Vult Vorg Build Guide
Thank you very much for supporting the Vult project.
Vorg is an analog lter which I designed based on the MS-20 lter. Among all the lters I have
built, Vorg is my favourite analog lter. For that reason it is the only lter that I sell in the store (at
least for now).
Assembling this module is not complicated. But even if you are an experienced builder, we
recommend you to read and follow this guide.
The build is divided in two sections:
- Assembling the main board
- Assembling the control board
This guide is accompanied by an Interactive BOM (vorg.html). This web page will help you locate
the positions of all the components in the main board. The traditional BOM includes the list of all
necessary components and, when possible, the link to buy them.
Mouser BOM: https://www.mouser.bg/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=805f3472e4
I hope you enjoy the module, and if you like it, share the Vult love with friends and enemies.
Leonardo Laguna Ruiz
Disclaimer
By purchasing a DIY kit or PCBs you are aware that you are responsible for the outcome of your
build. Before starting, verify that none of the parts have been damaged during the transport.
If your build fails, we can provide a limited support and repair service.
We want you to succeed. For that reason we tried to make this guide as detailed as possible.
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Assembling the main board
For the main board, we provide an Interactive BOM that will help you place all the components.
The interactive BOM can be found in the zip le containing all the build information (vorg.html).
The speci c steps may vary depending on the option you purchased. Please read the whole build
guide and identify the steps that do or do not apply to your case.
TRANSISTOR PAIR
If your board has the transistor pair soldered you can skip this step.
There are two options for the transistor pair. We
recommend to use the BCM857DS,115 (surface
mount) transistor pair Q1. Notice that the
transistor pair has a small dot to designate pin 1.
A similar dot is marked in the silkscreen. Make
sure they are aligned.
If the transistor pair is not soldered and you do not
feel comfortable soldering this small part, you can
use a pair of matched BC556 (Q2 and Q3). You
can nd a good guide on how to match transistors
here.
NOTE: Do not install both options at the same
time.
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RESISTORS AND DIODES
Placing the resistors is straightforward. Use the
interactive BOM to nd the locations of each
resistor.
Remember that the diodes have polarity. The
silkscreen of the board marks the direction of the
diodes.
PROGRAMMING THE ATTINY85
If you received the ATTiny85 from us, you can skip
this step because we ship them pre-programmed.
If you sourced the ATTiny by yourself then you
need to program it. In order to ash the ATTiny you need a programmer for it. If you don’t have
one, you can use an Arduino board to ash the program. Check the following link for the
instructions: https://www.instructables.com/Program-an-ATtiny-with-Arduino/
You can nd the source code here: https://github.com/vult-dsp/VorgToggle
Once you have ashed the program you can solder all the IC sockets.
INTEGRATED CIRCUITS
We recommend you to use sockets for all ICs
because it can make the debugging of problems in
your build much easier.
The ICs have a notch marking the direction. You
can nd the corresponding marking in the
silkscreen. In this board, all the ICs point up.
Be careful of not bending the IC leads when
inserting the into the socket.
GREEN LEDS
The LEDs have polarity so they must be placed in
the correct direction. The LEDs have a at side
which corresponds to the short lead. The
silkscreen has a marking that shows where the at
side should be pointing. You can see the markings
highlighted in the following picture.
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CAPACITORS
The ceramic capacitors (100nF, 4.7nF and 1nF) are
not polarized so you can place them in any
direction.
On the other hand, the electrolytic capacitors
(47uF and 10uF) have polarity. In the silkscreen
you can nd the markings for the negative pin.
Make sure you are placing them correctly
otherwise capacitors could explode.
POWER REGULATOR
The direction of the power regulator is marked on
the silkscreen. Make sure you have placed it in the
correct position.
POWER CONNECTOR
The module has reverse polarity protection but we
recommend you to use a shrouded connector for
the power so you avoid connecting it backwards.
The silkscreen marks the direction of the shrouded
connector. If you do not use one, the silkscreen
marks where the red stripe of your power cable
should point to.
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CONNECTORS
To nalise the main board you need to solder the
board connectors. These are mounted on the
back of the board.
Be careful of not touching the other components
with your soldering iron. Some of the pads can
be hard to solder because they are attached to a
ground plane. With a bit of patience, ux and
heat these can be soldered.
CLEANUP AND CHECKING
At this point you can clean the ux residuals on
the board (if necessary).
Check if there are any visible solder point that could cause a short circuit. Check as well that there
are no solder points needing a bit more tin.
Using a multimeter, check the ±12V points in the connector just to make sure that there are no
short-circuits. In my case, when measuring the rails, my multimeter displays a resistance over 1 M
ohm.
Assembling the control board
POTENTIOMETERS
Start by placing the potentiometers as shown on
the picture. Before soldering them, make sure that
they are properly placed. When pressing them,
push them from the body, not from the shaft
because you could break the plastic knobs.
NOTE: do not solder the side terminals of the
potentiometers yet. Just solder the main three
terminals. This will make easier to x any mistakes
once you mount the panel.
Place the push button and solder it. Just make sure
it is mounted correctly.
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PIN STRIPS
Before placing the jacks, it is better to solder the
pin strips. These are soldered in the bottom of the
board. Start soldering one pin and then make sure
it is properly aligned, otherwise they will not
connect to the headers.
JACKS
Place the jacks but do not solder them yet. Once
the jacks are mounted, put the panel and screw the
nut of the potentiometer to keep the panel in place.
Make sure that the jacks are properly mounted and
t nicely in the panel holes.
Remove the panel and place the cap of the push
button.
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RED LEDS
The red LEDs, similarly to the green one, have a at
side. The at side is marked in the silkscreen. Once
you insert them, they should look like the image.
Place back the panel and put the LEDs through the
panel holes. Once they are going through the
panel, solder the terminals.
At this point you can solder the potentiometer
terminals and clean the board if necessary. Avoid
pouring alcohol or other solvents on top of the
potentiometers because they may lose the grip.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
You can put back the panel and screw the nuts of
the jacks and potentiometers.
Connect the two boards together and put the knob
on the potentiometer.
At this point, your module should be ready to use.
Take all the necessary precautions when powering
your module for the rst time.
Enjoy your module and let us know how the build
went!
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