Pleats And Thank You Top | Pleated Shoulder Top

Pleated at the shoulder, relaxed throughout the body, this top has
got you covered through all activities during your day. Shoulder pads
lift this piece into a sophisticated, modern wardrobe staple that can be
dressed up or down. Featuring a classic crew neck and a long keyhole
opening at the center back, this sweet pattern is a joy to sew and wear.
Ready to sew the perfect top?
Don’t mind if I do, Pleats And Thank You.

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Skills Included: Sizes 0-18 B-cup Range

• French Seams
bust 32”-43.5” (81-110 cm)
• Clean Finish Seams
waist 25”-36.5” (64-93 cm)
• Understitch
hip 36”-47.5” (91-121 cm)
• Edgestitch
• Sewing Pleats
• Constructing a Keyhole opening Sizes 14-30 D-cup Range
with a Facing bust 42”-57.5” (107-146 cm)
• Burrito Method for the Armholes waist 33”-48.5” (84-123 cm)
• Inserting Shoulder Pads hip 44”-59.5” (112-151 cm)

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© Forest & Thread LLC, all rights reserved | For personal use only | Designed in Brooklyn, New York
 In order to best complete your sewing project, read through all the instructions prior
to starting your journey. Detailed tutorial guides are available for every pattern on our
INTRO website at forestandthread.com/tutorials
Make sure to check out the step-by-step tutorials to answer any questions you may have
along the way.

Find the size that corresponds closest to your personal

measurements in the size chart below. Patterns are
SIZE SELECTION designed for a 5’8” (172cm) tall person. The following
measurements are needed to determine your size:

HIGH BUST | The circumference above your chest, under arms, and below your shoulder blades

FULL BUST | The fullest part of your chest, often times across the apex

WAIST | The smallest part of your torso, directly underneath your rib cage and above your hip bones

HIP | The widest part of your hips, patterns drafted for 8” below the waistline

SIZE CHART | B-Cup

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

HIGH in 30 31 32 33 34 35 36.5 38 39.5 41.5

BUST cm 76 79 81 84 86 89 93 97 100 105
FULL in 32 33 34 35 36 37 38.5 40 41.5 43.5
BUST cm 81 84 86 89 91 94 98 102 105 110
in 25 26 27 28 29 30 31.5 33 34.5 36.5
WAIST
cm 64 66 69 71 74 76 80 84 88 93
in 36 37 38 39 40 41 42.5 44 45.5 47.5
HIP
cm 91 94 97 99 102 104 108 112 116 121

SIZE CHART | D-Cup

14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

HIGH in 38 39.5 41.5 43.5 45.5 47.5 49.5 51.5 53.5

BUST cm 97 100 105 110 116 121 126 131 136
FULL in 42 43.5 45.5 47.5 49.5 51.5 53.5 55.5 57.5
BUST cm 107 110 116 121 126 131 136 141 146
in 33 34.5 36.5 38.5 40.5 42.5 44.5 46.5 48.5
WAIST
cm 84 88 93 98 103 108 113 118 123
in 44 45.5 47.5 49.5 51.5 53.5 55.5 57.5 59.5
HIP
cm 112 116 121 126 131 136 141 146 151

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 2

FIT RECOMMENDATIONS

The Fit Description

The Pleats And Thank You Pattern is a very relaxed fit, oversized top with plenty of ease built in. The neckline sits close
to the collarbone with a long keyhole opening at the center back to get in and out of the top. You can choose 1 or 2
buttons to close the keyhole opening. The top button is necessary for closing the neckline and the middle button at
the chest height is optional, but may be preferred if you want to keep the back a bit more closed off. The neckline
and armholes are finished off with an interfaced facing. The #3 Front Facing piece is the most fitted pattern piece of
the entire top, but no need to worry because it is curved to rest above your chest so no fitting adjustments should be
required! The shoulders are meant to be exaggerated and come away from the shoulder edge of your body, which is
controlled with the shoulder pad construction. The pleats at the shoulder seam are meant to fall down the body and
open up around the chest, giving a beautiful drape.

If you are between sizes, size down.

Adjusting For Height & Proportions

The pattern is drafted for a 5’8” (172cm) tall person so you may
wish the shorten or lengthen accordingly. Pattern piece #1 Front
and #2 Back have 2 separate shorten/lengthen lines at the waist
grainline

and hip. It is recommended to disperse the necessary height

adjustment across the 2 separate lines to maintain the same
proportion as the original design. The top has some shaping down
the #1 Front and #2 Back piece that will start to disappear if you
only remove or add length to one line at the waist or hip.

You can refer to the finished garment measurements on the

following pages to compare your personal measurements and
P L E AT S A N D TH A N K YO U PAT T E R N
J U M P S U I T & TO P
determine how much length is needed to remove or add. Compare
1 FRONT
CUT 2 - SELF FABRIC the LENGTH FROM HPS (HIGH POINT SHOULDER) to your personal
measurement from HPS to determine how much length you would
waist - shorten or lengthen here
like to remove or add.

hip - shorten or lengthen here

cut here for TOP view

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 3

FINISHED
MEASUREMENTS

0-18 B-Cup
B-CUP 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18
in 48 5/8 49 5/8 50 5/8 51 5/8 52 5/8 53 5/8 55 1/8 56 5/8 58 1/8 60 1/8
BUST
cm 123.5 126.0 128.6 131.1 133.7 136.2 140.1 143.9 147.8 152.9
in 44 1/4 45 1/4 46 1/4 47 1/4 48 1/4 49 1/4 50 7/8 52 3/8 53 7/8 55 7/8
WAIST
cm 112.5 115.1 117.6 120.1 122.7 125.2 129.1 132.9 136.8 141.9
in 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 1/2 54 1/8 54 1/8 54 1/8
HIP
cm 117.0 119.5 122.0 124.6 127.1 129.7 133.4 137.4 137.4 137.4
LENGTH FROM HPS in 22 3/8 22 5/8 23 23 1/4 23 1/2 23 7/8 24 1/4 24 1/2 24 7/8 25 1/8
(HIGH POINT SHOULDER) cm 56.7 57.5 58.3 59.1 59.7 60.6 61.6 62.3 63.1 64.0
in 47 3/4 49 50 51 52 53 54 5/8 56 1/8 57 5/8 59 5/8
HEM CIRCUMFERENCE
cm 121.4 124.3 127.0 129.7 132.2 134.9 138.7 142.5 146.3 151.3

14-30 D-Cup
D-CUP 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30
in 55 7/8 57 3/8 59 3/8 61 3/8 63 3/8 65 3/8 67 3/8 69 3/8 71 3/8
BUST
cm 141.9 145.7 150.8 155.9 161.0 166.1 171.1 176.2 181.3
in 52 1/4 53 3/4 55 3/4 57 3/4 59 3/4 61 3/4 63 3/4 65 3/4 67 3/4
WAIST
cm 132.7 136.5 141.6 146.7 151.8 156.8 161.9 167.0 172.1
in 54 1/8 55 5/8 57 5/8 59 5/8 61 5/8 63 5/8 65 5/8 67 5/8 69 5/8
HIP
cm 137.5 141.3 146.4 151.4 156.5 161.6 166.7 171.8 176.8
LENGTH FROM HPS in 25 7/8 26 1/8 26 3/8 26 3/4 27 27 3/8 27 5/8 27 7/8 28 1/4
(HIGH POINT SHOULDER) cm 65.7 66.4 67.0 67.9 68.6 69.5 70.2 70.8 71.8
in 56 5/8 58 60 61 7/8 63 3/4 65 3/4 67 5/8 69 5/8 71 1/2
HEM CIRCUMFERENCE
cm 143.7 147.4 152.3 157.2 161.9 166.9 171.8 176.9 181.6

LENGTH

BUST

WAIST

HIP

HEM CIRCUMFERENCE

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 4

KEY POINTS BEFORE STARTING GLOSSARY PAGE 33
You will find fabric requirements and other sewing supplies needed below. Gather your materials based
on the fabric consumption listed for your corresponding size. Other sewing materials listed apply for all
sizes.

There is a GLOSSARY on page 33 for any terms or further explanation of stitches you may need. Words in
bold italic are found in the GLOSSARY.

It is recommended to wash your fabric prior to cutting when making garments to avoid any unwanted
shrinkage. Follow the washing instructions for your specific fabric.

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS
MATERIALS
The Pleats And Thank You Top is best suited for
Self fabric (your main fabric) light to midweight woven materials. The top is
Lightweight to midweight fusible interfacing finished with a self facing around the neck and
Matching all-purpose thread to your fabric armhole which could get quite bulky if your fabric
Optional: top stitching thread is too heavy. The pleated shoulder detail will
fall differently depending on the drape of your
1x pair of shoulder pads 1/2” (13mm) thick fabric. A stiffer fabric will create a more structured
*recommended size: 7 3/4” (19.7cm) long X 4 3/4” (12cm) width appearance, while a relaxed fabric will produce
1x or 2x 18L (7/16” or 11mm) buttons a natural drape down the body. Light to medium
*although a range of button sizes will work! weight linen, cotton shirting, voile, or silk could all
work really well with this pattern. Other options
could be wool suiting, crepe back satin or tencel/
lyocell twill.

FABRIC YIELDS

44” (112cm) FABRIC WIDTH

(includes 5% shrinkage) 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

yd 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.8 2 2.1 2.25 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.7
SELF
m 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.6 1.8 1.9 2.1 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.3 2.3 2.5

60” (153cm) FABRIC WIDTH

(includes 5% shrinkage) 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

yd 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.25 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.6 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.75 1.85
SELF
m 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.5 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.7

60” (153cm) INTERFACING

WIDTH 0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30
(includes 5% shrinkage)

yd 0.5 0.5 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.7 0.7
FUSIBLE INTERFACING
m 0.5 0.5 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.7 0.7

The fabric requirements listed above include a 5% allowance for shrinkage. Keep in mind that if you are using a printed fabric or a
material that must be cut in one direction, your fabric requirements may be higher.

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 5

 Use the layouts on the following pages to piece
together your pattern when printing at home on
letter or A4 size paper. The pattern is provided in
color, but can also be printed in black & white if
PREPARE YOUR PATTERN you select “print in grayscale” in your print window.
Printing in black & white will not affect how the
pattern comes together. Color is just for fun and to
brighten your day a bit!

The digital PDF is saved in layers which

allows you to turn off the sizes you do not
wish to print in Adobe Acrobat. (Even the free
version which you can download here.)

Make sure to keep the TEXT/ALL SIZES layer

on for any size you choose to print.

Select layers here

Turn on or off sizes by

clicking this eye icon here

Print the first page only to begin and measure your 3” (or 10cm) test square. This will ensure the pattern
is printed at 100% scale.

Select Custom Scale 100%

Make sure choose or Actual Size
paper source by PDF
page size is unchecked Select Auto paper
orientation

Follow the key indicating which pages to print per view (located on the following pages) if you would like
to only print the pages needed for your selected view.

Use the paper notches on each page in order to connect the overall pattern pieces. Each notch has a
number and letter which corresponds to the next page that sits along that same edge of the paper. Trim
away the paper along the black outline on the bottom edge and right side. This allows you to overlap the
next page and line up the notches with ease. Tape along each edge, making sure to add tape where your
pattern piece meets as well. This is especially important if you plan to cut out of your assembled paper
pattern and not trace onto tracing paper.

After assemblying your paper pattern, either trace your pattern pieces onto tracing paper or cut into your
taped paper pattern along the lines which correspond to your chosen size. Recycle the leftover paper and
scraps.

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 6

PREPARE YOUR PATTERN 0-18 B-Cup

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11

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4
ALL SIZES

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�B �B 10 J � � � � � � � belt option
B � �� S � � � � S � � � � � � �D �D �F �F �H �H �J �J �L �L �N �N
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Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 7

knee - shorten or lengthen here

knee - shorten or lengthen here

�A �C �E �G �I �K �M �O
�A �C �E �G �I �K �M �O
CUTTER’S MUST DESIGNER: FOREST & THREAD
STYLE: PLEATS AND THANK YOU TOP
FABRICATION: WOVEN

PATTERN PIECES
SELF FABRIC
# TO CUT
#3
1 Front 2 #4 #8
2 Back 2
3 Front Facing 1
4 Back Facing 2
8 Button Loop 1 or 2

PATTERN PIECES
INTERFACING
# TO CUT
3 Front Facing 1
#2 #1
4 Back Facing 2

TRIMS NOTES
1x (or 2x) 18L Buttons for Center Back Closure 1/2” (13mm) seam allowance unless otherwise
indicated below
1x Pair of Shoulder Pads
1/4” (6mm) seam allowance - {neckline, armhole,
#3 Front Facing and #4 Back Facing Hems, and
#8 Button Loop}

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 8

 Place your pattern pieces on your self fabric as shown
in the following layouts. Use the layout correct for your
chosen fabric width and size. Size layouts start on the
following page.

Lay out your fabric on a flat and even surface safe

CUT OUT YOUR FABRIC for cutting with the right side of your fabric facing up.
Layouts require folding your fabric in half along the
grainline (selvedge to selvedge) or along the crossgrain
(cut end to cut end) with wrong sides facing. You may
also conserve additional fabric by cutting your pattern
flat if you wish to play a bit of Tetris!

The grey pattern pieces indicate that you need to flip your pattern piece to be laying face down. The
yellow pattern pieces indicate that you only need to cut one of that pattern piece, so you will see some
pattern pieces layered on top of each other showing you can cut each layer separately to fit both pieces.
Pattern piece #3 Front Facing is cut on the fold to create one full piece.

Flip your pattern piece to be face down Only cut 1

Pin the pattern pieces in place making sure the grainline is parallel to the selvedge of the fabric.
Keeping your fabric and scissors resting on the table (or your rotary cutter and mat), cut out your fabric
along the edge of your pattern pieces.

*Make sure to use a sharp pair of fabric scissors or rotary cutter. It truly makes the world of difference when cutting fabric!

OVERVIEWS ALL SIZES

60” (153cm) | interfacing width
Interfacing FUSIBLE INTERFACING
3 Front Facing | Cut 1
4 Back Facing | Cut 2 Cut out your fusible interfacing according to the layout on
ALL SIZES
the left. Lay out your fusible interfacing folded in half along
the grainline (selvedge to selvedge) with glue sides facing.

�
�
*Reduce the seam allowance by 1/8” on all your interfacing
pieces before applying them to your cut fabric to avoid thick
folded edge

seams, especially when using heavier weight fabrications.

Iron your corresponding fusible interfacing to your cut fabric

pieces. Apply the glue side of the interfacing to the wrong
side of your fabric. Press firmly until your interfacing holds
flush to your fabric.

SAVE YOUR SCRAPS

Keep all the excess fabric leftovers after cutting. I will be sharing project ideas and tutorials for your
fabric scraps specifically so keep on the look out as you gather more leftovers!

Using a water soluble pencil, tailor’s chalk, or whatever

marking tool you prefer, mark your notches based off of
your paper pattern. MARK YOUR NOTCHES
*The notches on this pattern are the little lines in the seam allowance.
Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 9
Self Fabric OVERVIEWS 0-18 B-Cup
1 Front | Cut 2
2 Back | Cut 2 44” (112cm) | fabric width
3 Front Facing | Cut 1
4 Back Facing | Cut 2 Flip your pattern piece to be face down
8 Button Loop | Cut 1 or 2

SIZES 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10

�
� �
�
�

SIZES 12 | 14 | 16
folded edge

�
� �

SIZES 18
�

� �
folded edge

�
�
�

folded edge
Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 10
Self Fabric OVERVIEWS 0-18 B-Cup
1 Front | Cut 2
2 Back | Cut 2 60” (153cm) | fabric width
3 Front Facing | Cut 1
4 Back Facing | Cut 2 Flip your pattern piece to be face down
8 Button Loop | Cut 1 or 2

SIZES 0 | 2 | 4 | 6 | 8 | 10 SIZES 12

� �
� �

� �

�
folded edge

folded edge
� �
�

SIZES 14 | 16 | 18
�

�
�

�
�

folded edge

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 11

Self Fabric OVERVIEWS 14-18 D-Cup
1 Front | Cut 2
2 Back | Cut 2 44” (112cm) | fabric width
3 Front Facing | Cut 1
4 Back Facing | Cut 2 Flip your pattern piece to be face down
8 Button Loop | Cut 1 or 2

SIZES 14 | 16 SIZES 18

� �

� � �
� �

�
�

�
folded edge folded edge

SIZES 20 | 22 | 24 SIZES 26 | 28 | 30

�
�

� �
� �

�
�
�
�

folded edge folded edge

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 12

Self Fabric OVERVIEWS 14-18 D-Cup
1 Front | Cut 2
2 Back | Cut 2 60” (153cm) | fabric width
3 Front Facing | Cut 1
4 Back Facing | Cut 2 Flip your pattern piece to be face down
8 Button Loop | Cut 1 or 2
SIZES 14 | 16 | 18 | 20 SIZE 22

�
�

�
� � �

folded edge

folded edge
� �
�
�

SIZE 24 | 26 | 28 | 30

� � �

�
�

folded edge
Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 13
 GLOSSARY PAGE 33

Right and left in the following instructions refer to the

SEW YOUR GARMENT right-hand side and the left-hand side of the garment
when being worn right side out.

RIGHT SIDE

ILLUSTRATION KEY WRONG SIDE

All seam allowances are
included and are 1/2” (13mm) INTERFACING
unless otherwise noted.

1 | Prepare your pattern.

2 | Prepare your fabric.

3 | Cut out your fabric.

4 | Mark your notches. Make sure to mark the center front

notch on any pattern pieces that are cut on the fold.

5 | APPLY YOUR FUSIBLE INTERFACING

5a | Using the appropriate iron setting for your 5b | Repeat this method for the #4 Back
fabric choice, lay your #3 Front Facing fabric Facing pieces.
face down and your matching interfacing
piece glue side down on top. Press slowly and
carefully over the interfacing until it adheres to
the fabric.

HELPFUL HINT:
Lift your iron up and
spot press it first
to make sure you
do not stretch the
interfacing as you
move the iron.

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 14

6 | PREPARE YOUR PLEATS

6a | Staystitch your neckline on the #1 Front 6c | Pin your second pleat in place by bringing
pieces using roughly 1/8” (3mm) seam allowance. the third notch over to the fourth notch, working
away from the neckline. The fold of the pleat
on the wrong side of your fabric should be
brought towards the neckline again. Follow the
arrows on your paper pattern to fold the correct
direction.
4 3 3 4

6b | Following the marked notches on your

#1 Front pieces, fold your pleats according to
the paper pattern. With right sides facing, pin
the first notch closest to the neckline to the
second notch along the shoulder edge. The
fold of the pleat on the wrong side of your
fabric should be brought towards the neckline.
Follow the arrows on your paper pattern to fold
the correct direction.

1 1
4 3 2 2 3
4

6d | Sew a straight stitch along your shoulder

edge securing the folded pleats in place, using
roughly 1/8” (3mm) seam allowance. Press.

6e | Repeat steps 6a-6d for your #2 Back

pieces.

HELPFUL HINT:
Be extra careful during these meticulous folding steps to
create the pleats! After all, the pattern is named after this
detail right? ♡
Make sure to line up the folds with the notches indicated
as precisely as possible, otherwise the fabric may not
drape how intended. You can pin the pleats in place and
hold the #1 Front piece up from the shoulder. Is the fabric
draping nicely? If not, try adjusting the folded edge of
each pleat slightly up, down, or over to get a beautiful
gentle fold down the fabric. Tiny differences can make a
huge impact!
Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 15
7 | SEW YOUR CENTER FRONT SEAM overlock or zig-zag stitch
7a | Finish the raw edges of your center front
Sew your center front seam together with either
with an overlock or zig-zag stitch.
the clean finish option or the overlock/zig-zag
option as follows.

clean finish
7a | Pin your #1 Front pieces right sides together
along the center front. Sew with 1/2” (13mm)
seam allowance.

7b | Pin your #1 Front pieces right sides together

along the center front. Sew with 1/2” (13mm)
seam allowance. Press your seam allowances
open.

7b | Finish the raw edges of your seam

allowance with either a clean finish. (See page
51 for how to sew a clean finish). Press your
seam allowances open. Optional | If you chose to finish the raw edges
with an overlock or zig-zag stitch, you may opt
to do a decorative topstitch detail which mimics
how the clean finish looks when completed.
Simply sew a topstitch along the center front
seam on either side of the seam using 1/4”
(6mm) seam allowance.

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 16

8 | SEW YOUR CENTER BACK SEAM
If you plan to finish the center back edges with an overlock or zig-zag stitch, you may wish to finish your
center back edges prior to sewing the #2 Back pieces together. See step 8c for seam finishing details.

8a | Pin your #2 Back pieces right sides together 8b | Measure 1” (2.5cm) down from the notch (or
along the center back from the hem up until the top of your stitch line). Clip the seam allowance
first notch. Sew with 1/2” (13mm) seam allowance, by 1/4” (6mm) at this 1” (2.5cm) measurement.
from the hem up until the first notch only.

1” (2.5cm)

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 17

8 | SEW YOUR CENTER BACK SEAM

8c | Finish the raw edges of your seam allowance with either a clean finish or an overlock or zig-zag
stitch from the clipped seam allowance down to the hem. (See page 34 for how to sew a clean finish).
Press your seam allowances open.

clean finish

overlock or zig-zag stitch

CLOSE UP

CLOSE UP

Optional | If you chose to finish the raw edges with an overlock or zig-zag stitch, you may opt to do
a decorative topstitch detail which mimics how the clean finish looks when completed. Simply sew a
topstitch along the center back seam on either side of the seam using 1/4” (6mm) seam allowance -
ONLY from the clipped seam allowance down to the hem. You will topstitch the remaining section of
the keyhole opening later on.

CLOSE UP

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 18

9 | SEW YOUR SHOULDER SEAMS

9a | Pin your #1 Front to your #2 Back with right sides together along the shoulder edges, matching
the pleats along the way. The shoulder edges have a diagonal corner edge along the armscye with a
marked dot. Make sure to match the marked dot and diagonal corner edges as you pin.

9b | Sew together with 1/2” (13mm) seam allowance. Pivot your needle at the marked dot to continue
stitching along the diagonal corner edge with 1/2” (13mm) seam allowance.

9c | Notch the corner edge where you pivoted your needle.

Press your seam allowances open.

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 19

10 | ASSEMBLE YOUR FACING

10a | Pin your #3 Front Facing right sides together with your #4 Back Facing pieces along the shoulder
edges. Sew with 1/2” (13mm) seam allowance. Press your seam allowances open.

10b | Pin your #4 Back Facing pieces right sides together from the hem up until the first notch. Sew
with 1/2” (13mm) seam allowance just from the hem up until the first notch. Press your seam allowances
open.
From now on your #3 Front Facing and #4 Back Facing will be referred to as your Facing.

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 20

11 | ATTACH YOUR BUTTON LOOPS

11a | Fold your #8 Button Loop right sides Optional | Repeat steps 11a-11c for your second
together lengthwise and pin. Sew with 1/4” (6mm) #8 Button Loop if you want your finished
seam allowance. garment to have 2 buttons along the keyhole
opening.

11d | Pin the #8 Button Loop on the face side

11b | Trim your seam allowance down to 1/8” of the left #2 Back center back edge. The top
(3mm). Turn your #8 Button Loop right side out #8 Button Loop should be placed 3/8” (1cm)
using a loop turner or a tiny safety pin. Press the down from the center back neckline edge. The
seam allowance directly on the edge. optional bottom #8 Button Loop should be
placed at the notch along the center back edge.
The #8 Button Loops should be pinned while
folded in half to form a flat loop. The rounded
loop edge should be coming away from the
center back raw edge.

11c | Fold your #8 Button Loop in half and layer

one edge on top of the other to create a flat
loop. Trim the loop to be 1” (2.5cm) total when
folded into this loop.

1” (2.5cm)

11e | Sew with 1/4” (6mm) seam allowance to

secure the #8 Button Loop in place.

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 21

12 | ATTACH YOUR FACING

12a | Pin your Facing right sides together with 12c | Press the seam allowance towards the
your #1 Front and #2 Back along the neckline Facing. You may find it helpful to use a rounded
matching shoulder seams and center back surface for this step such as a tailor’s ham, the
edges. The Facing piece is 1/8” (3mm) smaller rounded tip of your ironing board, or even a
along the neckline edge, so you will want to rolled-up towel!
ease the neckline together to match them. This
slight difference in size helps force the Facing to
roll inwards while wearing the finished garment.
Make sure not to pin your #8 Button Loop within
the neckline, rather keep it just below!

12d | Sew an understitch along the neckline

on the Facing, making sure to catch the seam
allowance on the underneath side.

12b | Sew together with 1/4” (6mm) seam

allowance.

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 22

12 | ATTACH YOUR FACING

12e | Pin your Facing right sides together 12g | Repeat this same method for the right
with your #2 Back along the center back raw side. Gently pull the seam allowance on the
edges. Pin just the left side first, making sure #2 Back and Facing over towards the left to
to keep your #8 Button Loops sandwiched in continue the stitch line seamlessly. Sew with 1/2”
between. You will need to gently pull your seam (13mm) seam allowance continuing the stitch
allowance on the #2 Back and Facing over line exactly from where you previously left off
towards the right at the bottom of the keyhole below the notch up to the neckline.
opening.

12h | Trim your center back corners along the

seam allowance.
12f | Sew with 1/2” (13mm) seam allowance
continuing the stitch line exactly from where
you previously left off below the notch up to the
neckline.

12i | Turn your garment right side out. Press the

center back seams to be directly on the edge
with the #8 Button Loops sticking out along
the left side. Press the neckline edge so that the
seam rolls slightly under, which should naturally
happen due to the understitch.

HELPFUL HINT:
Avoid sewing OVER your previous
stitch line, otherwise you may end
up with an unwanted bump in the
intersection of the center back
seam and the keyhole opening.
Better to even leave a teeny-tiny
space between the stitch lines,
rather than overlap them!

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 23

13 | SEW YOUR ARMHOLE WITH THE BURRITO METHOD

13a | With the body face up, begin rolling the left 13b | Bring the right armhole edge of your
side of the body and Facing towards the right Facing under the rolled up piece and around
side of the body. Continue rolling the body and the top to meet the right armhole edge of your
Facing together until the garment is nicely on top body, wrapping the rolled up garment like
of the right shoulder. a burrito. Pin the right armhole edges right
sides together. Match the shoulder seams and
notches along the way. You will need to ease
the edges together because the Facing armhole
is 1/8” (3mm) smaller than the body armhole
edge. This slight difference in size helps force
the Facing to roll inwards while wearing the
finished garment.

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 24

13 | SEW YOUR ARMHOLE WITH THE BURRITO METHOD

13c | Sew along the armhole edge with 1/4” 13d | Place your shoulder pad face down on top
(6mm) seam allowance. Make sure to sew along of the wrong side of your shoulder seam on the
the straight top edge of your sides as well with body layer. Pin the shoulder pad ever-so-slightly
1/4” (6mm) seam allowance and pivot your over the previously sewn stitch line using the
needle to continue along the curved armhole. notches along the armhole to indicate the start
and end of your shoulder pad location. You
will want to gently roll the bottom edge of your
shoulder pad (which is the edge that is currently
facing up) away from the lifted side edge to
give yourself a place to stitch it down without
flattening the shoulder pad.

FACE SIDE

HELPFUL HINT:
Some shoulder pads
are not symmetrical!
Depending on the shoulder
pad you are using, make
sure to align the correct
orientation to the front
and back to get the best
possible shape in the end.
Typically, if the shoulder
pad is not symmetrical, the
longer section is placed at
the back.

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 25

13 | SEW YOUR ARMHOLE WITH THE BURRITO METHOD

13e | Sew the shoulder pad in place using a 1/4” 13f | Carefully, turn your garment right side
(6mm) seam allowance, almost sewing with the out. This part may be a bit tricky, but do not
shoulder pad positioned vertically up away from worry! Just keep gently pulling the body of the
the garment to prevent flattening the shoulder garment out from within the burrito and you will
pad edge. You may wish to use a zig-zag stitch eventually see your beautifully finished armhole!
for this step and just catch the very edge of the Give your armhole seam a little press, using a
shoulder pad on one side of the zig-zag stitch, curved surface to maintain the shaping and not
sewing within the seam allowance along your flattening the shoulder pad. Instead, press the
armhole. shoulder pad area from the side to create a 3D
HELPFUL HINT: edge.
Avoid sewing directly
through the actual
padding of your shoulder
pad - depending on what
type of shoulder pad you
are using, sew through
just the casing layer
around the padding or
just the layer facing up
currently.

13g | Repeat steps 13a-13f on your second

armhole.

HELPFUL HINT:
You may wish to hand tack the rounded edge of
your shoulder pad closest to the neck to keep
the shoulder pad from shifting during wearing
and washing. To do this, hand sew a few stitches
directly into the shoulder seam to hide any visible
stitch lines from the outside. Sew directly through
the shoulder pad and facing layers.

french seam option continue to step 14 on page 27

overlock or zig-zag option continue to step 15 on page 29

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 26

14 | FRENCH SEAM - SEW YOUR SIDE SEAMS
The following step shows you how to sew your side seams using a French seam finishing technique. If
you wish to sew your side seams using an overlock or zig-zag stitch, skip this step and follow step 15
instead on page 29.
14a | Bring the pieces WRONG sides together. 14d | Press your seam allowance in one
Pin your #1 Front and #2 Back together along direction.
the side edges. Pull the Facing up away from
the body as well as the seam allowance. Leave
it free for the moment and start pinning from
the armhole seam down to the hem. Match the
armhole seam.

14e | Flip your piece to be RIGHT sides together

and press your seam to be directly on the edge.

14b | Sew with 1/4” (6mm) seam allowance.

14c | Trim off 1/8” (3mm) from your seam 14f | Pin the Facing raw edges RIGHT sides
allowance. together.

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 27

14 | FRENCH SEAM - SEW YOUR SIDE SEAMS

14g | Sew using 1/2” (13mm) just along the

Facing edges. Transition to sewing with a 1/4”
(6mm) seam allowance along the side seam.

14h | Open your piece flat and press the seam

towards the #2 Back. Fold your Facing down
and press the armhole seam to be rolled slightly
inwards.

BACK

continue to step 16 on page 30

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 28

15 | OVERLOCK OR ZIG-ZAG STITCH - SEW YOUR SIDE SEAMS
The following step shows you how to sew your side seams using an overlock or zig-zag stitch finishing
technique. If you wish to sew your side seams using a French seam, skip this step and follow the previous
step 14 instead on page 27.

15a | Bring the pieces RIGHT sides together. Pull

the Facing up away from the body as well as
the seam allowance. Pin the Facing together 15c | Finish the seam allowance with an
along the side edges and match the armhole overlock or zig-zag stitch. Press the seam
seam. Continue pinning from the armhole seam allowance towards the #2 Back.
down along the side edges of the #1 Front and
#2 Back all the way to the hem.

15b | Sew with 1/2” (13mm) seam allowance.

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 29

16 | SEW YOUR HEM

16a | Along the bottom hem of your garment, 16c | Sew an edgestitch around the entirety of
fold under 1/4” (6mm) towards the wrong side of the hem of your garment.
your fabric and press in place.

16b | Fold under 1/4” (6mm) a second time

around the same bottom hem to enclose the
raw edge completely. Press in place again.

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 30

17 | FINISH YOUR FACING

17a | Finish the bottom hem of your Facing with 17b | Fold your Facing back in place within
option 1 or 2 below. the finished garment. Pin the Facing to the
body along the underarm side seam. Stitch in
option 1 | single fold hem - fold under 1/4” the ditch from the outside of your garment to
(6mm) along the entire hem of your Facing. Sew secure the Facing within the body, just sewing
with an edgestitch using an 1/8” (3mm) seam the length of the Facing along the side seam.
allowance to secure the fold in place. Repeat on both side seams.

option 2 | overlock or zig-zag stitch - finish the

entire hem of your Facing with an overlock or
zig-zag stitch. Try your best not to stretch the
curves out as you sew, otherwise you may have
unwanted bubbling while wearing the finished
garment. Give the finished edge a press to help
it lay flat while wearing.

17c | If you did a clean finish or you chose to

do the optional topstitching detailing along
the center back rise, then you will want to finish
off the stitch line along the center back keyhole
edges. Sew a topstitch from the top end of
your previous stitch line along the center back
edges up to the neckline which is the very top
of the keyhole opening. Use a 1/4” (6mm) seam
allowance. Repeat on both sides of the keyhole
opening.

OPTIONAL PLEATS AT THE WAIST:

If you wish to add some additional shaping to the
waistline, you can sew down your pleats at the waist.
While wearing your finished top, use pins or safety
pins to secure the pleats at your natural waist. You
can add 1 or 2 pleats on either side of the center front
seam and the center back seam, using the pleats at
your shoulder as a guide for where to continue the
folds at the waist. Make sure you can still get in and
out of your top while the pleats are pinned in place!
After taking off your garment, balance the pleats on
either side to make them relatively symmetrical in
depth. Using pins or a marking tool, mark the length
you wish to sew down the pleats. Approximately 1-2”
(2.5-5cm) is a good place to start! Edgestitch each
pleat in place. Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 31
21 | ADD BUTTONS

Add buttons to your keyhole opening on the opposite center back edge to where your button loops
are located. The original design is to sew your buttons to the WRONG side of the keyhole opening,
which results in hidden buttons while wearing the finished garment. The closure works with buttons
sewn either to the RIGHT side or WRONG side of the keyhole opening though, so pick your favorite
way! The below illustrates marking and sewing your buttons to the WRONG side.

21a | With your garment WRONG side out, mark 21b | Hand sew your chosen button on using a
the button placement on the Facing by lining buttonhole stitch to create a thread shank, giving
up the center back keyhole edges side-by-side. necessary space between the button and fabric
Mark where the button loop reaches to on the for the button loop to rest while closed.
Facing using your favorite marking tool.

BUTTONHOLE STITCH
The buttonhole stitch is used in a number of ways when hand sewing. It can be
used for hand-worked buttonholes as well as to make button shanks, decorative
button loops and decorative edges on fabric. For the Pleats & Thank You Pattern,
the buttonhole stitch is used for making the button thread shank.
Loop the thread around your stitches and pull your needle through the loop.

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Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 32

HELPFUL TERMS GLOSSARY
Throughout the instructions you may come across terms that are unfamiliar to you. Have no fear, the
Forest & Thread Pleats And Thank You Pattern Glossary is here! You will find definitions and additional
illustrations for those new-to-you sewing words and phrases below.
18L

18L refers to the button size requirement. “L” stands for ligne, the traditional unit of measure for measuring
buttons. The word “ligne” comes from the French word for line and is a historic unit of measurement for
length.
BASTING STITCH
A stitch technique used to temporarily hold fabric together. The stitches are longer and looser so they are
easier to remove. A basting stitch can be done by hand or machine.
CLIP AND NOTCH YOUR CURVES

When sewing curves, you want to clip your seam allowance on an

inward curve and notch your seam allowance on an outward curve. CLIP
EDGESTITCH INSIDE CURVES
A stitch line about 1/8” (3mm) away from a folded edge or a seam line. It is
used to reinforce seams or as a decorative stitch. The distance away from the
folded edge or seam line can vary depending on design, fabrication, and tools
available. In this pattern, use 1/8” (3mm) measurement for your edgestitch.
GRADE YOUR SEAM ALLOWANCE
Trim your seam allowance to be different widths on each layer of fabric. NOTCH
OVERLOCK OUTSIDE CURVES
A stitch that simultaneously sews and finishes the raw edge of fabrics
for a clean finish that prevents fraying. Typically, an overlock machine
(also known as a serger) will cut the edge of your fabric as you sew.
PRESS YOUR SEAM ALLOWANCES OPEN

Pressing your seam allowances open helps to reduce bulk and helps with
certain construction elements when multiple seams come together. To press a
seam open, all you have to do is push one layer of the seam allowance in one
direction and the other layer of the seam allowance in the other direction. Easy!

SELF FABRIC
The fabric that makes up the outside of a garment, also referred to as the main fabric.
STAYSTITCH

Sew a straight stitch along a single layer of fabric to stop any stretching from occurring.
STITCH IN THE DITCH
A stitch technique used to secure fabric in place by sewing in the channel (the ditch) of a previously
existing seam resulting in an invisible stitch line from the outside.
TOPSTITCH
A stitch line that shows on the face of a garment. Typically, a topstitch is sewn with the right side of your
garment facing up.
UNDERSTITCH
A stitch line close to a seam on the edge of a garment to keep the inside layer of fabric from rolling to the
outside.
ZIG-ZAG STITCH
A stitch that goes back and forth in order to lock in the raw edges to prevent fraying.

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DETAILED STITCH INSTRUCTIONS
HOW TO SEW A CLEAN FINISH

A clean finish is a technique used to finish the raw edges of your seam allowance using a simple straight
stitch. This technique is ideal for seams that need to remain pressed open. There are multiple ways to sew
a clean finish seam, but the chosen method below results in a beautiful stitch detail on the outside of your
garment. For the Pleats & Thank You Pattern, the instructions are as follows when sewing a clean finish.

a | Sew your pieces RIGHT sides together with c | Press the folded under side of your seam
1/2” (13mm) seam allowance. Press your seam allowance away from your stitch line, resulting in
allowances open. completely enclosing the raw edge of one side of
your seam allowance.

d | With your pieces open flat, sew along the

folded under side of your seam allowance with an
edgestitch. This will result in a stitch line on the
outside of your garment 1/4” (6mm) away from the
seam.

b | Fold one side of your seam allowance under

1/4” (6mm) and press. You are bringing the raw
edge of your seam allowance to just inside your
stitch line and folding it in place along the length
TOPSTITCHING THREAD
of your seam. If you wish to use topstitching thread to accentuate
HELPFUL HINT the stitch detailing, baste your folded under seam
It may be easiest to allowance in place first. Then, with topstitching thread,
do this step with your sew from the right side of your garment on top of your
pieces laying on top of basting stitch line. Remove your basting stitches.
each other and the seam
allowance along the e | Repeat steps a-d for the second side of your
side, rather than keeping seam allowance. This will result in 2 stitch lines
your piece flat with the on the outside of your garment, each 1/4” (6mm)
seam allowances open. away from either side of the seam.

Pleats & Thank You Top | Forest & Thread | 34