Chess For Beginners - A Complete Guide To Leading
Chess For Beginners - A Complete Guide To Leading
Queen 9
Rook 5
Bishop 3
Knight 3
Pawn 1
Hanging Pieces
The term hanging in chess means unprotected. Therefore, an unprotected
piece is known as a hanging piece.
Black just moved their Knight to g4, in hopes of capturing the Bishop on e3.
The problem is the Black Knight moved onto a square where it’s not
protected by one of its own. The White Queen can simply capture the Knight
for free: Qxg4.
Capturing Protected Pieces
When capturing protected pieces, a little bit of mental math is involved.
Piece you captured – piece you gave up = equal, losing, or winning points.
Both sides possess the same amount of points. It’s White’s turn to move, and
the Knight is attacking four pieces at once, but they are all protected. Which
one should the Knight capture?
Nxb5 The Queen is worth 9 points. If the Knight captures the Queen,
White will lose their Knight because of the Pawn or Rook. Math: 9 – 3 =
6. White wins 6 points and the strongest piece!
Nxc6 The Pawn is worth 1 point. If the Knight captures the Pawn, White
will lose their Knight because of the Pawn. Math: 1 – 3 = –2 points. White
loses 2 points for capturing a weaker piece.
Nxe6 The Bishop is worth 3 points. If the Knight captures the Bishop,
White will lose their Knight because of the Pawn. Math: 3 – 3 = 0. This is
called a trade (equal). No one wins or loses points.
Nxf5 The Rook is worth 5 points. If the Knight captures the Rook, White
will lose their Knight because of the Bishop. Math: 5 – 3 = 2. White wins
2 points for capturing a stronger piece.
Answer: The best capture for the Knight is the Queen on b5, which will win
them 6 points.
White is down 1 point. It’s White’s turn to move, and the Bishop is attacking
two pieces at the same time: the protected Rook and hanging Knight.
Bxa8 The Rook is worth 5 points. If the Bishop captures the Rook, White
will lose their Bishop because of the other Rook on f8. Math: 5 –3 = 2.
White wins 2 points for capturing a stronger (but protected) piece.
Bxb5 The Knight is worth 3 points. If the Bishop captures the Knight,
White won’t lose any points, since the Knight is not protected by any of
Black’s pieces. Math: 3 – 0 = 3. White wins 3 points for capturing an
unprotected piece.
Trading Pieces
A trade takes place when a piece of the same value captures a protected piece
of the same value, for example, Queen for Queen, Knight for Bishop, or
Pawn for Pawn.
Reasons for trades:
Black is down two Pawns but still maintains a strong position. The Queen
and Bishop are eyeing the h2 Pawn, which is doubly protected by the King
and the Knight.
Move: Attack
If your opponent made a move, and your piece is now under attack, first see
if you can capture it with an equal-value or lower-value piece. If no capture is
possible, move it away, unless it’s the same or higher value as the attacker; in
that case, you can also protect it. If the attacker is a lower-value piece, you
most likely want to move your piece.
Why did Black make this move? Are they attacking anything?
Black is attacking the Knight. White can’t simply protect their Knight
because the attacker is a lower-ranked piece. If 1. Be3 exd4, then White
losing a Knight for a Pawn would equal –2 points. We must do something
about the Knight.
What should White do now?
The Knight can move to b3, b5, e2, f3, or f5, or capture the Knight on c6 (a
trade). It can’t leave the Knight on the square or move it to e6 because of the
d7 and f7 Pawns.
Why did Black make this move?
Black is attacking the Knight. White has multiple possibilities—Ne4, Nf3,
and Rd1 to get the Knight out of danger—but sees that when the Queen made
the move, it stopped protecting the Rook. Who cares about our 3-point piece
if we can capture a 5-point one? 1. Qxc7.
Move: No Attack
If your opponent made a move and none of your pieces are under attack by
that piece, see if it was protecting another piece or protecting against a threat.
A lot of beginner chess players forget about pieces they were defending
earlier.
White moved the Knight. Is it attacking anything? No. The Pawn on c6 is
protected by the Pawn and Queen. Was the Knight defending anything? Yes.
It used to protect the other Knight.
1. Nd4?? 2. Bxd2
Black moved the Knight. Is it attacking anything? No. Was it protecting
anything? Yes. It used to protect the e8 square, so now White is able to
checkmate: 1. . .Nd5; 2. Re8#.
4. Look at the Whole Board
In my opinion, this strategy is critical, and many beginner players fail to
consider it. If you scan the whole board before and after your move, you will
make fewer mistakes. I have failed to remember this advice myself on certain
occasions. During those games, I was so focused on one side of the board, I
didn’t notice my opponent’s attack on the other.
Scanning the board before and after your move gives you a much better
chance of noticing:
1. e4 e5 White Pawn to e4, Black Pawn to e5. Both Pawns control the
center.
2. Nf3 d6 White Knight to f3, Black Pawn to d6. The White Knight
attacks the Pawn on e5, and Black defends differently than usual.
More common is the move 2. . .Nc6.
3. Bc4 Bg4 White Bishop to c4, Black Bishop to g4. White and Black
develop their Bishops. White’s Bishop eyes the f7 Pawn, but it’s
protected by the King. Black’s Bishop pins White’s Knight, which
can’t move because the Queen is behind. The Queen and Pawn are
protecting the Knight, which means if the Bishop captures the
Knight, the next move will result in a trade. Black captures a 3-
point piece, and White captures a 3-point piece, as well.
4. Nc3 g6? White Knight to c3, Black Pawn to g6 (bad move). Black
doesn’t see the next move coming . . . but before we get there, let’s
analyze this position. White has developed three strong pieces, the
two Knights and the Bishop, while Black has developed only the
Bishop. Which side is about to castle? White, because the Bishop
and Knight are no longer in the way.
5. Nxe5!! Bxd1?? White Knight captures Pawn on e5 (excellent
move), Black Bishop captures Queen on d1 (terrible move). Why
would the Knight capture the protected Pawn? Not only that, but
allow Black to capture their Queen? If Black captures the Knight,
5. . .dxe5; 6. Qxg4. White captures both a Pawn and a Bishop,
while Black has captured only a Knight. Therefore, White wins a
Pawn—this move is better than Black’s, but Black is too greedy
and goes for the Queen!
6. Bxf7+ Ke7 White Bishop captures Pawn on f7, check, Black King
to e7. The King can’t capture the Bishop or move to d7.
7. Nd5# White Knight to d5, checkmate. Checkmate! A really
beautiful example of keeping the King in the center. Yes, White’s
King is also not castled yet, but they can do so on any next move.
1. e4 e5 White Pawn to e4, Black Pawn to e5. Both Pawns control the
center.
2. Nf3 Nc6 White Knight to f3, Black Knight to c6. White attacks the
e5 Pawn. Black defends with the Knight.
3. Bc4 Nf6 White Bishop to c4, Black Knight to f6. Bishop develops
position to eye the f7 Pawn. Black develops the Knight and attacks
the e4 Pawn.
4. Ng5! White Knight to g5 (good move). White protects the e5 Pawn
and attacks the f7 Pawn simultaneously. White now has two
attackers on f7, while Black has one defender. Black’s best and
only response to defend f7 is: 4. . .d5! Black Pawn to d5 (good
move).
Black blocks the Bishop’s diagonal, and now there’s only one attacker and
one defender on the f7 Pawn. The d5 Pawn has two attackers but also two
defenders, which means if White decides to capture it, this will end up being
a trade. For example, 5. exd5 Nxd5; 6. Bxd5 Qxd5 (White Pawn captures
Pawn on d5, Black Knight captures Pawn on d5; 6. White Bishop captures
Knight on d5, Queen captures Bishop on d5).
If Black ignores the Fried Liver Attack
1. Material Advantage
2. King Safety
3. Pawn Structure
4. Space/Territory
5. Piece Mobility
Material Advantage
This is the most obvious advantage, and disadvantage, in chess. This is what
you should think about if you are the winning or losing side.
Winning Side
TRADE PIECES. The more of your opponent’s pieces you eliminate, the less
you have to worry about.
TRADE QUEENS. Get rid of your opponent’s strongest attacker, unless you
need your own for a winning attack.
DON’T BE OVERCONFIDENT. “The game isn’t over ’til it’s over!” Play
your best until the end. If you let your guard down, you might make mistakes
and change the outcome of the game.
King Safety
Make sure to observe your opponent’s King (and yours) at all times! If your
King is castled, but your opponent’s King isn’t, how can you keep theirs in
the center and prevent them from castling? Your opponent just moved a
Pawn near their King, and now the King is more open, so find ways to
destroy the defense and open it even further! Are some of your pieces nearby
the King? If so, can you bring in more pieces to start an attack?
Don’t forget about your own King! If the King is slightly open, or there are
opponent’s pieces nearby, this is probably a sign you must go into defense
mode!
White is up a Pawn, which is also a passed pawn. A passed pawn is a Pawn
that can’t be stopped by an opponent’s Pawns to get to the promotional rank.
The problem for White is that the Black Rook is on a2, which is looking
toward the King. We will take a look at this position from both perspectives.
Black to move
Black knows they are down a Pawn, so if they don’t do anything aggressive,
they will lose the game. The Rook on a2 is very strong and eyeing the g2
Pawn, which at the moment is protected until Black adds another attacker.
Black notices that most of White’s strong pieces are positioned on the
queenside, far from the King. If it were Black’s turn to move, it wouldn’t end
well for White!
3. Qf2 Qxf2+ White Queen to f2, Black Queen captures Queen on f2,
check.
4. Kh1 Qg2# White King to h1, Black Queen to g2, checkmate.
#3
Pawn Structure
Pawn structure weaknesses are isolated pawns, double/triple pawns, and
pawn islands. There are exceptions when these weaknesses can help in
different parts of the game.
Isolated Pawns
Isolated pawns are Pawns that aren’t being protected by other Pawns. Isolated
pawns are usually an inconvenience, because you have to use your strong
pieces as defenders when they could be of better use somewhere else. If you
want to get rid of an isolated pawn, look for a way to trade it with a Pawn of
your opponent’s.
Here, White’s Pawn on d4 is isolated. There is no Pawn on the c or e file to
protect it.
Black’s Pawns on b5 and h5 are isolated for the same reason. Because of this,
both sides’ Pawn structure isn’t the best.
Double/Triple Pawns
Double pawns are two Pawns positioned on the same file. Similarly, triple
pawns are three Pawns on the same file. Technically speaking, it is possible
to get quadruple pawns in chess, but it is rare. I feel like this is self-
explanatory, such as in the following example:
Pawn Islands
While isolated pawns are individual unprotected pawns, pawn islands are
groups of Pawns connected by files. The more pawn islands among your
pieces, the weaker your pawn structure, as they offer more targets for your
opponent. A pawn base is the first Pawn in a pawn chain (or string of Pawns)
not protected by another Pawn. The more pawn islands you have, the more
pawn bases you have, as well.
Two Pawn Islands versus Two Pawn Islands
White has two pawn islands, because there’s no Pawn on the e file: (1) a2,
b3, c4, d5 and (2) f4, g3, h2.
Black has two pawn islands, because there’s no Pawn on the e file and f file:
(1) a5, b6, c7, d6 and (2) g4, g6, h5.
White’s pawn bases are a2 and h2. These Pawns are going to be a target, and
White will have to use higher-ranked pieces to protect it. Black’s pawn bases
are c7 and g6.
One Pawn Island versus Two Pawn Islands
Below, White’s pawn structure is more promising because it has fewer
weaknesses. White has one pawn island and no isolated or double/triple
pawns. Black has two pawn islands, which will later become two
weaknesses, plus the double pawns are really not favorable, either. One
benefit of the double pawns (in this diagram), however, is that the e file is
open for a Rook. That’s what I mean about every pawn weakness having
exceptions. Trading pawn weakness for greater mobility of another piece is
worth it most of the time!
Three Pawn Islands versus Four Pawn Islands
Black’s pawn structure is the superior one in because it has fewer
weaknesses. To be honest, I don’t like either side here, but Black’s position is
slightly stronger. White has four pawn islands, and three of the islands are
isolated pawns. The pawn base on e3 is definitely a target, too. Black has
three pawn islands, two pawn bases, and only one isolated pawn.
Space/Territory
When it comes to space on the board, the more you have, the greater your
advantage in the game.
The same applies to your rooks. As the second most powerful pieces on the
board, you should wait until having developed other pieces before bringing
your rook into the game.
20. Try Not to Move Pieces Twice In A Row
As you know by now, it is very important to quickly develop pieces while
maintaining good tempo. A good way to achieve both results is to avoid
moving the same piece twice during the opening. In other words, after
developing a piece, a player should focus on making other developing moves
and consider moving already developed pieces later in the game. Some cases
might require moving the same piece twice, although this is somewhat rare.
There are many more general tips and strategies for openings to help you
improve your chess game, but the 12 mentioned above are some of the most
important ones.
Chapter 3. Tactics to Support Your Strategies
Chess is more about tactics. Therefore, you have to improve your chess
strategy. "Chess is ninety-nine percent strategic," said Richard Teichmann, a
celebrated German chess instructor, in 1908, and he was correct.
Tactics play a major character in all chess games and are the essential
elements of any strategy. A strategy is a general game plan, sentences about
where you need to be at any point during the match. The tactic is used to
implement a strategy. Your opponent will not sit and watch you lead your
strategy without objections. The tactic is used to force your opponent to
accept your moves. The tactic shows one or more moves to gain a short-term
advantage. These are fundamental steps in advancing a general strategy.
Many tactics can be memorized or learned and applied if necessary. By
setting more tactics, the player's arsenal becomes stronger. Learning new
tactics, when you have to work on tactics and what combination of tactics
works best together is a continuous activity throughout a player's life.
Here are some common tactics that are worth practicing:
Tactic No. 1: Battery Attack
When you think of Battery Attack, imagine an ordinary electric battery ...
each battery is an electric battery. If you want more control, you need to
gather more cells.
In chess, a battery attack is formed on the rows (ranks and files) by
accumulating Rooks and queens, while, diagonally, a bishop and a queen are
stacked or put together to give power to the enemy. The next day.
Both armies can show each other batteries that ...
However, suppose the White battery consists of 2 Rooks, while the Black
battery consists of 2 Rooks and a Queen ... Black has a more robust battery,
and White is wise to consolidate his 2 Rooks or to prevent an attack. Black
battery at this time
Tactic No. 2: Block
The block is a defensive tactic and is used whenever a bishop, a rook, or an
opposing queen manages to control their king.
What you can do is place a pedestrian or piece of land in the middle of the
attacking rival unit and the king- block the check and protect the king at least
temporarily.
Be aware, and even if your lock unit is provided by the King or other infantry
or support units, the attacker may decide to surprise the blocker in a
sacrificial maneuver that has been recorded to remove some of your king's
defense...
Tactic No. 3: Authorization
It is also known as "clean cleaning", which better describes what's going on
here.
Imagine you want to place a piece on a particular square, this reinforces the
attack you ride ... The issue here is that one of your pieces is already in that
square.
The issue here is that moving that piece leads to its recording. However,
because of the superior position you can get by getting the other piece in that
square, it is worth "clearing" that block of the piece, accepting its sacrifice, to
compensate for the damage you want. Bring (improved position).
Tactic No. 4: Angry
Decoy involves sending a rifle or sniper rifle to a particular area, as a
sacrifice to capture the enemy ...
After that, your "real" goal is reached, as the "wait" piece gives you the
chance to grab the enemy king or exploit another major part of your rival
(usually the queen). To take hold.
Tactic No. 5: Deviation
Imagine throwing a stone with enough force behind it on another rook ...
When it strikes, a stone with less power "deviates" from its resting position.
In chess, you can create an attack, and there is enough weight behind it (as
supporting pieces) to attack the enemy's position at a certain point, and this
forces your actual target, just as the king's enemy, to be forced. It escapes
from your current. The position ... The "lost" king moves away and puts you
in a stronger position.
The famous continuous Checkmate is known as "Legall's Mate," which
contains Deflection. In move 6, it happens when White's bishop turns the f7-
black gun, which will definitely place the black king back in control. To
protect the White Knight from the "e5" field, the Black King has no choice
but to move - this part deviates from the "e7" field (and Checkmate follows
White's next move).
Tactic No. 6: Discovery of The Attack
This tactic requires the cooperation of the two pieces. One will be in front of
the other; one of the backs of the hidden unit is waiting to be discovered or
"discovered." At the selected moment, the piece moves forward - basically to
launch an assault to another pawn/enemy piece and the remaining track is
revealed, attacking another pawn or enemy part (this is not the king's enemy)
more on This, in the next tactic.)
Following the attack, the opponent will have to choose to save or attack the
pedestrian to save ... Another attack will attack you. On a defensive note,
before making the next move, read the painting and look at your opposition’s
pieces. If you see two pieces in the neighboring squares (as well as each
sitting diagonally, side by side), first look back one by one and follow the
down line of the army on the path of your army. If you hit one of your pieces
and if the enemy's enemy is within range of your other forces, your opponent
may try to destroy you with a full-blown attack.
Tactic No. 7 Chess: Discovery Revealed
It includes principles similar to the attack detection standard. The main
contrast is that the adversary of the ruler is one of the pieces assaulted. Since
the king is assaulted, he will be "analyzed" ... this implies the king must be
ensured no matter what.
The checks were intended to catch the "other" adversary casualty.
Tactic No. 8: Fork Assault
At the point when a pawn or piece assaults (at least two) foe units with a
solitary move, it is known as a "fork assault".
Fork assaults can be "relative" or "outright".
The relative forks assault at least two foe units, however not the adversary
ruler.
Outright forks assault at least two adversary units, and this time, one of the
foes IS's pieces is the ruler. At the point when this is a relative assault, the
player can pick which gathering to spare and which to leave helpless before
the aggressor.
At the point when this is an outright assault, the player's top dog must be
ensured, as in check. The pawn/pieces/different pieces are assaulted by their
destiny.
Tactic No. 9: Intermezzo / Zwischenzug
In English, both "Intermezzo" and "Zwischenzug" mean "moderate
movement."
This tactic requires a bit of deception.
First, you make some wrong move, and your opponent reacts to it - this is the
"middle move" ... then you make a move.
Tactic No. 10: Pin Attack
The pins include attacking a piece of pedestrian or less valuable furniture in
the face of a more expensive piece behind it.
If the indispensable piece is the enemy king, it is known as the "absolute
needle," and the pawn / most expensive piece that is in front of it, you cannot
move to escape the threat - you can act against it. King. If it happens that an
indispensable piece is just another piece, the less valuable piece may go out
of its way, but it is often still in place to prevent obtaining a more valuable
piece.
Tactic No. 11: Sacrifices
Sacrifices are intentional attempts to play on foot or piece by piece in such
a situation that will be occupied. But instead, it is to compensate for your
damage or to capture one of the enemy's pieces or ability to win developing
lead.
Tactic No. 12: Brooch Attack
The skewer is the opposite of the pine.
When a brochure takes place, the attack is on a more valuable piece, which is
a pity that you can stand in the face of a Pawn or more valuable Piece.
The idea behind skewer is to set aside the indispensable piece so you can get
any victim it stands for.
Like Pin, the attacks from the brochure could be "more or less" or "absolute."
Tactic No. 13: Trap
Setting the trap can be a gamble ...
If your opponent identifies his hidden program, you will probably lose a
move.
Windmill Attacks gets its title from an observer, who watched the game in a
game and likened it to the rotating blades of a windmill ... and the name has
been used forever in these rare tactics...
What happens is that, due to the placement of a spare part, the attacking piece
puts the king's enemy in control, who must move to rotate to exit.
It allows our attack unit to capture one of the enemies ... this allows the king's
enemy to retreat ... but the attacker re-examines the king, who is forced to
take a turn. Pass to transfer to security, but this allows the attacking unit to
capture another enemy.
This series of rotations of surveys and recordings is the reason for this
sequence, which is called an air mill.
Tactic No.15: X-Ray Attack
When we refer to X-rays in Chess, we resemble Superman's X-ray vision.
The term "X-ray" was used to describe a piece's ability to "see" through
objects with the goal that they could focus their opinions on whatever
happened in it.
It is more of a "threat" than anything else because you cannot target the X-
rays. After all, the object (pedestrian or another object) blocks the path.
In total, there are three different forms of X-Ray Attack. Two of them are full
of "offensive" attacks, while the third includes "defensive" and "offensive"
elements.
Mistakes to Avoid
Carelessness can bring undesirable results. This is the same with chess. Some
players don’t lose because they lack the skill. Rather, they are not very
careful with their moves and end up doing something disadvantageous for
them. This can eventually cost them the game.
Here are the three common accidents in chess that every chess player should
be aware of. Knowing these will allow them to spot possible scenarios that
will lead to it and eventually avoid it.
Losing Your Piece For Nothing
Capturing one of your opponent’s pieces (or having one of yours captured) is
a normal part of the game. It is common for players to bait their opponent to
capture one of their pieces because another piece is guarding that square in
case it is captured. If you should lose a piece, the opponent should also lose
one of theirs. However, it can be costly for a player to lose any piece but
don’t get anything in return. This situation can be treated as if they gave
something to the opponent for free.
Here is an example:
In the image above, it can be seen that White moved his knight to f7 and
threaten Black’s queen and rook. However, what White fails to notice is that
the square where it landed on is guarded by Black’s king. Since the knight is
not guarded by any other piece in case of capture, Black can capture the
knight for free!
Sometimes, hanging pieces are not that obvious. The image below appears
like a normal opening sequence for the game.
However, if one is to look closely, White can capture Black’s rook on the
other corner of the board. Free 5 points for White! Even if Black decides to
block the bishop, it will surely be able to capture another piece before getting
captured.
A player should look on all areas carefully so that having a “hanging” piece
can be avoided. Obviously, this is a mistake that you want your enemies to
commit, as it can give you an advantage.
Losing A Piece with Higher Value
It was mentioned earlier that having one of your pieces captured for free is
bad. This opens the idea that you should at least get something in exchange
for that piece. However, this doesn’t mean that we should settle for pieces
that have a lower value. Capturing an opponent’s piece with a lower value
than ours is not good either.
If the game drags on and this trend of getting an “uneven trade” continues,
the player whose higher value pieces are traded for lower value ones will end
up with a deficit and eventually lose the game because their power is
significantly reduced.
The image above shows that White took out his queen way too early. Black
responded by moving his pawn to d5 and opening the bishop for capture. If
White decides to take on the bait, his queen will be easily captured even if
Black’s bishop has been sacrificed. By simply referring back to the point
value of pieces, it can be seen that White will lose 9 points while Black will
only lose 3.
Players should remember that even though capturing multiple pieces can help
them get an advantage, being able to target and capture high-value pieces is
still better. Trades should be based on the value of the piece, not on how
many can be captured in exchange for a high-value piece. Even if you are
able to capture three pawns, it would still be an uneven trade if your queen Or
Rook Gets Captured Because Of Those Small Pieces.
Your Pieces Are Outnumbered
It is common for a player to offer one of his pieces as bait so that he can
capture anything that attempts to capture that piece, especially if a piece with
a higher value will be involved. However, there are times when a piece is not
guarded enough. If the opponent sees an area that does not have enough
protection, he will surely exploit that weakness. He may even be willing to
sacrifice some of his lower value pieces just so he can capture your higher
value pieces. In this case, it’s important to defend possible weak areas more.
By doing this, your opponent will hesitate in capturing one of your pieces.
The image above is an example of the four-move
tactic that can win games for White. This tactic exploits the weakness of the
pawn in f7. With White to move, it can be seen that the said pawn is only
protected by Black’s King. However, that same piece is threatened by
White’s bishop and queen. Since the defense for that area is not sufficient,
White can capture that area without any problems, get protected by the
bishop, and checkmate the opponent.
Conclusion
You have to note that this is just an introductory book on chess. Every point
we have presented to you up to this point in this book are those we deem
important to you as a beginner. There is no need to fill your head with more
information that may end up leaving you more confused than you were
before you picked up this book to read.
So, what should you do with the little information you have gotten so far?
You should put the information into practice. Get yourself a chessboard and
get familiar with all the components of the board. Try and memorize all the
squares, ranks, and files. Once you are done doing that, the next thing you
should do is to arrange the chess pieces on the board correctly.
Start by playing with yourself – you will need to play the White and Black
pieces yourself. This is a great way to perfect a new skill you just learned.
The more you practice with an actual chessboard, the more you will master
how the different pieces move on the board. While playing, make sure you
apply all the techniques you have learned in this book. Make use of forks,
pins, and the many other techniques we have talked about.
If you cannot get your own physical chess board immediately, another good
way to practice what you have learned is to download a chess game on your
mobile phone. There are many free mobile chess games you can download
and start playing immediately. Just visit the app store for your mobile
operating system, type “chess” into the search bar, and download one of the
games that will pop up in the search results. Make sure you read reviews
before choosing the one to download.
Some online games will allow you to pair with another player online. Once
you have paired with someone, you can compete with this person and win
virtual points. Participating in such competitions is a great way to sharpen
your skills.
However, when you are just starting, I would recommend that you shun
online competitions entirely. You need to learn on your own first before
engaging in competitions. Many mobile chess games allow you to play with
the system as your opponent, and that’s one of the easiest ways to learn how
to play chess.
Open the game you have downloaded, select the option that allows you to
play with the system, choose a side, either White or Black, and then start
playing. When doing so, you should not only pay attention to what you are
playing, but you should also pay attention to the moves that the system is
making against you. You will learn a lot from the system’s moves. Keep
practicing and improving your skills, and don’t forget that chess can be quite
addictive.
Remember, this book has given you the basic foundation you need; it is left
for you to leverage this foundation and turn yourself into a chess master.
Chess is like music; no one would teach you how to play a musical
instrument such as the guitar from beginner to advanced level. No, most
instructors would show you the basics – the music progressions, and it is then
left for you to figure out the other things that will make you a great guitarist.
The same applies to chess; no one will teach you the hundreds of opening
moves and techniques out there. However, someone can furnish you with the
fundamentals, just as we have done. It is then left for you to take the basics
given to you and flesh it out.
That being said, there are tons of materials you can find on some of the
moves, techniques, tactics, defense methods, etc. that we have introduced in
this book. For instance, chess opening moves have thousands of texts already
written on that single subject alone. You will also find full books that are
only dedicated to chess tactics – pins, forks, etc.
What all this means is that you cannot get all the knowledge at once – you
will have to explore and learn more on your own. As you play more, you will
grow inquisitive, and this is what will make you try to seek out more
information on how to surmount a particular challenge you face.
Lastly, whenever you are playing, don’t feel shy to refer back to any section
of this book for clarifications on how best to make a move. This book is like
a reference guide for beginners – so you should be able to refer to it from
time to time.
Glossary
Absolute pin . When a piece is pinned to the king and cannot move because
the king would be placed in check
Alekhine’s defense . A chess opening with a position typically occurring
after 1.e4 nf6 2.e5 nd5 3.c4 nb6 4.d4 d6
Asymmetrical pawn structure . A pawn structure where, the pawns are not
symmetrical where one player has a pawn on a file where the opponent does
not
Attacker . A piece that attacks an opposing piece
Back rank . Another name for the first rank, the rank closest to the player
behind the pawns in the game’s starting position
Back rank mate . A checkmate that occurs when the king is attacked on the
back rank by a queen or rook and his escape is blocked by his own pawns
Backward pawn . A typically weak base pawn on a half-open file that may
be easily attacked by the opponent’s pieces, especially the rooks
Bad bishop . A weak bishop usually blocked by his own pawns that is a
permanent disadvantage
Base pawn . The pawn in a pawn chain that is closest to the player and has
no pawn to protect it
Bishop pair . The advantage of having both bishops typically against a
bishop and knight or two knights; worth about half a pawn
Blitz . A rapidly played game where each player typically gets five minutes
to complete all his moves or lose on time
Blumenfeld’s rule . Writing the move down on a score sheet before playing
it so that you can double check the move first, in an attempt to avoid making
an obvious blunder
Candidate moves . Reasonable moves that make sense without calculation, a
player’s main choices for his move
Capture . When a piece moves to a square where an opposing piece is
resting and removes the opposing piece from the board
Castling. A special move that usually occurs in the opening, getting the king
out of the center and developing the rook, and the only time a player can
move two pieces in one turn
Center . The middle of the board that includes the squares e4, e5, d4, and
d5
Centralizing the king . Strategically moving the king toward the center of
the board where he can join the battle, typically occurring in the endgame
Closed pawn structures . A position with pawns blocking the movement of
the pieces
Combination a series of moves that are played in an exact sequence to gain
an advantage
Counterattack. An attack mounted by the player who is defending
Cutting off the king . A barrier created by a rook or queen up a file or across
a rank where the opponent’s king cannot move across because he would be
moving into check
Dark-squared bishop . A bishop that moves on the dark colored squares
Defender. A piece that defends one of its own pieces
Deflection. A tactic where the defender is chased away from protecting a
critical square
Developing a piece (also called development) when a piece (knight, bishop,
rook, or queen) moves off its starting square to a better square, increasing its
power
Discovered attack . Moving a piece and attacking an opponent’s piece with a
bishop, rook, or queen hiding behind the piece that moved
Discovered check . Moving a piece and checking the opponent’s king with a
bishop, rook, or queen hiding behind the piece that moved
Double attack . A discovered attack where the moving piece also attacks an
opponent’s piece
Double check . A discovered check where the moving piece also checks the
king
Doubled isolated pawns . Two pawns lined up vertically on the same file
with no pawn on a file next to them that can protect them
Doubled pawns . Two pawns lined up vertically on the same file that have a
pawn on a file next to them that can provide protection
Draw . A chess game ending in a tie
Endgame. The part of the game when only a few pieces are still on the board
En passant (“in passing” in french) a special pawn capture that exists for
only one move and occurs when a pawn on the fifth rank captures an
opposing pawn on an adjacent file that advanced two squares forward as if it
only moved one square forward
En prise (“in take” in french) refers to piece that can be captured
Exchange . An equal trade of pieces in terms of material
Exchange sacrifice . To voluntarily trade a rook for a bishop or a knight,
also known as giving up the exchange
Gaining a tempo . Gaining a move
Grabbing pawns . A risky way to win pawns, since the opponent may gain
piece activity
Fianchetto . Developing a bishop to the square directly in front of where a
knight starts the game where the bishop is on the longest possible diagonal on
the board and can attack two of the center squares of its color
Files . Columns on the chessboard identified by a letter from a to h
Forcing moves . A series of moves (usually checks) that force a response
from the opponent, keeping him from carrying out his plan
Fork . A common tactic that occurs when a piece attacks two or more pieces
at once
Half-open file . A file where one player has a pawn and the other player
doesn’t have a pawn
Hol e. A weak square that cannot be attacked by a pawn, ideal for an
opponent to occupy with a piece
Initiative . Having the attack and being able to dictate the direction of the
game
Insufficient mating material . When a player does not have enough material
left on the board to force checkmate
Isolated passed pawn . A pawn that has the weakness of being isolated but
the strength of being passed
Isolated pawn a weak pawn that has no pawn on a file next to it
Interpose . To block or put in between
Kingside . The half of the board where the kings begin the game (the e-, f-,
g-, and h-files)
Kingside majority having more pawns on the kingside than the opponent
King’s indian defense . A chess opening with the position typically
occurring after 1.d4 nf6 2.c4 g6 3.nc3 bg7 4.e4 d6
Lever. The square where a pawn can capture the opponent’s pawn to open up
the position
Light-squared bishop . A bishop that moves on the light-colored squares
Losing a tempo . Losing a move
Main line a common sequence of opening moves where both players are
playing correctly, and the position is fairly even
Major pieces . Rooks and queens
Material. The sum of the values of the pieces
Mating material . Having enough material to force checkmate
Mating net . When the king’s flight squares are eliminated, making
checkmate possible
Middlegame. The middle part of the game after the pieces have been
developed, usually beginning around move ten and lasting until only a few
pieces remain on the board
Minor pieces . Knights and bishops
Minority attack . An attack by several pawns against a larger group of
pawns with the idea of weakening the larger group of pawns and opening up
lines of attack
Mobile pawns pawns that are not blocked and can move up the board
quickly and easily
Mobility. See piece activity
Open file . A file not blocked by any pawns
Open pawn structures . A position with no pawns blocking the free
movement of the pieces
Opening . The first ten or so moves of the game when most of the pieces are
developed and the kings castle
Opposite-colored bishops . Situation when each player has one bishop
remaining on the board, with each bishop traveling on different colored
squares where they cannot attack each other
Opposite side castling . When one player castles on the kingside and the
other player castles on the queenside
Outpost. A strong square, usually in the opponent’s territory, where a piece
(usually a knight) can be safe, protected by a pawn, and cannot be attacked
by an enemy pawn
Outside passed pawn . The passed pawn furthest away from the other pawns
where the main battle will take place
Overworked piece . A piece that has to protect two pieces (or squares) at the
same time that often can be taken advantage of tactically
Passed pawn . A pawn that can move all the way up the board to its
promotion square without being blocked or captured by an enemy pawn
Passive. Holding back
Pawn arrow . A line from the player’s side of the board toward his
opponent’s side of the board of a pawn chain that is locked up on two or
more files. Pawn arrows point in the direction where the player has more
space and generally wants to attack.
Pawn chain . Pawns on files next to each other that are connected in a
diagonal line, so they protect each other
Perpetual check . The most common type of threefold repetition, when the
player who is usually losing the game forces a position where he can check
the other king back and forth forever
Petroff’s defense . A chess opening with a position arising after 1.e4 e5
2.nf3 nf6
Piece activity . Having pieces on good squares where they can move freely
Pin when a long-range piece (queen, rook, or bishop) attacks an opponent’s
piece that is shielding another piece of greater value
Process of elimination . A decision making process where, to find the best
move, you eliminate legal moves that you determine are clearly not the best
move
Promotion or promoting a pawn . When a pawn gets across the board to the
eighth rank and turns into another piece, usually a queen
Protected . When a piece is defended by another piece, usually making it a
bad idea for the opponent to capture it
Protected passed pawn . A passed pawn that is protected by a friendly pawn
Queenside . The half of the board where the queens begin the game (the a-,
b-, c-, and d-files)
Queenside majority . Having more pawns on the queenside than the
opponent
Ranks. The chess name for rows that run horizontally across a chess board
Resign. A way to lose a chess game, typically signified by tipping over one’s
king, in a hopeless position
Rook lift . Moving a rook forward, usually to the third rank, and then in front
of pawns on the second rank, where it can attack on a file into the opponent’s
territory
Ruy lopez . A chess opening with a position arising after 1.e4 e5 2.nf3 nc6
3.bb5
Sacrifice . Giving up material in order to gain some other type of advantage
or checkmate
Sicilian defense . A chess opening with a position arising after 1.e4 c5
Skewer . A type of tactic like a pin, but where the more valuable piece is in
front of the less valuable piece
Space . An element of chess, related to piece activity, referring to the number
of squares controlled by each of the players
Square of the pawn . An imaginary square the defending king must get into
in order to win the race to the promotion square against an enemy pawn
Stalemate . A type of draw where the player to move has no legal moves
Stonewall dutch defense . A chess opening with a position typically
occurring after 1.d4 f5 2.c4 e6 3.g3 d5 4.bg2 c6
Symmetrical pawn structure . A pawn structure where on each file that
white has a pawn, black has a pawn opposite him
Tactics . Immediate threats and attacks that make up the battles between
pieces
Threefold repetition . A type of draw that occurs when the same identical
position repeats three different times
Tempo . A single move, relating to time
Threat . An aggressive move that attacks an opposing piece
Tripled isolated pawns . Three pawns lined up vertically on the same file
with no pawn on a file next to them to provide protection
Tripled pawns . Three pawns lined up vertically on the same file with a
pawn on a file next to them that can provide protection
Uncastled king . A king that has not castled and is usually in the middle of
the board
Variation. A logical sequence of moves different from the main line
Zugzwang. A german word meaning “compulsion to move.” Usually
occurring in the endgame when there are fewer available moves, a player is
“in zugzwang” when it is his move, and every possible move makes his
position worse. It is when a player would prefer to pass his move to his
opponent, if he could.
7th rank. The rank on the opponent’s side of the board where his pawns begin
the game
8th rank. The rank furthest away from the player, where his pawns promote
Great players
Mikhail botvinnik (1911-1995) world champion (ussr) – 1948-1957, 1958-
1960, 1961-1963
Jose raul capablanca (1888-1942) world champion (cuba) – 1921-1927
Irving chernev (1900-1981) noted chess author and master
Bobby fischer (1943-2008) world champion (usa) – 1972-1975
Hans kmoch (1894-1973) austrian chess international master, author, and
journalist
Alexander kotov (1913-1981) russian grandmaster and author
Bent larsen (1935-2010) 6-time danish champion and world champion
contender
Emanuel lasker (1868-1941) world champion (germany) – 1894-1921
Edmar mednis (1937-2002) u.s. chess grandmaster and author from latvia
Paul morphy (1837-1884) unofficially the first world champion from new
orleans
Lajos portisch (born in 1937) 8-time hungarian champion and world
champion contender
Rudolf spielmann (1883-1942) austrian world champion contender and
author
Siegbert tarrasch (1862-1934) german world champion contender and chess
writer
Savielly tartakower (1887-1956) 2-time polish champion and chess
journalist
Eugene znosko-borovsky (1884-1954) russian chess master, teacher, and
writer