The Journal of The Textile Institute

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Effect of weave structures and thread densities

on the cover factor and mechanical properties of
cotton spandex woven fabrics

Shariful Islam & Aloke Kumar Mozumder

To cite this article: Shariful Islam & Aloke Kumar Mozumder (18 Apr 2023): Effect
of weave structures and thread densities on the cover factor and mechanical
properties of cotton spandex woven fabrics, The Journal of The Textile Institute, DOI:
10.1080/00405000.2023.2201106

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Published online: 18 Apr 2023.

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THE JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE
https://doi.org/10.1080/00405000.2023.2201106

RESEARCH ARTICLE

Effect of weave structures and thread densities on the cover factor and
mechanical properties of cotton spandex woven fabrics
Shariful Islam and Aloke Kumar Mozumder
Department of Mechanical Engineering, Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology (BUET), Dhaka, Bangladesh

ABSTRACT ARTICLE HISTORY

The aim of this article is to investigate the effect of weave structures and thread densities on the Received 29 September 2022
cover factor and mechanical properties of cotton spandex woven fabrics. 98% cotton and 2% spandex Accepted 16 January 2023
poplin, twill, and sateen woven fabrics of different thread densities were used in this research for
KEYWORDS
investigation. In this investigation, total samples of 15 types with miscellaneous textures such as plain
Weave factor; cover factor;
(1/1), twill (1/4), and 7 ends sateen (1/6) were used. Yarns were assessed using microscope with its fabric geometry; yarn
morphological views and outer shape views to confirm the existence of cotton fibers. In the micro- morphology; stretching
scopic observations, the outer shape of cotton yarn was seen with full of hairy fibers at the slope behavior; mechanical
which guaranteed the existence of cotton content in these cellulosic fabrics. The stretching behaviors properties
such as stretch, growth and recovery were measured in agreement with the test method provided by
ASTM D3107 Standard along with apposite equations as mentioned underneath the paper. Using
weave coefficient, the values of cover factors were measured with suitable equations. The fabrics of
plain weave exposed the highest values of cover factors due to having higher interlacement points
than any other weave structures conducted in this research. The fabrics of sateen weave exposed
excellent mechanical properties with its stretch, growth and recovery values due to having fewer bind-
ing points in its repeat size, than any other weave structures carried out in this research. This research
is practice based and it opens possible ways for the scholars to further study in this field.

1. Introduction These synthetic yarns maybe composed of nylon, polyester

or others (Kesimci et al., 2023). The weave density constant
There is a great importance of this research in the field of
can be made up of equation where d expresses yarn diam-
textile and clothing industries since the task of controlling
eter, WF expresses weave cover factor, Dw expresses warp
the mechanical properties of fabrics in contrast to the weave
density and Df expresses weft density.
structure and thread density is really challenging. Different

2
scholars worked related to this experiment at different times dw þ df
where literature review exposed different outcomes. Some of WC ¼  Dw  Df  WF1 (1)
25:4
which were similar and some of them were widely contro-
versial. Due to the range of variables involved if any param- Another scholar proposed an equation that is appropriate
eters like weave structure and thread densities were to the clothes of different types with different threads. In
changed, then the mechanical properties of fabrics like this Equation 2, a expresses the yarn correction factor and b
stretch, growth and recovery were also changed. It is a com- expresses the fabric correction factor (Islam, 2021). Here, C
mon phenomenon that, if the thread densities are increased represents the fabric cover factor, Dw expresses the warp
then the recovery forces should be increased in terms of density, and Df expresses the weft density.
cotton spandex woven fabrics, which is also revealed from  2
C ¼ dw þ df  Dw  Df  b (2)
the investigation. In other terms, if the thread densities were
increased then the stretch and growth were also decreased. For measuring the fabric density below equation is devel-
Thread densities were also influential on the cover factor of oped (Iftikhar et al., 2021). In this equation, D expresses the
fabrics which was also noticed throughout the investigations. fabric density, K expresses the density coefficient, Nm
Weave structure has a significant impact on the recovery expresses the metric yarn count, Cf expresses the weave coef-
forces which is also revealed from the investigation. ficient, and then, the Equation 3 can be developed as below:
In woven industries cover factor plays a substantial role. pffiffiffiffiffiffi
D ¼ K  NeCf (3)
Weave factor is directly related to cover factor and they are
dependent on one another. The weave factor for synthetic The value of D can be further found out as below
filament yarns can be measured with below Equation 1. Equation 4, where Ne is the English Cotton Count, Kc is

CONTACT Shariful Islam [email protected] Department of Mechanical Engineering, Bangladesh University of Engineering and Technology (BUET),
Dhaka 1000, Bangladesh.
ß 2023 The Textile Institute
2 S. ISLAM AND A. K. MOZUMDER

the yarn density coefficient of the cotton content (Islam number of yarns in the weave reprise (Behera et al., 2020).
et al., 2021). For calculation of fabric thickness, it is potential to use the
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi geometric model defined on the base of weave structure and
D ¼ Kc  0:0254  Ne  1:694  Cf (4) yarn types (Islam, 2019). In this process, the main effect is
Yarn diameter can be obtained from below Equation 5 applied by the yarn diameter and weft and warp interlace-
where, d is the yarn diameter, dw is the warp density, df is ment. Thickness is measured with below Equation 12, where
the weft density, a expresses the yarn correlation factor and d0 is the warp diameter, du is the weft diameter, e1 is the
b expresses the fabric correlation factor (Islam et al., 2021). warp waviness, fm is the interlacing coefficient, C is the
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi compression in fabric (Kostajn
sek et al., 2019).
a a dtex
d ¼ dw  df pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi ¼ (5) Thickness ðmmÞ
Nm 100

  
d0 þdu d0 þdu
This equation can be further converted as below ¼ ðd0 þdu Þþ e1  ð
 1e1Þ f m b
2 2
Equation 6, where D is the fabric density, K is the density
coefficient, Nm is the metric yarn count, and Cf is the (12)
weave coefficient (Abel et al., 2022). The Roughness of fabric is a micro-geometry that is
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi defined as the amount of bumpiness of the two surfaces of
D ¼ K  Nm  Cf (6) fabrics with relatively small expanses (Islam et al., 2019). It
Fabric’s cover factor has a relationship with fabric’s float- has some effects on fabric such as hand feel and some other
ing factor. In this Equation 7, fC represents fabrics cover physical characteristics (Islam et al., 2019). Mainly, it
factor, fF represents fabrics floating factor, and fJ represents depends on yarn shape, roundness, count, irregularity, dens-
fabrics jumping factor (Islam et al., 2021). ity, hairiness, interlacement etc. roundness can be measured
with below Equation 13, where R expresses the roughness,
R
Cf ¼  fc  ff  fj (7) D0 expresses the warp sett, Du expresses the weft sett, P
R þ Cr expresses the pore size, and CV expresses the yarn irregular-
Combining all these equations, below Equation 8 can be ity (Bedez Ute, 2019).
further developed. Here, considering Dw and Df as constant "P P P #
(Wang & Xiao, 2020), WC in equation is altered to K and repeat P1 repeat P2 repeat Pn
R ðlmÞ ¼ RP1 þ RP2 þ...þ RPn
on the contrary, K is adapted to WC, then the equation can n0 nu n0 nu n0 nu
be developed as 100 100
 D0 þDu  103

 100CV
WC 25:4 2 2
Dw  Df ¼  ¼ Constant (8) (13)
WF dW þ dF
The density of yarn is got from below Equation 9 where q The average float length of the clothes can be measured
f expresses the fiber density; d expresses the yarn diameter with below Equation 14, where F expresses the float length,
and Den expresses the yarn count in the denier (Islam et al., R expresses the repeat size, and i express the intersection
(Asayesh et al., 2018).
2020). The linear density of yarn can be developed with yarn
PR
diameter, weave factors, and some other parameters. F
i i
  F¼ (14)
g pd2 R
Den ¼ qf 3
 V ðcm3 Þ ¼ qf   9  105
cm 4 The density of thread can be measured with below
pd2 Equation 15, where t expresses the highest thread density, f
Den ¼ qf   9  105 (9) is the number of floats, and N is the yarn count (Islam
4
et al., 2018).
Weave density coefficient can be further developed as pffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
below Equation 10 where WF resembles weave factor t ¼ f m KN (15)
(Messiry & El-Tarfawy, 2020). The value of weave factor
The tenses factor C of the clothes can be measured with
can be developed from below equation:
below Equation 16 where, R expresses the repeat size, N

2
R þ Cr expresses the number of free fields, and N is the yarn count
WF ¼ (10) (Islam & Alam, 2018).
2R
h P i
In below Equation 11, R represents the number of yarn 6R1 R2  2Nf þ 6i¼1Ki Nfi
in 1 repeat and Cr represents the number of points in inter- C¼ (16)
lacing area (Islam et al., 2020). 6R1 R2

2 The tightness factor of clothes can be measured with
dw þ dF
WC ¼ Dw Df  WF (11) below Equation 17 when yarn diameter, float length, and
25:4 warp/weft sett are available (Hossain et al., 2016). Here, T is
The form of the requisite wave and elementary geometry the tightness factor, d is the yarn diameter, F is the float
of the binding cell deviates according to the aspect and length, and S is the warp and weft sett.
 THE JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE 3


S pðF  1Þ (Kim, 2010). The below Equation 25 was applied to explain
TS ¼ d þ2 (17) the force leading to yarn bending.
F 4
sffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi p
The Equation 18 can be further developed as below with ð2
P 0 L0 2 du
equal to P. Here, C is the tenses factor. ¼ pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
vffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi H0 1  k2 :sin2 u
u uA
1 u 3R R
h 1 2 P6 i sffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
P ¼ pffiffiffiffi ¼ t (18)  
C 3R1 R2  2NF þ i¼1KNfi P 0 L0 2 p
¼ F , k  FðuA, K Þ (25)
H0 2
The value of L and K is obtained from below Equation 19.
qffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi Here, L0 is the end length in fabric, uA is the elliptic bounty
L ¼ ðK1  K1l Þ2  ðK2  K2l Þ2 (19) at socket ‘ff’, k is the elliptic modulus, and 0 is the end bend-
ing rigidity. This Equation 26 can further be reshaped as
Here, the value of K can be obtained from below    
p p
Equation 20. F , k  FðuA, K Þ ¼ DF , uA, k (26)
2 2
d
K¼F pd ð
(20) Yarn bending equation can further be expanded as
S  4 F  1Þ
Equation 27.
Newton’s tightness factor can be measured from below qffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
Equation 21, where S1 expresses the warp sett, S2 expresses P0 ¼ Fcp2 þ N 2 (27)
the weft sett, T1 is the warp linear density, T2 is the weft
Yarn length has a relationship with its bending stiffness
linear density, Tavg is the average yarn linear density, q
that expressed with below Equation 28.
expresses the fiber density, and p1 expresses the distance  
between threads (Grechukhin & Seliverstov, 2014). h0 p
¼ E , k  EðuA, kÞ
sffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi pffiffiffiffiffiffi 2l0 2
rffiffiffiffiffi p1ffiffiffiffiffiffi
2 T T
3 p1ffiffiffiffiffiffi
2
   
12 1 Tavg 1þ23 T1 T2 1þ23 T1 T2 p p
;¼    S2  S1 (21) E , k  EðuA, kÞ ¼ DE , uA, k (28)
p P q 2 2
The weave factor in the interlacement is measured with The height of yarn bend in fabric’s weave can further be
below Equation 22, where Smax is the maximum yarn dens- explained with below Equation 29, where e is the bending
ity, S is the warp density, and T1 and T2 are the warp and stiffness, l0 is the space between yarn, and ly is the yarns
weft linear densities (Mishra, 2013). curved length in interlacement (Song et al., 2010).
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
Sq max Py ¼ Fy2 þ N 2
Pexp ¼
Sqmax Plain sffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi p
ð2
pffiffiffiT1 Py ly 2 du
2
pffiffiffi
1 3
p ffiffiffi
T2 ¼ qffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi (29)
T1 T1 Hy  2 :sin2 u
1þ2
S2 max  S1
3 T2
1þ2
3 T2
uAy
1 ky ð Þ
Pexp ¼ pffiffiffi
T1
2
p1 ffiffiffi 3
pT2ffiffiffi The cover factor of the polyester yarn in direct system
T T
1þ2 1 1þ2 1
can be calculated with respect to its warp and weft cover
 S1
3 T2 3 T2
S2 max plain plain factors in following way where T is yarn count in Tex, E is
pffiffiffi
2 T1
thread per centimeter (Belal, 2009). The Equation 30 can be
  p
1 ffiffiffi   3 pT2ffiffiffi
S2 max T
1þ23 1 S1 max 1þ23
T 1 further developed as below.
Pexp ¼ T2
 T2
(22) pffiffiffiffi
S2 max plain S1 plain d E T k
¼ pffiffiffiffiffiffi ¼ pffiffiffiffiffiffi (30)
Interlacement angle and floats angle can be measured p 280:2 uq 28:02 uq
with below Equation 23, where I expresses the interlacement pffiffiffiffi
K can be valued as K ¼ E T  101 where k is the fab-
angle, F expresses the float angle and R expresses the repeat
ric cover.
size (Behera et al., 2012). For the linear density, the diameter of thread in direct
ðiwp þ iwf Þ ðfwp þ fwf Þ system can be measured in below Equation 31 where yarn
I¼ , and F ¼ (23) count is measured in tex.
R1 R2 R1 R2
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
The diameter of pores can be measured with below Equation Tex
d¼ pffiffiffiffiffiffi (31)
24, where d is the pore diameter and D is sets of warp and weft. 280:2 uq

   
1 1 1 Combining these two, the equation can further be
dp ¼  d0 þ  du (24)
2 D0 Du expanded as below Equation 32.
Various mathematical models were developed to forecast a d
¼ qffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi (32)
fabric’s structural parameters and the parameters of fabrics p ep 1 þ 4 1  1  28:02pffiffiffiffiffiffi
uq
p e
in different loom zones to suitably occupy the cover factor
4 S. ISLAM AND A. K. MOZUMDER

Putting the value of e ¼ ba in the above equation, it can 2. Materials and methods
further be expanded as Equation 33.
2.1. Materials used
a k
¼ qffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi (33)
p e 1 þ 4 1  1  28:02pffiffiffiffiffiffi
Plain, twill and satin weave fabrics of different categories
p e uq were used in this research for investigation with same com-
position of cotton and spandex fibers as shown in Figure 1.
The equation is further expanded as Equation 34. These fabrics exposed varieties of constructions for the exact
pffiffiffiffi
a d E T k assessment of cover factors on their mechanical and elastic
¼ ¼ pffiffiffiffiffiffi ¼ pffiffiffiffiffiffi (34) characteristics. These fabrics were individually prepared in
p ep 280:2 e uq 28:02 uq
the Fabric Research and Development (R&D) Department
for experimentation purposes.
Table 1 shows that these fabrics have different construc-
1.1. Weave factor
tions in each category. Here, warp yarn count is 40 Ne, weft
Weave factor is a value that measures the proportion in yarn count is (40 þ 40D) Ne that means, spandex fiber of 40D
between the total number of yarns in a repeat in contradic- is wrapped through the core of 40Ne weft yarn. Ends per
tion to the number of intersections it belongs. If we assume, Inch (EPI) measurement varies from 180 to 220 and Picks per
the total number of yarns in a repeat is E and the number Inch (PPI) measurement varies from 80 to 120 with the weave
of intersections in a repeat is I, then the equation for weave structures of plain (one up and one down interlacement
factor M can be developed as below Equation 35. ration), twill (one up and four down interlacement ration),
and sateen (7 ends with one up and six down interlacement
E rations with a move number value of 3).
M¼ (35)
I
The interlacing configurations of ends and picks may
2.2. Structural diagram of fabrics
be dissimilar. In that times, weave factor is intended
individually with respect to its warp and weft number. For Figure 2 shows that plain (11) weave contains regular interlace-
a plain (11) weave fabric, the total number of yarns in a ment ration of 1 up and 1 down scheme. Twill weave (14) con-
repeat is (1 þ 1) or 2 and the number of intersections in a tains the interlacement ration of 1 up and 4 down where, 1
repeat is (1 þ 1) or 2. Then, the weave factor is calculated as warp yarn up with 4 warp yarn down or 4 weft yarn up with
below: 1 weft yarn down. Actually, it is a weft faced twill weave
where the maximum number of weft yarns will be visible
2
M¼ ¼1 from the face side of a fabric. 7 ends sateen (16) has an inter-
2 lacement ratio with 3 move number values. Move number is
For a 21 twill weave fabric, the total number of yarns the distance between two adjacent interlacement points.
in a repeat is (2 þ 1) or 3 and the number of intersections Sateen is a weft face design where the maximum number of
in a repeat is 2. Then, the weave factor is calculated as weft yarns will be visible from the face side of fabric. In a
below: repeat of 7 ends sateen (16) there are total 7 interlacing point.
These interacting points express the warp yarn. Actually, sat-
3
M¼ ¼ 1:5 een weave structures have fewer binding points and more
2
float lengths compared to plain and twill weave structures.
For a 31 twill weave fabric, the total number of yarns
in a repeat is (3 þ 1) or 4 and the number of intersections
in a repeat is 3. Then, the weave factor is calculated as 2.3. Microscopic observation to confirm cotton fiber
below: existence

4 Microscopic evaluation was done to confirm the existence of

M¼ ¼ 1:33 cotton fibers in these sample fabrics applied for the experi-
3
ments. Yarns were unpluged from fabrics and microscopic
In case, the total number of warp and weft yarns are dif- views were taken to check the appearance of cotton yarns
ferent and their interlacement are also different, then weave using an optical microscope where the cotton fibers were seen
factor is calculated as below Equations 36 and 37. as twisted tapes or tubes like coils. These ribbon-like tapes
E1 were almost seen transparent. In the cell wall of cotton, they
M1 ¼ (36) have primary and secondary cell walls those consist of spiral
I2
E2 cellulose surrounded by the helical shapes. Figure 3 shows
M2 ¼ (37) the morphological view of cotton fibers, Figure 4 shows the
I1
microscopic view of yarn’s diameter and Figure 5 shows the
Here, E1 is the number of yarns in warp way, E2 is the microscopic view of yarn’s twist angle of 40Ne single cotton
number of yarns in the weft way, I1 is the number of inter- yarn with the outer shape with full of hairy fibers at the slope
sections in warp way, and I2 is the number of intersections which confirms the existence of cotton fibers/yarns in these
in the weft way. cellulosic fabrics. The measurement of yarn’s diameter (mm)
 THE JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE 5

Figure 1. 98% cotton 2% Spandex plain, twill and sateen fabrics.

Table 1. Cotton spandex woven fabrics used in this research.

S. No. Composition & type Construction Weave structure Width (00 )
40ð40þ40DÞ 
Type A 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Poplin 18080 Plain 11 60
40ð40þ40DÞ 
Type B 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Poplin 19090 Plain 11 60
40ð40þ40DÞ 
Type C 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Poplin 200100 Plain 11 60
40ð40þ40DÞ 
Type D 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Poplin 210110 Plain 11 60
40ð40þ40DÞ 
Type E 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Poplin 220120 Plain 11 60
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type F 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Twill 18080 Twill 4 60
40ð40þ40DÞ 
Type G 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Twill 19090 Twill 14 60
40ð40þ40DÞ 
Type H 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Twill 200100 Twill 14 60
40ð40þ40DÞ 
Type I 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Twill 210110 Twill 14 60
40ð40þ40DÞ 
Type J 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Twill 220120 Twill 14 60
40ð40þ40DÞ 
Type K 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Sateen 18080 7 Ends Sateen 16 60
40ð40þ40DÞ 
Type L 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Sateen 19090 7 Ends Sateen 16 60
40ð40þ40DÞ 
Type M 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Sateen 200100 7 Ends Sateen 16 60
40ð40þ40DÞ 
Type N 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Sateen 210110 7 Ends Sateen 16 60
40ð40þ40DÞ 
Type O 98% Cotton 2% Spandex Sateen 220120 7 Ends Sateen 16 60

Figure 2. Structural diagram of plain, twill, and sateen weave.

6 S. ISLAM AND A. K. MOZUMDER

and the measurement of yarn’s twist angles of 40Ne (single)

cotton count is shown in these figures.

2.4. Cover factor measuring method

Cover factor states the magnitude to which the part of a cloth is
enclosed by the yarns. It is the proportion of the space sur-
rounded by the yarns to the entire region of fabric. Cover factor
also refers to the firmness, rigidity or compactness of fabric. It
is known that the plain weave has the weave factor of 0.98, the
twill weave has the weave factor of 0.78 and the satin weave has
the weave factor of 0.68. These weave factors are almost applied
Figure 3. Morphological views of the cotton through microscope. in factories. Cover factor is measured with below Equation 38.

Figure 4. Microscopic view of Yarn’s diameter (40 Ne Cotton).

Figure 5. Microscopic view of Yarn’s twist angle (40 Ne Cotton).

 THE JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE 7

Table 2. Measurement of cover factor of all samples.

S. No. Construction Weave Warp cover factor Weft cover factor Total cover factor
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type A 18080 Plain 1 28.46 12.65 27.69
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type B 19090 Plain 1 30.04 14.23 28.42
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type C 200100 Plain 1 31.62 15.81 28.99
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type D 210110 Plain 1 33.20 17.39 29.37
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type E 220120 Plain 1 34.79 18.97 29.58
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type F 18080 Twill 4 28.46 12.65 22.04
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type G 19090 Twill 4 30.04 14.23 22.62
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type H 200100 Twill 4 31.62 15.81 23.07
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type I 210110 Twill 4 33.20 17.39 23.38
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type J 220120 Twill 4 34.79 18.97 23.55
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type K 18080 7 Ends Sateen 6 28.46 12.65 19.21
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type L 19090 7 Ends Sateen 6 30.04 14.23 19.72
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type M 200100 7 Ends Sateen 6 31.62 15.81 20.11
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type N 210110 7 Ends Sateen 6 33.20 17.39 20.38
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type O 220120 7 Ends Sateen 6 34.79 18.97 20.53

Fabric cover factor 2.6. Instrument used

2( !)
  For measuring the stretch, growth and recovery of core
EPI PPI
¼4 pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi þ pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi spandex woven fabrics, a stretch recovery tester ‘TESTEX
warp count weft count
TF154’ was used in this research for investigation.
2 33
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
EPI ffi  pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
PPI ffi
6 warp count weft count 77
64
77  weave Factor
55
28 3. The experimentation
3.1. Measurement of cover factor
(38)
Cover factor was measured for the nomenclature of cotton
2.5. Mechanical properties measuring method spandex woven fabrics shown in Table 1 following Equation 38.
Cover factor indicates the level to which the part of a cloth
The mechanical properties of fabrics for measuring stretch-
is concealed by the threads. Thread count indicates the
ability are comprised of three parameters like stretch,
sum of the total number of yarns in warp and weft direc-
growth and recovery. Stretch is the characteristics of elasti-
tion namely ends per inch and picks per inch. The value of
city or springiness of cotton spandex woven fabrics. When
cover factor upsurges with the increased number of thread
fabric is pulled off in weft way, it will act like spring which
count and vice versa. Moreover, the value of cover factor
is called stretch. Spandex fabrics have the competence to
declines with the application of finer cotton count and vice
come back to its prior position once the load has been with-
versa. Cover factor is the proportion of the area covered by
drawn that is called recovery. If the fabric does not come
the yarns to the total area of fabric. Using Equation 38, the
back to its original position even after the load has been
value of cover factor was measured and they were posi-
released, then that increased length is termed as growth. In
tioned in Table 2.
this research, the experiments of stretch, growth and recov-
ery were tested following ATM D3107 Standard with below
Equations 39–41.
3.1.1. Cover factor measurement of sample Type A (plain
Loaded Length Initial Length weave)
Stretch% ¼  100 (39)
Initial Length Among the nomenclature shown in Table 1, fabric Type A
Length After Relaxation  Initial Length indicates the construction of 40ð40þ40DÞ : In this segment,
Growth% ¼  100 18080
Initial Length the warp yarn count is 40 Ne and weft yarn count is
(40) (40 þ 40D) Ne, that means the spandex of 40 Denier is
Stretched Length Length After Relaxation wrapped with the core of 40Ne weft yarn. Ends per inch
Recovery% ¼ measurement are 180 and Picks per inch measurement is
Stretched Length  Original Length
80. Considering weave factor for plain weave 0.98, the cover
 100 factor of the nomenclature was measured with Equation 38
(41) as shown below.
8 S. ISLAM AND A. K. MOZUMDER

2( !) "    
 180   80 #

 
4 EPI PPI 180 80 6:325  6:325
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi þ p ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi þ  0:78
warp count weft count 6:325 6:325 28



2 33 f28:46 12:65g
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
EPI ffi  pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
PPI ffi f28:46þ 12:65g 0:78
6 warp count weft count 77


28
6
4
77  weave Factor
55 360:019
28 41:11 0:78
28
2 "n 3
o# ½41:11 ½12:86 0:78
    pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
180 ffi
 pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
80
4 180 80 40 Ne 40 Ne 5 ½41:1112:86 0:78
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi þ pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi 
40 Ne 40 Ne 28
28:25 0:78
2  0:98
"n o #3 22:035
    ffiffiffiffiffiffi  p80ffiffiffiffi
p180
4 180 80 40 40 5 Hence, the cover factor for fabric F is 22:035
pffiffiffiffiffi þ pffiffiffiffiffi   0:98
40 40 28 Following same procedure, calculations for fabric G, H, I
"    
 180   80  # and J were done with Equation 38 as specified above and
180 80  the values were shown in Table 2.
þ  6:325 6:325
 0:98
6:325 6:325 28



f28:46  12:65g 3.1.3. Cover factor measurement of sample Type K (sateen
f28:46 þ 12:65g   0:98
28 weave)



360:019 Among the nomenclature shown in Table 1, fabric K
41:11  0:98
28 shows the construction of 40ð40þ40DÞ 18080 : Here, the warp
½41:11  ½12:86 0:98 yarn count is 40 Ne and weft yarn count is
½41:11  12:86  0:98 (40 þ 40D) Ne that means the spandex of 40 Denier is
wrapped with the core of 40 Ne weft yarn. End per inch
28:25 0:98 measurement is 180 and Picks per inch measurement is
27:685 80. Considering weave factor for sateen weave 0.68, the
Hence, the cover factor for fabric A is 27:685 cover factor of the nomenclature was measured with
Following same procedure, calculation for fabric B, C, D Equation 38 as shown below.
and E were done with Equation 38 as specified above and 2( !)
 
the values were shown in Table 2. 4 EPI PPI
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi þ pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
warp count weft count
3.1.2. Cover factor measurement of sample Type F (twill 2 33
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
EPI ffi  pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
PPI ffi
weave) 6 warp count weft count 77
Among the nomenclature shown in Table 1, fabric F shows 6 4
77  weave Factor
55
40ð40þ40DÞ 28
the construction of 18080 : Here, the warp yarn count is
40Ne and weft yarn count is (40 þ 40D) Ne, that means the 2
"n o #3
spandex of 40 Denier is wrapped with the core of 40Ne weft     pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
180 ffi
 pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
80
yarn. Ends per inch measurement are 180 and Picks per 4 pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi 180 80
þ pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi 
40 Ne 40 Ne 5
inch measurement is 80. Considering weave factor for twill 40 Ne 40 Ne 28
weave 0.78, the cover factor of the nomenclature was meas- 0:68
ured with Equation 38 as shown below. 2
2( "n o#3
  !)     ffiffiffiffiffiffi  p80ffiffiffiffi
p180
4 EPI PPI 4 180 80 40 40 5
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi þ pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi pffiffiffiffiffi þ pffiffiffiffiffi  0:68
warp count weft count 40 40 28
2 33 "    
 180   80 #
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi p ffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
ffi 180 80 6:325  6:325
warp count 
EPI PPI
6 weft count 77 þ  0:68
6 77  weave Factor 6:325 6:325 28
4 28 55


f28:46 12:65g
f28:46þ 12:65g 0:68
2 "n o #3
28
    pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
180 ffi
 
 pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi
80
4 180 80 40 Ne 40 Ne 5 41:11 360:019 0:68
pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi þ pffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffiffi  28
40 Ne 40 Ne 28
½41:11 ½12:86 0:68
20:78 "n o#3 ½41:1112:86 0:68
    ffiffiffiffiffiffi  p80ffiffiffiffi
p180
4 180 80 40 40 5 28:25 0:68
pffiffiffiffiffi þ pffiffiffiffiffi  0:78
40 40 28 19:21
 THE JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE 9

permanently from 25 cm to 26.95 cm due to the application

of dead weight, where the initial length was 25 cm. For this
sample ‘Type A’, the initial length was 25 cm, loaded length
was 29.9 cm, and length after relaxation was 26.95 cm. These
values were position in Table 3 and using formula of
stretch, growth and recovery, the stretching behaviors were
investigated and their consequences were shown in results
Figure 6. Sample preparation for stretchability test. and discussion section. Following same procedure all the
samples of plain, twill and sateen weave were experimented
and their outcomes were shown in Table 3.
Hence, the cover factor for fabric K is 19:21
Following same procedure, calculations for fabric L, M,
N, O were done with Equation 38 as specified above and 4. Results and discussion
the values were shown in Table 2.
4.1. Results of cover factor
Cover factor is a value that states the extent to which the
3.2. Experimentation of mechanical properties
part of a cloth is hemmed in by the yarns. It is the propor-
In this research, total fifteen nomenclatures of core spandex tion of space concealed by the yarns to the whole area of
woven fabrics were applied as detailed in Table 1. Sample of cloth. Table 2 states that, plain weave of sample E expressed
size ‘5cm  25cm’ was cut in weft way to measure the the highest cover factor of 29.58. Conversely, satin weave of
mechanical behavior as shown in Figure 6. sample O expressed the lowest cover factor of 20.53. This is
Mechanical properties such as stretch, growth and recov- because plain weave has highest interlacement points in
ery were measured with formula stated above in Equations each repeat unit than any other weave structures.
39–41 and their consequences were shown in Table 3. It is
seen from the Table 3 that, in all cases the initial length of
4.2. Results of mechanical properties
all the samples were 25 cm. In this investigation following
ASTM D 3107 Standard, for sample ‘Type A’, a weight of 3 The mechanical properties such as stretch, growth and
pound was hung to the fabric using woven fabric stretch recovery of these fifteen samples of cotton spandex woven
recovery tester ‘TESTEX TF154’. 3 pound of mass stressed fabrics were measured in accordance with the test method
the samples from 25 to 29.9 cm and counted the extended provided by ASTM D3107 standard and their values were
length. Further hanging was sustained for 30 min with a 3 positioned in below Table 3. It is seen from the table that
pound of mass to measure the actual growth. sateen fabric of ‘Type K’ exposed the maximum stretch,
After hanging for 30 min 3 pound of weight was with- growth and recovery values due to less binding points. The
drawn from the samples and relaxed the cloth for an hour. fabric of plain weave ‘Type E’ exposed the least values for
After having relaxed, the fabric length was actually extended stretch, growth and recovery due to maximum interlacement

Table 3. Results of stretching behaviors like stretch, growth, and recovery.

n Stretch%
o n Growth%
o nRecovery%
o
Total Cover Initial Length Loaded Length Length after ðyxÞ ðzxÞ ðyzÞ
 100  100 ðyxÞ
 100
S.N Construction Weave Factor (X) cm (Y) cm Relax (Z) cm x x
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type A 18080 Plain 1 27.69 25 29.9 26.95 19.6 7.8 60.2
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type B 19090 Plain 1 28.42 25 29.5 26.65 18 6.6 63.33
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type C 200100 Plain 1 28.99 25 28.9 26.35 15.6 5.4 65.38
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type D 210110 Plain 1 29.37 25 28.6 25.95 14.4 3.8 73.61
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type E 220120 Plain 1 29.58 25 28.1 25.5 12.4 2 83.87
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type F 18080 Twill 4 22.04 25 31.7 27.2 26.8 8.8 67.16
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type G 19090 Twill 4 22.62 25 31.1 26.9 24.4 7.6 68.85
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type H 200100 Twill 4 23.07 25 30.6 26.5 22.4 6 73.21
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type I 210110 Twill 4 23.38 25 29.9 26.2 19.6 4.8 75.51
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type J 220120 Twill 4 23.55 25 29.2 25.6 16.8 2.4 85.71
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type K 18080 7 Ends Sateen 6 19.21 25 34 27.4 36 9.6 73.33
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type L 19090 7 Ends Sateen 6 19.72 25 33.65 27 34.6 8 76.88
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type M 200100 7 Ends Sateen 6 20.11 25 33.1 26.6 32.4 6.4 80.25
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type N 210110 7 Ends Sateen 6 20.38 25 32.65 26.3 30.6 5.2 83.01
40ð40þ40DÞ 1
Type O 220120 7 Ends Sateen 6 20.53 25 32.15 25.8 28.6 3.2 88.81
10 S. ISLAM AND A. K. MOZUMDER

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