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MCHF Build Guide

The McHF radio is a QRP amateur radio transceiver designed to be cheap and customizable via software updates. It uses direct conversion architecture with a microcontroller for control and DSP. The document provides detailed instructions on building each section of the radio in stages and testing procedures.

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
203 views

MCHF Build Guide

The McHF radio is a QRP amateur radio transceiver designed to be cheap and customizable via software updates. It uses direct conversion architecture with a microcontroller for control and DSP. The document provides detailed instructions on building each section of the radio in stages and testing procedures.

Uploaded by

宛俊
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 28

2015

McHF QRP Transceiver


Build Guide
FOR RF BOARD 0.4 AND UI BOARD 0.4
W1BAW BRUCE WATTENDORF
MCHF Build Guide

Description of radio and what to expect.

What you need to build

What you might want to get to make it easier.

Start building

Power section

On the Rf board solder F1, D1, C27, R11,R12, C30, R10, R13, R14, D2, U5, C28, C29 , U4, U3 , J1

Test by connecting up 12 volts to J1

Computer

Apply the firmware

Build the audio Codex

Build the local oscillator

Build the RX mixer

Build the Bandpass filter section

Build the antenna switching


The McHF radio is a QRP Amateur radio transceiver. It is a small, home-brew amateur radio project. It
was designed to be as cheap as possible – without sacrificing functionality – and include the ability to
add new features via simple software updates.

The choice of architecture is a direct conversion receiver and transmitter, with a small micro-
controller to provide control and DSP functions. The analog blocks in this implementation were
kept to the bare minimum. Shifting, as much as possible, functionality into the digital domain.

The receiver features: a SN74CBT3253C Tayloe detector as a direct conversion mixer – Local
Oscillator frequency is four times higher than the receive frequency; a digitally switched band
pass filter; voltage controlled attenuator and pre-amp situated in the RF signal path before the
actual direct conversion process. The resulting IQ audio signals from the detector are sent to
the WM8731 Codec for conversion to digital data, and then via I2S bus to the STM32F4
controller. The decoding of the different modes (SSB,AM and CW) is then performed by DSP
routines inside the CPU. Finally, processed audio is sent back to the CODEC chip and
outputted via the speaker or LINE OUT output.

The transmitter uses a reverse process of mixing four channels of audio data with the LO signal.
The result is amplified by the linear amplifier and passed via digitally switched LPFs into the
antenna output. As with the receiver, the CODEC processes audio from a microphone or LINE
IN to convert it to digital data where it is sent on to the CPU for DSP processing. Here IQ data is
generated and sent back to the CODEC. When in CW mode, software defined DDS is used to
generate side-tone, controlled by an iambic keyer. Resulting IQ data is sent in the same way to
the CODEC for conversion to analog signals and passed on to the tx mixer.
The architecture so far is no different than similar direct conversion QRP kits and projects. I
have tried to further ‘digitise’ the design and add some ideas which might prove to be useful
over time:

• Temperature sensor on the I2C bus, attached physically to the local oscillator(SI570).
Small tcxo routine in the firmware can help improve the frequency stability for digital
modes
• Voltage controlled physical attenuator in front of the RF pre-amp, controlled by the CPU
built in DAC, hopefully providing better control over strong signals
• Digitally controlled BIAS for the final linear amplifier – simple PTT control, and no need
for unreliable analog trimmer pots
• LPF switching via latch relays – lower power consumption avoiding thermal strain on the
contacts
• Keypad with each button connected to separate GPIO pin instead of scanning matrix
keyboard – lower noise and intermodulation products
• Single CPU clock of 16Mhz, well outside of ham bands for the fundamental and
harmonics, TCXO with high stability
• CODEC main clock provided by the CPU PLL, high stability, very suitable for digital
modes
• Constant LCD brightness, to avoid using TIMER PWM output, another way to avoid
stray interference from the CPU to sensitive RF parts
• And finally simple power on/power off circuit, fully soft controlled, virtually no current
draw when the transceiver is off.

A really good description of software defined radio can be found on DH1TW’s web site here

There is a McHF Yahoo support group that was started by Andy (G6LBQ) here.

Most questions and updates can be found there.

Availability of parts
The Boards and LCD displays can be purchased from Chris M0NKA on the McHF web site. HERE

There is no kits or one place for all the components yet. On the Yahoo group there is BOM “bill of
materials” lists as well as lists on the McHF site. The list is at the end of this document but does not list
the part suppliers part numbers only the manufacture part number.

Most of the rest of the parts can be obtained from Farnell in the UK and Europe.

From Mouser and Digikey in the USA. Some of the power and audio jacks will need to be bought from
the UK from Farnell because there is no US suppliers as of this documents date.

From the Author

This document was written by Bruce Wattendorf W1BAW and I got the design from Robbie WB5RVZ and
his site WB5RVZ.org whish is a SoftRock build guide site. I can be contacted by email at
[email protected].

Rx Circuitry

Description of rx circuit
TX Circuitry

Project Schematic

RX Schematic

TX Schematic

Project Bill of Materials


Add links to bill of materials

Board Layouts
Look for good board layouts pictures for the boards

Ensemble RXTX Detailed Build Notes


For the non-expert builders among us, this site takes you through a stage-by-stage build of
the kit. Each stage is self-contained and outlines the steps to build and test the stage. This
ensures that you will have a much better chance of success once you reach the last step,
since you will have successfully built and tested each preceding stage before moving on to the
next stage.

Each stage is listed below, in build order, and you can link to it by clicking on its name below
(or in the header and/or footer of each web page).

• Build and Test the Power Supply stage.


• Build and Test the Micro processor stage.
• Build and Test the Audio stage.
• Build and Test the Local Oscillator stage.
• Build and Test the Dividers stage.
• Build and Test the RF I/O and Switching stage.
• Build and Test the RX Mixer (QSD) stage.
• Build and Test the RX Opamps and Output stage.

Stage-By-Stage Testing
Each stage will have a "Testing" Section, outlining one or more tests that, when successfully
completed, provide you with the confidence and assurance that you are heading in the right
direction towards a fully tested and built transceiver.

When you perform a test, you should always record the results of the test where indicated in
the Testing section. This will make troubleshooting via the reflector much easier, since you
will be communicating with the experts using a standard testing and measurement regime.

When comparing measurements to those published in these notes, the builder should be
aware that actual and expected values could vary by as much as +/- 10%. The idea behind
furnishing "expected/nominal" measurement values is to provide the builder with a good,
"ballpark" number to determine whether or not the test has been successful. If the
builder has concerns about his measurements, he should by all means pose those
concerns as a query in the MCHF Yahoo group so others can provide assistance.

It goes without saying that you should ALWAYS precede any tests with a very careful,
minute inspection (using the best light and magnification available to you) to be sure all
solder joints are clean and there are no solder bridges or cold joints.

This radio can be built and reliably tested using nothing more than a common multimeter.
Tests assume that the builder has a decent digital multimeter of sufficiently high input
impedance as to minimize circuit loading issues. Measurements will be taken of current
draws, test point voltages, and resistances.

Most stages will have a current draw test, in which the builder tests the stage's current
draw in two different ways:

• First, testing the draw through a current-limiting resistor


• Then, when that test is OK, removing the current-limiting resistor and measuring
the real current draw.

Some tests will require you to use your ham radio to receive or generate a signal of a
specified frequency in order to test transmitters, oscillators, dividers, and/or receivers.
Optional testing. If the builder has (access to) a dual channel oscilloscope, along with an
audio signal generator and an RF signal generator, and feels the need to perform tests
beyond the basic DMM tests, certain stages will include in their testing section some
optional tests involving this advanced equipment.

The IQGen or DQ-Gen programs available free from Michael Keller, DL6IAK, can be used in
a pinch to get the sound card to produce audio tones for injection into the circuit.

Completed RF board
Top View

Bottom View

Completed UI board
Top View

Bottom View

Background Info

Component Identification

After soldering problems, the most common cause of trouble in radio building is the
installation of the incorrect component. Most often this is the case with resistors (hint - if
voltage or current draw tests are way out of whack, suspect resistors or solder bridges).
Invest in a cheap multimeter and MEASURE the resistance.

Soldering

If you are not experienced at soldering (and even if you are somewhat experienced at
soldering), refer to excellent tutorial on basic soldering techniques by Tom Hammond N0SS
(SK).

This video provides some excellent hints at soldering (and de-soldering)


SMT components:
The video below describes techniques for soldering SOIC 14 (and 16 and 8) SMDs

View the above in full-screen mode on Youtube.

You may also want to review the information from the HamNation series on George, W5JDX,
and his build of the Softrock Ensemble RXTX which the MCHF was based off of. He uses an
inexpensive heat gun and Solder paste to install SMT capacitors and ICs. The Session where he
introduces the process is in Episode #70 at 36 minutes, 30 seconds into the podcast.

For the more adventurous, there is a process using solder paste and an electric oven called
the reflow process, which can be used to install all the SMT chips to one side of the PC Board.
This is documented by Guenael Jouchet in the following Youtube segment:
• Read the Primer on SMT Soldering at the Sparkfun site. It is a very good read and it
speaks great truths. Then take the time to watch the video tutorial on soldering an
SOIC SMD IC.
• Solder Stations. Don't skimp here. Soldering deficiencies account for 80 percent of the
problems surfaced in troubleshooting. It is preferable to have an ESD-safe station, with
a grounded tip. A couple of good stations that are relatively inexpensive are:

Velleman VTSS5U 50W Solder Station (approx $25 at Frys) (See BGMicro for
Spare Tips)

o
Hakko (Aoyue) 936 ESD Solder Station (under $100)

ESD Protection

• Avoid carpets in cool, dry areas.


• Leave PC cards and memory modules in their anti-static packaging until ready to be
installed.
• Dissipate static electricity before handling any system components (PC cards, memory
modules) by touching a grounded metal object, such as the system unit unpainted
metal chassis.
• If possible, use antistatic devices, such as wrist straps and antistatic mats (see Radio
Shack's Set for $25 or the JameCo AntiStatic mat for $15)).
• Always hold a PC card or memory module by its edges. Avoid touching the contacts
and components on the memory module.
• Before removing chips from insulator, put on the wrist strap connected to the ESD
mat. All work with CMOS chips should be done with the wrist strap on.
• As an added precaution before first touching a chip, you should touch a finger to a
grounded metal surface.
• If using a DMM, its outside should be in contact with the ground of the ESD mat, and
both leads shorted to this ground before use.
• See the review of ESD Precautions at this link.

Work Area

• You will need a well-lit work area and a minimum of 3X magnification (the author uses
a cheap magnifying fluorescent light with a 3X lens. This is supplemented by a hand-
held 10 X loupe - with light - for close-in inspection of solder joints and SMT
installation.
• You should use a cookie sheet or baking pan (with four sides raised approximately a
half an inch) for your actual work space. It is highly recommended for building on top
of in order to catch stray parts, especially the tiny SMT chips which, once they are
launched by an errant tweezer squeeze, are nigh on impossible to find if they are not
caught on the cookie sheet.

Misc Tools

• It is most important to solidly clamp the PCB in a holder when soldering. A "third-hand"
(e.g., Panavise or the Hendricks kits PCB Vise) can hold your board while soldering. In
a pinch, you can get by with a simple third-hand, alligator clip vise. Jan G0BBL
suggests "A very cheap way is to screw a Large Document Clip to a woodblock which
will clamp the side of a PCB."
• Tweezers (bent tip is preferable).
• A toothpick and some beeswax - these can be used to pickup SMT devices and hold
them steady while soldering.
• Diagonal side cutters.
• Small, rounded jaw needle-nose pliers.
• Set of jewelers' screwdrivers
• An Exacto knife.
• Fine-grit emery paper.
• Magnifying Head Strap, or +2 to +3 reading glasses, or USB microscope (can be bought
on Ebay for less them $100.00 usd.
• 12 volt DC power supply with power meter used to measure current.

If you are going to be using the hot air gun method then the following is recommended

• solder paste can be bought from kd5ssj.com his site also has some very good tips
• hot air gun embossing guns can be bought from Ebay or amazon for less then $20.00
USD or a professional hot air gun made for SMT electronic rework can be found for less
then $100.00 USD. The embossing gun can blow the parts out of alignment because of
the air pressure where the profession air rework station normally has adjust air
pressure.
Parts 1 McHF – RF 0.4 Power Supply
Introduction
General Info about the Stage

In this first (and following) stages, the builder should remember that one of the most common
causes of errors is soldering. It pays to review materials on soldering, get help from Elmers, or
whatever you can do to make your solder joints as clean and properly conductive as possible!

The second most common cause of errors is installation of the WRONG component and/or
installing the component in the wrong ORIENTATION. The old rule of "measure twice, cut
once" clearly applies to this project. When you order the parts it is recommended that you
don’t remove the parts from the bags they come in till you are ready to solder them and also
replace any not used back in the bag to reduce this issue.

The remaining one-tenth of one percent of the causes of errors is the defective component -
most suspect the component immediately; the intelligent rarely look first at possible
component failure.

Theory of Operation
mcHF uses a chain of linear regulators to provide all needed voltages. The top one is software
controlled from the MCU. Linear regulators chain was chosen against switching supply for simplicity
and easier EMC management.

F1 is a poly fuse that will reset when triggered, also D1 is there to prevent damage from
reverse voltage.

Note that there are actually four power busses:

Voltages needed by mcHF – 12V for final PA, 8V for the speaker amp and TX quad preamp, 5V for
most of the RF modules, LCD etc. and 3.3V for the digital logic – MCU and Codec. The main
concern here is the voltage drop in the chain to be as small as possible because eventually it is
converted to heat. As the first two regulators use the output PA transistors heatsink, this is a
concern. So the drop in U3 is 12 – 8.5 = 3.5 V, the drop in U4 is 8.5 – 5 = 3.5 V and finally U5 drop is
5 – 3.3 = 1.7 V.

The way power up works is by holding the U3 INHIBIT pin high from the incoming 12V supply via
divider R9/R10. The idle voltage is 2.6V, enough to keep the regulator in OFF mode and not give to
much reverse current to the MCU GPIOs connected via D2. Pressing the power button on the UI pcb
will provide low level to the pin 3 of U3, which will put the U3 in ON state, which in turn will cause the
MCU to boot and execution of the startup firmware routines will provide constant low level to D2 and
keep the U3 ON. Power off is just switching MCU GPIO pin to high and powering off the whole
regulator chain.

The RF board uses 12 volts DC tip positive.


Summary Build Notes
1. Install Topside Components
2. Test the Stage

Stage Schematic

Click here for full schematic

Board Layouts
Board Top

Board Bottom
Power Supply Bill of Materials

Check Desig. Description Component Image

F1 Fuse Fuse

F1 Fuse Fuse 1206

R9 Resistor 15K

R9 Resistor 15K 0805

Tanalum
C30 22uF
Capacitor
C30 Tantalum Capacitor 22uF 1206

R12 Resistor 5.6K

R12 Resistor 5.6K 0805

R11 Resistor 1k

R11 Resistor 1K 0805

R10 Resistor 4.7K

R10 Resistor 4.7K 0805

D1 Diode Schottky PMEG6010CEH


DIODE, SCHOTTKY,
D1 1A, 60V, SOD-123F PMEG6010CEH SOD87
LDO Voltage Reg.
U5
3.3V
LDO VOLT REG, 3.3V,
U5 TO-252 See Notes TO-252

R11 Resistor 1K

R11 Resistor 1K 0805

D2 Diode Schottky BAT54A


DIODE, SCHOTTKY,
D2 DUAL BAT54A SOT-23

Tantalum
C29 10uF
Capacitor
1206_Elec_C
C29 Tantalum Capacitor 10uF ap

C27 Electric Capacitor 100uF

C27 Electrolytic capacitor 100uF CAP_ALUM

LDO Volt Reg


U5
3.3V
LDO VOLT REG, 3.3V,
U5 TO-252 See Notes TO-252

U3 V Reg Adj +5/20V LM2941CT


V REG ADJ +5/20V,
U3 2941, TO-220-5 LM2941CT TO-220-5

U4 Voltage Reg 40V MC7805BTG


VOLTAGE REG, 40V,
U4 TO220-3 MC7805BTG TO-220
P1 Header 30-Pin Header 30

P1 Header, 30-Pin Header 30 HDR1X30

Go to Top of Page

Detailed Build Steps


Step_Install Topside Components
Depending on how you decide to solder the parts by hand using solder
and iron, or using solder paste and heat gun, or hot plate will depend
on if you just solder part by part or a bunch at a time.

I am going to show using solder paste in this part since I think it is new
to most.

To solder using paste first making sure you have the right
parts using the BOM. Then take the syringe of paste and
add a dab about the size of a Hersey kiss (at first little is
better). If you get any paste in the wrong spot you can
use rubbing alcohol to clean it up. Then once paste is on each pad that
is getting parts place each part making sure they are the right
orientation. When you apply heat the part will move
a little bit into position (neat to watch). Then apply
heat but watch out depending on the hot air gun you
use the part might get moved. You will see the paste
turn to a liquid and then will go bright silver. Then
move to the next part until the parts are all
soldered.
So with that out of the way, let’s start adding parts.

Add F1, R9, R12, R11, R10, R15, R13, R15a, R14, and C31 you don’t
have to worry about which way they go as long as they are on both
pads.

Now let’s add the parts that orientation does matter. C30, C28, D1,
C29, U6, C27
This is C30 Look for the + on
parts that have polarity this
is a capacitor.

This is the positive side of


the capacitor.
This is D1 on the RF power supply
board it is tough to see but the lines
get lined up with the top of the
silkscreen

This is U6 which is the opto isolator


for the push to talk circuit. See the
dot is what you need to line up

Here is C27 it is an Electrolytic


Capacitor (I hate soldering these) you
need to line up the diagonal sides
with the silkscreen. (They are easier
to solder with a hot air gun then an
iron).
C28 and C29 are just like C30

Check Desig. Description Component Image

F1 Fuse Fuse

F1 Fuse Fuse 1206

R9 Resistor 15K

R9 Resistor 15K 0805

Tanalum
C30 22uF
Capacitor
C30 Tantalum Capacitor 22uF 1206

R12 Resistor 5.6K

R12 Resistor 5.6K 0805

R11 Resistor 1k

R11 Resistor 1K 0805

R10 Resistor 4.7K


R10 Resistor 4.7K 0805
D1 Diode Schottky PMEG6010CEH
DIODE, SCHOTTKY,
D1 1A, 60V, SOD-123F PMEG6010CEH SOD87

LDO Voltage Reg.


U5
3.3V
LDO VOLT REG, 3.3V,
U5 TO-252 See Notes TO-252

R11 Resistor 1K

R11 Resistor 1K 0805

D2 Diode Schottky BAT54A


DIODE, SCHOTTKY,
D2 DUAL BAT54A SOT-23

Tantalum
C29 10uF
Capacitor
1206_Elec_C
C29 Tantalum Capacitor 10uF ap

C27 Electric Capacitor 100uF

C27 Electrolytic capacitor 100uF CAP_ALUM

LDO Volt Reg


U5
3.3V
LDO VOLT REG, 3.3V,
U5 TO-252 See Notes TO-252

U3 V Reg Adj +5/20V LM2941CT


V REG ADJ +5/20V,
U3 2941, TO-220-5 LM2941CT TO-220-5
U4 Voltage Reg 40V MC7805BTG
VOLTAGE REG, 40V,
U4 TO220-3 MC7805BTG TO-220

P1 Header 30-Pin Header 30

P1 Header, 30-Pin Header 30 HDR1X30

Now add parts you need to hand solder. Jack, Header, U5, U3……

Completed Photos
Note: the completed pictures are of the 40m option, which the author
built. Other band options (which the author did not build) will appear
slightly different (especially the inductors, whose windings and cores
will vary by band) for the band-specific components.

Also note that this board was a pre-production board and some
component placements are slightly different from those on the
production boards.

View of Completed Topside

View of Completed Underside


Progressive Schematic
Where are we in our progress towards the finish line? Click here to
view the entire schematic with the completed stages shaded in a
yellowish tinge and the remaining stages tinted in blue (the current
stage is untinted).

Test the Power Supply Stage


Power Supply - Current draw
Before applying power for the first time, test the resistance across the
12V power rail (positive lead at the point marked for the non-hairpin
end of R52; negative lead on a convenient ground (see diagram
below)). You should see a very high resistance (over 50 k ohms) and it
should climb (as the electrolytic capacitors charge up with the
ohmmeter's voltage). Ultimately, you should see an extremely high (or
infinite) resistance.

Once you have successfully passed the resistance test, put your mA
meter in series with the input voltage positive line and measure the
current draw of the power supply.

See Tutorial on Measuring Current for an illustration of how to measure


current in a circuit.
Go to Top of Page

Test Steps (if any)


Step Test Point UOM Nominal Author's Builder's
2 Current draw mA <8 4.5

Go to Top of Page

Power Supply - Voltage Tests


Power up the board with a 12V supply (no limiting resistor) and
measure the voltage at the test points indicated.

(Author's measurements below were taken using power from a gel cel
whose voltage measured 12.9V)

Voltage measurements are WRT regular ground. For this test you can
use the "hairpin" of R50 as a convenient regular ground test point.
Go to Top of Page

Test Steps (if any)


Step Test Point UOM Nominal Author's Builder's
Hairpin lead
5 (+/-
0 (hole) of R61 V dc 4.94
2%)
(wrt ground)
Hairpin lead
of D4 (wrt
1 V dc 12 12.3
ground) -
(with 12.9 V
gelcell)

Parts 2 McHF – UI 0.4 CPU


Introduction
General Info about the Stage

This stage installs the CPU, buttons, rotary encoders, and LCD screen. It will also cover installing the
boot loader and firmware. This will present the most difficult SMT soldering challenge to the builder.
We will also cover the many different ways to solder the main CPU chip.

Theory of Operation

Summary Build Notes


1. Install Topside Capacitors
2. Install SMT Components
3. Install Topside Connector
4. Test the Stage

Stage Schematic

Board Layouts
UI board CPU section Bill of Materials
Detailed Build Steps

Step_1 Install CPU..

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