Chillers Air Handlers Atv - 9108682812 - 62740
Chillers Air Handlers Atv - 9108682812 - 62740
Dometic
Rev. 20171013
L-2812 English
PN: 0880268
www.dometic.com
No part of this publication may be reproduced, translated, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without prior written consent by Dometic Corporation. Every precaution
has been taken in the preparation of this manual to ensure its accuracy. However, Dometic Corporation assumes no responsibility for
errors and omission. Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of this product and information contained
herein.
Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION
Congratulations on the purchase of your Dometic chilled water system! This manual will provide necessary information for the
proper installation, operation, and maintenance of your system. Dometic units are well-engineered, well-built, and thoroughly
tested at the factory. They will provide many years of trouble-free comfort if properly installed, operated, and maintained. And if
you need help, you have the comfort of knowing you have the marine HVAC industry's largest world-wide network of factory
trained dealers to promptly and professionally service your equipment. Moreover, you are backed by Dometic’s well-earned
reputation for above-and-beyond, world-class customer care.
SAFETY
RECOGNIZE SAFETY SYMBOLS, WORDS AND LABELS
The following symbols and labels are used throughout this manual to indicate immediate or potential safety hazards. it is the
owner’s and installer’s responsibility to read and comply with all safety information and instructions accompanying these
symbols. Failure to heed safety information increases the risk of personal injury, property damage, and/or product damage.
WARNING
The word “WARNING” indicates hazards or unsafe practices which COULD result in severe personal injury or death.
CAUTION
The word “CAUTION” indicates hazards or unsafe practices which COULD result in minor or moderate personal injury,
product damage, or property damage.
OPERATIONAL SAFETY
Installation and servicing of this system can be hazardous due to system pressure, moving parts, heat, and electrical
components. Only trained and certified service personnel should install, repair, or service equipment. When working on this
equipment, always observe precautions described in the literature, tags, and labels attached to the unit. Follow all safety codes.
Wear safety glasses and work gloves and place a fire extinguisher close to the work area. Do not work alone.
WARNING
Never install your air conditioner in the bilge or engine room areas. Ensure that the selected location is sealed from
direct access to bilge and/or engine room vapors.
Do not terminate condensate drain line within 4 feet of any outlet of engine or generator exhaust systems, nor in a
compartment housing an engine or generator, nor in a bilge, unless the drain is connected properly to a sealed
condensate or shower sump pump.
Failure to comply may allow bilge or engine room vapors to mix with the air conditioner’s return air and contaminate
living areas which may result in injury or death.
WARNING
Do not locate the airhandler or ducting in locations where they could become conduits for hazardous fumes. For
example, do not locate the inlet of a fresh air makeup unit such that it could suck in exhaust fumes or any other
hazardous fumes.
WARNING
Electrical shock hazard. Disconnect voltage at main panel or power source before opening any cover.
WARNING
To minimize the hazard of electrical shock and personal injury, chillers, airhandlers, and all electrically powered
equipment must be effectively grounded. Refer to installation guidelines for further information.
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HOW IT WORKS Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual
WARNING
The electric heaters inside the airhandler can cause severe burns. After disconnecting power to the heater, allow the
blower to continue to run for 5 minutes at high speed before working near the heater. If the blower cannot be used to
cool the heater, then let the heater cool for 2 hours after disconnecting power before working near the heater.
WARNING
The blowers have moving parts that can cause severe injuries. Never touch a spinning blower wheel. Always turn the
blower off and allow it to come to a complete stop before working near it. Always wear eye protection. If a screw or
other small object hits the spinning blower wheel, the small object will become a dangerous projectile. Note that drafts
can cause the wheel to begin to spin even when there is no power to the blower. Thus, even an unpowered blower
wheel can cause injury. Eliminate the draft and wait for the blower wheel to stop spinning.
HOW IT WORKS
Your chilled water air conditioning system consists of the chiller, airhandlers installed throughout the vessel, freshwater piping
connecting the chiller to the airhandlers, and the seawater system. The chiller consists of three major components: the
compressor, the condenser, and the evaporator (or heat exchanger). The chiller is charged with a refrigerant that circulates
throughout these components. The airhandlers consist of two major components: the blower and coil. Fresh water circulates
through the piping from the chiller to each airhandler and back.
In cooling mode, warm cabin air is drawn (or blown) across the airhandler coil by the blower. Heat is removed from the air as it
passes across the coil. The cooled air is then blown back into the cabin. The heat from the cabin air is transferred to the fresh
water circulating through the coil. The warmed water is pumped back to the chiller. The water is circulated through the chiller's
evaporator where the heat is transferred to the refrigerant in the evaporator coil, thus cooling the "chilled" water. The "heated"
refrigerant gas is returned to the compressor, compressed, and then circulated through the outer tube in the chiller's condenser
coil. Seawater is circulating through the condenser via the seawater system. The heat is transferred from the refrigerant to the
seawater and pumped overboard taking the original cabin air heat with it. The circulating, "chilled" water (not seawater) is then
pumped back through the piping to the airhandlers in a continuous loop as the cycle repeats.
If the vessel is heated, it is either by reverse cycle or electric heat. Each method pumps warm water from the module to the
airhandlers. For reverse cycle heating, the module's refrigerant flows in the opposite direction through a reversing valve, thus
adding heat to the fresh water loop, instead of removing it as in the cooling mode. Electric heat systems use a heater barrel to
warm the fresh water. Some systems also use electric heating coils built into the airhandlers that warm the air directly.
INSTALLATION
A circulated water system will only perform as well as the quality of the installation. This consists mainly of plumbing and wiring,
which can be handled by most boatyards. Each aspect of the installation should be thoroughly planned to minimize time-
consuming mistakes and maximize performance.
MOUNTING
LOCATION OF AIRHANDLERS
Good planning is essential for achieving optimal results. Good planning requires good understanding. So, please read the entire
manual before beginning the installation.
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Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual INSTALLATION
SAFETY FIRST!
Never install an airhandler in the bilge or engine room areas. Insure that the selected location is sealed from direct access to
bilge and/or engine room vapors. Do not terminate condensate drain line within four (4) feet of any outlet of engine or generator
exhaust systems, nor in a compartment housing an engine or generator, nor in a bilge, unless the drain is connected properly to
a sealed condensate or shower sump pump.
Do not locate the airhandler or ducting in locations where they could become conduits for hazardous fumes. Be especially
mindful of this with ducted-inlet units such as ducted-inlet fresh air makeup units. For example, do not locate air inlets or
discharges near sources of exhaust fumes.
Refer to “Operational Safety” on page 1.
ACCESS
Select a location that allows good access for service, visual inspection, and removal of the unit. It is especially important to
make sure that the filter can be conveniently replaced. The 3-way valve (if any), electric heat (if any), manual thermal overload
(for units with electric heat), blower, bleeder, duct connection, water connections, and the service ball valves (supplied by the
installer) must all be accessible for service.
AUDIBLE NOISE
Finding good locations for the unit, duct, diffusers, and return-air grille is a good start towards a quiet room. See “Minimizing
Audible Noise” on page 3.
AVOID CONDENSATION
Most airhandlers only have 1/8" of insulation. They will perform better, make less condensation, and look better longer if they
are located in a semi-conditioned space. If possible, avoid putting them in places where the exterior of the airhandler will be
exposed to outside air or air from saunas or showers. Note that engine rooms usually have large ventilators, exposing
everything in the engine room to outside air.
Custom airhandlers with ½" insulation are available upon request. However, insulation of complex shapes is seldom perfect.
Thus, it is still best to avoid the need for heavier insulation by finding a better location. Custom attachments are available for the
air inlets of fresh air make-up units so that the exterior of the unit itself need not be exposed to the fresh air.
Standard airhandlers should not be used to condition outside air. Special units called 'Fresh Air Make Up' (FAMU, or simply MU)
are available for that purpose.
FREEZE PROTECTION
Putting the airhandler in a semi-conditioned space will also help protect against freezing. Exposure to sub-freezing ambient air
may freeze the coil if adequate precautions are not taken. When possible, avoid the situation entirely by not exposing the
airhandler to sub-freezing temperatures. See “Avoiding Frozen Airhandlers” on page 19.
KEY PRINCIPLES
• Rigid, heavy materials tend to reflect airborne noise. Soft, THICK materials tend to dissipate a small fraction of the
noise passing through them. Thus, these two types of material tend to work well together, especially when layered. The
(first) layer of soft material should be between the noise source and the heavy, rigid layer.
• In general, anything that causes turbulence or restriction is likely to create noise. Exception: There are sound
absorbing boxes and duct configurations that are restrictive and perhaps even turbulent, but their net effect is to
REDUCE the transmitted noise. A good example is the return-air arrangement described below.
• Sharp transitions tend to create more noise than smooth transitions.
• Slow moving air tends to make less noise than fast moving air. Thus, large duct tends to create less noise than small
duct. (However, do not grossly oversize the duct if it means creating sharp transitions.) Large diffusers tend to create
less noise than small diffusers. However, do not grossly over-size the diffuser. Grossly oversizing a diffuser will reduce
the velocity and momentum of the leaving air (its "throw"). This can cause the air in the room to be poorly mixed. If the
supply is close to the return, it can also cause an undesirable "short circuit effect", with the supply air returning directly
to the unit without doing much to cool the space.
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AIR DISTRIBUTION Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual
PRACTICAL SUGGESTIONS
• Vibration: Transmission of vibration generated by airhandlers is rarely if ever an issue. But, make sure the airhandler
is securely fastened to a rigid, massive structure. If vibration isolators are included with the airhandler, use them. Aside
from that, focus on airborne noise.
• Blower type: Consider using units with DC blowers. DC blowers are quieter than standard blowers.
• Multiple units: For noise-critical spaces, multiple small units may be better than one large unit. Smaller units move
less air. More diffusers usually mean less "throw" is required. Ductwork tends to be shorter and simpler. It will usually
be possible to oversize the duct. (For example, 8" duct is standard for a 24K, but a pair of 12K airhandlers can both use
6". For a 12K, 7" is nicely oversized, reducing noise generation.) All of these factors tend to reduce noise.
• Return-air grilles: Putting the unit close to the return-air grille is usually a good idea. But if noise is critical, it may be
better to put it at a slight distance. Airborne sound likes to travel down a short, straight path with heavy, rigid walls that
channel the noise. So, make the distance long. Include one or more 90-180° changes of direction. Use heavy, rigid
walls to keep the noise from escaping, but line these walls with a soft, sound-absorbing material. Cautions: Be sure
the unit is drawing its air from the space it is conditioning. Be sure that the return-air path is generously sized. (The
cross-sectional area at every point in the return-air path should be at least as large as the minimum return-air grille
size. Any restriction here will adversely affect the units airflow and performance, and will tend to cause air to be drawn
in from undesirable places.) Be sure the unit is still accessible for service and removal. Be sure that the materials you
use are suitable from a flammability and smoke-generation standpoint. The filter can be remote from the unit, but be
sure that air cannot bypass the filter. Be sure the filter is readily replaceable.
• Duct length: Most airhandlers should have at least five feet (1.52m) of duct. This length reduces motor noise and
blower vane tip noise transmitted to the space.
• Bends: ONE 90° bend in the supply duct is desirable, because it will attenuate noise that was generated upstream. It
should be downstream of the unit and any transition boxes. Each additional elbow will provide successively decreasing
noise attenuation, and the benefit of any additional noise attenuation is usually outweighed by the additional noise
generated by the restriction.
• Blower speed: Do not use duct work or diffusers to reduce airflow. This will create noise. Instead, reduce the blower
speed.
• Experiment: The more realistic the relevant conditions are, the more significant the results will be. Some top-quality
yacht builders routinely assemble mock systems outside the vessel. They can easily modify it and try different things
because it is not installed in a boat. They know how well a given duct design will work BEFORE they install it, perhaps
even before the layout of the boat is finalized.
AIR DISTRIBUTION
Good air flow is critical for the performance of the entire system. It is highly dependent on the quality of the ducting installation.
The ducting should be run as straight, smooth and taut as possible. Minimize the number of bends.
THERMAL INSULATION
Comfort and Efficiency: Thermal insulation is one of the most cost-effective improvements to comfort and efficiency that can
be made, because the best way to beat the heat (or the cold) is to prevent it from ever entering in the first place. Once insulation
is installed, it is virtually maintenance free. It costs nothing to operate, and has no moving parts. Thermal insulation also tends to
dampen audible noise. NEVER underestimate the importance of good insulation! Insulation is NOT just for ducts.
Vessel Envelope: The entire vessel envelope should be insulated. Insulation is especially important for the semi-horizontal
areas exposed to the sun. Even areas below the water-line need to be insulated. This is especially important for boats in cold
water. If there is no insulation or no vapor barrier, then cold seawater temperature will make the hull cold, and water vapor from
inside the warm boat will condense on the hull and become a breeding ground for mold and mildew.
R-Value: Most duct should be at least R4 (1" fiberglass). Duct in very hot spaces, such as above or in front of a flybridge,
should be at least R6 (1.5" fiberglass). And, the hot space itself should be insulated with at least R4 insulation. Return ducts in
semi-conditioned spaces do not require insulation unless there is reason to believe the temperature in a given space may be
more than 5° warmer than the return duct. The most critical feature is that the supply duct be adequately insulated. This not only
keeps the supply air cold, but it prevents condensation from forming.
Do Not Compress: Do not compress the insulation. For example, do not use tie wraps or wire to support insulation. The
localized compression will cause poor performance, condensation, and eventually damage the insulation. Use broad straps to
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Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual AIR DISTRIBUTION
support the duct. Ideally, support for flex duct should wrap around the bottom half of the duct, and should be at least 6" long.
This will spread the weight out so the insulation will not be pinched.
Vapor Barrier: Insulation always needs a vapor barrier to effectively prevent condensation. This means that the outer surface
of the insulation must be impenetrable to water vapor. For example, if the outer surface of a piece of flex duct is torn, water
vapor can enter. As the water vapor migrates through the fiberglass, it will eventually come in contact with the cold inner lining of
the duct. Condensation will form, and the duct will soon be saturated with water. Thus it is important to maintain an air-tight
vapor barrier around the insulation. Location of the vapor barrier is also critical. The insulation must be between the vapor
barrier and the cold surface.
Sealing Duct: Various aluminum backed tape and mastics are specifically made for sealing duct. Use them liberally. Note that
both require clean, dry surfaces. Closed cell insulation such as Dometic uses to insulate most airhandlers and chillers is an
inherent vapor barrier on both sides. However, most fiberglass insulation requires a separate vapor barrier. Most flex duct
includes a vapor barrier jacket on the outside. Rigid fiberglass usually has an aluminum paper vapor barrier on one side.
DUCT INSTALLATION
CRITICAL: Ducting MUST be installed BEFORE other systems. Otherwise, conduit, wiring, plumbing, etc. will prevent the duct
from going in properly. The resulting compromises will decrease performance and increase noise.
All ducting should:
• Be appropriately sized for each application.
• Run as smoothly and be as taut as possible.
• Have as few bends or loops as possible.
• Be securely fastened to prevent sagging during boat operation.
• Have all excess ducting lengths trimmed off.
• Not be flattened or kinked.
• Be appropriately insulated, especially in hot or humid spaces (hull side, mechanical compartments, fly bridge ceilings,
etc.)
FREE AREA
Free area is the area NOT occupied by the vanes of the grille. Free area is the total cross-sectional area through which the air
can actually pass. For some grilles, especially some "linear diffusers", the free area may be considerably less than the face area
of the grille.
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AIR DISTRIBUTION Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual
CALCULATING AREA
1. The area of a square or rectangle in square inches: Multiply the length (in inches) by the width (in inches).
2. The cross-sectional area of a round duct in square inches: The radius equals half the internal diameter. Multiply the
radius (r) by itself (r2), and multiply that number by 3.1416 (pi). The result is the cross-sectional area of the duct.
Duct Diameter 4 / 10.6 5 / 12.7 5 / 12.7 6 / 15.3 7 / 17.8 7 / 17.8 8 / 20.3 8 / 20.3
(inches/cm)
Duct Area 12.6 / 81 19.6 / 126 19.6 / 126 28.3 / 183 38.5 / 248 38.5 / 248 50.3 / 325 50.3 / 325
(square inches/square cm)
Return-Air Grille, free area 49 / 316 70 / 452 98 / 632 140 / 903 168 / 200 / 280 / 420 /
(square inches/square cm) 1084 1290 1806 2710
Supply-Air Grille, free area 24 / 155 35 / 226 50 / 323 70 / 452 84 / 542 100 / 645 140 / 903 210 /
(square inches/square cm) 1355
TRANSITION BOXES
The total outlet area of a transition box should be at least equal to the inlet area. The inlet area should be at least equal to the
area of the inlet duct.
PLENUMS
Built-in air plenums should be constructed to deliver proper airflow and minimize air noise. Plenums should be fully pressurized
by the air delivery through the duct work and incorporate diffusers when necessary to create an even flow across the entire
surface of the supply grille or outlet. The cross sectional area of the plenum should be equal to or SLIGHTLY greater than that
of the supply duct. Undersized plenums create air turbulence and noise. Oversized plenums do not pressurize sufficiently and
cause low discharge air velocity. Plenums, especially those made of wood, must be properly insulated. Wood is permeable to
water and water vapor, and should be sealed to prevent delamination.
DUAL BLOWERS
This chart applies to all single discharge airhandlers. For dual discharge airhandlers, treat each discharge as though it were an
airhandler of half size. For example, a 24K airhandler with two discharges would use two 6" ducts. Each duct would have 28.3
sq. in., and the total supply-air grille area would equal 70 sq. in. (The total combined supply-air grille area would equal 70 + 70 =
140 sq. in.) But, the return-air grille would still be at least 280 sq. in.
RETURN-AIR DUCT
We do not recommend return-air duct. If done, then it should be as unrestrictive as possible. The return-air duct should be AT
LEAST 1" larger in diameter than the supply.
SLIMLINES
Duct and supply-air grille sizes do not apply to Slimlines. Slimlines are intended for minimal ducting. Slimlines may only have
one duct - no transitions or splits. The duct and supply-air grille must have at least the same cross-sectional area as the unit
discharge. The duct may only be two to five feet long and have no more than one 90° turn.
BLOWTHROUGHS
Blowthrough airhandlers are not ducted and do not use supply-air grilles.
SUPPLY-AIR GRILLES
• Locate the supply-air grille as high as possible. Air should flow gently across the ceiling of the cabin to form natural
convection currents with the cool supply air falling and forcing warm air through the return-air stream or up to the
ceiling to mix with the cooler supply air. Failure to deliver the supply air high can result in stratification of the air,
causing cooler temperatures near the floor and warmer temperatures near the ceiling.
• Do not let air from the supply-air grille immediately travel to the return-air grille. This is known as "short cycling", and it
will result in poor performance and inadequate air conditioning.
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Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual ELECTRIC HEAT
RETURN-AIR GRILLES
• Locate the return-air grille as low as possible.
• The return-air grille should be very close to the airhandler to provide minimally restricted airflow to the coil.
• If a filter is put in the return-air grille, then it is important to force ALL the air going to the unit to go through that filter.
Carefully seal up all gaps where air might bypass the filter. If a filter is NOT put in the return-air grille, then the filter
must be attached to the airhandler.
• The return-air grille must be appropriately sized or it will restrict the airflow.
ELECTRIC HEAT
WARNING
DANGER! ELECTRIC SHOCK! Be sure to turn off power at the circuit breaker before attempting to work on or near the
heater or overloads.
DANGER! BURNS! Be sure to let the heater cool off before working on or near it. With the heater off, let the blower run
for five minutes to cool the heater down before working on or near it. If the blower cannot run, the let the heater cool
off for 2 hours after disconnecting power.
Some airhandlers have electric heat. The heater assembly has two thermal overloads. One automatically resets, and it may
cycle on/off for various reasons. The other must be manually reset. (Older models may have a thermal link instead of a manual
overload. Thermal links must be replaced if they trip. They are like fuses. They cannot be reset.)
If power is cut to the unit while the heater is operating, the manual overload may trip. If the manual overload trips for any
OTHER reason, it must not be reset until the root cause is found and corrected. Note that the overload cannot be reset until it
has sufficiently cooled.
SMELL: It is normal to detect an odor the first few times you use a heater every year.
SPECIFIC MODELS
AT AIRHANDLERS
• Rotatable Blowers: AT airhandlers have rotatable blowers. The blower should be rotated so that the duct can come
off straight. Minimize the number and severity of bends in the duct.
• Overload Reset Access: There is a green plug in the top of the unit. Removing this plug opens access to the reset
button on the thermal overload. Use a plastic pen or other non-conductive object to depress the overload. Remember
to put the plug back in. The plug helps prevent air from bypassing the coil.
• Secure the unit to the deck using the mounting feet provided.
ATL AIRHANDLERS
• ATLs are low-profile airhandlers for horizontal applications. They are a suitable replacement for horizontal Slimlines.
They have stronger blowers than the old Slimlines, and also tend to be quieter. The ATL is intended to be ducted.
• ATLs can be suspended or deck mounted. Brackets for this purpose are included with the unit. Note that the height of
the suspension bracket is adjustable.
ATV AIRHANDLERS
• ATVs are designed for applications where depth is limited. They are a suitable replacement for vertical Slimlines. They
have stronger blowers than the old Slimlines, and also tend to be quieter. Like the AT, the ATV is intended to be ducted.
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SPECIFIC MODELS Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual
• ATVs should be secured at the base using the clips provided. The clips need only secure the unit from moving. The
springy clips and insulation provide vibration isolation. The top must also be secured. Note that the top brackets have
adjustable depth.
ABL AIRHANDLERS
• ABL airhandlers are dual-blower airhandlers.
• ABL airhandlers can be suspended or deck mounted using the brackets provided. Suspension mounting is generally
preferred, because heater access is from underneath.
BLOWTHROUGH AIRHANDLERS
• Blowthroughs are non-ductable airhandlers designed to be installed high in a cabin area, at the top of lockers,
bulkhead corners, or overhead compartments. Because they are not ducted, they must be able to deliver air directly
into the conditioned space. They must be located against the inside of a bulkhead or partition common to the space to
be conditioned. The supply-air grille must have free area at least equal to the cross-sectional area of the coil (i.e.,
length x width of the coil).
• If the Blowthrough cannot be flush mounted against the bulkhead or partition, a plenum chamber may be attached
between the face of the coil and the inside of the partition. The cross-sectional area of the plenum must be equal or
slightly larger than that of the coil. The plenum must be a short, straight run, and it must be completely sealed.
Blowthroughs are NOT intended for ducted applications. The plenum must be insulated and have a good vapor barrier
to prevent condensation. Wood is permeable to water and water vapor, and should be sealed to prevent delamination.
• There are four vibration isolation grommets in the top of the unit for suspension mounting. Each grommet has a hole
for a screw.
• The filter and return air to a Blowthrough airhandler must be provided by a properly sized return-air grille. The filter
must be located at the return-air grille, because the unit cannot accept a filter. Be sure any gaps in the return-air path
are filled so that no return air can bypass the filter.
• Mounting: First insert the grommets. Then insert the sleeves. Use both clips in the front. Use both grommets and
sleeves to secure the airhandler to the deck (see Figure 2). Also use two clips in the front to secure the airhandler to
the deck. Thus, the airhandler is secured at four points (2 grommets + 2 clips). One clip goes anywhere on the left of
the front drain, one clip goes on the right. Figure 3 shows the possible locations for the left clip.
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Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual SPECIFIC MODELS
Grommet Sleeve
• Drains: The two rear drains on AU airhandlers should always be installed. The front drain should be connected if
needed for a particular application. Use only PVC hosebarbs with three wraps of threaded-seal tape. The front drain
may be plugged using a PVC hosebarb with three wraps of threaded-seal tape.
• Strain relief: Secure field wiring using a standard wire tie. The wire tie on the right secures the factory wiring, and
there is provision on the left to secure the field wiring in the same manner as shown in Figure 4.
Factory Wiring
Field Wiring
• Breathe Easy Option: Some AU airhandlers include a Breathe EasyTM air purifier. The Breathe Easy can also easily
be added to AU airhandlers. This is highly recommended. The Breathe Easy is not a filter, nor is it a mere UV bulb. It is
an air purification system consisting of a ultraviolet (UV) lamp and a photocatalytic oxidizer (PCO) nano-mesh. The
lamp is of a wavelength that does NOT create destructive ozone. Many systems consist only of a UV bulb. Some of
these create harmful ozone. And because they do not have a PCO, they are only able to affect living organisms. The
Breathe Easy is able to reduce those same biological contaminants such as pollen, mold spores bacteria, viruses, but
Breathe Easy is also able to reduce many other contaminants including fumes, smoke, odors, and VOCs.
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FRESH AIR MAKE UP UNIT (FAMU) Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual
WARNING
Ultraviolet (UV) light is harmful - never look directly at a lit UV lamp without UV protective glasses. Do not expose your
skin directly to the UV light without protection. Note that the indirect light, the blue glow, is safe.
Turn off the breaker and then unplug the lamp before servicing. Remember that the bulb is glass and does get hot. Hot
glass looks just like cold glass. Allow the lamp to cool for 5 minutes before servicing to avoid burns. The glass is
fragile, so use safety gloves to avoid cuts if the glass should break. Replace the bulb annually. Models AU6-12 use
bulb 4210800. Models AU18-24 use bulb 4210802.
• Overload Reset Access: There is a swivel plate on top of the unit that grants access to the reset button of the heater
overload. Use a plastic pen or other non-conductive object to depress the overload button. Remember to cover the
hole with the plate when finished. This helps prevent air from bypassing the coil.
WARNING
Do not install a FAMU near exhausts or sources of carbon monoxide of any sort.
Do not install in engine rooms.
STANDARD MU CONTROL
Standard “MU” models include the standard MU control. The control comes wired to the unit—no additional control is needed.
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Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual FRESH AIR MAKE UP UNIT (FAMU)
SMU CONTROL
The SMU control is also known as the "steady heat" MU control. These units have "SMU" in the model number. The control
comes wired to the unit—no additional control is needed. The SMU control benefits the generator by reducing electric heater
cycles. Instead of frequently pulsing a larger heater on and off, the SMU leaves a smaller electric heater on or off for a long
period because it's based on the temperature of the inlet air.
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CIRCULATING WATER SYSTEM Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual
HOSE
Flexible, reinforced hose between the service valve and the unit will isolate vibration. Hose to an airhandler should match the
hosebarb that comes with the airhandler. Each hose connection should use double/reversed stainless steel hose clamps.
TIGHT CONNECTIONS
Always be sure to double-check connections (especially hose clamps) for correct placement and tightness. If possible, double
hose clamps should be used at every hose connection for redundant protection against leaks. The hose clamp screws should
be located opposite one another.
AIR BLEEDERS
Provision must be made to remove air from the system. All airhandlers include bleeder valves. Note that when air is bled from
the system, water will usually be released also. The water may be collected in a sump or a bucket. Plan ahead to avoid a mess.
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Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual CONDENSATE WATER
STRAINER
Strainers are mandatory in the condenser/seawater circuit AND in the circulated water circuit. Failure to follow these
guidelines will void the warranty!
The circulated water strainer should be a 20-mesh "Y-strainer". Finer meshes will clean the system better, but they are likely to
need cleaning too often and thus become a nuisance. More open meshes must not be used because they will not adequately
protect the components.
CLEANLINESS
• Clean Coils: Boat yards are often very dusty places, especially while a boat is being built. This dust can quickly clog
an airhandler coil if precautions are not taken. The safest thing to do is to put a piece of cardboard in front of the coil for
protection, and do not operate the airhandler until the boat is finished. However, it is usually necessary to run the
airhandlers during construction. If so, use a good quality, disposable filter. This will keep the coils looking new. Be sure
to remove and replace those filters as needed and before delivery of the boat to the customer.
• Clean Water: Be sure the water going to the airhandlers is clean. When the boat is first constructed, or if much piping
is changed, the circulated water system should be thoroughly flushed. Short-circuit the airhandler's service ball valves
so that no water flows through the airhandler during this process. And, include a 20-mesh strainer. The chiller manual
describes these requirements in more detail.
THERMAL INSULATION
• When to insulate: Leak checking the system after everything is insulated is sure to create frustration. Before the leak
check, it is OK to insulate straight lengths of pipe, but do not insulate the joints or fittings until AFTER the leak check. If
there are any leaks, they will probably be at the joints or fittings. Having the joints and fittings still uninsulated will make
the leaks easier to find and fix. After checking for leaks, insulate the joints and fittings. Any exposed pipe can sweat
and cause water damage so it is very important to insulate the piping thoroughly.
• Insulation material: We recommend closed cell insulation at least 3/4" thick insulation on the pipes. Piping through
unconditioned space or other areas where the dewpoint may exceed 74°F will require thicker insulation.
• Size: The internal diameter of the insulation should match the external diameter of the pipe. If the insulation is too
large, air will get between the insulation and the pipe and create condensation that may run down the pipe and show
up some place else. This condensation will be minimal if the air cannot circulate, but it is better to avoid it altogether by
avoiding the air gap. If the insulation is too small, it will be difficult to install. If split insulation is too small, it may
eventually split open. Taping the split insulation all around will prevent this. The ideal solution is un-split insulation that
closely fits or is just a little snug.
• Thorough: All piping should be thoroughly insulated to prevent condensation. Improper insulation is a common
problem with chilled water systems, and very difficult to find and correct, even after the water damage is noticed. A gap
in the insulation will produce condensation on the pipes, which can run down inside the insulation to a different
location. Insulation must be air tight.
• Split insulation: If using split insulation, seams should be closed tightly, sealed with glue or tape. Completely
wrapping split insulation with a sturdy cloth tape will also make it more durable and much less likely to split back open.
All water fittings, connections, valves, etc. in the system should be well insulated, after the system is leak tested.
• Do not compress: Do not compress the insulation. For example, do not use tie wraps on insulation. The localized
compression will cause poor performance, condensation, and eventually damage the insulation.
FLOW CONTROLS
Dometic offers and recommends a flow control on each airhandler. If some airhandlers take more water flow than they are
designed for, that means other airhandlers will likely get less water flow than they need. Flow controls help ensure that no
airhandler takes more flow than it should, and thus all the airhandlers get what they need. (The chillers do not need flow
controls.)
CONDENSATE WATER
WARNING
Do not terminate condensate drain lines within four (4) feet of any outlet of engine or generator exhaust fumes, nor in
a compartment housing an engine or generator, nor in a bilge, nor anywhere else containing hazardous fumes, unless
the drain is connected properly to a sealed condensate or shower sump pump. Otherwise, those fumes may travel up
the condensate line and contaminate living spaces.
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ELECTRICAL Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual
ROUTING
Connect the condensate outlets to proper tubing and route to an appropriate location such as an overboard fitting or sump. Do
not permit condensate to puddle in the bilge. Be sure the condensate line follows a consistently downhill route free of loops,
kinks, or upward bends. When considered necessary, P-traps could be used to stop undesired vapors from traveling up the
condensate line. Avoid creating any unintentional air traps which could prevent proper drainage.
TEE FITTINGS
Most airhandlers have at least two condensate drains. These may be connected together into a single drain line using a tee if a
minimum 2" (5.1cm) drop exists from the drains to the tee.
HEEL PROTECTION
For installations on sailboats or any vessel that heels more than 15°, position airhandlers so that the condensate pans drain port
and starboard. Note that most airhandlers have two or more drain connections. One drain connection should be on the port
side, the other should be starboard.
CONNECTION
Attach a 5/8" id reinforced hose to the connection provided and tighten with a single hose clamp.
THERMAL INSULATION
Because the condensate water is cold, it will make the condensate plumbing cold, too. Thus, water can condense on the outside
of the condensate plumbing if it is not insulated. This is called "secondary condensation". This is why Dometic always insulates
condensate drain pans.
In many applications, the condensate lines do not get cold enough and the ambient air is dry enough that little or no condensate
occurs even on uninsulated condensate plumbing. However, we recommend 3/8" wall closed cell insulation on the condensate
plumbing as a precaution, especially if it must pass through unconditioned spaces.
TEST
Test the condensate routing by pouring a quart of water into the pan and checking for flow.
ELECTRICAL
WIRING DIAGRAM
Connect power and accessories per the wiring diagram that came with the unit. The diagram will normally be found in the
electric box. If you are installing a Gold Series airhandler with the EU Package, see below.
14 L-2812 ENGLISH
Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual ELECTRICAL
Second, the male plug has a ring around it with a key. The key must be aligned with the slots on the female plug as shown in
Figure 9, then twist the ring to lock it in place as shown in Figure 10.
ELECTRICAL GROUNDING
WARNING
Failure to properly ground the unit can result in injury or death.
All units must be effectively grounded to minimize the hazard of electric shock and personal injury. This should be done by
connecting a ground wire to the ground inside the electric box. Custom units, such as those lacking an electric box, may require
other methods of grounding. Ground any given unit as indicated by the wiring diagram that comes with it. AC (alternating
current) grounding (green wire) must be provided with the AC power conductors and connected to the ground terminal (marked
"GRND") at the AC power input terminal block of the unit(s), per ABYC standard E-8, or equivalent.
L-2812 ENGLISH 15
ELECTRICAL Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual
CONTROLS
Dometic offers a variety of control solutions. The limited wiring information provided in this manual is applicable regardless of
what style controls are used. Your controls manual has more information specific to the particular type of controls used on your
system. Be sure to read it carefully.
WATER SENSORS
The main function of the water sensor is to report the temperature of the water entering the airhandler to the control. It is
therefore essential that the sensor make good thermal contact with the copper. For example, if the control wants cooling but the
sensor is reporting the hot ambient rather than the cold copper temperature, then the control will think the water is hot. If the
control wants cooling but thinks the water is hot, the control will not open the valve.
Water sensors should normally be attached to the copper tube where the circulating water enters the airhandler. Be sure it is
making good thermal contact with the copper. Never attach a sensor to plastic pipe or hose.
Many airhandlers have a sensor well for this purpose. The sensor should be put in the sensor well. Be sure there is plenty of
thermal mastic to ensure good thermal contact and hold it in position with electrical tape. See Figure 11.
If there is no sensor well, use a little thermal mastic and tighten the sensor to the copper. A band clamp works well for this
purpose. This is also a good way to secure the sensor. Just don't tighten it so much that you crush the copper. Do not use tape
to hold the sensor to the copper, because condensation will cause it to loosen over time. See Figure 12.
16 L-2812 ENGLISH
Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual ELECTRICAL
Regardless whether or not there is a sensor well, secure the sensor so it cannot be accidentally dislodged. As always, do not
compress the insulation. Insulate the pipe and sensor together, so that the sensor reads the copper temperature and not the
ambient air.
For the Gold Series airhandler with the EU Package the sensor well is in a slightly different location, as shown. In this
position, the water sensor does not require insulation. The water sensor should be secured with a tie-wrap.
Some units use a "change-over-switch" (COS). These are commonly found on Fresh Air Makeup Units (FAMUs). They are held
on with a spring. Note that the spring may NOT be adequate to secure the wire. Because they are switches rather than sensors,
it is not usually necessary to insulate them.
3-Way Valve
AIR SENSORS
Outside air sensor: If an outside air sensor is used, do not mount it in direct sunlight or on a hot surface.
Built-in display sensor: Cruisair displays do not have a built-in sensor. But, most Marine Air displays have a built-in sensor for
measuring the room temperature. In cases where the display has a sensor, the following rules for sensors apply to the display
also, unless a remote return-air sensor is used.
Sensor location: NEVER put a sensor in direct sunlight, near any heat producing appliances, on an outside wall, or in a
bulkhead where heat from behind the panel might affect the sensor. NEVER put a sensor in a location where supply air can
blow directly on it. NEVER put a sensor near or directly under a diffuser. NEVER put a sensor behind a door, in a corner, under
a stairwell, or any place where the air is not freely circulating. Do not put them in cabinets.
Remote return-air sensors: Most applications do not need a separate return-air sensor, because the sensor in the display
provides excellent control. If a return-air sensor is used, put it in a location where it will read the temperature of the return air. If
a remote sensor is used, the sensor in the display is ignored. Return-air sensors should only be used if the display must be
mounted in a location that violates one of the above rules for sensor location.
Air sensor location for Gold Series with EU Package: The air sensor should be installed as shown in Figure 15:
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START-UP Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual
Figure 15: Placement of air sensor for Gold Series with EU Package
START-UP
PRESSURE PORTS
Some airhandlers have ¼" Shrader valves as pressure ports. With the valve in the "open" position, use the pressure ports to
make sure water is flowing through the airhandler in the right direction. High pressure corresponds to the water inlet. Low
pressure is the water out.
The gauge you use to measure water pressure must NOT be used to measure refrigerant pressures! Otherwise, you will
contaminate the refrigerant circuit with moisture.
BLEEDING
• For new installations, follow the procedures in the chiller manual.
• When retrofitting a new airhandler, open only the inlet valve. Bleed as much air as possible. After bleeding the air, open
the return valve (water out of the airhandler).
• Add water and anti-freeze as necessary to maintain the correct system pressure and freeze protection as indicated in
the chiller manual.
• Note: Low water pressure can cause some airhandlers, especially those high up, to be put into a negative pressure
situation. Whenever an airhandler's bleeder valve is opened, water should come out in a pressurized stream. If air
comes OUT, it means the system has not been completely bled. If NOTHING comes out, it probably means there is not
enough water pressure in the system.
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Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual OPERATION
OPERATION
TURNING OFF CIRCUIT BREAKERS
If you want to turn off power to an airhandler while the airhandler's electric heater is still hot or running, residual heat may cause
the manual thermal overload to trip. If that happens, you will not be able to operate the electric heater again until the overload
has been manually reset. To avoid this, turn the heater off while allowing the blower to continue to run at high speed for 3
minutes. This will cool the heater off and prevent the overload from tripping.
CONTROLS
Dometic supplies a variety of controls for airhandlers and chillers. Refer to the appropriate control manual for more information.
L-2812 ENGLISH 19
AIRHANDLER MAINTENANCE Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual
AIRHANDLER MAINTENANCE
MONTHLY
AIR FILTERS
Dirty filters will reduce airflow and capacity. At least once a month, check the lint screen or filter behind the return-air grille or on
the face of the airhandler. Replace or clean if necessary. The pleated, Breath EasyTM microparticle filters should be replaced,
not cleaned. Reusable plastic filters should be vacuumed or washed with tap water. Do not use soap or solvents.
YEARLY
FREEZE PROTECTION
Check the level of non-toxic anti-freeze protection using a refractometer. 20% propylene glycol is recommended. Never allow
the freezing point to rise above 20°F.
AIRHANDLER VALVES
Airhandler motorized water valves should be inspected for corrosion that may bind the gear.
1. With the airhandler off, access the water valve and remove the motor case. Inspect the gears and remove any build-
up on the motor gear and/or the valve gear.
2. Dry thoroughly and lubricate with a silicon spray or equivalent.
3. Manually test the gear mechanism using the lever on the top of the valve before reassembly.
SENSORS
All control probes and sensors should be inspected for proper location and fastening. Improperly located and/or secured probes
will provide erroneous readings, causing improper operation.
1. Check all sensors at each airhandler for proper location. Water sensors should be securely fastened and insulated on
the supply connection (water inlet) of the airhandler.
2. If the built in air sensor on the controller display panel is not utilized, the remote air sensors should be located in the
return-air stream as close to the cabin area as possible without being in contact with any other hot or cold surface.
3. Sensors in loose-fitting sensor wells require generous thermal compound. Thermal compound is designed to readily
transfer heat, and thus it helps the sensor maintain good thermal contact. The sensor well should be insulated.
4. All sensors externally fastened to coils, pipes, etc. should be securely fastened with thermal mastic between the
contact surfaces and insulated when necessary to provide accurate readings.
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Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual TROUBLESHOOTING
TROUBLESHOOTING
CAUTION
Do not leave any safeties (i.e., flowswitch, high pressure switch, low pressure switch, freeze sensor) switched/jumped
out. They are safety devices designed to protect the system. Damage to the chillers could result if the safety devices
are not working.
CAUTION
If a safety trips, it is important to find out WHY it tripped and fix the root problem. For example, a chiller may be able to
adequately cool a boat despite the fact that the flow switch trips intermittently. But if a flow problem goes uncorrected,
it will likely cause the evaporator to freeze and rupture. This is considered negligence and is NOT covered under
warranty. DO NOT IGNORE THE SAFETIES! Find and fix the root cause.
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TROUBLESHOOTING Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual
NOISY AIRHANDLER
• Any foreign object inside the blower can create loud noise and possibly damage the blower.
• Shipping or handling damage may cause the spinning blower wheel to rub on the blower inlet.
• A gurgling sound indicates air in system. Bleed the airhandler and the entire system. Fix any leaks, add water, and
raise the water pressure as appropriate.
• Air noise may be caused from duct problems or a bad blower. Read the section on Audible Noise.
• A clicking sound with airhandler fan off, but circulation pump running, may be a bad flow control valve, or even a
circulation pump problem.
22 L-2812 ENGLISH
Airhandler Installation, Operation & Maintenance Manual GLOSSARY
GLOSSARY
3-WAY VALVE: . An electrically operated water regulating valve on an individual airhandler controlled by the thermostat. This valve provides
water flow through the airhandler when opened, and bypasses water flow from the supply side to the return side when closed. On
airhandlers, 3-way valves are superior to modulating valves because they provide better humidity control. The voltage supplied to the
3-way valve should be ±10% of its nominal rating.
AIRHANDLER: The fan coil unit that circulates air into a specific area for heating or cooling.
BLEEDER PORTS: Capped ports connected to 1/4" flexible tubing located on the airhandlers for purging air from the chilled water circulation
system.
BTU: (British Thermal Unit) A common term used to define and measure capacity or refrigeration effect.
CFM: Abbreviation for "cubic feet per minute", a term used to specify the volume of airflow through the airhandlers and ducting.
CHILL CHASER: An auxiliary electric heater located in the airhandler.
CIRCUIT BREAKER: An electrical device which provides high current and short circuit protection for the compressor, airhandlers and pumps
used in the chilled water system. HACR (heating, air conditioning & refrigeration) type circuit breakers are recommended for the ship's
panel. HACR circuit breakers have a long delay to compensate for the electrical surge associated with compressor.
CONDENSATE DRAIN PAN: The pan directly under the airhandler's coil for removal of the "condensed" moisture taken out of the cabin air.
Two drain spud attachments are provided for connection to drain hoses for proper removal of the water to a sump. There is also a
condensate drain pan located under each chiller and the chilled water pump.
ELECTRIC HEAT: Electric resistance heaters are used as a chill chaser in the airhandlers to warm the air, or in the chiller heater barrels to
warm the circulating water in heat mode.
FILL ASSEMBLY: The point where a water hose is temporarily attached to the circulating water circuit in order to fill it. The fill assembly typically
includes a ball valve and a pressure reducing valve.
GPM: Abbreviation for "gallons per minute", a term used to specify the amount of water flow through the chilled water or seawater system.
R-VALUE: R-value is the industry standard measure of a material's resistance to heat transfer. The higher the R-value, the more effective it is as
an insulator.
RUN CAPACITOR: An electrical storage device used to reduce amperage to some electric motors for more efficient operation.
SEMICONDITIONED SPACE: A semiconditioned space is a space that meets the following requirements:
• It is at least 95% bounded by conditioned spaces, or by other semiconditioned spaces, or by vertical surfaces with at least R4
insulation.
• It is not exposed to outside air. There must be an effective vapor barrier.
• It is exposed to conditioned, return air.
• It is not conditioned with its own diffusers.
One example is the horizontal crawl space that divides two conditioned decks. Another example is the vertical space between a salon
and the wall that separates it from the outdoors. In such a case, the wall should be insulated with at least R4 insulation.
SPIROTOP® is a registered trademark of Spirotherm, Inc. It is a device used to remove air from circulating water. It is typically installed at high
points in the system.
SPIROVENT® is a registered trademark of Spirotherm, Inc. It is a device used to remove air from circulating water. It is typically installed inline
in the circulating water piping in the engine room upstream of the pump.
THERMOSTAT: An adjustable control device that senses room temperature, via an air thermistor or sensor, and operates the motorized valve (if
installed) on an airhandler for water flow. For example, it is necessary in most sensor wells.
TON: In refrigeration/air conditioning, a ton is the amount of heat absorbed in melting a ton (2000 pounds/908 kg) of ice over a 24-hour period.
The ton of refrigeration is equal to 288,000 BTU in 24 hours. Divide 288,000 by 24 and get 12,000 BTU per hour. Therefore, one ton of
refrigeration = 12,000 BTU/hr.
VAPOR BARRIER: A thin layer of material that prevents vapor from entering the protected space. Insulation without a vapor barrier, with a
compromised vapor barrier, or with the vapor barrier in the wrong place will allow water vapor to migrate through the insulation and
condense on the cold surface. The insulation must be between the cold surface and the vapor barrier.
Y STRAINER: A serviceable inline device used to filter debris from the water. It has a physical shape reminiscent of the letter "Y".
L-2812 ENGLISH 23
NOTES
NOTES
DOMETIC MARINE DIVISION
2000 N. Andrews Ave.
Pompano Beach, FL 33069 USA
Tel +1 954-973-2477
Fax +1 954-979-4414
Email [email protected]
dometic.com