PAINT WORK Ordinary paint systems consist of a Primer, Undercoats and Finishing coats. Primer The primer must adhere to surfaces which could be shiny, chemically aggressive and at times very hot. Primers are used to seal porous surfaces which would cause loss of gloss in the finsh and to equalize suction on surfaces which could lead to uneven sheen or gloss. Various primers minmise bleeding e.g. of bitumen staining by resin or sap stained timber. On metals etching and corrosion inhibiting primers are important. Undercoats provide obliteration and must adhere well to the primer and to each other. They fill minute surface depression’s and provide a good base so that the finishing coat will not sink and lose its gloss. Finishing coat The finishing coat forms the final protection against the weather, chemical and mechanical damage, and finally determines texture and colour. Surfaces are generally described as with sheen, full gloss, eggshell (lustre, satin, velvet or suede), flat or matt. Composition of paints All paints contain a Binder ( or medium) which harden. Other ingredient found invarious paints include; pigments, styainers, extenders, driers, catalysts or hardeners thinners or solvents and gelling agents. Paints of the same brand and type can be intermixed to vary their colour and a suitable thinner may be added. Otherwise no addition should be made to the factory product. Binders (media or vehicle) The binders must bind the ingredients, adhere to and sometimes penetrate or seal the surface. Common binders are glue, casein, natural drying oils or synthetic thermoplastic and thermosetting resins, bitumen and cement. Driers and catalysts Driers catalase and spd up the process of earl ly drying. catalysts or hardeners — ei rate component, ‘s—either asa in in (si in or incorporated in (single Pack)- induce an irreversible chemicalchangeleading to hardening but gives body, help to keep pigments in suspension, harden the film and reduce gloss. Solvents and thinners Solvents are added in manufacture and thinner are sometimes added later to render oils, resins and wax mix- able with each other, adjust viscosity of paint suit the method and condition of application and to help penetration. Excessive thinning reduce gloss and density of the paint film. Oil and oleo- resinous paints can be thinned with turpentine and white spirit. Bitumen is thinned with naphtha. Cement paints, emulsion paint washable and nonwashable distempers are thinned with water. Other constituents include flatting agent to reduce gloss, gelling agents and emulsifiers. Types of paints Straight oil paints; These are based on natural drying ols and usually thinned with white spirit. They have relativel low flow properties and gloss. The oildries by the absorption of oxygen causing polymerization is liable to saponification by alkalis of which Portland cement is a common source. Drying oils include raw linseed oil, boiled linseed oil, pale boiled oil, etc. Oleo- resinous paints (high - gloss or hard gloss ) These comprise of drying oils reinforced with natural synthetic resins. These show a marked improvement in gloss, durabitlity and other properties over straight oil paints. Oil modified alkyd paints Theses paints are flexible and very durable. The resin is“ built in’ by reacting a complex acid wit a complex alcohol in the presence of a drying oil. Synthetic resin paints These paints contain substantial proportins of synthetic resins suchas acrylic, polyurethane and epoxides. ~ Acrylic resin paints is water white and holds colour well. It is rapid drying and extremel durable factory finish. 7 7- Polyurethane paints air drying are used like alkyd gloss paints but have better resistanc to water, alkalis, and wear. Epoxy resin paints are tough and have better resistance to water, alkalis and abrasion than oil modified alkyds. Cellulose nitrate paints (or lacquers) Base on cellulose nitrate compounds, contain suitable solvents, alkyd resins as plasticisers for flexibility and toughness and resins for hardness and body. Nitro- cellulose finishes contain less solids than oil or ole — resinous paints so that more coats are required. The paint presents a serious fire risk in storage and during application. It used for some factory finished components but on the building site its use is mainly confined ‘to metallic finishes — on metal balustrades. Bituminous paints These paints are made from bitumen, asphatum, pitch or resin sometimes with heat treated oil and solvents, Bituminous products are black or dark in colour if pigmented. They are largely used for protecting steelwork from corrosion. They adhere well, are flexible and resist moisture and chemicals, but tend to disintegrate or crack in hot sunlight. Water thinned paints; They are generally permeable to moisture and can be applied to surfaces which are not perfectly dry, allowing them to dryy out through the paint. They are easier to apply but less durable than other paints. These paints include; «Lime wash; the cheapest finish is salked lime which has very little binding power and can often be brushed off with the hand. Non-washable distemper- this is chalk powder mixed with size (dilute animal glue) in hot water. It gives a flatt matt surface. It is cheap but when dry is easily rubbed off. Washable distemper, consist of an emusfied drying oil, glue or casein, with pigments and extenders. Washable distemper has a matt finish.Emulsion paints These are paints which are bound with emulsions of vinyl, acrylic and polyurethane polymers. They harden quickly and provide matt, sheen or lustre surfaces. They are tough more elastic and although permeable they are more resistant to wear and weather than washable distemper. Generally emulsions paints can serve as primer, undercoat and finsh coat. They are sometimes used as a primer and undercoats under oil based paints. Paints with special properties - Quick drying paints based on modified alkyd media, epoxy and polyurethane resins dry in one or two hours. - Water and chemical resistant paints these include chlorinated rubber, bituminous, epoxy and polyurethane paint. Viny paints with special primers to secure adhesion are chemically resistant while being flexible and tough in sufficient number of coats. - Fire retardant paints they retard ignition and spread of flame over surfaces they are available as oil bound and water borne finishes. - Fungus resisting paints contain fungicides and may be required in bakeries, breweries and textile mills. Some fungicides are toxic to human beings. - Multi-colour paints contain globbules of colour which differ from the main paint and remain separate and float on surface. - Luminous paints-there are three main types; © Fluorescent paints- absorb ultra violet radiation and reemit visible light. © Phosphorescent paints- absorb energy and emit it as a visible light which continues to glow after the source of stimulation has been removed. «Radioactive paints- these are self-Iuminous, normally phosphorescent paints in which radio compounds activate phosphor.Painting on various backgrounds; In general backgrounds should be sound, even and dry. Moisture in backgrounds or trapped between surfaces and or between successive coats of paint, causes loss of adhesion and sometimes leads to blisters in the paint film. Impervious finishes should not therefore be applied on damp surfaces, Preparation Inadequate preparation of backgrounds is a common cause of defective paintwork, It is essential to brush down, scrap to remove dirt, dust, loose deposits of defective paint.oil and stains must be removed by suitable solvents. Surfaces should have sufficient ‘key’ for the type of paint which is to be applied-. Some proprietary washing solutions slightly etch surfaces and additional key can be provided by a chemical etching solution or by rubbing down with an abrasive. Previously painted surfaces; ° Surfaced fixed ironmongery, fittings, etc should be covered or removed before paintng. Water soluble paints should be removed, Other paints which have slightly chalked provide a good base and key, and one or two coats of new paint could restore their original condition. Small defects can be “brought forward” by priming, filling and rubbing down so that the surface is brought into one plane. Old paints are removed by; - Burning off this involves softening paints with a blow lamp and scraping Solvent and chemical removers an oil binder is most easily softened, water thinned oo ° paints with low oil content less readily and chemically cured resins are difficult to remove, Steam stripping- softening with steam, followed by scraping is the only economical way to remove some paint systems and varnishes. Painting on wood work Moisture causes loss of adhesion and blisters and therefore the moisture content of timber should not exceed 18%. The following procedure should be followed to obtain first class paint finish on timber; Repair- large knots and otherdefects should be cut out and holes pluggedwith wood. Nails shoud be punched below surface. Rub down with a fine glasspaper In the direction of the grain. " Dsut off sound* Wash with white ‘alvent oily woods Such as teak should be washed with a solvent such as Knot: resin tends to discolour paint. Two thin coats of knotting( shellac in methylated spirit) must be applied to knots and any other resinous parts of softwoodsto prevent staining. Seal to prevent absorption apply two priming coats — the first well thinned- the application of a thin coat of a long oil oleo- resinous varnish. Prime-emulsion primers based on acrylic polymers have the advantage of quick drying freedom from toxic pigments and durability. — aluminium primers have alkyd or oleo Tesinous medium which adhere well. They seal against bleeding of resins in softwoods dispensing with the need for shellac knotting. Stop — all cracks, nail holes and similar should be stopped with a proprietary hard stopping, or with a putty applied and finished with a knife. Fill- to provide a first class smooth surface, free from irregularities, a filler is applied with a broad knife. Gypsum plaster or water soluble cellulose based fillers are satisfactory. Flat down with a suitable abrasive. Apply undercoats at least two, for good quality work externally and internally * Flat down undercoats. Apply finishing coats- externally and for superior quality finishes, greater durability is obtained by applying two coats of finishing type paints. Metals. Metals often require to be protected from corrosion. Grease and fluxes which are often present should be removed. Ferrous metals preparation Mill scale and tightly adhering rust on pitted surfaces should be removed by grit or shot blasting, or in a factory by acid pickling. Less serious rust, mill scale and oil paint can be removed by hand or power tools or by flame cleaning with oxyacetylene or butane gas followed by brushing, Pickling is effective in the factory but use of pickling jellies is not recommended on the site where phosphoric acid washes are ideal. Priming;The first coat of systems such as zinc-rich and coal tar epoxy paints, should be applied immediately the background has been prepared. Condensation and any form of moisture will lead to corrosion if trapped in the paint film.a second primer coat should be applied where there are specially corrosive conditions. Rust inhibiting primer such as calcium plumbate, zinc chromate and wash or etch primers based on PV butyl resins and phosphoric acid are essential. Undercoats and finishes — must be suited to the prime r coat as well as the conditions of exposure. Example include; Oil modified alkyd, Exterior aluminium pigmented bituminous and coal tar with bituminous aluminium finish, etc. Chlorinated rubber, vinyl, two pack epoxy and two pack polyurethane coatings are resistant to severe chemical attack. Procedure on new plaster0; The following steps should be followed; Scrape plaster and mortar splashes carefully Rub down to remove irregularities, Dust down to remove dust and any efflorescence, Make good and stop with plaster of the same mix ass that used for surfaces as a whole Prime — apply a coat of alkali resisting primer on alkaline surfaces.