Knots & Their Uses

• a good knot holds but is easy to open if necessary

• there are different knots for different purposes and

all knots are not good for all purposes

• practice makes perfect

• a good knot needs not to be complicated, use the

simplest one good enough for the job

• there is a difference in situations where there is

constant pull on the rope or if it is sometimes loose
and sometimes taut

• sometimes it is important to be able to open the

knot, even if there is a heavy load on the line
 • learn the difference of the wrong way to do it and the
right way to do it, especially how the wrong way to
do it causes the knot to slip or makes it difficult to
open
Mark Sutton Competition
Each member of the patrol may be asked to understand and use one knot from
each of the Loops, Hitches and Bends sections and three knots from the Other
Section, in an appropriate situation:

‘Loops’ (1)
Alpine Butterfly, Bowline, Double Figure of Eight

Hitches (1)
Truckers Hitch, Tautline Hitch, Timber Hitch

Bends (1)
Zeppelin Bend, Sheet Bend, Carrick Bend

Other (3)
Clove Hitch, Reef Knot, Fisherman’s Knot, Fireman’s Chair, Round Turn and
Two Half Hitches, Sheet Bend, Sheep Shank

Alpine Butterfly
(also known as Lineman’s Loop)
If, as A.P. Herbert wrote in a poem, “the bowline is the king of
knots”, then the Alpine Butterfly, added Scouting’s ropework
 write John Sweet, must surely be the queen.

Good Points
• will take a load in any of the three directions (independently or together) •
easy to tie
• can be tied quickly

• can be tied without access to the ends of a rope

Bad Points
• not many!

Notes
• useful for making fixed loop footholds or handholds in a long rope • can also
be used to secure a bight in a line to a carabiner • could be used for hoisting
or lowering equipment where both ends of the line are attended to keep the
load away from the face of a wall

Bowline
(pronounced “boh-linn”)
The most useful and one of the simplest ways of putting a fixed
loop in the end of a rope. It is easy to tie and to untie, it never slips
nor jams and has a high breaking strength. It has been called the
'King of Knots'

Good Points
• easy to tie and untie

• never slips nor jams

• has a high breaking strength

 • it will not slip under load

• the more pressure applied, the stronger the knot

• easily untied

Bad Points
• cannot be tied or untied with a load on it

• though the Bowline isn’t generally bad, it isn’t secure enough for critical
applications, especially where the line will see a lot of jerking and/or where
stiff or slippery rope is used. If you tie a Bowline in polypropylene rope,
and give it a few jerks, you’ll quickly discover its lack of security.

Notes

• if you use this knot to carry an injured person, you must use a stop knot •
you can use it for tying two ropes of different sized together with one knot on
each line
• two bowlines can make an emergency bowswain's chair

Double
Figure
Eight
(also known as Figure Eight Loop)
This knot is favoured by climbers because its distinctive shape makes it easy to check.

Good Points
• easy to spot if tied incorrectly

• easily tied

• secure
Bad Points
• cannot be tied with a load on it

Notes
• This is a very useful knot for climbing (e.g. attaching your safety rope to
your harness) as you can see at a glance if the knot is tied correctly. • A
half hitch can be tied around the standing part to make the knot more
secure

Trucker’s Hitch
(also known as Waggoner’s
Hitch)
For lashing down loads this hitch is unrivalled.

Good Points
• acts as a lever

Bad Points
• only secure when under constant strain

• comes undone as soon as the strain is released

• can cause sever chafe on a rope if the knot is used repeatedly in the same
place on the rope.

Notes

• can also be used as an emergency tackle (with care)

• pull down on the working end to tighten the knot and secure with one or
two Half Hitches.
Tautline Hitch
(also known as Rolling
Hitch)
Where a lengthwise pull from a pole or static
line is needed, this old faithful takes some beating.

Good Points
• strain can be applied sideways to this knot in one direction • can
be tied around a pole/ring or for attaching a light line to a rope

Bad Points
• can only cope with strain in one direction

Notes

• the two diagonal riding turns must go on the side of the object from which
the pull will be applied

Timber Hitch
(a useful hitch to grip and pull)
Traditionally used for tying a length of rope around a pole or
bundle of logs, the more strain that is put on the hitch the tighter it
grips.

Good Points
• quick to tie

• never jams
 • easy to untie

Bad Points
• only secure when under load

Notes

• used together with one or more Half Hitches (Killick Hitch) it can be used
to drag or hoist a cylindrical object.

Zeppelin Bend
(also known as Rosendahl’s
Bend)
A close relative to this bend is the Hunter’s Bend or Rigger’s
Bend.

Good Points
• strong and secure

• can be used in anything from heavyweight cables to smallest of cords •

can be used to join lengths of slippery synthetic rope
• stable knot

• easy to untie

Bad Points
• working ends stick out at right angles to the standing parts

Notes
 • this is actually just one of a family of bends comprising two interlocked
overhand knots

The Hunter’s Bend is probably the equal of the Zeppelin bend

Sheet Bend
(also known as Weavers Knot)
The sheet bend is very similar to the square knot, granny knot, thief
knot, and particularly the bowline. In fact, the sheet bend can be tied
using the One Handed Twist Method which is also used to tie the
bowline.

Good Points
• very fast to tie

• when slipped, is one of the easiest bends to work with

• useful when joining two ropes of different diameters.

• it will not slip under load

• the more pressure applied, the stronger the knot

• easily untied

Bad Points
• it may jam

• hard to untie if wet and under strain (for instance in a towline) • the knot is
neither strong nor secure. It reduces the strength of lines by 55% and can
spill if subject to spasmodic jerking

Notes
• if the ropes are of quite different diameters (e.g. a very large and a small
rope together) then you will be better off tying a Double Sheet Bend. • if you
 have done the knot correctly the two ends should be on the same side of
the knot
• the running parts should be left long because there is some initial slip in
the knot when the knot is first brought under tension

Carrick Bend
(good for large ropes or cables)
The Carrick Bend is mainly used for joining large diameter ropes or
hawsers. It can also be formed into a decorative knot like a lanyard
knot or a mat.

Good Points
• can be used on heavy cable or large ropes

• can be allowed to tighten and collapse on itself when strain is taken on the
standing parts

Bad Points
• reduces strength of rope to about 65 %

Notes

• sometimes seen with more than two half hitches either to make it more
secure or to use up excess rope

Reef Knot
(also known as Square Knot)
The best known and most useful parcel knot. It should preferably only
be tied with the two ends of the same material, but should never be
used as a bend. It is the best knot for tying a triangular bandage.
WARNING: The reef knot should never be
used as a bend to join two ropes that will
be under load. The reef-knot is only useful
in simple applications.

Good Points
• easily tied

Bad Points
• can slip

• can come undone under movement

• will capsize or jam under load

Notes

• its relatives, the granny, the thief-knot and the what-knot all have their
purposes, but not as a trustful knot
it is strictly a binding knot, reliable only when pressed against something
else and tied in both ends of the same material so restrict its use to
bandages and all sorts of parcels.

Fireman’s Chair
(a good rescue knot)
In the event of a proper harness not being available
this knot can be used for light rescue.

Good Points
• quick to tie

• can be tied in the bight

Bad Points
• not to be used for very heavy loads

• dangerous unless the loops are locked off

Notes

• one loop, adjusted for size, fits beneath the subject’s armpits, with the
other loop around behind the knees
• one rescuer lowers the person with one long end while a second rescuer
pulls them away from the wall with the other rope

Fisherman’s Knot
(good quick bend)
Not to be confused with the Fisherman’s Bend (which is
actually a hitch!).

Good Points
• safe and reliable

• simple and effective

Bad Points
• like all knots will weaken the lines in which it is tied

• may not be able to untie it if you use anything but rope

Notes

• the ends can be taped down to prevent them working loose • the
short ends must be at least five times the diameter of the rope • a
double fisherman’s knot can be used for more slippery or smaller
diameter line

Clove Hitch
(general utility hitch)
The nearest there is to a general utility hitch. It is easy to tie
in a number of different ways and to untie. It has a wide
variety of uses but care should be taken not to misuse it: it is
so easy to use it when a more suitable hitch (e.g. a Rolling
Hitch etc.) would serve better.

Good Points
• quick and easy to tie
• can be tied in the bight

• can be tied one handed

Bad Points
• can slip in wet conditions or in slippery rope

• weak when a load is applied to it rapidly

• needs constant tension on both ends

• without extra support, it is untrustworthy in any situation, except as a

crossing knot

Notes

• if you have to use it, work it up properly; pull length-wise only at both ends
before you load the working end
• the standing end should be secured if it is going to be used as an 'anchor'
as it may work loose otherwise
 • if you have to use it, work it up properly; pull length-wise only at both ends
before you load the working end. It is better to use the Rolling Hitch
instead

Although often used to start and finish lashings it is far from

ideal for this task. Consider using another hitch instead or at
least secure the standing part of the Clove Hitch used

Round Turn and

Two Half Hitches
(good all round hitch)
This knot can be used to secure a rope in a variety of situations. It
can be placed under a lot of strain and is easy to untie.

Good Points
• it rarely jams!
• a good hitch in almost all circumstances

• easy to untie even after being subjected to a large

strain
• easy to tie even when the line is under tension

Bad Points
• not many!

• possible to work loose if subject to spasmodic motion

Notes

• sometimes seen with more than two half hitches either to make it more
secure or to use up excess rope
Sheepshank
The sheepshank is designed to shorten a rope (without cutting it!). It
can also be used to take up the slack in a rope.

Another very useful purpose it serves (that people often overlook) is

its ability to protect a weak or damaged section of the knot. Simply
ensure that the damaged section forms the middle line of the
sheepshank. The
strain will be taken at either end and very little (or no) strain will be
placed on the weakened part.

Good Points
• can protect a weak portion of the rope

• easy to tie

Bad Points
• can come undone if ends are not subject to constant
tension

Notes

• a damaged rope should always be replaced or retired from ‘active use’

and be used for knot tying practice only
• if both ends are available pass them through the ends to stop the
sheepshank from coming undone when not under tension

It’s knot a problem!

Choose the most suitable knot for each problem
from the following list
‘Loops’ • Sheet Bend
• Alpine Butterfly • Carrick Bend

• Bowline
• Double Figure of Eight Other
• Reef Knot
Hitches • Fisherman’s Knot
• Truckers Hitch • Fireman’s Chair
• Tautline Hitch • Round Turn and Two
• Timber Hitch Half Hitches

Bends • Sheet Bend

• Sheep Shank
• Zepplin Bend

Problem 1
You are using a rope to drag a heavy load
up a slope and wish to secure it to a pole at
the top of the slope

Problem 2
You want to use a knot to start a
square lashing on two poles
Problem 3
You have a rope with a damaged section in
the middle and wish to avoid putting strain
on the damaged section whilst still being
able to ‘pull’ on the rope

Problem 4
You have two lines that you wish to join
together. They will be placed under a good
deal of strain and may be jerked about
quite a bit

Problem 5
You need a knot that will tie a parcel.
The knot will be lying flat against the
parcel.

Problem 6
You have a rope with a great deal of slack
that needs to be taken up. The ends will
be under a constant tension.

Problem 7
You need a fixed loop to lift someone
from the bottom of a well in an
emergency

Problem 8
You have a roped off area around your
campsite and wish to add another few
upright poles to the middle of the rope. You
need to tie the existing rope around the
pole, you do not have access to the ends.

Problem 9
You need to tie a triangular bandage in
a sling around a persons arm

Problem 10
You need to heave a line across a river.
You decide to throw a light line first and
pull across a heavier line. You wish to join
a thin rope to a heavier, thicker rope.
Problem 11
You wish to tie up your boat to a mooring
post. The boat will be rocking up and
down on the water.

Problem 12
You need a fixed loop in the end of a rope
so that you can quickly throw it over a
towbar of a car.

Problem 13
You have a long rope that you want to
make into a simple ladder so you can
climb up and down it with ease. You need
some footholds and handholds.

Problem 14
You want to attach a smaller line to a
large diameter rope. The line will be
under strain in one direction only and you
don’t want it to slip along the large rope.
Problem 15
You want to attach a safety line to a
carabiner and harness for use in climbing.
You need a fixed loop that you can ensure
it is tied correctly, even in poor light or
poor weather.

Problem 16
You have a load of camping gear in a
trailer and a groundsheet thrown over the
top. You need to secure the load down so
it stays safely in the trailer during the trip
to camp.

Problem 17
You want to tie your guylines to a tent
peg. However you want to be able to
adjust the tension of the line with ease
as you think it may rain during the week.

Problem 18
You have managed to find a large log that
will be excellent for use on your campfire to
get some nice embers for teatime. You
need to drag the large heavy log back to
camp.

Problem 19
You have two huge, thick ropes that you
wish to join together.

Problem 20
You need to lower an injured friend down a
4 m wall with the help of your patrol. You
need a good rescue knot to lower him
safely and to keep him away from the wall.

Problem 21
Can you think of a problem that you
know you can solve with one of these
knots that has not already been
covered?

It’s knot a problem! – now

you know the answer!
Problem 1 – Round Turn and Two Half Hitches. If you can get the round
turn around the pole the friction will hold most of the load for you. You can
secure this by tying a clove hitch (two half hitches) around the rope. It’s the
friction that holds the line, the half hitches just stop it from coming undone.

Problem 2 – Most of you may say Clove Hitch. Yes, that is what you have
been taught but it is not the best solution. You would be better off using a Round
Turn and Two Half Hitches. A Clove Hitch is only secure if both ends are under
tension and at right angles to the ‘pole’. This means you need to secure the
standing end of the Clove Hitch by wrapping it around the working end as you
start your turns.

Problem 3 – Sheepshank. Make the damaged section the ‘middle’ of the

sheepshank and when the ends are loaded the middle section should not take
any undue strain. This is far from a perfect solution and should be considered
temporary at best. It should also not be used in critical situations or where
someone’s safety is at stake.

Problem 4 – You may say Sheet Bend. Yes, perhaps. A better solution
would be to tie two bowlines ‘inside each other’ so to speak. You make two
interlocking loops. Remember a Sheet Bend will come undone if subject to
jerking. You could also use a Carrick Bend or Fisherman’s Knot. Perhaps the
best solution would actually be a Zeppelin Bend.

Problem 5 – Reef Knot. As long as the knot lies against the parcel it
should be reasonably secure. You must not use a Reef Knot as a Bend though.

Problem 6 – Sheepshank. Ideal for taking up slack.

Problem 7 – Bowline. To be sure in this situation you must secure the
end by placing a half hitch around the bowline. (note you have to have a fixed
loop… perhaps the Fireman’s Chair doesn’t fit the qualification here although it
is more suitable for that type of use)

Problem 8 – Clove Hitch. You can tie this without having access to the
ends of the rope. As long as both ends are being pulled this should be secure.
Problem 9 – Reef Knot. As long as the knot lies against the shoulder it
should be reasonably secure. You must not use a Reef Knot as a Bend though.

Problem 10 – Sheet Bend. A Sheet Bend can be useful in joining lines of

different diameters. If in doubt about security use a Double Sheet Bend.
Although other bends may still be used if the ropes are not hugely different in
diameter (Zeppelin or Carrick Bend)

Problem 11 – Round Turn and Two Half Hitches. Generally useful as a

hitch this should hold against the spasmodic motion. Do more than two Half
Hitches if you have the line spare.

Problem 12 – Bowline. Ideal for making a fixed loop. Care should be

taken if it is going to be subject to great strain or if it is critical however. There
are better and more secure loops.

Problem 13 – Alpine Butterfly. This can be used at regular intervals to

make secure loops for foot and handholds. Practice making the loops the right
size and at the right spacing.

Problem 14 – Tautline Hitch. Very useful for putting up with strain in one
direction. The rope will not slip along the larger line.
Problem 15 – Double Figure Eight. This is a nice loop for this purpose as
even a beginner can learn to tie it quickly and you can tell at a glance if it has
been tied correctly.

Problem 16 – Trucker’s Hitch. Perfect for tying down loads. Acts as a

lever so you can put a lot of tension into the rope when using secured points as
anchors.

Problem 17 – Tautline Hitch. If looped around the peg and tied on its self
it can be adjusted up and down the line to change the tension (it will put up with
strain in one direction keeping the line tight but may be slid down by hand to
loosen the knot)
Problem 18 – Timber Hitch. Tied around the log and then using one or
two Half Hitches further down the log you can drag the log while keeping it in
line behind you (together these are known as a Killick Hitch)

Problem 19 – Carrick Bend. Ideal for large diameter ropes or cables.

Problem 20 – Fireman’s Chair. This is better than a bowline. You can

support the back (under the arms) and the legs (under the knees). More
importantly the other line can be used to pull the injured person away from the
wall or other hazards.