199B; bus northwest to Uxmal (15km) or south to
3 set meal M$35; h7am-9pm) A cheap restaurant, Kabah (3.5km).
Call
e3

To Hwy 184 (1km); half a block northwest of Plaza Mayor, offer- You can take a combi or bus to Muna
0

Oxkutzcab (16km);
22 Grutas de Loltún
(23km)
ing homemade meals. (M$10) from in front of Flor del Campo
Pizzaria La Gondola (%972-0112; Calle 23 No 208; on Calle 23 near Calle 28, and then south
mains M$40-90; h8am-1pm & 5-11pm) A clean place to Uxmal. Ruta Puuc–bound travelers can
 178 S O U T H O F M É R I D A • • Ti c u l t o Ti h o s u c o lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com W E S T & N O R T H O F M É R I D A • • C e l e s t ú n 179

peninsula’s indigenous people still travel from Tihosuco

UNDERSTANDING THE MODERN MAYA the countryside to central communities to ex- Tihosuco, located inside the state of Quintana
The area between Ticul and Tihosuco is truly the Maya heartland. Indeed, the Maya in these change produce at stalls beside a main square. Roo, was a major military outpost for the
parts entered the 21st century continuing to honor the gods of rain, wind and agriculture, just Oxkutzcab is such a community. Spanish during the late 16th century and
as their ancestors had done before them. Here, alongside Hwy 184, which be- for 300 years thereafter. During this time
Yucatán state has the second-highest percentage of indigenous-language speakers in all of comes a slow-moving, two-lane road as it the town came under numerous Maya as-
Mexico, after Oaxaca. But the number of Maya speakers is rapidly declining. In 2000, 37% of passes through the town center, the visitor saults, and in 1686 it was attacked, though
Yucatecans spoke Maya, just five years later only 33.9% claimed they spoke the language. So can’t miss seeing the magnificent Franciscan not sacked, by pirates led by legendary Dutch
where have all the Maya gone? Many have moved to big tourist cities like Cancún, while others mission, out front of which is the sprawling buccaneer Lorencillo.
have moved all the way up to the US. Many small Maya communities are beginning to welcome produce market. During many of those attacks, the
tourists in an effort to keep young folks from fleeing to the cities. It’s ironic, but inviting foreign- The church is remarkable mostly for its Spaniards retreated to the heavily fortified
ers in may prove the best way to maintain traditions. ornamental façade, at the center of which is a 17th-century church at the town center,
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
The homes of today’s rural Maya are still rectangular wood-framed huts with lean-to roofs stone statue of St Francis, the mission patron. which for much of its life served as both a
of palm. The walls are made of bamboo poles or branches, and the spaces between the poles The church, which was constructed at a snail’s house of God and an arsenal and stronghold.
are often filled with mud to keep pests out. Contemporary Maya prefer hammocks to beds, just pace from 1640 to 1693, is also remarkable for But the town and church fell to rebel hands
like their ancestors. its magnificent altarpiece. Indeed, it’s one of in 1866 following a long siege, and much of
Anywhere from a stone’s throw to an hour’s walk from a Maya hut is a milpa (corn field). Corn only a few baroque altarpieces in the Yucatán the magnificent building was gutted. What
tortillas remain a staple of the Maya diet, but the Maya also raise pigs and turkeys and produce to survive the revolts that have occurred since remains of the once-great church is still
honey, squash and other crops, which they sell from town markets. Many of the younger gen- its construction. worth investigating. Services are still held
eration, particularly men, hitchhike out to work for a week in the larger towns such as Playa del A mural in the plaza across from the mar- inside, as in many other roofless churches
Carmen or Cancún and return for a day or two on long weekends or holidays. A small family ket depicts inquisitor Friar Diego de Landa’s in the region.
will have about five children. auto-da-fé in Maní, when he burnt thousands Also in Tihosuco, housed in an 18th-
of idols (see boxed text, p35). century building one block straight ahead of
Hotel Puuc (%997-975-0103; cnr Calles 55 & 44; s/d the church, is the Museo de la Guerra de Castas
catch a 6:30am bus from Ticul to Muna and Between Oxkutzcab and Felipe Carrillo M$230/280; pa) offers a great deal for the (Museum of the War of the Castes; admission M$5; h10am-
pick up the ATS tour bus (M$50) for Labná, Puerto or Bacalar there are few restaurants price, with air-con in every business-hotel- 6pm Tue-Sun). It does a good job of detailing
Sayil, Xlapak, Kabah and Uxmal at 9am on its or gas stations, and no hotels. Mostly you see style room. The beds are Flintstone firm, and the more than three centuries of oppression
way from Mérida. It returns to Muna at 3pm. small, typical Yucatecan villages, with their there’s a pretty good restaurant downstairs. suffered by the Maya on the peninsula, but
Any of the buses leaving Ticul before 8am for traditional Maya thatched houses, topes (speed only a couple of explanations are translated
Muna (or Mérida) will get you to Muna in bumps), agricultural activity and iguanas. Tekax into English. There’s a small botanical gar-
time to catch the ATS Ruta Puuc bus. Another Unlike the church at Oxkutzcab, the one in den here as well.
way would be to catch a colectivo from Ticul TICUL TO TIHOSUCO Tekax has been looted a couple of times, ini- From Tihosuco, it’s a fast ride up Hwy
to Santa Elena, then walk a few blocks to Hwy The route from Ticul to Tihosuco, in Quintana tially during the War of the Castes and later 295 to Valladolid (p193). Going the other
261, cross it and wait for the Ruta Puuc bus to Roo, is seldom traveled by tourists. Some during the Mexican Revolution. way, Hwy 295 goes south to Felipe Carrillo
come by at about 9:30am. might say, ‘There’s nothing to see.’ But oth- Situated in an increasingly prosperous area, Puerto (p134).
Alternatively, for M$550 you can get a taxi ers will welcome the opportunity to travel due to a successful crop switch from corn
in Ticul that will stop at the Grutas de Loltún, through farmland and jungle and see glimpses to sugarcane and citrus, Tekax residents re-
Labná, Sayil, Xlapak, Kabah and Uxmal, and
wait for you while you see each place. If you
of Maya life that have remained the same for
centuries. Part of the route is called La Ruta de
cently replaced the church’s damaged floor
with a beautiful tiled floor and added a lovely
WEST & NORTH OF
wish to stay at Uxmal for the 7pm sound-and-
light show, the cost is M$100.
los Conventos (The Route of the Convents),
as each of these tiny villages has a cathedral or
new stone altar. According to Maya Missions:
Exploring the Spanish Colonial Churches of
MÉRIDA
church, many in beautiful disrepair. Prepare Yucatán, a fabulous book by Richard and CELESTÚN
CAR to hear mainly Maya, though many people Rosalind Perry, during construction of the %988 / pop 6423
The quickest way to Uxmal, Kabah and the speak Spanish as well. church one of the church’s belfries collapsed, West of Mérida, Celestún is a sleepy sun-
Ruta Puuc sites is via Santa Elena. From cen- The towns of Oxkutzcab, Tekax and burying (and presumably crushing) the many scorched fishing village that moves at a tur-
tral Ticul, go west to Calle 34 and turn south; Tihosuco offer budget accommodations. indigenous laborers under tons of rubble. tle’s pace – and that’s the way locals like it.
it heads straight to Santa Elena. Beyond Oxkutzcab, the towns along this route Miraculously, as local legend has it, no one There’s a pretty little square in the center
Those headed east to Quintana Roo and are linked by combis and, less frequently, local lost their life in the collapse. of the town and some nice beaches (though
the Caribbean coast can take Hwy 184 from buses; they may be hailed from the roadside. Also noteworthy is the shape of the church, the water is a bit turbid), but the real draw
Ticul through Oxkutzcab to Tzucacab and which undoubtedly was constructed of ma- here is Reserva de la Biósfera Ría Celestún,
José María Morelos (which has a gas station). Oxkutzcab terials taken from nearby Maya temples. The a wildlife sanctuary abounding in waterfowl,
At Polyuc, 130km from Ticul, a road turns left Located 16km southeast of Ticul, Oxkutzcab general form of the church is that of a three- with flamingos as the star attraction.
(east), ending after 80km in Felipe Carrillo is renowned for its daily produce market and tiered pyramid. Possibly the architecture was It makes a good beach-and-bird day trip
Puerto. The right fork of the road goes south colonial church. Markets were the principal based on the Maya structure from which the from Mérida, and it’s also a great place to
to Laguna Bacalar. means of trade for the ancient Maya, and the blocks were taken. kick back and do nothing for a few days,
 180 W E S T & N O R T H O F M É R I D A • • C e l e s t ú n lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels W E S T & N O R T H O F M É R I D A • • C e l e s t ú n 181

especially if you’ve become road weary. rises, often to the irritation of people who’ve BEACH & BIRDING at the Y junction, or turn right to reach El
Fishing boats dot the appealing white-sand waited 30 minutes to an hour. You can solve North of town, beyond the small navy post, Lastre (The Ballast), a peninsula between the
beach that stretches to the north for kilom- this problem by coming up with a group of you’ll find more secluded stretches of beach. estuary and its western arm. Flamingos, white
eters, and afternoon breezes cool the town eight on your own. In the same area, but inland of the road, lies pelicans and other birds are sometimes seen
on most days. Celestún is sheltered by the Trips from the beach last 2½ to three hours a large section of scrub stretching east to the here. If the water is high enough, it’s possible
peninsula’s southward curve, resulting in and begin with a ride along the coast for sev- estuary that also provides good birding op- to ask your flamingo tour captain to try stop-
an abundance of marine life and less violent eral kilometers, during which you can expect portunities. South and east of town, toward ping here on the way back from the birds.
seas during the season of nortes (winds and to see egrets, herons, cormorants, sandpipers the abandoned Hacienda Real de Salinas, is
rains arriving from the north). and many other bird species. The boat then another good area for nature observation. Sleeping
turns into the mouth of the ría (estuary) and Flamingos, white pelicans, cormorants, an- Celestún’s hotels are all on Calle 12, within a
Orientation & Information passes through a ‘petrified forest,’ where tall hingas and many other species frequent the short walk of one another. The following list
All you need to know is that Calle 11 is the coastal trees once belonging to a freshwater shores and waters of the ría (river). runs from south to north. Try to book ahead if
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
road into town (it comes due west from ecosystem were killed by saltwater intrusion you want a sea view, especially on weekends.
Mérida), ending at Calle 12, the road paral- long ago and remain standing, hard as rock. HACIENDA REAL DE SALINAS Hostel Ría Celestún (%916-2597; hostelriacelestun
leling the beach, along which lie most of the Continuing up the ría takes you under This abandoned hacienda a few kilometers @hotmail.com; cnr Calles 12 & 13; dm M$60-70, s/d low season
restaurants and hotels. Don’t plan on using the highway bridge where the other tours south and east of town once produced dye- M$80/100, high season M$100/180; i) This hostel
high-speed internet here, and bring lots of begin and beyond which lie the flamingos. wood and salt, and served as a summer home offers a good cheap sleep, with single-sex
cash as there are no banks or ATMs. Depending on the tide, the hour and the sea- for a Campeche family. It’s 5km in from the or mixed fan-cooled dorms (slightly dusty),
son, you may see hundreds or thousands of mouth of the estuary. Out in the ría you can see kitchen and laundry facilities, a courtyard and
Sights & Activities the colorful birds. Don’t encourage your cap- a cairn marking an ojo de agua dulce (freshwa- TV room for common areas, bicycle rentals
RESERVA DE LA BIÓSFERA RÍA CELESTÚN tain to approach them too closely; a startled ter spring) that once supplied the hacienda. and internet access. The staff are great sources
The 591-sq-km Reserva de la Biósfera flock taking wing can result in injuries and The buildings are decaying in a most scenic of info about the area, and can provide direc-
Ría Celestún is home to a huge variety deaths (for the birds). In addition to taking way; you can still see shells in the wall mixed tions for doing just about anything.
of animals and birdlife, including a large you to the flamingos, the captain will wend into the building material, as well as pieces Hotel Sofía (%in Mérida 999-189-8959; Calle 12; s/d
flamingo colony. through a 200m mangrove tunnel and visit of French roof tiles that served as ballast in M$150/300; p) The rooms smell a bit, but they
The best months to see the flamingos are one or both (as time and inclination allow) ships on the way from Europe. Many intact are pretty well maintained and a decent value.
from March or April to about September, of the freshwater cenote-springs welling into tiles with the brickworks’ name and location, It also has secure parking and the owners let
outside the season of the nortes. Morning is the salt water of the estuary, where you can Marseille, are still visible in what’s left of the guests use the (hand) laundry facilities.
the best time of day, though from 4pm on- take a refreshing dip. roofs. The hacienda makes a good bicycle Hotel María del Carmen (%/fax 916-2170; cnr Calles
ward the birds tend to concentrate in one Currently, a boat from the beach costs excursion from town. Coming south, go left 12 & 15; d with fan/air-con M$250/300; ip) This place
area after the day’s feeding, which can make M$1200 to operate; the average price with
for good viewing. eight people ends up around M$150 per pas-
senger. If it’s just you and a friend, try asking HENEQUEN: A SMELLY, BITTER HARVEST
Tours for M$1000 for the boat. If you remember that Yucatán state would have been little more than a provincial backwater if it weren’t for a spiky
In Celestún, you can hire a boat for bird- trips happen on Mexican time, you’ll enjoy son-of-a-bitch-of-a-plant named Agave Fourcroydes. Some call it henequen, others call it sisal;
watching either from the bridge on the high- it a lot more. call it what you will, the up-to-2m-high lanced-leaved plant used to create strong maritime
way into town (about 1.5km inland) or from Tours from the bridge, where there is a rope was chlorophyll gold from the late 19th century to the end of WWI for the ‘sisal barons’
the beach itself. Boats depart from outside parking lot, ticket booth and a place to wait of Yucatán.
Restaurant Celestún, at the foot of Calle for fellow passengers, are slightly cheaper and Today henequen is still cultivated in the region; however, cheap synthetics and imported
11. The restaurant’s beachfront palapa is a last about 1½ hours. For M$140 per passenger Brazilian fibers are now dominating the market. But the state still has its hand in the production
pleasant place to wait for a group to accumu- (maximum six passengers), you get to see the of sisal ropes: the fibers from Brazil are now woven into rope in the maquiladoras (for-export
late, rather than the tiny palapa at the boats flamingos, mangrove tunnel and spring. It’s factories) around the state. You will normally smell a henequen plant before you see it, as they
themselves. Otherwise, Turitransmérida in also possible to add a trip from the bridge emit a putrid, excremental odor. And just like in the old days when indigenous labor was em-
Mérida organizes flamingo tours (for details, south to the ‘petrified forest,’ for an additional ployed under slave conditions, the maquiladoras of today still create huge profit margins, while
see p157). M$100 per passenger and a total time of about paying employees only M$44 per day.
Unfortunately, hiring a boat can be a frus- 2½ hours. Once planted, henequen can grow virtually untended for seven years. Thereafter, the plants are
trating experience, and a lesson in false ex- With either the bridge or beach option, stripped for fiber, yielding about 25 leaves annually. A plant may be productive for upwards of
pectations. Knowing what to expect will save your captain may or may not speak English. two decades. To get at the fibrous interior, the leaves are cut off by machete, taken to a factory
you some frustration. First, operators tend to An English-speaking guide can be hired at the and crushed between heavy rollers. The pulpy vegetable matter is scraped away to reveal fiber
try to collect as many people as possible, often bridge for about M$200 per hour; this reduces strands up to 1.5m in length, which are slightly stretchable and resistant to marine organisms.
telling one couple ‘Sure, the tour will leave at the maximum possible number of passengers, Growing henequen on the peninsula is still economically viable, if barely. The decline has been
8:30am,’ and another couple ‘We’ll wait for of course. Bring snacks, water and sunscreen hard on the few Maya farm workers who still struggle to keep the defibering machines operating
you until 9am.’ Prices are often quoted as- for the longer tours. There is no bank in town, on a few former haciendas. The town of Ake, east of Mérida, has one of only three remaining
suming eight passengers, but if only four or six and neither credit cards nor traveler’s checks working rasping machines in the region.
people show up that means the quoted price are accepted by the tour operators.
 182 W E S T & N O R T H O F M É R I D A • • R u i n e d H a c i e n d a s R o u t e Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels W E S T & N O R T H O F M É R I D A • • P r o g re s o 183

has 14 clean and pleasant beachfront rooms You should ask locally before visiting Whether you come to strike a Y-shaped ‘feel the streets flood with cruise-ship tourists, but
tucked behind a picturesque maroon-colored any of these haciendas. A land dispute the pyramid power’ pose, to snap a picture or the place can feel empty on off nights, which
false front; rooms on the upper floors have kicked off protests in Chunchucmil in 2007. just to see what the fuss is about, it’s pretty makes a refreshing change.
balconies facing the sea. Prices drop when Paying local boys a small tip to show you impressive – many who’ve seen both feel the There’s also a strong evangelical presence
things are slow. around goes a long way to ease the mount- sunrise here is more spectacular than Chichén here, so on Sunday prepare to see families in
Hotel Los Manglares (%998-916-2156; www.hotel ing tensions regarding who, in fact, owns Itzá’s famous snake (p188), and is well worth their finest clothes heading to church. You’re
manglares.com; Calle 12, 1km north of Calle 11; d M$850, (and therefore has the right to develop) getting up at the crack of dawn to witness. as likely to be approached by people offering
cabana M$1600; aspc) While the architec- these haciendas. Enter the site along a nature trail that ter- pamphlets (sometimes even in English) about
ture doesn’t blend perfectly with the laid-back After Chunchucmil the road is in good minates at the modern, air-conditioned Museo redemption as by hammock sellers.
feel of town, this is a nice upscale choice. The shape (look for the covered Maya mounds as del Pueblo Maya (h8am-4pm Tue-Sun), featuring
rooms all have sea views and private balconies. you drive away), and about every 5km passes artifacts from throughout the Maya regions of Orientation & Information
The well-appointed cabanas have minikitchens, another ruined hacienda – easy to spot as Mexico, including some superb colonial-era Downtown Progreso’s streets have new signs
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
Jacuzzis and a small common area, making there’s a futbol (soccer) pitch in front of religious carvings and other pieces. Exhibits in anticipation of the tourist boom, and its
them perfect for families. each one – all the way to Hacienda Granada, explaining Maya daily life and beliefs from confusing dual numbering system has largely
shortly before the road hits old Hwy 180. ancient times until the present are labeled in been eliminated. Even-numbered streets run
Eating Several buildings are pretty hard to see from Spanish and English. Beyond the museum, a east–west; odd ones north–south. The bus
Celestún’s specialties are crab, octopus, small the road, so you’ll need to stop frequently to path leads to the central plaza, where you’ll terminal, on Calle 29, is west of Calle 82, a
shrimp from the lagoon and, of course, fresh really give them their due. There are two tall- find an open chapel that dates from early block north (toward the water) from the main
fish. Restaurants close early (7:30pm or so) eres de arte popular (pop art workshops) near Spanish times (1590–1600). plaza. From the plaza on Calle 80, it’s six short
on weeknights. the church in Granada. Stop by from 10am The Cenote Xlacah is more than 40m deep. blocks to the waterfront malecón (boulevard;
Restaurante Chivirico (cnr Calles 11 & 12; mains M$60- to 6pm (Monday to Saturday) to watch local In 1958 a National Geographic Society diving Calle 19) and muelle (wharf); along the way
120; h10am-7:30pm) A large place with wicker women create jipijapa (palm frond) hats expedition recovered more than 30,000 Maya are two Banamex banks, one with an ATM.
chairs and a TV with Spanish soaps as its and baskets. artifacts, many of ritual significance, from the Internet cafés offering so-so access are
ambience, the Chivirico has excellent seafood Hacienda Santa Rosa (%999-910-4852; www.star cenote. The most interesting of these are now sprinkled everywhere, especially around the
and is well worth a visit. The ensalada de jaiba wood.com/luxury; r M$3290, ste M$4090-4660) is the on display in the site’s museum. South of the bus terminal and Calles 29 and 78. Some stay
(crab salad; M$60) is delicious. only hacienda in the area that has been cenote is Estructura 44 – at 130m it’s one of the open until 9pm, others as late as 1am, charg-
Restaurant Los Pamponos (Calle 12, just north of Calle converted into a hotel. The 11 rooms show longest Maya structures in existence. ing about M$15 per hour.
11; mains M$60-120;h11am-7pm) A tranquiloer- amazing variety; some have private walled Parking costs M$10. Minibuses and colec-
than-thou joint on the beach, this is a great gardens with bathtubs or plunge pools. tivos depart frequently from Mérida’s Parque Sleeping & Eating
spot for afternoon drinks on the sand. Try the de San Juan for the village of Dzibilchaltún All hotels and restaurants listed are no more
octopus ceviche or a fish fillet stuffed to the DZIBILCHALTÚN Ruinas (M$8, 30 minutes), a little over 1km than 11 blocks north and east of the bus
brim with shellfish. About 17km north of downtown Mérida (a from the museum. Taxis will cost around terminal. Head inland to get cheaper, more
La Playita (mains M$70-120; h10am-7pm) It’s 25-minute drive), Dzibilchaltún (Place of Inscribed M$120 round-trip. authentic eats.
right on the (sometimes windy) beach with Flat Stones; admission M$63, children under 13yr free;h8am- Hotel Miralmar (%935-0552; Calle 27 No 124 at
great views. Cheap seafood and ceviche are 5pm, 5:30am-5pm at equinox) was the longest con- PROGRESO Calle 76; s/d with fan M$230/260, d with air-con M$330;
its main draw. tinuously utilized Maya administrative and %969 / pop 35,519 a) You’re probably better off down by the
ceremonial city, serving the Maya from 1500 If Mérida’s heat has you dying for a quick beach, but if you want to keep it real in town,
Getting There & Away BC or earlier until the European conquest beach fix, or you want to see the longest this is a good budget bet. Four blocks in-
Buses from Mérida head for Celestún (M$44, in the 1540s. At the height of its greatness, wharf (7km) in Mexico, head to Progreso land, it has mostly comfortable beds, decent
two hours) 17 times daily between 5am and Dzibilchaltún covered 15 sq km. Some 8500 (also known as Puerto Progreso). The beach is bathrooms and good natural light. Rooms
8pm from Noreste bus terminal. The route structures were mapped by archaeologists fine, well groomed and long; however, except on the upper floor have better ventilation
terminates at Celestún’s plaza, a block inland in the 1960s; only a few of these have been for the small palapas erected by restaurants, and private bathrooms, in curious prefab
from Calle 12. Returning buses also run from excavated and restored. In some ways it’s un- it’s nearly shadeless and is dominated by the clover-shaped units.
5am to 8pm. impressive if you’ve already seen larger places, view of the wharf, giving it a rather industrial Hotel Tropical Suites (%935-1263; fax 935-3093; cnr
By car from Mérida, the best route to such as Chichén Itzá or Uxmal, but twice a feel. Winds can hit here full force off the Gulf malecón & Calle 70; d/tw with fan M$250/300, with air-con
Celestún is via the new road out of Umán. year humble Dzibilchaltún shines. At sunrise in the afternoon and can blow well into the M$250/350; a) Across the street from Hotel
on the equinoxes (approximately March 21 night, which should mean good kiteboarding Real del Mar, this seaside hotel has 21 tidy,
RUINED HACIENDAS ROUTE and September 22), the sun aligns directly and windsurfing, but currently there’s neither nonmusty, smallish rooms, some with sea
A fascinating alternative return route if you’re with the main door of the Templo de las Siete unless you’ve brought your own rig. As with views. The 1st-floor rooms facing the street
driving out of Celestún is to turn south off Muñecas (Temple of the Seven Dolls), which other Gulf beaches, the water is murky; vis- don’t afford much privacy.
Hwy 281 where a sign points to Chunchucmil. got its name from seven grotesque dolls dis- ibility even on calm days rarely exceeds 5m. Hotel Real del Mar (%935-0798; cnr malecón & Calle
The road has frequent potholes along the covered here during excavations. As the sun None of this stops Méridanos from coming 70; s/d M$200/300, seaside d M$550; a) There’s large
25km stretch to Chunchucmil, which is the rises, the temple doors glow, then ‘light up’ in droves on weekends, especially in summer. balconies offering panoramic ocean views on
name of both a ruined henequen hacienda and as the sun passes behind. It also casts a cool Even on spring weekdays it can be difficult to both floors of this sprawling hotel. The décor
a nearby Maya archaeological site. square beam on the crumbled wall behind. find a room with a view. Once or twice a week is nice, with tiled floors, a small fountain and
 184 W E S T & N O R T H O F M É R I D A • • E a s t o f P r o g re s o lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • I z a m a l 185

a tropical green-and-yellow paint job, and the The most interesting bits of this area are The simple Hotel Libros y Sueños (%991-917- began to build from its stones one of the
satiny sheets are ‘muy romantico.’ relatively close to Progreso and are best ex- 4125; www.l-y-s.net; Calle 23 No 200; s/d with fan M$200/250) first monasteries in the western hemisphere.
Restaurant Mary Doly (Calle 25 btwn Calles 74 & 76; plored by car. Telchak Puerto (below) is the has a big English-language library, clean Work on Convento de San Antonio de Padua (ad-
breakfast M$18-30, mains M$30-80;h7am-9pm) Near best place to base operations in the region. rooms and wi-fi, and it’s just a block away mission free;h6am-8pm) was finished in 1561.
Hotel Miralmar, this is a homey place with At Uaymitún a tall wooden observation from the beach. Under the monastery’s arcades, look for
good, cheap seafood and meat dishes and tower at the edge of the lagoon allows you The monstro all-inclusive Hotel Reef Yucatán building stones with an unmistakable maze-
breakfasts. The freshly squeezed orange juice to watch flamingos, as well as ibis, herons, (%999-941-9494; www.reefyucatan.com; Zona Hotelera like design; these were clearly taken from the
is very refreshing. spoonbills and other waterfowl. Telchac Puerto; r per person M$990; asp) has 150 earlier Maya temple.
Restaurant El Cordobes (%935-2621; cnr Calles 80 & The buildings thin out beyond Uaymitún, rooms, a big swimming pool and a pretty The monastery’s principal church is the
31; mains M$45-90; h6am-midnight) Also near Hotel and about 16km east of it a road heads south damned good beach. Expect boilerplate all- Santuario de la Virgen de Izamal, approached by
Miralmar, this locals’ joint is on the north side from the coast some 3km across the bird- inclusive rooms, service and food. a ramp from the main square. The ramp leads
of the plaza in a 100-year-old building. Weak riddled lagoon to the turnoff for the ruins of into the Atrium, a huge arcaded courtyard in
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
‘American’ coffee is served quickly, with a Xcambó, a Maya salt-distribution center with a which the fiesta of the Virgin of Izamal takes place
warm smile, and it’s a perfect place to relax
for a bit, sluice down a cerveza and look out
few reconstructed structures. While it’s tech-
nically free to visit the ruins, the caretaker will
EASTERN each August 15. There’s a sound-and-light show
(admission M$40;h8:30pm Tue, Thu & Sat) here three
on the main plaza.
Restaurant Los Pelícanos (%935-5378; cnr malecón
ask for a small donation.
Following the road south beyond the ruins
YUCATÁN STATE nights a week.
At some point the 16th-century frescoes
& Calle 70; mains M$55-100, special dishes M$200; h8am- turnoff takes you into grassy marshland with Scrub jungle, intact colonial cities, cenotes
beside the entrance of the sanctuary were
midnight Mon-Sat, 8am-8pm Sun) By Hotel Real del cattails and scatterings of palm trees, a beauti- aplenty and Yucatán’s largest coastal estu-
completely painted over. For years they lay
Mar, Los Pelícanos has a shady terrace, sea ful landscape providing ample opportunities ary are but a few of the attractions in the
eastern portion of this state. Oh, and then concealed under a thin layer of whitewash
views, a good menu and moderate prices, con- for bird-spotting without even getting out until a maintenance worker who was clean-
sidering its location. It’s usually very windy. of the car. there’s the seventh modern wonder of the
world, Chichén Iztá, as well as a smattering ing the walls discovered them recently. The
Peaches and cream is a satisfying way to fin- Continuing south on this road takes you church’s original altarpiece was destroyed
of less-visited (but nonetheless impressive)
ish a meal. back to civilization at Motul, from where you by a fire believed to have been started by a
Maya ruins.
can head in any number of directions: east fallen candle. Its replacement, impressively
Getting There & Away and south to Izamal, west and north to the gilded, was built in the 1940s. In the niches
Progreso is 33km north of Mérida along a Dzibilchaltún ruins, southwest to Tixkokob IZAMAL at the stations of the cross are some superb
fast four-lane highway that’s basically a con- and its beautiful hammocks (see boxed %988 / pop 15,100 small figures.
text, p163), or west and south to Mérida via In ancient times Izamal was a center for the
tinuation of the Paseo de Montejo. The bus worship of the supreme Maya god, Itzamná, In the small courtyard to the left of the
station (Calle 29, btwn Calles 80 & 82) has numerous Conkal, whose Convento de San Francisco de church, look up and toward the Atrium to see
Asís now houses the new Museo de Arte Sacro and the sun god, Kinich-Kakmó. A dozen
Mérida-bound buses from 5:20am to 10pm. temple pyramids were devoted to these or the original sundial projecting from the roof’s
For bus information to Progreso from Mérida, (admission free; h9am-6pm Tue-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun). This edge. A small museum (h10am-1pm & 3-6pm Mon-
is a small but well-done museum of religious other gods. No doubt these bold expressions
see p164. of Maya religiosity are why the Spanish col- Sat, 9am-4pm Sun) at the back commemorates
art and artifacts, including 18th- and 19th- Pope John Paul II’s 1993 visit to the monas-
onists chose Izamal as the site for an enor-
EAST OF PROGRESO century altarpieces and carvings of saints, mous and impressive Franciscan monastery, tery. He brought with him a silver crown for
Heading east from Progreso, Hwy 27 parallels good historical and archaeological exhibits which still stands at the heart of this town, the statue of the patron saint of Yucatán, the
the coast for 70km, to Dzilam de Bravo, be- detailing the foundation (and later restora- located about 70km east of Mérida. Virgin of Izamal.
fore turning inland. It’s a beautiful drive, and tion) of Yucatán’s monasteries, and contem- The Izamal of today is a quiet provincial The monastery’s front entrance faces west;
you’ll pass miles of mixed mangrove clumps porary profane and religious artwork. Some of town, nicknamed La Ciudad Amarilla (The it’s flanked by Calles 31 and 33 on the north
and notice that on the right (south) the mud the latter is surprisingly racy. All labeling is in Yellow City) for the traditional yellow build- and south, respectively, and Calles 28 and 30
takes on a pink color. Unsurprisingly, this area Spanish. Be sure to check out the architecture ings that spiral out from the center like a on the east and west. The best time to visit is
is named the Laguna Rosada (Pink Lagoon). of the convent itself, including the noria (ir- budding daisy. It’s easily explored on foot, in the morning, as the church is occasionally
Heading east from Dzilam, the road continues rigation system) out back. and horse-drawn carriages add to the city’s closed during the afternoon siesta.
a further 100km to hit the coast at the charm- charm. Making a trip here even easier is the Southeast of the convent on the plaza is
ing fishing village of San Felipe (p200). Telchac Puerto excellent tourist map, available in several the small Museo de los Grandes Maestros del Arte
On the seaward side (the north) of the There really isn’t much to do in Telchac Puerto languages (English and Spanish are always Mexicano (Calle 31 No 201; admission free; h10am-6pm
Rose Lagoon things are less pristine with a but sit on the brown-sand beach, suck the available, but there’s also French, German Tue-Sat, 10am-5pm Sun), an art museum and gallery
lot of new timeshares, condo-mondos and briny air and wait for the earth to turn another and even Japanese), describing various walk- showcasing pop art from around Mexico. It’s
hotels. Local fishing communities are tak- rotation. The town, just a few kilometers east of ing tours and locations where handicraft also worth taking the time to visit the talleres
ing a big hit as prices rise with the tour- the turnoff to Xcambó on the road to Dzilam, demonstrations take place. de arte (artisan workshops) found throughout
ism and second-home boom. But things are is a good place to base yourself for adventures the city. Your little yellow map will lead the
still pretty laid-back here. It might even be along this forgotten-but-not-totally-lost coast. Sights & Activities way to adventures and cultural attractions
a good spot to do a little guerrilla camping There are no ATMs or banks here, and it’s best When the Spaniards conquered Izamal, beyond the scope of this book.
on the beach. Remember, the beach is public to arrive by car. Locals recommend Tiburón they destroyed the major Maya temple, Three of the town’s original 12 Maya pyra-
property in Mexico. Restaurant in the town center. the Ppapp-Hol-Chac pyramid, and in 1533 mids have been partially restored. The largest
 186 E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • C h i c h é n I t z á Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • C h i c h é n I t z á 187

small family-run establishment specializes The heat, humidity and crowds can be incorporating the cult of Quetzalcóatl
PUEBLOS AND PLACES OFF THE MAP in Yucatecan fare (with a few international fierce; try to do your exploration of the site (Kukulcán, in Maya). You will see images
There’s a ton of good off-the-map adven- favorites thrown in to keep the tourists (especially around El Castillo) either early in of both Chac-Mool, the Maya rain god, and
tures to be had in and around town. Here happy). Try a twist on the traditional with the morning or late in the afternoon. Quetzalcóatl, the plumed serpent, through-
are a few of our favorites: the pozole con coco (Maya corn stew with out the city.
coconut overtones). History The substantial fusion of highland cen-
Cuauhtémoc A small community 6km
Several loncherías occupy spaces in the Most archaeologists agree that the first tral Mexican and Puuc architectural styles
south of Izamal on an extension of Calle
market on the monastery’s southwest side. major settlement at Chichén Itzá, during makes Chichén unique among the Yucatán
24, with a 17th-century chapel.
the Late Classic period, was pure Maya. In Peninsula’s ruins. The fabulous El Castillo
Kimbilá Located 8km west of Izamal on about the 9th century, the city was largely and the Plataforma de Venus are outstanding
an extension of Calle 31, this town is Getting There & Away abandoned for reasons unknown. It was architectural works built during the height of
famous for its embroidery. Oriente operates frequent buses between resettled around the late 10th century, and Toltec cultural input.
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
Mérida and Izamal (M$27, 1½ hours) from shortly thereafter it is believed to have been The sanguinary Toltecs contributed more
Iztamatul, Habuk, Chaltún Há & the Noreste bus terminal. There are buses
beyond They’ve discovered some 80 invaded by the Toltecs, who had migrated than their architectural skills to the Maya.
from Valladolid (M$41, two hours) as well. from their central highlands capital of Tula, They elevated human sacrifice to a near obses-
pre-Hispanic structures within the city Coming from Chichén Itzá you must change
limits. Habuk, Itzamatul and Chaltún Há north of Mexico City. The bellicose Toltec sion, and there are numerous carvings of the
buses at Hoctún. Izamal’s bus terminal is culture was fused with that of the Maya, bloody ritual in Chichén demonstrating this.
are just a few. They are all free to the two short blocks west of the monastery.
public, and you can hire a guide at the
tourist center. CHICHÉN ITZÁ 0 200 m

CHICHÉN ITZÁ 0 0.1 miles

%985 To Pisté (1km);

Hwy 180 (1km);
To Cenote
Sagrado
Templo del
(and the third largest in Yucatán) is the enor- The most famous and best restored of the Mérida (120km)
Barbado
(300m)

Sacbé
mous Kinich-Kakmó, three blocks north of the Yucatán Maya sites, Chichén Itzá (Mouth of the
monastery. You can climb it for free. Well of the Itzáes; admission M$95, parking M$10, sound-&-
If you want a real jungle experience, ask light show M$30, guide M$500-600;h8am-6pm summer, Plataforma de los
Gran Cráneos (Tzompantli)
at the tourist center (%988-954-0009, Calle 30 No 8am-5:30pm winter), while tremendously over- Juego
de Pelota Plaza
323) for Esteban Abán, the jewelry maker, crowded – every gaper and his grandmother Principal Plataforma
de Venus
who offers guided trips to Ox-Huadz, an is trying to check off the new seven wonders Plataforma de
las Águilas y Templo de las
unexcavated ruin. You’ll need to make of the world – will still impress even the Western los Jaguares Grandes Mesas
Entrance Entrance to El
arrangements at least a day in advance, most jaded visitor. Many mysteries of the Templo de
los Jaguares Túnel (Inner Templo de
Pyramid) los Guerreros
depending on Abán’s availability, but Maya astronomical calendar are made clear y Escudos
Juego
the trip offers great birding and Indiana when one understands the design of the de Pelota
Jones–style ruin-hunting. You can also rent ‘time temples’ here. Other than a few minor Vistors
bikes at the tourist center. passageways, climbing on the structures is Center El Castillo Columnata
(Pyramid of Grupo de las Noreste
not allowed. Kukulcán) Mil Columnas
Sleeping & Eating At the vernal and autumnal equinoxes (March Juego
de Pelota
Posada Flory (%954-0562; Calle 30 No 267, cnr Calle 22; 20 to 21 and September 21 to 22), the morn- El Osario
(Tumba del
s/d M$180/250;a) There’s a nice little center ing and afternoon sun produces a light-and- Gran Sacerdote) Snack
Bar
patio in this small, uberclean budget hotel, shadow illusion of the serpent ascending or El Mercado
Baño
Casa de
probably the best low-end deal in town. You descending the side of El Castillo’s staircase. los Metates y Juego
de Vapor
No 2
wa de Pelota
can air-con yourself for a few extra pesos. The site is mobbed on these dates, however, Ca
us
e
Templo
oMacan Ché (%/fax 954-0287; www.macan making it difficult to see, and after the spec- del Venado Cau
s ew
ay
che.com; Calle 22 No 305; d M$380-600; ais) It’s tacle, parts of the site are sometimes closed
about three long (yes, long!) blocks east of to the public. The illusion is almost as good Cenote Eastern To Pisté (4km); Mérida
Entrance
the monastery (take Calle 31 toward Cancún in the week preceding and following each Xtoloc (free & toll, 55km);

il
Juego de Pelota Gate

Tra
La Casa Valladolid (toll, 55km);
Colorada Cancún (toll, 215km)
and turn right on Calle 22) to this very Zen equinox (and draws much smaller crowds), (Red House)
boutique hotel, which has a cluster of cot- and is re-created nightly in the sound-and- Hotel
Mayaland
tages and a small ‘cenote’ pool in a woodsy light show year-round. Some find the spec- El Caracol
MEX
180
setting. The most expensive of the 12 rooms tacle fascinating, others think it’s overrated. Baño de Vapor
(Observatory)

has air-con and a kitchenette. Rates include Either way, if you’re in the area around the No 1
Templo de los
a big breakfast. Free wi-fi and Local Area equinox and you’ve got your own car, it’s La
Iglesia
Tableros Esculpidos

y
Network (LAN) for guests. easy to wake up early for Dzibilchaltún’s

Old Hw
Edificio de To Club Med Villas Arqueológicas (50m);
El Toro (Calle 31 No 303; mains M$60-90; h8am- fiery sunrise (see p182) and then make it to las Monjas
(Nunnery)
Hacienda Chichén (100m);
Ik Kil Parque Ecoarqueológico (3km);
midnight) At the southeast corner of the Chichén Itzá by midafternoon, catching both To Chichén
Viejo (50m) - (Not
Akab-Dzib Grutas de Balankanché (5km);
Valladolid (45km); Cancún (free, 205km)
roundabout in front of the monastery, this spectacles on the same day. Open to Public)
 188 E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • C h i c h é n I t z á lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • C h i c h é n I t z á 189

After a Maya leader moved his political capital Sights

to Mayapán while keeping Chichén as his EXPLORING THE RUINS DREDGING CHICHÉN’S SACRED CENOTE
religious capital, Chichén Itzá fell into decline. Visitors Center Around 1900 Edward Thompson, a Harvard professor and US consul to Yucatán, bought the
Why it was subsequently abandoned in the The visitors center has a small but worthwhile hacienda that included Chichén Itzá for M$750. No doubt intrigued by local stories of female
14th century is a mystery, but the once-great museum (h8am-5pm), with sculptures, reliefs, virgins being sacrificed to the Maya deities by being thrown into the site’s cenote, Thompson
city remained the site of Maya pilgrimages artifacts and explanations in Spanish, English resolved to have the cenote dredged.
for many years. and French. He imported dredging equipment and set to work. Gold and jade jewelry from all parts of
The Chilam Balam Auditorio, next to the Mexico and as far away as Colombia was recovered, along with other artifacts and a variety of
Orientation museum, sometimes has video shows about human bones. Many of the artifacts were shipped to Harvard’s Peabody Museum, but some have
Most of Chichén’s lodgings, restaurants and Chichén and other Mexican sites. The picture since been returned to Mexico.
services are arranged along 1km of high- quality can be truly abominable, but the air- Subsequent diving expeditions in the 1920s and 1960s turned up hundreds of other valuable
way in the village of Pisté, to the western con is great. In the central space of the visitors artifacts. It appears that all sorts of people, including children and old people, the diseased and
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
(Mérida) side of the ruins. It’s 1.5km from center stands a scale model of the archaeologi- the injured, and the young and the vigorous, were forcibly obliged to take an eternal swim in
the ruins’ main (west) entrance to the near- cal site, and off toward the toilets is an exhibit Chichén’s Cenote Sagrado.
est hotel (Pirámide Inn) in Pisté, and 2.5km on Edward Thompson’s excavations of the The cenote is reached by walking about 200m north from the Platforma de Venus.
from the ruins to Pisté’s village plaza, which Cenote Sagrado.
is shaded by a huge tree. Buses to Pisté gen-
erally stop at the plaza; you can make the El Castillo Gran Juego de Pelota jaguars. Inside are faded mural fragments
hot walk to and from the ruins in 20 to As you approach from the visitors center The great ball court, the largest and most im- depicting a battle.
30 minutes. into the site, El Castillo (also called the pressive in Mexico, is only one of the city’s
On the eastern (Cancún) side, it’s 1.5km Pyramid of Kukulcán) rises before you in all eight courts, indicative of the importance the Plataforma de los Cráneos
from the highway along the access road to its grandeur. The first temple here was pre- games held here. The court, to the left of the The Platform of Skulls (tzompantli in Náhuatl,
the eastern entrance to the ruins; three top- Toltec, built around AD 800, but the present visitors center, is flanked by temples at either a Maya dialect) is located between the Templo
end hotels line the road, the closest being 25m-high structure, built over the old one, end and is bounded by towering parallel walls de los Jaguares and El Castillo. You can’t mis-
only about 100m from the entrance. has the plumed serpent sculpted along the with stone rings cemented up high. take it, because the T-shaped platform is fes-
stairways and Toltec warriors represented in There is evidence that the ball game may tooned with carved skulls and eagles tearing
Information the doorway carvings at the top of the tem- have changed over the years. Some carvings open the chests of men to eat their hearts. In
The western entrance has a large parking lot ple. You won’t get to see these temple-top show players with padding on their elbows ancient days this platform was used to display
and a big visitors center. Facilities include carvings as you are not allowed to ascend and knees, and it is thought that they played the heads of sacrificial victims.
two bookstores with a good assortment of the pyramid. a soccerlike game with a hard rubber ball, with
guides and maps, a restaurant serving de- The structure is actually a massive the use of hands forbidden. Other carvings Plataforma de las Águilas y los Jaguares
cent if somewhat pricey food, a Banamex Maya calendar formed in stone. Each of El show players wielding bats; it appears that if Adjacent to the tzompantli, the carvings on
ATM, Telmex card phones, excellent free Castillo’s nine levels is divided in two by a a player hit the ball through one of the stone the Platform of the Eagles and Jaguars depict
bathrooms and, around the corner from the staircase, making 18 separate terraces that hoops, his team was declared the winner. It those animals gruesomely grabbing human
ticket counter, a free guardaequipaje (room commemorate the 18 20-day months of the may be that during the Toltec period the los- hearts in their claws. It is thought that this
for storing luggage) where you can leave Maya vague year. The four stairways have ing captain, and perhaps his teammates as platform was part of a temple dedicated to
your belongings while you explore the site. 91 steps each; add the top platform and the well, were sacrificed (and you thought your the military legions responsible for capturing
As at most sites, filming with a video total is 365, the number of days in the year. dad was hard on you in Little League). sacrificial victims.
camera costs M$35 extra, and tripods re- On each façade of the pyramid are 52 flat Along the walls of the ball court are stone
quire a special permit from Mexico City. panels, which are reminders of the 52 years reliefs, including scenes of decapitations of Cenote Sagrado
Hold on to your wristband ticket; it gives in the Maya calendar round. See boxed text, players. The court exhibits some interesting From the tzompantli, a 300m rough stone
you in-and-out privileges and admission p43, for more on the Maya calendar. acoustics – a conversation at one end can road runs north (a five-minute walk) to the
to that evening’s sound-and-light show. To top it off, during the spring and au- be heard 135m away at the other, and a clap huge sunken well that gave this city its name.
Explanatory plaques around the site are in tumn equinoxes, light and shadow form a produces multiple loud echoes. The Sacred Cenote is an awesome natural
Spanish, English and Maya. series of triangles on the side of the north well, some 60m in diameter and 35m deep.
The 45-minute sound-and-light show staircase that mimic the creep of a serpent Templo del Barbado & Templo de los The walls between the summit and the wa-
in Spanish begins at 8pm each evening in (note the carved serpent’s heads flanking the Jaguares y Escudos ter’s surface are ensnared in tangled vines and
summer and 7pm in winter. It costs M$30 bottom of the staircase). The structure at the northern end of the ball other vegetation. There are ruins of a small
if you don’t already have a ruins wristband, The older pyramid inside El Castillo court, called the Temple of the Bearded Man steam bath next to the cenote, as well as a
and it counts toward the admission price boasts a red jaguar throne with inlaid eyes after a carving inside of it, has some finely modern drinks stand with toilets. See boxed
the following day. Devices for listening to and spots of jade; also lying behind the sculpted pillars and reliefs of flowers, birds text, above, for the historical details.
English, French, German or Italian transla- screen is a chac-mool figure. The entrance and trees. The Temple of the Jaguars and
tions (beamed via infrared) rent for M$25. to El Túnel, the passage up to the throne, is Shields, built atop the southeast corner of Grupo de las Mil Columnas
Specify the language you need or it may not at the base of El Castillo’s north side. You the ball court’s wall, has some columns with This group to the east of El Castillo takes its
be broadcast. can’t go in, though. carved rattlesnakes and tablets with etched name, which means ‘Group of the Thousand
 190 E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • C h i c h é n I t z á lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • C h i c h é n I t z á 191

Columns’, from the forest of pillars stretch- Edificio de las Monjas & La Iglesia Small cascades of water plunge from the Be warned that the cave is unusually hot,
ing south and east. The star attraction here Thought by archaeologists to have been a pal- high limestone roof, which is ringed by green- and ventilation is poor in its further reaches.
is the Templo de los Guerreros (Temple of the ace for Maya royalty, the so-called Edificio de ery. A good buffet lunch costs an extra M$120 The lack of oxygen (especially after a few
Warriors), adorned with stucco and stone- las Monjas (Nunnery), with its myriad rooms, (beverages extra). Get your swim in by no groups have already passed through) makes
carved animal deities. At the top of its steps resembled a European convent to the con- later than 1pm to beat the tour groups. The it difficult to draw a full breath until you’re
is a classic reclining chac-mool figure – you’re quistadors, hence their name for the building. grounds also hold five lovely cabanas (up to 8 outside again.
no longer allowed to ascend to it. The building’s dimensions are imposing: its people M$1000-2000; a) with Jacuzzi.
Many of the columns in front of the base is 60m long, 30m wide and 20m high. Sleeping
temple are carved with figures of warriors. The construction is Maya rather than Toltec, GRUTAS DE BALANKANCHÉ Don’t hesitate to haggle for a bed in the low
Archaeologists working in 1926 discovered although a Toltec sacrificial stone stands in In 1959 a guide to the Chichén ruins was ex- season (May, June, September and October),
a Temple of Chac-Mool lying beneath the front. A smaller adjoining building to the east, ploring a cave on his day off when he came when prices drop. Hwy 180 is known as Calle
Temple of the Warriors. known as La Iglesia (The Church), is covered upon a narrow passageway. He followed the 15A on its way through Pisté.
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
You can walk through the columns on its almost entirely with carvings. Currently, on passageway for 300m, meandering through a
south side to reach the Columnata Noreste, nota- the far side at the back there are some pas- series of caverns. In each, perched on mounds BUDGET
ble for the ‘big-nosed god’ masks on its façade. sageways that are still open, leading a short amid scores of glistening stalactites, were hun- Pirámide Inn (%851-0115; www.chichen.com; Calle 15A No
Some have been reassembled on the ground way into the labyrinth inside. They are dank, dreds of ceremonial treasures the Maya had 30; per person hammock or tent sites M$40, d M$410;as)
around the statue. Just to the south are the slippery, smell of bat urine and it’s easy to placed there 800 years earlier: ritual metates Next to the eastern bus stop in Pisté. They’re
remains of the Baño de Vapor (Steam Bath or twist an ankle, but Indiana Jones wannabes and manos (grinding stones), incense burners into world peace here, and so are we! Campers
Sweat House) with an underground oven and will think it’s totally cool. and pots. In the years following the discovery, can pitch a tent or hang a hammock under a
drains for the water. The sweat houses were the ancient ceremonial objects were removed palapa, enjoy the inn’s pool and watch satel-
regularly used for ritual purification. Akab-Dzib and studied. Eventually most of them were re- lite TV in the lobby. Campers also have use
East of the Nunnery, the Puuc-style Akab- turned to the caves, and placed exactly where of tepid showers, clean shared toilet facilities
El Osario Dzib is thought by some archaeologists to be they were found. and a safe place to stow gear. The 42 spacious
The Ossuary, otherwise known as the the most ancient structure excavated here. The turnoff for the caverns (admission Mon- rooms have good bathrooms and two spring-
Bonehouse or the Tumba del Gran Sacerdote The central chambers date from the 2nd Sat M$54, Sun M$20;hticket booth 9am-5pm) is 5km me-to-the-moon double beds. The hotel also
(High Priest’s Grave), is a ruined pyramid to century. The name means ‘Obscure Writing’ east of Chichén Itzá (about 5km southeast has a book exchange, swimming pool, Maya-
the southwest of El Castillo. As with most of in Maya and refers to the south-side annex of Cenote Ik Kil) on the highway to Cancún. style sweat lodge, and a restaurant serving
the buildings in this southern section, the door, whose lintel depicts a priest with a vase Second-class buses heading east from Pisté international and vegetarian cuisine. You’re
architecture is more Puuc than Toltec. It’s etched with hieroglyphics that have never toward Valladolid and Cancún will drop you as close as you can get to the ruins for cheap,
notable for the beautiful serpent heads at the been translated. at the Balankanché road. The entrance to the though it’s still a hike of about 3km. Animals
base of its staircases. A square shaft at the caves is 350m north of the highway. are welcome.
top of the structure leads into a cave beneath Chichén Viejo Outside the caves you’ll find a good botani- Posada Olalde (%851-0086; cnr Calles 6 & 17; s/d
it that was used as a burial chamber; seven Old Chichén comprises largely unrestored cal garden (displaying native Yucatecan flora M$200/250, bungalows M$200) Two blocks south of
tombs with human remains were discovered ruins, scattered about and hidden in the bush with information on the medicinal and other the highway by Artesanías Guayacán, this is
inside. These days a snack bar with telephone south of the Nunnery. The predominant ar- uses of the trees and plants), a small museum, the best of Pisté’s several posadas (inns). It
and toilets stands nearby. chitecture is Maya, with Toltec additions and a shop selling cold drinks and souvenirs, and has clean, quiet and attractive rooms, a few
modifications. At the time of research, the a ticket booth with free luggage storage. The twiddling parakeets and four decent-sized
El Caracol public was not allowed to enter the area. museum features large photographs taken bungalows. Some toilets are missing seats.
Called El Caracol (The Snail) by the during the exploration of the caves, and de- All accommodations are fan-cooled (though
Spaniards for its interior spiral staircase, this CENOTE IK KIL scriptions (in English, Spanish and French) there were plans to install air-con), and the
observatory, to the south of the Ossuary, is About 3km east of the eastern entrance to of the Maya religion and the offerings found friendly manager speaks Spanish and English,
one of the most fascinating and important Chichén Itzá is the turnoff for Ik Kil Parque in the caves. Also on display are photographs as well as some German and Maya.
of all Chichén Itzá’s buildings (but, alas, you Ecoarqueológico (%858-1525; adult/child M$60/30; of modern-day Maya ceremonies called Ch’a Posada Poxil (% 851-0116; Calle 15A; s/d/tr
can’t enter it). Its circular design resembles h8am-6pm), whose cenote has been devel- Chaac, which continue to be held in all the vil- M$150/200/250) At the western end of Pisté, this
some central highlands structures, although, oped into an OK swimming spot. For anyone lages on the Yucatán Peninsula during times posada has seven bright and cheery rooms
surprisingly, not those of Toltec Tula. In a who’s visited some of the other cenotes this of drought and consist mostly of praying and with good light, towels that have seen better
fusion of architectural styles and religious will seem touristy, dirty and expensive; those making numerous offerings of food to Chac. days, and fans. There’s also an inexpensive
imagery, there are Maya Chac rain-god who’re heading back to Cancún or anyone Compulsory 40-minute tours (minimum restaurant serving big breakfasts (M$35)
masks over four external doors facing the with mobility difficulties will probably enjoy six people, maximum 20) have melodramatic and Yucatecan dishes. The hot water is ‘solar
cardinal points. The windows in the ob- peeking, as it offers some idea of what makes recorded narration that is nearly impossible heated,’ not a bit warmer than tepid. Alas no
servatory’s dome are aligned with the ap- cenotes so unusual and there are good stairs to make out and is not very informative, toilet seats!
pearance of certain stars at specific dates. with some handrails. As with other cenotes but if you’d like it in a particular language, Posada Chac-Mool (%851-0270; Calle 15A; s/d with
From the dome the priests decreed the in the region, do not pull on the roots that English is at 11am, 1pm and 3pm; Spanish fan M$200/270, with air-con M$350/410; a) Just east of
times for rituals, celebrations, corn-planting hang down into the water. It took them a long is at 9am, noon, 2pm and 4pm; and French Hotel Chichén Itzá and on the opposite (south)
and harvests. time to get there. is at 10am. side of the highway in Pisté, Chac-Mool has
 192 E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • C h i c h é n I t z á Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • Va l l a d o l i d 193

fairly basic doubles with good screens. Some cheapest are the market stalls on the main If you plan to see the ruins and then head finally overcome. Many fled to the safety of
rooms have air-con to augment the fans. plaza opposite the large tree. directly to another city by 1st-class bus, buy Mérida; the rest were slaughtered.
Restaurant Sayil (% 851-0033; mains M$35- your bus ticket at the visitors center before Today Valladolid is a prosperous seat of
MIDRANGE 70; h 7am-9pm) A recently renovated old hitting the ruins, for a better chance of get- agricultural commerce, augmented by some
Pirámide Inn (%851-0115; www.chichen.com; Calle 15A standby, with a pleasant garden and simple ting a seat. light industry and a growing tourist trade.
No 30; d M$410;as) See the review on p191. but tasty regional fare. It’s attached to the There is a taxi stand near the west end of Many Vallisetanos speak Spanish with the soft
Hotel Chichén Itzá (%985-851-0022; fax 985-851- new Felix Inn. town; the price to the ruins is M$25. There are and clear Maya accent.
0023; www.mayaland.com; Calle 15A No 45; r fan only M$300, Xunan (%851-0131; Calle Principal s/n; mains M$40-90; usually taxis at Chichén’s parking lot.
r M$600-1000; asc) On the west side of h7am-9pm) Service is a bit slow, but this color- Orientation & Information
Pisté, this hotel has 42 pleasant rooms with ful eatery (at the front of a souvenir stand) VALLADOLID The old highway passes through the town
tiled floors and old-style brick-tiled ceilings. offers good food at reasonable prices and is a %985 / pop 45,868 center, though most signs urge motorists
Rooms in the upper range face the pool and nice change from the tourist buffets. Portions Also known as the Sultaness of the East, toward the toll road north of town. To fol-
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
the nicely landscaped grounds, and all have are generous. Yucatán’s third-largest city is known for its low the old highway eastbound, take Calle
firm beds and minibars. Parents may bring Restaurant Hacienda Xaybe’h (%851-0039; buffet quiet streets and sun-splashed, pastel walls. 41; westbound, take Calle 39. To preserve
two kids under 13 years for free. lunch & dinner M$110; h7:30am-6:30pm; vc) Set a She certainly is one sultry babe, and it’s worth the colonial flavor of the town center,
block back from the highway opposite Hotel staying here for a few days or even a week Valladolid has limited the posting of signs
Chichén Itzá, this is a large, rather fancy place as the provincial town makes a great hub by businesses to those approved by the city.
TOP END
with nice grounds. It’s popular with tours for visits to Río Lagartos, Chichén Itzá, Ek’ This can sometimes make it difficult to
All of these hotels are close to the archaeologi- and the food is a bit overpriced; the selection
cal zone’s eastern entrance. Balam and a number of nearby cenotes. The find an establishment; you need to keep a
of salads makes it a good option for vegetar- city resides at that magic point where there’s keen eye out for small cardboard signs on
Club Med Villas Arqueológicas (% 856-6000, ians. Diners can use the swimming pool free
in the USA 800-514-8244; www.clubmed.com; d/tr/ste
plenty to do, yet it still feels small, manage- open doors.
of charge! able and affordable. Slow down for a day by Various banks (most with ATMs) near
M$810/1010/1370; as) A Club Med hotel,
this is 300m from the east entrance. It is an renting a bicycle and tootle out to the nearby the town center are generally open 9am to
Getting There & Away cenotes. Sit on a bench in one of the many 5pm Monday to Friday and 9am to 1pm
exact clone of the villas at Cobá and Uxmal, Oriente has ticket offices near the east and
a walled hacienda-style complex sporting a squares and watch men play board games Saturday. The main plaza, Parque Francisco
west sides of Pisté, and 2nd-class buses pass- or kids chase pigeons. Buy a dollar’s worth Cantón Rosado, has banks of Telmex card
profusion of red floor tiles, a library with bil- ing through town stop almost anywhere along
liard table, and 40 smallish but comfortable of fresh tortillas and let an afternoon pass phones in each corner.
the way. Many 1st-class buses only hit the lazily by. High-speed internet is available at nu-
rooms recently upgraded with nice touches ruins and the west side of town, close to the
of marble and tile. merous small cafés in and around the town
toll highway. History center; all charge around M$10 per hour and
Hacienda Chichén (%in Mérida 999-924-2150, in the When they’re running on schedule, Oriente’s Valladolid has seen its fair share of tur- are open 9am-ish to as late as midnight.
USA 800-624-8451; www.haciendachichen.com; d M$1700- 2nd-class buses pass through Pisté bound for moil and revolt. The city was first founded Hospital Valladolid (%856-2883; cnr Calles 49 &
2200; as) About 300m from the ruins’ Mérida (M$52, 2½ hours) hourly between in 1543 near the Chouac-Ha lagoon some 52; h24hr) Near the Convento de Sisal, it handles
entrance, this is on the grounds of a 16th- 8:15am and 4:15pm. Hourly Oriente buses to 50km from the coast, but it was too hot and emergencies.
century estate. The hacienda’s elegant main Valladolid (M$36, 50 minutes) and Cancún there were way too many mosquitoes for Main post office (cnr Calles 39 & 40;h8:30am-3pm
house and ruined walls make a great setting, (M$80, 4½ hours) pass between 7am and Francisco de Montejo, nephew of Montejo Mon-Fri)
and huge ceiba trees offer welcome shade. 5:30pm. There is a service to Cobá (M$52, 1½ the Elder, and his merry band of conquerors. Tourist office (h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-noon Sun)
The archaeologists who excavated Chichén hours) as well. So they upped and moved the city to the Maya On the east side of the plaza, it is frequently unattended
during the 1920s lived here in bungalows, First-class buses serve Mérida (M$80, 1¾ ceremonial center of Zací (sah-kee), where and provides mediocre information.
which have been refurbished and augmented hours, 2:25pm and 5pm), Cancún (M$140, 2½
with new ones. they faced heavy resistance from the local
hours, 4:30pm), Tulum (M$101, 2½ hours, Maya. Eventually the Elder’s son – Montejo Sights
Hotel Mayaland (%851-0100, in the USA 800-235- 8am and 4:30pm) and Playa del Carmen
4079; www.mayaland.com; d/ste/royal ste M$1700/2500/ the Younger – ultimately took the town. The TEMPLO DE SAN BERNARDINO &
(M$180, four hours). Spanish conquerors, in typical fashion, ripped CONVENTO DE SISAL
3450;as) Less than 100m from the ruins’ Shared vans to Valladolid (M$20, 40 min-
entrance – from the lobby and front rooms down the town and laid out a new city follow- The Templo de San Bernardino (Church of San
utes) pass through town regularly. ing the classic colonial plan. Bernardino; h8am-noon & 5-9pm) and the Convento
you can look out at El Caracol. The rooms,
pools and garden bungalows are nicely built During much of the colonial era, Valladolid’s de Sisal are about 700m southwest of the
and well appointed, but when you’re at El
Getting Around physical isolation from Mérida kept it rela- plaza. They were constructed between 1552
During Chichén Itzá’s opening hours, 1st- tively autonomous from royal rule, and the and 1560 to serve the dual functions of for-
Caracol you’ll wish the management hadn’t
and 2nd-class buses serve the ruins (check Maya of the area suffered brutal exploitation, tress and church.
cut an ugly swath through the jungle just so
with the driver), and they will take passen- which continued after Mexican independence. You may have to knock on the church’s
hotel patrons could have a nicer view.
gers from town for about M$6 when there’s Barred from entering many areas of the city, left-hand door to gain admittance, or some-
room. For a bit more, 2nd-class buses will the Maya made Valladolid one of their first one may approach and offer you a short
Eating also take you to the Cenote Ik Kil and the points of attack following the 1847 outbreak tour in exchange for a gratuity. Either way,
The highway through Pisté is lined with Grutas de Balankanché (be sure to specify of the War of the Castes (p36) in Tepich. After it’s worth peeking inside. Its charming deco-
more than 20 eateries, large and small. The your destination when buying your ticket). a two-month siege, the city’s defenders were ration includes beautiful rose-colored walls,
 194 E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • Va l l a d o l i d lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • Va l l a d o l i d 195

A bit more enticing but less accessible is hostel card or ISIC M$80/88, d M$160/200; i) The HI-
VALLADOLID 0
0
400 m
0.2 miles
Cenote Dzitnup (Xkekén; admission M$25; h8am-5pm), affiliated hostel was closed when we passed
A B C D 7km west of the plaza. It’s artificially lit and through, but locals said it would be reopening.
INFORMATION
To Ek Balam (27.5km); very swimmable, and a massive limestone Prices were last updated in 2006.
Tizimín (51km);
Banamex..................................1 C3 Cancún (toll, 158km); Calle 31 formation dripping with stalactites hangs Antonio ‘Negro’ Aguilar (%856-2125; Calle 44 btwn
Bancomer................................2 C2 Mérida (toll, 160km)
1 Hospital Valladolid...................3 A4
from its ceiling. Across the road about 100m Calles 39 & 41; r M$150) This cantankerous old char-
Main Post Office......................4 C2 closer to town is Cenote Samulá (admission M$25; acter rents the cheapest separate rooms in
Tourist Office..........................5 C3
Calle 33 h8am-6pm), a lovely cavern pool with álamo town, and they are actually pretty clean. For
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES roots stretching down many meters from the details, stop by his bike-rental shop (p196),

Calle 40
Catedral de San Gervasio.........6 C3
middle of the ceiling to drink from it. The which is not so clean.

Calle 34
Cenote Zací.............................7 D2
Convento de Sisal..................(see 9) Iglesia de la
Candelaria
10 ejido (indigenous communal landholding) Hotel María Guadalupe (%856-2068; hotelmaria
Museo de San Roque...............8 D3 Calle 35
Templo de San Bernardino.......9 A4 Park that maintains both cenotes charges M$35 for [email protected]; Calle 44 No 198A; d/tr M$220/270)
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
Calle 44

Calle 38

Calle 36
To Mercado
use of a video camera in either one.

Calle 42
Municipal This airy hotel has eight simple and clean
Calle 37 (50m)
25 Pedaling a rented bicycle (see p196) to the fan-cooled rooms, which though a bit dark
To Cenote Samulá (6.5km); Calle 37 cenotes takes about 20 minutes. By bike from
Calle 48

2 Cenote Dzitnup (7km); are not musty. The management is friendly

Chichén Itzá (40km);
Mérida (160km) 16
Park the town center take Calle 41A (Calzada de los and provides purified water. There’s a nice
22 7
24
19 27 12 17
Frailes), a street lined entirely with colonial common area upstairs to meet fellow travelers
Calle 39
28 13 Parque 4
architecture, which leads past the Templo de or sip something cold after a hot day.
11
Francisco
Cantón
2 Iglesia
Santa
San Bernardino and the convent. Keep to the Hotel Zací (%/fax 856-2167; www.hotelzaci.com;
26
14 21
Rosado
5 8 Park
Ana right of the park, then turn right on Calle 49. Calle 44 No 191; s/d/tr with fan M$240/350/410, with air-
23
18 1 6
Calle 41 This opens onto tree-lined Avenida de los con M$340/400/450; s) Someone here really
15 To Cancún
Calle 52

Frailes and hits the old highway. Turn left

Calle 46

(158km) loves calla lilies. The 60 rooms with mock-

Calle 50

To Felipe Carrillo

i les
) Puerto (175km) onto the ciclopista (bike path) paralleling the colonial décor are spread around a green
Calle 43
3 Fra road to Mérida. Turn left again at the sign for
Calle 43 el
os
20
courtyard. Some rooms are a bit musty, but
A ad Dzitnup and continue for just under 2km;
lzad they air out.
(Ca
41
A SLEEPING Samulá will be off this road to the right and
lle Alberque La Candelaria..........10 C2 Calle 45
Ca Dzitnup a little further on the left. MIDRANGE
Antonio 'Negro' Aguilar.........11 C2
El Mesón del Marqués...........12 C2 ENTERTAINMENT Shared vans from in front of Hotel María The hotels listed here have restaurants, free
Hotel María de la Luz.............13 C2 La Chispa de 1910...........................21 C3
Hotel María Guadalupe..........14 C3 Guadalupe (on Calle 44) go to Dzitnup for secure parking facilities and swimming
Park
Ca
Hotel San Clemente...............15 C3 TRANSPORT Calle 47 M$10. Taxis from Valladolid’s main plaza pools.
9 lle Hotel Zací...............................16 B2 ADO Bus Terminal............................22 B2
47 Antonio 'Negro' Aguilar TR............(see 11) charge M$100 for the round-trip excursion Hotel San Clemente (%/fax 856-2208; www.hotel
3 EATING Colectivos to Cancún.......................23 C3 to Dzitnup and Samulá, with an hour’s wait. sanclemente.com.mx; Calle 42 No 206; s/d/tr with fan
Ca Bazar Municipal.....................17 C2 Colectivos to Mérida......................(see 22)
4 To
Bike Path (100m);
lle
49 Hostería del Marqués...........(see 12) Colectivos to Pisté & Chichén Itzá.....24 B2 You also can hop aboard a westbound bus; ask M$300/360/410, with air-con M350/390/470;as )
Calle 49
Cenotes (5km) Panificadora El Cielo...............18 B3 Colectivos to Santa Rita the driver to let you off at the Dzitnup turnoff,
Calle 52

Offers good value and boasts 64 rooms with

B
48

Squimoz.................................19 B2 (for Ek' Balam)............................. 25 C2

then walk the final 2km (20 to 30 minutes) to
lle
0

optional air-con and décor nearly identical

5

Colectivos to Tizimín........................26 C2
Ca
lle

DRINKING Taxi Stand........................................27 C2

Ca

the site. Dzitnup has a restaurant and drinks

48

El Atrio...................................20 C3 Tres Hermanos.................................28 C2

to the Zací’s, minus the calla lilies. The bath-
lle
Ca

stand. Otherwise, bring a picnic. rooms are a bit dirty, but it’s still a solid deal.
There’s a central courtyard.
arches, some recently uncovered 16th-century MUSEO DE SAN ROQUE MERCADO MUNICIPAL Hotel María de la Luz (%/fax 856-2071; www.maria
frescoes and a small image of the Virgin on Previously a church, the Museo de San Roque On Calle 32, this is a good, authentic Mexican delaluzhotel.com; Calle 42 No 193; d/tr/q M$400/480/520;
the altar. These are about the only original (Calle 41 btwn Calles 38 & 40; admission free; h9am-9pm) market where locals come to shop for cheap as) The beds are a bit concave and damp,
items remaining; the grand wooden retablo has models and exhibits relating the his- clothing, homewares, meat, produce and but if the Zací or San Clemente are full, you
(altarpiece) dates from the 19th century. The tory of the city and the region. Other dis- what-have-you, and to eat at inexpensive might want to check out this spot. The restau-
adjacent convent is often closed to the pub- plays focus on various aspects of traditional taquerías. The east side is the most colorful, rant is actually pretty good, and serves marga-
lic; your best bets for gaining entrance to Maya life. with flowers and stacks of fruit and vegeta- ritas that (at least initially) pack a punch.
it are during the vacation periods of Easter bles on offer. Most of the activity takes place El Mesón del Marqués (%856-2073; fax 856-2280;
week, August and Christmas (December 14 CENOTES between 6am and 2pm. www.mesondelmarques.com; Calle 39 No 203; d standard/
to January 6). It’s well worth a visit. The Among the region’s several underground superior M$580/710; as) It’s only worth stay-
walled grounds hold a cenote with a vaulted cenotes is Cenote Zací (Calle 36, enter from Calle 39; Sleeping ing in this hotel if you’re willing to up
dome built over it and a system of channels admission M$25; h8am-6pm), set in a park that Most hotels are on or near the main plaza, the ante for the superior rooms with their
that once irrigated the large garden. also holds traditional stone-walled thatched Parque Francisco Cantón Rosado. crispy-clean bedspreads, quaint blue-and-
If you’re arriving by bicycle, note that houses and a small zoo. People swim in Zací, yellow tilework and firm mattresses. There’s
it’s prohibited to ride on the wide con- though being mostly open it contains some BUDGET also a charming old courtyard and the fine
crete paths leading from the street to the dust and algae. Look in the water for catfish Albergue La Candelaria (%/fax 856-2267; fidery Hostería del Marqués restaurant (p196), and
church. or overhead for a bat or two. @chichen.com.mx; Calle 35 No 201F; dm with/without wi-fi is available.
 196 E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • E k ’ B a l a m lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • Ti z i m í n 197

Eating & Drinking Expresso (2nd class), and ADO and Super holds a ‘gallery,’ actually a series of separate Getting There & Away
Valladolid has a few good bakeries, including Expresso (1st class). chambers. Built atop the base is Ek’ Balam’s It’s possible to catch a colectivo from Calle 44
Panificadora El Cielo (Calle 41 btwn Calles 44 & 46; breads Cancún (M$70 to M$110, two to three hours, many buses) massive main pyramid, reaching a height of between Calles 35 and 37 in Valladolid for Ek’
M$2-10; h7am-noon & 3-9pm). Chetumal (M$140, six hours, five Mayab buses) 32m and sporting a huge jaguar mouth with Balam (M$30). A round-trip taxi ride from
Bazar Municipal (cnr Calles 39 & 40) This place is Chichén Itzá/Pisté (M$36, 45 minutes, 14 Oriente 360-degree dentition. Below the mouth are Valladolid with an hour’s wait at the ruins
a collection of market-style cookshops at the Mérida-bound buses between 7:15am and 5:30pm) Buses stucco skulls, while above and to the right will cost around M$250.
plaza’s northeast corner, popular for their big, stop near ruins during opening hours. sits an amazingly expressive figure. On the
cheap breakfasts. At lunch and dinner some Chiquilá (for Isla Holbox) (M$70, 2½ hours, Oriente right side stand unusual winged human fig- TIZIMÍN
offer comidas corridas (set meals) – check the bus at 2:45am) ures (some call them Maya angels), whose %986 / pop 44,151
price before you order. El Amigo Casiano, on Cobá (M$26, 45 minutes, four buses) hands are poised in gestures looking for all Tizimín is dusty and ‘authentic,’ meaning that
the left side nearly at the back, is good, super- Izamal (M$41, two hours, two buses at 12:45pm and the world like Hindu/Buddhist mudras (ritual you won’t find much here that’s designed with
cheap and always crowded; it’s closed for the 3:50pm) hand movements used in Hindu religious the tourist in mind. That doesn’t make it less
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
day by 2pm. Lonchería Canul, at the very Mérida (M$74 to M$110, two to three hours, many buses) dancing; also gesture of Buddha figure). It’s of a place to investigate, however, and some
back, stays open much later and serves good Playa del Carmen (M$78 to M$140, 2½ to 3½ hours, enough to make you wonder, either about travelers may find Tizimín a refreshing change
food accompanied by tasty salsas. eight buses) connections between ancient civilizations or if they’ve just come from Playa del Carmen
Squimoz (%856-4156; Calle 39 No 219 btwn Calles 44 & Tizimín (M$20, one hour, 12 buses) the artistic license taken by the restoration or Cancún. Most travelers will be bound for
46; mains M$20-50; h7am-10pm Mon-Sat, 7am-3pm Sun) Tulum (M$47 to M$60, two hours, six buses) crew, though much of the plaster is supposed Río Lagartos, San Felipe and Isla Holbox, as
A delightful little shop just a few doors east of to be original. there isn’t much that warrants an overnight
the ADO bus terminal, Squimoz offers cakes, COLECTIVOS The view from the top of the pyramid is stay. Still, the tree-filled Parque Principal is
pastries and good espresso drinks, and has a Often faster, more reliable and more comfort- fantastic as well. Across the flat terrain you pleasant, particularly at sundown.
nice rear courtyard. Its rich, creamy flan is able than 2nd-class buses are the colectivos can make out the pyramids of Chichén Itzá The city fills with people from outlying
one of Yucatán’s best. that leave for various points as soon as their and Cobá. ranches during its annual fair to celebrate Día
Hostería del Marqués (%856-2073; El Mesón del seats are filled. Most operate from 7am or 8am From the Ek’ Balam parking lot you can de los Reyes Magos (Three Kings’ Day), which
Marqués, Calle 39 No 203; mains M$50-130;h7am-11pm) to about 7pm. Direct services to Mérida (from visit the X-Canche Cenote (%985-107-4774; admis- lasts from January 1 to 15.
Probably the best restaurant in town for lunch the ADO bus terminal; M$60) and Cancún sion M$30, bike rental M$70, bike, rappel & kayak tour M$110; Two great colonial structures – Parroquia
and dinner, where you can dine in the tranquil (from in front of the cathedral; M$70) take a h8am-5pm). It’s worth the extra dough to take Los Santos Reyes de Tizimín (Church of the Three
colonial courtyard with its bubbling fountain, little over two hours – confirm they’re non- the fun rappel and kayak tour. Wise Kings) and its former Franciscan monas-
or the air-con salon looking onto it. It also stop, though. Colectivos for Pisté and Chichén The town of Ek’ Balam itself is worth a tery (the ex-convento) – are worth having a
offers some vegetarian choices, and steaks Itzá (M$20, 40 minutes) leave across the road visit, if only to see what a fairly traditional look while you’re waiting for your bus con-
priced by weight. from the ADO bus terminal, and for Tizimín Maya village looks like. There are two nice nection. They’re on opposite sides of Calle
El Atrio (Calle 42 No 205; drinks M$10-40; h6pm- from the east side of the main plaza. Colectivos hotels, as well as a handful of artisan stands 51, reached by walking two blocks south on
midnight) This new café and grill has a very chill for Ek’ Balam (M$30) leave from Calle 44, along the main plaza, which also serves as the Calle 48, which itself is a block west of the
atmosphere with comfy sofas in a colonial- between Calles 35 and 37. town’s soccer field. bus terminals.
era casona (large old house). There’s a patio The church fronts Tizimín’s main plaza,
out back. Getting Around Sleeping & Eating the Parque Principal, which has an HBSC
Bicycles are a great way to see the town and oGenesis Eco-Retreat (%985-852-7980; www with ATM and currency exchange on its
Entertainment get out to the cenotes. Tres Hermanos (Calle 44 btwn .genesisretreat.com; d M$400-600; insv) The southwest side.
Following a centuries-old tradition, dances Calles 39 & 41; h7:30am-8pm Mon-Sat, 7:30am-2pm Sun) Genesis Eco-Retreat offers B&B intimacy
are held in the main plaza from 8pm to and Antonio ‘Negro’ Aguilar (%856-2125; h7am- in a quiet, ecofriendly setting. This is a true Sleeping & Eating
9pm Sunday, with music by the munici- 7pm) rent bikes for about M$8 per hour. If you ecotel: gray water is used for landscaping, Posada María Antonia (%863-2857; Calle 50 No 408;
pal band or other local groups. This is want a motor behind your wheels, taxis charge some rooms are naturally cooled, insects are r with air-con M$220; a) Just south of the church,
not aimed at tourists, though they’re more M$100 per hour. controlled by a crack squadron of mosquito- it has 12 bare-bones rooms, each holding up
than welcome. hating ducks and there’s even an entire to four people.
La Chispa de 1910 (%856-2668; Calle 41 No 201; EK’ BALAM wall made out of plastic bottles. The place Hotel San Carlos (%863-2094; hsancarlos@hotmail
h5pm-1am Mon-Thu, 5pm-2am Fri-Sun) Sparks fly The turnoff for fascinating Ek’ Balam (admis- is postcard-beautiful – there’s a chilling dip .com; Calle 54 No 407, btwn Calles 51 & 53; r with air-con
at this bar-restaurant that often features live sion M$27, guide M$250;h8am-5pm) is 17km north pool and temescal steam bath on-site – and M$290; a) Two blocks west of the plaza, this
music. Test your pipes by singing ‘Besame of Valladolid, from where the archaeologi- offers delicious veggie meals. The hotel is is the nicest hotel in town. All the air-con
Mucho’ on karaoke nights (Thursday cal site is a further 6km east. Vegetation still sometimes closed between September and rooms have private patios looking onto the
to Saturday). covers much of the area, but excavations and early October. shared garden area.
restoration continue to add to the sights, in- Dolcemente Ek’ Balam (%/fax 045-985-103-6073; Market (cnr Calles 47 & 48) The market, half a
Getting There & Away cluding an interesting ziggurat-like structure [email protected]; d M$500) It lacks a bit block west of the Noreste bus terminal, has
BUS near the entrance, as well as a fine arch and of soul, but Dolcemente does have a fine col- the usual cheap eateries.
Valladolid’s main bus terminal is the con- a ball court. lection of super-clean fan-cooled rooms. The Pizzería César’s (Calle 50; pizza M$30-60, mains M$60-
venient ADO bus terminal (cnr Calles 39 & 46). The Most impressive is the gargantuan Acrópolis, yummy restaurant specializes in (you guessed 110; h8am-1am) A popular joint near the Posada
principal services are Oriente, Mayab and whose well-restored base is 160m long and it) Italian fare. María Antonia, it serves inexpensive pasta
 198 E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • R í o L a g a r t o s lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • E a s t o f R í o L a g a r t o s 199

dishes, sandwiches and burgers in addition Coloradas, a shallow part of the vast estuary
to pizza and steak. that stretches east almost to the border of CELEBRATING LA FERIA DE SANTIAGO AND DÍA DE LA MARINA
Quintana Roo. There they extracted precious Río Lagartos knows how to party, and two festivals, La Feria de Santiago and Día de la Marina,
Getting There & Away salt from the waters, a process that continues are well worth checking out. La Feria de Santiago, the patron-saint festival of Río Lagartos,
Oriente and Mayab, both offering 2nd-class on a much vaster scale today. Spanish explor- is held mid-July. A bullfight (really bullplay) ring is erected in the middle of town during the
services, share a bus terminal (Calle 47 btwn Calles 48 ers mistook the narrowing of the ría (estuary) weeklong event, and every afternoon anyone who wishes is able to enter it and play matador
& 46) just east of the market. Noreste bus terminal for a río (river) and the crocs for alligators, with a young bull. The animal is not killed or even injured, just made a little angry at times.
(Calle 46), offering 1st- and 2nd-class services, is and the rest is history. Hurricane Isadore de- Don’t turn your back to it or it will knock you down. Call a hotel in town to find out when the
just around the corner. stroyed much of the mangrove forest in 2002, festival is being held.
Cancún (M$85, three to 3½ hours, 15 Mayab and Noreste but it’s slowly recovering. Another big annual event in Río Lagartos is the Día de la Marina (Day of the Marine Force),
buses) Less than 1km east of town, on the edge of which is always on June 1. On this day, following 9am Mass, a crown of flowers is dedicated to
Izamal (M$55, 2½ hours, Oriente bus at 5:30am, 11am the estuary, a natural ojo de agua dulce (natu- the Virgin and is carried from the church to a boat, where it is then taken 4km out to sea and
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
and 4pm) ral spring) has been developed into a swim- placed in the water as an offering to all the fishermen who have perished at sea.
Mérida (M$83, 2½ to 3½ hours, 2nd-class Noreste buses ming hole. A sometimes-empty tourist kiosk The boats, not incidentally, are heavily decorated on this day, and tourists are welcome to ride
at 5:30am, 9am, 2:30pm, 4pm and 5pm) sits at the end of Calle 10 by the waterfront. to the site for free. Just ask if you can go, and be friendly and respectful. A tip for their kindness,
Río Lagartos/San Felipe (M$20 to M$25, one hour, six following the service, is always appreciated (M$50 to M$100 per visitor).
Noreste buses between 6am and 4:15pm, some colectivos) Orientation & Information
Some buses continue 12km west to San Felipe (same price). Most residents aren’t sure of the town’s street
Valladolid (M$20, one hour, 16 Oriente buses between names, and signs are few. The road into town If time permits, seek out Ismael Navarro Hotel Villas de Pescadores (%862-0020; villa_pes
5:30am and 7:30pm) is the north–south Calle 10, which ends at the ( % 862-0000; www.riolagartosexpeditions.com) or [email protected]; Calle 14 & Calle 9; d with fan/
waterfront Calle 13. There’s no bank or ATM Diego Núñez Martínez ([email protected]), two air-con M$400/500; a) Near the water’s edge, this
Taxis to Río Lagartos or San Felipe charge in town, so bring lots of cash. licensed guides with formal training as nice hotel offers nine very clean rooms, each
about M$250, and leave from outside both bus naturalists. They speak English, Spanish with good cross-ventilation (all face the es-
terminals. The drivers can be asked to wait for Flamingo, Shorebird & Wildlife Tours and Italian and are up to date on the fauna tuary), two beds and a fan. Upstairs rooms
you for M$100 per additional hour. The brilliant orange-red flamingos can and flora in the area, including the stag- have balconies, and there’s a rickety spiral
turn the horizon fiery when they take wing. gering number of bird species, for which staircase leading up to a rooftop lookout
RÍO LAGARTOS Depending on your luck, you’ll see either hun- they have books and the official Yucatán tower where adventurous guests can (careful
%986 / pop 2127 dreds or thousands of them. The best months Peninsula checklist. on those stairs!) watch the sun set or sip a
On the windy northern shore of the peninsula, for viewing them are June to August. The four Besides their flamingo expeditions, Ismael relaxing beverage. Guests planning on an early
sleepy Río Lagartos (Alligator River) is a fish- primary haunts, in increasing distance from takes four-hour shorebird tours along the morning flamingo trip can ask for breakfast
ing village that also boasts the densest concen- town, are Punta Garza, Yoluk, Necopal and mudflats in winter. Diego offers catch- to be prepared before they head off (an ad-
tration of flamingos in Mexico, supposedly Nahochín (all flamingo feeding spots named and-release fly-fishing trips for tarpon and ditional M$35 to M$60). The owner rents
two or three flamingos per Mexican, if one for nearby mangrove patches). snook, and can help with lodgings reserva- bicycles and canoes as well, and there’s a new
believes the math. Lying within the Reserva To see the flamingos, you’ll need to rent tions. Both also offer land tours for birding restaurant on-site.
de la Biósfera Ría Lagartos, this mangrove-lined a boat and driver. You’ll see more birdlife as well as night rides looking for crocodiles Restaurante-Bar Isla Contoy (Calle 19; mains
estuary also shelters 334 other species of resi- if you head out at sunrise or around 4pm. and, from May to September, sea turtles. M$50-100;h8am-9pm) A popular eatery at the
dent and migratory birds, including snowy Prices vary by boat, group size (maximum For M$200 you can get a boat to take you waterfront, this is a good place to meet
egrets, red egrets, tiger herons and snowy six) and destination. A one-hour trip costs across the lagoon for a couple of hours on other travelers and form groups for the
white ibis, as well as a small number of the around M$500, and two to three hours is the beach. boat tours. Lobster, at market price, is a
once-numerous crocodiles that gave the town M$700. In addition, the reserve charges visi- delicious specialty.
its name. It’s a beautiful area. At the right time tors a M$20 admission fee. Plan on pack- Sleeping & Eating
of year you can see numerous species of birds ing something to eat the night before, as Posada Las Gaviotas (%862-0507; Calle 12 with the Getting There & Away
without even getting out of your vehicle. most restaurants open long after you’ll be riverfront; d M$250) This simple budget option Several Noreste buses run daily between
The Maya knew the place as Holkobén on the water. right on the riverfront offers clean fan- Tizimín (M$20 to M$25, one hour), Mérida
and used it as a rest stop on their way to Las You can negotiate with one of the eager cooled rooms bathed in avocado green. (M$110, three to four hours) and San Felipe
men in the waterfront kiosks near the en- There are no toilet seats. (M$10, 20 minutes). Noreste and Mayab also
trance to town; it’s nearly impossible to get Posada Isla Contoy (%862-0000; www.riolagarto serve Cancún (M$120, three to four hours)
FLAMINGO ETIQUETTE through town without being approached expeditions.com; Calle 19 No 134, cnr Calle 14; s/d M$200/350; three times daily.
Although the sight of flamingos taking to by someone. They speak English and will a) Next to the restaurant Isla Contoy (ask
the wing is impressive, for the well-being connect you with a captain (who usually there to see the rooms), this hotel has five EAST OF RÍO LAGARTOS
of the birds, please ask your boat captain doesn’t). The best guides are to be found at very simple rooms. You can pay a bit extra The road between Río Lagartos and El Cuyo
not to frighten the birds into flight. You can Restaurante-Bar Isla Contoy (%862-0000); driving for the air-con, which doesn’t really work often washes out in rainy season, but it’s nor-
generally get to within 100m of the birds into town, turn left on Calle 19 at the sign anyway. That’s OK as there are fans over- mally passable in dry season (even with a non-
before they walk or fly away. for the restaurant-bar. From the bus termi- head and a boob box with local program- 4WD vehicle). Ask locally before you take the
nal, head to the water and turn left (west). ming to keep you company. trip (you’ll need your own wheels), which is
 © Lonely Planet Publications
200 E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • S a n Fe l i p e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com E A S T E R N Y U C AT Á N S TAT E • • S a n Fe l i p e 201

truly a birder’s delight. It’s best to take the has very simple and clean cabins occupy- Hotel San Felipe de Jesús (%862-2027; hotelsf@hot Six buses from Tizimín pass through Río
trip early in the morning, when you are likely ing a large swath of green grass that heads mail.com; d M$400-450, with balcony M$490) is a friendly, Lagartos and continue to San Felipe (M$20
to see egrets, blue heron, osprey and gaggles straight down to the beach. Some even have clean and cleverly constructed hotel at the to M$22, 1½ hours) each way. The bus ride
of pink flamingos. If you do stop to observe hot water and cable TV. La Cochinita res- edge of San Felipe’s harbor. To get there, turn from Río Lagartos (M$10) takes 20 minutes.
wildlife, be as quiet as possible and remember taurant is attached to the hotel and is quite left at the water and proceed about 200m. Six You can take a taxi from Tizimín to San
that there are crocodiles in the shallows, as popular with locals. of the 18 rooms are large and have private bal- Felipe for M$250, but you will possibly need
well as venomous snakes: don’t let that great You can get here by the coastal road east conies and water views (it’s definitely worth to arrange return pickup in advance or pay
roseate spoonbill photo opportunity send you from Río Lagartos. If the road is out, reach El the extra pesos for these rooms). The restau- the driver an hourly rate to wait until you’re
to the hospital. Cuyo by heading back towards Tizimín and rant offers good seafood at low prices. ready to return.
Start your trip by turning east at the junc- then turning left (east) at the first paved road,
tion about 2km south of Río Lagartos. About heading toward Yoactún. Follow this through
8km from the junction, on the south side of savanna-like grassy ranchland until you come
YUCATÁN STATE

YUCATÁN STATE
the road, is the beginning of a 1km interpretive to a T-junction at Colonia Yucatán. Head left
trail to Petén Tucha (a petén is a hummock (north) and you’ll arrive in El Cuyo.
or rise often forming around a spring). You At El Cuyo the road passes through broad
should register at the biosphere reserve’s office expanses of grassy savanna with palms and
near the junction before walking the trail. some huge-trunked trees, passing the site of
Continuing east on the road 4km beyond the original founding of Valladolid, in 1543.
the trailhead you’ll reach a bridge over a very At Colonia Yucatán, a little over 30km south
narrow part of the estuary. Fishermen cast of El Cuyo, you can head east to pick up the
nets here, and you can sometimes see crocs road to Chiquilá and Isla Holbox (or in the
lurking in the water (look for dead horseshoe opposite direction to Hwy 180) or west to
crabs on the bridge). Another 6km beyond Tizimín. Public transportation through all
this is Las Coloradas, a small town housing of this is scarce. Hitchhiking may be pos-
workers who extract salt from the vast shal- sible, but a rental car is by far the better
low lagoons of the same name that stretch way to go.
eastward for kilometers on the south side of
the road. The salt is piled in gleaming mounds SAN FELIPE
that look like icebergs, up to 15m high, and %986 / pop 1769
from a distance it appears oddly incongruous, San Felipe is a fishing village seldom visited
as if you’ve arrived in the Arctic despite the by travelers, about 12km west of Río Lagartos,
blistering heat. notable for its orderly streets, cheery
The road turns to sand after Las Coloradas, Caribbean feel and painted wooden houses.
but you can still make it to El Cuyo most With its laid-back air, this is a good alterna-
times of year. You may consider spending tive to staying in Río Lagartos. Getting there
a few Robinson Crusoe days on the beach you’ll pass primarily swampy mangrove-dot-
here, but the brown sands are pretty littered ted lagoons, and perhaps surprise a turtle or
with trash. The unique vegetation includes two crossing the road. Its beach lies across the
century plants, an agave species that lives mouth of the estuary, at Punta Holohit, and
quietly for decades before sending up a tall the mangroves there and on the western edge
stalk that blossoms, in turn triggering the of town are a bird-watcher’s paradise. Just
final demise of the plant. These are differ- looking out the windows of the town’s one
ent from the henequen agaves that you see hotel you can see white and brown pelicans,
further south. terns, cormorants, great blue herons, magnifi-
cent frigate birds and jabirus (storks).
El Cuyo The beach, though not great, usually has
At the end of the road, El Cuyo has a clear palapas providing shade. Lancheros (boat
white-sand beach, muddy waters, and curi- owners) charge M$100 per boatload (round-
ously smells a bit like old socks. The town trip) to take passengers across, or M$800 for
sees a few local tourists looking for a short a half-day fishing or birding trip. © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
beach vacation, but not many foreigners pass At the corner of Calles 12 and 13 is a simple restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
through. Maybe this is the off-the-beaten- shed (internet per hr M$8) with five or six computers
track spot you were looking for all this time. with dial-up connections. It’s run by a very only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
Cabañas Mar y Sol (% 986-853-4062; cabana kind young man with a health problem and everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
M$350), one block west of the town square, this café helps him support himself. the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
202 lonelyplanet.com C A M P E C H E • • H i s t o r y 203

CAMPECHE The settlement soon flourished as the major

Campeche State %981 / pop 211,671

Campeche is a colonial fairyland, its walled
port of the Yucatán Peninsula, but this made it
subject to pirate attacks (see boxed text, p207).
After a particularly appalling attack in 1663
city center a tight enclave of perfectly re- left the city in ruins, the king of Spain ordered
stored pastel buildings, narrow cobblestone construction of Campeche’s famous bastions,
streets, fortified ramparts and well-preserved putting an end to the periodic carnage.
mansions. Added to Unesco’s list of World Today the economy of the city is largely
Tucked into the southwestern corner of the Yucatán Peninsula like a forgotten stepdaughter, Heritage sites in 1999, the state capital has driven by fishing and, increasingly, tourism,
Campeche is home to vast stretches of tangled jungle, some of the region’s least visited and been so painstakingly restored you wonder which to some extent have funded the down-
most imposing Maya ruins, forgotten pastoral villages, bird-choked coastal lagoons and an if it’s a real city. Nearly 2000 structures have town area’s renovation.
inspiring colonial-era capital city. It’s the least touristed of the Yucatán’s states, and in that been renovated. But leave the city’s walls
and you’ll find a real Mexican provincial ORIENTATION
lies its provincial, lost-land charm. Though the bastions still stand, the walls have
capital complete with a frenetic market, a
quiet malecón (waterfront boulevard) and been mostly razed and replaced by Avenida
In the northeastern Chenes region and other remote corners, women still don huipiles Circuito Baluartes, which rings the city center
(colorfully embroidered tunics), and Yucatec is widely spoken. The backroads of this north- old fishing docks.
Relatively few tourists visit the city, mean- (Centro Histórico) as the walls once did. In the
ern region bring you to forgotten underground wonderworlds, the massive restored Edzná ing the town retains its authenticity – it’s classic colonial plan, the center is surrounded
archaeological site and a handful of smaller, less-traveled Maya ruins. not a tourist trap, at least not yet. And the by barrios (neighborhoods), each with its own
big-hearted and proud campechanos are church and square. Particularly charming are
This is also the wildest corner of the Peninsula, and the Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul likely to show you an unobtrusive and re- San Román, Guadalupe and Santa Ana.
is Mexico’s largest reserve. Here you can spot toucans, monkeys and even the occasional served hospitality not seen in other regional The streets in the central grid follow a num-
capitals such as Chetumal or Mérida. bered sequence: inland-oriented streets have
big jungle cat. And beyond the cacophonous roar of the howlers and hiccuping frogs rise
CAMPECHE STATE

CAMPECHE STATE
Besides the numerous mansions built by odd numbers and perpendicular ones even.
massive Maya ruined cities such as Calakmul and Becán. Along the coast, the Laguna de A multilane boulevard with bicycle and pe-
wealthy Spanish families during Campeche’s
Términos is great for birding, and beach bums revel in the solitude on forgotten beaches. destrian paths extends along Campeche’s shore-
heyday in the 18th and 19th centuries, two
segments of the city’s wall have also survived, line, from the Fuerte de San Miguel (San Miguel
The southern coast of Campeche was affected by an oil spill in October 2007, and boom- Fort) in the southwest to Fuerte de San José
towns such as Ciudad del Carmen are changing the spirit (and environment) of the region.
as have no fewer than seven of the baluartes
(San José Fort) in the northeast. Graced by a se-
(bastions or bulwarks) that were built into it.
Nevertheless, the age-old grace of the campechanos (residents of Campeche) abides. And ries of monuments, the boulevard is commonly
Two perfectly preserved colonial forts guard
the walled city of Campeche, without a doubt the best-preserved colonial capital on the referred to as La Costera or the malecón, though
the city’s outskirts, one of them housing the
the stretch closest to the city center is officially
peninsula, remains the cultural epicenter of the region, offering a great jumping-off point Museo de la Arquitectura Maya, an archaeo-
named Avenida Adolfo Ruiz Cortínez.
for your adventure into the offbeat hinterland. logical museum with world-class pieces.
The city’s central location on the Gulf of
Mexico makes it the perfect jumping-off point
INFORMATION
for adventures to the Chenes sites, Edzná and
Internet Access
HIGHLIGHTS
All of the hostels and quite a few hotels pro-
neighboring beaches. Come back at night to
Feel the burn as you haul yourself up the massive pyramid at Calakmul (p222), heavy-nosed vide online services, and ‘cibers’ abound in
enjoy the gauzy light of the illuminated church
toucans soaring past toward their treetop jungle hideaways the Centro Histórico.
and other central landmarks.
Stroll through history as you cruise the colonial-
Laundry
era streets of Campeche (p204), with their HISTORY Same-day laundry service is available at the
pastel-hued edifices and arching ramparts Once a Maya trading village called Ah Kim
Campeche
following locations.
Stop to test out your Yucatec in Maya strong- Pech (Lord Sun Sheep-Tick), Campeche was Kler Lavandería (Calle 16 No 305; per kilogram M$10;
holds along the old route to Mérida, visiting first briefly approached by the Spaniards in h8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat)
Hochob &
Hochob (p217) and the Chenes sites (p217) the Chenes Sites 1517. Resistance by the Maya prevented the Lavandería Antigua (Calle 57; per kilogram M$15;
Playa Varadero
along the way Spaniards from fully conquering the region for h8am-4pm Mon-Sat) Between Calles 12 and 14.
Find your little patch of foggy-bottomed nearly a quarter-century. Colonial Campeche
paradise on one of the region’s lost beaches Laguna de
Términos
was founded in 1531, but later abandoned Medical Services
around Playa Varadero (p219) Calakmul
due to Maya hostility. By 1540, however, the In an emergency, call one of the following.
conquistadors had gained sufficient control, Cruz Roja (Red Cross; %815-2411; cnr Av Las Palmas &
Head out for an afternoon birding mission on
under the leadership of Francisco de Montejo Ah Kim Pech) Some 3km northeast of downtown.
the Laguna de Términos (p219)
(the Younger), to found a permanent settle- Emergency (%066)
ment. They named the settlement Villa de San Hospital Dr Manuel Campos (%811-1709; Av Circuito
POPULATION: 754,730 AREA: 56,798 SQ KM Francisco de Campeche. Baluartes Norte) Between Calles 14 and 16.
 204 C A M P E C H E • • S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C A M P E C H E • • S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s 205

stands a replica of the old government center, as the principal ingress from the suburbs.
CAMPECHE STATE 0
0
80 km
50 miles
now housing the modern Biblioteca de Campeche It is now the venue for a sound-and-light
92ºW 91ºW 90ºW Sisal 89ºW
Dzibilchaltún Conkal Motul (State Library; h9am-2:30pm & 3-8:30pm Mon-Fri, 9am- show (p211).
21ºN
MÉRIDA
21ºN noon Sat). The impressive porticoed building Designed to protect the Puerta del Mar, the
Celestún
International
on the opposite side housed an earlier version Baluarte de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad was the
Acanceh
Reserva Reserva
de la MEX
Airport of the city hall; it is now occupied by shops largest of the bastions completed in the late
de la
Biósfera Biósfera
Ría Celestún
180
To Valladolid
and restaurants. 1600s. Appropriately, it was named for the
Los Petenes (130km)
La Costa Ruinas de
patron saint of sailors. This bulwark contains
Bécal Mayapán CATEDRAL DE NUESTRA SEÑORA DE LA the fascinating Museo de la Arquitectura Maya
Calkiní
Ticul PURÍSIMA CONCEPCIÓN (Calle 8; admission M$27, free Sun; h8am-7:30pm Tue-Sun),
Uxmal Kabah
Isla Jaina Dominating the Plaza Principal’s east side is the one must-see museum in Campeche. It

c
uu
P
Hecelchakán
R ut a
MEX
184 the two-towered cathedral (admission free; h7am- provides an excellent overview of the sites
Bolonchén
20ºN Gulf of
Tenabo
de Rejón noon & 4-6pm). The limestone structure has stood around Campeche state and the key archi-
Mexico MEX
MEX
Grutas de 20ºN on this spot for more than three centuries, tectural styles associated with them. Five halls
180
San 261 Xtacumbilxuna'an
CAMPECHE MEX
Antonio Yucatán and it still fills beyond capacity most Sundays. display stelae taken from various sites, ac-
261
Cayal Tohcok
China Hopelchén Statues of St Peter and St Paul occupy niches companied by graphic representations of their
Ich-Ek
Seybaplaya
MEX
120
Iturbide
in the baroque façade; the sober, single-nave carved inscriptions with brief commentaries
Pakchén Dzibilnocac
MEX
261 Edzná El Tabasqueño interior is lined with colonial-era paintings. in flawless English.
Simochac Pich
Chencoh
Dzibalchén Completed in 1704 – the last of the bul-
Hochob
Champotón CENTRO CULTURAL CASA NÚMERO 6 warks to be built – the Baluarte de Santiago (cnr
Xmaben Calles 8 & 49; admission M$10; h9am-9pm) houses the
Bahía de MEX Ucum During the pre-revolutionary era, when the
Campeche Campeche

Quintana Roo
Playa 180
Varadero mansion was occupied by an upper-class Jardín Botánico Xmuch Haltún, a botanical gar-
Reserva
19ºN MEX
261 de la campechano family, Número 6 (Calle 57 No 6; ad- den with numerous endemic plants. Unless
CAMPECHE STATE

Sabancuy 19ºN

CAMPECHE STATE
Biósfera
Isla
Calakmul mission M$5; h9am-9pm) was a prestigious plaza you’re really into plants, it’s not worth the
Puerto
Real Aguada address. Wandering the premises, you’ll get an entrance fee.
To Villahermosa Isla del
(91km) Carmen Laguna Zoh-Laguna
idea of how the city’s high society lived back Named after Spain’s King Carlos II, the
MEX Atasta de MEX
To
180 Ciudad del Escárcega 186 Balamkú Xpuhil then. The front sitting room is furnished with Baluarte de San Carlos houses the Museo de la
Río

Zacatal Carmen Términos Chetumal

Reserva Becán (108km)
de la
Xpujil Cuban pieces of the period. Inside are exhibi- Ciudad (Calle 8; admission M$27; h8am-7:30pm Tue-Sun).
Sa

Conhuas Chicanná
Biósfera Pe
n

Pantanos dr
o
Hormiguero Río Bec tion spaces and a good bookstore. This small but worthwhile museum chrono-
de Centa
MEX
did
o
logically illustrates the city’s tempestuous his-
on

186
Candelaria Baluartes tory via well-displayed objects: specimens of
sc

Tabasco
oE

Jonutla Calakmul
After a particularly blistering pirate assault in dyewood, muskets, a figurehead from a ship’s
Rí

El Tigre Laguna
18ºN Misteriosa Reserva de la
Biósfera 1663 (see p207), the remaining inhabitants of prow and the like. The dungeon downstairs al-
ek

18ºN
Rí

re

Ciudad Ca Calakmul
Campeche set about erecting protective walls ludes to the building’s use as a military prison
o

e C

BELIZE

Pemex nd
Emiliano ela
Blu

To Villahermosa
(45km) Catazajá Zapata ria around their city. Built largely by indigenous during the 1700s.
MEX Parque Nacional Mirador-
186
To Palenque Reserva de la GUATEMALA Dos Lagunas-Río Azul labor with limestone extracted from nearby Directly behind Iglesia de San Juan de Dios,
Chiapas (20km) 91ºW Biósfera Maya 90ºW 89ºW O caves, the barrier took more than 50 years to the Baluarte de San Pedro (cnr Avs Circuito Este & Circuito
complete. Stretching more than 2.5km around Baluartes Norte; admission free; h9am-9pm) served a
Money SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES the urban core and rising to a height of 8m, postpiracy defensive function when it repelled
Campeche has numerous banks with ATMs, Plaza Principal the hexagonal wall was linked by eight bul- a punitive raid from Mérida in 1824. Carved
open 8am to 4pm Monday to Friday, 9am to Shaded by spreading carob trees, and ringed warks. The seven that remain display a treas- in stone above the entry is the symbol of San
2pm Saturday. by tiled benches with broad footpaths radiat- ure trove of historical paraphernalia, artifacts Pedro: two keys to heaven and the papal tiara.
ing from a belle époque kiosk, Campeche’s and indigenous handicrafts. You can climb Climb the steep ramp to the roof and look
Post appealingly modest central square started life atop the bulwarks and stroll sections of the between the battlements to see San Juan’s
Central post office (cnr Av 16 de Septiembre & Calle 53; in 1531 as a military camp. Over the years it wall for sweeping views of the port. cupola. Downstairs, the Museo y Galería de Arte
h8:30am-3:30pm Mon-Fri) became the focus of the town’s civic, political Two main entrances connected the walled Popular (Museum & Gallery of Folk Art; admission free;
and religious activities and remains the core compound with the outside world. The Puerta h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) displays beau-
Tourist Information of public life. Campechanos come here to chat, del Mar (Sea Gate; cnr Calles 8 & 59) provided access tiful indigenous handicrafts.
Coordinación Municipal de Turismo (%811-3989; smooch, have their shoes shined or cool off from the sea, opening onto a wharf where Once the primary defensive bastion for the
www.ayuntamientodecampeche.gob.mx; Calle 55 No 3; with a dish of ice cream after the heat of the small craft delivered goods from ships an- adjacent Puerta de la Tierra, the Baluarte de San
h9am-9pm) Next to the cathedral, the municipal tourist day. The plaza is seen at its best on weekend chored further out. (The shallow waters were Francisco (Calle 18; admission to both San Francisco & San Juan
office is the more useful of the two information centers. evenings, when it’s closed to traffic and con- later reclaimed so the gate is now several M$20; h9am-2pm & 4-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-2pm Sun) houses
Secretaría de Turismo (%816-6767; Plaza Moch certs are staged (see p211). blocks from the waterfront.) The Puerta de a small arms museum. Down the street is the
Couoh; h9am-9pm) Service is inconsistent here though The plaza is surrounded by suitably fine Tierra (Land Gate; Calle 18; admission free; h9am-9pm), Baluarte de San Juan (Calle 18; admission with San Francisco
staff will gladly hand you some brochures. buildings. On the northern (seaward) side on the opposite side, was opened in 1732 ticket free; h8am-7:30pm Tue-Sun), the smallest of the
 206 C A M P E C H E lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C A M P E C H E • • S i g h t s & A c t i v i t i e s 207

CAMPECHE 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
RIBALD TALES: THE MARAUDING PIRATES OF CAMPECHE
A B C 23 D Where there’s wealth, there are pirates. This was no less true in the 1500s as it is today. And
To Plaza Cuatro de Octubre (1.2km); Campeche, which was a thriving chicle, timber and dyewood port in the mid-16th century, was
INFORMATION Parador Gastronómico
Banamex .................................1 C3
de Cocteleros (2km); the wealthiest place around.
Los Piratas/Estadio Nelson Barrera (3km);
1 Banco Santander Mexicano......2 B2 Isla de Jaina (32km); Such riches did not escape the notice of pirates, who first attacked Campeche only six years
Central Post Office..................3 C2 Mérida (toll road, 177km)
Coordinación Municipal de Centro de
To Fuerte Museo
after the town’s founding. For two centuries, they terrorized the growing city. Ships were attacked,
Convenciones
Turismo................................4 B2 Campeche XXI San José del the port was invaded, citizens robbed, women raped and buildings burned – typical pirate stuff.
Hospital Dr Manuel Campos....5 D3 da Alto (2.5km);
ran 51 Cruz Roja (3km) The buccaneers’ hall of shame counted the infamous John Hawkins, Diego the Mulatto, Barbillas
Inegi........................................6 A3 e Ba
Kler Lavendería........................7 B4 zd
Sain and the notorious ‘Pegleg’ (Pata de Palo) himself. In their most gruesome assault, in early 1663,
Lavandería Antigua..................8 C3 d ro
Secretaría de Turismo...............9 A3 Pe Av Adolfo Ruiz Cortínez the various pirate hordes set aside rivalries to converge as a single flotilla upon the city, mas-
Av
sacring Campeche’s citizens.
Gulf of Mexico
25 This tragedy finally spurred the Spanish monarchy to take preventive action, but it was another
3 13 To Plazuela de five years before work on the 3.5m-thick ramparts began. By 1686 a 2.5km hexagon incorporating

Av
San Francisco (650m);
2 ) Cenaduría Portales (650m) eight strategically placed bastions surrounded the city. A segment of the ramparts extended out

Ale
ste
Oe

m
34 s
arte

án
Balu
38 to sea so that ships literally had to sail into a fortress to gain access to the city.
ito 8
ircu lle 43

Ciriaco Vázquez
C Parque de Ca Call With Campeche nearly impregnable, pirates turned to other ports and ships at sea. In 1717
24 (Av e4
2 bre las Banderas Mansión Parque del 9
z tiem Carvajal IV Centenario the brilliant naval strategist Felipe de Aranda began a campaign against the buccaneers, and
ne Sep 20 14
rtí de 4 10
Co 16 lle eventually made this area of the Gulf safe from piracy. Of course, all that wealth from chicle and
iz Av Ca
19 Ru Plaza Plaza 15

Av Cir
1 timber was being created using indigenous slaves, leading one to question: who were the real
fo Moch-Couoh Plaza de la
ol República
27 39 Principal
d
Al 9
16 28 lle
12 pirates, anyway?

cu
Ca
44
Av Palacio de Ca

ito Ba
lle
Gobierno 45 40 50 14
lle
5
46
Palacio Ca
1
42
Call

47

luarte
Legislativo 31 41 Iglesia
CAMPECHE STATE

e5

CAMPECHE STATE
3 21 Palacio 32 29 Dulce seven, containing a permanent exhibition on in 10 exhibit halls. The star attractions are

s Nort
3
Ca

6 Municipal Nombre 5
the history of the bulwarks. And the Baluarte de the jade burial masks from Calakmul. Also
lle

To Clubs & Discos (1km); de Jesús

55
Ca

e
Las Mañanitas (2km);
Santa Rosa (cnr Calles 14 & Circuito Baluartes Sur; admission displayed are stelae, seashell necklaces and
lle

Museo Arqueológico de
Iglesia de
57

Campeche (3.5km);
Ca

49
Fuerte de San 35 17 San Juan free; h10am-3pm & 6-9pm), a couple of blocks to the clay figurines.
lle

33 de Dios
Miguel (3.5km);
Av Circuito Baluartes Sur

59
Ca

36 northwest, has Campeche’s art gallery. Equipped with a dry moat and working
lle

Paseo de 18 8
61

drawbridge, the fort itself is a thing of beauty.

Ca

los Héroes
lle

Ex-Templo de San José The roof deck, ringed by 20 cannons, affords

63

37 22
Ca

To 2nd-class Bus
lle

Terminal (400m)
30 sEste Faced with flamboyant blue-and-yellow tiles, wonderful harbor views.
65

e 14 rte a
Call lua ahu Buses marked ‘Lerma’ or ‘Playa’ depart
To Iglesia de
ito
Ba 52 Ch
ihu the Ex-Templo de San José (former San José church; cnr
San Román (350m); cu
4 Universidad Autónoma 7 Av
Cir
53
Calles 10 & 63; admission M$15; h9am-3pm & 3:45-8:30pm from the market and travel counterclockwise
de Campeche (2km); 16
Centro de Español Ca
lle 10
as Tue-Sun) is a wonder to behold; note the light- around the Circuito before heading down
y Maya (2km) 12 48 a ulip
Tam the malecón. The access road to the fort is
26
Alameda house, complete with weather vane, atop the
right spire. Built in the early 18th century by 4km southwest of the Plaza Moch-Couoh.
18 Av Rep
Ca
lle 54 ública
Jesuits who ran it as an institute of higher Hike 700m up the hill (bear left at the fork).
More
Pedrono

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Otherwise, take a taxi (M$35) or the tranvía

Baluarte de Nuestra Señora de la 11 learning until they were booted out of Spanish
Nicaragua

Soledad......................................(see 20) domains in 1767, it now serves as an exhibition (trolley; see p208).
Baluarte de San Carlos....................(see 21) To Main Bus Terminal (2km); Airport (5.5km); Edzná (60km);
Baluarte de San Francisco.................10 C4 Mérida (long route, 235km); Ciudad del Carmen (toll road, 237km) space. It belongs to the Instituto Campechano,
Baluarte de San Juan.........................11 B5
Baluarte de San Pedro....................(see 22) SLEEPING Taquería Los Patitos.........................46 B3
the university to which it’s attached. Fuerte Museo San José del Alto
5 Baluarte de Santa Rosa.....................12 A4 Hostal del Pirata...............................30 C4 San Miguel’s northern counterpart, built in
Baluarte de Santiago.........................13 C2 Hostal La Parroquia........................(see 41) DRINKING
Biblioteca de Campeche....................14 B2 Hotel América...................................31 B3 La Casa Vieja....................................47 B3
Museo Arqueológico de Campeche & the late 18th century, sits atop the Cerro de
Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Hotel Castelmar................................32 B3 Lafitte's..........................................(see 34) Fuerte de San Miguel Bellavista. From the parapets you can see
Purísma Concepción......................15 C3 Hotel Colonial..................................33 C3 Salón Rincon Colonial......................48 C4
Centro Cultural Casa Número 6........16 B3 Hotel del Mar...................................34 B2 Campeche’s largest colonial fort, facing the where the town ends and the mangroves begin.
Ex-Templo de San José.....................17 A3 Hotel del Paseo................................35 A3 ENTERTAINMENT Gulf of Mexico some 4km southwest of the Cross a drawbridge over a moat to enter the
Instituto Campechano......................18 A3 Hotel López......................................36 B3 Claustro del Instituto de Campeche..49 B3
Jardín Botánico Xmuch Haltún.......(see 13) Hotel Maya Campeche.....................37 C4 Iguana Azul......................................50 C3 city center, is now home to the excellent Museo neatly restored fortress. Inside, a museum (Av
Monument to the City Gates............19 A3 Hotel Plaza Campeche.....................38 C2 Puerta de Tierra.............................(see 26) Arqueológico de Campeche (Campeche Archaeological Francisco Morazán; admission M$27, Sun free; h8am-7pm
Museo de la Arquitectura Maya.......20 B2 Hotel Reforma..................................39 B3
Museo de la Ciudad.........................21 A3 Monkey Hostel.................................40 B3 SHOPPING Museum; admission M$34; h9am-7:30pm Tue-Sun). Here Tue-Sun) illustrates the port’s maritime history
Museo y Galería de Arte Popular..... 22 D4 Bazar Artesanal.................................51 C1 you can admire findings from the sites of through ship models, weaponry and other
Novia del Mar...................................23 C1 EATING Mercado Principal............................ 52 D4
6 Old Baseball Stadium........................24 B2 Café La Parroquia.............................41 C3 Calakmul and Edzná, and from Isla de Jaina, paraphernalia, including a beautiful ebony
Pedro Sáinz de Baranda Monument..25 B2 Chef Color.......................................42 C3 TRANSPORT an island north of town once used as a burial rudder carved in the shape of a hound.
Puerta de Tierra................................26 C4 Lonchería Las Mañanitas..................43 D2 Local Bus Stop..................................53 C4
Puerta del Mar..................................27 B3 Marganzo.........................................44 B3 Maya Rent a Car............................(see 34) site for Maya aristocracy. To get there, catch a local, green ‘Josefa,’
Tranvía de la Ciudad.........................28 B3 Mercado Principal...........................(see 52) Payless Car Rental..........................(see 35)
Xtampak Tours.................................29 B3 Mundo Natural.................................45 B3 Sur Champotón Terminal.................54 C4
Stunning jade jewelry and exquisite vases, ‘Bellavista’ or ‘Morelos’ bus from the side of
masks and plates are thematically arranged the market.
 208 C A M P E C H E • • C o u r s e s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels C A M P E C H E • • S l e e p i n g 209

Malecón Los Petenes (M$300 per person), as well as plaza and cathedral from Campeche’s longest- s/d M$380/440; ai) This small, boutique-
A popular path for joggers, cyclists, strolling tarpon-fishing expeditions. established and most popular hostel. The in- style hotel in the heart of the walled city has
friends and cooing sweethearts, the malecón, Tranvía de la Ciudad (adult M$80, child under 10yr ternational social scene is enhanced by cozy a romantic, pseudo-colonial atmosphere
Campeche’s waterfront promenade, makes a free; hhourly 9am-1pm & 5-9pm) Three different tours common areas with bar, hammocks and well- and at-times taciturn staff. Fifteen rooms
breezy sunrise ramble or sunset bike ride. by motorized tranvía depart from Calle 10 beside the Plaza worn sofas, and friendly bilingual staff. The and painted wall motifs face a narrow
A series of monuments along the 2.5km Principal daily; all last about 45 minutes. On the same beds are firm, but they don’t have individual courtyard.
stretch allude to various personages and events schedule, the trolley called ‘El Guapo’ goes to the Fuerte fans, which can make for a hot night.
in the city’s history. Southwest of the Plaza de San Miguel or its twin on the north side of town, the Hostal del Pirata (% 811-1757; piratehostel@hot Midrange
Moch-Couoh stands a statue of Campeche Fuerte de San José. (Note that the fort tours do not leave mail.com; Calle 59 No 47; dm M$90, r with/without bathroom Hotel América (% 816-4576; www.hotelamerica
native Justo Sierra Méndez, a key player in the time to visit the museums within them.) Buy tram tickets M$230/210; i ) A block from the Puerta de campeche.com; Calle 10 No 252; s/d/tr M$420/480/540; a)
modernization of Mexico’s educational system. and check schedules at the booth just inside the plaza Tierra, this Hostelling International (HI) affili- A large central hotel, the América has an
Northeast up the malecón is a sculpture repre- from the trolley stop. ate is ensconced in Campeche’s historic center, impressive interior, with arcaded corridors
senting the city’s two forts, San Miguel and Xtampak Tours (%811-6473; xtampak_7@yahoo and the building itself is a 17th-century relic. surrounding a handsome courtyard where
San José. In front of the Plaza Moch-Couoh .com.mx; Calle 57 No 14; h8am-4pm & 5:30-8:30pm) Though it hasn’t attained the Monkey’s popu- a complimentary breakfast is served. The
is a monument of the walled city’s four gates. A Offers comprehensive city tours at 9am and 4pm daily larity, the Pirata’s neatly kept premises may ap- 48 drab, all-business rooms clash with the
block past the Hotel del Mar is a monumental (M$250 per person, four hours), as well as archaeological peal to more fastidious travelers. Occupying a charm and warmth of the common areas,
sculpture of native son Pedro Sáinz de Baranda, tours to Edzná (M$180), the Chenes sites (M$750) and modern annex, dorms and ‘semiprivate’ rooms but are clean and simply utilitarian.
who played a key role in defeating the Spanish eastern Campeche. You pay extra (M$700) for a bilingual share modest facilities with cramped showers. oHotel López (%/fax 816-3344; www.hotel
at their last stronghold in Veracruz, thus end- guide, who can lead groups of up to seven people. Over- The beds border on mashed-potato firmness, lopezcampeche.com; Calle 12 No 189; d/tr/q M$490/540/590;
ing the War of Independence. Just beyond the night packages are available to Calakmul and Río Bec. but you get your own fan. as) This elegant hotel is the best buy
Centro de Convenciones Campeche, the girl Hostal La Parroquia (%816-2530; www.hostal in the midrange category, though it lacks
gazing out to sea is the Novia del Mar. According FESTIVALS & EVENTS parroquia.com; Calle 55; dm M$90, d/q without bathroom the charm of other colonial-styled digs.
to a poignant local legend, the campechana fell Carnaval Campeche pulls out all the stops for Carnaval in M$200/300; i) Half a block from the Plaza Comfortably appointed rooms open onto
CAMPECHE STATE

CAMPECHE STATE
in love with a foreign pirate and awaits his re- February, with at least a week of festivities leading up to Principal, Campeche’s newest hostel resides art-deco balconies around oval courtyards
turn. About 1km further north, the Plaza Cuatro ‘Sábado de Bando’ (Carnaval Saturday, date varies), when in a magnificent late-1500s mansion. Rooms and exuberant gardens. There’s a lovely
de Octubre (October 4 Plaza) commemorates everyone dresses up in outrageous costumes and parades with original stone walls and exposed wooden new dip pool out back, where you can chill
the date of the city’s ‘founding,’ depicting the down the malecón. The official conclusion is a week later, beams flank a grand hallway that opens onto a out while checking your emails with the
fateful meeting of a Maya cacique (chief, who when a pirate effigy is torched and hurled into the sea, pleasant patio with small kitchen and adjacent wi-fi hookup.
was evidently lost, since it took Montejo to followed by much revelry in front of the Concha Acústica lawn for sunbathing. Of the three hostels, Hotel del Paseo (%811-0100; www.hoteldelpaseo
found the city), the conquistador Francisco (bandshell) in the Barrio de San Román. it offers the best complimentary breakfast .com; Calle 8 No 215; s/d/tr/q M$500/570/680/770; a)
de Montejo and a priest. At the malecón’s Feria de San Román September 14. This festival honors scheme: fresh fruit, toast and coffee at the Named for its proximity to the pleasant
northern end is the seafood restaurant com- the beloved Cristo Negro (Black Christ) of the Iglesia de San café next door. paseo (promenade) that connects the his-
plex known as the Parador Gastrónomico de Román. Fireworks and Ferris wheels take over the zone, Hotel Reforma (%816-4464; Calle 8 No 257; s M$120- toric center with the Barrio San Román, this
Cockteleros (p210). just southwest of the center, along with beauty contests, 250, d M$300; a) Just off the Plaza Principal, this modern option has an interior promenade
While there are no real beaches to speak boxing matches and a music-and-dance competition that ancient hotel in a 400-year-old building has all too, with street lamps, shops and a bar, all
of in town, by the time you get down to Las brings in traditional ensembles from around the peninsula. the potential in the world. As is, it’s a rather beneath your balcony.
Mañanitas (p210), just over 2km to the south- Día de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe December 12. bizarre place. Enormous upstairs rooms have Hotel Castelmar (%811-1204; www.castelmarhotel
west, the water is clear enough for swimming. Pilgrimages from throughout the peninsula travel to the modern tiled bathrooms, high ceilings and .com; Calle 61 No 2; s/d/ste M$750/850/1050; a) Once
Iglesia de Guadalupe, 1.5km east of the Plaza Principal great balconies, if you can handle the traffic an army barracks, the Castelmar has been
and Mexico’s second-most-visited shrine, next to the noise. The threadbare sheets leave something operating as a hotel for 100 years now. A
COURSES Virgin of Guadalupe. to be desired. Rates vary with inclusion of TV, recent remodeling job upped the casual
Universidad Autónoma de Campeche Centro de Festival del Centro Histórico Held throughout Decem- hot water and/or air-con; the complex scheme refinement of this small hotel. Oversized
Español y Maya (CEM; etzna.uacam.mx/cem/principal.htm; ber with a jazz festival toward the end of the month. is posted over the reception desk. crucifixes and other colonial-era-inspired
Av Agustin Melgar), one block east of the malecón, Coincides with Día de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe on Hotel Colonial (%816-2222; Calle 14 No 122; s M$170, ornaments add to the charm, as do the
offers four- to eight-week summer language December 12. d M$180-200; a) Time stands still within this amazingly thick walls. Just try to scream –
courses. Homestays can be arranged. Drop by stubbornly low-tech establishment, a budget nobody will hear you.
to sit in on classes or check the notice board SLEEPING traveler’s haven for six decades. Indeed, little
for Spanish teachers. Budget seems to have changed since it was occupied Top End
Campeche’s three hostels all offer laundry by king’s lieutenant Miguel de Castro in the Hotel Plaza Campeche (% 811-9900; www.hotel
TOURS services, free internet and complimentary colonial era. Zealously maintained rooms plazacampeche.com; cnr Calle 10 & Circuito Baluartes; r
Monkey Hostel, Hostal La Parroquia and breakfast, plus bicycle rentals and tours of surround a tranquil tiled courtyard with M$890, junior ste M$2120; ais) Just outside
Hostal del Pirata will all arrange tours and/ archaeological sites. wicker-backed rockers and a central aljibe the historic center on the lovely Parque del
or shuttle services to the Maya sites. Hostal oMonkey Hostel (%811-6605; www.hostal (rainwater cistern). IV Centenario, the Plaza caters to business
del Pirata also offers kayaking tours of Isla campeche.com; cnr Calles 10 & 57; dm M$80, r without bath- Hotel Maya Campeche (% 816-8053, 800-561- travelers. It aims for Euro elegance with faux
de Jaina and the Reserva de la Biósfera room M$200; i) You can’t beat the view of the 8730; www.mayacampechehotel.com.mx; Calle 57 No 40; French furniture, a sumptuous dining room
 210 C A M P E C H E • • E a t i n g Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com C A M P E C H E • • D r i n k i n g 211

and attentive bellhops. The spacious rooms Las Mañanitas (cnr Avenidas Resurgimiento & Lopez
have soothing color schemes. Mateos; panuchos M$9, mains M$70-120; hnoon-1am) LA LOTERÍA
Hotel del Mar (%811-9191; www.delmarhotel.com.mx; With great ocean views some 2km southwest ‘Twenty-three, melons’…’47, volcano’… ‘41, rocking chair’…’78, rose’…’two, dove.’
Av Adolfo Ruiz Cortínez 51; r with city/sea view M$950/1320; of downtown, this place is perfect for sunset It’s Saturday night in Campeche, and the tables in front of the cathedral are already full for
ais) The Miami-style Hotel del Mar, cocktails or a casual lunch or dinner. It serves the ritual game of la lotería, held every Saturday and Sunday evening from 6pm to 10pm. The
on the malecón, exudes luxury and a beachy basically the same menu as the city-center litany of icons is chanted through a cheap microphone by a woman in a huipil (colorfully em-
glow. Rooms with sea views have balconies. location (Lonchería Las Mañanitas), but the broidered tunic), as she picks up numbered balls from the spinner cage and places them upon
There’s a popular downstairs bar. atmosphere burns two degrees hotter. a panel of 90 pictures.
Mundo Natural (cnr Calles 8 & 61; juices M$18, salads A bingo-like game of European origin that uses numbered images, la lotería has been played
EATING M$20; h7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat; v) This on the peninsula since the 19th century. John L Stephens’ Incidents of Travel in Yucatan has a
Taquería Los Patitos (Calle 8 No 289; tortas & trancas open-air ‘natural foods’ bar opposite the good description of the game as he observed it played at a fiesta in Mérida in 1841. The action
M$6-14; h7:30am-3pm) Chow down with the Palacio de Gobierno prepares fresh juice com- now may not be as heated as he describes, but the old folks can get pretty excited when one
longshoremen at this friendly hole-in-the- bos, hefty salads and sandwichónes (very large of them finishes a row.
wall, where overseer Doña Hilaria fills tortas double- or triple-decker sandwiches that are At a peso per card, most anyone can afford to play a card or four. Players usually mark the
(sandwiches in rolls) and trancas (baguettes sliced into snack-sized sections). images on their cards with bottle caps from a plastic container on the table. A variation on bingo
stuffed with roast pork) with a variety of Cenaduría Portales (%811-1491; Calle 10, Portales is that markers can be placed in a variety of patterns: in addition to the usual rows, players
scrumptious fillings, such as shark-and-egg de San Francisco 86; trancas M$20, soups M$25; h6pm- can arrange their five markers in the form of a ‘V,’ a pair of scissors, or several kinds of crosses.
salad and salpicón de res (shredded beef salad). midnight) A relaxed place outside the walls, The first person to form one of these patterns takes the pot, which can get pretty hefty as the
Don’t miss the exotic fruit juices. alongside the delightful Plazuela de San evening progresses.
Lonchería Las Mañanitas (Calle 49B No 3; snacks & Francisco in the barrio of the same name. It
soups M$9-25, mains M$70-120; h6pm-midnight Thu-Tue) specializes in regional dishes. On warm eve-
At the Portales de San Martín, a block north nings, an ice-cold goblet of coconut horchata (‘old clothes,’ shredded beef in salsa) accom- Salón Rincon Colonial (%816-8376; Calle 59 No 60;
of Avenida Circuito Baluartes Norte, this (a rice-based drink) really hits the spot. panied by fried plantains, beans and rice. hnoon-8pm) With ceiling fans high over an
CAMPECHE STATE

CAMPECHE STATE
place serving regional snacks under the ar- Chef Color (%811-4455; cnr Calles 55 & 12; full/half Café La Parroquia (%816-2550; Calle 55 No 8; breakfast airy hall and a solid wood bar amply stocked
cades of the plaza is a popular gathering place lunch platter M$25-40; h10am-6pm) This Central combos M$30-40, lunch specials M$35; h24hr) Any time of with rum, this Cuban-style drinking estab-
for families and friends. The festive mood is American–style eatery serves up large platters day – or night – your table awaits at this classic lishment appropriately served as a location
buoyed by a steady stream of panuchos (tortil- of toothsome fare from a steam table. The list coffee house with a dozen ceiling fans, attentive for Original Sin, a 2001 movie with Antonio
las filled with black beans), tamales and bowls of guisados (main courses) might include po- waiters in white coats, and continuous Televisa Banderas that was set in Havana. Just across
of turkey soup. tato croquettes and Cuban-inspired ropa vieja broadcasts. Not just tourists but local geezers in the way from the Puerta de Tierra, the classic
guayaberas (short-sleeved sports shirts) hang bar was until recently a male-only enclave.
out here for hours on end. In addition to the The botanas (drinking snacks) are exception-
SKIP THE TOURIST TRAPS & DIG INTO TRADITIONAL CAMPECHANO CUISINE breakfast packages and daily lunch specials ally fine; you get a different selection with
Travelers who take their eating seriously will find plenty of good options in Campeche, but steer (served 10:30am to 6pm), there’s a full list of re- each round.
clear of the numerous tourist-oriented restaurants, which generally serve dull, overpriced fare. gional faves such as pollo en escabeche (chicken Lafitte’s (%811-9191; www.delmarhotel.com.mx;
Such places are recognizable as they’re empty when not occupied by tour groups. marinated in vinaigrette-style sauce). Hotel del Mar, Av Ruiz Cortínes 51;htill 2am) Hotel del
On Saturday and Sunday the best place to sample Campeche cuisine is the Plaza Principal. Marganzo (% 813-8981; Calle 8 No 267; mains Mar’s downstairs bar is one of Campeche’s
Before sundown, stalls set up around the plaza to offer an impressive variety of home-cooked M$40-150; h7am-11pm) OK, so we told you to more popular nightspots. Waitstaff here dress
fare at reasonable prices. You can sample regional specialties such as pibipollo (chicken tamales avoid the tourist joints, but this touristy spot like pirates.
traditionally cooked underground), brazo de reina (tamales with chopped chaya greens mixed is worth its mustard. Very sweet waitresses
into the dough) and pan de cazón (layers of shark and tortillas laced with a tomato-based sauce), start you off with complimentary shredded ENTERTAINMENT
plus various desserts and cold teas. manta ray, octopus salad, salsa, garlic cream There’s invariably someone performing on
Though startlingly rustic compared with Campeche’s spruced-up center, the main market, and chips. From there, dig through the ex- the Plaza Principal every Saturday and Sunday
Mercado Principal (Circuito de Baluartes Este; h7am-5pm), across the street from the Baluarte de tensive menu, which offers everything from evening from around 6:30pm, be it a rock-
San Pedro, offers some terrific snacks. At the Calle 53 entrance, regional-style tamales are dis- international fare to a regional tasting menu and-roll band, pop-star impersonator, tradi-
pensed from big pots in the morning. Inside, take a battered stool at Taquería El Amigo Carlos (M$140). There’s live music and dances at tional dance troupe or a folk trio. On Sunday,
Ruelas and order a tranca – a baguette stuffed with lechón (roast pork) – and an ice-cold glass night, and a pretty decent wine list (this being the Banda del Estado (State Band) kicks off
of agua de lima (sweet lemon drink). In the adjacent circular market building a number of cocina the provinces and all). the program, performing Campeche classics,
economica (basic eatery) stalls ring the interior rotunda. show music, marches and other rousing fare.
oParador Gastrónomico de Cockteleros (Av Pedro Sainz de Baranda; shrimp cocktails M$40-100, DRINKING Try to arrive early for a good seat.
fish M$50-90; h9am-6:30pm), on the north end of the malecón, 2.5km from the Plaza Principal, is La Casa Vieja (%811-8016; Calle 10 No 319A; h8:30am- Also on weekends, tables are set up from
the place to partake of the bountiful seafood netted daily from the Gulf. About 20 thatched-roof 12:30am) There’s no better setting for an evening 6pm to 10pm in front of the cathedral and
restaurants all serve pretty much the same thing: shellfish cocktails and fried fish. Ask to see the cocktail than La Casa Vieja’s colonnaded bal- library for la lotería (a bingolike game;
day’s catch and make your selection; a medium-sized fish goes for about M$50. Most places give cony overlooking the Plaza Principal. Seek see above).
you free starters such as fried shrimp or crab legs. dinner elsewhere, however; the restaurant is Puerta de Tierra (tickets M$50; h8pm Tue, Fri & Sat)
aimed primarily at the tour-bus trade. Incidents from Campeche’s pirate past are
 212 C A M P E C H E • • S h o p p i n g lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C A M P E C H E T O M É R I D A V I A H I G H W AY 1 8 0 • • H e c e l c h a k á n 213

re-enacted several nights a week in the Land SHOPPING To get to the new terminal, catch any ‘Las
Gate. It’s a Disneyesque extravaganza with Bazar Artesanal (Plaza Ah Kim Pech; h10am-10pm) The Flores,’ ‘Solidaridad’ or ‘Casa de Justicia’ bus CAMPECHE TO MÉRIDA
lots of cannon blasts and flashing lights. The by the post office. To the 2nd-class terminal,
tale is told in four languages.
state-run Folk Art Bazaar, down by the malecón
near the Centro de Convenciones Campeche, catch a ‘Terminal Sur’ or ‘Ex-ADO’ bus from VIA HIGHWAY 180
Universidad Autónoma de Campeche (Av Agustin offers one-stop shopping for regional crafts. the same point.
The ruta corta (short route) is the fastest
Melgar) Has revolving art exhibits, plays and One section of the market is reserved for dem- The Sur Champotón terminal across from
way between the two cities, and it’s the
art-house movies (M$25) at the Cine Teatro onstrations of traditional craft techniques. the Alameda has rural buses to Champotón
route more traveled by buses. Hwy 261, the
Universitario Joaquín Lanz. Prices are set – no bargaining. and Edzná.
longer alternative via Kabah and Uxmal, is
Catch a free weekday concert, dance or Mercado Principal (Av Circuito Baluartes Este; h7am- The destinations in the table (opposite) are
covered by buses out of Campeche’s 2nd-
folklore exhibit at the Claustro del Instituto de 5pm) Prowl around the main market and sur- from the 1st-class terminal unless otherwise
class terminal.
Campeche (Calle 12). vey the spices and herbs, exotic fruit, honey noted.
and chilies. Bonetería Bazar Puebla has a good HECELCHAKÁN
Nightclubs selection of huipiles and guayaberas. Car & Motorcycle %996 / pop 9974
For Campeche’s hottest nightlife, head 1km If you’re heading for either Edzná, the long Bicycle taxis with canvas canopies noise-
south from the city center along the malecón GETTING THERE & AWAY route to Mérida or the fast toll road going lessly navigate the tranquil central plazas
past the Torres del Cristal. Here you’ll find a Air south, take Calle 61 to Avenida Central of Hecelchakán, a delightful village 60km
bunch of great bars, cafés and discos. Locals The airport is 6km southeast of the center. and follow signs for the airport and either northeast of Campeche that is known for
recommend Margarita’s House, popular with Aeroméxico (%823-4044, 800-021-4010) flies to Edzná or the cuota (toll road). For the non- its culinary pleasures and excellent small
the older karaoke set; the hip lounge Rooms; Mexico City at least twice daily. toll route south, just head down the malecón. museum. Hecelchakán’s inhabitants, which
Café Solé for an easy-going ‘Friends’ night; For the short route to Mérida go north on include a Mennonite community, are pri-
and Millennium disco if you want to get a Bus the malecón. marily devoted to agriculture, while a few
little raucous. Campeche’s main bus terminal (%816-2802; Av Coming to Campeche from the south via the are employed in the clothing maquiladora
Iguana Azul (%816-3978; Calle 55 No 11; h6pm- Patricio Trueba 237), usually called the ADO or cuota, turn left at the roundabout signed for (low-paying, for-export factory).
CAMPECHE STATE

CAMPECHE STATE
2am Mon-Sat) Toward the weekend this casual 1st-class terminal, is about 2.5km south of the universidad, and follow that road straight A tourist information office (%827-0071), inside
restaurant across from Café La Parroquia Plaza Principal via Avenida Central. Buses to the coast. Turn right up the malecón and the Casa de Cultura on the left side of the
hosts local cover bands and jazz combos in provide 1st-class and deluxe service to you will arrive instantly oriented. church, opens up occasionally.
its colonial courtyard. Mérida, Cancún, Chetumal (via Xpujil), In addition to some outlets at the airport, Dating from the 16th century, the Iglesia de
Palenque, Veracruz and Mexico City, as well several car-rental agencies can be found San Francisco de Asis on the main plaza seems
Sports as 2nd-class service to Sabancuy (M$75), downtown. Rates are generally higher than massive for a town this size. The former
Los Piratas (%816-6071; www.piratasdecampeche.com Hecelchakán (M$23), Candelaria (M$114) in Mérida or Cancún. Franciscan monastery is worth entering to
.mx; tickets M$50-80) Campeche’s Mexican Baseball and points in Tabasco. Maya Rent A Car (%811-9191; Hotel del Mar, Av Ruiz admire the wood-beam ceiling and striking
League team plays every other week during The 2nd-class terminal (% 816-2802; Av Cortínez 51) iconography of the altar, with flaming hearts
the March-to-July season at the Estadio Gobernadores 289), often referred to as the ‘old Payless Car Rental (%816-4214; Hotel del Paseo, flanking a crucifix.
Nelson Barrera on the north end of town. ADO’ station, is 1.5km east of the Mercado Calle 10 No 288, interior 3) The Museo Arqueológico del Camino Real (admis-
Tickets can be purchased at the old baseball Principal. Second-class buses to Hopelchén, sion M$27; h9:30am-5:30pm Wed-Mon, 9:30am-4pm Tue),
stadium on Calle 57, across from the Baluarte Bolonchén, Xpujil and Bécal (M$35) depart GETTING AROUND on the north corner of the plaza, contains a
de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad. from here. Local buses originate at the market or across small but compelling collection of ceramic
Avenida Circuito Baluartes from it and go art excavated from Isla de Jaina, a tiny island
at least partway around the Circuito before due west of Hecelchakán that flourished as a
BUS SERVICES FROM CAMPECHE heading to their final destinations. The fare commercial center during the 7th century.
Destination Fare (M$) Duration (hr) Departures is M$4.50. Portraying ballplayers, weavers, warriors
Taxis charge a set rate of M$25 (M$35 after and priests, the extraordinary figurines on
Bolonchén de Rejón 50 3 5 daily from 2nd-class terminal dark) for rides within the city; by the hour display here paint a vivid portrait of ancient
Cancún 340 7 7 ADO direct daily Maya life. There’s also a collection of stelae
Chetumal via Xpujil 260 6 1 ADO at noon daily, buses from 2nd-class terminal
they’re around M$100. Tickets for authorized
taxis from the airport to the center (M$80) are in the courtyard.
at 8:15am & 10pm
sold from a booth in the terminal. To request Residents of the capital customarily make
Ciudad del Carmen 120-160 3 ADO roughly hourly, 1 deluxe ADO-GL at noon
Hopelchén 37 1½ hourly until 5pm from 2nd-class terminal a taxi, call %815-5555 or %816-6666. the trip up just for Hecelchakán’s famous
Mérida via Bécal 105-125 2½ ADO approx every 30min, 1 deluxe ADO-GL at 6:30pm Consider renting a bicycle for a ride along snacks. In the mornings, outside the church,
Mérida via Uxmal 90-140 4½ 5 Sur from 2nd-class terminal the malecón or through the streets of the little pavilions serve up cochinita pibil (barbe-
Mexico City 900-1060 17 6 ADO daily, 1 deluxe ADO GL Centro Histórico. All of Campeche’s hostels cued suckling pig wrapped in banana leaves)
Palenque 220-270 6 3 ADO daily, 1 OCC, 1 deluxe ADO-GL at 11:30pm rent bicycles at reasonable rates. and relleno negro (turkey stuffed with chopped
San Cristóbal de Las Casas 360-410 9 1 OCC daily, 1 deluxe ADO-GL at 11:30pm Drivers should note that even-numbered pork and laced with a rich, dark chili sauce)
Villahermosa 230-330 6 multiple ADO daily, 1 deluxe ADO-GL at 4:30pm streets in the Centro Histórico take priority, in tacos or baguettes, along with horchata (a
Xpujil 130-170 5 1 ADO at noon daily, 5 Sur from 2nd-class terminal as indicated by the red (stop) or black (go) rice-based drink) and agua de cebada (a barley
arrows at every intersection. beverage served with a spoon).
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Edzná means ‘House of the Itzáes,’ in ref- including Edzná’s major temple, the 31m-high
BÉCAL’S UNDERGROUND – DISCOVER THE ROOTS OF THE JIPIJAPA HAT erence to a predominant governing clan of Edificio de los Cinco Pisos (Five-Story Building).
While on the surface Bécal may look like a somnolent Campeche town, underground are people Chontal Maya origin. Edzná’s rulers recorded The current structure is the last of four re-
laboring away at the traditional craft of hat making. Called jipijapas by the inhabitants of Bécal, significant events on stone stelae. Around 30 models and was done primarily in the Puuc
the soft, pliable hats that constitute its principal industry have been woven by townsfolk from stelae have been discovered adorning the site’s style. It rises five levels from its base to the
the fibers of the huano palm tree since the mid-19th century, when the plants were imported principal temples, a handful are on display un- roofcomb and contains many vaulted rooms.
from Guatemala by a Catholic priest. derneath a palapa (thatched palm-leaf-roofed A great central staircase of 65 steps, some with
The stalk of the plant is cut into strands to make the fibers; the quality of the hat depends on structure) just beyond the ticket office. well-preserved glyphs along their bases, goes
the fineness of the cut. The work is done in humid limestone caves that provide just the right A path from the palapa leads about 400m right to the top. Climbers are rewarded with
atmosphere for shaping the fibers, keeping them moist and pliable. There’s at least one cave on through vegetation and then through the sweeping views of the whole complex and
every block, generally reached by a hole in the ground in someone’s backyard. Though often Anexo de los Cuchillos beside the Plataforma de surrounding jungle canopy.
no bigger than a bedroom, the caves may be occupied by a half-dozen Maya-speaking weavers los Cuchillos (Platform of the Knives), a residen- Southeast of Plaza Principal is the Templo
at a time. Once exposed to the relatively dry air outside, the panama hat is surprisingly resilient tial complex highlighted by Puuc architectural de Los Mascarones (Temple of the Masks), with
and resistant to crushing. Prices for the hats range from around M$200 for coarsely woven hats features. The name is derived from an offering a pair of reddish stucco masks underneath a
to more than M$900 for very fine work. of silica knives found within. protective palapa. Personifying the gods of the
Crossing a sacbé (stone-paved avenue), you rising and setting sun, these extraordinarily
arrive at the main attraction, the Plaza Principal. well-preserved faces display dental mutilation,
Hotel Margarita (%827-0472; Calle 20 No 80; s/d/ The rest of the route between here and Measuring 160m long and 100m wide, the crossed eyes and huge earrings, features as-
tr with fan M$120/140/160, with air-con M$210/250/270; Mérida is covered in the Yucatán State chap- Plaza Principal is surrounded by temples. On sociated with the Maya aristocracy.
a), on the main drag about 200m from the ter (see p166). your right as you enter from the north is the There’s a fairly tasteful sound-and-light show
plaza, is a ‘family’ establishment – no booze or Nohochná (Big House), a massive, elongated (M$110) Friday and Saturday nights beginning
friends of guests allowed. There’s an internet structure topped by four long halls likely used at 8pm.
café next door. CAMPECHE TO MÉRIDA for administrative tasks, such as the collection Cabañas Ecoturisticas Usahasil (%981-829-4842;
CAMPECHE STATE

CAMPECHE STATE
ATS buses from Campeche’s 2nd-class of tributes and the dispensation of justice. cabanas M$150), 1km north of the Edzná turnoff
terminal stop here en route to Mérida every
half-hour till around 10pm (M$20, one hour).
VIA HIGHWAY 261 Across the plaza is the Gran Acrópolis, a
raised platform holding several structures,
on Hwy 120 in Poblado No-Yaxche, is the only
place to stay near the ruins. A public-relations
In addition, blue colectivos (shared vans) shut- A perfect day trip from Campeche, or a nice
tle passengers between Campeche’s Mercado backroad drive on your way to Mérida, this
route takes you past traditional Maya villages EDZNÁ 0
0
200 m (Approx)
0.1 miles
Principal and Hecelchakán’s plaza every 15
minutes for M$22. to many of the state’s best archaeological To Exit
sites. It’s often referred to as the Ruta Chenes To Entrance
(400m) Plataforma de
(450m)

BÉCAL (Chenes Route), for the chenes (wells) that los Cuchillos
Gran Acrópolis
Bécal, about 90km north of Campeche just be- give the region its name. All of Campeche’s
fore you enter the state of Yucatán, is a center archaeological sites are open daily from 8am Anexo de los
Cuchillos

of the Yucatán’s panama-hat trade. About to 5pm.

Patio
Puuc
one-third of the adult population makes their
living weaving jipijapas, as the soft, pliable EDZNÁ
Templo del
hats are known locally. The finest hats are If you only have the time or inclination to Noroeste Edificio de los
Sacbé Cinco Pisos
destined for export to connoisseurs in foreign visit just one archaeological site in northern
cities. The tranquil town clearly identifies with Campeche, Edzná (%555-150-2591; admission M$37)
its stock-in-trade, as is made obvious by the should be your top pick. Get there early to Nohochná
Temazcal Templo del
Suroeste
centerpiece of its plaza. avoid the crowds, and remember that Sunday Plaza Principal
For more on jipijapas, see boxed text is free for Mexican nationals, so the site
(above). To find out where jipijapas are gets overcrowded. Plataforma Norte del Casa de
la Luna
crafted and sold in town, hail a bicycle taxi Edzná’s massive complexes were built by a Juego de Pelota

(M$10) on Bécal’s plaza and ask the rider for highly stratified society that flourished from
Pequeña Acrópolis
his recommendation. The workshop of Senor approximately 600 BC to the dawn of the
Valdemero, opposite the secundaria (high colonial era. During that period the people Templo de la
Juego de
school) about 1km south from the plaza, is of Edzná built more than 20 complexes in a Templo
del Sur Pelota
Escalinata con
Relieves
one of numerous recommendable options. mélange of architectural styles, installing an Templo de
Los Estelas
In early May the Fiesta de Flor del Jipi is cel- ingenious network of water collection and
ebrated with dancing and bullfights. irrigation systems. After its demise in the
From Campeche’s 2nd-class terminal, ATS 15th century, the site remained unknown
Templo de Los
buses bound for Mérida stop in Bécal’s main until its rediscovery by campesinos (agricul- Mascarones

plaza (M$45, two hours). tural workers) in 1906.

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schlock would call it rustic… We call it the makes a pleasant base for visiting the various Getting There & Away colectivos depart for Bolonchén from the north
only place to stay in the area. There are a few archaeological sites in the vicinity while also The terminal is served by 2nd-class Sur side of Hopelchén’s plaza, passing nearby the
roadside stands serving food directly opposite providing a glimpse of everyday life in a small buses, with daily departures to/arrivals from caves. Check with the driver for return times.
the Cabañas’ entrance. Campeche town. Campeche (M$37, 1½ hours, hourly), Mérida Hwy 261 continues north into Yucatán
A tourist information office (%822-0089; Calle 20; via Bolonchén (M$70, 1½ hours, five serv- state to Uxmal, with a side road leading to
Getting There & Away h8am-3pm) in the Casa de Cultura, two blocks ices), and Xpujil (M$90, three hours, one at the ruins along the Ruta Puuc.
From Campeche, dilapidated buses leave north of the main plaza, is staffed by English 8pm). In addition, blue colectivos run continu-
from outside the Sur Champotón terminal at speakers. To get online, visit Cyber 23 (Calle 23), ously between Campeche’s 2nd-class terminal CHENES SITES
7am and 11:15am, returning from the site at a block west of the bus station. (M$35) and Hopelchén, stopping at villages Northeastern Campeche state is dotted with
1pm and 4pm (M$20, one hour). Most drop On a typical morning here, Maya campes- along the way. more than 30 sites in the distinct Chenes style,
you 200m from the site entrance; ask before inos and Mennonites congregate under box- Drivers can strike southward to Dzibalchén recognizable by the monster motifs around
boarding. Schedules vary, so check the day shaped laurels as bicycle taxis glide past. and Xpujil, stopping along the way to check out doorways in the center of long, low buildings
before you travel. Opposite the central plaza, the Parroquia de the Maya ruins at El Tabasqueño, Dzibilnocac of three sections, and temples atop pyramidal
Xtampak Tours (% 981-811-6473; xtampak_7 San Antonio de Padua, dating from the 16th cen- and Hochob. Travelers heading for bankless bases. Most of the year you’ll have these sites
@yahoo.com.mx; Calle 57 No 14, Campeche; h8am-4pm & tury, features an intricate retablo (altarpiece), Xpujil: there’s a Bancomer with ATM next to to yourself. The three small sites described
5:30-8:30pm) provides an hourly shuttle service with a gallery of saints and angels amid lav- the Palacio Municipal on the smaller plaza. below make for an interesting single-day trip
from Campeche to Edzná (M$180, minimum ishly carved pillars. Herbalists, midwives and Xpujil-bound drivers should fill up in town. if you have your own vehicle or you can take
two passengers) as well as guided tours of shamans practice traditional Maya medicine a tour from Campeche with Xtampak Tours
the site. at the Consejo Local de Médicos Indigenas (Colmich, AROUND HOPELCHÉN (%981-811-6473; [email protected]; Calle 57 No
Leaving the site by car, you can either go Calle 8), five blocks east of the plaza. Tohcok is a walkable 3km northwest of 14, Campeche; h8am-4pm & 5:30-8:30pm).
north on Hwy 120 to pick up Hwy 261 east Hotel Arcos (% 100-8782; Calle 23 s/n; s/d/tr Hopelchén. Of the 40-odd structures found Supposedly named after a local landowner
to Hopelchén, or alternatively head toward M$130/190/260; a), next door to the bus ter- at this site (admission free), the only one that has from Tabasco, El Tabasqueño (admission free;h8am-
Dzibalchén and the Chenes site of Hochob by minal, is a convenient no-frills option. The been significantly excavated displays features 5pm) boasts a temple-palace (Estructura 1) with
CAMPECHE STATE

CAMPECHE STATE
going south to Pich, then east to Chencoh, 54km rooms are immaculately clean, and you can of the Puuc and Chenes styles. The custodian a striking monster-mouth doorway, flanked by
from Edzná over a decent but little-used road. add air-con and TV for M$100. You can can point out a chultún (Maya underground stacks of eight Chac masks with hooked snouts.
also sling your hammock from the hooks on cistern), one of around 45 in the zone. Estructura 2 is a solid freestanding tower,
HOPELCHÉN the wall. Some of the most significant caves in the pe- an oddity in Maya architecture. To reach El
%996 / pop 6500 For a good caldo de pollo (chicken soup), ninsula are found 31km north of Hopelchén, Tabasqueño, go 30km south from Hopelchén.
The municipal center for the Chenes region, try the stalls on Plaza Chica, open mornings shortly before you reach the town of Bolonchén Just beyond the village of Pakchén, there’s an
Hopelchén (Maya for ‘Place of the Five Wells’) from 7am and evenings till 1am. de Rejón. The local Maya have long known of easy-to-miss sign at a turnoff on the right; fol-
the existence of the Grutas de Xtacumbilxuna’an low this rock-and-gravel road 2km to the site.
(admission M$50; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun; c), a series Approximately 60km south of Hopelchén
THE MENNONITES OF CAMPECHE of underground cenotes in this water-scarce near the village of Chencoh, Hochob (admis-
Campeche is in the midst of a quiet invasion by an unlikely community – the Mennonites. Seeing region. In 1844 the caves were ‘discovered’ by sion M$27;h8am-5pm), ‘the place where corn is
them waiting in bus stations, hanging about the main plazas of villages, crowding pickup trucks the intrepid John L Stephens and Frederick harvested,’ is among the most beautiful and
or sharing a caguama of Sol (liter bottle of Mexican beer) in front of a store, you may wonder if Catherwood, who depicted the Maya descend- terrifying of Chenes-style sites. Considered
you’ve somehow stumbled onto the set of Little House on the Prairie. Clad in black coveralls and ing an incredibly high rope-and-log staircase a classic example of the Chenes style, the
long-sleeved flannel shirts in the midday heat, the men tower over their Maya neighbors. The to replenish their water supply. Today the Palacio Principal (Estructura 2, though sign-
women wear dark floral-print dresses and straw hats with broad ribbons. cenote is dry but Xtacumbilxuna’an (shtaa- posted as ‘Estructura 1’) is on the north side
Tracing their origins to 16th-century Reformist Germany, the Mennonites have inhabited some koom-beel-shoo-nahn) is open for explora- of the main plaza. It’s faced with an elaborate
northern Mexican states since the 1920s. Drawn by cheap land, they first migrated down to tion and admiration of the vast caverns and doorway representing Itzamná, lord creator
Hopelchén, Campeche, in 1983 and since then have established agricultural communities around incredible limestone formations within. A of the ancient Maya, as an open-jawed rat-
Dzibalchén, Hecelchakán and Edzná. Once they’ve settled in, the Mennonites work relentlessly, light-and-sound extravaganza accompanies tlesnake. Facing Estructura 2 across the plaza,
growing corn, melons and other crops, raising cattle and producing cheese for the domestic the tour; skip the headphones and verbal com- Estructura 5 has a pair of raised temples on
market. They live in campos (self-contained communities with their own schools and churches), mentary in six languages (something about either end of a long series of rooms; the better-
and speak among themselves in a form of Low German. the legend of the hidden lady for whom the preserved temple on the east side retains part
Mennonite men customarily fraternize and conduct business with the Mexicans and many caves are named). While the lighting help- of its perforated roofcomb.
converse fluently in colloquial Spanish (the women only speak with their own). Though they are fully picks out some of the more spectacular To reach Hochob, turn right (south) about
generally accepted by the local community, some campechanos (residents of Campeche) have stalactites and stalagmites, the soundtrack 500m west of Dzibalchén and drive the 10km
expressed resentment at the Mennonite invasion, complaining that the ‘Menonas’ buy ejido only detracts from the experience. Instead, to Chencoh, then the remaining 4km over a
(communal) lands for less than they’re worth and have the capital to purchase expensive farm listen to the sounds of mot-mots echoing off paved, though much deteriorated, road to the
machinery while campechanos have to scrape by with lesser means. the walls as you descend. site. The small complex stands on a platform
The film Luz Silenciosa (Silent Light) by Mexican director Carlos Reygadas looks at life in Mexico’s Sur buses traveling between Hopelchén and at the top of a snaking trail of circular steps.
Mennonite communities. It won the coveted Jury Prize at Cannes in 2007. Mérida will drop you at the cave entrance before Though it only has one significant structure,
Bolonchén (M$15, 25 minutes). In addition, Dzibilnocac (admission free;h8am-5pm) possesses an
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conch. Another good bet is the string of coctel- lagoon’s northeastern end. Sabancuy is 2km
TRADITIONAL HARVEST: THE SWEET HISTORY OF MAYA HONEY erías (seafood shacks, specializing in shellfish from the coast, across the estuary via two
The Yucatán’s flowers yield a sweet, mellifluous harvest, and bees have held an exalted place cocktails) under thatched roofs about 2km bridges. You enter onto the village’s cute little
throughout its honeyed history. At the time of the conquest, records show that the Maya produced north of town. waterfront plaza, the focus of activity.
vast amounts of honey and Yucatecan villages paid tribute to the Spanish in honey, which was Two roads head south from Campeche to Facing the estuary, 15km from town by
valued more for its curative properties than as a sweetener. Bees were important in the Maya Champotón: a meandering coastal route (free) motorboat, are the extensive ruins of the old
pantheon: bee motifs appear in the surviving Maya codices, and the image of Ah Mucenkab, god and a direct toll road (M$53). Hacienda de Tixchel, a cattle ranch and sugar
of bees, is carved into the friezes of Chichén Itzá, Tulum and Sayil. From Champotón, Hwy 261 leads 84km plantation from the late colonial period. The
Mexico remains the world’s No 4 producer of honey, and the nectar of the Yucatán is especially south to Escárcega. ruins are maintained by Sabancuy’s fishermen,
coveted for its blend of flavors and aromas, a result of the diversity of the region’s flowers. Many who provide transport there. To hire a boat to
campesinos (agricultural workers) keep bees to supplement their agricultural output. However, the CHAMPOTÓN TO SABANCUY the hacienda (M$400), it’s best to reserve in
stingless variety known to the ancient Maya has long since been supplanted by European bees, From Champotón, Hwy 180 continues south- advance: phone Dr José de Jesús Ambrosio Reyes
which in turn are being pushed aside by the more aggressive African bees, notorious among west along the coast. This sparsely developed (%982-825-0128), or go to the Farmacia de Jesús,
handlers for their nasty sting. stretch of seafront is fringed with usually de- one block up from the plaza on the right side
One Maya women’s cooperative in the village of Ich-Ek, near Hopelchén, wants to preserve serted beaches that are ideal for shell-searching of the church.
the ancient heritage. Koolel Kab (Women Who Work with Bees; %996-822-0073) produces honey with expeditions, pelican watching and an occa- About six blocks from the waterfront, the
indigenous melipona bees, which take up residence in hollow trees. Using techniques much like sional dip in the shallow aquamarine waters. minimally managed Hotel Aguilar Salas (%982-
those of their ancestors, the women place sections of tree trunk under a shelter, capping each There are a few rest stops along the way, in- 731-5258; cnr Aldama & Manuel López; r with/without air-con
end of the trunk with mud. An average trunk yields 12L of honey, which is marketed chiefly for cluding at Playa Varadero, about 60km south of M$230/190; as) has a faded façade but mod-
its medicinal properties as throat lozenges, eye drops, soaps and skin creams. Champotón, with cold beer and a few thatched ern rooms inside with pretty tiled floors and
shelters suitable for hanging hammocks, a wood shutters. Rooms in back, overlooking
privilege that will cost around M$5. the pool, are the best.
eerie grandeur that merits a visit. Unlike the Términos, a vast mangrove-fringed lagoon A pair of good seafood eateries can be
CAMPECHE STATE

CAMPECHE STATE
many hilltop sites chosen for Chenes struc- home to riots of migratory birds and a prime LAGUNA DE TÉRMINOS found at Sabancuy’s beach, right across the
tures, Dzibilnocac (‘big painted turtle’ is one sea-turtle nesting spot. The largest lagoon in the Gulf of Mexico area, highway from the bridge. El Crucero (meals M$30-
translation) is on a flat plain, like a large open First-class ADO buses cover the three-hour the Laguna de Términos comprises a net- 70;h8am-5pm), the humbler of the two, whips
park. As Stephens and Catherwood observed journey between Campeche city and Ciudad work of estuaries, dunes, swamps and ponds up an exceptional caldo de pescado (fresh fish
back in 1842, the many scattered hillocks in del Carmen, while both ADO and 2nd-class that together form a uniquely important in a cilantro broth), as well as fried snapper in
the zone, still unexcavated today, attest to the ATS buses service points in-between. coastal habitat. garlic or chili sauce.
presence of a large city. The single clearly dis- Red, white and black mangroves fringe the Sabancuy is easily reached by bus from
cernible structure is A1, a palatial complex CHAMPOTÓN lagoon, and the area is an important nesting Campeche (M$75, two hours, five daily 1st-
upon a 76m platform with a trio of raised pop 27,325 class ADO) or Ciudad del Carmen (M$50, 1¼
Champotón, at the mouth of the river of ground for six species of marine turtle and
temples atop rounded pyramidal bases. The numerous migratory birds. Encompassing hours, five daily ADO).
best preserved of the three, on the east end, has the same name, has great historical sig-
nificance as the landing place of the first not only wildlife habitat but also the state’s
fantastically elaborate monster-mask reliefs on second-largest city and Mexico’s principal Sabancuy to Ciudad del Carmen
each of its four sides and the typically piled-up Spanish exploratory expedition from Cuba,
led by Francisco Hernández de Córdoba, in oil-production center, the lagoon’s ecosystem Another 39km down Hwy 180, at the threshold
Chac masks on three of the four corners. remains threatened by various environmental of the Canal Grande where the Laguna de
Dzibilnocac is located beside the village of 1517. Probably seeking a source of water
along the river, the Spaniards were as- dangers, and in 1994 it was designated a Flora Términos drains into the sea, you reach Isla
Iturbide (also called Vicente Guerrero), 20km and Fauna Protection Area. The area’s fragile Aguada, a primitive fishing community with a
northeast of Dzibalchén. From Campeche’s sailed by warriors under the command of
the cacique Moch Couoh, forcing them to ecosystem was dealt a heavy blow when oil gas station and an old lighthouse. Tiny man-
2nd-class terminal, there are nine buses daily from a damaged rig in the Gulf of Mexico grove islands dot the lagoon here, and birders
to Iturbide via Hopelchén (M$60, three hours), retreat. Hernández de Córdoba died shortly
after his return to Cuba from wounds he re- came ashore in October 2007, arriving at can arrange an excursion to the Isla de Pájaros,
but there’s no place to stay here so you’ll need several beaches in Campeche and Tabasco. where thousands of herons, gulls and magnifi-
to make it back to Hopelchén by nightfall. ceived at Champotón, which from then on
was known as the ‘Bahía de la Mala Pelea’ The extent of environmental damage from cent frigate birds converge at sunset. Inquire at
The rest of the route between here and the 11,700-barrel spill was not known at the Comisaría (%938-109-3983), near Parque Benito
Mérida is covered in the Yucatán State chap- (Bay of the Bad Fight).
Now considered a truck stop between press time. Juárez, to hire a motorboat out to the island; a
ter (see p167). Hemmed in by a narrow strip of land that two-hour excursion for up to eight people costs
Ciudad del Carmen and Campeche,
Champotón sustains itself mainly on fish- is traversed by Hwy 180, the lagoon can be M$800. Hotel Playa Punta Perla (%938-382-1063;
SOUTHWESTERN COAST ing, and perhaps the best reason to stop is to
sample its abundant seafood. Try Cocktelería
explored from various points along the way. r M$320; asc) faces a stretch of deserted
white-sand beach on Isla Aguada’s Gulf side.
This lonely coast gets very little tourism. Las Brisas del Boxito (Av Colosio; h8am-6pm & 8pm- Sabancuy With cheerfully painted two-level blocks amid
Heading down from Campeche city you pass 1am), an open-air tent south of the town center pop 6290 palm-lined grounds, and fresh shrimp and oys-
small fishing villages and deserted white- serving an outstanding sopa de mariscos (sea- One base for exploring the lagoon is Sabancuy, ters from the lagoon served under the shade
sand beaches, finally hitting the Laguna de food soup) packed with octopus, shrimp and a truly picturesque fishing village on the of palapas, it’s the sort of place that fills up at
lower side of an estuary that branches off the Easter and stays empty the rest of the year.
 220 S O U T H W E S T E R N C OA S T • • C i u d a d d e l C a r m e n Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com E S C Á R C E G A T O X P U J I L • • B a l a m k ú 221

From Isla Aguada, the 3.2km Puente La Playa Norte on the Gulf of Mexico has shal- with the house salsa habanera (habanero chili
Unidad (M$47) spans the strait for access to low green waters rolling in lazily to a flat, salsa), served in covered jars. DETOUR: EL TIGRE
Isla del Carmen and Ciudad del Carmen, a expansive beach with coarse sand. After the Restaurante El Marino (%384-1583; Calle 20 No Off Hwy 186 heading southwest from
46km drive further west. heat of the day, join the crowds promenading 2; fish M$100-150; h10am-7pm) This large open- Escárcega is one of Campeche’s most
through the plaza, buy a bag of enamoradas air hall affords terrific views of the bridge recently uncovered Maya sites, El Tigre
CIUDAD DEL CARMEN (cream-filled pastries) and enjoy the sunset as a backdrop for fresh snapper fillets or (% 555-150-1722; admission M$30;h 8am-
%938 / pop 154,200 serenade as grackles settle into the huge lau- crab, served in empanadas or whole with 5pm). Archaeologists are almost certain it
Campeche state’s second-biggest city occupies rels on the plaza. garlic sauce. is none other than Itzamkanac, legendary
the western end of a narrow island between the capital of the Itzáes (see p32 for more on
Gulf of Mexico and the Laguna de Términos. Sleeping Getting There & Away the Itzáes), though much remains to be
Though its self-proclaimed title, ‘Pearl of the Rates tend to be higher here than elsewhere Interjet (%01 800-011-2345; www.interjet.com.mx) has explored. Unlike other Campeche sites, El
Gulf,’ is open to dispute, Ciudad del Carmen on the pPeninsula. flights to/from Toluca daily (except Saturday) Tigre occupies a wetlands environment
is very much a bustling, prosperous seaside Hotel Zacarias (%382-0121; Calle 24 No 58; s/d for under M$500 one way. crisscrossed by rivers, with two well-
town, with freighters anchored in the harbor M$210/270) It’s right across from the cathedral Both 1st-class ADO and 2nd-class Sur buses excavated pyramids amid swaying palms
and salty breezes caressing the malecón. on the main square, which means it’s a cinch use Ciudad del Carmen’s modern terminal and diverse birdlife. From Candelaria take
With the discovery of oil in the 1980s, in- to find this joint. The rooms are bare-bones (%382-0680; Av Periférica s/n), a 15-minute taxi ride the road east to Monclova; a short distance
vestment poured in, the population swelled, but clean, and many have balconies overlook- (M$25, after dark M$30) east of the main beyond the village of Estado de México is
and the 3.8km-long Puente Zacatal (Zacatal ing the plaza, a nice way to pass a few hours plaza. Some key destinations: the turnoff to the site. Buses will only take
Causeway) was completed in 1994, linking the of people-watching. Campeche (M$130 to M$160, three hours, hourly 1st- you to Candelaria.
city with the rest of Mexico. Hotel Playa Dorado (%382-4450; Av Paseo del Mar 8; class ADO buses, one deluxe ADO-GL bus)
Though Ciudad del Carmen rarely sees r M$310; as) At Playa del Norte, this older Mérida (M$250 to M$290, five hours, 11 ADO buses, two
foreign tourists, it does have a renowned lodging has a homey, well-kept feel and a large ADO-GL buses) in Quintana Roo. The highway passes near
and colorful Carnaval celebration, which swimming pool out back. Unfortunately, since Mexico City (M$680 to M$820, 13½ hours, six ADO several fascinating Maya sites including his-
CAMPECHE STATE

CAMPECHE STATE
makes for a fabulous experience. Another Pemex erected offices between the property buses, two ADO-GL buses) torically significant Calakmul and through
exciting event is the Festival de Nuestra Señora and the beachfront, the balconies have lost Villahermosa (M$110 to M$170, three hours, an ADO the ecologically diverse and archaeologi-
de Carmen, which kicks off July 16 when their appeal. bus every 45 minutes until 11pm, four ADO-GL buses) cally rich Reserva de la Biósfera Calakmul.
the port’s patron saint is taken on a cruise Hotel Las Villas (%384-1154; Calle 28 No 116; s/d The largest settlement on the road between
around the harbor, and continues till the M$410/470; a) There are 10 rooms in this cute ATASTA PENINSULA Escárcega and Chetumal is Xpujil. The only
end of the month. little hotel right off the west side of the plaza. West of Ciudad del Carmen across the Puente gas station in the same stretch is about 5km
The spacious rooms have large beds with Zacatal is this lushly tropical peninsula. A east of Xpujil.
Orientation & Information brand-new comforters and spick-and-span scarcely visited ecological wonderland, it Calakmul and most of the other sites in this
Ciudad del Carmen takes up the western bathrooms, perfect for your inner Don Limpio stretches along a thin strip between the Gulf section can be visited by taxis hired in Xpujil
part of Isla del Carmen, with the center (Mr Clean). Go for an upstairs room to avoid and a network of small mangrove-fringed la- or tours booked either in Xpujil (p225) or with
of town at its western extremity and the the noise. There’s a cozy café upstairs. goons that feed into the Laguna de Términos. companies in Campeche city (see p208).
main plaza and malecón facing the channel Various waterfront seafood shacks prepare Among the region’s archaeological sites,
that connects the lagoon to the Gulf. Near Eating crab and shrimp pulled out of the lagoon. the Río Bec architectural style predominates.
the southwestern corner of the island, the At the foot of the Puente Zacatal, the zone Atasta Mangle Tours (%938-286-7026), about 1km It is actually a hybrid of styles fusing elements
Puente Zacatal extends westward 3.8km called La Puntilla has a string of fine seafood east of the village of Atasta, offers two-hour from the Chenes region to the north and Petén
across the strait toward Tabasco. restaurants. boat excursions for up to eight people for to the south. Río Bec structures are charac-
Cyber Café Inbox (Calle 33 No 10; internet per hr M$10; La Fuente (%382-0666; Calle 20 No 203; tamales around M$700. Howler monkeys, manatees terized by long, low buildings divided into
h8am-9:30pm) Check email and make inexpensive M$13, snacks M$25; c) Almost meriting a visit and river turtles may be spotted along the three sections, with a huge ‘monster’ mouth
long-distance phone calls here. to Carmen in itself, this classic waterfront journey through the estuarine waterway. If glaring from a central doorway. The façades
Municipal Tourism Office (%384-2413; Calle 20 s/n, café is a busy gathering place for families and you have your own kayak, Atasta Mangle are decorated with smaller masks and geo-
cnr Calle 31; h8am-4pm) Small module inside the city domino players. It’s an excellent spot to sam- Tours may take you to areas that make great metric designs. At each end are tall, smoothly
hall with a few brochures. ple regional snacks such as tamales torteados exploring. You’ll need one of its guides to rounded towers with banded tiers supporting
(tamales dyed orange by achiote seeds, served prevent you from getting lost. small false temples flanked by extremely steep,
Sights & Activities with red sauce and a bowl of red onions) or nonfunctional steps.
Parque Zaragoza, the central plaza, has a hand- huge pibipollo (chicken tamales traditionally
some 19th-century kiosk. On its north side
is the c 1856 Santuario de la Virgen del Carmen,
cooked underground).
El Último Recurso (%384-1275; Calle 28 No 118; set
ESCÁRCEGA TO XPUJIL BALAMKÚ
which pays homage to the patron saint of lunch M$40; h6am-9pm) Near the central plaza, Hwy 186 heads nearly due east across south- ‘Discovered’ only in 1990, Balamkú (%555-150-
sailors. Vestiges of Carmen’s earlier pros- this workingman’s lunch hall has daily stick- central Campeche state, climbing gradually 2081; admission M$30;h8am-5pm) boasts a remark-
perity remain in the 19th-century mansions of to-your-ribs specials, such as lentil potage from east of the ugly truck-stop town of ably ornate, stuccoed frieze that bears little
chicle barons along Calles 22 and 24, going (Monday) and pollo en pipian (chicken in Escárcega to a broad, jungly plateau and resemblance to any of the known decorative
south from the plaza. squash-seed sauce, Saturday). Fire things up descending again to finally reach Chetumal, elements in the Chenes or Río Bec styles.
 222 E S C Á R C E G A T O X P U J I L • • C a l a k m u l lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels E S C Á R C E G A T O X P U J I L • • C h i c a n n á 223

Well-preserved with traces of its original red or howler monkeys, as well as numerous liz- Mirador, in neighboring Guatemala, and with much. Fifteen spacious bungalows with jungly
paint, the frieze is a richly symbolic tableau ards and snakes. Five of the six wildcats found the aid of binoculars you may be able to spot décor and overhead fans spread out from the
that has been interpreted as showing the in Mexico inhabit the reserve, including the that site’s towering El Tigre pyramid. Work main cabin, where you can dine on a forest-
complementary relationship between our sacred jaguar. The earlier in the day you come, was under way to create a tunnel to a frieze in view terrace until 8pm. A small, kidney-shaped
world and the underworld. Along the base the more wildlife you’re likely to spot. an inner chamber of the pyramid. The tunnel pool at the far end keeps filling up with leaves,
of the scene, stylized seated jaguars (referred was slated for completion in 2008. a sore point with the beleaguered staff.
to in the temple’s Maya name) represent the History A path on the left (east) side of Estructura II
earth’s abundance. These figures alternate From about AD 250 to 695, Calakmul was leads past the palatial Estructura III, with a dozen Getting There & Away
with several grotesque fanged masks, upon the leading city in a vast region known as the rooms atop a raised platform. Archaeologists Xtampak Tours (p208) in Campeche and Río
which stand amphibian-like creatures (toads Kingdom of the Serpent’s Head. Its decline found a tomb inside the 5th-century structure Bec Dreams (p224) near Chicanná run tours
or crocodiles?) that in turn support some began with the power struggles and internal that contained the body of a male ruler of to Calakmul.
royal personages with fantastically elaborate conflicts that followed the defeat by Tikal Calakmul surrounded by offerings of jade, By car, the turnoff to Calakmul is 56km
headdresses. Readers of Spanish can find of Calakmul’s King Garra de Jaguar (Jaguar ceramics and shell beads, and wearing not one west of Xpujil, and the site is 60km south
more details in the explanatory diagrams Claw). Calakmul flourished again in the Late but three jade mosaic masks (one each on his of the highway at the end of a decent paved
that front the frieze. Classic period by forming alliances with the face, chest and belt). Walking south you come road. A toll of M$40 per car (more for heavier
The solid stone that hid the frieze for cen- Río Bec powers to the north. to Estructura I, Calakmul’s second great pyra- vehicles) and M$20 per person is levied by
turies has been replaced with a protective can- As at Tikal, there are indications that con- mid, which is about as tall as Estructura II. the municipio (township) of Calakmul at the
opy with slit windows that let in a little light. struction occurred over a period of more than (Lundell named the site Calakmul, Maya for turnoff from Hwy 186. You’ll need to register
The door is kept locked, but the site custo- a millennium. Beneath Edificio VII, archae- ‘two adjacent mounds,’ in reference to the pair at the Semarnat post.
dian will usually appear to open it and give ologists discovered a burial crypt with some of then-unexcavated pyramids that dominated
you a tour (no flash photography allowed). 2000 pieces of jade, and tombs continue to the site.) The steep climb pays off handsomely CHICANNÁ
Balamkú is 60km west of Xpujil (2km past yield spectacular jade burial masks; many with more top-of-the-world views. Aptly named ‘House of the Snake’s Jaws,’ this
the Calakmul turnoff), then 3km north of of these objects are on display in Campeche A trail leading west from Estructura I Maya site (%555-150-2071; admission M$30; h8am-
CAMPECHE STATE

CAMPECHE STATE
the highway along a fissured road. city’s Fuerte de San Miguel. The cleared area around the back of Estructura II takes you 5pm) is best known for one remarkably well-
of Calakmul holds at least 120 carved stelae, to the Gran Acrópolis, a labyrinthine residential preserved doorway with a hideous fanged
CALAKMUL the oldest dating from 435 BC, registering key zone with a ceremonial sector containing a visage. Located 11km west of Xpujil and 400m
A major city during Maya times, Calakmul events such as the ascent to power of kings and ball court. From the northern perimeter of south of the highway, Chicanná is a mixture of
(%555-150-2073; admission M$37, road maintenance fee per the outcome of conflicts with rival states. this zone, you head east and follow the path Chenes and Río Bec architectural styles buried
car M$40, local tax per person M$20;h8am-5pm) was ‘dis- back to the entrance. in the jungle. The city attained its peak during
covered’ in 1931 by American botanist Cyrus Sights the Late Classic period, from AD 550 to 700,
Lundell. The site bears comparison in size and From the ticket booth at the end of the road Sleeping & Eating as a sort of elite suburb of Becán.
historical significance to Tikal in Guatemala, to the ruins is about a 1km walk through the Rangers allow camping at the Semarnat post, Beyond the admission pavilion, follow the
its chief rival for hegemony over the southern woods. Arrows point out three suggested open from 6am, 20km down the road from rock paths through the jungle to Estructura XX (AD
lowlands during the Classic era. walks, a long, medium and short route. The the Conhuas; they appreciate a donation if 830), which boasts not one but two monster-
A central chunk of its 72-sq-km expanse short route leads straight to the Gran Plaza; you use the shower and toilets. Bear in mind mouth doorways, one above the other. The top
has been consolidated and partially restored the long route directs you through the Gran that it can get chilly on this plateau in winter structure is impressively flanked by rounded
but, owing to ecological considerations, clear- Acrópolis before sending you to the main months – up to three blankets’ worth. stacks of crook-nosed Chac masks.
ing has been kept to a minimum. Most of attractions. Campamento Yaax’che (%983-871-6064; ciitcalak A five-minute walk along the jungle path
the city’s approximately 7200 remnants lie The Gran Plaza, with loads of stelae in front [email protected]; site per person M$50, with tent from brings you to Grupo C, with what remains of
covered in jungle; exploration and restora- of its buildings (Estructura V has the best M$100) More than just a campground, Yaax’che, some of the earliest buildings. Continue along
tion are ongoing. You can get a Calakmul ones), makes a good first stop, and climb- 7km along the access road, is the base for tours the main path about 120m northeast to reach
map online at mayaruins.com/calakmul/ca ing the enormous Estructura II, at the south by Servidores Turísticos Calakmul (p225), a the main plaza. Standing on the east side is
lakmul_map.html. side of the plaza, is a must. Each of this pyra- training center for local guides and an experi- Chicanná’s famous Estructura II, with its gi-
Visiting Calakmul is as much an ecologi- mid’s sides is 140m long, giving it a footprint ment in sustainable ecotourism. You can rent gantic Chenes-style monster-mouth doorway,
cal as an historical experience. Lying at the of just under 2 hectares – one of the largest a prepitched tent or set up your own under believed to depict the jaws of the god Itzamná,
heart of the vast, untrammeled Reserva de la known Maya structures. After a good climb a thatched shelter. There’s no electricity and lord of the heavens, creator of all things. Also
Biósfera Calakmul (which covers close to 15% you’ll reach a temple occupying what appears facilities are primitive – douse-yourself show- worth examining here are the painted glyphs
of the state’s total territory), the ruins are sur- to be the top of the building, but you have ers and lime decomposition latrines. Regional to the right of the mask. When you’re done
rounded by rainforest, with cedar, mahogany, to go around it to the left to reach the real fare is prepared over wood fires with variable snapping photos, take the path leading from
sapodilla and rubber trees dotting a seemingly apex. From here, more than 50m above the results. the right corner of Estructura II to reach
endless canopy of vegetation. While wander- forest floor, you’ll enjoy magnificent views Villas Puerta Calakmul (%988-884-3278, 001-786- nearby Estructura VI with some beautiful profile
ing amid the ruins, you may glimpse wild over the jungle canopy to the photographable 206-9492; www.puertacalakmul.com.mx; cabanas low/high sea- masks upon the façade and a well-preserved
turkeys, parrots and toucans among the 230 Estructura I to the southeast and north across son M$950/1200; s) This jungle lodge 700m from roofcomb. Circle around back, noting the red-
bird species that reside or fly through here. the plaza to Estructura VII. Facing south- the highway turnoff is designed for those who painted blocks of the west wing, then turn
You may also come across peccaries, agoutis west, you’ll be looking toward the Maya city El want to get into nature without roughing it too right to hike back to the main entrance.
 224 E S C Á R C E G A T O X P U J I L • • B e c á n lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels E S C Á R C E G A T O X P U J I L • • X p u j i l 225

oRío Bec Dreams (%983-124-0501; www Monster mask still visible around the central example of the Río Bec style. The three tow- ZOH-LAGUNA
.riobecdreams.com; Hwy 186 Km 142; cabanas with/without doorway. The other side of X opens onto the ers (rather than the usual two) of Estructura Hotel Bosque Modelo (bosquemodelocalakmul@hotmail
bathroom M$800/420) provides unquestionably west plaza, with a ritual ball court. As you I rise above a dozen vaulted rooms. The cen- .com; r M$120) This small wooden structure is a
the best accommodations in the area. This loop around Estructura X to the south, check tral tower, soaring 53m, is the best preserved. typical leftover from the mid-20th-century
Canadian-run jungle lodge has thatched- out the encased stucco mask on display. With its banded tiers and impractically steep logging boom. There are six simple rooms
roofed ‘jungalows’ sharing a bathhouse and From this point you are routed through stairways leading up to a temple that displays with single beds and hammock hooks. This is
cabanas with private bathrooms in the woods. woods to still another massive edifice, Estructura traces of a zoomorphic mask, it gives a good where the French archaeologists have stayed
Environmentally sound facilities include com- I, which takes up one side of the eastern plaza. idea of what the other two must have looked when working on the Río Bec site.
posting toilets, rainwater collection devices Its splendid south wall is flanked by a pair of like back in Xpuhil’s 8th-century heyday. Go Cabañas El Viajero (cabanas M$140, r M$250; a)
and solar electricity. There’s a delightful amazing Río Bec towers rising 15m. Ascend around back to see a fierce jaguar mask em- Travelers can choose from neat little cabins
open-air restaurant serving Euro-Canadian the structure on the right side and follow the bedded in the wall below the temple. or more luxurious air-conditioned rooms
cuisine and a low-key bar with an excellent terrace alongside a series of vaulted rooms The site’s entrance is on the west edge of across the street. All meals are prepared in
library, all set amid lovingly designed gardens. back to the other end, where a passage leads town on the north side of Hwy 186, at the the sparkling kitchen.
Enthusiastic and knowledgeable promoters of you into the Plaza del Este. The most signifi- turnoff for the airport. Cabañas Mercedes (s/d M$150/250) The best value
the zone, owners Rick and Diane also conduct cant structure here is Estructura IV, on the op- place in the area has 13 thoughtfully designed
highly recommended tours of Calakmul, Río posite side of the plaza; experts surmise it was Tours bungalows with ceiling fans and large, tiled
Bec and other sites in the area. Look for the a residence for Becán’s aristocrats. A stairway Rick and Diane at Río Bec Dreams (oppo- bathrooms. Good home-cooked meals are
flags on the north side of the highway 2km leads to an upstairs courtyard ringed by seven site), near Chicanná, provide 4WD tours with served in the thatched-roof dining hall. Don
west of Chicanná. rooms with cross motifs on either side of the well-informed commentary to Calakmul, Antonio is both a gracious and well-informed
doorways. Finally, you descend the north Río Bec and some lesser-known sites such host, who can take you to the major Maya
BECÁN façade of Estructura IV, with more intricately as Oxpemul and Manos Rojas. They charge sites in the area.
Located 8km west of Xpujil and 500m north decorated panels, completing the circle. M$800 to M$1000 for an eight- to 10-hour
of the highway, this must-visit site (%555-150- day, depending on driving time and accessi- XPUJIL
CAMPECHE STATE

CAMPECHE STATE
2069; admission M$30; h8am-5pm) contains three XPUJIL bility of the site. You don’t need to be staying Cabañas de Don Jorge (%871-6128; cabanas M$100)
separate architectural complexes. You should %983 / pop 3222 at Río Bec Dreams to join the tour. Don Jorge’s rustic but perfectly acceptable
set aside at least two hours to explore it prop- The truck-stop hamlet of Xpujil (shpu-heel) Servidores Turísticos Calakmul (% 871-6064; clapboard cabins sit up on a hill behind his
erly. The Maya word for ‘canyon’ or ‘moat’ is lies at the intersection of east–west Hwy 186 [email protected]; Carretera Escárcega-Chetumal store-eatery, Cocina Económica Xpujil, which
becán, and indeed a 2km moat snakes its way and the road north to Hopelchén (and even- Km 153; h 9am-2pm & 3-7pm Mon-Sat), around can be found opposite the entrance to the
around this major site, with seven causeways tually Mérida). From this junction westward 200m east of the Xpujil junction, provides Xpuhil ruins.
providing access to the 12-hectare complex. are the ruins of Xpuhil (less than 1km), Becán ecotours led by trained guides from nearby Hotel Calakmul (%871-6029; 2-person cabanas
The elaborate defense suggests the militaristic (8km), Chicanná (11.5km) and Balamkú communities. In addition to tours of Maya without bathroom M$200, d with air-con M$450; a)
nature of the city which, from around AD 600 (60km); to the south are the remote sites of sites in the area, it also offers nature walks, About 350m west of the junction, this ster-
to 1000, was a regional capital encompassing Río Bec and Hormiguero. While hardly an plant identification, bird-watching and horse ile roadside motel has standard tiled units
Xpujil and Chicanná. A strategic crossroads attractive base for visiting these sites, Xpujil tours, photo safaris and rural tourism ex- plus a handful of cramped bungalows out the
between the Petenes civilization to the south does offer an internet café, a guide service, a periences such as visits to beekeepers and back. The restaurant, though, comes highly
and Chenes to the north, Becán displays archi- handful of hotels, some unexceptional eater- organic farms. On one popular excursion recommended.
tectural elements of both, with the resulting ies and a taxi stand, all within 1km of the bus you can observe millions of bats emerging
composite known as the Río Bec style. depot. The only gas station between Escárcega from a cenote. One-day tours to Calakmul
You enter the complex via the western and Chetumal is 5km east of town. What for up to 10 people cost M$550. It also runs THE ROAD TO RUINS
causeway, skirting Plaza del Este on your left – Xpujil does not have is a bank or ATM. extended camping tours for around M$310 Maya sites around Xpujil are most conven-
more about that later. Proceed through a A far more appealing base is the village of per day. Reservations for the latter should iently reached by organized tour (see left)
66m-long arched passageway and you will Zoh-Laguna, 10km north along the Hopelchén be made a month in advance. Look for head or taxi. The following taxi fares are for the
emerge onto the Plaza Central, ringed by road. Though easily accessible from Xpujil by honchos Fernando and Leticia at the office round trip from Xpujil; add M$60 per hour
three monumental structures. The formida- taxi (M$30), it is sufficiently removed from the or the Yaax’che campground (p223) along for waiting while you’re visiting the site. You
ble Estructura IX, on the plaza’s north side, highway for a peaceful night’s sleep. During the road to Calakmul. can usually negotiate a fare to several sites
is Becán’s tallest building at 32m. Though the 1940s the now-somnolent village boomed on the same route for little more than the
its steeply ascending southern staircase may as a logging center. Zoh-Laguna’s interesting Sleeping & Eating fare to one.
be tempting, you are not supposed to climb history is illustrated photographically in its The nicest and most reasonably priced ac- Balamkú: M$600
it. You may, however, scale Estructura VIII, small museum (admission free; h8am-3pm Mon-Fri), commodations are in Zoh-Laguna, 10km
the huge temple on your right with a pair opposite Hotel Bosque Modelo. north of Xpujil. They are all contactable by Becán: M$75
of towers flanking a colonnaded façade at dialing %200-125-6587, the village’s central Calakmul: M$600
the top. It’s a great vantage point for pho- Xpuhil (Xpujil) Ruins phone booth; say what hotel you want and Chicanná: M$75
tos of Estructura IX and views of the Xpujil Within walking distance of the town of a wait a few minutes. All of the Xpujil options
ruins to the east. Across the plaza from VIII similar name, Xpuhil (admission M$30; h8am-5pm) are along the main highway; have earplugs Hormiguero: M$180
is Estructura X, with fragments of an Earth boasts a surreal skyscraper that is a striking handy at bedtime.
 © Lonely Planet Publications
226 E S C Á R C E G A T O X P U J I L • • A r o u n d X p u j i l lonelyplanet.com 227

EXPLORE THE RÍO BEC ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES

Río Bec (h8am-5pm) is the designation for an agglomeration of small sites, 70 at last count, in
a 100-sq-km area southeast of Xpujil. The very remoteness of the site and ongoing excavations
give it a certain buzz and mystique that’s lacking in the established sites. Couple this with the
fact that it’s nearly impossible to get here during the rainy season and you have the makings
for a real adventure.
Grupo B has some of the best-restored buildings, particularly the magnificent Estructura I,
dating from around AD 700. Discovered in 1907 by French archaeologist Maurice de Périgny,
who named the site after a nearby water source, this palatial structure features a pair of typical
tiered towers crowned by matching temples with cross motifs on their sides. Much of the cur-
rent restoration work is being done at Grupo A, to the north of Grupo B. Its main structure is a
15m-long palace with intact towers and unusual bas-relief glyphs on the lower panels.
Access to the sites is from the collective farm of Ejido 20 de Noviembre. To get there, turn
south off Hwy 186, about 10km east of the Xpujil junction, and follow a potholed road 5km to the
community and its U’lu’um Chac Yuk Nature Reserve. From there, a very rough road leads 13km
further south to the site. It’s only passable when dry and even then you need a high-clearance
vehicle. Furthermore, the way is unsigned with many twists and turns. You’re best off hiring a
guide with a 4WD truck. It’s possible to arrange this in Xpujil or at the ejido; the going rate is
M$600 to M$700. A taxi from Xpujil’s main junction to the ejido will charge M$60 for drop-off
service; negotiate waiting time. Alternatively, check with Río Bec Dreams (p224) near Chicanná.
CAMPECHE STATE

Aside from the hotel restaurants, there See boxed text, p225, for taxi rates. The taxi

CAPECHE STATE
are various greasy spoons clustered around stand is on the north side of the junction.
the bus station and roadside taquerías (taco
places) toward the Xpuhil ruins. Try Antojitos AROUND XPUJIL
Mimi, opposite Hotel Calakmul, for some Hormiguero
pretty fine salbutes (tortilla topped with shred- Though not easy to reach, Hormiguero (%555-
ded turkey or chicken, onion and slices of 150-2075; admission M$30; h8am-5pm) has many
avocado) and an ice-cold agua de jamaica (a mind-blowing buildings that will impress
cold tangy tea made from hibiscus flowers). even the most jaded explorer. An old site,
with buildings dating as far back as AD 50,
Getting There & Around the city (whose name is Spanish for ‘anthill’)
No buses originate in Xpujil, so you must flourished during the late Classic period.
hope to luck into a vacant seat on one passing As you enter you’ll see the 50m-long
through. The bus terminal (%871-6027) is just Estructura II. The facade’s chief feature is a
east of the Xpujil junction, on the north side very menacing Chenes-style monster-mouth
of the highway. doorway, jaws open wide, set back between a
Campeche (M$78 to M$160, 5½ hours, via Escárcega one pair of classic Río Bec tiered towers. Walking
1st-class Ado bus at 1:45pm and two 2nd-class Sur buses, around the back of the building you can see
via Hopelchén one Sur bus) solid intact Maya stonework and the remains
Cancún (M$280, 6½ hours, two ADO buses) of several columns. Follow the arrows 60m to
Chetumal (M$70, 1½ hours, three ADO buses and one the north to reach Estructura V, with a much
Sur bus) smaller but equally ornate open-jawed temple
Escárcega (M$90, two hours, seven ADO buses) atop a pyramidal base. Climb the right side for
Hopelchén (M$90, three hours, one Sur bus at 4am) a closer look at the incredibly detailed stone- © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
Palenque (M$220, six hours, one 1st-class OCC bus at work, especially along the corner columns restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
9:40pm or change at Escárcega for a 1pm ADO bus to that flank the doorway.
Palenque) This site is reached by heading 14km south only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
from Xpujil junction, then turning right and everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
For Becán, Hormiguero, Calakmul or other going 8km west on what was once a paved road, the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
sites you will need to book a tour or hire a cab. still passable except following heavy rains.
 226 227

Tabasco & Chiapas

Mismatched siblings, the neighboring states of Tabasco and Chiapas are almost a study in
opposites. Smaller Tabasco – between central Mexico and the Yucatán Peninsula – is less
diverse than Chiapas, and prone to flooding, as demonstrated by the catastrophic flood of
October 2007 (see boxed text, p228). A largely flat, steamy, well-watered lowland, it has fewer
visitors, but those who do drop in discover a place with fascinating pre-Hispanic heritage
from the Olmec and Maya civilizations, a relaxed tropical lifestyle, an entertaining capital
city in Villahermosa, and a unique environment of enormous rivers, endless wetlands and
good Gulf of Mexico beaches.

In Chiapas, pine-forest highlands, wildlife-rich rainforest jungles and well-preserved co-

lonial cities highlight a region of incredible variety. Palenque and Yaxchilán are evocative
vestiges of powerful Maya kingdoms, and the presence of modern Maya a constant reminder
of the region’s rich and uninterrupted history. The colonial architecture of San Cristóbal de
Las Casas and Chiapa de Corzo gives way to fertile plots of coffee and cacao in the south-
western region known as the Soconusco, and for outdoor adventurers, excursions to Laguna
Miramar and the Cañón del Sumidero are unmissable.
TOBASCO & CHIAPAS

TABASCO & CHIAPAS

HIGHLIGHTS
Scaling the jungly hills and soaring Maya
temples of Palenque (p240)
Strolling the high-altitude cobblestone
La Venta
streets of San Cristóbal de Las Casas (p231) Villahermosa

Cruising through the waterway and sheer Palenque

high rock cliffs of the spectacular Cañón del
Cañón del
Sumidero (see boxed text, p245) Sumidero
Laguna
Hiking in and lazing away a few splendid days San Cristóbal Miramar
de Las Casas
at the mountain-ringed Laguna Miramar
(see boxed text, p245)
Admiring the mysterious art of the ancient
Olmecs at Villahermosa (p228) and
La Venta (p228)

POPULATION: TABASCO 2 MILLION; AREA: TABASCO 25,267 SQ KM;

CHIAPAS 4.3 MILLION CHIAPAS 74,211 SQ KM
 228 TA B A S C O • • V i l l a h e r m o s a Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels TA B A S C O • • V i l l a h e r m o s a 229

TABASCO Orientation
The central area, known as the Zona Luz,
downtown hotel, with comfortable, spick-
and-span rooms.
Getting There & Away
AIR
extends north–south from Parque Juárez to Hotel Olmeca Plaza (%358-0102, 800-201-09-09; Villahermosa’s Aeropuerto Rovirosa (%356-
Few travelers linger in Tabasco longer than the Plaza de Armas, and east–west from the www.hotelolmecaplaza.com; Madero 418; r Mon-Thu M$750, 0157) is 13km east of the city center, off
it takes to see the outstanding Olmec stone Río Grijalva to roughly Calle 5 de Mayo. The Fri-Sun M$590; pnais) The classiest Hwy 186. Nonstop or one-stop direct flights
sculpture in Villahermosa’s Parque-Museo main bus terminals are between 750m and downtown hotel also has an open-air pool to/from Villahermosa include the follow-
La Venta. But staying a little longer will 1km to its north. and well-equipped gym. Rooms are modern ing destinations: Cancún (Click Mexicana,
reveal a very rewarding slice of the real Parque-Museo La Venta lies 2km north- and comfortable. flies daily), Houston, Texas (Continental
Mexico, with few other tourists, some in- west of the Zona Luz, beside Avenida Ruíz Market (Hermanos Bastar Zozaya s/n; h5am-7pm) Airlines, flies daily), Mérida (Aviacsa and
triguing pre-Hispanic sites (both the Olmecs Cortines, the main east–west highway cross- Fresh vegetables, chilies, fish, meat and big Click Mexicana, flights daily), Mexico
and the Maya flourished here), and a large ing the city. West of Parque-Museo La Venta dollops of local atmosphere. City (Aeroméxico, Aviacsa and Mexicana
and lively capital city. is the Tabasco 2000 district of modern com- Riviera Villahermosa (%312-4468; Constitución 104; de Aviación, eight or more flights daily),
In late October and early November mercial and government buildings. mains M$75-160; h1pm-2am Mon-Sat, noon-6pm Sun) Monterrey (Aeroméxico and Aviacsa, both
2007, prolonged heavy rainfall led to major The Euro-Mex menu is pretty good, and the with one nonstop flight daily), Oaxaca (Click
floods here, submerging a whopping 80% of Information air-conditioned 4th-floor setting with floor- Mexicana, flies daily), Tuxtla Gutiérrez
the state. The federal government quickly Hospital Cruz Roja (%315-5555; Av Sandino s/n) to-ceiling windows overlooking the river (Click Mexicana, flies daily) and Veracruz
mobilized food distribution and emer- Main post office (Sáenz 131; h9am-3pm Mon-Fri, is spectacular. (Aeroméxico, flies daily).
gency shelters, and relief donation centers 9am-1pm Sat)
sprouted up nationwide as people pitched Tourist office (Av Ruíz Cortines;h8am-4pm Tue-Sun)
in to head off the humanitarian crisis. TABASCO & CHIAPAS 0
0
60 km
40 miles
In the Parque-Museo La Venta.
To Campeche
Though the floodwaters have receded, full 93ºW
(130km)
91ºW

economic recovery is expected to take years. Gulf of Mexico

Sights Reserva de la
Biósfera Pántanos
MEX
261 To Chetumal
By early 2008 most infrastructure, attrac- The fascinating outdoor Parque-Museo La Venta Laguna de Centla
Ciudad del
Carmen MEX
(120km)
Bahía de Campeche
MEX
Laguna de 186
tions and travelers’ services were already (%314-1652; Av Ruíz Cortines; admission M$40; h8am- Barra de
Puerto Mecoacán 180
Terminos Escárcega
Ceiba Frontera
up and running. 5pm, last admission 4pm, zoo closed Mon; c) was created Laguna
Tupilco
Paraíso Punta Manglar
El Carmen
Campeche

j alva
Comalcalco Río
in 1958, when petroleum exploration threat- Comalcalco
MEX
180 Us MEX
Coatzacoalcos i um 186 Reserva de
ened the highly important ancient Olmec Gr Candelaria
VILLAHERMOSA MEX
La Venta
Tabasco Rí
o Jonuta la Biósfera

ac
180D La Venta Calakmul
settlement of La Venta in western Tabasco. Cárdenas

i nt a
MEX
VILLAHERMOSA
%993 / pop 673,000 180

R ío
This sprawling, flat, hot and humid city, Archaeologists moved the site’s most sig- To Puebla
Huimanguillo
Reforma Ciudad
Pemex
Ca
nd
nificant finds, including three colossal stone Catazajá Emiliano Zapata el a
with over a quarter of Tabasco’s population, MEX
186
ri a

was never the ‘beautiful town’ its name im- heads, to Villahermosa. The park features a Teapa Reserva de la
Palenque Tenosique
plies, but it takes advantage of its position zoo, sculpture trail and sound-and-light show (admis- Veracruz Pichucalco Palenque Biósfera Maya
Malpasito Río Chancalá La Palma
on the winding Río Grijalva, with a wel- sion M$100; hhourly 7-10pm, closed Mon). MEX
195
Misol-Ha
Sa n
MEXICO Presa
Tila Agua Piedras R ío Pe d r o
come riverside leisure development a cou- Next to the park entrance, the Museo de Netzahualcóyotl Azul Agua Clara Negras El Naranjo
Simojovel
TABASCO & CHIAPAS

Parque Nacional

TABASCO & CHIAPAS

ple of blocks from the pedestrianized city Historia Natural (%31421-75; admission M$15; h8am- 17ºN Rí
oL Cañón del San Juan
Metzabok Ca
rre
t
de la Sierra 17ºN

Fro
era
4pm Tue-Sun) has quite well-set-out displays on Reserva de a V Sumidero Soyaló Chamula Nahá del Lacandón

nt
center. Still, when the river burst its banks Yaxchilán

eri
Ocosingo
la Biósfera
Oaxaca Selva Toniná SELVA

za
en
LACONDA San Javier La Técnica La Libertad
dinosaurs, space, early humanity and Tabascan El Ocote San Lorenzo

ta
Frontera Corozal
and engulfed the city in 2007, the result Ocozocoautla Zinacantán San Cristóbal Altamirano Lacanjá Chansayab
de Las Casas Bethel El Subín
looked like New Orleans after Hurricane ecosystems (all in Spanish). The park is 3km To Juchitán Cintalapa TUXTLA Chiapa de Corzo Amatenango Reserva de la
Bonampak
GUTIÉRREZ Biósfera Montes Benemérito Sayaxché Ceibal
Katrina. from the Zona Luz. MEX
190
MEX
MEX
del Valle Azules de las Pipiles
190 195 Laguna Américas
The Regional Anthropology Museum (%312- Chiapas
Las San Quintín
Miramar Pico de
Dos Pilas
Venustiano Margaritas 5
6344; Periférico Carlos Pellicer; admission M$25; h9am-5pm Mar
Muerto
Arriaga Carranza Comitán
La Realidad
PN Lagunas Amatitlán
Oro
Reserva de la
MEX
de Montebello Chajul
TABASCO FLOODS OF 2007 Tue-Sun) is a little dilapidated and poorly labeled 200
Tonalá La Trinitaria Las Nubes
Ixcán Reforma Biósfera
Agraria Lacan-tun
Paredón Presa La
Due to the severe flooding that hit the state (in Spanish only), but still holds some inter- Reserva
Angostura MEX
Tziscao
Puerto 190 Playa
of Tabasco during the time of this book’s esting exhibits. The museum is 1km south of Arista
Boca
de la Biósfera
El Triunfo
Jaltenango
(Ángel Albino
Grande

research, making all routes nearly impass- the Zona Luz. del Cielo Corzo)
GUATEMALA
Pijijiapan La Mesilla Reserva Natural
Ciudad
able, our author could not access the state. Cuauhtémoc Parque Nacional Cerro Bisís 5
El
Our research for this section consisted of Tours PACIFIC Reserva So
co
Mapastepec
Los Cuchumatanes
Cobán
OCEAN de la Biósfera nu Motozintla Huehuetenango
personal contacts by phone and internet, Turismo Nieves (%314-1888; reservaya@turismonieves La Encrucijada sc
o Escuintla
Sacapulas
and input from local citizens and fellow .com.mx; Sarlat 202; h8am-7pm Mon-Sat) offers a range Barra de Embarcadero
Zacapulco Las Garzas Huixtla Tacaná (4110m) 1 Salamá 14

travelers. At the time of publication, the of comprehensive tours around Tabasco. 15ºN MEX Uníon Juárez
200 Izapa Talismán
15ºN

state was still in recovery. While we’ve tried San José El Carmen 5
Quetzaltenango
our best to ensure the text is current and Sleeping & Eating El Hueyate
Mazatán Tapachula
9

Puerto Lago de
useful to travelers, some of these listings Hotel Oriente (% 312-0121; fax 312-1101; Madero Madero Ciudad Ciudad Atitlán Chimaltenango
Hidalgo Tecún Umán
GUATEMALA
may be out of date. 425; s/d/tr with fan M$220/250/360, with air-con Antigua CITY
2
M$300/330/420; a) The Oriente is a well-run 93ºW 91ºW
 230 TA B A S C O • • A r o u n d V i l l a h e r m o s a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C H I A PA S • • S a n C r i s t ó b a l d e L a s C a s a s 231

BUS & COLECTIVO TAXI GETTING THERE & AWAY

The 1st-class ADO bus terminal (%312-8422; Mina Comalcalco’s ADO bus terminal (%334-0007; cnr EXPLORE MORE OF TABASCO
297) is 750m north of the Zona Luz and has López Mateos & Monserrat) by the clock tower (El This section only scratches the surface of the adventures to be had here. For more info, visit
a luggage room. Deluxe and 1st-class UNO, Reloj) is on the main road, 300m east of the www.lonelyplanet.com or try out some of these DIY adventures:
ADO and OCC buses run from here, as well town center. It has 1st- and 2nd-class buses
as a few 2nd-class services. For a sample of to Villahermosa (M$54, 1½ hours, seven Cacao Haciendas Discover the past at Hacienda La Luz, just west of Comalcalco’s central plaza.
departures from the ADO bus terminal (most daily), Paraíso (M$15, 20 minutes, 25 daily), Gulf Beaches Explore around Puerto Ceiba, where you can take boat rides into Laguna
in the evening), see the table (below). Frontera (M$66, 2½ hours, three daily) and Mecoacán. Or cruise the lost roads along the Barra de Tupilco.
more distant destinations. La Venta While most of the cool artifacts have been moved to the museum in Villahermosa,
Getting Around this site, 128km west of Villahermosa, is still worth a visit.
A taxi from the airport to the city center costs Reserva de la Biósfera Pántanos de
Malpasito Up in Tabasco’s beautiful and mountainous far southwestern corner, tiny Malpasito
around M$180 (M$150 from the city to the air- Centla
is the site of mysterious ancient Zoque ruins.
port) and takes about 25 minutes. Any taxi ride This 3030-sq-km biosphere reserve protects
within the area between Avenida Ruíz Cortines, a good part of the wetlands around the lower Southern Tabasco Explore riverside swimming holes and caves, using Teapa, 50km south of
the Río Grijalva and Paseo Usumacinta costs reaches of two of Mexico’s biggest rivers, Río Villahermosa, as your base.
M$15. Combi (a catch-all term used for taxi, Usumacinta and Río Grijalva. These lakes,
van and minibus services regardless of vehicle marshes, rivers, mangroves, savannas and
type) rides within the same area are M$5. forests are an irreplaceable sanctuary for a block south of the plaza, and colectivos 1½ you plan to travel off the main roads in the
countless creatures, including the West Indian blocks south of the plaza) charge M$10 for the Chiapas highlands, the Ocosingo area and
AROUND VILLAHERMOSA manatee and Morelet’s crocodile (both en- 15-minute trip to Punta Manglar or Uyotot-Ja. far eastern Chiapas, take local advice about
Comalcalco dangered), six kinds of tortoise, tapir, ocelots, Some continue to Jonuta (M$50, three hours), where to avoid going. Numerous military
%933 / pop 40,000 jaguars, howler monkeys, 60 fish species, in- where buses leave for Villahermosa, Palenque checkpoints have increased security for travel-
The impressive ruins of ancient Comalcalco cluding the pejelagarto, and 230 bird species – and other destinations. ers, though it’s best to be off the Carretera
(admission M$35; h10am-4pm) make a visit to not to mention 15,000 people scattered in 90 Fronteriza or across the Guatemalan border
before dark. Indigenous villages are often
this hot, bustling town, 51km northwest of
Villahermosa, worthwhile. This Maya site
small waterside villages.
A paved, and in parts rough, road follows CHIAPAS extremely close-knit, and their people can
be suspicious of outsiders and particularly
is unique because many of its buildings are the broad winding Río Usumacinta, right Chilly pine forest highlands, sultry rainforest
constructed of bricks and/or mortar made across the reserve from the Río Grijalva bridge sensitive about having their photos taken. If
jungles and attractive colonial cities exist side in any doubt at all, ask first.
from oyster shells. Comalcalco was at its peak near Frontera, eventually reaching the town by side within Mexico’s southernmost state,
between AD 600 and 1000, when ruled by the of Jonuta (from which other roads lead to the a region awash in the legacy of Spanish rule
Chontals. It remained an important center of major east–west Hwy 186). Ten kilometers SAN CRISTÓBAL DE LAS CASAS
and the remnants of ancient Maya kingdoms. %967 / pop 142,000 / elev 2160m
commerce for several more centuries. along this road, Punta Manglar (%913-403-9763; The state has the second-largest indigenous
The museum at the entrance has a fine Set in a gorgeous highland valley surrounded
Hwy Frontera–Jonuta Km 10; h9am-4pm Tue-Sun) is an population in the country, and the modern
array of sculptures and engravings of human by pine forest, the colonial city of San Cristóbal
embarkation point for boat-and-foot excur- Maya of Chiapas form a direct link to the (cris-toh-bal) has been a popular travelers’ desti-
heads, deities, glyphs and animals, such as sions (%913-403-9842; up to 7 people M$500;htrips
TABASCO & CHIAPAS

TABASCO & CHIAPAS

past, with a traditional culture that persists to nation for decades. It’s a pleasure to explore San
crocodiles and pelicans. 6am-7pm) into the mangroves, where you should this day. Many indigenous communities rely
The site is 1km (signposted) off the Cristóbal’s cobbled streets and markets, soaking
see crocodiles, iguanas, birds and, with luck, on subsistence farming and have no running up the unique ambience and the wonderfully
Comalcalco–Paraíso road. Vans to the turnoff howler monkeys. water or electricity, and it was frustration over
(M$5) stop outside Comalcalco’s ADO bus clear highland light. This medium-sized city
The reserve’s visitors center, the Centro de lack of political power and their historical also boasts a comfortable blend of city and coun-
terminal (for details, see right). A taxi to the Interpretación Uyotot-Ja (%993-313-9362; Carretera mistreatment that fueled the Zapatista re-
site costs around M$20. tryside, with restored century-old houses giving
Frontera–Jonuta Km 12.5; admission M$25; h9am-4pm bellion, putting a spotlight on the region’s
The Hotel Copacabana (%334-1933, 800-224-77- way to grazing animals and fields of corn.
Tue-Sun), is a further 2.5km along the road. distinct inequities.
77; www.hotelcopacabana.com.mx; cnr Juárez & Serdán; s/d
Surrounded by dozens of traditional Tzotzil
Gray combis and colectivos (shared vans) Chiapas contains swaths of wild green and Tzeltal villages, San Cristóbal is at the
M$595/712; pa) is the best hotel in town. from Calle Madero in Frontera (combis half landscape that have nourished its inhabit- heart of one of the most deeply rooted indig-
ants for centuries. From the Selva Lacandona enous areas in Mexico. A great base for local
(Lacandon Jungle) to the biosphere reserves of and regional exploration, it’s a place where an-
BUS SERVICES FROM VILLAHERMOSA El Triunfo and Selva El Ocote, Chiapas offers cient customs coexist with modern luxuries.
Destination Fare ($M) Duration (hr) Departures incredible opportunities for outdoor adven-
Campeche 278-318 6-7 17 daily tures. But a rich trove of natural resources also Orientation
Cancún 550-960 12-14 21 daily makes it a contentious prize in a struggle for San Cristóbal is very walkable, with straight
Mérida 390-608 8-9 19 daily its water, lumber, and oil and gas reserves. streets rambling up and down several gentle
Palenque 95 2½ 13 daily hills. The Pan-American Hwy (Hwy 190, Blvd
San Cristóbal de Las Casas 204 7 2 daily Dangers & Annoyances Juan Sabines, ‘El Bulevar’) runs through the
Tuxtla Gutiérrez 200-240 4-8 13 daily There have been no Zapatista-related inci- southern part of town, and nearly all trans-
dents affecting travelers for some time. If portation terminals are on it or nearby. From
 232 C H I A PA S • • S a n C r i s t ó b a l d e L a s C a s a s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C H I A PA S • • S a n C r i s t ó b a l d e L a s C a s a s 233

the OCC bus terminal, it’s six blocks north

SAN CRISTÓBAL DE LAS CASAS 0
0
200 m
0.1 miles
up Avenida Insurgentes to the central square,
29
A B To Museo de la C D E F Plaza 31 de Marzo. Calle Real de Guadalupe,
Medicina Maya
heading east from the plaza, has a concentra-

Caminero
(500m) Puente Tercera Calle
Tiboli
o A m a ril l o tion of places to stay and eat. A long pedes-
Rí
1 44 1
trian mall, the Andador Turístico (or Andador
43
Honduras Robledo Segunda Calle Eclesiástico), runs up Avenidas Hidalgo and

Lázaro Cárdenas
20 de Noviembre from the Arco de El Carmen

Calzada Ro
Díaz Ordaz in the south to the Templo de Santo Domingo
Colombia

16 de Septiembre
17
Mercado
Ecuador

in the north, crossing Plaza 31 de Marzo en

Arge

Municipal Bermudas Primera Calle

46
route. The Cerro San Cristóbal and Cerro de
ntina

Templo de

berta
Los Mexicanos
Re Nicaragu
a iaga
Guadalupe lord over the town from the west
al d l Arr
eM ona and east, respectively.
exic Diag anz Blom
Brasil a
11
Calzada Fr
Canada

no Tonalá
s

Isabel la
Católica
21
2 Venezuela Iglesia
El Cerrillo
Chiapa de Corzo 2 Information
22 19
Plaza San Cristóbal has dozens of inexpensive

Yajalon

Dujelay
Colón

tla
Comitán

ero
cybercafés.

Huix

Guerr
Park Templo de 35
Escuadrón 20 la Caridad Tapachula Banamex (Plaza 31 de Marzo; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri,
1
32
10am-2pm Sat) Has an ATM.
(Anador Turístico)

Dr N
avarr
o
Cintalapa
Hospital Amigo del Niño y de la Madre (%678-0770;
30
Belisario Domínguez Av Insurgentes) General hospital with emergency facilities.
Ejército Nacional
r 28 de Agosto La Pared (%/fax 678-6367; [email protected]; Av
A m a illo
Río Hidalgo 2; h10am-2pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat, 3-7:30pm
Paniagua
Utrilla
20 de Noviembre

3 1 de Marzo
3 Sun) Stocks a great choice of new and used books in English.
5 de Mayo

27 Lavandería La Rapidita (%678-8059; Av Insurgentes

12 de Octubre

14
28 37 MA Flores
26
39 25 Cerro de 9; self-service per 5kg M$25, service wash per 3kg M$45;
5 de Febrero 10 45
31 36 24
Real de Guadalupe
Guadalupe
h9am-8pm Mon-Sat)
33
To Instituto Nacional
Guadalupe Victoria 50
20 13 Main post office (%678-0765; Av Allende 3;
de Migración (600m); Plaza 31 47
San Juan Chamula (10km);
San Lorenzo
Palacio 7 de Marzo 1
Madero h8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8:30am-1pm Sat)
Municipal SLEEPING Municipal tourist office (%678-0665; Palacio
Santiago

La Almolonga
Zinacantán (11km) 48
Mazariegos 3 Casa Felipe Flores...................... 23 D4
(Anador Turístico)

15
Plazuela 6 8 JF Flores
23
To Camping Casa Margarita.......................... 24 C3 Municipal, Plaza 31 de Marzo; h8:30am-7pm Mon-Fri,
4 Rancho San Hostal Rincón de los Camellos....25 E3 8am-8.30pm Sat & Sun)
Insurgentes

de la
18 Merced Nicolás (1km)
Cuauhtémoc Hotel Casavieja.......................... 26 D3
4 Ro Templo de 5
38 Hotel Diego de Mazariegos........27 C3 4 State tourist office (%678-1467; Av Hidalgo 1B;
Juárez

sse la Compañía
te Hotel El Paraíso..........................28 B3
León
Na Bolom................................(see 19)
h8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-8pm Sat, 9am-2pm Sun)
Niños Héroes Templo de
TABASCO & CHIAPAS

TABASCO & CHIAPAS

INFORMATION Parador San Juan de Dios............29 E1 Has English-speaking staff and plenty of leaflets; located
Hidalgo

San Francisco Libertad

34 Banamex......................................1 C4 Posada Ganesha.........................30 B3
16
Hospital Amigo del Niño y de la one floor up but no signs. It may be moving to the Centro
Hermanos Domínguez Madre......................................2 C5 EATING Cultural El Carmen (p235).
Templo del HSBC...........................................3 B4
Carmen 9 Park El Gato Gordo............................31 C3
La Pared.......................................4 B4 La Casa del Pan Papalotl ...........32 C2
l

12
e
ba

Sights
Crescencio Rosas

Lavandería La Rapidita.................5 C4
d

o L'Eden......................................(see 28)
tó

rr s Main Post Office..........................6 B4 Los Barrios.................................33 A3

C e Cri Municipal Tourist Office...............7 B4 Madre Tierra.............................. 34 C4 PLAZA 31 DE MARZO
San 2 State Tourist Office......................8 B4 Pizzeria El Punto.........................35 C2 The leafy main plaza is a fine place to take in
TierrAdentro.............................. 36 C3
5 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES 5 San Cristóbal’s unhurried atmosphere. On the
Arco de El Carmen.......................9 B5
Obregón
Cathedral...................................10 B3
ENTERTAINMENT north side of the plaza, the cathedral was begun
Café Museo Café.......................37 C3
in 1528 but wasn’t completed till 1815 because
Sarabia

Allende

Centro Cultural de los Altos.......11 C2 DaDa Club................................. 38 C4

Centro Cultural El Carmen..........12 B5 La Pera.......................................39 C3 of several natural disasters. Sure enough, new
Nuño

Iglesia de
Santa Lucía El Puente Spanish Language
Robles School................................... 13 D3 earthquakes struck in 1816 and 1847, caus-
TRANSPORT
Explora.......................................14 A3 ADO Bus Terminal..................... 40 C6
Blvd Juan
Sabines Hotel Santa Clara.......................15 C4 AEXA Bus Terminal.................... 41 C6
ing considerable damage, but it was restored
(Pan-A Pino Suárez Hermanos Iglesia de San Cristóbal..............16 A4 again in 1920–22. The gold-leaf interior has five
To Tuxtla Gutiérrez (60km); merican Pineda Colectivos to Tuxtla Gutiérrez.... 42 C6
Chiapa de Corzo (68km) Hwy) MEX Mercado Municipal....................17 C1 Combis to San Juan Chamula.....43 B1
190
40 Museo del Ámbarg de o t i cChiapas....
o 18 A4 Combis to Zinacantán................44 C1
gilded altarpieces featuring 18th-century paint-
Fo
Na Bolom...................................
roy
o 19 E2 Croozy Scooters.........................45 C3 ings by Miguel Cabrera. The Hotel Santa Clara,
Otisa..........................................
Ar 20 C3 Los Pingüinos.............................46 A1
6 42 Sna Jolobil..................................21 C2 Mexicana de Aviación................ 47 C4 6 on the plaza’s southeast corner, was built by
41 Templo de Santo Domingo.........22 B2 OCC Bus Terminal...................(see 40) Diego de Mazariegos, the Spanish conqueror
49 Optima...................................... 48 A4
Suburbans to Comitán............... 49 C6 of Chiapas. His coat of arms is engraved above
To Grutas de San Cristóbal (9km);
Amatenango del Valle (37km); Comitán (90km);
Ticket Bus.................................. 50 C3 the main portal. The house is a rare secular
Ocosingo (98km); Palenque (218km) UNO Transportes Bus Terminal..(see 40)
example of plateresque style in Mexico.
 234 C H I A PA S • • S a n C r i s t ó b a l d e L a s C a s a s lonelyplanet.com Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels C H I A PA S • • S a n C r i s t ó b a l d e L a s C a s a s 235

or Spanish regular/student M$45/20; h10am-6pm, Spanish Courses

THE ZAPATISTAS tour 11:30am, English tour 4:30pm, no tours Mon) was the For language classes, contact El Puente Spanish
On January 1, 1994, the obscure day of the North American Free Trade Agreement’s (NAFTA) home of Swiss anthropologist and photo- Language School (%678-3723; www.elpuenteweb.com;
initiation, a previously unknown leftist guerrilla army emerged from the forests to occupy San grapher Gertrude Duby-Blom (Trudy Blom; Calle Real de Guadalupe 55), which offers individual/
Cristóbal de Las Casas and other towns in Chiapas. The Ejército Zapatista de Liberación Nacional 1901–93) and her Danish archaeologist hus- group lessons per week for M$2300/1900.
(EZLN; Zapatista National Liberation Army) linked antiglobalization rhetoric with Mexican revo- band Frans Blom (1893–1963).
lutionary slogans, declaring that they aimed to overturn the oligarchy’s centuries-old hold on Na Bolom means ‘Jaguar House’ in the Tours
land, resources and power and to improve the wretched living standards of Mexico’s indigenous Tzotzil language (as well as being a play on Recommended tour agencies include the
people. its former owners’ name). It’s full of photo- following:
The Mexican army evicted the Zapatistas within days, and the rebels retreated to the fringes graphs, archaeological and anthropological Explora (%678-4295; www.ecochiapas.com; 1 de
of the Selva Lacandona (Lacandon Jungle) to wage a propaganda war, mainly fought via the relics, and books. Marzo 30; h9:30am-2pm & 4-8pm Mon-Fri,
internet. The Zapatistas’ balaclava-clad, pipe-puffing Subcomandante Marcos (actually a former 9:30am-2pm Sat) Adventure trips to the Selva Lacandona
university professor named Rafael Guillén) rapidly became a cult figure. High-profile conventions MERCADO MUNICIPAL (Lacandon Jungle; four/five days M$3600/4540, minimum
against neoliberalism were held and international supporters flocked to Zapatista headquarters For a closer look at local life – and an as- four people) and more.
at La Realidad, 80km southeast of Comitán, and Zapatista-aligned peasants took over hundreds sault on the senses – visit San Cristóbal’s Otisa (%678-1933; www.otisatravel.com; Calle Real de
of farms and ranches in Chiapas. busy Mercado Municipal (Municipal Market; hap- Guadalupe 3; h8am-9pm)
In 1996 Zapatista and Mexican government negotiators agreed to a set of accords on indigenous prox 7am-5pm), eight blocks north of Plaza 31
rights and autonomy. However, the governing Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) never ratified de Marzo between Avenidas Utrilla and Festivals & Events
these agreements, and through 1997 and 1998 tension and killings escalated in Chiapas. A PRI- Belisario Domínguez. Semana Santa The crucifixion is acted out on Good Fri-
linked paramilitary group massacred 45 people in the village of Acteal, north of San Cristóbal, in day in the Barrio de Mexicanos in the northwest of town.
1997. By 1999 an estimated 21,000 villagers had fled their homes after the Mexican army, aided MUSEO DE LA MEDICINA MAYA Feria de la Primavera y de la Paz (Spring and Peace
and abetted by paramilitaries, launched a campaign of intimidation. The award-winning Museo de la Medicina Maya Fair) Easter Sunday is the start of the weeklong town fair,
After Vicente Fox was elected Mexico’s president in 2000, two attempts to make the necessary (Maya Medicine Museum;%678-5438; www.medicinamaya with parades, musical events, bullfights and so on.
constitutional changes failed. The Zapatistas refused to participate in further talks, concentrating .org; Salomón González Blanco 10; admission M$20; h10am- Festival Cervantino Barroco In late October and early
instead on consolidating their revolution and their autonomy in the villages of highland and 6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun) introduces the sys- November, this is a lively cultural program with music,
eastern Chiapas, where they had the most support. tem of traditional medicine used by many dance and theater.
More recently the Zapatista leadership held three large international gatherings (Encuentros) indigenous people in the Chiapas highlands.
during 2007. Pockets of the Chiapas countryside remain tense, and occasional incidents bubble It’s a 15-minute walk north from Calle Real Sleeping
up over control of land. de Guadalupe or M$18 by taxi. BUDGET
It’s interesting to note that the Zapatistas have loudly denounced the concept of ecotourism. Camping Rancho San Nicolás ( % 678-0057;
They see the expansion of government tourism infrastructure as a nonmilitary means to make ARCO, TEMPLO & CENTRO CULTURAL Prolongación León s/n; camping per person M$50, r with
inroads into autonomous EZLN communities. EL CARMEN shared bathroom per person M$60, rustic cabana per person
The Arco de El Carmen, at the southern end of M$60, villa d M$350) Past cornfields and graz-
the Andador Turístico on Avenida Hidalgo, ing horses, this grassy spot on the edge
TABASCO & CHIAPAS

TABASCO & CHIAPAS

CERRO DE SAN CRISTÓBAL & CERRO DE the Spanish monarchy in those days. The dates from the late 17th century and was of town is a tranquil dose of el campo in
GUADALUPE interior is lavishly gilded, especially the once the city’s gateway. The ex-convent just the city. Bring a tent or trailer, or choose
Want to take in the best views in town? Well, ornate pulpit. east is a wonderful colonial building, with from a spectrum of options, including basic
you’ll have to work for them, because at this Around Santo Domingo and the neigh- a large peaceful garden. It’s now the Centro rooms and modern apartments with kitch-
altitude the stairs up these hills can be punish- boring Templo de La Caridad (built in 1712), Cultural El Carmen (Hermanos Domínguez s/n; admis- ens and fireplaces.
ing. Churches crown both lookouts, and the Chamulan women and bohemian types sion free; h9am-6pm Tue-Sun), hosting art and o Posada Ganesha (% 678-0212; www
Iglesia de Guadalupe becomes a hot spot for from around Mexico conduct a colorful photography exhibitions and the occasional .ganeshaposada.com; 28 de Agosto 23; s/d/tr/q with shared
religious devotees around the Día de la Virgen daily crafts market. The ex-monastery at- musical event. bathroom M$100/160/240/320;i) A new incense-
de Guadalupe (December 12). tached to Santo Domingo contains two infused posada (inn) trimmed in Indian
interesting exhibits: one is the weavers’ MUSEO DEL ÁMBAR DE CHIAPAS fabrics, it’s a friendly and vibrant place to
TEMPLO & EX-CONVENTO DE SANTO showroom of Sna Jolobil; the other is the Chiapas amber – fossilized pine resin, around rest your head, with yoga and papier-mâché
DOMINGO Centro Cultural de los Altos (% 678-1609; Calz 30 million years old – is known for its clarity classes and a guest kitchen. The freestanding
Located just north of the city center, the Lázaro Cárdenas s/n; admission M$33, free Sun & holi- and diverse colors. Most is mined around cabana is especially nice.
16th-century Templo de Santo Domingo (Avenida days; h10am-5pm Tue-Sun), with a reasonable Simojovel, north of San Cristóbal. The Museo Hostal Rincón de los Camellos (%967-116-0097;
20 de Noviembre; admission free; h6:30am-2pm & 4-8pm) Spanish-language museum on the history del Ámbar de Chiapas (Chiapas Amber Museum; www [email protected]; Calle Real de Guadalupe 110; dm
is San Cristóbal’s most beautiful church, of the San Cristóbal region. .museodelambar.com.mx; Plazuela de la Merced; admission M$60, s/d/tr/q with shared bathroom M$140/180/230/270,
especially when its façade catches the late- M$2; h10am-2pm & 4-7pm Tue-Sun) explains all with private bathroom M$200/220/270/330) ‘Camels’
afternoon sun. This baroque frontage, with NA BOLOM things amber (with information sheets in Corner’ is a clean, tranquil little spot run by
its outstanding filigree stucco work, was An atmospheric museum-research center, for English and other languages) and displays welcoming French folk. The brightly painted
added in the 17th century and includes the many years Na Bolom (%678-1418; www.nabolom and sells some exquisitely carved items and rooms are set round two patios, with a grassy
double-headed Hapsburg eagle, symbol of .org; Guerrero 33; view house only M$35, 1½hr tour in English insect-embedded pieces. little garden out back. A small purple kitchen
 236 C H I A PA S • • S a n C r i s t ó b a l d e L a s C a s a s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com C H I A PA S • • S a n C r i s t ó b a l d e l a s C a s a s 237

has free drinking water and coffee, and a shi- TOP END PLAZA 31 DE MARZO town is in Tuxtla Gutiérrez. To get there, take
sha (waterpipe) café clad in psychedelic fab- Casa Felipe Flores (%678-3996; www.felipeflores.com; JF Madre Tierra (%678-4297; Av Insurgentes 19; mains a Tuxtla-bound colectivo to Soriana (M$35,
rics is a pleasant low-key hangout. Flores 36; r incl full breakfast US$92-118;n) A dreamy M$30-65; h8am-10pm; v) A long-time travelers’ 1¼ hours) in Tuxtla’s eastern suburbs; from
colonial guesthouse decorated with outstand- favorite, Madre Tierra serves an eclectic and the stand at the colectivo stop, hire a taxi to
MIDRANGE ing Mexican and Guatemalan art, crafts and mainly vegetarian menu on a tranquil patio or the airport (M$150, 30 minutes). A number
Casa Margarita (%678-0957; [email protected]; furnishings, the 200-year-old building con- in an atmospheric dining room. Breakfasts are of tour agencies, including Viajes Chincultik
Calle Real de Guadalupe 34; s/d/tr/q M$350/450/550/650; i) tains five rooms with fireplace located off two superb, but perhaps sliding by on its reputa- and Otisa (%678-1933; www.otisatravel.com; Calle Real
This popular and well-run travelers’ haunt flowery courtyards. The lounge is a wonderful tion; other meals can be hit-or-miss. de Guadalupe 3), run shuttles to the Tuxtla airport
offers tastefully presented, impeccably clean place to sit by the fire, have a glass of wine and L’Eden (%678-0085; Hotel El Paraíso, 5 de Febrero 19; for M$150 to M$160 per person, but sched-
rooms with reading lights, and a pretty court- leaf through some of its terrific library. Room mains M$45-110; h7am-noon & 1-11pm) This quality uled service is generally at 9am only. Reserve
yard at the center of things. Rates can go down 5 is a cozy rooftop hideaway, with a private restaurant’s tempting European and Mexican in advance, especially if you want to leave at
by M$50 to M$100 in low season. There’s terrace looking out over tiled rooftops and menu includes fondue suiza (Swiss fondue), another time.
free internet, an in-house travel agency and a clusters of bougainvillea. sopa azteca (tortilla soup) and succulent meat Mexicana de Aviación (% 678-9309; Belisario
good restaurant. Parador San Juan de Dios (%/fax 678-1167; www dishes. There’s a lengthy wine list, too, includ- Domínguez 2B) sells direct flights from Tuxtla
Hotel El Paraíso (%678-0085; www.hotelposada .sanjuandios.com; Calz Roberta 16; ste M$1400-3700; p) A ing French and Spanish vintages. Gutiérrez to Mexico City, and connect-
paraiso.com; 5 de Febrero 19; s/d/tr M$450/650/850) stunning boutique hotel on the northern edge Pizzería El Punto (%678-7979; Comitán 13; pizzas ing flights to Villahermosa, Mérida and
Combining colonial style with a boutique- of town, the Parador San Juan de Dios offers M$60-100; h2-11pm Tue-Sun) Forget the card- Cancún.
hotel feel, El Paraíso has a bright, wood- voluminous and luxurious suites furnished board crap that passes for pizzas in some
pillared patio and courtyard garden, and loads with fascinating antique and modern art. The parts, these crispy pies are the best in town, BUS, COLECTIVO & VAN
of character. The high-ceilinged rooms are not hotel occupies the former Rancho Harvard, bar none. San Cristóbal has around a dozen bus termi-
huge, and some have limited natural light, but which dates from the 17th century and has nals, mostly on or just off the Pan-American
several are bi-level with an extra bed upstairs. lodged many anthropologists and archaeolo- Drinking & Entertainment Hwy. Most important for travelers is the
The in-house restaurant, L’Eden (opposite), Check out Café Museo Café (%678-7876; MA Flores 10; 1st-class OCC bus terminal (%678-0291; cnr Pan-
gists. It has beautiful gardens, vast lawns, and
is excellent. a top-class restaurant with an inventive, ex- h7am-10pm), DaDa Club (%631-3293; www.dadajazz American Hwy & Av Insurgentes), also used by ADO
Hotel Diego de Mazariegos (% 678-0833; .com; Av Insurgentes 16A; h1pm-midnight Mon-Sat) or and UNO 1st-class and deluxe buses, and
pensive Chiapas/Mediterranean menu using La Pera (%678-1209; MA Flores 23; h1-11pm Mon-Sat)
www.diegodemazariegos.com; 5 de Febrero 1; s/d/tr/q 2nd-class Transportes Dr Rodulfo Figueroa
herbs and vegetables grown in the on-site for live music.
M$730/780/850/920, ste M$1250-1500; p ) This (TRF) and Rápidos del Sur. Tickets for all
organic garden.
classy, long-established hotel occupies two of these lines are sold at Ticket Bus (%678-
18th-century mansions built around beau- Getting There & Away 8503; Calle Real de Guadalupe 5A; h7am-10pm) in the
tiful, wide courtyards. The 76 rooms are Eating On the corner of the Pan-American Hwy, city center.
large and decked out with traditional fab- CALLE REAL DE GUADALUPE AREA the Instituto Nacional de Migración (%678-0292; First-class AEXA (%678-6178) and 2nd-class
rics and fittings, but also have modern El Gato Gordo (%678-8313; Calle Real de Guadalupe Diagonal El Centenario 30) is 1.2km west of the OCC Ómnibus de Chiapas share a bus termi-
comforts, including cable TV. Some have 20; mains M$25-49; h 1-11pm Wed-Mon; v ) El bus terminal. nal on the south side of the highway; and
fireplaces (M$15 per load of wood), and Gato Gordo attracts hungry travelers in From Tuxtla Gutiérrez you’ll most likely various Suburban-type vans and colectivo
droves for its excellent, well-prepared food
TABASCO & CHIAPAS

travel here on the fast new toll highway (M$33

TABASCO & CHIAPAS

suites have spa tubs. The hotel has a lively services have depots on the highway in the
tequila-and-mariachi-theme bar. at terrific prices. There’s an unbeatable set for cars). See p243 for a warning about Hwy same area. Daily departures are listed in the
Hotel Casavieja (%/fax 678-6868; www.casavieja lunch (M$28), and excellent pastas, crêpes, 199 from San Cristóbal to Palenque. table (below).
.com.mx; MA Flores 27; s/d/tr M$800/850/900, ste M$950- Mexican snacks and meat dishes, plus a great For Guatemala, most agencies offer daily
1000; pi) Set in a beautifully renovated choice of drinks. AIR van service to Quetzaltenango (M$260,
18th-century house with lots of wooden pil- TierrAdentro (%674-6766; www.tierradentro.org.mx; San Cristóbal’s airport, about 15km from eight hours), Panajachel (M$260, 10 hours),
lars, balustrades and old-world atmosphere, Calle Real de Guadalupe 24; menús M$30-70; h8am-11pm) town on the Palenque road, has no regular Antigua (M$360, 12 hours) and Flores (via
Casavieja also boasts modern comforts. The A popular gathering center for political pro- passenger flights; the main airport serving Palenque, M$400).
large comfortable rooms, arranged around gressives and coffee-swigging, laptop-toting
flowery courtyards, all have two double beds, locals (not that they’re mutually exclusive),
heater, cable TV and phone. this large indoor courtyard restaurant and BUS SERVICES FROM SAN CRISTÓBAL DE LAS CASAS
Na Bolom (%678-1418; www.nabolom.org; Guerrero café is a comfortable place to while away the Destination Fare ($M) Duration (hr) Departures
33; s/d/tr/q incl breakfast M$660/880/1045/1100, ste M$1210; hours. It’s run by Zapatista supporters, who
hold frequent cultural events and conferences Campeche 314 11 1 OCC bus
pi) This famous museum/research in- Cancún 606-724 16-18 4 OCC buses
stitute (p234), about 1km from the plaza, on local issues. A simple menú compa (fixed-
Ciudad Cuauhtémoc
has 16 stylish guestrooms, all loaded with price meal named for the Zapatistas; M$30), (Guatemalan border) 100 3½ 4 OCC buses
character and all but one with log fires. with rice and beans and handmade tortillas, Mérida 448 13 1 OCC bus
Meals are served in the house’s stately din- is hearty and delicious. Also inside are a good Palenque 75-134 5 9 OCC buses & 3 AEXA buses
ing room. Room rates include a house tour (Spanish-only) bookstore and an indigenous Villahermosa 194 7-8 2 OCC buses
and wireless internet. women’s weaving co-op.
 238 C H I A PA S • • A r o u n d S a n C r i s t ó b a l lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C H I A PA S • • Pa l e n q u e 239

Palenque
CAR On Sunday the weekly market is held, when

ayo
ero

D2

D2
D3
C3

C3
C3

A3
B3

B1
F2
0.2 miles
For car rental, Optima (%674-5409; optimacar1

5 de Febr

5 de M
people from the hills stream into the village to

ADO Bus Terminal...................15

AEXA & Cardesa Bus Terminal..16
Autotransporte Chamoán........ 17

Montebello...........................18
Taxi Stands...............................19
Transportes Chambalú.............20
Transportes Palenque.............. 21
Vans to Ocosingo....................22
Vans to Ocosingo....................23

Benemérito de las Américas..24

@hotmail.com; Mazariegos 39) has VW Beetles for shop, trade and visit the main church. Standing

300 m
o
Guerrer
M$400/2400 per day/week. beside the main plaza, Chamula’s main church,

Vans to Reforma Agraria &

Línea Comitán Lagos de
the Templo de San Juan, is a ghostly white, with

F
Jiménez
Getting Around a vividly painted arch of green and blue. A
Combis go up Cresencio Rosas from the Pan- sign tells visitors to obtain tickets (M$15) at a

El Parque
ndenci

TRANSPORT
Jiménez

5
Indepe

19
American Hwy to the city center. Taxis cost the tourist office (h9am-6pm), beside the plaza,

bre

ez
M$18 within the city. before entering the church. Inside the dark-

Octu

Domíngu
a
ndenci
Friendly Los Pingüinos (%678-0202; www.bike ened sanctuary, hundreds of flickering candles, Indepe

e
12 d
mexico.com/pinguinos; Ecuador 4B; bike hire per 4/6/9hr M$100/ clouds of incense and worshippers kneeling

Hotel Regional...........................8 D2

La Selva...................................11 A3
Hotel Xibalba..............................9 B2
Belisario

Posada Águila Real...................10 E3

Restaurant Las Tinajas..............12 E3

Restaurant Las Tinajas..............13 E3

El Tapanco................................14 E2
130/150;hphone 8am-8pm, office 10am-2:30pm & 3:30-7pm with their faces to the pine-needle-carpeted

13
Mon-Sat) rents good-quality mountain bikes. floor make a powerful impression. Abasolo

Croozy Scooters (%631-4329; www.prodigyweb Abasolo

18 de Marzo
E

12
.net.mx/croozyscooters; Belisario Domínguez 7; scooter hire San Lorenzo Zinacantán

rez
Velasco Suá

ENTERTAINMENT
per 1/5/9/24hr M$75/200/250/350; h9am-7pm), under pop 3700 / elev 2558m

20 de Noviembre
2
Reforma

10
new ownership, rents well-maintained 80cc The orderly village of San Lorenzo Zinacantán,

5 de Mayo

Corregidora
Hidalgo
Bravo

14

SLEEPING
0
0
about 11km northwest of San Cristóbal, is the

Juárez
scooters.

EATING
Aldama
main village of the Zinacantán municipality

ez
AROUND SAN CRISTÓBAL
Aldama
(population 45,000). Zinacantán people, like

Belisario Domíngu

8
3

D2

D1
D3

D3
Chamulans, are Tzotzil.

E2

F2

E2
The inhabitants of the beautiful Chiapas

Banamex....................................1
Bancomer ................................. 2
Clínica Palenque.........................3
Lavandería Hotel Kashlan...........4
Post Office.................................5
Servicios Turísticos de Palenque..6
Tourist Information Office..........7
highlands are descended from the ancient A small market is held on Sunday until
Maya and maintain some unique customs, noon, and during fiesta times. The huge

20
D

21
Allende
costumes and beliefs. It’s particularly impor- central Iglesia de San Lorenzo (admission M$20) was Allende
tant to be respectful of local customs in this rebuilt following a fire in 1975. Photography Allende (3rd Calle Pte Sur)

4
is banned in the church and churchyard.

INFORMATION
17
part of Mexico.
While walking or riding by horse or bicy- The small thatched-roof Museo Jsotz’ Levetik

6
cle by day along the main roads to San Juan (admission by donation; h9am-5pm), three blocks 1a Poniente

below the central basketball court, covers

Market
Chamula and San Lorenzo Zinacantán should
not be risky, it’s not wise to wander into un- local culture and has some fine textiles and
frequented areas or down isolated tracks. musical instruments.

23
Transportation to most villages goes from

C
Sur
points around the Mercado Municipal in 4a Poniente
PALENQUE
San Cristóbal. Combis to San Juan Chamula

16
%916 / pop 37,000 / elev 80m
TABASCO & CHIAPAS

TABASCO & CHIAPAS

La Cañada
(M$8) leave from Calle Honduras frequently Deservedly one of the top destinations of

22
from 4am to about 6pm; for Zinacantán, Chiapas, the soaring jungle-swathed temples of 5a Poniente Sur

combis (M$10) and colectivos (M$12) go at Palenque are a national treasure and one of the

15
least hourly from 5am to 7pm, from a yard best examples of Maya architecture in Mexico.
off Robledo. Modern Palenque town, a few kilometers to

árez
the east, is a sweaty, humdrum place without

Juárez
Velasco Su

9
Merle Green
San Juan Chamula much appeal except as a jumping-off point

To Misol-Ha (20km); Agua Azul (64km);

Ocosingo (120km); Bonampak (152km);
Frontera Corozal (172km);
San Cristóbal de
Las Casas (218km)
B Cárdenas
3a Poniente
pop 3000 / elev 2200m for the ruins. Many prefer to base themselves
The Chamulans are a fiercely independent at one of the forest hideouts along the road
Tzotzil group, about 80,000 strong. Their
18
between the town and the ruins, including the

2a Norte

Statue
Maya
Head
main village, San Juan Chamula, is 10km funky travelers’ hangout of El Panchán.
northwest of San Cristóbal.

199
The name Palenque (Palisade) is Spanish

MEX
ente
Outsiders can visit San Juan Chamula, but

To La Aldea del Halach-Huinic (2.5km);

4a Poni
and has no relation to the city’s ancient name,

11

El Panchán (4.5km); La Palapa (5km);

Glorieta de la
Cabeza Maya
a big sign at the entrance to the village strictly which may have been Lakamha (Big Water).
Villahermosa (141km);
de Migración (5.5km);
To Instituto Nacional

Chan-Kah Resort Village (3km);

Campeche (368km)

forbids photography in the village church or

24
Palenque was first occupied around 100 BC,
PALENQUE

Hotel Villas Kin-Ha (2.5km);

at rituals. Do not ignore these restrictions; and flourished from around AD 630 to 740.

Palenque Ruins (7.5km)

the community takes them very seriously.
A

The city rose to prominence under the ruler

Nearby, around the shell of an older church, Pakal, who reigned from AD 615–83.
199
MEX

is the village graveyard, with black crosses for Pakal’s son Kan B’alam II (684–702), who
people who died old, white for the young and is represented in hieroglyphics by the jag-
2

3
1

4
blue for others. uar and the serpent (and also called Jaguar
 240 C H I A PA S • • Pa l e n q u e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C H I A PA S • • Pa l e n q u e 241

Serpent II), continued Palenque’s expansion Servicios Turísticos de Palenque (%345-1340; Diagonally opposite the Templo de las shaped structures surround a plaza south-
and artistic development. He presided over www.stpalenque.com; cnr Av Juárez & 5 de Mayo) A tour Inscripciones is El Palacio (The Palace), a east of the Templo de las Inscripciones. The
the construction of the Grupo de las Cruces agency. large structure divided into four main court- Templo del Sol (Temple of the Sun), on the
temples, placing sizable narrative stone stelae Tourist information office (cnr Av Juárez & Abasolo; yards, with a maze of corridors and rooms. west side of the plaza, has the best-preserved
within each. h9am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) Soon after the death of his father, Pakal’s son roofcomb at Palenque. Steep steps climb to
During Kan B’alam II’s reign, Palenque ex- Kan B’alam II (684-702) started designing the Templo de la Cruz (Temple of the Cross),
tended its zone of control to Río Usumacinta, Palenque Ruins the temples of the Grupo de las Cruces (Group the largest and most elegantly proportioned
but was challenged by the rival Maya city Ancient Palenque (admission M$45, 2hr guided tour of the Crosses). All three main pyramid- in this group.
of Toniná, 65km south. Kan B’alam’s M$650-700; h8am-5pm, last entry 4:30pm) stands at
brother and successor, K’an Joy Chitam II the precise point where the first hills rise
(Precious Peccary), was captured by forces
PALENQUE RUINS 0
0
300 m
0.2 miles
out of the Gulf Coast plain, and the dense
from Toniná in 711, and probably executed jungle covering these hills forms an evoca- A B C D
there. Palenque enjoyed a resurgence be- tive backdrop to Palenque’s exquisite Maya INFORMATION Templo de la Cruz Foliada................11 C4 Templo XXII.....................................24 B5
tween 722 and 736 under Ahkal Mo’ Nahb’ architecture. Hundreds of ruined buildings Guías e Interpretes Mayas..................1 A4 Templo de las Inscripciones..............12 B4 Templo XXIV....................................25 B4
Official Guide Kiosk...........................2 A4 Templo del Conde............................13 B3 Templo XXV.....................................26 A5
III (Turtle Macaw Lake), who added many are spread over 15 sq km, but only a fairly 1 Ticket Office......................................3 A3 Templo del Jaguar............................14 B5 Tomb of Alberto Ruz Lhuillier...........27 B4
substantial buildings. compact central area has been excavated. Toilets................................................4 C3 Templo del Sol.................................15 B4 Tower..............................................28 B4
Templo X..........................................16 B3
The ruins and surrounding forests form a SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Templo XI........................................17 B4 SHOPPING
Ball Court...........................................5 B3 Templo XIII......................................18 B4 Souvenir Stalls..................................29 A3
Orientation national park, the Parque Nacional Palenque, El Palacio............................................6 B4 Templo XIV......................................19 B4
Hwy 199 meets Palenque’s main street, for which you must pay a separate M$20 Entrance.............................................7 A3 Templo XIX......................................20 B5
Museo de Sitio...................................8 D2 Templo XVII.....................................21 C5
Avenida Juárez, at the Glorieta de la Cabeza admission fee at Km 4.5 on the road to Templo de la Calavera....................... 9 A4 Templo XX.......................................22 B5
Maya, an intersection with a large statue of a the ruins. Templo de la Cruz............................10 C4 Templo XXI......................................23 B5

Maya chieftain’s head, at the west end of the Palenque’s Museo de Sitio (Site Museum; %348- 8

town. From here Avenida Juárez heads 1km 9331; Carretera Palenque-Ruinas Km 7; admission free;
east to the central square, El Parque. The main h9am-4:30pm Tue-Sun) is worth a wander, dis- 2
bus terminals are on Avenida Juárez just east playing finds from the site and interpreting, in To Mayabell (400m);
El Panchán (2km);
of the Maya head statue. English and Spanish, Palenque’s history. Palenque (7km)

A few hundred meters south from the Transportes Chambalú (%345-2849; Allende s/n) Waterfalls
Maya head statue, the paved road to the and Transportes Palenque (%345-2430; cnr Allende &

i
con
20 de Noviembre) run combis from Palenque town

s
Palenque ruins, 7.5km away, diverges west

Arroyo Berna
Puente de los
Murciélagos Grupo de los
off Hwy 199. This road passes the Museo de to the ruins about every 15 minutes from 6am Murciélagos
Sitio (Site Museum) after about 6.5km, then to 7pm daily (M$10 each way). They will Grupo 1 Grupo 2
Baño de
winds about 1km further to the main entrance pick you up or drop you anywhere along the La Reina

of the ruins. town-to-ruins road. 3 13 Grupo

Accommodations are scattered around Note that the mushrooms sold by locals Norte
Waterfalls
TABASCO & CHIAPAS

TABASCO & CHIAPAS

the central part of town and along the road along the road to the ruins from about 16
29 4
to the ruins. The commercial heart of town, May to November are of the hallucinogenic 5

where you’ll hardly ever see another tour- variety. 3 7 um

ol
1 2
Arroyo Ot
ist, is north of the center along Avenida 17 Grupo C

Velasco Suárez. EXPLORING THE SITE 28

6
27
As you enter the site, a line of temples rises

rciélagos
Information in front of the jungle on your right, culmi- 9

nating about 100m ahead at the Templo de las 4 18

There are over a dozen cybercafés; rates cost

Arroyo Mu
12
M$50 to M$80 per hour. Inscripciones (Temple of the Inscriptions), the 19
tallest and most stately of Palenque’s build- 15
Banamex (Av Juárez 62; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri) Has an 10
ings. From the top, interior stairs lead down 25
ATM. Grupo de las Cruces
into the tomb of Pakal (closed indefinitely 11
Clínica Palenque (%345-0273; Av Velasco Suárez 33; to avoid further damage from the humidity 26 14 24
23
h7am-11pm) Dr Alfonso Martínez speaks English. exuded by visitors). Pakal’s jewel-bedecked 21
22 Acrópolis Sur
Lavandería Hotel Kashlan (5 de Mayo 105; per 1-3kg skeleton and jade mosaic death mask were
M$50) moved from the tomb to Mexico City, and the
20
Maya Exploration Center (www.mayaexploration.org) tomb was re-created in the Museo Nacional 5
Provides lectures, slide shows and documentary films on de Antropología (from where the priceless
weekends in the main tourism seasons. death mask was stolen in 1985), but the
Post office (Independencia s/n; h9am-6pm Mon-Fri, carved stone sarcophagus lid remains at the
Ed Barnhart 2000
9am-1pm Sat) Museo de Sitio.
 242 C H I A PA S • • Pa l e n q u e Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com C H I A PA S • • B o n a m p a k & Ya x c h i l á n 243

South of the Grupo de las Cruces is the OUTSIDE TOWN

Acrópolis Sur, where archaeologists have recov- Margarita & Ed Cabañas (%348-4205; El Panchán; caba- BUS SERVICES FROM PALENQUE
ered some terrific finds in recent excavations. nas r M$170, r with fan M$250-300, r with air-con M$350, Destination Fare ($M) Duration (hr) Departures
It appears to have been constructed as an ex- tr/q with air-con M$500; pna) Teeming with
local information, Margarita has welcomed Campeche 226-230 4½-5½ 4 ADO buses
tension of the Grupo de las Cruces, with both Cancún 498-584 13-14 5 ADO buses
groups set around what was probably a single travelers to her exceptionally homey place Mérida 316-346 8 4 ADO buses
long, open space. in the jungle for more than 10 years. Bright, San Cristóbal de Las Casas 75-142 5¼ 10 ADO buses & 5 AEXA buses
clean and cheerful rooms have good mosquito Villahermosa 50-98 2 12 ADO buses & 11 AEXA buses
Sleeping netting, and the more rustic screened cabanas
The first choice to make is whether you want are well kept, too.
to stay in or out of Palenque town. Most out- Hotel Villas Kin-Ha (%345-0533; www.villaskinha excellent homestyle food, enough to keep you Getting Around
of-town places, including El Panchán (www.elpan .com; Carretera Palenque-Ruinas Km 2.7; r M$660-800, ste (and possibly another person) fueled up for Taxis wait at the northeast corner of El Parque
chan.com; Carretera Palenque-Ruinas Km 4.5), are along M$1320; pas) Most accommodations are hours. Note: there is another branch on the and at the ADO bus terminal; they charge
the road to the ruins. palm-thatched and wood-beamed, and all opposite side of the intersection. M$40 to El Panchán or Mayabell, and M$50
have air-con. The grounds hold two good La Selva (%345-0363; Hwy 199; mains M$50-160; to the ruins.
IN TOWN pools, an open-sided palapa (thatched-roof h11:30am-11:30pm) Palenque’s most upscale
Hotel Regional (%/fax 345-0183; www.regionalpalenque shelter) restaurant and a theater. restaurant serves up well-prepared steaks, BONAMPAK & YAXCHILÁN
.com; Av Juárez 119; s/d/tr/q with fan M$180/230/320/420, Chan-Kah Resort Village (% 345-1100; www seafood, salads and antojitos (‘little whims,’ The ancient Maya cities of Bonampak and
tr/q with air-con M$400/500; a) Something slightly .chan-kah.com.mx; Carretera Palenque-Ruinas Km 3; r/ste corn- and tortilla-based snacks) under an Yaxchilán, southeast of Palenque, are easily
different from the run of the Avenida Juárez US$120/330;pas) Swimmers will go woozy enormous palapa roof. accessible thanks to the Carretera Fronteriza,
mill: bright paintwork and extremely bright contemplating the Chan-Kah’s stupendous Don Mucho’s (%341-8209; El Panchán; mains M$55- a good paved road running parallel to the
murals enliven two floors of rooms set around 70m stone-lined swimming pool in lush 110) The hot spot of El Panchán, popular Don Mexico–Guatemala border, all the way from
a courtyard with a turtle pond. jungle gardens. A quality resort on the road Mucho’s provides great-value meals in a Palenque to the Parque Nacional Lagunas de
Posada Águila Real (% 345-0004; Av 20 de to the ruins, 3km from town, it has hand- jungly setting, with a candlelit atmosphere Montebello (Lagos de Montebello), around
Noviembre s/n; s/d M$350/400, tr M$450-500;ai) some, well-spaced, wood-and-stone cottages at night. the fringe of the Selva Lacandona. Bonampak,
Seventeen spotless, well-kept, blue-and-yellow with generous bathrooms, ceiling fans, terrace famous for its frescoes, is 148km by road from
rooms are arranged on three floors based and air-con. Entertainment Palenque; the bigger and more important
around an open-air patio. There’s a small Palenque doesn’t have much of a nightlife Yaxchilán, with a peerless jungle setting beside
café-restaurant, too. Eating scene. But you can try El Tapanco (%345-0415; the broad and swift Río Usumacinta, is 173km
Hotel Xibalba (%345-0411; www.hotelxibalba.com; Cafetería Motiepa (Carretera Palenque-Ruinas Km 6; snacks Av Juárez 65C) or La Palapa (Carretera Palenque-Ruinas Km by road, then about 22km by boat.
Merle Green 9; r M$550, tr/q M$600/700; pai ) M$20-40; h8am-3pm) Next to the Museo de Sitio 5;huntil 4am) for dancing and live music.
Preened to perfection by a loving owner, near the Palenque ruins, this is a good stop for Tours
the Xibalba enjoys a tranquil location in a snack or drink. Getting There & Away While independent travel is certainly possible
two buildings (one in an imitation of the Restaurant Las Tinajas (%345-4970; cnr 20 de Palenque’s airport, 3km north of town along in this region, most choose to take an organ-
TABASCO & CHIAPAS

TABASCO & CHIAPAS

ancient Maya corbel roof style, the other Noviembre & Abasolo; mains M$50-100; h7am-11pm) It Hwy 199, has been closed to regular passenger ized tour from Palenque (p240).
with a full-size replica of the lid from doesn’t take long to figure out why this place flights for several years.
Pakal’s sarcophagus). is always busy. It slings enormous portions of Highway holdups were once weekly oc- Getting There & Away
currences on Hwy 199 between Ocosingo From Palenque, Autotransporte Chamoán
and Palenque, but an increased military and runs vans to Frontera Corozal (M$60, 2½
THE SELVA LACONDONA police presence has made this route pretty to three hours, 13 times daily), and vans to
The Selva Lacandona (Lacandon Jungle), in eastern Chiapas, occupies just one quarter of 1% of safe now. Still, most people consider daytime Benemérito de las Américas (M$60, 3½ hours,
Mexico. Yet it contains more than 4300 plant species, 450 types of butterfly, at least 340 birds travel to be best. every 40 minutes from 4am to 5:30pm) depart
and 163 mammals. Among these are such emblematic creatures as the jaguar, red macaw, white The main ADO bus terminal (%345-1344; Av Juárez from a terminus on Hwy 199 just south of the
turtle, tapir and harpy eagle. s/n) has deluxe and 1st-class services; it’s also Maya head statue.
This great fund of natural resources and genetic diversity is the southwest end of the Selva used by OCC (1st-class) and TRF (2nd-class) Línea Comitán Lagos de Montebello (%916-345-
Maya, a 30,000-sq-km corridor of tropical rainforest stretching from Chiapas across northern bus lines. The AEXA bus terminal (%345-2630; Av 1260; Av Velasco Suárez s/n), two blocks west of the
Guatemala into Belize and the southern Yucatán. But the Selva Lacandona is shrinking fast, Juárez 159), with 1st-class buses, and Cardesa Palenque market, runs vans to Benemérito
under pressure from ranchers, loggers, oil prospectors and farmers desperate for land. From (2nd class), is located 1½ blocks east, with (M$60, 10 times daily from 4am to 2:45pm),
around 15,000 sq km in the 1950s, an estimated 3000 to 4500 sq km of jungle remains today. an on-site internet café. Vans to Ocosingo with the first five services (4am, 5:30am,
Most of what’s left is in the Reserva de la Biósfera Montes Azules and the neighboring Reserva wait on 4a Poniente Sur and 5a Poniente Sur, 7:15am, 8:45am and 10:15am) continuing
de la Biósfera Lacan-tun. near the bus terminals, and leave when full. round the Carretera Fronteriza to the Lagos de
The Mexican government deeded a large section of the land to a small number of Lacandón Transportes Palenque (%345-2430; cnr Allende & 20 de Montebello (M$160, seven hours to Tziscao)
families in the 1970s, creating tensions with other indigenous communities whose claims were Noviembre) runs vans to Tenosique. and Comitán (M$170, eight hours).
put aside. Land within the region remains incredibly contested. For a sample of daily departures, see the All these services stop at San Javier
table (above). (M$45, two hours), the turnoff for Lacanjá
 244 C H I A PA S • • B o n a m p a k & Ya x c h i l á n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com C H I A PA S • • B o n a m p a k & Ya x c h i l á n 245

Chansayab and Bonampak, 140km from Visitors to Bonampak can stay in the
Palenque; and at Crucero Corozal (M$50, neighboring village of Frontera Corozál. EXPLORE MORE OF CHIAPAS
2½ hours), the intersection for Frontera Escudo Jaguar (%502-5353-5637; http://mx.geocities This short chapter only touches the surface. For more information, check out our comprehensive
Corozal. .com/hotel_escudojaguar; camping per person M$70, coverage in Mexico or download a pdf copy at www.shop.lonelyplanet.com. Or better yet, leave
There are no gas stations on the Carretera cabana with shared bathroom d/tr M$200/258, cabana with the guidebook behind and try out some of these DIY adventures:
Fronteriza, but plenty of entrepreneurial lo- 1/2/3 d beds M$380/572/760; p) has solidly built,
Agua Azul & Misol-Ha These spectacular water attractions – the thundering cascades of
cals sell reasonably priced gasoline from large pink, thatched cabanas, which are all kept
Agua Azul and the 35m jungle waterfall of Misol-Ha (www.misol-ha.com) – are both short
plastic containers. spotless and come equipped with fans and
detours off the Ocosingo–Palenque road.
mosquito nets.
Bonampak Amatenango del Valle The women of this Tzeltal village by the Pan-American Hwy, 37km
The site of Bonampak (admission M$37; h8am- GETTING THERE & AWAY southeast of San Cristóbal, are renowned potters.
4:45pm) spreads over 2.4 sq km, but all the main Bonampak is 12km from San Javier on the Chiapa de Corzo Set 12km east of Tuxtla Gutiérrez on the way to San Cristóbal, Chiapa de
ruins stand around the rectangular Gran Plaza. Carretera Fronteriza. The first 3km, to the Corzo is a small and attractive colonial town with an easygoing, provincial air. Set on the
Never a major city, Bonampak spent most of Lacanjá Chansayab turnoff, is paved, and north bank of the broad Río Grijalva, it’s the main starting point for trips into the Cañón del
the Classic period under Yaxchilán’s sphere the rest is good gravel/dirt road through the Sumidero.
of influence. The most impressive surviving forest. Taxis will take you from San Javier Grutas de San Cristóbal The entrance to this long cavern is among pine woods 9km south-
monuments were built under Chan Muwan II, or the Lacanjá turnoff to the ruins and back east of San Cristóbal, a five-minute walk south of the Pan-American Hwy.
a nephew of the Yaxchilán’s Itzamnaaj B’alam for M$70 per person, including waiting time.
II, who acceded to Bonampak’s throne in AD Private vehicles cannot pass the Monumento Lacanjá Chansayab The largest Lacandón Maya village is 12km from Bonampak. Its fam-
776. The 6m-high Stela 1 in the Gran Plaza Natural Bonampak entrance, 1km past the ily compounds are scattered around a wide area, many of them with creeks or even the Río
depicts Chan Muwan holding a ceremonial Lacanjá turnoff, but you can rent bicycles Lacanjá flowing past their grassy grounds. The website www.ecochiapas.com/lacanja (in
staff at the height of his reign. He also features there for M$60 for three hours, or take a combi Spanish) offers information on visiting the region.
in Stela 2 and Stela 3 on the Acrópolis, which to the ruins for M$70 round-trip. Lagos de Montebello The temperate pine and oak forest along the Guatemalan border east
rises from the south end of the plaza. of Chinkultic is dotted with over 50 small lakes of varied hues. The nearby Chinkultic ruins
However, it’s the vivid frescoes inside the Yaxchilán add to the mystery.
modest-looking Templo de las Pinturas (Edificio Jungle-shrouded Yaxchilán (admission M$45; h8am- Laguna Miramar Ringed by rainforest 140km southeast of Ocosingo in the Reserva de la
1) that have given Bonampak its fame – and 4:30pm, last entry 3:30pm) has a terrific setting above Biósfera Montes Azules, this is one of Mexico’s most remote and exquisite lakes.
its name, which means ‘Painted Walls’ in a horseshoe loop in the Río Usumacinta.
Yucatecan Maya. The control this location gave it over river Ocosingo A respite from both the steamy lowland jungle and the chilly highlands, the
The Bonampak site abuts the Reserva de la commerce, and a series of successful alli- bustling regional market town of Ocosingo sits in a gorgeous and broad temperate valley
Biósfera Montes Azules, and is rich in wildlife. ances and conquests, made Yaxchilán one of midway between San Cristóbal and Palenque. The impressive Maya ruins of Toniná are just a
Drinks and snacks are sold at the entrance the most important Classic Maya cities in few kilometers away.
to the Monumento Natural Bonampak pro- the Usumacinta region. Archaeologically, Reserva de la Biósfera El Triunfo The luxuriant cloud forests high in the remote Sierra Madre
tected zone, 8km before the ruins, and by the Yaxchilán is famed for its ornamented façades de Chiapas are a bird-lover’s paradise.
TABASCO & CHIAPAS

TABASCO & CHIAPAS

archaeological site entrance. and roofcombs, and its impressive stone Reserva de la Biósfera La Encrucijada This large biosphere reserve protects a 1448-sq-km
strip of coastal lagoons, sand bars and wetlands.
INDIGENOUS PEOPLES OF CHIAPAS Sima de Las Cotorras This is a dramatic sinkhole (%968-689-0289; simacotorras@hotmail
.com) punching 160m wide and 140m deep into the earth. It’s about 1½ hours from Tuxtla
Of the 4.2 million people of Chiapas, approximately 1.25 million are indigenous, with language
Gutiérrez.
being the key ethnic identifier. Each of the eight principal groups has its own language, beliefs
and customs. Travelers to the area around San Cristóbal are most likely to encounter the Tzotziles
and the Tzeltales. Their traditional religious life is nominally Catholic, but integrates pre-Hispanic lintels carved with conquest and ceremonial soon reach the mazy passages of El Laberinto
elements. Most people live in the hills outside the villages, which are primarily market and cer- scenes. A flashlight (torch) is helpful for ex- (Edificio 19), built between 742–52, during
emonial centers. ploring some parts of the site. the interregnum between Itzamnaaj B’alam
Tzotzil and Tzeltal clothing is among the most varied, colorful and elaborately worked in Yaxchilán peaked in power and splendor II and Pájaro Jaguar IV. Dozens of bats shel-
Mexico. It not only identifies wearers’ villages but also carries on ancient Maya traditions. Many between AD 681 and 800 under the rulers ter under the structure’s roof today. From this
of the seemingly abstract designs on these costumes are, in fact, stylized snakes, frogs, butterflies, Itzamnaaj B’alam II (Shield Jaguar II, 681– complicated two-level building you emerge at
birds, saints and other beings. 742), Pájaro Jaguar IV (Bird Jaguar IV, the northwest end of the extensive Gran Plaza.
The Lacandones dwelt deep in the Selva Lacandona and largely avoided contact with the 752–68) and Itzamnaaj B’alam III (Shield Though it’s hard to imagine anyone here
outside world until the 1950s. They now number 800 or so and live in three main settlements in Jaguar III, 769–800). The city was abandoned ever wanting to be hotter than they already
that same region, with low-key tourism being one of their major means of support. Lacandones around 810. were, Edificio 17 was apparently a sweat house.
are readily recognizable in their white tunics and long black hair cut in a fringe. Most Lacandones As you walk toward the ruins, a signed path About halfway along the plaza, Stela 1, flanked
have now abandoned their traditional animist religion in favor of Presbyterian or evangelical to the right leads up to the Pequeña Acrópolis, by weathered sculptures of a crocodile and a
forms of Christianity. a group of ruins on a small hilltop – you can jaguar, shows Pájaro Jaguar IV in a ceremony
visit this later. Staying on the main path, you that took place in 761. Edificio 20, from the time
 © Lonely Planet Publications
246 C H I A PA S • • B o n a m p a k & Ya x c h i l á n lonelyplanet.com 247

of Itzamnaaj B’alam III, was the last signifi- Visitors can stay in the village of Lacanjá
cant structure built at Yaxchilán; its lintels are Chansayab. At Campamento Río Lacanjá (www
now in Mexico City. Stela 11, at the northeast .ecochiapas.com/lacanja; bunk M$120, d M$290, Ya’ax Can
corner of the Gran Plaza, was originally found r/tr/q M$480/580/650; p), 2km south of the central
in front of Edificio 40. The bigger of the two intersection, rustic semi-open-air wood-frame
figures visible on it is Pájaro Jaguar IV. cabanas, with mosquito nets, stand close to
An imposing stairway climbs from Stela the jungle-shrouded Río Lacanjá. A separate
1 to Edificio 33, the best-preserved temple at group of large rooms with fan, called Cabañas
Yaxchilán, with about half of its roofcomb Ya’ax Can, have two solid wooden double
intact. The final step in front of the building beds, tiled floors and hot-water bathroom.
is carved with ball-game scenes, and splendid
relief carvings embellish the undersides of the GETTING THERE & AWAY
lintels. Inside is a statue of Pájaro Jaguar IV, River lanchas (motorboats) take 40 minutes
minus his head, which he lost to treasure- running downstream from Frontera Corozal
seeking 19th-century timber cutters. and one hour to return. Lancha outfits, with
From the clearing behind Edificio 33, a desks in a thatched-roof building near the
path leads into the trees. About 20m along Frontera Corozal embarcadero, all charge
this, fork left uphill; go left at another fork the same price for trips (return journey with
after about 80m, and in some 10 minutes, 2½ hours at the ruins for three/four/seven/
mostly going uphill, you’ll reach three build- 10 people M$650/780/950/1300). Lanchas
ings on a hilltop: Edificio 39, Edificio 40 and normally depart frequently until 1:30pm
Edificio 41. Climb to the top of Edificio 41 for or so, and it’s sometimes possible to hook
great views across the top of the jungle to the up with other travelers or a tour group to
distant mountains of Guatemala. share costs.
TABASCO & CHIAPAS

TABASCO & CHIAPAS

© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes
only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to
everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying
the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’
 © Lonely Planet Publications
TDHI RU EMCBT OT RA YB 246 247

TDHI RU EMCBT OT RA YB
Directory
BOOK ACCOMMODATIONS ONLINE
CONTENTS
For more accommodations reviews and rec-
Accommodations 247
ommendations by Lonely Planet authors,
Activities 250
check out the online booking service at
Business Hours 250
www.lonelyplanet.com. You’ll find the true,
Children 250
insider lowdown on the best places to stay.
Climate Charts 251
Reviews are thorough and independent.
Courses 251
Best of all, you can book online.
Customs 251
Dangers & Annoyances 252
Discount Cards 253 running – though a bit windswept – by the
Embassies & Consulates 253 time we passed through. The other big storm
Festivals & Events 253 of the year (see boxed text, p228) buried 80%
Food 254 of Tabasco under water, and caused several
Gay & Lesbian Travelers 255 landslides in Chiapas. In order to get the most
Holidays 255 up-to-date info, we did a phone update of our
Insurance 255 Tabasco material after the flooding subsided.
Internet Access 255 The good news is that the Yucatán Peninsula
Legal Matters 256 has finally recovered (for the most part) from
Maps 256 2005’s Hurricane Wilma (see boxed text, p59),
Money 257 which wiped out many Caribbean coastal des-
Photography & Video 258 tinations, including Cancún, Isla Cozumel,
Post 258 Isla Holbox, Puerto Morelos and, to a lesser
Shopping 259 extent, Playa del Carmen.
Solo Travelers 260 Accommodations in the Yucatán range
Telephone & Fax 260 from hammocks and cabanas to hotels of every
Time 262 imaginable standard to world-class luxury
Toilets 262 resorts. This book divides accommodations
Tourist Information 262 into three price ranges: budget (where a typi-
Travelers with Disabilities 262 cal room for two people costs under M$400),
Visas 262 midrange (M$400 to M$900) and top end
Women Travelers 264 (above M$900).
Work 265 Budget accommodations include camping
grounds, hammocks, palm-thatched cabanas,
ACCOMMODATIONS backpacker hostels, guesthouses and econom-
Two storms in 2007 hit the region hard, dev- ical hotels. Recommended accommodations
astating tourist infrastructure in Tabasco, will be without frills but generally clean. Hotel
parts of Chiapas and southern Quintana rooms, even in the budget range, usually have
Roo. Hurricane Dean (see boxed text, p133) a private bathroom containing hot shower,
wiped out the southern Quintana Roo town toilet and washbasin. (In this book rooms
of Mahahual, destroying the port and lev- are assumed to have private bathroom unless
eling most hotels. We were on the ground otherwise stated.)
just weeks after the disaster and were unable Midrange accommodations are chiefly
to complete our research, so we did the next hotels. In some areas of the Yucatán M$400
best thing and arranged for American expat can get you a cozy, attractively decorated room
Kevin Graham to update as much as possi- in a friendly small hotel. Many of the region’s
ble closer to press time. Dean also affected most appealing and memorable lodgings are
some hotels and restaurants around Laguna in the midrange bracket – small or medium-
Bacalar and Chetumal, but all were up and sized hotels, well cared for, with a friendly
DIRECTORY 248 D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels D I R E C T O R Y • • A c c o m m o d a t i o n s 249

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they can be good value for three or four a bed; others are deluxe, with electric light,
PRACTICALITIES people. Tourist offices and advertisements mosquito net, fan, fridge, bar and decora-
in local newspapers (especially English- tions. Prices for simple cabanas cost M$100
All international visitors (including US and Canadian citizens) need a valid passport to enter
language newspapers) are good sources to M$350. On the Caribbean some luxury
Mexico.
of information. cabanas can cost over M$1000.
Mexico’s only English-language daily is the Herald, an international edition of the Miami In Yucatán B&Bs are generally upmarket
Herald, with a Mexico insert. It’s available in some upmarket hotels in Mérida and Cancún and guesthouses, often aimed at foreign tourists; Hostels
at some Sanborns stores. they are usually comfortable and enjoyable Hostels exist in many of the towns and cities
Mérida’s El Diario de Yucatán (www.yucatan.com.mx, in Spanish) is one of the country’s most places to stay. where backpackers congregate. They provide
respected newspapers. Yucatán Today (www.yucatantoday.com) offers good English-language dorm accommodations (for M$80 to M$120
info on Yucatán state. Camping & Trailer Parks per person), plus communal kitchens, bath-
Local TV is dominated by Televisa, which runs four of the six national channels; TV Azteca has
Most organized campgrounds are actually rooms, living space and sometimes some pri-
the other two. A growing number of viewers have multichannel cable or satellite systems,
trailer parks set up for people with camper vate rooms. Standards of hygiene and security
such as Cablevision or Sky TV.
vans and trailers (caravans) but are open to vary, but aside from being cheap, hostels are
tent campers at lower rates. They’re most generally relaxed and good places to meet
Electrical current is 110V, 60Hz, and most plugs have two flat prongs, just like in the USA and common along the coast. Some are very other travelers. HostelWorld (www.hostelworld.com)
Canada. basic, others quite luxurious. Expect to pay has listings.
Mexicans use the metric system for weights and measures. about M$50 to pitch a tent for two people, There are a handful of hostels affiliated
DVDs are encoded for Zone 4, the same as for Australia and New Zealand, though most use and M$100 to M$200 for two people with a with Mexico’s HI, Hostelling International Mexico
the NTSC image registration system, which makes them incompatible with the PAL system vehicle, using full facilities. (www.hostellingmexico.com). If you’re an HI mem-
used in most of Western Europe and Australia. Many DVDs sold in Mexico are illegal copies. The beach is public property in Mexico, and ber, you get a dollar or two off the nightly
you can basically pitch a tent anywhere you rates at these places.
As a rule, don’t drink the tap water. Cancún has potable tap water. can access. Of course, you’ll need to make sure
your luggage is secure and that you’re well Hotels
atmosphere and personal attention from staff. In popular destinations, at busy times it’s above the high-tide line. Some restaurants and Yucatán specializes in good midrange hotels
In some areas you’ll also find apartments, best to reserve a room in advance, or seek guesthouses in beach spots or country areas where two people can get a comfortable room
bungalows and more comfortable cabanas in a room early in the day. Many places take will let you pitch a tent on their patch for a with private bathroom, TV and often air-con
this price range. reservations via their websites or by email. couple of dollars per person. for M$400 to M$900. Often the hotel also
Top-end hotels run from classy interna- If a place is not booked out, a simple phone has a restaurant and bar. Among the most
tional hotels in cities to deluxe coastal resorts call earlier in the day, saying what time you’ll Casas de Huéspedes & Posadas charming lodgings, in both the midrange and
and luxurious smaller establishments catering arrive, is usually sufficient. A few places are Inexpensive and congenial accommodations top-end brackets, are the many old mansions,
to travelers with a taste for comfort and beau- reluctant to take reservations, but don’t worry: are often to be found at a casa de huéspedes, a inns and even convents turned into hotels.
tiful design, and the funds to pay for them. you should end up with a room somewhere. home converted into simple guest lodgings. These can be wonderfully atmospheric, with
Room prices given in this book are high- Accommodations prices are subject to two Good casas de huéspedes are usually family- fountains gurgling in flower-bedecked stone
season rates unless otherwise stated. In the taxes: impuesto de valor agregado (IVA, or run, with a relaxed, friendly atmosphere. courtyards. Some are a bit spartan; others
Yucatán, high season runs from Christmas value-added tax; 15%) and impuesto sobre hos- Many posadas (inns) are like casas de hués- have modern comforts and, consequently,
right through to Easter, plus most of July pedaje (ISH, or lodging tax; 2% in most states). pedes; others are small hotels. are more expensive.
and August. Outside the high season, many Many budget and some midrange establish- Nearly every town has its cheap hotels,
midrange and top-end establishments in ments only charge these taxes if you require Hammocks & Cabanas though substantially fewer are found on the
tourist destinations cut their room prices by a receipt. Generally, though, IVA and ISH are You’ll find hammocks and cabanas available Yucatán Peninsula than in other regions of
10% to 40%. They may also have special of- included in quoted prices. In top-end hotels mainly in low-key beach spots, such as Tulum. Mexico. There are clean, friendly, secure
fers and low weekend rates. Budget accom- a price may often be given as, say, ‘M$1000 A hammock can be a very comfortable place ones, and there are dark, dirty, smelly ones
modations are more likely to keep the same más impuestos’ (M$1000 plus taxes), in which to sleep in hot areas (but mosquito repellent where you may not feel your belongings are
rates year-round. case you must add 17% to the figure. When in or a net often comes in handy). You can rent safe. Expect to pay up to M$400 for a decent
In this book we use ‘single’ (abbreviated doubt, you can ask ‘¿Están incluidos los im- a hammock and a place to hang it – usually double room with private shower and hot
‘s’) to mean a room for one person, and puestos?’ (Are taxes included?). Prices given under a palm roof outside a small guesthouse water, more in Cancún, Cozumel or Playa del
‘double’ (‘d’) to mean a room for two people. in this book are those you are most likely to be or beach restaurant – for M$60 to M$130. Carmen, and perhaps if you arrive during a
Mexicans sometimes use the phrase cuarto charged at each place, around high season un- With your own hammock, the cost comes popular time.
sencillo (literally, single room) to mean a room less stated otherwise, with or without the taxes down a bit. It’s easy enough to buy hammocks Yucatán has plenty of large, modern lux-
with one bed, which is often a cama matri- according to the establishment’s policy. in the Yucatán (see boxed text, p163); Mérida ury hotels, too, particularly in the coastal
monial (double bed). Sometimes one person specializes in them, and you’ll find hammocks resorts and in some former haciendas south
can occupy such a room for a lower price Apartments & B&Bs for sale all along the Riviera Maya. of Mérida. They offer the expected levels of
than two people. A cuarto doble often means In some places you can find departamentos Cabanas are usually huts – of wood, brick, luxury – with pools, gyms, bars, restaurants
a room with two beds, which may both be (apartments) for tourists with fully equipped adobe and stone – with a palm-thatched roof. and so on – at prices that are sometimes agree-
camas matrimoniales. kitchens. Some are very comfortable and Some have dirt floors and nothing inside but ably modest (and sometimes not!). If you like
DIRECTORY 250 D I R E C T O R Y • • A c t i v i t i e s Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • C l i m a t e C h a r t s 251

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to stay in luxury but also enjoy saving some longer hours in coastal resorts. Post offices chapter, p64). Archaeological sites can be fun CANCÚN 4m (13ft)
Average
Max/Min
money, look for a locally owned hotel. typically open from 8am to 6pm Monday to if your kids are into climbing pyramids and °C °F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm
Fortunately for families and small groups of Friday, and 9am to 1pm Saturday. exploring tunnels. 40 104 100 16 400
travelers, many hotels in all price ranges have In this book we only spell out opening
rooms for three, four or five people that cost hours where they do not fit the above pa- 30 86 75 12 300

not much more than a double. rameters. See the Quick Reference inside
CLIMATE CHARTS
Hot, sunny and humid days are the norm for 20 68 50 8 200
this book’s front cover for further typical
much of the year in the Yucatán, although the
ACTIVITIES opening hours.
season of nortes (storms bringing wind and
10 50 25 4 100

There’s absolutely no shortage of things to do Most museums have one closing day a
rain from the north) lowers temperatures a bit 0 32 0 0 0
on the Yucatán Peninsula: some of the best week, typically Monday. On Sunday nearly J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
from November through February or March.
scuba diving and snorkeling in the world is all archaeological sites and museums offer
During the rainy season, which runs from
available here, beach lovers will find plenty free admission for Mexican nationals, and the
May through October, you can expect heavy COZUMEL 4m (13ft)
Average
Max/Min
of powdery white sand on which to sunbathe, major ones can get very crowded.
rains for an hour or two most afternoons, but °C °F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm
and the ancient Maya cities that dot the land-
generally clear weather otherwise. The hur- 40 104 100 16 400
scape of the Yucatán are a thrill to explore. CHILDREN ricane season lasts from June to November,
Good sources on active tourism in Mexico Snorkeling in caves, playing on the beach, 30 86 75 12 300
with most of the activity from mid-August to
include Amtave (Mexican Association of Adventure Travel hiking in the jungle…kids will find plenty
mid-September. For tips on the best seasons 20 68 50 8 200
& Ecotourism;%55-5688-3883, 800-654-4452; www.amtave of ways to keep busy in the Yucatán. And
to travel, see p20.
.org), based in Mexico City with 60 member or- as elsewhere in Mexico, children take center 10 50 25 4 100
ganizations and companies around the country, stage – with few exceptions, children are wel-
and Ecoturismo Yucatan (www.ecoyuc.com.mx), GORP come at all kinds of hotels and in virtually COURSES 0 32
J F MAM J J A S O N D
0 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D
0

(www.gorp.com), Planeta.com (www.planeta.com) and every café and restaurant. In this book you’ll Taking classes can be a great way to meet
Mexonline.com (www.mexonline.com). find especially child-friendly places identified people and get an inside angle on local life as
For more details on the major activities, with the cicon. well as study the language or culture. Mexican MÉRIDA 17m (56ft)
Average
Max/Min

check the page references below and also the Lonely Planet’s Travel with Children has universities and colleges often offer classes. °C °F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm
40 104 100 16 400
destination chapters of this book. lots of practical advice on the subject, drawn For long-term study in Mexico you’ll need a
bird- and wildlife-watching (p68) from firsthand experience. student visa; contact a Mexican consulate for 30 86 75 12 300
cycling (p68) For details on documents required for details. You can also arrange informal Spanish
diving and snorkeling (p64) under-18 travelers, see p263. tutoring through most hostels. A good US 20 68 50 8 200

fishing (p69) source on study possibilities in Mexico is the 10 50 25 4 100

hiking (p67) Practicalities Council on International Educational Exchange (www
kayaking (p66) Cots for hotel rooms and high chairs for res- .ciee.org). There are also helpful links on the 0 32 0 0 0
J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D
kiteboarding and windsurfing (p67) taurants are available mainly in midrange and website of Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com).
ziplining (p69) top-end establishments. If you want a rental Mérida, with its abundance of cultural ac-
car with a child safety seat, the major inter- tivities and central location, makes a great SAN CRISTÓBAL Average
Max/Min
BUSINESS HOURS national car-rental firms are the most reliable place to study Spanish. Among the schools DE LAS CASAS 2276m (7462ft)
°C °F Temp/Humidity % in Rainfall mm
The siesta tradition wisely lives on in this hot providers. You will probably have to pay a few there, Centro de Idiomas del Sureste (CIS;%923-0954; 40 104 100 16 400

climate, with shops generally open from 9am dollars extra per day. www.cisyucatan.com.mx; Calle 52 No 455 btwn Calles 49 &
30 86 75 12 300
to 2pm, then reopening from 4pm to 7pm It’s usually not hard to find an inexpensive 51) stands out. Thirty hours of instruction,
Monday to Saturday. Some may not be open babysitter – ask at your hotel. Diapers (nap- including a two-week homestay in a local 20 68 50 8 200
on Saturday afternoon. Shops in malls and pies) are widely available, but if you depend household and three meals a day, costs about
coastal resort towns often open on Sunday. on some particular cream, lotion, baby food M$7300. Other plans are available. 10 50 25 4 100

Supermarkets and department stores usually or medicine, bring it with you. Public breast- In Campeche, the Universidad Autónoma de 0 32 0 0 0
open from 9am or 10am to 10pm daily. feeding is not common and, when done, is Campeche Centro de Español y Maya (CEM; etzna.uacam J F MAM J J A S O N D J F MAM J J A S O N D

Government offices have similar Monday- done discreetly. .mx/cem/principal.htm; Av Agustin Melgar) offers four- to
to-Friday hours to shops, with a greater likeli- eight-week summer language courses, and
hood of having the 2pm to 4pm lunch break. Sights & Activities homestays can be arranged. CUSTOMS
Tourism-related offices usually open on Apart from the ruins, beaches and swim- In Playa del Carmen, Playa Lingua del Visitors are allowed to bring duty-free items
Saturday, too, from at least 9am to 1pm. ming pools, you’ll find excellent special at- Caribe (%873-3876; www.playalingua.com; Calle 20) for personal use, such as clothing; a camera
Banks are normally open 9am to 5pm tractions, such as amusement parks, water has 20-hour-per-week classes for around and video camera; up to 12 rolls of film or
Monday to Friday, and some from 9am to parks, zoos, aquariums and other fun places M$1850. International House (%803-3388; www videotapes; a cellular phone; a laptop compu-
1pm Saturday. In smaller towns they may on the peninsula. .ihrivieramaya.com; Calle 14) offers homestays, a ter; a portable radio or CD player; medicine
close earlier or not open on Saturday. Casas de Kids can also enjoy activities such as small residence hall and Spanish lessons. for personal use, with prescription in the case
cambio (money-exchange offices) are usually snorkeling, riding bicycles and boats, and Twenty hours of instruction per week of psychotropic drugs; 3L of wine, beer or
open from 9am to 7pm daily, often with even watching wildlife (see the Yucatán Outdoors costs M$2000. liquor (adults only); 400 cigarettes (adults);
DIRECTORY 252 D I R E C T O R Y • • D a n g e r s & A n n o y a n c e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • D i s c o u n t C a r d s 253

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and M$3000 worth of other goods (M$500 if remain minor risks in crowded buses and Use ATMs only during working hours Belize Mexico City (%55-5520-1274; embelize@prodigy
arriving by land). bus stations, airports, markets or anywhere and choose ones in secure locations, not .net.mx; Bernardo de Gálvez 215, Lomas de Chapultepec)
The normal routine when you enter frequented by large numbers of tourists. those open to the street. Canada Mexico City (%55-5724-7900; www.canada.org
Mexico is to complete a customs declaration Mugging is less common than purse- Do not leave anything valuable-looking .mx; Schiller 529, Polanco); Cancún (Map p75;%998-883-
form (which lists duty-free allowances) and snatching, but more serious: resistance may in a parked vehicle. 3360; Plaza Caracol II, 3rd fl, Local 330, Blvd Kukulcán Km
then place it in a machine. If the machine be met with violence (do not resist). Usually Be careful about accepting drinks from 8.5, Zona Hotelera)
shows a green light, you pass without inspec- these robbers will not harm you: they just overly social characters in bars, especially Cuba Mexico City (%55-5280-8093; www.embacuba
tion. If a red light shows, your baggage will want your money, fast. in tourist-heavy zones; there have been .com.mx; Av Presidente Masaryk 554, Polanco); Cancún
be searched. To minimize the chances of being a victim, cases of drugging followed by robbery (Map p77;%998-884-3423; Pecari 17); Mérida
think about the following: and assault. (%999-944-4215; Calle 1-D No 32, Colonia Campestre)
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES Don’t go where there are few other people Be wary of attempts at credit-card fraud. France Mexico City (%55-9171-9700; www.francia
Despite often alarming media reports and in the vicinity; this includes camping in One method is when the cashier swipes .org.mx; Campos Elíseos 339, Polanco); Cancún (Map
official warnings for Mexico in general, secluded places. A simple rule: if there your card twice (once for the transaction p77;%998-883-9816; Calle Pargo 24 SM3); Mérida
the Yucatán Peninsula remains a safe place are women and children around, you’re and once for nefarious purposes). Keep (%999-930-1500; Calle 60 No 385)
to travel, and with just a few precautions probably safe. your card in sight at all times. Germany Mexico City (%55-5283-2200; www.mexiko
you can minimize the risk of encountering Don’t leave any valuables unattended .diplo.de; Horacio 1506, Losw Morales); Cancún (Map
problems. while you swim. Run-and-grab thefts DISCOUNT CARDS p77;%998-884-1898; Punta Conoco 36, SM24)
Enjoy yourself in the ocean, but beware of by people lurking in the woods are a The ISIC student card, IYTC card for travelers Guatemala Mexico City (%55-5540-7520; emba
undertows and riptides on any beach. Women common occurrence on the Caribbean under 26 years, and ITIC card for teachers can [email protected]; Av Explanada 1025, Lomas de
traveling alone, and even pairs of women, coast. help you obtain discounted air tickets to/from Chapultepec)
should be cautious about going to remote Leave most of your money, important Mexico at student- and youth-oriented travel Ireland Mexico City (%55-5520-5803; embajada
beach and jungle spots. Cocaine and mari- documents and smaller valuables in a agencies. Reduced prices for buses, museums, @irlanda.org.mx; Cerrada Blvd Ávila Camacho 76, 3rd fl,
juana are prevalent in Mexico. They are both sealed, signed envelope in your hotel’s archaeological sites and so on are usually only Lomas de Chapultepec)
illegal. The easiest way to avoid the problems safe, unless you have immediate need of for those with Mexican education credentials, Italy Mexico City (%55-5596-3655; www.ambcitta
related with these drugs is by avoiding them. these items. Virtually all hotels, except but the aforementioned cards will sometimes delmessico.esteri.it/Ambasciata_Cittadelmessico; Paseo
If you get busted using or transporting illegal the very cheapest, provide safekeeping get you a reduction. The ISIC card may also de las Palmas 1994, Lomas de Chapultepec); Cancún (Map
drugs, your consulate will not help you. for guests’ valuables. get you discounts in a few hostels. p77;%998-884-1261; Alcatraces 39, SM22)
Foreign affairs departments can supply a Leave valuables in a locked suitcase or The HI card will save you about M$10 in Japan Mexico City (%55-5211-0028; www.mx
variety of useful data about travel to Mexico: backpack in your hotel room, or a locker affiliated hostels in the Yucatán. .emb-japan.go.jp; Paseo de la Reforma 395, Lomas de
Australia (%61-2-6261-1111; www.dfat.gov.au) in a hostel dorm, rather than carry them Chapultepec)
Canada (%in Canada 800-267-8376, outside Canada on the street. EMBASSIES & CONSULATES Netherlands Mexico City (%55-5258-9921; www
613-944-4000; www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca) Carry only a small amount of money – It’s important to understand what your own .paisesbajos.com.mx; Av Vasco de Quiroga 3000, 7th fl,
UK (%020-7008-1500; www.fco.gov.uk) enough for an outing – in a pocket. If embassy – the embassy of the country of Santa Fe); Cancún (off Map p77;%998-886-0070; Marti-
USA (%888-407-4747; www.travel.state.gov) you do have to carry valuables, keep which you are a citizen – can and can’t do nair, Planta Alta, Terminal 2, Aeropuerto Internacional de
them hidden (preferably in a money belt, to help you if you get into trouble. Generally Cancún); Mérida (%999-924-3122; Calle 64 No 418)
Theft & Robbery shoulder wallet or pouch underneath speaking, it won’t be much help in emergen- New Zealand Mexico City (%55-5283-9460; kiwimexico
As a rule, Mexicans are extremely honest your clothing). cies if the trouble you’re in is remotely your @prodigy.net.mx; Jaime Balmes 8, Level 4, Los Morales)
and are unlikely to steal anything from you. Don’t keep money, credit or debit cards, own fault. Remember that you are bound by Spain Mexico City (%55-5282-2974; www.mae
However, the rare individual may target wallets or bags in open view any longer the laws of the country you are in. .es/embajadas/mexico/es/home; Galileo 114, Polanco)
tourists likely to be carrying cash or valu- than you have to. At ticket counters, keep In genuine emergencies you might get some UK Mexico City (%55-5242-8500; www.embajada
ables. Thus, pickpocketing and bag-snatching a hand or foot on your bag at all times. assistance, such as a list of lawyers, but only if britanica.com.mx; Río Lerma 71, Colonia Cuauhtémoc);
other channels have been exhausted. Cancún (Map p75;%998-881-0100; The Royal Sands, Blvd
Kukulcán Km 13.5, Zona Hotelera)
HIGHWAY ROBBERY Mexican Embassies & Consulates USA Mexico City (%55-5080-2000; mexico.usembassy.gov;
Though it’s rare on the Yucatán Peninsula, bandits occasionally hold up buses and other vehi- Updated details can be found at Secretaría Paseo de la Reforma 305); Cancún (Map p75;%998-883-
cles on intercity routes, especially at night, taking luggage or valuables. Sometimes buses are Relaciones Exteriores (www.sre.gob.mx, in Spanish) and 0272; 2o Nivel No 320-323, Plaza Caracol Dos, Blvd Kukulcán,
robbed by people who board as passengers. Roads linking the peninsula with Chiapas state are Embassyworld.com (www.embassyworld.com). Zona Hotelera); Mérida (%999-942-5700; Calle 60 No
sometimes the scene of such robberies. These routes are also notorious for frequent thefts from 338-K, btwn Calles 29 & 31)
luggage on 2nd-class buses, whose many stops and sometimes-crowded conditions (and sleepy Embassies & Consulates in Mexico
passengers) afford miscreants the opportunity to unzip or slash open bags. Highway holdups Many embassies or their consular sections are FESTIVALS & EVENTS
were once weekly occurrences on Hwy 199 between Ocosingo and Palenque, but an increased in Mexico City; Cancún is home to several Mexico’s frequent fiestas are highly colorful
military and police presence has made this route pretty safe now. consulates, and there are some diplomatic affairs that often go on for several days and
The best way to avoid highway robbery is to travel by day, preferably by toll highway. Deluxe outposts in Mérida as well. add a great deal of spice to everyday life. In
and 1st-class buses use toll highways, where they exist; 2nd-class buses do not. Australia Mexico City (%55-1101-2200; www.mexico addition to the major national festivals listed
.embassy.gov.au; Rubén Darío 55, Polanco) below, each town has many local saint’s days,
DIRECTORY 254 D I R E C T O R Y • • F o o d lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • G a y & Le s b i a n T r a v e l e r s 255

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Typical restaurant hours are 7am to be- Día de Nacimiento de Benito Juárez (Anniversary of
LOCAL FIESTAS tween 10pm and midnight. If a restaurant Benito Juárez’ birth) March 21
In addition to national celebrations, every town and city on the Yucatán Peninsula holds its own has a closing day, it’s usually Sunday, Monday Día del Trabajo (Labor Day) May 1
fiestas, often in honor of its patron saint. Street parades of holy images, special costumes, fire- or Tuesday. Cafés typically open from 8am Cinco de Mayo (Anniversary of Mexico’s victory over the
works, dancing, lots of music and plenty of drinking are all part of the colorful scene. Sometimes to 10pm daily. Bars, too, are normally open French at Puebla) May 5
bloodless bullfights are on the program as well, or the Danza de la Cabeza de Cochino. This daily, but each seems to have its own hours. Día de la Independencia (Independence Day)
dance, rooted in Maya tradition, takes place around an altar holding a pig’s head decorated with Travelers should be careful of unpeeled fruit September 16
offerings of flowers, ribbons, bread, liquor and cigarettes. A likely time to catch it is at the Fiesta and uncooked vegetables. While visitors with Día de la Raza (Columbus’ discovery of the New World)
de la Inmaculada Concepción. Though Yucatecans also celebrate the Festival of the Immaculate iron stomachs shouldn’t have much trouble, October 12
Conception on December 8, with the rest of the Catholic world, many towns on the peninsula those with a delicate constitution will only Día de la Revolución (Revolution Day) November 20
hold nine days of devotions leading up to the last Sunday in January when the pig is ritually want to eat uncooked veggies in higher- Día de Navidad (Christmas Day) December 25
slaughtered and put to cooking. end restaurants. For a full introduction to
Other lively patron-saint festivals and Yucatán-specific celebrations are mentioned in the des- Yucatán’s distinctive cuisine, see the Food & At Easter businesses usually close from Good
tination chapters. Drink chapter, p50. Friday (Viernes Santo) to Easter Sunday
(Domingo de Resurrección). Many offices
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELERS and businesses close during major national
regional festivals and so on (see destination Grito de Dolores, are repeated from the balcony of every Mexico is more broad-minded about sexu- festivals (see p253).
chapters for information on these). There’s town hall in the land, usually followed by fireworks. ality than you might expect. Gays and les-
also a national public holiday just about every bians rarely attract open discrimination or INSURANCE
month (see opposite), often the occasion for November violence. Discrimination based on sexual A travel insurance policy to cover theft, loss
yet further merriment. Día de Todos los Santos (All Saints’ Day) & Día de orientation has been illegal since 1999 and and medical problems is a good idea. Some
los Muertos (Day of the Dead) On November 1 and 2, in can be punished with up to three years in policies specifically exclude dangerous activi-
January Mexico’s most characteristic fiesta, the souls of the dead prison. Gay men have a more public profile ties, such as scuba diving, motorcycling and
Día de los Reyes Magos (Three Kings’ Day or Epiphany) are believed to return to earth. Families build altars in than lesbians. Cancún has a fairly active gay even trekking.
On January 6, this is the day when Mexican children their homes and visit graveyards to commune with their scene, and there are a number of gay-friendly For further information on medical insur-
traditionally receive gifts, rather than at Christmas (but dead, taking garlands and gifts. A happy atmosphere locals in Mérida. ance, see p276. Worldwide cover to travelers
some get two loads of presents!). A good place to be at this prevails. The International Gay and Lesbian Travel from over 44 countries is available online at
time is Tizimín (p197). Festival Cervantino Barroco (Cultural fair) San Association (www.traveliglta.com) provides infor- www.lonelyplanet.com/travel _services.
Cristóbal de Las Casas (p235) puts on a great art and mation on the major travel providers in the For information on motor insurance, see
February/March culture fair, with music, dance, theater and more. Held gay sector. US-based Arco Iris Tours (%in the USA p270.
Día de la Candelaría (Candlemas) Held on February 2, late October or early November. 800-765-4370; www.arcoiristours.com) specializes in
and commemorates the presentation of Jesus in the gay travel to Mexico and organizes an annual INTERNET ACCESS
temple 40 days after his birth; celebrated with processions, December International Gay Festival in Cancún. Cybercafés (which charge about M$10 to
bullfights and dancing in many towns. Día de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (Day of A detailed Mexico gay travel guide and M$15 per hour) and web-based email are
Carnaval A big bash preceding the 40-day penance of Our Lady of Guadalupe) A week or more of celebrations articles are available at Out&About (www.gay common in the Yucatán. A number of cy-
Lent, Carnaval takes place during the week or so before throughout Mexico leads up to the day in honor of the .com/travel/outandabout). Another good source bercafés are equipped with CD burners, web-
Ash Wednesday (which falls 46 days before Easter Sunday; Virgin who appeared to an indigenous Mexican, Juan of information is the Gay Mexico Network (www cams, headphones and so on. Few have card
late February or early March). It’s festively celebrated in Diego, in 1531, and has since become Mexico’s religious .gaymexico.net). It offers information on gay- readers, so bring your own or the camera-to-
Mérida, Campeche, Ciudad del Carmen and Chetumal with patron. Children are taken to church dressed as little Juan friendly hotels and tours in Mexico, and pub- USB cable if you plan on burning photos to
parades, music, food, drink, dancing, fireworks and fun. Diegos or indigenous girls. Held on December 12. lishes a newsletter offering discounted rooms CD along the way.
Posadas From December 16 to 24, nine nights of can- in gay-friendly accommodations. Quite a few accommodations provide
March/April dlelit parades re-enact the journey of Mary and Joseph to internet access of some kind (shown as
Semana Santa Held throughout Holy Week (starting on Bethlehem. More important in small towns than cities. HOLIDAYS iin this book). Facilities vary from a cou-
Palm Sunday – Domingo de Ramos), solemn processions Día de Navidad Christmas is traditionally celebrated The chief holiday periods are Christmas to ple of computers in the lobby, for which
move through the streets. On Good Friday (Viernes Santo) with a feast in the early hours of December 25, after New Year, Semana Santa (the week leading you may or may not have to pay, to well-
there are dramatic re-enactments of the Passion Play, with midnight Mass. up to Easter and up to a week afterwards), equipped business centers or wi-fi access
locals taking the role of penitents following their savior and mid-July to mid-August. Transportation (internet inalámbrico).
through the Stations of the Cross. FOOD and tourist accommodations are heavily You may also be able to connect your own
Some Eating sections of this book are di- booked at these times. laptop or hand-held device to the internet
September vided into budget, midrange and top-end Banks, post offices, government offices and through the telephone socket in your room.
Día de la Independencia (Independence Day) On categories. We define a midrange restaurant many shops throughout Mexico are closed on Be aware that your modem may not work
September 16, the anniversary of the start of Mexico’s War as one where a main dish at lunch or dinner the following national holidays: once you leave your home country. The safest
of Independence in 1810 provokes an upsurge of patriotic costs M$60 to M$120. Budget and top-end Año Nuevo (New Year’s Day) January 1 option is to buy a reputable ‘global’ modem
feeling every year: on the evening of the 15th, the words places are, respectively, less than M$60 and Día de la Constitución (Constitution Day) February 5 before you leave home. For lots of useful stuff
of Padre Miguel Hidalgo’s famous call to rebellion, the over M$120. Día de la Bandera (Day of the National Flag) February 24 on connecting to the internet while traveling,
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visit Steve Kropla’s Help for World Travellers World (M$60) showing all of the peninsula MONEY withdrawals is normally better than the
(www.kropla.com). and parts of Tabasco and Chiapas. Mexico’s currency is the peso, usually denoted ‘tourist rate’ – though that advantage may
Guía Roji also publishes maps of each by the ‘M$’ sign. Prices are quoted in Mexican be negated by handling fees, interest charges
LEGAL MATTERS Mexican state (M$50) and an annually up- pesos in this book. The peso is divided into and other methods that banks have of taking
Mexican Law dated national road atlas called Mapa Turístico 100 centavos. Coins come in denominations your money.
Mexican law presumes an accused person is Carreteras de Mexico (M$80). It’s widely avail- of 20 and 50 centavos and one, two, five and
guilty until proven innocent. able throughout Mexico and can be bought 10 pesos; notes in 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 Banks & Casas de Cambio
The minimum jail sentence for possession from online booksellers. Also useful are (and occasionally 1000) pesos. You can exchange currency in banks or at
of more than a token amount of any narcotic, Quimera publisher’s regional road maps. For exchange rates, see the Quick Reference casas de cambio, which are often single-
including marijuana and amphetamines, is Riviera Maya, Cancún, Cozumel, Isla inside this book’s front cover. For information window kiosks. Banks go through a more
10 months – trafficking gets you a minimum Mujeres, Chichén Itzá and Playa del Carmen on costs, see p20. time-consuming procedure than casas de
of 10 years. As in most other countries, the foldout maps are published by the American The most convenient form of money is cambio and usually have shorter hours. Casas
purchase of controlled medication requires a couple behind Can-Do Maps (www.cancunmap.com). a major international credit or debit card – de cambio can easily be found in just about
doctor’s prescription. In addition to containing multiple insert preferably two if you’ve got them. Visa, every large or medium-size town and in many
Road travelers should expect occasional maps, they also have a useful index for res- MasterCard and American Express cards can smaller ones. They’re quick and often open
police or military checkpoints. They are taurants, hotels and attractions. be used to obtain cash easily from ATMs in on evenings or weekends, but be aware that
normally looking for drugs, weapons or A good internet source is Maps of Mexico Mexico, and are accepted for payment by most some don’t accept traveler’s checks.
illegal migrants. (www.maps-of-mexico.com), with detailed maps of airlines, car-rental companies, travel agents, Currency-exchange rates vary from one
See p270 for information on the legal all the states. many upmarket hotels, and some restaurants bank or casa de cambio to another; and
aspects of road accidents. Inegi (Instituto Nacional de Estadística, Geografía e and shops. Occasionally there’s a surcharge there is often a better rate offered for efec-
Federal law establishes the minimum age Informática; %800-490-4200; www.inegi.gob.mx) pub- for paying by card. Making a purchase by tivo (cash) than for traveler’s checks. After
of consent at 12 years, but state laws often lishes a large-scale map series covering all credit card normally gives you a more favo- hours or on weekends, hotels may ex-
override these laws, varying from 14 to 18 of Mexico at 1:50,000 and 1:250,000, plus rable rate than exchanging money at a bank, change currency, though their rates tend to
years old. For more information on the state maps at 1:700,000. Most of these maps but you’ll normally have to pay your card be unfavorable.
age of consent and sex tourism, see boxed have been updated within the past decade, issuer a ‘foreign exchange’ transaction fee of
text, p85. and they are well worth having if you plan around 2.5%. (They always figure out a way International Transfers
Useful warnings on Mexican law are to do any hiking or back-country exploring. to get you in the end!) Should you need money wired to you in
found on the website of US Department of State Inegi’s Centros de Información in the pe- As a backup to credit or debit cards, it’s Mexico, an easy and quick method is the
(www.travel.state.gov). ninsula’s principal cities sell these maps for a good idea to take some traveler’s checks ‘Dinero en Minutos’ (Money in Minutes)
M$40 to M$60 each. Its addresses: (cheques de viajero) and a little cash. US dol- service of Western Union (%in the USA 800-325-
MAPS Campeche (%981-127-3150; Calles 8 & 63, Planta Baja, lars are by far the most easily exchangeable 6000; www.westernunion.com). The service is of-
Free city and regional maps of varying qual- Edificio Lavalle) foreign currency in Mexico (and indeed are fered by thousands of bank branches and
ity are given away by tourist offices around Cancún (Map p77;%998-884-4099, ext 7943; Av common for payment in Cancún and other other businesses around Mexico, identi-
the peninsula. Tankah 70) heavily touristed zones, though the exchange fied by black-and-yellow signs proclaim-
Quality regional maps include the highly Chetumal (%983-832-2733; cnr Avs Carmen Ochoa de rate is rarely favorable). Euros, British pounds ing ‘Western Union Dinero en Minutos.’
detailed ITMB (www.itmb.com) 1:500,000 Yucatán Merino & Independencia) and Canadian dollars, in cash or traveler’s Your sender pays the money online or at
Peninsula Travel Map and the sketchier Guía Mérida (%999-942-1740; Calle 60 No 378 btwn Calles checks, are accepted by most banks and a Western Union branch, along with a fee,
Roji (www.guiaroji.com.mx) 1:1,000,000 scale Maya 39 & 41) some casas de cambio (money-exchange and gives the details on who is to receive it
bureaus), but acceptance is less certain and where. When you pick it up, take along
outside the main cities and tourist cent- photo identification. Western Union has
GETTING LEGAL HELP ers. American Express traveler’s checks are offices worldwide.
If arrested, you have the right to notify your embassy or consulate. However, what consular staff recognized by banks, casas de cambio and US post offices (%888-368-4669; www.usps.com)
can do for you is limited; see p253 for details. The longest a person can be detained by police top-end hotels, but are not accepted in most offer reasonably cheap money transfers to
without a specific accusation is 72 hours. mom-and-pop establishments. branches of Bancomer bank in Mexico. The
Tourist offices, especially state-run branches, can often help you with legal problems, such For tips on keeping your money safe, see service is called Dinero Seguro.
as complaints or reporting crimes, police seeking bribes (see p275) or lost articles. The national p252.
tourism ministry, Sectur (%078, 800-987-8224), offers 24-hour phone advice. Taxes
If you are the victim of a crime, you may feel there is little to gain by going to the police, ATMs Mexico’s value-added tax (IVA) is levied
unless you need a statement to present to your insurance company. If you go to the police ATMs (caja permanente or cajero automático at 15%. By law the tax must be included
and your Spanish is poor, take a more fluent speaker. Also take your passport and tourist in Spanish) are plentiful in Yucatán, and are in prices quoted to you and should not be
card, if you still have them. If you just want to report a theft for the purposes of an insur- the easiest source of cash. You can use major added afterward. Signs in shops and notices
ance claim, say you want to ‘poner una acta de un robo’ (make a record of a robbery). This credit cards and some bank cards, such as on restaurant menus often state ‘IVA in-
should make it clear that you merely want a piece of paper and you should get it without those on the Cirrus and Plus systems, to cluido.’ Occasionally they state instead that
too much trouble. withdraw pesos (or dollars) from ATMs. IVA must be added to the quoted prices. In
The exchange rate that banks use for ATM Quintana Roo, IVA is 10%.
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Hotel rooms are also subject to the lodging the PAL system common to most of Western Post offices (oficinas de correos) are typi- your money is likely to go to the artisans
tax (ISH). Each Mexican state sets its own rate, Europe and Australia, and the Secam system cally open from 8am to 6pm Monday to themselves and less to entrepreneurs.
but in most it’s 2%. used in France. Friday, and 9am to 1pm Saturday. Prices for handicrafts sold in shops are
If your camera breaks down, you’ll be able You can receive letters and packages care generally nonnegotiable, while in markets
Tipping & Bargaining to find a repair shop in most sizable towns, of a post office if they’re addressed to the post bargaining is the rule.
In general, employees of small, cheap restau- and prices will be agreeably low. office’s lista de correos (mail list), as follows: Refunds of the 10% to 15% IVA tax on
rants don’t expect much in the way of tips – For more information on taking travel pho- Kate REID (last name in capitals and some purchases are available for tourists
though they like to receive them – while those tographs, check out Lonely Planet’s Travel underlined) who arrived in Mexico by plane or cruise
in resorts frequented by foreigners (such as Photography. Lista de Correos ship. Under the scheme, goods worth at least
in Cancún and Cozumel) expect you to be Cozumel M$1200 (approximately US$110) from any
lavish in your largesse. At the latter, tipping Photographing People & Places Quintana Roo 77609 (postcode) one store would qualify for the refund, on
is up to US levels of 15% or 20%; elsewhere It is illegal to take pictures in Mexican airports MEXICO presentation of receipts with the shop’s tax
10% is usually plenty. If you stay a few days in and of police stations and penal institutions. number (Registro Federal de Causantes) when
one place, you should leave up to 10% of your Use of a tripod at most ruins sites requires a When the letter reaches the post office, the the tourist leaves Mexico.
room costs for the people who have kept your special (expensive) permit obtainable only in name of the addressee is placed on an alpha-
room clean (assuming they have). A porter in Mexico City. betical list, which is updated daily and often Guayaberas
a midrange hotel would be happy with M$10 Be forewarned that a fee for use of video pinned up on the wall. To claim your mail, Guayaberas – light, elegant shirts with four
per bag. Car-parking attendants expect a tip of cameras is charged at many ruins and other present your passport or other identification. square pockets that are standard businesswear
M$3 to M$5, and the same is standard for gas attractions. At most Maya sites charging an There’s no charge, but many post offices only for men in southeast Mexico – originally hail
station attendants. Baggers in supermarkets entry fee, you need to pay an extra M$35 at hold lista mail for 10 days before returning it from Yucatán. The best guayaberas can be
are usually tipped a peso or two. the first site visited, which gives you a slip you to the sender. If you think you’re going to pick purchased in Mérida; see p164 for details.
Room rates are pretty inflexible, though can use all day, at any site you visit. mail up more than 10 days after it has arrived,
it can be worth asking if any discounts are In general, Yucatecans enjoy having their have it sent to Poste Restante, instead of Lista Hammocks
available, especially if it’s low season or you pictures taken and will be happy to pose de Correos. Poste restante may hold mail for Yucatecan hammocks are renowned for their
are going to stay a few nights. In markets for your camera – if you ask. Increasingly, up to a month, though no list of what has been quality and durability. There are many ham-
bargaining is the rule. You can also sometimes you may be asked to pay for the photo. This received is posted up. mock stores in Mérida, or bargain with sellers
bargain with drivers of unmetered taxis. is especially true in areas that see heavy You can also have packages sent to most ready to do so in the plazas and along the
tourist traffic. hotels (but you should ask beforehand). beach, particularly along the Riviera Maya
PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO If local people make any sign of being If you’re sending a package internation- and Isla Holbox, where many residents weave
Film & Equipment offended by your desire to photograph ally from Mexico, be prepared to open it for and sell them. For more on hammocks, see
Camera and film-processing shops, phar- them, you should put your camera away customs inspection; take packing materials boxed text, p163.
macies and hotels sell film. Most types of and apologize immediately, both out of with you to the post office and don’t seal it
film are available in larger cities and resorts, decency and for your own safety. This is till you get there. Hats
though slide film tends to be rarer outside especially so in Chiapas state (see Dangers For assured and speedy delivery, you can Attractive and comfortable panama hats,
Cancún (where several varieties of Fuji slide & Annoyances, p231). Also, many police of- use one of the more expensive international called jipijapas, are woven from locally grown
film are sold downtown at decent prices), ficers and soldiers do not like having their courier services, such as UPS (%800-902-9200; palm fibers in Bécal (p214) in Campeche
and usually limited to Agfachrome and photos taken. www.ups.com), FedEx (%800-900-1100; www.fedex.com) state. For more about the hats, see boxed
Kodak’s Ektachrome. or Mexico’s Estafeta (%800-903-3500; www.estafeta text, p214.
Film on sale at low prices may be outdated. POST .com). Packages up to 500g cost about M$300 to
If the date on the box is obscured by a price An airmail letter or postcard weighing up the USA or Canada, and M$400 to Europe. Huipiles
sticker, look under the sticker. Avoid film from to 20g costs M$10.50 to send to the USA or Proudly sported by Yucatecan women across
sun-exposed shop windows. Print processing Canada, M$13 to Europe or South America, SHOPPING the social spectrum, the huipil is an instantly
(revelando) costs under M$2 per photo; it’s and M$14.50 to the rest of the world. Items Yucatán travelers will find plenty of wonder- recognizable white tunic with brightly colored
almost always done in one hour and quality weighing between 20g and 50g cost M$17.50 ful regional handicrafts made predominantly flower embroidery around the yoke and near
is usually good. to M$24.50 (depending on where you are by indigenous people, including hats, ham- the bottom of the dress. For more information
Most cybercafés can burn your images onto sending them). Registrado (registered) serv- mocks, embroidered clothing and textiles, about huipiles, see p46.
a CD for M$20 or so. ice costs an extra M$5. Mark airmail items jewelry and ceramic items. You can buy
Video cameras and tapes are widely avail- ‘Vía Aérea.’ these artesanías in the villages where they Pottery & Other Items
able at photo supply stores in the largest cities Delivery times are elastic (inbound and are produced, or in stores and markets in Earthenware pots of varying quality can be
and in towns that receive many tourists. Prices outbound). An airmail letter from Mexico larger cities. Artesanías stores in cities will found across the peninsula. Among the most
are significantly higher than you may be used to the USA or Canada (or vice-versa) give you a good overview of what’s avail- interesting are those crafted in Ticul (p176), in
to in North America or Europe. Videotapes should take between four and 14 days. able and a basis for price comparisons. Yucatán state, where pottery-making predates
on sale in Mexico (like the rest of the Americas Mail to or from Europe may take between Traveling out to craft-making villages gives the Spanish conquest by hundreds of years.
and Japan) nearly all use the NTSC image one and three weeks, to Australasia two to you a chance to see artisans at work, and Ticul is equally noted for its fine reproduc-
registration system. This is incompatible with three weeks. if you buy there, you’ll know that more of tions of archaeological pieces.
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Also widely available in the region are Calling (Phone) Cards Collect Calls dial %00, then the US country code %1,
handmade blankets, leather goods, decora- Some phone (or calling) cards from other Una llamada por cobrar (collect call) can cost the New York City area code %212, then
tive cloth, wicker baskets, brilliantly painted countries can be used for making phone the receiving party much more than if they the local number.
gourds and lots of amber jewelry. Filigreed calls from Mexico by dialing special call you, so you may prefer to pay for a quick To call a number in Mexico from another
silver baubles are often a good buy in the access numbers: call to the other party to ask them to call you country, dial your international access code,
Yucatán as well. AT&T (%01-800-288-2872, 001-800-462-4240) back. If you do need to make a collect call, then the Mexico country code %52, then the
Edible and drinkable products worth taking Bell Canada (%01-800-123-0200, 01-800-021-1994) you can do so from card phones without a area code and number.
back with you include honey, a substance that BT Chargecard (%01-800-123-02-44) card. Call an operator at %020 for domes-
has been produced by Maya beekeepers for MCI (%001-800-674-7000) tic calls, or %090 for international calls, or Public Card Phones
centuries, and a special kind of tequila made Sprint (%001-800-877-8000) use a ‘home country direct’ service through These are common in towns and cities: you’ll
from the henequen plant that is produced which you make an international collect call usually find some at airports, bus stations
near Izamal. Warning: if you get an operator who asks for via an operator in the country you’re calling. and around the main plazas. Easily the most
your credit card instead of your calling-card The Mexican term for ‘home country direct’ common, and most reliable on costs, are those
SOLO TRAVELERS number, or says the service is unavailable, is país directo: but don’t count on Mexican marked with the name of the country’s biggest
A single room normally costs a little less than hang up. There have been scams in which international operators knowing the access phone company, Telmex. To use a Telmex
a double room, but budget travelers can cut calls are rerouted to super-expensive credit- codes for all countries. card phone you need a phone card known as
accommodation costs by staying in Mexico’s card phone services. Some casetas and hotels will make col- a tarjeta Ladatel. These are sold at kiosks and
increasing number of hostels. Hostels have the lect calls for you, but they usually charge for shops everywhere – look for the blue-and-
additional advantage of providing ready-made Cell Phones the service. yellow signs that read ‘De venta aquí Ladatel.’
company, and often a lot of fun and help- Like other Mexican phone numbers, every The cards come in denominations of M$30,
ful travel tips. It’s often easy to pair up with cell (cellular, mobile) phone number has Fax M$50 and M$100.
others at a hostel as there’s a steady stream an area code (usually the code of the city Public fax service is offered in many Mexican Calls from Telmex card phones cost M$1
of people following much similar routes. In where the phone was bought). When call- towns by the public telégrafos (telegraph) per minute for local calls; M$4 per minute
well-touristed places, notice boards advertise ing a cell phone from that same city, you office or the companies Telecomm and long-distance within Mexico; M$5 per minute
for traveling companions, flatmates, volunteer usually need to dial %044, followed by the Computel. Also look for ‘Fax’ or ‘Fax Público’ to the USA or Canada; M$10 per minute to
workers and so on. area code and number. When calling from signs on shops, businesses and casetas, and Central America; M$20 per minute to Europe,
Solo travelers should be especially watch- other cities, dial %01 (the normal long- in bus stations and airports. Typically you Alaska or South America; and M$25 per
ful of their luggage when on the road and distance prefix), followed by the area code will pay around M$10 per page to the USA minute to Hawaii, Australia, New Zealand
should stay in places with good security for and number. The owner of the phone receiv- or Canada. or Asia.
their valuables. One big drag of traveling ing the call has to pay a small amount as In some parts of Mexico frequented by
alone can be when you want to take a quick well as the caller. Locutorios & Casetas de Teléfono foreign tourists, you may notice a variety of
dip in the ocean – you’re stuck with your If you want to use a cell phone in Mexico, Costs in casetas de teléfono and locutorios phones that advertise that they accept credit
possessions and there’s no one to watch out one option for short visits is to get an in- are often lower than those for Telmex card cards or that you can make easy collect calls
for them. ternational plan for your own phone, which phones, and their advantages are that they to the USA on them. While some of these
Traveling alone, though, can be a very will enable you to call home. You can also eliminate street noise and you don’t need a phones may be a fair value, there are others
good way of getting into the local culture buy a Mexican cell phone for as little as phone card to use them. They often have a on which very high rates are charged. Be 100%
and it definitely improves your Spanish skills M$300 to M$600, including some air time. phone symbol outside, or signs saying ‘telé- sure about what you’ll pay before making a
as Mexicans are very sociable. Single women The most widespread cellular phone system fono,’ ‘Lada’ or ‘Larga Distancia.’ call on a non-Telmex phone.
can also check out the advice on p264. in Mexico is Telcel (www.telcel.com), with cover-
age almost everywhere that has a significant Prefixes & Codes Toll-Free & Operator Numbers
TELEPHONE & FAX population. Amigo cards, for recharging To call a town or city in Mexico other than Mexican toll-free numbers (%800 followed
Local calls are cheap; international calls can Telcel phones, are widely available from the one you’re in, you need to dial the long- by seven digits) always require the %01
be expensive, but needn’t be if you call from newsstands and minimarts. Other companies distance prefix (%01), followed by the area prefix. You can call most of these and the
the right place at the right time. Mexico is are Unefon (www.unefon.com.mx), with coverage code (two digits for Mexico City, Guadalajara % 060 and % 080 emergency numbers
well provided with fairly easy-to-use pub- mainly in the major cities; Iusacell (www.iusacell and Monterrey; three digits for everywhere from Telmex pay phones without inserting
lic card phones. Locutorios and casetas de .com.mx); and Movistar (www.telefonicamovistar.com else) and then the local number. For example, a phone card.
teléfono (call offices where an on-the-spot .mx). If you already have a Movistar phone to make a call from Cancún to Mérida, dial Most US and Canadian toll-free numbers
operator connects the call for you) are from another country, you can insert a %01, then the Mérida area code %999, then are %800 or %888 followed by seven dig-
quite widespread and can be cheaper than Mexican Movistar SIM card into it. the seven-digit local number. You’ll find area its. These can be reached from Mexico, by
card phones. Voice Over Internet Protocol For further information, contact your codes listed under city and town headings dialing %001 then replacing the prefix with
(VOIP) calling is available from many inter- service provider or visit Steve Kropla’s Help throughout this book. %880, but there is a charge for the call.
net cafés and is a great money-saver. A final for World Travellers (www.kropla.com), or www.gsm To make international calls, you need to For a Mexican domestic operator, dial
option is to call from your hotel, but hotels coverage.co.uk, which has coverage maps, dial the international prefix %00, followed %020; for an international operator, dial
charge what they like for this service. It’s lists of roaming partners and links to phone by the country code, area code and local %090. For Mexican directory information,
nearly always cheaper to go elsewhere. companies’ websites. number. For example, to call New York City, dial %040.
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To access the Mexican yellow pages online, Campeche (%981-811-9229, 800-900-2267; weeks and you may be required to apply in on your way out of Mexico (or before you
go to www.seccionamarilla.com.mx. www.campechetravel.com) your country of residence or citizenship. check in at an airport to fly out of Mexico).
Chiapas (%961-617-0550, 800-280-3500; For information on passport requirements, Most Mexican border posts have on-the-
VOIP www.turismochiapas.gob.mx) see p266. Non-US citizens passing (even in spot bank offices where you can pay the
Many internet cafés offer Voice Over Internet Quintana Roo (%983-835-0860; sedetur.qroo.gob.mx, transit) through the USA on the way to or DNI fee. When you pay at a bank, your
Protocol (VOIP) calling. Using services like in Spanish) from Mexico, or visiting Mexico from the tourist card will be stamped to prove that
Skype (www.skype.com), travelers can call inter- Tabasco (%993-316-3633, 800-216-0842; USA, should also check the passport and visa you have paid.
nationally to and from Mexico at a fraction www.visitetabasco.com) requirements for the USA. Look after your tourist card because it
of the price. Yucatán (%999-930-3760; www.mayayucatan.com) may be checked when you leave the country.
Tourist Card & Tourist Fee You can be fined M$420 for not having it.
TIME TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES The Mexican tourist card – officially the forma
The entire Yucatán Peninsula observes the Lodgings on the Yucatán Peninsula are gener- migratoria para turista (FMT) – is a brief EXTENSIONS & LOST CARDS
Hora del Centro, which is the same as US ally not disabled-friendly, though some hotels card document that you must fill out and get If the number of days given on your tour-
Central Time – GMT minus six hours in and restaurants (mostly towards the top end stamped by Mexican immigration when you ist card is less than the maximum for your
winter, and GMT minus five hours during of the market) and some public buildings now enter Mexico and keep till you leave. It’s avail- nationality (90 or 180 days in most cases),
daylight saving time. Daylight saving time provide wheelchair access. The absence of in- able at official border crossings, international its validity may be extended one or more
(horario de verano, summer time) runs from stitutionalized facilities is largely compensated airports and ports, and often from airlines, times, up to the maximum. To get a card
the first Sunday in April to the last Sunday in for, however, by Mexicans’ accommodating travel agencies and Mexican consulates. At the extended you have to apply to the INM,
October. Clocks go forward one hour in April attitudes toward others, and special arrange- US–Mexico border you won’t usually be given which has offices in many towns and cit-
and back one hour in October. ments are gladly improvised. one automatically – you have to ask for it. ies (see www.inm.gob.mx for a list, under
The fabled relaxed Mexican attitude toward Mobility is easiest in the major tourist At many US–Mexico border crossings Servicios Migratorios/Oficinas y horarios
time and urgency – mañana, mañana – is resorts and the more expensive hotels. Bus you don’t have to get the card stamped at the de atención). The procedure costs around
still practiced, especially outside the big cities. transportation can be difficult; flying or taking border itself, as Mexico’s Instituto Nacional M$200 and takes up to three hours. You’ll
Most Mexicans value simpatía (congeniality) a taxi is easier. de Migración (INM; National Immigration need your passport, tourist card, photocopies
over promptness. But if something is really Mobility International USA (%in the USA 541-343- Institute) has control points on the highways of the important pages of these documents
worth doing, it gets done. 1284; www.miusa.org) advises disabled travelers on where it’s also possible to do it. But it’s prefer- and, at some offices, evidence of ‘sufficient
mobility issues. Its website includes interna- able to get it done at the border itself, in case funds.’ A major credit card is usually OK for
TOILETS tional databases of exchange programs and there are complications elsewhere. the latter, or an amount in traveler’s checks
Public toilets are rare, so take advantage of disability organizations with several Mexican A tourist card only permits you to engage anywhere from M$1000 to M$10,000 de-
facilities in places such as hotels, restaurants, organizations listed. in what are considered to be tourist activities pending on the office.
bus terminals and museums; a fee of about In the UK, Radar (%020-7250-3222; www.radar (including sports, health, artistic and cultural Most INM offices will not extend a card
M$2 may be charged. It’s fairly common for .org.uk) is run by and for disabled people. Its activities). If the purpose of your visit is to until a few days before it is due to expire; don’t
toilets in budget hotels and restaurants to excellent website has links to good travel- work (even as a volunteer), to report or to bother trying earlier.
lack seats. When out and about, carry some specific sites. study, or to participate in humanitarian aid If you lose your card or need further infor-
toilet paper with you because it often won’t Two further sources for disabled travelers or human-rights observation, you may well mation, contact your nearest tourist office, or
be provided. If there’s a bin beside the toilet, are MossRehab ResourceNet (www.mossresourcenet need a visa. Check with a Mexican embassy the Sectur tourist office (%55-5250-0123, 800-903-
put soiled paper in it because the drains can’t .org) and Access-able Travel Source (www.access or consulate (p253). 9200) in Mexico City, or your embassy or con-
cope otherwise. -able.com). The maximum possible stay is 180 days for sulate. Any of these should be able to give you
most nationalities (90 days for Australians, an official note to take to your local INM of-
TOURIST INFORMATION VISAS Austrians, Israelis and Italians, among oth- fice, which will issue a duplicate for M$420.
Just about every town of interest to tourists in Every tourist must have an easily obtainable ers), but immigration officers will often put a
the Yucatán has a state or municipal tourist Mexican government tourist card (opposite). much lower number (as little as 15 or 30 days Under-18 Travelers
office. They are generally helpful with maps, Some nationalities also need to obtain visas. in some cases) unless you tell them specifi- To conform with regulations aimed at pre-
brochures and questions, and often some staff Because the regulations sometimes change, cally that you need, say, 90 or 180 days. It’s venting international child abduction, minors
members speak English. it’s wise to confirm them with a Mexican em- advisable to ask for more days than you think (people aged under 18) traveling to Mexico
You can call the Mexico City office of the bassy or consulate before you go (see p253). you’ll need. without one or both of their parents may need
national tourism ministry Sectur (%55-5250- Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) has links to Though the tourist card itself is issued to carry a notarized consent form signed by
0123/51, 800-903-9200, in the USA & Canada 800-446-3942, updated visa information. free of charge, a tourist fee of about M$200, the absent parent or parents, giving permis-
800-482-9832, in Europe 800-1111-2266; www.visitmexico Citizens of the USA, Canada, EU countries, called the derecho para no inmigrante (DNI; sion for the young traveler to make the in-
.com) at any time – 24 hours a day, seven days Australia, New Zealand, Iceland, Israel, Japan, nonimmigrant fee), will need to be paid ternational journey. Though Mexico does
a week – for information or help in English Norway and Switzerland are among those before you leave the country. If you enter not specifically require this documentation,
or Spanish. who do not require visas to enter Mexico as Mexico by air, however, the fee is included airlines flying to Mexico may refuse to board
Here are the contact details for the head tourists. The list changes from time to time; in your airfare. If you enter by land, you passengers without it. In the case of divorced
tourism offices of each state covered in check well ahead of travel. Visa procedures, must pay the fee at a bank in Mexico at any parents, a custody document may be required.
this book: for those who need them, can take several time before you re-enter the frontier zone If one or both parents are dead, or the traveler
 © Lonely Planet Publications
DIRECTORY 264 D I R E C T O R Y • • W o m e n T r a v e l e r s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com D I R E C T O R Y • • W o r k 265

DIRECTORY
has only one legal parent, a death certificate avoiding eye contact (wear sunglasses), WORK A foreigner working in Mexico normally
or notarized statement of the situation may dressing modestly, moving confidently and Mexicans themselves need jobs, and people needs a permit or government license, but a
be required. speaking coolly but politely if you feel that who enter Mexico as tourists are not legally school will often pay a foreign teacher in the
These rules are aimed primarily at visi- you must respond. Wearing a wedding ring allowed to take employment. The many expats form of a beca (scholarship), and thus circum-
tors from the USA and Canada but may also can prove helpful, too. Don’t put yourself in working in Mexico have usually been posted vent the law, or the school’s administration
apply to people from elsewhere. Procedures peril by doing things that Mexican women there by their companies or organizations will procure the appropriate papers.
vary from country to country; contact your would not do, such as challenging a man’s with all the necessary papers. Apart from teaching, you might find a little
country’s foreign affairs department and/ masculinity, drinking alone in a cantina, English speakers (and a few German or bar or restaurant work in tourist areas. It’s
or a Mexican consulate to find out exactly hitchhiking or going alone to isolated places. French speakers) may find teaching jobs in likely to be part-time and short-term.
what you need to do. Forms for the pur- Keep a clear head. Lone women, and even language schools, preparatorias (high schools) Jobs Abroad (www.jobsabroad.com) posts paid and
poses required are usually available from pairs of women, should be cautious about or universities, or can offer personal tutoring. unpaid job openings in Mexico. Lonely Planet
these authorities. going to remote beach spots. The pay is low, but you can live on it. (www.lonelyplanet.com) has several useful links.
In beach resorts many Mexican women
WOMEN TRAVELERS dress in shorts, skimpy tops or dresses, and
Women can have a great time in Mexico, swimsuits of all sizes, though others bow to
traveling with companions or traveling solo, modesty and swim in shorts and a T-shirt. On
but in this land that invented machismo, the streets of cities and towns you’ll notice
some concessions have to be made to local that women cover up and don’t display too
custom. Gender equalization has come a much leg or even their shoulders.
long way in a few decades, and Mexicans On local transportation, especially long
are generally a very polite people, but they journeys, it’s best to don long or mid-calf-
remain, by and large, great believers in the length trousers and a top that meets the top
difference (rather than the equality) between of your pants, with sleeves of some sort. That
the sexes. way you’ll feel most comfortable, and you
Women traveling alone can expect a few also have the benefit of keeping your valu-
catcalls and attempts to chat them up. Often ables out of sight with ease.
you can discourage unwanted attention by Most of all, appear self-assured.

VOLUNTEER YOUR TIME

Many opportunities exist for short- or longer-term unpaid work (or work that you pay to do) in
Mexico. Projects range from sea-turtle conservation to human-rights observation to work with
abused children.
Alliance of European Voluntary Service Organisations (www.alliance-network.org) A good
service for Europeans.
AmeriSpan (www.amerispan.com) Offers volunteer opportunities in environmental education
and other areas.
Coordinating Committee for International Voluntary Service (www.unesco.org/ccivs)
UNESCO’s volunteer service wing.
Council on International Educational Exchange (www.ciee.org) Arranges volunteer trips.
Global Exchange (www.globalexchange.org) Needs Spanish-speaking volunteer human-rights
observers to live for six to eight weeks in peace camps in Chiapas villages threatened by
violence.
Pronatura (http://english.pronatura-ppy.org.mx) An environmental NGO that seeks volunteers to
work with sea-turtle nesting areas in the Yucatán and in other projects.
Sipaz (www.sipaz.org) An international peace group, Sipaz needs Spanish-speaking volunteers
to work for a year or more in Chiapas.
Vive Mexico (www.vivemexico.org) NGO that coordinates international social, ecological and
cultural work camps in Mexico.
Volunteer Abroad (www.volunteerabroad.com) Has a very wide range of volunteer openings in
Mexico.
 266 lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r 267

Alaska Airlines (code AS; %800-252-7522; round-the-world ticket (these can cost as

Transportation www.alaskaair.com; hub Seattle)

America West (code HP; %800-428-4322;
www.americawest.com; hub Phoenix)
little as UK£900, A$2100 or US$1700), or
a Circle Pacific ticket, which uses a com-
bination of airlines to circle the Pacific.
American Airlines (code AA; %800-904-6000; Airtreks (www.airtreks.com) is one good source
For information on Mexican visa re- www.aa.com; hub Dallas) for multistop tickets.
CONTENTS quirements and the tourist card, see p262. ATA (code ATA; %800-435-9282; www.ata.com; International online booking agencies worth
Travelers under 18 who are not accompa- hub Chicago) a look include CheapTickets (www.cheaptickets
Getting There & Away 266 nied by both their parents may need special Aviacsa (code 6A; %800-284-2272; www.aviacsa.com; .com) and, for students and travelers under the
Entering the Country 266 documentation (see p263). hub Mexico City) age of 26, STA Travel (www.statravel.com).
Air 266 Click Mexicana (code QA; %800-122-5425;
Asia
TRANSPORTATION

TRANSPORTATION
Land 269 www.clickmx.com; hubs Cancún & Mexico City)
River 270
AIR
Most visitors to the Yucatán arrive by air. Air Continental Airlines (code CO; %800-900-5000; From Asia you normally have to make a
Sea 270 www.continental.com; hub Houston) connection in the USA or Canada (often Los
routes are structured so that virtually all inter-
Getting Around 270 Cubana (code CU; %52-5250-6355; www.cubana.co.cu; Angeles, San Francisco or Vancouver), and
national flights into the region pass through
Air 270 hub Havana) maybe one in Asia as well. From more west-
a handful of ‘hub’ cities: Dallas/Fort Worth,
Bicycle 270 Delta Airlines (code DL; %800-123-4710; www.delta erly Asian points such as Bangkok, routes
Houston, Los Angeles, Mexico City, Miami
Boat 271 .com; hub Atlanta) via Europe are also an option.
or New York.
Bus & Colectivo 271 Frontier Airlines (code F9; %in the USA 800-432- No 1 Travel (%03-3205-6073; www.no1-travel.com)
Car & Motorcycle 272 1359; www.frontierairlines.com; hub Denver) Good Japanese option.
Hitchhiking 275 Airports & Airlines LTU (code LT; %in Germany 211-9418-333; www.ltu.de; STA Travel Bangkok (%2236-0262; www.statravel
Tours 275 The majority of flights into the peninsula ar- hub Dusseldorf ) .co.th); Hong Kong (%2736-1618; www.statravel.com.hk);
Trains 275 rive at busy Aeropuerto Internacional de Cancún Mexicana de Aviación (code MX; %800-801-2010; Singapore (%6737-7188; www.statravel.com.sg);
(CUN; %998-886-0047; www.cancun-airport.com). The www.mexicana.com; hub Mexico City) Tokyo (%03-5391-2922; www.statravel.co.jp) STA
GETTING THERE & AWAY region’s other gateways are Cozumel airport
(CZM; %987-872-2081; www.asur.com.mx); Chetumal
TACA Airlines (code TA; %800-400-8222; www.taca.com;
hub San Salvador)
proliferates in Asia.

(CTM; %983-832-0898), Mérida (MID; %999-946-1530; US Airways (code US; %800-428-4322; www.usairways Australia & New Zealand
ENTERING THE COUNTRY www.asur.com.mx) and Campeche (CPE).
Mexican immigration officers usually won’t .com; hub Philadelphia) The cheapest routes are usually via the USA
keep you waiting any longer than it takes to Mexico’s two flag airlines are Mexicana (normally Los Angeles). You’re normally
flick through your passport and enter your and Aeroméxico. Formerly state-controlled, Tickets looking at A$2300 or NZ$2300 or more,
length of stay on your tourist card. Stay pa- Mexicana was bought by Grupo Posadas, The cost of flying to the Yucatán is usually round-trip (plus several hundred dollars
tient and polite, even if the procedure takes Mexico’s biggest hotel company, in 2005, and higher around Christmas and New Year, and extra at high season).
some time to complete. Anyone traveling to Aeroméxico was sold to Banamex in 2007. during July and August. Also, weekends can The following are well-known agents
Mexico via the USA should be sure to check Their safety records are comparable to major be more costly than weekdays. During US for cheap fares, with branches throughout
US visa and passport requirements. US and European airlines. spring break (roughly mid-March to mid- both countries:
Flights, tours and train tickets can all be April) Cancún attracts swarms of college stu- Flight Centre Australia (%133-133; www.flightcentre
booked online at www.lonelyplanet.com AIRLINES FLYING TO/FROM THE YUCATÁN dents and inexpensive fares vanish months in .com.au); New Zealand (%0800-243-544; www.flight
/travel_services. Aeroméxico (code AM; %800-021-4010; www.aero advance. In addition to websites and ticket centre.co.nz)
mexico.com; hub Mexico City); Campeche (%981-823-4044); agents such as those recommended follow- STA Travel Australia (%134-782; www.statravel.com.au);
Cancún (%998-287-1868); Mérida (%999-920-1293) ing, it’s often worth checking the airlines’ New Zealand (%0800-474-400; www.statravel.co.nz)
Passport own websites for special deals. Newspapers,
All international travelers – including Canadian magazines and websites serving Mexican For online fares try www.travel.com.au or www
and US nationals – will need a valid passport to THINGS CHANGE… communities in other countries are also good .zuji.com from Australia, and www.travel.co.nz
enter the country, whether they enter by land, sources. Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) has or www.zuji.co.nz from New Zealand.
The information in this chapter is particu-
air or sea. These passport requirements were good links, too.
larly vulnerable to change. Check directly
recently implemented. For full details, visit the On flights to and within Mexico, children Canada
with the airline or a travel agent to make
US State Department website (www.travel.state.gov). under two generally travel for 10% of the Montreal, Toronto and Vancouver all have
sure you understand how a fare (and ticket
In Mexico you will often need your pass- adult fare, as long as they do not occupy direct flights to Mexico, though better deals
you may buy) works, and be aware of the se-
port if you change money or you may be a seat, and those aged two to 11 normally are often available with a change of flight in
curity requirements for international travel,
asked to show it when you check into a hotel. pay 67%. the US. Round-trip fares from Toronto start
especially if traveling via the USA. Shop
Make sure it is valid for at least six months If the Yucatán is part of a trip encom- around C$900 to Cancún. Travel Cuts (%866-
carefully. The details given in this chapter
after arriving in Mexico. Before you leave, get passing other countries, the best ticket for 246-9762; www.travelcuts.com) is Canada’s national
should be regarded as pointers and are not
photocopies of the main page of your pass- you may be an open jaw (where you fly student-travel agency. For online bookings
a substitute for your own careful, up-to-date
port as well as your visa and airline tickets in into one place and out of another, cover- try www.kayak.com, www.expedia.ca and
research.
the event the originals are lost or stolen. ing the intervening distance by land), or a www.travelocity.ca.
 268 G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • A i r lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G T H E R E & A W AY • • L a n d 269

Central & South America and Cuba alternative is to fly to Mexico City; another is www.lowestfare.com
There are direct flights to Cancún from to change planes in the USA or Canada. DEPARTURE TAX www.orbitz.com
Guatemala City and Flores (Guatemala), Round-trip fares to Cancún start around A departure tax equivalent to about M$250 www.sta.com (for students and travelers
Havana, Panama City and São Paulo. The €600 to €700. The two budget airlines (LTU is levied on international flights from under 26)
Havana–Cancún flights continue to Mérida. from Dusseldorf and Jetair from Brussels) Mexico. It’s usually included in the price of www.travelocity.com
Round-trip fares start around M$5000 from can save you a couple of hundred euros if you your ticket, but if it isn’t, you must pay in
Guatemala City and M$8000 to M$10,000 chose your dates carefully. cash during airport check-in. Ask your travel LAND
from South America. For online bookings throughout Europe, agent in advance. Border Crossings
It is illegal for US nationals to visit Cuba, try www.opodo.com or www.ebookers.com. Mexico can be entered from the USA at
in most circumstances. However, many US around 40 official road-crossing points.
visitors visit Cuba through Cancún. If you CONTINENTAL EUROPE Kilroy Travels (www.kilroytravels.com) Covers Scandinavia. Crossing the Mexico–Belize border at
TRANSPORTATION

Rumbo (%902-123-999; www.rumbo.es) Spanish.

TRANSPORTATION
chose to do this, ensure you get an entry France the southern tip of Quintana Roo is easy
stamp on a piece of paper (and not in your Nouvelles Frontières (%08-25-00-07-47; for most tourists. Although there have been
passport); otherwise the US authorities will www.nouvelles-frontieres.fr) UK isolated reports of authorities requiring a
not be impressed. OTU Voyages (%01-55-82-32-33; www.otu.fr) A Flight advertisements appear in the minimum 72-hour stay in Belize, official
Recommended ticket agencies include the student and youth travel specialist. travel pages of the weekend broadsheet word is that day visitors are welcome, and
following: Voyageurs du Monde (%08-92-234-834; newspapers, in Time Out, the Evening there are no special fees for such a visit; see
Asatej (%011-4114-7595; www.asatej.com) In www.vdm.com) Standard and free online magazine TNT boxed text, p146.
Argentina. (www.tntmagazine.com). An old bridge on the Río Hondo at the
Germany An excellent place to start your inquiries town of Subteniente López, 8km southwest of
IVI Tours (%0212-993-6082; www.ividivenezuela.com) is Journey Latin America (%020-8747-3108; www
Expedia (www.expedia.de) Chetumal, marks the official crossing point.
In Venezuela.
Just Travel (%089-747-3330; www.justtravel.de) .journeylatinamerica.co.uk), which offers a variety of At the time of writing, each person leaving
Student Travel Bureau (%11-3038-1555; www.stb tours as well as flights. Other recommended Belize for Mexico needed to pay a departure
STA Travel (%069-743-032-92; www.statravel.de) For
.com.br) In Brazil. agencies include the following: tax of M$100 and an ‘environment tax’ of
travelers aged under 26.
Viajo.com (www.viajo.com) Online and phone bookings Flight Centre (%0870-499-0040; www.flightcentre M$37.50 at the border. An additional M$42.50
from several countries. .co.uk) is charged for fumigation of private vehicles.
Other Countries
Airfair (%0900-771-7717; www.airfair.nl) Dutch. Flightbookers (%0871-223-5000; www.ebookers.com) All fees must be paid in cash (in Belizean or
Europe CTS Viaggi (%199-501-150; www.cts.it) Italian STA Travel (%0871-230-0040; www.statravel.co.uk) US currency), and officials usually won’t have
There are few direct flights to Cancún; airlines specialist in student and youth travel. For travelers under the age of 26. change for US currency. For Mexican entry
that do so include Aeroméxico and LTU. One eDreams (%902-422-433; www.edreams.es) Spanish. Travelbag (%0800-804-8911; www.travelbag.co.uk) requirements, see p262.

USA Bus
CLIMATE CHANGE & TRAVEL From the USA you can fly to airports on Buses run between Chetumal (Quintana
Climate change is a serious threat to the ecosystems that humans rely upon, and air travel is the the Yucatán Peninsula nonstop or with Roo) and Belize City (M$100, four hours).
fastest-growing contributor to the problem. Lonely Planet regards travel, overall, as a global ben- just one stop from several US cities. If Novelo’s Bus Line (%in Belize City 227-2025) runs
efit, but believes we all have a responsibility to limit our personal impact on global warming. you’re lucky you can get round-trip fares around 20 buses a day on this route passing
to Cancún for as low as US$250. If you’re through the Belizean towns of Corozal and
Flying & Climate Change not so lucky, ‘budget’ operators can cost as Orange Walk.
Pretty much every form of motorized travel generates CO2 (the main cause of human-induced much as other airlines. For current bargain There are a few daily buses between Flores,
climate change) but planes are far and away the worst offenders, not just because of the sheer offers, check Airfare Watchdog (www.airfarewatch Guatemala, and Chetumal (M$290, seven to
distances they allow us to travel, but because they release greenhouse gases high into the at- dog.com). Some typical discounted low-season eight hours), via Belize City, run by Línea
mosphere. The statistics are frightening: two people taking a return flight between Europe and fares to Cancún include: Chicago (US$350), Dorada (%in Flores 7926-0070) and San Juan Travel
the US will contribute as much to climate change as an average household’s gas and electricity Los Angeles (US$400), Miami (US$350) (%in Flores 7926-0041).
consumption over a whole year. and New York (US$450). In high season
you may have to pay an additional US$100 Car & Motorcycle
Carbon Offset Schemes to US$200. Driving a car into Mexico is most useful for
Climatecare.org and other websites use ‘carbon calculators’ that allow travelers to offset the San Francisco is the ticket consolidator travelers who:
level of greenhouse gases they are responsible for with financial contributions to sustainable (discounter) capital of the USA, but good like to get off the beaten track;
travel schemes that reduce global warming – including projects in India, Honduras, Kazakhstan deals can also be found in other big cities. have surfboards, kayaks, diving equipment
and Uganda. The following agencies are recommended or other cumbersome luggage;
Lonely Planet, together with Rough Guides and other concerned partners in the travel industry, for online bookings. They offer competitive will be traveling with other companions.
supports the carbon offset scheme run by climatecare.org. Lonely Planet offsets all of its staff fares year-round, if you book ahead.
and author travel. www.cheaptickets.com You can check the full requirements for
For more information check out our website: www.lonelyplanet.com. www.expedia.com bringing a vehicle into Mexico with the
www.kayak.com American Automobile Association (AAA; www.aaa.com),
 270 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • A i r lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • B o a t 271

Sanborn’s (%800-222-0158; www.sanbornsinsurance P&O Cruises (%415-382-8900; www.pocruises.com) The tropical sun can be brutal, but at least
.com), a Mexican consulate or Mexican tour- Princess Cruises (%800-774-6237; www.princess.com) the roads are mostly flat. If you’re bringing DOMESTIC DEPARTURE TAX
ist information (in the USA and Canada Royal Caribbean International (%800-398-9813; your own bike to tour, be prepared to han- There are two taxes on domestic flights:
%800-446-3942, %800-482-9832). www.royalcaribbean.com) dle your own repairs. IVA, the value-added tax (15%), and TUA,
For information on driving and motorcy- For details on bike rental, see p68. an airport tax of about M$85. In Mexico,
cling around the Yucatán, see p272.

INSURANCE
GETTING AROUND Purchase
Of course it’s possible to purchase a bicycle
the taxes are normally included in quoted
fares and paid when you buy the ticket. If
you bought the ticket outside of Mexico,
It is very foolish to drive in Mexico with- AIR in the Yucatán. Indeed, if you plan on staying though, you will have to pay the TUA when
out Mexican liability insurance. If you are Airlines in the Yucatán on the peninsula for months and want to get you check-in in Mexico.
involved in an accident, you can be jailed Flights from other parts of Mexico arrive at around by bike or at least exercise on one,
TRANSPORTATION

TRANSPORTATION
and have your vehicle impounded while re- the airports of Campeche, Mérida, Cancún, purchasing isn’t a bad option, as there are
sponsibility and restitution is assessed. Cozumel, Playa del Carmen, Ciudad del many inexpensive models available in the big 1ST CLASS
Carmen and Chetumal. Another useful cities. A good place to pick up a cheap bike is On primera (1a) clase (1st-class) buses, stand-
RIVER gateway for the region is Tuxtla Gutiérrez, the duty-free Zona Libre between Belize and ards of comfort are adequate at the very least.
From Flores, Guatemala you can take which services San Cristóbal de Las Casas in Mexico; see p147. The buses usually have air-con and a toilet
the Río Usumacinta route to Palenque or Chiapas. For details, see the Getting There and they stop infrequently. They always show
Yaxchilán, in Chiapas, Mexico. Several daily & Away sections of those cities. BOAT movies (often bad ones, unless Jean Claude
2nd-class buses run from Flores to Bethel Aeroméxico and Mexicana are the coun- Ferries run from the mainland to Isla Mujeres Van Damme is your idea of cinematic glory)
(M$40, four hours), on the Guatemalan bank try’s two major airlines. There are also (p95), Isla Cozumel (p117) and Isla Holbox for most of the trip.
of the Usumacinta. The 40-minute boat trip numerous smaller ones, often cheaper and (p98). Bring a sweater or jacket to combat over-
from Bethel to Frontera Corozal, Mexico, providing service between provincial cities. zealous air-conditioning. As with deluxe
costs M$75 to M$133 per person; an alter- The US Federal Aviation Administration BUS & COLECTIVO buses, you buy your ticket in the bus station
native is to take a bus from Flores that con- considers Mexico to be in compliance with The Yucatán Peninsula has a good road and before boarding.
tinues through Bethel to La Técnica (M$50, international aviation safety standards. bus network, and comfortable, frequent, rea-
five to six hours), from where it’s only a Each of the following has domestic flights sonably priced bus services connect all cit- 2ND CLASS
M$15, five-minute river crossing to Frontera within the Yucatán. ies. Most cities and towns have one main bus Segunda (2a) clase (2nd-class) buses serve
Corozal. Vans run from Frontera Corozal Aeromar (code BQ; %800-237-6627; www.aeromar terminal where all long-distance buses arrive small towns and villages, and provide cheaper,
to Palenque (M$60, three hours, 10 daily). .com.mx) Also services central Mexico, west, northeast and and depart. It may be called the Terminal de slower travel on some intercity routes. A few
From Frontera Corozal, it’s well worth first the Gulf Coast. Autobuses, Central de Autobuses, Central are almost as quick, comfortable and di-
detouring to the outstanding Maya ruins at Aeroméxico (code AM; %800-021-4010; Camionera or simply La Central (not to be rect as 1st-class buses. Others are old, slow
Yaxchilán. Travel agencies in Palenque and www.aeromexico.com) More than 50 cities nationwide. confused with el centro, the city center!). If and shabby.
Flores offer bus-boat-bus packages between Aviacsa (code 6A; %800-284-2272; www.aviacsa.com) there is no single main terminal, different Many 2nd-class services have no ticket of-
the two places from around M$300. Services 20 cities around the country. bus companies will have separate terminals fice; you just pay your fare to the conductor.
Click Mexicana (code QA; %800-122-5425; scattered around town. These buses tend to take slow, nontoll roads
SEA www.clickmx.com) Connections to Veracruz, Guadalajara, Baggage is safe if stowed in the bus’s bag- in and out of big cities and will stop anywhere
The cruise ship–vehicle ferry between Tampa Toluca and other cities around the country. gage hold, but get a receipt for it when you to pick up passengers: if you board midroute
(Florida) and Progreso, in Yucatán state, is Interjet (%800-011-2345; www.interjet.com.mx) hand it over. Keep your valuables (pass- you might make some of the trip standing.
no longer operating. Services to Toluca, Guadalajara and Monterrey. port, money etc) on you, and keep them The small amount of money you save by
There are several ports-of-call in the re- Magnicharters (%in Cancún 800-201-1404; closely protected. traveling 2nd class is not usually worth the
gion, including Puerto Morelos, Calica (south www.magnicharters.com.mx) Mexico City, Guadalajara, Highway robbery happens very occasion- discomfort or extra journey time entailed,
of Playa del Carmen) and Progreso. The Monterrey, León and San Luis Potosí. ally, usually at night, on isolated stretches of though traveling on these buses is a great way
Costa Maya port in Mahahual was destroyed Mexicana de Aviación (code MX; %800-400-8222; highway. See p252 for details. to meet locals and see less-traveled parts of
by Hurricane Dean, but there are plans to www.mexicana.com) More than 50 cities nationwide. the countryside.
rebuild it. Volaris (%800-786-5274; www.volaris.com.mx) Toluca, Classes Second-class buses can also be less safe
Following are some of the cruise lines visit- Guadalajara, León and Monterrey. DELUXE than 1st-class or deluxe buses, for reasons
ing Mexico, with US phone numbers: De lujo (deluxe) services, sometimes termed of maintenance, driver standards, or because
Carnival Cruise Lines (%888-227-6482; BICYCLE ejecutivo (executive), run mainly on the busy they are more vulnerable to being boarded
www.carnival.com) Cycling on the peninsula’s highways can be routes. They are swift, modern and comfort- by bandits on quiet roads. Out in the remoter
Crystal Cruises (%800-804-1500; www.crystal hair-raising because of the narrow shoulders able, with reclining seats, adequate legroom, areas, however, you’ll often find that 2nd-class
cruises.com) and speeding traffic. Many routes see a lot air-con, few or no stops, toilets on board buses are the only buses available.
Holland America Line (%877-724-5425; of local bicycle traffic, but on some of them (but not necessarily toilet paper), and some- Microbuses or ‘micros’ are small, usually
www.hollandamerica.com) you’ll often see cyclists, pedestrians and times drinks or snacks. Deluxe buses usu- fairly new, 2nd-class buses with around 25
Norwegian Cruise Lines (%800-327-7030; even dogs step off the pavement and wait ally show movies on video screens, and may seats, often running short routes between
www.ncl.com) by the side of the road until traffic passes. offer headphones. nearby towns.
 272 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • C a r & M o t o r c y c l e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • D r i v i n g D i s t a n c e s 273

Costs CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Isla
Contoy

Chinchorro
First-class buses typically cost around M$40 Driving in Mexico is not as easy as it is

Cancún
69

Cozumel

CARIBBEAN
per hour of travel (70km to 80km). Deluxe north of the border, and rentals are more

Banco
Playa del

Isla
Carmen
Chiquilá
buses may cost just 10% or 20% more than expensive, but having your own vehicle gives

307
MEX
97
Holbox

SEA
Isla

Punta
1st class, or about 60% more for superdeluxe

Allen
you extra flexibility and freedom.

Mahahual
63
57
services such as UNO. Second-class buses Drivers should know some Spanish and 73

Tulum
42
cost 10% or 20% less than 1st class. Children have basic mechanical knowledge, reserves
43

Xcalak
Nuevo
Xcan
under 13 pay half-price on many Mexican of patience and access to extra cash for

35
58

Carrillo
31

95
60

Puerto
Felipe
Cobá
long-distance buses, and, if they’re small emergencies. Good makes of car to drive

Cafetal

CHETUMAL
Chemax
enough to sit on your lap, they will usually in Mexico are Volkswagen, Nissan, General

28

307
MEX
68
go for free. Motors, Chrysler and Ford, which have plants

Río
Lagartos

7
52

Tizimín
51

14
295
TRANSPORTATION

MEX

TRANSPORTATION
Valladolid
in Mexico and dealers in most big towns.

58

BELIZE
Reservations Very big cars are unwieldy on narrow roads.
65

Quintana
For trips of up to four or five hours on busy

Polyuc
A sedan with a trunk (boot) provides safer

Roo
routes, you can usually just go to the bus storage than a station wagon or hatchback.

160

186
MEX
Yucatán
terminal, buy a ticket and head out without Mexican mechanics are resourceful, and most
much delay. For longer trips, or routes with repairs can be done quickly and inexpen-

123
141
180
MEX
infrequent service, buy a ticket a day or more sively, but it still pays to take some spare
in advance. Deluxe and 1st-class bus compa- parts (spare fuel filters are very useful). Tires

MÉRIDA

184
MEX
nies have computerized ticket systems that (including a spare), shock absorbers and sus-

Ticul

Xpujil
179
allow you to select your seat when you buy

Hopelchén
pension should be in good condition. For 33
your ticket. security, have something to immobilize the

Progreso

56
54

GUATEMALA
Seats on deluxe and 1st-class lines such as steering wheel.

Campeche
65

Conhuas
UNO, ADO and OCC can be booked through Motorcycling in Mexico is not for the

Maxcanú
92
Ticket Bus (%800-702-8000; www.ticketbus.com.mx), a fainthearted. Roads and traffic can be rough, 4

96
11

82
reservations service with offices in Mérida, and parts and mechanics hard to come by.

CAMPECHE
180
MEX
Cancún, Cozumel, Campeche and Ciudad

Champotón
The parts you’ll most easily find will be for

186
MEX
Celestún
del Carmen. Kawasaki, Honda and Suzuki bikes. Helmets
If you pay for a bus ticket in cash, cash are required by Mexican law. 84

261
MEX
66

Escárcega
refunds of 80% to 100% are available from

Frontera

180
GUATEMALA

MEX
Escárcega

Corozal
many bus companies if you return your Fuel

Campeche
16
ticket more than an hour or two before the All gasolina (gasoline) and diesel fuel in

Bonampak
departure time. Mexico is sold by the government-owned

7
16

14
Campeche
Bahía de
San Javier
Pemex (Petróleos Mexicanos). Most towns,
Combi, Colectivo & Truck even small ones, have a Pemex gas station,

Ciudad del
Carmen
On much of the peninsula, a variety of and the stations are pretty common on most

Ciudad del
Carmen

0
other vehicles, often Volkswagen, Ford or major roads. In remote areas you should fill

14

Catazajá
Palenque
Catazajá
Chevrolet vans, operates shuttle services be- up whenever you can.

Ocosingo
tween some towns, especially on short-haul The gasoline on sale is all sin plomo (un-

190
MEX
routes and those linking rural settlements. leaded). There are two varieties: magna sin, 20

180
MEX
109
These vehicles usually leave whenever they
95
roughly equivalent to US regular unleaded,

98
are full. Fares are typically a little less than and premium, roughly equivalent to US super

VILLAHERMOSA
180

San Cristóbal
MEX

80 de Las Casas
1st-class buses. Combi is often used as a

125
unleaded. At the time of research, magna sin

186
MEX
catch-all term for these services regardless cost about M$6.70 per liter, and premium

Frontera
DRIVING DISTANCES

180
MEX
186
Frontera

MEX
of van type, as is taxi colectivo (shared taxi) about M$7.50. Diesel fuel is widely available at 180
or simply colectivo. around M$5 per liter. Regular Mexican diesel

VILLAHERMOSA
Chiapas

Mexico
Gulf of
More basic than the combis are passenger- has a higher sulfur content than US diesel, but 48

GUTIÉRREZ

- Driving distances are in kilometers

TUXTLA

Paraíso
carrying camiones (trucks) and camionetas there is a ‘diesel sin’ with less sulfur.
Paraíso

Comalcalco
20
Comalcalco

(pickups), usually with benches lining the Pump attendants at gas stations appreciate
sides. Standing in the back of a lurching
Tabasco

a tip of M$2 to M$5.

Bahía de Campeche

See Inset sbove

Tabasco
truck with a couple of dozen campesinos
(farm workers) and their machetes and Maps
MEXICO

animals is at least an experience to re- Mexican signposting can be poor and decent

NOTE:
member. Fares are similar to 2nd-class road maps are essential. See p256 for more
bus fares. information on maps.
 274 G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • C a r & M o t o r c y c l e lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com G E T T I N G A R O U N D • • H i t c h h i k i n g 275

Rental advisable to look particularly carefully into parking, it’s best to find a commercial esta- and get a receipt, then if you wish to make a
Auto rental in the Yucatán is expensive by US insurance arrangements here: some renters cionamiento (parking lot). These usually cost complaint head for a state tourist office.
or European standards, but is not hard to or- do not offer any insurance at all. Note that a around M$50 overnight and M$10 per hour
ganize. You can book by internet, phone or in locally acquired motorcycle license is not valid during the day. HITCHHIKING
person and pick up cars at city offices, airports under some travel insurance policies. Hitchhiking is never entirely safe in any coun-
and many of the big hotels. You’ll save money TOLL ROADS try in the world, and is not recommended.
by booking ahead of time over the internet. Road Conditions There are three major toll roads, mostly four- Travelers who decide to hitch should under-
Renters must provide a valid driver’s license Many Mexican highways, even some toll lane, in the Yucatán that connect the major stand that they are taking a small but poten-
(your home license is OK), passport and major highways, are not up to the standards of US, cities. They are generally in much better con- tially serious risk. People who do choose to
credit card, and are usually required to be at Canadian or European ones. Still, the main dition and a lot quicker than the alternative hitch will be safer if they travel in pairs and
least 21 (sometimes 25, or if you’re aged 21 roads are serviceable and fairly fast when traf- free roads. Cuotas (tolls) average about M$10 let someone know where they are planning to
TRANSPORTATION

TRANSPORTATION
to 24 you may have to pay a surcharge). Read fic is not heavy. Mexicans are not such reckless per 10km. go. A woman traveling alone certainly should
the small print of the rental agreement. In ad- drivers as they are often supposed to be, and not hitchhike in Mexico, and even two women
dition to the basic rental rate, you pay tax and are certainly no worse than their counterparts Road Rules together is not advisable.
insurance to the rental company, and the full in southern Europe. Traffic density, poor sur- Drive on the right-hand side of the road. However, some people do choose to
insurance that rental companies encourage can faces and frequent hazards (potholes, speed One-way streets are the rule in cities. hitchhike, and it’s not an uncommon way of
almost double the basic cost. You’ll usually have bumps, animals, bicycles and children) all Priority at street intersections is indicated by getting to some of the off-the-beaten-track
the option of taking liability-only insurance at help to keep speeds down. thin black and red rectangles containing white archaeological sites and other places that tend
a lower rate, about M$100 per day. Ask exactly Driving on a dark night is best avoided arrows. A black rectangle facing you means to be poorly served by bus. Keep your wits
what the insurance options cover: theft and since unlit vehicles, rocks, pedestrians and you have priority; a red one means you don’t. about you and don’t accept a lift if you have
damage insurance may only cover a percent- animals on the roads are common. Also, The white arrows indicate the direction of any misgivings.
age of costs. It’s best to have plenty of liability hijacks and robberies do occur. traffic on the cross street; if the arrow points In Mexico it’s customary for the hitchhiker
coverage: Mexican law permits the jailing of In towns and cities and on rural roads, both ways, it’s a two-way street. to offer to pay for the ride, especially if the
drivers after an accident until they have met be especially wary of Alto (Stop) signs, topes Speed limits range between 80km/h and ride is in a work or commercial vehicle. As a
their obligations to third parties. The compli- (speed bumps) and holes in the road. They 120km/h on open highways (less when general rule, offer about M$10 per person for
mentary car-rental insurance offered with some are often not where you’d expect, and missing highways pass through built-up areas), and every 30 minutes of the ride but not less than
US credit cards does not always cover Mexico. one can cost you a traffic fine or car damage. between 30km/h and 50km/h in towns and M$20 total and never more than M$100.
Call your card company ahead of time. Speed bumps are also used to slow traffic on cities. Seat belts are obligatory for all occu-
Most rental agencies offer a choice between highways that pass through built-up areas: pants of a car, and children under five must TOURS
a per-kilometer deal or unlimited kilometers. they are not always signed, and some of them be strapped into safety seats in the rear. Traffic For details on tours offered by locally based
Local firms may or may not be cheaper than are severe! laws and speed limits rarely seem to be en- operators, check the destination chapters. Big
the big international ones. In most places the forced on the highways. Obey the rules in the international operations also offer trips in
cheapest car available (often a Volkswagen BREAKDOWN ASSISTANCE cities so you don’t give the police an excuse to the region.
Beetle) costs M$250 to M$500 a day includ- The Mexican tourism ministry, Sectur, main- demand a ‘fine’ payable on the spot. Gap Adventures (%in the US & Canada 800-708-7761;
ing unlimited kilometers, insurance and tax. tains a network of Ángeles Verdes (Green Although less frequent in the Yucatán, www.gapadventures.com)
If you rent by the week or month, the per-day Angels) – bilingual mechanics in green uni- there is always the chance that you will be Intrepid Travel (%in the US 800-970-7299; www
cost can come down by 20% to 40%. You can forms and green trucks, who patrol 60,000km pulled over by traffic police for an imaginary .intrepidtravel.com)
also cut costs by avoiding airport pickups and of major highways throughout the country infraction. If this happens, stay calm and po- Journey Latin America (%in the UK 020-8747-8315;
drop-offs, for which 10% can be added to your daily during daylight hours looking for tour- lite and don’t be in a hurry. You don’t have to www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk)
total check. The extra charge for drop-off in ists in trouble. They make minor repairs, pay a bribe, and corrupt cops would rather not
another city, when available, is usually about change tires, provide fuel and oil, and ar- work too hard to obtain one. You can also ask TRAINS
M$4 per kilometer. range towing and other assistance if neces- to see documentation about the law you have Espreso Maya (%999-944-9393; www.expresomaya.com)
Some major firms in Mexico: sary. Service is free; parts, gasoline and oil are supposedly broken, ask for the officer’s iden- was the last train service operating in the re-
Alamo (%800-849-8001; www.alamo.com) provided at cost. If you are near a telephone tification, ask to speak to a superior, and/or gion, but it is not currently offering service as
Avis (%800-288-8888; www.avis.com.mx) when your car has problems, you can call its note the officer’s name, badge number, vehicle the rails are being repaired. The high-end trips
Budget (%800-700-1700; www.budget.com.mx) 24-hour hotline (%078) or contact the network number and department (federal, state or mu- ran from Palenque to Dzitás (near Chichén
Dollar (%998-886-0222; www.dollar.com) through the national 24-hour tourist-assistance nicipal). Pay any traffic fines at a police station Itzá) and to various stops in Yucatán state.
Europcar (%800-201-2084; www.europcar.com.mx) service (%800-903-9200) in Mexico City. There’s
Hertz (%800-709-5000; www.hertz.com) a map of the roads it patrols at www.sectur.gob
National (%800-716-6625; www.nationalcar.com.mx) .mx/wb2/sectur/sect_9454_rutas_carreteras
Thrifty (%55-5786-8268; www.thrifty.com.mx) (in Spanish).

Motorcycles or scooters are available for rent CITY PARKING

in a few tourist centers. You’re usually required It’s not usually a good idea to park on the
to have a driver’s license and credit card. It’s street overnight. If your hotel doesn’t have
 276 lonelyplanet.com I N T R A N S I T • • D e e p Ve i n T h r o m b o s i s ( D V T ) 277

MEDICAL CHECKLIST because of prolonged immobility. The longer

Health Dr David Goldberg

Antibiotics
Antidiarrheal drugs (eg loperamide)
Acetaminophen/paracetamol (Tylenol) or
the flight, the greater the risk. Though most
blood clots are reabsorbed uneventfully, some
may break off and travel through the blood
aspirin vessels to the lungs, where they could cause
but make sure the policy includes such Anti-inflammatory drugs (eg ibuprofen) complications that are life-threatening.
CONTENTS things as ambulances and emergency flights Antihistamines (for hay fever and aller- The chief symptom of DVT is swelling or
home. Some US health insurance policies gic reactions) pain of the foot, ankle or calf, usually but not
Before You Go 276 stay in effect (at least for a limited time) if Antibacterial ointment (eg Bactroban) always on just one side. When a blood clot
Insurance 276 you travel abroad, but it’s worth checking for cuts and abrasions travels to the lungs, it may cause chest pain
Vaccinations 276 exactly what you’ll be covered for in Mexico. Adhesive or paper tape and difficulty breathing. Travelers with any
Medical Checklist 277 For people whose medical insurance or na- Bandages, gauze, gauze rolls of these symptoms should immediately seek
Internet Resources 277 tional health systems don’t extend to Mexico DEET-containing insect repellent for the medical attention.
Further Reading 277 (which includes most non-Americans) a skin To prevent the development of DVT on
In Transit 277 travel policy is advisable. Check the website Iodine tablets (for water purification) long flights you should walk about the cabin,
Deep Vein Thrombosis (DVT) 277 of Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com/travel _services) Oral rehydration salts perform isometric compressions of the leg
Jet Lag & Motion Sickness 277 for more information. Permethrin-containing insect spray for muscles (ie contract the leg muscles while sit-
In Mexico 277 You may prefer a policy that pays medical clothing, tents and bed nets ting), drink plenty of fluids, and avoid alcohol
Availability & Cost of Health Care 277 costs directly rather than requiring you to Pocket knife and tobacco.
Infectious Diseases 278 pay on the spot and claim later. If you have Scissors, safety pins, tweezers
Travelers’ Diarrhea 280
Environmental Hazards & Treatment 280
to claim later, keep all documentation. Some Steroid cream or cortisone (for poison JET LAG & MOTION SICKNESS
policies ask you to call collect to a center in ivy and other allergic rashes) Jet lag is common when crossing more than
Travelers to the Yucatán need to be careful your home country, where an immediate as- Sunscreen five time zones, resulting in insomnia, fa-
chiefly about food- and water-borne diseases, sessment of your problem is made. Some poli- Syringes and sterile needles (with doctor’s tigue, malaise or nausea. To avoid jet lag
though mosquito-borne infections can also cies offer lower and higher medical-expense letter) try drinking plenty of nonalcoholic fluids
HEALTH

HEALTH
be a problem. Most of these illnesses are not options; the higher ones are chiefly for coun- Thermometer and eating light meals. Upon arrival, get
life threatening, but they can certainly im- tries such as the USA, which have extremely exposure to natural sunlight and readjust
pact on your trip. Besides getting the proper high medical costs. There is a wide variety of INTERNET RESOURCES your schedule (for meals, sleep etc) as soon
vaccinations, it’s important that you bring a policies; check the small print. There is a wealth of travel health advice on the as possible.
good insect repellent. internet. For further information, the website of Antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate
VACCINATIONS Lonely Planet (www.lonelyplanet.com) is a good place (Dramamine) and meclizine (Antivert,
The only required vaccination for Mexico to start. The World Health Organization pub- Bonine) are usually the first choice for treat-
BEFORE YOU GO is yellow fever, and that’s only if you’re ar-
riving from a yellow fever–infected coun-
lishes a superb book called International Travel
and Health, which is revised annually and is
ing motion sickness. Their main side effect
is drowsiness. A herbal alternative is ginger,
Since most vaccines don’t produce immu- try in Africa or South America (including available online at no cost at www.who.int/ith. which works like a charm for some people.
nity until at least two weeks after they’re Guatemala). However, a number of vaccines Another website of general interest is MD Travel
given, visit a physician four to eight weeks are recommended: see table below. Rabies Health (www.mdtravelhealth.com), which provides
before departure. Ask your doctor for an
International Certificate of Vaccination,
injections are only recommended for those
who may have contact with animals and
complete travel health recommendations for
every country, updated daily, also at no cost. IN MEXICO
which will list vaccinations you’ve received. won’t have access to immediate health care.
Bring medications in their original con- FURTHER READING AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH CARE
tainers, clearly labeled. A signed, dated letter For further information, see Healthy Travel There are a number of first-rate clinics in
from your physician describing all medical Vaccine Dosage Central & South America, also from Lonely Cancún (p74). In general, private facilities
conditions and medications, including ge- Planet. If you’re traveling with children, Lonely offer better health care, though at greater
neric names, is also a good idea. If carrying hepatitis A 1 dose before trip; booster Planet’s Travel with Children may be useful. cost, than public hospitals. Adequate medi-
6-12 months later cal care is available in other major cities of
syringes or needles, be sure to have a physi- typhoid 4 capsules by mouth,
The ABC of Healthy Travel, by E Walker et
cian’s letter documenting their necessity. al, and Medicine for the Outdoors, by Paul S the region, but facilities in rural areas may
1 taken every other day be limited.
hepatitis B long-term travelers in close Auerbach, are other valuable resources.
INSURANCE contact with the local population;
Many doctors and hospitals expect pay-
Mexican medical treatment is generally in- ment in cash, regardless of whether you have
expensive for common diseases and minor
treatment, but if you suffer some serious
rabies
3 doses over 6-month period
3 doses over 3-4 week period IN TRANSIT travel health insurance. If you develop a life-
threatening medical problem, you’ll prob-
tetanus- 1 dose lasts 10 years
medical problem, you may want to find a diphtheria DEEP VEIN THROMBOSIS (DVT) ably want to be evacuated to a country with
private hospital or fly out for treatment. measles 1 dose Blood clots may form in the legs (deep vein state-of-the-art medical care. Be sure you
Travel insurance typically covers the costs thrombosis) during plane flights, chiefly have insurance to cover this (see opposite).
 278 I N M E X I C O • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I N M E X I C O • • I n fe c t i o u s D i s e a s e s 279

Most cases resolve uneventfully, though hepa- ciprofloxacin (Cipro) or levofloxacin

CHILDREN & PREGNANT WOMEN titis A occasionally causes severe liver damage. (Levaquin), which many travelers carry for
In general, it’s safe for children and pregnant women to go to Mexico. However, because some There is no treatment. treatment of travelers’ diarrhea.
of the vaccines listed earlier are not approved for children and pregnant women, these travel- The vaccine for hepatitis A is extremely safe
ers should be particularly careful not to drink tap water or consume any questionable food or and highly effective. If you get a booster six to Rabies
beverage. Also, when traveling with children, make sure they’re up to date on all routine immu- 12 months later, it lasts for at least 10 years. Rabies is a viral infection of the brain and
nizations. It’s sometimes appropriate to give children some of their vaccines a little early before You should get it before you go to Mexico. spinal cord that is almost always fatal with-
visiting a developing nation. You should discuss this with your pediatrician. If pregnant, bear in Because the safety of hepatitis A vaccine has out treatment. The rabies virus is carried in
mind that should a complication such as premature labor develop while abroad, the quality of not been established for pregnant women or the saliva of infected animals and is typically
medical care may not be comparable to that in your home country. children aged under two, they should instead transmitted through an animal bite, though
Since yellow-fever vaccine is not recommended for pregnant women or children less than nine be given a gammaglobulin injection. contamination of any break in the skin with
months old, if you are arriving from a country with yellow fever, obtain a waiver letter, preferably infected saliva may result in rabies. Rabies oc-
written on letterhead stationery and bearing the stamp used by official immunization centers to Hepatitis B curs in all Central American countries. Most
validate the International Certificate of Vaccination. Like hepatitis A, hepatitis B is a liver infection cases in Mexico are related to dog bites, but
that occurs worldwide but is more common bats and other wild species remain sources
in developing nations. Unlike hepatitis A, the of infection.
Mexican pharmacies are identified by Dengue Fever disease is usually acquired by sexual contact The rabies vaccine is safe, but a full series
a green cross and a ‘Farmacia’ sign. Most Dengue fever is a viral infection found or by exposure to infected blood, generally requires three injections and is quite expen-
are well stocked and the pharmacists well throughout Central America. In Mexico, the through blood transfusions or contaminated sive. Those at high risk of rabies, such as ani-
trained. Reliable pharmacy chains include risk is greatest along the Gulf Coast, especially needles. The vaccine is recommended only mal handlers and spelunkers (cave explorers),
Sanborns, Farmacia Guadalajara, Benavides from July to September. Dengue is transmitted for long-term travelers (on the road more should certainly get the vaccine, as well as
and Farmacia Fenix. To find an after-hours by Aedes mosquitoes, which bite preferen- than six months) who expect to live in rural people traveling to remote areas away from
pharmacy, look in the local newspaper, ask tially during the day and are usually found areas or have close physical contact with the appropriate medical care. The treatment for
your hotel concierge, or check the front close to human habitations, often indoors. local population. Additionally, the vaccine a possibly rabid bite consists of rabies vaccine
door of a local pharmacy, which will often They breed primarily in artificial water con- is recommended for anyone who anticipates with rabies immune globulin. It’s effective, but
HEALTH

HEALTH
post the name of a nearby pharmacy that is tainers, such as barrels, cans, cisterns, metal sexual contact with locals or a possible need must be given promptly.
open after hours. drums, plastic containers and discarded tires. for medical, dental or other treatments while See p281 for what to do if bitten or
As a result, dengue is especially common in abroad, especially if a need for transfusions scratched by an animal.
INFECTIOUS DISEASES urban environments. or injections is expected.
Malaria Dengue usually causes flu-like symptoms, Hepatitis B vaccine is safe and highly ef- Cholera
Malaria occurs in every country in Central including fever, muscle aches, joint pains, fective. However, a total of three injections Cholera is an intestinal infection acquired
America, including parts of Mexico. It’s trans- headaches, nausea and vomiting, often fol- is necessary to establish full immunity. through ingestion of contaminated food or
mitted by mosquito bites, usually between lowed by a rash. The body aches may be Several countries added hepatitis B vaccine water. The main symptom is profuse, watery
dusk and dawn. The main symptom is high quite uncomfortable, but most cases resolve to the list of routine childhood immuniza- diarrhea, which may be so severe that it causes
spiking fevers, which may be accompanied by uneventfully in a few days. Severe cases usu- tions in the 1980s, so many young adults are life-threatening dehydration. The key treat-
chills, sweats, headache, body aches, general ally occur in children under 15 years who are already protected. ment is drinking oral rehydration solution.
weakness, vomiting or diarrhea. Severe cases experiencing their second dengue infection. Antibiotics are also given, usually tetracycline
may involve the central nervous system and There is no specific treatment for den- Typhoid Fever or doxycycline, though quinolone antibiot-
lead to seizures, confusion, coma and death. gue fever, except to take analgesics such as Typhoid fever is caused by ingestion of food or ics, such as ciprofloxacin and levofloxacin
Taking malaria pills is strongly recom- acetaminophen/paracetamol (Tylenol) and water contaminated by Salmonella typhi. Fever are also effective.
mended when visiting rural areas. For Mexico, drink plenty of fluids. Severe cases may re- occurs in virtually all cases. Other symptoms Only a handful of cases have been reported
the first-choice malaria pill is chloroquine, quire hospitalization. There is no vaccine. The may include headache, malaise, muscle aches, in Mexico over the last few years. The cholera
taken once weekly in a dosage of 500mg, start- cornerstone of prevention is insect protection dizziness, loss of appetite, nausea and abdomi- vaccine is no longer recommended.
ing one to two weeks before arrival and con- measures (see p280). nal pain. Either diarrhea or constipation may
tinuing through the trip and for four weeks occur. Possible complications include intesti- Other Infections
after departure. Chloroquine is safe, inexpen- Hepatitis A nal perforation, intestinal bleeding, confusion, Gnathostomiasis is a parasite acquired by
sive and highly effective. Side effects are typi- Hepatitis A occurs throughout Central delirium or (rarely) coma. eating raw or undercooked freshwater fish,
cally mild. Severe reactions are uncommon. America. It’s a viral infection of the liver Unless you expect to take all your meals including ceviche, a popular lime-marinated
Protecting yourself against mosquito bites usually acquired by ingestion of contami- in major hotels and restaurants, the typhoid fish salad. The chief symptom is intermittent,
is just as important as taking malaria pills (see nated water, food or ice, though it may also vaccine is a good idea. It’s usually given orally, migratory swellings under the skin, sometimes
p280), as no pills are 100% effective. be acquired by direct contact with infected but is also available as an injection. Neither associated with joint pains, muscle pains or
If you develop a fever after returning home, persons. The illness occurs worldwide, but vaccine is approved for use for children aged gastrointestinal problems. The symptoms may
see a physician, as malaria symptoms may not the incidence is higher in developing nations. under two. not begin until many months after exposure.
occur for months. It can be diagnosed by a Symptoms may include fever, malaise, jaun- The drug of choice for typhoid fever Leishmaniasis occurs in the mountains and
simple blood test. dice, nausea, vomiting and abdominal pain. is usually a quinolone antibiotic, such as jungles of all Central American countries.
 280 I N M E X I C O • • T r a v e l e r s ’ D i a r r h e a lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com I N M E X I C O • • E n v i r o n m e n t a l H a z a r d s & T re a t m e n t 281

The infection is transmitted by sand flies. skin. Products containing lower concentra- Another option is to disinfect water with Animal Bites
Leishmaniasis may be limited to the skin, caus- tions of DEET are as effective, but for shorter iodine pills. Instructions are usually provided Do not attempt to pet, handle or feed any ani-
ing slowly growing ulcers over exposed parts of periods of time. In general, adults and children and should be carefully followed. Or you can mal, with the exception of domestic animals
the body. The disease may be particularly severe over 12 years should use preparations con- add 2% tincture of iodine to one quart or known to be free of any infectious disease.
in those with HIV. There is no vaccine for leish- taining 25% to 35% DEET, which usually last liter of water (five drops to clear water, 10 Most animal injuries are directly related to a
maniasis. To protect yourself from sand flies, about six hours. Children between two and drops to cloudy water) and let stand for 30 person’s attempt to touch or feed the animal.
follow the same precautions as for mosquitoes 12 years should use preparations containing minutes. If the water is cold, a longer time Any bite or scratch by a mammal, includ-
(below), except that netting must be finer mesh no more than 10% DEET, applied sparingly, may be required. The taste of iodinated water ing bats, should be promptly and thoroughly
(at least 18 holes to the linear inch). which will usually last about three hours. can be improved by adding vitamin C (ascor- cleansed with large amounts of soap and
Brucellosis is an infection occurring in do- Neurological toxicity has been reported from bic acid). Don’t drink iodinated water for water, followed by application of an antisep-
mestic and wild animals that may be transmit- DEET, especially in children, but appears to more than a few weeks. Pregnant women, tic, such as iodine or alcohol. Contact the
ted to humans through direct animal contact be extremely uncommon and generally related those with a history of thyroid disease and local health authorities immediately for pos-
or by consumption of unpasteurized dairy to overuse. Don’t use DEET-containing com- those allergic to iodine should not drink sible postexposure treatment, whether or not
products from infected animals. Symptoms pounds on children under two years. iodinated water. you’ve been immunized against rabies. It may
may include fever, malaise, depression, loss Insect repellents containing certain botani- Numerous water filters are on the market. also be advisable to start an antibiotic, since
of appetite, headache, muscle aches and back cal products, including eucalyptus oil and soy- Those with smaller pores (reverse osmosis wounds caused by animal bites and scratches
pain. Complications can include arthritis, bean oil, are effective but last only 1½ to two filters) provide the best protection, but they frequently become infected. One of the newer
hepatitis, meningitis and endocarditis (heart hours. Where there is a high risk of malaria, are relatively large and are readily plugged quinolones, such as levofloxacin (Levaquin),
valve infection). use DEET-containing repellents. Products by debris. Those with somewhat larger pores which many travelers carry in case of diarrhea,
Typhus may be transmitted by lice in scat- based on citronella are not effective. (microstrainer filters) are ineffective against would be an appropriate choice.
tered pockets of the country. For additional protection, apply permeth- viruses, although they do remove other organ-
HIV/AIDS has been reported in all Central rin to clothing, shoes, tents and bed nets. isms. Manufacturers’ instructions must be SNAKE & SCORPION BITES
American countries. Be sure to use condoms Permethrin treatments are safe and remain carefully followed. Venomous snakes in the Yucatán gener-
for all sexual encounters. effective for at least two weeks, even when ally do not attack without provocation, but
items are laundered. Permethrin should not Sun & Heat may bite humans who accidentally come
TRAVELERS’ DIARRHEA
HEALTH

HEALTH
be applied directly to the skin. To protect yourself from excessive sun ex- too close. Coral snakes are somewhat re-
To prevent diarrhea, avoid tap water unless Don’t sleep with the window open unless posure, you should stay out of the midday tiring and tend not to bite humans unless
it has been boiled, filtered or chemically dis- there is a screen. If sleeping outdoors or in sun, wear sunglasses and a wide-brimmed hat, considerably provoked.
infected (eg by iodine tablets); only eat fresh accommodations that allows entry of mos- and apply sunscreen with SPF 15 or higher, In the event of a venomous snake bite, place
fruits or vegetables if cooked or peeled; be quitoes, use a bed net treated with permeth- providing both UVA and UVB protection. the victim at rest, keep the bitten area immo-
wary of dairy products that might contain un- rin, with edges tucked in under the mattress. Sunscreen should be applied to all exposed bilized and move them immediately to the
pasteurized milk; and be very selective when The mesh size should be less than 1.5mm. parts of the body approximately 30 minutes nearest medical facility. Avoid using tourni-
eating food from street vendors. Alternatively, use a mosquito coil, which before sun exposure and be reapplied after quets, which are no longer recommended.
If you develop diarrhea, be sure to drink will fill the room with insecticide through swimming or vigorous activity. Scorpions are a problem in many states. If
plenty of fluids, preferably an oral rehydration the night. Repellent-impregnated wristbands Drink plenty of fluids and avoid strenu- stung, you should immediately apply ice or
solution containing lots of salt and sugar. A are not effective. ous exercise when the temperature is high. cold packs, immobilize the affected body part
few loose stools don’t require treatment, but Heat exhaustion is characterized by dizzi- and go to the nearest emergency room. To
if you start having more than four or five Tick Bites ness, weakness, headache, nausea or pro- prevent stings, be sure to inspect and shake out
stools a day, you should start taking an anti- To protect yourself from tick bites, follow the fuse sweating. Salt tablets or rehydration clothing, shoes and sleeping bags before use,
biotic (usually a quinolone drug) and an an- same precautions as for mosquitoes, except salts may help, but fluids, rest and shade and wear gloves and protective clothing when
tidiarrheal agent (eg loperamide). If diarrhea that boots are preferable to shoes, with pants are essential. working around piles of wood or leaves.
is bloody or persists for more than 72 hours tucked in. Be sure to perform a thorough tick
or is accompanied by fever, shaking chills check at the end of each day. You’ll generally
or severe abdominal pain, you should seek need the assistance of a friend or mirror for a
medical attention. full examination. Remove ticks with tweezers,
grasping them firmly by the head. Insect re-
ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS & pellents based on botanical products (see left)
TREATMENT have not been adequately studied for insects
Mosquito Bites other than mosquitoes and cannot be recom-
To prevent mosquito bites, wear long sleeves, mended to prevent tick bites.
long pants, hats and shoes (rather than san-
dals). Bring along a good insect repellent, pref- Water
erably one containing DEET, which should be Tap water is generally not safe to drink.
applied to exposed skin and clothing, but not Vigorous boiling for one minute is the most
to the eyes, mouth, cuts, wounds or irritated effective means of water purification.
 282 lonelyplanet.com S PA N I S H • • G e n d e r & P l u r a l s 283

h invariably silent. If your name begins Where is ...?

Language with this letter, listen carefully if

you’re waiting for public officials to
call you.
¿Dónde hay ...?
a cabin/cabana
una cabaña
don·de ai ...

oo·na ca·ba·nya
before you leave home. These resources are j harsh and breathy, as the ‘ch’ in a camping ground
often available for loan from public librar- ‘loch’ (written as ‘kh’ in our guides un área para acampar oon a·re·a pa·ra a·kam·par
ies. Evening or college courses are also an to pronunciation) a guesthouse
CONTENTS excellent way to get things started. ll varies between the ‘y’ in ‘yes’ and the una pensión oo·na pen·syon
Spanish 282 For a more comprehensive guide to the ‘lli’ in ‘million’ a hotel
Pronunciation 282 Spanish of Mexico, get a copy of Lonely ñ as the ‘ni’ in ‘onion’ un hotel oon o·tel
Gender & Plurals 283 Planet’s Mexican Spanish Phrasebook. For r a short r except at the beginning of a a lodging house
words and phrases that will come in handy word, and after l, n or s, when it’s una casa de huéspedes oo·na ka·sa de wes·pe·des
Accommodations 283
when dining, see p55. often rolled a posada
Conversation & Essentials 284
rr very strongly rolled (not reflected in una posada oo·na po·sa·da
Directions 284
the pronunciation guides) a youth hostel
Emergencies
Health
285
285 SPANISH v similar to English ‘b,’ but softer;
referred to as ‘b corta’
un albergue juvenil oon al·ber·ge khoo·ve·neel
Language Difficulties 285
Numbers 285
PRONUNCIATION x as in ‘taxi,’ and sometimes as ‘sh,’
Vowels especially by indigenous people MAKING A RESERVATION
Shopping & Services 286 z as the ‘s’ in ‘sun’
a as in ‘father’ To ... A ...
Time & Dates 286
e as in ‘met’ From ... De ...
Transportation 287 Word Stress
i as in ‘marine’ Date Fecha
Yucatec Maya 288 In general, words ending in vowels or the
o as in ‘or’ (without the ‘r’ sound) I’d like to book ... Quisiera reservar ... (see
Pronunciation 288 letters n or s have stress on the next-to-last
u as in ‘rule’; the ‘u’ is not pronounced under ‘Accommodations’
Useful Words & Phrases 288 syllable, while those with other endings have for bed and room options)
after q and in the letter combinations
gue and gui, unless it’s marked with stress on the last syllable. Thus vaca (cow) in the name of ... en nombre de ...
The predominant language of Mexico is a diaeresis (eg argüir), in which case and caballos (horses) both carry stress on for the nights of ... para las noches del ...
it’s pronounced as English ‘w’ the next-to-last syllable, while ciudad (city) credit card ... tarjeta de crédito ...
Spanish. Mexican Spanish is unlike Castilian
y at the end of a word or when it stands and infeliz (unhappy) are both stressed on number número
Spanish (the language of much of Spain) in a the last syllable.
few respects: in Mexico the Castilian lisp has alone, it’s pronounced as the Spanish expiry date fecha de vencimiento
i (eg ley); between vowels within a Written accents will almost always appear
more or less disappeared, the vosotros form in words that don’t follow the rules above, Please confirm ... Puede confirmar ...
(informal plural ‘you’) isn’t used and numer- word it’s as the ‘y’ in ‘yonder’
eg sótano (basement), porción (portion). availability la disponibilidad
ous indigenous words have been adopted. price el precio
There are more than 30 Maya dialects Consonants GENDER & PLURALS
still spoken today. Chiapas has eight dia- As a rule, Spanish consonants resemble
In Spanish, nouns are either masculine or
lects, with Tzeltal, Tzotzil and Chol being their English counterparts. The exceptions Are there any rooms available?
feminine, and there are a few rules to help
are listed below. ¿Hay habitaciones libres?
LANGUAGE

LANGUAGE
the most widely spoken. Yucatec Maya is determine gender (with the mandatory ex-
While the consonants ch, ll and ñ are gen- ceptions, of course). Feminine nouns gen- ay a·bee·ta·syon·es lee·bres
the predominant indigenous language of the
erally considered distinct letters, ch and ll erally end with -a or with the groups -ción,
Yucatán. For some background information are now often listed alphabetically under c -sión or -dad. Other endings typically signify I’d like a ... Quisiera una kee·sye·ra oo·na
and a few handy words and phrases in the and l respectively. The letter ñ is still treated a masculine noun. Endings for adjectives room. habitación ... a·bee·ta·syon ...
language, see p288. as a separate letter and comes after n in also change to agree with the gender of the double doble do·ble
Travelers in cities, towns and larger vil- dictionaries. single individual een·dee·vee·dwal
lages can almost always find someone who noun they modify (masculine/feminine -o/
-a). Where both masculine and feminine twin con dos camas kon dos ka·mas
speaks at least some English. All the same, b similar to English ‘b,’ but softer;
it is advantageous and courteous to know forms are included in this language guide,
referred to as ‘b larga’ they are separated by a slash, with the mas- How much is it ¿Cuánto cuesta kwan·to kwes·ta
at least a few words and phrases in Spanish. c as in ‘celery’ before e and i; otherwise per ...? por ...? por ...
culine form first, eg perdido/a.
Mexicans will generally respond much more as English ‘k’ If a noun or adjective ends in a vowel, the night noche no·che
positively if you attempt to speak to them ch as in ‘church’ plural is formed by adding s to the end. If person persona per·so·na
in their own language. d as in ‘dog,’ but between vowels and it ends in a consonant, the plural is formed week semana se·ma·na
It’s easy enough to pick up some basic after l or n, the sound is closer to the by adding es to the end.
Spanish, and for those who want to learn the ‘th’ in ‘this’ full board pensión pen·syon
language in greater depth, courses are avail- g as the ‘ch’ in the Scottish loch before ACCOMMODATIONS completa kom·ple·ta
able in the Yucatán itself (p251). You can e and i (‘kh’ in our guides to pronun- I’m looking for ... private/shared baño privado/ ba·nyo pree·va·do/
also study using books, records and tapes ciation); elsewhere, as in ‘go’ Estoy buscando ... e·stoy boos·kan·do ... bathroom compartido kom·par·tee·do
 284 S PA N I S H • • C o n v e r s a t i o n & E s s e n t i a l s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S PA N I S H • • E m e r g e n c i e s 285

too expensive demasiado caro de·ma·sya·do ka·ro How are things? LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES
cheaper más económico mas e·ko·no·mee·ko ¿Qué tal? ke tal EMERGENCIES Do you speak (English)?
discount descuento des·kwen·to My name is ... Help! ¡Socorro! so·ko·ro ¿Habla/Hablas (inglés)? a·bla/a·blas (een·gles) (pol/inf)
Me llamo ... me ya·mo ... Fire! ¡Fuego! fwe·go Does anyone here speak English?
Does it include breakfast? It’s a pleasure to meet you. I’ve been Me han robado. me an ro·ba·do ¿Hay alguien que hable ai al·gyen ke a·ble
¿Incluye el desayuno? een·kloo·ye el de·sa·yoo·no Mucho gusto. moo·cho goos·to robbed. inglés? een·gles
May I see the room? The pleasure is mine. Go away! ¡Déjeme! de·khe·me I (don’t) understand.
¿Puedo ver la pwe·do ver la El gusto es mío. el goos·to es mee·o Get lost! ¡Váyase! va·ya·se (No) Entiendo. (no) en·tyen·do
habitación? a·bee·ta·syon Where are you from? How do you say ...?
I don’t like it. ¿De dónde es/eres? de don·de es/er·es (pol/inf) Call ...! ¡Llame a ...! ya·me a ¿Cómo se dice ...? ko·mo se dee·se ...
No me gusta. no me goos·ta I’m from ... the police la policía la po·lee·see·a What does ...mean?
It’s fine. I’ll take it. Soy de ... soy de ... a doctor un médico oon me·dee·ko ¿Qué significa ...? ke seeg·nee·fee·ka ...
Está bien. La tomo. es·ta byen la to·mo Where are you staying? an ambulance una ambulancia oo·na am·boo·
I’m leaving now. ¿Dónde está alojado? don·de es·ta a·lo·kha·do (pol) lan·sya Could you please ...?
Me voy ahora. me voy a·o·ra ¿Dónde estás alojado? don·de es·tas a·lo·kha·do (inf) It’s an emergency. ¿Puede ..., por favor? pwe·de ... por fa·vor
May I take a photo? Es una emergencia. es oo·na e·mer·khen·sya repeat that
CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS ¿Puedo sacar una foto? pwe·do sa·kar oo·na fo·to Could you help me, please? repetirlo re·pe·teer·lo
When approaching a stranger for informa- ¿Me puede ayudar, me pwe·de a·yoo·dar speak more slowly
tion you should always extend a greeting, por favor? por fa·vor hablar más despacio a·blar mas des·pa·syo
SIGNS
and use only the polite form of address, I’m lost. write it down
especially with the police and public offi- Entrada Entrance Estoy perdido/a. es·toy per·dee·do/a
Salida Exit escribirlo es·kree·beer·lo
cials. Young people may be less likely to Where are the toilets?
Información Information ¿Dónde están los baños? don·de stan los ba·nyos
expect this, but it’s best to stick to the polite
Abierto Open NUMBERS
form unless you’re quite sure you won’t 1 uno oo·no
offend by using the informal mode. The Cerrado Closed
Prohibido Prohibited HEALTH 2 dos dos
polite form is used in all cases in this guide; I’m sick. 3 tres tres
where options are given, the form is indi- Comisaria Police Station
Servicios/Baños Toilets Estoy enfermo/a. es·toy en·fer·mo/a 4 cuatro kwa·tro
cated by the abbreviations ‘pol’ and ‘inf.’ 5 cinco seen·ko
Hombres/Varones Men I need a doctor.
The use of por favor (please) and gracias 6 seis says
(thank you) are second nature to most Mujeres/Damas Women Necesito un doctor. ne·se·see·to oon dok·tor
Where’s the hospital? 7 siete sye·te
Mexicans and a recommended tool in your 8 ocho o·cho
¿Dónde está el hospital? don·de es·ta el os·pee·tal
travel kit. DIRECTIONS I’m pregnant.
9 nueve nwe·ve
How do I get to ...? 10 diez dyes
Hi. Hola. o·la (inf) Estoy embarazada. es·toy em·ba·ra·sa·da
¿Cómo llego a ...? ko·mo ye·go a ... 11 once on·se
Hello. Buen día. bwe·n dee·a I’ve been vaccinated. 12 doce do·se
Is it far? Estoy vacunado/a. es·toy va·koo·na·do/a
Good morning. Buenos días. bwe·nos dee·as ¿Está lejos? es·ta le·khos 13 trece tre·se
Good afternoon.
LANGUAGE

Buenas tardes. bwe·nas tar·des 14

LANGUAGE
Go straight ahead. catorce ka·tor·se
Good evening/ Buenas noches. bwe·nas no·ches I have ... Tengo ... ten·go ... 15 quince keen·se
Siga/Vaya derecho. see·ga/va·ya de·re·cho
night. Turn left. diarrhea diarrea dya·re·a 16 dieciséis dye·see·says
Goodbye. Adiós. a·dyos De vuelta a la izquierda. de vwel·ta a la ees·kyer·da nausea náusea now·se·a 17 diecisiete dye·see·sye·te
See you soon. Hasta luego. as·ta lwe·go Turn right. a headache un dolor de oon do·lor de 18 dieciocho dye·see·o·cho
Yes. Sí. see De vuelta a la derecha. de vwel·ta a la de·re·cha cabeza ka·be·sa 19 diecinueve dye·see·nwe·ve
No. No. no Can you show me (on the map)? a cough tos tos 20 veinte vayn·te
Please. Por favor. por fa·vor ¿Me lo podría señalar me lo po·dree·a se·nya·lar 21 veintiuno vayn·tee·oo·no
Thank you. Gracias. gra·syas (en el mapa)? (en el ma·pa) I’m allergic Soy alérgico/a soy a·ler·khee·ko/a 30 treinta trayn·ta
Many thanks. Muchas gracias. moo·chas gra·syas to ... a ... a ... 31 treinta y uno trayn·ta ee oo·no
You’re welcome. De nada. de na·da north norte nor·te antibiotics los antibióticos los an·tee·byo· 40 cuarenta kwa·ren·ta
Apologies. Perdón. per·don south sur soor tee·kos 50 cincuenta seen·kwen·ta
May I? Permiso. per·mee·so east este es·te nuts las nueces las nwe·ses 60 sesenta se·sen·ta
Excuse me. Disculpe. dees·kool·pe west oeste o·es·te peanuts los cacahuates los ka·ka·khwa·tes· 70 setenta se·ten·ta
(used before a request or when apologizing) here aquí a·kee 80 ochenta o·chen·ta
there ahí a·ee I’m ... Soy ... soy ... 90 noventa no·ven·ta
What’s your name? avenue avenida a·ve·nee·da asthmatic asmático/a as·ma·tee·ko/a 100 cien syen
¿Cómo se llama usted? ko·mo se ya·ma oo·sted (pol) block cuadra kwa·dra diabetic diabético/a dya·be·tee·ko/a 101 ciento uno syen·to oo·no
¿Cómo te llamas? ko·mo te ya·mas (inf) street calle/paseo ka·lye/pa·se·o epileptic epiléptico/a e·pee·lep·tee·ko/a 200 doscientos do·syen·tos
 286 S PA N I S H • • S h o p p i n g & S e r v i c e s lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com S PA N I S H • • T r a n s p o r t a t i o n 287

1000 mil meel What time does it open/close? TRANSPORTATION I’d like (100) pesos worth.
5000 cinco mil seen·ko meel ¿A qué hora abre/cierra? Public Transportation Quiero (cien) pesos. kye·ro (syen) pe·sos
a ke o·ra a·bre/sye·ra What time does ¿A qué hora ... a ke o·ra ...
SHOPPING & SERVICES I want to change some money/traveler’s checks. ... leave/arrive? sale/llega? sa·le/ye·ga diesel diesel dee·sel
I’d like to buy ... Quisiera cambiar dinero/cheques de viajero. the boat el barco el bar·ko gas/petrol gasolina ga·so·lee·na
Quisiera comprar ... kee·sye·ra kom·prar ... kee·sye·ra kam·byar dee·ne·ro/che·kes de vya·khe·ro unleaded gasolina sin ga·so·lee·na seen
the bus (city) el camión el ka·myon
I’m just looking. What is the exchange rate? plomo plo·mo
Sólo estoy mirando. so·lo es·toy mee·ran·do ¿Cuál es el tipo de cambio?
the bus (intercity) el autobús el ow·to·boos
the minibus el combi/ el kom·bee/ oil aceite a·say·te
May I look at it? kwal es el tee·po de kam·byo
¿Puedo verlo/la? pwe·do ver·lo/la I want to call ... minibús mee·nee·boos
How much is it? Quisiera llamar a ... the plane el avión el a·vyon ROAD SIGNS
¿Cuánto cuesta? kwan·to kwes·ta kee·sye·ra lya·mar a ... Though Mexico mostly uses the familiar inter-
That’s too expensive for me. the airport el aeropuerto el a·e·ro·pwer·to national road signs, you should be prepared
Es demasiado caro es de·ma·sya·do ka·ro airmail correo aéreo ko·re·o a·e·re·o the bus station la estación de la es·ta·syon de to encounter these others as well:
para mí. pa·ra mee letter carta kar·ta autobuses ow·to·boo·ses Acceso Entrance
Could you lower the price? registered (mail) certificado ser·tee·fee·ka·do the bus stop la parada de la pa·ra·da de Estacionamiento Parking
¿Podría bajar un poco po·dree·a ba·khar oon po·ko stamps timbres teem·bres autobuses ow·to·boo·ses Ceda el Paso Give Way
el precio? el pre·syo a luggage locker un casillero oon ka·see·ye·ro Curva Peligrosa Dangerous Curve
I don’t like it. TIME & DATES the ticket office la taquilla la ta·kee·ya Despacio Slow
No me gusta. no me goos·ta What time is it? Desviación Detour
I’ll take it. ¿Qué hora es? ke o·ra es A ticket to ..., Un boleto a ..., oon bo·le·to a ... Dirección Única One-Way
Lo llevo. lo ye·vo It’s one o’clock. please. por favor. por fa·vor No Adelantar No Overtaking
Es la una. es la oo·na What’s the fare ¿Cuánto cuesta kwan·to kwes·ta No Hay Paso Road Closed
Do you accept ...? It’s seven o’clock. to ...? hasta ...? a·sta ... Peligro Danger
¿Aceptan ...? a·sep·tan ... Son las siete. son las sye·te
American dollars Half past two. Prepare Su Cuota Have Toll Ready
student’s de estudiante de es·too·dyan·te Prohibido Aparcar/ No Parking
dólares americanos do·la·res a·me·ree·ka·nos Dos y media. dos ee me·dya
credit cards 1st class primera clase pree·me·ra kla·se No Estacionar
tarjetas de crédito tar·khe·tas de kre·dee·to midnight medianoche me·dya·no·che 2nd class segunda clase se·goon·da kla·se Prohibido el Paso No Entry
traveler’s checks noon mediodía me·dyo·dee·a single/one way viaje sencillo vee·a·khe sen·see·yo Topes Speed Bumps
cheques de viajero che·kes de vya·khe·ro now ahora a·o·ra round-trip redondo re·don·do
today hoy oy taxi taxi tak·see Is this the road to (...)?
less menos me·nos tonight esta noche es·ta no·che ¿Por aquí se va a (...)?
more más mas tomorrow mañana ma·nya·na Private Transportation por a·kee se va a (...)
large grande gran·de yesterday ayer a·yer I’d like to Quisiera kee·sye·ra Where do I pay?
small pequeño/a pe·ke·nyo/a hire a/an ... rentar ... ren·tar ... ¿Dónde se paga?
Monday lunes loo·nes 4WD un cuatro por oon kwa·tro por don·de se pa·ga
LANGUAGE

LANGUAGE
I’m looking Estoy buscando ... es·toy boos·kan·do Tuesday martes mar·tes cuatro kwa·tro I need a mechanic/tow truck.
for (the) ... Wednesday miércoles myer·ko·les car un coche oon ko·che Necesito un mecánico/remolque.
ATM el cajero el ka·khe·ro Thursday jueves khwe·ves motorbike una moto oo·na mo·to ne·se·see·to oon me·ka·nee·ko/re·mol·ke
automático ow·to·ma·tee·ko Friday viernes vyer·nes
Is there a garage near here?
bank el banco el ban·ko Saturday sábado sa·ba·do bicycle bicicleta bee·see·kle·ta ¿Hay un garaje cerca de aquí?
bookstore la librería la lee·bre·ree·a Sunday domingo do·meen·go hitchhike pedir aventón pe·deer a·ven·ton ai oon ga·ra·khe ser·ka de a·kee
exchange office la casa de la ka·sa de pickup (ute) pickup pee·kop
cambio kam·byo January enero e·ne·ro The car has broken down (in ...).
truck camión ka·myon El coche se se descompuso (en ...).
general store la tienda la tyen·da February febrero fe·bre·ro
laundry la lavandería la la·van·de·ree·a March marzo mar·so el ko·che se des·kom·poo·so (en ...)
market el mercado el mer·ka·do April abril a·breel Where’s a gas/petrol station? I have a flat tire.
pharmacy/ la farmacia la far·ma·sya May mayo ma·yo ¿Dónde hay una don·de ai oo·na Tengo una llanta ponchada.
chemist June junio khoo·nyo gasolinera? ga·so·lee·ne·ra ten·go oo·na yan·ta pon·cha·da
post office la oficina la o·fee·see·na July julio khoo·lyo How much is a liter of gasoline/petrol? I’ve run out of gas/petrol.
de correos de ko·re·os August agosto a·gos·to ¿Cuánto cuesta el litro kwan·to kwes·ta el lee·tro Me quedé sin gasolina.
supermarket el supermercado el soo·per· September septiembre sep·tyem·bre de gasolina? de ga·so·lee·na me ke·de seen ga·so·lee·na
mer·ka·do October octubre ok·too·bre I‘ve had an accident.
tourist office la oficina de la o·fee·see·na de November noviembre no·vyem·bre Please fill it up. Tuve un accidente.
turismo too·rees·mo December diciembre dee·syem·bre Lleno, por favor. ye·no por fa·vor too·ve oon ak·see·den·te
 288 Y U C AT E C MAYA • • P r o n u n c i a t i o n lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com Y U C AT E C MAYA • • U s e f u l W o r d s & P h r a s e s 289

YUCATEC MAYA VILLAGE GREETINGS

Good day.
Buenos dias. bwe·nos dee·as
Do you speak Spanish?
Teche’, ka t’aanik wa castellano t’aan?
The most polite thing to do in a village set- Good afternoon. te·che’ ka t’a·neek wa ca·stay·ya·no t’an?
Yucatec Maya, spoken primarily in Yu- Buenas tardes. bwe·nos tar·des Who is the head of the house?
ting is to greet the male head of the house-
catán, Campeche and Quintana Roo, and in Good evening. Maax u pool u nail?
hold first. If you have trouble figuring out
the northern and western parts of Belize, is Buenas noches. bwe·nos no·ches mash oo pole oo na·heel?
who this is, simply try to greet the oldest
part of the Amerind family of Native Ameri-
man present. Men should try to speak to
can languages. This means that Yucatec Where is the ...?
other men or possibly older women. Ap- You might also hear someone saying simply
Maya (commonly called ‘Yucatec’ by schol- Tu’ux yaan le ... too·’oosh yan le ...
proaching young women might give people buenos to stand in for the full greeting; this
ars and ‘Maya’ by local speakers) is related
a mistaken idea of your intentions. Women isn’t considered as improper to Maya speak- bathroom
to many languages spoken in the southeast-
should try to greet the eldest man (as ers as it is for many Spanish speakers. baño ba’·nyo
ern United States, as well as many of the
above), and any of the women you think are road to ...
indigenous languages of far-off California
and Oregon (eg Costanoan, Klamath and
your age or older. How are you? u be ti’ ... u be tee ...
Tsimshian). Yucatec is just one of 28 mod- Bix a beel? beesh a bail? hotel
Bix yanikech? beesh yaw·nee·kech? (less hotel o·tel
ern Mayan languages but it probably has signifies a glottal stop (the sound between
the largest number of speakers, estimated at formal) doctor
the two syllables in ‘uh-oh’) – it doesn’t OK/Well. médico me·dee·ko
900,000 people. signify a more forceful vowel. See ‘Tongue
You can hear Yucatec spoken in the mar- Maalob. ma·lobe Comisario
Twisters – A Difficult Decision’ (p41) for Bye/See you tomorrow. Comis ko·mees
kets and occasionally by hotel staff in cities more information on the glottal stop.
throughout the peninsula. If you really Hasta saamal. as·ta sa·mal
Maya is a tone language, which means Goodbye. How much is ...?
want to hear Yucatec spoken by monolin- that some words take on different meanings
gual Maya (and learn a lot about Maya cul- Pa’atik kin bin. pa’a·teek keen been Baux ...? ba·hoosh ...?
when pronounced with a high tone or a low Thank you. this one
ture besides!), you must travel to some of
tone. For example, aak said with a high tone Gracias/Dios Bo’otik. gra·see·as/dyose boe’o·teek lela’ le·la’
the peninsula’s more remote villages. Maya
means ‘turtle,’ but ‘grass’ or ‘vine’ when Yes. that one
speakers will not assume that you know any
said with a low tone. Haa/He’ele. haa/he’e·le lelo’ le·lo’
of their language. If you attempt to say
something in Maya, people will usually re- In many Mayan place names the stress (Maya speakers often reiterate what is said to them,
spond quite favorably. A useful learning falls on the last syllable. When these names instead of saying ‘yes’; eg ‘Are you going to the store?’ expensive
resource is the online Maya dictionary are written out, Spanish rules for indicating ‘I’m going.’) ko’o ko·’o
(www.famsi.org/mayawriting/dictionary stress are often followed (see p283). This No. not expensive
.htm). So give it a try! practice varies; in this book we have tried Ma’. ma’ mix ko’oi meesh ko·’o·hi
to include accents as much as possible. What’s your name? pretty
PRONUNCIATION Here are some pronunciation examples: Bix a k’aaba? beesh a k’aa·ba? ki’ichpam kee·’eech·pam
Mayan vowels are similar to English vowels My name is ... I’m hungry.
but the consonants can be a bit tricky. Abaj Takalik a·bah ta·ka·leek In kaabae’ ... een ka·ba·e’ Wiihen. wee·hen
Acance a·kan·ke I understand English. It’s (very) tasty.
LANGUAGE

LANGUAGE
c always hard, as the ‘k’ in ‘kick’ Dzibilchaltún dzee·beel·chal·toon Kin na’atik ingles. keen na·’a·teek een·gles (Hach) Ki’. (hach) kee’
j always an aspirated ‘h’ sound. So Hopelchén ho·pel·chen I want to drink water.
abaj is pronounced ah·bahh; to get Oxcutzkab osh·kootz·kab I don’t speak Maya. Tak in wukik ha’. tak een woo·keek ha’
the ‘hh’ sound, take the ‘h’ sound Pacal pa·kal Ma tin na’atik mayat’aani.
from ‘half’ and put it at the end of Pop pope ma’ teen na·’a·teek ma·ya·taa·nee 1 un peel oom pail
ah·bahh. Tikal tee·kal 2 ka peel ka pail
u as ‘oo’ except at the start or end of a Uaxactún wa·shak·toon 3 ox peel osh pail
word, in which case it’s like English Xcaret shka·ret
‘w.’ Thus baktun is ‘bak·toon,’ but Yaxchilán yash·chee·lan When counting animate objects, like people,
Uaxactún is ‘wa·shak·toon’ and ahau replace peel with tuul (pronounced ‘tool’).
is is ‘a·haw’. USEFUL WORDS & PHRASES Beyond three, use Spanish numbers.
x as the ‘sh’ in ‘she’; a shushing sound Spanish borrowings tend to be stressed dif-
ferently in Yucatec Maya, eg amigo (Span-
Mayan glottalized consonants (ie those fol- ish for ‘friend’) is pronounced ‘a·mee·go’ in
lowed by an apostrophe: b’, ch’, k’, p’, t’) are Spanish and ‘aa·mee·go’ in Yucatec.
similar to normal consonants, but are pro- Also available from Lonely Planet:
nounced more forcefully and ‘explosively.’ Hello. Mexican Spanish Phrasebook
However, an apostrophe following a vowel Hola. o·la
 290 G L O S S A R Y 291

h-menob – Maya shaman still practicing their trade in metate – flattish stone on which corn is ground with a

Glossary the Yucatán today.

huipil (s), huipiles (pl) – indigenous women’s
sleeveless white tunic, usually intricately and colorfully
cylindrical stone roller
Montezuma’s revenge – Mexican version of ‘Delhi-
belly’ or travelers’ diarrhea
embroidered mudéjar – Moorish architectural style
Words specific to food, restaurants and eat- combi – a catch-all term used for taxi, van and minibus mul – mound in Maya. Often used to describe
ing are listed on p55. See also the Language services regardless of vehicle type iglesia – church pyramid sites.
chapter, p288. comida corrida – set meal, meal of the day INAH – Instituto Nacional de Arqueología e Historia; the mulatto – a person of mixed white and black ancestry
conquistador – explorer-conqueror of Latin America body in charge of most ancient sites and some museums municipios – townships
Ah Tz’ib – Maya scribes. They penned the Chilam Balam from Spain INM – Instituto Nacional de Migración (National
and still practice their craft today. correo, correos – post office Immigration Institute) na – thatched Maya hut
alux (s), aluxes (pl) – Maya ‘leprechauns,’ benevolent costera – waterfront avenue Itzamná – lord of the heavens; a popular figure on the nohoch – ‘big’ in Maya. The word is used by everybody
‘little people’ criollo – a person of pure Spanish descent born in Spanish wooden panels of contemporary architecture around the peninsula to describe large men.
Ángeles Verdes – ‘Green Angels’; bilingual mechanics in America IVA – impuesto al valor agregado or ‘ee-bah,’ a 15% value- nortes – relatively cold storms bringing wind and rain
green trucks who patrol major highways, offering break- cuota – toll road added tax added to many items in Mexico from the north
down assistance Ixchel – Maya goddess of the moon and fertility Nte – abbreviation for norte (north), used in street names
ayuntamiento – municipal government; commonly seen daños a terceros – third-party car insurance
as H Ayuntamiento (Honorable Ayuntamiento) de lujo – deluxe class of bus service jarana – a folkloric dance that has been performed by oficina de correos – post office; also called correo
DNI – Derecho para No Inmigrante; nonimmigrant fee Yucatecans for centuries or correos
baluartes – bastions or bulwarks charged to all foreign tourists and business travelers jipijapa – an alternative name for panama hats (which Ote – abbreviation for oriente (east), used in street names
barrio – district, neighborhood visiting Mexico are made from jipijapa palm fronds)
billete – bank note (unlike in Spain, where it’s a ticket) palacio de gobierno – building housing the executive
boleto – ticket (bus, train, museum etc) ejido – communal landholding, though laws now allow Kukulcán – Maya name for the Aztec-Toltec plumed offices of a state or regional government
sale of ejido land to outside individuals serpent Quetzalcóatl palacio municipal – town or city hall; municipal
cacique – indigenous chief; also used to describe a encomenderos – owners of Maya lands divided into government
provincial warlord or strongman large estates ladino – also known as mestizo, a person of mixed palapa – thatched, palm-leaf-roofed shelter usually with
cafetería – literally ‘coffee-shop,’ it refers to any informal encomienda – a grant made to a conquistador, consisting indigenous and European blood’ open sides
restaurant with waiter service; it is not usually a self- of labor by or tribute from a group of indigenous people; lagunas – small lakes, lagoons Pemex – government-owned petroleum extraction,
service restaurant the conquistador was supposed to protect and convert larga distancia – long-distance; usually refers to refining and retailing monopoly
cajero automático – Automated Teller Machine (ATM) them, but usually treated them as little more than slaves telephones, often seen on signs outside casetas as ‘Lada’ pisto – colloquial Maya term for money
camión (s), camiones (pl) – truck; bus lavandería – laundry; a lavandería automática is a coin- plateresque – ‘silversmith-like’; the architectural
camioneta – pickup feria – fair or carnival, typically occurring during a operated laundry style of the Spanish renaissance (16th century), rich in
campechanos – citizens of Campeche religious holiday lista de correos – general delivery in Mexico; literally decoration
campesinos – countryfolk, farm workers ‘mail list,’ the list of addressees for whom mail is being Popol Vuh – painted Maya book containing sacred
casa de cambio – currency-exchange office gala terno – women’s straight, white, square-necked held, displayed in the post office legends and stories; equivalent to the Bible
casetas de teléfono – call offices where an on-the- dress with an embroidered overyoke and hem, worn over lonchería – from English ‘lunch’; a simple restaurant that porfiriato – the name given to the era of Porfirio Diaz’s
spot operator connects the call for you; often shortened an underskirt, which sports an embroidered strip near the may in fact serve meals all day (not just lunch), often seen 35-year rule as president-dictator (1876–1911), preceding
to casetas bottom; fancier than a huipil and often accompanied by a near municipal markets. See also cocina. the Mexican Revolution
cenote – a deep limestone sinkhole containing water hand-knitted shawl lotería – Mexico’s version of bingo PRI – Partido Revolucionario Institucional (Institutional
cerveza – beer gringo/a – male/female US or Canadian visitor to Latin Revolutionary Party); the controlling force in Mexican politics
Chac – Maya god of rain America (sometimes applied to any visitor of European machismo – maleness, masculine virility or bravura for much of the 20th century
chac-mool – Maya sacrificial stone sculpture heritage); can be used derogatorily but more often is a malecón – waterfront boulevard primera (1a) clase – 1st class of bus service
chenes – name for cenotes (limestone sinkholes) in the mere statement of fact manzana – apple; also a city block. A supermanzana is
Chenes region gruta – cave, grotto a large group of city blocks bounded by major avenues. Quetzalcóatl – plumed serpent god of the Aztecs and
chilangos – natives of Mexico City guardaequipaje – room for storing luggage (eg in a Cancún uses manzana and supermanzana numbers as Toltecs
chultún (s), chultunes (pl) – Maya cistern found at bus terminal) addresses.
Puuc archaeological sites south of Mérida guayabera – man’s thin fabric shirt with pockets and ap- maquiladora – export-only factory paying retablo – altarpiece (usually an ornate gilded, carved
cocina – cookshop (literally ‘kitchen’), a small, basic pliquéd designs on the front, over the shoulders and down workers around M$40 per day wooden decoration in a church)
restaurant usually run by one woman, often located in or the back; often worn in place of a jacket and tie mariachi – small ensemble of Mexican street musicians; ría – estuary
GLOSSARY

GLOSSARY
near a municipal market; also seen as cocina económica strolling mariachi bands often perform in restaurants río – river
(economical kitchen) or cocina familiar (family kitchen); hacendado – landowner más o menos – more or less, somewhat roofcomb – a decorative stonework lattice atop a Maya
see also lonchería hacienda – estate; Hacienda (capitalized) is the Treasury méridanos – citizens of Mérida pyramid or temple
colectivo – literally, ‘shared,’ a car, van (VW combi, Ford Department mestizo – also known as ladino, a person of mixed indig-
or Chevrolet) or minibus that picks up and drops off pas- henequen – agave fiber used to make rope, grown enous and European blood; the word now more commonly sacbé (s), sacbeob (pl) – ceremonial limestone avenue
sengers along its set route; also known as taxi colectivo particularly around Mérida means ‘Mexican’ or path between great Maya cities
 © Lonely Planet Publications
292 G L O S S A R Y G L O S S A R Y 293

segunda (2a) clase – 2nd class of bus service torito – a vivacious song that evokes the fervor of a bullfight
Semana Santa – Holy Week, the week from Palm tranvía – tram or motorized trolley
Sunday to Easter Sunday; Mexico’s major holiday period
stela (s), stelae (pl) – standing stone monument, vaquería – a traditional Yucatecan party where couples
usually carved dance in unison to a series of songs; the parties are often
supermercado – supermarket, ranging from a corner held in town halls or on haciendas
store to a large, US-style supermarket
sur – south; often seen in street names viajero/a – male/female traveler
temescal – bathhouse, sweat lodge vulcanizadora – automobile tire repair shop
templo – in Mexico, a church; anything from a wayside
chapel to a cathedral War of the Castes – bloody 19th-century Maya uprising
tequila – clear, distilled liquor produced, like pulque and in the Yucatán
mezcal, from the maguey cactus
Tex-Mex – Americanized version of Mexican food Xibalbá – in Maya religious belief, the secret world or
típico – typical or characteristic of a region; particularly underworld
used to describe food
topes – speed bumps, sometimes indicated by a highway xtabentún – a traditional Maya spirit in the Yucatán; an
sign depicting a row of little bumps anise-flavored liqueur made by fermenting honey
GLOSSARY

GLOSSARY
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally
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 © Lonely Planet Publications
296 297

Index
See also GreenDex p309 books 48 pyramids 47
Calakmul 222-3 Río Bec style 48-9, 13
A Chicanná 223-4 Spanish Colonial style 49
accommodations 247-50, see Chichén Itzá 15, 32, 33, 43, Toltec-Maya style 49
also individual locations 186-93, 187, 15 area codes 261, see also inside front
apartments 248-9 Chinkultic 245 cover
B&Bs 248-9 Cobá 15, 129-32, 130, 15 art galleries, see museums &
cabanas 249 Comalcalco 230 galleries
camping 249 Corredor Arqueológico 145-7 arts 44-9, see also architecture, dance,
hostels 249 Dzibanché 145-6 handicrafts, literature, music
hotels 249-50 Dzibilchaltún 15, 156, 182-3, 15 books 49
online bookings 247 Dzibilnocac 217-18 Atasta Peninsula 221
responsible travel 22 Edzná 214-16, 215 ATMs 257
taxes 248 Ek’ Balam 196-7 Aztec people 33
activities 12-13, 64-70, 250, see also El Castillo Real 114
bird-watching, cycling, div- El Tabasqueño 217 B
ing, fishing, hiking, kayaking, El Tigre 221 Bahías de Punta Solimán 121
kiteboarding, snorkeling, Hochob 217 Balamkú 221-2
volunteering, wildlife watching, Hormiguero 226 balché 52, 53
windsurfing, ziplining Kabah 171-2, 171 Banco Chinchorro 7, 62, 137
INDEX

INDEX
Agua Azul 245 Kinich-Kakmó 186 bargaining 258
air travel Kohunlich 146-7 baseball 41
airlines 266-7, 270 Labná 173, 173 bathrooms 262
airports 266 Mayapán 174-5 beaches
responsible travel 22, 268 Ox-Huadz 186 Akumal 119-20
tickets 267, 268, 269 Oxkintok 167 Bahías de Punta Solimán 121
to/from the Yucatán 266-9 Palenque 15, 240-2, 241, 14 Cancún 76-8
within the Yucatán 270 Río Bec 13, 226, 13 Celestún 181
Akumal 119-20 sacbeob 129, 131 Cozumel 113
alcohol 52 San Gervasio 114-15 El Cuyo 200
alternative tourism 99 Sayil 172-3 Isla Aguada 219
aluxes 104 Tohcok 217 Isla Mujeres 9, 90
Amatenango del Valle 245 Toniná 245 itineraries 29, 29
animals 59-61, see also ants, birds, Tulum 15, 124-6, 125, 16 Paamul 119
crocodiles, flamingos, howler Uxmal 167-71, 168 Playa del Carmen 104-5
monkeys, jaguars, sharks, spider Xcalak 138 Playa Norte 9, 220, 8
monkeys, turtles, whale sharks, Xcambó 184 Playa Varadero 219
wildlife watching Xlapak 173 Progreso 183
bites 280, 281 Xpuhil 224 Puerto Ceiba 231
books 61 Yamil Lu’um 76 Punta Bete 102
endangered species 61 Yaxchilán 243-6 safety 78, 252
internet resources 58, 60 Zona Arqueológica El Rey 76 Tankah 121-2
rabies 279 architecture 47-9 Telchac Puerto 184-5
animism 44 books 48 Tulum 124-6, 16
ants 145 Chenes style 48-9 Xpu-há 119
archaeological sites Classic style 48 Bécal 214
Aguada Grande 114 Cocom style 49 Becán 224
Balamkú 221-2 Esperanza style 48 Belize 146
Becán 224 Maya style 47-9 border crossings 269
Bonampak 243-6 Puuc style 48-9 bicycle travel, see cycling
 298 Index (B-C) Index (C-E) 299

biosphere reserves birds 59 travel to/from 86-7 Chiapas 231-46, 229 courses 251 Día de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe
Banco Chinchorro 7, 62, 137 culture 39 travel within 88 safety 231 language 105, 157, 208, 235 23, 208, 254
Calakmul 9, 62, 222 fish 61 canoeing, see kayaking Chicanná 223-4 Cozumel 13, 64, 108-18, 109, 111, 13 Díaz, Porfirio 35, 36, 37
El Triunfo 245 health 277 Cañón del Sumidero 245 Chichén Itzá 15, 32, 33, 43, 186-93, accommodations 115-16 disabilities, travelers with 262
La Encrucijada 245 history 30, 32 cantinas 54 187, 15 activities 112-15 diving 6-7, 64-6, 65, 6-7, 12
Montes Azules 244 Maya civilization 30, 32, 35, 42, car travel Chicxulub 31 diving 64-6, 112, 113 Akumal 120
Pántanos de Centla 230-1 44-5 car rental 274 Chilam Balam 21-2, 32, 44 emergency services 110 Banco Chinchorro 7, 137
Ría Celestún 9, 62, 180 travel literature 21-2 driving distances map 273 children, travel with 78, 250-1 entertainment 117 Cancún 78
Ría Lagartos 9, 62, 198 border crossings insurance 270 food 54 food 116-17 caves 120-1
Sian Ka’an 9, 62, 133-4 to/from Belize 146, 269 organizations 274 health 278 history 108-10 cenotes 64, 78, 100, 123-4
birds 59-60, see also bird-watching, to/from the USA 269 road conditions 274-5 chilies 52 internet access 110 Cozumel 64-6, 112, 113
flamingos bus travel road rules 275 cholera 279 medical services 110 dive shops 67
bird-watching 59-60, see also to/from the Yucatán 269 to/from the Yucatán 269-71 Chumayel 175 sights 110, 112-15 internet resources 66
biosphere reserves, flamingos within the Yucatán 271-2 within the Yucatán 272-5 churches & cathedrals tourist information 110 Isla Mujeres 91
Bahías de Punta Solimán 121 bushwalking, see hiking Carnaval 23, see also festivals Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la travel to/from 117 itineraries 29, 29
books 59 business hours 250, see also inside casas de cambio 257 Purísima Concepción 205 travel within 117-18 Laguna Bacalar 139
Calakmul 9, 62, 222 front cover cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals Catedral de San Ildefonso 154 cranial deformation 131 Mahahual 136-7
Celestún 179-81 Catholicism 44 Ex-Templo de San José 207 credit cards 257 marine life 6-7, 60-1, 6-7
El Tigre 221 C caves Iglesia de San Antonio de Padua Cristalino Cenote 119, 4 Paamul 119
festivals 23 Calakmul 9, 62, 222-3 Balankanché 191 176 crocodiles 60 Playa del Carmen 104
internet resources 68 Calderón Hinojosa, Felipe 19 Calcehtok 167 Iglesia de San Francisco de Asis 213 Cobá 130 Puerto Morelos 100
Isla de Pájaros 219 calendar, Maya 36, 43, 188 diving 120-1 Iglesia de San Lorenzo 238 Cozumel 114 Punta Allen 134
Laguna Bacalar 139 Campeche (city) 15, 203-13, 206, 14 Loltún 174 Iglesia La Mejorada 157 Rancho Punta Venado 119 responsible diving 64, 66, 67
Laguna de Términos 219-20 accommodations 208-10 Nohoch Nah Chich 120 Parroquia Los Santos Reyes de Reserva de la Biósfera Pántanos de Tulum 122-4
Parque Nacional Isla Contoy 9, activities 204-5, 207-8 Ox Bel Ha 120 Tizimín 197 Centla 230-1 Xcalak 137-8
INDEX

INDEX
62, 96, 8 courses 208 San Cristóbal 245 Santuario de la Virgen de Izamal Reserva de la Biósfera Ría Lagartos drinks 52-3
Punta Laguna 132-3 drinking 211 Xtacumbilxuna’an 217 185 9, 198-9 alcoholic 52
Reserva de la Biósfera El Triunfo 245 entertainment 211-12 Celestún 156, 179-82 Santuario de la Virgen del Carmen Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka’an balché 52, 53
Reserva de la Biósfera Pántanos de festivals 208 cell phones 260 220 134 cantinas 54
Centla 230-1 food 210-11 cenotes 6-7, 58, 64, 124 Templo de San Bernardino 193-4 Cuauhtémoc 186 glossary 57
Reserva de la Biósfera Ría Celestún history 203 Angelita 7, 123-4 Templo de San Juan 238 cultural considerations 39 nonalcoholic 52-3
9, 62, 180-1 internet access 203 Azul 119, 139 Templo de Santo Domingo 234 culture 39-49, see also Maya people water 248, 280-1
Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka’an medical services 203 Cristalino Cenote 119, 4 cinema 44, 45 arts 44-9 xtabentún 52
9, 62, 133-4 shopping 212 Cuzamá 9, 156, 175-6 Ciudad del Carmen 220-1 identity 39 driving, see car travel
Río Lagartos 198-9 sights 204-5, 207-8 diving 64, 78, 100, 123-4 climate 20, 251 internet resources 39, 41 drugs 252
San Felipe 200 tourist information 204 Dos Ojos 120-1 change 268 lifestyle 40 DVDs 248
Selva Lacandona 242, 9 tours 208 Dzitnup 195 clothing population 40 Dzibanché 145-6
Tankah 121 travel to/from 212-13 El Jardín de Edén 119 guayaberas 164, 259 religion 40-4 Dzibilchaltún 15, 156, 182-3, 15
Toh Festival de Aves de Yucatán 23 travel within 213 Gran Cenote 129 huipiles 40, 46, 164, 259 sports 40-1 Dzibilnocac 217-18
tours 157 Campeche state 202-26, 204 Ik Kil 190-1 panama hats 46-7, 164, 214, 259 currency 257, see also inside front cover
Uaymitún 184 itineraries 27, 27 Sagrado 189 Cobá 15, 129-32, 130, 15 customs regulations 251-2 E
Xcalak 13, 138 Cancún 72-88, 74, 75, 77 Samulá 195 Cocomes people 33, 34, 174 Cuzamá 9, 156, 175-6 economy 37-8
boat travel accommodations 79-81 Sima de Las Cotorras 245 colectivo travel 272 cycling 13, 68, 157, 270-1, 13 ecoparks
to/from the Yucatán 270 activities 76-8 snorkeling 64, 100 Columbus, Christopher 33 Punta Sur 7, 114, 7
within the Yucatán 271 emergency services 74 Taj Mahal 78 Comalcalco 230 D Tres Ríos 102
Bonampak 243-6 entertainment 84-5 Tankah 121-2 combi travel 272 dance 46, 254, see also vaquerías Xcaret 118-19
books, see also literature food 81-4 Tekit 175 conservation 61, 62, 63 dangers, see safe travel Xel-Há 120-1
animals 61 internet access 74 Valladolid 7, 194-5, 7 consulates 253 debit cards 257 Edzná 214-16, 215
archaeological sites 48 itineraries 25, 25 Xlacah 183 convents, see monasteries & convents deforestation 63 Ejército Zapatista de Liberación
architecture 48 medical services 74 Zací 194 corals 60 dengue fever 278 Nacional, see Zapatistas
arts 49 safety 76, 78 Chaltún Há 186 Corozal 147 departure tax Ek’ Balam 196-7
shopping 85-6 Champotón 218-19 Corredor Arqueológico 145-7 domestic 271 El Cuyo 200
000 Map pages sights 76-8 Chamulan people 238 Cortés, Hernán 33 international 269 El Tabasqueño 217
000 Photograph pages tourist information 76 Chetumal 140-5, 142 Costa Maya 136-7 Día de la Marina 199 El Tigre 221
tours 78 Chiapa de Corzo 245 costs 20-1, see also inside front cover Día de los Reyes Magos 23, 197, 254 electricity 248
 300 Index (E-H) Index (H-M) 301

email services 255-6 Posadas 254 GreenDex 309 internet resources 41 food 94 language 282-9
embassies 253 Semana Santa (Mérida) 158 Grutas de Balankanché 191 Mérida 34 history 89 courses 105, 157, 208, 235, 251
emergencies, see inside front cover Semana Santa (San Cristóbal de Grutas de Calcehtok 167 Spanish conquest 33-6 internet access 90 food vocabulary 54-7
environment 58-63 Las Casas) 235 Grutas de Loltún 174 War of the Castes 36, 37, 135, medical services 90 glossary 290
environmental issues 62-3 Toh Festival 59 Grutas de San Cristóbal 245 149, 195 sights 90-2 Maya 40, 41, 288
conservation 61 fiestas, see festivals Grutas de Xtacumbilxuna’an 217 hitchhiking 275 tourist information 90 Spanish 282-7
deforestation 61 films 44, 45 guayaberas 164, 259 Hochob 217 travel to/from 95 Yucatec Maya 288-9
global warming 63 fish 60-1 holidays 20, 255, see also festivals travel within 95-6 Las Coloradas 200
internet resources 58, 61 books 61 H honey 11, 218, 260, 11 itineraries 4, 25-9, 4, 25, 26, 27, legal matters 85, 256
oil exploration 63 sharks 13, 92, 97, 137, 12 habanero chilies 52 Hopelchén 216-17 28, 29 lesbian travelers 255
volunteering 69, 264 fishing 69 Habuk 186 Hormiguero 226 beaches 29, 29 Cancún 84
water conservation 63 Akumal 120 haciendas & mansions howler monkeys 60, 132, 134, 221, Campeche state 27, 27 limestone sinkholes, see cenotes
Escárcega 221 Isla Mujeres 92 Casa de Montejo 155 222, 230 Cancún 25, 25 literature 44-5, see also books
events, see festivals Playa del Carmen 105 Hacienda de Tixchel 219 huipiles 40, 46, 164, 259 diving 29, 29 Chilam Balam 21-2, 32, 44
exchange rates, see inside front cover Punta Allen 134 Hacienda La Luz 231 hurricanes 19, 20, 59, 247 Maya civilization 28-9, 28 Popul Vuh 32, 45
flamingos 62, 9 Hacienda Mundaca 90-1 Hurricane Dean 38, 59, 65, 120, Riviera Maya 25, 25 lotería 211
F Reserva de la Biósfera Ría Celestún Hacienda Ochil 167 133, 136-7, 140, 145 snorkeling 29, 29
fauna, see individual animals, birds 9, 62, 179, 181 Hacienda Real de Salinas 181 Hurricane Wilma 37, 59, 62, 64, wildlife watching 28, 28 M
fax services 261 Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka’an Hacienda Yaxcopoil 166-7 99, 108, 112 Iturbide 218 Mahahual 136-7
Felipe Carrillo Puerto 15, 37, 134-6, 135 134 Ruined Haciendas Route 182 Itzá people 32-3, 174 malaria 278
festivals 23, 253-4 Río Lagartos 198-9 hammocks 163, 249, 259 I Ixchel 44 Malpasito 231
Carnaval (Chetumal) 140 Uaymitún 184 handicrafts 46-7, see also clothing immunizations 276 Izamal 185-6 Mama 175
Carnaval (Ciudad del Carmen) 220 floods 228, 247 hats, see panama hats insurance 255 Iztamatul 186 Maní 175
Carnaval (Cozumel) 108 flora, see plants health 276-81 car & motorcycle 270 mansions, see haciendas & mansions
Carnaval (Mérida) 158 food 10-11, 50-7, 254-5, 10-11, see animal bites 280, 281 health 276-8 J maps 256
INDEX

INDEX
Día de la Candelaría 254 also individual locations books 277 internet access 255-6 jaguars 60, 132, 134, 222, 230, marine life 6-7, 60-1, 6-7
Día de la Independencia 254 antojitos 50 children 278 internet resources 24 242, 8 Maya civilization 35
Día de la Marina 199 campechano cuisine 210-11 cholera 279 accommodations bookings 247 Jardín Botánico 102 aluxes 104
Día de la Virgen de Guadalupe 234 children 54 deep vein thrombosis 277 air tickets 267, 268, 269 jet lag 277 architecture 47-9
Día de los Muertos 53, 254 cochinita pibil 11, 51 dengue fever 278 animals 58, 60 jipijapas, see panama hats bloodletting 42
Día de los Reyes Magos 23, 197, festivals 53 DVT 277 bird-watching 68 books 30, 32, 35, 42, 44-5
254 glossary 54-7 heat exhaustion 281 carbon offset schemes 268 K calendar 36, 43, 188
Día de Navidad 254 habanero chilies 52 hepatitis 278-9 culture 39, 41 Kabah 171-2, 171 Classic Maya period 31-2
Día de Nuestra Señora de honey 11, 218, 260, 11 immunizations 276 diving 66 kayaking 66-7, 132 cosmology 41, 141
Guadalupe 23, 208, 254 recados 51 insect bites 280 environmental issues 58, 61 Atasta Peninsula 221 cranial deformation 131
Día de Todos los Santos 254 responsible travel 22 insurance 255, 276-8 health 277 Bahías de Punta Solimán 121 history 31-2, 34-6
Exposición de Altares de los seafood 51 internet resources 277 history 41 Laguna Bacalar 139 internet resources 30, 32, 38, 40
Muertos 158 tamales 50 malaria 278 Maya civilization 30, 32, 38, 40 Rancho Punta Venado 119 itineraries 28-9, 28
Feria de la Primavera y de la vegan travelers 54 medical services 277-8 plants 58 Xcalak 13, 138 piercing 131
Paz 235 vegetarian travelers 54 pregnancy 278 responsible travel 22 Kimbilá 186 Post-Classic Maya period 32-3
Feria de San Román 208 Yucatecan specialties 50-2 rabies 279 snorkeling 66 kiteboarding 13, 67, 183 religion 41-4
Feria de Santiago 199 football 40-1 sun exposure 281 tours 68 Kukulcán 32, 169, 174, 187 Ruta Puuc 172-4
Festival Cervantino Barroco 23, Fox, Vicente 19 travelers diarrhea 280 wildlife watching 59 tattoos 131
235, 254 Frontera Corozál 244, 246 typhoid fever 279 Isla Aguada 219 L World-Tree 41, 42-4
Festival de Nuestra Señora de Fuerte de San Miguel 207 vaccinations 276 Isla Contoy, see Parque Nacional Isla La Venta 231 Xibalbá 41, 42-4
Carmen 23, 220 Fuerte Museo San José del Alto 207 water 248, 280-1 Contoy Labná 173, 173 Maya people 15, 30-2, 34-6, 47,
Festival de Trova Yucateca 158 women travelers 278 Isla Cozumel, see Cozumel Lacandon Jungle 9, 242, 9 178, see also Maya civilization,
Festival del Centro Histórico 208 G Hecelchakán 213-14 Isla de Pájaros 219 Lacandon people 244 language
Fiesta de Flor del Jip 214 galleries, see museums & galleries henequen production 181 Isla Holbox 13, 96-9 Lacanjá Chansayab 245, 246 Maya ruins 23, 76, see also
fiesta of the Virgin of Izamal 185 gay travelers 255 hepatitis 278-9 Isla Mujeres 9, 88-96, 74, 89, 91 Lagos de Montebello 245 archaeological sites
food 53 Cancún 84 hiking 67-8 accommodations 93-4 Laguna Bacalar 13, 139-40, 12 Mayapán 174-5
geography 58 history 30-8, see also Maya civilization activities 90-2 Laguna de Términos 219-20 measures 248, see also inside front
000 Map pages geology 58 books 30, 32 drinking 94-5 Laguna Miramar 245 cover
000 Photograph pages golf 70 colonial period 34 emergency services 90 Laguna Yal-Kú 7, 120 medical services 277-8, see also health
Gran Cenote 129 independence 34-6 entertainment 94-5 Landa, Friar Diego de 35, 175 Mennonite people 216
 302 Index (M-R) I n d e x ( R -T ) 303

Mérida 149-66, 152-3 museums & galleries Parque Chankanaab 113-14 recados 51 Banco Chinchorro 137 tipping 54, 258
accommodations 158-60 Museo Arqueológico de Campeche Parque Nacional Isla Contoy 9, 62, religion 41-4 Cancún 78 Tizimín 197-8
drinking 162 207 96, 8 reservas de la biósfera, see biosphere cenotes 64, 100 Toh Festival de Aves de Yucatán
emergency services 149 Museo Arqueológico del Camino Parque Nacional Palenque 240 reserves Cozumel 64-6, 112, 113 23
festivals 158 Real 213 Parque Nacional Tulum 62 responsible travel 22, 62, 268 Gran Cenote 129 Tohcok 217
food 160-2 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo 155 Parque Punta Sur 7, 114, 7 culutral considerations 39, 231, internet resources 66 toilets 262
history 149 Museo de Arte Popular de Yucatán passports 248, 266, see also visas 258 Isla Mujeres 91 Toltec people 32, 187, 188, 189
internet access 151 156-7 peoples diving 64, 66, 67 itineraries 29, 29 Toniná 245
medical services 151 Museo de Arte Sacro 184 Aztec 33 flamingos 198 Laguna Bacalar 139 tourist cards 263
money 151 Museo de Historia Natural 228 Chamulan 238 GreenDex 309 Mahahual 136-7 tourist information 262
safety 153 Museo de la Arquitectura Maya 205 Cocom 33, 34, 174 internet resources 22 Parque Nacional Isla Contoy 96 tours 275
shopping 164 Museo de la Ciudad (Campeche) 205 Itzá 32-3, 174 snorkeling 64, 66 Playa del Carmen 104 alternative tourism 68, 99
sights 153-7 Museo de la Ciudad (Chetumal) 143 Lacandon 244 restaurants, see individual locations, Puerto Morelos 100 Atasta Peninsula 221
tourist information 153 Museo de la Cultura Maya 141-2 Maya 15, 30-2, 34-6, 47, 178 food Punta Allen 134 bird-watching 157
tours 157-8 Museo de la Guerra de Castas 179 Mennonite 216 Río Bec ruins 13, 226, 13 Rancho Punta Venado 119 Campeche 208
travel to/from 164-6 Museo de la Isla de Cozumel 110-12 Olmec 30 Río Lagartos 198-9 responsible snorkeling 64, 66 Cancún 78
travel within 166 Museo de la Medicina Maya 235 Toltec 32, 187, 188, 189 Riviera Maya 99-132, 100 Tankah 121-2 Celestún 180
meteorites 31 Museo de los Grandes Maestros del Tzeltal 244 itineraries 25, 25 Tulum 122-3 cycling 157
metric conversions, see inside front Arte Mexicano 185 Tzotzil 238, 244 dive sites 65 with whale sharks 92 day trips 79, 156, 175
cover Museo de San Roque 194 Xiú 33, 34, 154 road distances map 273 Xcalak 137-8 DIY trips 79, 156, 175, 186, 231,
Mexican Revolution 37, 179 Museo de Sitio 240 phone cards 260 robbery 252-3 soccer 40-1 245
Mexico Museo del Ámbar de Chiapas 235 photography 258 Ruinas de Mayapán 33, 49, 174-5 solo travelers 260 hiking 68
border crossings 269 Museo del Pueblo Maya 183 cultural considerations 39, 231, Ruta Puuc 156, 172-4 Spanish conquest 33-6 internet resources 68
Misol-Ha 245 Museo Inah 76 258 spider monkeys 60, 61, 102, 132 kayaking 157-8
mobile phones 260 Museo Jsotz’ Levetik 238 pirates 90, 109, 179 S sports 40-1, see also baseball, football, Mérida 157
INDEX

INDEX
monasteries & convents Museo Regional de Antropología in Campeche 15, 205, 207 Sabancuy 219 golf, soccer Playa del Carmen 105
Convento de San Antonio de Padua 156 planning 20-4, 253, see also itineraries sacbeob 129, 131 street signs, Mérida 157 Reserva de la Biósfera Ría Celestún
185-6 Museo y Galería de Arte Popular 205 holidays 255 safe travel 172 sustainable travel, see also responsible 180
Convento de San Francisco de Na Bolom 234 plants 61-2 beaches 78, 252 travel Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka’an
Asís 184 Regional Anthropology Museum 228 internet resources 58 hitchhiking 275 GreenDex 309 134
Convento de Sisal 193-4 music 45-6 Playa del Carmen 102-8, 103 robbery 252-3 sweat lodges 42 Río Lagartos 198-9
Oxkutzcab Franciscan mission population 40 theft 252-3 swimming, see beaches snorkeling with whale sharks
179 N Popul Vuh 32, 45 San Cristóbal de Las Casas 231-8, 92
Templo & Ex-Convento de Santo national marine parks 62 porfiriato 35, 36 232-3 T Uxmal 170
Domingo 234 national parks & reserves 62, see postal services 258-9 San Felipe 200-1 Tabasco 228-31, 229 Xpujil 225
Tizimín Franciscan monastery 197 also biosphere reserves pottery 259 San Gervasio 114-15 floods 228, 247 train travel 275
money 20-1, 253, 257-8, see also Parque Nacional Isla Contoy 9, Progreso 13, 183-4 San Juan Chamula 238 talking cross 15, 37, 41, 135 tramping, see hiking
inside front cover 62, 96, 8 prostitution 85 San Lorenzo Zinacantán 238 Santuario de la Cruz Parlante traveler’s checks 257
monkeys 60 Parque Nacional Palenque 240 public holidays 20, 255 San Miguel de Cozumel 111 136 travelers diarrhea 280
howler 132, 124, 221, 222, 230 Parque Nacional Tulum 62 Puerto Morelos 99-102 Santa Elena 171 Tankah 121-2 trekking, see hiking
spider 61, 102, 132 newspapers 248 Punta Allen 134 Santuario de la Cruz Parlante 136 taxes 54, 248, 257-8 Tres Ríos 102
Montejo, Francisco de 34, 149, 154, Nuevo Durango 79 Punta Bete 102 Sayil 172-3 departure tax 269, 271 Tulum 15, 122-8, 123, 16
174, 193, 203 Punta Laguna 132-3 scams 122, 146 Teabo 175 ruins 15, 124-6, 125, 16
motorcycle travel 269-71 O Punta Molas 114 Selva de Norte 62 Teapa 231 turtles 61, 92
driving distances map 273 Obrador, Andrés Manuel López 19 Punta Sur (Cozumel) 7, 114, 7 Selva Lacandona 9, 242, 9 Tekax 175, 179 Bahías de Punta Solimán 121
insurance 270 Ocosingo 245 Punta Sur (Isla Mujeres) 91 Semana Santa 23, see also Tekit 175 Banco Chinchorro 137
motorcycle rental 274 oil production 37-8, 220 festivals Telchac Puerto 184-5 Isla Mujeres 92
road conditions 274-5 Olmec people 30 Q sharks 13, 92, 97, 137, 12 telephone services 260-2 Laguna de Términos 219-20
road rules 275 Oxkutzcab 175, 178-9 Quetzalcóatl 32, 33, 49, 169, 174, shopping 259-60, see also individual temescales 42 Paamul 119
to/from the Yucatán 269-71 187 locations textiles, see clothing, handicrafts Punta Allen 134
within the Yucatán 272-5 P Quintana Roo 71-147, 73 sinkholes, see cenotes theft 76, 122, 153, 252-3 turtle farms 92
Paamul 119 sisal production 181 Thompson, Edward 188, 189 TV 248
000 Map pages Palenque 15, 238-43, 239 R snorkeling 6-7, 64-6, 6 Ticul 15, 176-8, 176 typhoid fever 279
000 Photograph pages ruins 15, 240-2, 241, 14 rabies 279 Akumal 120 Tihosuco 179 Tzeltal people 244
panama hats 46-7, 164, 214, 259 Rancho Punta Venado 119 Bahías de Punta Solimán 121 time 262, 310-11 Tzotzil people 238, 244
 © Lonely Planet Publications
304 I n d e x ( U - Z )

U water, drinking 248, 280-1 windsurfing 67, 183

Uaymitún 184 water sports 78, see also diving, women travelers 264
USA kayaking, kiteboarding, health 278
border crossings 269 snorkeling, windsurfing work 265
Uxmal 167-71, 168 weather 20, 251 volunteering 69, 264
websites, see internet resources
V weights 248, see also inside front cover X
vacations 20, 255 whale sharks 13, 92, 97, 12 Xcalak 13, 137-9
vaccinations 276 wildlife 59-62, see also individual Xcambó 184
Valladolid 193-6, 194 animals, birds, bird-watching, Xcaret 118-19
cenotes 7, 194-5, 7 plants, wildlife watching Xel-Há 120-1
vaquerías 46 wildlife watching 23, 68-9, see Xiú people 33, 34, 154
vegan travelers 54 also biosphere reserves, national Xlapak 173
vegetarian travelers 54 parks & reserves Xpu-há 119
Vernal Equinox 23 Bahías de Punta Solimán 121 Xpujil 224-6
Vicente Guerrero 218 Calakmul 9, 62, 222 xtabentún 52
video systems 258 internet resources 59
Villahermosa 228-30 itineraries 28, 28 Y
visas 262-4, see also passports Laguna de Términos 219-20 Yaxchilán 243-6
Belize 146 Punta Laguna 132-3 Yotholín 175
tourist cards 263 Reserva de la Biósfera Pántanos de Yucatán state 148-201, 150-1
VOIP 262 Centla 230-1
volunteering 69, 264 Reserva de la Biósfera Sian Ka’an Z
9, 62, 133-4 Zapatistas 231, 234, 236
W Río Lagartos 198-9 ziplining 69, 132
INDEX

INDEX
walking, see hiking Selva Lacandona 9, 242, 9 Zoh-Laguna 224, 225
War of the Castes 36, 37, 135, 149, 193 volunteering 69 Zona Libre 147
Museo de la Guerra de Castas 179 Xcalak 138 zoos 156

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