Welding Position
Welding Position
given a number and a letter — 1G, 2G, 3G, 4G or 1F, 2F, 3F, 4F — to indicate the position and the type of
weld required. Welds with a 1 are flat position, 2 is horizontal, 3 is vertical and 4 is overhead. F stands
for fillet weld, while G is a groove weld. A fillet weld joins together two pieces of metal that are
perpendicular or at an angle. A groove weld is made in a groove between workpieces or between
workpiece edges. Using this system, a 2G weld is a groove weld in the horizontal position.
Welders are likely to see these designations in a welding procedure specification (WPS). They are also
found on fill. Filler metal impact on welding position
The filler metal, welding process and transfer mode you use dictate which position you can weld in.
Some filler metals are designed for use in all positions, while others are restricted to flat and horizontal
only. The filler metal type includes a designation that denotes in what positions it can be used in. For
example, a flux-cored electrode may be designated as an E70T-XX or a E71T-XX. The zero in the E70T-XX
designates that the electrode can only be used in the flat and horizontal positions, where the 1 in E71T-
XX indicates a filler metal that can be used in all positions.
Regarding processes and modes of transfer, here are some general guidelines:
Use spray transfer MIG for flat and horizontal welding only.
Stick and flux-cored welding can be used in all positions, but the choice of filler metal is the main driver
in this.er metal data sheets, which call out the positional capabilities of specific filler metals.
Generally, flat is an easier position to weld in since you’re not fighting gravity. The weld puddle stays
fluid and wets into the joint evenly. As a result, operators can typically run hotter with higher deposition
rates.
You can use any welding process to weld in the flat position. Just be sure to use the recommended
techniques for whichever process you’re using. For example, the stick process produces slag, so consider
using a drag technique rather than a push technique.
The proper work angle for a flat position weld will change depending on whether the weldment is a 1G
or a 1F. If the wire or electrode is off to one side or the other, the heat won’t be focused where the two
pieces come together, and you may get incomplete fusion.
In a horizontal weld, the weld axis is roughly horizontal. Welds in the horizontal position share many
similarities with flat position welds.
A 2G weld is slightly more difficult than a 2F weld. The 2F provides a bottom shelf to ensure the weld
puddle doesn’t get out of control or sag too much. To combat the effect of gravity on the weld puddle in
a horizontal groove weld, favor the top edge of the joint slightly with the work angle, knowing the
puddle may sag a bit. In a horizontal fillet weld, keep a 45-degree angle to the joint to focus the heat
where the two pieces come together.
Don't run too hot in horizontal welds since a puddle that’s too fluid can fall victim to gravity. Tweak your
weld parameters to make sure the puddle doesn’t get too hot or too fluid.
You can also use any of the welding process in the horizontal position.
Operators can complete vertical welds in either vertical up (moving bottom to top in the weld joint) or
vertical down (moving top to bottom in the weld joint). Vertical up is typically more common, especially
on thicker materials. You may need to use this when working on a large weldment that you can't easily
move into the flat or horizontal position.
Moving up the plate for a vertical weld, the weld puddle will naturally want to sag out of the joint. If you
use the same techniques and parameters ideal for flat and horizontal welds on a vertical weld, it likely
won’t produce a quality weld.
Adjust the weld parameters to achieve the best results in vertical welds. Use a reduced wire feed speed
and voltage to ensure the puddle does not fall out of the joint. If you’re using a welding power source
with Auto-Set™ technology, be sure to use the parameters designed for a thinner material, even if
you’re welding thicker base metal. This helps keep the heat input lower to fight gravity.
Use a 90-degree travel angle for a 3G weld, and a 45-degree angle for a 3F weld.
Slowly manipulate the puddle in a way that washes it to each edge of the joint. Going straight up with a
vertical weld will typically result in a ropey bead that doesn’t wash into the edges well. Instead, hold the
toes of the weld longer and quickly move across the middle of the puddle as you travel up. Welders can
use several common techniques for this puddle manipulation — including a zigzag motion, an upside-
down T or repeated triangles stacked on top of each other — depending on the operator's preference.
In vertical welding, it’s important to make sure you’re in a comfortable position before starting to weld.
Practice first on scrap material to make sure the parameters and technique you’re using produce the
results you want. That way you can make adjustments before welding your workpiece.
Overhead welds may be required when you’re working on a fixed piece of equipment or metal that
cannot be moved. Operators may find themselves lying on the ground or floor of their shop for
overhead welding, so it’s important to find the most comfortable position with a range of motion.
The same techniques used for vertical welding often apply to overhead welding. A 4G weld will require a
slight weave or manipulation of the weld puddle to wash in at the toes better, just as with a vertical
weld. You'll also want to dial back parameters to run cooler with overhead welds, since you don’t want a
weld puddle that is too fluid that will fall out of the weld joint and onto you.
When welding in the overhead position, sparks will drop down. You may want extra protection on the
top of your head, such as a bandana under your welding helmet. Use a fully leather welding jacket,
especially with a process like stick welding, which produces more sparks and spatter.