0% found this document useful (0 votes)
91 views

IB Film Lighting Notes

This document provides an in-depth overview of cinematic lighting techniques. It discusses how lighting can be used to set mood and manipulate scenes. Different lighting styles are recommended for different genres, like using bright natural lighting for comedies and low, shadowy lighting for horror films. The document also examines key lighting concepts like color temperature, lighting ratios, diffusion, and different lighting setups for subjects. Common lighting gear is outlined, along with how lighting can be used to shape characters and scenes.

Uploaded by

ivanka
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
0% found this document useful (0 votes)
91 views

IB Film Lighting Notes

This document provides an in-depth overview of cinematic lighting techniques. It discusses how lighting can be used to set mood and manipulate scenes. Different lighting styles are recommended for different genres, like using bright natural lighting for comedies and low, shadowy lighting for horror films. The document also examines key lighting concepts like color temperature, lighting ratios, diffusion, and different lighting setups for subjects. Common lighting gear is outlined, along with how lighting can be used to shape characters and scenes.

Uploaded by

ivanka
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 7

● Need to consider to ensure mise-en-scene is visible, set mood, & manipulate how things

are shown
● Different lighting for different genres, scenes, atmospheres, e.g.
○ Comedy: clear, bright, usually natural
○ Horror: low, illuminates subject & keeps background dark to heighten suspense,
stark shadows
● Available light sources:
○ Natural
■ Sunlight
■ Fire
○ Artificial: electricity
■ Professional film equipment
■ Fire / candle
■ Room
■ Streetlights
■ Car
● Film lighting made us believe yellow, warm lighting = sun/daytime while blue lighting =
night
● Single source/beam of light will always shine harder light (e.g. tungsten light w/ 1 beam
vs flat light w/ multiple beams (Pak Peter’s equipment))
○ E.g. sun: single beam - hard light; diffused by clouds - soft/er light
Ultimate Guide to Cinematic Lighting — Types of Light & Gear Explained [Shot List Ep. 12]
● Lighting can provide insights into character
● Decisions made primarily by DoP (determines how scenes are to be lit) & gaffer
(executes lighting setup & gear)
● Ambient lighting: any on location that crew didn’t bring, e.g. street lamps, neon signs,
moon
● Practical: any light source seen in frames, ambient or placed by gaffer
● Motivated: logical or reasonable justification for light in a scene — practical often exist
just to justify this
● Lumens: measurement of how much light a source produces
● Lux / footcandles: measures how much ^ light hits surface
● Reflective light: amount of light that hits the camera
● Amount of light dependent on strength of source & position in relation to subject
● Light fallout: as soon as light leaves source it begins to lose intensity — can predict
1
account of loss w/ inverse square law (𝑖𝑛𝑡𝑒𝑛𝑠𝑖𝑡𝑦 = 2 → every time we double
𝑑𝑖𝑠𝑡𝑎𝑛𝑐𝑒
distance away from source, light reduced by 75%)
● Color temp needs to be considered — measured in thermodynamic units, Kelvins (K)
● Daylight bluer than most artificial light by 5600 K
○ Can be imitated by artificial light sources w/ same temp
● Tungsten lights: common artificial source w/ color temp of 3200 K (but can vary w/
source)
● Mixing can add variety of temp/color w/ tungsten lights adding orange & daylight adding
blue
● Lighting terms:
○ Exposure: amount of light that reaches light sensor in lens
○ Aperture: adjustable mechanism that determines how much light enters lens
■ Various sizes measured in f-stops (f/1.4, f/2.8, f/4, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22, …)
■ Each f-stop doubles light or reduces by half
○ T-stops: common setting in camera settings to measure how much light hits
sensor
○ Contrast ratio/range: latitude - how balance & relationship b/n light & shadow is
expressed; how we measure light & shadow in 2 areas of an image, usually b/n 2
sides of subject’s face or b/n subject & background
■ Cam’s w/ higher latitudes usually more expensive cuz can capture images
in lower light
○ High-key lighting: low contrast ratio where background & subject lit evenly w/
minimal contrast
■ Usually used in lighter, happier scenes
○ Low-key lighting: high contrast ratio where difference b/n light & shadow much
greater, subject & background stand out against one another
■ Usually used for darker, more dramatic & tense scenes
○ Chiaroscuro: type of low-key lighting w/ high contrast ratio — seen most
frequently in film noir to enhance mysterious & dangerous qualities
○ Hard light: more directional light that creates stark shadows
■ Works best in more dramatic or tense scenes
○ Soft light: more diffused & generates less intense shadows
■ Often for happier or romantic scenes
■ Usually best during magic hour or golden hour (just before sunset & just
after sunrise when sunlight less harsh & more colorful)
○ Dumb side / broadside: lighting side of subject closer to cam often givins ubject
more approachable feeling
○ Smart side / shortside: lighting side of subject that isn’t facing cam, giving subject
more dramatic look
○ Lens flare: created when light hits lens — shapes & colors depends on lens
○ Bokeh: out of focus elements in shot, typically points of light that often add
romantic or painterly texture to image
● Lighting gear:
○ Tungsten
○ Daylight: usually achieved w/ HMI lights, stronger than tungsten
○ Fluorescent: offer soft, cool light
○ Kino Flos: banks of tube lights adjustable to various temps
○ LED lights: provide high amount of ctrl of color & strength
○ Gels: thin, plastic sheets that come in assortment of colors, help
cinematographers achieve desired hues
○ Light meter: measure amount of incidental light hitting subject which informs
exposure settings on cam
■ Some models have spot meter - allows to pinpoint exact part of image for
exposure
■ Many cams also have different modes to measure the reflective light
actually reaching lens
■ Other ways to measure light: waveforms, histograms, & false color
○ Diffusion: when semi-translucent material placed b/n light source & subject,
scattering light to make it softer; can be done w/
■ Softboxes: use translucent cloths placed in front of light
■ Diffusion paper: can achieve similar effect
■ Silks: for larger sources
■ Clouds, fog, dust, smoke: natural
■ Reflectors: bounces light to create diffusion & redirect light — come in
variety of colors & textures, each bringing unique type of diffusion (e.g.
bead board & foam core)
● White: softens light
● Silver: reflects hard light
● Mirror: reflects v/ hard light
● Gold: adds gold hue to warm up lighting
● Diffuser: set in front of hard light to change to soft
○ Neutral density gels: can be attached to light or applied to windows to reduce
sunlight
○ Flags: opaque boards, shape & block unwanted light
○ Barn doors: adjustable flaps on light source w/ similar function to
○ Egg crates: direct light & help it from spilling into unwanted areas
○ Cuculoris / ‘Cookies’: boards w/ patterns cut into them to create dappled effect &
texture to light, when placed in front of it
○ Light stands: poles that mount & position light sources
○ C-stands: also mount & position lights, can also set up diffusion, flags, &
reflectors, or any equipment
Ultimate Guide to Cinematic Lighting Pt. 2 — How to Light Subjects and Locations
● Styles & lighting setups:
○ Single subject: comes down to intention - how are they feeling, what do we want
audience to know abt their emotional state — most common:
■ 3-point lighting: 3 light sources directed at subject:
light, key light, backlight
● Key light: primary & strongest
● Fill light: fills in shadows created by ^; usually less strong & more
diffused — v/ dim or non-existent in low-key lighting; closer in
strength to key light in high-contrast lighting
○ Negative fill: process of blocking any unwanted fill light to
increase contrast
○ Difference b/n fill affects contrast ratio
● Backlight: positioned behind subject, creates rim of light around
their edges, separating them from background; types:
○ Edge lights or kickers focus on particular area of subject
○ Hair lights: usually angled down on subject’s hair to create
highlights
○ Catchlights / eyelights: tiny reflections of light source in
eyes which help give them depth
○ Image: https://www.studiobinder.com/blog/three-point-lighting-setup/
● Type of 3pL - Rembrandt lighting: placing key light slightly higher
& dimming fill light, creating signature triangle of light on darker
side of subject’s face
● Butterfly / paramount lighting: 2 lights: key light placed directly in
front of subject at high angle creates butterfly shaped shadow
under subject’s nose for glamorous shots that hide & smooth over
imperfections
● Loop lighting: similar to ^, but light set at 45° angle from subject’s
face & placed just above eye line — can seem to lengthen
subject’s face so often used on actors w/ oval-shaped faces
● Split lighting: key light hitting half of subject w/o key light, creating
dramatic effect, often for air of mystery
● Overhead: positions light over head of actor, can be used to
obscure eyes; amplifies bone structure
● Underlighting: places light under eyes to create unnatural-looking
shadows in face, often used in old horror films; can also amplify
bone structure
○ Multiple subject: must consider where attention should be focused — who is
supposed to stand out; should all be lit equally?
■ Typically, all characters in frame have key, fill, & back light, but no need
for separate lights for each — w/ smart blocking & light positioning, 1 light
can act as key light for 2 or more characters, or key for 1 & fill for another
● Cross-key / back cross: positioning light behind subjects act as
key for 1 character & backlight for other — esp useful for DIY
projects w/ multiple cam’s & few light sources
● Lighting locations
○ Ext. day: must be keenly aware of time of day; for most cinematographers,
shooting w/ sun directly on subject’s face generally avoided, so subjects often
placed w/ backs to sun so light can be bounced on faces more softly & sun can
act as backlight
■ Giant sets can be used to diffuse or block out sun to avoid overexposure
○ Ext. night: have to create light that doesn’t feel unnaturally light w/o
underexposing to still show scene
■ In rural setting, cinematographer often est. base light: non-directional light
that makes sure nothing is completely lost in black shadows — allows
colorists to have more control over shadows in editing
■ For moon light, DP often use moon cubes: large box filled w/ heavy
diffusers
● Musco light can be used for larger areas
● Cooler temp must be used
● Tends to be around 4100 K
■ Specials: smaller lights hidden in frame, can be used to make certain
elements in background more visible
■ Soft lights usually used on subjects
■ Occasionally, more directional equipment can be used for more stylistic
look
○ Int. day: usually more ctrl over light; cinematographer can use practicals: light
that appears in frame
■ Can shoot w/ or from outside light, inside light, or both
○ Int. night: relies more on artificial light cuz no sunlight

Exposure triangle
● Comprises
○ Aperture: ctrl’s depth of field, regulates the amount of
light that makes it to the light-sensitive surface
■ Opening in lens determines how much light
let in
■ Light has to travel through lens to sensor &
when light travels it always loses intensity
■ Reduce light by reducing opening; get more
light by opening it, but depth of field gets
decreased then
■ Designed b/c ISO hadn’t existed at the time
■ Technology came from telescopes
■ Can’t raise both ISO & aperture
■ B/c every lens is different, aperture
■ Every doubling of the light is called a stop (f-numbers)
● Each step is double the previous one
○ Shutter speed: shutter that opens & shuts at different speeds - can blur or freeze
motion
■ inverse of ISO
■ determines the frames per second (FPS): how many frames are captured
per second to create the illusion of motion
■ When things move while shutter is open, motion gets blurred in pics - this
creates motion in cinema
■ Standard shutter speed is 1/48 b/c fps is 24 so total cycle = 48
■ Less light - can keep shutter open for less time
○ ISO: international standards organization, sensitivity of the sensor - regulates the
sensitivity of the surface captured by cam & can add or subtract grain or noise
from image
■ Different cam’s have different sensors - the bigger the sensor the more
expensive
■ Too
much light - overwhelms
the cam, only shows white
■ Too
little light - not enough,
only shows black

■ Higher the number, greater sensitivity & better picture quality (more
visible)
■ Best sensors now can shoot at ISO 3200 or 6000 - some even go up to 4
mil
■ Chemistry of film limited ISO back then but that’s changed
■ Sensitivity can be changed in editing now
■ Same across all cam’s

Imaji’s presentation
● Motivation: where light is coming from
○ Subtext: used to represent abstract concepts, convey subtext, or emphasize
themes
○ Objective sources: lighting from anyth that exists within context of scene &
location to est atmosphere
● Objectively motivated light sources:
○ Practicals: light from property, exists naturally within setting of scene
○ Narrative-driven: lights emanating from narrative landscape that interacts w/
subject
○ Natural light: light from nature in scene, in relation to surrounding landscape (e.g.
sky, sun, thru trees)
● Subtext-motivated light sources:
○ Symbolic: lighting look contrast w/ tonal atmosphere of film to intensify
symbol/meaning
■ E.g. Pulp Fiction: opening the briefcase, light emanating from it - not clear
what’s inside but meaning created
○ Tonal: overall look, emotional tone of character’s state of mind or worldbuilding
● To create balanced lighting look, emphasize contrasts — important to consider interplay
b/n light & shadows to avoid flat lighting & create meaning
● Contrast creates visual interest
● Identify key light sources & their placement to est dominant light direction
● Strategically introduce fill lights (if any) depending on context of shot, to soften shadows
w/o completely eliminating them, ensuring balance b/n light & dark areas
● Use accent lights to enhance specific elements or create focal points, further enhancing
contrast & adding visual impact to composition
● If bored w/ 3-pt lighting
○ Use practical lights, e.g. lamps or candles, to create more natural & immersive
atmosphere
○ Experiment w/ unconventional light sources, e.g. colored gels or projections
○ Multiple key lights or incorporate backlighting to add depth & dimension
○ Master art of lighting modifiers, e.g. diffusers, reflectors, flags - allows to precisely
ctrl quality & direction of light
● Bounced & diffused lighting - both kinds needed
○ Interior lighting designed for diffused/soft light since we not longer use bare bulbs
○ Many windows tinted or frosted in Indo (cuz sunlight harsh) - keep in mind
○ Can bounce light off of wall or use diffuser to soften
○ When enough space (& looks better that way) use diffuser; when not enough
space, use wall or some sort of flat surface to bounce light off of
● If only have 1 light: put subject next to source & reflector on other side to ctrl shadows
● Front lights often produce flat lighting but adding other kinds of light can create contrast
● Top light can make characters’ eye sockets look black & hollow (e.g. The Godfather)
● Back light: creates mood, mystery, makes silhouette/shadow
● Omni-directional: can use practical sources, have characters in foreground, b/n lamp &
camera
● Tips:
○ Storyboard important to plan how light will interact w/ subject + make notes
○ Technical reconnaissance: visit shooting location to see how much space there
is, where can place light
○ Make lighting diagram to block sources & subject/s

You might also like