19607486-1982-1990 Chevrolet Blazer Service and Repair Manual
19607486-1982-1990 Chevrolet Blazer Service and Repair Manual
Chevrolet Blazer
2.8L V6 - VIN [R]
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
NOTE: For engine repair procedures not covered in this article, see ENGINE
OVERHAUL PROCEDURES - GENERAL INFORMATION article in the GENERAL
INFORMATION section.
The engine identification number is stamped on a machined pad on front of cylinder block to rear of engine
front cover. The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is located on left side of dash panel at base of windshield.
The eighth character of VIN denotes engine type.
ADJUSTMENTS
VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
Valve Arrangement
1. Rotate crankshaft to bring No. 1 piston to TDC of compression stroke. Both No. 1 valves will be closed.
Back off adjusting nut until lash (play) is felt at push rod. See Fig. 1.
2. Tighten nut until all lash is removed. Tighten adjusting nut an additional 1 1/2 turns. Adjust valves using
sequence listed in VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT table.
3. Rotate crankshaft 360 degrees to bring No. 4 piston to TDC of compression stroke. Adjust remaining
valves and replace rocker arm covers.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure must be
relieved before disconnecting fuel lines on fuel injected models.
Place transmission gear selector in Park (Neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block drive
wheels. Although fuel pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to relieve tank
pressure. To further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a shop rag while
removing fuel lines.
ENGINE
1. Place transmission gear selector in Park (Neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block
drive wheels. Although fuel pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to
relieve tank pressure. To further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a
shop rag while removing fuel lines.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure
must be relieved as outlined in step 1).
2. Disconnect battery. Remove hood and air cleaner. Drain cooling system. Remove radiator hoses,
transmission cooler lines (if equipped) and upper fan shroud. Remove radiator and fan and heater hoses.
Label and disconnect all vacuum hoses at engine. Disconnect throttle cable and cruise control cables (if
equipped).
3. Disconnect ground wires and cables, main feed wires and any necessary wiring at firewall. Remove
distributor cap. Raise vehicle. Disconnect exhaust pipe at converter and both manifolds. Remove strut
rods, flywheel inspection cover and torque converter bolts.
4. Remove converter hanger at exhaust pipe and rear shield. Disconnect fuel lines and hoses. Remove 2
outer air dam bolts and lower fan shroud. Remove left body mount bolts and raise body to remove
bellhousing bolts. Lower body and remove motor mount through bolts.
5. Disconnect A/C compressor and power steering pump from engine and set aside (if equipped). Attach lift
equipment to engine. Support transmission and carefully remove engine from vehicle.
1. Place transmission gear selector in Park. Set parking brake and block drive wheels. Although fuel
pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to relieve tank pressure. To
further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a shop rag while removing
fuel lines.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure
must be relieved as outlined in step 1).
2. Remove hood. Disconnect battery and underhood light. Raise vehicle. On utility vehicles, remove body
mounts. On chassis cab models, loosen and remove 2 front body mounts. On all models, remove front air
dam end bolts.
3. Raise body above frame and remove top transmission-to-engine bolts. Lower body to frame. Remove
remaining transmission-to-engine bolts. Unbolt and remove No. 2 crossmember. Disconnect exhaust pipe
at manifolds. Disconnect catalytic converter hanger.
4. Remove front drive shaft at differential. Remove bellhousing cover. Unclip automatic transmission cooler
lines at engine. Remove motor mount bolts and flex plate-to-converter bolts. Remove front splash shield
(if equipped) and lower fan shroud. Lower vehicle.
5. Drain cooling system. Remove upper fan shroud and radiator hoses. Disconnect automatic transmission
cooler lines at radiator. Remove radiator, fan, and air cleaner. Remove A/C compressor and power
steering pump from engine and set aside (if equipped).
6. Disconnect fuel lines and hoses. Disconnect vacuum and emission hoses from engine. Disconnect
accelerator, throttle valve, and cruise control cables (if equipped). Disconnect engine wiring harness at
firewall.
7. Disconnect heater hoses at engine. Disconnect any remaining wiring from engine. Attach hoist to engine
and support transmission securely. Remove engine.
1. Place transmission gear selector in Neutral. Set parking brake and block drive wheels. Although fuel
pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to relieve tank pressure. To
further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a shop rag while removing
fuel lines.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure
must be relieved as outlined in step 1).
2. Remove hood and air cleaner. Disconnect battery and underhood light. Drain cooling system and remove
upper fan shroud. Remove radiator hoses, fan and clutch. Remove radiator.
3. Remove A/C compressor and power steering pump (if equipped). Disconnect fuel lines and hoses.
Remove vacuum and heater hoses at engine. Disconnect accelerator and cruise control cables. Disconnect
engine wiring harness, main feed wire, and ground strap at firewall.
4. Remove lower fan shroud. Disconnect battery ground at engine. Remove distributor cap and diverted
valve. Remove shifter boot and console cover. Remove transfer case shifter and transmission shifter.
5. Raise vehicle. Remove front and rear skid plates. Remove front splash shield. Drain transfer case and
transmission. Remove rear drive shaft. Disconnect speedometer cable and front drive shaft. Disconnect
shift linkage and vacuum hoses at transfer case.
6. Disconnect parking brake cable. Remove rear mount and converter bracket. Support transfer case. Unbolt
transfer case and remove from vehicle. Remove crossmember. Disconnect back-up light wiring and clip.
Unbolt slave cylinder and hang to side. Remove transmission. Remove clutch release bearing and
flywheel inspection cover.
7. Remove left side body mounting bolts. Lift left side of body and remove bellhousing. Disconnect exhaust
at manifolds and converter. Disconnect clutch cross shaft at frame. Remove starter. Remove motor mount
bolts. Lower vehicle. Attach lifting device and remove engine.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
Removal
1. Place transmission gear selector in park (neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block
drive wheels. Although fuel pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to
relieve tank pressure. To further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a
shop rag while removing fuel lines.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure
must be relieved as outlined in step 1).
2. Remove air cleaner and negative battery cable. Drain cooling system. Disconnect and label all electrical
connectors, vacuum hoses and cables at distributor, intake manifold and TBI unit.
3. Disconnect fuel line(s), distributor cap and ignition wires. Mark position of rotor and remove distributor.
Remove rocker arm brackets and rocker arm covers.
4. Remove upper radiator hose and heater hose from engine. Remove drive belt and rotate A/C compressor
away from work area. Remove intake manifold and discard gaskets.
Installation
1. Clean gasket mating surfaces. Apply 3/16" bead of silicone sealant to front and rear sealing ridges of
cylinder block. Remove carbon from exhaust and EGR ports.
2. Install new manifold gaskets, following instructions included in gasket set. Secure ends with silicone
sealant. Cut new side gaskets for installation behind push rods.
3. Install intake manifold. Install and tighten manifold attaching bolts and nuts. See Fig. 2. To complete
installation, reverse removal procedure.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
Removal
Remove negative battery cable. Raise vehicle and separate exhaust pipe from manifold. On left side, remove 4
rear manifold bolts and one nut. Lower vehicle. On both sides, disconnect air diverter valve, hoses and wires.
Where necessary, remove power steering pump, air pump and/or alternator, including brackets. Remove right
side exhaust heat shield. Remove left side heat stove. Remove manifold bolts and manifold.
Installation
CYLINDER HEADS
Removal
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure must be
relieved as outlined in step 1).
1. Place transmission gear selector in park (neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block
drive wheels. Although fuel pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to
relieve tank pressure. To further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a
shop rag while removing fuel lines.
2. Remove intake manifold as previously described. Raise vehicle. Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
Lower vehicle. Remove oil dipstick and tube assembly. Remove alternator with bracket. Remove ground
strap from rear of cylinder head and sensor connector from front of head.
3. Remove rocker arms and push rods in sequence for reinstallation in original locations. Remove power
steering pump, air pump and A/C compressor (if equipped), with mounting brackets. Remove cylinder
head bolts and separate cylinder head from engine.
Installation
1. Clean gasket mating surfaces, head bolts and cylinder block threads. Position head gaskets and cylinder
heads on cylinder block. Apply sealant to head bolt threads and install bolts. Tighten bolts in sequence to
40 ft. lbs. (55 N.m). Using a crayon, mark tops of bolts with a vertical line. Tighten bolts in sequence an
additional 90 degrees. See Fig. 2.
2. Coat rocker arm balls and rocker arm mating surfaces with assembly lubricant before installing. To
complete installation, reverse removal procedure and adjust valves.
Removal
1. Remove rocker arm cover, spark plug, rocker arm and push rod of cylinder to be serviced. Install air hose
and adapter to spark plug hole. Apply constant air pressure of 90 psi (6.3 kg/cm2 ).
2. Using a valve spring compressor, compress valve spring and remove valve retainer locks and oil seal.
Release compressor and remove retainer/rotator, oil shield (exhaust only), and valve spring damper. On
intake valves, remove Teflon oil seal.
Inspection
Check valve spring tension. Springs (without dampers) should test within 10 lbs. of specification.
Installation
1. Position valve spring and damper on cylinder head. Install Teflon oil seal on intake valve and oil shield
on exhaust valve. Install retainer/rotator on valve spring.
2. Coat "O" ring type seal and valve stem with engine oil. Compress spring and install seal in lower groove
of valve stem. Ensure seal is not twisted in groove. Install retainer locks and release compressor. Ensure
retainer locks are properly seated in upper groove of valve stem.
Removal
Remove negative battery cable and drive belt. Drain cooling system and remove water pump. Remove A/C
compressor and power steering pump and their mounting bracket (if equipped). Remove vibration damper.
Disconnect lower radiator hose at front cover. Remove front cover retaining bolts. Remove front cover.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure using new gaskets. Ensure water pump bolts are coated with sealant. See
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS at end of this article.
Removal
Oil seal may be replaced with front cover installed. Remove drive belt. Remove vibration damper bolt. Remove
vibration damper. Using large screwdriver, pry seal out of cover. Use care not to damage crankshaft sealing area
or front cover.
Installation
Lubricate and install new seal with open side of seal toward inside of front cover. Use Seal Installer (J-35468)
to drive seal into position. Install vibration damper. Tighten to specification. See TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS at end of this article. Install drive belt.
TIMING CHAIN
Removal
1. Remove front cover as previously described. Rotate crankshaft so timing marks on camshaft and
crankshaft sprockets are aligned. No. 1 piston will be at TDC of exhaust stroke and No. 4 piston will be
TDC of compression stroke. See Fig. 3.
2. Remove camshaft sprocket bolts, sprocket and chain. If camshaft sprocket resists removal, use a soft
faced hammer and lightly tap lower area of sprocket. Avoid letting camshaft or crankshaft turn.
Installation
Install timing chain and camshaft sprocket. Timing marks must be aligned. See Fig. 3. Install remaining
components in reverse order of removal.
CAMSHAFT
Removal
Drain cooling system. Remove radiator. Remove fuel pump, front cover and intake manifold as previously
described. Remove rocker arm assemblies, push rods and valve lifters in sequence for installation in original
locations. Remove timing chain and sprocket. Carefully remove camshaft.
Inspection
Measure camshaft journal diameter and lobe lift. Replace camshaft and lifters if not within specification.
Installation
Lubricate journals with oil and camshaft lobes with assembly lubricant. Carefully install camshaft. If new
camshaft is being installed, new lifters should also be used. Lubricate rocker arm ball and valve contact surface.
To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
All General Motors vehicles require the engine to be lifted or completely removed from the engine
compartment. Remove or disconnect all necessary components for engine removal. Label all hoses and wires
for proper reassembly.
Fig. 4: View of General Motors 2.8L Oil Pan
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Removal
On 2-wheel drive vehicles, remove engine from vehicle. On all vehicles, remove oil pan and oil pump. Remove
cylinder heads as previously described. Place piston at lower end of stroke and cover with cloth to collect
cuttings. Clean ridge or deposits from cylinder bore. Mark connecting rod and cap for installation in original
location and remove. For inspection procedure see ENGINE OVERHAUL PROCEDURES article in this
section.
Installation
1. Install rings on piston and position ring gaps. Refer to Fig. Fig. 6. Apply a light coat of engine oil to
piston, rings and cylinder bore. Compress piston rings with ring compressor.
2. Cover rod bolts with protective rubber hose. Install piston with notch (or machined hole) in piston head,
toward front of engine. Rod bearing tang slot must be positioned away from camshaft. Install rod caps
with bearings and tighten to 39 ft. lbs. (53 N.m).
Removal
Remove piston compression and oil rings. Using Piston Pin Tool (J-24086), press pin from piston and
connecting rod.
Installation
Replace piston and pin assembly if not within specification. Use Piston Pin Tool (J-24086) to press piston pin
into place.
1. Use Plastigage method to check rod bearing clearance. Clean crankshaft journal and bearing seat in rod
and cap. Insert bearings in rod and cap and coat with engine oil. Pull piston and rod assembly onto
crankshaft and install rod cap.
2. After all rods are installed, check side play. Replacement bearings are available in standard, .0005" (.013
mm) and .0010" (.026 mm) undersizes for use with standard size crankshaft.
MAIN BEARINGS
1. Use Plastigage method to check bearings. New bearings are available in standard, .006" (.15 mm)
and .012" (.30 mm) undersizes. Always replace upper and lower bearing halves as a set.
2. Remove main bearings from cylinder block by inserting bearing Remover/Installer (J-8080) in crankshaft
oil hole and rotating crankshaft clockwise. Bearing will be forced from upper bearing saddle. If
remover/installer is unavailable, use a bent cotter pin.
3. Lubricate journal and bearing. Insert plain end of bearing between crankshaft and notched side of block.
With bearing remover/installer in crankshaft oil hole, rotate crankshaft counterclockwise to install
bearing.
4. Install lower bearing half into cap and lubricate with engine oil. Install and tighten main bearing cap with
arrow pointing toward front of engine.
THRUST BEARING ALIGNMENT
1. Install and tighten all main bearing cap bolts, except No. 3, to specification. Tighten No. 3 thrust bearing
cap bolts to 11 ft. lbs. (15 N.m).
2. Tap end of crankshaft back and forth to line up main bearing and crankshaft thrust surfaces. Tighten
thrust bearing cap. Retighten all main bearing cap bolts to specification, including No. 3 thrust bearing.
Rotate crankshaft to conform free movement.
Crankshaft end play after aligning thrust bearing should be .002-.008" (.06-.21 mm).
Removal
Remove transmission and flexplate. Insert a screwdriver through seal dust lip at an angle. Carefully pry out seal.
Installation
1. Apply a light coat of oil to inside diameter of new seal. Install new seal over mandrel of Seal Installer (J-
34686) until dust lip bottoms against collar of tool. Install seal installer to crankshaft and tighten attaching
screws by hand. Ensure dowel pin of seal installer is aligned with dowel pin hole in crankshaft. Refer to
Fig. Fig. 5.
2. Apply light coat of oil to outside diameter of seal. Install seal into bore using seal installer. To complete
installation, reverse removal procedure.
Fig. 5: Installing Rear Main Oil Seal
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
WATER PUMP
Removal
Disconnect negative battery cable. Drain cooling system. Remove hoses from water pump. Remove fan shroud,
drive belt, fan and pulley. Remove water pump bolts and nut.
Installation
Apply 3/32" bead of anaerobic sealer to water pump sealing surface. Coat bolt threads with pipe thread sealer.
Install water pump. Tighten water pump bolts and nut to specification. Install remaining components in reverse
order of removal.
NOTE: For further information on cooling systems, see ENGINE COOLING SYSTEMS
article in ENGINE section.
OVERHAUL
FITTING PISTONS
Cylinder bore taper and out-of-round must not exceed specifications. See ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS tables at
end of this article. If taper or out-of-round are not within limits, rebore cylinders. Replacement pistons are
available in standard, .020" (.50 mm) and .040" (1.0 mm) oversizes. When reboring cylinders, all main bearing
caps must be installed and tightened to specification.
FITTING RINGS
Measure ring end gap with a feeler gauge. See PISTONS, PINS, RINGS table for specifications. Check side
clearance of compression rings with feeler gauge inserted between ring and ring groove. Install and properly
space rings on piston. Oil ring spacer ends must be butted, not overlapped. Note that oil ring spacer anti-rotation
tang is inserted into oil hole (or slot) of piston.
VALVE GUIDES
If valve stem-to-guide clearance exceeds specification, ream valve guide to proper oversize.
If lifters are removed, they must be installed in original positions. Some engines may have both standard
and .010" (.25 mm) oversize valve lifters. Engines with oversize lifters will be marked with a dab of White paint
and "0.25 O.S." stamped on lifter boss. See Fig. 7.
LUBRICATION
CRANKCASE CAPACITY
Crankcase capacity is 4.5 qts. (4.3L) with oil filter replacement, 4.0 qts. (3.8L) without filter replacement.
Normal oil pressure is 10 psi (.7 kg/cm2 ) at 500 RPM and 50-55 psi (3.5-3.9 kg/cm2 ) at 2000 RPM. Oil
pressure should be measured with engine at operating temperature.
The main oil galleries supply oil to left and right bank hydraulic lifters, camshaft bearings and crankshaft. All
other components are lubricated by splash or nozzle method.
OIL PUMP
Removal
With engine removed from vehicle, remove oil pan. Remove bolt attaching oil pump to rear main bearing cap.
Remove oil pump with extension shaft.
Disassembly
1. Remove pump cover. Mark gears at a meshing point so same gear teeth indexing will be present when
reassembled. Remove idler gear, drive gear and shaft from pump body.
2. Remove pressure regulator valve retaining pin, valve and spring. Remove oil inlet tube from body. Do not
remove screen.
NOTE: If pump gears or body are damaged or worn, pump must be replaced.
Inspection
Wash all parts and dry with compressed air. Inspect pump body, pump cover and pump gears for damage or
excessive wear. Check drive gear shaft for looseness in pump body. Inspect oil inlet tube and screen for
damage. Check pressure regulator valve for fit in bore.
Reassembly
1. Install oil inlet tube and screen. Apply sealer to end of tube. Tap tube into place, using plastic hammer.
Install pressure regulator valve, spring and retaining pin.
2. Install idler gear, drive gear and shaft into pump body. Ensure gear teeth previously marked are indexing.
Prime oil pump and install pump cover.
Installation
Assemble pump and extension shaft (with retainer) to rear main bearing cap. Ensure top end of hexagonal
extension shaft engages with hexagonal socket of distributor drive gear. Install and tighten oil pump attaching
bolt.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Camshaft Sprocket Bolts 17 (23)
Connecting Rod Cap Nuts 39 (53)
Cylinder Head Bolts (1)
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS
CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS
Application In. (mm)
Journal Diameter 1.868-1.869 (47.44-47.49)
Oil Clearance .0010-.0040 (.025-.101)
Bearing Bore N/A
Runout N/A
End Play N/A
Lobe Lift
Intake .262 (6.65)
Exhaust .273 (6.94)
Lobe Height N/A
4.3L V6 - VIN [Z]
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
NOTE: For engine repair procedures not covered in this article, see ENGINE
OVERHAUL PROCEDURES - GENERAL INFORMATION article in the GENERAL
INFORMATION section.
Engine can be identified by eighth character of Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). VIN is located on a metal
tag on top left corner of instrument panel. Engine identification number is stamped on a machined pad on front
of cylinder block, immediately forward of right cylinder head.
ADJUSTMENTS
VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT
Valve Arrangement
Rotate engine until No. 1 piston is on TDC of compression stroke. With piston in this position, adjust
valves listed in appropriate VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT table. Loosen rocker arm adjusting
nut until lash is present. Tighten adjusting nut until lash is removed and push rod will not rotate. When
lash is removed, tighten adjusting nut one full turn. Rotate crankshaft 360 degrees to bring No. 4 piston to
TDC. Adjust remaining valves. See VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT table.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: See ENGINE OVERHAUL PROCEDURES article in this section for basic
procedures not covered in this article.
INTAKE MANIFOLD
Removal
1. Place transmission gear selector in park (neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block
drive wheels. Although fuel pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to
relieve tank pressure. To further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a
shop rag while removing fuel lines.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure
must be relieved as outlined in step 1).
2. Disconnect negative battery cable. On Van models, remove engine cover and air injection crossover hose.
Remove air cleaner. Drain cooling system. Label and disconnect necessary brackets, wires and hoses.
Disconnect fuel lines and linkages.
3. Remove distributor cap. With chalk or crayon, mark relationship of distributor rotor and housing to a
stationary reference point in engine compartment. If distributor is aligned properly upon installation, and
if crankshaft is not rotated while engine is apart, engine timing will not need to be reset.
4. Remove brake booster vacuum pipe. Remove A/C pump bracket and alternator bracket. Remove
carburetor or throttle body (if necessary). Remove manifold bolts. Remove intake manifold and gaskets.
Installation
1. Apply 3/16" bead of silicone sealer at front and rear intake manifold mounting surface of cylinder block.
See Fig. 1. Extend bead of sealer 1/2" up each cylinder head.
Fig. 1: Silicone Sealer Application Points
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
2. Install gaskets on cylinder heads. Install intake manifold. Install manifold retaining bolts. Tighten bolts in
sequence to specification. See Fig. 3. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
Fig. 2: Intake Manifold Installation
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 3: Intake Manifold Tightening Sequence
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
EXHAUST MANIFOLD
Removal
Remove heat stove tube. Remove all attached brackets and heat shields. On some models, it may be necessary
to remove dip stick tube. Disconnect oxygen sensor wire. Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold. Bend over
lock tabs (if equipped). Remove retaining bolts and exhaust manifold.
Installation
Clean all mating surfaces. Install manifold. Tighten bolts to specification. Bend over lock tabs (if equipped). To
complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
CYLINDER HEAD
Removal
1. Place transmission gear selector in park (neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block
drive wheels. Although fuel pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to
relieve tank pressure. To further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a
shop rag while removing fuel lines.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure
must be relieved as outlined in step 1).
2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Drain cooling system, including block. Remove intake and exhaust
manifolds as previously described. Remove A/C compressor and bracket (if equipped). Disconnect wiring
and hoses from cylinder heads. Remove alternator, spark plugs and valve covers.
3. Loosen rocker arm nuts and rotate rocker arms to side. Remove push rods in sequence and mark for
reassembly in original locations. Remove cylinder head bolts. Remove cylinder heads.
Installation
1. Clean all gasket surfaces and head bolt holes. On steel head gaskets apply thin coat of sealer to both sides
of gasket. Do not use sealer on steel/asbestos gaskets.
2. Position gaskets on cylinder block with bead facing upward. Ensure that all holes align. Install cylinder
heads. Coat threads of head bolts with Sealant (1052080).
3. Install and tighten head bolts in sequence. See Fig. 4. Tighten head bolts to specification. To complete
installation, reverse removal procedure. Lubricate valve tip, rocker arm pivot and push rod socket with
Molykote prior to installation. Adjust valves. Refer to VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT in this
article.
1. Using Stud Remover (J-5802-01), place remover over stud. Install nut and flat washer. Tighten nut to
remove stud from cylinder head. Ream hole for oversize stud.
2. Use Reamer (J-5715) for .003" (.08 mm) and Reamer (J-6036) for .013" (.33 mm) oversize replacement
studs. Coat press-fit area of stud with hypoid axle lubricant.
3. Using Stud Driver (J-6880), drive stud in cylinder head. Proper stud height is obtained when driver
bottoms against cylinder head.
VALVE SPRINGS
Valve spring free length and tension should be checked prior to installation. See VALVE & VALVE
SPRINGS under ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS tables at end of article for specifications.
Installed valve spring height must be checked. If installed height exceeds specifications, shim to meet
specifications. Refer to the VALVE & VALVE SPRINGS table under ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS tables.
VALVE GUIDES
Check valve stem-to-guide clearance. Oversize valves must be used if not within specification. See
CYLINDER HEAD under ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS tables at end of article. Valves with oversize stems
are available.
Removal
1. Disconnect negative battery cable at battery. Drain cooling system. If necessary, remove radiator shroud.
Remove all accessory drive belts, fan and pulley.
2. Remove vibration damper retaining bolt. Using Damper Puller/Installer (J-23523-E), remove vibration
damper. Remove all mounting brackets and coolant hoses attached to water pump. Remove water pump.
Remove oil pan. See OIL PAN REMOVAL at end of this section. Remove front cover, timing tab (if
equipped) and gasket.
NOTE: If timing cover alignment dowels can be removed, cover can possibly be
removed and installed without removing oil pan. Replace dowel pins with cover
installed and aligned. DO NOT leave dowel pins out or oil leaks will result.
Installation
1. Install gasket on front cover with gasket sealer. Install cover on engine block and timing tab (if equipped).
Tighten bolts to specification. Install vibration damper using damper puller/installer.
2. Before installing vibration damper retaining bolt, apply small amount of RTV sealant at crankshaft
Woodruff key and vibration damper. Install retaining bolt. Tighten to specification. Reverse removal
procedure to install remaining components. Tighten bolts to specification.
Removal
Remove drive belts. Remove pulley. Remove vibration damper retaining bolt. Using Damper Puller/Installer (J-
23523-E), remove vibration damper. Pry seal from cover with screwdriver. Do not damage front cover.
Installation
1. Using Seal Installer (J-35468), install new seal in front cover. Seal lip must face toward engine. Coat seal
lip with engine oil. Install vibration damper.
2. Before installing vibration damper retaining bolt, apply small amount of RTV sealant at crankshaft
Woodruff key and vibration damper. Install retaining bolt and tighten to specification. Reverse removal
procedure to install remaining components. Tighten all bolts to specification.
TIMING CHAIN
Removal
Remove engine front cover as previously described. Crank engine over until timing marks on camshaft and
crankshaft sprockets are aligned. Remove camshaft sprocket and timing chain. If crankshaft sprocket
replacement is necessary, use Sprocket Puller (J-5825-A) to remove sprocket.
Installation
1. Install Woodruff key in crankshaft (if removed). Using Crankshaft Sprocket Installer (J-5590), install
crankshaft sprocket on crankshaft. Install camshaft sprocket and timing chain.
2. Ensure timing marks on sprockets are aligned. See Fig. 5. Install and tighten sprocket bolts to
specification. Reverse removal procedure to install remaining components. Tighten all bolts to
specification.
Fig. 5: Aligning Timing Sprocket Marks
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
CAMSHAFT
Removal
1. Remove intake manifold, engine front cover, timing chain and camshaft sprocket as previously described.
Remove valve covers. Loosen all rocker arm nuts and rotate rockers to one side. Remove push rods and
lifters. Remove lifter retainer plate then remove lifters. Mark location for reassembly reference.
2. Remove radiator and grille. Remove thrust plate retaining screws. Reinstall cam gear for ease in handling.
Remove camshaft.
Clean all components with clean solvent. Inspect camshaft lobes for signs of flaking or flat spots. Measure
camshaft. Replace camshaft if not within specification. See CAMSHAFT under ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
tables at end of this article.
Installation
1. Coat camshaft lobes and journals with engine oil supplement. Install cam gear for ease in handling. Install
camshaft. Remove cam gear, install thrust plate and retaining screws. Tighten to specification.
2. Temporarily place camshaft sprocket on camshaft and align timing marks. Remove sprocket. Install
camshaft sprocket and chain. Tighten camshaft sprocket bolts to specification.
3. Lubricate timing chain with engine oil. When installing new camshaft, install new lifters, change oil and
filter. Reverse removal procedure to install remaining components. Tighten all bolts to specification.
Adjust valves. See VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT in this article.
1. Remove valve cover and rocker arm assembly. Using Lobe Lift Indicator (J-8520), mount dial indicator
on cylinder head. Position dial indicator and ball socket adapter on push rod.
2. Slowly rotate engine in direction of rotation until lifter is on base circle of camshaft. This is lowest
reading. Adjust dial indicator to zero. Rotate engine until push rod is fully raised and note reading.
3. Compare reading with specification. See CAMSHAFT table under ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS at end
of article. Replace camshaft and lifters if not within specification.
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
1. Remove engine. See ENGINE REMOVAL article in this section. Remove oil pan, oil pump, flywheel,
timing cover and chain. Remove crankshaft. Remove camshaft. Move pistons upward to top of cylinder
bores. Using Bearing Remover/Installer (J-6098-01), remove camshaft bearings.
2. Install front and rear camshaft bearings first, to act as guides for remover/installer pilot. Ensure that
bearing oil passages are aligned with oil passages in block. Use 3/32" diameter round stock to check oil
passage alignment. Coat camshaft rear bore plug with sealer. Install plug even to 1/32" below engine
block surface.
OIL PAN
Removal
Remove intake manifold and cylinder head as previously described. Remove oil pan and oil pump. Ensure that
rods and rod caps are marked for cylinder location. Remove cylinder ridge. Remove piston and rod assembly.
Installation
1. Properly position rings on piston. See Fig. 6. Ensure that notch in top of piston is toward front of engine.
2. Check connecting rod side clearance. Connecting rod side clearance must be within specification. See
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS tables at end of this article. Ensure crankshaft turns smoothly.
FITTING PISTONS
Determine cylinder taper, wear, out-of-round and piston clearance. For cylinder specifications, see the
CYLINDER BLOCK and PISTONS, PINS & RINGS tables under ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS. If taper or
out-of-round are not within limits, hone or bore cylinders for installation of new pistons.
FITTING RINGS
Check piston ring end gap and side clearance to prevent ring damage. If ring gap is not within specifications, try
another ring set. See PISTONS, PINS & RINGS under ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS.
Removal
Piston pins are press-fit in connecting rod. Remove snap rings from piston. Using an arbor press, press piston
pin from piston and connecting rod. Note location of piston notches or valve area in relation to rod bearing
tangs.
Inspection
Measure piston pin diameter, piston pin bore diameter and connecting rod pin bore. Determine piston pin
clearance for piston and connecting rod. Replace piston, piston pin or connecting rod if not within specification.
See PISTONS, PINS & RINGS under ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS.
Installation
Lubricate piston pin holes in piston and connecting rod with engine oil. Install piston on connecting rod with
valve areas opposite rod bearing tangs. Using arbor press, press piston pin into piston and connecting rod.
Install snap rings. Check piston for freedom of movement on piston pin.
1. Prior to removal, ensure rod caps are marked for cylinder identification. Remove rod cap and bearings.
Inspect bearings for wear or damage and replace as necessary.
2. Check crankshaft rod bearing journal for out-of-round or taper. See CRANKSHAFT MAIN &
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS table under ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS at end of this article.
3. Measure bearing clearance using Plastigage method. See CRANKSHAFT MAIN & CONNECTING
ROD BEARINGS under ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS at end of article for bearing clearance.
4. If clearance exceeds specifications, undersize bearings possibly can be used in combination to produce
correct clearance. If clearance is still excessive, crankshaft must be reconditioned.
5. Clean crankshaft journal and bearing surface in rod. Insert bearings in rod and cap, then lubricate bearing
surfaces with oil. Pull piston and rod assembly down onto crankshaft.
6. Install cap and tighten to specification. Check connecting rod side clearance. See CRANKSHAFT
MAIN & CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS table under ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS at end of
article.
MAIN BEARINGS
NOTE: Procedure listed describes main bearing removal and installation with engine in
vehicle. Measure and change bearings one journal at a time if engine is in
vehicle.
1. Remove oil pan. See OIL PAN REMOVAL in this section. Remove bearing cap. Use Plastigage method
to check bearing clearance.
2. Mark main bearing caps for identification so caps are replaced in same direction and location. Remove
main bearings from cylinder block by inserting bearing Remover/Installer (J-8080) in crankshaft oil hole.
Rotate crankshaft to "roll" bearing out. If remover/installer is unavailable, use a bent cotter pin.
3. To install upper bearing half, lubricate journal and bearing. Insert plain end of bearing (the end without
bearing tang) between crankshaft and notched side of block. With bearing remover/installer in crankshaft
oil hole, rotate crankshaft to install bearing.
4. Install lower bearing half into cap and lubricate with engine oil. Install and tighten main bearing cap with
arrow pointing toward front of engine.
1. Ensure all main bearing caps, except rear main (thrust) bearing, are installed and tightened to
specification. Temporarily tighten rear main bearing cap bolts to 10 ft. lbs. (14 N.m).
2. Tap end of crankshaft back and forth to line up main bearing and crankshaft thrust surfaces. Tighten
thrust bearing cap to specification. Retighten all main bearing cap bolts to specification, including thrust
bearing. Rotate crankshaft to confirm free movement.
NOTE: Some 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L engines may contain an .008" (.20 mm) wider main
bearing thrust face. These crankshafts can be identified by .008" stamped on
rear counterweight. During replacement, proper bearings must be used.
Removal
Remove transmission, clutch (if equipped) and flywheel. Place screwdriver in notches located on rear seal
retainer. See Fig. 7. Pry seal from retainer. Note direction of seal lip.
Fig. 7: Rear Oil Seal
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Installation
1. Ensure all surfaces are clean. Lubricate inner and outer seal area with engine oil. Place seal on Seal
Installer (J-35621). Place seal installer against crankshaft.
2. Thread attaching screws in crankshaft. See Fig. 7. Tighten screws to square seal with crankshaft. Rotate
handle until it bottoms. Remove seal installer and components. Install flywheel, clutch and transmission.
WATER PUMP
Removal
Disconnect negative battery cable at battery. Drain cooling system. Remove all drive belts, coolant hoses and
mounting brackets attached to water pump. If necessary, remove fan shroud. Remove fan and pulley. Remove
water pump and gaskets.
Installation
Clean all gasket surfaces. Using new gaskets, install and tighten water pump bolts to specification. Install
remaining components in reverse order of removal.
NOTE: For further information on cooling systems, see ENGINE COOLING SYSTEMS at
in this section.
OVERHAUL
CRANKSHAFT END PLAY
With all main bearings installed and torqued to specification, pry crankshaft toward front of engine and check
crankshaft end play. See CRANKSHAFT MAIN & CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS under ENGINE
SPECIFICATIONS at end of this article.
LUBRICATION
CRANKCASE CAPACITY
Crankcase capacity is 4 qts. (3.8L) on all vans and other engine applications. Add one additional qt. (.95L) to all
engines when replacing oil filter.
Normal oil pressure should be obtained with engine at normal operating temperature and at specified engine
RPM. Refer to the OIL PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS table.
Gear-type oil pump delivers full pressure lubrication to main oil gallery and through full-flow oil filter. Through
drilled passages in block, main oil gallery feeds oil to all crankshaft and camshaft bearings.
Valve lifter oil gallery feeds lifters. From lifters, oil is routed through hollow push rods to upper valve train
components. Timing chain and sprockets are lubricated by oil drainage from No. 1 camshaft bearing.
OIL PUMP
Removal
Remove oil pan. Remove pump-to-rear main bearing cap bolts. Remove pump and baffle (if equipped) and
extension shaft.
Disassembly
Remove pump cover. If necessary, remove inlet tube and screen assembly. Mark gears at a meshing point, so
they may be reassembled with same gear teeth indexing. Remove gears. Remove pressure regulator retaining
pin. Remove washer (if equipped), pressure regulator valve and spring.
Inspection
Inspect pump body and cover for cracks or excessive wear. Inspect pump gears for damage or wear. Check
drive gear shaft for looseness in pump body. Check pressure regulator valve for fit in bore. Replace entire pump
assembly if damaged. Inspect inlet tube and screen assembly for damage.
Reassembly
Install pump gears into pump body, with marked gear teeth indexing. Idler gear must be installed with smooth
side of gear toward cover opening. If inlet tube was removed, apply sealer to end of inlet tube. Tap inlet tube
into place using plastic hammer. Reassemble remaining components in reverse order of disassembly. Tighten
cover screws to specification.
Installation
Prime oil pump with engine oil. Assemble pump and extension shaft to engine. Ensure slot on top of extension
shaft engages with drive tang on end of distributor shaft. Install oil pump and baffle (if used). Tighten retaining
bolt to specification. Install oil pan.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Bellhousing Bolts 32 (44)
Camshaft Sprocket Bolts 21 (28)
Connecting Rod Nuts 45 (60)
Cylinder Head Bolts (1) 65 (90)
Exhaust Manifold Bolts (2) 20 (28)
Stainless Steel Manifiold Bolts 26 (36)
Flywheel Bolts 75 (100)
Intake Manifold Bolts 35 (48)
Main Bearing Cap Bolts 80 (110)
Oil Filter Adapter Bolt 15 (20)
Oil Pump Bolts 65 (90)
Vibration Damper Bolt 70 (95)
Water Outlet Bolts 21 (28)
Water Pump Bolts 30 (40)
INCH Lbs. (N.m)
Camshaft Thrust Plate Screws 105 (12)
Front Cover Bolts 96-113 (11)
Lifter Retainer Bolts 145 (16)
Oil Pan-to-Block Bolts 100 (11)
Oil Pan-to-Block Nuts 200 (22)
Oil Pan Studs-to-Seal Retainer 15 (2)
Oil Pump Cover Bolts 80 (9)
Rear Oil Seal Retainer Nuts 135 (15)
Valve Cover Bolts 90 (10)
(1) Tighten in sequence. See Fig. 4.
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS
Application In. (mm)
Displacement
Cubic Inches 262
Liters 4.3
Fuel System TBI
HP @ RPM N/A
Torque Ft. Lbs. @ RPM N/A
Compression Ratio 9.3:1
Bore 4.00 (101.6)
Stroke 3.48 (88.4)
PISTON/PIN/RING SPECIFICATIONS
BEARING SPECIFICATIONS
CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS
CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATIONS
Application In. (mm)
Intake
Journal Diameter 1.8682-1.8692 (47.452-
47.478)
Oil Clearance N/A
Bearing Bore N/A
Runout N/A
End Play .004-.012 (.10-.30)
Lobe Lift (1) .357 (9.01)
(1) Specification is for thrust side. Relief side is .001" (.03 mm).
(2) Production specification is given. Maximum service specification is .001" (.03 mm).
NOTE: This article is intended for general information purposes only. This information
may not apply to all makes and models. Not all abbreviations are covered as
manufacturers add new ones every day.
"A"
A
Amperes
ABS
Anti-Lock Brakes
ABRS
AC
Alternating Current
A/C
Air Conditioning
ACCS
ACCUM
Accumulator
ACCY
Accessory
ACT
Air Charge Temperature Sensor
ADJ
Adjust or Adjustable
ADV
Advance
AFS
Airflow Sensor
AI
Air Injection
AIR or A.I.R.
AIS
Alt.
Alternator or Altitude
Amp./amp/amps
Ampere
ASCS
ASD
Auto Shutdown
ASDM
ASV
Air Suction Valve
A/T
Automatic Transmission/Transaxle
ATC
ATDC
ATF
ATS
Aux.
Auxiliary
Avg.
Average
AXOD
"B"
BAC
BAP
BARO
Barometric
Batt.
Battery
Bbl.
BCM
BHP
Brake Horsepower
BMAP
BOO
B/P
Backpressure
BPS
BPT
Backpressure Transducer
BTDC
BTSI
BTU
"C"
°C
Celsius (Degrees)
Calif.
California
CANP
Canister Purge
CARB
CAT
Catalytic Converter
CB
Circuit Breaker
CBD
cc
cubic centimeter
CCC
CCC
CCD
Computer Controlled Dwell
CCOT
CCW
Counterclockwise
CDI
CEC
CID
cm
Centimeter
CMP
CO
Carbon Monoxide
CO2
Carbon Dioxide
Cont.
Continued
CONV
Convertible
CP
Canister Purge
CKP
CTS
Cu. In.
Cubic Inch
CVC
CV
CW
Clockwise
CYL or Cyl.
Cylinder
C3 I
C4
"D"
"D"
Drive
DC
Direct Current Or Discharge
DDD
Def.
Defrost
Defog.
Defogger
DERM
DFI
Diag.
Diagnostic
DTC
DIC
DIS
DIST
Distribution
DLC
DOC
Diesel Oxidation Catalyst
DOHC
DOT
Department of Transportation
DPF
DRB-II
DVOM
Digital Volt-Ohmmeter
"E"
EACV
EATX
EBCM
EBL
ECM
ECT
EEC
EECS
EEPROM
EFE
EGO
EGR
EOT
ESA
ESC
EST
EVAP
EVP
EWMA
Exc.
Except
"F"
°F
Fahrenheit (Degrees)
F/B
Fuse Block
Fed.
Federal
FI
Fuel Injection
FICU
FIPL
FLI
FPR-VSV
Fuel Pressure Regulator Vacuum Switching Valve
Ft. Lbs.
Foot Pounds
FWD
"G"
g
grams
Gals.
gallons
GND or GRND
Ground
"H"
HAC
HC
Hydrocarbons
H/D
Heavy Duty
HO2S
Hg
Mercury
Hgt.
Height
HLDT
Headlight
HO
High Output
HO2S
HP
High Performance
HSC
HSO
HTR
Heater
Hz
"I"
IAC
IACV
IAT
Integrated Circuit
ID
Identification
I.D.
Inside Diameter
IFS
IFS
Ign.
Ignition
IMRC
In.
Inches
INCH Lbs.
Inch Pounds
in. Hg
Inches of Mercury
Inj.
Injector
IP
Instrument Panel
IRS
ISC
IVD
IVSV
"J"
J/B
Junction Block
"K"
KAPWR
k/ohms
kg
Kilograms (weight)
kg/cm2
KM/H
KOEO
Key On, Engine Off
KOER
KS
Knock Sensor
kW
Kilowatt
kV
Kilovolt
"L"
L
Liter
Pounds
LCD
L/D
Light Duty
LDP
LED
LH
Left Hand
"M"
mA
Milliamps
MA or MAF
Mass Airflow
MAFS
MAP
MAT
Mem.
Memory
MEM-CAL
mfd.
Microfarads
MFI
MICU
MIL
MPI
Multi-Point (Fuel) Injection
mm
Millimeters
MPH
mV
Millivolts
"N"
NA
Not Available
NAC
NCA
NGS
N.m
Newton Meter
No.
Number
Nos.
Numbers
NOx
Oxides of Nitrogen
"O"
O2
Oxygen
OBD
On-Board Diagnostics
OC
Oxidation Catalyst
OD
Overdrive
O.D.
Outside Diameter
OHC
Overhead Camshaft
OSS
O/S
Oversize
oz.
Ounce
ozs.
Ounces
"P"
"P"
Park
P/C
Printed Circuit
PCM
PCS
PC-SOL
PCV
PFI
PGM-FI
PID
Parameter Identification
PIP
PNP
P/N
Park/Neutral
PRNDL
Park Reverse Neutral Drive Low
PROM
psi
P/S
Power Steering
PSPS
PTC
PTO
Power Take-Off
Pts.
Pints
Pwr.
Power
"Q"
Qts.
Quarts
"R"
RABS
RECIRC
Recirculation
RH
Right Hand
RPM
RWAL
RWD
"S"
SAS
SBC
SBEC
SDARS
SES
SFI
SIL
SOHC
SOL or Sol.
Solenoid
SPFI
SPK
Spark Control
SPOUT
Spark Output
SRI
SRS
STAR
STO
Self-Test Output
SUB-O2
Sw.
Switch
Sys.
System
"T"
TAB
TAC
TAD
TBC
TBI
TCC
TDC
Temp.
Temperature
TFI
THERMAC
TPM
Tire Pressure Monitor
TPMS
TPS
TS
Temperature Sensor
TV
Thermovalve
TWC
Three-Way Catalyst
"V"
V
Valve
Vac.
Vacuum
VAF
Vane Airflow
VAPS
VCC
VCRM
VM
Vacuum Modulator
Volt.
Voltage
VOM
Volt-Ohmmeter (Analog)
VRV
VSS
VSV
"W"
W/
With
W/O
Without
WAC
WOT
NOTE: For procedures not outlined in this article, refer to appropriate BRAKE SYSTEM
article in this section.
General Motors light duty trucks use a Rear Wheel Anti-Lock (RWAL) system to prevent wheel lock-up during
heavy braking. This is done by regulating fluid pressure to rear wheel cylinders. Pressure regulating is adjusted
by a control valve located under the master cylinder. Control valve is controlled by an Electronic Control Unit
(ECU) located next to master cylinder.
The ECU receives signals from a speed sensor, located in the transmission on 2WD models or in transfer case
on 4WD models, and stoplight switch. Speed sensor signal is sent through a Digital Ratio Adapter Controller
(DRAC) which is part of the instrument cluster. If axle ratio or tire size changes on C and K Series,
recalibration of the DRAC must be performed. On all other models, DRAC must be replaced. The system is
disabled when vehicle is in 4WD.
On models equipped with automatic transmission, an in-line resistor, located between module and stoplight
switch, prevents battery voltage from energizing the transmission converter clutch solenoid. The RWAL system
is connected to the existing brake warning light on the instrument panel. When ignition is turned on, warning
light should come on for approximately 2 seconds to indicate system is operating.
CAUTION: DO NOT touch pins on rear of instrument cluster or damage will occur.
C & K Series
Remove instrument panel. Plug Digital Ratio Adapter Calibration Service Kit (25085515) connector into rear of
instrument panel. See Fig. 1. Momentarily touch wires across vehicle's battery terminals. See INSTRUMENT
PANEL CALIBRATION TABLE. Remove appropriate pins from clip. Install clip in instrument panel. Install
instrument panel.
NOTE: Ensure brake warning light is on before trying to retrieve trouble code. If light is
not on, grounding ALDL connector will lead to false CODE 9.
1. System can be diagnosed through trouble codes. To activate trouble codes, connect a jumper wire
between terminals "A" and "H" on ALDL connector and observe flashing on brake warning light.
Sequence should be one long flash followed by short flashes (i.e. one long flash followed by 4 short
flashes indicates CODE 5).
2. System will repeat code as long as ALDL connector is grounded. Long flash after short flashes indicates
repeat of code. If there is more than one failure, only the first failure code will be stored and displayed.
See TROUBLE SHOOTING CHARTS.
3. On C and K Series trucks with dual rear wheels, a "chirping" noise may occur when applying brakes. This
is a mechanical problem, not RWAL. To correct, remove brake drums and spray two coats of Graphite
Compound (12345268) onto brake linings. Allow compound to dry between coats.
NOTE: If ECU connector retaining clip is broken when unplugging connector, service
clips are available from manufacturer.
Brake system may be bled the same as a conventional system. If manual bleeding, wait 15 seconds between
strokes. If pressure bleeding, pressurize brake bleeder to 20-25 psi (kg/cm2 ). Brake bleeding sequence is as
follows: right rear, left rear, right front, left front, isolation dump valve. Use DOT 3 brake fluid only.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Brake Line Fittings 10 (14)
Isolation Dump Valve Mounting Bolts 21 (28)
Speed Sensor Mounting Bolt
Transmission Mounted 10 (14)
Transfer Case Mounted 32 (43)
Fig. 1: Digital Ratio Adapter Calibration Service Kit (25085515)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
WIRING DIAGRAMS
Fig. 29: RWAL Wiring Diagram (Astro & Safari)
Fig. 30: RWAL Wiring Diagram (C & K Series)
Fig. 31: RWAL Wiring Diagram (G Series)
Fig. 32: RWAL Wiring Diagram (R & V Series)
Fig. 33: RWAL Wiring Diagram (S & T Series)
A/C COMPRESSOR OIL CHECKING
REFRIGERANT OIL
Only new, pure, moisture-free refrigerant oil should be used in the air conditioning system. This oil is highly
refined and dehydrated to a point where moisture content is less than 10 parts per million. The oil container
must be tightly closed at all times when not in use, or moisture will be absorbed from the air and introduced into
the refrigeration system.
DISCHARGING SYSTEM
CAUTION: When discharging air conditioning system, use only approved refrigerant
recovery/recycling equipment. Make every attempt to avoid discharging
refrigerant into the atmosphere.
If compressor has stem-type service valves, it can be isolated and removed without discharging entire system.
Otherwise, discharge system completely using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment before
loosening any fittings.
The system is fully charged with 10 ounces of refrigeration oil. It will not normally require addition of oil
unless definite oil loss has occurred due to ruptured line, leaking compressor seal, replacement of system
component, compressor overhaul, or vehicle collision.
NO SIGN OF OIL LEAKAGE
1. Remove compressor. Drain and measure oil. When replacing compressor, replace the amount drained
plus one ounce. If the amount drained from compressor is over 8 ounces, system must be flushed. Replace
accumulator and install compressor filled with 10 ounces total.
2. If evaporator is replaced, add 3 ounces to the new evaporator. If condenser is replaced, add one ounce. If
accumulator is replaced, drain old accumulator and measure oil. Add the same amount, plus 2 ounces, to
the new accumulator.
1. Remove compressor and accumulator. Drain and measure total oil from both components. If less than 6
ounces, add 6 ounces to the system. If more than 6 but less than 8 ounces, add the amount drained. If a
new accumulator is installed, add 2 additional ounces to compensate for oil retained in the desiccant.
2. If amount drained is more than 8 ounces, flush system. Replace accumulator and install compressor filled
with 10 ounces total.
NOTE: If oil drained contains metal chips or other foreign material, flush system.
Replace expansion tube, accumulator, and other components as necessary.
NOTE: The Harrison DA-6 was replaced in 1988 by the HR-6. Although there were some
internal changes, the compressors remain essentially the same.
Systems with this compressor are fully charged with 8 ounces of refrigeration oil. Due to the compressor's
design (without oil sump), the compressor does not have to be removed for oil measurement. Note the following
situations for checking and adding oil with this system:
1. If compressor is replaced, remove, drain and measure oil. Replace with same amount of new oil plus one
ounce. If evaporator is replaced, add 3 ounces of new oil. If condenser is replaced, add one ounce.
2. If accumulator is to be replaced, remove, drain oil, and measure. Replace with same amount of new oil,
plus 3 ounces. If no oil can be drained from old accumulator, add 2 ounces of new oil.
1. As the compressor has no oil sump, the compressor retains a minimum of refrigeration oil. Therefore,
only the accumulator needs to be removed, drained, and its oil measured.
2. If the amount recovered is less than 3 ounces, add 3 ounces of new oil to the system. If the amount is
more than 3 ounces, add the same amount of new oil as that drained from the accumulator.
NOTE: If a new accumulator must be added to the system, add an additional 3 ounces
to compensate for that retained by the original accumulator desiccant.
Systems with this compressor are charged (new) with 6 ounces of refrigeration oil. Due to compressor's design
(without oil sump), compressor does not have to be removed for oil measurement. Note the following situations
for checking and adding oil with this compressor:
1. If compressor is replaced, remove, drain and measure oil. Replace with same amount of new oil plus one
ounce. If evaporator is replaced, add 3 ounces of new oil. If condenser is replaced, add one ounce.
2. If accumulator is to be replaced, remove, drain oil, and measure. Replace with same amount of new oil,
plus 2 ounces to compensate for that retained by the original accumulator's desiccant.
NOTE: Also see Component Oil Replacement Quantities chart under "SERVICE
SPECIFICATIONS" in this section.
If system has lost excessive oil, remove the accumulator, drain and measure oil. DO NOT remove or drain
compressor. If more than 3 ounces is found in accumulator, add same amount of new oil as was drained. If less
than 3 ounces is measured, add 3 ounces of new oil. If a new accumulator is being installed, add 2 additional
ounces of oil to replacement accumulator.
If exact quantity of oil in system is in doubt or oil drained from components contains foreign particles, drain and
flush system. Then, add a new charge of 6 ounces of refrigeration oil to system.
1. When a V5 compressor is removed from the vehicle for servicing, the amount of oil remaining in the
compressor should be drained and measured. This oil should then be discarded and new refrigerant oil
added.
NOTE: Drain oil from the oil drain plug open to insure complete draining of oil
from the compressor
2. The compressor has a unique lubrication system. The crankcase-suction bleed is routed through the
rotating swashplate for lubrication of the swashplate bearing. The rotation acts as an oil separator, which
removes some of the oil from the crankcase-suction bleed, re-routing it to the crankcase where it can
lubricate the compressor mechanism.
3. Up to 4 ounces of oil can collect in the crankcase. All replacement compressors will be shipped from the
factory with 8 ounces of oil in the crankcase. The oil must be drained from the oil drain plug opening and
retained. Replace the oil in the same quantity as previously drained from the old compressor.
NOTE: If a new accumulator must be added to the system, add an additional 2 ounces
of oil to the compressor to compensate for that retained by the original
accumulator desiccant.
To ensure that the Nippondenso 10-cylinder compressor has the proper amount of lubricating oil, discharge the
system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment and remove the compressor. Remove the
service valve assembly. Turn the compressor upside down and drain the oil from it. Once the oil has been
drained, refill the compressor with 2.0-3.4 oz. of Densooil 6, Suniso No. 5GS or equivalent compressor oil.
A/C COMPRESSOR SERVICING
CAUTION: When discharging air conditioning system, use only approved refrigerant
recovery/recycling equipment. Make every attempt to avoid discharging
refrigerant into the atmosphere.
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
Removal
1. Using Compressor Fixture (J-9396), mount compressor in a vise. Using Clutch Plate Spanner (J-25030),
remove crankshaft nut. Using Clutch Plate Remover (J-9401), remove clutch plate. Remove clutch plate
key.
2. Remove pulley assembly snap ring. Using Shaft Protector J-9395) and commercial puller (if necessary),
remove pulley assembly. Remove snap ring, disconnect electrical wiring and remove clutch coil. Inspect
all parts for damage.
Installation
1. Install clutch coil and snap ring. Install pulley assembly and snap ring. Install clutch plate key in clutch
plate, allowing key to protrude about 3/16" out rear of clutch plate.
2. Install clutch plate on compressor crankshaft aligning key. Using Clutch Plate Installer (J-9480-B), press
clutch plate on compressor to achieve a clutch assembly clearance of .022-.057" 56-1.34 mm). Using
spanner, install crankshaft nut and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 N.m). Turn pulley and clutch plate by hand to
check for free rotation.
Fig. 1: Exploded View of Harrison A-6 6-Cylinder Compressor
SHAFT SEAL
Removal
1. Remove clutch plate and shaft key. Pry out dust seal (if equipped). Remove seal seat snap ring.
2. Using Seal Seat Remover (J-23128-A) for ceramic type or J-9393-A) for steel type, remove seal seat.
Using Seal Remover J-9553-01), remove "O" ring seal.
3. Using Shaft Seal Remover/Installer (J-9392-01), remove shaft seal by turning remover/installer slightly
clockwise to disengage tangs and pull out shaft seal. Clean all surface areas.
Installation
1. Coat new shaft seal with refrigerant oil and install shaft seal on remover/installer. Align compressor shaft
machine surface with shaft seal and install. Turn remover/installer slightly counterclockwise to secure
shaft seal tangs.
2. Using Seal Installer (J-33011), install "O" ring and coat with refrigerant oil. Coat seal seat with
refrigerant oil and install using seal seat remover/installer. Install snap ring. Install dust seal (if supplied
in seal kit). To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
Removal
1. Using Clutch Plate Spanner (J-33027), hold clutch plate and remove nut. Thread Clutch Plate
Remover/Installer (J-33013-B) into clutch plate and remove clutch plate.
2. Remove clutch plate key. Remove snap ring and remove pulley assembly. Disconnect clutch coil
electrical wiring. Scribe marks on compressor and clutch coil for installation reference. Using Puller
Adapter (J-33023-A) and 2-jaw puller, remove clutch coil. Inspect all parts for damage and replace as
necessary.
Installation
1. Align scribe marks. Using Puller Adapter (J-33024), Puller Bar (J-8433-1) and Compressor Fixture (J-
34992), Compressor Fixture (J-33026) on HR-6, press clutch coil on compressor. Restake clutch coil
inner ring in 3 places. Install pulley assembly and install snap ring. Install clutch plate key in clutch plate,
allowing key to protrude approximately 1/8" out rear of clutch plate.
2. Install clutch plate on compressor crankshaft aligning key. Using remover/installer, press clutch plate on
compressor to achieve a clutch assembly clearance of .015-.025" (.38-.64 mm). Using spanner, install
crankshaft nut and tighten to 12 ft. lbs. (17 N.m). Turn pulley and clutch plate by hand to check for free
rotation.
Fig. 2: Exploded View of Harrison HR-6 6-Cylinder Compressor
SHAFT SEAL
Removal
Remove clutch plate. Using Snap Ring Pliers (J-5403), remove shaft seal snap ring. Install Shaft Seal Protector
(J-34614) on crankshaft. Insert Shaft Seal Remover/Installer (J-23128-A) into shaft lip seal, tighten handle and
remove shaft seal. Using "O" Ring Remover (J-9553-01), remove "O" ring. Clean and inspect all parts.
Installation
1. With shaft seal protector in place, lubricate new "O" ring with refrigerant oil and install "O" ring on "O"
Ring Installer (J-33011). Insert installer in compressor until it bottoms. Lower installer slide until "O"
ring is released into groove. Rotate installer to seat "O" ring.
2. Dip lip seal in refrigerant oil and place on remover/installer. Push lip seal into compressor until bottomed.
Release seal. Install snap ring with flat side against lip seal. To complete installation, reverse removal
procedure.
1. Mount compressor to Holding Fixture (J-25008-A) and secure in a vise. Using Clutch Plate Spanner (J-
33027), remove crankshaft nut. Using Clutch Plate Remover (J-37707), remove clutch plate. Remove
pulley assembly retaining ring.
2. On "V" groove drive, remove pulley rim mounting bolts and washers. Install Puller Guide (J-25031) on
compressor. Using internal-jaw puller, remove pulley assembly from compressor.
3. On poly-groove drive, install Clutch Plate Puller J-33021) over Puller Guide (J-25031). Pull clutch plate
from compressor. Using internal-jaw puller, remove pulley assembly from compressor.
4. Remove clutch coil electrical wiring. Scribe marks on compressor and clutch coil for installation
reference. Using Puller Guide (J-25031) and 2-jaw puller, remove clutch coil. Inspect all parts for damage
and replace as necessary.
Installation
1. Using Puller Adapter (J-33024), Puller Bar (J-8433-1) and Compressor Fixture (J-25008-A), press clutch
coil on compressor. Restake clutch coil inner ring in 3 places and connect electrical wiring.
2. Use Pulley Assembly Installer (J-26271-A), Installer Handle (J-29886) and hammer to drive pulley
assembly on compressor. On "V" groove drive, use thread sealant on pulley rim mounting bolts. On all
models, ensure clutch coil terminals are aligned correctly and locating tabs is aligned with front head
locator holes. Install retaining ring.
3. Install clutch plate key in clutch plate, allowing key to protrude approximately 3/16" out rear of clutch
plate. Install clutch plate on compressor crankshaft aligning key. Using Clutch Plate Installer (J-9480-B),
press clutch plate on compressor to achieve a clutch assembly clearance of .020-.040" (.50-1.00 mm).
Using spanner, install crankshaft nut and tighten to 10 ft. lbs. (14 N.m). Turn pulley and clutch plate by
hand to check for free rotation.
SHAFT SEAL
Removal
Remove clutch plate. Using Snap Ring Pliers (J-5403), remove shaft seal snap ring. Install Shaft Seal Protector
(J-34614) on crankshaft. Insert Shaft Seal Remover/Installer (J-23128-A) into shaft lip seal, tighten handle and
remove shaft seal. Using "O" Ring Remover (J-9553-01), remove "O" ring. Clean and inspect all parts.
Installation
1. With shaft seal protector in place, lubricate new "O" ring with refrigerant oil and install "O" ring on "O"
Ring Installer (J-33011). Insert installer in compressor until it bottoms. Lower installer slide until "O"
ring is released into groove. Rotate installer to seat "O" ring.
2. Dip lip seal in refrigerant oil and place on remover/installer. Push lip seal into compressor until bottomed.
Release seal. Install snap ring with flat side against lip seal. To complete installation, reverse removal
procedure.
Installation
1. With shaft seal protector in place, lubricate new "O" ring with refrigerant oil and install "O" ring on "O"
Ring Installer (J-33011). Insert installer in compressor until it bottoms. Lower installer slide until "O"
ring is released into groove. Rotate installer to seat "O" ring.
2. Dip lip seal in refrigerant oil and place on remover/installer. Push lip seal into compressor until bottomed.
Release seal. Install snap ring with flat side against lip seal. To complete installation, reverse removal
procedure.
Removal
1. Using Clutch Plate Spanner (J-33027) and a thin-wall socket, remove crankshaft bolt. Using Clutch Plate
Remover (J-37252), remove clutch plate. Remove clutch plate shims. See Fig. 5 .
2. Remove pulley assembly snap ring. Using a plastic hammer, tap pulley assembly off compressor.
Remove snap ring and remove clutch coil. Inspect all parts for damage.
Fig. 5: Exploded View of Nippondenso 10P15, 10P15C & 10PA20 10-Cylinder Compressor
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
Installation
Install clutch coil and snap ring. Install pulley assembly and snap ring. Install clutch plate shims. Install clutch
plate and bolt. Hold clutch plate with spanner and tighten bolt to 10 ft. lbs. (14 N.m). Using a feeler gauge,
check clutch assembly clearance. Proper clearance is .014-.026 (.36-.66 mm). If clearance is not correct, remove
or add shims.
SHAFT SEAL
Removal
1. Remove clutch plate, pulley assembly and clutch coil. Using a 6 mm Allen wrench, remove 5 compressor
through bolts. Pull front head from compressor using care not to scratch sealing surface.
2. Reach down inside front head and remove felt seal and retainer. Remove "O" ring. Remove shaft seal
snap ring. Push shaft seal from head. Inspect front head for damage to sealing surface. Replace if
necessary.
Installation
1. Lubricate new "O" ring with refrigerant oil and install. Press seal into front head. Install felt seal and
retainer.
2. Install a well lubricated Shaft Seal Protector (J-34614) on crankshaft. Install a new front head "O" ring on
compressor housing and coat with refrigerant oil.
3. Position front head on compressor aligning dowel pins. Use care when guiding shaft seal protector
through seal opening. Remove shaft seal protector. Install 5 compressor through bolts using new brass
washers. Diagonally tighten bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 N.m). To complete installation, reverse removal
procedure.
A/C SYSTEM GENERAL SERVICING
CAUTION: When discharging air conditioning system, use only approved refrigerant
recovery/recycling equipment. Make every attempt to avoid discharging
refrigerant into the atmosphere.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
1. Always work in a well-ventilated, clean area. Refrigerant (R-12) is heavier than oxygen, and will displace
oxygen in a confined area. Always wear eye protection when working around air conditioning systems
and R-12. The system's high pressure can cause severe injury to eyes and skin if a hose were to burst. R-
12 evaporates quickly when exposed to atmosphere, freezing anything it contacts.
2. Use care when handling refrigerant containers. Do not drop or strike containers. Do not expose refrigerant
containers to excessive heat. Containers must never be heated more than 125°F. Never expose R-12
directly to open flame.
CAUTION: When R-12 is exposed to an open flame, drawn into a running engine, or
detected with a Halide (propane) leak tester, poisonous phosgene gas is
formed. Keep work areas ventilated and keep vehicles with running
engines away.
Disposable refrigerant cans (referred to as one pound cans) have a flat type seal or a screw type seal, and the
proper can tap must be used for each type. Be sure sealing gasket on can tap is in good condition. A proper
safety can tap will prevent refrigerant from flowing back into open can, as the tap has a one-way flow control.
NOTE: Recent findings by the EPA indicate that R-11, R-12 and R-113 are harmful to
the Earths' protective Ozone layer. Make every attempt possible, to avoid
discharging R-11, R-12 or R-113 into the atmosphere.
A multi-can dispensing valve allows the attachment of several cans of refrigerant, and is a good substitute when
a bulk container is not available. Cans are installed onto each leg of the multi-can dispensing valve in the same
manner as the individual cans, and each leg has its own can tap.
On cam-lock or one-piece can taps, first turn the handle out to the fully open position. Securely engage the
locking lugs over the flange of the can, and lock them in place by turning the cam lock or locking nut. Screw the
tap assembly into the adapter so the sealing gasket is fully seated against the can top. Turn the tap inward to
pierce the can and close the tap. DO NOT open the tap until ready to purge the service hose or dispense
refrigerant into the system.
On 2-piece can taps, be certain the tap handle is turned fully in, so it is closed. Check that the locking base is
turned to its outer limit. Securely engage the locking lugs over the can flange. Turn the entire tap assembly
(without disturbing the closed setting) down into the locking base to pierce the can. Do not open the tap until
ready to dispense into system.
Ensure can tap is fully closed. Screw refrigerant can into can tap fitting until tight. This will pierce the can.
Connect tap to center hose on manifold gauge set. DO NOT open tap until ready to dispense R-12 into system.
WARNING: DO NOT open high side hand valve while air conditioning system is in
operation. This high pressure could rupture can or possibly burst fitting
at safety can valve, resulting in damage and physical injury.
A clear sight glass indicates system has correct charge of refrigerant or is too low on refrigerant for system
circulation. Sight glass may be clear and the system might be overcharged (too much R-12). This must be
verified with test gauge readings.
A bubbly or "foamy" sight glass indicates system is low on refrigerant, and air has probably entered system.
However, if only occasional bubbles are noticed, during clutch cycling or system start-up, this may be a normal
condition.
If oil streaks appear on sight glass, a lack of refrigerant may be indicated, and the system's compressor oil is
circulating through the system.
A cloudy sight glass indicates desiccant contained in receiver-drier has broken down and is being circulated
through system.
Sight glass readings are not necessarily positive identification of a problem. Readings should be relied upon
only in conjunction with other system symptoms.
(3) On accumulator.
(5) On accumulator.
This manually operated service valve has adjustable stem, located under a protective cap. Valve stem must be
manually positioned when making gauge connections and/or reading system pressures on gauges.
This is normal operating position, and position used for connecting and disconnecting manifold gauge set. Stem
is turned fully outward sealing service gauge port.
After service gauge manifold set has been installed (valve stem in back-seated position), turn valve stem 1 1/2
to 2 turns inward. This positions valve stem midway and allows full system operation while permitting
refrigerant pressure to reach gauges.
With service valve stem turned inward, valve blocks refrigerant flow through system, isolating compressor for
service.
CAUTION: Never operate the A/C system with service valves in front-seated position,
as the compressor will be damaged.
Fig. 2: Stem-Type Service Valve Positions
Schrader service valve is similar in construction and operation to a tire valve. When a test gauge hose (which
has a valve core depressor) is attached, Schrader stem is pushed to open position allowing system pressure to
reach gauge.
If test hose being used does not have a built-in core depressor, an adapter must be used. Never attach hoses or
adapters to a Schrader valve unless it is first connected to the manifold gauge set.
NOTE: Although similar in construction and operation to a tire valve, the Schrader-type
service valve cannot be replaced with a tire valve.
Most General Motors vehicles use a high side service valve with a different thread size than that on low side
(3/8-24 thread on high side and 7/16-20 on low side). Special adapters are required to make this connection.
These adapters are available in 45 degrees and 90 degrees, in addition to straight fixed and flexible adapters.
This gauge, which may have Blue color identifying features, is used to measure low side (suction) pressure. It
reads from 0 to 150 psi (pressure scale) and from 0 to 30 inches of mercury (vacuum scale). This low side gauge
is called a compound gauge because it has a dual purpose, to register either Pressure or Vacuum.
The high side gauge, which may have Red identifying features, is used to measure high side (discharge)
pressure. It reads from 0 to 500 psi.
1. Put on safety goggles and cover vehicle's fender. Remove protective caps from Schrader valves. Do this
slowly to check for leaky valves.
CAUTION: Be sure the hand valves on the manifold gauge set are closed before
attaching test hoses to a Schrader type valve.
2. Be sure service hoses are equipped with valve core depressor to match Schrader valve. If not, install
special adapters for this purpose. Close both manifold gauge hand valves, if not done previously.
3. Connect low side service hose to low (suction) side service valve. Tighten finger tight. Connect high side
service hose to the high (discharge) service valve. Tighten finger tight.
1. Put on safety goggles and cover vehicle's fender. Remove protective caps from stem type service valves.
Do this slowly to check for leaky valves.
CAUTION: Be sure the hand valves on the manifold gauge set are closed before
turning the service valve to the mid-position.
2. Attach low side service hose to the low (suction) side service valve. Connect high side service hose to the
high (discharge) side service valve. Tighten both connectors fingertight.
NOTE: After test gauges are attached it will be necessary to purge test hoses of all air
before proceeding with testing.
1. Be sure high and low side hoses are properly connected to service valves (all hose connections tight).
2. If stem-type service valves are used, turn stems inward 1 1/2 to 2 turns to mid-position. Place clean shop
towel over end of center service hose.
3. Now purge high side test hose by opening hand valve on the high side gauge for 3-5 seconds. This allows
system's refrigerant to force air through test hoses and out center service hose into the shop towel.
Immediately close high side gauge hand valve.
4. Purge low side test hose in the same manner, using hand valve of low side gauge. Close hand valve after
3-5 seconds. Purging of test hoses is complete. System is ready for testing.
1. Once manifold gauge set is attached to system, and test hoses have been purged, system is ready for
testing. Place all test hoses, gauge set and other equipment away from all engine moving parts.
2. Start engine and turn air conditioner controls to maximum cooling (full cold and "MAX A/C"). Set
blower fan on high speed. Open doors and/or windows and operate system for 5-10 minutes. System
should now be stabilized and ready for test readings.
The following typical pressure gauge indications represent conditions that may be encountered during system
servicing. See Fig. 3 . Temperature and humidity, as well as other factors, affect pressure gauge readings.
Pressure gauge indications should be used only as a guide.
EXCESSIVE MOISTURE
Gauge Readings
Other Symptoms
Discharge Air - Becomes warm as low side cycles into vacuum. As moisture is released by saturated desiccant,
it becomes released by saturated desiccant, it becomes trapped and freezes at expansion valve or orifice tube,
blocking R-12 flow into the evaporator.
Correction
Other Symptoms
Low Side Gauge - Not enough range shown on low side gauge.
Correction
Gauge Readings
Other Symptoms
Evaporator - May freeze and restrict airflow if switch is allowing compressor to remain on too long.
3. Make certain that all wiring is positioned so that no short circuiting can occur. Connect battery cable so
that engine can be operated while making switch adjustment. Adjust thermostatic switch.
NOTE: A pressure sensing switch is used on most late Ford Motor Co., General Motors
and Eagle models with accumulator-type systems. It performs the same
function as thermostatic switch.
Gauge Readings
Other Symptoms
Correction
Gauge Readings
Other Symptoms
Compressor - Operation may have stopped if system is equipped with a refrigerant pressure sensing switch.
Correction
1. If compressor operation is stopped due to a pressure sensing switch, by-pass switch with jumper wire
until testing and correction are complete.
2. Add a partial refrigerant charge (to at least 50 percent system capacity), then make thorough leak test.
3. Discharge refrigerant from system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment.
4. Check compressor oil level. System may have lost oil due to leakage.
5. Evacuate system using vacuum pump.
6. Charge system with R-12.
7. Operate system and check performance.
Gauge Readings
Other Symptoms
Evaporator Inlet Pipe - Sweating or frost build up just ahead of orifice tube.
Testing
If evaporator inlet pipe after orifice tube and accumulator surface are warm, orifice tube is plugged.
Correction
Gauge Readings
Other Symptoms
Testing
Correction
Gauge Readings
Other Symptoms
Testing
Check for expansion valve stuck open, or incorrect mounting of temperature sensing bulb as follows:
a. Set air conditioner for maximum cooling and operate system several minutes.
b. Spray liquid R-12 on head of valve or capillary bulb, and note low side gauge reading. It should drop into
a vacuum (if not, a stuck open valve or incorrect bulb mounting is indicated). This test may not be
possible on applications where sensing bulb is not accessible.
c. If low side vacuum reading is obtained, warm expansion valve diaphragm chamber with hand, then repeat
test.
Correction
COMPRESSOR MALFUNCTION
Gauge Readings
Other Symptoms
Compressor - Noisy.
Correction
1. Isolate compressor (if equipped with stem-type service valves) or discharge entire system using approved
refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment.
2. Remove compressor cylinder head and inspect compressor.
a. Replace reed valve plate assembly if necessary.
b. Install cylinder head using NEW gasket.
3. Check compressor oil level.
4. Replace receiver-drier, desiccant or accumulator if:
a. System previously opened.
b. System operated two or more seasons with present unit.
c. Compressor inspection revealed desiccant particles (very fine golden or brown particles).
5. Using vacuum pump, evacuate compressor or entire system (depending on procedure used in step 1).
6. Charge system with R-12.
7. Operate system and check performance.
Gauge Readings
Other Symptoms
Correction
1. Discharge system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment, and remove and inspect
condenser to ensure free passage of refrigerant or replace condenser.
2. Replace receiver-drier, desiccant bag or accumulator.
3. Evacuate system using vacuum pump.
4. Charge system with R-12.
5. Operate system and check performance.
NOTE: If the orifice tube is located in the liquid line, the liquid line and orifice tube
must be replaced as an assembly.
1. Discharge refrigerant from system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment and
disconnect liquid line at evaporator inlet. Remove orifice disconnect liquid line at evaporator inlet.
Remove orifice tube using needle nose pliers or orifice tube remover.
2. If difficulty is encountered during removal of a plugged or restricted orifice tube, remove as much
impacted residue as possible. Using a heat gun, carefully apply heat 1/4" from dimples on inlet pipe. Be
careful not to overheat pipe.
NOTE: If system has a pressure switch near orifice tube location, remove the
switch prior to heating inlet pipe to avoid damaging switch.
3. While heat is being applied, install orifice tube extractor. Use a turning motion along with a push or pull
motion to loosen orifice tube and remove it.
4. To install orifice tube, swab inside or inlet pipe with R-11. Add 1 oz. of refrigeration oil to system.
Lubricate new orifice tube and "O" ring with refrigeration oil and insert into inlet pipe.
5. Install orifice tube with shorter screen end first. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
Recharge system and test system for proper operation.
CAUTION: When discharging air conditioning system, use only approved refrigerant
recovery/recycling equipment. Make every attempt to avoid discharging
refrigerant into the atmosphere.
1. Manufacturer does not recommend flushing A/C system. If system is contaminated, discharge system
using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment and install a liquid line filter. To install liquid
line filter, discharge A/C system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment and remove
liquid line.
2. Using a tubing cutter, cut section from liquid line to allow installation of liquid line filter. Clean all burrs
and smooth surfaces. Loosely assemble filter on liquid line and install line on vehicle. Align liquid line
properly and tighten filter flare nuts to 11 ft. lbs. (15 N.m).
NOTE: Liquid line filters are available with or without orifice tube. If original orifice tube
is removed, install liquid line filter with orifice tube.
1. Connect low side gauge hose to low side service valve. See SERVICE VALVE LOCATION table.
Connect high side gauge hose to evacuation pump and center hose to R-12 drum. Ensure valve on R-12
drum is closed.
2. Fully open high and low gauge valves and start evacuation pump. Operate evacuation pump until 25" or
more vacuum is read on low side gauge. Continue evacuating for 5 minutes. Close gauge valves and stop
evacuation pump.
3. Observe low side gauge. Any loss of vacuum indicates a system or gauge leak. If leak is indicated, charge
system with one pound of R-12 and perform leak testing procedure. Repair any leaks and perform
evacuation procedures.
NOTE: Do not connect high side gauge hose to high side service port. Perform A/C
charging service through low side only.
All Models
1. With gauge set attached from evacuation procedure, start engine but do not turn on A/C. With gauges and
R-12 drum (inverted for liquid charging) connected from evacuation procedure, open low side gauge
valve and let one pound of R-12 enter system.
2. When one pound of R-12 has entered system, turn A/C to "NORM" and blower to high and continue
charging (liquid charging) until proper amount of R-12 has entered system. Close R-12 drum valve and
continue running A/C system for 30 seconds to clear lines and gauges. Turn off gauge valves. Disconnect
low side hose and install service valve cap at accumulator. Perform leak test procedure.
LEAK TESTING
Operate system to stabilize high and low side pressures. Turn engine off. Using an R-12 leak detector, check all
refrigerant line connections for leaks. Check compressor seal area and condenser.
R-12 is heavier than air. Always check for leaks at bottom of refrigerant lines and components. Refrigerant oil
will leak with R-12. Visually check all connections and compressor clutch area for oil stains. If compressor
shaft seal is leaking, a fresh oil streak will normally be seen on underside of hood above compressor clutch.
Always perform leak testing after A/C service. Move R-12 leak detector slowly to check for leaks. Small leaks
will not be detected if leak testing is performed too quickly.
CAUTION: When discharging air conditioning system, use only approved refrigerant
recovery/recycling equipment. Make every attempt to avoid discharging
refrigerant into the atmosphere.
Before disconnecting any lines or fittings, the system must be completely discharged using approved refrigerant
recovery/recycling equipment.
NOTE: Recent findings by the EPA indicate that R-11, R-12 and R-113 are harmful to
the Earths' protective Ozone layer. Make every attempt possible, to avoid
discharging R-11, R-12 or R-113 into the atmosphere.
1. Remove service valve caps and install gauges. For high side gauge hose, Adapter (D81L-19703-A) must
be used to connect to high side service valve.
2. Place open end of center hose in garage exhaust outlet or in a well ventilated area. Slightly open low side
gauge valve and let refrigerant escape slowly without loosing refrigerant oil.
3. When system is nearly discharged, using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment, open high
side gauge valve to release any pressure trapped in compressor. Close valves immediately after
discharging to prevent entry of moisture.
COMPONENT REPLACEMENT
When components are replaced, system oil level must be adjusted. Add refrigeration oil to replacement
component. See Compressor oil Check article, as well as, Component Oil Replacement Quantities" chart under
"A/C SYSTEM SPECS" article in this section.
CAUTION: When R-12 is exposed to an open flame, drawn into a running engine, or
detected with a Halide (propane) leak tester, poisonous phosgene gas is
formed. Keep work areas ventilated and avoid running engines near work
area.
NOTE: Recent findings by the EPA indicate that refrigerant is harmful to the Earth's
protective Ozone layer. When discharging refrigerant avoid allowing refrigerant
to enter the atmosphere. Refrigerant recovery system should be used when
discharging the system.
On 2-piece can taps, be certain tap handle is turned fully inward to the closed position. Check that locking base
is turned to its outer limit. Securely engage locking lugs over the can flange. Turn entire tap assembly (without
disturbing the closed setting) downward into the locking base to pierce the can. DO NOT open tap until ready to
dispense into system.
ISOLATING
Turn both high and low pressure manual valves to extreme clockwise (front seat) position. Loosen cap on high
pressure manual valve connection to compressor and allow gas to escape until compressor is relieved of
pressure.
DESCRIPTION
VACUUM ACTUATED
The Thermostatic Air Cleaner (TAC) system is designed to preheat air charge entering combustion chamber.
Regulator door, part of the air cleaner snorkel assembly, maintains air temperature at a point where
carburetor/throttle body can be calibrated much leaner to reduce hydrocarbon (HC) and carbon monoxide (CO)
emissions, while also improving warm-up driveability and reducing carburetor icing.
Vacuum actuated systems consist of air cleaner assembly, integral air regulator door, vacuum control
temperature sensor, vacuum motor, heat shroud (on exhaust manifold) with connecting pipe and vacuum hoses.
Some models use additional controls, such as vacuum traps and cold weather modulators. Wax-pellet actuated
systems consist of a self-contained wax-pellet actuated assembly, calibrated spring, integral air control door,
heat shroud and connecting pipe.
OPERATION
VACUUM ACTUATED (S & T MODELS)
When temperature of air entering air cleaner is less than setting of temperature sensor, sensor closes. This
allows engine vacuum to operate directly on vacuum motor, which closes regulator door assembly to outside
air. Heated air is then drawn from around exhaust manifold, through heat shroud and into air cleaner. See Fig.
1.
As air inside air cleaner warms, bimetallic sensor valve begins to open. This gradually bleeds off vacuum to
vacuum motor. As vacuum to vacuum motor drops, regulator door begins to block off hot air delivery. This
allows outside air to enter air cleaner. When air entering air cleaner reaches a specified temperature, regulator
door opens completely, thus closing off supply of heated air from around exhaust manifold.
Fig. 1: Vacuum Actuated TAC System
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
When temperature is less than 40°F (4°C), the wax material is in a solid (contracted) state. A calibrated spring
closes integral regulator door to cold air inlet. As incoming air warms, the wax material expands by changing to
a liquid state, gradually forcing out a piston against spring pressure. As piston moves, the regulator door closes
down, allowing a mix of cold and heated air to enter engine. As piston becomes fully extended, heated air
delivery is entirely blocked off.
COMPONENT TESTING
TEMPERATURE SENSOR TEST (S & T MODELS)
1. With engine cold and not running, check regulator door. It should be in open snorkel position. Place
thermometer inside air cleaner, near sensor.
2. With engine temperature less than 80°F (27°C), start engine and run at idle. Regulator door should be in
closed snorkel position. When door starts to open, read thermometer in air cleaner. Temperature should
be 100-140°F (38-59°C). If door does not begin to open at this temperature, replace sensor.
1. Check all hoses and connections for proper hook-up. With engine off, observe regulator door through
snorkel opening. Door should be open to outside air.
2. With external vacuum unit, apply 7 in. Hg vacuum to diaphragm assembly, through hose disconnected at
sensor. Regulator door should close when vacuum is applied. If not, check for vacuum leak, or binding
linkage.
3. With vacuum applied, bend hose to trap vacuum in diaphragm assembly. Regulator door should remain
closed. If not, replace diaphragm assembly.
WAX-PELLET ACTUATED (ALL OTHERS)
1. Remove air cleaner assembly. Cool air cleaner to less than 40°F (4°C). Integral regulator door should
close off cold air inlet. Ensure gasket between air cleaner and throttle body injection unit is okay.
2. Install air cleaner. Ensure heat stove tube is connected between air cleaner and heat shroud. Start engine.
As air cleaner warms up, regulator door should slowly open to allow cold air to enter engine.
3. If air cleaner does not operate properly, ensure regulator door is not binding. Ensure calibrated spring is
properly installed. If door and spring are okay, replace wax-pellet actuator.
EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS
DESCRIPTION
Air Injection Reaction (AIR) system is used to reduce carbon monoxide (CO) and hydrocarbon (HC) emissions.
The AIR system provides additional oxygen to continue combustion process after exhaust gases leave the
combustion chamber. The AIR system diverts air from exhaust manifold during increased RPM or when
electrical malfunction is detected within the system.
Federal system, (over 10,000 GVW) used on 5.7L or 7.4L engines consist of 2 air pumps, an air filter, 2 High-
flow Electric Air Control (HFEAC) valves, 2 check valves, a control module and necessary plumbing. The 7.4L
engine also uses a control relay to operate "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light.
California systems and all models under 10,000 GVW consist of one air pump, air filter, air injection tubes,
diverter valve (over 10,000 GVW), an electric air control with Relief Tube valve (ECT, 4.3L and V8 engines,
under 10,000 GVW) or an Electric Air Control valve (EAC, 2.8L engine), check valves, air manifold assembly
and hoses connected to various components.
OPERATION
AIR PUMP
The belt driven air pump supplies air through a centrifugal filter fan to a diverter valve, ECA valve or ECT
valve.
DIVERTER VALVE
Under normal vacuum conditions, metering valve is held open by a spring on vacuum side of diaphragm. This
allows air from engine to pass into exhaust manifold. During deceleration (very high vacuum), vacuum is
applied to diaphragm to overcome spring tension, closing metering valve momentarily. During closed metering
valve, air is diverted to air cleaner or silencer. See Fig. 1 .
Fig. 1: Sectional View of Diverter Valve
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
The HFEAC valve is a diverter valve with an electric solenoid to combine electronic control to a normal
diverter valve function. With ignition on, solenoid is energized through control module and air is directed to
exhaust manifold.
During deceleration, when there is a rise in the manifold vacuum signal, air is directed to air cleaner or silencer,
even though solenoid is energized. The solenoid is de-energized when there is a high RPM over a prolonged
period or a corresponding electrical circuit failure. See Fig. 2 .
ELECTRIC AIR CONTROL (EAC) & ELECTRIC AIR CONTROL WITH RELIEF TUBE (ECT)
VALVES
NOTE: On EAC valve, divert and signal tube locations are reversed from previous
model year.
When engine is cold or at wide open throttle, ECM energizes solenoid on valve and air is directed to exhaust
manifold ports. When coolant temperature increases, solenoid is de-energized and air goes into air cleaner.
At higher engine speeds, air is directed to air cleaner through pressure relief valve (if equipped), even though
solenoid may be energized. Air should not be entering exhaust manifold during "closed loop" mode.
During deceleration, the increased manifold vacuum signal directs air to air cleaner. Check valve on air
injection pipe, prevents exhaust gases from entering air pump. Under rich mixture condition or "SERVICE
ENGINE SOON" light is on, solenoid is de-energized. See Fig. 3 .
To assist in preventing backfiring during high vacuum conditions, a deceleration valve is used. High vacuum
draws valve diaphragm down and opens valve to allow air from air cleaner to flow into intake manifold. This
process leans the mixture created by high vacuum.
Accelerate engine to approximately 1500 RPM and observe air flow from hose. If air flow increases as engine is
accelerated, air pump is okay. If air flow does not increase or is not present, check belt tension and for leaky
pressure relief valve. Air may be heard leaking with pump running. Replace as necessary.
CHECK VALVE
Remove check valve. Blow air through check valve away from air pump. Air should pass freely. Blow air
through check valve toward air pump, air should not pass. Replace valve if not operating properly.
DIVERTER VALVE
Ensure air pump operates properly. Start engine. Air should enter exhaust ports. Check for manifold vacuum
signal at valve with engine idling. Vacuum should be 10 in. Hg (34 kPa). During decel and high vacuum signal,
air should go to air cleaner and silencer. Replace valve if any conditions are incorrect.
1. Ensure air pump operates properly. Disconnect electrical connector at solenoid valve. Turn ignition on
and check for 12 volts at connector. If voltage is not within specifications, check for open and repair as
necessary.
2. Start engine. Air should go to air cleaner or silencer. Connect solenoid electrical connector. Air should go
to exhaust manifold. Check manifold vacuum signal at valve with engine idling. Vacuum should be 10 in.
Hg (34 kPa). During decel and high vacuum signal, air should go to air cleaner and silencer. Replace
valve if operation is incorrect.
NOTE: Due to the complexity of the electronic controls, for testing of "SERVICE
ENGINE SOON" light, see AIR MANAGEMENT CHECK (ELECTRONIC AIR
CONTROL VALVE) chart in appropriate article in the COMPUTERIZED ENGINE
CONTROLS section.
CARBURETED TYPE
1. Disconnect air temperature switch. Install a jumper wire across harness terminals. Turn ignition on.
Disconnect air divert solenoid electrical connector. Using a test light, check for power from Pink/Black
wire to ground. See Fig. 5 .
2. If test light illuminates, check for power across air divert solenoid harness terminals. If test light
illuminates, circuit is okay, go to next step. If test light does not illuminate, go to step 4).
3. Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance across air divert solenoid terminals. If resistance is less than 20
Ohms, replace solenoid and valve.
4. Check continuity of Yellow wire between control module and air temperature switch. Check continuity of
Brown wire between control module and air temperature switch. If continuity checks are okay, replace
control module.
5. Connect air divert solenoid harness connector. Disconnect 2 connectors from control module. Using a test
light, check for power between terminals "A" and "B" of 5-pin connector.
6. If test light does not illuminate, check for an open circuit to module connector. If test light illuminates,
check for power between terminals "A" and "D" of 5-pin connector. If test light illuminates, check for a
short to ground on Brown/White wire. If test light does not illuminate, go to next step.
7. Check for an open circuit on Yellow wire between air divert solenoid and control module. If Yellow wire
is okay, replace control module.
1. Disconnect control module connector. Turn ignition on. Connect a jumper wire between Brown/White
wire and ground. See Fig. 6 . The "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light should illuminate. If light
illuminates, go to step 3). If light does not illuminate, go to next step.
2. Check for an open circuit on Pink/Black wire to "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light. Check for a bad bulb
or an open in Brown/White wire to control module.
3. Connect a jumper wire between terminal "B" and "D" of control module connector. The "SERVICE
ENGINE SOON" light should illuminate. If light does not illuminate, check for an open in Black ground
wire. If light illuminates, replace control module.
1. Turn ignition on. Disconnect each air divert solenoid electrical connector. Using a test light, check for
power between Pink/Black wire and ground on each connector. See Fig. 6 . If test light does not
illuminate, check for an open circuit in Pink/Black wire to each solenoid.
2. If test light illuminates, check for power across air divert solenoid harness connectors. If test light
illuminates. Circuit is okay. Using an ohmmeter. Measure solenoid resistance.
3. If resistance is less than 20 ohms, replace solenoid and valve. If test light does not illuminate, check for
an open circuit on Brown wire or a faulty control module.
4. Connect solenoid electrical connectors. Disconnect control module connector. Using a test light, check
for power between terminals "A" and "B". If test light does not illuminate, check for an open circuit to
control module.
5. If test light illuminates. Check for power between terminals "A" and "D" of control module connector. If
light illuminates, check for a short to ground in Brown/White wire. If light does not illuminate, replace
control module.
WIRING DIAGRAMS
Fig. 5: Air Injection System Wiring Diagram (Carbureted 4.8L)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
DESCRIPTION
There are 2 types of alternators used, the 12SI and 17SI (Systems Integral) series with built-in voltage regulator.
All 12SI alternators have "Y" stator windings, while all 17SI have delta windings. See Fig. 1. The CS130
(Charging System) alternators have a high amperage output. This alternator does not have a diode trio.
OPERATION
CS SERIES
Regulator voltage varies to compensate for temperature. Voltage is regulated by controlling rotor field current.
Regulator switches rotor field current "on" and "off" at a fixed frequency of approximately 400 cycles per
second.
By controlling "on" and "off" time, correct system voltage can be obtained. During high speeds "on" time may
be 10 percent and "off" time 90 percent. During low speeds with high electrical loads, "on" time may be 90
percent and "off" time 10 percent.
SI SERIES
A rectifier bridge, connected to stator windings, contains 6 diodes (3 positive and 3 negative) molded into an
assembly. This rectifier bridge changes stator AC voltage into DC voltage, which appears at output terminal.
Alternator field current is supplied through a diode trio which is also connected to stator windings. A capacitor
is mounted to end frame, protecting rectifier bridge and diodes from high voltage and suppressing radio
interference noise.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: See the TROUBLE SHOOTING - BASIC PROCEDURES article in the GENERAL
TROUBLE SHOOTING section.
TESTING
NOTE: Before making electrical checks, visually inspect all terminals for clean, tight
connections. Check alternator mounting bolts and drive belt tension. Battery
must be in good condition to test charging system.
CS SERIES
1. If an overcharging condition is suspected, run engine at a moderate speed. Connect a voltmeter across
battery terminals. If voltmeter indicates more than 16 volts, replace alternator.
2. If an undercharging condition is suspected, disconnect 4-wire connector from alternator. Turn ignition on
with engine off. Connect a voltmeter between terminal "L" in wiring harness and ground. Record reading.
3. If terminal "I" is used, connect voltmeter between terminal "I" and ground. Record reading. If voltmeter
reads battery voltage, circuits are okay. If voltmeter reads zero, this indicates an open circuit between
terminal checked and battery. Repair as necessary.
1. Connect an ammeter in circuit at "BAT" terminal of alternator. Turn on all available accessories. Connect
a carbon pile across battery. Operate engine at 2000 RPM and adjust carbon pile as required to obtain
maximum current output while maintaining 13 volts or more.
2. Ampere output must be within 15 amps of rated output. See the CS SERIES ALTERNATOR OUTPUT
SPECIFICATIONS. If output is not within 15 amps of rated output, replace alternator.
SI SERIES
1. If an overcharging condition is suspected, attach a voltmeter across battery terminals. Run engine at a
moderate speed with all accessories off. If voltmeter reads 15.5 volts or more, remove alternator for
repair.
2. If an undercharging condition is suspected, turn ignition on. Connect a voltmeter from alternator "BAT"
terminal to ground. Voltmeter should read 12 volts. Connect voltmeter between No. 1 terminal and
ground. Voltmeter should read one volt or more.
3. Connect voltmeter between No. 2 terminal and ground. Voltmeter should read 12 volts. A zero reading on
any connection indicates an open between connection and battery. Opens in the No. 2 lead may be
between terminals at the crimp between harness wire and terminal, or in wire.
1. Connect an ammeter in circuit at "BAT" terminal of alternator. Turn on all available accessories. Connect
a carbon pile across battery. Operate engine at 2000 RPM and adjust carbon pile as required to obtain
maximum current output.
2. Ampere output must be within 10 amps of rated output. See the SI SERIES ALTERNATOR OUTPUT
SPECIFICATIONS. If output is not within 10 amps of rated output, ground field winding by inserting a
screwdriver into test hole. Repeat step 1).
3. If output increases to within 10 amps of rated output with field grounded, regulator is defective. If output
remains below 10 amps of rated output, check field winding, diode trio, rectifier bridge, and stator.
NOTE: Tab is within 3/4" of casting surface. DO NOT force tool beyond 1" into end
frame. If test hole is not accessible, proceed to BENCH TESTING.
BENCH TESTING
SI SERIES
1. To check for grounds, attach ohmmeter leads to shaft and slip ring (each ring in turn). If reading is not
infinity, replace rotor.
2. To test for open field, attach ohmmeter leads to each slip ring. See Fig. 2. Resistance should measure
about 2.4-2.8 ohms on 12SI series, or 1.7-2.1 ohms on 17SI series. If not, replace rotor.
Fig. 2: Rotor Bench Test For Open or Short Circuit
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Stator Test
1. For 12SI series alternator, measure resistance between stator leads. See Fig. 3. If reading is not infinity,
replace stator.
2. On all models, connect ohmmeter leads to any stator lead and to stator frame. Ohmmeter reading should
be infinity. See Fig. 3.
NOTE: Delco 17SI alternator has delta stator windings and cannot be checked for open
circuit.
Fig. 3: Testing Stator for Open or Grounded Circuits
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Remove diode trio from end frame. Connect an ohmmeter to single connector and to one of the 3
connectors. See Fig. 4. Note reading and reverse leads. If readings are the same, replace diode trio.
2. A good diode trio will give a high and low reading. Repeat tests between single connector and each of the
3 connectors. Connect ohmmeter to each of the 3 connectors. If any readings are zero, replace diode trio.
1. Position ohmmeter with one lead touching grounded heat sink and the other lead touching flat metal on
one of the 3 terminals or threaded studs. Observe reading and reverse test lead connections. See Fig. 5.
2. If both readings are the same, replace rectifier bridge. A good bridge will give a high and low reading.
Retest all terminals (6 tests with insulated heat sink).
3. Connect test leads to insulated heat sink and one edge of the 3 terminals. Observe reading and reverse
connections. Repeat test on all terminals (6 tests with insulated heat sink).
4. When all 12 tests have been made, testing is complete. DO NOT use high voltage light to check bridge.
DO NOT replace diode trio or rectifier bridge unless at least one pair of readings is the same (with leads
reversed).
OVERHAUL
NOTE: There are no overhaul procedures for CS130 alternators. Refer to the figures for
disassembly and reassembly reference. See Fig. 6 and Fig. 7 .
INSPECTION
Wash all metal parts except bearings, stator and rotor. Inspect rotor slip rings. They may be cleaned with 400
grit or finer polishing cloth, while rotor is being rotated. Slip rings may be lathe turned to .002" (.05 mm)
maximum indicator reading. Slip rings are not replaceable. Excessive damage will require rotor replacement.
Inspect brushes for wear, replacing them if more than 50% worn.
ALTERNATOR SPECIFICATIONS
CS SERIES
SI SERIES
LUBRICATION
SERVICE INTERVALS
Transmission
Check transmission fluid level at each engine oil change. Change transmission fluid and filter at 100,000 mile
intervals on vehicles in normal use. If vehicle is used in severe service conditions (commercial use, trailer
pulling, constant stop and go city traffic), change fluid and filter every 15,000 miles.
Transfer Case
Check transfer case lubricant at every oil change or every 12 months. Under severe conditions check more
frequently.
NOTE: One pint of fluid will raise level from "ADD 1 PT." ("ADD") mark to "FULL" mark
on dipstick in a hot transmission. DO NOT overfill.
Transmission
With vehicle parked on a level surface and engine at idle, move selector lever through all positions, ending in
"P". Remove dipstick, wipe clean and check fluid level. Fluid level should be between "ADD 1 PINT" ("ADD")
and "FULL" marks on dipstick.
If vehicle has been operated for an extended period of time at high speed, in city traffic, or pulling a trailer, an
accurate fluid level cannot be immediately determined. Transmission must cool for about 30 minutes after
vehicle is parked, before fluid level is checked.
Transfer Case
Remove fill plug. Check oil level. If level is not up to fill plug opening, add lubricant until it is.
RECOMMENDED FLUID
FLUID CAPACITY
Transmission
The transmission refill capacities given below are approximate. Correct fluid level should always be determined
by marks on dipstick, rather than by amount of fluid added. DO NOT overfill transmission.
Transmission
Loosen transmission oil pan bolts. Pry pan loose with a large screwdriver and allow fluid to drain. Remove oil
pan, gasket and filter or filter screen. Replace paper element filter (if used). Clean filter screen and pan with
solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Install oil pan with new gasket. Add fluid to proper mark on dipstick.
Transfer Case
Remove drain plug from transfer case. Remove fill plug for easier draining. With fluid fully drained, reinstall
drain plug. Fill transfer case to fill plug opening with Dexron II.
ADJUSTMENTS
DETENT (DOWNSHIFT) OR THROTTLE VALVE (T.V.) CABLE
Diesel Engines
1. Remove cruise control rod (if equipped). Disconnect detent cable terminal from throttle assembly. Loosen
lock nut on pump rod and back off several turns. Rotate throttle lever assembly (at valve body) to full
open position and hold.
2. Lengthen pump rod until injection pump lever contacts full throttle stop. Release throttle lever and tighten
pump rod lock nut.
Fig. 1: Detent & T.V. Cable Adjustment Components
Courtesy of COURTESY OF GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
3. Remove pump rod from lever assembly. Reconnect detent cable terminal to throttle assembly. Depress
and hold metal adjusting tab on cable adjuster. Move slider through fitting, away from throttle lever, until
slider stops against fitting. Release tab.
4. Rotate lever assembly to full throttle position and release. Reconnect pump rod. If equipped with cruise
control, reconnect rod and adjust servo throttle rod to minimum slack with engine off. Install clip in free
hole nearest to bellcrank and within servo bail.
Gasoline Engines
Depress metal lock tab on adjuster and hold. Move slider back through fitting away from throttle body lever
until slider stops at fitting. Release lock tab and open throttle body lever to full throttle stop. This automatically
adjusts slider to correct setting.
With engine off, push detent switch plunger as far forward as possible. This presets switch for adjustment.
Depress accelerator pedal to wide open position. Switch will self adjust. Operation of detent switch circuit can
be checked by connecting a test lamp across switch terminals.
1. Loosely assemble throttle position switch to fuel injection pump with throttle lever in closed position.
Attach an ohmmeter across terminals IGN (Pink wire) and EGR (Yellow wire).
2. Insert "switch-closed" .624" (15.8 mm) Gauge Bar for Emission Label Code YJH or .646" (16.4 mm)
Gauge Bar (J-33043) for all other models, between gauge boss on pump and wide open stop screw on
throttle shaft. Rotate and hold throttle lever against gauge block.
3. Rotate throttle switch clockwise (facing throttle switch) until continuity occurs (high meter reading)
across terminals. Hold switch body at this position and tighten mounting bolts to 4-5 ft. lbs. (5-7 N.m).
NOTE: Switch point must be set only while rotating switch body in clockwise
direction.
4. Release throttle lever and allow it to return to idle position. Remove "switch-closed" gauge bar and insert
"switch-open" .646" (16.4 mm) Gauge Bar (J-33043) for Emission Label Code (YJH) or .668" (16.9 mm)
Gauge Bar for all other models. If no continuity exists, switch is set properly. If continuity exists, switch
must be reset or replaced.
1. Loosen VRV-to-injection pump bolts enough to allow for regulator valve rotation. Attach vacuum pump
to bottom vacuum port of valve (vacuum gauge to top port).
2. Insert .646" (16.4 mm) Gauge Bar (J-33043) between gauge boss on injection pump and wide open stop
screw on throttle lever. Rotate throttle shaft against bar.
3. Apply 18-21 in. Hg vacuum to VRV. Slowly rotate VRV body clockwise (facing valve) until vacuum
gauge reads 7-9 in. Hg. Hold valve body in this position and tighten mounting screws.
4. Check adjustment by allowing throttle shaft to return to idle position, then rotate shaft back against gauge
bar. If vacuum gauge reading is not 7-9 in. Hg, re-adjust valve.
SHIFT LINKAGE
1. Ensure shift tube and lever are free in steering column. To adjust linkage, remove screw and spring
washer from swivel. Turn transmission lever clockwise to stop, then counterclockwise 2 detents. This is
neutral position.
2. Place selector lever in "N". Locate proper position using mechanical stops, NOT indicator pointer. Hold
swivel against shift lever. Install spring washer and screw and tighten finger tight. Avoid applying force
in either direction (along shift rod or lever) while tightening screw to 20 ft. lbs. (27 N.m).
1. Ensure shift tube and lever assembly are free in steering column. Disconnect shift lever rod from swivel
at lower column lever. Move transmission lever clockwise to stop, then counterclockwise 2 detents. This
is neutral position. Place selector lever in "N". Locate position using mechanical stops, NOT indicator
pointer.
2. Slide swivel and clamp onto shift lever rod. Install grommets, washers and nut (as needed) but do not
tighten nut. Hold lower column lever against neutral stop on park side. Tighten swivel nut to 20 ft. lbs.
(27 N.m).
1. Place gearshift selector lever in "N" position and loosen switch attaching screws. Rotate switch on
column until a .095" (2.5 mm) gauge pin can be inserted into switch gauge hole to a depth of .4" (10 mm).
2. Tighten switch attaching screws and remove gauge pin. Check for engine starting in "N" and "P" only.
1. Raise and support vehicle and loosen switch mounting bolts. Align hole in switch lever with hole in
switch assembly. Insert a .095" (2.5 mm) gauge pin through switch holes to hold switch in "N" position.
2. With selector lever on transmission in "N" detent position, tighten switch mounting bolts and remove
gauge pin. Lower vehicle and check operation of switch.
APPLICATION
THM 700-R4/4L60 APPLICATIONS
Vehicle Application Engine
Buick
Electra 5.0L
LeSabre 5.0L
Roadmaster 5.0L, 5.7L
Cadillac
Brougham 5.0L, 5.7L
Fleetwood 5.7L
Chevrolet
Astro 2.5L & 4.3L
Blazer 2.5L, 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L & 6.2L
Camaro 2.5L, 2.8L, 3.1L, 5.0L & 5.7L
Caprice 4.3L, 4.4L, 5.0L & 5.7L
Corvette 5.7L
Cutaway Van 5.7L, 6.2L, 7.4L
El Camino 4.3L & 5.0L
Hi-Cube Van 5.7L, 6.2L, 7.4L
Impala 4.3L, 4.4L, 5.0L & 5.7L
Monte Carlo 4.3L & 5.0L
Passenger Van 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 6.2L, 7.4L
Sport Van 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 6.2L, 7.4L
Suburban 5.7L, 6.2L, 7.4L
Pickup 2.5L, 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 6.2L,
6.5L, 7.4L
S10 & S10 Blazer 2.0L, 2.2L, 2.5L, 2.8L & 4.3L
Suburban 5.0L, 5.7L & 6.2L
GMC
Caballero 4.3L & 5.0L
Cutaway Van 4.3L, 5.7L
Jimmy 5.0L, 5.7L & 6.2L
Magnavan 5.7L, 6.2L, 7.4L
Passenger Van 4.1L, 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L & 6.2L
Rally Van 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 6.2L
Safari 2.5L & 4.3L
School Bus 4.3L, 5.7L
Sierra 4.3L, 5.7L, 6.2L, 7.4L
Sonoma 2.5L & 4.3L
Pickup 2.5L, 4.1L, 4.3L, 5.7L & 6.2L
S15 Pickup & Jimmy 2.0L, 2.5L, 2.8L & 4.3L
Suburban 5.0L, 5.7L & 6.2L
Vandura 4.1L, 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L & 6.2L
Yukon 5.7L
Oldsmobile
Bravada 4.3L
Custom Cruiser 5.0L, 5.7L
Pontiac
Bonneville 4.3L & 5.0L
Firebird 2.5L, 2.8L, 3.1L, 5.0L & 5.7L
Grand Prix 4.3L & 5.0L
Parisienne 4.3L, 5.0L & 5.7
Safari 5.0L
IDENTIFICATION
Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L60 (previously 700-R4) transmission can be identified by a letter code contained in
identification number. Identification number is stamped on transmission case above oil pan rail on right rear
side. See Fig. 1 . Identification number contains information which must be used when ordering replacement
parts.
Fig. 1: Identifying Transmission & Locating Circuit Taps
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
DESCRIPTION
Turbo Hydra-Matic (THM) 4L60 is a fully automatic trans-mission consisting of a 3-element hydraulic torque
converter with a Torque Converter Clutch (TCC). Two planetary gear sets, 5 multiple-disc clutches, one sprag
clutch, one roller clutch and a band provide friction elements necessary to produce 4 forward speeds, last of
which is Overdrive. See Fig. 2 .
A hydraulic system, pressurized by a variable capacity vane type pump, provides pressure required to operate
friction elements and automatic controls. Transmission contains an auxiliary valve body for smoother Drive and
Reverse engagement. Temperature switch may be used to apply TCC to prevent transmission overheating.
Temperature switch reduces fluid temperature in Overdrive when TCC is not applied.
Temperature switch mounts on valve body and sits in transmission pan fluid. See Fig. 37 . At normal operating
temperature or less, switch is open. As fluid in pan heats to 270-286°F (134-140°C), switch closes to allow TCC
to apply until fluid in pan cools to 250-268°F (121-131°C). Heat is reduced when TCC is applied and torque
multiplication function of converter is bypassed.
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE
THROTTLE VALVE CABLE
Removal
Remove air cleaner. Disconnect throttle valve cable from throttle linkage. Compress locking tabs. Remove
cable from mounting bracket. Raise and support vehicle. Remove cable retaining bolt from transmission.
Disconnect cable from transmission. Remove seal.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Install NEW seal. Once cable is fully installed, pull upper end of cable.
Slight resistance should be felt due to return spring. Ensure cable fully returns. Adjust cable. See appropriate
TRANSMISSION SERVICING - A/T article in the TRANSMISSION SERVICING section.
GOVERNOR ASSEMBLY
Removal
Raise and support vehicle. On some models, exhaust system components may require removal and transmission
may require lowering to access governor cover. Remove governor cover and "O" ring. Remove governor
assembly.
Inspection
Inspect governor valve and sleeve for binding and scoring. See Fig. 4 . Ensure weights operate freely. Inspect
governor drive gear for damage and loose fit on shaft. Replace governor if necessary.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Install NEW cover seal or gasket. Apply thin coat of Loctite sealant on
cover before installation. Ensure cover is fully seated. Ensure fluid level is correct.
1. Raise and support vehicle. On some models, exhaust system, drive shaft and crossmember may require
removal and transmission may require lowering to access servo assembly. Install piston compressor (J-
29714) on 2 oil pan bolts.
2. Compress servo cover, and remove retaining ring. See Fig. 31 . Remove servo cover and "O" ring.
Remove 2-4 servo assembly. To install, reverse removal procedure. For servo pin length check, see 2-4
SERVO ASSEMBLY under TRANSMISSION DISASSEMBLY.
Removal
Raise and support vehicle. On some models, exhaust system may require removal to access rear oil seal.
Remove drive shaft. Pry oil seal from extension housing.
Installation
Coat NEW oil seal O.D. with non-hardening sealer. Using Seal Installer (J-21426), install oil seal into housing.
To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Check fluid level.
Removal
Raise and support vehicle. Remove transmission oil pan. Remove oil filter and "O" ring. Ensure "O" ring is
removed from transmission case. Remove clamp and pressure tube. Remove auxiliary valve body retaining
bolts. Remove auxiliary valve body and check ball. See Fig. 5 . Note location of check ball.
Installation
Coat check ball with petroleum jelly before installation. Install check ball in auxiliary valve body. To complete
installation, reverse removal procedure. Lubricate "O" ring with petroleum jelly. Install new filter and "O" ring.
Tighten bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table. Fill transmission with fluid.
Fig. 5: Locating Valve Body Check Balls
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
VALVE BODY
CAUTION: Note valve body bolt length and location during removal procedure.
Transmission case damage may occur if bolts are incorrectly installed.
Removal
1. Disconnect throttle valve cable from throttle lever. Raise and support vehicle, and remove transmission
oil pan. Remove oil filter and "O" ring. Ensure "O" ring is removed from transmission case.
2. Remove electrical connectors from switches (if required), and tag. Remove auxiliary valve tube to access
valve body. Remove valve body bolts. Note length and location of bolts for installation.
3. Note direction of manual valve link. Remove manual valve link from manual valve at valve body. See
Fig. 6 . Note direction of throttle valve link. See Fig. 7 . Remove throttle valve bracket and throttle valve
link. Remove valve body. Note location of check balls. DO NOT lose balls. See Fig. 5 .
Fig. 6: Installing Manual Valve Link
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 7: Installing Throttle Valve Link
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Installation
1. Coat check balls with petroleum jelly. Install check balls in proper locations on separator plate. See Fig.
5 . Install manual valve link. Ensure manual valve link is properly seated in manual valve. See Fig. 6 .
Improper positioning may prevent vehicle operation in "D" range.
NOTE: Improper positioning of throttle valve link will result in erratic shift points
or high main line oil pressure.
2. Install throttle link. Ensure link is properly positioned with lower hook facing outside of transmission
case. See Fig. 7 . Install valve body and retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to specification. To complete
installation, reverse removal procedure.
3. Lubricate oil filter "O" ring with ATF before installation. Tighten all bolts to specification. See
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . Fill transmission with fluid.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: For additional trouble shooting, see SERVICE BULLETINS . For clutch and band
application, see CLUTCH & BAND APPLICATION CHART under CLUTCH &
BAND APPLICATION.
Check governor assembly. Governor valve sticking. Driven gear loose or damaged. Drive gear retaining pin
missing. Nicks or burrs on output shaft, governor sleeve or case bore. Improper support pin length. Governor
weights or springs missing, damaged or binding.
1-2 shift valve sticking in valve body. Spacer plate or gaskets damaged or not positioned properly. Case-to-
valve body face damaged or not flat. Governor screen restricted or damaged. 2-4 servo assembly restricted or
blocked case passages. Nicks or burrs on servo pin or case pin bore. Missing or damaged piston or pin seals. 4th
servo piston installed backward. 2-4 band worn or damaged or band anchor pin not engaged.
SLIPS IN 1ST
Defective forward clutch assembly. Clutch plates worn. Piston porous or damaged. Piston seals missing or
damaged. Input housing-to-forward clutch housing "O" ring seal missing or damaged. Damaged housing.
Housing retainer and ball assembly damaged or not seating. Input housing and shaft assembly turbine shaft
seals missing or damaged. Accumulator valve stuck in valve body.
Valve body face not flat, damaged lands, or interconnected passages. Spacer plate or gaskets incorrect, damaged
or not positioned properly. Binding or broken T.V. cable. Defective 1-2 accumulator piston assembly. Porosity
in piston or cover and pin assembly. Damaged piston ring grooves. Piston seal missing or damaged. Cover
gasket missing or damaged. Broken accumulator spring.
Improper oil pressure. Torque converter stator roller clutch not holding or 4th servo piston in backward.
Damage to low roller clutch lugs or inner ramps. Rollers not free moving, inadequate spring tension or damage
to inner splines. Oil passage plugged. Forward clutch accumulator piston seal missing or damaged. Piston out of
its bore. Porosity in piston or auxiliary valve body. Abuse valve stuck in auxiliary valve body.
T.V. cable binding, broken or improperly adjusted. Governor assembly valve sticking. Driven gear loose or
damaged. Drive gear retaining pin missing. Nicks or burrs on output shaft, governor sleeve or case bore.
Improper support pin length. Governor weights or springs missing, damaged or binding.
Throttle lever and bracket assembly damaged, binding or not installed properly. T.V. link missing, binding or
damaged. Valve body face not flat, T.V. exhaust check ball stuck or T.V. plunger sticking. Oil pump assembly
or case face not flat.
Throttle lever and bracket assembly damaged, not installed properly or T.V. cable broken or binding. Valve
body assembly throttle valve sticking. T.V. bushing turned in bore. Defective valve body assembly. 1-2 shift
valve train, line bias valve, accumulator valve or T.V. limit valve stuck. Gaskets or spacer plate incorrect,
damaged or not installed properly. Body face not flat.
Defective 2-4 servo assembly. Apply pin incorrect length. Servo seals or "O" ring seals missing or damaged.
Restricted or missing oil passages. Case servo bore damaged. Defective 2nd accumulator. Porosity in 1-2
accumulator housing or piston. Piston seal or groove damaged. Nicks or burrs in 1-2 accumulator housing.
Missing or restricted oil passages or 2-4 band worn or not positioned properly. Oil pump assembly or case faces
not flat.
Internal converter damage. Governor valve sticking. Drive gear retaining pin missing or loose. Governor
weights binding. Governor drive gear damaged. Support pin in case incorrect length. Oil pump stator shaft
sleeve scored or not located properly. Valve body 2-3 valve train or accumulator valve stuck. Spacer plate or
gaskets incorrect, damaged or not positioned properly. Throttle valve or T.V. limit valve stuck. Input housing
assembly forward or 3-4 clutch plates worn. Excessive clutch plate travel.
Forward or 3-4 piston seals damaged. Porosity in 3-4 clutch housing or piston, or 3-4 piston check ball stuck,
damaged or not sealing. Restricted apply passages. Forward clutch piston or 3rd accumulator retainer and ball
assembly not seating. Sealing balls loose or missing. 2-4 servo assembly or 2nd apply piston seals missing or
damaged.
Governor weights binding. Governor valve sticking. Drive gear damaged or retaining pin missing or loose.
Support pin in case incorrect length. Oil pump assembly faces not flat or pump cover retainer and ball assembly
omitted or damaged. Valve body assembly 2-3 valve train, accumulator valve, throttle valve, T.V. limit valve,
1-2 shift valve or 3-2 control valve stuck. Manual valve link bent or damaged. Spacer plate or gaskets incorrect,
damaged or not positioned properly. Defective 2-4 servo assembly.
Incorrect band apply pin. Servo seals missing or damaged. Porosity in pistons, cover or case. Plugged or
missing orifice cup plug. Case 3rd accumulator retainer and ball assembly leaking. Porosity in 3-4 accumulator
piston or bore. 3-4 accumulator piston seal or seal grooves damaged. Restricted oil passage. Defective input
housing assembly. Forward or 3-4 clutch plates worn, or excessive plate travel.
Forward or 3-4 piston seals damaged. Porosity in 3-4 clutch housing or piston. 3-4 piston check ball stuck,
damaged or not sealing. Restricted apply passages. Forward clutch piston retainer and ball assembly not seating.
2-4 band worn or not positioned properly. Sealing balls loose or missing.
Defective input housing assembly. 3-4 apply ring stuck in applied position. Forward clutch not releasing.
Turbine shaft seals missing or damaged. Manual valve link disconnected. Defective oil pump assembly.
Retainer and ball assembly missing or damaged. Stator shaft seal rings or ring grooves damaged. Stator shaft
sleeve scored or damaged. Reverse boost valve stuck, damaged or not assembled properly. Cup plug missing.
Restricted oil passage. Faces not flat. Converter clutch apply valve stuck. Defective valve body assembly. 2-3
shift valve stuck. Manual linkage out of adjustment. Spacer plate and gaskets incorrect, damaged or not
positioned properly. Defective reverse input clutch assembly. Clutch plate worn. Housing and drum assembly
cracked at weld. Clutch plate or return spring assembly retaining ring out of groove. Piston deformed or dished.
Seals damaged or missing. Retainer and ball assembly not sealing. Restricted apply passage. Defective low-
reverse clutch. Clutch plates worn or retaining ring not positioned properly. Porosity in piston. Seals damaged.
Return spring assembly retaining ring not positioned properly. Case porosity. Case cover plate not tightened
properly or gasket missing or damaged. Auxiliary valve body low overrun valve stuck. Cup plug restricted,
missing or damaged.
T.V. cable loose or not adjusted properly. T. V. bracket assembly bent. Defective 2-4 servo assembly. Servo
cover retaining ring missing or not assembled properly. 4th apply piston damaged or not assembled properly.
Inner housing damaged or not assembled properly. Governor weights binding or governor valve stuck.
Defective valve body assembly. Throttle valve, 3-2 control valve or T.V. modulated downshift valve stuck. T.V.
sleeve turned in bore. 4-3 sequence valve body channel blocked. No. 5 check ball missing.
T.V. cable loose or not adjusted properly. Defective valve body assembly. 4-3 sequence valve or throttle valve
stuck. No. 3 check ball not positioned properly. Spacer plate and gaskets incorrect, damaged or not positioned
properly. Defective input clutch assembly. Turbine shaft oil passages plugged or not drilled. Turbine shaft seal
rings damaged. Turbine shaft sealing balls loose or missing. Porosity in forward or overrun clutch piston.
Overrun piston seals damaged or cut. Overrun piston check ball not sealing.
Forward clutch not releasing. Manual valve link disconnected. Converter clutch apply valve stuck in oil pump.
Face of transmission case not flat or internal leakage in case.
Governor support pin too long or missing or governor valve stuck. Forward sprag clutch assembly installed
backward.
NO PARK
Perform PRELIMINARY CHECKING PROCEDURE. See CONTROL PRESSURE TEST under TESTING.
Oil pressure regulator valve stuck or valve spring damaged. Rotor guide omitted or not assembled properly.
Rotor cracked or broken. T.V. or reverse boost valve or sleeve stuck, damaged or not assembled properly.
Orifice valve in pressure regulator valve plugged. Sticking slide or excessive rotor clearance. Pressure relief ball
not seated or damaged. Pump cover or body has porosity. Incorrect pump cover or pump face not flat. Excessive
rotor clearance.
Intake pipe restricted by casting flash. Cracks in filter body or intake pipe. "O" ring seal missing, cut or
damaged. Incorrect grease used during rebuild procedure. T.V. exhaust ball stuck or damaged. Throttle link,
lever and bracket assembly binding, damaged or not assembled properly.
Manual valve scored or damaged. Spacer plate or gaskets incorrect, damaged or not assembled properly. Face
not flat. Throttle valve or T.V. limit valve sticking. Modulated downshift valve, line bias valve or 2-3 shift
valve stuck. Check balls omitted or not assembled properly. Case-to-valve body face not flat.
T.V. cable binding or not adjusted properly. T.V. exhaust ball stuck or damaged. Throttle lever and bracket
assembly binding, damaged or not assembled properly. Pressure regulator valve or T.V. boost valve stuck.
Pump slide sticking.
Throttle valve or plunger sticking. Modulated T.V. upshift or downshift valves, T.V. limit valve or line bias
valve sticking. Spacer plate or gaskets damaged, incorrect or not assembled properly.
Valve body pad porous or damaged. Governor filter restricted or damaged. 2-4 accumulator has porosity. Servo
piston seals damaged. Apply pin damaged or has improper length. 2-4 band burned or anchor pin not engaged.
Transmission not supplied 12 volts. Outside electrical connector damaged. Inside electrical connector wiring
harness or solenoid damaged. Solenoid wire pinched. Solenoid not grounded. Pressure switches incorrect or
damaged. Temperature switch damaged. Converter internal damage.
Converter clutch valve stuck or assembled backward, or retaining ring not positioned properly. Pump-to-case
gasket not positioned properly. Orifice cup plug restricted or damaged. Solenoid "O" ring seal cut or damaged.
Pump-to-body cover high or uneven bolt torque.Turbine shaft "O" ring seal cut or damaged. Turbine shaft
retainer and ball assembly restricted or damaged. TCC shift valve or apply valve stuck. Solenoid "O" ring
leaking. Solenoid screen is blocked.
CONVERTER SHUDDER
Torque converter has internal damage. Converter clutch valve stuck. Restricted oil passages. Crack in filter
body. Flash restricting filter neck. "O" ring seal cut or damaged.Turbine shaft "O" ring cut or damaged. Turbine
shaft retainer and ball assembly restricted or damaged. Low oil pressure. Engine not tuned properly.
Solenoid external ground. Converter internal damage. Converter clutch valve stuck. Converter clutch apply
valve stuck in apply position. ECM external ground.
RATCHETING NOISE
Chamfer in pump body rotor pocket too large. T.V. limit valve stuck. Fluid level overfilled. Cross leak out of
pump body and cover.
VIBRATION IN REVERSE & WHINING NOISE IN PARK
Torque converter welded seam leaking. Damaged torque converter hub. Damaged front seal.
No. 5 check ball missing. Faulty low-reverse clutch. Reverse boost valve sticking. Reverse boost valve installed
backward.
PUMP BUSHING SPINS OUT, "WALKS" INTO SEAL, OR SEIZES TO CONVERTER HUB
Transmission and engine center lines do not match. Excessive crankshaft runout (common on 6.2L). Bent
flexplate (drive plate). Excessive converter hub runout. Pump bushing I.D. not centered in pump. Bushing too
loose in pump. Not enough hub-to-bushing clearance.
SLIP ON 2-3 SHIFT, FALLING OUT OF 3RD, REPEATED 3-4 CLUTCH OR 2-4 BAND FAILURE
Leaking No. 7 check ball (direct clutch accumulator check valve located in case, visible through servo).
Cracked input shaft. Input shaft sealing rings leaking. Leak at base of input shaft where shaft is pressed into
drum. Pump cover bore (sealing ring surface) worn. Servo air bleed cup plug loose or blown out of case. Pump-
to-case gasket misaligned or ripped. 3-4 air bleed ball in back of input drum leaking. 3-4 clutch piston seals
leaking. Servo release side (large) sealing ring leaking in 2nd gear and dragging 3rd clutch. Band apply pin in
case worn. Servo seized in case. Damaged pump. Stator sleeve turned in pump and partly blocking feed
passage. Throttle valve sticking, causing delayed 3rd clutch circuit pressure rise during 2-3 shift.
Leak at forward clutch accumulator (auxiliary valve body) caused by accumulator pin "walking" out of oval
hole in cover.
Leaking 4th gear piston sealing ring (inside servo cover). Excessive servo clearance allowing 4th piston to
"walk" out of cover, leaking 4th apply oil out servo vent hole. Servo vent hole blocked (hole is at pan gasket
surface). Leaking 4th signal switch. 3-4 relay valve installed backward. Aluminum disc missing from between
3-4 relay valve and hole pin. Servo feed tunnel cup missing from valve body. 3-4 shift valve stuck. Incorrect
spring or spring too stiff at 3-4 shift valve. 3-4 accumulator air bleed cup plug blown out of case. Throttle valve
sticks.
Forward pressure plate installed incorrectly. Too many plates in overrun clutch. Incorrect top steel plate
installed in overrun clutch.
BINDS UP IN REVERSE
Stator sleeve rotated out of position. Stuck 2-3 shift valve. Servo pin jammed in case. Stuck 3-4 relay or 4-3
sequence valve.
NO REVERSE
TESTING
ROAD TEST
1. Operate vehicle in Overdrive. Accelerate using steady throttle pressure. Note shift points for 2nd, 3rd,
Overdrive and TCC application. TCC application should occur in 3rd or Overdrive.
2. Torque converter clutch will not engage until engine coolant has reached a temperature of 130°F (54°C).
Compare shift points to shift speed charts. See SHIFT SPEED CHARTS. If TCC application is not
obtained, see AUTO TRANS DIAGNOSIS - GM TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH article in the
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS section.
3. Operate vehicle in Overdrive normally at 40-55 MPH with throttle in half-open position. Ensure TCC
releases, and note 3rd gear downshift point. Repeat procedure with wide open throttle. Ensure TCC
releases, and note 2nd gear downshift point.
4. Operate vehicle in Overdrive normally at 40-55 MPH. Release accelerator while manually shifting
transmission to 3rd gear. Ensure TCC releases and engine braking is felt, and note 3rd gear downshift
point.
5. Operate vehicle in Overdrive normally at 40-45 MPH. Release accelerator while manually shifting
transmission into 2nd gear. Ensure TCC releases and engine braking is felt, and note 2nd gear downshift
point.
6. With transmission in Overdrive, accelerate normally to 25 MPH, allowing vehicle to upshift normally.
Release accelerator while manually shifting transmission into 1st gear. Ensure TCC releases and engine
braking is felt, and note 1st gear downshift point.
7. With transmission in Overdrive, accelerate to 4th gear with TCC applied. Release accelerator. Lightly
apply brakes, and ensure TCC releases and note speed at which downshifts occur. Compare shift points
noted to shift speed charts. See SHIFT SPEED CHARTS .
8. Place transmission in 3rd gear with vehicle stopped. Accelerate, and note 1st-2nd and 2nd-3rd shift
points. Repeat procedure with transmission in 2nd gear. Note 1st-2nd shift point. Accelerate to 25 MPH.
Ensure 2nd-3rd gear upshift does not occur and TCC does not engage.
9. Place transmission in 1st gear with vehicle stopped. Accelerate to 15 MPH. Ensure upshifts do not occur
and TCC does not engage. With vehicle stopped, place transmission in Reverse and slowly accelerate to
observe reverse gear operation.
10. Compare all shift points to shift speed charts. See SHIFT SPEED CHARTS . If shift points are not
within approximate speed listed, see TROUBLE SHOOTING . Control pressure can also be checked.
See CONTROL PRESSURE TEST .
NOTE: Shift speed charts are not available for 1983 through 1986 models.
1. Ensure fluid level is correct and engine is in good operating condition before performing control pressure
test. Ensure shift linkage is properly adjusted. See appropriate TRANSMISSION SERVICING - A/T
article in the AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION SERVICING section.
2. Control pressure can be checked to ensure proper throttle valve cable adjustment. If control pressure is
not within specification, adjust throttle valve cable before attempting any other corrections. See
THROTTLE VALVE CONTROL PRESSURE CHECK.
CAUTION: DO NOT perform following pressure tests for longer than 2 minutes or
transmission damage may occur.
1. Ensure throttle valve cable is properly adjusted. Attach pressure gauge to line pressure tap. See Fig. 16 .
Apply parking brake and service brakes.
2. Check line pressure as specified. See OIL PRESSURE SPECIFICATION CHARTS . Pressure
readings must be within specification. If pressure reading is not within specification, see TROUBLE
SHOOTING .
1. Possible leakage in clutch circuits may be determined by checking oil pressure differential between line
pressure and 2nd, 3rd and 4th clutches. Attach pressure gauges to line pressure tap and appropriate clutch
circuit tap on transmission.
2. Circuit tap for 2nd clutch is located on right rear side of transmission, above pan. Circuit tap for 3rd
clutch is located next to 2-4 servo, above 4th clutch circuit tap. See Fig. 1 . Drive vehicle, and note both
pressure readings. Pressure differential between line pressure and clutch circuits exceeding 10 psi (0.70
kg/cm2 ) indicates possible leakage in clutch circuit.
TORQUE CONVERTER
NOTE: Torque converter is a sealed unit and must be serviced as complete assembly.
STALL TEST
1. Torque converter whine is usually noticed when vehicle is stopped and transmission is in Reverse or
Drive. Whine will increase when engine RPM is increased and will stop when vehicle is moving or when
torque converter clutch is applied. Stall test is to ensure whine is coming from torque converter.
2. Start engine, and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Apply parking and service brakes. Put
transmission in Drive. Depress accelerator to approximately 1200 RPM for less than 6 seconds. DO NOT
depress accelerator for more than 6 seconds or transmission damage may occur. Torque converter noise
will increase under this load.
NOTE: Torque converter whine should not be confused with pump whine, which is
usually noticeable in Park, Neutral and all other gear ranges.
STATOR CHECK
1. Torque converter stator roller clutch can either remain locked up at all times or freewheel in both
directions. If stator is freewheeling at all times, vehicle tends to have poor acceleration from a stop.
Vehicle may act normal at speeds above 30-35 MPH.
2. If poor acceleration is noted, ensure exhaust system is not blocked, engine timing is correct and
transmission is in 1st gear when starting from a stop. If stator is locked up at all times, performance from
a stop appears normal. Engine RPM and acceleration is limited at high speeds. Engine may overheat from
this condition.
3. A visual inspection of torque converter may reveal converter is Blue from overheating. If torque
converter has been removed from vehicle, stator roller clutch can be checked by inserting a finger into
splined inner race of roller clutch and trying to turn race in both directions. Inner race should turn freely
clockwise but should not turn or should be difficult to turn counterclockwise.
1. Inspect torque converter for hub scoring, cracks or weld area cracks before checking end play. Install End
Play Checking Tool (J-35138) on torque converter. See Fig. 30 .
2. Note end play of torque converter. End play must be within specification. See TORQUE CONVERTER
END PLAY SPECIFICATIONS . Replace torque converter if end play is not within specification or
damage to hub area exists.
CONVERTER FLUSHING
Torque converter flushing is not recommended. Replace torque converter if contamination is found during oil
cooler flushing procedure.
NOTE: For additional information on Torque Converter Clutch (TCC), see AUTO TRANS
DIAGNOSIS - GM TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH article in the AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSIONS section.
1. Mount transmission in Holding Fixture (J-8763-02). Remove torque converter. Clean outside of
transmission case if necessary. Install Servo Cover Compressor (J-29714) on 2 oil pan bolts. See Fig. 31 .
Compress servo cover. Remove retaining ring. Remove servo cover and "O" ring.
2. Remove 2-4 servo assembly. Servo pin length should be checked before disassembling assembly to
determine 2-4 band and reverse input drum wear or damage.
1. Remove 4th apply piston and return spring. See Fig. 32 . Remove retainer ring, washer, apply pin spring
and 2nd apply piston pin. Install Piston Compressor (J-22269-01) on 2nd apply piston. See Fig. 33 .
2. Remove retainer ring, cushion spring and spring retainer. Install Band Apply Pin Tool (J-33037) and
apply pin. See Fig. 34 . Apply 100 INCH lbs. (11 N.m) torque. Note White line on band apply tool.
3. White line should appear within gauge slot if pin length is correct. If White line does not appear, inspect
2-4 band and reverse input drum for wear and damage during disassembly.
4. Servo pin length must be checked during reassembly. Servo pin is preset and must not be readjusted. See
SERVO PIN SPECIFICATIONS under 2-4 BAND & SERVO ASSEMBLY under TRANSMISSION
REASSEMBLY.
EXTENSION HOUSING
1. Remove governor cover and "O" ring. Remove governor assembly. On models with mechanical
speedometers, remove retaining bolt, washer and retainer. Remove speedometer driven gear assembly,
driven gear and "O" ring.
2. On models with internal speed sensor, remove retaining bolt and washer. Remove speed sensor assembly
and "O" ring. Remove extension housing retaining bolts. Remove extension housing and seal. Remove
output shaft sleeve and "O" ring (if equipped). Speed sensor rotor must be removed from output shaft.
3. Install Gear Puller (J-21427-01) and Adapter (J-8433) on rotor. Pull rotor from output shaft. On models
with mechanical speedometers, push retaining clip tab. Remove speedometer gear from output shaft.
Remove valve body and auxiliary valve body. See VALVE BODY and AUXILIARY VALVE BODY under
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE. Note bolt length and location during removal. Note check ball location for
reassembly reference.
1. Remove solenoid retaining bolts. Remove solenoid and "O" ring. Remove wiring harness, and note
location for reassembly reference. Carefully remove accumulator cover retaining bolts, 1-2 accumulator
cover and pin assembly.
2. Remove 1-2 accumulator piston, seal and spring. Remove spacer plate, and note check ball and filter
locations. Remove spring, 3-4 accumulator piston and pin. Note spacer plate and gasket locations. See
Fig. 35 for check ball and filter locations.
Fig. 35: Locating Check Balls & Filters
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
NOTE: Check transmission end play before disassembly. If end play is not within
specification, check for damaged components.
1. Position transmission with oil pump facing up. Remove one oil pump retaining bolt and washer, and
replace it using an 11" bolt and lock nut. Install Pump Remover/End Play Fixture (J-24773-A) and End
Play Adapter (J-25022-A) on end of turbine shaft. See Fig. 36 .
2. Clamp dial indicator on long bolt. Position indicator tip on end play fixture. Zero dial indicator. Pull up
on pump remover. Note dial indicator reading. Transmission end play should be .005-.036" (.13-.91 mm).
Check for worn components if end play is not within specification.
Fig. 36: Checking Transmission End Play
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Ensure solenoid assembly and oil filter are removed before oil pump removal. Remove oil pump retaining
bolts. Using Oil Pump Remover (J-37789-A) and Adapter (J-39119), pull pump assembly free from case.
2. Remove oil pump seal and gasket. Remove reverse input clutch-to-pump thrust washer from pump.
Remove reverse and input clutch assembly by lifting out along with turbine shaft.
1. Remove band anchor pin from case. See Fig. 37 . Remove 2-4 band assembly from case. Remove input
sun gear. See Fig. 38 .
CAUTION: Output shaft must be held in place when removing input carrier
retaining ring.
2. Install Output Shaft Support (J-29837) on output shaft. See Fig. 39 . Remove input carrier to output shaft
retaining ring. Remove input carrier. Remove output shaft. Remove input carrier thrust washer from
reaction carrier shaft.
1. Remove input internal gear and reaction carrier shaft. Remove reaction sun shell and thrust washer.
Remove sun shell-to-clutch race thrust washer. Remove support-to-case retaining ring.
2. Remove spring retainer from low-reverse support. Remove reaction sun gear, low-reverse clutch race,
clutch roller, support assembly and reaction carrier assembly. See Fig. 38 .
3. Remove low-reverse clutch assembly. Note locations of components. Remove internal reaction gear and
bearing assembly. Remove internal reaction support-to-case bearing assembly.
LOW-REVERSE CLUTCH
1. Remove parking lock bracket retaining bolts. Remove lock bracket. Using screw extractor, remove shaft
plug. Remove parking pawl shaft, parking pawl and return spring if necessary.
2. Using Clutch Spring Compressor (J-23327), compress low reverse clutch spring retainer. Remove spring
retaining ring and low-reverse spring assembly. Remove low-reverse clutch piston by applying air
pressure in case apply passage. See Fig. 40 .
Remove manual shaft nut. Remove manual shaft and retainer. Remove parking lock actuator assembly and
inner detent lever. Using a screwdriver, remove manual shaft seal from transmission case.
Disassembly
1. Remove retaining ring from reverse input clutch housing. Remove backing plate, steel clutch plates,
composition plates and Belleville plate. See Fig. 38 . Note number of clutch plates used. Using Clutch
Spring Compressor (J-23327), compress reverse input spring assembly.
2. Remove retaining ring. Remove clutch spring compressor, and remove spring assembly. Remove piston
and seals. Thickness of composition plates should be .068-.074" (1.73-1.88 mm). Selective thickness
backing plate is also used.
Inspection
1. Inspect backing plate and steel clutch plates for damage, distortion, flatness and burred edges. Inspect
composition plates for signs of excessive heat and damage to tang areas.
2. Inspect spring retainer for distortion. Check piston for deformation or damage in seal ring area. Inspect
clutch housing bushings for wear. Inspect clutch housing for dishing. Replace worn or damaged
components as necessary. If components are replaced, ensure replacement components match those
previously used.
Reassembly
1. Lubricate piston seals with ATF. Install seals on piston with seal lips facing away from hub. Install piston
in clutch housing. Use small feeler gauge to position seals. Install spring assembly with large opening
toward piston.
2. Using clutch spring compressor, compress spring assembly. Install retaining ring. Remove spring
compressor.
CAUTION: Ensure correct retaining ring is used. Ensure reverse input clutch
retaining ring is not interchanged with low-reverse retaining ring.
3. Install Belleville plate. Note number of clutch plates to be installed. Install clutch plates. Install backing
plate with chamfered side upward. Install retaining ring. Clearance must be checked to determine proper
selective backing plate usage. Apply even pressure to backing plate using fingers.
4. DO NOT apply excessive pressure or Belleville plate will be distorted, resulting in inaccurate
measurement. Using feeler gauge, measure clearance between retaining ring and backing plate. Clearance
should be 040-.076" (1.02-1.94 mm). Select backing plate to obtain correct clearance. See BACKING
PLATE SPECIFICATIONS .
VALVE BODY
NOTE: Valves are held in valve body by pins. Use care when removing pins. Valves
may be under spring pressure. Note locations of all components during
disassembly for reassembly reference.
Disassembly
1. Remove valve train, and note direction of valve installation. Remove all outside pins by pushing pins
through from rough casting side of valve body. See Fig. 42 .
2. Remove blind pins using modified drill bit. Grind taper on end of a 1/16" drill bit. Drive drill bit into pin.
Pull drill bit and pin straight out. Remove pressure switches. Note locations of all components.
Inspection
1. Clean all components with clean solvent, and dry using compressed air. Ensure all components are placed
in sequence for correct reassembly.
2. Inspect valves and sleeves for scoring and cracks. Ensure valves move freely in bores. Inspect valve body
for cracks and scored bores. Inspect machined surfaces for damage. Inspect springs for damaged coils.
Replace damaged components as necessary.
Reassembly
For reassembly, reverse disassembly procedure. Ensure all components are installed in correct location. See Fig.
42 . Ensure pins are fully installed and do not extend into machined areas. Note position of valve lands and
bushing passages.
Fig. 42: Exploded View of Valve Body
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Disassembly
1. Auxiliary valve cover is under spring tension. Carefully remove cover retaining bolts. Remove cover and
spring. Remove piston and "O" ring. See Fig. 43 . Press low-overrun clutch valve downward.
2. Remove pin, spring and low-overrun valve. Remove pin, abuse valve stop, spring and abuse valve. DO
NOT remove orifice plug unless it is damaged.
Fig. 43: Exploded View of Auxiliary Valve Body
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Clean all components with clean solvent, and dry using compressed air. Inspect piston for cracks and
roughness. Inspect valves and piston bore for nicks and scoring. Inspect springs for damaged coils.
2. Ensure valves operate freely in bores. Inspect valve body for damaged or rough machined surfaces.
Ensure overrun valve pin is tight in valve body. If pin has come out of valve body, loss or slipping in "D"
range may occur or forward and overrun clutches may be burnt.
Reassembly
1. Install orifice plug (if removed) using 3/8" diameter rod. Orifice plug must be positioned flush with
mounting surface. For reassembly, reverse disassembly procedure.
2. Install NEW "O" ring on piston. Lubricate "O" ring with petroleum jelly. Install piston and spring. Install
cover and retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .
CAUTION: Note direction roller clutch is installed in support. Roller clutch must be
installed in proper direction to provide lockup of inner race when rotated.
Remove inner race and retainer ring. Remove roller clutch assembly. Check inner race for damage and surface
finish. See Fig. 44 . Inspect roller and springs for damage and distortion. Inspect support for loose cam, cracks
and damaged surface finish. Replace damaged components as necessary.
Reassembly
1. Install roller clutch assembly in low-reverse support. See Fig. 44 . Place support in case with hub facing
downward. Install inner race. Rotate inner race while pushing downward. Use care not to damage roller
and springs during installation.
2. Ensure inner race is fully seated. Bottom tangs will be flush with carrier hub when fully seated. Inner race
should rotate clockwise and lock counterclockwise with clutch hub downward. Insert support retainer
spring into case between case lug and open notch in support.
Fig. 44: Exploded View of Low-Reverse Clutch Assembly
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Disassembly
1. Position input clutch assembly on bench. Remove snap ring retaining 3-4 clutch backing plate. Remove
backing plate. Remove 3-4 clutch plates. Note number and locations of components. Remove 3-4 apply
plate and clutch ring retainer. See Fig. 38 .
2. Remove forward clutch retainer ring, and remove backing plate. Remove forward clutch sprag assembly
and bearing. Remove input housing seal. Remove forward clutch plates. Note number and locations of
components.
3. Remove waved and apply plates. Remove overrun clutch plates (2 steel and 2 composition). Using Clutch
Spring Compressor (J-23456) and Adapter (J-25018-A), compress overrun clutch spring retainer.
4. Remove retainer ring. Remove compressor, adapter and spring assembly. Remove overrun piston and
forward clutch piston. Remove seals from pistons. Note direction of seals. Remove forward clutch
housing. Remove 3-4 spring, 3-4 apply ring and piston. Remove "O" ring from input housing. Remove
turbine shaft seal rings.
5. Remove forward clutch race. Remove snap ring and overrun clutch hub. Remove sprag retainer and race.
Note direction race is installed. Use care not to lose rollers from roller cage.
Inspection
1. Inspect sprag assembly for weak or damaged springs and retainers and worn rollers. Inspect overrun
clutch hub for spline damage, excessive wear and open oil passages. Inspect retainer and race for spline
damage, surface wear and damaged ring grooves.
2. Replace sprag assembly if damaged. Inspect forward clutch race for spline damage, excessive wear and
open oil passages. Inspect input shaft and housing for spline damage, wear and open feed passages.
3. Inspect 3 sealing balls located in rear of turbine shaft for tightness. Turbine shaft contains one open
lubrication hole. Ensure orifice plug is installed.
4. Inspect check valve located in end of turbine shaft for tightness in shaft. Check ball must move freely.
Replace check valve if damaged. Inspect turbine shaft seal areas for roughness and burrs.
5. Inspect check ball located in input housing for free operation. Pour solvent in check ball, and check for
leakage. Replace check ball if it leaks.
6. Inspect pistons for wear, damage and porosity. Inspect spring assemblies for damage and distortion.
Inspect steel clutch plates for damaged tang ends, high or burned spots, excessive wear and distortion
caused by heat.
7. Inspect composition clutch plates for damaged tang ends, burning, flaking and excessive wear. Inspect
retainer rings for distortion and damage. Check backing plates for flatness and distortion. Inspect clutch
apply rings for distortion and damaged tangs.
8. Inspect forward clutch housing check ball for proper operation (if equipped). Inspect housing for cracks
and damage in seal areas. Inspect bearings for excessive wear, flatness, damage and flat rollers.
Reassembly
1. If turbine shaft check valve requires replacement, straighten tangs of retainer and remove check ball.
Using No. 4 screw extractor, remove check valve. Remove retainer from shaft by turning.
2. Position check valve in turbine shaft. Using a 3/8" diameter rod, drive retainer and check valve assembly
into shaft. Check valve must be positioned 1/8" below top surface of turbine shaft. Ensure check ball is
loose.
3. For input housing check ball replacement, drive retainer and ball assembly from housing using 1/4"
diameter drift. Install NEW check ball assembly using 1/4" drift. Check ball assembly should seat on
housing shoulder. Assemble forward clutch sprag assembly.
4. Install sprag assembly in forward clutch race. Notches located in sprag must face upward. See Fig. 45 .
Install retainer ring on sprag retainer and race. Retainer ring flange must face away from retainer and
race.
Fig. 45: Installing & Checking Clutch Sprag Assembly
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
5. Hold outer race in left hand. Support sprag assembly. Install sprag retainer and race in sprag assembly.
Rotate retainer and race left. Install remaining retainer ring. Install overrun clutch hub. Install snap ring.
6. Check sprag operation. Holding forward clutch race, rotate overrun clutch hub. Overrun clutch hub
should turn freely clockwise and lock counterclockwise. See Fig. 45 . If lock operation is not correct,
sprag assembly is installed backward.
7. Place input clutch housing with turbine shaft downward. Install 3-4 piston seals with lips facing away
from hub. Install 3-4 piston in input housing. Rotate and gently push downward. Ensure piston is fully
seated. Measure 3-4 clutch apply ring from end of arm to base area that sets against 3-4 piston. Different
size apply rings are used.
8. Install 3-4 clutch apply ring. Install "O" ring in input clutch housing. Install forward clutch housing.
Install seals on forward clutch piston with lips facing away from tangs.
9. Install forward clutch piston in forward clutch housing. Install 3-4 spring on 3-4 clutch apply ring. Install
forward clutch assembly on3-4 spring assembly. Align forward clutch piston legs with tangs of 3-4 apply
ring. Install Seal Protector (J-29883) on input housing.
10. Install 3-4 apply ring and forward clutch assembly in input clutch housing. Hold apply ring tangs while
installing. DO NOT allow forward clutch piston to separate from assembly. Ensure assembly is firmly
seated.
11. Install Seal Protector (J-29883) on input housing. Install overrun clutch piston with hub facing upward.
Remove seal protector. If fully seated, overrun piston should be 3/16" below top of snap ring groove in
input housing hub.
12. Install spring assembly on overrun piston. Install Spring Compressor (J-23456) and Adapter (J-25018-A)
on spring assembly. Compress springs, and install snap ring. Remove spring compressor. Install input
housing seal.
NOTE: Soak clutch plates in ATF before installation. Coat all seals and "O" rings
with ATF. Coat thrust washers and bearings with petroleum jelly.
13. Install 4 overrun clutch plates, starting with steel plate. Align wide notches with case lugs. Install
remaining clutch plates, alternating steel and composition plates.
14. Install bearing assembly on input clutch hub. Bearing inner race must face input housing hub. Ensure
bearing is centered. Align clutch plate tabs. Install forward clutch sprag assembly in input housing. Align
overrun clutch hub with clutch plates.
15. Install forward clutch apply plate in input housing. Install waved forward clutch plate. Ensure all plates
are aligned with input housing tangs. Starting with steel plate, install clutch plates, alternating steel and
composition plates. Install backing plate and retainer ring.
16. Using 2 feeler gauges, measure clearance between backing plate and retainer ring. Clearance should
be .030-.063" (.75-1.60 mm). Install correct amount of clutch plates for model application. See
FORWARD CLUTCH PLATE SPECIFICATIONS . Install backing plate with chamfered side
upward. For backing plate thickness, see FORWARD CLUTCH BACKING PLATE
SPECIFICATIONS . Install retainer ring.
17. Install steel plate, composition plate and backing plate in reverse order of disassembly. Install clutch
plates and backing plate with chamfered side upward. Install retainer ring.
18. Using feeler gauge, measure clearance between backing plate and first composition plate. Clearance is
different depending on transmission model. See 3-4 CLUTCH PLATE SPECIFICATIONS .
19. Select proper backing plate to obtain correct clearance. See 3-4 BACKING PLATE
SPECIFICATIONS . Air check all clutches by applying air pressure at feed holes in turbine shaft.
20. During overrun clutch test, air pressure will blow past forward clutch piston seals and exit out forward
clutch feed hole in turbine shaft. Turbine shaft seals require sizing and should be installed just before oil
pump installation.
Disassembly
1. Remove reverse input clutch drum-to-pump thrust washer, pump-to-case gasket and pump-to-case oil seal
ring from pump assembly. Remove pump cover retaining bolts. Separate pump cover from pump body.
CAUTION: Pump slide spring and pressure relief spring rivet are under high
pressure. To prevent possible injury, cover springs during removal.
2. Using needle-nose pliers, compress pump slide spring. Remove from pump by pulling straight out.
Remove pump vane rings, pump vanes, pump rotor and rotor guide from pump pocket.
3. Remove slide from pump pocket. Remove slide seal and seal support from pump slide. See Fig. 46 .
Remove pivot pin and pivot pin spring. Remove seal ring and "O" ring from pump slide. Remove seal
retainer and seal from pump body.
4. Check condition of pump bushing. If bushing is in good condition, DO NOT remove it. Push inward on
converter clutch valve stop to compress spring. Remove snap ring. Remove valve stop, converter clutch
apply valve and springs.
5. Using a small punch, remove pressure relief spring retaining rivet. Remove relief spring and ball. Remove
oil screen and "O" ring from pump cover. Using a small screwdriver, compress throttle valve boost valve
bushing. Remove snap ring.
6. Remove Throttle Valve (T.V.) boost bushing, throttle valve boost valve and reverse boost valve sleeve.
Remove reverse boost valve, pressure regulator valve spring and pressure regulator valve.
Fig. 46: Exploded View of Oil Pump Assembly
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Inspection
1. Inspect all valves, springs, sleeves and bushings for chips, burrs, distortion and freeness in bores. Check
pressure relief ball and spring for damage and distortion, especially after metal contamination. Low main
line pressure will exist if ball and spring are damaged.
NOTE: Use compressed air to blow out all passages, especially converter
passage between TCC apply valve and stator support shaft. Metal particles
commonly get lodged inside passage.
2. Inspect pump cover screen and "O" ring for wear and damage. Clean pump body and cover. Check all
bores for obstructions. Inspect mating sides of cover and body for scoring, flatness and damage between
channels. Check channels for dirt and damaged passages. Inspect stator shaft and pump body bushings for
damage.
3. Inspect rotor and slide for scoring, cracks and damage. Check rotor guide and pump vane rings for
excessive wear and damage. Inspect all seals for damage. Measure pump rotor and slide thickness in
undamaged area if replacement is required. Replacement components must be same size as those removed
to provide proper end clearance.
Reassembly
1. Lay pump body flat on bench, and install rotor into rotor and slide cavity. Lay straight edge over pump
body and rotor. Use feeler gauge to check rotor-to-stator (cover) clearance. Specification is .0010-
.0015" (.025-.038 mm). If pump cover is replaced, ensure reverse input feed hole in stator hub is same
diameter as in hub removed.
2. Install "O" ring and seal ring in groove on back side of pump slide. Retain seal ring using petroleum jelly.
Install pivot pin and spring in pump body. Install pump slide. Notch in pump slide must align with pivot
pin hole and with flat oil seal ring facing downward in pump pocket. Install slide seal and support.
3. Install pump vane ring into pump pocket. Coat rotor guide with petroleum jelly. Install rotor guide on
rotor. Install rotor and guide into pump pocket with guide toward pump pocket. Install vanes in rotor.
Install vane guide ring. Compress pump slide spring and install into pump pocket. All components must
be even with pump body surface. Install "O" ring on pump screen, and install screen in pump cover with
seal end last.
4. Using Seal Installer (J-25016), install seal in pump body. Install seal retainer. Install pressure relief check
ball and spring in pump cover. Install retaining rivet. Install converter clutch valve springs and converter
clutch valve. Install valve stop and snap ring. Install pressure regulator valve and spring in pump cover.
See Fig. 46 .
5. Coat T.V. boost valve with petroleum jelly. Install T.V. boost valve in throttle valve bushing. Long area
on valve must be positioned in large hole of bushing. Coat reverse boost valve with petroleum jelly.
Install reverse boost valve in boost valve sleeve with small end first. Install reverse boost valve sleeve in
pump cover.
6. Install T.V. boost valve sleeve in pump cover. Install snap ring. Ensure snap ring is fully seated. Install
pump cover on pump body. Install retaining bolts finger tight. Align pump body and cover using
Alignment Strap (J-21368). Place bolt through pump-to-case bolt hole. Tighten retaining bolts to
specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . Remove alignment strap.
7. Position NEW pump-to-case gasket on pump, and retain it using petroleum jelly. Install oil seal rings on
stator hub. Retain oil seal rings using petroleum jelly. Install NEW pump-to-case oil seal on cover.
Ensure seal is not twisted. Coat seal with ATF. Install pump-to-drum thrust washer. Ensure tangs on
washer engage with holes in hub.
Disassembly
1. Remove 4th apply piston and housing from 2nd apply piston assembly. Remove return spring from apply
pin. Install Piston Compressor (J-22269-01) on second apply piston. See Fig. 33 .
2. Compress 2nd servo apply piston assembly. Remove retainer ring. Separate 2nd apply piston, spring and
retainer. Remove retainer ring, washer and spring from apply pin, and remove pin. Remove all oil seal
rings. See Fig. 32 .
Inspection
Inspect all pistons for porosity and damage. Check for ring groove damage and servo bore in case for any wear
which may cut servo seals. Check all springs and oil seal rings for distortion and damage.
Reassembly
Different servo piston housings and 2nd apply pistons are used for different applications. If servo piston
housing or 2nd apply piston is replaced, inside dimension of components must be checked. Measure inside of
piston housing and 2nd apply piston. Dimension must be same as original. To assemble, reverse disassembly
procedure. Coat seals with petroleum jelly before assembly.
1. Clean case with solvent, and dry using compressed air. Inspect case assembly for damage, cracks and
damaged bolt hole threads. Inspect valve body surface for flatness and land damage. Using compressed
air, check case oil passages for restrictions and blockage.
2. Inspect case internal clutch plate lugs for damage and wear. Inspect speedometer, servo and accumulator
bores for damage. Inspect all snap ring grooves for damage. Inspect governor support pin for proper
length. Measure distance from governor cover surface to end of governor support pin.
3. Governor support pin length should be 3.30" (83.8 mm) measured from governor cover surface to end of
support pin. Incorrect pin length may result in damaged governor gear. Replace transmission case if
damaged. Ensure replacement case contains a ribbed area in valve body area. Rib area must be present for
use with auxiliary valve body.
1. Clean all components with clean solvent, and dry using compressed air. Inspect 1-2 and 3-4 accumulator
components for damage to pistons or housing. Inspect for flatness and condition of accumulator, oil
passage plate and gasket.
2. Inspect wiring harness leads and connectors for damage. Inspect coil and all connections for damage.
Inspect speedometer gear and clip for tooth damage and distortion.
1. Clean all components with clean solvent, and dry using compressed air. Inspect reaction and input
carriers for pinion gear damage, excessive wear and improper staking of pinion pins.
2. Inspect carrier bearings for heat damage, flatness and roller condition by rotating top thrust washer.
Check bearing located inside reaction carrier. Place output shaft sleeve inside reaction carrier and input
carrier.
3. Rotate sleeve and note smoothness of bearing operation. Replace carrier assembly if roughness is felt.
Check pinion gear end play on reaction and input carriers.
4. Pinion gear end play should be .008-.024" (.20-.61 mm). Replace carrier if pinion gear end play is
excessive. Inspect internal reaction gear and support for cracks and damaged splines. Inspect low-reverse
clutch plates for wear and signs of excessive heat.
5. Inspect low-reverse clutch piston for roughness or damage in seal ring area. Inspect retainer ring and
spring assembly for damage. Inspect sun and internal gears and supports for spline and bushing wear and
damage. Replace damaged components as necessary.
TRANSMISSION REASSEMBLY
NOTE: To identify seals, bearings and thrust washers locations, see SEALS,
BEARINGS & THRUST WASHERS under TRANSMISSION REASSEMBLY.
LOW-REVERSE CLUTCH
1. Place transmission in a vertical position. Ensure piston is same dimension as that removed if replacement
is required. Different thickness pistons are used. Install seals on low-reverse clutch piston. Coat seals with
petroleum jelly. Install piston into transmission case.
2. Align piston with notch in bottom of transmission case. Ensure piston is fully seated and parking pawl
aligns with opening in piston wall. Install spring assembly with flat side of retainer upward. Using Spring
Compressor (J-23327), compress springs past ring groove in case hub. Install retainer ring.
3. Remove spring compressor. Coat bearing assembly with petroleum jelly. Install bearing assembly on case
hub with outside bearing race toward case hub. Install internal reaction gear and support. Install bearing
assembly onto support with outside bearing race toward support. Install oil deflector (if equipped) and
reaction carrier assembly in case. See Fig. 38 . Ensure clutch plates are proper thickness.
4. Install correct number of clutch plates. See LOW-REVERSE CLUTCH PLATE USAGE . Ensure
clutch plates align with splines of reaction carrier and case and that steel plates are aligned. Place waved
plate on work bench. Install 5 composition plates and 4 steel plates alternately, starting with composition
plate.
5. Install low-reverse support. Apply light pressure to low-reverse support. DO NOT apply excessive
pressure or waved plate will start to flatten, resulting in inaccurate measurement. Measure height of clutch
pack from work bench to top of low-reverse support. Using height dimension, determine proper selective
spacer plate to be used. See SPACER PLATE SELECTION .
6. Place spacer plate between waved plate and first composition clutch plate with identification facing
upward. Measure overall height of clutch pack. Overall height should be 1.20-1.24" (30.5-31.5 mm).
Install clutch pack assembly in transmission case.
7. Install low-reverse support in case with hub downward. Install inner race by pushing downward while
rotating until it is fully engaged. Bottom tangs will be flush with hub when fully installed. Install spring
retainer in case between case lug and open notch in support. Install low-reverse retainer ring.
1. Install snap ring on reaction sun gear (if removed). Install sun gear into reaction carrier. Install thrust
washer on low-reverse clutch race. Install reaction sun gear shell on reaction sun gear.
2. Install thrust washer on reaction sun gear shell. Ensure thrust washer tangs engage on gear shell. Install
input internal gear and reaction carrier shaft in sun gear shell. Carrier shaft splines must engage with
reaction carrier. See Fig. 38 .
3. Install thrust washer on reaction carrier shaft. Outer race must face toward reaction carrier shaft. Install
output shaft in transmission. Ensure output shaft engages with all components.
4. Install Output Shaft Support (J-29837). Adjust support so output shaft is positioned upward as far as
possible. Install input carrier assembly with hub end down on output shaft. Install NEW retainer ring on
output shaft. Remove output shaft support. Install input sun gear, indexing gear end with input carrier
pinions.
Install selective thrust washer on input housing. Install bearing assembly on selective thrust washer. Inner race
(Black) must go toward oil pump. Position reverse input assembly on input clutch assembly. Reverse input
clutch plates must align with input clutch hub. Ensure all clutch plates are fully engaged.
Install reverse and input clutch assemblies in case as an assembly. Align 3-4 clutch plates of input assembly
with input internal gear. Assembly is fully seated when reverse housing is just below oil pump face of case.
1. Install 2-4 band in case. Align band anchor pin end with case pin hole. Install band anchor pin in case.
Ensure band anchor pin aligns with end of 2-4 band.
2. Install 2-4 servo assembly into case, and index apply pin on band end. Check for proper engagement of
apply pin on band end. Recheck 2-4 servo apply pin selection to ensure correct pin is installed. See
CHECKING SERVO PIN LENGTH under TRANSMISSION DISASSEMBLY. Different length servo
pins are available. See SERVO PIN SPECIFICATIONS . Select proper length servo pin.
3. Install servo cover and "O" ring. Install Servo Cover Compressor (J-29714), and compress cover. Install
cover retaining ring, indexing ring ends with slot in case.
NOTE: To identify seals, bearings and thrust washers locations, see Fig. 47 .
Fig. 47: Exploded View of Seals, Bearings & Thrust Washers
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Turbine shaft seals should be installed just before oil pump installation. Position Seal Installer (J-36418-
1) on input shaft. See Fig. 48 . Adjustment screw in seal installer must be adjusted to obtain correct height
for each seal installation. Install 4 turbine shaft seals.
CAUTION: If spacer plate and gasket replacement is required, ensure NEW spacer
plate and gasket are identical as those removed.
1. Install 3-4 accumulator piston pin in case. Install 3-4 piston seal on piston. Install 3-4 accumulator piston
on pin. Legs of piston must face valve body.
2. Install 3-4 accumulator spring. Install check balls and oil screens in proper locations. Install special
retainer and ball assembly. See Fig. 35 and Fig. 36 for check ball and filter installation locations. Install
spacer plate gasket and spacer plate.
3. Install 1-2 accumulator spring, oil seal ring and 1-2 accumulator piston. Install accumulator cover and
bolts. Tighten bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .
Install valve body and auxiliary valve body. See VALVE BODY and AUXILIARY VALVE BODY under
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE.
EXTENSION HOUSING
1. Install speedometer gear and retaining clip on output shaft. If output shaft has 2 locating holes, use hole
nearest yoke on Corvette only. Install "O" ring in output shaft sleeve.
2. Using Seal Installer (J-25016), install output sleeve on output shaft. DO NOT position output sleeve past
machined surface of output shaft. Install seal ring on extension housing.
3. Position extension housing on transmission case with speedometer bore on governor side of case. Install
retaining bolts. Tighten bolts to specification. Using Seal Installer (J-21426), install oil seal in extension
housing.
4. Install speedometer driven gear and fitting assembly. Install retainer and bolt. Tighten bolt to
specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . Install outside electrical connector and manual shift
lever.
SERVICE BULLETINS
NO UPSHIFT OR STUCK IN 1ST GEAR
1991 Custom Cruiser, 1991 Bravada & 1991-92 Roadmaster (GM TSB 177113R)
Some Hydra-Matic 4L60 transmissions may experience a no upshift or stuck in 1st gear condition. This
condition may be caused by input carrier-to-output shaft retaining ring becoming unseated or retaining ring
omitted during assembly.
Output shaft is able to move slightly and will cause wear on governor driven gear. Governor driven gear wear
may be described as an "apple coring" condition. If governor driven gear is worn, transmission cannot upshift
out of 1st gear.
Remove governor, and inspect governor driven gear. If "apple coring" condition exists, disassemble
transmission to determine if retaining ring is unseated, broken or missing. See Fig. 49 . Install NEW retaining
ring as necessary. DO NOT over expand new retaining ring during installation.
Fig. 49: Exploded View Of Input Carrier-To-Output Shaft Assembly
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Some Hydra-Matic 4L60 transmissions may experience a no 3rd or 4th gear or slipping in 3rd or 4th gear
condition. Ensure T.V. cable is adjusted correctly and fluid level is filled to correct level. Check cooler lines to
ensure lines are not restricted. Remove transmission pan, and check transmission filter neck seal for proper fit.
If seal does not seal properly around filter, air can enter into oil pump and cause low line pressure or aerated
fluid. Replace seal if necessary.
If overhaul is performed, disassemble oil pump and inspect pump body bushing for wear. Replace bushing if
necessary. A worn bushing can create a large leak in oil pump and lower line pressure, which can cause oil flow
to be cut off. If oil pump bore has excessive wear in one area (out-of-round), replace oil pump body. Inspect 3-4
clutch boost springs for signs of polishing on spring tabs. Polishing is caused by 3-4 clutch friction plates
rubbing on boost springs. Replace boost springs as necessary.
Inspect input housing splines on inside of input housing. If splines show drag marks in middle spline, 3-4 clutch
steel plates are binding in housing. New plates with smaller outer diameter are available to correct this
condition. See REDESIGNED 3-4 STEEL CLUTCHPLATES under SERVICE BULLETINS. Check 2-4
band for a lube passage. If lube passage does not exist in 2-4 band, install new design 2-4 band with lube
passage.
Inspect 1-2 and 3-4 accumulator piston and bore for scoring caused by metal particles in transmission. Inspect
3rd accumulator exhaust check ball and retainer (located in case servo bore). Check ball may not seat due to
metal particles stuck in bore. This will cause 2-4 band to drag or 3-4 clutch to not fully apply on 2-3 upshift.
Ensure 3rd accumulator orifice cup plug (located in case servo bore) is not blocked. If metal particles block
orifice, 3rd accumulator will not fill properly due to trapped air in cavity. This can effect 3-4 clutch. Orifice cup
plug also lubricates 2-4 band through lube passage.
Check 3-4 clutch exhaust check ball and retainer (located in input housing). Check ball helps exhaust 3-4
clutch. If check ball does not seat, 3-4 clutch cannot fully apply. If check ball is stuck in seated position, 3-4
clutch cannot exhaust fully.
Ensure T.V. cable and manual linkage is adjusted correctly. Check line pressure at 4th gear transmission tap. If
pressure does not exist, go to STEP "A" . If pressure is low, go to STEP "B" . If pressure is normal, go to
STEP "C" .
STEP "A"
If 4th gear pressure does not exist, check items which could keep transmission from shifting. Check for
oversized tires. Oversized tires can reduce governor pressure. Ensure governor is operating correctly. Ensure
valve body bolts are tightened to correct specification.
Ensure pressure regulator snap ring is installed in its groove. Air check into exhaust hole at 4-3 sequence valve
to check 4th apply servo circuit. Air check into exhaust hole at 3-4 shift valve to check 4th gear switch, 4-3
relay and sequence valve for sticking and binding. Check for missing plug at relay valve.
Air check governor circuit for leaks, and check for sticking 3-4 shift valve. Check for missing cup plug.
Remove valve body, and check for stuck valves, relay valve installed backward or plugs missing from upshift
and downshift valves. Ensure gaskets are not covering separator plate holes. Check placement of check balls in
case and 3-4 spring tension.
STEP "B"
If 4th gear pressure is low, shift occurred but a leak exists in circuit. Remove transmission pan, and air check
into exhaust hole at 4-3 sequence valve to check 4th apply servo circuit. Check for valve body leaks. Remove
servo, and check for damaged seals, incorrect clearance and assembly errors. Check piston for cracks and pin
bore for wear. Check 3-4 accumulator piston for cracks and damaged seal. Check for missing cup plug.
STEP "C"
If 4th gear pressure is normal, a mechanical problem exists in transmission. Remove transmission pan, and
check servo exhaust hole for blockage by pan gasket or sealant. Air check into 4th gear pressure tap. Air should
come out 4-3 sequence exhaust hole, showing a clear circuit. Block 4-3 sequence exhaust hole, and air check
again. Servo should apply. Remove servo, and check for stuck servo pin in second gear piston. Check for
stripped sun gear shell. Stripped sun gear shell will cause loss of 2nd gear and Reverse.
Some 1991 Hydra-Matic 4L60 transmissions, models BFM, BPM & YNM with 5.7L engine, may exhibit a loss
of wide open throttle 3-4 upshift when hot. When servicing this condition, install new T.V. boost valve and
spring into oil pump cover. Install new 3-4 throttle valve, sleeve and spring into valve body. See Fig. 50 . If
service is necessary on BFM model transmission, replacement of T.V. boost valve and sleeve in oil pump cover
may not be required.
Beginning September 24,1991 (Julian Date 267), transmission contains updated boost valve and sleeve.
Beginning October 19, 1990 (Julian Date 292), BFM model transmission was replaced by BJM model
transmission. BJM model transmission contains updated components.
NOTE: During high speed pursuit, vehicles should be driven in Overdrive for maximum
power train performance. DO NOT install 1991 model transmission in earlier
model vehicles. 1991 model transmission is not compatible with earlier model
vehicles.
Fig. 50: Installing Throttle Valve & T.V. Boost Valve Assemblies
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
New output shaft and seal can be used as a set in all 4L60 transmissions manufactured. New output shaft can be
identified by lube passage location. New shaft has a lube passage on chamfer at front of output shaft. Lube
passage was previously located on shank of output shaft.
Redesigned 3-4 steel clutch plates have a slightly smaller outer radius. Design lets plates move freely in clutch
housing. Beginning July 27,1990 (Julian Date 208), all Hydra-Matic 4L60 transmissions are equipped with new
design plates. New clutch plates may be used on any -91 4L60 transmission.
New friction material on 3-4 clutch plates has been installed on limited applications of Hydra-Matic 4L60
transmission. New friction material has increased heat capacity but cannot be used interchangeably with
previous friction material. New material was put into production during 1991 model year. Model codes changed
as transmissions received new 3-4 clutch plates.
New plates cannot be used to service any transmissions except those 1991 models listed. See 1991
TRANSMISSION MODEL LIST . Transmissions used with 5.7L engine were first to contain new plates,
beginning in January 1991.
NOTE: DO NOT use new plates in any transmission which is not listed in 1991
TRANSMISSION MODEL LIST . If new plates are used in incorrect application,
shift quality will be poor and transmission damage could occur quickly.
Some valve body spacer plate peening is acceptable and preferred to help seat check balls. Excessive peening
will cause uneven seating of check ball. Inspect spacer plate for raised material on opposite side of check ball
seat. If material on opposite side is raised, peening is too severe and spacer plate must be replaced. See Fig. 51 .
To verify spacer plate is peening evenly and check ball is sealing correctly, seat check ball on spacer plate.
Shine beam of light on opposite side and inspect for light between spacer plate and check ball. Light should not
be present. If light is present, check ball is not seated properly and spacer plate must be replaced.
Fig. 51: Checking for Spacer Plate Peening
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
When driving vehicle, a squeak or buzz can be heard in shift lever. Possible cause can be found at connection of
transmission shift lever and transmission control lever. Check for loose fitting of control lever to shift lever. A
loose control lever can generate a vibration induced noise. To correct this condition, a wave washer should be
installed on control lever.
A second source of noise is a possible grinding out of shift lever with end of slot in control lever. This condition
can be corrected by adding one or 2 flat washers as necessary to end of shift lever that is secured to frame. See
Fig. 52 . Shift lever will center in slot in control lever, preventing grinding out condition. When wave and flat
washers have been added to control lever, ensure shift linkage is adjusted correctly. Bravada vehicles built after
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) 1GHDT13Z2M2704746 have had new washers installed.
SHIFT LEVER SERVICE PARTS
Description Part Number
Wave Washer 4722812
Flat Washer 14074908
Valve body sleeves may be installed incorrectly if casting lines on end of sleeve are not within 10 degrees of
vertical. Casting lines are visible without removing valve body. If casting lines are not within 10 degrees of
vertical, retaining pin is installed into an oil slot, not into retaining groove. See Fig. 53 .
NOTE: Sleeves can be installed incorrectly even if casting lines are within vertical
position.
Fig. 53: Locating Valve Sleeve Retaining Groove
Courtesy of ATRA.
Due to product changes in 4L60 Hydra-Matic transmission stator shaft, a new tool has been developed to
remove oil pump assembly. New tool is an adapter for use with current pump puller. Because groove under
stator shaft has been removed, previous tool cannot fit onto new shaft.
With transmission removed from vehicle, remove torque converter. Position transmission in an upright position.
Remove "O" ring and turbine shaft. Remove oil pump bolts, and install 4L60 adapter by slipping adapter over
stator shaft. Install 4L80E pump puller over adapter. Tighten small screw to secure pump puller to adapter. Turn
forcing screw to lift oil pump out of case.
POSSIBLE BLOWN FUSES ON CIRCUITS 420, 422 OR 446 DUE TO SHORTED TCC WIRING
A breakdown in Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) wiring insulation may cause a short to ground which may
affect vehicle's transmission, electrical system and engine performance. Short circuit may cause blown fuse,
loss of A/C, ECM failure or instrument cluster failure.
Die to electrical design differences, each vehicle line may show unique symptoms. A short in TCC wiring will
usually blow the circuit containing the TCC fuse.
The TCC solenoid wiring harness was modified in production as of May 17, (Julian Date 137) in all 4L60
transmissions.
NOTE: Check vehicle wiring diagram and eliminate any other cause of blown fuses.
1. Turn off ignition. Unplug TCC wiring harness at transmission. Replace blow fuse.
2. Start engine. Check if short circuit is still present. If so, TCC wiring is probably not the cause. If short
circuit is not present, continue with diagnosis.
1. Turn off ignition. Unplug wiring harness from transmission case. Using self-powered test light or high
impedance ohmmeter, check for short circuit between transmission case and terminal "A", and between
terminal "D".
2. If short exists, replace TCC solenoid wiring harness. DO NOT attempt to repair wiring.
Diagnostic Hints
1. If wire "A" (circuit 420) shorts to ground, check for blown fuse in 12-volt feed circuit. See TCC
BATTERY FEED CIRCUIT .
NOTE: TCC BATTERY FEED CIRCUIT does not include all possible fuses. Check
vehicle wiring diagram.
2. Symptoms that a vehicle may exhibit upon or during torque converter operation are as follows:
z Shudder and/or vibration during torque converter clutch apply
z No upshift due to fiber material sticking valves and/or fiber material and metal particles in filter
z Vehicle may exhibit shudder or no TCC apply. Torque converter clutch lining delaminating due to
coolant contamination from transmission cooler
z Torque converter clutch crowd shudder condition: This condition is caused by a leak in the TCC
circuit which could cause excessive slippage and wear away the fiber lining on the TCC apply
plate. Possible causes for TCC solenoid "O" ring, valve body gaskets. Worn TCC accumulator
piston pin or seal.
z TCC apply shudder caused by converter dampener plate not parallel.
z A whine noise when shifted into drive that may increase when brake torqued. Torque converter
whine is usually noticed when the vehicle is stopped and when the transmission is in Drive or
Reverse. The noise will increase when the vehicle is moving and there is no torque multiplication
(both halves of the torque converter are turning at the same speed) or when the torque converter
clutch is applied.
3. With foot on brake and Gear Selector in Drive, depress accelerator to approximately 1200 RPM for no
more than 6 seconds (Stall Test). A torque converter noise increases under load.
NOTE: This noise should not be confused with pump whine noise which is
usually noticeable in Park, Neutral and all other gear ranges. Pump whine
will vary with pressure ranges.
4. The torque converter should be replaced under any of the following conditions:
z Vehicles have TCC shudder and/or No TCC apply but, only after all Electrical and Hydraulic
diagnosis has been made (Converter Clutch material may be glazed)
z Evidence of damage to the pump assembly or steel particles in converter
z Steel particles are found after flushing the cooler and cooler lines
z Excess end play found after checking converter for end play
z Steel particles or clutch lining material found in fluid filter or on magnet when no internal parts in
unit are worn or damaged indicating lining material came from converter.
z Heavy clutch debris due to overheating (Blue Converter)
NEW LOW & REVERSE CLUTCH SUPPORT & SELECTIVE PLATE DIMENSIONS
1. Dimensional change has been made in low and reverse clutch support and its selective plates. Thickness
of low and reverse clutch support has increased while thickness of selective plates has decreased. Three
selective plates are available. Productions change was initiated as follows:
z Low and Reverse Clutch Support November 1, (Julian Date 305) and Selective Plates February 2,
1990 (Julian Date 033).
2. In most cases, new low and reverse clutch assembly will only require fifth reactions plate instead of
selective plate. To identify low and reverse clutch support, measure its thickness with a micrometer.
3. The new low and reverse clutch support and selective plates may be used to service a post model year
transmission if:
z Transmission was built after February 9, 1987 (Julian Date 040)
The forward and 3-4 clutch apply plates will now be manufactured from powdered metal instead of steel.
Production change was as follows:
Forward - January 25, 1990 (Julian Date 025), 3-4 - January 29, 1990 (Julian Date 029)
The new powdered metal plates are interchangeable with current steel plates. Part Numbers have changed as
listed in 3-4 CLUTCH APPLY PLATE .
-91 S/T Trucks, -90 C, G, L & M Body Vehicles (4.3L LB4 Engines Only)
The transmission may produce a noise or vibration with the torque converter clutch (TCC) applied. This may
happen if the damper spring stops in the torque converter damper bottom out against the damper plate. This may
occur in Hydra-Matic 4L60 models that are used with 4.3L LB4 engines.
Date of Production Change
The following dates show which transmissions contain torque converters with damper springs that may bottom
out against the spring stops.
Diagnosis
The following information will help you determine if vehicle has a vibration condition caused by damper spring
stops bottoming out in the torque converter.
Conditions:
Road grades or trailer loads may cause conditions to be more prominent or extended.
The condition should disappear when the TCC is disengaged. To eliminate this condition, a Torque Converter
Assembly Package (8678979) containing damper springs with a higher spring rate and improved torque
capacity has been released for production and service.
ERRATIC OR NO UPSHIFT
A Hydra-Matic 4L60 transmission with an erratic or no upshift condition may be due to "Applecoring" or the
governor driven gear. "Applecoring" may be caused by nicks and burrs on the governor drive gear. Beginning
July 6, 1987 all transmissions were produced with the new governor driven gear and pin package (8663995).
Beginning February 28, , all Hydra-Matic 4L60 transmissions have been built using the new short lip
design. Short lip seals are interchangeable with previous seals. All eight seals are available in overhaul kit or in
two separate packages. See NEW PISTON SEAL PACKAGES .
Two sets of spacer plate gaskets are supplied with each transmission overhaul service kit. One set is for use on
model years 1982-86, and the other set for model years 1987-89. The difference between the two sets of gaskets
is the addition of holes in 1987 to accommodate an auxiliary valve body.
If the incorrect (1982-86) gasket set is used on a 1987-89 model year transmission, with or without an auxiliary
valve body, the third clutch exhaust passage will be blocked. This may cause slipping or flaring during a 3-2
shift, a delayed 3-2 downshift, or a burned 3-4 clutch. See PROPER SPACER PLATE GASKET
SELECTION .
Some Hydra-Matic 4L60 YNM Model transmissions, a 5.7L (Police only) may exhibit a loss of wide open
throttle 3-4 upshift when hot. Beginning April 24, , all YNM model transmissions were built with a new control
valve assembly containing the new 3-4 throttle valve and sleeve. When servicing for a no wide open throttle 3-4
upshift when hot, install the new 3-4 throttle valve and sleeve. The new control valve assembly is also available
if it is necessary to replace the control valve assembly complete. See YNM MODEL SERVICE PARTS .
When servicing a transmission for a binding in reverse condition, remove the control valve assembly and
inspect the 4-3 sequence valve and the 2-3 shift valve. Either valve, if stuck in the upshifted position, will result
in a binding condition. To correct this condition, the valve body must be completely disassembled and
reconditioned.
Inspect the transmission bottom pan for clutch material or burned fluid. Evidence of this will require further
transmission diagnosis. Repairs may include complete transmission reconditioning, including disassembly and
reconditioning of the transmission pump and possible torque converter replacement.
Complete the cleaning of the hydraulic circuit by changing the transmission fluid and filter and flushing the
transmission cooler and cooler pipes.
CAUTION: Overtorquing the bolts during unit reassembly can cause valve to bind.
This condition may become more apparent as the unit warms to operating
temperature. Correct bolt torque specifications for control valve assembly
are 72-120 INCH lbs. (8-14 N.m). Torquing bolts to minimum specification,
72 INCH lbs. (8 N.m) is recommended.
1990 C Bodies
Vehicles may exhibit a clunking noise during a garage shift or a driveline clunk during hard acceleration.
Vehicles may be affected if they were built within the following VIN numbers ranges:
This condition can be repaired by installing a reinforcement plate in the tailshaft crossover support. To install,
remove the nut and washer from the underside of the transmission crossmember. Install reinforcement plate
(15567681) onto the bolt that passes through crossmember and replace the washer and nut. Torque the nut 40
ft.lbs. (54 N.m).
A new transmission 2-4 band has changes to the apply and anchor brackets, locating tabs, and the addition of a
"lube window". The lube window was added to direct lubricating transmission fluid to the bank friction material
while the band is not applied. Structural changes to the apply and anchor brackets increase their durability and
the locating tabs were added to aid in assembly.
The new band is interchangeable with the previous band and should be used for service whenever possible. As
soon as the previous bands are used up, the new bands will become available. See 2-4 BAND ASSEMBLY .
2-4 BAND ASSEMBLY
Part Name Previous Part Number New Part Number
Band Assembly-2/4 8654144 8673175
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Cooler Pipe Connector 28 (38)
Detent Spring-To-Valve Body Bolt 18 (24)
Extension Housing Bolt 26 (35)
Manual Shaft-To-Detent Lever Nut 23 (31)
Oil Pump Cover-To-Body Bolt 18 (24)
Oil Pump-To-Case Bolt 18 (24)
Park Bracket-To-Case Bolt 18 (24)
Pressure Plugs 1/4 X 18" 18 (24)
Torque Converter-To-Flexplate Bolt 46 (62)
INCH Lbs. (N.m)
Accumulator Cover-To-Case Bolt 96 (11.0)
Auxiliary Valve Body Bolt 96 (11.0)
Oil Pan-To-Case Bolt 96 (11.0)
Oil Passage Cover Bolt 96 (11.0)
Pressure Plugs 1/8 X 27" 96 (11.0)
Pressure Switches 96 (11.0)
Solenoid Bolt 96 (11.0)
Speed Sensor Bolt 89 (10.0)
T.V. Cable Bolt 75 (8.5)
Valve Body-To-Case Bolt (1) 96 (11.0)
(1) Tighten valve body bolts in a spiral pattern starting in center of valve body.
TRANSMISSION REMOVAL & INSTALLATION - A/T
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle on hoist. Drain transfer case. Disconnect speedometer cable. Remove skid plate
and crossmember supports as necessary. Disconnect rear drive shaft from transfer case and tie up away
from work area.
2. Disconnect front drive shaft from transfer case and tie up shaft away from work area. Disconnect shift
lever rod from shift rail link. Support transfer case and remove bolts attaching transfer case to
transmission adapter.
3. Move transfer case to rear until input shaft clears adapter and lower assembly from vehicle.
Installation
Removal
1. With transfer case shift lever in "4H" position, disconnect negative battery cable. Raise vehicle and
remove skid plate. Drain transfer case. Mark front and rear output shaft yokes and drive shafts for
reassembly reference and remove shafts.
2. Disconnect speedometer cable and vacuum harness from transfer case. Remove shift lever from case.
Remove catalytic converter hanger bolts at converter. Raise transmission and transfer case assembly with
jack and remove transmission mount bolts. Remove mount.
3. Lower complete assembly. Support transfer case alone and remove transmission-to-transfer case bolts.
Remove shift lever bracket from transfer case adapter in order to reach upper left attaching bolt.
4. Separate transfer case from transmission adapter and remove from vehicle.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Always use a new gasket between the transfer case and adapter.
Removal
1. Place transfer case in "4H". Raise vehicle. Drain lubricant from transfer case. Remove cotter pin from
shift lever swivel. Mark transfer case front and rear output shaft yokes and drive shafts for assembly
alignment reference.
2. Disconnect speedometer cable and indicator switch wires. Disconnect front drive shaft at transfer case
yoke. Disconnect parking brake cable guide from pivot located on right frame rail, if necessary. Remove
engine strut rod from transfer case.
3. Place support under transfer case and remove transfer case-to-transmission adapter bolts. Move transfer
case assembly rearward until free of transmission output shaft and remove assembly. Remove all gasket
material from rear of transmission adapter housing.
Installation
Removal
1. Place transfer case in "4H". Raise vehicle. Drain lubricant from transfer case. Disconnect shift lever
swivel, speed sensor wire and indicator switch wire. Remove front and rear drive shafts. Mark shafts and
flange for reference at reassembly.
2. Disconnect parking brake cable guide from pivot located on right frame rail. Remove transfer case-to-
transmission adapter bolts. Support transfer case with a suitable stand.
3. Remove skid shield and plate. Remove transfer case by moving transfer case rearward until it is free of
transmission output shaft. Clean gasket material.
Installation
To install reverse removal procedure. Be sure to install a new gasket and fill transfer case with Dexron II.
Removal
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove air cleaner and disconnect T.V. or detent cable at carburetor.
Remove dipstick and filler tube support bracket bolt. Raise and support vehicle. Mark drive shaft for
reassembly reference and remove from vehicle.
2. Disconnect speedometer cable and shift linkage and all electrical leads from transmission. Remove
transmission support brackets (if present) and flywheel inspection cover.
3. Mark flex plate and torque converter for reassembly in same position and remove torque converter-to-flex
plate bolts. Disconnect catalytic converter support bracket (if equipped).
4. Remove transmission rear mount bolts. Support transmission with jack and raise slightly. Remove
transmission support-to-frame bolts and insulators. Remove support.
5. Lower transmission enough to remove oil cooler lines and T.V. or detent cable from transmission.
Disconnect lines and cable. Support engine with jack and remove transmission-to-engine bolts.
6. Disconnect transmission assembly from engine. Install Torque Converter Retainer (J-21366) and remove
transmission from vehicle.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Before installing flex plate-to-converter bolts, make certain that the weld
nuts on converter are flush with the flex plate and the converter rotates freely by hand in this position. Finger
tighten all 3 bolts before tightening to specification.
ASTRO/SAFARI VAN
Removal
1. Open hood and disconnect negative cable at battery. Remove engine cover. Disconnect T.V. cable at its
upper end. Raise vehicle. Remove drive shaft. Disconnect speedometer cable at transmission. Disconnect
shift linkage at transmission.
2. Disconnect all electrical leads at transmission and any clips that retain leads to transmission case. Remove
transmission support brace attaching bolts at converter. Disconnect exhaust crossover pipe from exhaust
manifolds.
3. Remove converter cover and mark flywheel and torque converter to maintain original balance. Remove
torque converter to flywheel bolts and/or nuts. Position a transmission jack under transmission and raise it
slightly.
4. Remove transmission crossmember to mount bolts and crossmember to frame bolts (and insulator if
used). Slide crossmember rearward and remove from vehicle. Lower transmission to gain access to oil
cooler lines and T.V. cable attachments. Disconnect oil cooler lines and T.V. cable. Cap all openings.
5. Support engine with a suitable tool and remove transmission to engine bolts. Disconnect transmission
assembly, being careful not to damage any cables, lines or linkage. Install Torque Converter Holder (J-
21366) and remove transmission from vehicle.
Installation
"K" SERIES
Removal
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove air cleaner and disconnect T.V. or detent cable at carburetor.
Remove transfer case shift lever knob and boot. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Mark drive shafts for reassembly reference and remove from vehicle. Disconnect speedometer cable, shift
linkage and all electrical leads from transmission and transfer case. Disconnect transfer case shift linkage.
3. Remove transmission support strut rods and flywheel inspection cover. Mark flex plate and converter for
reassembly reference. Remove torque converter-to-flex plate retaining bolts.
4. Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines from transmission. Using a transmission jack, support
transmission and transfer case. Remove transfer case-to-frame bracket bolts. Remove mount bolts and
transmission crossmember.
5. Remove transmission/transfer case assembly mounting bolts and remove assembly from vehicle. Separate
transmission from transfer case.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Before installing flex plate-to-converter bolts, make certain that the weld
nuts on converter are flush with the flex plate and the converter rotates freely by hand in this position. Finger
tighten all 3 bolts before tightening to specifications.
NOTE: On 4WD models, refer to TRANSFER CASE procedures to remove transfer case.
Removal
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove air cleaner and disconnect T.V. cable at carburetor. Raise and
support vehicle.
2. Mark drive shaft for reassembly reference and remove shaft. Disconnect speedometer cable, shift linkage
and all electrical leads from transmission. On 4WD models, remove brake line to crossmember clips and
remove crossmember.
3. Remove transmission support brace bolts and converter cover (if equipped). Remove exhaust crossover
pipe and converter attaching bolts. Remove crossover and converter as an assembly.
4. Remove flywheel inspection plate and mark flex plate and torque converter-to-flex plate bolts.
Disconnect catalytic converter support bracket.
5. Place a jack under transmission and raise slightly. Remove transmission support-to-frame bolts and
insulators. Remove left body mounting bolts and loosen radiator support mount bolt.
6. Raise cab on left side as needed to remove upper transmission-to-engine bolts. Support cab with wood
block between body and frame. Slide transmission support towards rear and lower transmission enough to
remove oil cooler lines and T.V. cable. Disconnect lines and cable.
7. Support engine with jack and remove remaining transmission-to-engine bolts. Slide transmission away
from engine and install Torque Converter Retainer (J-21366) to prevent converter damage during
removal. Remove transmission.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Before installing flex plate-to-converter bolts, make certain that the weld
nuts on converter are flush with the flex plate and the converter rotates freely by hand in this position. Finger
tighten all 3 bolts before tightening to specifications.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Transmission-to-Engine Bolts
"S & T" Series 25 (34)
All Others 35 (47)
Converter-to-Flex Plate
"S & T" Series 35 (47)
All Others 35 (47)
Transmission Mount-to-Crossmember Bolts
"S & T" Series 25 (34)
All Others 35 (47)
Transmission-to-Mount Bolts
"S & T" Series 35 (47)
All Others 35 (47)
Crossmember-to-Frame Bolts
"S & T" Series 25 (34)
All Others 35 (47)
Transfer Case-to-Adapter Bolts
"S & T" Series 20-25 (27-34)
All Others 25 (34)
Transmission-to-Adapter Bolts 25 (34)
GENERAL INFORMATION
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
Fig. 1: Ignition Secondary Trouble Shooting Chart
Fig. 2: Ignition Primary Trouble Shooting Chart
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to DIAGNOSTIC, or
TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
BRAKES
BRAKE SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
ENGINE MECHANICAL
COOLING SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
ENGINE PERFORMANCE
CARBURETOR TROUBLE SHOOTING:
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE: Diesel engines mechanical diagnosis is the same as gasoline engines for items
such as noisy valves, bearings, pistons, etc. The following trouble shooting
covers only items pertaining to diesel engines.
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE: For additional electronic fuel injection trouble shooting information, see the
appropriate article in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE section (not all vehicles have
Computer Engine Control articles). Information is provided there for diagnosing
fuel system problems on vehicles with electronic fuel injection.
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
Fig. 3: Ignition Secondary Trouble Shooting Chart
Fig. 4: Ignition Primary Trouble Shooting Chart
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE: Before diagnosing an electronic ignition system, ensure that all wiring is
connected properly between distributor, wiring connector and spark plugs.
Ignition problem will show up either as: Engine Will Not Start or Engine Runs
Rough.
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE: Diesel engines mechanical diagnosis is the same as gasoline engines for items
such as noisy valves, bearings, pistons, etc. The following trouble shooting
covers only items pertaining to diesel engines.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION
MANUAL TRANSMISSION TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION/TRANSAXLE TROUBLE SHOOTING
Condition Possible Cause
Noisy In Forward Gears Low gear oil level, Loose bell housing bolts, Worn
bearings or gears
Clunk On Deceleration (FWD Only) Loose engine mounts, Worn inboard CV joints,
Worn differential pinion shaft, Side gear hub
counterbore in case worn oversize
Gear Clash When Shifting Forward Gears Clutch Out Of Adjustment, Shift linkage damaged
or out of adjustment, Gears or synchronizers
damaged, Low gear oil level
Transmission Noisy When Moving (RWD Only) Worn rear outputshaft bearing
Quiet In Neutral With Clutch Engaged
Gear Rattle Worn bearings, Wrong gear oil, Low gear oil, Worn
gears
Steady Ticking At Idle (Increases With RPM) Broken tooth on gear
Gear Clash When Shifting Forward Gears Worn or broken synchronizers
Loud Whine In Reverse Normal condition (1)
Noise When Stepping On Clutch Bad release bearing, Worn pilot bearing
Ticking Or Screeching As Clutch Is Engaged Faulty release bearing, Uneven pressure plate
fingers
Click Or Snap When Clutch Is Engaged Worn clutch fork, Worn or broken front bearing
retainer
Transmission Shifts Hard Clutch not releasing, Shift mechanism binding,
Clutch installed backwards
Will Not Shift Into One Gear, Shifts Into All Others Bent shift fork, Worn detent balls
Locked Into Gear, Cannot Shift Clutch adjustment, Worn detent balls
Transmission Jumps Out Of Gear Pilot bearing worn, Bent shift fork, Worn gear teeth
or face, Excessive gear train end play, Worn
synchronizers, Missing detent ball spring, Shift
mechanism worn or out of adjustment, Engine or
transmission mount bolts loose or out of adjustment,
Transmission not aligned
Shift Lever Rattle Worn shift lever or detents, Worn shift forks, Worn
synchronizers sleeve
Shift Lever Hops Under Acceleration Worn engine or transmission mounts
(1) Most units use spur cut gears in reverse and are noisy
POWERTRAIN
CLUTCH TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
Unrelated Noises
Some driveline trouble symptoms are also common to the engine, transmission, wheel bearings, tires, and other
parts of the vehicle. Ensure cause of trouble actually is in the drive axle before adjusting, repairing, or replacing
any of its parts.
A few conditions can sound just like drive axle noise and have to be considered in pre-diagnosis. The 4 most
common noises are exhaust, tires, CV/universal joints and wheel trim rings.
In certain conditions, the pitch of the exhaust gases may e gear whine. At other times, it may be mistaken for a
wheel bearing rumble.
Tires, especially radial and snow, can have a high-pitched tread whine or roar, similar to gear noise. Also, some
non-standard tires with an unusual tread construction may emit a roar or whine.
Defective CV/universal joints may cause clicking noises or excessive driveline play that can be improperly
diagnosed as drive axle problems.
Trim and moldings also can cause a whistling or whining noise. Ensure none of these components are causing
the noise before disassembling the drive axle.
Gear Noise
A "howling" or "whining" noise from the ring and pinion gear can be caused by an improper gear pattern, gear
damage, or improper bearing preload. It can occur at various speeds and driving conditions, or it can be
continuous.
Before disassembling axle to diagnose and correct gear ke sure that tires, exhaust, and vehicle trim have been
checked as possible causes.
Chuckle
This is a particular rattling noise that sounds like a stick against the spokes of a spinning bicycle wheel. It
occurs while decelerating from 40 MPH and usually can be heard until vehicle comes to a complete stop. The
frequency varies with the speed of the vehicle.
A chuckle that occurs on the driving phase is usually caused ive clearance due to differential gear wear, or by a
damaged tooth on the coast side of the pinion or ring gear. Even a very small tooth nick or a ridge on the edge
of a gear tooth is enough the cause the noise.
This condition can be corrected simply by cleaning the gear tooth nick or ridge with a small grinding wheel. If
either gear is damaged or scored badly, the gear set must be replaced. If metal has broken loose, the carrier and
housing must be cleaned to remove particles that could cause damage.
Knock
This is very similar to a chuckle, though it may be louder, and occur on acceleration or deceleration. Knock can
be caused by a gear tooth that is damaged on the drive side of the ring and pinion gears. Ring gear bolts that are
hitting the carrier casting can cause knock. Knock can also be due to excessive end play in the axle shafts.
Clunk
Clunk is a metallic noise heard when an automatic transmission is engaged in Reverse or Drive, or when throttle
is applied or released. It is caused by backlash somewhere in the driveline, but not necessarily in the axle. To
determine whether driveline clunk is caused by the axle, check the total axle backlash as follows:
1. Raise vehicle on a frame or twinpost hoist so that drive wheels are free. Clamp a bar between axle
companion flange and a part of the frame or body so that flange cannot move.
2. On conventional drive axles, lock the left wheel to keep it from turning. On all models, turn the right
wheel slowly until it is felt to be in Drive condition. Hold a chalk marker on side of tire about 12" from
center of wheel. Turn wheel in the opposite direction until it is again felt to be in Drive condition.
3. Measure the length of the chalk mark, which is the total axle backlash. If backlash is one inch or less,
drive axle is not the source of clunk noise.
Bearing Whine
Bearing whine is a high-pitched sound similar to a whistle. It is usually caused by malfunctioning pinion
bearings. Pinion bearings operate at drive shaft speed. Roller wheel bearings may whine in a similar manner if
they run completely dry of lubricant. Bearing noise will occur at all driving speeds. This distinguishes it from
gear whine, which usually comes and goes as speed changes.
Bearing Rumble
Bearing rumble sounds like marbles being tumbled. It is usually caused by a malfunctioning wheel bearing. The
lower pitch is because the wheel bearing turns at only about 1/3 of drive shaft speed.
Chatter On Turns
This is a condition where the entire front or rear of vehicle vibrates when vehicle is moving. The vibration is
plainly felt as well as heard. Extra differential thrust washers installed during axle repair can cause a condition
of partial lock-up that creates this chatter.
Axle Shaft Noise
Axle shaft noise is similar to gear noise and pinion bearing whine. Axle shaft bearing noise will normally
distinguish itself from gear noise by occurring in all driving modes (Drive, cruise, coast and float), and will
persist with transmission in Neutral while vehicle is moving at problem speed.
If vehicle displays this noise condition, remove suspect parts, replace wheel seals and install a new set of
bearings. Re-evaluate vehicle for noise before removing any internal components.
Vibration
Vibration is a high-frequency trembling, shaking or grinding condition (felt or heard) that may be constant or
variable in level and can occur during the total operating speed range of the vehicle.
The types of vibrations that can be felt in the vehicle can d into 3 main groups:
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
For definitions of listed noises or sounds, see DRIVE AXLE - NOISE DIAGNOSIS
under POWERTRAIN.
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
BASIC STEERING COLUMN TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART
CONDITION & POSSIBLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Noise in Steering
Coupling pulled apart See STEERING COLUMNS
article
Column not correctly aligned See STEERING COLUMNS
article
Broken lower joint Replace joint
Horn contact ring not See STEERING COLUMN
article
Bearing not lubricated See STEERING COLUMN
article
Shaft snap ring not properly seated Reseat or replace snap ring
Plastic spherical joint not lubricated See STEERING COLUMN
article
Shroud or housing loose Tighten holding screws
Lock plate retaining ring not seated See STEERING COLUMN
article
Loose sight shield Tighten holding screws
High Steering Shaft Effort
Column assembly misaligned See STEERING COLUMN
article
Improperly installed dust shield Adjust or replace
Tight steering universal joint See STEERING COLUMN
article
High Shift Effort
Column is out of alignment See STEERING COLUMN
article
Improperly installed dust shield Adjust or replace
Seals or bearings not lubricated See STEERING COLUMNS
article
Mounting bracket screws too long Replace with new shorter
screws
Burrs on shift tube Remove burrs or replace tube
Lower bowl bearing assembled wrong See STEERING COLUMN
article
Shift tube bent or broken Replace as necessary
Improper adjustment of shift levers See STEERING COLUMN
article
Improper Trans. Shifting
Sheared shift tube joint Replace as necessary
Sheared lower shaft lever Replace as necessary
Improper shift lever adjustment See STEERING COLUMN
article
Improper gate plate adjustment See STEERING COLUMN
article
Excess Play in Column
Instrument panel bracket bolts loose Tighten bolts and check
bracket
Broken weld nut on jacket See STEERING COLUMN
article
Instrument bracket capsule sheared See STEERING COLUMN
article
Column bracket/jacket bolts loose Tighten bolts and check
bracket
Steering Locks in Gear
Release lever mechanism See STEERING COLUMN
article
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. The purpose of this Trouble
Shooting information is to provide a list of common causes to problem
symptoms. For model-specific Trouble Shooting, refer to SUBJECT,
DIAGNOSTIC, or TESTING articles available in the section(s) you are accessing.
DESCRIPTION
Hydraulic system bleeding is necessary any time air has been introduced into system. Bleed brakes at all 4
wheels if master cylinder lines have been disconnected or master cylinder has run dry. Bleed brakes with
vacuum bleeding equipment, pressure bleeding equipment or by manually pumping brake pedal while using
bleeder tubes. Always bleed brake lines in sequence. See BLEEDING SEQUENCE table in this article.
NOTE: Hydro-Boost bleeding procedure is different than hydraulic brake bleeding. See
BRAKE SYSTEM article.
BLEEDING
MASTER CYLINDER BLEEDING
Bench Bleeding
1. Master cylinder must be bled before installation to prevent excessive amounts of air from entering the
brake system, creating poor brake operation.
2. Place master cylinder in soft-jawed vise. DO NOT tighten vise enough to damage master cylinder. Install
bleeder tubes in both outlets of master cylinder. See Fig. 1.
3. Fill master cylinder with clean DOT 3 brake fluid. Ensure ends of bleeder tubes are submerged in brake
fluid.
4. Using proper sized rod, apply and release master cylinder until no air bubbles exist in brake fluid flow.
Once all air bubbles are gone from master cylinder secure cap and install.
5. Bleeder tubes should be left installed on master cylinder until master cylinder in installed. Master cylinder
must be bled at wheels after installation.
Bleeding On Vehicle
1. Install master cylinder on vehicle after bench bleeding. Remove bleeder lines and install brake lines. DO
NOT fully tighten brake lines at this time.
2. Slowly force brake pedal to the floor and hold in this position. Tighten brake lines and release brake
pedal. Repeat procedure until no air bubbles exist at brake lines. Remaining wheel cylinder or calipers
may require bleeding.
1. Prior to pressure tank bleeding procedure, the hold off valve incorporated in the combination valve must
be correctly positioned. This allows brake fluid to flow through combination valve to entire brake system.
2. During bleeding procedure, valve stem of hold off valve may be retained using Valve Retainer (J-23709).
See Fig. 2. Remove valve retainer once brake bleeding procedure is complete.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid clamp to position valve stem. Damage to the valve
assembly may result causing brake failure.
NOTE: On vehicles equipped with Hydro-Boost, ensure no air bubbles exist in power
steering reservoir. If air bubbles exist, Hydro-Boost system must be bled before
bleeding brake system. See BLEEDING, HYDRO-BOOST SYSTEM under
HYDRAULIC POWER BRAKE UNIT in the BRAKE SYSTEM article.
VACUUM BLEEDING
Fill master cylinder. Install vacuum bleed equipment to first bleeder valve to be serviced. Open bleeder valve
3/4-1 turn. Depress vacuum pump and pull fluid into reservoir jar. Bleed each bleeder valve in proper sequence.
See BLEEDING SEQUENCE table.
PRESSURE BLEEDING
1. Clean master cylinder cap and surrounding area. Remove cap. With pressure tank at least 1/2 full, connect
to master cylinder with adapters. Attach bleeder hose to first bleeder valve to be serviced. See
BLEEDING SEQUENCE table.
2. Place other end of hose in clean glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid so end of hose is
submerged in fluid. The hold off valve must be positioned properly before pressure bleeding (if
equipped). See HYDRAULIC CONTROL VALVES.
3. Open release valve on pressure bleeder. Set pressure bleeder so 20-25 psi. (1.4-1.8 kg/cm2 ) is used for
bleeding pressure or follow equipment manufacturer's pressure instructions. Open bleeder screw 3/4-1
turn and note fluid flow.
4. Close bleeder screw when fluid flowing is free of bubbles. Repeat procedure on remaining wheels in
proper sequence. Check brake pedal operation after bleeding has been completed.
5. Remove pressure bleeding equipment and valve retainer from hold off valve. Ensure that master cylinder
is full of fluid.
MANUAL BLEEDING
NOTE: When bleeding disc brakes, air may tend to cling to caliper walls. Lightly tap
caliper, while bleeding, to aid in removal of air.
1. Fill master cylinder. Install bleeder hose to first bleeder valve to be serviced. See BLEEDING
SEQUENCE table. Submerge other end of hose in clean glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid.
2. Open bleeder valve 3/4-1 turn. Depress brake pedal slowly through full travel. Close bleeder valve and
release pedal. Repeat procedure until flow of fluid shows no signs of air bubbles.
NOTE: When bleeding brake system manually, ensure bleeder valve is closed when
brake pedal is released.
BLEEDING SEQUENCE
Before bleeding system, exhaust all vacuum from power unit by depressing brake pedal several times. Bleed
master cylinder with bleeder screws. Bleed slave cylinder on vehicles equipped with remote mount power assist
units. Bleed wheel cylinders and calipers in sequence. See BLEEDING SEQUENCE table.
BLEEDING SEQUENCE
Application Sequence
All Models RR, LR, RF, LF
BRAKE SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION
ANTI-LOCK BRAKE SYSTEM
Some General Motors light duty trucks use a Rear Wheel Anti-Lock (RWAL) system to prevent wheel lock-up
during heavy braking. This is done by regulating fluid pressure to rear wheel cylinders. Pressure regulating is
adjusted by a control valve, located under the master cylinder. Control valve is controlled by an Electronic
Control Unit (ECU), located next to master cylinder.
The ECU receives signals from a speed sensor, located in the transmission on 2WD models or in transfer case
on 4WD models, and the stoplight switch. Speed sensor signal is sent through a Digital Ratio Adapter
Controller (DRAC) which is part of the instrument cluster. If axle ratio is changed, DRAC must be replaced.
The system is disabled when vehicle is in 4WD.
On models equipped with automatic transmission, an in-line resistor, between module and stoplight switch,
prevents battery voltage from energizing the transmission converter clutch solenoid. The RWAL system is
connected to the existing brake warning light on the instrument panel. When ignition is turned on, warning light
should come on for approximately 2 seconds to indicate system is operating.
Components unique to the anti-lock brake system are covered in a separate article. See ANTI-LOCK BRAKE
SYSTEM article in the BRAKES Section.
BRAKE BOOSTER
A combined vacuum-hydraulic unit which uses a combination of intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric
pressure to provide power assist. Reserve vacuum supply and vacuum check valve allow several brake
applications, with vacuum assist, after engine has stopped.
Unit is composed of 2 main sections. The vacuum power cylinder and the dual master cylinder. Vacuum power
cylinder contains power piston assembly, which houses control valve, reaction mechanism, and power piston
return spring.
Unit is mounted on firewall and connected directly to brake pedal. A combination of vacuum and atmospheric
pressure is used to provide power assist.
Power cylinder houses power piston assembly, which contains primary and secondary diaphragms, pistons,
floating control valve, reaction piston, and disc.
DISC BRAKES
Delco floating caliper disc brake assembly uses a single piston caliper. The caliper is mounted to an anchor
plate which is bolted to the steering knuckle. The caliper assembly floats through 4 rubber bushings on 2 steel
guide pins.
The pins are threaded into caliper anchor plate. When brakes are applied, hydraulic pressure is passed to caliper
piston. This force pushes inner brake pad against inner rotor braking surface.
Pressure then moves caliper inward on guide pins, thus forcing outer disc pad against outer rotor braking
surface. When brakes are released, pressure is removed from cylinder. Rotor runout moves piston back off of
rotor to maintain sufficient rotor-to-pad clearance.
DRUM BRAKE
Delco single anchor, duo-servo type brake assemblies are used on the rear of all models. The assemblies consist
of a support plate, 2 brake shoes, return springs, automatic adjuster components and a duo-servo wheel cylinder.
Automatic adjusters consist of a connecting link, override lever, override spring, return spring, actuating lever
and an adjusting screw. Normal adjustment is accomplished through movement of actuating lever and
secondary shoe during application of brakes when vehicle is operated in reverse.
This switch is used to warn vehicle operator that one of the hydraulic systems has failed. When hydraulic
pressure is equal in both front and rear systems, switch piston remains centered and does not contact terminal in
switch
If brake system fails, hydraulic pressure moves piston toward failed side. Shoulder of piston then contacts
switch terminal to provide for brake warning light.
Proportioning Valve
Valve operates by restricting, at a given ratio, hydraulic pressure to rear brakes when system hydraulic pressure
reaches a certain point. This improves front-to-rear brake balance at high speed braking, when a percentage of
rear weight is transferred to front wheels.
Valve reduces rear brake pressure, and delays rear wheel skid. On light brake application, valve allows full
hydraulic pressure to rear brakes.
Metering Valve
This valve holds off pressure to front disc brakes to allow rear drum brake shoes to overcome return spring
pressure and make contact with rear drums. This prevents locking front brakes on slippery or icy surfaces under
light braking conditions. Valve has no effect on front brake pressure during hard braking conditions.
Fig. 2: Brake System Combination Valve
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
MASTER CYLINDER
The Delco Quick Take-Up master cylinder is a 2 piece unit with cast master cylinder body and plastic fluid
reservoir. It is designed for use with systems utilizing low drag calipers.
This master cylinder includes a quick take-up valve. This valve delivers a large volume of fluid, at low pressure,
upon initial application of brakes. The fluid quickly displaces retracted calipers, placing brake linings in contact
with brake rotors and drums.
BLEEDING
HYDRAULIC BRAKE BLEEDING
Hydraulic system bleeding is necessary any time air has been introduced into system. Bleed brakes at all 4
wheels if master cylinder lines have been disconnected or master cylinder has been run dry. Bleed brakes with
pressure bleeding equipment or by manually pumping brake pedal while using bleeder tubes.
On disc brake equipped vehicles, metering section of hydraulic control valve must be deactivated before
bleeding to permit fluid to flow to front brakes. This is especially important when pressure bleeding.
Use Combination Valve Depressor (J-23709), If tool is not available, hold valve open by hand. DO NOT use
"C" clamp or other non-yielding device to hold valve open.
1. Clean master cylinder cap and surrounding area. Remove cap. Deactivate hydraulic control valve. With
pressure tank at least 1/2 full, connect to master cylinder with adapters. Attach bleeder hose to first
bleeder valve to be serviced. See BLEEDING SEQUENCE table.
2. Place other end of hose in clean glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid so end of hose is
submerged in fluid. Open release valve on pressure bleeder. Follow equipment manufacturers pressure
instructions unless noted below.
3. Unscrew bleeder valve 3/4-1 turn noting fluid flow. When fluid flowing from cylinder to jar is free of
bubbles, close bleeder valve securely. Bleed remaining cylinders in correct sequence and in the same
manner. Remove tool from control valve.
NOTE: When bleeding disc brakes, air may tend to cling to caliper walls. Lightly tap
caliper, while bleeding, to aid in removal of air.
1. Fill master cylinder. Install bleeder hose to first bleeder valve to be serviced. See BLEEDING
SEQUENCE table. Submerge other end of hose in clean glass jar partially filled with clean brake fluid.
2. Open bleeder valve 3/4-1 turn. Depress brake pedal slowly through full travel. Close bleeder valve and
release pedal. Repeat procedure until flow of fluid shows no signs of air bubbles.
Fig. 3: Wheel Cylinder Bleeding Procedure Bleeder valve must be closed when brake pedal is released.
BLEEDING SEQUENCE
Before bleeding system, exhaust all vacuum from power unit by depressing brake pedal several times. Bleed
master cylinder if equipped with bleeder screws. Bleed slave cylinder on vehicles equipped with remote mount
power assist units. Bleed wheel cylinders and calipers in sequence. See BLEEDING SEQUENCE table.
BLEEDING SEQUENCE
Application Sequence
General Motors RR, LR, RF, LF
ADJUSTMENTS
DISC BRAKE
Pad wear is automatically compensated for by piston moving outward in cylinder bore. No disc pad adjustment
in service is required.
Inspect condition of disc pads whenever wheels are removed. If any disc pad is worn to within 1/32" (.8 mm) of
rivet heads, replace all disc pad sets on that axle.
1. Knock out lanced area in brake drum with a punch. If drum is installed, it must be removed and all metal
removed from brake area.
2. Turn adjusting screw, through hole, until brake shoes expand and brake drums can just be turned by hand.
The drag should be equal at all wheels.
3. Back off adjusting screw 30 notches at each wheel. If drum still drags, back off an additional 1 or 2
notches. Install hole cover in drum.
Fig. 4: Exploded View of Single Anchor Brake Assembly
Tighten bearing nut to 12 ft. lbs. (16 N.m) on while spinning wheel forward. Back off nut until it is just loose.
Hand-tighten nut, then loosen slightly (no more than 1/12 turn) until cotter pin can be inserted. End play should
be .001-.005" (.03-.13 mm).
NOTE: On some models, production push rod is not adjustable. If production rod is
reused, gauging is to check proper assembly. If adjustable service push rod is
used to replace production rod, use procedure to set to correct rod length.
1. Place power unit in a vise with front housing up. Remove front seal to ensure all vacuum is released from
unit. Place master cylinder rod, flat end first, in piston rod retainer. Press down on rod with 50 lbs. (23
kg) pressure to make sure rod is seated.
Fig. 5: Checking Push Rod Height With Gauge (J-22647)
2. Place gauge (J-22647) over piston rod so it can be moved from left to right without contacting studs. The
center section of gauge has 2 levels.
3. The piston rod should always contact the lower level and never contact the highest level. If the push rod
does not contact gauge correctly, an adjustable push rod must be obtained.
4. Adjust locking screw on rod to obtain correct clearance with gauge. Apply silicone lubricant on the inside
diameter of front housing seal and place seal in position in housing depression.
1. With service brakes correctly adjusted, raise vehicle until both rear wheels are off ground. Loosen
equalizer adjusting nut. Apply parking brake 2 notches on 2WD models, (3 notches on 4WD models),
from fully released position.
2. Tighten adjusting nut until wheels cannot be rotated forward without excessive force. Loosen adjustment
until there is moderate drag when wheels are rotated in forward direction.
3. Release parking brake and ensure that there is no drag when wheels are turned in either direction.
1. With service brakes correctly adjusted, raise vehicle until both rear wheels are off ground. Loosen
equalizer adjusting nut. Apply parking brake 2 notches from fully released position.
2. Tighten adjusting nut until wheels can just be turned rearward with two hands but are locked when
attempting forward rotation. Release parking brake and ensure there is no drag when wheels are rotated in
either direction.
TESTING
PRESSURE DIFFERENTIAL WARNING SWITCH
Electrical Circuit
Disconnect wire from switch terminal and ground wire. Turn ignition switch to "ON" position. Warning lamp
should come on. If lamp dose not light, bulb is defective or wiring circuit is defective. Replace bulb or repair
wiring as necessary. When light comes on, turn ignition off and reconnect wire to switch.
Attach bleeder hose to either rear brake and immerse other end of hose in container with brake fluid. Turn
ignition switch to "ON" position, open bleeder screw while pressure is applied to brake pedal. Warning lamp
should light. Close bleeder screw before pressure is released from pedal. Reapply pedal pressure (moderate to
heavy). Light should go out. Repeat test on front system. Results should be same. Turn ignition off. If lamp
does not light on either system, but electrical system checked good, warning light switch part of valve is
defective.
NOTE: When servicing brake parts, do not create dust by grinding or sanding brake
linings or by using compressed air. Use water dampened shop towel to remove
dirt and dust from brake parts during disassembly.
Pad wear is automatically compensated for by piston moving outward in cylinder bore. No disc pad adjustment
is required. Inspect condition of disc pads whenever wheels are removed. If any pad is worn to within 1/32" (.8
mm) of rivet heads, replace all pad sets on axle.
Clean all parts except the brake lining and the brake drums with brake cleaning solvent. To remove brake fluid
contamination, clean all parts except the brake lining with denatured alcohol. Contaminated brake lining must
be replaced.
1. Pull back the wheel cylinder dust boots and check for evidence of leakage. If evidence of leakage is
noted, the cylinder should be disassembled, inspected and overhauled.
2. Polish the brake support plate ledges with fine emery cloth and inspect them for grooves that could
restrict shoe movement. If grooves exist after polishing, the support plate must be replaced. Inspect lining
wear pattern. If wear across the width of the lining is uneven, the drums should be checked for distortion,
the shoes for correct positioning, and the support plate for distortion.
3. Inspect all springs for evidence of overheating and fractures. Self-adjusting cables should be inspected for
kinks, fraying, or elongation of the eyelet. Inspect adjuster screws for freedom of rotation, and adjuster
lever for wear and distortion.
4. Replace defective brake parts.
NOTE: Power brake unit can be removed without removing master cylinder or
disconnecting brake lines.
Removal
1. Disconnect vacuum line from check valve or power unit. Remove nuts securing master cylinder to power
unit.
2. Pull master cylinder forward away from unit. Disconnect brake pedal from push rod. Remove power unit-
to-firewall bolts and remove unit.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedures. If equipped with adjustable push rod, adjust before installation. See
MASTER CYLINDER PUSH ROD under ADJUSTMENT.
Removal
1. Remove 2/3 of brake fluid from front reservoir in master cylinder. Raise vehicle and support with safety
stands. Remove wheel assembly. Place a large "C" clamp on caliper so that solid side of clamp rests
against metal part of outer disc pad.
2. Tighten "C" clamp until caliper moves away from vehicle far enough to push piston to bottom of bore.
Remove "C" clamp. Do not disconnect brake line to caliper. Remove 2 mounting bolts which retain
caliper to support bracket.
3. Lift caliper off rotor and remove inner disc pad. Pry out outer disc pad. Place caliper on front suspension
arm so that caliper weight is not supported by brake hose or remove caliper as necessary.
4. Remove shoe support spring from cavity in piston. Remove sleeves from inner ear in caliper. Remove
rubber bushings from grooves in each of 4 caliper ears.
Installation
1. Install new rubber bushings in 4 caliper ears. Install sleeves in bushings with installer tool (J-22835).
Position sleeves so that end toward disc pad is flush with machined surface of ear.
2. Install shoe support spring on inner disc pad. Place single tang end of spring over notch in center edge of
pad. Now press 2 tangs at spring end of inner disc pad over bottom edge of pad.
3. Place inner disc pad in caliper (with spring attached) so that the ear end of disc pad is down and the
bottom end is up. Install at an angle so that the spring rests on the inside diameter of piston.
4. Press down on both ends of disc pad until pad is in a flat position, resting on piston. Be sure to install
inner brake pads on the correct side. Wear sensor will be toward the rear of the caliper when correctly
installed.
5. Place outer disc pad in caliper with ears of pad over caliper ears. Tab at bottom of pad should be engaged
in caliper cut-out. Note left and right disc pads. Place caliper over rotor, line up caliper ears with holes in
the mounting bracket.
6. With caliper in place, make sure brake hose is not twisted. Start bolts through sleeves in inner caliper ears
and mounting bracket. Make sure that bolts pass under retaining ears in inner disc pad.
7. Push bolts through holes in outer disc pads and caliper ears. Thread bolts into mounting bracket and
tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (47 N.m). Fill master cylinder with new brake fluid.
8. If caliper hose was disconnected, bleed brake system. Pump brake pedal several times to seat disc pads
against rotor. Clinch upper ears of outer disc pad with channel lock pliers, placing 1 jaw on top of upper
ear and other jaw on bottom of disc pad, in notch.
9. After clinching, ears should be flat against caliper housing with no radial clearance. If clearance exists,
repeat procedure.
DISC ROTOR
1. Raise vehicle and support with safety stands. Remove brake caliper (do not disconnect brake line).
2. Remove grease cover from end of hub. Remove cotter pin nut, washer, and outer bearing. Remove rotor
and hub assembly.
Installation
Install rotor and hub assembly on spindle. Install outer bearing, washer, and nut. Adjust wheel bearings. See
Wheel Bearing Adjustment in appropriate SUSPENSION article listed below.
Raise vehicle and support with safety stands. Remove Wheel. Remove brake caliper. Do not disconnect brake
hose. Remove rotor.
Removal
1. Raise vehicle and support with safety stands. Remove wheel assembly and brake drum. It may be
necessary to back off brake shoe adjustment before removing drum. Unlock primary and secondary shoe
springs. Remove shoe hold down springs.
2. Lift up on actuator, unhook actuating link from anchor pin and remove link. Spread shoes enough to clear
wheel cylinder links. Remove parking brake strut and spring. Disconnect cable from lever. Remove brake
shoes.
Installation
1. Lubricate fulcrum end of parking brake lever with brake lubricant. Attach lever to secondary shoe. Make
sure lever moves free. Connect brake shoes together with adjuster spring.
2. Place adjuster screw in position. Make sure spring does not contact starwheel portion of adjusting screw.
Right hand thread adjusting screw should be on left side.
3. Make sure starwheel lines up with hole in backing plate. Apply a thin coating of brake lubricant to
contact surface on backing plate. Position brake shoes on backing plate.
4. Primary shoe (short lining) is to front. Connect cable to parking brake lever. Install strut between shoes.
Install actuator, return spring and actuator link. Install shoe hold down springs.
5. Install both primary and secondary shoe springs. Measure inside diameter of brake drum with measuring
gauge (J-21177). Expand brake shoes to dimension obtained on outside caliper portion of tool.
6. Install brake drum and wheel assembly. Bleed system if any portion of hydraulic system was opened.
Check fluid level in master cylinder and add as necessary.
MASTER CYLINDER
Removal
1. Disconnect front and rear hydraulic brake lines at master cylinder, and cover ends to prevent entry of
foreign matter.
2. On vehicles without power assist units, disconnect brake pedal push rod at brake pedal. Remove master
cylinder retaining bolts, and remove cylinder assembly from vehicle.
Installation
1. Position master cylinder on vehicle and install cylinder retaining bolts. Connect front and rear hydraulic
brake lines to cylinder.
2. Connect brake pedal push rod, if removed. Fill reservoir with clean brake fluid, and bleed hydraulic
system. See HYDRAULIC BRAKE BLEEDING .
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheels and brake drums. Loosen differential cover plate and drain
lubricant from axle. Remove cover plate.
2. Remove pinion shaft lock bolt. See Fig. 6 . Remove pinion shaft that goes between pinion gears. Push
axle shaft inward and remove "C" lock from end of axle shaft. Remove axle shaft.
3. Pry seal from axle housing. Using Slide Hammer (J-2619-01) and Bearing Puller (J-22813-01), remove
bearing from axle housing.
Installation
1. Using Handle (J-8092) and Bearing Installer (J-23765), install bearing in axle housing until bearing
installer bottoms against shoulder of axle housing. Lubricate bearing with axle lubricant.
2. Using Seal Installer (J-23771), install seal until it is even with surface of axle housing. Install axle shaft
and "C" lock. Pull axle shaft outward to ensure "C" lock seats in side gear.
3. Install NEW pinion shaft lock bolt. Tighten lock bolt to 25 ft. lbs. (34 N.m). Install differential cover and
new gasket. Refill drive axle with lubricant.
Removal
Remove dirt and foreign material from around wheel cylinder and pilot. Disconnect inlet tube line. Remove
wheel cylinder retainer using Wheel Cylinder Retainer Ring Remover (J-29839) or 2 awls. Insert remover or
awls into access slots between wheel cylinder pilot and retaining lock tabs. Bend both tabs away simultaneously
until wheel cylinder is released. See Fig. 7 .
Installation
To install, hold cylinder on backing plate by inserting a wood block between wheel cylinder and axle flange.
Install a new retaining spring over wheel cylinder, lining up retainer tabs with cylinder tab grooves. Drive
retainer into position using 1 1/8" socket and a 10" extension. Retainer is in position when tabs are snapped
under retainer abutment.
Removal
1. Raise vehicle and support with safety stands. Remove wheel assembly and brake drum. It may be
necessary to back off brake shoe adjustment before removing drum. Unlock primary and secondary shoe
springs. Remove shoe hold down springs.
2. Lift up on actuator, unhook actuating link from anchor pin and remove link. Spread shoes enough to clear
wheel cylinder links. Remove parking brake strut and spring. Disconnect cable from lever. Remove brake
shoes.
Installation
1. Lubricate fulcrum end of parking brake lever with brake lubricant. Attach lever to secondary shoe. Make
sure lever moves free. Connect brake shoes together with adjuster spring.
2. Place adjuster screw in position. Make sure spring does not contact starwheel portion of adjusting screw.
Right hand thread adjusting screw should be on left side.
3. Make sure starwheel lines up with hole in backing plate. Apply a thin coating of brake lubricant to
contact surface on backing plate. Position brake shoes on backing plate.
4. Primary shoe (short lining) is to front. Connect cable to parking brake lever. Install strut between shoes.
Install actuator, return spring and actuator link. Install shoe hold down springs.
5. Install both primary and secondary shoe springs. Measure inside diameter of brake drum with measuring
gauge (J-21177). Expand brake shoes to dimension obtained on outside caliper portion of tool.
6. Install brake drum and wheel assembly. Bleed system if any portion of hydraulic system was opened.
Check fluid level in master cylinder and add as necessary.
OVERHAUL
BRAKE BOOSTER - SINGLE DIAPHRAGM
Disassembly
1. Remove pushrod boot, silencer, front housing seal, grommet and vacuum check valve.
2. Scribe a mark on front and rear housings for reassembly reference. Scribe and unstake staked tabs. Install
booster in Holding Fixture (J-23456). See Fig. 8 .
Fig. 8: Unlocking & Locking Booster
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
3. Tighten fixture handscrew just enough to allow for housing rotation. Turn fixture handle counter-
clockwise until tabs on front housing are moved to unlocked position.
4. Remove power piston group, power piston return spring, and power piston bearing. Remove piston rod,
reaction retainer and power head silencer.
5. Grasp assembly at outside edge of divider and diaphragms. Hold with pushrod down against a hard
surface. Use a slight force or impact to dislodge diaphragm retainer.
6. Remove primary diaphragm, primary support plate, secondary power piston bearing, housing divider,
secondary support plate and diaphragm and power piston assembly.
Clean all plastic, metal and rubber parts in denatured alcohol. Blow out all passages, orifices and valve holes.
Air dry all parts. Slight rust on housing may be cleaned with crocus or emery cloth. Do not reinstall any rubber
parts with cuts, nicks or distortion. If in doubt, replace the part.
NOTE: Prior to installation of rubber, plastic, and metal friction parts, lubricate with
silicone lube.
Reassembly
1. Place power piston on bench with push rod end up. Install Assembly Cone (J-28458) over push rod end of
piston. Lubricate inside diameter of secondary diaphragm with silicon lubricant and fit in secondary
support plate.
2. Install secondary diaphragm and support plate over power piston and push down until it bottoms.
Lubricate inside diameter of secondary power piston bearing. Install bearing in housing divider with flat
surface of bearing on the same side as 6 raised lugs on divider.
3. Hold divider so that formed flange faces up. Press divider down over assembly cone and onto power
piston to rest against secondary diaphragm. Lubricate inside diameter of primary diaphragm and install in
primary support plate. Remove assembly cone from power piston, place primary support plate and
diaphragm assembly over power piston and push down until it bottoms.
4. Place diaphragm retainer over power piston and onto diaphragm. Install Assembly Cone (J-28458) over
power piston onto diaphragm retainer and strike with hammer until retainer is locked on neck of power
piston. Remove assembly cone.
5. Install reaction retainer, piston rod and power head silencer. Place primary power piston bearing in rear
housing center hole. Lubricate with silicone lubricant on inner diameter. Install rear housing in Holding
Fixture (J-23456). Attach power piston assembly to rear housing.
6. Install power piston return spring over reaction retainer. Install front housing and align scribe marks.
Tighten fixture handscrew just enough to allow for housing rotation. Rotate housing until tabs are fully
seated. Stake 2 housing tabs into sockets at 2 new locations 180° apart. Do not stake tabs that have
previously been staked.
7. Lubricate inside and outside diameters of grommet and front housing seal. Install seal, grommet, vacuum
check valve, silencer and push rod boot.
Disassembly
1. Remove pushrod boot, silencer, front housing seal, grommet and vacuum check valve.
2. Scribe a mark on front and rear housings for reassembly reference. Scribe and unstake staked tabs. Install
booster in Holding Fixture (J-23456). See Fig. 11 .
3. Tighten fixture handscrew just enough to allow for housing rotation. Turn fixture handle counter-
clockwise until tabs on front housing are moved to unlocked position. Carefully separate housings.
Remove power piston group, power piston return spring, and power piston bearing.
4. Remove push rod, reaction retainer and power head silencer. Grasp assembly at outside edge of divider
and diaphragms. Hold with push rod down against a hard surface.
5. Use a slight force or impact to dislodge diaphragm retainer. Remove primary diaphragm, primary support
plate and secondary power piston bearing. Remove housing divider, secondary support plate and
diaphragm and power piston assembly.
1. Clean all plastic, metal and rubber parts in denatured alcohol. Blow out all passages, orifices and valve
holes. Air dry all parts.
2. Slight rust on housing may be cleaned with crocus or emery cloth. Do not reinstall any rubber parts with
cuts, nicks or distortion. If in doubt, replace the part.
NOTE: Lubricate rubber, plastic, and metal friction parts with silicone lube before
assembly.
Reassembly
1. Place power piston on bench with push rod end up. Install assembly cone (J-28458) over push rod end of
piston. Lubricate inside diameter of secondary diaphragm with silicone lubricant and fit in secondary
support plate.
2. Install secondary diaphragm and support plate over power piston and push down until it bottoms. See Fig.
14 . Lubricate inside diameter of secondary power piston bearing and install in housing divider with flat
surface of bearing on the same side as 6 raised lugs on divider.
Fig. 14: Installing Secondary Diaphragm and Support Plate Use installer cone (J-28458).
3. Hold divider so that formed over flange faces up. Press divider down over assembly cone and onto power
piston to rest against secondary diaphragm. Lubricate inside diameter of primary diaphragm and install in
primary support plate.
4. Remove assembly cone from power piston. Place primary support plate and diaphragm assembly over
power piston and push down until it bottoms. Place diaphragm retainer over power piston and onto
diaphragm.
5. Install assembly cone (J-28458) over power piston onto diaphragm retainer and strike with hammer until
retainer is locked on neck of power piston. Remove assembly cone.
6. Install reaction retainer, piston rod, and power head silencer. Place primary power piston bearing in rear
housing center hole. Lubricate with silicone lubricant on inner diameter.
7. Install rear housing in Holding Fixture (J-23456). Attach power piston assembly to rear housing. Install
power piston return spring over reaction retainer. Install front housing and align scribe marks. Tighten
fixture handscrew just enough to allow for housing rotation. Rotate housing until tabs are fully seated.
Stake 2 housing tabs into sockets at 2 new locations 180° apart. Do not stake tabs that have previously
been staked.
8. Lubricate inside and outside diameters of grommet and front housing seal. Install seal, grommet, vacuum
check valve, silencer and push rod boot.
DISC CALIPER
Disassembly
1. Clean exterior of caliper with denatured alcohol and place on clean work surface. Remove brake hose,
discarding copper gasket. Drain brake fluid from caliper.
2. Use clean shop towels to pad interior of caliper and apply compressed air at caliper inlet to remove
piston. Use just enough pressure to ease piston out of bore.
3. Use screwdriver to pry boot out of caliper housing. Pry piston seal from its groove in caliper bore with a
piece of wood or plastic. Do not use metal tool of any type to remove piston seal. Remove bleeder valve
from housing.
Inspection
1. Boot, seal, rubber bushings, and sleeves are to be replaced each time caliper is overhauled. Clean all other
parts in denatured alcohol. Dry parts with dry compressed air.
NOTE: Using lubricated shop air will leave a film of mineral oil on metal parts.
This may damage rubber parts upon contact during reassembly.
2. Check guide pins for corrosion, breaks in plating or other damage. Do not attempt to clean pins; replace
them. Check outside diameter of piston for scoring, nicks, corrosion, and worn or damaged plating. If
surface defects exist, piston must be replaced.
3. Piston bore should be checked for similar defects. Bore is not plated, therefore, it may be polished with
crocus cloth. Thoroughly clean after polishing. Replace caliper housing if bore corrosion cannot easily be
cleaned out.
Reassembly
1. Lubricate bore in caliper housing and new piston seal with clean brake fluid. Position seal in caliper bore
groove.
2. Lubricate piston with clean brake fluid and assemble new boot into groove in piston with fold facing open
end of piston.
3. Insert piston into caliper bore using care not to unseat seal. Force piston to bottom of bore. Position outer
diameter of boot in caliper counterbore and drive in until fully seated.
4. Check boot installations to ensure retaining ring (molded into boot) is not bent, and that boot is installed
completely below caliper face. Install brake hose, using new copper gasket.
MASTER CYLINDER
Disassembly
1. Remove reservoir cover and diaphragm. Discard remaining brake fluid in reservoir. Push in on primary
piston and remove snap ring.
2. Apply compressed air at forward brake line hole while plugging rear hole. Pistons will be forced out at
open end of master cylinder.
3. Remove spring retainer and seals from secondary piston. Discard seals. Clamp mounting ear of master
cylinder in vise and pry off reservoir.
4. Do not attempt to remove take-up valve from master cylinder. It is not a serviceable component. Remove
reservoir grommets and discard.
Fig. 16: Quick Take-Up Master Cylinder ("S" Series Shown)
Inspection
Inspect cylinder bore for scoring or corrosion. If signs of corrosion are evident, master cylinder must be
replaced. No abrasives, of any kind, are to be used on cylinder bore.
Reassembly
1. Lubricate new reservoir grommets with silicone brake lube and press into master cylinder. Make sure
grommets are properly seated. Lay reservoir on flat, hard surface. On Astro and Safari models, place
block of wood under front reservoir to bring up to level of rear reservoir.
2. Rock master cylinder body onto reservoir until completely seated. Lubricate new piston seals and install
on secondary piston, with lip of seals towards ends of piston. Install spring retainer.
3. Install secondary piston spring and secondary piston assembly in master cylinder. Lubricate primary
piston seals with clean brake fluid.
4. Install primary piston in master cylinder. Press in piston and install snap ring. Fit diaphragm in reservoir
cover and install cover.
Disassembly
Remove rubber boots from ends of cylinder. Remove piston return spring, cylinder cups, and pistons from
cylinder. Remove bleeder screw and inspect bore for damage.
Reassembly
If bore of cylinder is pitted and/or scratched, hone or replace as needed. Soak rubber cylinder cups in brake
fluid or assembly lube and reverse disassembly procedures.
ROTOR SERVICING
Lateral Runout
Adjust wheel bearings until all end play is eliminated. Attach dial indicator with contact tip of indicator about
1" from rotor edge. Set indicator to zero and turn rotor through one complete revolution, noting indicator
reading.
Parallelism
Check thickness of rotor at 4 or more points around circumference of rotor. Make all measurements at same
distance from edge of rotor. If thickness variation is excessive, refinish or replace rotor as necessary.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TIGHTENING SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N m)
Master Cylinder Mounting Nuts
20 (27)
Front Caliper
Brake Hose-to-Caliper 30 (41)
Caliper Mounting Bolts 35 (47)
Hydraulic Line-to-Brake Hose 13 (17)
Support Plate-to-Knuckle Bolts 12 (16)
Rear Wheel Cylinder
Brake Hose Attaching Nut 13 (17)
Rear Brake Anchor Pin 140 (190)
Bleeder Valves 5 (7)
Brake Line Nut 13 (18)
Wheel Cylinder Attaching Bolts 4 (6)
Brake Line Clips 13 (18)
Wheel Lug Nuts
Astro & Safari 90 (122)
"S" Series
2WD 90 (122)
4WD 100 (136)
CAUTION: When certain materials rub together, a transfer of electrons from one
material to another may occur under special conditions. This results in an
electrostatic charge (static electricity) being built up in one of the
materials. When any conducting material comes in contact with the
charged material, electrostatic discharge occurs, transferring electrons to
the third material. Since electronic components used in control systems
are designed to carry very low voltages, as little as a 30-volt charge
created by static electricity can cause a total or degrading failure in ECM
or other electronic components containing integrated circuits. Before
servicing ECM, ground yourself and ground the work area to discharge
stored electricity.
CAUTION: DO NOT remove part from packaging until ready to install. Ground any
staticproof package PRIOR to opening. DO NOT touch electrical terminals
of components unless properly grounded. DO NOT lay electrical
components on car seat, carpeting or dashboard. Use electrostatic
protection mat and ground strap whenever possible. See Fig. 1 .
Fig. 1: Servicing ECM Using 3M Anti-Static Mat
NOTE: The following steps are courtesy of General Motors Technical Service Bulletin
No. T-91-95, June, 1991 & Technical Service Bulletin No. 91-6E-18, June, 1991
Problem
When installing a service replacement ECM, the use of incorrect MEM-CAL installation procedures may cause
the ECM to fail before it can be installed in the vehicle. This condition may appear as if the ECM were
defective when it was shipped to the dealership when, in fact, it was damaged while being installed. In addition,
this condition may also occur when installing as "updated" service into the vehicle's original equipment ECM.
Excessive vertical force may be generated in two ways:
Repair
To repair this condition use the following procedure. This procedure supersedes any instructions regarding
MEM-CAL installation dated prior to September, 1990.
1. Inspect the MEM-CAL to determine if a cork spacer is glued to the top side of the MEM-CAL assemly. If
so, remove it prior to installation.
2. Align small notches with matching notches in the ECM MEM-CAL socket.
3. VERY GENTLY press down on the ends of the MEM-CAL until the locking levers are rotated toward
the sides of the MEM-CAL.
NOTE: To avoid ECM damage, do not press on the ends of the MEM-CAL unit until
the levers snap into place. DO NOT use any vertical force beyond the
minimum required to engage the MEM-CAL into its socket.
4. While continuing light pressure on the ends of the MEM-CAL, use your index fingers to press the locking
levers inward until they are snapped into place. Listen for click.
5. Install MEM-CAL cover and install ECM in vehicle.
NOTE: If diagnostic procedures require replacement of ECM, ensure ECM and PROM
part numbers are correct. Service ECM DOES NOT contain a PROM. Old PROM
must be installed in service ECM. Part number verification is critical for proper
vehicle operation.
1. Remove ECM from vehicle as previously outlined. Position ECM so that bottom cover is facing upward.
Remove access cover. Note location of reference notch in PROM and ECM for reassembly reference.
2. Engage end of PROM carrier with hook end of rocker-type PROM remover. Press on vertical bar end of
tool and rock engaged end of PROM carrier up as far as possible.
3. Engage opposite end of PROM carrier in the same manner and rock this end up as far as possible. Repeat
process until PROM carrier and PROM are free of PROM socket. PROM carrier and PROM should lift
off of PROM socket easily.
NOTE: PROM carrier should ONLY be removed with special PROM removal tool. Use of
any other method may damage PROM or PROM socket.
Installation
1. Check that new PROM has same service number as the one being replaced. Place new PROM in PROM
carrier in ECM. Position squarely over ECM PROM socket. Press on PROM carrier until PROM is firmly
seated in ECM.
NOTE: Make sure that reference notch in both ECM and PROM are properly
aligned. If PROM is installed backward and key is turned on, PROM will be
destroyed.
2. Reinstall PROM access cover on ECM. Reinstall ECM in vehicle as previously described. Start engine
and ground diagnostic test lead. Watch for trouble Code 51.
3. If Code 51 is stored, PROM is not fully seated in ECM, is installed backwards, has bent pins or is
defective. If pins are bent and crack when straightened, PROM must be replaced. If PROM is installed
backwards or is defective, it must be replaced.
Some ECM models use a CALPAK as well as a PROM. See Fig. 2 . The CALPAK must also be removed from
replaced ECM and installed in new ECM. Removal and replacement procedures for CALPAK are same as for
PROM. If units are installed improperly, grounding diagnostic test lead will set a Code 52.
Removal
Remove ECM from vehicle as previously outlined. Remove access cover. Using two fingers, push both
retaining clips away from MEM-CAL unit and lift it out of socket by grasping both ends of MEM-CAL unit.
See Fig. 3 . DO NOT remove cover from MEM-CAL unit.
Fig. 3: Replacing MEM-CAL in Electronic Control Module of Vehicles Equipped With 2.5L Engine Only
NOTE: MEM-CAL unit can ONLY be removed in this manner. Use of any other method
may damage MEM-CAL or MEM-CAL socket.
Installation
1. Check that new MEM-CAL has same service number as the one being replaced. Place new MEM-CAL in
ECM. Press on ends of MEM-CAL until retaining clips snap into ends of MEM-CAL unit.
2. DO NOT press on middle of MEM-CAL unit, only the ends. Make sure that small notches in MEM-CAL
socket and MEM-CAL are properly aligned. See Fig. 3 .
3. Reinstall access cover on ECM and reinstall ECM in vehicle. Start engine and ground diagnostic test
lead.Watch for trouble Code 51.
4. If Code 51 is stored, MEM-CAL is not fully seated in ECM, is installed backward, has bent pins or is
defective. If pins are bent and crack when straightened, MEM-CAL must be replaced. If MEM-CAL is
installed backward or is defective, it must be replaced.
NOTE: Oxygen sensor uses a permanently attached pigtail and connector. DO NOT
remove pigtail or connector from sensor, as sensor operation could be
impaired. Also, keep in-line connector and louvered end of sensor free of
grease, dirt, or other contaminants. Avoid dropping or rough handling of
sensor.
Removal
Disconnect negative battery cable at battery. Raise vehicle, if required. Disconnect electrical connector from
oxygen sensor. Carefully remove O2 sensor from exhaust pipe.
NOTE: Oxygen sensor may be difficult to remove when engine temperature is below
120°F (49°C). Excessive removal force may damage threads in exhaust manifold
or pipe.
Installation
1. Whenever an O2 sensor is removed, its threads must be coated with anti-seize compound (3613695)
before it is installed. New sensors will already have this compound applied to threads.
2. Install O2 sensor in exhaust pipe and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 N.m). Reconnect electrical connector to
sensor. Lower vehicle from hoist. Reconnect negative battery cable to battery.
Remove air cleaner assembly. Discard gasket. Disconnect electrical connector from TPS. Remove 2 TPS
attaching screws, lock washers, and retainers. Remove TPS. Discard gasket.
Installation
With throttle valve in normal closed position, install TPS on throttle shaft. Rotate TPS counterclockwise to
align mounting holes. Apply thread locking compound to TPS screws. Install TPS screws, lock washers and
retainers. Tighten screws to 18 INCH lbs. (20 N.m). Connect electrical lead. Replace gasket and install air
cleaner. Perform OUTPUT CHECK.
Output Check
Connect digital voltmeter between center "B" terminal and outside terminal "A" of TPS connector. Read TPS
voltage with ignition on, engine off. If voltage is more than 1.25 volts, check minimum idle speed before
replacing TPS.
NOTE: TPS on 2.8L and 7.4L engines has horizontal electrical connector. On all other
engines, TPS has vertical electrical connector.
Remove air cleaner, adapter, and gaskets. Discard gaskets. Disconnect electrical connector from TPS. Remove
2 TPS attaching screws, lock washers, and retainers (if equipped). Remove TPS.
Installation
With throttle valve in normal closed position, install TPS on throttle body. Ensure TPS lever is aligned with
TPS drive lever on throttle body. Install screws, lock washers, and retainers. Connect electrical lead. Replace
gasket and install air cleaner. On 2.8L engine, perform OUTPUT CHECK.
NOTE: Throttle position sensor on all models except 2.8L engine is nonadjustable.
Only output voltage can be monitored on these engines.
Connect digital voltmeter between center "B" terminal and outside terminal "A" of TPS connector. Read TPS
voltage with ignition on, engine off. If voltage is not .42-.54 volts, rotate TPS until specification is obtained. If
specification cannot be obtained, replace TPS.
Connect digital voltmeter between center "B" terminal and outside terminal "A" of TPS connector. Read TPS
voltage with ignition on, engine off. If voltage is more than 1.0 volt, check minimum idle speed before
replacing TPS.
To remove sensors, switches, and solenoids, turn ignition off, remove electrical and/or vacuum connectors and
remove or detach component. To install, reverse removal procedure.
CCC TESTS W/O CODES
DESCRIPTION
NOTE: Most Computer Command Control (CCC) problems are the result of mechanical
breakdowns, poor electrical connections, or damaged vacuum hoses. Before
considering the CCC system as a possible cause of problems, check ignition
high tension wires, fuel supply, electrical connections, and vacuum hoses.
Failure to do so may result in lost diagnostic time.
The Computer Command Control (CCC) system controls engine operation and lowers exhaust emissions while
maintaining good fuel economy and driveability. The CCC system is designed to maintain a 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio
under all engine operating conditions. When the ideal air/fuel ratio is maintained, the catalytic converter can
control oxides of nitrogen (NOx), hydrocarbon (HC), and carbon monoxide (CO) emissions.
The CCC system consists of the following sub-systems: Fuel Control, Data Sensors, Electronic Control Module
(ECM), Electronic Spark Timing, Electronic Spark Control, AIR Management, Exhaust Gas Recirculation,
Evaporative Emission Control, Torque Converter Clutch (TCC), Diagnostic System.
Verify customer complaint and locate the correct symptom below. Check items indicated under that symptom.
These procedures will normally lead to a component system on the vehicle, such as EGR, EST, TCC, etc. These
are covered in the Component charts.
The flow charts are located in the TBI CEC TESTING article in this section. If the first flow chart leads you to
another flow chart, all the test charts are in the TBI CEC TESTING article. If a flow chart leads you to trouble
shooting procedures, that information will be in this article.
Check items indicated under that symptom. These procedures will normally lead to a component system on the
vehicle, such as EGR, EST, TCC, etc. These sytems are covered in the component charts.
Several of the following symptom procedures call for a careful visual check. Visual check should be performed
CAREFULLY and THOROUGHLY as it can correct a problem without further checks or diagnosis. This check
should include:
z Vacuum hoses for splits, kinks and proper connections, as shown on Emission Control Information label.
z Air leaks at throttle body mounting and intake manifold.
z Ignition wires for cracking, hardness, proper routing, and carbon tracking.
z Wiring for proper connections, pinches, and cuts.
NOTE: If engine cranks but will not run, see CHART A3 - ENGINE CRANKS BUT WON'T
RUN chart in the TBI TESTS W/ CODES article in this section.
INTERMITTENT PROBLEMS
SYMPTOM DEFINITION
Intermittent problem(s) may or may not turn on "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light. Code(s) may or may not be
stored.
z Check for poor mating of one connector to another. Terminals may not be fully seated. Check for
improperly formed or damaged terminals. Check wire to terminal connections.
z If visual check doesn't find cause of problem, drive vehicle with voltmeter connected to suspected circuit
and ground. If voltage reading changes as problem occurs, problem may be in that circuit.
z Check for loss of trouble code memory by disconnecting TPS. Idle engine until "SERVICE ENGINE
SOON" light comes on. Code 22 should be stored when ignition is turned off. If not, ECM is faulty.
z Check for electrical system interference caused by a defective relay or an ECM driven solenoid or switch.
They can cause a sharp electrical surge. Problem will usually occur when faulty component is operated.
z Check for improper installation of electrical accessories such as auxiliary lights, 2-way radios, etc.
z Make sure EST wires are kept away from spark plug wires, distributor wires, distributor housing, ignition
coil and alternator. Ensure wire from 453 to distributor has a good ground.
z Check ignition secondary wiring for short to ground.
z Check circuits 419 and 451 for intermittent shorted to ground.
z Check ECM power grounds.
z Check for incorrect or defective CALPAK or PROM.
HARD START
SYMPTOM DEFINITION
Engine cranks but doesn't start for a long time. Engine eventually runs, or engine starts but immediately dies.
Momentary lack of response as accelerator is depressed. May occur at any vehicle speed. Usually most severe
when first trying to make vehicle move. May cause vehicle to stall if severe enough.
As determined by actual road test, fuel economy is significantly lower than expected. Also, fuel economy is
much lower than had been previously shown by an earlier road test.
z Check thermostat for proper heat range or improper operation (always open).
z Check fuel pressure. See CHART A6 - FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE in the TBI TESTS/CODES article
in this section.
z Check ignition timing.
z Check TCC for proper operation. See TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH chart in the TBI
TESTS/CODES article in this section.
z Check non-CCC related items such as tire pressure, clogged air cleaner, engine compression, owner's
driving habits, etc.
z Perform SYSTEM CHECK.
DIESELING/RUN-ON
SYMPTOM DEFINITION
Engine continues to run after ignition is turned off, but runs very rough. If engine runs smoothly, check ignition
switch and adjustment.
z Check for leaking injectors: Apply 12 volts to fuel pump test terminal to turn fuel pump on and to
pressurize system. See appropriate CHART A5 - FUEL PUMP RELAY CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS chart in
the TBI TESTS/CODES article in this section.
z Visually check injectors and TBI unit for leaks.
BACKFIRE
SYMPTOM DEFINITION
Fuel ignites in intake manifold, or exhaust manifold, making a loud popping noise.
z Check EGR operation for being open at all times. See EGR SYSTEM CHECK chart in the TBI
TESTS/CODES article in this section.
z Check output voltage of ignition coil.
z Check for crossfire between spark plugs (distributor cap, plug wires, and proper routing of plug wires).
z Check for intermittent condition in primary ignition system.
z Check ignition timing.
z Check for faulty spark plugs, plug wires and/or plug boots.
z Check for proper valve timing.
z Check engine compression (leaking or sticking valves).
Engine runs unevenly at idle. If severe enough, vehicle may shake. Engine may display varied idle RPM
("hunting"). Either condition could be severe enough to cause stalling. Engine idles at incorrect speed.
z Vacuum leaks: Block idle air passage using Plug (J-3047). If closed throttle engine speed is above 650
RPM, locate and correct vacuum leak (disconnected thermostatic vacuum hose or cruise control hose).
z Park/Neutral Switch operation. See PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH DIAGNOSIS chart in the TBI
TESTS/CODES article in this section.
z Sticking throttle shaft or binding linkage causing high TPS voltage (open throttle indication). ECM
cannot control idle if this condition exists. Monitor TPS voltage (1.2 volts with throttle closed).
z Roughness, stoppage, and/or hard starting as a result of EGR flow being allowed during idle. See EGR
SYSTEM CHECK chart in the TBI TESTS/CODES article in this section.
z Battery cables and ground straps should be clean and secure. Erratic voltage supply will cause IAC valve
to change position, causing poor idle quality.
z If system voltage is below 9 volts or greater than 17.8 volts, IAC valve will not move.
z On 2.5L engines, ECM should compensate for power steering loads. Loss of this signal would be more
noticeable under parking conditions where power steering loads are greatest. See POWER STEERING
PRESSURE SWITCH TEST chart in the TBI TESTS/CODES article in this section.
z MAP sensor. With ignition on and engine off, compare voltage reading of MAP sensor with that of
known good vehicle. Voltage readings should be within 400 millivolts of each other.
OR
Start and idle engine. Disconnect sensor connector. If idle improves, substitute a known good MAP sensor, and
repeat test while checking the following:
z Check A/C compressor, A/C relay, or A/C signal. See A/C CLUTCH CONTROL DIAGNOSIS chart or
A/C "ON" SIGNAL DIAGNOSIS chart in the TBI TESTS/CODES article in this section.
z A/C refrigerant pressure too high. Check for overcharge or faulty cycling switch.
z Check PCV valve for proper operation.
z Perform compression check.
z Inspect oxygen sensor for silicon contamination from fuel, or use of improper RTV sealant (sensor will
have White, powdery coating that will result in high, but false, signal voltage). In return, the ECM will
reduce amount of fuel delivered, causing a severe driveability problem.
z Check AIR management system for intermittent induction of air to exhaust ports while system is in
"Closed Loop".
z Monitoring system will help identify the cause of the problem. If the system is running lean, see CODE
44 - LEAN EXHAUST INDICATION flow chart. If the system is running rich, See the CODE 45 - RICH
EXHAUST INDICATION flow chart. These tests are in the TBI TESTS/CODES article in this section.
Excessive odors (high concentrations of CO and HC) that are more noticeable when engine is under load and at
normal operating temperatures.
z High fuel pressure. See CHART A6 - FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE TEST chart in the TBI
TESTS/CODES article in this section.
z Ignition timing.
z Fuel loaded canister.
z PCV valve for blockage and correct operation.
z Condition of spark plugs, plug wires, and distributor cap.
z Lead contamination of catalytic converter (suspect if fuel filler neck restrictor has been removed).
Engine power variation under steady throttle or cruise condition. Feels like vehicle speeds up and slows down
without changing accelerator pedal position.
Using a "SCAN" tool, ensure vehicle speed matches VSS reading. If tool is not available, or if readings do not
agree, check:
z Intermittent EGR operation during idle condition. See EGR SYSTEM CHECK chart in the TBI
TESTS/CODES article in this section.
z Ignition timing.
z In-line fuel filter for obstruction.
z Fuel pressure. See CHART A6 - FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE TEST chart in the TBI TESTS/CODES
article in this section.
z Alternator output. Repair if less than 9 volts or more than 16 volts.
z TCC operation. See TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH chart in the TBI TESTS/CODES article in this
section.
z Inspect oxygen sensor for silicon contamination from fuel, or use of improper RTV sealant (sensor will
have White, powdery coating that will result in high, but false, signal voltage). In return, the ECM will
reduce amount of fuel delivered, causing a severe driveability problem.
z Remove spark plugs and check for cracks, wear, improper gap, burned electrodes, or heavy deposits.
Check condition of distributor cap, rotor, and plug wires.
Engine delivers less than expected power. Little or no increase in speed when accelerator pedal is depressed part
way.
Compare vehicle to another vehicle of similar design. Ensure vehicle has actual problem. Remove air cleaner
and replace filter if dirty or plugged. Check the following if problem still exists:
z Ignition timing.
z Restricted fuel filter, contaminated fuel, or improper fuel pressure. See CHART A6 - FUEL SYSTEM
PRESSURE TEST chart in the TBI TESTS/CODES article in this section.
z ECM grounds.
z EGR operation to ensure EGR valve is not open (or part open) all the time. See EGR SYSTEM CHECK
chart in the TBI TESTS/CODES article in this section.
z Alternator output. Repair if less than 9 volts or more than 16 volts.
z Valve timing. Perform compression test.
z Proper or worn camshaft.
z Exhaust system for restriction:
z With engine at normal operating temperature, connect vacuum gauge to convenient intake manifold
vacuum port.
z Disconnect EGR solenoid electrical connector, or connect EGR valve directly to vacuum source (by-
passing switches and/or solenoids).
z Run engine at 1000 RPM and record vacuum reading.
z Slowly increase speed to 1500 RPM and note vacuum reading at steady 2500 RPM.
z If vacuum at 2500 RPM decreases more than 3 in. Hg from reading at 1000 RPM, inspect exhaust system
for restrictions.
z Disconnect exhaust pipe from engine and repeat previous 2 steps. If vacuum still drops more than 3 in.
Hg with exhaust disconnected, check valve timing.
DETONATION/SPARK KNOCK
SYMPTOM DEFINITION
A mild to severe ping, usually worse under acceleration. Engine makes sharp metallic knocks that change with
throttle opening.
z Low coolant.
z Loose water pump belt.
z Restricted airflow to radiator, or restricted water flow through radiator.
z Fuel quality (proper octane rating).
z Correct PROM (MEM-CAL).
z Closed thermostatic air cleaner device.
z Ignition timing (ESC check).
z Low fuel system pressure. See the CHART A6 - FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE TEST in the TBI
TESTS/CODES article in this section.
z EGR system not opening. See EGR SYSTEM CHECK chart.
z Proper transmission shift points and TCC operation. See TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH chart in the
TBI TESTS/CODES article in this section.
z Incorrect engine parts (camshaft, cylinder heads, pistons, etc.).
z Remove carbon with Top Engine Cleaner (12345089).
z On vehicles over 8500 GVW with 5.7L or 7.4L engine and dual catalytic converter system, check for
exhaust restriction in rear converter area.
Steady pulsation or jerking that follows engine speed, usually more pronounced as engine load increases. The
exhaust has a steady spitting sound at idle or low speed.
z Disconnecting IAC motor connector. Start engine. Remove one spark plug at a time.
z If there is an RPM drop on all cylinders, proceed to ROUGH, UNSTABLE, OR INCORRECT IDLE,
STALLING trouble shooting.
z If there is no RPM drop on one or more cylinders, or excessive variation in drop, check for spark on
suspected cylinders using ST-125 Spark Tester (J-26792).
z If there is no spark, remove spark plugs in suspected cylinders and check for cracks, wear, improper gap,
burned electrodes, and heavy deposits.
z Check spark plug wires by connecting an ohmmeter to each end of wire. If ohmmeter reading is greater
than 30,000 ohms, replace wire(s).
z Check ignition coil and secondary voltage using ST-125 Spark Tester (J-26792).
z Check for restricted fuel filter, contaminated fuel, or low fuel pressure. See CHART A-6, FUEL
SYSTEM PRESSURE TEST chart in the TBI TESTS/CODES article in this section.
z Check valve timing. Perform compression test.
z Check distributor cap and rotor for moisture, dust, cracks, or burns.
z Remove rocker covers. Check for bent push rods, worn rocker arms, broken valve springs, or worn
camshaft lobes.
COMPUTERIZED ENGINE CONTROLS
Computer Command Control (CCC) - Symptom, Code, & Component Diagnosis & Testing
MODEL IDENTIFICATION
BODY CODE IDENTIFICATION CHART
GM Body Code/Series Applicable Models
"C/K" Series (New Aero-Style) (1)
Chevrolet Pickup
GMC Pickup
"M" Series Mini-Vans
Chevrolet Astro
GMC Safari
"G" Series Vans
Chevrolet Van
GMC Van
"P" Series Vans
Chevrolet Parcel Van
GMC Parcel Van
"R/V" Series (Older Style) (2)
Chevrolet Blazer, Pickup, Suburban
GMC Jimmy, Pickup, Suburban
"S/T" Series (3)
Chevrolet S/T Blazer, S10 Pickup
GMC S/T Jimmy, S15 Pickup
(1) "C" Series is the 2WD version and "K" Series is the 4WD version.
(2) "R" Series is the 2WD version and "V" Series is the 4WD version. The "R/V" series was formerly
called the C/K" series prior to the release of the redesigned downsized and more aerodynamic) new
"C/K" series.
(3) "S" Series is the 2WD version and "T" Series is the 4WD version.
NOTE: Most computerized engine control problems are the result of mechanical
breakdowns, poor electrical connections or damaged vacuum hoes. Before
considering the computer system as a possible cause of problems ignition high
tension wires, fuel supply, electrical connections and vacuum hoses should be
checked. Failure to do so may result in lost diagnostic time.
Diagnosis of the CCC system should be performed in the following order:
1. Make sure that all engine systems not related to the CCC system are operating properly. Do not proceed
with testing unless all other problems have been repaired.
2. Perform appropriate DIAGNOSTIC CIRCUIT CHECK for that system. If trouble codes were displayed
(other than Code 12), decide whether codes are "hard" or "intermittent" trouble codes. "Hard" codes will
cause the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light to illuminate continuously while engine is running. See
ECM TROUBLE CODE DEFINITION in this article.
3. If no trouble codes were displayed, proceed to appropriate SYSTEM PERFORMANCE CHECK chart for
carbureted systems or perform FIELD SERVICE MODE CHECK on fuel injected systems.
4. If no trouble is indicated by SYSTEM PERFORMANCE CHECK or FIELD SERVICE MODE check
and/or a driveability problem exists, refer to SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS and/or SCAN TESTER USAGE
TROUBLESHOOTING. The comments there will send you to the proper component charts or tell you
the most likely system/component to check.
5. After any repairs have been made, clear any trouble codes and perform SYSTEM PERFORMANCE
CHECK or FIELD SERVICE MODE check.
1. Turn ignition switch on but do not start engine. "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" lamp should glow. Locate
Assembly Line Data Link (ALDL) connector attached to ECM wiring harness under instrument panel
near steering column (under driver's seat on "G" Series van). Insert jumper wire across terminal "B",
"DIAGNOSTIC TERMINAL" and terminal "A", "GROUND". See Fig. 1.
CAUTION: Inserting spade lug (jumper lead) into terminals of ALDL connector
grounds "DIAGNOSTIC TERMINAL". Do not ground ALDL connector
until after ignition is on (engine not running).
Fig. 1: ALDL Connector Terminal Locations
NOTE: In some of the diagnostic and trouble shooting charts, the Assembly Line
Data Link (ALDL) may also be referred to as the Assembly Line
Communication Link (ALCL). These are referring to the same connector. It
is also the test point for connection of aftermarket "Scan" testers.
2. "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light should flash Code "12". Code "12" consists of "FLASH", pause,
"FLASH", "FLASH" followed by a longer pause. Trouble Code "12" will be repeated 2 times. If any
trouble codes are stored in ECM memory, they will be displayed in the same manner.
3. To exit diagnostic mode, turn ignition off and remove jumper wire from ALDL connector.
Trouble codes are cleared by removing battery voltage from the ECM for at least 30 seconds. To do so, be sure
ignition switch is "OFF" and remove battery positive terminal, or remove ECM fuse from fuse block on all
vehicles except "C/K" Series, which has a fuse link.
The ECM stores component failure information for the CCC system under a related trouble code which can be
recalled for diagnosis and repair. When recalled, these codes will be displayed by flashes of the "SERVICE
ENGINE SOON" light. Trouble codes are displayed starting with the lowest numbered code. Only codes that
represent a definite malfunction will be shown.
Trouble codes are read by counting flashes of the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light, or by reading output on a
diagnostic tester ("SCAN" tester) connected to the ALCL connector. These special tools are faster and more
accurate, but are not mandatory.
If a "SCAN" tester is not available, read the flashes of the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" lamp. For example,
"FLASH", "FLASH", pause, "FLASH", longer pause, identifies "21". The first flashes are the first digit of the
code, second flashes are the second digit.
A "SCAN" tester provides a visual reading of most of the ECM inputs and some of the outputs controlled by the
ECM. With the "SCAN" tester in the code position, the stored code will be displayed in the display window.
By connecting the "SCAN" tester to the ALDL connector and a 12-volt power supply, valuable information can
be received from the CCC system. The technician's knowledge of the system and understanding of the "SCAN"
tester's limitations can provide information that would otherwise be difficult to obtain. However, "SCAN"
testers cannot replace volt/ohmmeters when called for within diagnostic charts.
The "SCAN" tester can display the following information in the display window:
z "ON" when ECM has commanded A/C clutch into operation. This does not mean that A/C clutch is
operating, only that ECM has instructed it to commence operation.
z "YES" when A/C is activated.
z Actual battery voltage reading detected at ECM ignition input.
z "CLOSED LOOP" or "OPEN LOOP", depending upon mode that engine control system is operating
under.
z Diagnostic codes.
z Coolant temperature in degrees Centigrade.
z RPM that ECM is trying to maintain at idle.
z "ON" when ECM has commanded EGR valve to open. This does not mean that EGR valve is open, only
that ECM has instructed EGR valve to open to allow EGR flow.
z Position of EGR valve pintle.
z "YES" when transmission is in fourth gear.
z A number that represents the position that the ECM thinks the idle air control valve is in at that time.
z A number, in milliseconds, that represents the pulse width ("on" time) that the ECM is commanding to
the injectors.
z Amount of spark retard in number of degrees.
z "YES" when knock is detected or "NO" when knock is not detected.
z Manifold air temperature in degrees Centigrade.
z Low voltage when the manifold pressure is low (high vacuum), or high voltage when the pressure is high
(low vacuum).
z Vehicle speed in miles per hour.
z Oxygen sensor reading ranging from 1 to 999 millivolts. If consistently below 350 millivolts, fuel system
is lean; if consistently above 550 millivolts, fuel system is rich.
z Percent of throttle angle.
These are only some of the capabilities of the "SCAN" tester. Consult "SCAN" tester manufacturer's diagnostic
manual for complete explanation of the tester and its limitations.
During any diagnostic procedure, you must decide between "hard" codes and "intermittent" codes. Diagnostic
charts will not help analyze intermittent failures. Proper use of the Diagnostic Circuit Check chart will
determine whether a stored code is "hard" or "intermittent".
An "intermittent" code is one which does not reset itself and is not present while diagnosing vehicle.
Intermittent codes are frequently caused by loose connections. A "hard" code will repeat itself during the circuit
check and will reset itself while diagnosing vehicle.
DIAGNOSTIC MATERIALS
Diagnostic Charts
The Diagnostic Charts are used to find and repair problems which On-Vehicle Diagnostics have found. These
charts include:
z Charts which fix a problem when the On-Vehicle Diagnostics don't work.
z Charts where a stored trouble code leads you to a particular problem.
z Charts which are used because the System Check found a problem.
z "Engine Cranks But Won't Run" charts.
System Check
1. If complaint is "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light related, this check will lead to the most likely problem
area (if a malfunction exists). Enter diagnostic mode by grounding terminal "B" of ALDL connector and
record stored trouble codes.
2. Begin diagnosis with the lowest numbered code shown and go to the numbered trouble code chart. If code
"51" is displayed, see PROM or MEM-CAL removal and installation in this article.
1. This test confirms proper operation of fuel system and verifies "Closed Loop" operation. Clear codes and
perform this test after any repair is completed.
2. When performing this check, always engage parking brake and block drive wheels. On some engines, the
oxygen sensor will cool off after only a short period of time while engine is idling.
3. This will cause engine to go into open loop. To restore closed loop mode, run engine at part throttle for
several minutes, accelerating from idle to part throttle several times.
DIAGNOSTIC TOOLS
The CCC system does not require special tools for diagnosis. A tachometer, dwell meter, test light, ohmmeter,
digital voltmeter with 10 megohms impedance (minimum), vacuum pump, vacuum gauge and 6 jumper wires
6" long (1 wire with female connectors at both ends, 1 wire with male connectors at both ends, 4 wires with
male and female connectors at opposite ends) are the only testers necessary for diagnosis.
A test light, rather than a voltmeter, must be used when indicated by a diagnostic chart.
Some brands of dwell meter are not compatible with General Motors CCC systems. If engine operation seems
to change as meter is connected, remove dwell meter and use another type.
NOTE: Special "SCAN" testers can be used to read trouble codes and check voltages
in the system. These testers can save a great deal of time, but are not required.
Refer to tester manual for operating procedures. Also see "SCAN" charts in this
section.
DIAGNOSTIC CHARTS
SYSTEM CHECK - FLOW CHART
Fig. 2: System Check Flow Chart
Fig. 3: System Check Flow Chart
Circuit Description
There should always be a steady "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light when ignition is turned on with engine off.
Battery voltage is supplied directly to illuminate the bulb. The ECM will control the light and turn it on by
providing a ground path through circuit No. 419 to the ECM.
Test Description
1. If fuse in holder is blown, see wiring diagram for Code 54 for complete electrical circuit.
2. Using a test light connected to 12 volts, probe each system ground circuit to ensure good ground is
present. See ECM voltage pin charts for ECM pin locations of ground circuits.
Diagnostic Aids
There should always be a steady "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light when ignition is turned on with engine off.
Battery voltage supplied directly to illuminate the bulb. The ECM will control the light and turn it on by
providing a ground path through circuit No. 419 to the ECM.
With diagnostic terminal grounded, light should flash a Code 12, followed by any trouble code(s) stored in
memory.
A steady light indicates a short to ground in light control circuit No. 419, or an open in diagnostic circuit No.
451.
Test Description
1. If there is a problem with ECM that causes a "SCAN" tester to not read Serial Data, then ECM should
flash Code 12. If Code 12 does flash, ensure "SCAN" tester is working properly by testing on another
vehicle. If "SCAN" tester is functioning properly and circuit No. 461 is okay, the PROM, MEM-CAL, or
ECM may be at fault for "NO ALDL" symptom.
2. If light goes off when ECM connector is disconnected, then circuit No. 419 is not shorted to ground.
3. This step checks for an open diagnostic circuit No. 451.
Fig. 5: Chart A2, No ALDL Data or Won't Flash Code 12, "SES" Light On Steady
Circuit Description
This chart assumes that battery condition and engine cranking speed are okay, and there is enough fuel in tank.
This chart should be used only on engines equipped with Model 700 throttle body unit.
Test Description
1. "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light on is basic check for ignition and battery supply to ECM. No "ALDL"
may be due to an ECM problem. CHART A2 will diagnose the ECM. If TPS is over 2.5 volts, engine
may be in "clear flood" mode, that will cause starting problems. If coolant sensor is below -22°F (-30°C),
ECM will provide fuel for extremely cold temperatures that will completely flood engine.
2. Check voltage at spark plugs with ST-125 (J-26792). No spark indicates basic ignition problem.
3. While cranking engine, there should be no fuel spray with injector disconnected. Replace injector if it
sprays or drips excessively.
4. Using Injector Test Light (J-34730, BT-8329A), test injector circuit. A blinking light indicates ECM is
controlling injector.
5. This determines if fuel pressure is present at injector and that injector is operating properly.
Diagnostic Aids
If no trouble is found in ECM, fuel pump, and/or ignition system, check for fouled spark plugs, EGR valve
stuck in open position, and/or low fuel pressure. See CHART A6.
Fig. 6: Chart A3 Cranks, But Will Not Run (2.5L)
This chart assumes that battery condition and engine cranking speed are okay, and there is enough fuel in tank.
This chart should be used only on engines equipped with Model 220 throttle body unit.
Test Description
1. "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light on is basic check for ignition and battery supply to ECM. No "ALDL"
may be due to an ECM problem. CHART A2 will diagnose the ECM. If TPS is over 2.5 volts, engine
may be in "clear flood" mode, that will cause starting problems. If coolant sensor is below -22°F (-30°C),
ECM will provide fuel for extremely cold temperatures that will completely flood engine.
2. Check voltage at spark plugs with ST-125 (J-26792). No spark indicates basic ignition problem.
3. While cranking engine, there should be no fuel spray with injector disconnected. Replace injector if it
sprays fuel or drips excessively.
Fig. 7: Chart A3 Cranks, But Will Not Run (All Except 2.5L)
Circuit Description
Use this chart ONLY if CHART A3 indicated an injector circuit problem.
Test Description
1. These tests will determine if the ignition module is generating a reference pulse, if wiring is at fault or if
ECM is at fault. Touch and connect a 12-volt test light to circuit No. 430, a reference pulse should be
generated. If injector test light blinks, ECM and wiring are okay.
2. This tests for 12 volts to injector. It will also determine if there is a short to voltage on ECM side of
circuit.
3. This tests for continuity to ECM.
Fig. 8: Chart A4, Injector Circuit Diagnosis (2.5L)
CHART A4 - INJECTOR CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS (ALL EXCEPT 2.5L)
Circuit Description
Use this chart ONLY if CHART A3 indicated an injector circuit problem. If both injector circuits fail to blink
when tested, diagnose one injector circuit at a time.
Test Description
1. These tests will determine if the ignition module is generating a reference pulse, if wiring is at fault or if
ECM is at fault. Touch and connect a 12-volt test light to circuit No. 430, a reference pulse should be
generated. If injector test light blinks, ECM and wiring are okay.
2. This tests for 12 volts to injector. It will also determine if there is a short to voltage on ECM side of
circuit.
3. This tests for continuity to ECM.
Fig. 9: Chart A4, Injector Circuit Diagnosis (All Other Models)
Circuit Description
When ignition is turned on, ECM will activate the in-tank fuel pump. The pump will remain on as long as
engine is cranking or running, and ECM is receiving distributor reference pulses. If there are no reference
pulses, ECM will de-activate the fuel pump about 2 seconds after ignition is turned on, or when engine stops.
The pump will deliver fuel to the TBI unit where the pressure regulator maintains system pressure at about 9-13
psi (.63-.91 kg/cm2 ). Excess fuel is returned to fuel tank.
Test Description
1. Fuel pump is activated if circuit No. 120 wiring is okay. If pump runs, problem may be located in fuel
pump relay circuit. The following steps will locate this problem.
2. Next 2 steps check for power and ground circuits to fuel pump relay.
3. This determines if ECM can control the fuel pump relay.
4. Oil pressure switch serves as back-up for fuel pump relay to help prevent a "NO START CONDITION".
If fuel pump relay was found to be inoperative, oil pressure switch circuit should also be tested to
determine why it did not operate fuel pump.
Fig. 10: Chart A5, Fuel Pump Relay Ckt Diagnosis ("M" & "S/T" Series)
Circuit Description
When ignition is turned on, ECM will activate the in-tank fuel pump. The pump will remain on as long as
engine is cranking or running, and ECM is receiving distributor reference pulses. If there are no reference
pulses, ECM will de-activate the fuel pump about 2 seconds after ignition is turned on, or when engine stops.
The pump will deliver fuel to the TBI unit where the pressure regulator maintains system pressure at about 9-13
psi (.63-.91 kg/cm2 ). Excess fuel is returned to fuel tank.
A fuel module is used on all 7.4L and some 5.7L engines to correct hot start (vapor lock) during high ambient
temperature conditions. It is designed to override the ECM 2-second pump operation and run fuel pump for 20
seconds after initial ignition on condition.
Test Description
1. Fuel pump is activated if circuit No. 120 wiring is okay. If pump runs, problem may be located in fuel
pump relay circuit. The following steps will locate this problem.
2. Next 2 steps check for power and ground circuits to fuel pump relay.
3. This determines if ECM can control the fuel pump relay.
4. Oil pressure switch serves as back-up for fuel pump relay to help prevent a "NO START CONDITION".
If fuel pump relay was found to be inoperative, oil pressure switch circuit should also be tested to
determine why it did not operate fuel pump.
Diagnostic Aids
An inoperative fuel module may be cause of "HOT STALL/NO START" condition. Check for power and
ground circuit to fuel module and a complete circuit to pump from terminal "A". If okay, and pump does not run
for specified 20 seconds at initial ignition on, replace fuel module.
Fig. 11: Chart A5, Fuel Pump Relay ("C/K", "G" & "P" Series) Schematic
Fig. 12: Chart A5, Fuel Pump Relay ("C/K", "G" & "P" Series) Flow Chart
Fig. 13: From Chart A-3 (1 Of 2)
On a 7.4L engine, or a "G" Series Van with a 5.7L engine and all other 5.7L engines over 8,500 GVW, a fuel
module will override the ECM two second timer and the fuel pump will run for twenty seconds and the the shut
off if the vehicle is not started. This circuit corrects a hot restart (vapor lock) during a high ambient temperature
condition.
On a 7.4L engine, or a "G" Series Van with a 5.7L engine and all other 5.7L engines over 8,500 GVW, a fuel
module will override the ECM two second timer and the fuel pump will run for twenty seconds and the the shut
off if the vehicle is not started. This circuit corrects a hot restart (vapor lock) during a high ambient temperature
condition.
Circuit Description
When fuel pump is running, fuel is delivered to injector(s) and then to pressure regulator where system pressure
is maintained at about 9-13 psi (.63-.91 kg/cm2 ). Excess fuel is returned to fuel tank.
Test Description
1. Pressure is present, but is less than 9 psi (.63 kg/cm2 ), fall into 2 categories:
Amount of fuel delivered to injector is adequate, but pressure is too low. System will run lean and
may set Code 44. Also, hard starting cold and poor overall performance may result.
Normally, a vehicle with fuel pressure of less than 9 psi (.63 kg/cm2 ) at idle will not be driveable.
However, if the pressure drop occurs only while driving, engine will normally surge, then stop as
pressure begins to drop rapidly.
2. Restricting fuel return line allows fuel pump to develop maximum pressure (dead head pressure). When
battery voltage is applied to pump test terminal, pressure should be 13-18 psi (.91-1.27 kg/cm2 ).
3. This determines if high fuel pressure is due to restricted fuel return line or a faulty pressure regulator on
throttle body unit.
Diagnostic Aids
If vehicle is equipped with fuel module, module must first be disconnected before performing fuel system
pressure test. Fuel system is under pressure. Ensure pressure is relieved before testing or making repairs
requiring disassembly of fuel lines or fittings.
Circuit Description
ECM supplies voltage of about .45 volt between terminals "D7" and "D6". If measured with digital voltmeter
with 10 megohms digital voltmeter, this may read as low as .32 volts. The oxygen sensor varies voltage within
range of about one volt if exhaust gases are rich, down to about .10 volt if exhaust gases are lean.
When sensor is below 600°F (315°C), no voltage signal is produced. An open sensor circuit or cold sensor
causes "Open Loop" operation.
Test Description
z Oxygen sensor voltage signal steady between .35 and .55 volt.
z All of these conditions must be sustained for about one minute. If conditions for Code 13 exist,
system will not go into "Closed Loop" mode of operation.
2. This determines if sensor is at fault, or if wiring or ECM is cause of Code 13.
3. Use only a high impedance digital volt/ohmmeter. Test checks continuity of circuit No. 412 and circuit
No. 413. If circuit No. 413 is open, ECM voltage on circuit No. 412 will be over .6 volt (600 millivolts).
Diagnostic Aids
Normal "SCAN" voltage varies between 100-999 millivolts (.10-1.0 volt) while in "Closed Loop". Code 13 sets
in one minute if voltage remains between .35-.55 volt, but system will go "Open Loop" in about 15 seconds. See
INTERMITTENT TROUBLE CODES in the CCC TESTS W/O CODES article in this section.
Fig. 20: Code 13, Oxygen Sensor Circuit Flow Chart & Schematic
Fig. 21: Code 13, Oxygen Sensor
Circuit Description
The Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) uses a thermistor to control signal voltage to ECM. ECM applies
voltage on circuit No. 410 to the sensor. When engine is cold, sensor resistance is high (ECM sees high signal
voltage).
As engine warms, sensor resistance becomes less, and voltage drops. At normal engine operating temperature,
voltage should measure about 1.5-2.0 volts.
Test Description
Diagnostic Aids
Check harness routing for potential short to ground in circuit No. 410.
"SCAN" tester displays engine temperature in degrees Centigrade. After engine is started, temperature should
rise steadily to about 90°C, then stabilize when thermostat opens. See INTERMITTENT TROUBLE CODES in
the CCC TESTS W/O CODES article in this section.
The TEMPERATURE-TO-RESISTANCE VALUE chart may be used to test coolant sensor at various
temperatures to evaluate possibility of "slewed" (mis-scaled) sensor. A "slewed" sensor could result in poor
driveability complaints.
Fig. 22: Code 14, Coolant Temperature Sensor (High Temperature Indicated) ("SCAN" Diagnostics)
Flow Chart & Schematic
Fig. 23: Code 14, Coolant Temperature Sensor (High Temperature Indicated)
Circuit Description
The Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) uses a thermistor to control signal voltage to ECM. ECM applies
voltage on circuit No. 410 to the sensor. When engine is cold, sensor resistance is high (ECM sees high signal
voltage).
As engine warms, sensor resistance becomes less, and voltage drops. At normal engine operating temperature,
voltage should measure about 1.5-2.0 volts.
Test Description
1. Code 15 will set if signal voltage indicates coolant temperature of less than -47°F (-44°C) than three
seconds.
2. Test simulates Code 14. If ECM recognizes low signal voltage, (high temperature) and "SCAN" tester
reads 266°F6 (130°C) or above, ECM and wiring are all okay.
3. Test will determine if circuit No. 410 is open. There should be 5 volts present at sensor connector if
measured with DVOM.
Diagnostic Aids
"SCAN" tester displays engine temperature in degrees Centigrade. After engine is started, temperature should
rise steadily to about 90°C, then stabilize when thermostat opens.
A faulty connection, or open in circuit No. 410 or circuit No. 452 will result in Code 15.
See INTERMITTENT TROUBLE CODES in the CCC TESTS W/O CODES article in this section.
The TEMPERATURE-TO-RESISTANCE VALUE chart may be used to test coolant sensor at various
temperatures to evaluate possibility of "slewed" (mis-scaled) sensor. A "slewed" sensor could result in poor
driveability complaints.
Fig. 24: Code 15, Coolant Sensor Circuit Signal Voltage High Flow Chart & Schematic
Fig. 25: Code 15, Coolant Sensor Circuit Signal Voltage High
Circuit Description
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) provides a voltage signal that changes relative to throttle valve position.
Signal voltage will vary from about .50 volts at idle to about 5 volts at wide open throttle.
The TPS signal is one of the most important inputs used by the ECM for fuel control and for most ECM-
controlled outputs.
Test Description
z TPS signal voltage over 4.5 volts with ignition on, engine off. With throttle closed, TPS should
read less than .70 volt. If not, check adjustment (if applicable).
2. With TPS disconnected, TPS voltage should go low if ECM and wiring are okay.
3. Probing circuit No. 452 with a test light checks 5-volt signal return circuit. Faulty 5-volt return circuit
will cause a Code 21.
Diagnostic Aids
"SCAN" tester reads throttle position in volts. Reading should be about .65-.81 volt for 2.5L, .42-.54 volt for
2.8L, and .52-.68 volts for all other engines with throttle closed and ignition on, or at idle. Voltage should
increase at a steady rate as throttle is moved toward wide open throttle.
Some "SCAN" testers read percentage of throttle angle opening (0% equals closed throttle; 100% equals wide
open throttle).
See INTERMITTENT TROUBLE CODES in the CCC TESTS W/O CODES article in this section.
"SCAN" TPS while depressing accelerator pedal with engine stopped and ignition on. Display should vary from
below 2.5 volts (2500 millivolts) when throttle was closed, to over 4.5 volts (4500 millivolts) when throttle is
held at wide open throttle position.
Fig. 26: Code 21, TPS Signal Voltage High Flow Chart & Schematic
Circuit Description
The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) provides a voltage signal that changes relative to throttle valve position.
Signal voltage will vary from about .50 volts at idle to about 5 volts at wide open throttle.
The TPS signal is one of the most important inputs used by the ECM for fuel control and for most ECM-
controlled outputs.
Test Description
1. Code 22 will set when engine is running and TPS signal voltage is less than about .2 volt for 3 seconds.
2. Simulates Code 21 (high voltage). If ECM recognizes high signal voltage, ECM and wiring are okay.
3. TPS adjustment (2.8L engine only). With throttle closed, TPS voltage reading should be .42-.54 volt.
4. This simulates high signal voltage to check for open in circuit No. 417.
Diagnostic Aids
"SCAN" tester reads throttle position in volts. Reading should be about .65-.81 volt for 3.5L, .42-.54 volt for
2.8L, and .52-.68 volts for all other engines with throttle closed and ignition on, or at idle. Voltage should
increase at a steady rate as throttle is moved toward wide open throttle.
An open or short to ground in circuit No. 416 or circuit No. 417 will result in Code 22. See INTERMITTENT
TROUBLE CODES in the CCC TESTS W/O CODES article in this section.
"SCAN" TPS while depressing accelerator pedal with engine stopped and ignition on. Display should vary from
below 2.5 volts (2500 millivolts) when throttle was closed, to over 4.5 volts (4500 millivolts) when throttle is
held open throttle position.
Fig. 28: Code 22, TPS Signal Voltage Low Flow Chart & Schematic
Fig. 29: Code 22, TPS Signal Voltage Low
Circuit Description
The Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) sensor uses a thermistor to control signal voltage to ECM. The ECM
applies 4-6 volts on circuit No. 472 to sensor. When air is cold, sensor resistance is high; there, ECM will see
high voltage signal. If air is warm, sensor resistance is low; therefore, ECM will see low voltage.
Test Description
Diagnostic Aids
"SCAN" tester reads temperature of incoming air. This reading should be closed to ambient air temperature
when engine is cold, and rise as underhood air temperature increases.
Carefully check harness and connections for possible open circuit No. 472 or circuit No. 452.
See INTERMITTENT TROUBLE CODES in the CCC TESTS W/O CODES article in this section.
The TEMPERATURE-TO-RESISTANCE VALUE chart may be used to test MAT sensor at various
temperatures to evaluate possibility of "slewed" (mis-scaled) sensor. A "slewed" sensor could result in poor
driveability complaints.
Fig. 30: Code 23, MAT Sensor Voltage High (2.5L) Flow Chart & Schematic
Fig. 31: Code 23, MAT Sensor Voltage High (2.5L)
Circuit Description
The ECM supplies and monitors 12-volt signal on circuit No. 437. Circuit No. 437 connects Vehicle Speed
Sensor (VSS), that alternately grounds circuit No. 437 when drive wheels are turning. This pulsing action takes
place about 2000 times per mile, and the ECM calculates vehicle speed based on time between "pulses".
"SCAN" tester reading should closely match speedometer reading with drive wheels turning.
Test Description
Code 24 will set if the following conditions exist for at least 3 seconds:
1. This monitors ECM voltage on circuit No. 437. With wheels turning, pulsing action will result in varying
voltage. Variation will be greater at low wheel speeds to an average of 4-6 volts at about 20 MPH.
2. A voltage of less than one volt at ECM connector indicates that circuit No. 437 is shorted to ground.
Disconnect circuit No. 437 at VSS. If voltage now reads above 10 volts, VSS is faulty. If voltage remains
less than 10 volts, circuit No. 437 wire is grounded. If circuit No. 437 is not grounded, check for faulty
ECM connector or ECM.
3. A steady 8-12 volts at ECM connector indicates circuit No. 437 is open or faulty VSS.
4. This is a normal voltage that indicates a possible intermittent condition.
Diagnostic Aids
"SCAN" tester reading should closely match speedometer reading with drive wheels turning.
See PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH DIAGNOSIS chart if vehicle is equipped with automatic transmission.
If Park/Neutral switch is okay, see INTERMITTENT TROUBLE CODES in the CCC TESTS W/O CODES
article in this section.
Fig. 32: Code 24, Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Flow Chart & Schematic
Fig. 33: Code 24, Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)
Circuit Description
The Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) sensor uses a thermistor to control signal voltage to ECM. The ECM
applies 4-6 volts on circuit No. 472 to sensor. When air is cold, sensor resistance is high; therefore, ECM will
see high voltage signal. If air is warm, sensor resistance is low; therefore, ECM will see low voltage.
Test Description
Diagnostic Aids
"SCAN" tester reads temperature of incoming air. This reading should be closed ambient air temperature when
engine is cold, and rise as underhood air temperature increases.
Carefully check harness and connections for possible short to ground in circuit No. 472.
See INTERMITTENT TROUBLE CODES in the CCC TESTS W/O CODES article in this section.
The TEMPERATURE-TO-RESISTANCE VALUE chart may be used to test MAT sensor at various
temperatures to evaluate possibility of "slewed" (mis-scaled) sensor. A "slewed" sensor could result in poor
drive- ability complaints.
Fig. 34: Code 25, MAT Sensor Voltage Low (2.5L Engine) Flow Chart & Schematic
Fig. 35: Code 25, MAT Sensor Voltage Low (2.5L Engine)
Circuit Description
The EGR valve is controlled by an ECM-operated solenoid. The solenoid is normally closed. The ECM
provides a ground to energized the solenoid which allows vacuum to flow to the EGR valve.
The ECM monitor EGR effectiveness by de-energizing the EGR control solenoid, thereby shutting off vacuum
to the EGR valve diaphragm. With the EGR valve closed, fuel integrator counts will be greater than they were
during normal EGR operation. If the change is not within the "calibrated window", Code 32 will be set.
The ECM checks EGR operation when vehicle speed is over 50 MPH, engine vacuum is 11.8-51.1 in. Hg, and
throttle position is constant (no change during check sequence).
Test Description
1. With ignition on, engine off, solenoid should not be energized and vacuum should not flow to EGR valve.
Grounding test terminal will energize the solenoid and vacuum should flow to EGR valve.
2. Checks for plugged EGR passages. If passages are plugged, engine may have severe detonation on
acceleration.
3. The EGR solenoid will not be energized in Park or Neutral positions. This step will determine if the P/N
switch input is being received by the ECM.
Diagnostic Aids
Before replacing ECM, use an ohmmeter to check the resistance of each ECM-controlled relay and solenoid
coil. See the appropriate WIRING DIAGRAM for identification of coil terminal on solenoids and relays to be
checked. Replace any solenoid where resistance is less than 20 ohms.
Fig. 36: Code 32, EGR System Failure (2.5L, 4.3L (Except "S/T"), 5.0L & 5.7L Under 8500 GVW) Flow
Chart & Schematic
Fig. 37: Code 32, EGR System Failure (2.5L, 4.3L (Except "S/T"), 5.0L & 5.7L Under 8500 GVW)
Circuit Description
The EGR valve is controlled by an ECM-operated solenoid. The solenoid is normally closed. The ECM
provides a ground to energized the solenoid which allows vacuum to flow to the EGR valve.
The ECM monitor EGR effectiveness by de-energizing the EGR control solenoid, thereby shutting off vacuum
to the EGR valve diaphragm. With the EGR valve closed, fuel integrator counts will be greater than they were
during normal EGR operation. If the change is not within the "calibrated window", Code 32 will be set.
The ECM checks EGR operation when vehicle speed is over 50 MPH, engine vacuum is 11.8-51.1 in. Hg, and
throttle position is constant (no change during check sequence).
Test Description
1. Grounding diagnostic terminal, EGR solenoid should be energized and allow vacuum to be applied to
EGR valve and vacuum should hold.
2. When diagnostic terminal is ungrounded, vacuum to EGR valve should bleed off through a vent in
solenoid and valve should close. The gauge may or may not bleed off, this does not indicate a problem.
3. This test will determine if the electrical control of the system is at fault or if connector or solenoid is at
fault.
4. Negative backpressure valve should hold vacuum when engine is not running.
5. When engine is started, exhaust backpressure should cause vacuum to bleed off and valve to fully close.
Diagnostic Aids
Before replacing ECM, use an ohmmeter to check the resistance of each ECM-controlled relay and solenoid
coil. See the appropriate WIRING DIAGRAM for identification of coil terminal on solenoids and relays to be
checked. Replace any solenoid where resistance is less than 20 ohms.
Fig. 38: Code 32, EGR System Failure (2.8L, 4.3L "S/T" Series, 5.7L & 7.4L Over 8500 GVW) Schematic
Fig. 39: Code 32, EGR System Failure (2.8L, 4.3L "S/T" Series, 5.7L & 7.4L Over 8500 GVW) Flow
Chart
NOTE: Before using this chart, check vacuum source to EGR solenoid. Also check
hoses for leaks or restrictions, should be at least 7" Hg vacuum at 2000 RPM.
Fig. 40: Code 32, EGR System Failure (2.8L, 4.3L "S/T" Series, 5.7L & 7.4L Over 8500 GVW)
CODE 33 - MAP SENSOR SIGNAL VOLTAGE HIGH
Circuit Description
The MAP sensor responds to changes in manifold pressure (vacuum). The ECM receives this information as a
signal voltage that varies from 1-1.5 volts at idle to 4-4.5 volts at wide open throttle.
Test Description
z Manifold pressure greater than 22.3 in. Hg with A/C off, or greater than 24 in. Hg with A/C on with
engine running.
z Throttle angle less than 2% with engine running.
z The above 2 conditions must be present for 2 seconds before ECM will store Code 33.
2. With MAP sensor disconnected, the ECM should recognize low voltage if ECM and wiring are okay.
Diagnostic Aids
The ALTITUDE-TO-VOLTAGE chart may be used to test MAP sensor at various altitudes to evaluate
possibility of "slewed" (mis-scaled) sensor. A "slewed" sensor could result in poor driveability complaints.
Engine misfire or a low and unstable idle may set Code 33. Disconnect MAP sensor and system will go into
back-up mode. If misfire or idle condition remains, see the CCC TESTS W/O CODES article in this section.
Fig. 41: Code 33, MAP Sensor (Signal Voltage High)
Circuit Description
The MAP sensor responds to changes in manifold pressure (vacuum). The ECM receives this information as a
voltage signal that varies from about 1-1.5 volts at idle to 4-4.5 volts at wide open throttle.
If MAP sensor fails, ECM substitutes a fixed MAP value and uses the TPS signal to control fuel delivery.
Test Description
2. Tests to see if sensor is cause of low voltage, or if it is an ECM fault, or wiring problem.
3. Simulates high signal voltage to check for an open in circuit No. 432. If test light is bright during test,
circuit No. 432 is probably shorted to ground. If "SCAN" tester reads over 4 volts, circuit No. 416 can be
checked for open or short to ground by measuring voltage at terminal "C" (should be 5 volts).
Diagnostic Aids
An intermittent open in circuit No. 416 will cause a Code 34. See INTERMITTENT TROUBLE CODES in the
CCC TESTS W/O CODES article in this section.
The ALTITUDE-TO-VOLTAGE chart may be used to test MAP sensor at various altitudes to evaluate
possibility of "slewed" (mis-scaled) sensor. A "slewed" sensor could result in poor driveability complaints.
Fig. 42: Code 34, MAP Sensor (Signal Voltage Low)
Circuit Description
Code 35 will set when closed throttle engine speed is 100 RPM above or below correct idle speed for 45
seconds.
Test Description
1. Continue with test even if engine will not idle. If idle is too low, "SCAN" will display 80 or more counts
or steps. If idle is high, "SCAN" will display zero counts (steps). Occasionally an erratic or unstable idle
may occur. Engine speed may vary 200 RPM or more up and down. Disconnect IAC. If condition is
unchanged, IAC is not at fault. There is a system problem. Proceed to step 3).
2. When engine was stopped, IAC valve retracted (more air) to fixed park position to provide increased
airflow during next engine start. "SCAN" will display 100 or more counts.
3. IAC MUST be disconnected before performing this step. Test light will confirm ECM signals by a steady
or flashing light on all circuits.
4. There is a remote possibility that one of the circuits is shorted to voltage that would have been indicated
by a steady light. Disconnect ECM and turn ignition on. Probe terminals to check for this condition.
Diagnostic Aids
A slow unstable idle may be caused by a system problem that cannot be overcome by IAC. The "SCAN" counts
will be above 60 counts (steps) if too low, and zero counts (steps) if too high.
If idle is too high, stop engine. Turn ignition on. Ground diagnostic terminal. Wait a few seconds for IAC to
seat, then disconnect IAC. Start engine. If idle speed is more than 750-850 RPM, locate and correct vacuum
leak.
Idle speed may be too high or too low. Engine speed may vary up and down. Disconnecting IAC does not help.
May set Code 44.
"SCAN" and/or voltmeter will read an oxygen sensor output of less than .30 volt (300 millivolts). Check for low
regulated fuel pressure, or water contaminated fuel. A lean exhaust with an oxygen sensor output fixed
above .80 volt (800 millivolts) indicates a contaminated sensor, usually silicon. This may set a Code 45.
Idle speed too low. "SCAN" counts usually above 80. System obviously rich, and may exhibit black smoke
exhaust.
"SCAN" and/or voltmeter will read an oxygen sensor signal fixed above .80 volt (800 millivolts). Check for
high fuel pressure, and/or leaking or sticking injector.
Throttle Body
Remove IAC and inspect bore for foreign material, or evidence of IAC valve dragging in bore.
A/C Compressor Relay Failure
Diagnose A/C system if shorted to ground. If relay is faulty, an idle problem may exist. See ROUGH,
UNSTABLE, INCORRECT IDLE, STALLING in the CCC TESTS W/O CODES article in this section.
Fig. 43: Code 35, Idle Speed Error (2.5L) Flow Chart & Schematic
Fig. 44: Code 35, Idle Speed Error (2.5L)
CODE 42 - ELECTRONIC SPARK TIMING
Circuit Description
When system is running on ignition module (no voltage on by-pass line), the ignition module grounds the EST
signal line. The ECM expects to see no voltage on the EST signal line during this condition. If the ECM sees
voltage on this line, Code 42 will be set and the system will not go into "EST" mode.
When engine RPM for EST is reached (about 400 RPM), and by-pass voltage is applied, EST should no longer
be grounded in ignition module, so EST voltage should be varying.
If the by-pass line is open or grounded, the ignition module will not switch to "EST" mode. EST voltage will be
low and Code 42 will be set.
If the EST line is grounded, the ignition module will switch to EST, but because the line is grounded, no EST
signal will be present. Code 42 will be set.
Code 42 sets if there is an open, or a short to ground, in the EST or by-pass circuit.
Test Description
1. Code 42 means the ECM has seen an open, or short to ground, in EST or by-pass circuit. This confirms
Code 42, and confirms that fault causing the code is also present.
2. Checks for normal EST ground path through ignition module. An EST circuit No. 423 shorted to ground
will also read less than 500 ohms (will be checked later).
3. As test light voltage touches circuit No. 424, module should switch, causing ohmmeter to "overrange" if
meter is in the 100-200 ohms position. Selecting 10-20,000 ohms position will indicate above 5000 ohms.
The important thing is that the module "switched".
4. The module did not switch and this step checks for:
z EST circuit No. 423 shorted to ground.
5. Confirms that Code 42 is a faulty ECM and not an intermittent in circuit No. 423 or circuit No. 424.
Diagnostic Aids
"SCAN" tester does not have any ability to help diagnose Code 42 problem.
See INTERMITTENT TROUBLE CODES in the CCC TESTS W/O CODES article in this section.
Fig. 45: Code 42, Electronic Spark Timing Schematic
Fig. 46: Code 42, Electronic Spark Timing Flow Chart
Fig. 47: Code 42, Electronic Spark Timing
Circuit Description
Electronic spark control is accomplished with the ESC module. The module sends a voltage signal to the ECM.
As knock sensor detects engine knock, voltage from ESC module to ECM drops. This signals ECM to retard
timing. ECM will retard timing when knock is detected, and RPM is above about 900 RPM.
Code 43 means the ECM has seen low voltage at circuit No. 485 (terminal "B7") for more than 5 seconds with
engine running, or system has failed functional check.
This system performs a functional check once per start-up to check ESC system. To perform this test, ECM will
advance spark when coolant temperature is above 203°F (95°C), and a high load condition is present (near wide
open throttle). The ECM then checks signal at terminal "B7" to determine if knock is detected. If knock is
detected when coolant temperature is below 203°F (95°C), the test has passed and the functional check will not
be run. If the functional check fails, the "SERVICE ENGINE NOW" light will remain on until ignition is turned
off, or until a knock signal is detected.
Test Description
1. If conditions for Code 43 are present, "SCAN" will display "YES". There should not be a knock at idle
unless an internal engine problem, or system problem, exists.
2. This determines if system is functioning at this time. Usually knock signal can be generated by tapping on
right exhaust manifold. If no knock signal is generated, try tapping on block close to sensor.
3. Because Code 43 sets when signal voltage on circuit No. 485 remains low, this step should cause the
signal on circuit No. 485 to go high. The 12-volt signal should be seen by ECM as "no knock", if ECM
and wiring are okay.
4. This determines if knock signal is being detected on circuit No. 496, or if ESC module is defective.
5. If circuit No. 496 is routed too close to secondary ignition wires, ESC module may see the interference as
a knock signal.
6. This checks ground circuit to ESC module. An open ground will cause voltage on circuit No. 485 to be
about 12 volts. This would cause Code 43 functional test to fail.
7. Connecting circuit No. 496 with test light to 12 volts should generate a knock signal. This will determine
if ESC module is operating properly.
Diagnostic Aids
Code 43 can be caused by a faulty connection at the knock sensor, at the ESC module, or at the ECM. Also
check circuit No. 485 for possible open or short to ground.
See INTERMITTENT TROUBLE CODES in the CCC TESTS W/O CODES article in this section.
Fig. 48: Code 43, Electronic Spark Control (2.8L, 4.3L, 5.0L & 5.7L Engines) Flow Chart & Schematic
Fig. 49: Code 43, Electronic Spark Control (2.8L, 4.3L, 5.0L & 5.7L Engines)
Circuit Description
The ECM supplies a voltage of about .45 volt between terminals "D6" and "D7" (If measured with a 10-
megohms digital voltmeter, this may read as low as .32 volts). The O2 sensor varies voltage from about one volt
(rich exhaust), to about .10 volt (lean exhaust).
The sensor is similar to an open circuit when its temperature is below about 600°F (315°C), and it produces no
voltage. An open sensor circuit or cold sensor causes open loop operation.
Test Description
Code 44 is set when the O2 sensor signal on circuit No. 412 remains below .2 volt for 20 seconds, and the
system is operating in "Closed Loop".
Diagnostic Aids
Using "SCAN" tester, observe block learn values at different RPM and airflow conditions. "SCAN" also
displays the block cells, so the block learn values can be checked in each of the cells to determine when Code
44 may have been set. If the conditions for Code 44 exist, the block learn values will be around 150.
O2 Sensor Wire
Sensor pigtail may be mispositioned and contacting exhaust manifold. Check for intermittent ground in wire
between connector and sensor.
Fuel Contamination
Water, even in small amounts, near in-tank fuel pump inlet can be delivered to fuel injectors. Water causes a
lean exhaust and can set Code 44.
Fuel Pressure
System will be lean if pressure is too low. It may be necessary to monitor fuel pressure while driving the vehicle
at various road speeds and/or loads to confirm. See CHART A6.
AIR System
Be sure air is not being directed to exhaust ports while in "Closed Loop". If block learn value goes down while
squeezing air hose to left side of exhaust ports, service AIR management system. If okay, oxygen sensor is
faulty.
If circuit No. 413 is open, voltage at terminal "D7" will be over one volt.
Sensor Harness
Circuit Description
The ECM supplies a voltage of about .45 volt between terminals "D7" (if measured with a 10 megohms digital
voltmeter, this may read as low as .32 volts). The O2 sensor varies the voltage from about one volt (rich
exhaust), to about .10 volt (lean exhaust).
The sensor is similar to an open circuit when its temperature is below about 600°F (215°C), and it produces no
voltage. An open sensor circuit or cold sensor causes "Open Loop" condition.
Test Description
1. Code 45 is set when the O2 signal on circuit No. 412 remains below .7 volts for 50 seconds, the system is
operating in "Closed Loop", time since engine start has been one minute or longer, and throttle angle is
greater than 2% (about .2 volt above idle voltage).
Diagnostic Aids
Using "SCAN" tester, observe block learn values at different RPM and airflow conditions. "SCAN" also
displays the block cells, so the block learn values can be checked in each of the cells to determine when Code
45 may have been set. If the conditions for Code 45 exist, the block learn values will be around 115.
Fuel Pressure
System will go rich if pressure is too high. The ECM can compensate for some increase. However, if pressure is
too high, Code 45 may be set. See Chart A6 for fuel pressure. See CHART A4 for leaking injector. Check for
fuel contaminated oil.
HEI Shielding
An open ground circuit may result in interference, or induced electrical "noise". The ECM looks at this "noise"
as a reference pulse. The additional reference pulse results in higher than actual engine speed signal. The ECM
then delivers too much fuel, causing the system to go rich. Engine tachometer will also show higher than actual
engine speed which can help in diagnosing this problem.
Canister Purge
Check for fuel saturation. If full of fuel, check canister control and hoses.
MAP Sensor
An output that causes the ECM to receive a higher than normal manifold pressure (low vacuum) can cause the
system to go rich. Disconnecting the MAP sensor will allow the ECM to set a fixed value for the MAP reading.
Substitute a different MAP sensor if the rich condition is gone while the MAP sensor is disconnected.
Pressure Regulator
Check for leaking fuel pressure regulator diaphragm by checking for presence of liquid fuel in vacuum line to
regulator.
TPS
An intermittent TPS output will cause the system to go rich, due to a false indication of engine acceleration.
Fig. 52: Code 45, Rich Exhaust Indication Flow Chart & Schematic
Fig. 53: Code 45, Rich Exhaust Indication
Check that all pins are fully inserted into socket. If okay, replace MEM-CAL, clear memory and recheck. If
Code 51 reappears, replace ECM.
Check that all pins are fully inserted in socket. If okay, replace PROM, clear memory and recheck. If Code 51
appears, replace ECM.
Check for missing CALPAK and that all pins are fully inserted into socket. If okay, replace ECM.
This code indicates a basic alternator problem. Code 53 will be set if voltage at ECM terminal "B1" is greater
than 17.1 volts for 2 seconds. Check and repair charging system.
Circuit Description
Status of fuel pump circuit No. 120 is monitored by the ECM at terminal "B2" and is used to compensate fuel
delivery based on system voltage. This signal is also used to store a trouble code if the fuel pump relay is
defective or fuel pump voltage is lost while the engine is running. There should be about 12 volts on circuit No.
120 for at least 2 seconds after the ignition is turned on, or any time reference pulses are being received by the
ECM.
Code 54 will set if the voltage at terminal "B2" is less than 2 volts for 1.5 seconds, since the last reference pulse
was received. This code is designed to detect a faulty relay, causing an extended crank time, and the code will
help in the diagnosis of "ENGINE CRANKS BUT WILL NOT RUN" condition.
If a fault is detected during start-up, the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light will stay on until the ignition is
cycled off.
Fig. 54: Code 54, Fuel Pump Circuit Flow Chart (Low Voltage)
Be sure ECM grounds are okay and that MEM-CAL, PROM, and/or CALPAK are properly latched. If okay,
replace ECM. Clear codes, confirm "Closed Loop" operation, and no "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light.
The MAP sensor measures manifold pressure (vacuum) and sends that signal to the ECM. The MAP sensor is
mainly used for fuel calculation, when ECM is running in the throttle body back-up mode.
The MAP sensor is also used to determine barometric pressure and to help calculate fuel delivery.
Test Description
1. Check MAP sensor output voltage to ECM. This voltage, without engine running, represents a barometric
reading to the ECM.
2. Apply 10 in. Hg vacuum to MAP sensor should cause voltage to be about 1.2 volts less than voltage in
step 1). Upon applying vacuum to sensor, the change in voltage should be immediate. A slow voltage
change indicates a faulty sensor.
3. Check vacuum hose to sensor for leaks or restriction. Be sure no other vacuum devices are connected to
MAP hose.
Fig. 59: MAP Output Check Flow Chart & Schematic
Fig. 60: MAP Output Check
Circuit Description
The P/N switch contacts are closed to ground in Park or Neutral, and open in all Drive ranges. The ECM
supplies ignition voltage, through a current limiting resistor, to circuit No. 434. The ECM senses a closed
switch when voltage on circuit No. 434 drops to less than one volt. The ECM uses P/N signal as one of the
inputs to control idle air, VSS diagnostics, and EGR flow.
Test Description
1. Checks for closed switch to ground in Park position. Different makes of "SCAN" testers will read P/N
signal differently. Refer to tester's instruction manual for type of display used for specific tester.
2. Checks for an open switch in Drive or Reverse.
3. Be sure "SCAN" tester indicates Drive, even while wiggling shifter, to test for an intermittent or
misadjusted switch in Drive.
Diagnostic Aids
If circuit No. 434 indicates P/N switch grounded while in Drive, EGR would be inoperative, resulting in
possible detonation.
If circuit No. 434 always indicates Drive (open), a drop in idle may exist when gear selector is moved into
Drive.
Circuit Description
The crank signal is a 12-volt signal to the ECM during cranking to allow enrichment, and to cancel diagnostics
until engine is running, or 12 volts on circuit is no longer present.
Test Description
NOTE: Test numbers refer to test numbers on diagnostic chart.
1. Checks for normal (cranking) voltage to terminal "C9" of ECM. Test light should be on during cranking
and then go off when engine is running.
2. Checks to determine if source of open fuse or fuse link was a faulty ECM.
Circuit Description
The power steering pressure switch is normally open to ground, and circuit No. 495 will be near battery voltage.
Turning steering wheel increases power steering oil pressure, and its load on an idling engine. The pressure
switch will close before the load can cause an idle problem. Closing switch causes circuit No. 495 to read less
than one volt. The ECM will increase idle air rate and retard timing.
Test Description
1. Checks for ECM signal voltage on circuit No. 495, and confirms ground circuit No. 450 is okay.
2. Maximum resistance, or infinity, indicates an open switch.
3. Less than one ohm indicates that switch is closed when power steering pressure is high. Switch is okay.
Diagnostic Aids
A pressure switch that will not close, or an open circuit No. 495 or circuit No. 450, may cause the engine to stop
when power steering loads are high.
A switch that will not open, or a circuit No. 450 or circuit No. 495 shorted to ground, will cause timing to retard
at idle, and may affect idle quality.
Fig. 65: Power Steering Pressure Switch (2.5L) - Flow Chart & Schematic
Circuit Description
The ECM control of the A/C clutch improves idle quality and performance by delaying clutch application until
idle air rate is increased, releasing clutch when idle speed is too low, releasing clutch at wide open throttle, and
smoothing cycling of compressor by providing additional fuel at instant clutch is applied.
Turning on A/C supplies circuit No. 459 battery voltage to the clutch control relay and terminal "B8" of ECM
connector. After a time delay of about .5 second, the ECM will ground terminal "A4" (circuit No. 458), and
close the control relay. A/C compressor clutch will engage.
Test Description
Circuit Description
The ECM control of the A/C clutch improves idle quality and performance by delaying clutch application until
idle air rate is increased, releasing clutch when idle speed is too low, releasing clutch at wide open throttle, and
smoothing cycling of compressor by providing additional fuel at instant clutch is applied.
Turning on A/C supplies circuit No. 459 battery voltage to the clutch control relay and terminal "B8" of ECM
connector. After a time delay of about .5 second, the ECM will ground terminal "A4" (circuit No. 458), and
close the control relay. A/C compressor clutch will engage.
Test Description
1. Checks for faulty cycling switch. Solenoids and relays are turned on and off by the ECM, using internal
electronic switches (drivers). Each driver is part of a group of 4, called"Quad-Drivers". Failure of one
driver can damage any other driver in set.
2. Solenoid and relay coil resistance must measure more than 20 ohms. Less resistance will cause early
failure of ECM driver. Using an ohmmeter, check coil resistance of A/C relay before replacing ECM.
Diagnostic Aids
Before replacing ECM, use ohmmeter to check resistance of each ECM-controlled relay or solenoid. Replace
any relay or solenoid that measures less than 20 ohms.
Fig. 70: A/C Clutch Control Diagnosis Flow Chart (2.5L) (3 Of 3)
Circuit Description
The ECM control of the A/C clutch improves idle quality and performance by delaying clutch application until
idle air rate is increased, releasing clutch when idle speed is too low, releasing clutch at wide open throttle, and
smoothing cycling of compressor by providing additional fuel at instant clutch is applied.
Turning on A/C supplies circuit No. 59 battery voltage to the clutch control relay and terminal "B8" of ECM
connector. After a time delay of about .5 second, the ECM will ground terminal "A2" (circuit No. 459), and
close the control relay. A/C compressor clutch will engage.
Test Description
Circuit Description
The ECM control of the A/C clutch improves idle quality and performance by delaying clutch application until
idle air rate is increased, releasing clutch when idle speed is too low, releasing clutch at wide open throttle, and
smoothing cycling of compressor by providing additional fuel at instant clutch is applied.
Turning on A/C supplies circuit No. 59 battery voltage to the clutch control relay and terminal "B8" of ECM
connector. After a time delay of about .5 second, the ECM will ground terminal "A2" (circuit No. 459), and
close the control relay. A/C compressor clutch will engage.
Test Description
Checks for faulty cycling switch. Solenoids and relays are turned on and off by the ECM, using internal
electronic switches (drivers). Each driver is part of a group of 4, called "Quad-Drivers". Failure of one driver
can damage any other driver in set.
Solenoid and relay coil resistance must measure more than 20 ohms. Less resistance will cause early failure of
ECM driver. Using an ohmmeter, check coil resistance of A/C relay before replacing ECM.
Diagnostic Aids
Before replacing ECM, use ohmmeter to check resistance of each ECM-controlled relay or solenoid. Replace
any relay or solenoid that measures less than 20 ohms.
Turning on A/C supplies battery voltage to circuit No. 59 A/C compressor clutch, and to terminal "B8" of ECM
connector to increase idle air rate and maintain idle speed.
The ECM does not control the A/C compressor clutch; therefore, if A/C does not function, service A/C system.
If A/C is operating properly and idle speed dips too low when A/C compressor turns on, or flares too high when
A/C compressor turns off, check for an open circuit No. 59 to ECM. If circuit is okay, it is a faulty ECM
connector terminal "B8" or ECM.
Fig. 78: A/C On Signal Diagnosis (4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L Engines) - Flow Chart & Schematic
Circuit Description
The ECM sends voltage pulses to proper IAC motor winding that causes the motor shaft and valve to move "in"
and "out" a given distance for each pulse (called counts) received. This movement controls airflow around the
throttle plate, that in turn controls engine idle speed.
Test Description
1. Continue with test even if engine will not idle. If idle is too low, "SCAN" will display 80 or more counts
(steps). Occasionally an erratic or unstable idle may occur. Engine speed may vary 200 RPM or more up
and down. Disconnect IAC. If condition is unchanged, IAC is not at fault. There is a system problem.
Proceed to step 3).
2. When engine was stopped, IAC valve retracted (more air) to fixed park position to provide increased
airflow during next engine start. "SCAN" will display 100 or more counts.
3. IAC MUST be disconnected before performing this step. Test light will confirm ECM signals by a steady
or flashing light on all circuits.
4. There is a remote possibility that one of the circuits is shorted to voltage that would have been indicated
by a steady light. Disconnect ECM and turn ignition on. Probe terminals to check for this condition.
Diagnostic Aids
A slow unstable idle may be caused by a system problem that cannot be overcome by the IAC. "SCAN" counts
will be above 60 counts (steps) if too low, and zero counts (steps) if too high.
If idle is too high, stop engine. Turn ignition on. Ground diagnostic terminal. Wait a few seconds for IAC to
seat, then disconnect IAC. Start engine. If idle speed is more than 750-850 RPM, locate and correct vacuum
leak.
Idle speed may be too high or too low. Engine speed may vary up and down. Disconnecting IAC does not help.
May set Code 44.
"SCAN" and/or voltmeter will read an oxygen sensor output of less than .30 volt (300 millivolts). Check for low
regulated fuel pressure, or water contaminated fuel. A lean exhaust with an oxygen sensor output fixed
above .80 volt (800 millivolts) indicates a contaminated sensor, usually silicon. This may set a Code 45.
Idle speed too low. "SCAN" counts usually above 80. System obviously rich, and may exhibit Black smoke
exhaust.
"SCAN" and/or voltmeter will read an oxygen sensor signal fixed above .80 volt (800 millivolts). Check for
high fuel pressure, and/or leaking or sticking injector.
Throttle Body
Remove IAC and inspect bore for foreign material, or evidence of IAC valve dragging in bore.
Diagnose A/C system if shorted to ground. If relay is faulty, an idle problem may exist. See ROUGH,
UNSTABLE, INCORRECT IDLE, STALLING in the CCC TESTS W/O CODES article in this section.
IDLE SPEED ERROR FLOW CHART (2.8L, 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L & 7.4L ENGINES)
Fig. 80: Idle Speed Error Schematic (2.8L, 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L & 7.4L Engines)
Test Description
1) Two wires are checked to ensure that an open is not present in a spark plug wire.
1A) If spark occurs with 4-terminal distributor connector disconnected, pick-up coil output is too low for
EST operation.
2) A spark indicates the problem must be distributor cap or rotor.
3) Normally, there should be battery voltage at "C" and "+" terminals. Low voltage would indicate an
open or a high resistance circuit from distributor to coil or ignition switch. If "C" terminal voltage was
low, but "+" terminal voltage is 10 volts or more, circuit from "C" terminal to ignition coil, or ignition
coil primary winding, is open.
4) Checks for a shorted module or grounded circuit from ignition coil to module. Distributor module
should be turned "Off", so normal voltage should be about 12 volts. If module is turned "ON", voltage
would be low, but above one volt. This could cause ignition coil failure from excessive heat. With open
ignition coil primary winding, small amount of voltage will leak through module from "Bat" terminal to
"Tach" terminal.
5) Applying 1.5-8 volts to module terminal "P" should turn module "ON" and "Tach" terminal voltage
should drop to about 7-9 volts. This test will determine whether the module or coil is faulty, or if pick-up
coil is not generating proper signal to turn module "ON". This test can be performed by using a DC
battery with a rating of 1.5-8 volts. The use of the test light is mainly to allow the "P" terminal to be
probed more easily. Some digital multimeters can also be used to trigger the module by selecting ohms,
usually the diode position. In this position, the meter may have a voltage across its terminals which can be
used to trigger the module. The voltage in the ohms position can be checked by using a second meter, or
by checking the manufacturer's specification of the tester being used.
6) This should turn module "OFF" and cause a spark. If no spark occurs, fault is most likely in ignition
coil because most module problems would have been found before this point in the procedure. A Module
Tester (J-24642) could determine which is at fault.
Diagnostic Aids
"SCAN" tester does not have any ability to help diagnose ignition system.
See INTERMITTENT TROUBLE CODES in the CCC TESTS W/O CODES article in this section.
Fig. 81: Ignition System Check (Remote Coil) Flow Chart (2.5L "S/T" Series)
Fig. 82: Ignition System Check (Remote Coil) Flow Chart (2.5L "S/T" Series) (1 Of 2)
Fig. 83: Ignition System Check (Remote Coil) Flow Chart (2.5L "S/T" Series) (2 Of 2)
Fig. 84: Ignition System Check (Remote Coil) Schematic (2.5L "S/T" Series)
Test Description
1) Two wires are checked to ensure that an open is not present in a spark plug wire.
1A) If spark occurs with 4-terminal distributor connector disconnected, pick-up coil output is too low for
EST operation.
2) A spark indicates the problem must be distributor cap or rotor.
3) Normally, there should be battery voltage at "C" and "+" terminals. Low voltage would indicate an
open or a high resistance circuit from distributor to coil or ignition switch. If "C" terminal voltage was
low, but "+" terminal voltage is 10 volts or more, circuit from "C" terminal to ignition coil, or ignition
coil primary winding, is open.
4) Checks for shorted module or grounded circuit from ignition coil to module. Distributor module should
be turned "OFF", so normal voltage should be about 12 volts. If module is turned "ON", voltage would be
low, but above one volt. This could cause ignition coil failure from excessive heat. With open ignition
coil primary winding, small amount of voltage will leak through module from "Bat" terminal to "Tach"
terminal.
5) Checks for open module, or circuit to module. Applying 12 volts to "P" terminal or module should turn
module "ON" and voltage should drop to about 7-9 volts.
6) This should turn module "OFF" and cause a spark. If no spark occurs, fault is most likely in ignition
coil because most module problems would have been found before this point in the procedure. A Module
Tester (J-24642) could determine which is at fault.
Diagnostic Aids
"SCAN" tester does not have any ability to help diagnose ignition system.
See INTERMITTENT TROUBLE CODES in the CCC TESTS W/O CODES article in this section.
Fig. 85: Ignition System Check Flow Chart (Remote Coil/Sealed Connector Distributor) (Except 2.5L
"S/T" Series)
Fig. 86: Ignition System Check Flow Chart (Remote Coil/Sealed Connector Distributor) (Except 2.5L
"S/T" Series)(1 Of 2)
Fig. 87: Ignition System Check Flow Chart (Remote Coil/Sealed Connector Distributor) (Except 2.5L
"S/T" Series)(2 Of 2)
Fig. 88: Ignition System Check Circuit Diagram (Remote Coil/Sealed Connector Distributor) (Except
2.5L "S/T" Series)
Circuit Description
Electronic spark control is accomplished with a module that sends a voltage signal to the ECM. As the knock
sensor detects engine knock, voltage from ESC module to ECM is shut off. This signals the ECM to retard
timing, if engine RPM is over about 900 RPM.
Test Description
1. If Code 43 is not set, but a knock signal is indicated with engine running at 1500 RPM, listen for an
internal engine noise. Under a no load condition, there should not be any detonation. If knock is indicated
under no load condition, an internal engine problem may exist.
2. Usually a knock signal can be generated by tapping on right exhaust manifold. This test can also be
performed at idle. Step 1) was run at 1500 RPM to determine if a constant knock signal was present that
would affect engine performance.
3. Tests whether the knock signal is due to the sensor, a basic engine problem, or the ESC module.
4. If the module ground circuit is faulty, the ESC module will not function correctly. The test light should
light, indicating the ground circuit is okay.
5. Contacting circuit No. 496 with a test light to 12 volts should generate a knock signal to determine
whether the knock sensor is faulty, or if the ESC module cannot recognize a knock signal.
Diagnostic Aids
"SCAN" testers have two positions to diagnose the ESC system. The knock signal can be monitored to see if the
knock sensor is detecting a knock condition, and if the ESC module is functioning. Knock signal should display
"YES" on "SCAN" tester whenever detonation is present. The knock retard position on the "SCAN" displays
the amount of spark retard the ECM is commanding. The ECM can retard timing up to 20 degrees.
If the ESC system checks okay, but detonation is the complaint, see DETONATION/SPARK KNOCK in the
CCC TESTS W/O CODES article in this section.
This check should be used after other causes of spark knock have been checked; such as, engine timing, EGR
systems, engine temperature, or excessive engine noise.
Fig. 89: Electronic Spark Control Check (Except 2.5L & 7.4L Engines) - Flow Chart & Schematic
Fig. 90: Electronic Spark Control Check (Except 2.5L & 7.4L Engines)
AIR MANAGEMENT CHECK (ELECTRONIC AIR CONTROL VALVE)
Circuit Description
An electronic air control (EAC) valve solenoid directs air into the exhaust ports, or routes air to the air cleaner.
During cold start on all engines except 2.8L Federal engine. The ECM completes the ground circuit. This
energizes the EAC valve solenoid to direct air to the exhaust ports. As coolant temperature increases, or system
goes into "Closed. Loop" mode, the ECM opens the ground circuit. This de-energizes the EAC valve solenoid
to direct air to the air cleaner.
If the system is not operating properly, check manifold vacuum signal (10 in. Hg) at the valve and check the
electrical circuit from the solenoid to the ECM.
Test Description
1. This is a system performance test. When vehicle goes to "Closed Loop", air will switch from the exhaust
ports to divert air to the air cleaner.
2. Tests for a grounded electric divert circuit. Normal system light will be off.
3. Checks for an open control circuit. Grounding diagnostic terminal will energize the solenoid. If the ECM
and circuits are okay. In this step, if test light is on, circuits are okay and fault is in valve connections or
valve.
4. Checks for voltage from battery through a fuse to the solenoid.
Fig. 91: AIR Management Check Flow Chart (Elect. Air Control Valve)
Fig. 92: AIR Management Check Flow Chart (Elect. Air Control Valve)
Fig. 93: AIR Management Check Schematic (Elect. Air Control Valve)
Circuit Description
The ECM operates a solenoid to control EGR valve. This solenoid is normally closed. By providing the ground
path, the ECM energizes the solenoid to allow vacuum to flow to the EGR valve. The ECM control of EGR is
based upon the following inputs: engine coolant temperature above 77°F (25°C), throttle position off idle, and
MAP reading.
Test Description
Diagnostic Aids
Before replacing ECM, use an ohmmeter to check resistance of each ECM-controlled relay and solenoid coil.
Replace any solenoid if resistance measures less than 20 ohms.
Fig. 94: EGR System Check Flow Chart (2.5L, 4.3L, 5.0L & 5.7L Under 8500 GVW)
Fig. 95: EGR System Check Flow Chart (2.5L, 4.3L, 5.0L & 5.7L Under 8500 GVW
Fig. 96: EGR System Check Schematic (2.5L, 4.3L, 5.0L & 5.7L Under 8500 GVW)
EGR SYSTEM CHECK (2.8/4.3L "S/T" & 5.7/7.4L OVER 8500 GVW)
Circuit Description
The EGR valve is controlled by a normally closed solenoid (allows vacuum to flow when energized). The ECM
pulses the solenoid to turn on and regulate EGR. The ECM diagnoses the system using an internal EGR test
procedure. The ECM control of EGR is based upon the following outputs: engine coolant temperature greater
than 77°F (25°C), throttle position off idle, and MAP reading.
If Code 24 is present, use that chart first. Code 32 will detect a faulty solenoid, vacuum supply, EGR valve or
plugged passage. This chart checks for plugged EGR passages, a sticking EGR valve, or a stuck open or
inoperative solenoid.
Test Description
1. With ignition on (engine off), the solenoid should not be energized and vacuum should not flow to EGR
valve.
2. Grounding the diagnostic terminal will energize the solenoid and allow vacuum to flow to the EGR valve.
3. Checks for plugged EGR passages. If passages are plugged, the engine may have severe detonation upon
acceleration.
4. The EGR solenoid will not be energized in Park or Neutral. This test will determine if the P/N switch
input is being received by the ECM.
Diagnostic Aids
Before replacing ECM, use an ohmmeter to check resistance of each ECM-controlled relay and solenoid coil.
See the appropriate WIRING DIAGRAM for identification of coil terminal on solenoids and relays to be
checked. Replace any solenoid if resistance measures less than 20 ohms.
Fig. 97: EGR System Check Flow Chart (2.8/4.3L "S/T" & 5.7/7.4L Over 8500 GVW)
Fig. 98: EGR System Check Flow Chart (2.8/4.3L "S/T" & 5.7/7.4L Over 8500 GVW)
Fig. 99: EGR System Check Schematic (2.8/4.3L "S/T" & 5.7/7.4L Over 8500 GVW)
Circuit Description
The purpose of TCC is to eliminate the power loss of torque converter stage when vehicle is in "cruise"
condition. This allows the use of an automatic transmission with the fuel economy of a manual transmission.
Fused battery ignition power is supplied to TCC solenoid through the TCC brake switch.
The ECM will engage TCC by grounding circuit No. 422 to energize the TCC solenoid.
Engagement of torque converter clutch will be executed under the following conditions:
Test Description
Solenoid coil resistance must measure more than 20 ohms. Less resistance ill cause early failure of the ECM
"DRIVER". Using an ohmmeter, check solenoid coil resistance of all ECM-controlled solenoids and relays
before replacing ECM. Replace any solenoid or relay that measures less than 20 ohms resistance.
Circuit Description
The purpose of TCC is to eliminate the power loss of torque converter stage when vehicle is in "cruise"
condition. This allows the use of an automatic transmission with the fuel economy of a manual transmission.
Fused battery ignition power is supplied to TCC solenoid through the TCC brake switch.
The ECC will engage TCC by grounding circuit No. 422 to energize the TCC solenoid.
Engagement of torque converter clutch will be executed under the following conditions:
Test Description
1. Glowing test light indicates that battery voltage and continuity through TCC Solenoid are okay.
2. Checks for vehicle speed sensor (VSS) signal to ECM, using a "SCAN" tester.
3. Checks for 4th gear signal to ECM. This signal will not prevent TCC engagement, but could cause a
change in engage/disengage speed points.
Diagnostic Aids
Solenoid coil resistance must measure more than 20 ohms. Less resistance will cause early failure of the ECM
"DRIVER". Using an ohmmeter, check solenoid coil resistance of all ECM-controlled solenoids and relays
before replacing ECM. Replace any solenoid or relay that measures less than 20 ohms resistance.
Fig. 103: TCC Elect. Diagnosis Flow Chart (4.3/5.0/5.7L Under 8500 GVW)
z Coolant Temperature
z TPS
z VSS
z Codes - If 24 Is Present, See Code Chart 24
z Also, Perform Mechanical Checks, Such As Linkage, Oil Level, Etc., Before Using This Chart
Fig. 104: TCC Elect. Diagnosis (4.3/5.0/5.7L Under 8500 GVW) (1 Of 2)
Fig. 105: TCC Elect. Diagnosis (4.3/5.0/5.7L Under 8500 GVW) (2 Of 2)
Fig. 106: TCC Elect. Diagnosis Schematic Diagram (4.3/5.0/5.7L Under 8500 GVW)
Circuit Description
When accelerator pedal is fully depressed, manifold vacuum drops, causing MAP sensor signal voltage to
increase to about 4 volts. The ECM responds by grounding circuit No. 422 to energize downshift control relay.
The downshift control relay then sends battery voltage to detent solenoid that causes a forced transmission
downshift.
Diagnostic Aids
If problem is diagnosed as being an internal transmission problem, perform transmission service.
Relay coil resistance must measure more than 20 ohms. Less resistance will cause early failure of the ECM
"DRIVER". Using an ohmmeter, check solenoid coil resistance of all ECM-controlled solenoids and relays
before replacing ECM. Replace any solenoid or relay that measures less than 20 ohms resistance.
Fig. 107: THM 400 Downshift Control Electrical Diagnosis Flow Chart
Fig. 108: THM 400 Downshift Control Electrical Diagnosis
Fig. 109: THM 400 Downshift Control Electrical Diagnosis Schematic
Circuit Description
The ECM uses information from the following inputs to control the shift light; coolant temperature, throttle
position, vehicle speed, and engine RPM. The ECM uses the measured RPM and vehicle speed to calculate
what gear the vehicle is in. This calculation determines when shift light is energized.
Test Description
1. This should not turn the shift light on. If light is on, there is a short to ground in circuit No. 456 wiring, or
a fault in the ECM.
2. This should turn shift light on.
3. This check for an open in the shift light circuit, or a faulty ECM.
Fig. 110: Manual Transmission Shift Light Check Flow Chart
Fig. 111: Manual Transmission Shift Light Check
Fig. 112: Manual Transmission Shift Light Check Schematic
COMPONENT LOCATIONS
Fig. 113: Component Locations for "S/T" Series 2.5L
Fig. 114: Component Locations for "S/T" Series 2.8L
Fig. 115: Component Locations for "S/T" Series 4.3L
Fig. 116: Component Locations for Astro & Safari 2.5L
Fig. 117: Component Locations for Astro & Safari 4.3L
Fig. 118: Component Locations for "G" Series 4.3L
Fig. 119: Component Locations for "G" Series 5.0L & 5.7L
Fig. 120: Component Locations for "G" Series 7.4L
Fig. 121: Component Locations for "C/K" Series 4.3L
Fig. 122: Component Locations for "C/K" Series 5.0L & 5.7L
Fig. 123: Component Locations for "R/V" Series 5.0L & 5.7L
Fig. 124: Component Locations for "C/K" Series & "R/V" Series 7.4L
Fig. 125: Component Locations for "P" Series 5.7L
ECM TERMINAL ID
Fig. 126: ECM Terminal ID & Voltage Values (2.5L Engine)
Fig. 127: ECM Terminal ID & Voltage Values (2.8L Engine)
Fig. 128: ECM Terminal ID & Voltage Values (4.3/5.0/5.7/7.4L Engines)
WIRING DIAGRAMS
Fig. 129: Astro & Safari (2.5L) Wiring Diagram
Fig. 130: "S/T" Series (2.5L) Wiring Diagram
Fig. 131: "S/T" Series (2.8L & 4.3L) Wiring Diagram
Fig. 132: "M" Series: Astro & Safari (4.3L) Wiring Diagram
Fig. 133: "G" Series Van (4.3L, 5.0L & 5.7L & 7.4L) Wiring Diagram
Fig. 134: "C/K" Series (4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L & 7.4L) Wiring Diagram
Fig. 135: "R/V" Series (5.7L & 7.4L) Wiring Diagram
Fig. 136: "P" Series Vans (5.7L) Wiring Diagram
CCC THEORY/OPERATION
DESCRIPTION
NOTE: Most Computer Command Control (CCC) problems are the result of mechanical
breakdowns, poor electrical connections, or damaged vacuum hoses. Before
considering the CCC system as a possible cause of problems, check ignition
high tension wires, fuel supply, electrical connections, and vacuum hoses.
Failure to do so may result in lost diagnostic time.
The computerized engine control system used on 1988 General Motors trucks monitors as many as 19
engine/vehicle functions. Refer to ECM CONDITIONS SENSED & SYSTEMS CONTROLLED in this
article. This system controls engine operation and lowers exhaust emissions while maintaining fuel economy
and driveability. The Electronic Control Module (ECM) is the "brain"of the CCC system.
The computerized engine control system is primarily an emission control system, designed to maintain a 14.7:1
air/fuel ratio under all operating conditions. When the ideal air/fuel ratio is maintained, the 3-way catalytic
converter can control Oxides of Nitrogen (NOx), Hydrocarbon (HC) and Carbon Monoxide (CO) emissions.
Systems Controlled:
z Air Management
z Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)
z Electronic Spark Timing (EST)
z Fuel Control
z Idle Air Control (IAC)
z Electric Fuel Pump
z Transmission Converter Clutch (TCC)
z Downshift Control or Manual
z Transmission Shift Light
z Air Conditioning
z Diagnostics
z "Service Engine Soon" Light
z Diagnostic Terminal (ALDL)
z Data Output (ALDL)
z Electronic Spark Control (ESC)
OPERATION
FUEL CONTROL OPERATION
An electrically pulsed injector is located in the intake manifold throttle body unit. The 2.5L engine uses one
throttle body-mounted injector, while all other engines use two throttle body-mounted injectors. The ECM
controls injector "on" time (pulse width) to provide the proper amount of fuel to the engine, resulting in a 14.7:1
air/fuel ratio under most conditions.
Fig. 1: Model 700 Throttle Body Injection Unit Used on 2.5L Engine
Fig. 2: Model 220 Throttle Body Injection Unit Used on V6 & V8 Eng
DATA SENSORS
Each sensor furnishes electronic impulses to the ECM. Based on these input signals, the ECM computes spark
timing and air/fuel mixture for proper engine operation.
The CTS, a thermistor that changes value based upon temperature, is located in a coolant passage. The ECM
sends a 5-volt signal to the CTS through a resistor in the ECM. This 5-volt signal is reduced by the resistance of
the CTS and a return signal is sent to the ECM.
When coolant temperatures are low, CTS resistance is high (1000,000 ohms at -40°F/-40°C)). When coolant
temperatures are high, CTS resistance is low (70 ohms at 266°F/130°F). Engine coolant temperature is used by
the ECM to control most CCC systems. A coolant sensor problem may set Code 14 or 15.
The MAP sensor measures changes in intake manifold pressure resulting from engine load and speed changes.
A 5-volt reference signal is sent to the sensor from the ECM. This signal is modified by the resistance of the
sensor and sent back to the ECM.
Sensor resistance changes with manifold pressure. Therefore, sensor output voltage to the ECM is a direct
indication of manifold pressure. High voltage indicates a high pressure condition requiring more fuel; while low
voltage indicates a low pressure condition requiring less fuel. The ECM uses this information to control fuel
delivery and ignition timing. A failure in the MAP sensor problem may set Code 33 or Code 34.
The O2 sensor is mounted in the exhaust manifold where it can monitor oxygen content of exhaust gases. The
oxygen content reacts with the sensor to produce a voltage output signal which is sent to the ECM. This voltage
signal is always low, varying from a minimum of about 0.1 volt (lean mixture-high oxygen content) to a high of
about 0.9 volt (rich mixture-low oxygen content).
Based on this input, the ECM produces injector pulse width command signals that provide a leaner or richer
mixture. An oxygen sensor problem may set a Code 13, Code 44, or Code 45.
The TPS is a variable resistor connected to the throttle shaft of the TBI unit. The sensor is a potentiometer that
has one end connected to the 5-volt ECM signal line and other end connected to ground. As throttle valve angle
changes, a return voltage is sent back to the ECM through the third wire. Output voltage to the ECM is about .5
volts when throttle valve is closed, and about 5 volts when throttle valve is at wide open throttle.
A broken TPS can cause unstable idle and intermittent pulses of fuel from the fuel injectors because the ECM
thinks the throttle valve is moving. An open circuit will cause the ECM to think the throttle is closed, and will
normally set Code 22. If the circuit is shorted, the ECM may think the throttle is at wide open position and
should set Code 21. Once a trouble code is set, the ECM will use an artificial value for the TPS signal, and
some vehicle performance will return.
The MAT sensor, a thermistor that changes value based upon temperature, is located in the intake manifold of
2.5L engines only. The MAT sensor measures changes in intake manifold temperature. These changes are
converted to electrical signals to be used by the ECM. A 5-volt reference signal is sent to the sensor from the
ECM. This signal is modified by the resistance of the sensor and sent back to the ECM.
When manifold temperatures are low, MAT resistance is high (100,000 ohms at -40°F/-40°C). When manifold
temperatures are high, MAT resistance is low (70 ohms at 266°F/130°F). Manifold temperature is used by the
ECM to allow EGR flow after manifold temperature reaches about 40°F (5°C), and to retard ignition timing
slightly when ambient air temperatures are high. A MAT sensor problem may set a Code 23 or Code 25.
A high gear switch is installed inside automatic transmission equipped vehicles. This switch is normally open, it
closes in high gear. This switch sends a signal to the ECM telling it that the transmission is in high gear. The
ECM uses this information to delay disengagement of the torque converter clutch.
Knock Sensor
A knock sensor is used on 2.8L, 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L engines. Mounted in the engine block near the cylinders,
this sensor detects abnormal engine vibration due to "detonation" and/or "pre-ignition". The knock sensor
supplies detonation information to the ECM and the Electronic Spark Control (ESC) module. The ECM then
alters ignition timing as needed to maintain maximum timing under most operating conditions.
The P/N switch is mounted on the steering column of automatic transmission equipped vehicles. The switch
indicates when the trans- mission is in Park or Neutral. Information from the P/N switch is used by the ECM to
control operation of the torque converter and idle air control.
The VSS is located behind the speedometer or on transmission on "C/K" or "P" Series. It sends a pulsing
voltage signal to the ECM which uses it to determine vehicle speed. The ECM uses speed information to control
operation of the torque converter (automatic transmission), shift indicator light (manual transmission), and
cruise control.
This switch is used on 2.5L only and is located near the power steering gear. The switch is normally open.
When steering gear is at full left or full right position, the switch closes to indicate to the ECM that idle speed
should be increased and that spark timing should be retarded.
This device is used only on 2.8L engines. It is located next to the ECM. The "E" cell timer module is a cold start
modifier programmer. It provides an added enrichment signal to the ECM for about 4 seconds during cold
starts. After a specific number of operating hours, this device is no longer required and becomes inoperative.
Crank Signal
Although no switch or sensor is used, the ECM requires this information for fuel enrichment during starting.
This information is relayed to the ECM through the ignition switch and starter solenoid.
Although no switch or sensor is used, the ECM requires crankshaft position and engine speed (RPM)
information for ignition timing and fuel supply. This information is relayed to the ECM through terminal "C" of
the distributor 4-terminal connector (terminal "B" on "S" Series 2.5L engine).
The Electronic Control Module (ECM) is the control center of the CCC system. The ECM is located in the
passenger compartment on all vehicles. It is located behind right kick panel on Astro and Safari vans, beneath
driver's seat on "G" series vans, behind left side of dash on "P" series vans, or behind right side of dash on "P"
series vans, or behind right side of dash, near glove box, on all other models.
The ECM senses engine operating conditions, processes input signals, and controls the various systems that
affect vehicle performance. The ECM also performs the diagnostic function of the system. It can recognize
operational problems, alerts the driver through the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light, and stores trouble codes.
The ECM senses engine operating conditions and controls the systems shown.
Two different types of ECM's are used in these vehicles. All 2.5L engine equipped vehicles use a "GMP4"
computer with 2 parts: controller and "MEM-CAL" unit. All other engines use a "GMCM" computer with 3
parts: controller, "PROM", AND "CALPAK".
The CALPAK contains back-up fuel control circuitry required to keep the vehicle operable enough to get it to a
repair facility in the event the ECM becomes damaged or defective. If battery voltage is removed, CALPAK
information will be retained. The CALPAK can be removed from the ECM. If the CALPAK is missing from the
ECM, a no start and run condition will be exhibited. A missing CALPAK can also set a Code 52.
Controller
The controller is the microprocessor unit (ECM without CALPAK, PROM and/or MEM-CAL). This unit
performs all the calculations and translations necessary for controlling the various systems.
MEM-CAL (Memory And Calibration Unit)
The MEM-CAL unit incorporates the functions of the PROM and CALPAK into one unit. It contains factory
programmed information on engine calibration, vehicle weight, transmission usage, and rear axle ratio. It also
contains the back-up fuel control circuitry required to keep the vehicle operable enough to get it to a repair
facility in the event the ECM becomes damaged or defective. If battery voltage is removed, MEM-CAL
information will be retained. The MEM-CAL unit can be removed from the ECM.
This is factory programmed information, including engine calibration data, transmission, vehicle weight, and
rear axle ratio application. The PROM can be removed from the ECM. If battery voltage is removed, PROM
information will be retained. The PROM is listed as a calibrator in the parts catalogs.
The ECM incorporates a "learning" process that can make corrections to its preprogrammed information on
air/fuel ratio to improve driveability. The learning process must be renewed whenever the battery is
disconnected from the vehicle. To begin the process, the vehicle must be at normal operating temperature. Then
drive the vehicle under part throttle, moderate acceleration, and idle conditions until normal performance
characteristics return.
CAUTION: The ECM must be insulated from extreme heat conditions such as paint
booths. Also, shield the ECM if temperatures near the ECM are expected to
exceed 185°F (85°C).
The following systems are controlled by the Electronic Control Module (ECM) in response to input from the
sensed systems:
z AIR Management
z Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)
z Electronic Spark Timing (EST)
z Fuel Control
z Idle Air Control (IAC)
z Electric Fuel Pump
z Torque Converter Clutch (TCC)
z Downshift Control
z Manual Transmission Shift Light
z Air Conditioning
z Diagnostics
z "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" Light
z Diagnostic Terminal (ALDL)
z Data Output (ALDL)
z Electronic Spark Control
IGNITION TIMING OPERATION
HEI-EST
All models are equipped with a High Energy Ignition system with Electronic Spark Timing (HEI-EST). The
distributor contains an 8-terminal (7-terminal on 2.5L engine) HEI-EST control module. The distributor is
connected to the EST system by means of a 4-wire connector, leading to the ECM.
On 2.5L engines the HEI-EST system consists of a Hall effect switch, distributor module, ECM, and necessary
electrical connections. The function of each terminal in the 4-terminal connector is as follows:
z Terminal "A" (Electronic Spark Timing) is the circuit that triggers the module. The ECM does not know
what the actual timing is, but it does know when it receives the reference signal. When the reference
signal is received, the ECM advances or retards timing from the point. If base timing is set incorrectly,
the engine spark curve will also be incorrect.
z Terminal "B" (Distributor Reference High) provides RPM and crankshaft position information to the
ECM.
z Terminal "C" (By-Pass) is the circuit to which the ECM applies 5 volts to switch spark timing from the
ignition module to the ECM when engine speed reaches about 400 RPM. An open or grounded bypass
circuit will set a Code 42, and the engine will run at base timing plus small amount of advance built into
the ignition module.
z Terminal "D" (Reference Ground Low) is grounded in the distributor. This ensures the ground circuit has
no voltage drop that could affect performance. If this circuit is open, it may cause poor vehicle
performance.
On all other engines the HEI-EST system consists of a distributor module, ECM, and necessary electrical
connections. The function of each terminal in the 4-terminal connector is as follows:
z Terminal "A" (Reference Ground Low) is grounded in the distributor. This ensures the ground circuit has
no voltage drop that could affect performance. If this circuit is open, it may cause poor vehicle
performance.
z Terminal "B" (By-Pass) is the circuit to which the ECM applies 5 volts to switch spark timing from the
ignition module to the ECM when engine speed reaches about 400 RPM. An open or grounded by-pass
circuit will set a Code 42, and the engine will run at base timing plus small amount of advance built into
the ignition module.
z Terminal "C" (Distributor Reference High) provides RPM and crankshaft position information to the
ECM.
z Terminal "D" (Electronic Spark Timing) is the circuit that triggers the module. The ECM does not know
what the actual timing is, but it does know when it receives the reference signal. When the reference
signal is received, the ECM advances or retards timing from that point. If base timing is set incorrectly,
the engine spark curve will also be incorrect.
The PROM (MEM-CAL on 2.5L engine) in the ECM has a basic spark advance curve built into it. Engine
sensor values are used by the ECM to modify PROM (MEM-CAL) information, increasing or decreasing spark
advance to achieve maximum performance with minimum emissions. Spark timing is calculated by the ECM
whenever an ignition pulse is present. Spark advance is controlled only when engine is running (not during
cranking).
ESC
The 2.8L, 4.3L, 5.0L, and 5.7L engines use the Electronic Spark Control (ESC) system. This system consists of
three main components: ESC module, knock sensor, and ECM. Under normal conditions (no spark knock, the
ESC module sends a voltage signal of 8-10 volts to the ECM, and the ECM provides normal spark advance.
If the knock sensor detects spark knock, it signals the ESC module which then turns off the voltage signal to the
ECM. The ECM retards ignition timing as needed to reduce knock. A fault in the ESC system should result in
sluggish performance and set Code 43.
This system is used on 2.5L engines. If there is voltage greater than 17.1 volts for 2 seconds at ECM terminal
"B1", a Code 53 will be set. Code 53 indicates a basic alternator problem.
The ECM electrically controls the following emission control systems: Air Injection Reaction (AIR)
Management and Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR).
This system helps reduce hydrocarbon (HC) and carbon monoxide (CO) exhaust emissions. Air is injected into
the exhaust ports, allowing for completion of the combustion process after exhaust gases leave the combustion
chamber.
When the ECM energizes the air control valve, airflow from the air pump to the valve is directed to the exhaust
ports. During warm engine operation (closed loop) on all except Federal 2.8L engine, the ECM de-energizes the
air control valve, diverting airflow to the air cleaner. On Federal 2.8L engine, air is diverted to air cleaner only
during deceleration of the engine.
NOTE: The AIR management system is controlled by the ECM. It is not used on 2.5L
engines.
EGR System
An ECM-controlled solenoid valve is used to control EGR valve function. This valve is located in the vacuum
line to the EGR valve and is operated by the ECM in response to coolant temperature, throttle position, and
manifold pressure.
Under conditions of low coolant temperature, engine cranking, wide open throttle, or engine idle, the solenoid
valve is de-energized, blocking vacuum to the EGR valve. At normal operating temperature with engine speed
above idle, the solenoid valve is energized, allowing normal EGR valve function.
Two EGR valves and systems are used depending upon vehicle weight and engine application. Vehicles under
8500 GVW with 2.5L, 4.3L, 5.0L or 5.7L engines use a negative backpressure EGR valve with ECM-controlled
solenoid valve. Vehicles over 8500 GVW with 2.8L, 5.7L or 7.4L engines use a ported EGR valve with ECM-
controlled solenoid valve. In addition, 2.8L engine vehicles use an EGR vacuum switch to monitor vacuum to
the EGR valve.
NOTE: The EGR system is used on all engines and is controlled by the ECM.
The ECM controls the A/C compressor clutch to improve idle quality on A/C-equipped 2.5L and 2.8L engines.
The A/C compressor will be engaged or disengaged as deemed necessary by ECM.
On 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L engines, the ECM monitors the A/C control switch and pressure cycling switch.
When A/C is activated, the ECM increases the idle air rate to maintain idle speed. The ECM does not control
A/C compressor clutch on these vehicles.
On 2.5L engines, idle speed is increased and ignition timing is retarded when engine is at idle, and the steering
wheel is turned full right or full left. This prevents engine from stalling when power steering system is working
at full capacity under idle conditions.
The ECM controls a solenoid valve mounted in the THM 700-R4 transmission to allow the torque converter to
directly connect the engine to the transmission. This reduces slippage and improves fuel economy. The ECM
uses information concerning vehicle speed, coolant temperature, throttle position and gear position (some
models) to determine when to apply the TCC.
When operating conditions indicate that the transmission should function normally, or when the brake pedal is
applied, the TCC solenoid is de-energized. This allows the transmission to return to normal automatic operation.
Vehicles equipped with THM 400 transmissions are equipped with an ECM-controlled downshift system. When
vehicle is at speeds below 70 MPH, a forced (detent) downshift is possible by fully depressing the accelerator.
When the ECM recognizes the drop in manifold vacuum (high MAP sensor voltage reading), the downshift
control relay is energized by the ECM. The relay directs battery voltage to the detent solenoid in the
transmission to open an orifice to force the transmission to downshift.
The shift light system is used on all manual transmission equipped vehicles. The ECM monitors coolant
temperature, throttle position, vehicle speed, and engine speed to control the shift light.
The ECM calculates what gear position the vehicle should be in and uses this information to turn on the light.
The light indicates the best shift point to the driver for maximum fuel economy.
All 7.4L and some 5.7L engines use a fuel module to correct vapor lock (hot restart) during high ambient
temperature conditions. The module overrides the ECM 2-second pump operation and will run the fuel pump
for 20 seconds when ignition is first turned on.
An inoperative fuel module may cause a hot stall/no start condition. Check for power and ground circuit to fuel
module and check complete circuit to pump from terminal "A". If okay, and pump does not run for the specified
20 seconds when ignition is first turned on, replace the fuel module.
The ECM of computerized engine control system is equipped with a self-diagnostic system which detects
system failures or abnormalities. As a bulb and system check, "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light will glow
when ignition switch is turned to "ON" position and engine is not running. When engine is started, light should
go out. If not, a malfunction has been detected in the computerized engine control system or "SERVICE
ENGINE SOON" light circuit is faulty.
When a malfunction occurs, ECM will illuminate the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light located on instrument
panel. When malfunction is detected and light is turned on, a corresponding trouble code will be stored in ECM
memory. Malfunctions are recorded as "hard failures" or as "intermittent Failures".
"Hard Failures"
Hard failures cause "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light to glow and remain on until the malfunction is repaired.
If light comes on and remains on during vehicle operation, cause of malfunction must be determined using
diagnostic charts. If a sensor fails, ECM will use a substitute value in its calculations to continue engine
operation. In this condition, vehicle is driveable, but loss of good driveability will most likely be Encountered.
"Intermittent Failures"
Intermittent failures cause "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light to flicker or illuminate and go out about 10
seconds after the intermittent fault goes away. The corresponding trouble code, however, will be retained in
ECM memory. If related fault does not reoccur within 50 engine restarts, related trouble code will be erased
from ECM memory. Intermittent failures may be caused by sensor, connector or wiring related problems. See
INTERMITTENTS in appropriate TROUBLE SHOOTING or TESTING article in this section.
NOTE: Trouble codes will be recorded at various operating times. Some codes require
operation of that sensor or switch for 5 seconds. Others may require operation
for 5 minutes or longer under engine load.
CLUTCH
Clutch Hydraulic
DESCRIPTION
The hydraulic clutch consists of a clutch plate, pressure plate and a release bearing. Hydraulic clutch has a
master cylinder with a separate reservoir. Clutch pedal moves master cylinder push rod and a secondary
cylinder at the clutch housing moves clutch fork and release bearing.
TRANSMISSION APPLICATION
Vehicle Model Transmission Model
"C", "K" Series Muncie 85 MM 4 & 5-Speed
Muncie 117 MM 4-Speed
"M", "S" & "T" Series Warner 77 MM 5-Speed O/D
"R" & "V" Series Muncie 117 MM 4-Speed
NOTE: Never use fluid which has been used or bled from the system to fill reservoir.
1. Fill reservoir with clean DOT 3 brake fluid. Disconnect slave cylinder from bellhousing, leaving line
attached. Hold slave cylinder at a 45 degree angle with bleeder screw facing upward.
2. Have an assistant depress clutch pedal while opening bleeder screw. Close bleeder screw and release
pedal. Repeat sequence until all air is removed from system. Ensure master cylinder reservoir stays full
during bleeding process.
Check hoses for cracks, wear or other damage. Check hydraulic cylinders for loose mounting and signs of
leakage. Clutch pedal travel should be at least 8" (203 mm). Secondary push rod travel, at clutch fork, should be
at least 1" (25 mm). If necessary, bleed hydraulic system.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. On 2WD models, remove shift lever boot attaching screws and slide
boot up shift lever. Place transmission in Neutral and remove lever.
2. On 4WD models, remove center console, shift boot, boot bridge, and selector switch. On all models, raise
and support vehicle. Remove skid plate and disconnect vacuum harness.
3. On all models, remove drive shaft(s). Disconnect speedometer cable and wiring from transmission.
Remove clutch slave cylinder. Support transmission and remove transmission mount bolts.
4. Remove exhaust pipes, crossmember and any other components needed for clearance. Remove dust cover
bolts. Remove transmission mount bolts. Carefully remove transmission and transfer case (if equipped).
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Lightly coat input shaft splines with high-temperature grease.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove shift lever boot. Shift transmission in Neutral. Disconnect
shift control rods (if equipped). Remove shift lever.
2. Raise and support vehicle. Remove brake cable for clearance. Mark drive shaft for reassembly reference.
Remove drive shaft.
3. Disconnect speedometer cable and wiring from transmission. Disconnect exhaust pipe. Support
transmission. Remove support braces and skid plate (if equipped). Remove other components, as needed,
for clearance.
4. Remove clutch slave cylinder from transmission. Remove crossmember. Remove bolts holding
transmission to engine. Remove transmission from vehicle.
Installation
1. To install, reverse removal procedure. Lightly coat input shaft splines with high-temperature grease to aid
in reassembly.
2. Shift transmission into high gear. Install support braces. Tighten braces to clutch housing before
tightening to transmission. Install new seal on speedometer cable. Adjust shift linkage. Add transmission
lubricant.
Removal
1. Remove transmission. Remove slave cylinder from bellhousing. Remove screws and flywheel cover.
Remove bellhousing. Remove clutch fork and release bearing. Remove ball stud or clutch fork retainer if
worn or damaged.
2. Install clutch pilot in clutch disc during removal. Mark flywheel and pressure plate for reassembly
reference. Evenly loosen pressure plate bolts one or 2 turns at a time until clutch plate spring tension is
released. Remove clutch pilot, pressure plate and clutch disc.
Installation
1. Support clutch disc and pressure plate on flywheel with clutch pilot. Ensure reference marks are aligned.
Tighten bolts evenly to avoid distortion.
2. Remove pilot. Lubricate ball stud and fork fingers with high-temperature grease. Lubricate O.D. groove
and pack grease into I.D. recess of release bearing.
3. If clutch fork retainer is being replaced, install retainer so that fingers and tabs fit into release bearing
groove and retainer wraps around flat side of ball stud. See Fig. 1. Reverse removal procedure to
complete installation.
Removal
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove steering column covers or panel. On "C", "K", and "S" series,
remove A/C duct from lower left side of instrument panel.
2. On all models, disconnect push rod from clutch pedal. Disconnect reservoir hose at master cylinder.
Remove master cylinder retaining nuts. Remove master cylinder.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Bleed system. See BLEEDING HYDRAULIC CLUTCH SYSTEM
under SERVICE (IN VEHICLE) in this article.
Fig. 2: Exploded View of Clutch Master Cylinder
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
SLAVE CYLINDER
Raise and support vehicle. Disconnect and cap the hydraulic line at the slave cylinder. Remove the slave
cylinder. To install, reverse removal procedure. Bleed the hydraulic system. Refer to BLEEDING
HYDRAULIC CLUTCH SYSTEM under SERVICE (IN VEHICLE) in this article.
Fig. 3: Exploded View of Clutch Slave Cylinder
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
OVERHAUL
MASTER CYLINDER
1. Pull back dust cover and remove snap ring from cylinder. Extract push rod. Remove plunger and spring
assembly. Pull out reservoir adapter and adapter seal. See Fig. 2.
2. Remove spring from front of plunger. Remove seal support, front seal, and shim from plunger. Be careful
not to damage plunger surface. Clean all parts with clean brake fluid.
3. Ensure cylinder bore is smooth. Inspect bore for visible ridges or scores. Master cylinder must be
replaced if scored or damaged.
Reassembly
1. Lubricate seals and cylinder bore with clean brake fluid. Fit back seal into groove in plunger. Install front
seal on plunger with flat side against shim. Install seal support and spring.
2. Carefully install plunger assembly into bore. Depress plunger with push rod and seat snap ring in groove.
Lightly grease inside of dust boot and install. Put reservoir seal into master cylinder and press reservoir
into place.
SLAVE CYLINDER
1. Remove push rod and dust cover. Remove snap ring. Remove plunger and spring assembly from cylinder.
Remove seal from plunger. DO NOT damage plunger surface. See Fig. 3.
2. Clean all parts in clean brake fluid. Inspect cylinder bore for ridges or scratches. Bore must be smooth.
Replace cylinder if damaged.
Reassembly
Place seal in groove on plunger. Lubricate bore and seal with clean brake fluid. Slide spring and plunger
assembly into cylinder bore. Depress plunger far enough to install snap ring in groove. Lightly grease inside of
dust boot and install boot. Install push rod.
ADJUSTMENTS
The hydraulic clutch system is nonadjustable.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
"C", "K", "R" & "V" Series
Bellhousing-To-Engine Bolt 40 (54)
Bellhousing-To-Transmission Bolt 74 (100)
Clutch Pedal Stud 29 (39)
Cross Lever Ball Stud 20 (27)
Flywheel Bolt
Except 6.2L & 7.4L 75 (100)
6.2L & 7.4L 65 (90)
Master Cylinder Mounting Bolt 13 (18)
Pressure Plate Bolt
4.3L, 5.0L & 5.7L 22 (30)
6.2L & 6.5L 32 (43)
7.4L 24 (33)
Slave Cylinder Mounting Bolt 13 (18)
"M", "S" & "T" Series
Bellhousing-To-Engine Bolt 55 (75)
Bellhousing-To-Transmission Bolt 55 (75)
Clutch Pedal Bolt 26 (35)
Flywheel Bolt
2.5L (A/T) 55 (75)
2.5L (M/T) 65 (90)
2.8L 52 (70)
4.3L 75 (100)
Master Cylinder Mounting Bolt 13 (18)
Pressure Plate Bolt
"M" Series (4-Cylinder) 18 (25)
"M" Series (V6) 30 (40)
"S" & "T" Series 15 (20)
Slave Cylinder Mounting Bolt 13 (18)
ENGINE COOLING FAN - EXCEPT 7.4L
The system consists of a silicone filled coupling which connects fan to pulley. Fan drive is operated by a control
valve which is governed by temperature sensitive bi-metallic coil or strip. The control valve maintains flow of
silicone through drive.
When cooling air temperature is low, fan drive limits fan speed. High air temperature causes bi-metallic coil or
strip to allow greater flow of silicone to enter drive. This increases drag between driven member and driving
member, resulting in higher fan speed and increased cooling.
TESTING
Fan Noise
Normal fan noise is sometimes evident when the clutch is engaged for maximum cooling. Fan noise may also
be evident during the first few minutes after cold (over night) start-up. This noise will continue until the clutch
can re-distribute the silicone fluid back to its normal disengaged operation condition.
Fan clutch replacement is required if fan noise or excessive roar occurs continuously or if fan cannot be rotated
by hand. If a roughness is felt as fan is turned by hand, unit must be replaced.
Overheating
If fan and clutch assembly free-wheels with no drag (revolves more than 5 times when spun by hand), replace
the clutch.
Fan clutch operation is not affected by small fluid leaks which may occur in the area around the bearing
assembly. If excessive leakage appears, replace fan clutch.
COOLING SYSTEM SERVICING
DESCRIPTION
The basic liquid cooling system consists of a radiator, water pump, thermostat, cooling fan, radiator pressure
cap, heater, and various connecting hoses and cooling passages in the block and cylinder head.
MAINTENANCE
DRAINING
Remove radiator cap and open heater control valve to maximum heat position. Open radiator and engine block
drain plugs. In-line engines usually have one drain plug, located at left rear of cylinder block. On "V" type
engines, there are 2 drain plugs, one in each bank of cylinders.
CLEANING
A good cleaning solution removes most rust and scales. Follow manufacturer's directions in the use of cleaner.
If considerable rust and scale has to removed, cooling system should be flushed. Clean radiator air passages
with compressed air.
FLUSHING
CAUTION: Aluminum and plastic materials are used in radiators. Flushing solution
used must be compatible with aluminum.
1. Back flushing is an effective means of removing cooling system rust and scale. The radiator, engine and
heater must be flushed separately. In severe cases, the pressure flushing method may be used. Always
remove thermostat prior to pressure flushing. Do not back flush systems that have water shut-off valve in
heater system, damage to valve can result. Various types of flushing equipment are available. Follow
manufacturer's directions carefully.
2. To flush radiator, connect flushing gun to water outlet of radiator and disconnect water inlet hose. To
prevent flooding engine, attach a hose to radiator inlet. Use air in short bursts to prevent damage to
radiator. Continue flushing until water runs clear.
3. To flush engine, remove thermostat and replace housing. Connect flushing gun to water outlet of engine.
Flush system while using short air bursts until water runs clean. Flush heater core as described for
radiator. Ensure heater control valve is set to maximum heat position before flushing heater.
REFILLING
To prevent air from being trapped in engine block, engine should be running when refilling cooling system.
After system is full, continue running engine until thermostat is open, then recheck fill level. Do not overfill
system.
TESTING
THERMOSTAT
1. Visually inspect thermostat for corrosion and proper sealing of valve and seat. With thermostat at room
temperature, hold thermostat to a light. If light leaks around the thermostat valve, replace thermostat. On
some thermostats, slight leakage of light at one to 2 locations on the perimeter of valve may be detected.
This should be considered normal.
2. To heat test thermostat, immerse thermostat in a boiling solution of 50/50 mixture of coolant and water.
See Fig. 1.With solution heated to 221° F (100° C), a 192° F (89° C) thermostat should open 1/8" (3.2
mm).
Fig. 1: Testing Thermostat in Anti-Freeze/Water Solution
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
3. With solution heated to 221° F (105° C), a 197° F (92° C) thermostat should open 1/8" (3.2 mm). Replace
thermostat if not opening as specified.
PRESSURE TESTING
A pressure tester is used to check both radiator cap and complete cooling system. Test components as follows,
following tool manufacturer's instructions.
Radiator Cap
Visually inspect radiator cap, then dip cap into water and connect to tester. Pump tester to bring pressure to
upper limit of cap specification. See Fig. 2. If radiator cap fails to hold pressure, replace radiator cap.
Cooling System
With pressure tester, pressurize radiator to no more than 20 Lbs. If pressure drops, inspect for external leaks. If
no leaks are apparent, remove tester and run engine until normal operating temperature is reached. Reinstall
tester and observe. If after pumping tester, pressure builds up immediately, a possible leak exists from a faulty
head gasket or crack in cylinder head or block.
COOLING SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS
"G" Series
4.3L 11 Qts. (10.4L)
5.0L & 5.7L (5) 18 Qts. (17.0L)
ACCESSORIES & SAFETY EQUIPMENT General Motors Cruise Control Systems -Custom
Cruise III
DESCRIPTION
System consists of a multi-function control switch, electronic controller module, servo unit, vacuum reservoir,
speed sensor, vacuum supply, electrical and vacuum release switches, and electrical wire harness.
A vacuum operated servo unit is used to maintain desired speed. System controller module monitors vehicle
speed and servo position. Controller module operates vacuum and vent valves in servo to maintain or resume
desired speed. A low speed limiter (contained within control module) prevents system engagement below 25
MPH.
OPERATION
System operation is controlled by electronic controller module. The electronic controller module monitors
vehicle speed through speed sensor. It also monitors operation of multi-function control switch, located on end
of turn signal lever and servo position.
Electronic controller module responds to commands from control switch. Controller module controls servo
status by holding, increasing or releasing vacuum.
System can be disengaged by turning off cruise control switch or by activating brake or clutch (M/T) release
switches. A vacuum release valve controls servo vacuum release to atmosphere as either pedal is depressed.
Multi-function control switch controls on, off, set speed mode, resume last set speed mode, coast and accelerate
modes.
SET/COAST SWITCH
Set/coast switch is located on end of turn signal lever and has 2 positions, normal and depressed.
"SET" Mode
With vehicle speed at or above 25 MPH (cruise control switch in "ON" position), depress and release set/coast
switch. Vehicle speed will then be set.
"COAST" Mode
To decrease speed, depress and hold set/coast switch. When vehicle has slowed to desired speed, release switch
to set new speed.
Electronic controller module monitors servo position, mode control switches, and output of speed sensor. In
response to these input signals, controller module electrically signals opening and closing of vent and vacuum
solenoid valves in servo. Controller module is usually mounted on accelerator pedal bracket.
SERVO UNIT
Servo unit consists of an electrically operated vacuum diaphragm. See Fig. 1 . Along with a normally open
solenoid valve that vents diaphragm chamber to atmosphere, a normally closed solenoid valve that connects
diaphragm chamber to vacuum source, and a variable inductance position sensor.
SPEED SENSOR
Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) buffer amplifier supplies vehicle speed information to controller module. Optic
head portion of VSS is located in speedometer frame. A reflective blade is attached to speedometer cable/head
assembly.
As each blade enters LED light beam, causing a low power speed signal to be sent to buffer for signal
conditioning. This amplified signal is then sent to controller module.
Fig. 1: Servo Unit
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
These valves or valve/switches are mounted on brake and clutch pedal (M/T) brackets and are used to disengage
cruise control whenever clutch or brake pedals are activated.
If pedal is depressed, valve/switches disengage system electrically along with releasing servo vacuum. See Fig.
2 . Vacuum release valves, vent trapped vacuum in servo as pedal is depressed, to quickly return throttle to idle
position. See Fig. 2 .
Fig. 2: Vacuum Release Valve
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
ADJUSTMENTS
BRAKE/RELEASE SWITCH ADJUSTMENT
1. With brake pedal in fully released position, brake light plunger should be fully depressed against pedal
shank. Adjust switch by moving in or out. Make sure tubular clip is in brake pedal mounting bracket. See
Fig. 2 .
2. With brake pedal depressed, insert switch into tubular clip until switch body seats on clip. See Fig. 2 .
Audible clicks can be heard as threaded portion of switch is pushed through clip and toward brake pedal.
3. Pull brake pedal fully rearward against pedal stop until audible clicking sounds can no longer be heard.
Switch will be moved into tubular clip providing adjustment. Release brake pedal and repeat step 3), to
make sure that no audible clicking sounds remain.
Position switch slider forward on switch shaft. Fully depress clutch pedal to set switch.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
INOPERATIVE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Check power supply to electronic controller module terminals "G" and "A". Check for open ground circuits to
controller module terminals "J", "H" and servo terminal "C". Check for open leads at or to servo terminals "B"
and "D" (servo position sensor).
Check for open leads to or at servo terminals "A" and "E" (vent and vacuum circuits). Check for no high and
low voltage signals at module speed sender terminal "D". Check for incorrect input signals to SET/COAST
and/or RESUME/ACCELERATE terminals of controller module. Check for poor connections at control module
or defective controller module.
Check for lack of vacuum at small hose to servo. Inspect for mispositioned servo spring and/or rod. Check for
leaky servo, broken fittings and/or inoperative valves. Check for disconnected servo linkage. Inspect vacuum
release valve for leaks or defective hose.
VEHICLE SURGES
Electrical
Check for intermittent ground circuits to servo module and/or vehicle speed sensor. Check for intermittent
opens in servo position sensor leads, connections and/or terminals. Inspect for voltage surges on positive battery
line. Check for turn signal, radio or other electrical component interference. Ensure correct controller module
application. Make sure that all vacuum and vent electrical leads are correctly routed.
Mechanical
Check for excess slack in servo linkage. Ensure that servo spring is not sticking. Ensure vacuum release valve is
not misadjusted or leaking or hose to valve is not leaking. Check for excessively dry or overlubricated
speedometer cable. Make sure that speedometer cable is in good working order.
Check for restricted vacuum supply hose to accumulator or servo. Inspect for binding servo linkage. Check for
torque converter clutch cutting in and out or transmission shifting. Check for engine cutting in and out due to
mixture or ignition problems. Check that the 3-port or 2-port check valve is positioned properly.
Check vacuum hose routing for pinches, leaks or restrictions. Check servo linkage for excess slack and adjust as
described in this article. Check controller module part number to ensure that correct module is in place. Replace
controller module, if no system problem is found.
NO RESUME FUNCTION
Ensure that operator is operating system properly. Check for an open connection at terminal "A" of controller
module or that terminal is in wrong cavity. Check that controller module is correct one and is operating
properly. Inspect for improper operation of multi-function control switch.
Check system to make sure there are no bare, broken or disconnected wires or any pinched, damaged or
disconnected vacuum hoses. Servo and throttle linkage should operate freely and smoothly. Servo linkage
should be properly adjusted. If preliminary inspection does not reveal any problems, further testing is required.
1. Check throttle linkage to servo for adjustment. If not okay, adjust linkage. If adjustment is okay, check
electrical and vacuum connections for engagement. Check fuse.
2. If connections or fuse are not okay, repair or replace as necessary. If system is okay, perform SERVO
RESISTANCE TEST and SERVO VACUUM TEST.
3. If servo is okay, perform MULTI-FUNCTION CONTROL SWITCH TEST. If switch is not okay, adjust,
repair or replace as necessary. If switch is okay, perform CONTROLLER MODULE VOLTAGE
CHECK. If voltage check results are satisfactory, perform CONTROLLER MODULE RESISTANCE
CHECK. If resistance check results are okay, but system problems still remain, exchange controller
module with known good unit and retest system.
1. Turn ignition switch to "OFF" position. Disconnect servo connector and remove servo assembly. Servo
terminal pins are labeled by letters "A" through "E". See Fig. 3 .
2. With an ohmmeter, probe terminal pins "D" to "B" of servo. Resistance should be 15-25 ohms. If
resistance is not within specifications, replace servo. If resistance is between 15-25 ohms, go to next step.
3. Probe terminal pins "A" to "C" of servo. Resistance should be 30-55 ohms. If resistance is not within
specification, replace servo. If resistance is 30-55 ohms go to next step.
4. Connect leads between terminal pins "E" and "C" of servo. Resistance should be 30-55 ohms. If
resistance is not within specification, replace servo. If resistance is 30-55 ohms, proceed to SERVO
VACUUM TEST procedure.
Fig. 3: Servo Resistance Test
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Disconnect linkage from servo to throttle and electrical connector to servo. Start engine and let idle or
apply vacuum to servo vacuum port. Manually actuate servo vent and vacuum control valves by
connecting jumper wires from battery positive post to pins "A" and "E" on servo assembly.
2. Connect another jumper wire between pin "C" of servo and ground. With brake and clutch pedal (M/T) in
free position, servo should fully pull in. If servo fails to pull in, check vacuum supply to servo.
3. If servo pulls in, remove jumper wire from pin "E" on servo. Servo should stay in position. If servo stays
in position, proceed to step 5). If servo fails to remain in position, disconnect vacuum brake release at
servo and plug.
4. Momentarily reconnect jumper wire to pin "E" until servo fully pulls in, then remove jumper wire. If
servo stays in position, adjust or replace vacuum release valve.
5. Turn ignition switch to "ON" position. Vacuum release valve should engage. Turn ignition switch to
"OFF" position and disconnect vacuum valve connector at valve. Turn ignition switch to "ON" position.
With properly adjusted vacuum release switch, battery voltage should be present across connector
terminals. No battery voltage indicates an open circuit.
Using a volt/ohmmeter, test cruise switch at connector terminals mounted on steering column. See Fig. 4 .
1. With controller module connected, ignition switch in "ON" position, and slider switch in "OFF" position,
probe terminal "G" with a voltmeter. With brake/clutch switch not depressed, reading should be 12 volts.
With brake/clutch switch depressed, reading should be zero volts.
2. Probe terminal "A" with slider switch in "ON" position. Reading should be 12 volts. With slider switch in
"OFF" position, reading should be zero volts.
3. Probe terminal "M" with slider switch in "R/A" position. Reading should be 12 volts. With slider switch
in "ON" position and set/coast button depressed, reading should be zero volts. With slider switch in
"OFF" position and set/coast button depressed, reading should be zero volts.
4. Probe terminal "L" with slider switch in "ON" position and set/coast button depressed. Reading should be
12 volts. With slider switch in "ON" position and set/coast button not depressed, reading should be zero
volts. With slider switch "OFF" and set/coast button not depressed, reading should be zero volts.
5. If vehicle is equipped with a cruise control lamp, probe terminal "B" with slider switch in "ON" position
and set/coast button depressed. Reading should be 12 volts.
6. If vehicle is equipped with a speed sensor, probe terminal "D". Raise and support vehicle. Rotate drive
wheels and note voltage output. Voltage should read between 0-4 volts. If not, repair or replace speed
sensor.
1. With controller module disconnected and servo connected, probe terminal "C" to ground with ohmmeter.
Reading should be 30-55 ohms. With servo disconnected probe terminal "C" to ground. Reading should
be infinity (open circuit).
2. With servo connected, probe terminals "F" to "H". Reading should be 15-25 ohms. With servo
disconnected, probe terminal "F" to ground. Reading should be infinity (open circuit). With servo
disconnected, probe terminal "H" to ground. Reading should be infinity (open circuit).
3. With servo connected, probe terminal "K" to ground. Reading should be 30-55 ohms. With servo
disconnected, probe terminal "K" to ground. Reading should be infinity (open circuit).
4. With servo connected or disconnected, probe terminal "J" to ground. Reading should be infinity (open
circuit).
WIRING DIAGRAMS
For wiring diagrams, refer to appropriate chassis wiring diagram in WIRING DIAGRAMS section.
DEFOGGER - REAR WINDOW
DESCRIPTION
The heated rear window defogger consists of a heating element grid bonded to inside surface of rear glass. The
system uses an instrument panel mounted switch to operate system for 5-10 minutes. The defogger operates on
12 volts. Current enters on left side of heating element and is grounded on right side of cab.
TESTING
SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS
Check for blown fuse or defective defogger switch. Replace components as necessary. Check for open circuits.
To do so, check for voltage at left grid connection. If voltage is present, check ground circuit. If voltage is not
present, find open in harness between switch and grid.
Check for blown fuse or defective defogger switch. Replace components as necessary.
1. Start engine and turn defogger system on. Ground test light and lightly probe each grid line. Move test
light from feed wire side of grid to ground side. See Fig. 1 .
2. Test light should gradually dim as it is moved across grid. Be sure to check each grid in at least 2 places
to avoid the possibility of bridging a gap.
3. If test light shows full brilliance at both ends of grid, check for loose ground wire contact at cab body. If
test light goes out as it is moved across grid, a break has been detected. Use a grease pencil to mark break
(s) on outside side of window.
Fig. 1: Rear Window Defogger Grid Test
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
4. To repair grid, turn system off and disconnect negative battery cable. Clean area to be repaired with steel
wool. Wipe area clean with denatured alcohol. Be sure to clean 1/4" (6 mm) beyond each side of break.
5. With glass at room temperature of 70-90°F (20-32°C), position repair template over area to be repaired.
Apply grid repair material to grid and remove template. Allow repair area to air dry for at least 24 hours.
6. Test defogger operation to verify repair. If repair appears discolored, apply a coating of tincture of iodine.
Allow iodine to dry for 30 seconds and carefully wipe off excess.
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove screws from instrument cluster bezel. Disconnect wiring harness
from switch. Depress lock tabs and remove switch. To install, reverse removal procedure.
"S" Series
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove screw from bottom of switch trim plate. Remove switch trim plate
from instrument panel. Disconnect wiring harness from switch. Remove switch from switch trim plate. To
install, reverse removal procedure.
WIRING DIAGRAMS
For wiring diagrams, see appropriate wiring diagram in the WIRING DIAGRAMS section.
DIFFERENTIAL - LOCKING
DESCRIPTION
ONE-PIECE CASE
Eaton one-piece case locking differential is a 2-pinion type with a clutch disc pack behind each side gear. The
unit also utilizes a speed-sensitive device which automatically locks both rear wheels if either wheel should spin
excessively during slow vehicle operation.
TWO-PIECE CASE
Eaton two-piece locking differential is a 3-pinion type with clutch disc packs behind both side gears. The unit
also utilizes a speed-sensitive device which automatically locks both rear wheels if either wheel should spin
excessively during slow vehicle operation.
NOTE: Some components may not be used with all ring gears.
TESTING
1. Raise vehicle so both rear wheels can be rotated freely by hand. With one wheel stationary, rotate other
wheel about 1/2 turn every second. Wheel should rotate freely. If both wheels turn, or try to turn,
differential is defective.
2. Raise vehicle and have assistant in vehicle start engine. Allow it to idle at 600-800 RPM. If equipped with
A/T, place transmission in Drive and apply brakes. If equipped with M/T, depress clutch and place
transmission in first gear. Pull on one parking brake cable from under vehicle to lock one rear wheel.
3. With engine idling, on A/T models, slowly release brake. On M/T models, slowly release clutch. Locked
rear wheel should remain stationary and free wheel should rotate slowly. As free wheel speed increases,
differential should lock, causing both wheels to rotate or stop. If equipped with M/T, engine may stall.
4. It may be necessary to accelerate to 10 MPH to lock differential. If speed increases beyond 20 MPH
without locking differential, unit is defective. Lock opposite wheel and repeat test.
Differential
1. On 9 1/2" ring gears, remove stop pin. On all models, use Governor Remover (J-26252) and remove
governor bushing. Remove "C" clips which hold latching bracket in position on bracket shaft. Move
bracket down shaft.
2. Using same tool, remove latching bracket bushing. Remove latching bracket, shaft and spring from case.
Remove governor assembly from case. Remove lock screw, pinion shaft, differential pinion gears and
pinion thrust washers. Rotate one side gear and roll gears out of case.
3. Remove thrust block, right side gear, right disc pack and side thrust washer. Remove left side gear, cam
plate and disc pack as a unit. Remove thrust washer.
Remove snap ring, clutch plates, guide clips and wave spring. Remove cam plate and cam side gear.
Measure and record overall length of gear assembly from front of gear to back of thrust sleeve, including side
gear washer. Using Bearing Remover (J-22912-01), remove thrust sleeve. Press sleeve from side gear. Remove
lock plates, guide clips, wave spring, cam plate and cam side gear.
INSPECTION
Clean all parts in solvent. Inspect all bearings, gear teeth and clutch plates and discs for signs of wear or
overheating. If reaction block or flange shims must be replaced, replace with components of identical size.
If cam gear, right side gear or thrust block have to be replaced, differential must be adjusted. Selective thickness
thrust washers behind each side gear, and a selective thickness thrust block between the side gears provide
adjustment. The 3 adjustments to be made are:
1. Install cam unit and thrust washer to flange end of case. Install pinion gears and thrust washer into
differential. Ensure they are aligned with pinion shaft hole. Press down at side gear and install pinion
shaft and lock screw. If side gear cannot be pressed down enough to install pinion shaft, replace thrust
washer with one that is thinner.
2. Rotate pinion gear closest to lock screw so one tooth is pointing down. Insert a screwdriver firmly
between side gear and pinion shaft. Install a dial indicator to ring gear flange. Position stem of dial
indicator on one tooth of pinion gear closest to lock screw.
3. Pull pinion gear into its seat. Rotate gear and record reading. Repeat step for opposite gear. Backlash
should be .010-.018" (.254-.457 mm). Use thrust washers to correct.
1. Alternately assemble lock plates. Use grease to hold clips in place. Install thrust washer, lock plate
assembly and right side gear to differential. Install pinion gears and thrust washers. Ensure they are
aligned with pinion shaft hole.
2. Press down side gear and install pinion shaft and lock screw. If side gear cannot be pressed down enough,
replace thrust washer. Rotate pinion gear closest to lock screw so one tooth is pointing down.
3. Insert a screwdriver between side gear and pinion shaft. Follow procedure under LEFT SIDE GEAR
BACKLASH to determine gear backlash. Backlash should be .002-.010" (.051-.254 mm). Use thrust
washers to correct.
1. Install left thrust washer, cam unit, right thrust washer and lock plates. Install right side gear, pinion shaft
and lock screw. Insert a screwdriver firmly between each side gear and pinion shaft. Install a 1-2"
telescoping gauge between side gear faces, not gear teeth. Measure side gear spread.
2. Remove telescoping gauge and measure with a micrometer. Measure original thrust block at outer corner
with a micrometer. If thrust block thickness is not 0-.006" (0-.15 mm) less than side gear spread, adjust
clearance.
3. Select a new thrust block the correct size to obtain correct clearance. Reshim right clutch disc pack.
Backlash must remain .002-.010" (.051-.243 mm).
1. Install cam plate to cam side gear. Install wave spring. Install clutch plates. Ensure clutch plates are
alternated upon installation. Install and press thrust sleeve until flush with side gear disc splines.
2. Install guide clips to plates, using grease to hold in place. If side gear or thrust sleeve were replaced,
measure and record overall length of gear assembly from front of gear to back of thrust sleeve. Include
side gear washer during measurement.
3. Compare measurement with that taken during disassembly. If new reading is more than .003" (.07 mm)
greater or less than original, new thrust washer must be installed.
Install cam plate to cam side gear. Install wave spring. Install 8 clutch plates for 7 1/2-7 5/8" units and 10 clutch
plates for 8 1/2" units. Ensure plates are alternated upon installation. See Fig. 1 . Install snap ring. Install guide
clips to plates, using grease to hold in place.
Differential
1. Place axle shaft in vise in vertical position. Mount differential case over end of axle shaft, engaging spline
of side gear with shaft. Grease 2 pinion gear thrust washers, and install left washer in its proper position.
Install cam unit and right thrust washer.
2. Assemble 2 splined discs and 3 eared discs alternately onto bell end gear hub. Begin and end with eared
disc. Install clutch pack guide clips on ears of bell end clutch pack.
3. Install right pinion gear through opening in case. Install thrust block, thrust washers and pinion gear.
Install pinion gears 180 degrees apart. Rotate gears and thrust block into position. Ensure open side of
thrust block faces small window opening.
4. Install pinion shaft and lock screw. Place governor assembly and latching bracket into case. Place straight
end of latching bracket spring over and to outside of engagement shaft to preload latching bracket against
governor assembly. Latching bracket bushing has tapered hole. Governor assembly bushing has straight
hole.
5. Press governor bushing in case, making sure shaft end play is .004-.020" (.10-.51 mm). Press latching
bracket bushing into case so end play is removed. Press stop pin flush with case. Install ring gear and side
bearings on differential.
1. With differential removed from housing, remove ring gear and side bearings. Remove 3 screws from
front face of ring gear flange. Place differential on right side case half.
2. Using a screwdriver, gently pry case halves apart at yoke hole locations. Remove left side case half. Hold
thumb against inside of gear hub when separating case halves. This will prevent side gear from falling
out.
3. Remove governor assembly, latching bracket assembly, left side gear, left side clutch pack and guide
clips. Remove left thrust washer, reaction blocks, pinion yoke, pinion gears and pinion thrust washers.
4. Remove right cam unit. Remove thrust washer and measure and record length of gear assembly from
front of gear to back of thrust sleeve, including side gear thrust washer. See Fig. 3 .
5. Using Rear Pinion Bearing Cone Remover (J 22912-01), press sleeve from side gear. Remove clutch
plates, guide clips, wave spring, cam plate and cam side gear.
INSPECTION
Clean all components in solvent. Inspect all bearings and gear teeth for excessive wear or damage. Inspect
clutch plates and discs for overheating. If reaction blocks or flanges must be replaced, measure thickness of
original components and replace with components of same size.
If cam gear, right side gear or thrust block have to be replaced, differential must be adjusted. Selective thickness
thrust washers behind each side gear, and a selective thickness thrust block between the side gears provide
adjustment. The 3 adjustments to be made are:
Cam Unit
1. Install cam plate to cam side gear. Install wave spring and clutch plates. Ensure clutch plates are installed
in correct order. See Fig. 2 . Install thrust sleeve and press flush with side gear disc spline. Install guide
clips to plates. Use grease to hold clips in place.
2. If side gear or thrust sleeve were replaced, measure and record overall length of gear to back of thrust
sleeve. Include side gear thrust washer during measurement and compare with measurement obtained
earlier. If new measurement is .003" (.07 mm) greater or less than original, new thrust washer must be
installed.
Fig. 2: Cam Unit Assembly
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Install cam unit and thrust washer to right case half. Clamp cam unit in place using a set of washers, nut
and bolt long enough to hold cam unit in place. Install pinion gears and thrust washers on pinion yoke.
Install yoke firmly to differential case half. Loosen nut and position one pinion gear tooth down. Tighten
nut.
2. Mount a dial indicator with a magnetic base on case half. Place stem of dial indicator on pinion gear
tooth. Pull pinion gear firmly into its seat, and move gear back and forth. Note and record reading. DO
NOT unseat pinion yoke as this will make reading inaccurate. Repeat step for other 2 pinions.
3. Backlash should be between .010-.018" (.254-.457 mm). If backlash is too high, use a thicker thrust
washer. If backlash is too low, use a thinner thrust washer.
1. Assemble lock plates alternately. Install guide clips to plates, using grease to hold in place. Install thrust
washer, lock plate assembly and left side gear to differential. Clamp side gear in place using washers, nut,
and a bolt long enough to hold side gear in place.
2. Place pinion gears and thrust washers on pinion yoke. Install yoke firmly to differential case half. Loosen
nut, and position one pinion gear tooth down. Tighten nut.
3. Install a magnetic base dial indicator on case half. Position stem of dial indicator on pinion gear tooth.
Pull pinion gear firmly into its seat. Rotate gear back and forth while recording reading. DO NOT unseat
pinion yoke as backlash reading will be inaccurate. Repeat procedure for other 2 pinions.
4. Backlash should be between .002-.010" (.051-.254 mm). If backlash is too high, install a thicker thrust
washer. If backlash is too low, install a thinner thrust washer.
Reaction Block
1. Install left thrust washer, right thrust washer, side gear and cam assembly. Measure distance from side
gear face to case half face. Thickness of straightedge must be subtracted from this measurement. Add
measurement of both sides together. This is side gear spread. Measure thickness of original reaction
blocks together.
2. If reaction block thickness is not 0-.006" (0-.15 mm) less than side gear spread, adjust clearance by using
reaction blocks of the correct thickness or reshimming left clutch pack. Backlash must remain .002-
.010" (.051-.254 mm).
Differential
1. Install right thrust washer and right cam unit. Install reaction blocks, pinion yoke, pinion gears and pinion
thrust washers. Install left thrust washer. Insure plates are assembled in proper order. Install left side gear
and latching bracket assembly.
2. Install governor assembly. Ensure straight end of latching bracket spring is over and outside governor
assembly shaft. Hold side gear in left side case and install case halfs together. Install screws, ring gear
and differential side bearings.
Fig. 3: Exploded View of Eaton Two-Piece Case Locking Differential
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
GENERAL INFORMATION
DOMESTIC CARS
CHRYSLER GROUP LLC
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
GENERAL MOTORS
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
GENERAL MOTORS
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
AUDI
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
BENTLEY
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
BMW
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
BMW - IMPORTED CARS & TRUCKS
Application Connector Location
Z3 Behind Cover, On Right Side Of Center
Console
Z4 & Z8 Under Left Side Of Dash, Left Of Steering
Column, Behind Cover
318 & 325
1991 On Bracket, Above Thermostat Housing
1992-95 On Right Rear Of Engine Compartment
1996 Under Left Side Of Dash, Behind Panel
Labeled OBD
330 Behind Cover, Under Left Side of Dash
Above Hood & Trunk Releases
524t On Top Rear Of Engine
525i & 535i
1990-91 (Black 20-Pin Connector) Left Rear Corner Of Engine Compartment
1992-95 Outside Of Engine Compartment
Fuse/Relay Block
528e On Intake Manifold Bracket, Behind
Thermostat Housing
635CSi On Bracket, Next To Fuse/Relay Block
735i
1986-87 On Bracket, On Top Of Engine
1988-92 On Right Side Of Engine Compartment,
On Shock Tower
740 & 750 Under Left Side Of Dash, Behind Panel
Labeled OBD
740i & 740iL (1993-01) Behind Cover On Lower Left Corner Of A/C
Control Panel
745Li In Left Side Kickpanel, Behind Cover
Labeled OBD
750iL Behind Cover On Lower Left Corner Of A/C
Control Panel
DAIHATSU
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
FERRARI
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
GENERAL MOTORS
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
GENERAL MOTORS & GEO - IMPORTED CARS & TRUCKS
Application Connector Location
LeMans Behind Right Kick Panel, Above ECM
Metro
1989-95 Under Left Side Of Dash, Near Fuse
Block
1996 Under Right Side Of Dash, Near
Center Console
1997-01 Under Left Side Of Dash
Prizm & Prizm LSi
1989-95 On Left Front Strut Tower
1996-02 Under Left Side Of Dash
Spectrum Under Right Side Of Dash, Above A/C-
Heater Blower Motor
Sprint On Left Front Shock Tower, Near
Battery
Storm
1990-91 Behind Right Side Of Dash, Above
A/C-Heater Blower Motor
1992-93 Behind Right Kick Panel
Tracker
1989-95 Under Left Side Of Dash, Near Fuse
Block
1996 In Engine Compartment, Near MAP
Sensor
1997- Under Left Side Of Dash
HONDA
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
HYUNDAI
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
INFINITI
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
ISUZU
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
JAGUAR
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
KIA
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
LAND ROVER
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
LEXUS
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
MAZDA
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
MERCEDES-BENZ
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
MERCEDES-BENZ - IMPORTED CARS & TRUCKS
Application Connector Location
C-Class (1994) On Right Rear Of Engine Compartment
E-Class
1994-97 On Right Rear Of Engine
Compartment
G-Class Under Left Side Of Dash, Behind Cover
ML-Class Under Left Side Of Dash, Behind Cover
S-Class
140 Platform (1994-99) On Right Rear Of Engine
Compartment
190 Series
1986-87 On Left Rear Of Engine Compartment
1988-93
All Models In Engine Compartment, On Left
Front Fender
California (OBD) On Right Side Of Firewall, Near
Battery
1994 On Right Rear Of Engine
Compartment
260E
1987 On Left Front Fender Apron, Next To
Ignition Control Module
1988-89
All Models In Engine Compartment, On Left
Front Fender
California (OBD) On Right Side Of Firewall, Near
Battery
300 Series
1986-87 On Left Front Fender Apron, Next To
Ignition Control Module
1988-92
All Models In Engine Compartment, On Left
Front Fender
California (OBD) On Right Side Of Firewall, Near
Battery
1993
Except 300E Left Fender Apron
300E Right Rear Corner Of Engine
Compartment
1994-95 (All Models) On Right Rear Of Engine
Compartment
400 & 500 Series
1993
12-Pin Connector On Rear Of Left Front Inner Fender
Panel
38-Pin (Impulse Readout) In Module Box, On Right Rear Of
Engine Compartment
1994-95 On Right Rear Of Engine
Compartment
420SEL & 560 Series (Except 2.2L)
1986-89
All Models In Engine Compartment, On Left
Front Fender
California (OBD) On Right Side Of Firewall, Near
Battery
1990-91 In Engine Compartment, On Left Front
Fender
560 Series (2.2L) On Lower Left Side Of Engine Connector
MITSUBISHI
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
PEUGEOT
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
PORSCHE
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
RENAULT
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
ROLLS-ROYCE
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
SAAB
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
SUBARU
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
SUZUKI
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
TOYOTA
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
VOLKSWAGEN
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
VOLVO
NOTE: This table provides a quick reference for self-diagnostic connector locations,
when available from manufacturer, that ARE NOT located at the lower left side
of the dash, as mandated in 1996 by the Federal government.
DESCRIPTION
The electric door lock system consists of a lock actuator assembly at each door, switches and a relay on some
models. All doors lock and unlock from door switches. All components are serviced as complete assemblies.
The motor is a permanent magnet, 12-volt reversible type that is protected by an internal circuit breaker.
Reverse motor operation is obtained by reversing electrical polarity. Electrical polarity is controlled by door
switch operation.
The relay assembly is a double-pull, double-throw relay externally grounded to body. Relay is not used on the
"S" series. Ground on the "S" series is controlled through the left door switch.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
ONE DOOR LOCK INOPERATIVE
1. Using test light, check for voltage at door lock motor. If voltage does not exist, check for voltage at
connector. Check for open circuit between connector and relay if voltage is not available at connector.
2. If voltage exists, check for open ground circuit between door lock motor and relay. Position door switch
in "LOCK" position. Check for voltage. Repair open circuit between door lock motor and relay if no
voltage exists.
1. Check for voltage at fuse block. If voltage exists, check for voltage at relay. Check for open circuit if
voltage exists at fuse block but not at relay.
2. If voltage exists at relay, hold door switch in "LOCK" position. Check for voltage. Check harness for
open circuit if voltage does not exist. Check for faulty ground on relay if voltage exists.
3. Check relay coil for conduction if ground is secure. Check for voltage on Tan wire if relay coil
conduction is good. Replace relay if voltage does not exist. Check harness for open circuit if voltage
exists.
1. Check for voltage at door switch. Check for open circuit between door lock switch and fuse block if no
voltage exists.
2. If voltage exists, move door switch to "LOCK" position. Check for voltage at door switch. Replace door
switch if no voltage exists.
WIRING DIAGRAMS
For wiring diagrams, refer to appropriate chassis wiring diagram in WIRING DIAGRAM section.
DRIVE AXLE - 7.5", 7.625", 8.5" & 9.5"
DESCRIPTION
NOTE: General Motors 8 1/2" ring gear drive axle is also used as front drive axle on
K10/20 models. These models may also be equipped with a Dana front drive
axle. See the DRIVE AXLE RATIO IDENTIFICATION article in this section.
Axle assembly is hypoid gear type with integral carrier housing. It is used on Light Duty emission vehicles with
semi-floating axles. Pinion bearing preload is made with a collapsible spacer. Differential side bearing preload
adjustment and drive pinion depth adjustment are made by shims.
A removable housing cover permits inspection and minor servicing of differential without removing axle from
vehicle. Service procedures are same for all assemblies, except for torque specifications and special tool
numbers.
Removal
1. Raise vehicle. Support with jack stands. Remove wheels and brake drums. Loosen differential cover
bolts, but do not remove. Place drain pan below cover. Break cover loose and catch lubricant in drain pan.
Remove differential cover bolts and remove cover.
2. Remove differential pinion shaft lock bolt. On axles without locking differential, remove differential
pinion shaft. Push flanged end of axle shaft toward center of vehicle. Remove "C" lock from button end
of axle shaft.
3. Remove axle shaft from axle housing, being careful not to damage seal. Repeat procedure for other side.
See Fig. 1 .
Fig. 1: Positioning Case for Axle Removal
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
4. On axles with locking differential, partially remove pinion shaft. Rotate differential case until pinion shaft
touches edge of housing. Reach into case with screwdriver and rotate "C" lock until its open end points
directly inward. When "C" lock is correctly positioned, axle shaft can be pushed inward, allowing "C"
lock to be removed. Remove axle shaft. See Fig. 2 .
NOTE: DO NOT hammer on axle shaft. It should slide easily when "C" lock is
correctly positioned. When removing axle shaft on 9 1/2" ring gear axle, be
sure thrust washer in differential case does not slip out.
5. With axle shaft removed, insert Bearing Remover (J-22813-01 for 7 1/2" and 7 5/8", J-23689 for 8 1/2",
J-29712 for 9 1/2" ring gear) into axle housing behind bearing. Attach Slide Hammer (J-2619) and
Adapter (J-2619-4 for 7 1/2" and 7 5/8" ring gear, J-2619-01 for 8 1/2" and 9 1/2" ring gear) to bearing
remover and remove axle bearing and axle seal.
Fig. 2: Locking Differential "C" Lock Removal
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Installation
1. To install, reverse removal procedure. Using Bearing Installer (J-34974 for 7 1/2" and 7 5/8", J-23690 for
8 1/2" and J-29709 for 9 1/2" ring gear), install axle shaft housing bearing until bearing installer bottoms
against housing shoulder.
2. Using Seal Installer (J-33782 for 7 1/2" and 7 5/8", J-21128 for 8 1/2" and J-29713 for 9 1/2" ring gear),
install axle shaft housing seal until flush with outer edge of axle tube. After installing axle shaft and "C"
lock, pull axle shaft outward so "C" lock seats in side gear counterbore. Install pinion shaft and pinion
shaft lock bolt.
Removal
1. Raise vehicle and allow axle assembly to hang free. Disconnect universal joint and secure bearing caps.
Tie drive shaft out of way.
2. Rotate pinion shaft through several revolutions, using an INCH lb. torque wrench. Note and record pinion
bearing preload. Mark relationship of pinion flange and shaft for reassembly. Count number of exposed
threads on pinion shaft.
3. Hold flange with Companion Flange Holder (J-8614-01) and remove self-locking nut. Using Pinion
Flange Remover (J-8614-1, 2 and 3 for 7 1/2" and 7 5/8", and J-8614-01 for 8 1/2" and 9 1/2" ring gear),
remove pinion flange. Pry pinion seal from housing.
NOTE: Be careful, not to damage differential carrier when removing pinion seal.
Installation
1. Inspect pinion flange oil seal surface, drive splines, ears and bearing contact surface. Replace pinion
flange (if necessary). Pack seal lip cavity with lithium base extreme pressure lubricant. Place pinion seal
in bore.
2. Using Seal Installer (J-23911 for 7 1/2" and 7 5/8" ring gear), Gauge Plate (J-22804-1 for 9 1/2" ring
gear) and Seal Installer (J-22388 for 8 1/2" and 9 1/2" ring gear), drive pinion seal into place.
3. Make sure seal is square in carrier. Pack cavity between end of pinion splines and pinion flange with a
non-hardening sealer. Using Companion Flange Holder (J-8614-01), install flange on pinion shaft.
4. Install washer and nut in original position, taking note of scribe marks and number of exposed threads.
Measure pinion preload. Tighten nut in small increments, until preload exceeds original figure by 3-5
INCH lbs. (.3-.6 N.m). Install drive shaft and lower vehicle.
NOTE: DO NOT hammer flange onto pinion shaft, as ring gear and pinion will be
damaged.
AXLE ASSEMBLY
Removal
1. Raise vehicle. Using jack stands, support vehicle at frame. Allow differential to hang free. Drain
lubricant. Remove rear wheels and brake drums. Remove parking brake cable. Disconnect drive shaft and
brake lines. Disconnect vent hose from vent fitting at axle housing. Support axle housing with floor jack
under center of carrier. Disconnect shock absorbers at axle housing.
2. Disconnect height sensing and brake proportional valve linkage (if equipped). Remove stabilizer shaft (if
equipped). Remove "U" bolt nuts, washers, spacers and spring plates from axle assembly. Slowly lower
floor jack. Remove axle assembly from vehicle.
Installation
OVERHAUL
DISASSEMBLY
NOTE: Check and record ring gear backlash and pinion bearing preload before
disassembly.
1. Remove axle shafts as previously described. Roll out differential pinions and thrust washers. Mark
pinions and thrust washers (left and right) for reassembly. Remove side gears and thrust washers. Mark
side gears and thrust washers (left and right) for reassembly.
2. Mark differential bearing caps and housing for reassembly. Loosen bearing cap bolts, and tap bearing cap
surfaces to loosen caps. Using pry bar inserted in differential carrier, pry against housing at differential
window to remove carrier.
NOTE: Be careful, as carrier bearings are preloaded. Carrier will fall free after
being pried past a certain point.
3. After removing carrier, place shims with appropriate bearing cups. Install bearing caps onto housing in
their original position before removal. Using Differential Side Bearing Remover (J-22888) and Adaptor
(J-8107-2) for 7 1/2" and 7 5/8" ring gears, (J-8107-4) for 8 1/2" and (J-8107-3) for 9 1/2" ring gear,
remove differential side bearings.
4. Remove ring gear bolts. Tap ring gear off carrier using a soft drift and hammer. Using an INCH lb. torque
wrench, check torque required to rotate drive pinion. If no preload reading is obtained, check for
looseness of pinion assembly. Looseness indicates pinion bearings should be replaced.
5. Install Companion Flange Holder (J-8614-01) on flange with holder notches toward flange. Remove
pinion nut and washer, and remove flange. Install pinion nut halfway on pinion. Install differential cover
using 2 bolts. Tap end of pinion (using soft drift and hammer) to remove pinion.
NOTE: DO NOT damage pinion bearings when removing pinion from differential
housing.
6. Remove differential cover and pinion assembly. Remove pinion oil seal and front bearing from housing.
Remove collapsible spacer from pinion. Remove inner bearing and shim from pinion. Using Bearing
Remover (J-25320 for 7 1/2" and 7 5/8" ring gear, J-8612-B for 8 1/2" ring gear and J-22912-01 on 9 1/2"
ring gear), press bearing from pinion.
7. Remove bearing cups from axle housing using hammer and punch using slots for this purpose. Inspect
bearings and bearing cups, and replace them as required. Discard oil seal, pinion nut and collapsible
spacer.
Clean all parts in cleaning solvent. Inspect all bearings, bearing cups, races and rollers for chipping or excessive
wear. Inspect axle shaft, ring gear and pinion for scoring, cracking or chipping. Inspect differential case, pinion
side gears, thrust washers and pinion shaft for cracks or excessive wear.
Install ring gear squarely onto case. Tighten ring gear bolts evenly and alternately to specification. Install side
gears, differential pinions and thrust washers into case. Install differential pinion shaft and lock screw. Tighten
lock screw to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table.
1. Drive pinion rear bearing shim thickness must be determined whenever a new axle housing, ring and
pinion set, or pinion bearings are installed. Shim pack thickness is determined by using Pinion Setting
Gauge Set (J-21777).
2. If removed, install pinion bearing cups into housing. Place lubricated pinion bearings into cups. Position
Gauging Plate (J-23597-11 for 7 1/2" and 7 5/8", J-21777-29 for 8 1/2" and J-21777-85 for 9 1/2" ring
gear) and rear pinion bearing pilot on preloaded stud.
3. Install through rear pinion bearing, front pinion bearings and Bearing Disc (J-21777-42). Tighten hex nut
until snug. Rotate bearings to insure proper seating. Hold preload stud stationary with a wrench on flats.
Tighten hex nut until 20 INCH lbs. (2.2 N.m) are required to rotate bearings. See Fig. 3 .
Fig. 3: Sectional View of Pinion Setting Gauge Set
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
4. Mount side bearing Gauging Discs (J-21777-45) for 7 1/2", 7 5/8" and 8 1/2" or (J-21777-86) for 9 1/2"
ring gear on ends of arbor. Place arbor into carrier making sure discs are properly seated. Install side
bearing caps and bolts. Tighten bolts to avoid movement.
5. Position dial indicator on mounting post of arbor, with contact button resting on top surface of plunger.
Set dial indicator at zero. Push indicator down on indicator shaft until needle rotates 3/4 revolution to
right, then tighten in this position.
6. Preload dial indicator 1/2 revolution, then tighten in this position. Place plunger onto gauging area of
gauge plate. Rock plunger rod slowly back and forth across gauging area until dial indicator reads
greatest deflection.
7. Set indicator to zero. Repeat rocking action several times to verify setting. Once zero reading is obtained,
swing plunger until it is removed from gauging area.
8. Dial indicator will now read required pinion shim thickness for a nominal pinion. Record this reading.
Check drive pinion for painted or stamped markings on pinion stems, or for a stamped code number on
small end of pinion gear.
9. If marking is a plus (+), add that many thousandths of an inch from indicator reading. If marking is a
minus (-), subtract that many thousandths of an inch from indicator reading. This will then be required
thickness of rear pinion bearing shim pack.
NOTE: If no markings are found on pinion, use dial indicator reading as shim
thickness.
10. Remove bearing caps and gauging tool from housing. Place selected shim pack on pinion gear. Using a
press, install lubricated pinion bearing onto pinion shaft.
11. Install a new collapsible spacer over pinion gear shaft. Position pinion assembly in housing. While
holding pinion forward, carefully drive front pinion bearing onto pinion gear shaft until a few threads are
exposed.
12. Install seal, pinion flange, washer and nut. Tighten nut until all end play is removed. Rotate pinion several
times to seat bearings. Check preload using an INCH lb. torque wrench.
13. Continue tightening nut, and checking preload until specified preload is obtained. See AXLE
ASSEMBLY SPECIFICATIONS table. DO NOT back off nut to lessen preload.
14. If preload is exceeded, a new collapsible spacer must be installed, and nut must be retightened until
proper preload is obtained.
1. Side bearing preload is adjusted by varying the thickness of both left and right side bearing shims equally.
Lubricate bearings, and place differential assembly into position in housing. Hold in place by hand.
2. Install Bearing Strap (J-22779-6) on left bearing. Tighten bolts evenly to a snug fit. Install right bearing
cap. Tighten bolts to a snug fit.
3. Position ring gear tight against pinion, so backlash is .000-.001" (0-.025 mm). Insert Gauge (J-22779)
between left bearing cup and carrier housing.
4. While moving gauge up and down, tighten adjusting nut on end of gauge until a slight drag is felt.
Tighten lock bolt on side of tool.
5. Install adjustment spacer and shim between right bearing cup and axle housing. Determine bearing
preload by inserting progressively larger feeler gauges between carrier and shim. The point just before
drag begins is the correct feeler gauge thickness. This is the zero setting without preload.
6. Remove bearing strap, gauge, spacer, shim, feeler gauge and differential case from axle housing. Using a
micrometer, measure and average readings in 3 places on gauge. Record measurement.
7. Add together dimensions of shim, spacer and feeler gauge. Subtract .010" (.25 mm) from ring gear (left)
side measurement and add .010" (.25 mm) to opposite (right) side measurement. This allows for correct
backlash adjustment.
8. To obtain correct preload, add .004" (10 mm) to both measurements. The total is correct shim pack
thickness for each side.
Example:
9. Install ring gear side shim first. Wedge opposite side shim between bearing cup and spacer. Install shim
so chamfered side is against spacer.
NOTE: If shim is not chamfered enough and scrapes spacer when it is installed,
file or grind chamfer before installation.
10. It may be necessary to partially remove differential when right side shim is installed. Tap shim into place
with a soft-faced hammer. Tighten bearing cap bolts to specifications. Check backlash. See BACKLASH
& FINAL ASSEMBLY .
1. Rotate case several times to seat bearings. Check backlash at 4 locations around outside edge of ring gear
using a dial indicator mounted to axle housing. Install indicator in line with gear rotation and
perpendicular to tooth angle. Pinion must be held steady while taking readings. Variation should not
exceed .002" (.05 mm).
2. If backlash is incorrect, adjust side bearing shims as necessary. After adjustment is completed, make a
tooth contact pattern test, and make any necessary corrections. Install axle shafts and housing cover. See
Fig. 4 .
NOTE: Total shim pack thickness for right and left side combined must not be
changed. If a shim is removed from one side, same thickness shim must be
added to other side.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Differential Bearing Adjusting Lock Bolt
9 1/2" Ring Gear 22 (30)
Differential Cover Bolts 20 (27)
Pinion Shaft Lock Bolt 15-20 (20-27)
Ring Gear-to-Differential Case Bolt (1)
7 1/2" & 7 5/8" Ring Gear 90 (120)
8 1/2" Ring Gear 60 (81)
9 1/2" Ring Gear 105 (142)
Side Bearing Cap Bolt
7 1/2" Ring Gear 55 (75)
8 1/2" Ring Gear 60 (81)
9 1/2" Ring Gear 60 (81)
Side Bearing Preload Adjusting Nut Lock Bolt
9 1/2" Ring Gear 22 (30)
(1) Left-hand thread. Use new bolts.
DRIVE AXLE - FRONT
IDENTIFICATION
To determine the specific drive axle ratio, refer to the below DRIVE AXLE RATIO IDENTIFICATION
article in this section.
DESCRIPTION
Chevrolet and GMC "S" series 4WD models use an independent front drive axle with a vacuum actuation
system. It consists of a transfer case with a synchronized input shaft, and a front axle unit with central locking
clutch and vacuum operated cable shift control.
The vacuum actuation system consists of a vacuum switch and vacuum actuator. See Fig. 1 . The shift
mechanism in transfer case triggers vacuum switch to apply engine vacuum to vacuum actuator, after about a 3
second delay. The vacuum actuator, in turn, pulls on shift cable which pulls on shift fork in axle. This connects
the right axle output shaft to the front axle differential. Torque is now available to front wheels.
Fig. 1: Vacuum Actuation System
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Raise and support vehicle on safety stands. Remove wheel and brake caliper and flex hoses at brackets.
Remove tie rods at steering knuckle using Puller (J-24319). Remove shock lower bolts and push shocks
out of way.
2. Remove drive axle-to-axle tube bolts. Remove axle shaft cotter pin, nut and washer. Position inner part of
drive axle forward and support away from frame. Remove shaft from hub using Puller (J-28733). Remove
axle shaft from vehicle.
3. Install axle shaft into hub. Tighten nut and washer to specifications. Install retainer and install cotter pin.
To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
Removal
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove shift cable from vacuum actuator by disengaging lock spring.
Push in actuator diaphragm to release cable.
2. Unlock steering wheel. Raise and support vehicle. Remove front wheels, engine drive belt shield and
front axle skid plate (if equipped).
3. Place a support under right lower control arm and disconnect right upper ball joint. Remove support so
control arm can hang free. Disconnect right drive axle shaft from differential output shaft.
4. Remove 4WD indicator light connection from switch. Remove 3 bolts securing cable and switch housing.
Pull housing away to gain access to cable locking spring. DO NOT unscrew cable coupling nut unless
cable is being replaced. See SHIFT CABLE removal.
5. Disconnect shift cable from shift fork shaft by lifting spring over slot in shift fork. Remove bolts securing
tube bracket to frame bracket. Remove bolts securing tube assembly to carrier.
6. Remove tube assembly by working around drive axle. DO NOT allow sleeve, thrust washers, connector
and output shaft to fall out of carrier while removing tube. See Fig. 2 .
Installation
1. Install sleeve, thrust washers, connector and output shaft in carrier. Apply Loctite (514) on axle tube to
differential surface. Be sure to install thrust washer with notch aligned with tab on washer. See Fig. 3 .
2. Install tube and shaft assembly to differential and install one bolt at one o'clock position but do not
tighten. Pull assembly down and install cable, switch housing and remaining 4 bolts. Tighten bolts to
specification.
3. Install and tighten 2 bolts securing tube to frame. Check shift unit operation. To complete installation,
reverse removal procedure.
SHIFT CABLE
Removal
1. Disengage shift cable from vacuum actuator by disengaging locking spring. Push actuator diaphragm in
to release cable. Squeeze 2 locking fingers of cable with pliers. Pull cable out of bracket hole.
2. Raise and support vehicle. Remove bolts securing cable and switch housing to carrier. DO NOT unscrew
coupling nut at this time. Remove shift cable housing from carrier assembly. Pull out about 3/4" of cable.
Remove cable end from shift fork shaft. Bend tang of locked spring, then pull cable end from shift fork
shaft.
3. Note cable routing for installation. Unscrew coupler nut and remove shift cable from shift cable housing.
Remove cable from vehicle.
Installation
1. Install cable and switch housing to carrier. Tighten mounting bolts to 30-40 ft. lbs. (40-55 N.m).
2. Guide cable though switch housing into fork shaft hole and push cable in. Cable will snap into place. Start
coupling nut by hand to avoid cross threading. Tighten nut to 90 INCH lbs. (10 N.m). DO NOT
overtighten nut.
3. Connect shift cable to vacuum actuator by pressing cable into bracket hole. Cable and housing will snap
into place. Check cable operation.
VACUUM ACTUATOR
Disconnect vacuum line from actuator. Remove shift cable. See SHIFT CABLE . Remove vacuum actuator
bolts and actuator. To install, reverse removal procedure.
Remove right extension tube and inner axle shaft. Refer to the RIGHT AXLE TUBE & INNER SHAFT .
Remove pilot bearing using Output Shaft Pilot Bearing Remover (J-34011). Install new pilot bearing using
Output Shaft Pilot Bearing Installer (J-33842). To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove right extension tube and inner axle. See RIGHT AXLE TUBE &
INNER SHAFT .
2. Remove steering stabilizer and idler arm bolts at vehicle frame. Pull steering linkage forward. Remove
axle vent hose.
3. Remove inner attaching bolts for the left drive axle. Match mark front drive shaft and remove bolts and
clamps.
4. Working through hole in frame, remove axle-to-frame mounting bolts. Tip axle assembly
counterclockwise while lifting to gain clearance from mounting ears and remove axle assembly.
5. To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten all bolts and nuts to specification. See TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS table.
OVERHAUL
AXLE SHAFT
1. Using side cutter pliers, cut dust boot band clamps. See Fig. 4 . Pull boot from tri-pot housing and
separate tri-pot housing from spider assembly. Wrap tape around spider assembly to retain needle
bearings.
2. Using snap ring pliers, remove axle shaft retaining ring and separate spider assembly from axle shaft.
Note position of counterbore of spider for reassembly purposes. Remove spacer ring if necessary. Slide
dust boot from axle shaft.
1. Using side cutter pliers, cut dust boot clamps. Pull boot back from CV joint. Using Snap Ring Pliers (J-
8059), spread retaining ring ears apart and pull axle shaft out of CV cage.
2. Using a brass drift and hammer, gently tap on cage until its tilted enough to remove the first ball. Repeat
procedure to remove the remaining balls. Rotate inner race at a 90 degree angle to cage and remove race.
See Fig. 5 .
Cleaning & Inspection
Wash all parts in solvent and dry with compressed air. Inspect all parts for excessive wear and scoring. Inspect
splined stub shaft for wear, cracks and twisted splines.
1. Flush grease from tri-pot housing. Repack housing using half of grease supplied in dust boot kit. Place the
remainder of grease into dust boot after securing small band clamp.
2. Position small band clamp to dust boot. Slide boot onto axle shaft. Ensure boot seats into groove on axle
shaft and secure clamp using side cutter pliers. Install spacer ring, if previously removed. Ensure ring
seats into groove properly.
3. Install spider with counterbore facing end of axle shaft. Install snap ring to retain spider assembly.
Position large band clamp onto dust boot. Coat inner lip with grease and seat boot into groove on tri-pot
housing. Secure band clamp. Reverse disassembly procedures to complete reassembly.
NOTE: Ensure retaining ring side of inner race faces axle shaft.
3. Install ball bearings one at a time into outer CV joint as cage is tilted and rotated. After balls are installed
into cage, pivot cage and inner race into installed position.
4. Position band clamp onto boot and slide boot onto axle shaft. Secure clamp using side cutter pliers. Coat
inside lip (large diameter end of seal with CV grease) and slide large band clamp onto dust boot.
5. Install snap ring onto axle shaft, and slide CV joint onto axle shaft until snap ring seats in groove. Slide
dust boot toward joint until dust boot is in the groove in the axle shaft. Secure large band clamp. Reverse
disassembly procedure to complete reassembly. See Fig. 6 .
Disassembly
1. Remove axle output shaft and thrust washer. Remove left output shaft by prying between shaft flange and
carrier bolt head with a screwdriver and simultaneously striking shaft flange with a soft-faced hammer.
2. Remove 6 cover-to-carrier bolts securing left side. Tap cover to loosen and remove. While supporting
cover, drive out left seal using a punch.
3. Remove 10 bolts holding axle housing halves together. Insert screwdriver in slots provided, (one next to
fill plug, and 180 degrees from fill plug) and pry axle housing halves apart.
4. Remove differential from housing. Remove both side bearing adjusting locks. Remove race for both
differential side bearings by turning side bearing adjusting sleeve with Side Bearing Adjuster Wrench (J-
33792) until race is pushed out of carrier.
5. Using Pinion Flange Holder (J-8614-01), remove pinion flange nut. Install Holding Fixture (J-33837-1).
Use bolts supplied with tool to install fixture on carrier and remove pinion and flange. See Fig. 7 .
6. Install Bearing Race Remover (J-33837-6) on Holding Fixture (J-33837-1) and remove outer pinion
bearing, race and pinion seal. See Fig. 8 .
7. Remove inner pinion bearing race by pushing it out of housing with bearing race remover installed on
Pinion Bearing Remover/Installer (J-33837). Remove inner drive pinion bearing using Differential
Side/Pinion Bearing Remover (J-22912-01).
Cleaning & Inspection
Clean all parts in cleaning solvent. Inspect all parts for excessive wear.
Reassembly
1. Lubricate outer pinion and inner bearing races. Install using Holding Fixture (J-33837-1) and Bearing
Race Installer (J-33837-4) until races are seated in housing. See Fig. 9 . Lubricate inner and outer
bearings, then set pinion depth. See DRIVE PINION DEPTH under ADJUSTMENTS.
2. Install inner pinion bearing on shaft using Pinion Bearing Installer J-33785). Install new collapsible
spacer on pinion shaft and position assembly in carrier. Lubricate outer pinion bearing and install in
housing.
3. Lubricate pinion bearing seal with axle lube. Using Pinion Seal Installer (J-33782), install seal. Install
pinion flange, washer and nut.
4. Install Flange Holder (J-8614-01) on pinion flange and hold flange while tightening pinion flange nut.
Tighten nut until no end play is present. DO NOT tighten further as preload specifications are being
approached. For preload procedure, See DRIVE PINION DEPTH under ADJUSTMENTS.
5. Rotate pinion several times to ensure bearings have been seated. Set final preload to 15-25 INCH lbs.
(1.7-2.8 N.m).
Fig. 9: Installing Inner Bearing Race
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
6. Assemble output shaft bearings and adjusting sleeves into inserts in carrier and finger tighten. Install
differential side bearing race into housing using Differential Side Bearing Race Installer (J-23423-A).
7. Using new output shaft bearings, adjusting sleeve inserts and Output Shaft Bearing Installer (J-33788),
press output shaft bearings into adjusting sleeves from inner side of sleeves.
8. Install adjusting sleeve and bearing into insert and finger tighten. Using Differential Side Bearing Race
Installer (J-23423-A), press assembly into axle housing.
9. Install differential into housing and set ring gear backlash adjustment to specification. See RING GEAR
BACKLASH under ADJUSTMENTS.
10. Install left differential housing seal. Support housing to prevent distorting or bending of housing. Apply
gasket sealer to housing surface and install housing cover.
DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING
Disassembly
1. Using Differential Side/Pinion Bearing Remover (J-22912-01), remove side bearings. Remove pinion
shaft lock screw and pinion. Remove pinions, side gears and thrust washers from housing. Mark side
gears and housing so they can be installed in original location.
2. If ring gear is to be replaced and is tight on housing after removing right-hand thread bolts, drive off ring
gear using a brass drift and hammer. DO NOT pry between ring gear and housing.
Reassembly
1. Lubricate all parts with axle lubricant. Place side gear thrust washers over side gear hubs. Install side
gears in housing. Ensure any original parts are installed in original positions.
2. Position a pinion (with washer) between side gears and rotate gears until pinion is directly opposite
opening in housing. Place other pinion between side gears so pinion shaft holes align. Rotate gears to
make sure holes in pinions will line up with holes in housing.
3. Rotate pinions back toward opening just enough to permit sliding in pinion gear thrust washer. Install
pinion shaft and lock screw. Install 2 new bolts into opposite sides of ring gear, then install ring gear on
housing. Tighten ring gear bolts. Refer to TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table.
ADJUSTMENTS
DRIVE PINION DEPTH
1. Lubricate inner and outer pinion bearings liberally with axle lubricant. Hold pinion bearings in position
and install Pinion Shim Setting Gauge (J-33838). With gauge installed, preload inner and outer pinion
bearing to 15-25 INCH lbs. (1.7-2.8 N.m) by tightening mounting bolt while holding end of gauge shaft
with a wrench.
2. Using Dial Indicator (J-29763), set reading to zero, then position dial indicator on pinion shim setting
gauge. Push dial indicator downward until needle rotates approximately 3 turns clockwise. Tighten dial
indicator in this position. See Fig. 10 .
NOTE: All "S" series 4WD front axle drive pinions are "nominal" or "zero" and not
marked. Shim thickness will equal dial indicator gauge reading.
3. Set button of pinion shim setting gauge on differential bearing bore. Rotate gauge slowly back and forth
until dial indicator reads lowest point of bore. Set dial indicator to zero. Repeat rocking action of gauge to
verify zero setting.
4. After zero setting is obtained and verified, move gauge button out of differential side bearing bore.
Record dial indicator reading. Use a shim that is exactly the same size as indicator reading.
5. Remove dial indicator and gauge from carrier. Position correct shim on drive pinion. Install drive pinion.
Fig. 10: Setting Pinion Shim Gauge
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Using Side Bearing Adjusting Wrench (J-33792), turn in left adjusting sleeve toward differential housing
until backlash is felt between ring and pinion gears.
2. Ensure carrier mating surfaces are clean. Assemble carrier together without using sealer. If axle housing
halves will not make complete contact, back out right adjusting sleeve.
3. Install 4 axle housing bolts and tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 N.m). Using side bearing adjusting wrench,
tighten right adjusting sleeve until no backlash is present, which is approximately 100 ft. lbs. (140 N.m).
See Fig. 11 .
4. Mark location of adjusting sleeves in relation to carrier halves, so notches in adjusting sleeves can be
counted when turned. Turn right adjusting sleeve out 2 notches using side bearing adjusting wrench. Turn
in left adjusting sleeve one notch. See Fig. 12 .
Fig. 11: Position of Bolts in Axle Housing
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
5. Rotate axle housing several times to seat bearings, then mount dial indicator. Use a small button on
indicator stem so contact can be made near heel end of tooth angle for accurate backlash reading. Set
backlash to the correct specification. Refer to the correct AXLE ASSEMBLY SPECIFICATIONS
table.
6. If backlash is not within specification, readjust adjusting sleeves as necessary. DO NOT install adjusting
sleeve locks at this time.
7. Mark right adjusting sleeve so it can be repositioned in same location and loosen sleeve to release right
side bearing to differential housing contact. Remove 4 axle housing bolts and axle housing half. Apply
Loctite (514) on one axle housing surface.
8. Reinstall axle housing halves. Install 10 attaching bolts and tighten to specification. Reposition right
adjusting sleeve in previous marked position and install both adjusting sleeve locks.
9. Perform gear tooth contact pattern check. See GEAR TOOTH CONTACT PATTERNS article in this
section.
Fig. 12: Marking Adjusting Sleeve Location
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Axle Housing Bolts 30-40 (40-55)
Axle Housing-to-Frame Bolts 65 (90)
Axle Hub Nut 160-200 (220-270)
Cable Switch Housing Bolts 30-40 (40-55)
Drive Axle-to-Output Flange Bolts 60 (81)
Front Drive Shaft Bolts 15 (20)
Idler Arm-to-Frame Bolts 60 (81)
Lower Shock Bolt 54 (73)
Right Axle Tube-to-Housing Bolts 36 (48)
Ring Gear Attaching Bolts 52-66 (70-90)
Tie Rod Nut 26 (35)
Upper Ball Joint Nut 61 (83)
Wheel Lug Nuts
Aluminum 90 (120)
Steel 73 (100)
INCH Lbs. (N.m)
Adjusting Sleeve Lock Nut 71 (8)
DRIVE AXLE RATIO IDENTIFICATION
IDENTIFICATION
CORPORATE BUILT
Axle identification code for rear axles is stamped on forward surface of right axle tube, 3-5" outboard of carrier
(6-8" on 20 and 30 series trucks). Location of identification code for front axles not available from
manufacturer.
DANA BUILT
Identification code is stamped on rear surface of right axle tube. In addition, the 3-digit axle code appears on
tape strip attached to outboard end of axle tube.
ROCKWELL BUILT
DESCRIPTION
The single ("serpentine" or "V" ribbed) drive belt system has been adopted by manufacturer's as a replacement
for multiple "V" belt systems previously offered. The "serpentine" belt requires a belt tensioner similar to those
used to control timing belt tension.
Use of a tensioner allows engine accessories to be mounted rigidly on the engine. The single belt drive system
has a predicted life of 100,000 miles before replacement is required.
The belt tensioner has a wide functional range and is capable of maintaining tension during the expected life of
the belt. Tensioner cannot compensate for extreme belt lengths. Poor tension control and possible tensioner
damage can result from excessive belt length.
INSPECTION
Inspect belt for fraying. If fraying has occurred, ensure belt and tensioner are properly aligned. If tensioner has
reached its limit of travel, belt is excessively stretched and replacement of belt is required.
If excessive noise is noticed from tensioner or idler, check for possible bearing failure. Small cracks in the back
of the belt are acceptable. Do not apply "Belt Dressing" or any other additive to serpentine belt.
NOTE: Call out identifications are described at the bottom of each figure.
1. Belt.
2. Idler Pulley.
3. Air Conditioning Compressor.
4. Water Pump.
5. Crankshaft.
6. Tensioner.
7. Alternator.
8. Power Steering Pump.
9. AIR Pump.
1. Belt.
2. Air Conditioning Compressor.
3. Tensioner.
4. Alternator.
5. Power Steering Pump.
6. Crankshaft.
7. Water Pump.
8. AIR Pump.
9. Idler Pulley.
1. Belt.
2. Air Conditioning Compressor.
3. Tensioner.
4. Alternator.
5. Power Steering Pump.
6. Crankshaft.
7. Water Pump.
8. Air Pump.
9. Idler Pulley.
10. Vacuum Pump (Diesel Engine Only).
DRIVE SHAFT ALIGNMENT
DESCRIPTION
Drive shafts are balanced, one-piece, tubular shafts with universal joints at each end. Number used in vehicle
varies: one shaft, 2 shafts with a center bearing, or 3 shafts. Three shafts are used in many 4WD applications.
Location of slip joints varies with model and manufacturer. See Fig. 1 .
INSPECTION
Vibration can come from many sources. Before overhauling driveline, check other sources of possible vibration
as follows:
TIRES & WHEELS
Check tire inflation and wheel balance. Check for foreign objects in tread, damaged tread, mismatched tread
patterns or incorrect tire size.
CENTER BEARING
Tighten drive shaft center bearing mounting bolts. If bearing insulator is deteriorated or oil-soaked, replace it.
DRIVE SHAFT
Check drive shaft for damage or dents that could affect balance. Check for undercoating adhering to shafts. If
present, clean shafts thoroughly.
UNIVERSAL JOINTS
Check for foreign material stuck in joints. Check for loose bolts and worn bearings.
ADJUSTMENTS
DRIVE SHAFT PHASING
One-Piece Shafts
Check that flanges on either end of drive shaft are in same plane. Often there are arrows on slip joint and drive
shaft to aid in alignment. See Fig. 2 . If flanges are not in same plane, disassemble universal joint and align.
Two-Piece Shafts
1. All models with 32 splines use keys on spline and slip joint, which can only mate in correct position. On
most models with two-piece shafts, proper phasing is accomplished by keys on spline and slip joint.
2. On models with two-piece shafts, rotate transmission yoke until trunnion is in horizontal plane. Install
front drive shaft with "U" joint trunnion in vertical plane. Connect bearing support to crossmember.
3. Ensure that front face of bearing support is perpendicular (90 degrees) to centerline of drive shaft. Install
rear drive shaft with "U" joint trunnion of slip joint in vertical plane.
4. Set differential pinion yoke trunnion in vertical plane. Connect rear drive shaft to pinion yoke. If two-
piece shaft is correctly installed, centerline of trunnions at each end of individual shafts will be parallel.
See Fig. 2 .
Fig. 2: Phase Alignment Of Two-Piece Drive Shafts
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Drive shaft imbalance may often be cured by disconnecting shaft and rotating it 180 degrees in relation to
other components. Test by raising rear wheels off ground, and turning shaft with engine.
NOTE: DO NOT run engine without ram airflow across radiator for prolonged
periods, as overheating of engine or transmission may occur.
2. On most models, balance testing may be done by marking shaft in 4 positions, 90 degrees apart. Place
marks approximately 6" forward of weld, at rear end of shaft. Number marks one through 4.
3. Place screw-type hose clamp so clamp head is in number one position, and rotate shaft with engine. If
there is little or no change, move clamp head to No. 2 position, and repeat test.
4. Continue procedure until vibration is at lowest level. If no difference is noted with clamp head moved to
all 4 positions, vibrations may not be drive shaft imbalance.
5. If vibration is lessened but not completely gone, place 2 clamps at that point, and run test again.
Combined weight of clamps in one position may increase vibration. If so, rotate clamps 1/2" apart, above
and below best position, and repeat test.
6. Continue to rotate clamps as necessary, until vibration is at lowest point. If vibration level is still
unacceptable, leave rear clamp(s) in position and repeat procedure at front end of drive shaft. If vibration
can be eliminated or reduced to acceptable levels using this test procedure, send drive shaft out to be
balanced.
Fig. 3: Drive Shaft Phase Alignment
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. All flanges must be perpendicular in both vertical and horizontal planes to engine crankshaft. Only
exception is "broken back" type driveline, which has flanges that are not perpendicular in vertical plane.
See Fig. 4 .
2. With nonparallel or "broken back" type installation, working angles of universal joints of given drive
shaft are equal. Angle "A" = angle "B".
3. This is calculated as follows: angle of output shaft centerline is subtracted from angle of drive shaft.
Difference should equal angle of drive shaft subtracted from pinion shaft angle.
Fig. 4: Typical "Broken Back" Type Drive Shaft Alignment
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
4. Parallel type joints maintain constant velocity between output shaft and pinion shaft. Vibration is
minimized and component life maximized when universal joints are parallel.
5. Using dial indicator, measure runout of transmission flange, center bearing flange and pinion flange. If
runout exceeds .003-.005" (.08-.13 mm), replace flange.
6. If dial indicator cannot be used, push rod with snug fit through flange bearing bore. See if it aligns with
opposite flange bore. If not, replace flange.
7. Rotate transmission flange until it is vertical, measuring from side. Check center bearing and pinion
flanges. They cannot be more than one degree off vertical. See DRIVE SHAFT PHASING .
8. Rotate transmission flange until it is vertical, measured from side. Measure angle from end and record it.
Check all other flanges for same angle. They must be within 1/2 degree of each other. Adjust as required.
9. If difficulty is encountered when making these adjustments, horizontal alignment should be checked.
Even though vertical alignment is correct, horizontal alignment can be badly out of adjustment. This is
often found after major component replacement or repair of serious accident damage. See Fig. 6 .
Fig. 5: Vertical Alignment of Drive Shaft
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
10. To make horizontal alignment checks, set straightedges up. See Fig. 7 . Set transmission output flange
horizontal and clamp straightedge to flange in a horizontal plane. Repeat procedure with drive pinion
flange. Ensure that flanges are horizontal by checking angle of straightedge with spirit level.
11. Using straightedge that is 12" longer than width of rear wheel track at 90 degrees, clamp to frame side
rails. Use large framing squares to align straightedge with side rails.
12. Measure distance "X" at each side. If both measurements are not within 1/16" (1.6 mm) of each other,
transmission flange is horizontally misaligned.
13. Measure distance "Y" (edge of straightedge to axle shaft centerline) at each side. If 2 dimensions are not
within 1/8" (3.2 mm) of each other, axle housing is misaligned.
14. Measure distance "W" at each side. If both measurements are not within 1/16" (1.6 mm) of each other,
pinion flange is horizontally misaligned.
Fig. 7: Checking Horizontal Alignment
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
EXHAUST EMISSION SYSTEMS
EXHAUST EMISSION SYSTEMS General Motors Corp. - Gasoline EGR Function Testing
SYSTEM TESTING
FUNCTIONAL TESTS
1. Turn engine off. Disconnect vacuum hose from EGR valve. Place finger underneath valve and push up to
depress valve diaphragm. With diaphragm depressed, plug vacuum port on EGR valve.
2. Diaphragm should take over 20 seconds to return to its seated position. If diaphragm takes less than 20
seconds to return to its seat, replace EGR valve.
3. Depress diaphragm and plug vacuum port. Immediately start engine and observe diaphragm movement.
Diaphragm is operating properly if diaphragm moves to seated position during cranking and initial
starting.
4. If diaphragm does not move during cranking or initial starting, EGR valve should be cleaned.
1. Remove EGR valve vacuum hose at EGR valve and connect hose to vacuum gauge. Start engine. With
transmission in Park or Neutral, open throttle partially. As throttle is opened, vacuum gauge should
respond with increase in vacuum reading. If operation is satisfactory, remove gauge and reconnect hose to
EGR valve. If gauge does not respond to throttle opening, proceed to step 2).
2. Remove carburetor-to-TVS hose from switch and connect hose to vacuum gauge. Start engine. With
transmission in Park or Neutral, open throttle partially. If vacuum gauge responds to throttle opening,
switch is defective. Remove switch and replace with new part. If gauge does not respond to throttle
opening, check for cracked or plugged hose.
ELECTRICAL COMPONENT LOCATOR
MOTORS
MOTORS LOCATION
Component Location
A/C-Heater Blower Motor In evaporator housing, in engine
compartment.
Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
2.5L On throttle body. See Fig. 1 .
2.8L On throttle body. See Fig. 2 .
4.3L On throttle body. See Fig. 3 .
Power Door Lock Motor In bottom rear of each door.
Power Window Motor In each door.
Windshield Washer Motor In bottom of washer reservoir.
Windshield Wiper Motor On center of firewall.
SWITCHES
SWITCHES LOCATION
Component Location
A/C Low Charge Protection Switch On rear of A/C compressor.
A/C Pressure Cycling Switch On accumulator.
Back-Up Light Switch On left side of transmission.
Brake Pressure Switch On master cylinder.
Brake/Stoplight Switch On pedal bracket.
Brake Switch (Cruise) On brake pedal support bracket.
Clutch Switch (Cruise) On clutch pedal support bracket.
EGR Diagnostic Switch (2.8L) At left rear of engine, next to EGR valve. See Fig.
2.
Parking Brake Switch On base of parking brake assembly.
Power Steering Press. Switch (PSPS) In power steering pressure hose, near steering gear.
See Fig. 1 .
Starter Lock-Out Switch (M/T) On clutch pedal bracket.
Starter Lock-Out Switch (A/T) Base of steering column.
Transmission Position Switch On steering column.
4WD Indicator Switch On front drive axle.
MISCELLANEOUS
MISCELLANEOUS LOCATION
Component Location
A/C-Heater Blower Motor Resistor On blower motor housing.
ALDL Diagnostic Connector
2.5L Under left side of dash, to right of
steering column. See Fig. 1 .
2.8L Under left side of dash, to right of
steering column. See Fig. 2 .
4.3L Under left side of dash, to right of
steering column. See Fig. 3 .
Cruise Control Servo ( ONLY) On top of left front wheelwell.
Fuel Pump Prime/Test Connector
2.5L On center of firewall. See Fig. 1 .
2.8L On left fender panel, behind fuel
pump relay. See Fig. 2 .
4.3L On left fender panel, behind fuel
pump relay. See Fig. 3 .
NOTE: Figures may show multiple component locations. Refer to appropriate table for
proper figure references.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
The vehicle manufacturer's emission control label, also known as the underhood tune-up label or Vehicle's
Underhood Emission Control System (VECI) label, is located in the engine compartment. Information
regarding year model of vehicle, engine size, number of cylinders, emission equipment or type, engine tune-up
specifications, whether vehicle was manufactured for sale in California or is a Federal vehicle, vacuum hose
routing schematic, etc., can be found on this label. See Fig. 1.
In addition to the VECI label, some emission control inspection and maintenance programs may require an
additional label to be affixed to the vehicle in special circumstances. For example, in California, a Bureau Of
Automotive Repair (BAR) engine label may be affixed to the left door post. A BAR engine label is only used
when the vehicle has an engine change, approved modification or is a Specially Constructed (SPCN) or an
acceptable Gray market vehicle. Check your state's emission control inspection and maintenance laws to
determine if a similar label is used.
NOTE: The following emission control visual inspection procedures should be used as
a guide only. When performing a visual inspection, always follow your state's
recommended inspection procedures.
A visual inspection is made to determine if any required emission control devices are missing, modified or
disconnected. Missing, modified or disconnected systems must be made fully operational before a vehicle can
be certified.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
PCV controls the flow of crankcase fumes into the intake manifold while preventing gases and flames from
traveling in the opposite direction. PCV is either an open or closed system. See Fig. 2.
Ensure PCV system is installed as required. Verify valve, required hoses, connections, flame arresters, etc., are
present, routed properly and in serviceable condition.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
The TAC supplies warm air to air intake during cold engine operation. This system is active during cold engine
warm-up only. Under all other operating conditions, air cleaner function is the same as any non-thermostatic
unit.
Ensure required exhaust shroud, hot air duct, vacuum hoses and air cleaner components are present and installed
properly. See Fig. 3. Ensure any required thermostatic vacuum switches are in place and vacuum hoses are
installed and in serviceable condition. Also ensure air cleaner lid is installed right side up. Check for oversized
air filter elements and for additional holes in the air cleaner housing.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
The EVAP system allows for proper fuel system ventilation while preventing fuel vapors from reaching the
atmosphere. This means that vapors must be caught and stored while the engine is off, which is when most fuel
evaporation occurs. When the engine is started, these fuel vapors can be removed from storage and burned. In
most systems, storage is provided by an activated charcoal (or carbon) canister. See Fig. 4. On a few early
systems, charcoal canisters are not used. Instead, fuel vapors are vented into the PCV system and stored inside
the crankcase.
The main components of a fuel evaporation system are a sealed fuel tank, a liquid-vapor separator and vent
lines to a vapor-storing canister filled with activated charcoal. The filler cap is normally not vented to the
atmosphere, but is fitted with a valve to allow both pressure and vacuum relief.
Although a few variations do exist between manufacturers, basic operation is the same for all systems. Check
for presence of vapor storage canister or crankcase storage connections when required. Ensure required hoses,
solenoids, etc., are present and connected properly. Check for proper type fuel tank cap. Check for any non-
OEM or auxiliary fuel tanks for compliance and the required number of evaporation canisters.
CATALYTIC CONVERTERS
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
This type of converter is the most common. It may use pellets or monolith medium, depending upon
application. See Fig. 5. Platinum and palladium (or platinum alone) are used as catalyst in this type of
converter.
Visually check for presence of catalytic converter(s). Check for external damage such as severe dents, removed
or damaged heat shields, etc. Also check for pellets or pieces of converter in the tailpipe.
Fig. 5: Typical Oxidation Catalytic Converter (Pellet Type) Shown; Typical Three-Way Catalytic
Converter Is Similar
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
This type of converter is nearly identical to a conventional converter with the exception of the catalyst. See Fig.
5. The TWC converter uses rhodium, with or without platinum, as its catalyst. Rhodium helps reduce NOx
emissions, as well as HC and CO.
Visually check for presence of catalytic converter(s). Also check for presence of any required air supply system
for the oxidizing section of the converter. Check for external damage such as severe dents, removed or damaged
heat shields, etc. Check for pellets or pieces of converter in the tailpipe.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
This system contains a TWC converter and an OC converter in a common housing, separated by a small air
space. See Fig. 6. The 2 catalysts are referred to as catalyst beds. Exhaust gases pass through the TWC first.
The TWC bed performs the same function as it would as a separate device, reducing all 3 emissions. As exhaust
gases leave the bed, they pass through the air space and into the second (OC) converter catalyst bed.
Visually check for presence of catalytic converter(s). Check for external damage such as severe dents, removed
or damaged heat shields, etc. Check for pellets or pieces of converter in the tailpipe.
Fig. 6: Typical Three-Way + Oxidation Catalytic Converter
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
A fuel tank fill pipe restrictor is used to prohibit the introduction of leaded fuel into the fuel tank. Unleaded
gasoline pump dispensers have a smaller diameter nozzle to fit fuel tank of vehicle requiring the use of unleaded
fuel (vehicles equipped with catalytic converter).
Visually inspect fill pipe restrictor(s) for tampering, i.e., restrictor is oversize or the flapper is non-functional. If
vehicle is equipped with an auxiliary fuel tank, ensure auxiliary fuel tank is also equipped with a fill pipe
restrictor.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
This type uses a single diaphragm connected to the valve by a shaft. Diaphragm is spring-loaded to keep valve
closed in the absence of vacuum. As throttle valves open and engine speed increases, vacuum is applied to the
EGR vacuum diaphragm, opening the EGR valve. This vacuum signal comes from a ported vacuum source.
Variations in the vacuum signal control the amount of exhaust gas that is recirculated. See Fig. 7.
Verify EGR valve is present and not modified or purposely damaged. Ensure thermal vacuum switches,
pressure transducers, speed switches, etc., (if applicable) are not by-passed or modified. Ensure vacuum hose(s)
to EGR valve is not plugged.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
This type uses 2 diaphragms with different effective areas and 2 vacuum sources. Although similar to the single
diaphragm type, the second diaphragm is added below the upper diaphragm and is rigidly attached to the valve
seat. See Fig. 8. These diaphragms form a vacuum chamber which is connected to manifold vacuum.
During highway cruising when manifold vacuum is high in the center chamber, manifold vacuum tends to pull
the valve closed. However, the vacuum signal applied to the top side of the upper diaphragm overcomes the
downward spring force and the manifold vacuum pull, due to the diaphragm's larger piston. This regulates the
amount of EGR.
When manifold vacuum is low during acceleration, the higher vacuum signal opens the valve, permitting more
EGR. When manifold vacuum is high during highway cruising, the valve is only partially opened, reducing the
amount of EGR.
Verify EGR valve is present and not modified or purposely damaged. Ensure thermal vacuum switches,
pressure transducers, speed switches, etc., (if applicable) are not by-passed or modified. Ensure vacuum hose(s)
to EGR valve is not plugged.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
This type uses both engine vacuum and exhaust backpressure to control the amount of EGR. It provides more
recirculation during heavy engine loads than the single diaphragm EGR valve.
A small diaphragm-controlled valve inside EGR valve acts as a pressure regulator. The control valve gets an
exhaust backpressure signal through the hollow valve shaft. This exhaust backpressure exerts a force on bottom
of control valve diaphragm. The diaphragm plate contains 6 bleed holes to bleed air into the vacuum chamber
when backpressure valve is in open position. See Fig. 9.
Verify EGR valve is present and not modified or purposely damaged. Ensure thermal vacuum switches,
pressure transducers, speed switches, etc., (if applicable) are not by-passed or modified. Ensure vacuum hose(s)
to EGR valve is not plugged.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
This type has the same function as the positive BP/EGR valve except valve is designed to open with a negative
exhaust backpressure. The control valve spring in the transducer is placed on the bottom side of the diaphragm.
See Fig. 10.
When ported vacuum is applied to the main vacuum chamber, partially opening the valve, the vacuum signal
from the manifold side (reduced by exhaust backpressure) is transmitted to the hollow stem of the valve. See
Fig. 10. This enables the signal to act on the diaphragm, providing a specific flow. Thus, the EGR flow is a
constant percentage of engine airflow.
Verify EGR valve is present and not modified or purposely damaged. Ensure thermal vacuum switches,
pressure transducers, speed switches, etc., (if applicable) are not by-passed or modified. Ensure vacuum hose(s)
to EGR valve is not plugged.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
The digital EGR valve operates independently of engine manifold vacuum. This valve controls EGR flow
through 3 orifices. These 3 orifices are opened and closed by electric solenoids. The solenoids are, in turn,
controlled by the Electronic Control Module (ECM). When a solenoid is energized, the armature with attached
shaft and swivel pintle is lifted, opening the orifice. See Fig. 11.
The ECM uses inputs from the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS), Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and Mass
Airflow (MAF) sensors to control the EGR orifices to make 7 different combinations for precise EGR flow
control. At idle, the EGR valve allows a very small amount of exhaust gas to enter the intake manifold. This
EGR valve normally operates above idle speed during warm engine operation.
Verify EGR valve is present and not modified or purposely damaged. Ensure thermal vacuum switches,
pressure transducers, speed switches, etc., (if applicable) are not by-passed or modified. Ensure vacuum hose(s)
to EGR valve is not plugged. Ensure electrical connector to EGR valve is not disconnected.
Fig. 11: Typical Digital EGR Valve
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
This type functions similar to a ported EGR valve with a remote vacuum regulator. The internal solenoid is
normally open, which causes the vacuum signal to be vented off to the atmosphere when EGR is not controlled
by the Electronic Control Module (ECM). The solenoid valve opens and closes the vacuum signal, controlling
the amount of vacuum applied to the diaphragm. See Fig. 12.
The electronic EGR valve contains a voltage regulator, which converts ECM signal and regulates current to the
solenoid. The ECM controls EGR flow with a pulse width modulated signal based on airflow, TPS and RPM.
This system also contains a pintle position sensor, which works similarly to a TPS sensor. As EGR flow is
increased, the sensor output increases.
Verify EGR valve is present and not modified or purposely damaged. Ensure thermal vacuum switches,
pressure transducers, speed switches, etc., (if applicable) are not by-passed or modified. Ensure electrical
connector to EGR valve is not disconnected.
Fig. 12: Cutaway View Of Typical Integrated Electronic EGR Valve
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
Spark control systems are designed to ensure the air/fuel mixture is ignited at the best possible moment to
provide optimum efficiency and power and cleaner emissions.
Ensure vacuum hoses to the distributor, carburetor, spark delay valves, thermal vacuum switches, etc., are in
place and routed properly. On Computerized Engine Controls (CEC), check for presence of required sensors
(O2, MAP, CTS, TPS, etc.). Ensure they have not been tampered with or modified.
Check for visible modification or replacement of the feedback carburetor, fuel injection unit or injector(s) with
a non-feedback carburetor or fuel injection system. Check for modified emission-related components
unacceptable for use on pollution-controlled vehicles.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
The air pump is a belt-driven vane type pump, mounted to engine in combination with other accessories. The air
pump itself consists of the pump housing, an inner air cavity, a rotor and a vane assembly. As the vanes turn in
the housing, filtered air is drawn in through the intake port and pushed out through the exhaust port. See Fig.
13.
Check for missing or disconnected belt, check valve(s), diverter valve(s), air distribution manifolds, etc. Check
air injection system for proper hose routing.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
PAIR eliminates the need for an air pump and most of the associated hardware. Most systems consists of air
delivery pipe(s), pulse valve(s) and check valve(s). The check valve prevents exhaust gases from entering the
air injection system. See Fig. 14.
Ensure required check valve(s), diverter valve(s), air distribution manifolds, etc., are present. Check air
injection system for proper hose routing.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
The O2 sensor is mounted in the exhaust system where it monitors oxygen content of exhaust gases. Some
vehicles may use 2 O2 sensors. The O2 sensor produces a voltage signal which is proportional to exhaust gas
oxygen concentration (0-3%) compared to outside oxygen (20-21%). This voltage signal is low (about .1 volt)
when a lean mixture is present and high (1.0 volt) when a rich mixture is present.
As ECM compensates for a lean or rich condition, this voltage signal constantly fluctuates between high and
low, crossing a reference voltage supplied by the ECM on the O2 signal line. This is referred to as cross counts.
A problem in the O2 sensor circuit should set a related trouble code.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
The CEC system monitors and controls a variety of engine/vehicle functions. The CEC system is primarily an
emission control system designed to maintain a 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio under most operating conditions. When the
ideal air/fuel ratio is maintained, the catalytic converter can control oxides of nitrogen (NOx), hydrocarbon
(HC) and carbon monoxide (CO) emissions.
The CEC system consists of the following sub-systems: Electronic Control Module (ECM), input devices
(sensors and switches) and output signals.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
The EFE valve is actuated by either a vacuum actuator or a bimetal spring (heat-riser type). The EFE valve is
closed when engine is cold. The closed valve restricts exhaust gas flow from the exhaust manifold. This forces
part of the exhaust gas to flow up through a passage below the carburetor. As the exhaust gas quickly warms the
intake mixture, distribution is improved. This results in better cold engine driveability, shorter choke periods
and lower emissions.
Ensure EFE valve in exhaust manifold is not frozen or rusted in a fixed position. On vacuum-actuated EFE
system, check EFE thermal vacuum valve and check valve(s). Also check for proper vacuum hose routing. See
Fig. 15.
Fig. 15: Typical Vacuum-Actuated EFE System
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
If equipped, the EMR light (some models may use a reminder flag) reminds vehicle operator that an emission
system maintenance is required. This indicator is activated after a predetermined time/mileage.
When performing a smog check inspection, ensure EMR indicator is not activated. On models using an EMR
light, light should glow when ignition switch is turned to ON position and should turn off when engine is
running.
If an EMR flag is present or an EMR light stays on with engine running, fail vehicle and service or replace
applicable emission-related components. To reset an EMR indicator, refer to appropriate MAINTENANCE
REMINDER LIGHTS in the MAINTENANCE section.
NOTE: This article is provided for general information only. Not all information applies
to all makes and models. For more complete information, see appropriate article
(s) in the ENGINE PERFORMANCE Section.
The Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) is used to alert vehicle operator that the computerized engine control
system has detected a malfunction (when it stays on all the time with engine running). On some models, the
MIL may also be used to display trouble codes.
As a bulb and system check, malfunction indicator light will glow when ignition switch is turned to ON position
and engine is not running. When engine is started, light should go out.
ENGINE OIL PAN REMOVAL
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure must be
relieved before disconnecting fuel lines on fuel injected models.
4-Cylinder Engine
Place transmission gear selector in Park (Neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block drive
wheels. Loosen fuel filler cap to relieve tank pressure. Disconnect 3-terminal electrical connector at fuel tank.
Start engine and allow to run until engine stalls due to lack of fuel. Crank engine for 3 seconds to remove any
fuel pressure left in fuel lines. Fuel lines are now safe for servicing.
Place transmission gear selector in Park (Neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block drive
wheels. Although fuel pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to relieve tank
pressure. To further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a shop rag while
removing fuel lines.
OIL PAN
2WD
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Drain engine oil and cooling system. Remove engine. Remove oil pan
attaching hardware. Remove oil pan. Clean all gasket mating surfaces and straighten sealing flange.
2. When installing, apply thin coat of RTV sealer to entire oil pan sealing flange. Align holes of gasket on
block and install oil pan.
4WD
1. Disconnect negative battery cable and drain engine oil. Raise vehicle to remove drive belt splash, front
axle and transfer case shields. Disconnect brake lines at crossmember. Remove No. 2 crossmember.
2. Disconnect exhaust pipes at manifold and slide rearward. On automatic transmission models, remove
converter hanger bolts. Disconnect front drive shaft at drive pinion.
3. Disconnect engine braces at flywheel cover and loosen braces at block. Remove starter and flywheel
cover. Disconnect steering damper at frame bracket. Remove steering gear bolts.
4. Mark position of idler arm location for reinstallation and remove attaching bolts. Pull steering gear and
linkage forward. Remove front differential housing mounting bolts and move housing forward.
5. Remove motor mount through bolts. Remove oil pan retaining bolts. Raise engine. Remove oil pan. Clean
all gasket mating surfaces and straighten sealing flange.
Fig. 1: View of General Motors 2.5L Oil Pan Sealant Points
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 2: View of General Motors 2.8L Oil Pan
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 3: View of General Motors 4.3L Oil Pan & Sealing Points
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 4: View of General Motors 4.8L Oil Pan & Sealing Points
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
DESCRIPTION
Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate to a specific engine or system.
Illustrations and procedures have been chosen to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions
of cleaning, inspection, and assembly processes are included.
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
Engine may be identified from Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) stamped on a metal tab. Metal tab may be
located in different locations depending on manufacturer. Engine identification number or serial number is
located on cylinder block. Location varies with each manufacturer.
INSPECTION PROCEDURES
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
GENERAL
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Engine components must be inspected to meet manufacturer's specifications and tolerances during overhaul.
Proper dimensions and tolerances must be met to obtain proper performance and maximum engine life.
Micrometers, depth gauges and dial indicator are used for checking tolerances during engine overhaul.
Magnaflux, Magnaglo, dye-check, ultrasonic and x-ray inspection procedures are used for parts inspection.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Magnaflux is an inspection technique used to locate material flaws and stress cracks. Component is subjected to
a strong magnetic field. Entire component or a localized area can be magnetized. Component is coated with
either a wet or dry material that contains fine magnetic particles.
Cracks which are outlined by the particles cause an interruption of magnetic field. Dry powder method of
Magnaflux can be used in normal lighting and crack appears as a bright line.
Fluorescent liquid is used along with a Black light in the Magnaglo Magnaflux system. Darkened room is
required for this procedure. The crack will appear as a glowing line. Complete demagnetizing of component
upon completion is required on both procedures. Magnetic particle inspection applies to ferrous materials only.
PENETRANT INSPECTION
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
The Zyglo process coats material with a fluorescent dye penetrant. Component is often warmed to expand
cracks that will be penetrated by the dye. Using darkened room and Black light, component is inspected for
cracks. Crack will glow brightly.
Developing solution is often used to enhance results. Parts made of any material, such as aluminum cylinder
heads or plastics, may be tested using this process.
Dye Check
Penetrating dye is sprayed on the previously cleaned component. Dye is left on component for 5-45 minutes,
depending upon material density. Component is then wiped clean and sprayed with a developing solution.
Surface cracks will show up as a bright line.
ULTRASONIC INSPECTION
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
If an expensive part is suspected of internal cracking, ultrasonic testing is used. Sound waves are used for
component inspection.
X-RAY INSPECTION
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
This form of inspection is used on highly stressed components. X-ray inspection may be used to detect internal
and external flaws in any material.
PRESSURE TESTING
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Cylinder heads can be tested for cracks using a pressure tester. Pressure testing is performed by plugging all but
one of the holes of cylinder head and injecting air or water into the open passage.
Leaks are indicated by the appearance of wet or damp areas when using water. When air is used, it is necessary
to spray the head surface with a soap solution. Bubbles will indicate a leak. Cylinder head may also be
submerged in water heated to specified temperature to check for cracks created during heat expansion.
CLEANING PROCEDURES
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
GENERAL
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
All components of an engine do not have the same cleaning requirements. Physical methods include bead
blasting and manual removal. Chemical methods include solvent blast, solvent tank, hot tank, cold tank and
steam cleaning of components.
BEAD BLASTING
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Manual removal of deposits may be required prior to bead blasting, followed by some other cleaning method.
Carbon, paint and rust may be removed using bead blasting method. Components must be free of oil and grease
prior to bead blasting. Beads will stick to grease or oil soaked areas causing area not to be cleaned.
Use air pressure to remove all trapped residual beads from component after cleaning. After cleaning internal
engine parts made of aluminum, wash thoroughly with hot soapy water. Component must be thoroughly cleaned
as glass beads will enter engine oil resulting in bearing damage.
CHEMICAL CLEANING
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Solvent tank is used for cleaning oily residue from components. Solvent blasting sprays solvent through a
siphon gun using compressed air.
The hot tank, using heated caustic solvents, is used for cleaning ferrous materials only. DO NOT clean
aluminum parts such as cylinder heads, bearings or other soft metals using the hot tank. After cleaning, flush
parts with hot water.
A non-ferrous part will be ruined and caustic solution will be diluted if placed in the hot tank. Always use eye
protection and gloves when using the hot tank.
Use of a cold tank is for cleaning aluminum cylinder heads, carburetors and other soft metals. A less caustic and
unheated solution is used. Parts may be left in the tank for several hours without damage. After cleaning, flush
parts with hot water.
Steam cleaning, with boiling hot water sprayed at high pressure, is recommended as the final cleaning process
when using either hot or cold tank cleaning.
COMPONENT CLEANING
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Examples of sheet metal parts are rocker covers, front and side covers, oil pan and bellhousing dust cover. Glass
bead blasting or hot tank may be used for cleaning.
Ensure all mating surfaces are flat. Deformed surfaces should be straightened. Check all sheet metal parts for
cracks and dents.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Using solvent cleaning or bead blasting, clean manifolds for inspection. If intake manifold has an exhaust
crossover, all carbon deposits must be removed. Inspect manifolds for cracks, burned or eroded areas, corrosion
and damage to fasteners.
Exhaust heat and products of combustion cause threads of fasteners to corrode. Replace studs and bolts as
necessary. On "V" type intake manifolds, sheet metal oil shield must be removed for proper cleaning and
inspection. Ensure all manifold parting surfaces are flat and free of burrs.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
REMOVAL
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Remove intake and exhaust manifolds and valve cover. Cylinder head and camshaft carrier bolts (if equipped)
should be removed only when engine is cold. On many aluminum cylinder heads, removal while hot will cause
cylinder head warpage. Mark rocker arm or overhead cam components for location.
Remove rocker arm components or overhead cam components. Components must be installed in original
location. Individual design rocker arms may utilize shafts, ball-type pedestal mounts or no rocker arms. For all
design types, wire components together and identify according to corresponding valve. Remove cylinder head
bolts. Note length and location. Some applications require cylinder head bolts be removed in proper sequence to
prevent cylinder head damage. See Fig. 1. Remove cylinder head.
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Ensure all surfaces and head bolts are clean. Check that head bolt holes of cylinder block are clean and dry to
prevent block damage when bolts are tightened. Clean threads with tap to ensure accurate bolt torque.
Install head gasket on cylinder block. Some manufacturers may recommend sealant be applied to head gasket
prior to installation. Note that all holes are aligned. Some gasket applications may be marked so that certain area
faces upward. Install cylinder head using care not to damage head gasket. Ensure cylinder head is fully seated
on cylinder block.
Some applications require head bolts be coated with sealant prior to installation. This is done if head bolts are
exposed to coolant passages. Some applications require head bolts be coated with light coat of engine oil.
Install head bolts. Head bolts should be tightened in proper steps and sequence to specification. See Fig. 1.
Install remaining components. Tighten all bolts to specification. Adjust valves if required. See VALVE
ADJUSTMENT.
NOTE: Some manufacturers require that head bolts be retightened after specified
amount of operation. This must be done to prevent head gasket failure.
VALVE ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
On some models, adjustment is not required. Rocker arms are tightened to specification and valve lash is
automatically set. On some models with push rod actuated valve train, adjustment is made at push rod end of
rocker arm while other models do not require adjustment.
Clearance will be checked between tip of rocker arm and tip of valve stem in proper sequence using a feeler
gauge. Adjustment is made by rotating adjusting screw until proper clearance is obtained. Lock nut is then
tightened. Engine will be rotated to obtain all valve adjustments to manufacturer's specifications.
Some models require hydraulic lifter to be bled down and clearance measured. Push rods of different length can
be used to obtain proper clearance. Clearance will be checked between tip of rocker arm and tip of valve stem in
proper sequence using a feeler gauge.
Overhead cam engines designed without rocker arms actuate valves directly on a cam follower. A hardened,
removable disc is installed between the cam lobe and lifter. Clearance will be checked between cam heel and
adjusting disc in proper sequence using a feeler gauge. Engine will be rotated to obtain all valve adjustments.
On overhead cam engines designed with rocker arms, adjustment is made at valve end of rocker arm. Ensure
valve to be adjusted is riding on heel of cam on all engines. Clearance will be checked between tip of rocker
arm and tip of valve stem in proper sequence using a feeler gauge. Adjustment is made by rotating adjusting
screw until proper clearance is obtained. Lock nut is then tightened. Engine will be rotated to obtain all valve
adjustments to manufacturer's specifications.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Mark valves for location. Using valve spring compressor, compress valve springs. Remove valve locks.
Carefully release spring compressor. Remove retainer or rotator, valve spring, spring seat and valve. See Fig. 2.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Clean cylinder head and valve components using approved cleaning methods. Inspect cylinder head for cracks,
damage or warped gasket surface. Place straightedge across gasket surface. Determine clearance at center of
straightedge. Measure across both diagonals, longitudinal center line and across cylinder head at several points.
See Fig. 3.
On cast iron cylinder heads, if warpage exceeds .003" (.08 mm) in a 6" span, or .006" (.15 mm) over total
length, cylinder head must be resurfaced. On most aluminum cylinder heads, if warpage exceeds .002" (.05
mm) in any area, cylinder head must be resurfaced. Warpage specification may vary by manufacturer. If
warpage exceeds specification on some cylinder heads, cylinder head must be replaced.
Cylinder head thickness should be measured to determine amount of material which can be removed before
replacement is required. Cylinder head thickness must not be less than the manufacturer's specification.
If cylinder head required resurfacing, it may not align properly with intake manifold. On "V" type engines,
misalignment is corrected by machining intake manifold surface that contacts cylinder head. Cylinder head may
be machined on surface that contacts intake manifold. Using oil stone, remove burrs or scratches from all
sealing surfaces.
VALVE SPRINGS
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Inspect valve springs for squareness using a 90-degree straightedge. See Fig. 4. Replace valve spring if out-of-
square exceeds manufacturer's specification.
Using vernier caliper, measure free length of all valve springs. Replace springs if not within specification.
Using valve spring tester, test valve spring pressure at installed and compressed heights. See Fig. 5.
Usually compressed height is installed height minus valve lift. Replace valve spring if not within specification.
It is recommended to replace all valve springs when overhauling cylinder head. Valve springs may need to be
installed with color coded end or small coils at specified area according to manufacturer.
Fig. 5: Checking Valve Spring Pressure
VALVE GUIDE
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Check valve stem-to-guide clearance. Ensure valve stem diameter is within specification. Install valve in valve
guide. Install dial indicator assembly on cylinder head with tip resting against valve stem just above valve
guide. See Fig. 6.
Lower valve approximately 1/16" below valve seat. Push valve stem against valve guide as far as possible.
Adjust dial indicator to zero. Push valve stem in opposite direction and note reading. Clearance must be within
specification.
If valve guide clearance exceeds specification, valves with oversize stems may be used and valve guides are
reamed to larger size or valve guide must be replaced. On some applications, a false guide is installed, then
reamed to proper specification. Valve guide reamer set is used to ream valve guide to obtain proper clearance
for new valve.
Reaming Valve Guide
Select proper reamer for size of valve stem. Reamer must be of proper length to provide clean cut through entire
length of valve guide. Install reamer in valve guide and rotate to cut valve guide. See Fig. 7.
Fig. 7: Reaming Valve Guides
Replacing Valve Guide
Replace valve guide if clearance exceeds specification. Valve guides are either pressed, hammered or shrunk in
place, depending upon cylinder head design and type of metal used.
Remove valve guide from cylinder head by pressing or tapping on a stepped drift. See Fig. 8. Once valve guide
is installed, distance from cylinder head to top of valve guide must be checked. This distance must be within
specification.
Aluminum heads are often heated before installing valve guide. Valve guide is sometimes cooled in dry ice
prior to installation. Combination of a heated cylinder head and cooled valve guide ensures a tight guide fit
upon assembly. The new guide must be reamed to specification.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Valve Grinding
Valve stem O.D. should be measured in several areas to indicate amount of wear. Replace valve if not within
specification. Valve margin area should be measured to ensure that valve can be ground. See Fig. 9.
If valve margin is less than specification, the valves will be burned. Valve must be replaced. Due to minimum
margin dimensions during manufacture, some new type valves cannot be reground. Some manufacturers use
stellite coated valves that must NOT be machined. Valves can only be lapped into valve seat.
CAUTION: Some valves are sodium filled. Extreme care must be used when
disposing of damaged or worn sodium-filled valves.
Resurface valve to proper angle specification using valve grinding machine. Follow manufacturer's instructions
for valve grinding machine. Specifications may indicate a different valve face angle than seat angle. Measure
valve margin after grinding. Replace valve if not within specification. Valve stem tip can be refinished using
valve grinding machine.
Valve Lapping
During valve lapping of recently designed valves, be sure to follow manufacturer's recommendations. Surface
hardening and materials used with some valves do not permit lapping. Lapping process will remove excessive
amounts of the hardened surface.
Valve lapping is done to ensure adequate sealing between valve face and seat. Use either a hand drill or lapping
stick with suction cup attached.
Moisten and attach suction cup to valve. Lubricate valve stem and guide. Apply a thin coat of fine valve
grinding compound between valve and seat. Rotate lapping tool between the palms or with hand drill.
Lift valve upward off the seat and change position often. This is done to prevent grooving of valve seat. Lap
valve until a smooth polished seat is obtained. Thoroughly clean grinding compound from components. Valve-
to-valve seat concentricity should be checked. See VALVE SEAT CONCENTRICITY.
CAUTION: Valve guides must be in good condition and free of carbon deposits prior
to valve seat grinding. Some engines contain an induction hardened valve
seat. Excessive material removal will damage valve seats.
Select coarse stone of correct size and angle for seat to be ground. Ensure stone is true and has a smooth
surface. Select correct size pilot for valve guide dimension. Install pilot in valve guide. Lightly lubricate pilot
shaft. Install stone on pilot. Move stone off and on the seat approximately 2 times per second during grinding
operation.
Select a fine stone to finish grinding operation. Various angle grinding stones are used to center and narrow the
valve seat as required. See Fig. 10.
Replacement of valve seat inserts is done by cutting out the old insert and machining an oversize insert bore.
Replacement oversize insert is usually cooled and the cylinder head is sometimes warmed. Valve seat is pressed
into the head. This operation requires specialized machine shop equipment.
Valve Seat Concentricity
Using dial gauge, install gauge pilot in valve guide. Position gauge arm on the valve seat. Adjust dial indicator
to zero. Rotate arm 360 degrees and note reading. Runout should not exceed specification.
To check valve-to-valve seat concentricity, coat valve face lightly with Prussian Blue dye. Install valve and
rotate it on valve seat. If pattern is even and entire seat is coated at valve contact point, valve is concentric with
the valve seat.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Valve stem installed height must be checked when new valves are installed or when valves or valve seats have
been ground. Install valve in valve guide. Measure distance from tip of valve stem to spring seat. See Fig. 11.
Distance must be within specification to allow sufficient clearance for valve operation.
Remove valve and grind valve stem tip if height exceeds specification. Valve tips are surface hardened. DO
NOT remove more than .010" (.25 mm) from tip. Chamfer sharp edge of reground valve tip. Recheck valve
stem installed height.
Fig. 11: Measuring Valve Stem Installed Height
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Valve stem oil seals must be installed on valve stem. See Fig. 2. Seals are needed due to pressure differential at
the ends of valve guides. Atmospheric pressure above intake guide, combined with manifold vacuum below
guide, causes oil to be drawn into the cylinder.
Exhaust guides also have pressure differential created by exhaust gas flowing past the guide, creating a low
pressure area. This low pressure area draws oil into the exhaust system.
Some manufacturers require that special color code or specified height valve stem oil seal be installed in
designated area.
Replacement (On-Vehicle)
Mark rocker arm or overhead cam components for location. Remove rocker arm components or overhead cam
components. Components must be installed in original location. Remove spark plugs. Valve stem oil seals may
be replaced by holding valves against seats using air pressure.
Air pressure must be installed in cylinder using an adapter for spark plug hole. An adapter can be constructed by
welding air hose connection to spark plug body with porcelain removed.
Rotate engine until piston is at top of stroke. Install adapter in spark plug hole. Apply a minimum of 140 psi
(9.8 kg/cm2 ) line pressure to adapter. Air pressure should hold valve closed. If air pressure does not hold valve
closed, check for damaged or bent valve. Cylinder head must be removed for service.
Using valve spring compressor, compress valve springs. Remove valve locks. Carefully release spring
compressor. Remove retainer or rotator and valve spring. Remove valve stem oil seal.
If oversize valves have been installed, oversize oil seals must be used. Coat valve stem with engine oil. Install
protective sleeve over end of valve stem. Install new oil seal over valve stem and seat on valve guide. Remove
protective sleeve. Install spring seat, valve spring and retainer or rotator. Compress spring and install valve
locks. Remove spring compressor. Ensure valve locks are fully seated.
Install rocker arms or overhead cam components. Tighten all bolts to specification. Adjust valves if required.
Remove adapter. Install spark plugs, valve cover and gasket.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Valve spring installed height should be checked during reassembly. Measure height from lower edge of valve
spring to the upper edge. DO NOT include valve spring seat or retainer. Distance must be within specification.
If valves and/or seats have been ground, a valve spring shim may be required to correct spring height. See Fig.
12.
Fig. 12: Measuring Valve Spring Installed Height
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Rocker Studs
Rocker studs are either threaded or pressed in place. Threaded studs are removed by locking 2 nuts on the stud.
Unscrew the stud by turning the jam nut. Coat new stud threads with Loctite and install. Tighten to
specification.
Pressed-in stud can be removed using a stud puller. Ream stud bore to proper specification and press in a new
oversize stud. Pressed-in studs are often replaced by cutting threads in the stud bore to accept a threaded stud.
Mark rocker arms for location. Remove rocker arm retaining bolts. Remove rocker arms. Inspect rocker arms,
shafts, bushings and pivot balls (if equipped) for excessive wear. Inspect rocker arms for wear in valve stem
contact area. Measure rocker arm bushing I.D. Replace bushings if excessively worn.
The rocker arm valve stem contact point may be reground, using special fixture for valve grinding machine.
Remove minimum amount of material as possible. Ensure all oil passages are clear. Install rocker arm
components in original location. Ensure rocker arm is properly seated in push rod. Tighten bolts to
specification. Adjust valves if required. See VALVE ADJUSTMENT.
PUSH RODS
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Remove rocker arms. Mark push rods for location. Remove push rods. Push rods can be steel or aluminum,
solid or hollow. Hollow push rods must be internally cleaned to ensure oil passage to rocker arms is cleaned.
Check push rods for damage, such as loose ends on steel tipped aluminum types.
Check push rod for straightness. Roll push rod on a flat surface. Using feeler gauge, check clearance at center.
Replace push rod if bent. The push rod can also be supported at each end and rotated. A dial indicator is used to
detect a bent area in the push rod.
Lubricate ends of push rod and install push rod in original location. Ensure push rod is properly seated in lifter.
Install rocker arm. Tighten bolts to specification. Adjust valves if required. See VALVE ADJUSTMENT.
LIFTERS
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Hydraulic Lifters
Before replacing a hydraulic lifter for noisy operation, ensure noise is not caused by worn rocker arms or valve
tips. Also ensure sufficient oil pressure exists. Hydraulic lifters must be installed in original location. Remove
rocker arm assembly and push rod. Mark components for location. Some applications require intake manifold,
cylinder head or lifter cover removal. Remove lifter retainer plate (if used). To remove lifters, use a hydraulic
lifter remover or magnet. Different type lifters are used. See Fig. 13.
On sticking lifters, disassemble and clean lifter. DO NOT mix lifter components or positions. Parts are select-
fitted and are not interchangeable. Inspect all components for wear. Note amount of wear in lifter body-to-
camshaft contact area. Surface must have smooth and convex contact face. If wear is apparent, carefully inspect
cam lobe.
Inspect push rod contact area and lifter body for scoring or signs of wear. If body is scored, inspect lifter bore
for damage and lack of lubrication. On roller type lifters, inspect roller for flaking, pitting, loss of needle
bearings and roughness during rotation.
Measure lifter body O.D. in several areas. Measure lifter bore I.D. Ensure components or oil clearance is within
specification. Some models offer oversize lifters. Replace lifter if damaged.
If lifter check valve is not operating, obstructions may be preventing it from closing or valve spring may be
broken. Clean or replace components as necessary.
Check plunger operation. Plunger should drop to bottom of the body by its own weight when assembled dry. If
plunger is not free, soak lifter in solvent to dissolve deposits.
Lifter leak-down test can be performed on lifter. Lifter must be filled with special test oil. New lifters contain
special test oil. Using lifter leak-down tester, perform leak-down test following manufacturer's instructions. If
leak-down time is not within specifications, replace lifter assembly.
Lifters should be soaked in clean engine oil several hours prior to installation. Coat lifter base, roller (if
equipped) and lifter body with ample amount of Molykote or camshaft lubricant. See Fig. 13. Install lifter in
original location. Install remaining components. Valve lash adjustment is not required on most hydraulic lifters.
Preload of hydraulic lifter is automatic. Some models may require adjustment.
Mechanical Lifters
Lifter assemblies must be installed in original locations. Remove rocker arm assembly and push rod. Mark
components for location. Some applications require intake manifold or lifter cover removal. Remove lifter
retainer plate (if used). To remove lifters, use lifter remover or magnet.
Inspect push rod contact area and lifter body for scoring or signs of wear. If body is scored, inspect lifter bore
for damage and lack of lubrication. Note amount of wear in lifter body-to-camshaft contact area. Surface must
have smooth and convex contact face. If wear is apparent, carefully inspect cam lobe.
Coat lifter base, roller (if equipped) and lifter body with ample amount of Molykote or camshaft lubricant.
Install lifter in original location. Install remaining components. Tighten bolts to specification. Adjust valves.
See VALVE ADJUSTMENT.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
RIDGE REMOVAL
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Ridge in cylinder wall must be removed prior to piston removal. Failure to remove ridge prior to removing
pistons will cause piston damage in piston ring lands or grooves.
With piston at bottom dead center, place rag in bore to trap metal chips. Install ridge reamer in cylinder bore.
Adjust ridge reamer using manufacturer's instructions. Remove ridge using ridge reamer. DO NOT remove an
excessive amount of material. Ensure ridge is completely removed.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Always refer to appropriate engine overhaul article, if available, in the ENGINES
section for complete overhaul procedures and specifications for the vehicle
being repaired.
Note top of piston. Some pistons may contain a notch, arrow or be marked FRONT. Piston must be installed in
proper direction to prevent damage with valve operation.
Check that connecting rod and cap are numbered for cylinder location and which side of cylinder block the
number faces. Proper cap and connecting rod must be installed together. Connecting rod cap must be installed
on connecting rod in proper direction to ensure bearing lock procedure. Mark connecting rod and cap if
necessary. Pistons must be installed in original location.
Remove cap retaining nuts or bolts. Remove bearing cap. Install tubing protectors on connecting rod bolts. This
protects cylinder walls from scoring during removal. Ensure proper removal of ridge. Push piston and
connecting rod from cylinder. Connecting rod boss can be tapped with a wooden dowel or hammer handle to
aid in removal.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Disassembly
Using ring expander, remove piston rings. Remove piston pin retaining rings (if equipped). Note direction of
piston installation on connecting rod. On pressed type piston pins, special fixtures and procedures according to
manufacturer must be used to remove piston pins. Follow manufacturer's recommendations to avoid piston
distortion or breakage.
Cleaning
Remove all carbon and varnish from piston. Pistons and connecting rods may be cleaned in cold type chemical
tank. Using ring groove cleaner, clean all deposits from ring grooves. Ensure all deposits are cleaned from ring
grooves to prevent ring breakage or sticking. DO NOT attempt to clean pistons with wire brush.
Inspection
Inspect pistons for nicks, scoring, cracks or damage in ring areas. Connecting rod should be checked for cracks
using Magnaflux procedure. Piston diameter must be measured in manufacturer's specified area.
Using telescopic gauge and micrometer, measure piston pin bore of piston in 2 areas, 90 degrees apart. This is
done to check diameter and out-of-round.
Install proper bearing cap on connecting rod. Ensure bearing cap is installed in proper location. Tighten bolts or
nuts to specification. Using inside micrometer, measure inside diameter in 2 areas, 90 degrees apart.
Connecting rod I.D. and out-of-round must be within specification. Measure piston pin bore I.D. and piston pin
O.D. All components must be within specification. Subtract piston pin diameter from piston pin bore in piston
and connecting rod to determine proper fit.
Connecting rod length must be measured from center of crankshaft journal inside diameter to center of piston
pin bushing using proper caliper. Connecting rods must be the same length. Connecting rods should be checked
on an alignment fixture for bent or twisted condition. Replace all components which are damaged or not within
specification.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Ensure cylinder is checked for taper, out-of-round and properly honed prior to checking piston and cylinder
bore fit. See CYLINDER BLOCK. Using dial bore gauge, measure cylinder bore.
Measure piston skirt diameter at 90 degree angle to piston pin at specified area by manufacturer. Subtract piston
diameter from cylinder bore diameter to determine piston-to-cylinder clearance. Clearance must be within
specification. Mark piston for proper cylinder location.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Install piston on connecting rod for corresponding cylinder. Ensure reference marking on top of piston
corresponds with connecting rod and cap number. See Fig. 14.
Lubricate piston pin and install in connecting rod. Ensure piston pin retainers are fully seated (if equipped). On
pressed type piston pins, follow manufacturer's recommended procedure to avoid distortion or breakage.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Piston rings must be checked for side clearance and end gap. To check end gap, install piston ring in cylinder in
which it is to be installed. Using an inverted piston, push ring to bottom of cylinder in smallest cylinder
diameter.
Using feeler gauge, check ring end gap. See Fig. 15. Piston ring end gap must be within specification. Ring
breakage will occur if insufficient ring end gap exists.
Some manufacturers permit correcting insufficient ring end gap by using a fine file while other manufacturers
recommend using another ring set. Mark rings for proper cylinder installation after checking end gap.
For checking side clearance, install rings on piston. Using feeler gauge, measure clearance between piston ring
and piston ring land. Check side clearance in several areas around piston. Side clearance must be within
specification.
If side clearance is excessive, piston ring grooves can be machined to accept oversize piston rings (if available).
Normal practice is to replace piston.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Cylinders must be honed prior to piston installation. See CYLINDER HONING under CYLINDER BLOCK.
Install upper connecting rod bearings. Lubricate upper bearings with engine oil. Install lower bearings in rod
caps. Ensure bearing tabs are properly seated. Position piston ring gaps according to manufacturer's
recommendations. See Fig. 16. Lubricate pistons, rings and cylinder walls.
Fig. 16: Positioning Typical Piston Ring End Gap
Install ring compressor. Use care not to rotate piston rings. Compress rings with ring compressor. Install plastic
tubing protectors over connecting rod bolts. Install piston and connecting rod assembly. Ensure piston notch,
arrow or FRONT mark is toward front of engine. See Fig. 17.
Carefully tap piston into cylinder until rod bearing is seated on crankshaft journal. Remove protectors. Install
rod cap and bearing. Lightly tighten connecting rod bolts. Repeat procedure for remaining cylinders. Check
bearing clearance. See MAIN & CONNECTING ROD BEARING CLEARANCE.
Once clearance is checked, lubricate journals and bearings. Install bearing caps. Ensure marks are aligned on
connecting rod and cap. Tighten rod nuts or bolts to specification. Ensure rod moves freely on crankshaft.
Check connecting rod side clearance. See CONNECTING ROD SIDE CLEARANCE.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Position connecting rod toward one side of crankshaft as far as possible. Using feeler gauge, measure clearance
between side of connecting rod and crankshaft. See Fig. 18. Clearance must be within specification.
Check for improper bearing installation, wrong bearing cap or insufficient bearing clearance if side clearance is
insufficient. Connecting rod may require machining to obtain proper clearance. Excessive clearance usually
indicates excessive wear at crankshaft. Crankshaft must be repaired or replaced.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Always refer to appropriate engine overhaul article, if available, in the ENGINES
section for complete overhaul procedures and specifications for the vehicle
being repaired.
Plastigage Method
Plastigage method may be used to determine bearing clearance. Plastigage can be used with an engine in service
or during reassembly. Plastigage material is oil soluble.
Ensure journals and bearings are free of oil or solvent. Oil or solvent will dissolve material and false reading
will be obtained. Install small piece of Plastigage along full length of bearing journal. Install bearing cap in
original location. Tighten bolts to specification.
Remove bearing cap. Compare Plastigage width with scale on Plastigage container to determine bearing
clearance. See Fig. 19. Rotate crankshaft 90 degrees. Repeat procedure. This is done to check journal
eccentricity. This procedure can be used to check oil clearance on both connecting rod and main bearings.
Fig. 19: Measuring Bearing Clearance
A micrometer is used to determine journal diameter, taper and out-of-round dimensions of the crankshaft. See
CLEANING & INSPECTION under CRANKSHAFT & MAIN BEARINGS in this article.
With crankshaft removed, install bearings and caps in original location on cylinder block. Tighten bolts to
specification. On connecting rods, install bearings and caps on connecting rods. Install proper connecting rod
cap on corresponding rod. Ensure bearing cap is installed in original location. Tighten bolts to specification.
Using a telescopic gauge and micrometer or inside micrometer, measure inside diameter of connecting rod and
main bearings bores. Subtract each crankshaft journal diameter from the corresponding inside bearing bore
diameter. This is the bearing clearance.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
REMOVAL
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Ensure all main bearing caps are marked for location on cylinder block. Some main bearing caps have an arrow
stamped on them. The arrow must face timing belt or timing chain end of engine. Remove main bearing cap
bolts. Remove main bearing caps. Carefully remove crankshaft. Use care not to bind crankshaft in cylinder
block during removal.
Thoroughly clean crankshaft using solvent. Dry with compressed air. Ensure all oil passages are clear and free
of sludge, rust, dirt and metal chips.
Inspect crankshaft for scoring and nicks. Inspect crankshaft for cracks using Magnaflux procedure. Inspect rear
seal area for grooving or damage. Inspect bolt hole threads for damage. If pilot bearing or bushing is used,
check pilot bearing or bushing fit in crankshaft. Inspect crankshaft gear for damaged or cracked teeth. Replace
gear if damaged. Ensure oil passage plugs are tight (if equipped).
Using micrometer, measure all journals in 4 areas to determine journal taper, out-of-round and undersize. See
Fig. 20. Some crankshafts can be reground to the next largest undersize, depending on the amount of wear or
damage. Crankshafts with rolled fillet cannot be reground and must be replaced.
Fig. 20: Measuring Crankshaft Journals
Crankshaft journal runout should be checked. Install crankshaft in "V" blocks or bench center. Position dial
indicator with tip resting on the main bearing journal area. See Fig. 21. Rotate crankshaft and note reading.
Journal runout must not exceed specification. Repeat procedure on all main bearing journals. Crankshaft must
be replaced if runout exceeds specification.
Fig. 21: Measuring Crankshaft Main Bearing Journal Runout
INSTALLATION
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Install upper main bearing in cylinder block. Ensure lock tab is properly located in cylinder block. Install
bearings in main bearing caps. Ensure all oil passages are aligned. Install rear seal (if removed).
Ensure crankshaft journals are clean. Lubricate upper main bearings with clean engine oil. Carefully install
crankshaft. Check each main bearing clearance using Plastigage method. See MAIN & CONNECTING ROD
BEARING CLEARANCE.
Once clearance is checked, lubricate lower main bearing and journals. Install main bearing caps in original
location. Install rear seal in rear main bearing cap (if removed). Some rear main bearing caps require sealant to
be applied in corners to prevent oil leakage.
Install and tighten all bolts except thrust bearing cap to specification. Tighten thrust bearing cap bolts finger
tight only. Some models require that thrust bearing be aligned. On most applications, crankshaft must be moved
rearward then forward. Procedure may vary with manufacturer. Thrust bearing cap is then tightened to
specification. Ensure crankshaft rotates freely. Crankshaft end play should be checked. See CRANKSHAFT
END PLAY.
CRANKSHAFT END PLAY
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Crankshaft end play can be checked using dial indicator. Mount dial indicator on rear of cylinder block.
Position dial indicator tip against rear of crankshaft. Ensure tip is resting against flat surface.
Pry crankshaft rearward. Adjust dial indicator to zero. Pry crankshaft forward and note reading. Crankshaft end
play must be within specification. If end play is not within specification, check for faulty thrust bearing
installation or worn crankshaft. Some applications offer oversize thrust bearings.
Crankshaft end play can be checked using feeler gauge. Pry crankshaft rearward. Pry crankshaft forward. Using
feeler gauge, measure clearance between crankshaft and thrust bearing surface. See Fig. 22.
Fig. 22: Checking Crankshaft End Play
Crankshaft end play must be within specification. If end play is not within specification, check for faulty thrust
bearing installation or worn crankshaft. Some applications offer oversize thrust bearings.
CYLINDER BLOCK
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Block Cleaning
Only cast cylinder blocks should be hot tank cleaned. Aluminum cylinder blocks should be cleaned using cold
tank method. Cylinder block is cleaned in order to remove carbon deposits, gasket residue and water jacket
scale. Remove oil gallery plugs, freeze plugs and cam bearings before cleaning block.
Block Inspection
Visually inspect the block. Check suspected areas for cracks using the Dye Penetrant inspection method. Block
may be checked for cracks using the Magnaflux method.
Cracks are most commonly found at the bottom of cylinders, main bearing saddles, near expansion plugs and
between cylinders and water jackets. Inspect lifter bores for damage. Inspect all head bolt holes for damaged
threads. Threads should be cleaned using tap to ensure proper head bolt torque. Consult machine shop
concerning possible welding and machining (if required).
Inspect bore for scoring or roughness. Cylinder bore is dimensionally checked for out-of-round and taper using
dial bore gauge. For determining out-of-round, measure cylinder parallel and perpendicular to the block center
line. Difference in the 2 readings is the bore out-of-round. Cylinder bore must be checked at top, middle and
bottom of piston travel area.
Bore taper is obtained by measuring bore at the top and bottom. If wear has exceeded allowable limits, block
must be honed or bored to next available oversize piston dimension.
Cylinder Honing
Cylinder must be properly honed to allow new piston rings to properly seat. Cross-hatching at correct angle and
depth is critical to lubrication of cylinder walls and pistons.
A flexible drive hone and power drill are commonly used. Drive hone must be lubricated during operation. Mix
equal parts of kerosene and SAE 20W engine oil for lubrication.
Apply lubrication to cylinder wall. Operate cylinder hone from top to bottom of cylinder using even strokes to
produce 45 degree cross-hatch pattern on the cylinder wall. DO NOT allow cylinder hone to extend below
cylinder during operation.
Recheck bore dimension after final honing. Wash cylinder wall with hot soapy water to remove abrasive
particles. Blow dry with compressed air. Coat cleaned cylinder walls with lubricating oil.
Deck Warpage
Check deck for damage or warped gasket surface. Place a straightedge across gasket surface of the deck. Using
feeler gauge, measure clearance at center of straightedge. Measure across width and length of cylinder block at
several points.
If warpage exceeds specifications, deck must be resurfaced. If warpage exceeds manufacturer's maximum
tolerance for material removal, replace block.
NOTE: Some manufacturers recommend that a total amount of material (cylinder head
and cylinder block) can only be removed before components must be replaced.
Deck Height
Distance from crankshaft center line to block deck is called the deck height. Measure and record front and rear
main journals of crankshaft. To compute this distance, install crankshaft and retain with center main bearing and
cap only. Measure distance from crankshaft journal to block deck, parallel to cylinder center line.
Add one half of main bearing journal diameter to distance from crankshaft journal to block deck. This
dimension should be checked at front and rear of cylinder block. Both readings should be the same.
If difference exceeds specification, cylinder block must be repaired or replaced. Deck height and warpage
should be corrected at the same time.
For checking main bearing bore, remove all bearings from cylinder block and main bearing caps. Install main
bearing caps in original location. Tighten bolts to specification. Using inside micrometer, measure main bearing
bore in 2 areas 90 degrees apart. Determine bore size and out-of-round. If diameter is not within specification,
block must be align-bored.
For checking alignment, place a straightedge along center line of main bearing saddles. Check for clearance
between straightedge and main bearing saddles. Block must be align-bored if clearance exists.
Drill hole in center of expansion plug. Remove with screwdriver or punch. Use care not to damage sealing
surface.
Ensure sealing surface is free of burrs. Coat expansion plug with sealer. Using wooden dowel or pipe of slightly
smaller diameter, install expansion plug. Ensure expansion plug is evenly located.
Remove threaded oil gallery plugs using appropriate wrench. Soft press-in plugs are removed by drilling into
plug and installing a sheet metal screw. Remove plug with slide hammer or pliers.
Ensure threads or sealing surface is clean. Coat threaded oil gallery plugs with sealer and install. Replacement
soft press-in plugs are installed with a hammer and drift.
CAMSHAFT
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Clean camshaft with solvent. Ensure all oil passages are clear. Inspect cam lobes and bearing journals for
pitting, flaking or scoring. Using micrometer, measure bearing journal O.D.
Support camshaft at each end with "V" blocks. Position dial indicator with tip resting on center bearing journal.
Rotate camshaft and note camshaft runout reading. If reading exceeds specification, replace camshaft.
Check cam lobe lift by measuring base circle of camshaft using micrometer. Measure again at 90-degree angle
to tip of cam lobe. Cam lift can be determined by subtracting base circle diameter from tip of cam lobe
measurement.
Different lift dimensions are given for intake and exhaust cam lobes. Reading must be within specification.
Replace camshaft if cam lobes or bearing journals are not within specification.
Inspect camshaft gear for chipped, eroded or damaged teeth. Replace gear if damaged. On camshafts using
thrust plate, measure distance between thrust plate and camshaft shoulder. Replace thrust plate if not within
specification.
CAMSHAFT BEARINGS
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Remove camshaft rear plug. Camshaft bearing remover is assembled with shoulder resting against bearing to be
removed according to manufacturer's instructions. Tighten puller nut until bearing is removed. Remove
remaining bearings, leaving front and rear bearings until last. These bearings act as a guide for camshaft bearing
remover.
To install new bearings, puller is rearranged to pull bearings toward the center of block. Ensure all lubrication
passages of bearing are aligned with cylinder block. Coat new camshaft rear plug with sealant. Install camshaft
rear plug. Ensure plug is even in cylinder block.
CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Lubricate bearing surfaces and cam lobes with ample amount of Molykote or camshaft lubricant. Carefully
install camshaft. Use care not to damage bearing journals during installation. Install thrust plate retaining bolts
(if equipped). Tighten bolts to specification. On overhead camshafts, install bearing caps in original location.
Tighten bolts to specification. On all applications, check camshaft end play.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Using dial indicator, check camshaft end play. Position dial indicator on front of engine block or cylinder head.
Position indicator tip against camshaft. Push camshaft toward rear of cylinder head or engine and adjust
indicator to zero.
Move camshaft forward and note reading. Camshaft end play must be within specification. End play may be
adjusted by relocating gear, shimming thrust plate or replacing thrust plate depending on each manufacturer.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
TIMING CHAINS
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Timing chains will stretch during operation. Limits are placed upon amount of stretch before replacement is
required. Timing chain stretch will alter ignition timing and valve timing.
To check timing chain stretch, rotate crankshaft to eliminate slack from one side of timing chain. Mark
reference point on cylinder block. Rotate crankshaft in opposite direction to eliminate slack from remaining side
of timing chain. Force other side of chain outward and measure distance between reference point and timing
chain. See Fig. 23. Replace timing chain and gears if not within specification.
Fig. 23: Measuring Timing Chain Stretch
Timing chains must be installed so timing marks on camshaft gear and crankshaft gear are aligned according to
manufacturer. See Fig. 24.
Fig. 24: Typical Gear Timing Mark Alignment
TIMING BELTS
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Cogged tooth belts are commonly used on overhead cam engines. Inspect belt teeth for rounded corners or
cracking. Replace belt if it is cracked, damaged, missing teeth or oil soaked.
Used timing belt must be installed in original direction of rotation. Inspect all sprocket teeth for wear. Replace
all worn sprockets. Sprockets are marked for timing purposes. Engine is positioned so that crankshaft sprocket
mark will be upward. Camshaft sprocket is aligned with reference mark on cylinder head or timing belt cover
and then timing belt can be installed. See Fig. 25.
Fig. 25: Typical Camshaft Belt Sprocket Alignment
TENSION ADJUSTMENT
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Ensure all timing marks are aligned. Adjust belt tension using manufacturer's recommendations. Belt tension
may require checking using tension gauge. See Fig. 26.
TIMING GEARS
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
On engines where camshaft gear operates directly on crankshaft gear, gear backlash and runout must be
checked. To check backlash, install dial indicator with tip resting on tooth of camshaft gear. Rotate camshaft
gear as far as possible. Adjust indicator to zero. Rotate camshaft gear in opposite direction as far as possible and
note reading.
To determine timing gear runout, mount dial indicator with tip resting on face edge of camshaft gear. Adjust
indicator to zero. Rotate camshaft gear 360 degrees and note reading. If backlash or runout exceeds
specification, replace camshaft and/or crankshaft gear.
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
For one-piece type oil seal installation, coat block contact surface of seal with sealer if seal is not factory
coated. Ensure seal surface is free of burrs. Lubricate seal lip with engine oil and press seal into place using
proper oil seal installer. See Fig. 27.
Fig. 27: Installing Typical One-Piece Oil Seal
For rope type rear main oil seal installation, press seal lightly into seat area. Using seal installer, fully seat seal
in bearing cap or cylinder block.
Trim seal ends even with cylinder block parting surface. Some applications require sealer to be applied on main
bearing cap before installing. See Fig. 28.
Fig. 28: Installing Typical Rope Seal
Follow manufacturer's procedures when installing split-rubber type rear main oil seals. Installation procedures
vary with manufacturer and engine type. See Fig. 29.
Fig. 29: Installing Typical Split-Rubber Seal
OIL PUMP
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
ROTOR TYPE
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Always refer to appropriate engine overhaul article, if available, in the ENGINES
section for complete overhaul procedures and specifications for the vehicle
being repaired.
Mark oil pump rotor locations before removing. See Fig. 30. Remove outer rotor and measure thickness and
diameter. Measure inner rotor thickness. Inspect shaft for scoring or wear. Inspect rotors for pitting or damage.
Inspect cover for grooving or wear. Replace worn or damaged components.
Measure outer rotor-to-body clearance. Replace pump assembly if clearance exceeds specification. Measure
clearance between rotors. See Fig. 31. Replace shaft and both rotors if clearance exceeds specification.
Install rotors in pump body. Position straightedge across pump body. Using feeler gauge, measure clearance
between rotors and straightedge. Pump cover wear is measured using a straightedge and feeler gauge. Replace
pump if clearance exceeds specification.
GEAR TYPE
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Mark oil pump gear location before removing. See Fig. 32. Remove gears from pump body. Inspect gears for
pitting or damage. Inspect cover for grooving or wear. Measure gear diameter and length. Measure gear housing
cavity depth and diameter. See Fig. 33. Replace worn or damaged components.
Pump cover wear is measured using a straightedge and feeler gauge. Replace pump or components if warpage
or wear exceeds specification, or mating surface of pump cover is scratched or grooved.
Fig. 32: Typical Gear Type Oil Pump
Fig. 33: Measuring Oil Pump Gear Cavity
BREAK-IN PROCEDURE
* PLEASE READ THIS FIRST *
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
ENGINE PRE-OILING
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Pre-oil engine prior to operation to prevent engine damage. Lightly oiled oil pump will cavitate unless oil pump
cavities are filled with engine oil or petroleum jelly.
Engine pre-oiling can be done using pressure oiler (if available). Connect pressure oiler to cylinder block oil
passage such as oil pressure sending unit. Operate pressure oiler long enough to ensure correct amount of oil
has filled crankcase. Check oil level while pre-oiling.
If pressure oiler is not available, disconnect ignition system. Remove oil pressure sending unit and replace with
oil pressure test gauge. Using starter motor, rotate engine starter until gauge shows normal oil pressure for
several seconds. DO NOT crank engine for more than 30 seconds to avoid starter motor damage. Ensure oil
pressure has reached the most distant point from the oil pump.
NOTE: If new lifters or camshaft are installed, some manufacturers require that a
crankcase conditioner be added to engine oil. The engine should be operated
for specified amount of time to aid in lifter break-in procedure.
INITIAL START-UP
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Start engine and operate engine at low speed while checking for coolant, fuel and oil leaks. Stop engine.
Recheck coolant and oil level. Adjust if necessary.
CAMSHAFT
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Always refer to appropriate engine overhaul article, if available, in the ENGINES
section for complete overhaul procedures and specifications for the vehicle
being repaired.
Break-in procedure is required when new or reground camshaft has been installed. Operate and maintain engine
speed between 1500-2500 RPM for approximately 30 minutes. Procedure may vary due to manufacturer's
recommendations.
PISTON RINGS
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Piston rings require a break-in procedure to ensure seating of rings to cylinder walls. Serious damage may occur
to rings if correct procedures are not followed.
Extremely high piston ring temperatures are obtained during break-in process. If rings are exposed to
excessively high RPM or high cylinder pressures, ring damage can occur. Follow piston ring manufacturer's
recommended break-in procedure.
FINAL ADJUSTMENTS
NOTE: Examples used in this article are general in nature and do not necessarily relate
to a specific engine or system. Illustrations and procedures have been chosen
to guide mechanic through engine overhaul process. Descriptions of processes
of cleaning, inspection, assembly and machine shop practice are included.
Check or adjust ignition timing and dwell (if applicable). Adjust valves (if necessary). Adjust idle speed and
mixture. Retighten cylinder heads (if required). If cylinder head or block is aluminum, retighten bolts when
engine is cold. Follow the engine manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure and maintenance schedule
for new engines.
NOTE: Some manufacturers require that head bolts be retightened after specified
amount of operation. This must be done to prevent head gasket failure.
ENGINE REMOVAL
"M" Series
1. Place transmission gear selector in Park (Neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block
drive wheels. Loosen fuel filler cap to relieve tank pressure. Disconnect 3-terminal electrical connector at
fuel tank. Start engine and allow to run until engine stalls due to lack of fuel. Crank engine for 3 seconds
to remove any fuel pressure left in fuel lines. Fuel lines are now safe for servicing.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure
must be relieved as outlined in step 1).
2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Drain cooling system. Remove engine cover. Remove headlight bezel,
grille and hood latch mechanism. Remove radiator lower close-out panel and radiator support brace.
Remove lower tie bar and cross brace.
3. Remove radiator hoses, transmission cooler lines (if equipped), upper core support and filler panels.
Remove radiator and fan shroud as an assembly. Separate engine wiring harness at firewall connector.
Disconnect wiring harness at ECM and pull through firewall.
4. Disconnect heater hoses at heater core. Remove accelerator cable, cruise control and detent cables (if
equipped). Disconnect ground strap at cylinder head. Remove oil filler neck and thermostat outlet.
Remove air cleaner and canister purge hose. Raise vehicle. Separate exhaust pipe at manifold. Disconnect
wiring harness at transmission and frame.
5. Remove starter and flywheel inspection cover. Disconnect and plug fuel lines. Remove motor mount
through bolts and bellhousing bolts. Lower vehicle. Attach engine hoist. Support transmission and
carefully remove engine.
1. Place transmission gear selector in Park (Neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block
drive wheels. Loosen fuel filler cap to relieve tank pressure. Disconnect 3-terminal electrical connector at
fuel tank. Start engine and allow to run until engine stalls due to lack of fuel. Crank engine for 3 seconds
to remove any fuel pressure left in fuel lines. Fuel lines are now safe for servicing.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure
must be relieved as outlined in step 1).
2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove hood and air cleaner. Disconnect power steering reservoir at
fan shroud. Remove upper fan shroud and fan. Drain cooling system. Remove radiator hoses and
transmission oil cooler lines at radiator. Remove radiator.
3. Unbolt A/C compressor and power steering pump and set aside. Disconnect fuel line bracket at filter.
Disconnect and plug fuel lines. Label and disconnect all vacuum hoses. Disconnect accelerator, cruise
control and throttle valve cables. Remove heater hoses from engine.
4. Disconnect O2 sensor wire. Label and disconnect all electrical connectors on engine. Raise vehicle. On
2WD, remove strut rods, flywheel cover, and drive belt splash shield (if equipped). On 4WD, remove
crossmember after disconnecting brake line clip. Separate transmission cooler lines from flywheel cover.
Remove drive shaft at front axle. On all models, disconnect exhaust pipe at exhaust manifold. Remove
starter and flex plate-to-converter bolts.
5. Remove 2 outer air dam bolts (left side). Remove lower fan shroud and left side body mounting bolts.
Install jack stands. Raise and support left side of body. Remove upper transmission mounting bolts.
Lower body.
6. Remove remaining transmission mounting bolts. Remove motor mount through bolts. Lower vehicle.
Support transmission. Lift engine and remove wiring loom bracket at rear of cylinder head. Remove
engine.
2.8L V6
1. Place transmission gear selector in Park (Neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block
drive wheels. Although fuel pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to
relieve tank pressure. To further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a
shop rag while removing fuel lines.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure
must be relieved as outlined in step 1).
2. Disconnect battery. Remove hood and air cleaner. Drain cooling system. Remove radiator hoses,
transmission cooler lines (if equipped) and upper fan shroud. Remove radiator and fan and heater hoses.
Label and disconnect all vacuum hoses at engine. Disconnect throttle cable and cruise control cables (if
equipped).
3. Disconnect ground wires and cables, main feed wires and any necessary wiring at firewall. Remove
distributor cap. Raise vehicle. Disconnect exhaust pipe at converter and both manifolds. Remove strut
rods, flywheel inspection cover and torque converter bolts.
4. Remove converter hanger at exhaust pipe and rear shield. Disconnect fuel lines and hoses. Remove 2
outer air dam bolts and lower fan shroud. Remove left body mount bolts and raise body to remove
bellhousing bolts. Lower body and remove motor mount through bolts.
5. Disconnect A/C compressor and power steering pump from engine and set aside (if equipped). Attach lift
equipment to engine. Support transmission and carefully remove engine from vehicle.
"T" Series (4WD With Automatic Transmission)
1. Place transmission gear selector in Park (Neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block
drive wheels. Although fuel pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to
relieve tank pressure. To further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a
shop rag while removing fuel lines.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure
must be relieved as outlined in step 1).
2. Remove hood. Disconnect battery and underhood light. Raise vehicle. On utility vehicles, remove body
mounts. On chassis cab models, loosen and remove 2 front body mounts. On all models, remove front air
dam end bolts.
3. Raise body above frame and remove top transmission-to-engine bolts. Lower body to frame. Remove
remaining transmission-to-engine bolts. Unbolt and remove No. 2 crossmember. Disconnect exhaust pipe
at manifolds. Disconnect catalytic converter hanger.
4. Remove front drive shaft at differential. Remove bellhousing cover. Unclip automatic transmission cooler
lines at engine. Remove motor mount bolts and flex plate-to-converter bolts. Remove front splash shield
(if equipped) and lower fan shroud. Lower vehicle.
5. Drain cooling system. Remove upper fan shroud and radiator hoses. Disconnect automatic transmission
cooler lines at radiator. Remove radiator, fan, and air cleaner. Remove A/C compressor and power
steering pump from engine and set aside (if equipped).
6. Disconnect fuel lines and hoses. Disconnect vacuum and emission hoses from engine. Disconnect
accelerator, throttle valve, and cruise control cables (if equipped). Disconnect engine wiring harness at
firewall.
7. Disconnect heater hoses at engine. Disconnect any remaining wiring from engine. Attach hoist to engine
and support transmission securely. Remove engine.
1. Place transmission gear selector in Park (Neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block
drive wheels. Although fuel pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to
relieve tank pressure. To further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a
shop rag while removing fuel lines.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure
must be relieved as outlined in step 1).
2. Remove hood and air cleaner. Disconnect battery and underhood light. Drain cooling system and remove
upper fan shroud. Remove radiator hoses, fan and clutch. Remove radiator.
3. Remove A/C compressor and power steering pump (if equipped). Disconnect fuel lines and hoses.
Remove vacuum and heater hoses at engine. Disconnect accelerator and cruise control cables. Disconnect
engine wiring harness, main feed wire, and ground strap at firewall.
4. Remove lower fan shroud. Disconnect battery ground at engine. Remove distributor cap and diverted
valve. Remove shifter boot and console cover. Remove transfer case shifter and transmission shifter.
5. Raise vehicle. Remove front and rear skid plates. Remove front splash shield. Drain transfer case and
transmission. Remove rear drive shaft. Disconnect speedometer cable and front drive shaft. Disconnect
shift linkage and vacuum hoses at transfer case.
6. Disconnect parking brake cable. Remove rear mount and converter bracket. Support transfer case. Unbolt
transfer case and remove from vehicle. Remove crossmember. Disconnect back-up light wiring and clip.
Unbolt slave cylinder and hang to side. Remove transmission. Remove clutch release bearing and
flywheel inspection cover.
7. Remove left side body mounting bolts. Lift left side of body and remove bellhousing. Disconnect exhaust
at manifolds and converter. Disconnect clutch cross shaft at frame. Remove starter. Remove motor mount
bolts. Lower vehicle. Attach lifting device and remove engine.
4.3L V6
"M" Series
1. Place transmission gear selector in Park (Neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block
drive wheels. Although fuel pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to
relieve tank pressure. To further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a
shop rag while removing fuel lines.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure
must be relieved as outlined in step 1).
2. Disconnect negative battery cable. Drain cooling system. Raise vehicle. Disconnect exhaust pipe at
exhaust manifolds. Disconnect starter and strut rods at flywheel cover. Remove flywheel inspection
cover, torque converter bolts (A/T only) and oil filter.
3. Disconnect harness at transmission and frame. Disconnect and plug fuel lines. Disconnect transmission
and engine oil cooler lines at radiator. Remove lower fan shroud bolts. Remove motor mount through
bolts and bellhousing bolts. Lower vehicle. Remove headlight bezels and grille.
4. Remove radiator lower close-out panel and support braces. Remove lower tie bar. Remove hood latch
mechanism. Disconnect master cylinder and set aside. Remove radiator hoses, fan shroud, radiator and
upper radiator core support.
5. Discharge A/C system. Remove radiator filler panels. Remove engine cover and rear brace of A/C
compressor. Disconnect A/C hose at accumulator. Remove A/C compressor and bracket. Remove power
steering pump.
6. Label and disconnect necessary vacuum hoses. Disconnect wiring harness at firewall. Remove right kick
panel. Disconnect wiring harness at ESC module and push through firewall. Remove distributor cap and
A/C accumulator. Disconnect fuel line at TBI unit.
7. Disconnect and remove diverter valve. Remove transmission dipstick tube. Disconnect heater hoses at
heater core. Remove horn. Remove air injection check valves. Install engine lifting device. Support
transmission. Remove bellhousing bolts. Remove engine.
"G" Series
1. Place transmission gear selector in Park (Neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block
drive wheels. Although fuel pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to
relieve tank pressure. To further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a
shop rag while removing fuel lines.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure
must be relieved as outlined in step 1).
2. Remove glove box and engine cover. Disconnect battery and drain cooling system. Remove outside air
duct and air cleaner. Remove power steering reservoir bracket, hood release cable and upper fan shroud
bolts. Disconnect overflow hoses. Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines at radiator.
3. Remove upper fan shroud, fan and pulley. Remove heater hoses, radiator hoses and radiator. Remove
cruise control servo and brake booster vacuum hose at TBI unit. Disconnect accelerator and throttle valve
cables. Disconnect fuel line and vacuum hoses at TBI unit.
4. Remove TBI unit and distributor cap. Disconnect air injection hoses at diverter valve. Remove diverter
valve. Disconnect PCV valve. Label and disconnect remaining vacuum hoses. Label and disconnect
engine electrical harness. Discharge A/C system.
5. Remove A/C compressor brace and compressor. Remove upper half of dipstick tube. Remove oil filler
and transmission dipstick tubes. Disconnect and plug fuel lines at fuel pump. Remove power steering
pump and A/C idler pulley.
6. Remove headlight bezels and grille. Remove upper radiator support, lower filler panel and hood latch
support. Disconnect A/C lines at condenser. Remove condenser. Raise vehicle. Drain engine oil.
Disconnect exhaust pipe at exhaust manifolds.
7. Disconnect strut rods at flywheel inspection cover. Remove flywheel inspection cover, starter and torque
converter mounting bolts. Remove motor mount through bolts and bellhousing bolts. Lower vehicle.
Support transmission. Install lift equipment and remove engine.
1. Place transmission gear selector in Park (Neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block
drive wheels. Although fuel pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to
relieve tank pressure. To further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a
shop rag while removing fuel lines.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure
must be relieved as outlined in step 1).
2. Disconnect battery. Remove underhood light (if equipped) and hood. Raise vehicle. On utility vehicles,
remove body mounts. On chassis cab models, loosen front and remove 2 body mounts. On all models,
remove front air dams.
3. Remove top transmission-to-engine bolts. Lower body and remove remaining transmission-to-engine
bolts. Remove No. 2 crossmember. Remove exhaust pipes at manifold. Remove hanger from catalytic
converter.
4. On 4WD models, remove drive shaft at front axle. On automatic transmission models, remove torque
converter cover, transmission cooler lines and flexplate-to-torque converter bolts.
5. Remove motor mount bolts. Remove front splash shield (if equipped), lower and upper fan shrouds.
Lower vehicle. Drain cooling system. Remove radiator, fan and air cleaner.
6. Remove A/C compressor and power steering pump from engine and set aside (if equipped). Disconnect
fuel lines and hoses. Disconnect vacuum and emission hoses. Disconnect engine wiring harness at
firewall.
7. Disconnect accelerator cable, T.V. cable (automatic transmission) and cruise control cable (if equipped).
8. Disconnect heater hoses at engine. Attach hoist to engine and support transmission securely. Remove
engine from vehicle.
4.8L 6-CYLINDER
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove air cleaner and drain cooling system. Disconnect accelerator
cable and detent cable (automatic trans.) from throttle lever. Disconnect wiring harness at firewall.
2. Remove radiator hoses from radiator and heater hoses from engine. Remove radiator, fan and water pump
pulley. Disconnect fuel line from fuel pump. Disconnect vacuum and emission hoses. Remove hood.
Raise vehicle.
3. Remove starter, flywheel or converter inspection cover, and exhaust pipe from manifold. If equipped with
automatic transmission, remove converter-to-flex plate bolts. Attach engine hoist and remove weight
from engine mount bolts. Remove engine mount bolts.
4. Remove front engine mounting through bolts. Remove bellhousing retaining bolts and support
transmission with chain. Lower vehicle and attach engine hoist. Remove engine.
1. Place transmission gear selector in Park (Neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block
drive wheels. Although fuel pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to
relieve tank pressure. To further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a
shop rag while removing fuel lines.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure
must be relieved as outlined in step 1).
2. Disconnect battery cables and drain cooling system. Remove engine cover, air cleaner and air stove pipe.
Remove coolant reservoir, grille, upper radiator support and lower grille valance. Disconnect automatic
transmission cooler lines (if equipped) and radiator hoses.
3. On A/C equipped models, discharge system and remove condenser and vacuum reservoir. Remove
washer bottle with bracket, radiator brackets, radiator and shroud. Remove power steering pump and set
aside (if equipped).
4. Disconnect wiring from firewall connection. Disconnect accelerator cable and remove TBI unit or
carburetor. Remove thermostat housing, oil filler pipe and disconnect heater hoses. Remove cruise control
servo, transducer, and bracket (if equipped).
5. Raise vehicle. Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold. Remove drive shaft and plug extension housing.
Disconnect shift linkage and speedometer cable. Disconnect fuel and vapor hoses from engine. Remove
transmission mount bolts and engine mount bracket-to-frame bolts.
6. Drain crankcase. Raise engine slightly and remove engine mounts. Block up engine with wooden block
between oil pan and crossmember. Lower vehicle and attach lift equipment. Remove engine and
transmission as an assembly.
1. Place transmission gear selector in Park (Neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block
drive wheels. Although fuel pressure drops to zero when ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to
relieve tank pressure. To further minimize risk of fire and personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a
shop rag while removing fuel lines.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure
must be relieved as outlined in step 1).
2. Remove hood, air cleaner, accessory drive belts, fan and water pump pulley. Disconnect battery cables
and drain cooling system. Disconnect all hoses, lines, linkage and wiring from engine.
3. On A/C equipped models, remove compressor and set aside. Disconnect transmission oil cooler lines (if
equipped). Remove radiator with shroud. Remove power steering pump (if equipped). Disconnect fuel
lines. Raise vehicle and drain crankcase.
4. On 4WD models with automatic transmission, remove strut rods at motor mounts. Disconnect crossover
pipe from exhaust manifold. Remove flywheel or converter inspection cover and converter-to-flex plate
attaching bolts.
5. Remove starter and wiring along right pan rail. Support transmission and remove bolts from engine to
bellhousing. Remove lower engine mount bracket frame bolts. Lower vehicle and attach lift equipment.
Remove engine.
6.2L DIESEL V8
1. Disconnect batteries. Remove headlight bezels, grille, bumper and lower grille valance. Remove hood
latch, washer bottle, upper fan shroud and tie bar, and engine cover. On A/C equipped models, discharge
system and disconnect condenser lines and remove condenser.
2. Drain cooling system and remove radiator hoses at radiator. Disconnect engine oil and automatic
transmission cooler lines. Remove radiator and fan assembly. Scribe mark on front cover at injection
pump flange and remove fuel injection pump.
3. Raise vehicle. Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold. Remove inspection cover, flex plate-to-converter
bolts, and motor mount through bolts. Disconnect block heater and ground wire at element. Remove
bellhousing-to-engine bolts and starter.
4. Lower vehicle. Remove cruise control transducer (if equipped). On A/C equipped models, remove rear
brace, disconnect lines at compressor, and remove brackets and compressor. Remove power steering
pump and set aside (if equipped). Remove oil filler tube upper bracket and glow plug relay. Disconnect
oil pressure sender.
5. Remove air cleaner resonator with bracket and transmission filler tube nut. Disconnect heater, radiator
and by-pass hoses at crossover. Remove alternator upper bracket and coolant crossover. Disconnect fuel
lines at fuel pump. Attach lift equipment and remove engine.
1. Disconnect batteries. Raise vehicle. Remove inspection cover. Disconnect torque converter and exhaust
pipe. Remove starter, bellhousing bolts and motor mount bolts. Remove wire harness, automatic
transmission cooler lines and front battery cable clamp at oil pan.
2. Disconnect block heaters. Disconnect fuel return and oil cooler lines at engine. Remove lower fan shroud
bolts. Lower vehicle. Remove hood and drain cooling system. Remove air cleaner with resonator and
primary filter from cowl. Remove harness from clips at valve covers and disconnect glow plugs.
3. Disconnect ground cable at alternator bracket, alternator wires and clips. Disconnect TPS, EGR/EPR and
fuel cut-off at injection pump. Disconnect EGR/EPR solenoids, glow plug controller, temperature sender
and move harness aside. Disconnect left side ground strap.
4. Remove fan, upper radiator hoses at engine, and fan shroud. Remove power steering pump and belt.
Remove power steering reservoir and position aside. Disconnect vacuum at cruise servo and accelerator
cable at injection pump.
5. Disconnect heater hose and lower radiator hose at engine. Disconnect oil cooler lines, heater hose and
overflow at radiator. Disconnect automatic transmission cooler lines. Remove upper radiator cover,
radiator and detent cable. Support transmission and remove engine.
7.4L V8
1. Place transmission gear selector in Park (Neutral on manual transmissions). Set parking brake and block
drive wheels. On Throttle Body Injected (TBI) engines, although fuel pressure drops to zero when
ignition is turned off, loosen fuel filler cap to relieve tank pressure. To further minimize risk of fire and
personal injury, cover surrounding areas with a shop rag while removing fuel lines.
WARNING: To avoid possible personal injury and fire danger, fuel pressure on
Throttle Body Injected (TBI) engines must be relieved as outlined in
step 1).
2. Remove hood and air cleaner. Disconnect battery and drain cooling system. Disconnect radiator and
heater hoses. Remove radiator and fan shroud. Disconnect all hoses, fuel lines, linkage and wiring from
engine.
3. Without disconnecting lines, remove power steering pump and A/C compressor (if equipped) and support
out of the way. Raise vehicle. Drain crankcase and separate exhaust pipe from manifold. Remove starter
and torque converter bracket at transmission rear mount.
4. Remove bellhousing cover and flex plate-to-converter attaching bolts. Remove motor mount through
bolts and bellhousing bolts. Lower vehicle. Using floor jack, raise transmission. Attach lift equipment and
raise engine. Remove motor mount-to-engine brackets. Remove engine.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
4-CYLINDER
6-CYLINDER
V6
V8
DESCRIPTION
The Evaporative Emission Control System (EECS), prevents raw fuel vapors from entering the atmosphere. It
consists of a venting system which allows only vaporous fuel to be drawn into the system.
During engine operation, vapors are drawn through system vent lines and into intake manifold. When engine is
off, fuel vapors are stored in vapor storage canister charcoal. Vapors are drawn into intake manifold when
engine is running again. See Fig. 1 .
Fig. 1: Open-Bottom Canister (2-Tube Type)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
OPERATION
AUXILIARY CANISTER
On models with dual fuel tanks, an auxiliary canister is included with the primary canister to increase canister
capacity. Auxiliary canister is connected in-line to purge air inlet of primary canister.
Vapors overflowing from primary canister are stored in auxiliary canister. During purging, excess vapors are
routed to intake manifold.
CANISTER CONTROL VALVE
Two types of canister control valve are used. One type acts as fuel bowl vent and canister purge. When engine
is not running, spring tension holds valve open allowing venting of float bowl. When engine is running,
manifold vacuum pulls plunger up to close valve.
The other type of valve acts as both vapor vent valve and purge valve. When engine is running, manifold
vacuum from PCV system pulls lower diaphragm upward. This turns off venting of carburetor float bowl. When
engine is operating above idle speed, control vacuum pulls upper diaphragm upward. This allows purging of
canister through PCV system.
TWO-TUBE CANISTER
Gasoline vapors from fuel tank flow into canister and are absorbed by carbon. Canister is purged when engine
operates above idle speed. A timed vacuum source is applied to canister to draw fresh air through bottom of
canister. Fresh air mixes with fuel vapors and are drawn into intake manifold to be burned in engine.
Some models are equipped with a second canister purge hose. This hose is connected to a Canister Control
Valve (CCV). The CCV is then connected to carburetor bowl vent line. This allows carburetor bowl to be
vented to canister, through CCV, when engine is not running. These vapors are then drawn into intake manifold
once engine is started.
Fuel tank pressure control valve is a spring controlled valve. When engine is running, vacuum is applied to
valve and valve is opened. This allows vapors from fuel tank to vent to canister.
When engine is not running, valve closes. This causes fuel tank vapors to be vented through restriction in valve.
This restriction retains most of fuel tank vapors in fuel tank.
Solenoid valve is controlled by Electronic Control Module (ECM). When energized, purge solenoid valve shuts
off, which causes vapors to be drawn from canister through restriction and allowing high purge.
For high purge to occur the fuel control system must be operating in closed loop, a time of 3 minutes must pass
after starting engine, and engine must be off idle.
Fuel bowl vent solenoid valve is a grounded solenoid energized by ignition voltage. Solenoid valve is off when
solenoid is energized and open when de-energized.
Thermal bowl vent valve, located in a section of hose from canister to carburetor, permits fuel bowl vapors to
be directed to carbon-canister. Valve will close when engine temperature is below 90°F (32°C), and will open
when engine temperature is above 120°F (49°C).
MAINTENANCE
No adjustments are required with this system. Replace air inlet filter (if equipped) in bottom of charcoal canister
every 30,000 miles. Regular inspection should be made and defective components replaced as necessary.
COMPONENT TESTING
VAPOR VENT CONTROL VALVE
1. Attach a short piece of hose to carburetor bowl vapor tube of canister. Blow through hose to determine if
air will pass vapor vent valve into canister. If not, valve is defective.
2. Using a vacuum pump, apply 15 in. Hg to vacuum signal tube in diaphragm assembly cover. If diaphragm
does not hold vacuum for at least 20 seconds, diaphragm is leaking and canister must be replaced.
3. With vacuum still applied, again attempt to blow into the carburetor bowl vapor tube of the canister. If
valve is sealing properly, air should pass vapor vent valve into canister. If air does not enter canister past
vapor vent valve, valve is not functioning properly and canister must be replaced.
Install a short piece of hose on valve inlet tube (fuel tank side) and blow into hose. You should feel diaphragm
pop open and air should pass through valve. If valve does not open, it should be replaced.
EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS
DESCRIPTION
Early Fuel Evaporation (EFE) system is used to provide heat to engine induction system during cold driveaway.
The EFE system is vacuum operated exhaust heat riser valve type. The EFE system provides rapid heating,
resulting in faster fuel evaporation and more uniform fuel distributor.
OPERATION
Thermal vacuum switch is a normally closed switch which is sensitive to oil (4.8L) or coolant temperature (all
other engines). With engine temperature less than 105°F (40°C), TVS is closed which allows manifold vacuum
to actuator and EFE valve. Vacuum pulls diaphragm in actuator, closing EFE valve.
This causes hot exhaust gases to be routed to base of carburetor. When engine temperature is greater than 105°F
(40°C), thermal vacuum switch opens. This stops vacuum to actuator. Without vacuum, spring pushes actuator
diaphragm to rest position and opens EFE valve.
DESCRIPTION
The throttle body fuel injection system consists of 7 major sub-assemblies: fuel supply system, throttle body
assembly, Idle Air Control (IAC) system, Electronic Control Module (ECM), Electronic Spark Timing (EST),
data sensors, and emission controls. Fuel is supplied to the engine through electronically pulsed injector(s),
located in the throttle body assembly on top of intake manifold. The ECM controls the amount of fuel metered
through the injector(s) based upon engine demand.
The model 220 throttle body assembly consists of a fuel meter cover with a built in fuel pressure regulator, a
fuel meter body with 2 fuel injectors, a throttle body with 2 throttle valves, an Idle Air Control (IAC) valve, and
a Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).
The model 700 throttle body assembly consists of a fuel meter body with one fuel injector, a fuel pressure
regulator, a throttle body with one throttle valve, an IAC valve, and a TPS sensor.
The throttle body portion may contain ports located above or below the throttle valve to generate vacuum
signals for EGR valve, MAP sensor, and fuel vapor canister purge system.
An electric fuel pump (located inside fuel tank as an integral part of the fuel gauge sending unit) supplies fuel
under pressure to the throttle body assembly. On most engines, a fuel pump relay controls fuel pump operation.
When the ignition is on, the fuel pump relay activates the fuel pump for 2 seconds to prime the injector(s). On
5.7L engines over 8500 GVW, "G" series with 5.7L and all 7.4L engines, a fuel module circuit is installed so
that the fuel pump will run for 20 seconds when ignition is turned on. This enables engine to start easily during
high ambient temperatures.
On all engines, if the ECM does not receive reference pulses (engine cranking) from the distributor after this
priming period, the ECM deactivates the fuel pump relay. The fuel pump relay will be activated again when the
ECM receives distributor reference pulses.
As a back-up system to the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump can also be activated by oil pressure sending unit.
The sending unit has 2 internal circuits. One circuit operates the oil pressure indicator in the instrument panel.
The second circuit is normally an open switch which closes when the oil pressure reaches about 4 psi (.3
kg/cm2 ). If fuel pump relay fails, oil pressure sending unit will close, and supply voltage to fuel pump.
The pressure regulator is a diaphragm-operated relief valve with injector pressure acting on one side and
atmospheric pressure acting on the other. The pressure regulator maintains a constant pressure drop of about 10
psi (.7 kg/cm2 ) across injector(s), throughout all engine operating conditions. The model 700 fuel pressure
regulator may be disassembled and repaired.
FUEL INJECTOR
The fuel injector is a solenoid-operated device controlled by the ECM. The ECM activates the solenoid which
lifts a normally closed ball valve off its seat. Fuel under pressure is injected in a conical spray pattern at the
walls of throttle body bore, above the throttle valve. Excess fuel passes through the pressure regulator and is
returned to the fuel tank.
IDLE AIR CONTROL (IAC) SYSTEM
The IAC system consists of an electrically controlled motor (actuator) which positions the IAC valve in the air
by-pass channel around the throttle valve. The ECM calculates the desired position of the IAC valve based upon
battery voltage, coolant temperature, engine load, and engine RPM to control idle speed while preventing stalls
due to engine load changes.
The Electronic Control Module (ECM) receives and processes information from all data sensors to produce the
proper pulse duration ("on" time) for the injector(s), correct idle speed and proper spark timing. The ECM
performs calculations to control the following operating conditions: engine start, engine running, fuel
enrichment during acceleration, lean fuel mixture during deceleration, fuel cut-off and battery voltage
correction.
If the engine is flooded, the driver must depress the accelerator pedal all the way down. At this position, the
ECM calculates injector pulse width equal to an air/fuel ratio of 20:1. This air/fuel ratio will be maintained as
long as the throttle valve remains wide open and engine speed is below 600 RPM. If the throttle position
becomes less than 80 percent open and/or engine speed exceeds 600 RPM, the ECM changes the injector pulse
width to that used during engine starting.
DATA SENSORS
NOTE: For information on other sensors that are used by the ECM to control engine
performance and other systems,refer to the TBI CEC TESTING/CODES article in
the COMPUTERIZED ENGINE CONTROLS section.
The coolant temperature sensor is located in thermostat housing. It is a variable resistor (thermistor) type sensor,
and transmits an electrical signal to the ECM proportionate to engine temperature. A low coolant temperature
produces a high resistance while a high coolant temperature produces a low resistance.
Coolant temperature is used for fuel management, idle air control, spark timing, EGR operation, canister purge
operation and other engine operating functions.
Oxygen Sensor
The oxygen sensor monitors the oxygen content of the exhaust gases. As the oxygen content of the exhaust
gases increases relative to the surrounding atmosphere, a lean fuel mixture is indicated by a low voltage output.
As the oxygen content decreases, a rich fuel mixture is indicated by a higher voltage output. The ECM
interprets the electrical signal and adjusts the injector pulse width to maintain the air/fuel ratio close to 14.7:1.
The MAP sensor is a variable resistor which measures the changes in the intake manifold pressure which result
from engine load and speed changes. The pressure measured by the MAP sensor is the difference between
barometric pressure (atmospheric air) and manifold pressure (vacuum).
Throttle Position Sensor (Tps)
The TPS is mounted on side of the throttle body and is connected to the throttle shaft. As throttle valve angle
changes, the resistance of the sensor also changes. The ECM supplies a 5-volt reference signal to the TPS. A
closed throttle condition produces high resistance at the sensor and the output signal to the ECM will be low
(about .5 volt). A wide open throttle condition produces low resistance at the sensor. The output signal to the
ECM will be high (about 5 volts).
APPLICATION
ROCHESTER THROTTLE BODY
Application Part No.
Astro & Safari
2.5L 17087283
4.3L 17089027
"C/K" Series
4.3L 17087162
5.0L 17087019
5.7L Heavy Duty (GVW 8500-10,000 Lbs.)
Automatic Transmission 17089045
Manual Transmission 17089046
5.7L Light Duty (GVW Below 8500 Lbs.) 17087101
7.4L 17087021
"G" Series
4.3L 17089027
5.0L 17087004
5.7L
Light Duty (GVW Below 8600 Lbs.) 17087101
Medium Duty (GVW 8600-10,000 Lbs) 17087005
Heavy Duty (GVW Above 10,000 Lbs)
Automatic Transmission 17089045
Manual Transmission 17089046
7.4L 17089092
"P" Series
5.7L
Automatic Transmission 17089045
Manual Transmission 17089046
7.4L
Automatic Transmission 17087021
Manual Transmission 17087257
"R/V" Series
5.7L
Automatic Transmission 17089045
Manual Transmission
"R" Series Only 17087100
"V" Series Only 17087101
7.4L 17089092
"S" Series
2.5L 17087282
2.8L (2WD)
Automatic Transmission 17087086
Manual Transmission 17087087
2.8L (4WD) 17087088
4.3L
Automatic Transmission 17089018
Manual Transmission Part No. Not
Available
IDENTIFICATION
The throttle body injection identification number is stamped on mounting flange, on throttle lever side. See Fig.
1. Alphabetical code letters are stamped on the throttle body at external tube locations to identify vacuum hose
connections. All 4-cylinder engines are equipped with model 700 TBI unit. The V6 and V8 engines use model
220 TBI unit.
SYSTEM TESTING
NOTE: For diagnosis, refer to the TBI CEC TESTING/CODES article in the
COMPUTERIZED ENGINE CONTROLS section.
1. On model 700 TBI unit, disconnect 3-terminal electrical connector at fuel tank. Start engine and allow to
run until engine stalls due to lack of fuel. Crank engine for 3 seconds to remove any fuel pressure left in
fuel lines. Fuel lines are now safe for servicing.
2. On model 220 TBI unit, fuel pressure is relieved and drops to zero when ignition is turned off. To
minimize the risk of fire and personal injury, cover area to be disconnected with a shop rag.
1. Turn engine off and relieve fuel pressure. See FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELIEF. Remove air cleaner
and plug air cleaner (THERMAC) vacuum port (if equipped).
2. Disconnect fuel line between throttle body and fuel filter. Install Fuel Pressure Gauge (J-29658A) and
Adapter (J-2968A-85) between throttle body and in-line fuel filter. Start engine and observe fuel pressure
reading.
3. Fuel pressure should be 9-13 psi (.6-.9 kg/cm2 ). If not, see CHART A-6, FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE
TEST in the CCC TBI TESTING/CODES article in the COMPUTER ENG CONTROL section.
4. After testing, relieve fuel pressure. Remove fuel pressure gauge and connect fuel line to fuel filter. Start
vehicle and check for leaks. Remove plug from throttle body vacuum port (if equipped). Install air
cleaner.
NOTE: For removal and installation of data sensors not covered, see the CCC TBI
TESTS W/CODES article in the COMPUTER ENG CONTROL section.
Removal
1. Disconnect air cleaner (THERMAC) hose from engine fitting (if equipped). Remove air cleaner, adapter,
and gasket. Disconnect electrical leads at IAC valve, throttle position sensor, and fuel injector(s).
2. Relieve fuel pressure. See FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELIEF. Disconnect fuel lines from throttle
body. Discard fuel line "O" rings. Disconnect grommet with wires from throttle body.
NOTE: On model 220 TBI units, squeeze plastic tabs on injectors and pull straight
up.
3. Disconnect throttle linkage, return spring and cruise control linkage (if equipped). Label and disconnect
all vacuum hoses from throttle body. Remove throttle body mount bolts/nut. Remove throttle body.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Ensure throttle body and intake manifold sealing surfaces are clean.
Always use new throttle body gasket and fuel line "O" rings. Check fuel system for leaks by turning ignition on,
but without starting engine.
FUEL PUMP
1. Relieve fuel system pressure. See FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE RELIEF. Disconnect battery negative
cable. Raise vehicle on hoist and lower fuel tank. Turn lock ring counterclockwise and remove fuel lever
sending unit and pump assembly.
2. Remove fuel pump from fuel lever sending unit by pulling fuel pump up into attaching hose while pulling
outward away from bottom support. Ensure rubber insulator and strainer are not damaged. To install,
reverse removal procedure.
WIRING DIAGRAMS
Fig. 16: Astro & Safari 2.5L TBI/CCC Wiring Diagram
ADJUSTMENTS
MINIMUM AIR RATE
NOTE: Verify correct controlled idle speed. Perform idle air control check before
adjusting minimum air rate. Refer to the CCC TBI TESTS W/CODES article in the
COMPUTER ENG CONTROL section.
1. Remove air cleaner and gasket. With Idle Air Control (IAC) valve connected, ground terminal "A" to "B"
at ALDL connector. refer to the CCC TBI TESTS W/CODES article in the COMPUTER ENG
CONTROL section.
2. Turn ignition on, DO NOT start engine. Wait approximately 30 seconds for IAC valve pintle to extend
and seat in throttle body.
3. With ignition on, disconnect IAC valve electrical connector. Remove ground at ALDL connector. Using
an awl, remove plug for minimum idle speed adjustment by piercing, then applying leverage.
4. Install a tachometer and start engine. Allow engine to reach operating temperature. Adjust idle screw to
specification with vehicle in Neutral. Turn ignition off. Reconnect IAC valve electrical connector. Install
air cleaner and gasket.
5. This procedure will set a code 35. Erase code by disconnecting electrical power to ECM for 30 seconds.
Connect digital voltmeter between TPS connector terminals "A" and "B" using jumper wires. With ignition on
and engine stopped, TPS voltage should be between .42 and .54 volt. Rotate TPS to obtain correct voltage
reading. If voltage cannot be adjusted to proper specification, replace TPS.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Fuel Inlet Nut 30 (41)
Fuel Outlet Nut 21 (28)
Idle Air Control Valve (Threaded) 13 (18)
Throttle Body-to-Manifold Bolts
2.8L 18 (24)
All Other Engines 12 (16)
INCH Lbs. (N.m)
Fuel Meter Body Screws
Model 220 30 (3)
Model 700 53 (6)
Fuel Meter Cover Screws (Model 220 Only) 28 (3)
Fuel Pressure Regulator Screws (Model 700 Only) 22 (2.5)
Idle Air Control Valve Screws (Flange Mounted) 28 (3)
1. Remove throttle body and place assembly on Holding Fixture (J-9789-118) to prevent damage to throttle
valves. Disconnect electrical leads from fuel injectors. Remove cover attaching screws and lock washers.
See Fig. 25.
2. Lift off fuel meter cover with fuel pressure regulator assembly attached. DO NOT remove fuel meter
cover gasket at this time. Remove fuel pressure regulator dust seal from fuel meter body.
Fuel Injector
1. With fuel meter cover gasket in place, use a screwdriver and fulcrum to carefully pry injectors away from
fuel meter body. Carefully lift injectors out with a twisting motion. See Fig. 24.
2. Remove small "O" ring from nozzle end of injector. Carefully rotate injector filter back and forth to
remove from base of injector. Remove large "O" ring and back-up washer from top of injector cavity.
Remove fuel inlet and outlet nuts and gaskets from fuel meter body. Remove fuel meter body attaching screws
and lock washers. Remove fuel meter body and gasket.
Throttle Body
Remove throttle position sensor. Invert throttle body assembly and place on clean, flat surface. Remove screws
and idle air control valve (7.4L engine) or remove idle air control valve by using a 1 1/4" (32 mm) wrench.
z Clean all metal parts in a cold immersion-type cleaner and blow dry with compressed air.
z DO NOT immerse throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, fuel injector(s), fuel filter, or fuel meter
cover and pressure regulator assembly in cleaning solvent.
z Inspect throttle body assembly casting surfaces for damage.
Throttle Body
1. Before installing idle air control valve, measure distance between tip of valve pintle and mounting
surface. Distance should not exceed 1 1/8" (28 mm).
2. To adjust, exert firm pressure on pintle while moving pintle from side to side until distance is correct.
NOTE: On 7.4L engines, the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve pintle diameter is 12 mm
rather than 10 mm. Ensure replacement IAC valve pintle taper is correct.
3. Invert throttle body assembly and place on clean, flat surface. Install IAC valve and gasket. On 7.4L
engine, tighten IAC valve screws to 28 INCH lbs. (3 N.m). Tighten threaded IAC valve to 13 ft. lbs. (18
N.m).
4. Place throttle body on holding fixture. Install throttle position sensor. Use Loctite on throttle position
sensor attaching screws.
Install fuel meter body gasket and fuel meter body on throttle body. Apply thread locking compound (supplied
in service kit) on attaching screws. Install lock washers and screws. Install fuel inlet and outlet nuts and gaskets.
Fuel Injector
NOTE: Injectors on 4.3L engines have 2 different flow rates. Injectors color coded
Orange and Green should be installed on throttle lever side. Injectors color
coded Pink and Brown should be installed on TPS side.
1. Using a slight twisting motion, install fuel injector filter on nozzle end of injector until seated against
base. Ensure that large end of filter faces injector. Filter should cover raised rib at base of injector.
2. Lubricate "O" rings with automatic transmission fluid. Push small "O" ring on nozzle end of injector until
seated against injector fuel filter. Install back-up washer in top recess of fuel meter body cavity.
3. Install large "O" ring directly above back-up washer. Press "O" ring into cavity until it is flush with top of
fuel meter body casting surface.
NOTE: "O" rings and back-up washer must be installed before fuel injector.
Otherwise injector fuel leaks may occur.
4. Align raised lug on injector base with notch in fuel meter body cavity. Push down on injector until it is
fully seated. Injector is correctly installed when electrical connections are parallel to throttle shaft.
1. Install new fuel pressure regulator dust seal into recess of fuel meter body. Install new fuel outlet gasket.
Install new fuel meter cover gasket on fuel meter body. Install fuel meter cover.
2. Ensure pressure regulator dust seal and gaskets are in place. Apply thread locking compound (supplied in
service kit) to cover screws. Install lock washers and screws.
Fuel Injector
1. Remove throttle body and place assembly on Holding Fixture (J-9789-118) to prevent damage to throttle
valves. Remove screw and injector retainer. See Fig. 27.
2. Use a screwdriver and fulcrum to carefully pry injector away from fuel meter body. See Fig. 26. Remove
upper and lower "O" rings from injector or fuel injector cavity.
1. Remove fuel pressure regulator attaching screws while keeping pressure regulator compressed. Remove
pressure regulator cover, spring seat, spring, and diaphragm. See Fig. 27.
WARNING: The pressure regulator includes a spring under heavy tension which
may cause personal injury if released. Use care when servicing
regulator.
2. Inspect pressure regulator seat for pitting or other damage. If damaged, replace fuel meter body. To
replace fuel meter body, remove fuel meter body screws and washers. Remove fuel meter body from
throttle body. Remove and discard fuel meter body gasket.
Throttle Body
Remove tube assembly and gasket. Remove throttle position sensor and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.
CLEANING & INSPECTION
z Clean all metal parts in a cold immersion-type cleaner and blow dry with compressed air.
z DO NOT immerse throttle position sensor, idle air control valve, fuel injector(s), fuel filter, or fuel meter
cover and pressure regulator assembly in cleaning solvent.
z Inspect throttle body assembly casting surfaces for damage.
Fig. 27: Exploded View of Model 700 Throttle Body Assembly
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Install tube assembly using a new gasket. Install throttle position sensor. Before installing idle air control
valve, measure distance between tip of valve pintle and mounting surface. Distance should not exceed 1
1/8" (28 mm).
2. If distance is incorrect, exert firm pressure on pintle while moving pintle from side to side until distance
is correct. The flange mounted IAC valve on 2.5L engines has a dual taper, 10 mm diameter pintle.
Ensure replacement valve has same shape and diameter of valve removed.
1. Install new fuel meter body gasket. Ensure gasket cut-outs match openings in throttle body. Install fuel
meter body and tighten screws. Install new pressure regulator diaphragm. Ensure diaphragm is seated in
fuel meter body groove.
2. Install spring, spring seat, and cover. See Fig. 27. Apply Loctite to pressure regulator cover screws. While
maintaining pressure on regulator cover and spring, install cover screws.
Fuel Injector
NOTE: Injectors from other TBI units will fit in the model 700 TBI unit. Injectors have
different flow rates. Ensure correct part number is used.
1. Lubricate "O" rings with automatic transmission fluid. Make sure upper "O" ring is in groove and that
lower "O" ring is flush against filter. See Fig. 27.
2. Press injector into fuel cavity. Ensure injector electrical connector is facing cut-out in fuel meter body for
wire grommet. Apply Loctite to injector retainer screw. Install injector retainer and screw.
FUEL PUMP - ELECTRIC
When ignition switch is turned to "ON" position, the Electronic Control Module (ECM) turns on the fuel pump
relay for 2 seconds. If engine is not started within this two second period, the ECM shuts off the fuel pump. As
soon as the engine is cranked again, the ECM turns the relay on and runs the fuel pump.
On the 5.7L engine in the G van and all other 5.7L or 7.4L engines in vehicles over 8500 GVW, a fuel module
will override the ECM and the fuel pump will run for approximately twenty seconds. The fuel module corrects a
hot restart vapor lock during a high ambient condition.
As a back-up system to the fuel pump relay, the fuel pump can also be turned on by the oil pressure switch.
When the engine oil pressure reaches about 4 psi (.28 kg/cm2 ) through cranking and the fuel pump relay does
not complete the circuit, the oil pressure switch will close to complete the circuit to run the fuel pump. An
inoperative fuel pump relay can result in long cranking time, particularly when the engine is cold.
TESTING
FUEL PUMP PRESSURE TEST
CAUTION: Before disconnecting fuel line to connect pressure tester, fuel line
pressure relief procedures must be completed.
1. Place transmission in Park (Neutral for manual transmission) and apply parking brake. Loosen fuel filler
cap to relieve tank pressure.
2. On 2.5L Engine, disconnect 3 terminal electrical connector at fuel tank. Start engine and let run until
engine dies from lack of fuel. Crank engine for 3 seconds to relieve residual pressure. Reconnect
electrical connector. On all other engines, an internal constant bleed feature automatically relieves fuel
system pressure when engine is off.
3. Plug thermac vacuum port on TBI (if equipped). Disconnect flexible fuel hose and install pressure gauge.
Start engine and observe fuel pressure. See FUEL PUMP PRESSURE SPECIFICATIONS. Relieve
fuel pressure. Remove pressure gauge and reconnect fuel line using new "O" ring.
1. Relieve fuel system pressure as described in FUEL PUMP PRESSURE TEST. Disconnect negative
battery cable at battery. Raise vehicle and remove fuel tank. Remove sender unit and pump by turning
cam lock counterclockwise using Tool J-36608 or J-24187.
2. Remove fuel pump from sending unit by pulling pump up into attaching hose while pulling outward from
the bottom support. DO NOT damage rubber insulator or strainer. To install, reverse removal procedure.
NOTE: When installing sending unit, DO NOT fold or twist strainer. This will restrict
fuel flow.
SPECIFICATIONS
The fuse block is located under the instrument panel to the left of the steering column.
z 1 - Inst-Lps 5 Amp Instrument Panel Lights, Headlight Warning Buzzer, Rear Defogger Switch Light,
Ashtray Light, 4WD Indicator Light, Rear Wiper Switch Light, Foglight Switch Light
z 2 - Pwr-Accy 30 Amp (Circuit Breaker) Power Door Locks & Rear Defogger, Console Accy. Receptacles
Bravada & Typhoon), CD Player (If Equipped), Power Seat (If Equipped), Elec. Shift Transfer Case (If
Equipped)
z 3 - Horn-Dim 20 Amp Horn, Clock & Lighter, Dome & Glove Box Lights, Courtesy & Vanity Mirror
Lights, Compass (Bravada), Liftgate Release Solenoid (If Equipped), Fog Lights (1991), Outside
Rearview Mirror
z 4 - Ign-Gau 20 Amp Ignition (1985-87), Indicator Lights & Gauges, Rear Defogger Relay & Timer, A/T
Converter Clutch & Cruise Control, RWAL Brake Signal (If Equipped), Seat Belt Timer (If Equipped),
A/C Compressor Timer (If Equipped), 4WD Indicator Light (If Equipped)
z 5 - Choke 20 Amp (1985-87) Choke, Brake 15 Amp (1988-94), Rear/Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake
Module, Digital Radio Adapter Module, Speedometer, Auto. Trans. Converter Clutch
z 6 - Stop-Haz 15 Amp Stoplights & Hazard Warning Lights, Chime Module (1991-94)
z 7 - T/L-Ctsy 20 Amp Light Switch, Taillights & Parking Lights, Courtesy Lights, Electronic Cluster (If
Equipped)
z 8 - Turn-B/U 15 Amp Turn Signal & Back-Up Lights
z 9 - Htr-A/C 25 Amp Heating & A/C
z 10 - Radio 15 Amp Radio, Tachometer, Rearview Mirror Map Lights, Rear Wiper & Washer, Compass
(1993)
z 11 - ECM B 10 Amp (Exc. 1993-94); 15 Amp (1993-94) Electronic Control Module, Fuel Pump
z 12 - ECM I 10 Amp Electronic Control Module
z 13 - Pwr Wdo 30 Amp (Circuit Breaker) Power Windows
z 14 - Wiper 25 Amp Windshield Wipers & Washers
z 15 - Crank 3 Amp Electronic Control Module
z 16 - TCCM 5 Amp (1993-94) Elec. Shift Transfer Case Module
z 17 - DRL 10 Amp (1993-94) Daytime Running Lights (Canada)
TROUBLE SHOOTING
MODEL IDENTIFICATION
Operation, adjustments, removal and installation procedures in this article are referred to by model name or
designation (body type). The following table lists General Motors model name and designation (body type).
DESCRIPTION
System is a blend-air type. Outside air is heated and then mixed with cooler outside air to attain desired
temperature. System consists of a blower and an air inlet assembly, heater air distributor assembly and heater
control panel.
Blower, air inlet assembly and heater hoses are located on the engine side of dash panel while heater core and
distributor duct are on passenger side. System has no heater control valve. Coolant circulation keeps heater core
hot at all times.
Operation of blower motor is controlled by the fan switch. The motor is connected in series with the fan switch
and blower resistor assembly.
On all Van and Suburban models, an auxiliary heater is available for heating rear of vehicle. The unit operates
independently of standard heater and has its own set of controls. Heater hoses connect at the standard heater and
extend from the standard heater to the auxiliary heater. A vacuum-operated heater control valve is installed in
the inlet line in the engine compartment to cut off coolant flow when heat is not desired. See Fig. 8 and Fig. 9 .
OPERATION
TEMPERATURE CONTROL LEVER
The lower lever on the control panel controls discharge-air temperature in all Mode Control Lever positions.
Full right position provides maximum heat. Full left position provides cool (outside) air.
When in "OFF" position, the system is off. When in "HEATER" position, most of the air is delivered through
the floor (heater) outlet with some air flow to the windshield (defroster) outlets.
The lever may be adjusted between "HEATER" and "DEF" to vary air distribution between floor air outlet and
windshield outlet. In the "DEF" position, heated air is delivered to the windshield outlets with a small amount to
the floor outlets.
MODE CONTROL LEVER (OPTIONAL SYSTEM ASTRO/SAFARI, "C", "K", "S" & "T" SERIES)
When lever is in "VENT" position, all discharge air is directed to the upper outlets. The "DEF" position directs
most of the air to the windshield (defroster) outlets with some directed into the flow (heater) outlets. When in
"HEATER" position, most of the air is delivered through the floor outlets with some air flow to the windshield
outlets.
BLOWER CONTROL
Blower control can be either knob or lever type. Knob is a 4-speed type rotating from "OFF" to "HI". Lever is a
variable speed type, sliding from "OFF" through "LO" to "HI".
A 3-speed blower switch is located in the instrument panel to the right of steering column. When switch is in
"Off" position, auxiliary system will not operate.
ADJUSTMENTS
CONTROL CABLES
Disconnect battery ground. Remove glove box and glove box door assembly. Pry off cable clip eyelet with
pliers and disconnect cable from the door. Remove cable retaining screw. While holding cable with pliers,
rotate the mounting tab on cable by reversing removal procedure.
Attach cable core wire and cable housing to control panel. Move temperature control lover to cool position and
attach loop on cable core wire to temperature door on heater case. Attach cable housing to heater/defroster
assembly. Move temperature control lever to full heat position to adjust cable.
Remove control panel. Disconnect control cables at both ends. Replace cables and install control panel. Cycle
control lever through its full range of travel to adjust cable.
Removal & Installation (Astro/Safari, Blazer/Jimmy, "C", "K", "R" & "V" Series)
Disconnect battery ground. Remove instrument panel bezel. Disconnect control cables and blower switch
electrical connectors. Remove control panel through opening above it. Remove blower switch attaching screws
and blower switch. To install, reverse removal procedures.
1. Disconnect battery ground. Remove instrument panel bezel. Remove control panel-to-instrument panel
retaining screws. Carefully pull control panel rearward far enough to gain access to cables.
2. Disconnect control cables, light bulb and blower switch connector. Remove control panel from vehicle.
Remove blower switch attaching screws and remove blower switch. To install, reverse removal
procedures.
Disconnect battery ground. Remove instrument panel center bezel. Remove control panel screws and pull
control out. Disconnect electrical connection and cables from control panel. Remove blower switch from
control panel. To install, reverse removal procedures.
HEATER CORE
NOTE: These procedures are for vehicles with heater systems. For vehicles with
manual A/C-heater systems, see appropriate MANUAL A/C-HEAT SYSTEMS
article.
Disconnect battery ground. Drain coolant. Remove coolant bottle. Remove bolts from washer bottle and move
out of way. Remove heater hoses at core and plug openings. Remove core cover attaching screws. Remove
heater core retaining straps and remove core. To install, reverse removal procedures. See Fig. 1 .
Fig. 1: Heater System Components (Astro/Safari)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Drain cooling system. Disconnect heater hoses at heater core, drain core
into pan and plug openings. Remove nuts from heater distributor duct studs. Remove glove box and glove
box door assembly. Disconnect control cables.
2. Remove floor outlet. Remove defroster duct-to-heater distributor duct screw. Remove heater distributor-
to-dash panel screws. Pull assembly rearward to gain access to wiring harness. Disconnect all harness
connectors attached to assembly.
3. Remove assembly from vehicle. Remove heater core retaining straps and remove cores. To install, reverse
removal procedures. Ensure seals are intact before installing.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Drain cooling system. Remove coolant recovery tank. Disconnect
heater hoses at core. Disconnect cable from antenna mast. Remove glove box.
2. Disconnect wiring harness from ECM. Remove ECM and bracket. Remove right kick pad. Remove right
lower dash panel bolt and nut.
3. Remove heater case mounting bolts. Remove heater case from vehicle, raising instrument panel for
additional room. Remove heater core from heater case. To install, reverse removal procedure. See Fig. 2 .
Fig. 2: Heater System Components ("C" & "K" Series)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Disconnect battery ground. Drain cooling system. Remove coolant recovery tank. Disconnect heater
hoses at core. Drain coolant into pan and plug openings. Remove screws attaching heater duct at case and
distributor duct to engine cover. Remove ducts.
2. Remove engine housing cover. Remove instrument panel attaching screws at windshield. Remove all
lower screws and right lower instrument panel support bracket at door pillar. Remove engine housing.
Lower steering column, then raise and support right side of instrument panel.
3. Remove defroster duct-to-distributor case attaching screw and screws attaching distributor to heater case.
Disconnect temperature door cable and bolt back cable to provide access. Remove nuts at engine
compartment side of distributor case and nut on passenger compartment side.
4. Remove heater case and core as an assembly. Tilt case assembly rearward at top while lifting up until
core tubes clear dash openings. Remove core retaining straps and remove cores. To install, reverse
removal procedures. Ensure seals are intact before installing.
Disconnect battery ground cable. Drain engine coolant. Remove heater core hoses at core and plug core
openings. Remove cores cover attaching screws. Remove retainers at end of core. Remove cores from vehicle.
To install, reverse removal procedures. See Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 .
BLOWER MOTOR
Disconnect negative battery cable. Disconnect blower electrical connections and remove coolant bottle. Remove
bolts from washer bottle and move out of way. Remove blower motor retaining screws and remove blower. To
install, reverse removal procedures.
Removal & Installation (Blazer/Jimmy, "C", "G", "K", "R" & "V" Series)
Disconnect negative battery cable. On Vans, remove coolant recovery tank and power antenna. On all models,
disconnect blower motor lead wire. Remove blower motor mounting screws. Remove motor and wheel. If
necessary, pry gently on the blower flange to remove. Remove the blower wheel-to-motor shaft nut and remove
wheel from shaft. To install, reverse removal procedures.
Disconnect negative battery cable. Disconnect electrical connectors at blower motor. Remove blower motor
retaining screws and remove blower motor. To install, reverse remove procedures.
CONTROL CABLES
Disconnect battery ground. Remove instrument panel bezel. Remove screws attaching control panel to
instrument panel. Raise lower control and remove cable push nuts and tab attaching screws. Remove glove box
and glove box door as an assembly. Remove cable from retaining clip and remove cable assembly. To install,
reverse removal procedures. Check operation, and adjust if necessary. See Fig. 7 .
Fig. 7: Heater Systems (Pickup) Pickup is shown. Blazer/Jimmy are similar. Courtesy of General Motors
Corp.
1. Disconnect battery ground. Remove glove box and glove box door assembly. Pry off cable clip eyelet clip
from control assembly and heater/defrost assembly with pliers. Unsnap flags from receivers on
heater/defroster assembly and control assembly.
2. Remove cable retaining screws on back of heater/defroster assembly. Reinstall cable by reversing
removal procedures. Test operation and adjust if necessary.
Fig. 8: Auxiliary Heater System ("G" Series)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 9: Auxiliary Heater System (Suburban)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
WIRING DIAGRAMS
Fig. 10: Heater System (All Models)
MANUAL A/C
MODEL IDENTIFICATION
CAUTION: When discharging air conditioning system, use only approved refrigerant
recovery/recycling equipment. Make every attempt to avoid discharging
refrigerant into the atmosphere.
Adjustment and repair procedures in this article are referred to by model name or series. The following table
lists General Motors model name and series designation.
DESCRIPTION
Integral A/C-heater system is a blend-air system. Air entering the vehicle must pass through evaporator core
and through, or around, heater core to provide air of the desired temperature. Compressor operation is
controlled by a pressure cycling switch on top of the accumulator.
Auxiliary A/C systems are available. These systems operate in conjunction with the main system, and provide
air conditioning only (auxiliary heater is a separate unit). Rear blower speed is independent of main system
control. Rear blower may be operated even when front blower is off.
OPERATION
SYSTEM CONTROLS
Mode lever controls a vacuum operated selector valve to operate air door motors, providing desired air
distribution. It also allows for selection of air conditioning or heating functions, including defroster air
distribution.
Temperature control lever regulates the temperature of air entering passenger compartment through a cable
operated blend-air door. In "COLD" position, air by-passes the heater core to provide maximum cooling.
In other positions, air chilled by the evaporator core and heated air from the heater core are mixed to provide air
of the desired temperature. In "HOT" position, A/C system should be off to provide maximum heating.
Blower Switch
Blower switch is a 4-position switch with "LOW", "HI" and 2 intermediate positions. Blower operates in any
mode lever position except "OFF".
Blower switch is the only control provided for auxiliary A/C system. In the "OFF" position, blower is
inoperative, even though refrigerant is circulating through evaporator core when main system is operating. To
operate auxiliary system, simply select desired blower speed. Auxiliary blower may be used for air circulation
when main system is not in A/C mode.
ADJUSTMENTS
TEMPERATURE CONTROL CABLE
Remove glove box and door. Loosen cable attaching screw at selector duct assembly. Make sure cable is
installed in bracket on selector duct assembly. Place temperature selector lever in full "COLD" position and
hold while tightening cable attachment screw.
Remove complete glove box. Disengage temperature cable retaining clip from lever. Bend the cable (to shorten
or lengthen) and reattach. Move temperature selector lever the full range of travel in both directions. A "thud"
should be heard at blend-air door open and closed positions. If not, bend cable and try again.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
See A/C-HEATER SYSTEM TROUBLE SHOOTING in this section.
Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground cable and compressor clutch connector. Discharge A/C system using approved
refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment. Disconnect accumulator inlet and outlet lines and cap or plug
openings.
2. Remove accumulator bracket screws and remove accumulator from vehicle. Drain refrigerant oil from
accumulator and measure quantity drained.
Installation
1. Measure an amount of clean refrigerant oil equal to that drained from accumulator and add an additional 2
ounces. Uncap new accumulator and add oil.
2. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Use new "O" rings lubricated with clean refrigerant
oil. Leak test, evacuate and recharge system.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Remove coolant bottle. Remove 2 bolts from washer bottle and secure
out of way.
2. Remove heater from housing and remove squirrel cage from blower motor and remove both parts. To
install, reverse removal procedure.
Disconnect battery ground. Remove vacuum tank. Remove blower motor flange attaching screws. Remove
blower motor. To install, reverse removal procedure.
1. Disconnect battery ground. Disconnect blower motor wires. Disconnect blower motor cooling tube. On
Van models, remove coolant recovery tank and power antenna.
2. On all models, remove screws attaching blower motor to case and remove blower assembly. Remove nut
attaching blower wheel to motor shaft and separate. To install, reverse removal procedure. Use new
sealant if necessary.
Fig. 1: "R" & "V" Series Blower Motor Installation
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Disconnect battery ground. Disconnect rear duct assembly. Disconnect blower motor ground strap and
lead wire. Support case assembly.
2. Remove lower-to-upper blower-evaporator case screws and lower case and blower motor assembly.
Remove retaining strap and remove motor and wheels. Remove wheels from motor shaft.
3. To install, position wheels on motor shaft making sure tension springs are installed on wheel hubs.
Reverse removal procedure to complete installation, aligning wheels so they do not contact case. See Fig.
2.
Fig. 2: Installation of Auxiliary Blower Motor Wheels
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
CONDENSER
Discharge A/C system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment. Disconnect battery ground.
Remove grill and front panel. Remove radiator tie bar support at top. Disconnect lines for condenser and
remove condenser. To install, reverse removal procedure. Use new "O" rings lubricated with clean refrigerant
oil. Add one ounce of clean refrigerant oil to condenser. Leak test, evacuate and recharge system.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Discharge A/C system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling
equipment. Remove grille, hood lock, and center hood lock support as an assembly. Disconnect
condenser inlet and outlet lines at condenser and cap openings. Remove screws attaching left side
condenser bracket to radiator.
2. Remove screws attaching right side condenser bracket to condenser. Remove condenser from vehicle. To
install, reverse removal procedure. Use new "O" rings lubricated with clean refrigerant oil. Add one
ounce of clean refrigerant oil to condenser. Leak test, evacuate and recharge system.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Discharge A/C system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling
equipment. Remove grille. Remove radiator grille center support. Remove left grille from upper fender
support. Disconnect condenser inlet and outlet lines and cap openings. Remove condenser-to-radiator
support screws.
2. Bend the left grille support outboard to gain clearance. Remove condenser from vehicle by pulling
forward and lowering. To install, reverse removal procedure. Use new "O" rings lubricated with clean
refrigerant oil. Add one ounce of clean refrigerant oil to condenser. Leak test, evacuate and recharge
system.
CONTROL PANEL
Disconnect battery ground cable. Remove instrument panel center bezel. Remove control panel attaching
screws. Remove bulb socket and disconnect vacuum and electrical connectors at control panel. To install,
reverse removal procedure.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Remove headlight switch control knob. Remove instrument panel bezel.
Remove control-to-instrument panel attaching screws. Remove temperature cable eyelet clip and
mounting tab screw.
2. Pull control through instrument panel opening, pulling the lower right mounting tab through first, then the
upper tab and finally the lower left tab. Disconnect electrical and vacuum connections and remove control
panel from vehicle. To install, reverse removal procedure.
1. Disconnect battery ground. Remove radio. Remove instrument panel bezel. Remove control panel
attaching screws and pull control panel out far enough to gain access to back of control panel.
2. Disconnect control cable, vacuum harness and electrical connectors at control panel. Remove control
panel from vehicle. To install, reverse removal procedure.
ORIFICE TUBE
Removal
Discharge A/C system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling equipment. Disconnect liquid line from
the evaporator inlet. Cap opening on line. Using needle-nose pliers, remove orifice tube from evaporator core
inlet line.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Use new "O" rings lubricated with clean refrigerant oil. Insert short
screen end of orifice tube first. See Fig. 3. Leak test, evacuate and recharge system.
EXPANSION VALVE
NOTE: Expansion valve is used on auxiliary units that do not use external equalizer
line.
1. Disconnect battery ground. Discharge refrigerant system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling
equipment. Remove rear duct. Disconnect blower motor ground and lead wires. Support lower case and
motor. Remove screws attaching case halves and lower case and motor assembly. Remove expansion
valve sensing bulb clamps. See Fig. 4.
2. Disconnect valve inlet and outlet lines and remove expansion valve. Cap open connections. To install,
reverse removal procedure. Use new "O" rings lubricated with clean refrigerant oil. Make sure bulb
makes good contact with core outlet line. Leak test, evacuate and recharge system.
Fig. 4: "G", "R" & "V" Series Expansion Valve Installation
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
EVAPORATOR CORE
1. Disconnect battery ground. Discharge refrigerant system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling
equipment. Disconnect blower motor resistor and lay wires out of way. Remove center air duct at air
cleaner. Remove case attaching screws. See Fig. 5.
2. Remove accumulator suction hose. Remove evaporator connector at accumulator. Disconnect line from
condenser, separate case halves and remove evaporator core. To install, reverse removal procedure.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Discharge A/C system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling
equipment. Remove coolant recovery tank and bracket. Disconnect all electrical connectors from core
case assembly. On diesel engine equipped vehicles, remove blower motor relay, radiator, heater valve and
blower motor insulation covers. On all vehicles, remove bracket at evaporator case. Remove right-hand
marker light for access.
2. Disconnect accumulator inlet line and outlet line. Remove brackets attaching accumulator to case.
Disconnect evaporator inlet line. Remove 3 nuts and screw attaching module to firewall. Remove core
case assembly from vehicle.
3. Remove screws and separate case sections. Remove evaporator core. To install, reverse removal
procedure. Use new "O" rings lubricated with clean refrigerant oil. Add 3 ounces of clean refrigerant oil
to new condenser. Leak test, evacuate and recharge system.
Removal & Installation ("S" & "T" Series)
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Discharge A/C system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling
equipment. Remove blower motor resistor screws and lay resistor aside with wires attached. Remove air
cleaner attaching screws and lay air cleaner aside. Remove 5 screws and 2 nuts at case. Disconnect
connector at A/C harness. Separate case halves and remove evaporator core cover.
2. Disconnect liquid line and evaporator-to-accumulator line. Remove screw attaching evaporator line
bracket to accumulator bracket. Remove evaporator core including orifice tube from vehicle. To install,
reverse removal procedure. Use new "O" rings lubricated with clean refrigerant oil. Leak test, evacuate
and recharge system.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Discharge A/C system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling
equipment. Remove nuts from selector duct studs projecting through firewall. Remove cover-to-dash and
cover-to-case screws and remove evaporator case cover. Disconnect evaporator core inlet and outlet lines
and cap openings.
2. Remove expansion tube. Remove evaporator core assembly. To install, reverse removal procedure. Use
new "O" rings lubricated with clean refrigerant oil. Add 3 ounces of clean refrigerant oil to evaporator.
Leak test, evacuate and recharge system.
Fig. 5: Exploded View of Astro & Safari A/C-Heater Assembly
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Discharge A/C system using approved refrigerant recovery/recycling
equipment. Remove rear duct. Disconnect blower motor ground and lead wires. Disconnect refrigerant
lines at rear of evaporator-blower assembly. Cap openings. Remove screws attaching evaporator-blower
assembly to roof rail. See Fig. 6.
2. Lower evaporator-blower assembly and place on a work bench upside down. Remove case half attaching
screws and remove upper case half from evaporator core. Remove expansion valve inlet and outlet lines
and cap openings. Remove expansion valve capillary bulb from evaporator outlet line and remove valve.
3. Remove plastic pins holding screen to core and remove screen. To install, reverse removal procedure. Use
new "O" rings lubricated with clean refrigerant oil. Make sure capillary bulb has good contact with line.
Add 3 ounces of clean refrigerant oil to new core. Leak test, evacuate and recharge system.
Disconnect battery ground. Disconnect drain tube from rear duct. Remove screws attaching duct to roof panel
and rear header brackets. Remove duct. To install, reverse removal procedure.
HEATER CORE
Disconnect battery ground cable. Drain coolant. Disconnect heater hoses at heater core and plug openings. On
Astro and Safari, remove lower right instrument panel, air distributor cables, vacuum hoses and air ducts. On all
models, remove core cover attaching screws. Remove retainers at core ends and remove core. To install, reverse
removal procedure. See Fig. 7.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Remove engine cover. Remove steering column-to-instrument panel
attaching bolts and lower column. Remove upper and lower instrument panel attaching screws and radio
support bracket attaching screw. Raise and support right side of instrument panel.
2. Remove right lower instrument panel support bracket. Remove recirculating air door vacuum actuator.
Disconnect temperature cable and vacuum hoses at distributor case. Remove heater distributor duct.
Remove 2 defroster duct-to-firewall attaching screws. From engine compartment, disconnect heater hoses
and plug.
3. Remove 3 nuts attaching heater core case to firewall panel and screw at lower right corner. Remove
heater distributor from vehicle. Remove gasket to expose screws attaching case sections together. See
Fig. 5. Remove temperature cable support bracket. Remove case attaching screws and separate case.
Remove heater core. To install, reverse removal procedure.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. Drain radiator and disconnect heater hoses from heater core. Plug
openings. Remove glove box and door. Remove screws attaching center duct to selector duct and
instrument panel. Remove center ducts (lower and upper). Disconnect temperature control cable at blend-
air door.
2. Remove nuts from the 3 selector duct studs projecting through firewall. Remove screw attaching selector
duct to firewall. Pull selector duct rearward until heater core tubes clear firewall. Lower selector duct far
enough to gain access to vacuum and electrical harnesses.
3. Disconnect vacuum and electrical harnesses. Remove selector duct assembly. Remove core mounting
straps and core. To install, reverse removal procedure. Adjust temperature control cable.
WIRING DIAGRAMS
Fig. 11: Astro & Safari (Main) A/C-Heater System Wiring Diagram
Fig. 13: Astro & Safari (Auxiliary) A/C-Heater Sys. Wiring Diagram
Fig. 14: "G" Series (Auxiliary) A/C-Heater System Wiring Diagram
Fig. 15: "R" & "V" Series (Main) A/C-Heater System Wiring Diagram
Fig. 16: "R" & "V" Series (Auxiliary) A/C-Heater Wiring Diagram
Fig. 17: "S" & "T" Series A/C-Heater System Wiring Diagram
OIL CIRCUIT DIAGRAMS
Hydra-Matic 700R4
DISTRIBUTORS & IGNITION SYSTEMS HEI, HEI/EST, HEI/ESC & HEI/EST/ESC Ignition
DESCRIPTION
HIGH ENERGY IGNITION (HEI)
The High Energy Ignition (HEI) system uses an iron reluctor, pickup, and ignition module to replace the
breaker points of yesteryear.
The iron reluctor ("star wheel") is mounted on the distributor shaft. The reluctor has one "tooth" per cylinder,
hence a four cylinder engine has four teeth, a six cylinder engine has six teeth, and an eight cylinder engine has
eight teeth.
When the rotating reluctor lines up with corresponding iron pieces on the stationary pickup, an alternating
current is produced.
The ignition module senses the alternating current created in the pickup and releases the ground of the ignition
coil, thereby causing the secondary to fire. After the firing event, the ignition module restores the ground to the
coil to saturate it for the next firing event.
High Energy Ignition (HEI) with Electronic Spark Timing (EST) differs from plain HEI by discarding the
traditional centrifugal and vacuum advance components in favor of more-precise ECM control.
The HEI-EST system uses a 4-wire link between the distributor and ECM to communicate control data.
The ECM monitors all relevant sensors to compute the best advance or retard based on current engine
conditions. For instance, the Coolant Temperature Sensor input causes timing advance when the engine is cold,
with progressive retardation as the engine warms up. If the engine overheats, spark is retarded to prevent
detonation.
The Throttle Position Sensor causes timing advance during light throttle operations.
The Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor causes less spark advance when output voltage is low (high vacuum),
and more advance when output voltage is high (low vacuum).
NOTE: On distributors with integral coil, the 7-digit distributor part number is stamped
on the lower skirt of the distributor housing. On distributors with separate coil,
the part number is located on a label on the side of the distributor cap.
HEI-EST WITH ELECTRONIC SPARK CONTROL (ESC)
Electronic Spark Control (ESC) adds detonation detection and correction functionality to the HEI-EST system.
This allows maximum performance due to aggressive spark advance schedules.
No modifications are made to the distributor or ignition module. Rather, a detonation sensor or detonation
sensor/detonation module combination is wired to the ECM and is treated like another sensor. When the ECM
detects detonation, timing is retarded accordingly.
Electronic Spark Control (ESC) adds detonation detection and correction functionality to the base HEI system.
This allows maximum performance due to aggressive spark advance schedules from the vacuum and centrifigul
advance devices.
The HEI ignition module is modified to communicate with an external detonation module via a four-wire
connection. The external detonation module utilizes a detonation sensor and possibly a "tip-in" vacuum sensor.
The latter, when used, provides extra spark advance during acceleration (tip-in) conditions.
The detonation module is an integral part of the ignition module triggering loop. If the four-wire connector is
unplugged, a no-spark condition will result.
Beware of mistaking the four-wire connector for an EST connector. If unsure, look for a vacuum advance along
with the four-wire connector. If one is found, it's an HEI-ESC system. Otherwise, it's an HEI-EST-ESC system.
OPERATION
HEI-EST (EXCEPT "S" & "T" TRUCK W/2.5L)
The following section describes the operation of the four circuits (four-wire connector) used to communicate
data between the ECM and ignition module. It performs the following functions:
Terminal "A" of the 4-wire connector is the reference ground low. It is grounded in the distributor and ensures
ground circuit does not have a voltage drop. If circuit is open, engine may experience poor performance.
Terminal "B" - BYPASS
Terminal "B" of the 4-wire connector is the by-pass circuit. At about 400 RPM, the ECM applies 5 volts to this
circuit to switch spark timing control from module to ECM. An open or grounded by-pass circuit will set a
Code 42 and the engine will operate at base timing, plus a slight amount of advance built into the module.
Terminal "C" is the distributor reference High circuit. This circuit provides the ECM with RPM and crankshaft
position information.
Terminal "D" is the EST circuit, which triggers the module. The ECM does not know what actual timing is, but
does know when it receives the reference signal. It will advance or retard the spark from that point. If base
timing is set incorrectly, engine spark curve will be incorrect.
The following section describes the operation of the four circuits (four-wire connector) used to communicate
data between the ECM and ignition module. It performs the following functions:
Terminal "A" of the 4-wire connector is the EST (Electronic Spark Timing) circuit. It carries ignition timing
instructions from the ECM to the ignition module.
The EST waveform is a lower-amplitude, squared off copy of the REF waveform (terminal B) that is simply
shifted forward or backwards in time to command timing advance or retard.
The ignition module ignores all EST data until the ECM sets the BYPASS high at 5 volts (terminal C). Once the
BYPASS is locked at 5 volts, the ignition module relies exclusively on the EST to fire the ignition coil. The
engine will stall if the EST signal fails/opens when the BYPASS is high. If the BYPASS is low, the engine will
run without the EST circuit.
Terminal "B" of the 4-wire connector is the REF (ignition REFerence) circuit. It carries engine speed/crankshaft
position information directly from the hall effect switch to the ECM. The REF signal is not created by the
ignition module nor passes through it.
The waveform is a typical hall effect pattern, with high-to-low switches mirroring the shutter wheel passing
through the hall effect. Amplitude is under .5 volts during the low state, and near battery voltage during the high
state.
The REF signal is the most important "sensor" on the engine. Without this input, the ECM would never know
when the engine was rotating, hence no injector pulse nor RPM reading on a scan tool during engine cranking.
Terminal "C" - BYPASS
Terminal "C" of the 4-wire connector is the BYPASS circuit. The BYPASS signal originates from the ECM and
is sent to the ignition module. When the BYPASS is low (0 volts), the ignition module uses the in-the-
distributor reluctor wheel (not the hall effect switch) to set the timing/fire the coil. When it is high (5 volts), the
ignition module is commanded to use the EST to set the timing/fire the coil.
Normally, BYPASS is fixed low during cranking and fixed high high while the engine is running. The ECM
changes the state from low to high when the engine speed exceeds approximately 400 RPM.
On some models, the BYPASS wire contains an additional single-wire connector located someplace between
the 4-wire connector and the ECM. This is disconnected when checking or adjusting base timing.
Terminal "D" of the 4-wire connector is the REF LOW (ignition REFerence LOW) circuit. It provides the ECM
with the reference ground of the distributor. This allows the ECM to baseline the REF signal and correct for any
minor voltage drop errors.
The waveform should be a nearly horizontal line at 0 volts with only minor voltage fluctuates (from ignition
coil operation).
HEI-ESC SYSTEM
The detonation sensor translates mechanical vibration into an AC voltage. This voltage typically runs on top of
an DC reference voltage provided by the external detonation module.
The detonation sensor translates every vibration into AC output voltage. The stronger the vibration, the higher
the amplitude. Detonation creates the strongest output.
The detonation module ignores all signals below a certain threshold as none-detonation noise, but retards timing
for all signals above the threshold (detonation).
Beware of clearance in the valve train, or a loose trailer on a hitch, as they may create sufficient vibration to be
considered as detonation.
If a tip-in hesitation is occurring and a tip-in sensor is being used, be sure to check it for proper operation. It
works by triggering the detonation module to provide extra advance when the engine vacuum falls below an
unspecified range.
As noted earlier in the DESCRIPTION section of this article, the engine will not run without the four-connector
and detonation module connected, and both modules working correctly.
For a no-start situation, the detonation module can be eliminated from the circuit by unplugging the four-wire
connector at the distributor and jumping terminals "A" to "C" on the distributor side of the connection. If spark
returns, the detonation module or related wiring, power, or ground is faulty.
HEI-EST-ESC SYSTEM
The detonation sensor translates mechanical vibration into an AC voltage. This voltage typically runs on top of
an DC reference voltage provided by the external detonation module or ECM for diagnostic purposes.
The detonation sensor translates every vibration into AC output voltage. The stronger the vibration, the higher
the amplitude. Detonation creates the strongest output.
As noted earlier in the DESCRIPTION section of this article, the detonation sensor either communicates
directly to the ECM or runs through an intermediary "detonation module".
In either case, the detonation module or ECM ignore all signals below a certain threshold as none-detonation
noise, but retards timing for all signals above the threshold (detonation).
The ECM can retard timing directly, but the external detonation module must signal the ECM through a single-
wire communications circuit. The ignition module leaves nine volts on the circuit to communicate no
detonation, and grounds it to communicate detonation. The ECM responds appropriately.
If a retarded timing-type driveability problem is occurring, be sure to unplug this circuit to see if the problem
goes away. If so, either the detonation module is falsely triggering a detonation condition, or the circuit is
shorted to ground.
Beware of clearance in the valve train, or a loose trailer on a hitch, as they may create sufficient vibration to be
considered as detonation.
DIAGNOSIS
ALL HEI/HEI-EST (EXCEPT "S" & "T" TRUCK W/2.5L)
If EST signal is interrupted and the BYPASS is high, the engine will stall. If a restart is attempted, the engine
will restart and run up to approximately 400 RPM and stall again.
If EST signal is interrupted and the BYPASS is low, the engine will run on base timing with only a slight
advance provided via the ignition module. A lack-of-power is very apparent, as well as a likely engine overheat
due to the retarded timing.
The ignition system used on this vehicle is an unusual implementation of HEI/EST and can cause misdiagnosis
if the differences are not understood.
This system has both a reluctor/pickup (e.g. PM generator) and a hall effect. The ONLY time the PM generator
is used is during cranking. It is ignored after the ECM switches the BYPASS high at approximately 400 RPM.
To re-emphasize, the PM generator is ignored after the BYPASS is switched high.
The hall effect switch communicates directly to the ECM to communicate engine speed/crankshaft position
information. The ignition module has absolutely no part in this communication; the hall effect is hardwired only
to the ECM.
If there is a failure in one of the sensors, interesting combinations can occur. For example, if the PM generator
fails, spark will be absent during cranking though injector pulse is present. If the hall effect fails, spark will be
present while injector pulse is absent (during cranking). If both fail, both spark and injector pulse will be absent.
HEI-ESC
Beware of clearance in the valve train, or a loose trailer on a hitch, as they may create sufficient vibration to be
considered as detonation.
If a tip-in hesitation is occurring and a tip-in sensor is being used, be sure to check it for proper operation. It
works by triggering the detonation module to provide extra advance when the engine vacuum falls below an
unspecified range.
As noted earlier in the DESCRIPTION section of this article, the engine will not run without the four-connector
and detonation module connected, and both modules working correctly.
For a no-start situation, the detonation module can be eliminated from the circuit by unplugging the four-wire
connector at the distributor and jumping terminals "A" to "C" on the distributor side of the connection. If spark
returns, the detonation module or related wiring, power, or ground is faulty.
HEI-EST-ESC
The ECM can retard timing directly, but the external detonation module must signal the ECM through a single-
wire communications circuit. The ignition module leaves nine volts on the circuit to communicate no
detonation, and grounds it to communicate detonation. The ECM responds appropriately.
If a retarded timing-type driveability problem is occurring, be sure to unplug this circuit to see if the problem
goes away. If so, either the detonation module is falsely triggering a detonation condition, or the circuit is
shorted to ground.
Beware of clearance in the valve train, or a loose trailer on a hitch, as they may create sufficient vibration to be
considered as detonation.
COMPONENT TESTING
ELECTRONIC MODULE (HEI)
NOTE: Testing applies to HEI systems with mechanical weights and vacuum advance
only.
1. An approved electronic module tester must be used to test the module. Use Module Tester (J-24642-E).
Follow manufacturer's instructions.
2. When installing a new HEI control module, use silicone lubricant on module-to-distributor housing
contact surface to assist heat dispersement.
NOTE: Activation of the vacuum advance may align trigger wheel tooth and pick-up
coil pole piece causing ohmmeter pointer to deflect. This deflection should not
be diagnosed as a faulty pick-up coil.
1. Isolate 2 pick-up coil lead wires. Remove pick-up coil connector from module. Connect ohmmeter to
either terminal and ground. See Fig. 4. Connect pump and apply vacuum to test vacuum advance unit.
Replace vacuum advance unit if inoperative. Connect ohmmeter to pick-up coil terminals. Operate
vacuum pump and observe ohmmeter throughout the vacuum range.
2. Attach ohmmeter to one pick-up coil terminal and distributor housing. Set ohmmeter to middle scale.
Operate vacuum advance throughout vacuum range. Reading should be infinite at all times. If not, replace
pick-up coil. See Meter "A" in Fig. 4.
3. Connect ohmmeter leads to pick-up coil connector terminals. Operate vacuum pump to ensure proper
operation throughout vacuum range. Flex terminal wires by hand to check for possible intermittent
defects in wiring or connectors. Pick-up resistance should be 500-1500 ohms. If resistance is incorrect,
replace pick-up coil. See Meter "B" in Fig. 4.
Fig. 4: Pick-Up Coil Test Connections
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
CAPACITOR (HEI)
The capacitor is used for radio noise suppression. Set ohmmeter at x1000 scale. Disconnect capacitor. Touch
ohmmeter leads to capacitor terminal and ground. Slight needle movement will occur rapidly and return to
infinity. A continuous reading other than infinity indicates defective capacitor.
1. Turn ignition off. Remove the distributor cap and coil assembly. Turn upside down. See Fig. 6. Set
ohmmeter to low scale. Connect leads to coil "BAT" and "TACH" terminals. If resistance exceeds one
ohm, replace ignition coil.
2. Set ohmmeter on high scale. Connect one lead to coil secondary terminal and the other lead first to
"TACH" terminal and then to ground terminal. If resistance reading in BOTH instances is infinity, replace
ignition coil.
1. Disconnect pick-up coil leads from HEI/EST module terminals "N" and "P". Set ohmmeter to middle
scale and connect one lead to either pick-up coil lead and the other lead to distributor housing. See Fig. 7.
Flex pick-up coil leads by hand to check for intermittent shorts to ground. Reading should be infinity at
all times. If not, replace pick-up coil.
2. Connect ohmmeter between both pick-up coil leads. Check for intermittent opens by flexing wires and
connectors. Resistance should be 500-1500 ohms. If not, replace pick-up coil.
Connect a 12-volt battery and voltmeter. See Fig. 9. With a knife blade inserted and held against the magnet,
the voltmeter should read within 0.5 volts of the battery voltage. If not, replace the switch. Remove the knife
blade. The voltmeter should read less than 0.5 volts. If not, replace the switch.
Fig. 7: Checking Distributor Pick-Up Coil
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 8: Integral Coil Spark Tester (ST-125) Hook-Up
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 9: Checking Hall Effect Switch
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
NOTE: Diagnosis of HEI systems with EST and EST/ESC require thorough
understanding of Computer Command Control (CCC) system. For testing, see
appropriate IGNITION SYSTEM CHECK flow chart in COMPUTERIZED ENGINE
CONTROLS section. For diagnosis of HEI system, refer to following diagnostic
chart. See Fig. 10.
Fig. 10: Ignition System Check (HEI Only)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
OVERHAUL
Fig. 14: HEI/EST Ignition System Wiring Diagram (Includes Hall Effect Variant On 2.5L)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
IGNITION SWITCH & LOCK CYLINDER
ACCESSORIES & SAFETY EQUIPMENT General Motors Igntion Switch & Lock Cylinders
DESCRIPTION
The ignition lock cylinder is typically mounted below turn signal switch and is actuated by ignition key. The
ignition switch is typically mounted at base of steering column, inside channel section of brake pedal support.
The ignition switch is actuated by a rod and rack assembly. A portion of rack is toothed and engages a gear on
end of lock cylinder. This enables the rod and rack to be moved axially, with respect to column, to actuate
ignition switch when lock cylinder is rotated.
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove horn button cap. Remove retainer and steering wheel nut.
Disconnect horn lead (if equipped). Mark relationship of steering wheel to shaft. Use Steering Wheel Puller (J-
1859-03) to remove steering wheel. To install, reverse removal procedure.
Removal
1) Remove steering wheel. Remove instrument panel trim cover. Position screwdriver blade into steering shaft
lock plate cover slot. Pry up and out to free cover from lock plate.
2) Screw center post of Lock Plate Compressor (J-23653-A or J-23653-B) onto steering shaft as far as it will go.
Compress lock plate by turning center post nut clockwise. Pry retaining ring out of steering shaft. Remove
compressor and lock plate.
3) Remove turn signal lever screw and lever. Remove hazard warning knob. Press knob inward and then
unscrew. Remove turn signal switch mounting screws. Position turn signal switch and shifter housing in low
gear position. Remove wiring harness cover by carefully pulling downward on tab provided.
4) Pull switch connector out of bracket and feed connector through column support bracket. Pull turn signal
switch straight up, guiding the wiring harness and cover through column housing.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. On non-tilt steering columns, ensure wiring harness is on protector. Feed
connector and cover down through housing and under mounting screw. On tilt columns, feed connector down
through housing and under mounting bracket. Install cover on harness.
LOCK CYLINDER
Removal
Turn ignition key to "RUN" position. Remove steering wheel and turn signal switch. It is not necessary to
completely remove switch from column. Pull switch out far enough to slip it over end of shaft. DO NOT pull
harness out of column. Carefully remove retaining screw and lock cylinder.
Installation
Turn ignition key clockwise against stop while holding lock cylinder. See Fig. 1. Align lock cylinder with
keyway in housing. Push lock cylinder in and install retaining screw. To complete installation, reverse removal
procedure.
Fig. 1: Lock Cylinder Installation
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
IGNITION SWITCH
NOTE: "P" series ignition switch removal and installation procedures not available
from manufacturer.
Removal
1) Lower steering column and support column to avoid causing damage. Place ignition switch in "LOCK"
position (one detent down from full up position). See Fig. 2. Remove 2 screws and switch assembly from
vehicle.
2) If lock cylinder was removed, the actuating rod should be pull up until there is a definite stop, then move rod
down one detent (into "LOCK" position). Remove 2 screws and switch assembly from vehicle.
Installation
Place lock and switch in "LOCK" position (one detent down from full up position). Insert actuating rod into
switch and install switch using mounting screws. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Steering Column Support Bracket Screws 22 (30)
Steering Wheel Nut 30 (40)
INCH Lbs. (N.m)
Ignition Switch Screws 35 (4.0)
Lock Cylinder Retaining Screw 40 (4.5)
Turn Signal Switch Screws 35 (4.0)
INSTRUMENT PANEL - STANDARD & ELECTRONIC
ACCESSORIES & SAFETY EQUIPMENT General Motors Switches & Instrument Panels
All Models
Standard mechanical instrument clusters on all models except "S" series are designed to permit the removal and
installation of all control switches and illuminating bulbs from the driver's side. The standard instrument
clusters are equipped with warning lights. Optional instrument clusters come equipped with gauges, as well as
warning lights.
The electronic instrument cluster is a solid-state device that uses a digital display to transmit information to
driver. The electronic instrument cluster receives signals from several components and systems on vehicle.
The electronic instrument cluster receives input signals from: English/Metric switch, odometer trip switch,
battery, odometer reset switch, ignition, lighting system, oil sending unit, fuel sending unit, charging system,
temperature sending unit, and the digital ratio adapter controller.
The vehicle speed sensor signal originates at transmission, and is changed to a digital signal by the digital ratio
adapter controller. The electronic instrument cluster does not contain any serviceable components and is
serviced as an assembly.
SPEEDOMETER/ODOMETER
The speedometer is a mechanical type unit that is driven by a cased cable which is connected to transmission.
The Digital Ratio Adapter Controller (DRAC), or Digital Ratio Adapter (DRA) on "C" and "K" series, is a
solid-state device that is used to change the signal from the vehicle speed sensor to a digital signal for
speedometer operation.
The DRAC (DRA) is matched to the final drive ratio of each vehicle. If the final drive ratio is changed for any
reason, the DRAC (DRA) must be changed on Astro, "S" series and Safari (recalibrated on "C" and "K" series)
to maintain accurate speedometer/odometer reading. Incorrect DRAC (DRA) calibration will also affect Rear
Wheel Anti-Lock (RWAL), Electronic Control Module (ECM), and cruise control module.
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is a permanent magnet signal generator located on transmission output shaft
housing. A toothed rotor rotates near a coil producing voltage pulses that are sent to the DRAC or buffer.
FUEL GAUGE
All Models
The pointer in fuel gauge is moved by the magnetic field of 2 coils. The coils are at right angles to each other.
Battery voltage is applied to the empty coil and the circuit is divided at the opposite end of the coil. One path
continues to ground through the full coil, while other path goes to ground through the fuel gauge sending unit (a
variable resistor) in fuel tank.
When fuel level in tank is low, the fuel gauge sending unit resistance is low. A large flow of current passes
through the empty coil and the fuel gauge sending unit resistor. This moves fuel gauge pointer to toward the
"E" (empty) position.
When fuel level in tank is high, the fuel gauge sending unit resistance is high. More current now flows through
the full coil, moving the fuel gauge pointer toward the "F" (full) position. With 2 coils operating pointer, the
fuel gauge is not affected by changes in battery voltage.
All Models
The coolant temperature gauge is also operated by 2 coils. One coil is directly grounded and the other is
grounded through the coolant temperature sending unit. The sending unit has a resistance of 55 ohms at 260°F
(127°C) and a resistance of 1400 ohms at 100°F (38°C). As coolant temperature increases, current flow through
sending unit and one coil increases, causing pointer to move.
All Models
The oil pressure gauge pointer is moved by 2 coils. Its operation is similar to that of fuel gauge. The oil pressure
sending unit is connected to the junction of the 2 coils. The sending unit has a low resistance when oil pressure
is low and a resistance of 90 ohms when oil pressure is high. A change in resistance changes current flow
through field coils, causing pointer to move from low to high.
VOLTMETER
All Models
The voltmeter measures voltage of charging system. On Astro and Safari, the voltmeter uses an internal shunt
and is connected to Black wire (terminal No. 11) and Pink/Black wire (terminal No. 17) of connector No 1.
The oil pressure warning system consists of an oil pressure switch and a warning light on instrument cluster.
The oil pressure switch closes when oil pressure drops below 4 psi (.28 kg/cm2 ).
The coolant temperature warning system consists of temperature switch and warning light on instrument cluster.
When coolant overheats, the switch closes and the warning light comes on. The switch closes when coolant
temperature reaches 257°F (125°C).
The charging system warning system consists of a warning light with one side of bulb connected to alternator
and the other side of bulb connected to battery. If a charging system malfunction is detected, the warning light
will come on.
The brake warning system consists of a differential switch on brake combination valve and warning light on
instrument cluster. If a hydraulic malfunction is detected, the warning light will come on.
This optional warning light comes on when engine coolant temperature is too high or when engine oil pressure
is too low. The signals from the engine coolant temperature and oil pressure sending units are monitored by the
"CHECK GAGES" light driver. The light driver is an integral part of the temperature gauge circuit board.
ADJUSTMENTS
SPEEDOMETER CALIBRATION
NOTE: Do not touch pins at back of instrument cluster as immediate damage to cluster
will occur. The DRAC must be replaced or recalibrated when rear axle ratio or
tire size is changed.
1. Remove instrument cluster from vehicle. Plug connector from service kit into back of instrument cluster
and momentarily touch the wires across the vehicle battery terminals.
NOTE: The connector from service kit should be used a maximum of 10 times. It
is not necessary to perform step 1) if speedometer has been previously
recalibrated. Follow specific instructions provided with service kit.
2. Check INSTRUMENT PANEL CALIBRATION SPECIFICATIONS using vehicle axle ratio and
corresponding tire size to find the appropriate pins to be removed from clip. The rectangular end of clip is
at the top. The pins are numbered 1 through 8 from top to bottom. See Fig. 1 .
3. Remove pins by bending them back and forth with long needle nose pliers. Insert modified clip into 8
holes in rectangular slot on back of instrument cluster. Install instrument cluster in vehicle.
Fig. 1: "C" & "K" Series Speedometer Calibration
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
TESTING
FUEL GAUGE
1. If gauge constantly reads "E" (empty), go to next step. If gauge constantly reads "F" (full), go to step 4).
If gauge reading is inaccurate, go to step 6).
2. Check for fuel in tank. If empty, fill tank with fuel. If gauge continues to indicate "E" (empty), check for
a grounded fuel gauge circuit by disconnecting lead at fuel tank.
3. Fuel gauge should now read past "F" (full) mark. If gauge does not read past "F" (full) mark, replace fuel
gauge sending unit. If gauge still reads "E" (empty), find short to ground between gauge and fuel tank.
4. If gauge reads "F" (full), check for an open circuit between gauge and sending unit by disconnecting
sending lead at fuel tank. Connect lead to ground and note reading on gauge.
5. If fuel gauge reads "E" (empty), replace fuel gauge sending unit. If fuel gauge still reads "F" (full) or
beyond, find open wire between gauge and fuel tank.
6. If gauge reading is inaccurate, check wiring for corroded or loose connections. Clean and tighten as
required. If okay, remove fuel gauge sending unit. Using an ohmmeter, test sending unit resistance. See
FUEL GAUGE SENDING UNIT RESISTANCE table.
7. If sending unit values are correct, disconnect front body connector. Connect Gauge Tester (J-24538-A) to
lead that goes to gauge. Turn ignition on. If gauge reads accurately, check wiring between rear
compartment and front connector.
8. If gauge reads between 1/4 and 1/2 full with tester set at 90 ohms, remove gauge and check for loose nuts
at gauge terminals. If nuts are tight and gauge still reads inaccurately, replace fuel gauge.
1. Disconnect fuel gauge sender wire and connect Gauge Tester (J-24538-A) between sender wire and
ground. Turn ignition on. If gauge responds, but not accurately, go to next step. If gauge does not
respond, go to step 3). If gauge responds accurately, go to step 5).
2. Remove gauge and check for loose nuts at gauge terminals. If nuts are loose and gauge reads between 1/4
and 1/2 with 90 ohms from tester, tighten nuts and install gauge. If gauge is still inaccurate and nuts are
tight, replace gauge.
3. Disconnect front body connector. Connect tester to lead that goes to gauge. If gauge responds accurately,
check wiring between rear compartment and front body connector. If gauge does not respond, go to next
step.
4. Remove gauge. Check for bad connections at gauge terminals or instrument cluster connector. If
connections are good, replace gauge. If bad, repair connections and install gauge.
5. Check rear compartment connector and wiring to sender. If okay, replace sender. If not okay, repair wire
or connector.
NOTE: If vehicle is equipped with electronic oil pressure gauge, See ELECTRONIC
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER TEST in this article.
1. If gauge constantly reads "0" psi, go to next step. If gauge constantly reads "80" psi or above, go to step
4). If gauge reading is inaccurate, go to step 6).
2. Check oil level. Add oil if necessary. If gauge continues to indicate "0" psi, check for a grounded oil
pressure gauge circuit by disconnecting lead at sending unit.
3. Oil pressure gauge should now read "80" psi. If gauge stays at "0" psi, disconnect lead from gauge. Oil
pressure gauge should now read "80" psi. If correct, find short to ground between gauge and sending unit.
If gauge reads "0" psi, replace gauge and test oil pressure gauge sending unit resistance. Refer to, in this
article, OIL PRESSURE GAUGE SENDING UNIT RESISTANCE table. Replace sending unit if it
reads one ohm with engine running.
4. If gauge reads "80" psi or above, check for an open circuit between gauge and sending unit by
disconnecting lead at sending unit. Connect lead to ground and note reading on gauge.
5. If oil pressure gauge reads "0" psi, replace oil pressure gauge sending unit. If oil pressure gauge still reads
"80" psi or beyond, find open wire between gauge and sending unit.
6. If gauge readings are inaccurate, disconnect lead from oil pressure sending unit. Connect Gauge Tester
(J24538-A) to lead and ground. Turn ignition on. If gauge reads accurately, replace oil pressure sending
unit. If gauge still reads inaccurately, replace oil pressure gauge.
1. Disconnect oil pressure gauge sender wire and connect Gauge Tester (J-24538-A) between sender wire
and ground. Turn ignition on. If gauge responds to tester accurately, replace sender. If gauge does not
respond, go to next step. If gauge responds, but not accurately, go to step 4).
2. Disconnect oil pressure gauge lead at engine harness connector. Connect tester to lead that goes to gauge.
If gauge responds to tester accurately, check wiring between sender connector and engine harness
connector. If gauge does not respond, go to next step.
3. Remove gauge. Check for bad connections at gauge terminals or instrument cluster connector. If
connections are good, replace gauge. If bad, repair connections and install gauge.
4. Remove gauge and check for loose nuts at gauge terminals. If nuts are loose and gauge reads slightly
below mid-scale with 90 ohms from tester, tighten nuts and install gauge. If gauge is still inaccurate and
nuts are tight, replace gauge.
If warning light does not come on (engine off, switch on), check for burned out light bulb. Replace bulb if
necessary. If bulb is okay, check for an open in circuit. To do so, remove lead from oil pressure switch and
ground lead. If warning light does not come on, find open in circuit. If light comes on, replace switch.
1. If gauge reads "COLD" when engine is hot, go to next step. If gauge reads "HOT" when engine is cold,
go to step 5). If gauge readings are too low, go to step 7). If gauge readings are too high, go to step 8).
2. Check for blown fuse and replace if necessary. If fuse is okay, disconnect lead from sending unit and turn
ignition on. Connect a test light between lead and ground. If test light glows, go to next step. If not, go to
step 4).
3. Connect lead to a known good ground. If temperature gauge reads "HOT", check lead connector on
sending unit. If okay, replace sending unit. If gauge still reads "COLD", replace temperature gauge.
4. If test light did not glow, check continuity between sending unit terminal at gauge and ground, and
between ignition terminal and ground. Also check temperature gauge case ground. If all checks are okay,
replace temperature gauge.
5. If gauge constantly reads "HOT", remove lead from temperature gauge sending unit. Gauge reading
should go to "COLD". If gauge reading does not swing to "COLD", check sending unit for an external
short. If there is no external short, replace sending unit.
6. If temperature gauge continues to read "HOT" after replacing sending unit, check for short circuit in
wiring between sending unit and gauge. If no short exists, replace temperature gauge.
7. If readings are inaccurate, check wiring for corroded or loose connections. If necessary, clean and tighten
terminals and connections. Also check resistance in temperature sending unit ground circuit. If terminals
connections and ground circuit are okay, go to next step.
8. Disconnect lead from temperature gauge sending unit. Using an ohmmeter, test sending unit resistance.
See TEMPERATURE GAUGE SENDING UNIT RESISTANCE table. If sending unit values are
incorrect, replace temperature gauge sending unit.
1. If gauge reads "100" when engine is hot, go to next step. If gauge reads "260" when engine is cold, go to
step 5). If gauge readings are too low, go to step 7). If gauge readings are too high, go to step 8).
2. Check for blown fuse and replace if necessary. If fuse is okay, disconnect lead from sending unit and turn
ignition on. Connect a test light between lead and ground. Gauge should indicate "260". If test light
glows, go to next step. If not, go to step 4).
3. Connect lead to a known good ground. If temperature gauge reads "100", check lead connector on
sending unit. If okay, replace sending unit. If gauge still reads "100", replace temperature gauge.
4. If test light did not glow, check continuity between sending unit terminal at gauge and ground, and
between ignition terminal and ground. Also check temperature gauge case ground. If all checks are okay,
replace temperature gauge.
5. If gauge constantly reads "260", remove lead from temperature gauge sending unit. If gauge does not
swing to "100", check sending unit for an external short. If there is no external short, replace sending unit.
6. If temperature gauge continues to read "260", check for short circuit in wiring between sending unit and
gauge. If no short exists, replace temperature gauge.
7. If readings are inaccurate, check wiring for corroded or loose connections. If necessary, clean and tighten
terminals and connections. Also check resistance in temperature sending unit ground circuit. If terminals
connections and ground circuit are okay, go to next step.
8. Disconnect lead from temperature gauge sending unit. Using an ohmmeter, test sending unit resistance.
See TEMPERATURE GAUGE SENDING UNIT RESISTANCE table. If sending unit values are
incorrect, replace temperature gauge sending unit.
1. Disconnect temperature gauge sender wire and connect Gauge Tester (J-24538-A) between sender wire
and ground. Turn ignition on. If gauge responds to tester accurately, replace sender. If gauge does not
respond or is inaccurate, go to next step. If gauge responds well beyond "HOT", go to step 4).
2. Disconnect temperature gauge lead at engine harness connector. Connect tester to lead that goes to gauge.
If gauge responds to tester accurately, check wiring between sender connector and engine harness
connector. If gauge does not respond, go to step 3).
3. Remove gauge. Check for bad connections at gauge terminals or instrument cluster connector. If
connections are good, replace gauge. If bad, repair connections and install gauge.
4. Remove gauge and check for loose nuts at gauge terminals or lack of ground connection to gauge. If
connections are good, replace gauge. If connections are bad, repair connections and install gauge.
If warning light does not come on during bulb check, check for burned out light bulb. Replace bulb if necessary.
If bulb is okay, check for an open in circuit. To do so, remove lead from coolant temperature switch and ground
lead. If warning light does not come on, find open in circuit. If light comes on, replace switch.
Fig. 4: "C" & "K" Series Deluxe Instrument Cluster
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
VOLTMETER
1. Measure voltage across battery terminals. If battery is discharged, find and correct cause of discharged
battery.
2. Recharge battery. With key in "ON" position and battery terminals connected, observe voltmeter with
battery charger in operation. The voltmeter should come up to at least 12 volts. If not, check for high
resistance in voltmeter connections. Clean and tighten connections.
3. If voltmeter reading is still low, apply 12 volts directly to positive terminal of voltmeter. If voltmeter does
not respond accurately, it must be replaced.
1. If "CHECK GAGES" light does not come on with high temperature, go to next step. If "CHECK
GAGES" does not light with low oil pressure, go to step 3). If "CHECK GAGES" light is on all times, go
to step 4).
2. Check for burned out "CHECK GAGES" bulb. Replace bulb if necessary. Check for inoperative
temperature gauge circuit. Replace temperature gauge if necessary. If temperature gauge circuit is okay,
replace defective instrument cluster.
3. Check for burned out "CHECK GAGES" bulb. Replace bulb if necessary. Check for inoperative oil
pressure gauge circuit. Replace oil pressure gauge if necessary. If oil pressure gauge circuit is okay,
replace defective instrument cluster.
4. Check for inoperative temperature and oil pressure gauge circuits. Replace temperature and/or oil
pressure gauge if necessary. If temperature and oil pressure gauge circuits are okay, replace defective
instrument cluster.
SPEEDOMETER/ODOMETER
See VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR & DIGITAL RATIO ADAPTER/CONTROLLER , in this article.
1. Check rear axle ratio and rear tire size. If rear axle ratio and tire size are the same as when vehicle was
manufactured, check vehicle speed sensor circuit. See VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR TEST in this
article.
2. If rear axle ratio and/or tire size are different than when vehicle was manufactured, check digital ratio
adapter programming clip. See INSTRUMENT PANEL CALIBRATION SPECIFICATIONS at end
of this article.
3. Check for brake Code 9 and inoperative speedometer/odometer or ECM Code 24 with correctly operating
speedometer/odometer. If ECM code 24 is set and speedometer/odometer operate, check vehicle speed
sensor buffer output. See, in this article BUFFER OUTPUT DIAGNOSIS .
4. If brake Code 9 is set and speedometer/odometer are inoperative, check vehicle speed sensor buffer
power input. See, in this article, BUFFER POWER DIAGNOSIS . Also check vehicle speed sensor
circuit. See VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR TEST in this article.
1. If speedometer is noisy or sticky, check for kinked, pinched or burnt casings. Check for bent cable tips,
improper or insufficient lubrication of cable, or rough drive gear.
2. If speedometer whines, driven gear stem in transmission could be binding with adapter. If calibration is
incorrect, possible causes include incorrect transmission adapter, incorrect drive gear or sleeve, over or
undersize tires, and faulty speedometer head.
1. Disconnect vehicle speed sensor at transmission and check sensor resistance. If resistance is between 900-
2000 ohms, reconnect harness and go to step 2). If resistance is incorrect, replace vehicle speed sensor
and retest speedometer/odometer operation.
2. Raise and support rear of vehicle. Disconnect instrument cluster connector. Start engine and place
transmission in Drive. Using a digital volt/ohmmeter, check for AC voltage between Yellow wire
(terminal "B13") and Purple wire (terminal "B16").
3. If AC voltage varies with driveshaft RPM, vehicle speed sensor is okay. If no AC voltage is detected,
check wires for open circuits and connectors for tightness. If wiring and connectors are okay, replace
vehicle speed sensor.
If speedometer and odometer are inaccurate, ensure that correct Digital Ratio Adapter Controller (DRAC) is
installed. If speedometer and odometer do not operate properly, perform the following test(s).
DRAC Inoperative
Disconnect DRAC and turn ignition switch to "RUN" position. Check for voltage between Pink/Black wire in
harness and a known good ground. If voltage is less than battery voltage, check for an open or short in
Pink/Black wire.
Check for voltage between Pink/Black wire (Lt. Blue/Black wire on "S" series) in DRAC harness and
Black/White wire (Black wire on "S" series). If voltage is less than battery voltage, check for an open or short in
Black/White (Black wire on "S" series) wire.
1. Raise and support vehicle. Start engine and place transmission in Drive. Check vehicle speed sensor AC
voltage between Purple/White wire and Light Green/Black wire at digital ratio adapter controller. Voltage
should change as engine RPM is decreased and increased.
2. If there is no vehicle speed sensor AC voltage at these wires, check for an open or short in both wires. If
no open or short is found in wires, replace vehicle speed sensor.
No Speedometer Output
Raise and support vehicle. Start engine and place transmission in drive. With connector attached, check for
varying AC voltage between Light Blue/Black wire and Black/White wire (Black wire on "S" series) at digital
ratio adapter controller. If voltage varies with engine RPM, replace DRAC.
Raise and support vehicle. Start engine and place transmission in drive. With connector attached, check for
varying AC voltage between Yellow wire and Black/White wire (Black wire on "S" series) at DRAC. If voltage
varies with engine RPM, replace DRAC.
Check that DRA programming clip is installed in DRA, and that has the proper pins removed. See
INSTRUMENT PANEL CALIBRATION SPECIFICATIONS at end of article.
1. Disconnect instrument cluster connector. Place ignition switch in the "RUN" position. Check for 12 volts
between ground and Brown wire at terminal "A16". If reading is less than 12 volts, check for an open
circuit in Brown wire.
2. If reading is 12 volts, check for 12 volts between ground and Brown/White wire at terminal "B17" If
reading is 12 volts, replace instrument cluster. If reading is less than 12 volts, check for an open circuit in
Brown/White wire. It may be necessary to enter ECM diagnostics. See COMPUTERIZED ENGINE
CONTROLS section.
1. Disconnect instrument cluster connector. Place ignition switch in the "RUN" position. Check for 12 volts
between ground and Pink/Black wire at terminal "A10". If reading is 12 volts, go to next step. If reading
is less than 12 volts, check gauges fuse. Replace fuse if necessary. If fuse is okay, check for short or open
in Pink/Black wire.
2. Check for 12 volts between ground and Brown/White wire at terminal "B14". If reading is 12 volts, go to
next step. If reading is less than 12 volts, check speedometer fuse. Replace fuse if necessary. Check for
short or open in Brown/White wire.
3. Check for 12 volts between Brown/White wire (terminal "B14") and Black/White wire (terminal "B15").
If reading is 12 volts, go to next step. If reading is less than 12 volts, check for open in Black/White wire.
4. Check for 12 volts between Brown/White wire (terminal "B14") and Black wire (terminal "B1"). If
reading is 12 volts, check vehicle speed sensor circuit. See VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR TEST in this
article. If reading is less than 12 volts, check for open in Black wire.
ELECTRONIC INSTRUMENT CLUSTER TEST
1. Check for ignition feed to cluster, ground, and for an inoperative cluster. To do so, disconnect large 17-
pin connector from cluster.
2. Using a digital volt/ohmmeter, measure voltage from pin No. 13 to ground with ignition switch in "RUN"
position. Battery voltage should exist. If okay, go to next step. If meter reads less than battery voltage or
zero, repair Pink/White wire from ignition. See Fig. 2 .
3. Using a digital volt/ohmmeter, measure resistance from pins No. 15 and 16 to ground. If meter reads
anything but 0-0.5 ohms, repair Black wires at pins No. 15 and 16 to ground. If resistance is correct, go to
next step.
4. If ignition feed and ground circuits are okay, replace inoperative instrument cluster.
1. Check for ignition feed to cluster, and for an inoperative cluster. To do so, disconnect large 34-pin
connector from cluster. Using a digital volt/ohmmeter, measure voltage from pin "A15" to pin "B7" with
ignition switch in "RUN" position. See Fig. 2 .
2. Digital volt/ohmmeter should read battery voltage. If meter reads less than battery voltage or zero, repair
Pink/White wire from ignition. If ignition feed circuit is okay, replace inoperative instrument cluster.
Cluster Display Does Not Dim With Lights On (Astro & Safari)
1. Check for open or shorted parking light feed, bad parking light switch, and for an inoperative cluster. To
do so, turn parking lights on and place ignition switch in "RUN" position.
2. Using a digital volt/ohmmeter, measure voltage between ground and pin No. 8 of large 17-pin connector.
If reading is less than battery voltage, repair open or short in Brown wire. If reading is okay, go to next
step.
3. With parking lights on and ignition switch in "RUN" position, use digital volt/ohmmeter to measure
voltage between ground and pin No. 7 of large 17-pin connector. Adjust panel light dimmer switch from
high intensity to low intensity.
4. Voltmeter should read between zero (0) and battery voltage. If this reading is not obtained, repair Gray
wire and/or parking light switch. If above steps are okay, replace inoperative instrument cluster.
1. Check for open or shorted parking light feed, bad parking light switch, and for an inoperative cluster. To
do so, turn parking lights on and place ignition switch in "RUN" position.
2. Using a digital volt/ohmmeter, measure voltage between ground and pin "A6" of large 34-pin connector.
If reading is less than battery voltage, repair open or short in Brown wire. If reading is okay, go to next
step.
3. With parking lights on and ignition switch in "RUN" position, use digital volt/ohmmeter to measure
voltage between ground and pin "A6" of large 17-pin connector. Adjust panel light dimmer switch from
high intensity to low intensity.
4. Voltmeter should read between zero (0) and battery voltage. If this reading is not obtained, repair Brown
wire and/or parking light switch. If above steps are okay, replace inoperative instrument cluster.
Cluster Display Does Not Switch Between English & Metric (Astro & Safari)
1. Check for inoperative cluster controls switch, wiring, or inoperative cluster. To do so, disconnect large
17-pin connector at cluster. Measure cluster control switch resistance between pin No. 2 and ground.
2. Resistance should be zero (0) in one position, and open in the other. If switch does not respond as
indicated, repair Light Blue wire between cluster and switch, the switch, or the Black wire from switch to
ground.
3. If switch and related wiring are okay, replace inoperative instrument cluster.
Speedometer Inoperative Or Inaccurate, Odometer Operates Correctly (Astro, Safari & "S" Series)
One or Both Odometers Do Not Operate Properly, Speedometer Operates Properly (Astro, Safari & "S" Series)
Speedometer & Odometer Do Not Operate (Astro, Safari & "S" Series)
1. Check for vehicle speed sensor signal. To do so, disconnect large 17-pin connector (34-pin connector on
"S" series) from cluster and the Digital Ratio Adapter Controller (DRAC) connector.
2. Measure resistance between wire at pin No. 1 ("A11" on "S" series) of cluster and wire at pin "B" of
DRAC harness. If resistance is above zero (0) ohms, and the vehicle speed sensor circuit is working
properly, replace inoperative instrument cluster.
Cluster Display Does Not Switch Between Total & Trip Odometer (Astro & Safari)
1. Check for an inoperative cluster control switch or wiring. To do so, disconnect large 17-pin connector
from cluster. Measure resistance between pin No. 3 and ground.
2. Resistance should be zero (0) in one position, and open in the other. If switch does not respond as
indicated, repair Light Green wire between cluster and switch, the switch, or the Black wire from switch
to ground.
3. If switch and related wiring are okay, replace inoperative instrument cluster.
1. Check for an inoperative cluster control switch or wiring. To do so, disconnect large 17-pin connector
from cluster. Measure resistance between pin No. 5 and ground.
2. Resistance should be zero (0) in one position, and open in the other. If switch does not respond as
indicated, repair Light Green/Black wire between cluster and switch, the switch, or the Black wire from
switch to ground.
3. If switch and related wiring are okay, replace inoperative instrument cluster.
1. Check for shorts or opens in wiring between fuel tank sending unit and cluster, or for an inoperative fuel
tank sending unit. To do so, disconnect fuel gauge sending unit at fuel tank. Connect one lead of
Instrument Panel Tester (J-33431) to Pink wire and other lead to ground.
2. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position and set tester resistance dials to zero (0) ohms. Fuel gauge should
read empty. Now set resistance dials to 35 ohms. Fuel gauge should have 7-8 segments lit (half full).
Finally, set resistance dials to 90 ohms. Fuel gauge should read full.
3. If fuel gauge responds correctly, check Black wire to ground at fuel gauge sending unit. If Black wire is
okay, replace fuel gauge sending unit. If gauge does not respond as indicated, check Pink wire between
fuel gauge sending unit and cluster. If wire is okay, replace inoperative cluster.
Low Fuel Indicator Does Not Light With Low Fuel Level (Astro, Safari & "S" Series)
1. Check for shorts or opens in wiring between temperature sending unit and cluster, or for an inoperative
temperature sending unit. To do so, disconnect temperature sending unit at engine. Connect one lead of
Instrument Panel Tester (J-33431) to Dark Green wire and other lead to ground.
2. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position and set tester resistance dials to 1400 ohms. Temperature gauge
should read cold. Now set resistance dials to 400 ohms. Temperature gauge should have 7-8 segments lit.
Finally, set resistance dials to zero (0) ohms (55 ohms on "S" series). Temperature gauge should read hot.
3. If temperature gauge responds correctly, replace temperature gauge sending unit. If gauge does not
respond as indicated, check Dark Green wire between temperature gauge sending unit and cluster. If wire
is okay, replace inoperative cluster.
Temperature Indicator Does Not Light With Engine Coolant Overheated (Astro, Safari & "S" Series)
1. Check for shorts or opens in wiring between oil pressure sending unit and cluster, or for an inoperative oil
pressure sending unit. To do so, disconnect oil pressure sending unit at engine. Connect one lead of
Instrument Panel Tester (J-33431) to Tan wire and other lead to ground.
2. Turn ignition switch to "RUN" position and set tester resistance dials to zero (0) ohms. Oil pressure
should read low. Now set resistance dials to 35 ohms. Oil pressure gauge should have 7-8 segments lit.
Finally, set resistance dials to 90 ohms. Oil pressure gauge should read high.
3. If fuel gauge responds correctly, replace oil pressure gauge sending unit. If gauge does not respond as
indicated, check Tan wire between fuel gauge sending unit and cluster. If wire is okay, replace
inoperative cluster.
Oil Pressure Indicator Does Not Light (Astro, Safari & "S" Series)
1. Check for short, open, or high resistance between alternator Brown wire and cluster. To do so, measure
voltage between battery terminals. Now measure voltage between Brown wire and a know good ground.
2. If readings are different, repair Brown wire. If readings are the same, check Black ground wire for high
resistance to ground. If Black wire is okay, replace inoperative instrument cluster.
1. Check for short, open, or high resistance between alternator Brown wire and cluster. Measure voltage
between battery terminals. Now measure voltage between Pink/Black wire (terminal "A15") and a known
good ground.
2. If readings are different, repair Pink/Black wire. If readings are the same, check Black ground wire at
terminals "A9" and "B7" for high resistance to ground. If Black wire is okay, replace inoperative
instrument cluster.
If warning light does not come on during bulb check, check for burned out light bulb. Replace bulb if necessary.
If bulb is okay, check for an open in circuit. To do so, remove lead from differential pressure switch and ground
lead. If warning light does not come on, find open in circuit. If light comes on, replace switch.
Removal & Installation (Astro, "C", "K" & "S" Series & Safari)
Raise and support vehicle. Unplug vehicle speed sensor harness. Remove bolt and vehicle speed sensor.
Remove "O" ring. To install, reverse removal procedure.
"TRIP" SWITCH
Disconnect negative battery cable. Disconnect harness from switch. Remove screws and trip switch. To install,
reverse removal procedure.
Remove instrument cluster. See INSTRUMENT CLUSTER. Remove DRA. To install, reverse removal
procedure.
INSTRUMENT CLUSTER
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove instrument panel trim plate screws. See Fig. 3 . Remove
steering column lower trim plate. Remove instrument cluster trim plate.
2. Remove instrument cluster screws and pull out cluster. Disconnect instrument cluster harness and
speedometer cable. Remove instrument cluster. To install, reverse removal procedure.
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove radio and heater control units. Remove 4 retainer screws. Remove
trim plate (A/T only). Remove instrument cluster. Disconnect 34-pin connector being careful not to touch
circuit board pins. To install, reverse removal procedures.
Removal & Installation ("R" & "V" Series)
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove headlight switch knob and radio control knobs. Remove
steering column cover. Remove 8 screws attaching bezel and remove bezel.
2. Disconnect speedometer cable by depressing spring clip on rear of speedometer head and pulling cable
free. See Fig. 6 . Remove instrument cluster retaining screws and pull out cluster. Disconnect instrument
cluster harness and remove cluster. To install, reverse removal procedure.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Disconnect speedometer cable by depressing spring clip on rear of
speedometer head and pulling cable free. Remove clock reset knob. Remove instrument cluster bezel
retaining screws and bezel.
2. Remove lower instrument cluster retaining screws. Pull top of cluster away from dash panel and lift
cluster out. Disconnect instrument cluster harness and remove cluster. To install, reverse removal
procedure.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Disconnect speedometer cable by depressing spring clip on rear of
speedometer head and pulling cable free. Remove clock adjuster stem.
2. Remove instrument cluster bezel retaining screws and bezel. Disconnect instrument cluster harness and
remove cluster. To install, reverse removal procedure.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove light switch trim plate. Disconnect light switch harness.
Remove A/C-heater control assembly. Disconnect A/C-heater control assembly harness.
2. Remove filler panel screws and panel. See Fig. 7 . Remove instrument cluster housing nuts and cluster.
Pull out instrument cluster and disconnect speedometer cable. Disconnect instrument cluster harness. To
install, reverse removal procedure.
Fig. 7: "S" Series Instrument Cluster
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
GAUGES
Removal & Installation (Astro, Safari, "C", "G" & "K" Series)
Remove instrument cluster. See, in this article, appropriate INSTRUMENT CLUSTER removal procedure.
Remove cluster case retainer screws and retainer (if equipped). Remove gauge mounting screws. Carefully
remove gauge(s). See Fig. 4 . To install, reverse removal procedure.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove headlight switch and radio control knobs. Remove clock
adjuster stem. Remove instrument cluster bezel. Remove steering column cover.
2. Remove instrument cluster lens and transmission shift indicator. If necessary, remove instrument cluster
case front cover or retainer. Remove screws from gauge being serviced. Remove gauge(s). To install,
reverse removal procedure.
Remove instrument cluster. Remove instrument cluster lens and lens retainer. Remove printed circuit board.
Remove nuts from gauge being serviced. Remove gauge(s). See Fig. 5 . To install, reverse removal procedure.
Removal & Installation ("P" Series)
Remove instrument cluster. Remove light socket assemblies. Remove printed circuit board. See PRINTED
CIRCUIT in this article. Remove instrument cluster case retaining screws. Remove instrument cluster case
from bezel. Remove screws from gauge being serviced. Remove gauge(s). To install, reverse removal
procedure.
SPEEDOMETER
Remove instrument cluster. Remove speedometer retaining screws and speedometer. See Fig. 3 . To install,
reverse removal procedure.
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove instrument cluster. See INSTRUMENT CLUSTER in this article.
Remove retainer screws and retainer. Remove speedometer mounting screws. Carefully remove speedometer
without touching circuitry. To install, reverse removal procedure.
Remove instrument cluster. Remove speedometer retaining screws. Remove 2 Torx head screws and rubber
grommets securing speedometer assembly to cluster cover. Disconnect speedometer cable and remove
speedometer. To install, reverse removal procedure.
1. Remove instrument cluster. Remove light socket assemblies. Remove printed circuit retaining nuts.
Remove printed circuit. Remove instrument cluster case retaining screws.
2. Remove instrument cluster case from bezel. Remove speedometer retaining screws. Disconnect
speedometer cable and remove speedometer. To install, reverse removal procedure.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove headlight switch assembly. Remove radio control knobs.
Remove clock adjuster stem. Remove instrument cluster bezel.
2. Remove steering column. Remove instrument cluster lens. Remove transmission shift indicator. Remove
instrument gauge retainer. Depress spring clip on speedometer cable and release cable from speedometer.
To install, reverse removal procedure.
PRINTED CIRCUIT
Remove instrument cluster. Remove instrument cluster light socket assemblies. Remove printed circuit board
retaining screws. On "G" and "P" series, remove fuel gauge, temperature gauge, and ammeter terminal nuts. On
all models, remove printed circuit board. To install, reverse removal procedure. Ensure gauge and ammeter
terminal nuts are securely tightened.
MODEL IDENTIFICATION
VIN LOCATION
The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is located on the left side of the dash panel at the base of the
windshield. The VIN chart explains the code characters.
Numbers preceding the explanations in the legend below refer to the sequence of characters as listed on VIN
identification label. See VIN example below.
Fig. 1: VIN Definition
Label is located inside glove box door and has the vehicle's VIN, wheelbase, paint information, and a list of all
production options and special equipment.
JACKING & HOISTING
HOISTING
FRAME CONTACT HOIST
Vehicle may be raised on single or twin-post swiveling arm or ramp-type drive hoists as long as wide hoist
adapters are used. If using single post hoist, ensure lifting arms, pads or ramps are positioned at proper lifting
points and adequate underbody clearance is maintained. See Fig. 1-Fig. 6 .
If vehicle is to be raised on a twin-post hoist, use caution not to damage suspension, rear axle cover and/or
steering linkage components.
JACKING
To raise front end of vehicle, position jack under front end jacking point. To raise rear of vehicle, position jack
under rear end jacking point. See Fig. 1-Fig. 6 .
DESCRIPTION
The automatic locking hub automatically engages to lock and disengages to unlock the front axle shaft to (or
from) the front hub. Shifting the transfer case into 4WD immediately engages automatic locking hubs.
Hubs remain engaged even during coasting or downhill operation. Automatic locking hubs disengage when the
transfer case is shifted into 2WD, and when vehicle is slowly moved rearward several feet.
Removal
1. Remove 5 cap screws and cover to outer clutch housing. Remove bearing race spring assembly. Remove
sealing ring and seal bridge retainer. Remove bearing components.
2. Squeeze tangs of wire retaining ring together with needle nose pliers. Pull remaining components of
automatic hub from wheel. See Fig. 1 .
Installation
1. Ensure lock ring is in position between wheel bearing adjusting nut and adjusting nut. Using Bearing Nut
Wrench (J-6893-D), tighten wheel bearing adjusting nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 N.m) to seat bearings.
2. Back off nut and tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (47 N.m) while rotating hub. Finally, back off nut a maximum of
3/8 turn. Assemble lock ring (with tab in keyway) over axle shaft, against bearing adjustment nut.
3. Adjustment nut pin must pass through one of the washer holes. Tighten outer adjusting nut to 183 ft. lbs.
(248 N.m). Align outer clutch housing splines with splines of wheel hub.
4. Loosen cover screws 3 or 4 turns, and push in on cover to allow retaining ring to expand into rotor hub
groove. Tighten cover cap screws to 40-50 INCH lbs. (4.5-5.6 N.m).
Fig. 1: Exploded View of General Motors Automatic Locking Hubs
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Rebuilt Hub
1. Hold 2 tangs of retaining ring clamped while installing components in hub. Align drag sleeve cut-outs
with lock ring tabs while assembling splines of outer clutch housing into hub splines.
2. Assemble seal bridge retainer (K10/20 models) or assembly aid retainer (K30 models) in outer clutch
housing cut-out. On K10/20 models, assemble sealing ring over outer clutch housing.
3. Assemble bearing and retainer into hub sleeve. Assemble bearing race spring to cover.
OVERHAUL
DISASSEMBLY
1. Remove snap ring from hub sleeve groove. Turn clutch gear until it engages with outer clutch housing.
Lift and cock drag sleeve to unlock brake band tangs from inner cage window. Remove drag sleeve and
the brake assembly.
NOTE: Brake band should never be removed from drag sleeve. Brake band spring
tension can be changed if coils are overexpanded.
2. Remove snap ring from outer clutch housing groove. Using a small screwdriver, while removing inner
cage, pry plastic outer cage from inner cage. Pry plastic outer cage tabs from groove in outer clutch
housing. Remove outer cage.
3. Remove clutch sleeve and attached components from outer clutch housing. Compress and hold return
spring with fabricated clamps. See Fig. 2 . After installing clamps, put assembly in vise so vise holds both
ends of clutch sleeve.
4. Remove retaining ring. Remove clamps holding return spring. Slowly open vise. Remove retainer seat,
spring and spring support washers from hub sleeve.
5. Remove "C" retaining ring from clutch sleeve by positioning assembly so "C" ring ends align with cam
follower legs. Remove "C" ring through follower legs.
6. Remove conical spring from between cam follower and clutch gear. Separate cam follower from clutch
gear.
REASSEMBLY
1. Snap cam follower tangs over clutch gear flats. Compress conical spring and slide it into position with
large end of spring against clutch gear.
2. Position clutch gear assembly over hub sleeve splines. Cam follower teeth should be on hub sleeve end
that has no splines. Clutch gear and spring should slide freely over hub sleeve splines.
3. Assemble "C" retainer ring in hub sleeve groove. Assemble spring retainer over each end of return spring.
Position one end of return spring with retainer against shoulder of clutch gear.
4. Place spring support washer against retainer on return spring end. Compress return spring and assemble
retainer ring in hub sleeve groove. Retain return spring using 2 fabricated clamps, while retainer ring is
being assembled. See Fig. 2 .
5. Place assembled components in outer housing. Position cam follower so 2 legs face outward. Install 3
cover screws into outer clutch housing for support and to permit clutch hub to drop down.
6. Carefully work plastic outer cage into outer clutch housing with ramps facing cam follower. External tabs
of plastic cage should be in wide groove of outer clutch housing.
7. Assemble steel inner cage into outer cage, aligning outer cage tab with inner cage window. Assemble
retaining ring into outer clutch housing, above outer cage.
NOTE: Service brake band and drag sleeve as an assembly. If original lubricant
has been removed or contaminated, use (1052750) lubricant.
8. Assemble one of 2 tangs of brake band on each side of outer cage lug, located in window of steel inner
cage. Remove 3 cover screws and set end of hub sleeve on a support. Assemble washer and snap ring
above drag sleeve. To complete installation, install rebuilt hub as previously described in this article.
LOCKING HUBS - MANUAL
DESCRIPTION
Locking hubs provide a means of engagement of front wheels on vehicles with front drive axle. When hub is
engaged, full power is transmitted to both front wheels. When hubs are disengaged, front wheels are free to
turn, but axle shafts and differential will remain idle.
Engagement is accomplished through action of gears within hub. With hub in engaged position, clutch body and
hub body of hub assembly act as one piece to connect axle shaft to wheel hub.
Removal
1. Remove bolts and tabbed lock washers (if equipped), attaching hub body to axle hub. Retain bolts and
washers. Remove large retaining ring from axle hub and small retaining ring from axle shaft. Remove hub
clutch and bearing assembly.
2. Clean hub components in solvent. Dry components, using compressed air or clean shop towel, or air dry.
Be sure old lubricant, dirt, water, or other foreign materials are flushed out.
NOTE: DO NOT turn hub control dial until hub has been installed. The hub clutch nut
and cup can be damaged severely, if dial is rotated while hub is off vehicle.
Fig. 1: Exploded View Of Warn Manual Locking Hub Assembly
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Installation
1. Lubricate hub components with all-purpose chassis lubricant. Apply light coat of lubricant only. DO
NOT pack hub with lubricant.
2. Install hub clutch assembly and small retaining ring on axle shaft. Install large retaining ring in axle hub.
Install new "O" ring if hub body is being replaced.
3. Position hub body in clutch. Align bolt holes in axle and hub body. Install bolts and tabbed lock washers
(if equipped). Tighten bolts to 30 INCH lbs. (3.4 N.m).
4. Raise vehicle front end. Turn hub control dials to position "2" and rotate wheels. Wheels should rotate
freely. If wheels drag, check hub installation. Also, be sure the control dials are fully engaged in 4WD
position.
NOTE: Front drive hubs are serviced as either a complete assembly or subassembly,
such as hub body or clutch assembly only. DO NOT attempt to disassemble
these units. If entire hub or subassembly is bad, replace as a unit only.
MAINTENANCE INFORMATION
MODEL IDENTIFICATION
VIN LOCATION
The Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is located on the left side of the dash panel at the base of the
windshield. The VIN chart explains the code characters.
Label is located inside glove box door and has the vehicle's VIN, wheelbase, paint information, and a list of all
production options and special equipment.
Numbers preceding the explanations in the legend below refer to the sequence of characters as listed on VIN
identification label. See VIN example below.
Fig. 1: VIN Code ID Explanation
Service is recommended at mileage intervals based on vehicle operation, emission classification, and Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR, VIN Position 4). Emission classification is identified by engine VIN code
(except diesel-powered vehicles). Manufacturer's Schedules identify items to be serviced based on type of
operation. Service schedules are based on the following primary operating conditions:
Severe Service
Normal Service
NOTE: For more information regarding jacking or hoisting the vehicle, refer to the
JACKING & HOISTING article in the WHEEL ALIGNMENT section.
NOTE: For 1990 and newer vehicles, labor times are provided, where available, within
appropriate SERVICE INTERVAL table in SCHEDULED SERVICES article.
NOTE: DO NOT use chains with P235/75R15 size tires. Vehicle damage may result.
WHEEL SIZE
Replacement wheels should match originals in load limit, diameter, width, offset, and mounting configuration.
The wrong wheel can cause difficulty with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer/odometer calibration,
stopping ability, headlight aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to body
and chassis.
WHEEL TIGHTENING
Tighten lug nuts on steel wheels to 80 ft. lbs. (108 N.m). Tighten lug nuts on aluminum wheels to 90 ft. lbs.
(122 N.m). 1993 models should be tightened to 95-100 ft. lbs. (130-140 N.m).
BATTERY SPECIFICATIONS
CAUTION: When battery is disconnected, vehicles equipped with computers may lose
memory data. When battery power is restored, driveability problems may
exist on some vehicles. These vehicles may require a relearn procedure.
See COMPUTER RELEARN PROCEDURES article in the GENERAL
INFORMATION section.
The anti-lock brake system contains electronic equipment that can be susceptible to interference caused by
improperly installed or high output radio transmitting equipment. Since this interference could cause the
possible loss of the anti-lock braking capability, such equipment should be installed by qualified professionals.
On models equipped with anti-lock brake systems, ALWAYS observe the following cautions:
z DO NOT attempt to bleed hydraulic system without first referring to the appropriate ANTI-LOCK
BRAKE SYSTEM article in the BRAKES Section.
z DO NOT mix tire sizes. As long as tires remain close to the original diameter, increasing the width is
acceptable. Rolling diameter must be identical for all 4 tires. Some manufacturers recommend tires of the
same brand, style and type. Failure to follow this precaution may cause inaccurate wheel speed readings.
z Use ONLY recommended brake fluids. DO NOT use silicone brake fluids in an ABS-equipped vehicle.
CAUTION: Before replacing a blown fuse, remove ignition key, turn off all lights and
accessories to avoid damaging the electrical system. Be sure to use fuse
with the correct indicated amperage rating. The use of an incorrect
amperage rating fuse may result in a dangerous electrical system
overload.
BATTERY WARNING
CAUTION: Indicator will cause a squealing or scraping noise, warning that brake
pads need replacement.
WARNING: Relieve fuel system pressure prior to servicing any fuel system
component.
HALOGEN BULBS
WARNING: Halogen bulbs contain pressurized gas which may explode if overheated.
DO NOT touch glass portion of bulb with bare hands. Eye protection
should be worn when handling or working around halogen bulbs.
METHANOL GASOLINE
CAUTION: Fuel that is more than 5% methanol should not be used in this vehicle. It
can corrode metal parts in the fuel system, and damage plastic and rubber
parts. Even at 5% methanol or less, solvents and corrosion preventers
must be used with this fuel to avoid these problems.
RADIATOR CAP
CAUTION: Always disconnect the fan motor when working near the radiator fan. The
fan is temperature controlled and could start at any time even when the
ignition key is in the OFF position. DO NOT loosen or remove radiator cap
when cooling system is hot.
RADIATOR FAN
NOTE: Allow engine to cool before removing spark plugs from aluminum cylinder
heads.
WARRANTY INFORMATION
CAUTION: Due to the different warranties offered in various regions and the variety of
after-market extended warranties available, please refer to the warranty
package that came with the vehicle to verify all warranty options.
Entire vehicle (except battery) is covered for 3 years or 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first. Covered by this
warranty are any repairs to vehicle components which have proven defective in material and workmanship
under normal use (tires excluded). Warranty repairs (parts and labor) will be made by the Dealer at no charge
using new or remanufactured parts. This warranty is subject to a 100 deductible for each repair visit after the
first year or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
NOTE: 1992-93 Models are covered for 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever occurs first,
with no deductible.
BATTERY COVERAGE
Covers replacement cost of battery for 3 years or 50,000 miles (36,000 miles on 1992 models), whichever
occurs first. A prorated charge applies after first 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
CORROSION COVERAGE
Covers any body sheet metal panel that is perforated due to corrosion. Coverage is for 6 years or 100,000 miles,
whichever occurs first.
Defect Warranty ensures vehicle meets applicable EPA regulations and that emission control system is free
from defects in materials and workmanship. Coverage is for a period of 5 years or 50,000 miles, whichever
occurs first.
Performance Warranty covers all costs of repairing or adjusting any components or parts as needed in order for
the vehicle to pass a federally-required state or local emissions test. Other emission control parts related to these
components are covered by the Performance Warranty, where applicable. If another part fails due to the failure
of one of these components, both parts are covered. See customer's copy of warranty information for specific
items covered.
EMISSION "PERFORMANCE" WARRANTY (CALIFORNIA)
If vehicle fails a Smog Check inspection, all necessary repairs and adjustments will be made by manufacturer to
ensure vehicle passes inspection. Coverage is for 3 years or 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
If any emission-related part on the vehicle is defective, the part will be repaired or replaced by manufacturer.
Coverage is for 3 years or 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
Some emission-related parts are covered for 7 years or 70,000 miles, whichever occurs first, and will be
repaired or replaced by manufacturer if found to be defective in material or workmanship. See customer's copy
of warranty information for specific items covered.
The fuse block is located under the instrument panel to the left of the steering column.
Fig. 5: Fuse Panel Identification (1983-84)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
z 1 - Inst-Lps 5 Amp Instrument Panel Lights, Headlight Warning Buzzer, Rear Defogger Switch Light,
Ashtray Light, 4WD Indicator Light, Rear Wiper Switch Light, Foglight Switch Light
z 2 - Pwr-Accy 30 Amp (Circuit Breaker) Power Door Locks & Rear Defogger, Console Accy. Receptacles
Bravada), CD Player (If Equipped), Power Seat (If Equipped), Elec. Shift Transfer Case (If Equipped)
z 3 - Horn-Dim 20 Amp Horn, Clock & Lighter, Dome & Glove Box Lights, Courtesy & Vanity Mirror
Lights, Compass (Bravada), Liftgate Release Solenoid (If Equipped), Outside Rearview Mirror
z 4 - Ign-Gau 20 Amp (1985-87) Ignition Ign-Gau 20 Amp (1988) Ignition, Indicator Lights & Gauges,
Rear Defogger Relay & Timer, A/T Converter Clutch & Cruise Control, RWAL Brake Signal (If
Equipped), Seat Belt Timer (If Equipped), A/C Compressor Timer (If Equipped), 4WD Indicator Light (If
Equipped)
z 5 - Choke 20 Amp (1985) Not Used (1986-88) Choke (1985)
z 6 - Stop-Haz 15 Amp Stoplights & Hazard Warning Lights
z 7 - T/L-Ctsy 20 Amp Light Switch, Taillights & Parking Lights, Courtesy Lights, Electronic Cluster (If
Equipped)
z 8 - Turn-B/U 15 Amp Turn Signal & Back-Up Lights
z 9 - Htr-A/C 25 Amp Heating & A/C
z 10 - Radio 15 Amp Radio, Tachometer, Rearview Mirror Map Lights, Rear Wiper & Washer
z 11 - ECM B 10 Amp Electronic Control Module, Fuel Pump
z 12 - ECM I 10 Amp Electronic Control Module
z 13 - Pwr Wdo 30 Amp (Circuit Breaker) Power Tailgate Window, Power Windows
z 14 - Wiper 25 Amp Windshield Wipers & Washers
z 15 - Crank 3 Amp Electronic Control Module
z 16 - Not Used
z 17 - Not Used
z Trailer 30 Amp
z Trailer Wiring Harness (If Equipped with Tow Package)
z Trailer 30 Amp Trailer Wiring Harness (If Equipped with Tow Package)
z CD Player (1992) 10 Amp CD Player (If Equipped)
z AUX PWR OUTLET 10 Amp Auxiliary Power (If Equipped)
REMINDER INDICATOR RESET PROCEDURES
NOTE: To determine the appropriate reset procedure, refer to CHANGE TRANS FLUID
MESSAGE RESET INDEX. Only the vehicles listed in this index have a CHANGE
TRANS FLUID MESSAGE reset.
This message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC) when transaxle fluid change is due. Change
fluid in both the oil pan and side cover.
Press CLR button located to the right of the DIC display to acknowledge the CHANGE TRANS FLUID
message. This will clear the message from the display and reset it. To reset transmission fluid life indicator,
press up or down arrow on INFO button located to the right of the DIC display to access the DIC menu. Once
percentage TRANS FLUID LIFE menu item is highlighted, press and hold CLR button. Percentage will return
to 100, and transmission fluid life indicator will be reset. Repeat if percentage does not return to 100.
Press multifunction button located to the right of the DIC display, next to the OK prompt to acknowledge the
CHANGE TRANS FLUID message. This will clear the message form the display and reset it. To reset
transmission fluid life indicator, turn system on by pressing PWR/VOL knob once. PWR/VOL knob is located
to the lower left of the DIC display. Press INFO button located to the left of the DIC display to access the
VEHICLE INFO menu. Turn TUNE/SEL knob located to the lower right of the DIC display until TRANS
FLUID LIFE is highlighted. Press knob once to select it. Once percentage TRANS FLUID LIFE is displayed,
press multifunction button next to the RESET prompt in the upper right corner of the display. Percentage will
return to 100, and transmission fluid life indicator will be reset. Repeat if percentage does not return to 100.
1. The Driver Information Center (DIC) displays estimated percentage of the remaining useful life of
transaxle fluid. When remaining fluid life is 0 percent, the display will show CHANGE TRNS FLUID
NOW. After changing transaxle fluid, reset oil life display.
2. To reset the display, turn ignition on with engine off. Press ENG button to select the TRNS FLUID LIFE
percentage display. Then, press and hold in RESET for at least 5 seconds.
3. The word RESET will appear. Then, TRNS FLUID 100 will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine the appropriate reset procedure, refer to CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
RESET INDEX. Only vehicles listed in this index have a check engine light reset.
Federal Emissions
1. CHECK ENGINE light functions as a service reminder indicator and emission system service. CHECK
ENGINE light will come on each 50,000 miles (PCV and EGR), each 80,000 miles (oxygen sensor) and
each 100,000 miles (charcoal canister) to indicate needed emission system service.
2. After servicing and/or replacing components, reset CHECK ENGINE light by sliding cancel switch to its
opposite position. See CHECK ENGINE LIGHT RESET SWITCH LOCATION (GEO TRACKER)
for switch location.
Fig. 1: Check Engine Light Reset Switch Location (1992-94 Geo Tracker - Federal Emissions)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
California Emissions
CHECK ENGINE light indicates when it is necessary to have emission system serviced, regardless of mileage.
CHECK ENGINE light comes on briefly when starting as a bulb check. If light does not come on or stays on
constantly, repair as necessary.
NOTE: To determine the appropriate reset procedure, refer to Fuel Filter Life Reset
Index. Only vehicles listed in this index have a fuel filter life reset.
NOTE: ALWAYS reset the FUEL FILTER LIFE system (if equipped) after a fuel filter
change.
"FUEL FILTER LIFE" message will appear when a reset is performed either by using the steering wheel
controls or performing manual reset procedure.
1. On vehicles with steering wheel controls, press and hold the select button for 5 seconds while the FUEL
FILTER LIFE message is displayed. This message will appear on the Driver Information Center (DIC)
for 10 seconds.
2. On vehicles without steering wheel controls, go to next step.
3. Without pressing the pedals, turn the ignition key to the ON position, engine off. Wait 5 seconds.
4. Completely depress the brake and accelerator pedals simultaneously and hold for 10 seconds. The system
is now reset. Turn ignition key OFF.
5. On all vehicles, the next time engine is started, the message will no longer be displayed.
NOTE: Most 1981-88 General Motors vehicles do not use a Service Reminder Indicator
(SRI).
NOTE: To determine the appropriate reset procedure, refer to Oil Change Reminders
Reset Index. Only vehicles listed in this index have an oil change reminder
reset.
1. The CHANGE OIL (or CHANGE ENGINE OIL) message is displayed when its time to change engine
oil, usually between 3000 and 7500 miles since last oil change.
2. To reset the oil life monitor, turn the ignition switch to RUN position, with engine off. Press the
TRIP/OIL RESET button on the instrument panel for 12 seconds. The OIL CHANGE light will start to
flash to confirm that system is reset (on some models a chime will also sound). Reset is complete when
OIL CHANGE light goes out.
Engine oil life monitor calculates engine oil temperature and RPM. It indicates when the engine oil is nearly
worn out. A CHANGE OIL light on the instrument cluster is illuminated when it is time to change the engine
oil. To reset CHANGE OIL light:
1. Remove IP fuse block cover (cover can be seen when driver's door is open).
2. Turn ignition ON, engine OFF.
3. Press OIL RESET button and hold for 5 seconds.
4. If Oil Life light does not reset, repeat procedure with ignition OFF.
OIL CHANGE REMINDER RESET - PROCEDURE 3
Engine oil life monitor calculates engine oil temperature and RPM. It indicates when the engine oil is nearly
worn out. A CHANGE OIL light on the instrument cluster is illuminated when it is time to change the engine
oil.
1. To reset oil life monitor and turn off CHANGE OIL light, turn ignition switch to ON position with engine
off.
2. Depress accelerator pedal to wide open throttle 3 times within 5 seconds. This throttle signal will inform
the PCM to reset the oil life monitor and turn off the light. If light does not turn off, turn ignition off and
repeat procedure.
When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary.
A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will come on. Change the engine oil as soon as possible within the
next 600 miles (1,000 km). It is possible that, if driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not
indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at
least once a year and at this time the system must be reset.
Reset Procedure
Engine oil life monitor calculates engine oil temperature and RPM. It indicates when the oil is nearly worn out.
A CHANGE OIL light on left side of instrument cluster is illuminated when it is time to change oil. To reset oil
life monitor:
1. Turn ignition on.
2. Depress ENG MET button on trip monitor and release.
3. Within 5 seconds, depress and release ENG MET button again.
4. Within 5 seconds, depress and hold the ENG MET or GAUGES button again. The CHANGE OIL light
should flash.
5. Depress and hold the RANGE or GAUGES button until the CHANGE OIL light stops flashing and goes
out. When the light goes out, the engine oil life monitor is reset. This should take about 10 seconds.
NOTE: If the light does not reset, turn ignition off and repeat the procedure.
The Driver Information Center (DIC) will display a CHANGE OIL message when an oil change is due. The
instrument cluster may also have a CHANGE OIL light. To reset the oil life monitor:
Reset Procedure
NOTE: On models without DIC buttons, use the TRIP/ODOMETER reset stem.
3. Press and hold SET/RESET button (on some models, the check-symbol button) on DIC for at least 5
seconds. The message will change to indicate that the Oil Life has been reset. On some models, 3 chimes
will also sound.
4. Turn ignition off.
5. Turn the key to OFF. If the light or message comes back on when you start your vehicle, the oil life
system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
NOTE: On some models, if oil life system does not reset, try turning ignition OFF after
displaying oil life message. Then press and hold reset button.
When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it indicates that an oil change is necessary. A
CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message in the DIC comes on. Reset the system whenever the engine oil is
changed so that the system can calculate the next engine oil change. To reset the system:
1. Press the up or down arrow to scroll the DIC to show OIL LIFE.
2. Once the XXX% ENGINE OIL LIFE menu item is highlighted, press and hold the RESET button until
the percentage shows 100%
The CHANGE ENGINE OIL message is displayed when its time to change engine oil, usually between 3000
and 7500 miles since last oil change. The oil change interval is not based on mileage, but on engine revolutions
and engine operating temperature.
1. There are 2 ways to reset the engine oil life monitor. To reset the engine oil life monitor using the
accelerator pedal, go to step 4. To reset the engine oil life monitor using the radio, turn the radio off. Turn
ignition to ACC or ON, with the engine off. Press and hold the DISP (on some models, TUNE DISP)
button (or knob) on the radio for at least 5 seconds until SETTINGS is displayed.
2. Press the SEEK (on some models, SEEK PTYPE or SEEK PSCAN) up or down arrow to scroll through
the main menu. Scroll until OIL LIFE appears on the display. Press the PREV or NEXT button to enter
the sub-menu. RESET will be displayed.
3. Press the DISP/TUNE DISP button to reset. A chime will sound to verify the new setting and DONE will
be displayed for one second. Once the message indicator has been reset, scroll through the menu until
EXIT appears on the display. Press the DISP/TUNE DISP button to exit the program. A chime will sound
to verify the exit.
4. To reset the engine oil life monitor using the accelerator pedal, turn ignition on with engine off. Fully
depress and release the accelerator pedal slowly 3 times within 5 seconds. If CHANGE ENGINE OIL
light flashes, oil life monitor is reset. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL light comes back on and stays on, oil
life monitor has not reset. Repeat reset procedure.
When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary.
A CHANGE message will come on. Change the engine oil as soon as possible within the next 600 miles (1000
km). It is possible that, if driving under the best conditions, the oil life may not indicate that an oil change is
necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year and at this
time the system must be reset.
1. Press and hold the TRIP button on the steering wheel while turning on the ignition. Do not start the
engine.
2. The instrument panel cluster will prompt to clear the service code.
3. Release the button.
4. Press and hold ENTER Switch on the left side of the steering wheel for approximately one second.
5. Turn off the ignition.
If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when you start the vehicle, the engine oil life
system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
Reset Procedure
If vehicle is equipped with a Driver Information Center (DIC), reset oil life monitor by pressing the Driver
Information Center SELECT button for 5 seconds while ENGINE OIL LIFE is displayed.
Alternate Method
To reset the oil life monitor, turn ignition switch to ON or RUN position with engine off. Depress accelerator
pedal slowly to wide open throttle 3 times within 5 seconds. If CHANGE ENG OIL light flashes for 5 seconds,
oil life monitor is reset. If the CHANGE ENG OIL light does not flash, oil life monitor has not reset. Repeat
this step.
1. CHANGE OIL SOON light will come on when engine oil has broken down enough to require changing.
After changing oil, reset oil life display.
2. To reset light, turn ignition on. Open glove box to access oil reset button. Press and hold oil reset button
in glove box for at least 5 seconds, but not longer than 60 seconds. The CHANGE OIL SOON light will
flash 4 times to indicate light has been reset.
GM Oil Life System calculates when to change your engine oil and filter based on vehicle use. Anytime oil is
changed, reset the system so it can calculate when the next oil change is required. If a situation occurs where
you change your oil prior to a Change Oil Soon message being turned on, reset the system. After changing the
engine oil, reset the system.
1. To display this light, press the GAGE INFO or GAGES button on the Driver Information Center (DIC).
When oil life index is less than 10 percent, display will show OIL LIFE INDEX CHANGE OIL. After
changing oil, reset system.
2. To reset light, display OIL LIFE INDEX. Hold RESET button for more than 5 seconds. After reset, oil
life will change to 100 percent.
1. CHANGE OIL SOON light will come on when engine oil has broken down enough to require changing.
After changing oil, reset oil life display.
2. To reset light, locate reset button hole under the dash near passenger door. Use a pencil or similar object
to push and hold button (inside hole) for 5 seconds. The CHANGE OIL SOON light will flash 4 times to
indicate light has been reset.
1. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN, with the engine off. The vehicle must be in P (Park) to access this display.
Press the trip odometer reset stem until OIL LIFE REMAINING displays.
2. Press and hold the trip odometer reset stem until OIL LIFE REMAINING shows "100%." Three chimes
sound and the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message goes off.
3. Turn the key to LOCK/OFF. If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message comes back on when the
vehicle is started, the engine oil life system has not been reset. Repeat the procedure.
Reset Procedure
When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary.
A CHANGE ENGINE OIL message or light will come on. Change the engine oil as soon as possible within the
next 600 miles (1 000 km). It is possible that, if driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not
indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at
least once a year and at this time the system must be reset.
NOTE: Be careful not to reset the oil life display accidentally at any time other than
after the oil is changed. It cannot be reset accurately until the next oil change.
The system is reset when the CHANGE OIL message is off and the REMAINING OIL LIFE 100% message is
displayed.
NOTE: If the CHANGE OIL message comes back on or Code 82 DIC message comes on
when the vehicle is started, the engine oil life system has not been reset.
Repeat the procedure.
Fig. 2: Identifying DIC Controls (Turn Signal Lever)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Turn on ignition.
2. Connect scan tool.
3. Select Module Diagnosis.
4. Select Engine Control Module.
5. Select Configuration/Reset function.
6. Select Engine Oil System Reset.
7. Push Enter button to run function.
8. Confirm Executed successfully.
9. Turn ignition of and confirm.
10. Turn ignition on and confirm.
1. The Driver Information Center (DIC) will display remaining oil life as a percentage estimate of the useful
life of oil.
2. When remaining oil life is 10 percent or less, the system will display CHANGE OIL SOON. When oil
life expires, display will show CHANGE ENGINE OIL. After changing oil, reset oil life display.
3. To reset oil life display, press INFORMATION (or INFORMATION SKIP) button to display OIL LIFE
LEFT. Press and hold RESET (or RESET NO) button until 100 OIL LIFE LEFT (0.0 OIL LIFE LEFT on
some early models) is displayed.
OIL CHANGE REMINDER RESET - PROCEDURE 20
Press up or down arrow on the INFO button located to right of Driver Information Center (DIC) display to
access DIC menu. Once 100 percent ENGINE OIL LIFE menu item is highlighted, press and hold the CLR
button. Percentage will return to 100 and oil life indicator will be reset. Repeat procedure if the percentage does
not return to 100.
Turn the system on by pressing PWR/VOL knob once. PWR/VOL knob is located to lower left of DIC display.
Press INFO button located to left of the display to access Vehicle Information menu. Turn TUNE/SEL knob
located to lower right of the display until ENGINE OIL LIFE is highlighted. Press TUNE/SEL knob once to
select it. When 100 percent Engine Oil Life is displayed, press multifunction button next to reset prompt in
upper right corner of the display. Percentage will return to 100 and the oil life indicator will be reset. Repeat
procedure if the percentage does not return to 100.
1. Use the SELECT knob to select OIL LIFE on the DIC menu.
2. Press SELECT to start the OIL LIFE reset procedure.
3. The DIC menu will display "Are you sure that you want to reset?" Use SELECT to choose YES to reset
oil life or NO to exit and return to the previous menu.
4. If YES is selected, the DIC menu will display RESET OIL LIFE for a short time and then 100% OIL
LIFE will be display when OIL LIFE is successfully reset.
1. Press the CLR button located to the right of the driver information center (DIC) display to acknowledge
the Change Engine Oil message. This will clear the message from the display and reset it.
2. Press the up or down arrow on the INFO button located to the right of the Driver Information Center
(DIC) display to access the DIC menu.
3. Once 100% ENGINE OIL LIFE menu item is highlighted, press and hold the CLR button. The
percentage will return to 100 and the oil life indicator will be reset. Repeat the steps if the percentage
does not return to 100.
4. Turn OFF the key. If the Change Engine Oil message comes back on when you start the vehicle, the
engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
Without DIC
1. Press the multifunction button, next to the OK prompt in the upper right of the display to acknowledge
the Change Engine Oil message. This will clear the message from the display and reset it.
2. Turn the system on by pressing the PWR/VOL knob once. The PWR/VOL knob is located to the lower
left of the driver information center (DIC) display.
3. Press the INFO button located to the left of the display to access the Vehicle Information menu.
4. Turn the TUNE/SEL knob located to the lower right of the display until Engine Oil Life is highlighted.
Press the knob once to select it.
5. Once the 100% Engine Oil Life is displayed, press the multifunction button next to the Reset prompt in
the upper right corner of the display. The percentage will return to 100 and the oil life indicator will be
reset. Repeat the steps if the percentage does not return to 100.
6. Turn OFF the key. If the Change Engine Oil message comes back on when you start the vehicle, the
engine oil life system has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
1. An OIL LIFE INDEX is one of the displays on Driver Information Center (DIC). It will display
remaining oil life as a percentage estimate of the useful life of oil.
2. It will show 100 percent when the system is reset. When the oil life is 0 percent, the display will show
CHANGE ENGINE OIL. After changing oil, reset oil life display.
3. To reset service reminder on 1989 models, press RANGE button until OIL LIFE INDEX appears on
display. Depress and hold in AVG ECON and RANGE buttons for more than 5 seconds or until 100 is
displayed. This will reset remaining oil life to 100 percent.
4. On 1990-93 models, press RANGE button until OIL LIFE INDEX appears on DIC display. Depress and
hold in AVG SPEED and RANGE buttons for more than 5 seconds or until 100 is displayed. This will
reset remaining oil life to 100 percent.
1. An OIL LIFE INDEX is one of 4 displays on Driver Information Center (DIC). It will display remaining
oil life as a percentage estimate of the useful life of oil.
2. Display will show 100 percent when the system is reset. When remaining oil life is 10 percent or less, the
system will display CHANGE OIL SOON. When the oil life expires, the display will show CHANGE
ENGINE OIL. After changing oil, reset oil life display.
3. To reset oil life display, press ENG DATA button until OIL LIFE INDEX appears on DIC display.
Depress and hold in ENG DATA and RANGE buttons until 100 is displayed. This will reset remaining
oil life to 100 percent.
1. An OIL LIFE INDEX is one of the displays on Driver Information Center (DIC). It will display
remaining oil life as a estimated percentage of the useful life of oil.
2. It will show 100 percent when the system is reset. When the oil life is 0 percent, the display will show
CHANGE ENGINE OIL. After performing necessary services, reset service reminder.
3. To reset service reminder, turn ignition to on position. Do not start engine. Depress and hold RANGE and
FUEL USED buttons until OIL LIFE INDEX appears on DIC display. Depress and hold RANGE and
RESET buttons for 5-60 seconds.
4. When CHANGE OIL SOON light flashes 4 times, remaining oil life index is reset to 100 percent. If
CHANGE OIL SOON comes on and stays on for 5 seconds, display did not reset. Repeat step 3.
1. Oil change reminder display on the Driver Information Center (DIC) is similar to 1990-91 models, but
reset procedures are different. After changing oil, reset oil life display.
2. To reset, press INFORMATION button to display OIL LIFE INDEX. Press and hold STORE/RECALL
button until 100 is displayed. This will reset oil life display to 100 percent.
1. The Driver Information Center (DIC) displays estimated percentage of the remaining useful life of engine
oil or transaxle fluid. When remaining oil or fluid life is 0 percent, the display will show CHANGE OIL
NOW or CHANGE TRNS FLUID NOW. After changing engine oil or transaxle fluid, reset oil life
display.
2. To reset the display, turn ignition on with engine off. Press ENG button to select the OIL LIFE or TRNS
FLUID LIFE percentage display. Then, press and hold in RESET for at least 5 seconds.
3. The word RESET will appear. Then, OIL LIFE 100 or TRNS FLUID 100 will be displayed.
1. An oil change reminder displays estimated percentage of the remaining useful life of the oil. When engine
is started, a tone will sound and approximate distance to next oil change will be displayed.
2. When remaining oil life is 10 percent or less, the system will calculate distance to next oil change. When
the oil life is 0 percent, the display will show CHANGE OIL NOW. After changing oil, reset oil life
display.
3. To reset the display, press and hold in OIL button to select the oil life display. Then, press and hold in
RESET and OIL buttons for at least 5 seconds. This will reset oil life display to 100 percent.
1. To reset the display, press and release RESET button on Driver Information Center (DIC).
2. Press SEL button (with down arrow) to select OIL.
3. Press SEL button (with left and right arrows) to display oil life.
4. Press and hold RESET button for about 5 seconds.
5. A reset message will display, then oil life will display 100 percent.
OIL LIFE INDEX is one of 4 engine data displays used on models with Information Center display. It will
display remaining oil life as estimated percentage of the useful life of oil. It will show 100 percent when the
system is reset. After changing oil, reset oil life display.
1. To reset the display, press ENG DATA button (1989-90) or OPTIONS button (1991-92) until oil life
index is displayed.
2. Then, press and hold in ENG DATA and GAGE buttons (1989) or RESET/ENTER button (1990-92) for
at least 5 seconds. This will reset remaining oil life to 100 percent.
OIL LIFE is one of the displays used on models with a Visual Information Center (VIC). It will display data
regarding previous oil change. A bar graph display shows full when oil is changed. Bar graph will go down as
vehicle is driven and oil ages. When bar graph reaches CHANGE OIL mark, oil should be changed. After
changing oil, reset oil life display.
1. To reset the display, press INFO hard key and then OIL LIFE soft key to display oil life index.
2. Press RESET soft key.
3. A reset confirmation page will appear and ask if oil has been changed. Press YES soft key to reset bar
graph, and update last oil change date and mileage information.
When the system has calculated that oil life has been diminished, it will indicate that an oil change is necessary.
A CHANGE ENGINE OIL SOON message will come on. Change the engine oil as soon as possible within the
next 600 miles (1000 km). It is possible that, if driving under the best conditions, the oil life system may not
indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, the engine oil and filter must be changed at
least once a year and at this time the system must be reset.
1. With the CHANGE OIL SOON message displayed, press any of the three driver information center (DIC)
buttons to clear the CHANGE OIL SOON message.
2. Display OIL LIFE RESET on the DIC.
3. Press and hold the ENTER button for at least one second. An ACKNOWLEDGED display message will
appear for three seconds or until the next button is pressed. This will tell you the system has reset.
4. Turn the ignition to OFF.
If the CHANGE ENGINE OIL message comes back on when you start the vehicle the Engine Oil Life System
has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
This vehicle has a computer system that indicates when to change the engine oil and filter. This is based on a
combination of factors which include engine revolutions, engine temperature, and miles driven. Based on
driving conditions, the mileage at which an oil change is indicated can vary considerably. For the oil life system
to work properly, the system must be reset every time the oil is changed. To reset the system:
Reset Procedure
1. Using the DIC controls on the right side of the steering wheel, display REMAINING OIL LIFE on the
driver information center (DIC).
2. Press SEL on the DIC controls and hold SEL down for a few seconds to clear the CHANGE ENGINE
OIL SOON message and reset the oil life at 100%.
NOTE: Be careful not to reset the oil life display accidentally at any time other
than after the oil is changed. It cannot be reset accurately until the next oil
change.
1. Every 30,000 miles, a reminder flag appears in speedometer face, indicating service of oxygen sensor is
necessary. See Fig. 3. Inspect and service oxygen sensor as necessary and reset flag.
2. To reset flag, remove instrument panel trim plate. Remove instrument cluster lens. Using pointed tool,
apply light downward pressure on notches of flag until it is reset. An alignment mark will appear in left
center of odometer window when flag is fully reset.
At 30,000 mile intervals, a SENSOR light in dash will start flashing, indicating oxygen sensor needs
replacement. To reset mileage counter (after sensor replacement), locate SENSOR light cancel switch on right
side of fuse box. Return cancel switch to OFF position. Start engine to ensure light remains off.
NOTE: To determine the appropriate reset procedure, refer to Service Reminder Reset
Index. Only vehicles listed in this index have a Service Reminder reset.
The SERVICE REMINDER message light is used on models with a Driver Information Center (DIC). After
performing necessary services, reset service reminder light.
1. To reset service reminder, push DIC button until desired service item is displayed.
2. Press and hold down the DIC button. With button pressed, the distance display will decrease in
increments of 500 miles.
3. Release button when desired distance is displayed on the DIC.
The displayed service reminder is reset using a scan tool or by the following procedure:
NOTE: If the service reminder comes back on when you start the vehicle, the Service
Reminder Display has not reset. Repeat the procedure.
NOTE: To determine the appropriate reset procedure, refer to TPMS RESET INDEX.
Only vehicles listed in this index have a TPMS reset.
Pontiac
Aztek 2003-05 (1) TPMS Reset - Procedure 23
(1) This is an Indirect TPM System. A tire sensor activation tool is not required for this procedure.
(2) A tire sensor activation tool cannot be used for this procedure.
NOTE: When the wheels have been rotated, or a tire pressure sensor or EGM/LGM has
been replaced, retrain tire pressure sensors.
NOTE: The DIC will display the "SERVICE TIRE MONITOR" message if one or more of
the tire pressure sensors has malfunctioned or if all of the sensors have not
been programmed successfully. If, after the relearn procedure, the warning
indicators are still on, there is a problem in the TPM system.
NOTE: If this procedure is performed following replacement and reprogramming of the
Liftgate Module (LGM), DIC may display a low tire pressure fault and all tire
pressures read 0 psi. If this problem occurs, see appropriate manufacturer
service information.
NOTE: The TPM system will cancel the learn mode if more than 2 minutes have passed
and no sensors have been learned, or if the system has been in learn mode for
more than 5 minutes. If the learn mode is canceled before any sensor has been
learned, the EGM/LGM will remember all current sensor IDs and their locations.
As soon as the first sensor ID code is learned, all other IDs are erased from the
EGM/LGM's memory. On models that display the individual tire pressure on DIC,
updated tire pressures will not be displayed until EGM/LGM receives 2 more
valid transmissions from each sensor.
NOTE: Before proceeding with the steps below, ensure that no other sensor learn
procedure is being performed simultaneously, or that tire pressures are not
being adjusted on a TPM equipped vehicle within close proximity.
1. Set the tire pressure of all wheels to pressure specified on the tire and loading information label.
2. Turn ignition ON with engine OFF. Apply parking brake.
NOTE: If Learn Mode cannot be enabled, TPM system is not enabled in EGM/LGM.
See appropriate manufacturer service information.
3. To enable Learn Mode, turn headlight switch from OFF to parking lamps 4 times within 4 seconds. A
double horn chirp will sound and the low tire pressure indicator will begin to flash to indicate the learn
mode has been enabled.
4. Starting with left front tire, hold a tire sensor activation tool against the side wall of the tire, within 3
inches of the valve stem. Activate tool until a horn chirp sounds.
5. After horn chirp has sounded, proceed to the next 3 sensors in the following order: right front, right rear
and left rear.
6. After left rear sensor has been learned, turn ignition switch to OFF position to exit Learn Mode.
7. Test drive the vehicle above 25 mph for at least 2 minutes before viewing tire pressures on DIC.
NOTE: If a tire pressure sensor or the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR) is
replaced, or if wheels have been rotated, tire pressure sensor must be retrained.
NOTE: When the tire pressure warning light illuminates and warning message appears
on DIC, immediately check air pressure of all tires and adjust to the specified
pressure. If warning indicators are still on or display shows dashes instead of a
value, there is a problem in the TPM system. See appropriate manufacturer
service information.
NOTE: Under the following conditions, the TPM system may not function properly:
NOTE: If a tire pressure sensor or the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR) is
replaced, or if wheels have been rotated, tire pressure sensor must be retrained.
NOTE: The relearn procedure must be completed within 15 minutes from when the
vehicle is stationary after being driven at 20 mph (32 km/h), or greater, for 10
seconds.
NOTE: The learn mode will cancel if the ignition is cycled to OFF or if more than 2
minutes has elapsed for any sensor that has not been learned. If the learn mode
is cancelled before the first sensor is learned, the original sensor IDs will be
maintained. If the learn mode is canceled after the first sensor is learned, the
following will occur:
These conditions will now require the learn procedure to be repeated for the
system to function properly.
IMPORTANT: Ensure that no other learn procedure is being performed simultaneously or that
tire pressures are not being adjusted on another TPM equipped vehicle within
close proximity. Stray signals from other TPM equipped vehicles just driving by
can be inadvertently learned. If any random horn chirps are heard from the
vehicle while performing the learn procedure, most likely a stray sensor has
been learned and the procedure will need to be cancelled and repeated. Under
these circumstances, performing the TPM Learn Procedure away from other
vehicles would be highly recommended. In the event a particular sensor
activation does not cause the horn to chirp, it may be necessary to rotate the
wheel valve stem to a different position due to the sensor signal is being
blocked by another component.
NOTE: If a tire pressure sensor or the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR) is
replaced, or if wheels have been rotated, tire pressure sensor must be
relearned.
NOTE: When the tire pressure warning light illuminates and warning message appears
on DIC, immediately check air pressure of all tires and adjust to the specified
pressure. If warning indicators are still on or display shows dashes instead of a
value, there is a problem in the TPM system. See appropriate manufacturer
service information.
NOTE: In vehicles without the "UH3" option, each turn signal will illuminate one at a
time indicating which location is to be learn.
NOTE: The TPM system will cancel the learn mode if more then 2 minutes have passed
and no sensors have been learned, or if the ignition switch is turn to the OFF
position. If the learn mode is canceled before the first ID is learned, the RCDLR
will remember all previously stored IDs and their locations. As soon as the first
sensor ID is learned, all other IDs are erased from the RCDLR's memory. If the
learn mode is canceled after the first ID is learned, the RCDLR will store the IDs
as invalid and the DIC will display dashes instead of tire pressures.
NOTE: Before proceeding with the registration procedure, ensure that no other sensor
learn procedure is being performed simultaneously, or that no tire pressures
are being adjusted on another TPM equipped vehicle within close proximity.
1. Set the tire pressure of all wheels to pressure specified on the tire and loading information label.
2. Turn ignition switch to ACC position. Apply parking brake.
3. Simultaneously press the keyless entry transmitter's lock and unlock buttons until a double horn chirp
sounds, indicating the Learn Mode has been enabled.
NOTE: The left front turn signal will also illuminate to indicate the learn mode has
been enabled.
4. Starting with left front tire, hold a tire sensor activation tool against the side wall of the tire, within 3
inches of the valve stem. Activate tool until a horn chirp sounds.
5. After horn chirp has sounded and the right turn signal has illuminated, proceed to the next 3 sensors in the
following order: right front, right rear and left rear.
6. After left rear sensor has been learned, a double horn chirp will sound, indicating all 4 sensor IDs have
been learned. Turn ignition switch to OFF position to exit Learn Mode.
NOTE: If the wheels have been rotated, or tire pressure sensor or Remote Control Door
Lock Receiver (RCDLR) is replaced, the TPM system needs to relearn tire
pressure sensor IDs.
NOTE: When the tire pressure warning light illuminates and warning message appears
on DIC, immediately check air pressure of all tires and adjust to the specified
pressure. If warning indicators are still on, there is a problem in the TPM
system. See appropriate manufacturer service information.
NOTE: The TPM system will cancel Learn Mode if ignition is turned off, if more than 1
or 2 minutes has passed and no sensors have been learned, vehicle battery
voltage is less than 8 volts, all 4 sensors have been learned, or if the RCDLR
has been in Learn Mode for more than 5 minutes. If Learn Mode is cancelled
before any IDs are learned, the RCDLR will remember all previously stored IDs
and their locations. As soon as the first sensor ID is learned, all other IDs are
erased from the RCDLR's memory.
NOTE: Before proceeding with the registration procedure, ensure that no other sensor
learn procedure is being performed simultaneously, or that no tire pressures
are being adjusted on another TPM equipped vehicle within close proximity.
1. Set the tire pressure of all wheels to pressure specified on the tire and loading information label.
2. Turn ignition ON with engine OFF.
NOTE: If the TPM Learn Mode cannot be enabled, ensure the TPM option is
enabled in the RCDLR. See appropriate manufacturer service information.
3. Simultaneously press the keyless entry transmitter's lock and unlock buttons until a horn chirp sounds,
indicating Learn Mode has been enabled.
NOTE: If a horn chirp does not sound after 15 seconds, remove, then re-apply
TPM sensor relearn magnet.
4. Starting with left front tire, hold a tire sensor activation tool against the side wall of the tire, within 3
inches of the valve stem. Activate tool until a horn chirp sounds.
5. After the horn chirp sounds, proceed to the next 3 sensors in the following order: right front, right rear,
then left rear.
6. After the left rear sensor ID is learned, a double horn chirp will sound, indicating all 4 sensor IDs have
been learned. Turn the ignition switch to OFF position to exit Learn Mode.
NOTE: If the wheels have been rotated, or tire pressure sensor or Remote Control Door
Lock Receiver (RCDLR) is replaced, the TPM system needs to relearn tire
pressure sensor IDs.
NOTE: When the tire pressure warning light illuminates and warning message appears
on DIC, immediately check air pressure of all tires and adjust to the specified
pressure. If warning indicators are still on, there is a problem in the TPM
system. See appropriate manufacturer service information.
NOTE: The TPM system will cancel Learn Mode if ignition is turned off, if more than 1
or 2 minutes has passed and no sensors have been learned, vehicle battery
voltage is less than 8 volts, all 4 sensors have been learned, or if the RCDLR
has been in Learn Mode for more than 5 minutes. If Learn Mode is cancelled
before any IDs are learned, the RCDLR will remember all previously stored IDs
and their locations. As soon as the first sensor ID is learned, all other IDs are
erased from the RCDLR's memory.
NOTE: Before proceeding with the registration procedure, ensure that no other sensor
learn procedure is being performed simultaneously, or that no tire pressures
are being adjusted on another TPM equipped vehicle within close proximity.
1. Set the tire pressure of all wheels to pressure specified on the tire and loading information label.
2. Turn ignition ON with engine OFF.
3. Simultaneously press the keyless entry transmitter's lock and unlock buttons until a horn chirp sounds,
indicating Learn Mode has been enabled.
4. Starting with left front tire, hold a tire sensor activation tool against the side wall of the tire, within 3
inches of the valve stem. Activate tool until a horn chirp sounds.
5. After the horn chirp sounds, proceed to the next 3 sensors in the following order: right front, right rear,
then left rear.
6. After the left rear sensor ID is learned, a double horn chirp will sound, indicating all 4 sensor IDs have
been learned. Turn the ignition switch to OFF position to exit Learn Mode.
NOTE: If the wheels have been rotated, or tire pressure sensor or Remote Control Door
Lock Receiver (RCDLR) is replaced, the TPM system needs to relearn tire
pressure sensor IDs.
NOTE: When the tire pressure warning light illuminates and warning message appears
on DIC, immediately check air pressure of all tires and adjust to the specified
pressure. If warning indicators are still on, there is a problem in the TPM
system. See appropriate manufacturer service information.
NOTE: The TPM system will cancel Learn Mode if ignition is turned off, if more than 1
or 2 minutes has passed and no sensors have been learned, vehicle battery
voltage is less than 8 volts, all 4 sensors have been learned, or if the RCDLR
has been in Learn Mode for more than 5 minutes. If Learn Mode is cancelled
before any IDs are learned, the RCDLR will remember all previously stored IDs
and their locations. As soon as the first sensor ID is learned, all other IDs are
erased from the RCDLR's memory.
1. Set the tire pressure of all wheels to pressure specified on the tire and loading information label.
2. Turn ignition ON with engine OFF.
3. Press RESET button on DIC in order to clear any warning messages.
4. Press and release OPTIONS button until display is blank.
5. Press and hold RESET button for 3 seconds.
NOTE: If the DIC does not display "TIRE TRAINING" message, ensure TPM option
is enabled in the RCDLR. See appropriate manufacturer service
information.
NOTE: Before proceeding with this process, ensure that no other learn procedure is
being performed simultaneously or that tire pressures are not being adjusted
on another TPM equipped vehicle within close proximity. Stray signals from
other TPM equipped vehicles just driving by can be inadvertently learned. If any
random horn chirps are heard from the vehicle while performing the learn
procedure, most likely a stray sensor has been learned and the procedure will
need to be cancelled and repeated. Under these circumstances, performing the
TPM Learn Procedure away from other vehicles would be highly recommended.
In the event a particular sensor activation does not cause the horn to chirp, it
may be necessary to rotate the wheel valve stem to a different position due to
the sensor signal is being blocked by another component.
Each TPMS sensor has a unique identification code. The identification code needs to be matched to a new
tire/wheel position after rotating the tires or replacing one or more of the TPMS sensors. When a tire is
installed, the vehicle must be stationary for about 20 minutes before the system recalculates. The following
relearn process takes up to 10 minutes, driving at a minimum speed of 12 mph (19 km/h). A dash (-) or pressure
value will display in the DIC. A warning message displays in the DIC if a problem occurs during the relearn
process.
NOTE: If a tire pressure sensor or the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR) is
replaced, or if wheels have been rotated, tire pressure sensor must be
relearned.
NOTE: When the tire pressure warning light illuminates and warning message appears
on DIC, immediately check air pressure of all tires and adjust to the specified
pressure. If warning indicators are still on or display shows dashes instead of a
value, there is a problem in the TPM system. See appropriate manufacturer
service information.
NOTE: The TPM system will cancel the learn mode if more then 2 minutes have passed
and no sensors have been learned, or if the ignition switch is turn to the OFF
position. If the learn mode is canceled before the first ID is learned, the RCDLR
will remember all previously stored IDs and their locations. As soon as the first
sensor ID is learned, all other IDs are erased from the RCDLR's memory. If the
learn mode is canceled after the first ID is learned, the RCDLR will store the IDs
as invalid and the DIC will display dashes instead of tire pressures.
NOTE: Before proceeding with the registration procedure, ensure that no other sensor
learn procedure is being performed simultaneously, or that no tire pressures
are being adjusted on another TPM equipped vehicle within close proximity.
1. Set the tire pressure of all wheels to pressure specified on the tire and loading information label.
2. Turn ignition switch to RUN position. Apply parking brake.
3. Simultaneously press the keyless entry transmitter's lock and unlock buttons until a double horn chirp
sounds, indicating the Learn Mode has been enabled.
4. Starting with left front tire, hold a tire sensor activation tool against the side wall of the tire, within 3
inches of the valve stem. Activate tool until a horn chirp sounds.
5. After horn chirp has sounded and the right turn signal has illuminated, proceed to the next 3 sensors in the
following order: right front, right rear and left rear.
6. After left rear sensor has been learned, a double horn chirp will sound, indicating all 4 sensor IDs have
been learned. Turn ignition switch to OFF position to exit Learn Mode.
NOTE: If a tire pressure sensor or the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR) is
replaced, or if wheels have been rotated, tire pressure sensor must be
relearned.
NOTE: When the tire pressure warning light illuminates and warning message appears
on DIC, immediately check air pressure of all tires and adjust to the specified
pressure. If warning indicators are still on or display shows dashes instead of a
value, there is a problem in the TPM system. See appropriate manufacturer
service information.
NOTE: The TPM system will cancel the learn mode if more then 2 minutes have passed
and no sensors have been learned, or if the ignition switch is turn to the OFF
position. If the learn mode is canceled before the first ID is learned, the RCDLR
will remember all previously stored IDs and their locations. As soon as the first
sensor ID is learned, all other IDs are erased from the RCDLR's memory. If the
learn mode is canceled after the first ID is learned, the RCDLR will store the IDs
as invalid and the DIC will display dashes instead of tire pressures.
NOTE: Before proceeding with the registration procedure, ensure that no other sensor
learn procedure is being performed simultaneously, or that no tire pressures
are being adjusted on another TPM equipped vehicle within close proximity.
1. Set the tire pressure of all wheels to pressure specified on the tire and loading information label.
2. Depending on ignition type:
z With standard ignition switch, place the switch in the RUN position.
z With electronic keyless ignition, place the switch in the ACC position.
3. Simultaneously press the keyless entry transmitter's lock and unlock buttons until a double horn chirp
sounds, indicating the Learn Mode has been enabled.
4. Starting with left front tire, hold a tire sensor activation tool against the side wall of the tire, within 3
inches of the valve stem. Activate tool until a horn chirp sounds.
5. After horn chirp has sounded and the right turn signal has illuminated, proceed to the next 3 sensors in the
following order: right front, right rear and left rear.
6. After left rear sensor has been learned, a double horn chirp will sound, indicating all 4 sensor IDs have
been learned. Turn ignition switch to OFF position to exit Learn Mode.
1. Set the tire pressure of all wheels to pressure specified on the tire and loading information label.
2. Set the parking brake.
3. Place the vehicle power mode in ON/RUN/START.
4. Make sure the Tire Pressure info display option is turned on. The info displays on the DIC can be turned
on and off through the Settings menu.
5. Use the five-way DIC control on the right side of the steering wheel to scroll to the Tire Pressure screen
under the DIC info page.
6. Press and hold the SEL button located in the center of the five-way DIC control. The horn sounds twice to
signal the receiver is in relearn mode and the TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message displays on the DIC
screen
7. Start with the driver side front tire. Place a tire sensor activation tool against the tire sidewall, near the
valve stem. Then press the button to activate the TPMS sensor. A horn chirp confirms that the sensor
identification code has been matched to this tire and wheel position.
8. After horn chirp has sounded, proceed to the next 3 sensors in the following order: right front, right rear
and left rear.
9. After left rear sensor has been learned, the horn sounds two times to indicate the sensor identification
code has been matched to the driver side rear tire, and the TPMS sensor matching process is no longer
active. The TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message on the DIC display screen goes off.
10. Press STOP to turn the ignition off.
TPMS RESET - PROCEDURE 12
1. Set the tire pressure of all wheels to pressure specified on the tire and loading information label.
2. Set the parking brake.
3. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN with the engine off.
4. Use the MENU button (center console) to select the Vehicle Information Menu in the Driver Information
Center (DIC). Use the arrow keys to scroll to the Tire Pressure screen
5. Press the SET/CLR button to begin the sensor matching process. A message requesting acceptance of the
process should display.
6. Press the SET/CLR button again to confirm the selection. The horn sounds twice to signal the receiver is
in relearn mode and the TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message displays on the DIC screen.
7. Start with the driver side front tire. Place a tire sensor activation tool against the tire sidewall, near the
valve stem. Then press the button to activate the TPMS sensor. A horn chirp confirms that the sensor
identification code has been matched to this tire and wheel position.
8. After horn chirp has sounded, proceed to the next 3 sensors in the following order: right front, right rear
and left rear.
9. After left rear sensor has been learned, the horn sounds two times to indicate the sensor identification
code has been matched to the driver side rear tire, and the TPMS sensor matching process is no longer
active. The TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message on the DIC display screen goes off.
10. Turn the ignition to LOCK/OFF.
LOW TIRE PRESSURE light comes on if air pressure in one tire drops to 12 psi (kPa) less than the other 3
tires, if tires are rotated, if tire(s) are repaired or replaced, if air pressure is adjusted or when vehicle battery is
disconnected. Light will stay on until ignition is turned off or RESET button is pressed. Check and adjust air
pressure in all 4 tires before resetting system.
1. There are 2 ways to reset the tire inflation monitor. To reset the tire inflation monitor using the exterior or
interior lamp controls, go to step 4. To reset tire inflation monitor using the radio, turn the radio off. Turn
ignition to ACC or ON, with the engine OFF. Press and hold the TUNE DISP button on the radio for at
least 5 seconds until settings is displayed.
2. To scroll through the main menu:
z On Impala, press the SEEK PTYPE up or down arrow.
On all models, scroll until TIRE MON appears on the display. Press the 1 PREV or 2 NEXT button to
enter the sub-menu. RESET will be displayed.
3. Press the TUNE DISP button to reset. A chime will sound to verify the new setting and DONE will be
displayed for one second. Once the message has been reset, scroll through the menu until EXIT appears
on the display. Press the TUNE DISP button to exit the program. A chime will sound to verify the exit.
4. Reset the tire inflation monitor:
z On Impala, using the interior lighting controls, turn the switch from OFF to ON position 3 times
with ignition switch in ON position.
z On Monte Carlo, using the exterior lighting controls, turn the switch from OFF to parking lamps 3
times with ignition switch in ON position.
NOTE: There are 3 different ways to reset the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) system.
After resetting, the TPM system requires up to 30 minutes of straight line
driving in each of the 3 speed ranges to complete the calibration process.
CHECK TIRE PRESSURE or TIRE PRESS message will come on if air pressure in one tire is lower than the
other 3 tires, if tires are rotated, if tire(s) are repaired or replaced, or if air pressure is adjusted. Message will
stay on until system is recalibrated. Check and adjust air pressure in all 4 tires before recalibrating system.
1. To recalibrate vehicle equipped with Driver Information Center (DIC), turn ignition ON with engine
OFF. Using the MODE and SELECT button on DIC, change display until TIRE PRESSURE appears.
Press and hold RESET button for 5 seconds. TIRE PRESSURE RESET should now appear on display. If
TIRE PRESSURE RESET does not appear on display after 5 seconds, repair system as necessary. Using
a scan tool, clear TPM DTC.
2. To recalibrate vehicle equipped with Systems Monitor, turn ignition ON with engine OFF. Press and hold
TIRE PRESS RESET button for 5 seconds. TIRE PRESS light on the Systems Monitor should begin to
flash. Release the TIRE PRESS RESET button. TIRE PRESS light should go out and system is now reset.
If TIRE PRESS light does not begin to flash after 5 seconds, repair system as necessary. Using a scan
tool, clear TPM DTC.
CHECK TIRE PRESSURE light comes on if air pressure in one tire drops to 12 psi (kPa) less than the other 3
tires, if tires are rotated, if tire(s) are repaired or replaced, or if air pressure is adjusted. Light will stay on until
ignition is turned off or RESET button is pressed. Check and adjust air pressure in all 4 tires before resetting
system.
1. To reset tire inflation monitor, turn ignition ON with engine OFF. Press and release the RESET button.
RESET button is located inside of driver's side instrument panel fuse block (left end of instrument panel).
The CHANGE OIL indicator light will begin to flash.
2. Press and release the RESET button again. The CHANGE OIL indicator light will turn off, and the
CHECK TIRE PRESSURE indicator light will begin to flash. While the CHECK TIRE PRESSURE
indicator light is flashing, press and hold the RESET button until the chime sounds indicating system is
reset. If CHECK TIRE PRESSURE light does not go out, repeat reset procedure. If system still will not
reset, repair system as necessary.
NOTE: When a spare tire is mounted, a wheel is replaced or rotated, or tire pressure
has been adjusted, TPM system will need to be recalibrated.
NOTE: When the low tire pressure warning messages appear, immediately check air
pressure of all tires and adjust to the specified pressure. If warning messages
are still displayed, there is a malfunction in the TPM system. See appropriate
manufacturer service information.
NOTE: Under the following conditions, the system may not function properly:
CAUTION: DO NOT recalibrate TPM system until all problems are fixed and tire
pressure in all 4 tires has been adjusted. If recalibration is done when tire
pressures are incorrect, TPM system will not work properly and may not
set an alert when a tire pressure is low or high.
NOTE: There are 2 ways to recalibrate the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) system:
NOTE: The EBCM learns tire pressure calibration for each speed range
independently. In Monitor Mode 1, EBCM has only partially learned tire
pressure calibration for speed range and has limited detection capability
for a tire pressure condition. In Monitor Mode 2, EBCM has fully learned
tire pressure calibration for speed range and has full detection capability
for a tire pressure condition.
NOTE: Learning process does not need to be completed during a single trip.
NOTE: The EBCM learns tire pressure calibration for each speed range
independently. In Monitor Mode 1, EBCM has only partially learned tire
pressure calibration for speed range and has limited detection capability
for a tire pressure condition. In Monitor Mode 2, EBCM has fully learned
tire pressure calibration for speed range and has full detection capability
for a tire pressure condition.
NOTE: Learning process does not need to be completed during a single trip.
The Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) system alerts the driver when a large change in the pressure of one tire exists,
while the vehicle is being driven. The TPM system uses the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM), ABS
wheel speed sensor inputs, class 2 serial data circuit, and the Driver Information Center (DIC) to perform the
system functions. The EBCM contains software to calculate relative tire pressure differences. The software
requires approximately 30 minutes of straight line driving in 3 different speed ranges to complete the calibration
process to have full capability for detecting a tire pressure condition. The speed ranges are 15-40 mph, 40-70
mph and 70-90 mph.
1. LOW TIRE PRESSURE light comes on if air pressure in one tire drops to 12 psi less than the other 3
tires, if tires are rotated, if tire(s) are repaired or replaced, if air pressure is adjusted or if vehicle battery is
disconnected. Light will stay on until ignition is turned off or RESET button is pressed. Check and adjust
air pressure in all 4 tires before resetting system.
2. To reset tire inflation monitor, turn ignition ON with engine OFF. Press and release the RESET button.
RESET button is located inside of driver's side instrument panel fuse block (left end of instrument panel).
The CHANGE OIL indicator light will begin to flash.
3. Press and release the RESET button again. The CHANGE OIL indicator light will turn off, and the LOW
TIRE PRESSURE indicator light will begin to flash. While the LOW TIRE PRESSURE indicator light is
flashing, press and hold the RESET button until the chime sounds indicating system is reset. If the LOW
TIRE PRESSURE indicator light does not go out, repeat reset procedure. If system still will not reset,
repair system as necessary.
NOTE: After resetting, the tire pressure monitoring (TPM) system requires 60 minutes
or more of driving at a speed of 30 km/h (19 mph) or above to complete the
calibration process to have full capability for detecting a tire pressure
condition.
NOTE: When a spare tire is mounted, a wheel is replaced or rotated, or tire pressure
has been adjusted, TPM system will need to be recalibrated.
CAUTION: DO NOT recalibrate TPM system until all problems are fixed and tire
pressure in all 4 tires has been adjusted. If recalibration is done when tire
pressures are incorrect, TPM system will not work properly and may not
set an alert when a tire pressure is low or high.
NOTE: When the tire pressure warning message appears on DIC, immediately check air
pressure of all tires and adjust to the specified pressure. If warning message is
still displayed, there is a malfunction in the TPM system. See appropriate
manufacturer service information.
NOTE: Under the following conditions, the system may not function properly:
NOTE: There are 2 ways to recalibrate the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) system:
5. Press and hold RESET button for 5 seconds. After 5 seconds, "TIRE PRESSURE RESET" message
should appear on display.
6. Release RESET button. A "TIRE PRESSURE NORMAL" message should appear on display.
7. After resetting, the TPM system requires up to 30 minutes of straight line driving in each of the following
speed ranges to complete calibration process:
z 15-40 mph (24-64 km/h).
NOTE: The EBCM learns tire pressure calibration for each speed range
independently. In Monitor Mode 1, EBCM has only partially learned tire
pressure calibration for speed range and has limited detection capability
for a tire pressure condition. In Monitor Mode 2, EBCM has fully learned
tire pressure calibration for speed range and has full detection capability
for a tire pressure condition.
NOTE: Learning process does not need to be completed during a single trip.
NOTE: The EBCM learns tire pressure calibration for each speed range
independently. In Monitor Mode 1, EBCM has only partially learned tire
pressure calibration for speed range and has limited detection capability
for a tire pressure condition. In Monitor Mode 2, EBCM has fully learned
tire pressure calibration for speed range and has full detection capability
for a tire pressure condition.
NOTE: Learning process does not need to be completed during a single trip.
1. Adjust all tire pressures to the recommended Psi (kPa). See vehicle's Loading Information Label for
recommended tire pressure. Turn ignition ON with engine OFF.
2. Press and hold the red RESET button located in the passenger side instrument panel fuse block.
3. The LOW TIRE indicator will flash 3 times, then turn off.
4. Use scan tool to clear the TPM DTC.
1. Adjust all tire pressures to the recommended Psi (kPa). See vehicle's Loading Information Label for
recommended tire pressure. Turn ignition ON with engine OFF.
2. Install scan tool. Turn ignition ON with engine OFF.
3. With scan tool, select Special Functions.
4. Select TIM Reset.
5. Press Reset soft key.
6. LOW TIRE indicator will flash 3 times, then turn OFF.
7. Clear the TPM DTC.
CAUTION: DO NOT recalibrate TPM system until all problems are fixed and tire
pressure in all 4 tires has been adjusted. If recalibration is done when tire
pressures are incorrect, TPM system will not work properly and may not
set an alert when a tire pressure is low or high.
NOTE: If low tire pressure warning message is still set, TPM system has not reset.
Repeat procedure. If it does not work after two tries, refer to appropriate
service information.
7. After resetting, the TPM system requires up to 5 miles of driving in each of the following speed ranges to
complete the calibration process:
z 25-40 mph (40-64 km/h).
NOTE: Learning process does not need to be completed during a single trip.
1. Check and adjust air pressure in all 4 tires before resetting system. Refer to tire placard located on the
inside edge of the driver's door. Turn ignition ON, with engine OFF.
2. Press the MODE button on the Driver Information System until LOW TIRE PRESSURE HOLD SET TO
RESET is displayed.
3. Press and hold the SET button until a chime sounds and TIRE PRESSURE RESET is displayed and a
chime sounds 3 times.
4. Release the SET button and TIRE PRESSURE NORMAL will be displayed.
NOTE: When a spare tire is mounted, a wheel is replaced or rotated, or tire pressure
has been adjusted, TPM system will need to be recalibrated.
CAUTION: DO NOT recalibrate TPM system until all problems are fixed and tire
pressure in all 4 tires has been adjusted. If recalibration is done when tire
pressures are incorrect, TPM system will not work properly and may not
set an alert when a tire pressure is low or high.
NOTE: If low tire pressure warning message is still set, TPM system has not reset.
Repeat procedure.
7. After resetting, the TPM system requires up to 5 miles (8 km) of flat, smooth road, straight line driving in
each of the 4 speed ranges (about 10-20 minutes in each range) to complete the calibration process:
z 19-40 mph (31-65 km/h).
NOTE: The EBCM learns tire pressure calibration for each speed range
independently. In Calibration Mode, EBCM has only partially learned
tire pressure calibration for speed range and has limited detection
capability for a tire pressure condition. In Detection Mode, EBCM has
fully learned tire pressure calibration for speed range and has full
detection capability for a tire pressure condition.
NOTE: Learning process does not need to be completed during a single trip.
1. Set the tire pressure of all wheels to pressure specified on the tire and loading information label.
2. Set the parking brake.
3. Turn the ignition to ON/ RUN with the engine OFF or place the vehicle power mode in ON/ RUN/
START. See Fig. 4.
4. Use the MENU button to select the VEHICLE INFORMATION MENU in the Driver Information Center
(DIC). See Fig. 5.
5. Use the thumbwheel (or up and down arrows) to scroll to the TIRE PRESSURE MENU item screen.
6. Press the SET/CLR button to begin the sensor matching process. A message requesting acceptance of the
process should display.
7. Press the SET/CLR button again to confirm the selection. The horn sounds twice to signal the receiver is
in relearn mode and the TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message displays on the DIC screen.
8. Starting with left front tire, hold a tire sensor activation tool against the side wall of the tire, within 3
inches of the valve stem. Activate tool until a horn chirp sounds.
9. After horn chirp has sounded and the right turn signal has illuminated, proceed to the next 3 sensors in the
following order: right front, right rear and left rear.
10. After left rear sensor has been learned, a double horn chirp will sound, indicating all 4 sensor IDs have
been learned. Turn ignition switch to OFF position to exit Learn Mode.
1. Set the tire pressure of all wheels to pressure specified on the tire and loading information label.
2. Set the parking brake.
3. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN with the engine OFF.
4. Up-level Driver Information Center (DIC) Only: Make sure the TIRE PRESSURE INFO page option is
turned on. The info pages on the DIC can be turned on and off through the SETTINGS menu.
5. If the vehicle has an up-level DIC, use the DIC controls (arrow buttons) on the right side of the steering
wheel to scroll to the TIRE PRESSURE screen under the DIC info page. If the vehicle has a base-level
DIC, use the TRIP ODOMETER RESET stem to scroll to the TIRE PRESSURE screen.
6. If the vehicle has an up-level DIC, press and hold the SET/RESET button (check-mark symbol) located in
the center of the DIC controls. If the vehicle has a base-level DIC, press and hold the TRIP ODOMETER
RESET stem for about five seconds. A message asking if the process should begin should appear. Select
YES and press the TRIP ODOMETER RESET stem to confirm the selection.
7. The horn sounds twice to signal the receiver is in relearn mode and the TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE
message displays on the DIC screen.
8. Starting with left front tire, hold a tire sensor activation tool against the side wall of the tire, within 3
inches of the valve stem. Activate tool until a horn chirp sounds.
9. After horn chirp has sounded and the right turn signal has illuminated, proceed to the next 3 sensors in the
following order: right front, right rear and left rear.
10. After left rear sensor has been learned, a double horn chirp will sound, indicating all 4 sensor IDs have
been learned. Turn ignition switch to OFF position to exit Learn Mode.
1. Set the tire pressure of all wheels to pressure specified on the tire and loading information label.
2. Turn ignition switch to ON/RUN position, with engine OFF.
3. Simultaneously press the keyless entry transmitter's lock and unlock buttons until a horn chirp sounds,
indicating Learn Mode has been enabled. The TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message displays on the DIC
screen.
NOTE: If the vehicle does not have RKE, press the Driver Information Center (DIC)
vehicle information button until the PRESS (check mark symbol) TO
RELEARN TIRE POSITIONS message displays. The horn sounds twice to
signal the receiver is in relearn mode and TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE
message displays on the DIC screen. If the vehicle does not have RKE or
DIC buttons, press the trip odometer reset stem on the instrument cluster
until the PRESS (check mark symbol) TO RELEARN TIRE POSITIONS
message displays. The horn sounds twice to signal the receiver is in
relearn mode and TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE message displays on the DIC
screen.
4. Starting with left front tire, hold a tire sensor activation tool against the side wall of the tire, within 3
inches of the valve stem. Activate tool until a horn chirp sounds.
5. After horn chirp has sounded and the right turn signal has illuminated, proceed to the next 3 sensors in the
following order: right front, right rear and left rear.
6. After left rear sensor has been learned, a double horn chirp will sound, indicating all 4 sensor IDs have
been learned. Turn ignition switch to OFF position to exit Learn Mode.
1. Set the tire pressure of all wheels to pressure specified on the tire and loading information label.
2. Set the parking brake.
3. Turn the ignition to ON/ RUN with the engine OFF or place the vehicle power mode in ON/ RUN/
START. See Fig. 4.
4. Make sure the Tire Pressure info page option is turned on. The info pages on the Driver Information
Center (DIC) can be turned on and off through the Settings menu.
5. Use the DIC controls on the right side of the steering wheel to scroll to the Tire Pressure screen under the
DIC info page.
6. Press and hold the SET/RESET button (check mark symbol) located in the center of the DIC controls.
7. The horn sounds twice to signal the receiver is in relearn mode and the TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE
message displays on the DIC screen.
8. Starting with left front tire, hold a tire sensor activation tool against the side wall of the tire, within 3
inches of the valve stem. Activate tool until a horn chirp sounds.
9. After horn chirp has sounded and the right turn signal has illuminated, proceed to the next 3 sensors in the
following order: right front, right rear and left rear.
10. After left rear sensor has been learned, a double horn chirp will sound, indicating all 4 sensor IDs have
been learned. Turn ignition switch to OFF position to exit Learn Mode.
1. Set the tire pressure of all wheels to pressure specified on the tire and loading information label.
2. Set the parking brake.
3. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN with the engine OFF.
4. Press the MENU button once on the Driver Information Center (DIC).
5. Press the up or down arrow button until the Tire Learn screen is displayed.
6. Press and hold the SET/CLR button to begin the sensor matching process.
7. The horn sounds twice to signal the receiver is in relearn mode and the TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE
message displays on the DIC screen.
8. Starting with left front tire, hold a tire sensor activation tool against the side wall of the tire, within 3
inches of the valve stem. Activate tool until a horn chirp sounds.
9. After horn chirp has sounded and the right turn signal has illuminated, proceed to the next 3 sensors in the
following order: right front, right rear and left rear.
10. After left rear sensor has been learned, a double horn chirp will sound, indicating all 4 sensor IDs have
been learned. Turn ignition switch to OFF position to exit Learn Mode.
1. Set the tire pressure of all wheels to pressure specified on the tire and loading information label.
2. Set the parking brake.
3. Put the vehicle in ON/ RUN and place the vehicle in P (Park).
4. If the Driver Information Center (DIC) display is minimized, press the SELECT knob to maximize it.
5. Use the SELECT knob to scroll to the Tire Pressure display screen.
6. Press and hold the SELECT knob for five seconds to begin the sensor matching process. A message
displays confirming to begin the process.
7. Use the SELECT knob to select YES with the highlighted selection, and press the SELECT knob again to
confirm the selection.
8. The horn sounds twice to signal the receiver is in relearn mode and the TIRE LEARNING ACTIVE
message displays on the DIC screen.
9. Starting with left front tire, hold a tire sensor activation tool against the side wall of the tire, within 3
inches of the valve stem. Activate tool until a horn chirp sounds.
10. After horn chirp has sounded and the right turn signal has illuminated, proceed to the next 3 sensors in the
following order: right front, right rear and left rear.
11. After left rear sensor has been learned, a double horn chirp will sound, indicating all 4 sensor IDs have
been learned. Turn ignition switch to OFF position to exit Learn Mode.
NOTE: You have two minutes to match the first tire/wheel position, and five minutes
overall to match all four tire/wheel positions. If it takes longer, the matching
process stops and must be restarted.
1. Set the tire pressure of all wheels to pressure specified on the tire and loading information label.
2. Set the parking brake.
3. Turn the ignition to ON/RUN with the engine off.
4. Enter the learn sequence from the TPM Learn screen, located under the Customization Menu in the
instrument panel cluster. Press SRCE button until you see Customize Options and then press ENTER (left
pointing arrow). Move the thumbwheel up or down to scroll through the available options. Press ENTER
to select an item. To exit the current menu, or go back, use the thumbwheel to select BACK (left arrow)
at the top of the screen and then press ENTER.
5. Start with the driver side front tire. The driver side front indicator lamp also comes on to indicate that
corner's sensor is ready to be learned. Place a tire sensor activation tool against the tire sidewall, near the
valve stem. Then press the button to activate the TPMS sensor. A horn chirp confirms that the sensor
identification code has been matched to this tire and wheel position
6. After horn chirp has sounded and the right turn signal has illuminated, proceed to the next 3 sensors in the
following order: right front, right rear and left rear.
7. After the driver side rear TPMS sensor has been learned the horn chirps two times. The driver side rear
indicator lamp turns off and the TPMS sensor matching process is done. Turn the ignition switch to
LOCK/OFF.
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle on hoist. Drain transfer case. Disconnect speedometer cable. Remove skid plate
and crossmember supports. Disconnect drive shafts from transfer case.
2. On A/T equipped models, remove engine strut rod. Disconnect shift lever rod from shift rail link. Support
transfer case and remove transfer case-to-transmission adapter bolts. Move transfer case to rear until input
shaft clears adapter. Remove assembly from vehicle.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten bolts to specification. See appropriate TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS table.
Removal
1. Place transfer case shift lever in "4H" position. Disconnect negative battery cable. Raise vehicle and
remove skid plate. Drain transfer case. Mark front and rear output shaft yokes and drive shafts for
reassembly reference and remove shafts.
2. Disconnect speedometer cable and vacuum harness from transfer case. Remove shift lever from case.
Remove catalytic converter hanger bolts at converter. Remove transmission mount-to-crossmember bolts.
Raise transmission and transfer case assembly. Remove transmission mount bolts. Remove mount.
3. Lower complete assembly. Support transfer case and remove transmission-to-transfer case bolts. On A/T
equipped models, remove shift lever bracket from transfer case adapter to gain access for upper left
attaching bolt. Remove transfer case from transmission.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Always use a new gasket between the transfer case and adapter. Tighten
bolts to specification. See appropriate TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table.
Removal
1. Place transfer case in "4H". Raise vehicle. Drain lubricant from transfer case. Remove cotter pin from
shift lever swivel. Mark transfer case front and rear output shaft yokes and drive shafts for assembly
alignment reference and remove shafts.
2. Disconnect speedometer cable, indicator switch wires and speed sensor wire (if equipped). Disconnect
parking brake cable guide from pivot located on right frame rail. On A/T equipped models, remove
engine strut rod from transfer case (if equipped).
3. Remove skid plate. Place support under transfer case and remove transfer case-to-transmission adapter
bolts. Move transfer case assembly rearward until free of transmission output shaft and remove assembly.
Remove all gasket material from rear of transmission adapter housing.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Install new gasket. Tighten bolts to specification. See appropriate
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table.
Removal
1. On models with 117 MM 4-speed transmission, remove shift lever boot retainer bolts. Slide boot
assembly upward on shift lever and remove lever. To remove shift lever, push down on collar and turn
counterclockwise.
2. On all models, raise and support vehicle under frame. Drain fluid from transmission and transfer case (if
equipped). Disconnect speedometer cable at transmission.
3. Remove shift controls from transmission (if not previously removed). Remove parking brake lever,
controls, and back-up switch wire as needed. Disconnect drive shaft at transmission.
4. Remove transfer case (if equipped). See TRANSFER CASE . Disconnect exhaust pipes from exhaust
manifolds as needed. Remove frame crossmember and flywheel inspection plate.
5. On 117 MM 4-speed, remove top 2 transmission-to-clutch housing bolts and install guide pins. Guide
pins will support transmission and prevent damage to clutch disc.
6. On all models, remove all transmission-to-clutch housing attaching bolts. Slide transmission rearward
until input shaft is clear of clutch hub. Remove assembly from vehicle and remove guide pins if used.
NOTE: Support clutch release bearing and support assembly when removing
transmission main drive gear from flywheel housing. This will prevent release
bearing from falling out of flywheel housing.
Installation
1. Check that plugs located in rear of bellhousing below transmission mounting bolt holes are tight and not
damaged. Note location before removal. Install new plugs if plugs are damaged.
2. Apply a light coat of high-temperature grease to main drive gear splines. Place transmission in high gear.
Reverse removal procedures to complete installation. Tighten bolts to specification. See TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS (EXCEPT "M" & "S/T" SERIES) .
"M" SERIES
Removal
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Drain transmission. Remove strut rods (if equipped). Raise vehicle and
support. Disconnect shift linkage from transmission.
2. Mark drive shaft for reassembly reference and remove drive shaft. Disconnect speedometer cable and
wiring harness. Disconnect exhaust pipe from manifold.
3. Support transmission and remove brace retaining bolts. Note location of spacers. Remove crossmember.
Remove transmission retaining bolts. Support clutch release bearing and remove transmission.
Installation
1. Apply a light coat of high-temperature grease to main drive gear splines. Reverse removal procedures to
complete installation.
2. Braces must be installed with long holes at the transmission end. Tighten braces at clutch housing first
then at transmission. Tighten bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS ("M"
SERIES) .
Removal
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove shift lever boot screws and slide boot upward on shift lever.
Shift transmission into neutral and remove shift lever bolts at transmission. Remove shift lever.
2. Raise vehicle and mark drive shaft for reassembly reference. Remove drive shaft. Disconnect parking
brake lever and controls.
3. Remove transfer case (if equipped). See TRANSFER CASE . Disconnect exhaust pipe at manifold.
Disconnect speedometer cable and electrical connector at transmission.
4. Remove slave cylinder from transmission. Support transmission and remove catalytic converter hanger
and support braces. Remove necessary crossmembers.
5. Remove body mounting bolts on left side of body and loosen radiator support bolt. Raise cab on left side
as needed to gain access for transmission retaining bolts.
6. Support cab with wood block between frame and cab. Remove transmission-to-engine bolts on all
models. Remove transmission.
Installation
Apply a light coat of high-temperature grease to main drive gear splines. Place transmission in high gear.
Reverse removal procedures to complete installation. Tighten bolts to specification. See TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS ("S/T" SERIES) .
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
ALL EXCEPT "M" & "S/T" SERIES
"M" SERIES
"S/T" SERIES
APPLICATION
TRANSMISSION APPLICATION
Vehicle Application Transmission Model
Chevrolet
1985-86 Camaro ML3
1985-92 Camaro MB1
1982-87 Chevette MB4
1985-89 Astro MH3
1986-87 Astro ML3
1984-93 S Series ML3
GMC
1985-89 Safari Van MH3
1984-93 S Series ML3
Pontiac
1985-86 Firebird ML3
1986-92 Firebird MB1
1982-87 1000 MB4
IDENTIFICATION
Transmission may have an identification plate on side of case or may be ink stamped on bellhousing.
DESCRIPTION
The 5-speed 77 mm transmission is fully synchronized unit with blocker ring synchronizers and a sliding mesh
reverse gear. It has an aluminum case and extension housing. The shift mechanism does not require adjustment
and can be serviced independently of the transmission.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
See TROUBLE SHOOTING - BASIC PROCEDURES in GENERAL TROUBLE SHOOTING section.
Remove screws from transmission shift lever boot retainer. Slide boot up lever. Remove shift lever attaching
bolts at transmission and remove lever. To install shift lever, reverse removal procedure.
See appropriate TRANSMISSION REMOVAL & INSTALLATION - M/T article in MANUAL TRANS
SERVICE section.
TRANSMISSION DISASSEMBLY
1. Drain lubricant from transmission. Clean exterior of transmission. Using pin punch and hammer, remove
roll pin attaching offset lever to shift rail.
2. Remove extension housing-to-transmission case bolts. Remove housing and offset lever as an assembly.
3. Remove detent ball and spring from offset lever. Remove roll pin from extension housing or offset lever.
Remove plastic funnel, thrust bearing race and thrust bearing from rear of countershaft.
4. Remove transmission cover attaching bolts and lift off cover. Note location of 2 alignment-type dowel
bolts for reassembly.
5. Support end of 5th-reverse shift rail with a wood block. Drive roll pin from 5th gear shift fork.
6. Remove 5th gear synchronizer snap ring, shift fork, 5th gear synchronizer sleeve, blocking ring and 5th
speed drive gear from rear of countershaft. Remove snap ring from 5th speed driven gear on mainshaft.
7. Using a hammer and punch, place mating marks on bearing cap and case for reassembly reference.
Remove front bearing cap bolts and lift off bearing cap. Lift off front bearing race and end play shims
from bearing cap.
8. Rotate drive gear until flat surface faces countershaft. Remove input shaft with drive gear from case.
9. Remove reverse lever "C" clip and pivot bolt. See Fig. 1 . Remove mainshaft rear bearing race. Tilt
mainshaft assembly upward and remove from case.
Fig. 1: Removing Reverse Lever Retaining Clip & Bolt
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
10. Unhook overcenter link spring from front of case. Rotate 5th-reverse shift rail to disengage rail from
reverse lever assembly. Remove shift rail from rear of transmission case. See Fig. 2 .
Fig. 2: Removing 5th-Reverse Shift Rail
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
11. Remove reverse lever and fork assembly from transmission case. Using hammer and punch, drive roll pin
from forward end of reverse idler shaft. Remove reverse idler shaft, "O" ring and gear from transmission
case.
12. Remove rear countershaft snap ring and spacer. Insert brass drift through input shaft opening in front of
case. Using an arbor press, press countershaft rearward to remove rear countershaft bearing.
13. Move countershaft assembly rearward. Tilt countershaft upward and remove from case. Remove
countershaft front thrust washer and rear bearing spacer. Press countershaft front bearing from case.
Fig. 3: Exploded View of 77mm 5-Speed Transmission
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Remove thrust bearing washer from front end of mainshaft. Scribe reference mark on 3rd-4th
synchronizer hub and sleeve for reassembly.
2. Press 3rd-4th synchronizer blocking ring, sleeve, hub and 3rd gear as an assembly from shaft. Remove
snap ring, tabbed thrust washer and 2nd gear from mainshaft. Press 5th gear off of shaft.
3. Remove 1st gear thrust washer, thrust washer locating roll pin, 1st gear and synchronizer ring from shaft.
Scribe reference mark on 1st-2nd synchronizer hub and sleeve for reassembly.
4. Remove synchronizer spring and keys from 1st-reverse sliding gear. Remove gear from mainshaft hub.
Remove anti-rattle spring and ball from hub.
NOTE: DO NOT remove the 1st-2nd-reverse hub from shaft. Hub and shaft are
assembled and machined as a matched set. Reassembly
5. Coat mainshaft and gear bores with transmission lubricant. Install anti-rattle spring and ball in hub. Slide
1st-2nd synchronizer sleeve on mainshaft hub, aligning marks made at disassembly.
6. Install 1st-2nd synchronizer keys and springs. Engage tang end of each spring in same synchronizer key
but position open end of springs opposite of each other. See Fig. 4 .
Fig. 4: Installing Synchronizer Springs
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
7. Install blocker ring and 2nd gear on mainshaft. Install tabbed thrust washer and 2nd gear retaining snap
ring on shaft. Ensure washer tab is properly seated in shaft notch.
8. Install blocker ring and 1st gear on shaft. Install 1st gear roll pin and then 1st gear thrust washer. Slide
rear bearing on shaft.
9. Press 5th gear on shaft using arbor press. Install snap ring on shaft. Install 3rd gear, 3rd-4th synchronizer
assembly and thrust bearing on shaft. Synchronizer hub offset must face forward.
SYNCHRONIZERS
NOTE: The synchronizer hubs and sliding sleeves are a selected assembly and should
be kept together as originally assembled. Keys and springs may be replaced if
worn or broken.
Disassembly & Reassembly
1. If relation of hub and sleeve are not already marked, mark for reassembly purposes. Push sliding sleeve
from hub. The keys will fall free and the springs may then be removed. See Fig. 5 .
2. To assemble synchronizers, place a blocker ring on side of the hub and sleeve. Install keys and retain with
a spring. Place a blocker ring on opposite side of hub and sleeve. Install remaining spring.
Disassembly
Remove bearing race, thrust bearing and roller bearings from cavity of drive gear. Press bearing from input
shaft. Clean all parts in solvent. Inspect gear teeth and drive shaft pilot for wear.
Reassembly
Pressing on inner race only, install bearing on input shaft. Coat roller bearings and drive gear bearing bore with
grease. Install roller bearings into bore of drive gear. Install thrust bearing and race in drive gear.
1. Pry oil seal out of extension housing, using a screwdriver or small chisel. Drive bushing out of housing
using Remover/Installer (J-8092 and J-23062-14).
2. Use same tool to install bushing. Coat outer diameter of new oil seal with sealant. Install new oil seal into
extension housing. Lubricate I.D. of seal with transmission lubricant.
TRANSMISSION COVER
Disassembly
1. Place selector arm plates and shift rail in Neutral (centered) position. Rotate shift rail until selector arm
disengages from selector arm plates and roll pin is accessible.
2. Remove selector arm roll pin using a pin punch and hammer. Remove shift rail, shift forks, selector arm
plates, selector arm, interlock plate and roll pin.
3. Remove shift cover-to-extension housing "O" ring seal. Remove Nylon inserts and selector arm plates
from shift forks. Note position of inserts and plates for reassembly reference.
Reassembly
1. Install Nylon inserts and selector arm plates in shift forks. If removed, install shift rail plug. Coat edges of
plug with sealant before installing.
2. Coat shift rail and rail bores with lightweight grease and insert shift rail in cover. Install rail until flush
with inside edge of cover.
3. Place 1st-2nd shift fork in cover with fork offset facing rear of cover and push shift rail through fork. The
1st-2nd shift fork is the larger of the 2 forks.
4. Position selector arm and "C" shaped interlock plate in cover and insert shift rail through arm. Widest part
of interlock plate must face away from cover. Selector arm roll pin must face downward and toward rear
of cover.
5. Position 3rd-4th shift fork in cover with fork offset facing rear of cover. The 3rd-4th shift fork selector
arm plate must be under 1st-2nd shift fork selector arm plate.
6. Push shift rail through 3rd-4th shift fork and into front bore in cover. Rotate shift rail until selector arm
plate at forward end of rail faces away from, but is parallel to cover.
7. Align roll pin holes in selector arm and shift rail. Install roll pin. Roll pin must be flush with surface of
selector arm to prevent pin from contacting selector arm plates during shifts.
8. Install a new shift cover to extension housing "O" ring seal. Coat "O" ring seal with transmission
lubricant.
Wash transmission inside and out using cleaning solvent. Inspect for cracks. Clean magnetic disc at bottom of
transmission case. Check front and rear faces of transmission case for burrs. If present, dress them off with a
fine mill file.
1. All drive gear bearing rollers should be inspected closely and replaced if they show wear. Inspect reverse
idler shaft at the same, replace if necessary. Replace all worn spacers.
2. Wash the front and rear bearings thoroughly in a cleaning solvent. Blow out bearings with compressed
air.
GEARS
Inspect all gears for excessive wear, chips or cracks. Replace gears that are worn or damaged. Check clutch
sleeves to ensure they slide freely on their hubs.
TRANSMISSION REASSEMBLY
1. Coat countershaft front bearing bore with Loctite 601. Install front countershaft bearing flush with facing
of case using an arbor press.
2. Coat countershaft tabbed thrust washer with grease and install washer so tab engages depression in case.
Tip transmission case on end. Install countershaft in front bearing bore.
3. Install countershaft rear bearing spacer. Coat countershaft rear bearing with grease. Install bearing using
Installer (J-29895) and Sleeve (J-33032). When correctly installed, bearing will extend .125" (3.0 mm)
beyond case surface.
4. Position reverse idler gear in case with shift lever groove facing rear of case. Install reverse idler shaft
from rear of case. Install roll pin in idler shaft.
5. Install assembled mainshaft in case. Install rear mainshaft bearing in case. Install drive gear in case.
Engage in 3rd-4th synchronizer sleeve and blocker ring.
6. Install front bearing race in front bearing cap. DO NOT install shims in front bearing cap at this time.
Temporarily install front bearing cap.
7. Install 5th gear-reverse shift rail in case. Engage with 5th gear-reverse shift lever. Rotate rail during
installation to simplify engagement with lever. Connect spring to front of case.
8. Position 5th gear shift fork on 5th gear synchronizer assembly. Install synchronizer on countershaft and
shift fork on shift rail. Make sure roll pin hole in shift fork and shift rail are aligned.
9. Support 5th gear shift rail and fork on a block of wood and install roll pin. Install thrust race against 5th
gear synchronizer hub and install snap ring.
10. Install thrust bearing against race on countershaft. Coat both bearing and race with petroleum jelly.
11. Install lipped thrust race over needle-type thrust bearing. Install plastic funnel into hole in end of
countershaft gear.
12. Temporarily install extension housing and attaching bolts. Turn transmission case on end. Mount a dial
indicator on extension housing with stem of indicator on end of mainshaft.
13. Rotate mainshaft and zero dial indicator. Pull upward on mainshaft until end play is removed and record
reading. Shaft bearings require a preload of .001-.005" (.03-.13 mm). To set preload, select a shim pack
measuring .001-.005" (.03-.13 mm) greater than recorded dial indicator reading.
14. Remove front bearing cap and front bearing race. Install necessary shims to obtain preload and reinstall
bearing race.
15. Apply a 1/8" bead of RTV sealant on case-to-front bearing cap mating surface. Install bearing cap
aligning marks made during disassembly. Tighten bolts to specification.
16. Remove extension housing. Move shift forks on transmission cover and synchronizer sleeves inside
transmission to the neutral position. Apply a 1/8" bead of RTV sealant on cover mating surface of
transmission.
17. Lower cover onto case while aligning shift forks and synchronizer sleeves. Center cover and install the 2
dowel bolts. Install and tighten remaining bolts.
NOTE: The offset lever-to-shift rail roll pin hole must be in the vertical position
after cover installation.
18. Apply a 1/8" bead of RTV sealant on extension housing-to-transmission case mating surface. Install
extension housing over mainshaft and shift rail to a position where shift rail just enters shift cover
opening.
19. Install detent spring into offset lever and place steel ball in neutral guide plate detent. Position detent
lever on steel ball. Apply pressure on offset lever and at the same time seat extension housing against
transmission case.
20. Install and tighten extension housing bolts. Align and install roll pin in offset lever and shift rail. Fill
transmission to proper level with recommended lubricant.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Crossmember-to-Frame Bolts 35 (50)
Extension-Housing-to-Case Bolts 25 (30)
Fill Plug 20 (27)
Front Bearing Cap-to-Case 15 (20)
Reverse Pivot Bolt 20 (27)
Shift Cover-to-Case Bolts 10 (13)
Trans.-to-Engine Bolts 55 (75)
Trans. Mount-to-Trans. Bolts 35 (50)
Trans. Mount-to-Crossmember Bolts 35 (50)
TRANSMISSION SERVICING - M/T
LUBRICATION
SERVICE INTERVALS
Transmission
NOTE: There are 2 Light Duty truck emission control standards classifications: Light
Duty and Heavy Duty. Light Duty refers to vehicles up to 8500 lbs. (GVW); Heavy
Duty refers to vehicles over 8500 lbs. (GVW).
On "S" models with 4-speed transmission, change transmission fluid after the first 7500 miles and at 30,000
mile intervals thereafter. On all other Light Duty vehicles, check transmission fluid every 12 months or 7500
miles. On Heavy Duty vehicles, check fluid level every 12 months or 6000 miles. Periodic draining and refilling
is not required.
Transfer Case
Check transfer case lubricant at every oil change or every 12 months. Under severe conditions check more
frequently.
Transmission
Check lubricant level at transmission filler plug hole. Lubricant should be level with bottom of hole. Add as
needed.
Transfer Case
Remove filler plug. Check oil level. If level is not up to filler plug opening, add lubricant until it is.
RECOMMENDED FLUID
Transmission
The 77mm 5-speed and 89mm 4-speed overdrive use Dexron II ATF. The 117mm 4-speed uses API GL5 SAE
80W90 gear lubricant. General Motors recommends the use of Manual Transmission Fluid 1052931 in the
85mm 4-speed and 85mm 5-speeds.
Transfer Case
NOTE: Capacities listed in the following chart are approximations only. Correct fluid
level should be determined by level at filler plug hole, rather than by amount
added.
ADJUSTMENTS
NOTE: The 4-speed 117mm transmission has no shift rods. The shift lever mounts
directly to the top of the transmission, and is therefore not adjustable.
SHIFT LINKAGE
1. Remove shift rods from transmission. Place First and Reverse gear selector lever on transmission in
Reverse position. Move second and third transmission shift lever to forward detent, then back one.
2. Place column shifter in Reverse position. Turn ignition switch to "LOCK" position. Move column shifter
to Neutral position and put a 1/4" gauge pin through holes in shift levers at base of steering column.
3. Loosen slide swivel on First and Reverse rod and place transmission shift lever in First and Reverse. Hold
tightly in place and tighten swivel adjusting bolt. Install second and third shift rod.
4. Unlock steering wheel and remove gauge pin. Lubricate all rod and swivel connections.
1. Disconnect all shift rods from transmission shift levers. With shift control lever in Neutral position, insert
a 1/4" diameter pin through alignment holes in shifter assembly.
2. Align both shift levers on the transmission in the forward detent, then back one detent. Loosen lock nuts
on shift swivel ends and align rod ends with shift lever holes.
3. Install shift rods in levers, tighten lock nuts and install lock pins. Remove alignment pin and check for
proper linkage operation.
1. Loosen all shift rod adjustment nuts at transmission shift levers. Move shift control lever to Neutral
position. Move all 3 transmission shift levers into Neutral.
2. Put a 1/4" gauge pin through control levers at base of shifter assembly. Hold shift rods forward tightly in
their swivels and tighten adjustment nuts in that position.
3. Remove gauge pin. Lubricate all swivel joints and shift control.
The PCV valve is held closed by spring pressure when engine is not running. This prevents hydrocarbon fumes
from collecting in the intake manifold, a condition which could result in hard starting.
During engine operation, manifold vacuum pulls the valve open against spring pressure, permitting crankcase
fumes to enter the intake manifold. Should the engine backfire, the PCV valve will close to prevent ignition of
fumes in crankcase.
During certain engine operations, more blow-by is created than the PCV valve can handle. Excess blow-by is
directed to the air cleaner and carburetor or Throttle Body through a breather assembly in the valve cover. It is
then burned in the combustion chamber. The breather assembly acts as a separator to keep oil from being drawn
into air cleaner during this operation.
MAINTENANCE
An engine may idle slow or rough due to clogged PCV valve or ventilation system. Never adjust fuel injection
system without first checking valve and system. If PCV valve or system is clogged, all crankcase ventilation
will stop and could result in serious engine damage.
It is recommended the crankcase ventilation system be checked more frequently if vehicle is operated under
severe conditions (extreme dust, prolonged idling, trailer hauling or short trips in cold weather).
PCV VALVE
Check PCV valve every 15,000 miles and replace it every 30,000 miles on Light Duty Emission models (up to
8500 lbs. GVW). Check PCV valve every 12,000 miles and replace it every 24,000 miles on Heavy Duty
Emission models (over 8500 lbs. GVW). Valve is located on valve cover.
FILTER ELEMENT
Replace filter element every 30,000 miles on Light Duty Emission models and every 24,000 miles on Heavy
Duty Emission models. Filter is located in air cleaner housing.
COMPONENT TESTING
1. Start engine and allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Ensure engine is idling at normal curb
idle. Remove PCV valve from grommet. If valve is okay, hissing will be heard as air passes through it.
Strong vacuum should be felt over valve inlet.
2. With finger over valve inlet, check for vacuum leaks at all connections. Reinstall PCV valve and remove
crankcase air inlet hose at air cleaner.
3. Loosely hold piece of stiff paper over opening at end of inlet hose. After about a minute, paper should be
sucked against hose opening with noticeable force. Remove and shake PCV valve. Ensure a metallic
clicking noise can be heard, indicating valve is free.
4. If system passes both engine running and stopped tests, it is functioning properly. If it has failed either
test, replace defective components and retest. If it does not pass on second try, clean system.
STEERING GEAR - POWER
DESCRIPTION
Steering gear is a variable ratio, recirculating ball type. Control valves are located inside steering gear housing.
A 4-character build date is stamped in the cover. If an "X" appears after the build date, the steering housing is
equipped with the interim designed pitman shaft seal assembly. See Fig. 1 .
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Refer to TROUBLE SHOOTING - BASIC PROCEDURES article in the GENERAL TROUBLE
SHOOTING section.
LUBRICATION
See POWER STEERING GENERAL SERVICING article in the STEERING section.
TESTING
See POWER STEERING GENERAL SERVICING article in the STEERING section.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
ADJUSTMENTS
THRUST BEARING PRELOAD
1. Remove steering gear from vehicle. See STEERING GEAR under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION in
this article. Rotate gear lock-to-lock several times to drain fluid. Loosen adjuster plug lock nut. Using
spanner wrench, turn adjuster plug clockwise until plug is seated in housing. Torque will be about 20 ft.
lbs. (27 N.m).
2. Index mark housing opposite one hole in adjuster plug. See Fig. 2 . Measure back about 1/2"
counterclockwise from mark. Mark housing. Rotate plug counterclockwise until hole in adjuster aligns
with second mark.
3. Tighten lock nut. Ensure adjuster plug remains in position. Attach INCH lb. torque wrench to end of stub
shaft. Turn stub shaft to right stop, then back 1/4 turn.
4. Using torque wrench, measure rotational torque required to turn shaft. Reading should be taken with
handle of torque wrench near vertical while turning it counterclockwise at an even rate. Reading should
be between 4-10 INCH lbs. (.4-1.1 N.m). If not, repeat procedure.
OVER-CENTER PRELOAD
1. Ensure steering gear is centered. Loosen pitman shaft adjuster screw lock nut. Tighten pitman shaft lash
adjuster screw. Retighten lock nut. Measure gear over-center torque by rotating torque wrench attached to
stub shaft in a 90 degree arc 45 degrees on each side of center. Record highest reading.
2. Continue adjustment until over-center reading is within specification. See LASH ADJUSTMENT
PRELOAD . Ensure lock nut is tight when reading is obtained. See Fig. 3 .
Removal
1. Center steering gear. If necessary for clearance, remove steering column. Raise and support vehicle. Place
drain pan under steering gear assembly. Center steering gear. Disconnect hydraulic hoses from gear. Cap
ends. Disconnect steering linkage from pitman arm.
2. Remove pitman arm from gear. Remove flexible coupling clamp bolt. Remove steering gear-to-frame
bolts. Remove gear from flexible coupling and frame.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Fill pump reservoir. Bleed air from system. See the POWER
STEERING GENERAL SERVICING article in the STEERING section.
OVERHAUL
STEERING GEAR
Disassembly
1. Cap all openings in gear. Clean gear exterior completely. Mount gear in vise so that pitman shaft points
downward. Rotate housing end plug retainer ring until one end of plug is over hole in housing.
2. Force end of ring from groove in housing. Remove ring. Rotate stub shaft counterclockwise to force
housing end plug from housing. Rotate stub shaft clockwise 1/2 turn to draw rack piston inward.
CAUTION: DO NOT rotate stub shaft more than it is necessary to remove plug,
as ball bearings will fall out of worm and rack piston assembly.
3. Remove rack piston end plug. Remove lock nut from pitman shaft adjuster. Remove pitman shaft cover.
Remove and discard "O" ring or gasket from cover. Turn stub shaft until pitman shaft teeth are centered
in housing.
4. Using a soft-faced hammer, tap end of pitman shaft to free shaft from housing. Remove pitman shaft.
Remove adjuster plug lock nut. Using a spanner wrench, remove adjuster plug.
5. Insert Rack Piston Arbor (J-21552) into end of rack piston assembly until arbor just contacts worm shaft.
Threaded arbor will keep recirculating balls from falling out of rack piston. Turn stub shaft
counterclockwise to force rack piston onto arbor. Remove rack piston and arbor as an assembly.
6. Take care to keep arbor fully inserted so recirculating balls will not fall out. Remove stub shaft and
control valve assembly from housing. Remove worm, wormshaft lower thrust bearing, and races from
housing.
Inspection
1. Clean all internal parts in solvent and dry with compressed air. Avoid wiping valve parts with cloth. Lint
may cause binding of mechanism.
2. DO NOT steam clean hydraulic parts. If further disassembly is required, see appropriate OVERHAUL
sub-heading in this article.
Reassembly
1. Lubricate all parts with power steering fluid before reassembly. Install lower thrust bearing and races on
worm shaft. See Fig. 1 .
NOTE: If conical thrust races are used, ensure tapered surfaces are parallel to
each other and that cupped sides face toward stub shaft.
2. Place worm shaft in valve body. Install "O" ring in valve body. Align notch in valve body with pin in
worm shaft. Install valve body and worm assembly into housing. Installation is correct when fluid return
port in housing is fully visible.
3. Place seal protector over stub shaft. Using new "O" ring, install adjuster plug until it seats against valve
body.
4. Remove seal protector from housing. Loosely install adjuster plug lock nut. Insert rack piston (with arbor
to retain recirculating balls) into housing. Align worm and rack piston. Turn stub shaft clockwise to
engage worm. Maintain pressure on arbor until worm is fully engaged.
5. Rotate stub shaft clockwise to align middle rack groove in rack piston with center of pitman shaft roller
bearing. Remove arbor. Install a new pitman shaft cover seal.
6. Thread pitman shaft cover onto adjuster screw until bottoms. Back off 1/2 turn. Install pitman shaft so
that center gear tooth meshes with center groove in rack piston. Install cover attaching bolts.
7. Install adjuster lock nut halfway onto pitman shaft. Install piston and plug in rack piston. Install housing
end plug "O" ring, end plug and retainer ring. Adjust worm bearing preload and over-center preload.
Refer to the appropriate ADJUSTMENT procedure in this article.
ADJUSTER PLUG
Disassembly
1. Using a screwdriver, carefully remove thrust bearing retainer. Discard retainer. Remove thrust bearing
spacer, thrust bearing and bearing races. Remove and discard adjuster plug "O" ring.
2. Remove snap ring. Remove and discard dust seal. Pry oil seal from adjuster plug and discard seal. Inspect
bearing. By pressing out from spacer end, remove bearing (if necessary). See Fig. 1 .
Inspection
Inspect thrust bearing for cracks. Check rollers for pitting, scoring, or cracking. Check thrust races and spacer
for damage. Replace parts as necessary.
Reassembly
1. Press bearing into adjuster plug (identification end facing arbor) until bearing bottoms in bore. Install oil
seal with spring in seal facing adjuster plug. Install dust seal into adjuster plug.
2. Rubber face of dust seal must face away from plug. Install snap ring. Install adjuster plug "O" ring.
Assemble thrust bearing, thrust bearing race, and thrust bearing spacer on adjuster plug. Flanges of both
thrust washers face away from plug. Install spacer. Using a punch, tap new retainer into position.
Disassembly
If installed, remove Rack Piston Arbor (J-21552) from rack piston. If arbor was not used, remove worm shaft,
lower thrust bearing and bearing races from rack piston. Remove piston ring and back-up "O" ring from rack
piston. Remove ball guide clamp and ball guide. Remove all recirculating balls from rack piston.
Inspection
1. Clean and dry all parts. Inspect worm shaft and rack piston grooves for scoring. Inspect ball bearings for
damage. If any ball bearings are damaged, replace entire set. Check ball guides for pinching of ends.
2. Inspect lower thrust bearing races for cracking, scoring, or pitting. If either part is damaged, replace
wormshaft and rack piston as an assembly. Inspect rack piston teeth for chips, cracks, dents or scoring.
Reassembly
1. Lubricate with power steering fluid and carefully install new Teflon seal and "O" ring onto rack piston.
Install worm shaft into rack piston until worm shaft touches piston shoulder. While turning worm shaft
counterclockwise, insert ball bearings into rack piston.
NOTE: See RACK PISTON & WORM ASSEMBLY BALL BEARINGS for number of
balls to be installed. ENSURE light and dark colored balls are installed
alternately, as Black balls are .0005" (.013 mm) smaller than Silver balls.
2. Install correct number of balls in ball guide, alternating ball colors. Bearings in guide must be in sequence
with bearings in rack piston. Hold balls in place with chassis lubricant. Install return ball guide assembly
into position.
3. Install clamp. Tighten cap screws. See Fig. 4 . Insert Rack Piston Arbor (J-21552) into rack piston until it
contacts worm shaft. Maintain pressure on arbor, and back worm out of rack piston. DO NOT allow ball
bearings to drop out.
ROTARY VALVE
Disassembly
1. Remove and discard stub shaft cap "O" ring. Lightly tap end of stub shaft against wood block until shaft
cap is free of valve body. Pull stub shaft outward until drive pin hole is visible. See Fig. 5 .
CAUTION: DO NOT pull shaft more than 1/4" (6 mm) or spool valve may become
cocked in valve body.
Fig. 5: Pulling Shaft from Valve Assembly
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
2. Disengage drive pin. Remove stub shaft from valve body and spool assembly with a twisting motion. If
binding occurs, realign valve.
3. Remove spool valve from valve body with twisting motion. Remove and discard all "O" rings and Teflon
rings.
Inspection
1. Wash all parts in solvent and blow dry. Check for leaks between stub shaft and torsion bar. Check for
nicks and scores on stub shaft. Sand down with Crocus cloth if possible. Check notch valve body skirt for
wear.
2. Check spool valve fit in valve body. With "O" ring removed, lubricate spool valve with power steering
fluid. Rotate spool valve in valve body. If valve does not rotate freely, replace complete valve.
3. Valve assembly is balanced during assembly. If replacing any parts other than rings or seals, replace
complete assembly.
Reassembly
1. Lubricate valve body components with power steering fluid. Install new "O" rings in seal grooves. Install
new Teflon rings over "O" rings. Take care not to damage seal rings during installation.
NOTE: Teflon seal rings may appear to be distorted after installation. However,
heat of operation will straighten them.
2. Lubricate replacement spool valve damper "O" ring with petroleum jelly and install on spool valve.
Carefully insert spool valve into valve body.
3. Push spool valve through valve body until locating pin hole is visible at opposite end of valve body, and
spool valve is flush with notched end of valve. Install stub shaft into spool valve and valve body.
4. Align stub shaft locating pin with spool valve locating hole. Align notch in stub shaft cap with pin in
valve body. Press stub shaft and spool valve into valve body. Install stub shaft cap "O" ring into valve
body.
CAUTION: Before installing assembled valve body into gear housing, ensure valve
body stub shaft locating pin is fully engaged in stub shaft cap notch. DO
NOT allow stub shaft to disengage from valve body pin.
HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Disassembly
1. Remove pitman shaft seal snap ring. Remove seals and washers. See Fig. 1 . Press pitman shaft bearing
out of housing from lower end.
2. If hose connector seat is being replaced, tap the seat with a 5/16" x 18 thread tap. Thread connector seats
ONLY 2-3 threads. Install bolt with flat washer and nut into seat. Hold bolt while tightening nut to extract
seat.
Inspection
1. If housing bore is severely worn, scored or pitted, replace housing. Minor scratches may be removed with
crocus cloth.
2. Inspect all retaining ring, bearing and seal surfaces in housing. If any surface is worn or damaged, replace
housing.
Reassembly
1. Install pitman shaft bearing in steering housing using Handle (J-8092) and Adapter (J-22407). Position
bearing so identification marks face away from tool. Press in bearing until tool bottoms against housing.
DO NOT bottom bearing in housing.
2. Install seals with lips facing toward housing bore. Install snap ring.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Adjuster Plug Lock Nut 85 (115)
Gear Housing-to-Frame Bolts 100 (136)
Pitman Arm Attaching Nut 180 (244)
Pitman Shaft Adjuster Lock Nut 28 (38)
Rack Piston End Plug 50 (68)
Side Cover Bolts 40 (54)
POWER STEERING GENERAL SERVICING
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Refer to TROUBLE SHOOTING - BASIC PROCEDURES article in the GENERAL TROUBLE SHOOTING
section.
TESTING
IDLER ARM - ASTRO & SAFARI
Replace idler arm assembly if an up and down force of 25 ft. lbs. (110 N.m), applied at relay rod end of idler
arm, produces a lash of more than 1/8" (3 mm) for a total of 1/4" (6 mm) in straight-ahead position.
PREPARATION
1. With belt tension correct, disconnect power steering pump pressure hose. Keep hose end raised to prevent
fluid loss. Connect Pressure Gauge (J-5176-D) hose to power steering pump fitting. Connect other hose
from valve side of tester to steering gear inlet.
2. Open valve. Run engine until fluid reaches normal operating temperature of 150-170°F (65-77°C). Check
fluid level. Add fluid (if necessary).
PRESSURE TEST
1. Note pressure reading with valve open and engine idling. Pressure should be 80-125 psi (6-9 kg/cm2 ). If
pressure is above 200 psi (14 kg/cm2 ), check hoses for restrictions and poppet valve for proper assembly.
2. Close gate valve completely and reopen 3 times. Record highest reading each time. DO NOT close valve
for more than 5 seconds. Reading should be within specification. On R/V, G and P models, see Fig. 1 .
On all other models, see PRESSURE TEST SPECIFICATIONS table.
3. If readings are within specification and within 50 psi (4 kg/cm2 ) of each other, pump is operating
properly. On R/V, G and P models, see Fig. 1 . On all other models, see PRESSURE TEST
SPECIFICATIONS table.
4. If pressures are high, but do not repeat within 50 psi (4 kg/cm2 ), flow control valve in pump is sticking.
Remove flow control valve. Clean or replace flow control valve.
5. If pressure is constant but more than 100 psi (7 kg/cm2 ) less than specification, clean or replace flow
control valve in pump. If pressures are still low, replace pump.
6. If pump is within specification, open valve and turn steering wheel from right to left stops. Record
pressure. DO NOT hold wheel against stops more than 5 seconds.
7. Pressure should be within specification. On R/V, G and P models, see Fig. 1 . On all other models, see
PRESSURE TEST SPECIFICATIONS table. If pressure is low, steering gear is leaking internally and
must be repaired.
Fig. 1: Pump Pressure Specifications (R/V, G & P Models)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
LUBRICATION
SERVICE INTERVALS
Check fluid with engine stopped and fluid hot or cold. Fluid level must be at "FULL-HOT" or "FULL-COLD"
mark on dipstick. On models with remote reservoir, fluid level must be .5-1.0" from top of reservoir with
wheels turned fully to left.
RECOMMENDED FLUID
Application Part No. or Type
All Models P1050017
1. Fill reservoir to correct level. Let oil settle for 2 minutes. Start engine and run for 4-5 seconds. Check
reservoir. Add oil if necessary. Repeat procedure until level in reservoir remains constant.
2. Raise vehicle with both front wheels off ground. Start engine and increase engine speed to 1500 RPM.
Turn wheels right and left, lightly contacting stops. Check fluid level. Add fluid (if necessary).
3. Lower vehicle. Turn wheels right and left. Check fluid level. Add fluid (if necessary). If oil is foamy,
proceed to step 4).
4. Turn off engine and let vehicle sit for a few minutes. Repeat steps 1) through 3) with wheels off ground.
Check fluid for air in system. If fluid level is low and air is apparent, repeat complete procedure.
V-Belt
4.8L 160 90
All Others 146 67
(1) Serpentine belts are equipped with self-tensioner and no adjustment is required.
TEST SPECIFICATIONS
PRESSURE TEST SPECIFICATIONS
Application psi (kg/cm2 ) @ Idle Relief psi (kg/cm2 )
Astro & Safari 80-125 (6-9) 1250-1350 (87-95)
"C", "K" & "S" Models 80-125 (6-9) 1100-1200 (77-84)
POWER STEERING PUMP
DESCRIPTION
Two different types of Saginaw vane-type power steering pumps are used. The Model P pump is mounted
inside the reservoir. The Model TC pump is mounted below the reservoir. On both models, the vanes are driven
by a rotor and moves fluid from the intake to the pressure cavities of pump ring.
Centrifugal force moves vanes against inside surface of pump ring to pick up residual oil. As more oil is picked
up, it is forced into cavities of thrust plate, into 2 cross-over holes in pump ring and pressure plate and into a
high pressure area between pressure plate and housing end plate.
Filling the high pressure area causes oil to flow under the vanes in slots of the rotor. This forces vanes to follow
inside oval surface of pump ring. As vanes rotate to small area of pump ring, oil is forced out from between
vanes.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Refer to TROUBLE SHOOTING - BASIC PROCEDURES article in the GENERAL TROUBLE
SHOOTING section.
1. Loosen pump adjusting bolt (or nut) and pump mounting bolts. Remove pump drive belt. Disconnect
pressure and return hoses from pump. Cap ends to prevent loss of fluid or contamination.
2. Using Puller (J-29785-A), remove pulley from shaft. Remove bracket-to-engine bolts. Remove pump and
mounting bracket as an assembly. To install, reverse removal procedure. Use Pulley Installer (J-25033-B)
to install pulley. Fill and bleed system. See POWER STEERING GENERAL SERVICING article in
the STEERING section.
Fig. 1: Exploded View of Model P Pump Assembly
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 2: Exploded View of Model TC Pump Assembly
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
OVERHAUL
Disassembly (Model P)
1. Drain pump reservoir. Clean exterior of unit. Using Puller (J-29785-A) remove pulley from shaft if not
previously removed.
2. Remove pressure line union and "O" ring. Remove reservoir retaining bolts. Remove reservoir and "O"
rings from housing.
3. Using punch and screwdriver, remove end plate retaining ring. Remove end plate and pressure plate
spring. See Fig. 1 .
4. Remove "O" ring, flow control valve and spring. Using soft-faced hammer, tap end of drive shaft to
loosen pressure plate. Remove pressure plate, pump ring, vanes, retaining ring, rotor, and thrust plate
assembly from body.
5. Remove drive shaft. Using a screwdriver, pry drive shaft oil seal from housing. Remove dowel pins and
seals.
1. Clean all pump components in solvent. Blow dry. Inspect flow control valve assembly for wear, scoring,
burrs or other damage. Inspect seal bore for burrs, nicks, or score marks.
2. Inspect machined surfaces of body for scratches or burrs. Check "O" ring mating surfaces. Inspect drive
shaft for excessive wear.
3. Inspect pump ring for roughness. Check thrust plate and pressure plate for scoring and wear. Ensure
vanes slide freely but fit snugly into slots. If vanes are loose in slots, replace rotor and/or vanes.
Reassembly
1. Lubricate all "O" rings, seals, pump ring, rotor and vanes with power steering fluid. Using Seal Installer
(J-7728), install new shaft seal.
2. Install dowel pins and all "O" rings. Install drive shaft and thrust plate. Install rotor over shaft splines with
counterbore toward drive shaft end of housing.
3. Install new rotor retaining ring. Ensure ring is seated in groove. Install vanes with rounded edges toward
pump ring. Install pump ring and pressure plate. Install "O" ring, flow control valve and spring.
4. Install pressure plate spring, end plate and retaining ring. Install seals and reservoir. Install union, "O"
ring and reservoir retaining bolts.
1. Clamp front hub in soft-jawed vise. Pry tab outward and remove reservoir clips (if equipped). See Fig. 2 .
Remove reservoir or return tube and "O" ring. Using Puller (J-29785-A) remove pulley from shaft if not
previously removed.
2. Remove fitting, "O" ring, flow control valve and spring. Note location of beveled side of snap ring.
Remove snap ring, drive shaft and bearing. See Fig. 2 . Using screwdriver, remove drive shaft seal from
housing. Remove retaining ring by inserting punch into access hole and disengage retaining ring.
3. Using a brass drift, tap on thrust plate and remove. Remove "O" ring, pump ring, rotor and vanes.
Remove dowel pins, pressure plate, "O" ring and pressure plate spring. Remove "O" ring, dowel pin and
sleeve.
1. Clean all pump components in solvent. Blow dry. Inspect flow control valve assembly for wear, scoring,
burrs or other damage. Inspect seal bore for burrs, nicks, or score marks.
2. Inspect machined surfaces of body for scratches or burrs. Check "O" ring mating surfaces. Inspect drive
shaft for wear.
3. Inspect pump ring for roughness. Check thrust plate and pressure plate for scoring and wear. Ensure
vanes slide freely but fit snugly into slots. If vanes are loose in slots, replace rotor and/or vanes.
Reassembly
1. Lubricate all "O" rings, seals, pump ring, rotor and vanes with power steering fluid.
2. Install sleeve and dowel pin. Install pressure plate spring and "O" ring. Install pressure plate with dowel
pin hole aligned with that of the housing. Install dowel pins.
3. Install vanes with rounded edges toward pump ring. Install rotor with counterbore toward drive shaft end
of housing. Install pump ring with identification marks facing toward thrust plate end of housing. Install
"O" ring and thrust plate.
CAUTION: Pump ring must be installed with identification marks facing toward
thrust plate end of housing. Thrust plate must be installed so
indentations in thrust plate align with bolt holes of housing and
thrust plate engages with pump ring dowel pins.
4. Place pump assembly in arbor press. Compress thrust plate and install retaining ring so opening of ring is
centered with bolt hole of housing.
5. Using a socket, install drive shaft seal in housing until seal bottoms. Install bearing on drive shaft. Install
drive shaft in housing. Rotate drive shaft during installation to align with rotor serrations.
6. Install snap ring. Ensure beveled edge properly seats. Install spring, flow control valve and "O" rings.
Install return tube or reservoir with new "O" ring.
RIDING HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
DESCRIPTION
Ensure tires are correctly inflated, cargo compartment is empty and fuel tank is full. Bounce vehicle several
times to noralize ride height.
Most vehicles provide front wheel alignment specifications which allow camber and caster adjustment for a
large range of ride heights. Ride height for light trucks is listed as "RIDE HGT." in the alignment tables. Ride
height measurement points are shown. See Fig. 1 -Fig. 4
S/T Series
"Z" Heights (S Series) 73.0 +/- 6.0
"Z" Heights (T Series) 122.0 +/- 6.0
"D" Heights 170/0 +/- 6.0
Astro/Safari
"Z" Heights 80.0 +/- 6.0
"D" Heights (1988) 150.0 +/- 15
"D" Heights () 135.0 +/- 6.0
(1) Information not available.
Fig. 1: Measuring Points ("G", "P", "R" & "V" Series)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 2: Measuring Points ("S" Series, Astro & Safari)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 4: Dash Gauges & Warning Lights (1991-92 Syclone & Typhoon)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
SERVICE ENGINE SOON WARNING LIGHT
Light will illuminate briefly as a system check when ignition is in ON position and will go out after the engine
is started. Illumination during vehicle operation indicates service to the computerized fuel, ignition or emission
control system is required.
Gauge indicates engine oil pressure in pounds per square inch. Oil pressure, not the amount of oil in the engine
is indicated; however, oil level may affect oil pressure. Oil pressure varies with engine speed, oil viscosity or
outside temperature. While engine is warming up, oil pressure will be higher than at normal operating
temperature. If gauge registers in the low pressure zone, stop immediately and check the oil level.
CAUTION: DO NOT operate vehicle if oil pressure gauge continues to register in the
low pressure zone.
Warning light indicates that oil is not going through the engine quickly enough to keep it properly lubricated
and cool. Under normal operating conditions, the light will come on as a test when ignition is in ON position
and go out when the engine is started. If this light illuminates during normal vehicle operation, oil level should
be checked immediately.
Warning light indicates 2 things: either parking brake is engaged or there is a problem with the brake system.
Light should come on briefly when ignition switch is turned to ON position, and parking brake is released. If
light stays on, immediate servicing is needed.
Light is shown as a battery symbol on the instrument cluster. It will illuminate briefly when ignition is turned to
ON or START position, and should go out when the engine starts and alternator begins to charge. If light stays
on or comes on when the engine is running, the battery is not being charged and the electrical system needs
service.
VOLTMETER
Gauge shows battery's state of charge in DC volts when engine is not running but ignition is in ON position.
When engine is running, gauge shows the condition of the charging system. Readings between low and high
warning zones indicate normal operating range. Readings in either warning zone indicate a problem in the
electrical system.
Gauge shows engine coolant temperature in degrees. On the standard cluster, overheated engine coolant is
indicated if gauge pointer rises into the red area (260°F). On digital clusters, a box around the temperature
symbol will flash. If warning condition exists, stop vehicle, let engine cool and check coolant level.
Light indicates engine coolant has overheated. Vehicle should be stopped and engine cooled as soon as possible.
Let engine cool and check the coolant level.
Light indicates a possible problem with the electric choke heater circuit. If this light comes on while driving,
stop vehicle and identify the problem.
Light should illuminate briefly when ignition is turned on. If light does not illuminate when ignition is turned
on, remains illuminated, or comes on while driving, have rear wheel anti-lock brake system serviced
immediately. Brake system will continue to function normally unless BRAKE warning light is also illuminated.
Light should illuminate briefly when engine is turned on. If light stays on or comes on when driving, check the
various gauges to see if a warning condition exists.
STARTER
DESCRIPTION
Enclosed housing starter has a solenoid pinion shaft (overrunning clutch) with entire mechanism enclosed
within housing. Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction (PMGR) starter has small permanent magnets mounted
inside the field frame. The magnets take place of current-carrying field coils mounted on iron pole pieces.
Internal gear reduction is achieved through planetary gear assembly.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: See the TROUBLE SHOOTING - BASIC PROCEDURES article in the GENERAL
TROUBLE SHOOTING section.
ON-VEHICLE TESTING
SOLENOID WINDING TESTS
Tests are performed with all leads disconnected from solenoid. Complete tests in minimum amount of time to
prevent solenoid from overheating.
Hold-In Winding
1. Connect an ammeter, voltmeter, carbon pile and battery into starter circuit. See Fig. 1. Using carbon pile,
decrease battery voltage to 10 volts.
2. Refer to SOLENOID HOLD-IN WINDING SPECIFICATIONS table for correct amperage reading.
Higher reading indicates winding is shorted or grounded. Lower reading indicates excessive resistance.
Pull-In Winding
Using the solenoid test connections as identified by the dashed lines, decrease battery voltage to 5 volts. See
Fig. 1. Refer to the SOLENOID PULL-IN WINDING SPECIFICATIONS table for correct amperage draw.
Higher reading indicates winding is shorted or grounded. Lower reading indicates excessive resistance.
1. Connect a tachometer, ammeter and voltmeter into start circuit. See Fig. 2. Using carbon pile, adjust
voltage to 10 volts and engage starter motor.
2. Read amperage draw and armature speed to ensure they are within specification. Refer to the STARTER
NO-LOAD SPECIFICATIONS table. If exact voltage cannot be obtained, raise voltage slightly higher.
RPM should be slightly higher. DO NOT apply excessive voltage, as too much voltage may cause
damage to armature.
3. Low free speed and high current draw indicates too much friction, shorted armature, or grounded
armature or fields. Failure to operate with high current draw indicates a direct ground in terminal or
fields, or frozen bearings.
4. Failure to operate with no current draw indicates an open field, open armature coils, broken brush springs,
worn brushes, or high commutator insulation.
5. If no-load speed is low and there is low current draw, suspect high internal resistance due to poor
connection, defective leads, or dirty commutator. A high free speed and high current draw usually
indicates shorted fields.
BENCH TESTING
ARMATURE
Test armature for shorted coils with a growler. Check for grounded coils using a self-powered test light. Place
one test lead on armature core or shaft, and other test lead on commutator. Light should not illuminate. If light
illuminates, armature is grounded and should be replaced.
FIELD COILS (ENCLOSED HOUSING)
1. Using self-powered test light, place one test lead on field coil terminal strap, and touch other test lead to
field coil brush lead (check series coils and shunt coils separately at appropriate terminals).
2. Light should illuminate. If light does not illuminate, coils are open. Check for grounds by placing one test
lead on field armature strap, and touch other lead to armature core or shaft. If light illuminates, one or
more coils are grounded.
3. On 5MT starter, coils cannot be replaced separately. The frame and field assembly must be replaced. On
10MT and 27MT a pole shoe spreader and pole shoe screwdriver can be used to replace a defective field
coil.
NOTE: Shunt coil ground lead must be disconnected and all field terminals insulated
from frame when making this test.
Replace brushes if worn to 1/2 original length, oil-soaked or pitted. Check brush spring tension and replace
springs if weak or distorted.
Pinion should turn freely in overrun direction and should not slip in drive direction. Check spring for correct
tension and drive collar for wear (these parts can be removed for replacement by forcing collar toward clutch
and removing lock ring from end of tube). Replace drive assembly if pinion teeth are worn, chipped, or cracked.
PINION CLEARANCE
1. Disconnect motor field coil connector and insulate it carefully. Connect a battery from solenoid switch
terminal to solenoid frame. Momentarily flash a jumper lead from motor terminal to solenoid frame.
2. This shifts pinion into cranking position. Push pinion back toward commutator end to eliminate slack.
Distance between pinion and pinion stop should be .010-.160" (.25-4.5 mm). Clearance is not adjustable.
If clearance is not to specification, check for proper assembly.
Fig. 3: Checking Pinion-to-Housing Clearance
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
NOTE: If shims are installed between starter and engine, note and record the
arrangement for installation reference.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Raise and support vehicle. Remove starter braces and shields (if
equipped). Disconnect electrical wiring from starter solenoid.
2. Remove starter mounting bolts. Remove shims and note arrangement for reassembly. Remove starter. To
install, reverse removal procedure. Ensure shims are installed in original location. Tighten bolts or nuts to
specifications. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS at end of article.
"T" SERIES
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Raise and support vehicle. Disconnect electrical wiring from starter
solenoid. Remove mounting bracket and wiring from brush end of starter. Remove skid plate. Remove 2
brake line-to-crossmember brackets.
2. Remove 6 crossmember bolts and remove crossmember. Remove transmission cooler line-to-flywheel
housing bracket. Remove brace rod to flywheel housing. Remove lower flywheel housing cover (if
necessary).
3. Remove starter bolts. Note location and number of shims for reassembly. Remove starter. To install,
reverse removal procedure. Tighten bolts and nuts to specifications.
"U" SERIES
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Raise and support vehicle. Remove nut from A/C bracket. Remove
engine bracket nut and bracket. Place drain pan under oil pan. Remove oil pressure sending unit. Remove
oil filter.
2. Disconnect electrical wiring from starter. Remove starter bolts. Note location and number of shims for
reassembly. Remove starter. To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten bolts and nuts to
specifications.
OVERHAUL
DISASSEMBLY & REASSEMBLY
Overhaul information is not available. Refer to the figures for disassembly and reassembly reference. See Fig. 4
and Fig. 5 .
CLEANING
Clean all parts with a clean cloth. DO NOT clean armature, field coils, or drive assembly in any type of grease
dissolving solvent as this will damage insulation and wash lubricant out of drive assembly.
STARTER SPECIFICATIONS
SOLENOID HOLD-IN WINDING SPECIFICATIONS
Part No. Amps Volts
1114247 15-17 10
1114520, 1114530 & 1114531 13-19 10
1114558 15-17 10
1114563 14-18 10
PMGR Solenoid 13-15 10
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
STARTER TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs (N.m)
2.5L 31 (43)
2.8L & 4.3L 30 (40)
All Others 28 (38)
Bracket-to Block Bolt 24 (32)
STARTER REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
NOTE: If shims are installed between starter and engine, note and record the
arrangement for installation reference.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Raise and support vehicle. Remove starter braces and shields (if
equipped). Disconnect electrical wiring from starter solenoid.
2. Remove starter mounting bolts. Remove shims and note arrangement for reassembly. Remove starter. To
install, reverse removal procedure. Ensure shims are installed in original location. Tighten bolts or nuts to
specifications. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table.
"T" SERIES
NOTE: If shims are installed between starter and engine, note and record the
arrangement for installation reference.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Raise and support vehicle. Disconnect electrical wiring from starter
solenoid. Remove mounting bracket and wiring from brush end of starter. Remove skid plate. Remove 2
brake line-to-crossmember brackets.
2. Remove 6 crossmember bolts and remove crossmember. Remove transmission cooler line-to-flywheel
housing bracket. Remove brace rod to flywheel housing. Remove lower flywheel housing cover (if
necessary).
3. Remove starter bolts. Note location and number of shims for reassembly. Remove starter. To install,
reverse removal procedure. Tighten bolts and nuts to specifications. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
table.
"U" SERIES
NOTE: If shims are installed between starter and engine, note and record the
arrangement for installation reference.
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Raise and support vehicle. Remove nut from A/C bracket. Remove
engine bracket nut and bracket. Place drain pan under oil pan. Remove oil pressure sending unit. Remove
oil filter.
2. Disconnect electrical wiring from starter. Remove starter bolts. Note location and number of shims for
reassembly. Remove starter. To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten bolts and nuts to
specifications. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs (N.m)
2.5L 31 (43)
2.8L & 4.3L 30 (40)
All Others 28 (38)
Bracket-to Block Bolt 24 (32)
STEERING COLUMN SWITCHES
DESCRIPTION
Description not used for this article.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Refer to TROUBLE SHOOTING - BASIC PROCEDURES article in the GENERAL TROUBLE SHOOTING
section.
1. Remove steering wheel. See STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL article in the STEERING section.
Remove turn signal switch canceling cam and spring. Remove column-to-panel trim plate (if equipped).
Disconnect wiring harness half-moon connector. Pry wiring harness protector from harness retaining
slots.
2. Mark location of each wire in half-moon connector. Remove each individual wire from connector using
Wire Remover (J-22727). Insert remover into lower end of connector. Push in until remover bottoms.
3. Pull wire from connector. Withdraw remover. Remove directional signal lever screw. Remove lever. Push
in on hazard warning knob while unscrewing it to remove knob.
4. On models with tilt column and A/T, remove gear selector dial screws. Remove selector dial and
indicator. Remove cap and dial illumination light from housing cover. Unscrew and remove tilt release
lever.
5. Using Plate Compressor (J-23653-A), compress lock plate. Pry snap ring from groove. Discard snap ring.
Lift off lock plate. See Fig. 1 . On all columns, remove 3 signal switch mounting screws. Carefully
remove switch assembly from column while guiding wire harness through opening in shift lever housing.
Installation
1. To install, wrap ends of wires with tape. Guide wires through opening at lower left side of bearing
housing (tilt column), out lower end of shift lever housing and under dash.
2. Place signal switch in position. Install screws. Tighten screws to 36 INCH lbs. (4 N.m). On models with
tilt column, align openings in signal switch cover with proper lever positions. Using plastic hammer, tap
cover into place.
3. Install tilt release lever. Install A/T selector dial, pointer, dial illumination light and cap (if equipped). On
all models, install turn signal switch lever and hazard warning knob.
4. Bend wire harness connector tabs from each wire before installing in half-moon connector. Install each
wire in original position. Reconnect signal switch harness.
5. Snap wire harness protector into column retaining slots. Install signal canceling cam and spring. Install
steering wheel and column-to-instrument panel trim plate (if equipped).
1. Remove steering wheel. See STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL article in the STEERING section.
Remove column-to-instrument panel trim cover. Using Plate Compressor (J-23653-A), compress lock
plate. See Fig. 1 .
2. Pry snap ring from groove. Discard snap ring. Lift off lock plate. Remove directional signal lever.
Depress and unscrew hazard warning knob. Remove 3 switch mounting screws. On models with standard
column, pull switch connector from bracket on column.
3. Pull switch straight up, guiding wiring harness through column housing and protector. Remove wire
protector by pulling downward out of column with pliers using tab provided.
4. On models with tilt column, steering column must be in "LOW" position for directional signal switch
removal. Removal procedure is same as for standard column.
1. On models with standard column, feed connector and protector cover down through housing and under
mounting bracket. On models with tilt column, feed connector down through housing. Install protector
cover.
CAUTION: Use only specified screws. Using screws that are too long may
prevent column from compressing under impact.
2. On all columns, install 3 switch mounting screws. Clip connector to bracket. Install trim panel, hazard
warning knob and directional signal lever.
3. Ensure switch is in neutral position and hazard warning switch is pulled outward. Install thrust washer,
upper bearing preload spring and canceling cam. Place lock plate on end of shaft.
4. Using Plate Compressor (J-23653-A), compress lock plate. Install new snap ring on steering shaft. Install
cover on lock plate. Snap cover into position. Install steering wheel.
LOCK CYLINDER
Removal
1. Remove steering wheel. See STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL article in the STEERING section. Using
Plate Compressor (J-23653-A), compress lock plate and pry snap ring from groove. Discard snap ring.
Remove lock plate. Lift directional signal switch up far enough to slip over end of shaft. It is not
necessary to remove switch completely.
2. Place key in lock cylinder. Turn key to "RUN" position. Remove lock retaining screw, being careful not
to drop screw down column. Rotate lock cylinder to align cylinder key with keyway in housing. See Fig.
2 . Pull cylinder from housing.
Fig. 2: Removing Lock Cylinder Assembly
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Installation
To install, hold lock cylinder while rotating key clockwise to stop. Align cylinder key and housing keyway.
Insert cylinder into cylinder key/housing keyway assembly. To complete installation, reverse removal
procedure.
IGNITION SWITCH
Removal
1. To remove ignition switch, steering column must be lowered. See STEERING COLUMN article in the
STEERING section. It is not necessary, however, to remove steering wheel or column completely. If
steering column is not removed from vehicle, support column.
2. Turn ignition switch to "LOCK" position. If lock cylinder has already been removed, pull up on actuating
rod of switch until it stops. Push down one detent. Ignition switch is now in "LOCK" position. Remove
ignition switch retaining screws and ignition switch.
Installation
To install, switch and lock cylinder should be in "LOCK" position. Install activating rod in switch. Install
switch on column. Tighten mounting screws. Install steering column. Check system operation.
CAUTION: Use only specified screws. Using screws that are too long may prevent
column from compressing under impact.
STEERING COLUMN
DESCRIPTION
All models use collapsible steering columns. All columns have integral ignition switch and locking device.
Optional tilt wheel is available with both A/T and M/T. Transmission shift linkage is integral on all models
except those with floor shift.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Refer to TROUBLE SHOOTING - BASIC PROCEDURES article in the GENERAL TROUBLE SHOOTING
section.
NOTE: Steering column removal and installation procedures refer to all manufacturers.
Not all procedures, however, apply to all models.
Removal
1. Disconnect battery negative cable. Disconnect transmission shift cable rod by prying rod from grommet
in shift lever. Remove cable clip. Remove cable from lower bracket.
2. Disconnect either the flexible coupling, "Pot" coupling or "U" joint from pinion shaft.
3. On all models, disconnect wiring connectors at column jacket. Remove steering wheel and horn pad.
Refer to the appropriate STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL article in this section. Remove damper
assembly (if equipped). Remove turn signal lever.
4. Remove steering column-to-floor pan attaching screws. Expose steering column bracket. Remove
instrument panel steering column cover. Lower reinforcement. Disconnect bezel. Remove indicator set
screw and gearshift pointer from shift housing.
5. Remove steering column bracket-to-instrument panel attaching nuts. Lower support bracket. Firmly grasp
steering column assembly and pull rearward, while disconnecting lower stub shaft from pinion shaft
coupling.
NOTE: On vehicles equipped with cruise control and M/T, take care not to damage
clutch pedal cruise control switch.
Installation
1. Align lower shaft with lower coupling and insert shaft. Raise column assembly into position onto studs.
Loosely install nuts and washers in breakaway capsules. Pull column rearward. Tighten nuts to
specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table in this article.
2. Install a new shift lever grommet using pliers and back-up washer to snap the grommet into place. Use a
multipurpose grease to aid installation.
3. Connect gearshift cable rod to shift lever by snapping rod into grommet with pliers. Adjust linkage. Place
steering wheel on shaft with master splines aligned. Place damper assembly inside steering wheel (if
equipped). Install steering wheel retaining nut. Tighten to 45 ft. lbs. (61 N.m).
4. Install horn pad assembly. Proceed to appropriate STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL article in the
STEERING section. Connect wiring connectors at steering column jacket. Connect battery negative
cable. Test operation of lights and horn.
5. On models with A/T, install gearshift indicator pointer. Slowly move gearshift lever from "LOW"
position to "PARK" position, pausing briefly at each selector position. Loosen and readjust to align
pointer with each position (if necessary). Install instrument panel steering column cover.
The steering column with a floor mounted gearshift is basically the same as previously described. Standard
columns and service procedures are identical except as described below.
z In place of rotating shift housing, there is a plastic shroud which is fixed to lock housing. Shroud covers
jacket and lock inhibitor assembly. It is held in place by a tab that fits under side cover and one screw.
Shroud can only be replaced by removing lock housing from jacket.
z The lock inhibitor assembly consists of a lever that engages lock levers (preventing locking of steering
shaft), a button to operate lever and a return spring. Assembly is attached to lock housing in same location
as shift gate is on column shift. Lower steering shaft bearing is mounted in an aluminum support.
z A spring is attached between shift housing and column jacket. This spring keeps housing rotated
counterclockwise against rubber bumper.
OVERHAUL
STANDARD COLUMN
NOTE: All columns are similar except for appearance of covers. Some models use
ignition key light, while others do not. Disassembly and reassembly procedures
cover all models. Some procedures may not apply to every steering column.
Disassembly
1. Pry out wiring trough retainers. Lift off trough. New retainers may be required for reassembly. Use
masking tape to protect paint and a deep socket to back-up housing. Drive retaining roll pin out with a
punch to remove shift lever.
2. Remove breakaway capsules. Secure column in vise by clamping at column bracket. DO NOT distort
column. Remove turn signal lever cover-to-lock housing attaching screws. Remove cover. Remove
wiper/washer switch assembly. Pull switch cover up wiper/washer lever. Remove lever sleeve-to-switch
attaching screws.
3. Rotate wiper/washer shaft to full clockwise position. Remove shaft from switch. Remove turn signal
switch and upper bearing retaining screws. Remove retainer. Lift switch upward out of way. Unclip horn
ground wire. Remove ignition key light retaining screw. Lift ignition key light out of way.
4. Remove bearing housing-to-lock attaching screws. Remove snap ring from upper end of steering shaft.
Remove bearing housing from shaft. Remove lock plate spring and lock plate from shaft. Remove shaft
through lower end of column.
5. Remove ignition key. Remove warning switch retaining screw. Lift out key warning switch. Remove 2
ignition switch-to-column jacket retaining screws. Remove ignition switch by rotating switch 90 degrees
on actuator rod. Remove 2 dimmer switch retaining screws. Disengage dimmer switch from rod.
6. Remove bellcrank mounting screws. Slide bellcrank up in housing until it can be disconnected from
ignition switch rod. Using key, place cylinder in "LOCK" position. Remove key.
7. Using a small diameter screwdriver or similar tool, push inward to release spring-loaded lock retainer
while pulling lock cylinder from housing bore. Pull lock lever and spring assembly out of housing as an
assembly.
8. Remove 4 lock housing-to-column jacket retaining screws. Remove housing from jacket. On A/T models,
loosen shift tube set screw in shaft housing. On all models, using Shift Tube Remover (J-23072), remove
tube through lower end of jacket.
9. To disassemble flexible coupling, remove 4 bolts and 2 cross straps. Remove flexible coupling. "Pot"
coupling is removed by prying cover tangs from coupling body and lifting seal and cover from body.
Drive dowel pin down into coupling. Discard "Pot" coupling. Pull body off shaft and shoe assembly.
Reassembly
1. Coat all friction surfaces with grease. Clamp column in vise so that both ends of column are accessible.
Check column tube-to-mandrel rivets for tightness.
2. Use new 1/8" diameter by 1/4" long (1/8" grip) aluminum blind rivets (if necessary). DO NOT use steel
rivets as rivets must shear upon impact. Position crossover load spring and shift lever in gearshift
housing. Tap pivot pin into place.
3. Assemble key cylinder plunger spring. Install assembly on lock housing. Install shift lever gate on lock
housing. Place shift lever in mid position (if equipped). Seat lock housing on top of jacket by aligning
keyway in housing with slot in jacket. Install housing-to-jacket screws. Tighten alternately to 90 INCH
lbs. (10 N.m).
4. Install dimmer switch rod by firmly pushing rod into switch. Compress switch until 2 (.093") drill bit
shanks can be inserted into alignment holes. Reposition upper end of push rod in pocket of wiper/washer
switch. Remove lower column cover (if necessary). Remove drill bits.
5. Switch should click when lever is lifted and again as lever returns, just before it reaches stop in down
position. Grease and assemble 2 lock levers, lock lever spring and pin. Install assembly into lock housing.
Seat pin firmly in bottom of slots. Ensure that lock lever spring leg is firmly in place in lock casting
notch.
6. Install ignition switch actuator rod from bottom through oblong hole in lock housing. Attach rod to
bellcrank. Position bellcrank assembly into lock housing while pulling ignition switch and rod down
column. Install bellcrank onto its mounting surface. Gearshift lever should be in "PARK" position.
7. Place ignition switch on actuator rod. Rotate switch 90 degrees to lock rod into position. Install ignition
lock by turning key to "LOCK" position. Remove key. Insert cylinder into housing far enough to contact
switch actuator. Insert key. Press inward. Rotate cylinder.
8. When parts align, cylinder will move inward and spring loaded retainers will snap into place, locking
cylinder in housing. With cylinder and ignition switch in "LOCK" position, tighten ignition switch
mounting screws.
9. Feed key warning switch wires behind wiring post and down through space between housing and jacket.
Remove ignition key. Position cylinder in housing. Tighten mounting screws. Install lower bearing
support (floor shift), bearing and spring on steering shaft.
10. Install and lubricate rubber "O" ring in lower groove on upper end of steering shaft. Insert steering shaft
assembly into column assembly. Press upper bearing into upper bearing housing. Bearing must be fully
seated.
11. Push up on steering shaft to compress bearing and spring. Hold shaft in this position until snap ring is
installed. Install lock plate on steering shaft. Install upper bearing spring. Install upper bearing housing
with bearing previously installed. Tighten bearing housing retaining screws to 35 INCH lbs (4 N.m).
12. Install upper bearing snap ring on steering shaft, locking assembly into position. Install 4 screws attaching
bearing housing to lock housing. Install ignition key lamp assembly in bearing housing. Install turn signal
switch in bearing housing.
13. Feed turn signal switch and ignition key lamp wires through opening between bearing housing and lock
housing and down along bottom of jacket. Install bearing retainer plate. Tighten screws. Ensure that
ground wires from turn signal switch are positioned toward ground clips before tightening.
14. Assemble wiper switch, shaft, cover or speed control switch, switch cover and knob. Place wiper/washer
switch assembly into lock housing, feeding wires through lock housing. Fasten wires to turn signal
switch. Install dimmer switch rod and dimmer switch.
15. Install turn signal lever cover. Install breakaway capsules. Install wiring trough in place, being careful not
to pinch wires. Install new retainers (if necessary).
Fig. 1: Exploded View of Tilt Steering Column
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Disassembly
1. Remove lower bracket assembly-to-lower bearing support bolts. On column shift models, remove shift
housing cover. On floor shift models, unsnap and remove shroud extensions. Remove wiring protector
from column jacket.
2. Mount column in vise at capsule bracket. Mount holding fixture and column in vise.
3. Remove tilt lever. To remove hazard warning knob, push in knob while unscrewing. Remove ignition key
light assembly. Pull knob off wiper/washer switch assembly. Remove 2 sleeve-to-wiper/washer switch
retaining screws. Remove sleeve.
4. Rotate shaft in wiper switch fully clockwise. Remove shaft by pulling straight out of wiper/washer
switch. Carefully remove plastic cover from lock plate. Using Lock Plate Depressor (J-23653-A), depress
lock plate. Pry retaining ring from groove.
5. Remove lock plate, canceling cam and upper bearing plate. Remove switch actuator screw and arm.
Remove 3 turn signal switch attaching screws. Place shift bowl in "LOW" position. Wrap a piece of tape
around wires to prevent snagging when removing switch. Remove switch and wiring.
6. Remove key light. Place lock cylinder in "LOCK" position. Insert a small screwdriver into slot next to
switch mounting screw boss. Depress spring latch at bottom of slot. Remove lock.
7. Using a paper clip, remove key warning switch. Bend one end of clip into a hook. Insert hook into
exposed loop of wedge spring. Pull clip. Remove spring and switch. DO NOT allow spring to fall into
steering column.
8. Remove 3 housing cover screws. Remove housing cover. Remove wiper/washer switch. Using a punch,
press out wiper switch pivot pin (if necessary). Tilt lever opening shield and dimmer switch actuator rod
may be removed from cap (if necessary).
9. Place column in fully upright position. Using a large Phillips screwdriver, remove tilt spring retainer.
Insert screwdriver in opening. Push in approximately 3/16". Turn approximately 1/8 turn clockwise until
ears align with grooves in housing. Remove spring and guide.
10. Remove dimmer switch mounting screws. Remove dimmer switch. Separate dimmer switch from rod by
pulling on rod. Push upper steering shaft in far enough to remove steering shaft inner race seat and inner
race. With ignition switch in "ACC" position, remove ignition switch mounting screws and switch. Place
Pivot Pin Remover (J-21854-01) over pivot pin. Thread small portion of screw firmly into pin.
11. Hold screw from turning with one wrench while turning nut clockwise with a second wrench to withdraw
pivot pin from support. Remove opposite pivot pin in same manner. Use tilt release lever to disengage
lock shoes. Remove bearing housing assembly by pulling upward to extend rack fully.
12. Move housing assembly left to disengage rack from actuator. Rotate housing clockwise to free dimmer
switch actuator rod. Remove activator assembly. Remove coupling from lower end of steering shaft.
Double coupling is retained to shaft with a roll pin. Remove shaft assembly from upper end.
CAUTION: DO NOT drop or bump steering shaft as plastic pins may shear.
13. Disassemble steering shaft assembly by removing center spheres and anti-lash springs. Remove 4 bolts
securing support to lock plate. Remove support from end of column jacket. Remove 2 attaching screws
and shift gate from support (if necessary). Dimmer switch is removed with support.
14. Using a screwdriver, remove shift tube retaining ring. Remove thrust washer. Remove 2 screws from
lower bearing. Remove lower bearing from jacket. Using Puller (J-23073-01), remove shift tube from
bowl. Insert bushing on end of puller in shift tube to force tube from bowl. DO NOT hammer shift tube
as plastic joints may shear.
15. From lower end of jacket, remove shift tube from jacket. Remove jacket mounting plate by sliding from
jacket notches and tipping down toward bowl hub at 12 o'clock position under jacket opening. Remove
wave washer. Remove bowl from jacket. Remove shift lever spring from bowl by winding spring up with
pliers and pulling out.
16. By removing spring retaining screw and moving spring clockwise, remove lock bolt spring. Using a
hammer and punch, lightly tap drive shaft from sector. Remove drive shaft, sector and bolt. Remove rack,
spring and shim (if used). Remove tilt release lever pin.
17. Relieve load on lever release by holding shoes inward. Wedge a block between top of shoes and bearing
housing. Remove release lever and release lever spring. Using punch and hammer, remove lock shoe pin.
Remove lock shoes and lock shoe springs.
18. Remove bearings from bearing housing only if they are to be replaced. Remove separator and ball from
bearing. Place housing on work bench. Using a punch against back surface of race, hammer race from
housing. DO NOT reuse bearings.
Reassembly
1. During reassembly, coat all friction surfaces with multipurpose grease. Clamp column in vise so that both
ends of column are accessible. Install bearings in bearing housing (if removed).
2. Install lock shoe springs, lock shoes and shoe pin in bearing housing. Use a .180" (4.6 mm) rod to line up
shoes for pin installation. With tilt lever opening on left side and with the shoes facing up, the 4 slot shoe
should also face up.
3. Install spring, release lever and pin in bearing housing. Install drive shaft in housing. Lightly tap sector
onto drive shaft far enough to bottom on shaft. Install lock bolt. Engage lock bolt with sector cam surface.
Install rack and spring. Block tooth on rack should engage block tooth on sector.
4. Install external tilt release lever. Install bolt spring and spring retaining screw. Tighten to 35 INCH lbs. (4
N.m). Install shift lever spring in bowl by winding up with pliers and pushing in. Slide bowl into jacket.
Install wave washer and jacket mounting plate.
5. Work jacket mounting plate into jacket notches by tipping jacket mounting plate toward bowl hub at 12
o'clock position and under jacket opening. Slide jacket mounting plate in jacket notches. Carefully install
shift tube in lower end of jacket.
6. Align key in tube with keyway in bowl. Using Puller (J-23073-01), pull shift tube into bowl. DO NOT
push or tap on end of shift tube. By pulling bowl up and compressing wave washer, install thrust washer
and retaining pin.
7. Slide dimmer switch actuator rod through hole in support. Feed rod between bowl and jacket. Install
support by aligning notch in support with notch in jacket. Insert 4 screws through support into jacket
mounting plate. Tighten screws to 60 INCH lbs. (7 N.m). Install lower bearing on lower end of jacket (if
removed).
8. Install centering spheres and anti-lash spring in upper steering shaft. Install lower steering shaft from
same side of spheres that spring ends protrude. Perform a trial fit of assembly to ensure that master
serration of upper shaft is on same side as master serration of lower shaft assembly.
9. Position shift bowl fully counterclockwise. Install ignition switch actuator rod between bowl and jacket
from bottom. Guide back of coupling into support slot. Assemble bearing housing over steering shaft.
Engage rack over end of ignition switch actuator rod.
10. Position access hole of bearing housing over end of dimmer switch actuator rod. Rotate housing
counterclockwise to assemble. Holding lock shoes in disengaged position, assemble bearing housing over
steering shaft until pivot holes line up with holes in support.
11. Install pivot pins. Assemble as far as possible, using palm pressure of hand to prevent enlarging support
pivot hole. Using a small hammer and punch, tap pins into place. Replace wiper/washer pivot assembly.
Press pivot pin in cover (if removed). Check pivot assembly for ease of movement.
12. If movement is restricted, tap other end of pin for clearance. Install wiper/washer switch. Replace tilt
lever opening shield in cover (if removed). Position cap over dimmer switch actuator rod. Guide end of
actuator rod into pivot slot during cover assembly. Hold cap so that cover will slide over it.
13. Place housing in full upward position. Ensure there is grease between guide and peg on support, tilt
spring and tilt spring retainer. Install guide. Using a screwdriver in retaining slot, turn retainer clockwise
to engage. Install bearing inner race and seat.
14. Install lock housing cover. Tighten 3 screws to 100 INCH lbs. (11 N.m). Assemble key warning switch to
spring clip with formed end of clip under end of switch and with spring bowed away from switch on side
opposite contact. Push switch and spring into hole in lock housing cover with contacts facing lock
cylinder bore.
15. Install key light (if equipped). Install turn signal switch wires and connector through cover, bearing
housing and shift bowl. Push in hazard plunger. Install turn signal switch. Tighten screws to 25 INCH lbs.
(3 N.m). Install hazard warning knob and screw. Pull knob out.
16. Install canceling cam spring, canceling cam (carrier assembly) and lock plate. Using Lock Plate
Depressor (J-23653-A), depress lock plate. Install a new retaining ring. Install tilt release lever (if
removed). Install turn signal switch lever.
17. Install ignition lock. Turn key to "LOCK" position. Remove key. Insert cylinder into housing far enough
to contact shaft. Press inward while moving ignition switch actuator rod up and down to align parts.
18. When parts align, cylinder will move inward and a spring loaded retainer will snap into place locking
cylinder in housing. To replace ignition switch, position key cylinder in "LOCK" position. Remove key.
Place ignition switch in "LOCK" position (second detent from bottom).
19. Fit ignition switch actuator rod into slider hole. Loosely install on column with 2 screws. Push switch
lightly toward lock housing to take out slack in actuator rod. Tighten screws to 34 INCH lbs. (4 N.m).
DO NOT move switch out of detent position.
20. Install dimmer switch by firmly seating push rod into switch. Compress switch until 2 (.093") drill bit
shanks can be inserted into alignment holes. Reposition upper end of push rod in pocket of wiper/washer
switch. Remove lower column cover (if necessary).
21. With a light upward pressure on switch, install 2 screws. Remove drill bits. Switch should click when
lever is lifted and again as lever returns, just before it reaches lower stop. Install wire protector over wires
on column jacket, being careful not to pinch wires.
22. Remove column from vise. Position lower bracket assembly on steering column. Install 2 bolts. Tighten
to 105 INCH lbs. (12 N.m). Aligning master splines, install coupling assembly on steering shaft. Support
coupling under joint. Drive in roll pin.
NOTE: DO NOT remove bearings from housing unless they are to be replaced. Install
new bearings if bearings are removed from housing. Never reuse old bearings.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Flexible Coupling Bolt 17 (23)
Steering Wheel Retaining Nut 45 (61)
Support Plate Bolt 17 (23)
INCH Lbs. (N.m)
Bearing Housing-to-Lock Housing Screw 35 (4)
Bracket-to-Column Bolt 124 (14)
Column Clamp Stud 20 (2)
Column Clamp Stud Nut 106 (12)
Hazard Switch Screw 27 (3)
Housing Cover Screw 100 (11)
Ignition Switch Screw 35 (4)
Lock Housing-to-Jacket Screw 90 (10)
Shift Tube Support Screw 60 (7)
Steering Column Lower Bracket Bolt 106 (12)
Tilt Release Spring Retaining Screw 35 (4)
Turn Signal Retaining Plate Screw 27 (3)
Upper Bracket Nut 106 (12)
STEERING GEAR - MANUAL
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURES
ADJUSTMENT
WORM BEARING PRELOAD
1. Place reference marks on pitman arm and sector shaft. Using Pitman Arm Remover (J-6632-01), remove
pitman arm from sector shaft. Loosen worm bearing adjuster lock nut. Back off worm bearing adjuster
1/4 turn. See Fig. 1 .
CAUTION: DO NOT turn wheel hard against stop with steering linkage
disconnected or steering gear may be damaged.
2. Remove horn button. Turn wheel to the right stop and back off 1/2 turn. Install INCH lb. torque wrench
on steering shaft nut. Rotate steering shaft through 90 degree arc and note torque wrench reading.
3. Torque required to maintain wheel movement should be 5-8 INCH lbs. (.5-.9 N.m). If not within
specification, tighten worm bearing adjuster clockwise to increase preload or counterclockwise to
decrease preload.
4. Adjust and hold worm bearing adjuster while tightening lock nut. Recheck worm bearing preload.
OVER-CENTER PRELOAD
1. With worm bearing preload adjusted, turn worm shaft slowly from stop-to-stop while counting total
number of turns. Turn shaft back to the exact center position.
2. Loosen lock nut and turn sector shaft adjuster screw (located in center of sector shaft cover) in until all
lash is taken out of sector shaft. Tighten lock nut. Rotate worm shaft slightly off center then attach an
INCH lb. torque wrench to worm shaft or steering wheel nut.
3. Rotate worm shaft back through center position and note rotating torque. Rotating torque should be 4-10
INCH lbs. (.4-1.1 N.m) in excess of worm bearing preload. Maximum torque should not exceed 16 INCH
lbs. (1.8 N.m). If rotating torque is not within specification, adjust sector shaft adjuster screw.
CAUTION: If maximum torque is exceeded, rotate sector shaft adjuster screw
counterclockwise and approach adjustment by rotating lock nut
clockwise.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Refer to TROUBLE SHOOTING - BASIC PROCEDURES article in the GENERAL TROUBLE SHOOTING
section.
NOTE: All steering component fasteners are made of special quality materials.
Replacement fasteners must be of same part number or equivalent. Torque all
fasteners and install new cotter pin when used.
1. Set front wheels in straight-ahead position. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove flexible coupling
cover (if equipped). Remove flexible coupling-to-steering shaft pinch bolt. Place reference marks on
coupling and shaft for reassembly reference.
2. Mark relationship of pitman arm-to-sector shaft. Remove pitman arm retaining nut. Remove pitman arm
using Puller (J-6632-01). Remove steering gear mounting bolts and remove gear assembly.
3. To install, reverse removal procedure. Ensure all reference marks are aligned and flexible coupling pinch
bolt is aligned with groove of the shaft.
NOTE: All steering component fasteners are made of special quality materials.
Replacement fasteners must be of same part number or equivalent. Torque all
fasteners and install new cotter pin when used.
Removal
1. Seal may be replaced with steering gear installed. Set front wheels in straight-ahead position. Mark
relationship of pitman arm-to-sector shaft. Remove pitman arm using Puller (J-6632-01).
2. Remove sector shaft cover bolts. Lift sector shaft and side cover assembly from housing. Pry sector shaft
seal from housing using a screwdriver. Be careful not to scratch housing bore.
3. Inspect gear lubricant for contamination. If lubricant is contaminated in any way, gear should be
completely rebuilt.
Installation
1. Lubricate new sector shaft seal with steering gear lubricant. Position seal in sector shaft bore and tap it
into place using a socket.
2. Remove sector shaft adjuster screw lock nut. Remove sector shaft cover from sector shaft assembly by
turning adjuster screw clockwise. Install sector shaft in gear so center tooth of sector enters center tooth
space of ball nut.
3. Fill gear housing with lubricant and install new side cover gasket on gear housing. Install side cover over
sector shaft by reaching through cover hole with a screwdriver.
4. Turn sector shaft adjuster screws counterclockwise until screw bottoms and then back off screw 1/4 turn.
Install sector shaft cover bolts and sector shaft adjuster lock nut. Adjust worm bearing preload and over-
center preload. Refer to the WORM BEARING PRELOAD and OVER-CENTER PRELOAD
adjustment procedures at the beginning of this article.
OVERHAUL
DISASSEMBLY
1. Place steering gear in a vise, clamping onto one mounting tab. Worm shaft should be in a horizontal
position. Rotate worm shaft from stop-to-stop while counting total number of turns. Turn shaft back to the
exact center position.
2. Loosen sector shaft adjuster screw lock nut. Remove sector shaft cover bolts. Lift sector shaft cover and
sector shaft from housing.
3. Loosen worm bearing adjuster lock nut. Remove worm bearing adjuster with bearing and bearing race.
See Fig. 1 . Remove ball nut and worm shaft assembly.
CAUTION: DO NOT allow ball nut to rotate down to either end of worm shaft, as
ball guide ends may be damaged.
4. Remove remaining bearing from housing. Using screwdriver, pry bearing retainer from worm bearing
adjuster assembly and remove bearing. Remove sector shaft adjuster screw lock nut.
5. Hold sector shaft cover and turn sector shaft adjuster screw clockwise to remove sector shaft cover.
Remove sector shaft adjuster screw and shim from sector shaft. Pry out and discard both sector shaft and
worm shaft seals.
Clean components with solvent and dry with compressed air. Inspect bearings and races for signs of wear.
Inspect sector shaft fit at side cover. Check ball nut and worm shaft assembly for wear and straightness.
COMPONENT SERVICE
Support steering gear in an arbor press. Using Bearing Remover (J-6278), drive sector shaft bearing from
housing. Using Bearing Installer (J-35469 and J-8092), install new bearing into housing. Replacement bushings
are machined to size and require no reaming.
Using Slide Hammer (J-29369-1), remove bearing race from worm bearing adjuster. Using Bearing Race
Installer (J-35365), install bearing race in worm bearing adjuster.
Using a hammer and punch, remove bearing race from housing. Using Bearing Race Installer (J-35365), install
new bearing race in housing.
Ball nut disassembly is necessary only if binding or tightness exists while rotating worm shaft. If disassembly is
required, proceed to step 1).
CAUTION: Note number of balls located in each circuit of ball nut. Correct amount
must be installed in each circuit. Note direction of ball nut installation on
worm shaft.
1. Several balls will be removed; ensure there is proper area to catch balls. Remove ball guides retaining
clamp. Pull guides from ball nut while catching balls in clean pan. Turn nut over and rotate worm shaft
until all balls have been removed.
2. Remove worm shaft from the ball nut. Wash parts and inspect worm, nut grooves, and ball bearings for
indentations. Check ball guides for damage at ends where they deflect or pick up balls from helical path
on worm shaft.
3. Measure distance between ball grooves of worm gear. Distance between grooves determines amount of
balls to be installed in each circuit. See BALL USAGE table.
BALL USAGE
Groove Distance:P In. (mm) Balls Per Circuit
.04 (1.0) 25
.10 (2.5) 27
.20 (5.0) 27
4. To reassemble ball nut and worm shaft, install ball nut with narrow end of ball nut teeth upward on right
side (looking from steering wheel end of worm shaft). Install worm shaft. Ensure worm shaft is aligned
with grooves in ball nut.
5. Install guides in ball nut. Install proper amount of balls in one guide hole while rotating the worm shaft.
Repeat procedure for the remaining guide. Install guide clamps and bolts.
REASSEMBLY
1. Place gear housing in a vise with worm shaft bore horizontal and side cover opening facing upward. All
seals, bushings and worm shaft bearing races should be installed.
2. Place upper ball bearing over worm shaft. Install worm shaft and ball nut assembly into housing and up
through the upper ball bearing race and seal. Install bearing and retainer in worm bearing adjuster.
3. Install worm shaft and worm bearing adjuster in housing. Tighten worm bearing adjuster until a very
slight amount of worm shaft end play exists. Install sector shaft adjuster screw and shim in slotted end of
sector shaft.
4. Using feeler gauge, check clearance between adjuster screw and sector shaft when holding adjuster screw
upward. Clearance should not exceed .002" (.05 mm). If clearance exceeds specification, a different
thickness shim should be installed.
5. Rotate worm shaft until ball nut is at center of its travel. Install sector shaft assembly so center tooth of
sector teeth enters center tooth space in ball nut.
6. Install side cover gasket. Install side cover over sector shaft by reaching through cover with a
screwdriver.
7. Turn adjuster screw counterclockwise until screw bottoms and then back off screw 1/2 turn. Loosely
install a new lock nut onto adjuster screw.
8. Install sector shaft cover bolts. Adjust worm bearing preload and over-center preload. Refer to the
WORM BEARING PRELOAD and OVER-CENTER PRELOAD adjustment procedures at the
beginning of this article.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Flexible Coupling Pinch Bolt 30 (41)
Pitman Arm-To-Sector Shaft Nut 185 (250)
Sector Shaft Adjuster Screw Lock Nut 22 (30)
Sector Shaft Cover Bolt 32 (43)
Steering Gear-To-Frame 55 (75)
STEERING KNUCKLES - 4WD
DESCRIPTION
Open type steering knuckles are used on all models. Open type knuckles provide sharper turning angle, which
will decrease vehicle turning radius. Axle shafts are free floating. Depending upon vehicle model, steering
knuckles can be attached to axle housing by either ball joints or roller bearings and king (pivot) pins.
ADJUSTMENTS
BALL JOINTS
1. Raise vehicle and support securely. Disconnect tie rod at steering knuckle. Connect spring tension gauge
to tie rod hole in steering knuckle. Place steering knuckle in straight ahead position.
2. Measure force required to pull steering knuckle to right after initial breakaway. Pull should not exceed 25
ft. lbs. (34 N.m). If excessive pull is required, remove upper ball joint stud nut. Loosen adjusting sleeve as
required. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS table.
Fig. 1: Exploded View of King Pin Type Steering Knuckle Assembly
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
OVERHAUL
BALL JOINT TYPE
Disassembly
1. Raise vehicle and support securely. Remove wheels. Remove brake caliper and rotor. Remove locking
hubs (if equipped). See Fig. 2 .
2. Disconnect tie rod end from steering knuckle. Remove spindle nuts and lightly tap spindle with soft face
hammer to free it from steering knuckle. Pull out axle shaft assembly. Remove hub and bearing assembly.
3. Remove ball joint cotter keys and nuts. Break ball joints loose from steering knuckle. Remove nuts
holding lower knuckle to knuckle arm and separate components.
4. Clean all components with solvent and dry with compressed air. Inspect all parts for burrs, chips, wear,
flat spots or cracks. Replace all damaged or worn parts.
Reassembly
NOTE: When aligning upper ball joint nut to install cotter pin, always tighten nut to
align. Never loosen nut to align holes.
Disassembly
1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Remove brake caliper. Remove locking
hubs (if equipped). See Fig. 1 .
2. Remove hub lock mechanism. Remove snap ring. Pry out driving hub and spring. Remove wheel bearing
lock nut. Outer wheel bearing and retainer will come off with hub.
3. Remove inner bearing and seal from hub. Remove inner and outer bearing races (if necessary) with brass
punch. Remove spindle. Carefully pull axle shaft assembly through hole in steering knuckle.
4. Disconnect steering linkage at knuckle. Remove nuts from upper king pin cap. Remove nuts alternately as
spring will force cap up. Remove cap, compression spring, and gasket.
5. Remove nuts from lower cap. Remove cap and king pin. Remove upper king pin tapered bushing and
knuckle from axle yoke. Remove upper king pin from yoke using puller.
6. Using punch, drive out (from top to bottom) lower king pin bearing, bearing race, grease retainer and
seal.
Reassembly
1. Install new grease retainer and bearing race in bottom of yoke. Fill grease retainer with lubricant. Grease
bearing and install in race. Install new lower king pin oil seal.
2. Care must be taken not to distort seal as it is driven into place. It will protrude slightly from surface of
yoke. Install upper king pin.
3. Position felt seal on king pin. Install steering knuckle and tapered bushing on king pin. Install lower
bearing cap and king pin. Tighten bolts alternately and evenly to specifications.
4. Install compression spring on upper king pin bushing. Install bearing cap using new gasket. Tighten nuts
alternately and evenly to specifications.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Ball Joint Type
Lower Ball Joint Nut
"S" Series 83 (112)
"K" Series 94 (127)
"V" Series 100 (136)
Upper Ball Joint Nut
"S" Series 61 (83)
"K" Series 94 (127)
"V" Series 30 (41)
Upper Ball Joint Split Retaining Seat 50 (68)
King Pin Type
Drag Link-to-Steering Knuckle Nut 60 (81)
King Pin Cap Bolts 70-90 (95-122)
Tie Rod-to-Steering Knuckle Nut 45 (61)
STEERING
Steering Linkage
DO NOT hammer on ball studs or damage to threads may result. If threads are not clean and smooth, ball studs
may turn in joint when nuts are tightened. Tie rod sleeve clamps must always be positioned as specified before
tightening bolts.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Refer to TROUBLE SHOOTING - BASIC PROCEDURES article in the GENERAL TROUBLE SHOOTING
section.
OVERHAUL
TIE ROD REPLACEMENT
1. Remove cotter pin and castle nut. Using Tie Rod Remover (J-6627-A), remove tie rod outer ball stud.
Remove inner ball stud from relay rod in same manner.
2. Loosen clamp bolts. Unscrew tie rod end assemblies. Note number of turns needed to remove. If tie rod
adjuster clamp bolts are rusted, new nuts and bolts must be used.
3. Apply penetrating oil between clamps and tube. Rotate clamps until they move freely. Use new fasteners.
Lubricate tie rod threads with chassis lube. Install tie rod ends. Ensure both ends are threaded an equal
distance on tie rod.
4. Check that threads on ball studs and nuts are clean and smooth. Check condition of ball stud seals.
Replace seals (if necessary). Install ball studs in steering arms and relay rod.
5. Install castle nuts and new cotter pins. Adjust toe-in. See WHEEL ALIGNMENT section. Before
tightening clamp bolts, ensure clamps are between locating dimples at either end of sleeve. Adjuster
sleeve slot must not be within open area of clamp jaw opening. See Fig. 9.
6. Position of tie rod end must be maintained while tightening clamps to ensure free travel of each joint.
Tighten clamps to specification. Lubricate tie rod ends.
Fig. 1: "R" Series, P20 & P30 Step Van Steering Linkage
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 2: "G" Series Steering Linkage
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 3: "V" Series Steering Linkage
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 4: P30 W/I-Beam Axle
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 5: P30 Motorhome Steering Linkage
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Remove inner ends of tie rods from relay rod. Remove nuts from pitman arm and idler arm or relay arm
ball studs at relay rod. Using Steering Linkage Puller (J-24319-01), remove relay rod from pitman and
idler arms.
2. To install, reverse removal procedure. Check ball studs and nuts for clean and smooth threads. Check stud
seals. Replace seals (if necessary). Tighten nuts. Install new cotter pins.
IDLER ARM REPLACEMENT
NOTE: Idler arm assembly should always be replaced if an up and down force (forward
and rearward on "G" series) of 25 lbs. (11 kg), applied at relay rod end of idler
arm, produces a lash of more than 1/8" (3 mm) in straight-ahead position.
1. Place vehicle on hoist. Remove fasteners from ball stud and relay rod. Using Steering Linkage Puller (J-
24319-01), remove ball stud from relay rod. Remove idler arm-to-frame bolts. Remove idler arm
assembly.
2. Ensure threads on studs and nuts are clean and smooth. Check ball stud seals. Replace seals (if
necessary). To install, reverse removal procedure. Check for proper alignment of connecting rod clamps.
See Fig. 9.
1. Place vehicle on hoist. Remove cotter pin from ball stud. Remove nut. Using Steering Linkage Puller (J-
24319-01), remove pitman arm from ball stud.
2. Remove pitman arm nut from shaft or clamp bolt from pitman arm. Index mark arm-to-shaft position.
Using Puller (J-6632-01), remove pitman arm from shaft. To install, reverse removal procedure.
3. If a clamp-type pitman arm is used, spread pitman arm with a wedge just enough to slip arm onto shaft by
hand pressure. DO NOT hammer on pitman arm or damage to steering gear may result. Be sure to
reinstall the hardened steel washer before installing nut.
1. Remove cotter pins from ball studs. Remove castle nuts. Using Steering Linkage Puller (J-24319-01),
remove ball studs from steering arm and pitman arm boss.
2. To install, reverse removal procedure. Ensure threads on studs and nuts are clean and smooth. Check ball
stud seals. Replace seals (if necessary).
3. Install connecting rod on steering components. Tighten nuts. Install new cotter pins. Ensure connecting
rod clamps are properly aligned.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT
After performing appropriate service procedures, refer to WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS &
PROCEDURES article in the WHEEL ALIGNMENT section.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Connecting Rod-to-Pitman Arm Nut
Astro & Safari 35 (47)
"P" Series Motorhome & Forward Control Chassis 70 (95)
"V" Series 89 (121)
Connecting Rod-to-Relay Arm Nut "P" Series (Motorhome) 70 (95)
Idler Arm & Relay Arm-to-Support Assembly
"P" Series (Motorhome) 125 (170)
Idler Arm Frame Support-to-Frame Bolt
Astro, Safari & "S" Series 60 (81)
"C" Series 40 (54)
"G" Series 35 (47)
"R" Series & "P20/P30" Series 30 (41)
Idler Arm-to-Relay Rod Nut (1)
Astro & Safari 35 (47)
"C" Series 40 (54)
"G", "R" & "P20/P30" Series 66 (90)
"S" Series
2WD 35 (47)
4WD 60 (81)
Pitman Arm-to-Relay Rod Nut (1)
"C" Series 40 (54)
"G" & "R" Series 66 (90)
Pitman Arm-to-Steering Gear Nut
Astro, Safari, "C" "G", "K", "P" (Van) & "R" Series 184 (249)
"P" Series Motorhome & Forward Control Chassis 125 (170)
"V" Series 92 (125)
Relay Rod-to-Relay Arm Nut "P" Series (Motorhome) 66 (90)
Tie Rod Clamp Nut
"V" Series 40 (54)
All Other Models 14 (19)
Tie Rod Jam Nut
"P" Series (Forward Control Chassis) 277 (375)
"V" Series 175 (237)
Tie Rod-to-Relay Rod Nut
Astro, Safari & "S" Series 35 (47)
"C" & "V" Series 40 (54)
"G" & "R" Series 66 (90)
Tie Rod-to-Steering Knuckle Nut
Astro & Safari 35 (47)
"C" & "V" Series 40 (54)
"G" & "R" Series 46 (62)
"S" Series 35 (47)
(1) Seat the taper using a free-spinning nut, then install lock nut.
STEERING WHEEL REMOVAL
STEERING General Motors Horn & Steering Wheel Removal REMOVAL &
INSTALLATION
NOTE: For removal and installation procedures of column mounted switches, see
STEERING COLUMN SWITCHES article in the STEERING section.
HORN BUTTON
Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove horn button. To install, reverse removal procedure.
STEERING WHEEL
1. Disconnect negative battery cable. Remove horn pad. Remove snap ring and steering wheel retaining nut.
Mark steering wheel and shaft for reassembly reference. Using Steering Wheel Puller (J-1859-03),
remove steering wheel.
NOTE: Turn signal switch must be in neutral position prior to installing steering
wheel to prevent damage to canceling cam and switch assembly.
2. To install, ensure turn signal switch is in neutral position. To install, reverse removal procedure. Tighten
retaining nut to 30 ft. lbs. (41 N.m). Install snap ring.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Refer to TROUBLE SHOOTING - BASIC PROCEDURES article in the GENERAL TROUBLE
SHOOTING section.
SUSPENSION - FRONT (4WD)
DESCRIPTION
Front suspension consists of upper and lower control arms, stabilizer bar, shock absorbers and torsion bars.
Front wheel bearings are sealed, pre-adjusted and require no maintenance unless wheel hub and bearing carrier
is removed. See REMOVAL & INSTALLATION .
Fig. 1: Exploded View of "S" Series Hub & Knuckle Assembly ("K" series is similar.)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
"K" Series
1. Raise and support vehicle with jack stands under lower control arms. Ensure stands are as close as
possible to each lower ball joint and upper control arm bumper does not contact frame. Adjust wheel
bearings.
2. To check ball joints, place a dial indicator stem against spindle to show vertical movement. Pry between
lower control arm and outer bearing race while reading dial indicator. Vertical play should not
exceed .080" (2.0 mm).
"S" Series
1. Raise and support vehicle with jack stands under lower control arms. Ensure stands are as close as
possible to each lower ball joint and upper control arm bumper does not contact frame.
2. To check upper ball joint for horizontal play, place dial indicator stem against lowest outboard point of
wheel rim. Rock wheel in and out. Horizontal play should not exceed .125" (3.20 mm). If upper ball joint
stud can be rotated, replace ball joint.
3. To check lower ball joint, place dial indicator on center of wheel hub dust cover. Pry between lower
control arm and outer wheel bearing race portion of hub assembly. Horizontal play should not
exceed .125" (3.20 mm). If lower ball joint is within specification, check upper ball joint for excessive
play.
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Depress brake caliper piston. Detach brake
caliper mounting bolts and move aside. Remove disc brake rotor.
2. Detach dust cover and remove cotter pin, nut retainer, nut and washer. Slide hub/bearing carrier off front
axle shaft splines. Inspect steering knuckle grease seal and hub bearing for excessive wear or damage and
replace as necessary. If hub wheel stud must be replaced, use Wheel Stud Remover (J-6627-A).
Installation
1. To install new wheel stud, lubricate stud bore and install stud. Place 4 washers on stud and install stud nut
reversed (flat side to washers). Tighten stud nut to draw stud into hub bore. Remove nut and washers.
Install hub and bearing assembly onto axle shaft, if removed. Install and tighten hub and bearing bolts.
2. With hub and bearing assembly installed, tighten hub retainer nut to 181 ft. lbs. (245 N.m) on "S" series,
or 173 ft. lbs. (235 N.m) on "K" series. Install hub retainer nut cover, new cotter pin and dust cover. Do
not back off nut to install cotter pin.
3. Install brake rotor and caliper. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Depress brake pedal
several times to extend caliper piston after installation.
STEERING KNUCKLE
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle. Unload torsion bar. See Fig. 2 . Counting exact number of turns for
reassembly reference, back off torsion bar adjusting bolt to ease steering knuckle removal.
2. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Install Axle Shaft Boot Seal Protector (J-28712 ) to protect drive axle
boot during repair. Depress caliper piston, detach brake caliper and move aside. Remove brake rotor.
3. Remove dust cover, hub retainer nut cover, retainer nut and washer. Slide hub and bearing assembly off
axle shaft. Remove tie rod end nut. Separate tie rod end from steering knuckle.
Fig. 2: Unloading Torsion Bar
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
4. On "S" series, place Ball Joint Separator (J-34026 ) over upper or lower ball joint. Loosen ball joint
retainer nut. See Fig. 3 . Back off until nut contacts tool. Continue backing off nut until nut forces ball
stud out of knuckle. On "K" series, separate ball joint from steering knuckle using Ball Joint Separator (J-
36607 ).
5. On all models, remove steering knuckle from vehicle without damaging or moving axle shaft. Inspect
knuckle grease seal for cuts, distortion and wear. Check steering knuckle, bearing carrier and wheel
bearing for damage. Replace components as necessary.
Fig. 3: Separating "S" Series Ball Joint From Steering Knuckle
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Installation
1. Install new knuckle grease seal using hammer and Front Hub Knuckle Inner Seal Installer (J-28574 ).
Install spacer. Install knuckle onto ball joint studs.
2. Attach ball joint mounting nuts. Install tie rod nut. Install hub and bearing assembly onto axle shaft and
into knuckle. Tighten hub retainer nut.
3. Complete installation by reversing removal procedure. Check and adjust ride height. See Fig. 6 and Fig.
7 . Check front end alignment as necessary.
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle under lower control arms. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Depress caliper
piston, detach brake caliper and wire aside. Remove brake rotor. Remove dust cover, cotter pin, hub
retainer nut cover, retainer nut and washer.
2. Slide hub and bearing assembly off of axle shaft. Separate tie rod end and ball joints from steering
knuckle. For "S" series, See Fig. 3 . On "K" series, use Ball Joint Separator (J-36607 ).
3. On all models, remove steering knuckle as previously described. To remove upper or lower ball joint,
drill out and discard mounting rivets.
Installation
1. Install new ball joint using bolts and nuts in place of rivets. Tighten upper and lower ball joint mounting
nuts to specification.
2. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. DO NOT tighten ball joint stud nuts more than 1/6
turn to align cotter pin hole.
3. Lubricate ball joints and tie rods with grease. Check and adjust ride height. See Fig. 6 and Fig. 7 . Check
front end alignment as necessary.
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle under lower control arms. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Remove upper ball
joint cotter pin and nut. Separate ball joint from steering knuckle. For "S" series, See Fig. 3 . For "K"
series, use Ball Joint Separator (J-36607 ).
2. On all models, mark alignment adjustment cams for realignment reference. Remove upper control arm
pivot bolts, cams and nuts. Discard nuts. Note component locations for reassembly reference. Remove
control arm. See Fig. 4 and Fig. 5 .
3. Replace bushings and/or bumper as needed. Mount control arm in vise and note bushing installed position
for reassembly reference. Press bushing out of control arm.
Installation
1. If upper control arm bumper is deteriorated or damaged, install new bumper. On "S" series, install upper
control arm bushings with bushing service set. See Fig. 5 . Press in bushing until properly seated in
control arm.
Fig. 4: Exploded View of "K" Series Upper Control Arm
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 5: Removing & Installing "S" Series Upper Control Arm & Bushings
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
NOTE: On "K" series, alignment angles are preset at factory. Adjusting cams are
available for installation.
2. On all models, mount control arm on vehicle. Install pivot bolts, alignment adjustment cams ("S" series
only) and NEW pivot nuts. Ensure bolts heads are facing inward.
3. Connect steering knuckle to ball joints. Tighten all mounting fasteners. DO NOT tighten ball joint nut
more than 1/6 turn to align cotter pin hole. Complete installation by reversing removal procedure. Check
front end alignment and adjust as needed.
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Before control arm removal, unload torsion
bar. See Fig. 2 . Remove torsion bar adjusting nut. See Fig. 6 . Relieve tension on torsion bar. Remove
front splash shield bolts so shield may be moved for access to tie rod and stabilizer bar.
2. Disconnect lower shock mounting bolts. Detach stabilizer bar-to-lower control arm bracket mounting
bolts (both sides). Rotate bar down and out of work area.
3. Separate inner tie rod end from relay rod. Remove outer drive axle shaft nut and washer. Remove bolts
connecting drive axle shaft to differential drive flange. Press drive axle shaft splines out of hub. Remove
drive axle shaft from vehicle.
4. Remove cotter pin and nut from lower ball joint. Separate lower ball joint from lower control arm using
Ball Joint Separator (J-36607 ).
5. Remove lower control arm pivot mounting bolts with nuts. Remove lower control arm and torsion bar as
a unit. Separate lower control arm from torsion bar.
Bushing Replacement
On 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton vehicles (K1 and K2 series), replace lower control arm if bushings are worn or damaged.
On 1 ton vehicles (K3 series), use a press or Bushing Service Set (J-36618 ) to replace bushings. On front
bushing, unbend crimps before removing bushing. Ensure new front bushing is crimped in place after
installation.
CAUTION: Lower control arm pivot bolt nuts must be tightened with vehicle at normal
riding height.
Installation
1. Install lower control arm and torsion bar in vehicle. Install lower control arm pivot bolts (bolts heads
facing forward) and NEW nuts. Do not tighten nuts yet. Install drive axle shaft. Install steering knuckle.
When tightening ball joint nuts, do not tighten more than 1/6 turn beyond torque specification to align
cotter pin holes.
2. Adjust riding height. See Fig. 6 . To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Final tighten lower
control arm pivot nuts with weight of vehicle on suspension.
Fig. 6: Adjusting "K" Series Riding Height
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
NOTE: Manufacturer does not give procedure for lower control arm removal.
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheels. Unload torsion bar tension. See Fig. 2 .
2. Remove stabilizer bar from vehicle. See STABILIZER BAR in this article. Disconnect lower shock
absorber bolt. Remove lower control arm pivot bolts and nuts.
Bushing Replacement
Installation
To install lower control arm, reverse removal procedure. Do not final tighten lower control arm pivot bolts and
nuts until vehicle is at normal riding height with weight resting on wheels. Fig. 7 .
Fig. 7: Adjusting "S" Series Riding Height
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 8: Replacing "S" Series Lower Control Arm Bushings
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Unload torsion bar tension. See Fig. 2 .
Remove torsion bar adjusting bolt, counting number of turns for reassembly reference. Slowly relieve
torsion bar tension.
2. Remove unloader tool. Detach torsion bar support mounting bolts and nuts. Remove retainers and rubber
isolators. See Fig. 9 . Slide torsion bar support rearward. Pull torsion bar down and slide back to remove
bar from control arm.
3. Remove crossmember support and adjusting arms (if necessary). Inspect torsion bars, adjusting arms,
retainers, rubber support cushions and crossmember support for bend, cracks, deterioration or damage.
Check adjusting screw and nut for damage or stripped threads. Replace components as necessary.
Installation
1. Ensure torsion bar support, rubber insulators and retainers are in place on frame, slightly behind mounting
holes. Slide torsion bar into lower control arm in original position.
2. Slide torsion bar support forward, engaging rear of torsion bars in adjusting arms. Install and tighten
torsion bar retainer bolts and nuts.
3. Install adjusting bolt and nut on each torsion bar. Place tension on torsion bar with Torsion Bar Unloader
(J-36202 ). Tighten adjusting bolt until correct ride height is obtained. See Fig. 6 and Fig. 7 . Install
wheels and lower vehicle.
STABILIZER BAR
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove both wheel and tire assemblies. Unload torsion bar. See Fig. 2 .
Detach stabilizer bar frame bracket mounting bolts. Detach bar-to-lower control arm bracket mounting
bolts.
2. Remove stabilizer bar with brackets and rubber insulator bushings. Inspect bushings for deformation
and/or deterioration. Check stabilizer bar and brackets for excessive wear or damage and replace as
necessary.
Installation
1. Install new insulator bushings on stabilizer bar (with split toward front) and brackets onto bushings.
Position bar and partially start lower control arm bracket mounting bolts.
2. Install frame bracket mounting bolts and tighten to specification. Tighten remaining mounting bolts. To
complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Reset riding height. See Fig. 6 and Fig. 7 .
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
"K" Series
Ball Joint-to-Control Arm Nuts
1/2 & 3/4 Ton 17 (23)
1 Ton 52 (70)
Ball Joint Stud Nuts (1) 94 (128)
Drive Axle Nut-to-Hub & Bearing 173 (235)
Hub & Bearing/Shield & Knuckle Bolts 66 (90)
Lower Control Arm-to-Frame Nuts (2) (4) 96 (130)
Lug Nut
Single Wheel 90 (123)
Dual Wheel 125 (170)
Retainer-to-Torsion Bar Support Bolts 35 (48)
Shock Absorber Nut (3) 48 (65)
Stabilizer Bar Clamp-to-Frame Bolts 12 (17)
Stabilizer Bar Link Bolt 24 (33)
Tie Rod End-to-Steering Knuckle Nut 35 (48)
Torsion Bar Retainer Nut 33 (45)
Upper Control Arm-to-Frame Nuts (2) 88 (119)
"S" Series
Ball Joint-to-Control Arm Nuts (1) 17 (23)
Ball Joint Stud Nuts (1)
Lower 83 (113)
Upper 61 (83)
Drive Axle Nut-to-Hub & Bearing 181 (245)
Hub & Bearing/Shield & Knuckle Nuts 86 (116)
Lower Control Arm-to-Frame Bolts 148 (200)
Lower Control Arm-to-Frame Nuts 92 (125)
Lug Nut
Aluminum Wheel 90 (123)
Steel Wheel 73 (100)
Retainer-to-Torsion Bar Support Bolts 26 (35)
Shock Absorber Nut (3) 54 (73)
Stabilizer Bar Link Bolt 24 (33)
Stabilizer Bar Clamp-to-Frame Bolts 48 (35)
Tie Rod End-to-Steering Knuckle Nut 35 (48)
Torsion Bar Retainer Bolt 25 (34)
Upper Control Arm-to-Frame Nuts 70 (95)
(1) Do not back off retainer nut to install new cotter pin. After reaching proper torque, tighten nut only
enough to align slot.
(2) Use new nuts on reassembly.
(3) Install to shock absorber mounting bolt with nut to rear of vehicle. Install lower mounting bolt with
nut facing forward.
(4) Install both mounting bolts with nuts facing rearward.
SUSPENSION - FRONT (2WD)
DESCRIPTION
Independent front suspension consists of upper and lower control arms with steering knuckle mounted by ball
joints. The upper and lower control arms are mounted with pivot shafts or bolts, through rubber bushings. Coil
springs are mounted between lower control arm and a formed seat in suspension crossmember. A stabilizer bar
is bracket mounted to frame side rails and connected to lower control arms by link bolts.
CAUTION: Never preload tapered roller bearings or damage to roller ends will result.
Bearings are designed to have a slightly loose feel when properly
adjusted.
1. Raise and support vehicle. Rotate wheel by hand to check bearings for excessive tightness, looseness,
noise or roughness. Grip wheel assembly at top and bottom and check hub play. If movement is
not .0010-.0050" (.025-.127 mm), adjust bearings.
2. Tighten spindle bearing nut to 12 ft. lbs. (16 N.m) while turning wheel forward by hand. Back off nut
until it is just loose. Finger tighten nut until snug. Loosen nut slightly (no more than 1/2 a flat) until new
cotter pin can be installed. Recheck hub play.
NOTE: Ensure wheel bearings are properly adjusted prior to checking ball joints. If ball
joint rubber grease seal is cut or damaged, it must be replaced.
1. Raise and support vehicle with jack stands under lower control arms, as close as possible to each lower
ball joint. Ensure upper control arm bumper does not contact frame. Place dial indicator against lower
part of wheel rim. Push in on bottom of tire while pulling outward at the top. Read gauge, then reverse
push/pull procedure.
2. Lateral (horizontal) deflection should not exceed .125" (3.18 mm). If deflection is excessive, replace ball
joint.
1. Wear indicator is built into the ball joint. Wear is indicated by the position of the 1/2" diameter round
boss that the grease fitting is threaded into. A new ball joint has a boss projection of .050" (1.27 mm)
beyond cover surface.
2. With vehicle weight on wheels, check to see that wear indicator protrudes beyond surface of ball joint
cover. Replace ball joint if wear indicator is even with housing or recessed.
Removal
1. Remove brake caliper and wire aside. DO NOT hang caliper by flexible hose. Remove hub dust cap,
cotter pin, retainer nut and washer. Remove hub and rotor assembly.
2. Remove outer wheel bearing. Pry out inner bearing grease seal and discard. Remove inner bearing.
Inspect bearings for damage or excessive wear. Replace as needed. If necessary, drive out bearing races
using hammer and Wheel Bearing Race Remover (J-29117-A ).
Inspection
Wash wheel bearings and hub in solvent and dry with compressed air. DO NOT spin bearings with air.
Installation
1. If bearing races were removed, drive inner bearing race into position using hammer, Driver Handle (J-
8092 ) and Front Hub Bearing Race Installer (J-8850 ). Use hammer, driver handle and Front Hub
Bearing Race Installer (J-8457 ), to install outer bearing race. Lubricate bearings thoroughly.
2. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure. Adjust wheel bearings. See WHEEL BEARING
ADJUSTMENT under ADJUSTMENTS & CHECKING in this article.
SHOCK ABSORBERS
Removal
Raise and support vehicle. Using an open end wrench, hold upper stem from turning while removing upper stem
retaining nut, retainer and rubber grommet at top of shock absorber. Remove shock absorber-to-lower control
arm bolt. Remove shock absorber.
Inspection
1. On hydraulic fluid filled shock, purge air from pressure chamber by mounting in vise (top end up) and
fully extending unit. Reverse position (top end down) and fully collapse unit. Repeat procedure several
times.
2. Bench check shock unit by mounting in vise with top end up (top end down on gas-charged shocks). DO
NOT clamp on reservoir tube or mounting threads. Check rubber grommets for damage or deterioration
and replace as needed. Operate shock by hand at various rates of speed and note resistance. If resistance is
not smooth and constant, replace shocks.
Installation
STABILIZER BAR
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle. Remove bolt and link bushing assembly from each side of stabilizer bar. See
Fig. 1 . Components should be marked for installation in original location.
2. Remove bracket-to-frame (or body) mounting bolts. Remove stabilizer bar with rubber insulator bushings
and brackets. Inspect insulator bushings and link bolt grommets for damage or deterioration and replace
as necessary.
Installation
1. Apply rubber lubricant to insulator bushing contact areas of stabilizer bar. All components must be
installed in original location. Install insulator bushings onto bar with bushing slit toward front of vehicle.
Position stabilizer bar on frame with offset of bar installed in downward position.
NOTE: On Astro and Safari models, stabilizer bar must be installed with
identification forming on right side of vehicle.
2. Install bushing brackets squarely onto bushings. Loosely install mounting bolts. On Astro and Safari,
install link bolt components at lower control arms. Lower vehicle. Tighten all nuts and bolts to
specification.
3. On all other models, tighten bolts to specification. Ensure that link bushing assembly nut is even with
bottom of bolt.
COIL SPRINGS
Removal
1. Raise vehicle and support under frame, allowing control arms hang free. Remove lower shock absorber
mounting bolts. Push shock absorber upward through control arm and into coil spring.
2. Place Front Coil Spring Compressor (J-23028-01 ) onto an adjustable jack. Position spring compressor
and jack under lower control arm to cradle lower control arm inner bushings.
3. Remove stabilizer bar-to-lower control arm link bolt components. Raise jack to release spring tension on
lower control arm pivot bolts. Install a safety chain around spring and through lower control arm.
4. Remove lower control arm mounting bolts (rear bolt first). Carefully lower jack until all tension is
released from coil spring. Remove safety chain and spring from vehicle.
NOTE: Do not apply force on lower control arm and ball joint to remove spring. Spring
can easily be removed by maneuvering spring.
Installation
1. Position spring on control arm. Ensure spring insulator is in place. Lift control arm with spring
compressor and jack. Ensure spring is properly positioned.
NOTE: Coil spring must be positioned with tape at lowest position. Bottom of
spring is coiled helical and top is coiled flat with a gripper notch near end
of spring coil.
2. Install lower control arm. Install pivot bolts (front bolt first). Pivot bolts must be installed with nuts
toward the rear of vehicle. To install remaining components, reverse removal procedure.
STEERING KNUCKLE
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle with jack stands, at front lift points. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Remove
brake caliper and hang out of work area.
2. Remove hub and rotor assembly. Remove splash shield. Separate tie rod end stud from steering knuckle
using Tie Rod Remover (J-6627 ).
3. If replacing knuckle, carefully remove knuckle grease seal. Position jack under lower control arm, near
spring seat. Raise jack until lower control arm is just supported.
4. Remove cotter pins and nuts from ball joints. Using Ball Joint Separator (J-23742), separate ball joint
studs from steering knuckle.
CAUTION: Lower control arm must be supported with floor jack during removal
and installation of steering knuckle.
5. Raise upper control arm to disengage ball joint stud from steering knuckle. Remove steering knuckle.
Inspection
Inspect tapered holes in steering knuckle for out-of-round, deformation or damage. Replace steering knuckle if
damaged.
Installation
1. Install upper and lower ball joint studs in steering knuckle and install nuts. Install shield over knuckle seal
and onto knuckle. Install tie rod end stud into knuckle bore.
2. Install Steering Linkage Installer (J-29193 ). Tighten steering linkage installer to 40 ft. lbs. (54 N.m) to
seat tie rod taper. Remove steering linkage installer. Install a new torque nut and tighten to specification.
3. Install hub and rotor assembly. Adjust wheel bearings. See WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT under
ADJUSTMENTS & CHECKING in this article. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
Check wheel alignment.
CAUTION: Floor jack must remain under control arm spring seat during removal and
installation.
Removal
1. Raise and support vehicle. Place jack under lower control arm spring seat. Remove tire and wheel
assembly. Remove ball joint stud cotter pin and stud nut. Position Ball Joint Separator (J-23742 ) between
ball joint studs. See Fig. 2 .
2. Extend ball joint separator to loosen ball joint stud from steering knuckle. Remove ball joint separator.
Pull steering knuckle from lower ball joint.
3. Place a wooden block between upper control arm and frame to keep steering knuckle assembly out of the
way. Ensure no tension exists on brake caliper hose. Remove grease seal and grease fitting from ball
joint.
4. Install "C" Clamp (J-9519-30 ), Adapter (J-9519-7 ) and Installer (J-9519-28 ) from Ball Joint Remover
and Installer Set (J-9519-D ) on lower ball joint. Rotate forcing screw on "C" clamp to press lower ball
joint from control arm bore. Remove ball joint.
Installation
1. Position new ball joint in lower control arm bore. Using "C" clamp and Installer (J-9519-9 ), press joint
into bore until it bottoms on control arm. Remove installer tools.
2. Position grease seal on ball joint so grease purge hole faces inward. Press grease seal on ball joint. Ensure
grease seal is fully seated on ball joint. To install remaining components, reverse removal procedure.
Lubricate ball joint fitting. Check and adjust wheel alignment.
Removal
1. Raise and support front of vehicle with jack stands positioned under lower control arms near ball joint.
Jack stands must remain under lower control arm during upper ball joint servicing.
2. Remove wheel and tire assembly. Remove cotter pin and upper ball joint stud nut. Install Ball Joint
Separator (J-23742 ) between the ball studs. Extend ball joint separator to separate ball joint stud from
steering knuckle. See Fig. 2 .
3. Remove ball joint separator. Remove ball joint stud from steering knuckle. Support steering knuckle
assembly to prevent damage to brake line. Using drill and a 1/8" (.125 mm) drill bit, drill a 1/4" (.250
mm) deep hole in ball joint retaining rivets. Using a 1/2" (.50 mm) drill bit, drill out the rivet heads. Using
a hammer and small punch, drive out rivets and remove ball joint assembly.
Fig. 2: Separating Ball Joint Stud & Steering Knuckle
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Use nuts and bolts in place of rivets to attach ball joint to control arm.
Lubricate new ball joint. Adjust wheel bearing. See WHEEL BEARING ADJUSTMENT under
ADJUSTMENTS & CHECKING in this article. Check wheel alignment.
Removal
1. Raise and support front of vehicle under lower control arms, between spring seats and ball joints. Remove
wheel and tire. Place floor jack under lower control arm spring seat.
2. Note location of alignment shims for reassembly. Remove control arm retaining nuts and remove
alignment shims. Remove cotter pin and upper ball joint stud nut. Install Ball Joint Separator (J-23742 )
between the ball studs. Extend ball joint separator to separate ball joint stud from steering knuckle. See
Fig. 2 .
3. Support rotor and hub assembly to prevent damage to brake hose. Lift upper control arm and remove
upper control arm mounting bolts. Remove upper control arm.
1. With upper control arm removed from vehicle, remove nuts from ends of pivot shaft. Position control arm
assembly in a soft-jawed vise.
2. Using Bushing Remover (J-22269-1 ), a slotted washer and a short piece of pipe (slightly larger than
bushing), press bushing and pivot shaft from control arm. Repeat procedure for opposite bushing.
3. To install bushings, place pivot shaft in control arm. Using Bushing Installer (J-22269-1 ) and small piece
of pipe with the same O.D. as the bushing, press new bushing into control arm bore and onto pivot shaft.
4. Ensure each bushing is positioned .48-.52" (12.8-13.8 mm) from face of control arm to bushing outer
sleeve. Repeat procedure for opposite side bushing. Install nuts onto pivot shaft ends.
Installation
Removal
Remove coil spring. See COIL SPRINGS under REMOVAL & INSTALLATION in this article. Remove
cotter pin, nut and separate lower ball joint stud from steering knuckle. Remove steering knuckle from lower
control arm. Remove lower control arm.
1. Using a blunt chisel, drive front bushing flare down even with rubber of bushing. Install control arm
bushing service set. On Astro and Safari, set includes Receiver (J-21474-5 ), Nut (J-21474-18 ), Bolt (J-
21474-19 ), Spacer (J-22474-23 ) and Spacer (J-23737 ).
2. On "S" series, set includes Receiver (J-21474-5 ), Nut (J-21474-18 ), Bolt (J-21474-19 ), Spacer (J-
22474-23 and J-22222-5 ). On all models, press front bushing from control arm.
3. To install front bushing, assemble control arm bushing service set. On Astro and Safari, use Bolt (J-
21474-20 ) and Spacer (J-23737 ) with removal components.
4. On "S" series, use Washer (J-21474-8 ) with removal components to install new bushing. Position new
bushing in control arm bore. Press bushing into bore.
5. Installed bushings must be flared. On Astro and Safari, install Bushing Flaring Die (J-21474-2 ), Installer
(J-21474-13 ), Nut (J-21474-18 ), Bushing Flare (J-23915 ), Bolt (J-21474-19 ) and Spacer (J-23737 ).
6. On "S" series, install Bushing Flaring Die (J-21474-2 ), Spacer (J-21474-12 ), Installer (J-21474-13 ) and
Nut (J-21474-18 ). Turn nut on flaring tool until bushing is flared approximately 45 degrees. Remove
bushing flaring die.
7. To remove rear pivot shaft bushing, install Receiver (J-21474-5 ), Washer (J-21474-8 ), Spacer (J-21474-
12 ), Nut (J-21474-18 ), Bolt (J-21474-19 ). Press bushing from bore.
8. Assemble control arm bushing service set. Set includes Nut (J-21474-18 ), Bolt (J-21474-19 ), Spacer (J-
21474-12 ) and Receiver (J-21474-5 ) over new bushing positioned in bore. On Astro and Safari, also
install Spacer (J-21474-20 ). Press bushing into position until bottomed against control arm.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure using NEW nuts on control arm bolts. Control arm bolts must be installed
with the bolt head toward front of vehicle. Tighten bolts to specification with weight of vehicle on its wheels.
Check wheel alignment.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Ball Joint-To-Control Arm Bolt 17 (23)
Brake Rotor Splash Shield Mounting Bolt 10 (14)
Bumper Mounting Bolt
Astro & Safari 22 (30)
"S" Series 20 (27)
Lower Ball Joint Stud Nut
"S" Series 83 (113)
All Others 90 (122)
Lower Control Arm To-Frame Pivot Bolt
Astro, Safari (1) 96 (130)
"S" Series
Front Bolt (1) 94 (127)
Shock Absorber
To-Lower Control Arm Mounting Bolt
Astro & Safari 18 (24)
"C" & "S" Series 20 (27)
Upper Mounting Nut
Astro & Safari 11 (15)
"C" & "S" Series (2)
Stabilizer Bar
Insulator Bracket-To-Frame Mounting Bolt
Astro & Safari (3) 27 (37)
"C" & "S" Series (4) 24 (33)
(4) Nut must be at least even with bottom of bolt after tightening to specification.
WIRING DIAGRAMS
IDENTIFICATION
WIRING DIAGRAMS
Fig. 1: Engine Compartment & Headlights
Fig. 2: Computer Engine Control (2.5L)
Fig. 3: Computer Engine Control (2.8L, 4.3L)
Fig. 4: Fuse Block
Fig. 5: Wiper/Washer System, Instrument Panel Switches
Fig. 6: Instrument Panel
Fig. 7: Passenger Compartment, Taillights
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS
APPLICATIONS
THM 3L30 APPLICATIONS (1987 & 1990)
Manufacturer Model Engine
Chevrolet Postal Vehicle 2.5L
GMC Postal Vehicle 2.5L
NOTE: This article contains test charts that are part of General Motors Computerized
Engine Controls. Only those charts required to test Torque Converter Clutch
(TCC) system and related circuits are included. Other diagnostic codes may
appear while performing TCC electrical diagnosis. For complete information on
General Motors Computerized Engine Control systems see appropriate
COMPUTERIZED ENGINE CONTROLS article in ENGINE PERFORMANCE
section.
DESCRIPTION
OVERVIEW
The Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) assembly consists of a 3-element torque converter with the addition of a
converter clutch. The converter clutch is an internal mechanism with friction material attached to front face. It is
splined to the turbine assembly in converter.
The purpose of the torque converter clutch feature is to eliminate power loss due to slippage when vehicle is
cruising. This allows the convenience of an automatic transmission and the fuel economy of a manual
transmission.
When the TCC solenoid ground circuit is completed by the Electronic Control Module (ECM), the torque
converter clutch is applied, resulting in a direct mechanical coupling between engine and transmission. When
TCC solenoid is deactivated, the torque converter clutch is released, allowing torque converter clutch to operate
in a conventional manner.
The following components are used to engage/disengage torque converter clutch. Not all components will be
present on all vehicles.
Brake Switch
Power from ignition switch passes through brake switch to TCC solenoid. When brake pedal is depressed with
TCC engaged, power to TCC solenoid is interrupted, releasing converter clutch and preventing engine from
stalling.
This sensor provides ECM with engine coolant temperature information. ECM will not allow TCC operation
until signal from this sensor indicates coolant temperature greater than 130-150°F (55-65°C).
To determine application of torque converter clutch, ECM receives and processes information from various
input devices. On the most sophisticated vehicles, these devices may include the vehicle speed sensor, coolant
temperature sensor, throttle position sensor, 3rd or 4th gear switch and brake switch. The ECM controls
application of torque converter clutch by providing a ground circuit for the TCC solenoid circuit.
Energized by ECM to redirect transaxle fluid to the converter clutch apply valve in the auxiliary control valve
assembly.
Provides ECM with throttle position information. TCC operation is prevented when throttle position signal is
less than a specified value.
Vacuum Sensor
This sensor sends vehicle speed information to ECM. Vehicle speed must be greater than a certain value before
TCC can be applied. Two types of speed sensor are used. A light emitting diode type is used in the instrument
cluster on some models. Other models use a Permanent Magnet (PM) generator mounted in the transmission.
When open, 3rd and 4th gear switches prevent TCC operation. Switch status may be monitored by ECM, or
switch may be an integral portion (series circuit) of TCC solenoid power supply.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
NOTE: Every diagnosis of automatic transmission problems should begin with a check
of the transmission fluid and linkage. Most of the following conditions can be
caused by one or more of the following factors: (1) Incorrect fluid level, (2)
Contaminated fluid, (3) Improperly adjusted linkage, or (4) Damaged or worn
linkage. When diagnosing Converter Clutch problems, ensure engine and
vacuum systems are in perfect operating order.
z Verify Electronic Control Module (ECM) operation. See appropriate CHART C-8 in this article.
Electrical Problems
z Voltage not reaching transmission. Ensure 12 volts reach transmission to engage solenoid.
z Ground inside transmission. Ensure solenoid is not grounded inside case.
z Defective connector, wiring harness, or solenoid. Check and repair or replace as required. Defective
pressure switch (if equipped). Check and replace pressure switch as required.
z 3rd and 4th gear switch inoperative. Check and replace switch(es) as required.
z Sticking converter clutch shift and/or apply valve. Clean, service and/or replace valve body as required.
z Sticking throttle valve. Clean, service and/or replace valve body as required.
z Inspect valve body and service as required.
z Orifice plugged for converter signal oil in pump. Clean and inspect orifice for blockage.
z Solenoid "O" ring damaged or missing. Check and replace "O" ring.
z Oil pump wear plate or gasket mispositioned or damaged. Check and replace wear plate or gasket.
z Improper torque on oil pump-to-converter housing bolts. Tighten bolts to specifications.
z Turbine shaft seals damaged. Check and replace seals.
z Orifice cup plug omitted form cooler in passage. Check and install plug.
z Check and replace converter clutch blow-off check ball if not seated or if damaged. Check and replace
torque converter clutch accumulator piston or seal if damaged.
z Converter clutch pressure plate faulty. Check plate for damage and service as required.
z Damaged or missing check ball in end of turbine shaft. Check and replace turbine shaft, if required.
z Converter clutch regulator valve stuck. Clean, service and/or replace valve body as required.
z Converter clutch accumulator piston or seal damaged. Check and service as required.
z Channel plate seals damaged or missing. Check and service as required.
z Solenoid does not exhaust. Verify Electronic Control Module operation. See appropriate CHART C-8 in
this article.
z Converter clutch apply valve stuck. Clean, service and/or replace valve body as required.
z Check damaged converter. Replace torque converter.
z Cup plug missing from pump release passage. Check and replace plug or pump assembly.
z Turbine shaft end seal damaged or missing. Check and replace end seal or turbine shaft as required.
z Hole not drilled through turbine shaft. Replace turbine shaft.
TESTING & DIAGNOSIS
DIAGNOSTIC TOOLS
Diagnosis of the TCC system may be performed by following the appropriate C-8 chart for the
transmission/engine application in question. When utilizing these charts, specific tools which may be required
are a tachometer, test light, ohmmeter, digital voltmeter with 10-megohm input impedance (minimum), and 6
jumper wires 6" long (1 wire with female connectors at both ends; 1 wire with male connector at both ends; 4
wires with male and female connectors at opposite ends). A test light, rather than a voltmeter, must be used
when indicated by a diagnostic chart(s).
NOTE: In the diagnostic and trouble code charts, special "Scan" testers are referred to
(and recommended) by the manufacturer to read data parameters and check
voltages in the system.
The ECM stores component failure information under a related trouble code which can be recalled later for
diagnosis and repair. When recalled, these codes can be displayed on a "Scan" tester, or by entering diagnostic
mode and observing flashes of the "CHECK ENGINE" or "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light. It is NOT
necessary to enter diagnostic mode to use TCC test chart(s); however, it will be necessary to enter ECM
diagnostic mode to verify the presence of any codes.
NOTE: Even when using a "Scan" tester, it is recommended that the diagnostic mode
be accessed in advance to verify the computer's ability to self-diagnose.
1. To enter diagnostic mode, turn ignition on but do not start engine. "CHECK ENGINE" or "SERVICE
ENGINE SOON" light should glow. Locate Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL) connector attached
to ECM wiring harness under instrument panel. Insert jumper wire across diagnostic mode "test" terminal
"B" and ground terminal "A". See Fig. 2.
2. "CHECK ENGINE" or "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light should flash Code 12 ("FLASH", pause,
"FLASH", "FLASH") followed by a longer pause. Trouble Code 12 will be repeated 3 more times, then if
any trouble codes are stored in the ECM memory, they will be displayed in the same manner.
3. Trouble codes will be displayed from lowest to highest numbered codes (3 times each) and be repeated as
long as the "test" terminal of the ALDL connector is grounded.
4. To exit diagnostic mode, remove jumper wire from ALDL connector and turn ignition off.
NOTE: If Code 12 is not flashed when the ALDL diagnostic "test" terminal is grounded,
information received by a "Scan" tester on the serial data line may not be
accurate. For complete testing of the ECM's diagnostic circuit, see appropriate
COMPUTERIZED ENGINE CONTROLS article in ENGINE PERFORMANCE
section.
Trouble codes are cleared by removing battery voltage form ECM for at least 10 seconds. Ensure that "test"
terminal is not grounded. Turn ignition off and remove ECM fuse from fuse block for 10 seconds and then
reinsert it. Another way of removing battery voltage is to disconnect the battery positive cable (or pigtail) from
the battery for 10 seconds and then reconnect it. In either case, ensure the ignition switch is in the "OFF"
position before removing battery voltage. Otherwise, a voltage spike could occur and damage the ECM.
OUTPUT DISPLAYS
When trouble shooting a malfunction, the ECM and BCM output cycling can be used to determine if output
tests can be actuated regardless of the inputs and normal program instructions. Once a test in outputs is selected,
except for ECM IAC, the test will display "HI" or "LO" for 3 seconds in each state to indicate the command and
output terminal voltage. When ECM output "EO01" is entered, the torque converter clutch display will be "LO"
when TCC is on (energized.)
DIAGNOSTIC CHARTS
CHART C-8, TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH - 2.5L & 2.8L
The purpose of TCC is to eliminate the power loss of torque converter stage when vehicle is in "cruise"
condition. This allows the use of an automatic transmission with the fuel economy of a manual transmission.
Fused battery ignition power is supplied to TCC solenoid through the TCC brake switch. The ECM will engage
TCC by grounding circuit No. 422 to energize the TCC solenoid. Engagement of torque converter clutch will be
executed under the following conditions:
Diagnostic Aids
Solenoid coil resistance must measure more than 20 ohms. Less resistance will cause early failure of the ECM
"DRIVER". Using an ohmmeter, check solenoid coil resistance of all ECM-controlled solenoids and relays
before replacing ECM. Replace any solenoid or relay that measures less than 20 ohms resistance.
Fig. 4: Chart C-8, TCC - 2.5L & 2.8L Flowchart
The purpose of TCC is to eliminate the power loss of torque converter stage when vehicle is in "cruise"
condition. This allows the use of an automatic transmission with the fuel economy of a manual transmission.
Fused battery ignition power is supplied to TCC solenoid through the TCC brake switch. The ECM will engage
TCC by grounding circuit No. 422 to energize the TCC solenoid. Engagement of torque converter clutch will be
executed under the following conditions:
1. Glowing test light indicates that battery voltage and continuity through TCC solenoid are okay.
2. Checks for vehicle speed sensor (VSS) signal to ECM, using a SCAN tester.
3. Checks for 4th gear signal to ECM. This signal will not prevent TCC engagement, but could cause a
change in engage/disengage speed points.
Diagnostic Aids
Solenoid coil resistance must measure more than 20 ohms. Less resistance will cause early failure of the ECM
"DRIVER". Using an ohmmeter, check solenoid coil resistance of all ECM-controlled solenoids and relays
before replacing ECM. Replace any solenoid or relay that measures less than 20 ohms resistance.
Fig. 6: Chart C-8, TCC - 4.3L, 5.0L 5.7L Flowchart (1 Of 2)
Fig. 7: Chart C-8, TCC - 4.3L, 5.0L 5.7L Flowchart (2 Of 2)
The ECM supplies and monitors 12-volts signal on circuit No. 437. Circuit No. 437 connects Vehicle Speed
Sensor (VSS) which alternately grounds circuit No. 437 when drive wheels are turning. This pulsating action
takes place about 2000 times per mile, and the ECM calculates vehicle speed based on time between "pulses".
SCAN tester reading should closely match speedometer reading with drive wheels turning.
NOTE: Test numbers refer to test numbers on diagnostic chart.
1. This monitors ECM voltage on circuit No. 437. With wheels turning, pulsing action will result in varying
voltage. Variation will be greater at low wheel speeds to an average of 4-6 volts at about 20 MPH.
2. Voltage of less than one volt at ECM connector indicates that circuit No. 437 is shorted to ground.
Disconnect circuit No. 437 at VSS. If voltage now reads greater than 10 volts, VSS is faulty. If voltage
remains less than 10, circuit No. 437 is grounded. If circuit No. 437 is not grounded, check for faulty
ECM connector or ECM.
3. Steady 8-12 volts at ECM connector indicates circuit No. 437 is open, or faulty VSS.
4. This is normal voltage that indicates possible intermittent condition.
Diagnostic Aids
SCAN tester reading should closely match speedometer reading with drive wheels turning. See
PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH DIAGNOSIS chart if vehicle is equipped with automatic transmission. If
Park/Neutral switch is okay, see INTERMITTENT TROUBLE CODES in TROUBLE SHOOTING section.
Fig. 8: Code 24, VSS Flowchart
CHART C-1A, PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH
The Park/Neutral switch contacts are closed to ground in Park or Neutral, and open in all Drive ranges. The
ECM supplies ignition voltage, through a current limiting resistor, to circuit No. 434. The ECM senses a closed
switch when voltage on circuit No. 434 drops to less than one volt. The ECM uses Park/Neutral signal as one of
the inputs to control idle air, VSS diagnostics, and EGR flow.
1. Checks for closed switch to ground in Park position. Different makes of "SCAN" testers will read
Park/Neutral signal differently. Refer to testers instruction manual for type of display used for specific
tester.
2. Checks for an open switch in Drive or Reverse.
3. Be sure SCAN tester indicates Drive, even while wiggling shifter, to test for an intermittent or
misadjusted switch in Drive.
Diagnostic Aids
If circuit No. 434 indicates Park/Neutral switch grounded while in Drive, EGR would be inoperative, resulting
in possible detonation. If circuit No. 434 always indicates Drive (open), a drop in idle may exist when gear
selector is moved into Drive.
Fig. 9: Chart C-1A, P/N Switch Flowchart
CODE 24, VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT FAULT COMPUTER COMMAND CONTROL
The ECM supplies and monitors 12-volt signal on circuit No. 437. Circuit No. 437 connects Vehicle Speed
Sensor (VSS) which alternately grounds circuit No. 437 when drive wheels are turning. This pulsating action
takes place about 2000 times per mile. The ECM calculates vehicle speed based on time between pulses.
"SCAN" tester readings should closely match speedometer reading with drive wheels turning.
Code 24 will set under the following conditions:
1. This test monitors ECM voltage on circuit No. 437. With wheels turning, pulsing action will result in
varying voltage. Variation will be greater at low wheel speed to an average of 4-6 volts at about 20 MPH.
2. A voltage of less than one volt at ECM connector indicates that circuit No. 437 is shorted to ground.
Disconnect circuit No. 437 at VSS. If voltage now reads above 10 volts, VSS is faulty. If voltage remains
less than 10 volts, circuit No. 437 is grounded. If circuit No. 437 is not grounded, check for faulty ECM
connector or ECM.
3. A steady 8-12 volts at ECM connector indicates circuit No. 437 is open, or a faulty VSS.
4. This is a normal voltage condition and indicates a possible intermittent condition.
Diagnostic Aids
SCAN tester reading should closely match speedometer reading with drive wheels turning. See
PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH DIAGNOSIS chart if vehicle is equipped with automatic transmission. If
Park/Neutral switch is okay, see INTERMITTENT TROUBLE CODES in TROUBLE SHOOTING section.
NOTE: Disregard CODE 24 if set while drive wheels are not turning.
Fig. 10: Code 24, VSS Circuit Fault - Computer Command Control Flowchart
CODE 25, MANIFOLD AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR VOLTAGE LOW - COMPUTER COMMAND
CONTROL (2.5L ENGINE ONLY)
The Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) sensor uses a thermistor to control signal voltage to ECM. The ECM
applies 4-6 volts on circuit No. 472 to sensor. When air is cold, sensor resistance is high, therefore, ECM will
see high voltage signal. If air is warm, sensor resistance is low, therefore, ECM will see low voltage.
Diagnostic Aids
SCAN tester reads temperature of incoming air. This reading should be close to ambient air temperature when
engine is cold, and rise as underhood air temperature increases. Carefully check harness and connections for
possible short to ground in circuit No. 472. See INTERMITTENT TROUBLE CODES in TROUBLE
SHOOTING section. The MAT SENSOR TEMP VS. RESISTANCE VALUE table may be used to test MAT
sensor at various temperatures to evaluate possibility of "slewed" (mis-scaled) sensor. A "slewed" sensor could
result in poor driveability complaints.
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor measures manifold pressure (vacuum) and sends that signal to
the ECM. The MAP sensor is mainly used for fuel calculation, when ECM is running in the throttle body back-
up mode. The MAP sensor is also used to determine barometric pressure and to help calculate fuel delivery.
1. This test checks MAP sensor output voltage to ECM. With engine off, this voltage represents barometric
reading at ECM.
2. Applying 10 in. Hg vacuum to MAP sensor should cause voltage to be about 1.2-2.3 volts less than
voltage in step 1. Upon applying vacuum to sensor, the change in voltage should be immediate. A slow
voltage change indicates a faulty sensor.
3. Check vacuum hose to sensor for leaks or restrictions. Be sure no other vacuum devices are connected to
MAP sensor vacuum hose.
Fig. 12: MAP Output Check - Computer Command Control Flowchart
The Park/Neutral switch contacts are closed to ground in Park or Neutral, and open in all Drive ranges. The
ECM supplies ignition voltage, through a current limiting resistor, to circuit No. 434. The ECM senses a closed
switch when voltage in circuit No. 434 drops to less than one volt. The ECM uses The Park/Neutral signal as
one of the inputs to control idle air, VSS diagnostics, and EGR flow.
1. Checks for closed switch to ground in Park position. Different makes of "SCAN" tester will read
Park/Neutral signal differently. Refer to testers instruction manual for type of display used for specific
tester.
2. Checks for an open switch in Drive or Reverse.
3. Be sure SCAN tester indicates Drive, even while wiggling shifter, to test for an intermittent or
misadjusted switch in Drive.
Diagnostic Aids
If circuit No. 434 indicates Park/Neutral switch grounded while in Drive, EGR would be inoperative, resulting
in possible detonation. If circuit No. 434 always indicates Drive (open), a drop in idle may exist when gear
selector is moved into Drive.
Fig. 13: P/N Switch Diagnosis - Computer Command Control Flowchart
The purpose of Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) is to eliminate the power loss of torque converter stage when
vehicle is in a cruise condition. This allows the use of an automatic transmission with the fuel economy of a
manual transmission.
Fused battery ignition power is supplied to TCC solenoid through the TCC brake switch. The ECM will engage
TCC by grounding circuit No. 422 to energize the TCC solenoid.
1. This test checks continuity through brake switch and TCC solenoid.
2. This test checks ability of ECM to energize TCC solenoid. Grounding diagnostic connector should
energize relay and cause light to go out.
3. This test by-passes TCC solenoid and checks for an open or short in circuit No. 422.
Diagnostic Aids
Solenoid coil resistance must measure more than 20 ohms. Less resistance will cause early failure of the ECM
driver. Before replacing ECM, check solenoid coil resistance of all ECM controlled solenoids and relays.
Replace any solenoid or relay that measures less than 20 ohms resistance.
Fig. 15: TCC Electrical Diagnosis - Computer Command Control (2.5L & 2.8L) Flowchart
Fig. 16: TCC Circuit Schematic (4.3L, 5.0L & 5.7L CCC)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
The purpose of TCC is to eliminate the power loss of torque converter stage when vehicle is in "cruise"
condition. This allows the use of an automatic transmission with the fuel economy of a manual transmission.
Fused battery ignition power is supplied to TCC solenoid through the TCC brake switch. The ECM will engage
TCC by grounding circuit No. 422 to energize the TCC solenoid. Engagement of torque converter clutch will be
executed under the following conditions:
1. Glowing test light indicates that battery voltage and continuity through TCC solenoid are okay.
2. Checks for vehicle speed sensor (VSS) signal to ECM, using a SCAN tester.
3. Checks for 4th gear signal to ECM. This signal will not prevent TCC engagement, but could cause a
change in engage/disengage speed points.
Diagnostic Aids
Solenoid coil resistance must measure more than 20 ohms. Less resistance will cause early failure of the ECM
"DRIVER". Using an ohmmeter, check solenoid coil resistance of all ECM-controlled solenoids and relays
before replacing ECM. Replace any solenoid or relay that measures less than 20 ohms resistance.
Fig. 17: TCC Electrical Diagnosis - Computer Command Control (4.3L, 5.0L & 5.7L Under 8500 GVW)
Fig. 18: TCC Electrical Diagnosis - Computer Command Control (4.3L, 5.0L & 5.7L Under 8500 GVW)
Circuit Description
When accelerator pedal is fully depressed, manifold vacuum drops, causing MAP sensor signal voltage to
increase to about 4 volts. The ECM responds by grounding circuit No. 422 to energize downshift control relay.
The downshift control relay then sends battery voltage to detent solenoid that causes a forced transmission
downshift.
Diagnostic Aids
Relay coil resistance must measure more than 20 ohms. Less resistance will cause early failure of the ECM
"DRIVER". Using an ohmmeter, check solenoid coil resistance of all ECM-controlled solenoids and relays
before replacing ECM. Replace any solenoid or relay that measures less than 20 ohms resistance.
Fig. 19: Downshift Control Diagnosis Flow Chart - (4L60 CCC TBI)
Fig. 20: THM 400 Downshift Control Electrical Diagnosis Schematic
The throttle Position Sensor (TPS) is a variable resistor that informs the ECM the degree of throttle opening.
The sensor is connected to a 5-volt reference signal and has a high resistance value at closed throttle. At wide
open throttle, TPS resistance is at its lowest and output to the ECM will be close to 5 volts. Code 23 means that
the ECM has seen the following: voltage not between .25-1.35 volts at ECM terminal "A2" for at least 30
seconds, with engine speed between 550-650 RPM.
Diagnostic Aids
Disregard Code 23 if SERVICE ENGINE SOON light goes out as soon as throttle is returned to idle.
Fig. 21: Code 23, TPS Misadjusted - Diesel Electronic Control System Flowchart
CONTROL SYSTEM
Fig. 22: Code 24 - VSS Circuit Schematic (Diesel Electronic Control System)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
The ECM applies and monitors 12 volts on circuit No. 437. This circuit connects the Vehicle Speed Sensor
(VSS), which alternately grounds circuit No. 437 when drive wheels are turning. This pulsating action takes
place about 2000 times per mile and the ECM will calculate vehicle speed based on the time between pulses.
SCAN tester reading should closely match speedometer reading with drive wheels turning.
Code 24 will set if: circuit No. 437 is constant, engine speed is more than 200 RPM, vehicle speed signal at
terminal ECM "A9" is less than 10 MPH, all conditions are met for at least 10 seconds.
1. This test monitors the ECM voltage on circuit No. 437. With wheels turning, the pulsating action will
result in a varying voltage. The variation will be greater at low wheel speeds to an average of 4-6 volts at
about 20 MPH.
2. A voltage of less than one volt at ECM connector indicates that circuit No. 437 wire is shorted to ground.
Disconnect wire at VSS. If voltage now reads above 10 volts, the VSS is faulty. If voltage remains less
than 10 volts, then wire is grounded. If circuit No. 437 is not grounded, check for a faulty ECM connector
or ECM.
3. A steady 8-12 volt reading at the ECM connector indicates the circuit No. 437 is open or VSS is faulty.
4. Normal voltage indicates a possible intermittent condition.
Diagnostic Aids
With drive wheels turning, SCAN tester reading should closely match with speedometer reading.
Fig. 23: Code 24, VSS Circuit - Diesel Electronic Control System Flowchart
The purpose of the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) is to eliminate the power loss of the torque converter stage
when the vehicle is in a cruise condition. This allows the convenience of an automatic transmission and the fuel
economy of a manual transmission.
Fused battery voltage is supplied to the TCC solenoid through the TCC brake switch. The ECM will engage
TCC by grounding circuit No. 422 to energize the TCC apply solenoid inside the transmission. The ECM
completes circuit whenever TCC apply solenoid inside the transmission. The ECM completes circuit whenever
TPS exceeds a calibrated value for throttle opening.
1. This test checks for a complete circuit, from ignition switch, through solenoid, and up to test point. Test
light should normally be on, since the ECM had not completed circuit.
2. This test checks for continuity through TCC brake switch and TCC apply solenoid.
3. This test checks for ECM to complete circuit to ground, to energize TCC apply solenoid and engage
TCC. Test light should normally go out when ECM completes circuit.
4. This test checks for TPS signal. If signal to ECM is correct, fault is in ECM connection or ECM. If TPS
voltage signal to ECM is incorrect, proper operation will not occur.
5. This test checks for ground in circuit to ECM terminal "C5". Test light should normally be off.
6. This test checks for voltage to terminal "A" of TCC connector. Test light should normally be on.
7. This test checks for a complete circuit from voltage to ground, via TCC test terminal in ALDL connector.
Normally, test light should come on, if harness is good.
Diagnostic Aids
Solenoid coil resistance must measure more than 20 ohms. A lower resistance value will cause early failure of
the ECM driver. Check the solenoid coil resistance of all ECM controlled solenoids and relays, before installing
replacement ECM. Replace any solenoid or relay that measures less than 20 ohms resistance.
Fig. 25: TCC Electrical Diagnosis - Diesel Electronic Control System Flowchart
TRANSFER CASES
APPLICATION
An identification tag is attached to the rear case half. See Fig. 1. The tag provides the transfer case model
number, low range reduction ratio and assembly part number.
DESCRIPTION
The transfer case is used to provide power flow to the front axle. The transfer case also provides a means of
disconnecting the front axle, allowing better fuel economy and quieter operation when the vehicle is driven on
improved roads where four-wheel drive is not required. In addition, the transfer case provides an additional gear
reduction when placed in low range, which is useful when difficult off-road conditions are encountered.
A New Process Model 231 transfer case is used on all vehicles covered in this article. The Model 231 is an
aluminum cased, chain-driven unit with 4 modes of operation: neutral, 2-wheel drive high range, 4-wheel drive
high range, and 4-wheel drive low range. Gear reduction for low range is provided by a planetary gear set.
A floor-mounted shift lever is used to select the desired operating range. Refer to TRANSFER CASE
SHIFTING PROCEDURE TABLE (4WD) and Fig. Fig. 2. Indicator lights on the floor console show the
current mode of operation. When 4-wheel drive has been selected, the 4-wheel drive indicator light will come
on when the front axle has engaged. A slight delay for the front axle indicator light to come on is normal.
OPERATION
TRANSFER CASE SHIFTING PROCEDURE (4WD)
When the transfer case is in "2 WHEEL" range, torque flows from the input gear to the range shift hub and
mainshaft, through the drive shaft, to the rear axle. A switch in the shifter mechanism causes the "2 WHEEL"
indicator light to turn on.
1. A switch in the shifter mechanism causes the "2 WHEEL" indicator light to turn off and the "4 HIGH"
indicator light to turn on. The front axle indicator light does not come on immediately.
2. Torque flows from the input gear to the mainshaft the same as in "2 WHEEL" position. The shift linkage
moves the mode synchronizer sleeve into engagement with the clutch teeth of the drive sprocket. This
locks the drive sprocket to the mainshaft through the synchronizer sleeve.
3. Torque is transmitted through the drive sprocket and drive chain to the driven sprocket and output shaft.
Torque then flows through the front drive shaft to the front axle.
4. The shift mechanism in the transfer case triggers a vacuum switch. See Fig. 3. Engine vacuum is then
applied to a vacuum actuator, mounted on the right fender well, after a delay of about three seconds. The
delay is provided by a restrictor orifice. The delay allows the system to synchronize properly.
5. The vacuum actuator pulls a cable, which pulls the shift fork in the front axle. This connects the right axle
output shaft to the front axle differential. Torque now is available at the front wheels.
6. The front axle shift mechanism, when fully engaged, closes a switch, causing the front axle indicator light
to come on. For more information on the front axle shift mechanism and vacuum actuator, see appropriate
DRIVE AXLE - FRONT article in the DRIVE AXLES section.
7. If the shift lever is moved back to "2 WHEEL" position, the operation in the preceding steps is reversed.
In addition, when the transfer case switch turns the vacuum to the vacuum actuator off, it connects the
vacuum actuator hose to atmosphere through a vent hose. The actuator can then return to the two-wheel
drive position.
Fig. 3: Vacuum Actuator System
1. When the transfer case is shifted into "4 LOW" position, torque flow and operation are similar to "4
HIGH" range, except that the range shift hub engages the planetary carrier. The planetary gear set then
provides a gear reduction of 2.72:1 to both the front and rear axles.
2. A switch in the shifter mechanism causes the "4 HIGH" indicator light to turn off and the "4 LOW"
indicator light to turn on.
SERVICING
TROUBLE SHOOTING
FOUR WHEEL DRIVE DOES NOT ENGAGE
TESTING
TEST A - SELECTOR QUADRANT SWITCH TEST
Measure Continuity at Selector Quadrant Switch with switch disconnected. If continuity does not exist at any or
all terminals replace the Selector Quadrant Switch. If continuity does exist, refer to the Symptom Table.
Check for voltage at Indicator Assembly while connected with Selector Quadrant Switch Disconnected.
Measure Voltage From (C2) 1-5 and (C1) 1 & 5 to Ground. See WIRING DIAGRAMS. If test lamp does not
lights replace Indicator Assembly.
Check for voltage at C190 with Front Axle Switch connected and Selector Quadrant in detent position 2 or 4.
Measure from A and B to Ground, if tests lamps lights refer to the Symptom Table. If test lamp does not light,
Check WHT(150) wire or WHT(156) wire for a open. See WIRING DIAGRAMS. If an open was found,
replace front axle switch.
OVERHAUL
TORQUE SPECIFICATION
WIRING DIAGRAMS
Fig. 5: Indicator Light Wiring Schematic
Fig. 6: 4WD Indicator & Front Axle Switch Wiring Schematic (1996 Chevrolet S10)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
TRANSFER CASES
IDENTIFICATION
An aluminum identification tag is attached under a self-tapping case bolts at bottom of transfer case. This tag
provides part number, serial number and build date.
DESCRIPTION
The Borg-Warner Model 4472 transfer case is a full-time All-Wheel Drive (AWD) unit. It is chain-driven and
has a 3-piece aluminum case. Torque distribution is by viscous clutch. Torque is divided at a ratio of 1:3 to the
front and 2:3 to the rear.
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE
FRONT & REAR OUTPUT SHAFT OIL SEALS
Removal
Raise vehicle, and disconnect front and/or rear drive shaft. Remove front output shaft flange nut and steel flat
washer. Remove rubber sealing washer and front output flange. Pry out output shaft oil seals using screwdriver.
DO NOT damage seal bore.
Installation
1. Lubricate seals with ATF. Install front oil seal using Output Shaft Seal Installer (J-37668). Install rear oil
seal by aligning water drain hole in output shaft oil seal with drain groove in extension housing.
2. Install front output shaft flange and rubber sealing washer. Install steel flat washer and flange nut. Tighten
nut to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Reconnect drive shafts, and check fluid level.
1. Raise vehicle, and drain transfer case. Remove skid plate and heat shield. Remove front and rear drive
shafts. Disconnect breather hose and electrical connections at transfer case.
2. Support transfer case with suitable jack. Remove transfer case support brace and adapter-to-transfer case
bolts. Remove transfer case mount nuts and washers.
3. To install, reverse removal procedures. Ensure mating surfaces are clean, and install new gasket. Tighten
bolts and nuts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
OVERHAUL
TRANSFER CASE
Disassembly
1. Remove front output flange nut. Remove steel flat washer, rubber sealing washer and output flange from
front output shaft. Remove speed sensor bolt and speed sensor from extension housing. See Fig. 1.
2. Remove front cover bolts from rear case half, and remove front cover by prying case tabs apart. Remove
front output shaft, drive chain and driven sprocket from rear case half. Remove input shaft from sun gear
shaft.
3. Remove, as an assembly, sun gear shaft, sun gear shaft bearing, drive sprocket spacer, drive sprocket,
viscous clutch and sun gear shaft thrust washer from planet carrier assembly. Remove planet carrier
assembly and thrust washer from output shaft assembly.
4. Remove extension housing bolts and breather assembly from extension housing. Remove extension
housing from rear case half. Remove output shaft snap ring from output shaft bearing.
5. Remove gear ring snap ring and output shaft assembly from gear ring. Remove front output shaft oil seal,
input shaft oil seal, output shaft bearing snap ring and output shaft bearing from front cover. Remove rear
output shaft oil seal from extension housing.
6. Press sun gear shaft bearing from sun gear shaft. Remove drive sprocket spacer, drive sprocket and
viscous clutch from sun gear shaft.
7. Remove input shaft pilot bearing from output shaft assembly. Remove output shaft rear bearing from rear
case half.
Fig. 1: Exploded View of Borg-Warner 4472 Transfer Case
Courtesy of FORD MOTOR CO.
Clean all parts with solvent and dry with compressed air. Replace all oil seals, "O" rings and snap rings. Check
all parts for wear or damage. Replace all worn or damaged parts.
Reassembly
1. Install viscous clutch, drive sprocket, drive sprocket spacer and sun gear shaft bearing onto sun gear shaft.
Install input shaft pilot bearing into output shaft assembly. Install output shaft assembly to gear ring, and
install gear ring snap ring.
2. Install front output shaft bearing and bearing snap ring to front cover. Install rear output shaft bearing to
rear case half.
3. Install output shaft assembly and gear ring through rear case half. Install output shaft bearing snap ring to
output bearing. Apply an 1/8" bead of RTV silicone to rear case half extension housing sealing surface.
4. Install extension housing and bolts to rear case half. Tighten bolts to specification. Install speed sensor
and speed sensor bolt into extension housing. Tighten to specification. See TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS.
5. Align water drain hole in rear output shaft oil seal with drain groove in extension housing, and press seal
into extension housing.
6. Using petroleum jelly, install planet carrier assembly thrust washer to output shaft assembly and align
with input shaft pilot bearing. Install planet carrier assembly into gear ring. Install sun gear shaft thrust
washer to planet carrier assembly.
7. Install sun gear shaft assembly into planet carrier assembly planet gears, and align viscous clutch teeth
with gear ring spline. Install input shaft into input shaft pilot bearing, aligning input shaft with sun gear
shaft thrust washer and planet carrier assembly thrust washer.
8. Install driven sprocket onto front output shaft, and install drive chain onto driven sprocket. Install drive
chain over drive sprocket, and install front output shaft into output shaft rear bearing. Install front output
shaft spacer and magnet.
9. Apply 1/8" bead of RTV silicone to rear case half front cover sealing surface. Install front cover and bolts
to rear case. Tighten bolts to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS.
10. Install front output shaft oil seal and input shaft oil seal. Install front output flange, rubber washer, steel
flat washer and a new front output flange nut. Tighten flange nut to specification.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Adapter-To-Transfer Case Half Bolts 30 (42)
Adapter-To-Transmission Bolts 38 (52)
Drain & Fill Plugs 18 (24)
Extension Housing Bolts 30 (42)
Front Cover Bolts 30 (42)
Front Output Shaft Flange Nut 80 (108)
Speed Sensor Bolt 12 (16)
Support Brace-To-Transfer Case Bolts 74 (100)
Transfer Case Mount Nuts 26 (35)
TRANSFER CASES
Chrysler Corp., GM Corp., Jeep - New Process 207 & 231 Overhaul
IDENTIFICATION
Transfer case can be identified by an I.D. tag, located on rear case. I.D. tag provides model number, serial
number and low range ratio. Date of manufacture is the serial number (I.D. number). This information is
necessary when ordering parts.
DESCRIPTION
Model 231 transfer case is a part time, chain-driven, 4-position unit with 2-piece aluminum case. Torque input
in 4WD high and low range is undifferentiated. 2WD operation is achieved by a vacuum shift motor. Shift
motor disconnects right front axle when 2WD is selected. Vacuum shift motor is controlled by a vacuum switch
located on front of transfer case and actuated by shift sector.
ON-VEHICLE SERVICE
FRONT OIL SEAL
1. Mark front drive shaft and flange for installation alignment reference. Remove front drive shaft. Remove
flange. Discard washer and nut. Using a screwdriver, carefully remove oil seal. Ensure seal contact
surface is clean.
2. Apply ATF to seal lip and flange seal surface. Install NEW oil seal. Install flange and NEW washer and
nut. Tighten nut to specifications. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Install front drive shaft using
alignment marks. Check transfer case fluid.
1. Mark rear drive shaft and flange for installation alignment reference. Remove rear drive shaft. Tap
extension housing in a clockwise direction and remove extension housing. DO NOT pry on extension
housing. Using a screwdriver, remove oil seal from extension housing.
2. Using bushing driver, replace bushing in extension housing. Install NEW extension housing oil seal.
Apply silicone sealant to extension housing mating surface. Install extension housing. To complete
installation, reverse removal procedure.
ADJUSTMENTS
GEARSHIFT LINKAGE
Chrysler Corp.
Shift transfer case to 2H position. Raise and support vehicle. Loosen lock bolt at trunnion. Ensure linkage rod
slides freely in trunnion. Verify transfer case range lever is fully engaged in 2H position. Tighten lock bolt at
trunnion. Lower vehicle. Check shift linkage operation. Ensure transfer case shifts into and operates properly in
all gear ranges.
General Motors
Remove shift lever knob retainer. Remove shift lever knob. Remove floor console. Place shift lever in Neutral.
Pry control cable end from shift lever. Loosen control cable lock nut. Check transfer case to ensure it is in
Neutral. Ensure shift lever is in Neutral. Turn shift lever end of cable in or out as needed until it is aligned with
shift lever. Install control cable on shift lever. Tighten control cable lock nut.
Jeep
Shift transfer case to 4L position. Raise and support vehicle. Loosen lock bolt at trunnion. Ensure linkage rod
slides freely in trunnion. Verify transfer case range lever is fully engaged in 4L position. Tighten lock bolt at
trunnion. Lower vehicle. Check shift linkage operation. Ensure transfer case shifts into and operates properly in
all gear ranges.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS
Vehicle speed too high; slow vehicle to 2-3 MPH to shift. Vehicle operated too long on dry paved surface; stop
vehicle and place in Reverse or Neutral to relieve driveline torque. Ensure transfer case external linkage is not
binding. Ensure correct fluid is used. Internal parts may be worn or damaged.
Check fluid level. Ensure correct fluid is used. If fluid is okay, locate possible internal mechanical problem.
Transfer case not completely in gear; check shift linkage. Range fork damaged. Shift fork pads are worn or shift
fork binding. Low range gear worn.
Transfer case overfilled. Vent plugged. Output shaft seals are damaged or not installed properly.
TESTING
VACUUM SWITCH
Shift to 2WD position. Locate vacuum switch on front of transfer case. Apply 15 in. Hg vacuum to "L". See
Fig. 1. Vacuum should be present at "M". Connect a vacuum gauge to "N". Shift to 4WD position. Apply
vacuum to "L". Vacuum should be present at "N". If switch fails any test, replace switch.
Removal
1. Shift transfer case into 4H and disconnect battery negative cable. Raise vehicle, remove skid plate and
drain fluid.
2. Mark front and rear output shaft yokes to drive shafts for reassembly reference. Support transfer case and
remove rear crossmember. Remove drive shafts.
3. Disconnect vehicle speed sensor electrical connector and vacuum (hoses) harness at transfer case.
Remove shift lever or linkage rod from case. Remove transfer case attaching bolts. Remove transfer case
from vehicle.
NOTE: On some models, crossmember may not be removable. In this case, after
removing drive shafts, slide transfer case rearward and tilt away from fixed
rear crossmember and work it out from between crossmember and
transmission.
Installation
1. Clean all old gasket material from transmission and transfer case mating surfaces. Position NEW gasket
on transfer case with orientation tab at upper left bolt hole.
2. Install transfer case, aligning splines of input shaft with transmission. Slide transfer case forward until
seated against transmission. Install transfer case attaching bolts and tighten to specification. See
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Install rear crossmember.
NOTE: On some models, crossmember may not be removable. In this case, tip
transfer case tailshaft up and working it backward, insert transfer case
between fixed rear crossmember and transmission.
3. Attach shift lever and connect speed sensor electrical connector and vacuum harness at transfer case.
Using reference marks made during removal, reinstall front and rear drive shafts. Refill transfer case.
Install skid plate and lower vehicle. Connect negative battery cable. Road test vehicle.
NOTE: When installing bearings, ensure bearing bores are aligned with oil feed holes.
1. Lubricate all parts with Dexron III before installing. Install output shaft front bearing with NEW snap
ring. Install output shaft oil seal in front case. Install snap ring on NEW input gear bearing. See Fig. 2 or
Fig. 3 .
2. Press input gear bearing so snap ring is seated against case. Using press, install NEW input gear pilot
bearing. Assemble low range gear, input gear, thrust washers and retainer.
3. Install snap ring. Ensure snap ring is seated in low range gear groove. Start input gear shaft into bearing
in front case. Press input shaft gear into bearing.
CAUTION: DO NOT press against end surfaces of gear. Failure to use proper
size tool could lead to gear case or thrust washer damage.
4. Install input gear snap ring. Install oil seal in front bearing retainer. Apply a 1/8" bead of silicone sealant
to retainer mating surface. Align oil channel in retainer with oil feed hole in case. Install retainer on case.
Tighten bolts to specification.
5. Install sector shaft "O" ring and bushing. Install range sector in case. Install range lever and nut. Install
detent, detent spring and plug. Tighten to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Install
NEW pads and fork rail bushings on range fork. Install range fork and shift hub.
6. Ensure range fork pin is engaged with range sector slot. Press front bearing in drive sprocket until bearing
is flush with bore edge. Install rear bearing until bearing is 3/16" below bore edge. See Fig. 4.
7. Install inserts and spring in synchronizer hub. Install sprocket on mainshaft. Install synchronizer stop ring
on mainshaft. Ensure stop ring is seated. Install synchronizer hub on mainshaft. Align and seat hub inserts
on stop ring lugs. Install synchronizer hub snap ring.
8. Install synchronizer sleeve on hub. Ensure sleeve is positioned so beveled spline ends are facing stop ring.
Ensure sleeve tooth is aligned (centered) over each synchronizer strut. Gear clash will occur if strut and
sleeve teeth are misaligned. Install NEW pads on mode fork. Engage mode fork in synchronizer sleeve.
Install mainshaft and fork assembly in case. Ensure mode fork shift rail is seated in both range fork
bushings.
9. Install output shaft and drive chain assembly. Install mode spring on shift rail. Using bearing driver,
install output shaft rear bearing. Lubricate bearing after installation. Install seal in oil pump feed housing.
Install oil pump in housing. Tighten to specification.
10. Install oil pick-up tube "O" ring in oil pump. Prime oil pump by pouring ATF into pump through pick-up
tube opening. Install oil pump and pick-up tube in case. Ensure oil screen is properly positioned. See Fig.
5. Install magnet in front case. Apply 1/8" bead of silicone sealer to front case. Install rear case. Tighten
to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. Ensure mainshaft splines are engaged with oil
pump inner gear and a washer is used on bolts at dowel locations.
11. Install rear bearings in retainer. Apply 1/8" bead of silicone sealer and install retainer to case. Install rear
retainer snap ring. Install extension housing. Install front companion yoke. Install NEW gasket on
vacuum switch. Install vacuum switch in case. Fill transfer case with Dexron III.
Fig. 4: Installing Drive Sprocket Bearings
Courtesy of CHRYSLER CORP.
Fig. 5: Identifying Oil Pump Screen Position
Courtesy of CHRYSLER CORP.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
Application Ft. Lbs. (N.m)
Companion Flange Nut
Chrysler Corp. 130-200 (176-271)
General Motors 80 (108)
Jeep 110 (149)
Detent Plug
General Motors 11 (15)
Chrysler Corp. & Jeep 15 (20)
Drain & Fill Plug 30-40 (41-54)
Extension Housing Bolt 20-25 (27-34)
Front Bearing Retainer Bolt
Chrysler Corp. & Jeep 16 (22)
General Motors 14 (19)
Front Case-to-Rear Case Bolt
Chrysler Corp.
Flange Head Bolt 35-45 (47-61)
All Other Bolts 20-25 (27-34)
General Motors 23 (31)
Jeep 20-25 (27-34)
Range Lever Nut 15-20 (20-27)
Rear Bearing Retainer Bolt 20-25 (27-34)
Rear Crossmember 30 (41)
Shift Lever Lock Bolt 10 (14)
Speed Sensor Bolt 23 (31)
Transfer Case-to-Transmission Nut 26 (35)
Vacuum Switch
Chrysler Corp. 15-25 (20-34)
General Motors 17 (23)
Jeep 20-25 (27-34)
INCH Lbs.
Control Cable Lock Nut 18 (2)
DESCRIPTION
Throttle Return Control (TRC) system is used on all Heavy Duty emission models. System consists of throttle
lever actuator, solenoid vacuum control valve and engine speed switch.
OPERATION
Manifold vacuum is routed through solenoid vacuum valve, which is normally closed, to throttle lever actuator.
Upon vehicle deceleration, electronic speed switch signals solenoid vacuum valve to open when engine speed is
greater than preset RPM.
When valve opens, manifold vacuum is directed to throttle lever actuator, which extends to open throttle
slightly. When engine speed drops to less than preset RPM, solenoid valve closes, retracting throttle lever
actuator and returning throttle to curb idle position.
COMPONENT TESTING
THROTTLE LEVER ACTUATOR
1. Disconnect valve-to-actuator hose at valve and connect to an external vacuum supply, with vacuum gauge
installed near actuator.
2. Apply 20 in. Hg vacuum to actuator and seal off vacuum source. If vacuum gauge reading drops, actuator
is leaking and must be replaced.
3. To check actuator for proper operation, first ensure throttle lever, shaft and linkage work without binding.
Start engine and run to normal operating temperature. Turn off air conditioner and note idle RPM.
Fig. 1: Schematic of Throttle Return Control (TRC) System
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
4. Apply 20 in. Hg vacuum to actuator. Manually open throttle slightly and allow it to close against
extended actuator plunger. Note engine RPM.
5. Release throttle and reapply 20 in. Hg vacuum to actuator. Note RPM to which engine speed increases
(do not assist actuator).
6. If RPM as noted in step 5), is not within 150 RPM of speed noted in step 4), actuator plunger is binding.
Clean around plunger to see if condition can be corrected. If not, replace actuator.
7. Release vacuum from actuator and engine speed should return to within 50 RPM of idle speed noted in
step 3). If not, plunger may be binding and should be cleaned. If problem cannot be corrected, replace
actuator.
8. If engine RPM noted in step 4) is not to specified throttle return control speed, actuator must be adjusted.
9. To adjust actuator, apply 20 in. Hg vacuum to actuator. Manually open throttle slightly and allow to close
against extended actuator plunger. Turn hex-end of plunger to obtain specified speed.
NOTE: See Emission Control Tune-Up decal for throttle lever actuator adjustment
speeds.
SYSTEM TESTING
SYSTEM OPERATION
1. Connect tachometer (accurate to within 10 RPM) to distributor "TACH" terminal. Start engine and open
throttle until tachometer reads 1890 RPM. Throttle lever actuator should be extended at this speed.
Decrease engine speed to 1700 RPM. Throttle actuator should be retracted at this speed.
2. If throttle actuator operates as specified, system is functioning properly. If actuator operates outside of
RPM limits, replace speed switch. If actuator does not operate at any speed, go to next step.
3. Using voltmeter, check for battery voltage at voltage wire terminal on solenoid valve and speed switch. If
voltage is present at one component only, repair wiring harness (as required). If there is no voltage at both
components, check engine harness connections at distributor and bulkhead connector and repair (as
required).
4. If battery voltage is present at solenoid valve and speed switch, start engine and use jumper wire to
ground solenoid-to-speed switch connecting wire terminal at speed switch. Throttle actuator should
extend.
z If actuator did not extend, remove throttle actuator hose from solenoid and check solenoid orifice
for blockage. If orifice is plugged, clean (as required). If orifice is clear, replace solenoid.
z If actuator did extend, ground solenoid-to-switch wire terminal at speed switch. If actuator does not
extend, repair speed switch-to-solenoid wire. If it extends, ensure speed switch ground wire reads
ground with engine running and check speed switch-to-distributor wire connections. If actuator still
does not extend with all wires properly connected and engine speed above 1890 RPM, replace
speed switch.
5. If throttle actuator remains extended at all speeds, remove electrical connector from solenoid.
z If actuator remains extended, check actuator vacuum orifice on solenoid valve for blockage. Clean
orifice, and reconnect system. If actuator again remains extended, remove solenoid connector. If
actuator does not retract, replace solenoid valve.
z If actuator retracts with connector removed, reconnect and then remove speed switch connector. If
actuator retracts, replace speed switch. If actuator does not retract, solenoid-to-switch wire is
shorted to ground in harness. Repair wire.
TUNE-UP - 4-CYL
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
The eighth character of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) identifies the engine. The VIN number is
stamped on a plate attached to the left top side of dash and visible through windshield.
TUNE-UP NOTES
ENGINE COMPRESSION
When making compression checks, disconnect ignition switch connector (Pink wire) from High Energy Ignition
(HEI) system. With air cleaner removed, throttle wide open, and all spark plugs removed, crank engine through
at least 4 compression strokes.
COMPRESSION SPECIFICATIONS
Application Specification
Compression Ratio 8.3:1
Compression Pressure 140 psi (10 kg/cm2 )
Minimum Pressure 100 psi (7 kg/cm2 )
Maximum Variation Between Cylinders 30 psi (2 kg/cm2 )
ADJUSTMENTS
VALVE ARRANGEMENT
z I-E-I-E-E-I-E-I (Front-to-rear).
VALVE CLEARANCE
All engines are equipped with hydraulic lifters. Valve adjustment is not normally required during tune-up.
Valve lash may be adjusted if needed. See appropriate article in ENGINES section.
IGNITION SYSTEM
The spark plug wires are carbon impregnated conductors encased in 7 mm diameter rubber jackets. High
tension wire resistance specifications are not available from manufacturer.
Ignition Coil
1. Disconnect all electrical leads from coil. Connect ohmmeter in position "A". See Fig. 1 . Reading should
be infinite. If not infinite, replace coil.
2. Connect ohmmeter in position "B". Using low scale, reading should be very low or zero. If not, replace
coil. Now connect ohmmeter in position "C". Using high scale, meter reading should not be infinite. If it
is, replace coil. Reconnect coil.
Fig. 1: Ignition Coil Test Connections
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Distributor
Engine is equipped with a Delco-Remy HEI solid state distributor. No adjustments are necessary.
Fig. 2: Firing Order & Distributor Rotation
Ignition Timing
1. Install timing light between No. 1 spark plug and No. 1 spark plug wire, or use inductive pick-up. Do not
puncture wire. Run engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
2. Electronic Spark Timing (EST) must be in by-pass mode to check ignition timing. Ground terminal "A"
to "B" at Assembly Line Diagnostic Link (ALDL) connector. See Fig. 3 .
3. Place transmission in Neutral (man. trans.) or Drive (auto. trans.). Check timing and adjust if necessary.
See IGNITION TIMING SPECIFICATIONS table.
SERVICING
EMISSION CONTROL
For information on emission control systems, see EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS section.
FUEL SYSTEM
TBI FUEL INJECTION
Application Model
2.5L Rochester 700 TBI
FUEL PUMP
All engines are equipped with an in-tank, electric fuel pump. Relieve pressure on fuel system before
disconnecting fuel lines.
1. Place transmission in Park (Neutral for manual transmissions) and apply parking brake. Loosen fuel filler
cap to relieve tank pressure.
2. Disconnect 3 terminal electrical connector at fuel tank. Start engine and let run until engine dies from lack
of fuel. Crank engine for 3 seconds to relieve residual pressure.
1. Ensure no codes are displayed, idle air control system has been checked, and ignition timing is correct.
See CODE 35 IDLE SPEED ERROR (2.5L ENGINE) chart in GENERAL MOTORS COMPUTER
COMMAND CONTROL article in COMPUTERIZED ENGINE CONTROLS section.
NOTE: Diagnosis of idle air control system is incorporated into Code 35 chart for
the 2.5L engine.
2. Set parking brake and block drive wheels. Connect "SCAN" tester to ALDL connector with engine in
open loop. Start engine and warm to normal operating temperature. Place transmission in Drive (auto.
trans.) or Neutral (man. trans.).
3. Check "SCAN" tester for correct position of Park/Neutral switch. Check controlled idle speed and IAC
valve pintle position counts. If within specifications, idle speed is being correctly controlled by ECM. See
CONTROLLED IDLE SPEED (RPM) table.
4. If not within specifications, see "ROUGH, UNSTABLE OR INCORRECT IDLE; STALLING" in
TROUBLE SHOOTING in GENERAL MOTORS COMPUTER COMMAND CONTROL article in
COMPUTERIZED ENGINE CONTROLS section.
(1) Fuel control in closed loop and with a 5-20 IAC count.
(2) Fuel control in closed loop and with a 15-40 IAC count.
1. Check controlled idle speed and perform idle air control system check before adjusting hot idle. See
CODE 35 IDLE SPEED ERROR (2.5L ENGINE) chart in GENERAL MOTORS COMPUTER
COMMAND CONTROL article in COMPUTERIZED ENGINE CONTROLS section.
NOTE: Diagnosis of idle air control system is incorporated into Code 35 chart for
the 2.5L engine.
2. Remove air cleaner, adapter, and gasket. On "S" and "T" series trucks, leave thermac hose connected. On
all models, ensure that throttle lever operates freely.
3. With Idle Air Control (IAC) valve connected, ground terminal "B" to "A" at ALDL connector. See Fig.
3 . Turn ignition on, but DO NOT start engine.
4. Wait at least 10 seconds for IAC valve pintle to extend and seat in throttle body. With ignition on,
disconnect IAC valve electrical connector. Remove ground at ALDL connector.
5. Using an awl, pierce and apply leverage to remove minimum idle speed adjustment screw plug. Install
tachometer, start engine, and allow engine to reach normal operating temperature. Allow engine RPM to
stabilize.
6. Adjust idle RPM to specification with transmission in Neutral. See HOT (SLOW) IDLE SPEED RPM
table. Turn ignition off. Remove tachometer. Reconnect IAC valve electrical connector. Install air
cleaner, adapter, and gasket.
Make jumper wires using Terminals No. 1214836 and 12014837. Connect digital voltmeter between TPS Dark
Blue wire terminal and Black wire terminal using jumper wires. With ignition on and engine off, TPS voltage
should be less than 1.25 volts. If more than specified, replace TPS. Remove voltmeter and jumper wires.
Reconnect TPS connector.
Idle mixture is controlled by Electronic Control Module (ECM) and is not adjustable.
Fast idle is controlled by Electronic Control Module (ECM) and is not adjustable.
SPECIFICATIONS
BATTERY
BATTERY SPECIFICATIONS
Cold Crank Amps @ 0°F (-18°
Application C) Reserve Capacity Minutes
Standard 525 90
Optional 630 115
SERVICE INTERVALS
REPLACEMENT INTERVALS
Component Interval (Miles)
Air Filter 30,000
Coolant 30,000
Fuel Filter 60,000
Oil & Filter
Normal Service 7500
Severe Service 3000
PCV Valve & Filter 60,000
Spark Plugs 30,000
BELT ADJUSTMENT
All models use a single serpentine belt. Proper belt tension is maintained by an automatic tensioner.
CAPACITIES
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
Engines can be identified by the eighth character of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). The VIN number
is stamped on a plate attached to top, left side of dash and visible through windshield.
TUNE UP NOTES
When performing tune-up on vehicles equipped with a catalytic converter, do not allow or create a condition of
engine misfire in one or more cylinders for an extended period of time. Damage to catalytic converter from
overheating may occur due to loading with unburned fuel.
ENGINE COMPRESSION
When making compression checks, disconnect ignition switch connector Pink wire from high energy ignition
system. Remove air cleaner. Open throttle and choke fully. Remove all spark plugs. Crank engine through at
least 4 compression strokes.
COMPRESSION SPECIFICATIONS
Application Specification
Compression Ratio
2.8L 8 . 9:1
4.3L 9 . 3:1
Minimum Pressure 100psi (7.0 kg/cm2)
Maximum Variation Between Cylinders 30 %
ADJUSTMENTS
VALVE ARRANGEMENT
2.8L
4.3L
VALVE CLEARANCE
All engines are equipped with hydraulic lifters. Valve adjustment is not normally required during tune-up.
Valve lash may be adjusted if needed. See appropriate article in ENGINES section.
IGNITION SYSTEM
The spark plug wires are carbon impregnated conductors encased in 8 mm diameter rubber jackets. High
tension wire resistance specifications not available from manufacturer.
Ignition Coil
1. Disconnect all electrical leads from coil. Connect ohmmeter in position "A". See Fig. 1 . Reading should
be infinite. If not infinite, replace coil.
2. Connect ohmmeter in position "B". Using low scale, reading should be very low or zero. If not, replace
coil. Now connect ohmmeter in position "C". Using high scale, meter reading should not be infinite. If it
is, replace coil. Reconnect coil.
Fig. 1: Ignition Coil Test Connections
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Distributor
Engines are equipped with a Delco-Remy HEI solid state distributor. No adjustments are necessary.
Fig. 2: 2.8L Firing Order & Distributor Rotation
Fig. 3: 4.3L Firing Order & Distributor Rotation
Ignition Timing
1. Install timing light with an adapter between No. 1 spark plug and No. 1 spark plug wire or use an
inductive pick-up. Do not puncture wire. Ensure "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light is off.
2. Disconnect EST by-pass Tan/Black stripe wire connector. On all engines, this connector is located a
taped section below heater case in passenger compartment.
3. Check and adjust ignition timing with engine at normal operating temperature and transmission in Drive
(auto. trans.) or Neutral (man. trans.). See IGNITION TIMING SPECIFICATIONS table.
4. Reconnect Tan/Black stripe wire connector. Clear ECM trouble codes. See appropriate article in
COMPUTERIZED ENGINE CONTROLS section.
FUEL SYSTEMS
FUEL PUMP
All engines are equipped with an in-tank, electric fuel pump. Relieve pressure on fuel system before
disconnecting fuel lines.
RELIEVING FUEL PRESSURE
Place transmission in Park (Neutral for manual transmissions) and apply parking brake. Loosen fuel filler cap to
relieve tank pressure. The internal constant bleed feature on the TBI unit relieves fuel system pressure when
engine is off.
Relieve fuel pressure. Plug themac vacuum port on TBI (if equipped). Disconnect flexible fuel hose and install
pressure gauge. Start engine and observe fuel pressure. Relieve fuel pressure. Remove pressure gauge and
reconnect fuel line using new "O" ring.
1. Ensure no codes are displayed, idle air control system has been checked, and ignition timing is correct.
See AIR MANAGEMENT CHECK (ELECTRONIC AIR CONTROL VALVE) check chart in CCC TBI
TESTS W/CODES article in COMPUTER ENG CONTROL section.
2. Set parking brake and block drive wheels. Connect "SCAN" tester to ALDL connector with engine in
open loop. Start engine and warm to normal operating temperature. Place transmission in Drive (auto.
trans.) or Neutral (man. trans.).
3. Check "SCAN" tester for correct position of Park/Neutral switch. Check controlled idle speed and IAC
valve pintle position counts. If within specifications, idle speed is being correctly controlled by ECM. See
CONTROLLED IDLE SPEED (RPM) table.
4. If not within specifications, go to "ROUGH, UNSTABLE OR INCORRECT IDLE; STALLING" in
TROUBLE SHOOTING in GENERAL MOTORS COMPUTER COMMAND CONTROL article in
COMPUTERIZED ENGINE CONTROLS section.
(1) Fuel control in open loop and with a 5-20 IAC count.
(2) Fuel control in closed loop and with a 2-12 IAC count.
(3) Fuel control in closed loop and with a 10-25 IAC count.
(4) Fuel control in closed loop and with a 2-20 IAC count.
2.8L
Make jumper wires using Terminals No. 1214836 and 12014837. Connect digital voltmeter between TPS Dark
Blue wire terminal and Black wire terminal using jumper wires. With ignition on and engine off, TPS voltage
should be .42-.54 volts. If correct voltage cannot be obtained, replace TPS. Remove voltmeter and jumper
wires. Reconnect TPS connector.
4.3L
Make jumper wires using Terminals No. 1214836 and 12014837. Connect digital voltmeter between TPS Dark
Blue wire terminal and Black wire terminal using jumper wires. With ignition on and engine off, TPS voltage
should be less than 1.25 volts. If more than specified, check HOT (SLOW) IDLE SPEED RPM before replacing
TPS. Remove voltmeter and jumper wires. Reconnect TPS connector.
Idle mixture is controlled by Electronic Control Module (ECM) and is not adjustable.
Fast idle is controlled by Electronic Control Module (ECM) and is not adjustable.
All models use a single serpentine belt. Proper belt tension is maintained by an automatic tensioner.
SERVICING
EMISSION CONTROL
For information on emission control systems, see EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS section.
SPECIFICATIONS
FUEL SYSTEMS
BATTERY
BATTERY SPECIFICATIONS
Cold Crank Amps @ 0°F (-18°
Application C) Reserve Capacity Minutes
Standard (1) 430 90
Optional (2) 540 115
(1) 525 amps on some models.
SERVICE INTERVALS
REPLACEMENT INTERVALS
Component Interval (Miles)
Air Filter 30,000
Coolant 30,000
Fuel Filter 30,000
Oil & Filter
Normal Use 7500
Heavy Use 3000
PCV Valve & Filter (1) 60,000
CAPACITIES
ACCESSORIES & SAFETY EQUIPMENT General Motors Turn Signal & Hazard Flasher System
Description
Turn signal system consists of turn signal switch, flasher, turn indicator lights in cluster, and turn signal lights
located at each corner of vehicle.
Operation
When turn signal switch is positioned for left or right turn, the left or right turn signal lights are connected to
turn signal flasher. Current now flows through flasher, to turn signals lights, and then to ground. The turn signal
flasher turns current off and on, causing turn signal lights to flash.
Description
The hazard flasher system consists of hazard flasher and hazard switch. Hazard switch is mounted on lower
right side of steering column.
Operation
FLASHER LOCATIONS
Hazard Flasher
Astro, Safari, and "S" series have hazard flasher mounted on convenience center. Convenience center is located
to left of steering column, at lower edge of instrument cluster. All other models have hazard flasher mounted on
fuse block.
TESTING
HAZARD FLASHER INOPERATIVE
1. Turn ignition on and operate turn signals. If turn signals come on, replace stop-hazard fuse. If new fuse
blows, repair short to ground in turn signal circuit(s) or in stoplight circuit.
2. If stop-hazard fuse is okay, replace hazard flasher. Using a test light, check for voltage at Brown wire in
turn signal steering column connector. If test light does not glow, repair open circuit between flasher and
connector.
3. If test light glows and connections at steering column are okay, use test light to check output voltage from
turn signal switch at Light Blue, Blue, Yellow, and Dark Green Wires. If output voltage is incorrect,
replace turn signal switch.
One Side
1. Turn hazard warning system on. If one or more bulbs are inoperative, use a test light to check circuit at
light bulb sockets. If test light glows, check bulb socket ground circuit.
2. If bulb socket is properly grounded, repair open wiring between bulb socket and turn signal switch. If
flasher can be heard, but no bulbs light, locate and repair short to ground by disconnecting each circuit.
Both Sides
1. Turn hazard warning system on. If all turn signals come on, replace turn signal fuse. If new turn signal
fuse blows, repair short to ground in turn signal circuit(s).
2. If turn signal fuse is okay and hazard warning system operates turn signals, replace turn signal flasher. If
turn signals still fail to operate, check steering column connector. If connector is okay, replace turn signal
switch.
WIRING DIAGRAMS
For wiring diagrams, refer to appropriate chassis wiring diagram in WIRING DIAGRAMS section.
UNIVERSAL JOINTS
MAINTENANCE
Whenever drive shaft is removed from vehicle or if slip yoke sticks in extension housing seal, clean yoke with
solvent. Lubricate inside diameter of seal with synthetic oil seal lubricant, and outside diameter of seal with
transmission fluid.
OVERHAUL
NOTE: Universal joints should not be disassembled unless external leakage or damage
has occurred.
Before disassembly, scribe alignment marks on yoke and shaft to allow reassembly in original position. If joints
are rusted or corroded, apply penetrating oil before pressing out bearing cups or trunnion pin.
There are 2 different retaining methods used for bearing cups, either snap rings or nylon retainers. Joints with
snap rings may be taken apart and reassembled, using same cross shaft and bearings. Joints with nylon retainers
are disassembled by breaking nylon retainers. Retainers must be replaced after service.
1. Disconnect yoke or flange attaching bolts and remove drive shaft from vehicle. DO NOT use a pry bar to
hold drive shaft while loosening bolts. Damage to bearing seals may result.
2. Remove retaining strap (if equipped). Remove bushing retainers from yoke. Press out rollers and
bearings. Remove last roller and bushing assembly by pressing on end of cross shaft.
3. Remove cross shaft assembly from yoke. DO NOT remove seal retainers from cross shaft. Cross shaft
and retainers are serviced as an assembly.
Fig. 1: Exploded View of Constant Velocity Type Universal Joint
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Reassembly
1. Coat roller and bearing assemblies with lubricant, and fill reservoirs in ends of cross. Place cross
assembly in drive shaft yoke, and place roller and bushing assemblies into position.
2. Press both bushing assemblies into yoke until retainers can be installed, being careful to keep cross
aligned in center of bushings. Install retainers, then repeat procedure for remaining bushings. Install strap
(if equipped). Install drive shaft in vehicle, aligning scribe marks.
1. Disconnect yoke attaching bolts and flange attaching bolts, and remove drive shaft from vehicle. Mark
joint so that center yoke, end yoke, and cross shafts will be installed in original positions.
2. Pry out all snap rings and press bearing out enough to allow bearing end to be clamped in vise. Tap on
yoke until it is free of bearing.
3. Repeat procedure for remaining bearings. Remove remaining parts from center yoke assembly.
Reassembly
1. Pack all bearings with specified grease. Assemble center yoke components in reverse order of
disassembly.
2. Using arbor press or vise, press 2 opposing bearings into position at same time until all bearings are
installed. Be sure cross shafts and yokes remain aligned during this process.
3. Check for free movement of joint. If bind exists, seat bearings by sharply rapping yokes with brass
hammer. Never hammer on bearings.
4. Install drive shaft in vehicle, making sure marks made during disassembly are aligned.
Installation
1. Before installing drive shaft, clean yoke and inspect machined surface for scratches, nicks or burrs.
2. Provide support for drive shaft during installation to prevent damage to universal joints. Position front
end of shaft and aligning marks noted during removal.
3. Install and attach 2 clamps to pinion yoke. Install 4 screws and lock washer assemblies on CV joint at
transfer case. Use press bar to prevent assembly from rotating while attaching screw assemblies.
EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS
EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEMS General Motors Corp. - Vacuum Advance Spark Control
DESCRIPTION
TRAPPED VACUUM SPARK
Thermal Vacuum Switch (TVS) is mounted in intake manifold and is used to sense engine coolant temperature.
Vacuum check valve is mounted between manifold vacuum, distributor and thermal vacuum switch. System
maintains high vacuum levels to distributor during cold engine operation and cold engine acceleration.
Spark vacuum delay is used on 5.7L V8 engines with Heavy Duty emissions. Spark vacuum delay is installed
between TVS check valve and distributor.
OPERATION
TRAPPED VACUUM SPARK
When engine temperature is less than pre-set value, manifold vacuum signal is routed through check valve to
distributor. Ports on TVS are blocked. Check valve will keep distributor advance vacuum at levels higher than
manifold vacuum during vehicle acceleration.
Small sintered iron bleed orifice is provided in check valve to allow for leak-down to enable engine to be
restarted if it stalls.
When engine temperature is greater than pre-set value, TVS ports will be open to allow manifold vacuum to
distributor advance canister.
If manifold vacuum increases, check valve opens and allows distributor advance vacuum to increase to same
level as manifold vacuum. When vacuum decreases during vehicle acceleration, check valve closes and
distributor advance vacuum will decrease at a rate controlled by internal bleed.
COMPONENT TESTING
Vacuum Diagrams
EMISSIONS ABBREVIATIONS
EMISSIONS ABBREVIATIONS DEFINITIONS
Abbreviation Definition
AIR Air Injection Reactor
DVTR Diverter Valve
EFE Early Fuel Evaporation
EGR Exhaust Gas Recirculation
EPR Exhaust Pressure Regulator
ESC Electronic Spark Control
PCV Positive Crankcase Ventilation
TRC Throttle Return Control
TVS Thermal Vacuum Switch
VACUUM HOSE DIAGRAM(S)
Fig. 1: Vacuum Diagram (2.5L 4-Cyl., "M" Series Federal/High Altitude All Trans. (DDH) California All
Trans. (DDJ))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 2: Vacuum Diagram (4.3L V6, "G" Series Light Duty Federal All Trans. (DFL) Light Duty
California All Trans. (DFN))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 3: Vacuum Diagram (4.3L V6, "C" & "K" Series Light Duty California All Trans. (DDZ))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 4: Vacuum Diagram (4.3L V6, "M" Series Light Duty Federal A/T (DFB) Light Duty California A/T
(DFD))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 5: Vacuum Diagram (4.3L V6, "G" Series Light Duty High Altitude M/T (DFM))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 6: Vacuum Diagram (4.3L V6, "G" Series Light Duty Federal A/T (DFJ))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 7: Vacuum Diagram (4.3L V6, "G" Series Light Duty High Altitude A/T (DFK))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 8: Vacuum Diagram (4.3L V6, "C" & "K" Series Light Duty Federal/High Altitude M/T (DDY))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 9: Vacuum Diagram (4.3L V6, "C" & "K" Series Light Duty Federal/High Altitude A/T (DDX))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 10: Vacuum Diagram (4.3L V6, "M" Series Light Duty California M/T (DFF))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 11: Vacuum Diagram (4.8L 6-Cyl., "P" Series Federal All Trans. (DKD, DKC))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 12: Vacuum Diagram (5.0L V8, "C" & "K" Series Light Duty California A/T (DFU))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 13: Vacuum Diagram (5.0L V8, "G" Series Light Duty Federal M/T (DLS))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 14: Vacuum Diagram (5.0L V8, "G" Series Light Duty High Altitude A/T (DFX))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 15: Vacuum Diagram (5.0L V8, "C" & "K" Series Light Duty Federal/High Altitude M/T (DFT))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 16: Vacuum Diagram (5.0L V8, "G" Series Light Duty Federal M/T (DLT))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 17: Vacuum Diagram (5.0L V8, "C" & "K" Series Light Duty Federal/High A/T (DFR))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 18: Vacuum Diagram (5.0L V8, "G" Series Light Duty California A/T Trans (DFY))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 19: Vacuum Diagram (5.7L V8, "G" Series Heavy Duty High Altitude A/T (DHL, DHN, DHR)
Heavy Duty Federal A/T (DHM))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 20: Vacuum Diagram (5.7L V8, "R" & "V" Series Light Duty California A/T (DHB, DHD), Light
Duty High Altitude A/T (DHC))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 21: Vacuum Diagram (5.7L V8, "G" Series Heavy Duty California A/T (DHT, DHS), Heavy Duty
Federal A/T (DHP, DHK))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 22: Vacuum Diagram (5.7L V8, "G" Series Light Duty Federal A/T (DHF) Light Duty California
A/T (DHJ))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 23: Vacuum Diagram (5.7L V8, "G" Series Light Duty High Altitude A/T (DHH))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 24: Vacuum Diagram (5.7L V8, "C" & "K" Series Light Duty California A/T (DHA))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 25: Vacuum Diagram (5.7L V8, "P" Series Light Duty Federal M/T (DLN))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 26: Vacuum Diagram (5.7L V8, "C" & "K" Series Light Duty Federal/High Altitude A/T (DFZ))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 27: Vacuum Diagram (5.7L V8, "P" Series Heavy Duty Federal All Trans. (DPJ, DPN))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 28: Vacuum Diagram (5.7L V8, "G" Series Light Duty High Altitude A/T (DHL))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 29: Vacuum Diagram (5.7L V8, Heavy Duty Federal A/T (DPL))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 30: Vacuum Diagram (5.7L V8, "G" Series Light Duty Federal M/T (DLR))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 31: Vacuum Diagram (5.7L V8, "P" Series Light Duty Federal M/T (DLP))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 32: Vacuum Diagram (5.7L V8, Heavy Duty California/Federal All Trans. (DPC))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 33: Vacuum Diagram (5.7L V8, Heavy Duty Federal A/T (DPP))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 34: Vacuum Diagram (6.2L V8 Diesel, "G" Series Heavy Duty High Altitude All Trans. (WJH, WJL)
or Heavy Duty Federal All Trans. (WJF, WJK))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 35: Vacuum Diagram (7.4L V8, "P" Series California Heavy Duty A/T (DKM, DKY) or Federal
Heavy Duty A/T (DKU))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 36: Vacuum Diagram (7.4L V8, "P" Series California Heavy Duty A/T (DKX, DKH) or Federal
Heavy Duty A/T (DKL, DKT))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 37: Vacuum Diagram (7.4L V8, "R" Series California Heavy Duty All Trans. (DJP, DJC))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 38: Vacuum Diagram (7.4L V8, "G" Series California Heavy Duty A/T (DKA))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 39: Vacuum Diagram (7.4L V8, "G" Series High Altitude Heavy Duty A/T (DJY, DJW))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 40: Vacuum Diagram (7.4L V8, "C" & "K" Series Federal/High Altitude Heavy Duty All Trans.
(DHY))
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Fig. 41: Transfer Case Vacuum Diagram (S10, S15, S/T Blazer & S/T Jimmy 4WD)
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
WARNING SYSTEM - SEAT BELT
ACCESSORIES & SAFETY EQUIPMENT General Motors Warning Systems - Seat Belt
If the driver's belt is buckled after the buzzer sounds, the buzzer will still remain on for 8 seconds. When the
ignition switch is turned to the "ON" position, current is supplied through the timer to the buzzer circuit and
indicator light circuit.
The light will always remain on until the timer turns off the current. The buzzer will only sound if the driver's
seat belt is not buckled before turning on the ignition switch. The seat belt warning buzzer is grounded by a
switch in the driver's seat inboard buckle. The warning chime module is located behind the instrument cluster.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
NO SEAT BELT BUZZER OR LIGHT
Check power from ignition switch. Test continuity between switch and timer/buzzer. Replace timer/buzzer.
Check seat belt switch. Test continuity between switch and timer/buzzer. Replace timer/buzzer.
NO WARNING LIGHT
Check power and ground connections. Check for burned out indicator bulb. Test continuity between switch and
timer/buzzer. Replace timer/buzzer.
Check for short to ground in seat belt switch or wire. Open ground connection for timer/buzzer. Replace
timer/buzzer.
Check fuse. Check door jamb switch for proper operation. Check for open circuit. Replace key buzzer switch.
Check for short circuit to ground between key and door switch, or inoperative door switch. Replace key buzzer
switch.
W - WAVEFORM (INJECTOR) - 4.3L TBI VIN [Z]
GENERAL MOTORS FUEL INJECTOR WAVEFORM 4.3L/262" OHV V6 Dual TBI VIN [Z]
INTRODUCTION
SOURCE OF WAVEFORMS
The Source Vehicle Information Table describes the vehicle the waveform came from. It is not needed for
interpretation and is included for reference only.
Each waveform contains a note that links it to its related source table.
VOLTAGE WAVEFORMS
WAVEFORM #1 - INJECTOR #1 - GOOD
Quick Hyperlinks
Introduction
The Waveform Data Table is listed first. This table contains supporting information about the waveform
illustration and should be used in conjunction with it.
WAVEFORM DATA
Application Specification
Pattern Type Voltage
Voltage Base 20 Volts
Time Base 2 Milliseconds
Oscilloscope Used Tektronix 222A
Pattern Represents Single Injector
Injector Driver Type Current Controlled
Side of Circuit That Driver Switches Ground
Injector On-Time Shown .92 mS
Conditions Unknown
Cursors On-Screen No
Cursors Are Measuring N/A
Status Known Good Pattern
Fig. 1: Injector Waveform (Voltage) - Known Good - Injector #1
Quick Hyperlinks
Introduction
The Waveform Data Table is listed first. This table contains supporting information about the waveform
illustration and should be used in conjunction with it.
WAVEFORM DATA
Application Specification
Pattern Type Voltage
Voltage Base 20 Volts
Time Base 2 Milliseconds
Oscilloscope Used Tektronix 222A
Pattern Represents Single Injector
Injector Driver Type Current Controlled
Side of Circuit That Driver Switches Ground
Injector On-Time Shown .87 mS
Conditions Unknown
Cursors On-Screen No
Cursors Are Measuring N/A
Status Known Good Pattern
Fig. 2: Injector Waveform (Voltage) - Known Good - Injector #2
GENERAL INFORMATION
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. For model-specific
information see appropriate articles where available.
PRE-ALIGNMENT INSTRUCTIONS
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. For model-specific
information see appropriate articles where available.
z Each axle uses tires of same construction and tread style, equal in tread wear and overall diameter. Verify
that radial and axial runout is not excessive. Inflation should be at manufacturer's specifications.
z Steering linkage and suspension must not have excessive play. Check for wear in tie rod ends and ball
joints. Springs must not be sagging. Control arm and strut rod bushings must not have excessive play. See
Fig. 1.
Fig. 1: Checking Steering Linkage
z Vehicle must be on level floor with full fuel tank, no passenger load, spare tire in place and no load in
trunk. Bounce front and rear end of vehicle several times. Confirm vehicle is at normal riding height.
z Steering wheel must be centered with wheels in straight ahead position. If required, shorten one tie rod
adjusting sleeve and lengthen opposite sleeve (equal amount of turns). See Fig. 2.
z Wheel bearings should have the correct preload and lug nuts must be tightened to manufacturer's
specifications. Adjust camber, caster and toe-in using this sequence. Follow instructions of the alignment
equipment manufacturer.
ADJUSTMENTS
NOTE: This is GENERAL information. This article is not intended to be specific to any
unique situation or individual vehicle configuration. For model-specific
information see appropriate articles where available.
CAMBER
1. Camber is the tilting of the wheel, outward at either top or bottom, as viewed from front of vehicle. See
Fig. 3.
2. When wheels tilts outward at the top (from centerline of vehicle), camber is positive. When wheels tilt
inward at top, camber is negative. Amount of tilt is measured in degrees from vertical.
Fig. 3: Determining Camber Angle
CASTER
1. Caster is tilting of front steering axis either forward or backward from vertical, as viewed from side of
vehicle. See Fig. 4.
2. When axis is tilted backward from vertical, caster is positive. This creates a trailing action on front
wheels. When axis is tilted forward, caster is negative, causing a leading action on front wheels.
Fig. 4: Determining Caster Angle
TOE-IN ADJUSTMENT
Toe-in is the width measured at the rear of the tires subtracted by the width measured at the front of the tires at
about spindle height. A positive figure would indicate toe-in and a negative figure would indicate toe-out. If the
distance between the front and rear of the tires is the same, toe measurement would be zero. To adjust:
1) Measure toe-in with front wheels in straight ahead position and steering wheel centered. To adjust toe-in,
loosen clamps and turn adjusting sleeve or adjustable end on right and left tie rods. See Fig. 2 and Fig. 5 .
2) Turn equally and in opposite directions to maintain steering wheel in centered position. Face of tie rod end
must be parallel with machined surface of steering rod end to prevent binding.
3) When tightening clamps, make certain that clamp bolts are positioned so there will be no interference with
other parts throughout the entire travel of linkage.
Fig. 5: Wheel Toe-In (Dimension A Less Dimension B)
TOE-OUT ON TURNS
1. Toe-out on turns (turning radius) is a check for bent or damaged parts, and not a service adjustment. With
caster, camber, and toe-in properly adjusted, check toe-out with weight of vehicle on wheels.
2. Use a full floating turntable under each wheel, repeating test with each wheel positioned for right and left
turns. Incorrect toe-out generally indicates a bent steering arm. Replace arm, if necessary, and recheck
wheel alignment.
1. Steering axis inclination is a check for bent or damaged parts, and not a service adjustment. Vehicle must
be level and camber should be properly adjusted. See Fig. 6.
2. If camber cannot be brought within limits and steering axis inclination is correct, steering knuckle is bent.
If camber and steering axis inclination are both incorrect by approximately the same amount, the upper
and lower control arms are bent.
Fig. 6: Checking Steering Axis Inclination
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS & PROCEDURES
ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS (ASTRO & SAFARI)
Application Specification
Adjustment Procedures See Fig. 2
Camber in Degrees (Fraction) 1 13/32 to 13/32
Camber in Degrees (Decimal) .30 to 1.3
Caster in Degrees (Fraction) 2 3/16 to 3 3/16
Caster in Degrees (Decimal) 2.2 to 3.2
Toe-In in Inches (Decimal) .05 +/- .03
Toe-In in Degrees (Decimal) .1 +/- .05
Toe-Out on Turns (Inner) (1)
Caster
With 2 1/2" Ride Height 3 45/64 (3.7)
With 2 3/4" Ride Height 3 1/2 (3.5)
With 3" Ride Height 3 13/64 (3.2)
With 3 1/4" Ride Height 2 29/32 (2.9)
With 3 1/2" Ride Height 2 19/32 (2.6)
With 3 3/4" Ride Height 2 13/32 (2.4)
With 4" Ride Height 2 3/32 (2.1)
With 4 1/4" Ride Height 1 51/64 (1.8)
With 4 1/2" Ride Height 1 1/2 (1.5)
With 4 3/4" Ride Height 1 19/64 (1.3)
With 5" Ride Height 1 (1.0)
With 5 1/4" Ride Height 51/64 (0.8)
With 5 1/2" Ride Height 1/2 (0.5)
With 5 3/4" Ride Height 19/64 (0.3)
With 6" Ride Height 0 (0)
(1) Information not available.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS (R200 & R300)
Application Specification
Adjustment Procedures See Fig. 2
Camber in Degrees 1/4 (0.25)
Toe-In in Inches 1/64 (0.018)
Toe-In in Degrees 1/32 (0.036)
Toe-Out on Turns (1)
Caster
With 2 1/2" Ride Height 1 1/2 (1.5)
With 2 3/4" Ride Height 1 13/64 (1.2)
With 3" Ride Height 29/32 (0.9)
With 3 1/4" Ride Height 19/32 (0.6)
With 3 1/2" Ride Height 19/64 (0.3)
With 3 3/4" Ride Height 3/32 (0.1)
With 4" Ride Height -1/64 (-0.1)
With 4 1/4" Ride Height -5/32 (-0.15)
With 4 1/2" Ride Height -45/64 (-0.7)
With 4 3/4" Ride Height -1 (-1.0)
With 5" Ride Height -1 13/64 (-1.2)
With 5 1/4" Ride Height -1 13/32 (-1.4)
With 5 1/2" Ride Height -1 19/32 (-1.6)
With 5 3/4" Ride Height -1 51/64 (-1.8)
(1) Information not available.
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECIFICATIONS (P200 & P300 W/O 5000-lb. I-BEAM AXLE, DUAL REAR
WHEELS & HYDROBOOST)
Application Specification
Adjustment Procedures See Fig. 2
Camber in Degrees (Fraction) 1/4
Camber in Degrees (Decimal) 0.25
Toe-In in Inches (Fraction) 1/64
Toe-In in Inches (Decimal) 0.018
Toe-In in Degrees (Fraction) 1/32
Toe-In in Degrees (Decimal) 0.036
Toe-Out on Turns (1)
WHEEL ALIGNMENT SPECS (S10/15, T10/15, S/T JIMMY, & S/T BLAZER)
Application Specification
Adjustment Procedures See Fig. 3
Camber in Degrees (Fraction) 13/16 +/- 1/2
Camber in Degrees (Decimal) 0.81 +/- 0.5
Caster in Degrees (Fraction) 2 +/- 1/2
Caster in Degrees (Decimal) 2.0 +/- 0.5
Toe-In in Inches (Fraction) 3/64 +/- 3/32
Toe-In in Inches (Decimal) 0.047 +/- 0.10
Toe-In in Degrees (Fraction) 3/32 +/- 13/64
Toe-In in Degrees (Decimal) 0.094 +/- 0.203
Toe-Out on Turns (1)
ACCESSORIES & SAFETY EQUIPMENT General Motors Power Windows - Side & Tailgate
DESCRIPTION
Each power window is moved by a single permanent magnet motor. The direction in which motor turns depends
on the polarity of the voltage applied. All power window motors have a self-resetting circuit breaker built into
them.
On Blazer, Jimmy and Suburban the tailgate window is operated by an internal switch or a key. A cut-out
switch prevents operation of the window by either switch when the tailgate is open. Circuit is protected by a 30-
amp circuit breaker, located at fuse block.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
PASSENGER SIDE WINDOW WILL NOT WORK
1. With ignition switch in "RUN" or "ACC" position, check for voltage at passenger side switch. If there is
no voltage, find open between switch and fuse block. If okay, go to next step.
2. With voltage applied to Pink wire at the switch, move switch to the "UP" position. Dark Blue wire should
also have voltage. If there is no voltage, replace switch. If okay, go to next step.
3. With power window switch in the "UP" position, check for voltage on Dark Blue wire at power window
motor. If there is no voltage, find open between switch and motor.
4. If there is voltage on Dark Blue wire, connect a grounded jumper wire to Brown wire at the motor. If
motor runs, find open in ground circuit. If motor does not run, replace power window motor.
PASSENGER SIDE WINDOW WILL NOT WORK WHEN USING PASSENGER SIDE SWITCH,
WINDOW WORKS WITH MASTER SWITCH
With ignition switch in "RUN" or "ACC" position, check for voltage at Pink wire on passenger side switch. If
there is no voltage, find open between switch and instrument panel harness connector. If voltage is present,
replace switch.
PASSENGER SIDE WINDOW WILL NOT WORK WHEN USING MASTER SWITCH
1. With ignition in "RUN" or "ACC" position, check operation of driver's window. If driver's window
works, master switch has voltage. Place master switch in "UP" position and check for voltage at Dark
Blue wire.
2. If there is no voltage on Dark Blue wire, replace master switch. If voltage is present on Dark Blue wire,
find open between master switch and passenger side switch.
1. With ignition in "RUN" or "ACC" position, place master switch in "UP" position. Check for voltage at
Dark Blue wire at master switch. If voltage is not present, replace master switch. If okay, go to next step.
2. With master switch in "UP" position, check for voltage on Dark Blue wire at power window motor. If
there is no voltage, find open between switch and motor.
3. If there is voltage on Dark Blue wire, connect a grounded jumper wire to Brown wire at the motor. If
motor runs, find open in ground circuit. If motor does not run, replace power window motor.
1. Raise window to full "UP" position and tape glass to door frame to prevent it from falling. Disconnect
negative battery cable. Remove door handle bezel, armrest, door trim panel, armrest bracket and water
deflector. Disconnect regulator lift arm roller from window mount sash.
2. Drill hole through window regulator sector gear and backplate. Install a bolt and nut to lock sector gear in
position. Using a 3/16" drill bit, drill out motor attaching rivets and remove motor.
WARNING: Window regulator lift arm is under tension from counterbalance spring.
Sector gear must be locked to avoid personal injury.
Installation
Using Riveter (J-29022), fasten motor regulator with 3/16" rivets. To complete installation, reverse removal
procedures.
1. Raise window to full "UP" position and tape glass to door frame to prevent it from falling. Disconnect
battery negative cable. Remove armrest, trim panel, armrest bracket, and water deflector.
2. Disconnect harness from power window motor. Using a 3/16" drill bit, drill out motor attaching rivets and
remove motor. Push regulator forward and then slide it rearward to remove regulator arms from sash and
rail. See Fig. 1 .
3. Fold regulator arms and remove through access hole in door. Drill a hole through sector gear and
backplate. Do not drill closer than 1/2" to edge of sector gear or backplate.
4. Install a 3/4" long sheet metal screw into hole to lock sector gear. Sector gear must be locked to avoid
personal injury. Remove motor-to-regulator rivets and remove motor.
Installation
Lubricate motor drive gear and regulator sector teeth. Ensure that motor pinion gear teeth mesh properly with
sector gear. Remove screw locking sector gear. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
Fig. 1: Power Window Regulator Assembly
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Disconnect battery negative cable. Remove door trim panel. Disconnect electrical lead from switch. Switch
connector is secured with a retaining nut. Press in retaining tabs and remove power window switch. To install,
reverse removal procedure.
WARNING: Window regulator lift arm is under tension from counterbalance spring.
Sector gear must be locked to avoid personal injury.
Removal ("C", "K" & "G" Series)
1. Raise window to full "UP" position and tape glass to door frame to prevent it from falling. Disconnect
battery negative cable. Remove door lock knob, armrest, assist handle, and strap assembly (if equipped
with these items). Remove door trim panel.
2. Remove remote control bolts and set control assembly aside (if equipped). Remove window regulator-to-
door panel attaching bolts and nuts. Disconnect harness from window regulator.
3. Disengage window regulator from rollers, regulator rail, or sash channels. Collapse regulator and remove
it through access hole in door. Drill a hole through sector gear and backplate. Do not drill closer than 1/2"
to edge of sector gear or backplate.
4. Install a 3/4" long sheet metal screw into hole to lock sector gear. Sector gear must be locked to avoid
personal injury. Remove motor-to-regulator attaching screws and remove motor.
Installation
Lubricate motor drive gear and regulator sector teeth. Ensure that motor pinion gear teeth mesh properly with
sector gear. Remove screw locking sector gear. To complete installation, reverse removal procedure.
Remove tailgate cover. Disconnect drive cable and wiring harness from motor. Remove motor attaching bolts
and motor. See Fig. 2 . To install, reverse removal procedure.
1. Remove tailgate trim panel (if equipped) and cover. Disconnect control rod from center handle. Remove
center handle from tailgate. Disconnect right and left latch rods from control assembly. Remove control
assembly from tailgate.
2. Lower window and remove outer glass seal by prying clips away from tailgate. Raise or lower window as
necessary to gain access to sash channel bolts. Remove sash with glass from tailgate. Disconnect
electrical lead from motor.
3. Remove regulator assembly from tailgate. Drill a 1/8" hole through sector gear and backplate. Install a
3/4" long sheet metal screw into hole to lock sector gear. Remove motor-to-regulator attaching screws
and remove motor. To install, reverse removal procedure.
WARNING: Window regulator lift arm is under tension from counterbalance spring.
Sector gear must be locked to avoid personal injury.
Fig. 2: Power Tailgate Window Components
Courtesy of GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Remove tailgate trim panel (if equipped) and cover. Disconnect right latch rod from control assembly. Remove
latch with cut-out switch from tailgate. Disconnect wiring harness and remove cut-out switch from latch. To
install, reverse removal procedure.
WIRING DIAGRAMS
For wiring diagrams, refer to appropriate chassis wiring diagram in WIRING DIAGRAMS section.
WIPER/WASHER SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION
There are two different systems available. The first is a permanent magnet positive park system with a dynamic
brake and separate washer assembly. Washer system consists of a Permanent Magnet (PM) motor and pump
assembly. It is mounted to solution jar by a nut located inside jar. The motor can be operated only when ignition
switch is in "RUN" or "ACCESSORY" position.
The second, which is an optional motor, is a pulse mode. The components of the pulse mode are as follows:
z Multi-function switch.
z Wiring harness from multi-function switch to wiper motor.
z Wiper motor.
The difference between the two systems are that the pulse system uses an integrated circuit board to control the
pulse function, and the multi-function switch has a variable resistor (rheostat) in the switch to control the rate of
pulse to the wiper motor circuit board.
TESTING
STANDARD WIPER SYSTEM
Wiper Inoperative
1. With ignition on, and wiper switch on "HIGH", ground 12-volt test lamp and touch probe to wiper
terminal No. 1 (Lt. Blue wire). See Fig. 1 . If light glows, proceed to step 3). If lamp does not light, check
fuse.
2. If fuse is okay, repair open in feed circuit between fuse box and wiper motor. If fuse is blown, replace
fuse. If fuse blows, check for short in wiring or high amperage draw in motor.
3. If lamp came on in step 1), place switch in "LOW". Connect jumper wire to ground. If wiper runs, repair
open in ground strap. If wiper does not run, problem is in motor. Repair or replace motor as necessary.
1. With ignition on, and wiper switch in "HIGH" position, remove connector from wiper terminal. Connect
12-volt source to high speed terminal No. 1 (Lt. Blue wire). See Fig. 1 . If wiper is inoperative, repair
wiper motor.
2. With wiper in "HIGH", check for open wire from wiper terminal No. 1 (Lt. Blue wire) to column switch
and repair. If wire is okay, replace column switch.
1. With ignition on, and wiper switch in "LOW" position, remove connector from wiper terminal. Connect
12-volt source to terminal No. 2 (Black wire). See Fig. 1 . If wiper does not run, repair wiper motor.
2. If wiper runs in "LOW", check for open in wire from wiper terminal No. 2 (Black wire) to column switch
and repair. If wire is okay, replace column switch.
1. With ignition on, and wiper switch in "LOW" or "HIGH" position, remove connector from wiper
terminal. Connect 12-volt source to low or high terminals. If wiper runs at one speed, repair wiper motor.
Check for shorting of low or high speed brushes.
2. If wiper runs in both "HIGH" and "LOW", check for open in wires from terminals No. 1 (Lt. Blue wire)
and No. 2 (Black wire) to column switch and repair. See Fig. 1 . If there are no opens, replace column
switch.
1. With ignition on, and wiper switch in "PARK" position, remove connector from wiper terminal. Connect
jumper from terminal No. 2 to No. 3 and 12-volt source to terminal No. 4. See Fig. 1 . If wiper is
inoperative or does not park, repair wiper motor.
2. Check park switch actuator and brush holder. If wiper runs and parks in step 1), turn column switch off.
Check current flow between terminal No. 2 (Black wire) and terminal No. 3 (Black wire with double Lt.
Blue tracer) on harness. If lamp lights, check for open in wire from terminal No. 4 (Black wire with
double Yellow tracer) to fuse block and repair.
3. If there is no current flow in step 2), check for open in wire from terminal No. 3 (Black wire with double
Lt. Blue tracer) to column switch and repair. If there are no opens, replace column switch.
1. With ignition on and wiper switch off, remove connector from wiper terminal. Connect jumper from
terminals No. 2 and No. 3 and 12 volts to terminal No. 4. See Fig. 1 .
2. If wiper still runs, repair wiper motor (check park switch actuator and brush holder assembly). If wiper
parks, replace column switch.
1. Remove wiper fuse from fuse block and connect an ammeter across fuse block terminals. Operate wipers
in "HIGH" with windshield dry. Current draw will fluctuate. If current draw is below 5 amps, a weak
circuit is indicated. Replace brush holder assembly.
2. If current draw exceeds 5 amps, remove wiper arms, wiper blades and repeat test. If current still exceeds 5
amps, go to step 3). If current draw is okay, replace wiper blade elements and repeat test. If current draw
is okay, problem is corrected.
3. If current draw exceeded 5 amps in step 2), disconnect wiper linkage from motor crank arm and repeat
test. If current draw is okay, wiper transmission linkage is binding. Repair or replace as needed.
4. If current draw exceeds 5 amps with linkage disconnected, repair wiper motor. Check for shorted or
grounded armature.
1. With ignition on, and wiper switch in "PARK" position, remove connector from wiper terminal. Check
for open between terminal No. 3 and ground. See Fig. 1 .
2. If there is an open, repair open in motor or replace holder assembly. If there is no open, check arm and
blade location and/or transmission linkage.
1. Check to see if there is no power to the switch. To correct this check the fuse for the wiper and replace if
necessary.
2. Check to see if there is no power to the wiper motor. Do testing under SWITCH MODE TEST below. If
switch and harness fail test, check harness for shorts or opens. If harness is ok, replace switch.
3. Binding linkage or a broken wiper motor could also be a possible cause. To correct binding linkage,
disconnect motor linkage, and retry the motor. To correct a broken wiper motor, check wiper motor using
test procedure under SWITCH MODE TEST or J34660-A. If necessary repair or replace wiper motor.
If wiper motor will not shut off, there could be an inoperative circuit board and/or inoperative park switch. If
the circuit board is an inoperative, replace it. If the park switch is inoperative, check to see if it operates and
replace if necessary.
1. Check to see if there is improper voltage from the multi-function switch. Do testing under SWITCH
MODE TEST below. If switch and harness fail test, check harness for shorts or opens. If harness is ok,
replace switch.
2. Check to see if the circuit board is inoperative. If it is, replace it. Check to see if there is a broken wiper
motor. To correct this, check the wiper motor using test using test procedure under SWITCH MODE
TEST or J34660-A. If necessary repair or replace wiper motor.
Check to see if the circuit board is inoperative. If it is, replace it. Check to see if there is a broken wiper motor.
To correct this, check wiper motor using test procedure under SWITCH MODE TEST or J34660-A. If
necessary repair or replace wiper motor.
Check to see if the circuit board is inoperative. If it is, replace it. Check to see if there is improper voltage from
the multi-function switch. Do testing under SWITCH MODE TEST below. If switch and harness fail test,
check harness for shorts or opens. If harness is ok, replace switch.
If wiper does not delay between wipes, check to see if the circuit board is inoperative, and if it is, replace.
1. Check to see if there is a broken wiper motor. To correct this, check wiper motor using test procedure
under SWITCH MODE TEST or J34660-A. If necessary repair or replace wiper motor.
2. Check to see if the circuit board is inoperative. If it is, replace it. Check gear train. If it is stripped,
replace.
Removal
1. Disconnect battery negative cable. Remove wiper arms. Remove cowl vent and grille. Loosen but do not
remove transmission drive link to motor crank arm attaching nuts.
2. Detach drive link from motor crank arm. Disconnect motor electrical leads. Remove motor attaching
screws. Rotate motor upward and outward to remove.
Installation
Remove wiper motor. From housing side, drill ends off 7 rivets holding cover to housing with an 11/64" drill
bit. Remove cover.
Installation
WIPER HOUSING
Removal
1. Remove wiper motor. Remove wiper motor cover. Remove crank gear lock nut, crank arm, shaft seal,
thrust collar and washer. Push end of gear shaft through housing and remove gear assembly and washer.
2. File burr from retaining ring groove and where crank arm seats on shaft. Remove intermediate gear and
washers. Drill ends off 4 rivets holding bearings and bearing straps in place with an 11/64" drill bit. Be
careful not to get metal chips into motor.
3. Remove 6-point socket screws holding brush assembly in place. Remove armature, brush and magnet
assembly together to avoid realignment of brushes.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Use new housing, retaining ring and self-tapping screws. Position thrust
pin casing with insert about 1/32" above rear of pin.
WIRING DIAGRAMS
For wiring diagrams, refer to appropriate chassis wiring diagram in WIRING DIAGRAMS section.
System Wiring Diagrams
DEFOGGERS
Fig. 1: Defogger Circuit
HORN
Fig. 2: Horn Circuit
POWER DOOR LOCKS
Fig. 3: Power Door Lock Circuit, 2 Door
POWER WINDOWS
Fig. 4: Power Window Circuit
RADIO
Fig. 5: Radio Circuits
STARTING/CHARGING
2.5L
Fig. 6: 2.5L (VIN E), Starting Circuit
Fig. 7: Charging Circuit
2.8L
Fig. 8: 2.8L (VIN R), Starting Circuit
Fig. 9: Charging Circuit
4.3L
Fig. 10: 4.3L (VIN Z), Starting Circuit
Fig. 11: Charging Circuit
TRUNK, TAILGATE, FUEL DOOR
Fig. 12: Trunk, Tailgate, Fuel Door Circuits
WIPER/WASHER
Fig. 13: 2-Speed Wiper/Washer Circuit
Fig. 14: Pulse Wiper/Washer Circuit
Fig. 15: Rear Wiper/Washer Circuit