2B°36 Engine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, L and M madels) 20.4 Remove the clutch switets 20.54 Remove the pivot serew locknut 20.50 ...undo the pivot screw 2050 _and remove the clutch lover and pivot bushing Master cylinder overhaul 4 Flemove the clutch switch from the master cyinder (seo Hlustration). 5 Remove the lecknut from the lover pivet scrow, then remove the screw (see Wlustrations). Remove the lever and pivet bushing (s¢e illustration). Squonze the hose clamp and slide & down the fluid feed hose, then disconnect the hose from the master cylinder fitting (see ilustration). 4 2054 Clutch hydraulic system details 1 Reservoircap 20 Pivot scraw 2 Rewiner fecknut 3. Blophragm 21 Pwot bushing 4 Fluid reservoir 22 Pushrod 5 Fiuid feed noso 23 Rubber boot 8 Rubber cap 24 Snap-ring 7 Shapaeig 25 Washer 8. Fluid food fiting 26 Master cylinder 3 Oring body 10 Banjo bolt 27 Phot screw HY Sealing washers 29 Clutch lever 12 Upper tats 29 Lower uid nose hose 30 Bleed valve 18 Spang 81 Slave cylinder 14 Primary cup ‘piston 15 Piston 32°Piston sea! 16 Clamp bolts 33 Spring 17 Clamp 94 Stave cinder 18 Clutch switch booy serew 35 Engine sprocket 19 Guten switen coverEngine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, Land M models) 2Be37 20.8 Remove the rubber cap, snap-ring, uid feed fitting and O-ring 7 Remove the rubber Boot and pushrod from the master cylinder (see illustration). § Remove the snapring and washer, then ‘ump ou the piston complete with secondary up, primary cup and spring (see istrationa). ithe piston won't come out, iow campeessad ai into the fi ine hole Warning: The piston may shoot A out fercefully enough to couse Injury. Point the open end of the master cylinder at a block of wood or a pilo of rags Inside 2 box and apply air pressure gradual. Never point the end of the cylinder at yourself, including your fingers. 4 Remove the rubber grommet from the bore around the tid foe fitting. Remove the frap-ring, it the fiting out and remowe the Oma. 10 Thoroughty clean al ofthe components in tiean brake ‘uid (don't use any type of petoieum-Dased solvent) 11 Check the piston and eylinder bore for ‘wear, seratches and rust. Hf the piston shows these conditions, replace It and both rubber fps as a sat. I! the cylinder boro has any Selects, replace the entre master cylinder. 12 instal the spring inthe cyinder bore, wide sd frst. 13 Coat a new primary cup with brake tka sna natal tin the cyindler, wide end Hirt. 14 Coat the piston and secondary cup with bake fd and install them in the cylin. 15 install tho washer, Press the piston into the bore and instal the snap-ring to hold It in place. Maka sura the snap-ring seats securely hits groove, 16 Ital tre ruber boot and pushrod 17 When you instal the ten lever, align the hale in the bushing with the pushrod, Tighten the lever pivat screw and its locknut to the torquns listed in this Chapter’s Specticaions. {8 install a now Oxing in tho fad food fing {ero Install the iting, secure withthe snap- fpg and push the rubber cap into position. Master cylinder installation 19 Installation Is the reverse of the removal ‘eps, with the following additions: ) Make sure the UP mark on the master cylinder clamp is upright (see ilustration). 20.7 Remove the rubber boot and pushrod oom 20.8 Rlomovo the washer, piston, primary ‘cup and spring 2) Hycu're working on a Jor K mode, tite the mastor eye to place the luich favor downward a fares posabl, 50 swon' tke tho faring or the insiment cluster Warning: ifthe lever touches the A fairing or instrument cluster while the bike is Boing operated, the slutch might disengage unexpectedly, loading tots of contro! of the motorcycle. <2) you te working on do OF M mod, ‘alge the lower corer ofthe mastor Cynder font section with the punch mark in the panctobar (seo iustration 20:39) <) Tighten tho elemp bolts te the torque fstod in tis Chaptar’s Spacicatons. Tighten the upper camp Bot fst. han the lower one. if theres smal gap at 20.20 Loosen the banjo bolt only if the slave cylinder will be removed completely ‘A Mounting bolts Bleed valve 8 Barjo bolt cap 20.82 Remove the snap-ring from the end of the master cylinder ‘20.19 The UP mark on the master cylinder ‘clamp must be upright the botiom between the clamp and the master cyliador, don't try to close it by further tightening. .0) Uso-2 new seating washer on each side of the bani kot Mtting and tighten the Banjo bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications 1. Fil and bleed the master cylinder ae described bolow. Operate the clutch and check for id leaks, Slave cylinder removal 20 I you're removing the slave cylinder for overhaul, loosen the banjo fitting bolt while the slave eytinder is stil mounted on the engine (see illustration). if you're just removing it for access to other components, eave the hydraulic ine connected, 21 Remove the mounting bolt and take the Slave cylinder off (see illustration}, 20.21 Take the slave cylinder otf the ‘engine sprocket cover2B*38 Engine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, L and M models) 20.24 Remove the piston and detach the ‘spring 22 It you're removing the slave cylinder for Overhaul, remove the banjo fitting bolt and detach the hydraulic ine, Place the end of the line in a container to catch dripping Fuld Caution: Brake fluid will domage paint. Wipe up any spills immediately and wash the area with soap and water. 23. the hydraulc lines still connected, push the piston as far Into the bore as it will go. Hold the piston in, slowly squeeze the clutch lever to: the handlebar and tie the elutch levor In that position. Otherwise, the slave cylinder piston wil fail out. Slave cylinder overhaul 24 Let the pressure of the siave cylinder spring push the piston out of the cylinder, then remave the spring (soe illustration 20.54 and the accompanying illustration), 25 Separate the spring from the piston. 28 Thoroughly clean all parts in clean brake fluid (don't use any type of petroleun-based solvent 27 Check the cylinder bore: anc piston for wear, scratches and corrasion. If the piston shows these conditions, replace it and the seal as a set. If the cylinder bore has any etects, replace the entire slave cylinder, If the piston and bore are good, carefully reenove the seal from the piston and instail a ‘new one with the lip facing into the bore, 21.2 Look for matchmarks on the shift lever and shaft (arrows) Slave cylinder installation 28 Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure with the follewing additions: -8) Use new sealing washers on the clutch uid line and tighten the banjo bolt to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Spectlications 1b) Bleed the clutch (eee below) 2) Operate the clutch and check for fluid fake, System bleeding 29. Support the bike securely upright 30. leméve the master cyinder reservoir cap, retainer and diaphvagm. Top up the reserva with fluid to the upper lovl line 31 Remove the cap from the bleed valve on the slave cylinder (see llustration 20.20) Place a box wrench (ing spanner) over the bleed valve, Attach a nudbor tube to the valve fitting and put the other end of the tube in a container. Pour enough clean brake fluid into the container to cover the and of the tube. 32 Slowly squeeze the clutch lover savaral times, At the same time, tap-on the clutch fluid line, starting at the bottom and working your way 10 the top. Stop when no more: air bubbles can be seen rising from the battom of the reservar 34 Squeeze the clutch lover saveral times unl yeu feet an increase in the effort required to pul he lever, then hoid it in 34 With the lever held in, quickly open the bleed valve to let air and fiuld escape, than closo it 35 Repeat Steps 33 and 34 unt there aren’ any more bubbles ia the fut flowing Into the Container. Nate: Keap an eye on the fluid feval In the reservoir. tit drops too law, air wil be ‘sucked into the line and the procedure will hiave t0:b9 done over. 36 Replenish the reservoir with fluid, than reinstall he cfaphragm, retainer and cap. 37 Disconnect the rubbar tube from the valve fitting, clean up:any brake thid spils and put the cap back on the bleed valve. os Pi 21 External shift mechanism — removal, Inspection and instalation Shift pedal and rod Removal 1 Support the bike securely upright. 2 Look for alignment marks on the end ofthe ‘shift lever and shit shaft (sae illustration), ‘hey aren't visible, make your own marks wih sharp punch, 3 Remove the shit lever pinch ott and se ‘the love off the shaft (see illustration) 44 The shift pedal is removed together with the 'ider's footpeg on the left side of the ico (one ‘Chapter 8, Installation and adjustment 4 Install the shift pedal (1 removed) and ‘ighten its bolt to the torque listen Chapter '® Specifications. ‘6 Sip the shift lever onto the shan, aligning ‘the match marks. Install the pinch Bolt and tighten it eocurely, 7 Loosen the locknuts on the shift rod. Note: The locknut ciosest to the knurled partion of the shift rod has loft-hand threads. Turn ‘eockwise te loosen. Tum the rod 80 tbe shit fevers are at right angles to the rod. If you're ‘working on a.d-or K mod, tho silt pedal pad should be approximately 30 mm (1.2 inch) below the top of tho foctpeg (see lMlustration). If you're: Working on an L or M ‘model, the canter of the shit pocal shod be even with the centerline of the shift rod (see ‘Mlustration) External shift linkage Removal 9 It you're working on ad or K model, remave the engine (soe Section 5), GI you're working on an L or M medel, 21.3 Remove the bolt and slip the lever off the shaftEngine, clutch and transmission (749 ec J, K, Land M models) 2Be39 2i.7a Shit pedal datalle (J and K models) 21.7b Shift pedal details (L and M models) A Shift pode! pad E Conteriine of shit rod 4 Shift lover 4 Footpeg 8 Shift lever F Shift peaal pod intersects 2 Pedal hight (measured — § Knurled portion © Shift lever at right angie to ‘canteriine ef shift roa fam top of feotpeg) © Lecknuts ‘shift rod © Locknut 3 Shift rod 7 Red length D Shift rod remove the left lower fairing panel (seo ‘Chapter 8) and the engine sprocket (seo ‘Chapter 8). 10 Remove the water pump (see Chapter 3) 11 Position a drain pan under the shift mechanism cover. Remove the shift 21.113 Remove the cover bolts and screws: (arrows) . 21.114 ...and remove the gasket... mechanism cover bolts and Philips screws, then remove the cover, gasket and dowels (cee ilustrations), 12 It t's necessary to remove the shift drum cam, remove is Allen bol nd take off the shift Grum {860 Mustrations). The external shit 1H. Knurled portion mechanism can be removed with the shift drum ‘eam in place: to-do this, pull the shit mechani {arm aay fromm the shift crum so its points clear the shift drum cam (sae illustratien), 43 Pull the mechanism and shant off (see iMlustrations) Ait. (which has an O-ring)2Be40 Engine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, Land M models) 21.12... take off the shift drum cam... 21.120 Pull the shift arm in the direction of 1. 21.19, .. and take the external shift the arrows: to clear the shift drum cam linkage out of the crankcase Caution: Don’t pull the shift rod out of the crankcase - the shift forks will fall out ét position, and the crankcase will have to be Separated to reinstall them. 44 Unhook the spring from the gear positioning lever. Ramove the lever bolt and take off the lever and the collar behind It (ee ittustrations). Inspection 15 Remove the snap-ring, bushing and rata spring from the shift mechanism (se6 Imustration). Ushook the paw springs, noting the direction they face (see illustration), 21.14 . . .and remove the gear positioning lever and its collar 21.182 Romove the snap-ring, bushing and return spring from ‘one end of the shift shaft, and the collar and shift arm from the: 21.15b The shift arm springs must be attached with the open ‘other end ‘ends facing in the proper directionEngine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, Land M models) 2Be41 16 Chock the shift shaft for bends and damage to the splines, if the shaft is bent, you can attempt to straighten it, but if the spines. are damaged it will have to be replaced, 47 ‘Check the condition of the return springs and the paw! spring, Replace them if they are ‘racked or distorted, 18 Chock the shift mechanism arm and the aversnift miter for cracks, distortion and wear If any of these conditions are found, replace the shift mechanism, 49 Make sure the return spring pin kent loose (eee ilustration). If, unscrew i, apply 9 non-hardeaing locking compound to the iteeads, then reinstall it and tighten it securely. 20 Check the condition of the seals and the shift pedal bearing in the cover (see ilwstration). tthe seats have been teaking or the bearing is worn oF damagud, drive them aut wth a hammer and punch. New seals ean te installed by detving them in with a socket. Caution: The bearing should be installed with a shouldered drift that fits the inside ef the bearing exactly you don’t have the proper fool, have the bearing replaced by a Kawasaki dear Installation 21 Assemble the external shift mechanism Install the two small pawl springs so their 21.26 Apply sealant to the crankcase seam ‘areas {arrows}, then install the gasket 21.19 Check the retum spring pin for looseness hock onde wil point eutward (away from the ‘engine) when the extemal shit mechanism is installed (seo iHustration 21.12d). 22 Wf tho shit drum cam was removed, instal its dowel pin, Insta the shift deum cam over the dowel pin, then install its Allen bolt and tighten if the torque ised in this Chaptors Specifications. 23 Lubricate the Inner end of the shift shaft land slide the external shift mechanism into place. Pull back the sift mechanism arm 30 its points cleor the shift drum. Make sure tho legs ofthe retum spring are on either side of the pin 224 Install the gear positioning lever and its um spring, Be sure to instal the collar hohind tho lover with its narrow diameter facing away from the engine, so the lever wit fit aver. Apply non-harcening thread locking ‘Agent to the threads of the batt and tighten it to. the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications, 25. Apply high-temperature grease fo the ps ‘ofthe seals. Wrap the spines of the shift shaft with electrical tape, 20 the splinas. won't ‘damage te sais as ine covers insted. 26 Apply a thin coat of RTV sealant to the ‘cover mating eas on the crankcase, wharo the halves of the crankcase join, then install the gasket (see illustration). .27 Don't forget the rubber damper that 900s in the cover 21.20 Replace the bearing and seals in the cover if they're worn or damaged 27 ‘Make gure tho rubber damper I in place Inse the cover (see illustration) 2B Make sure the washer is in place on the fend of the extemal shift mochanism (eee itlustration 24.430). Install a naw O-ring on the upper cover dowel and install both dowels ln the crankease (see Mustrations 21. and 21.11, 29 Carefully guide the cover into place. Apply on-hardening thread locking agent to the threads of the uppor front bolt and the two Philips screws, Install the serows and bolts, tightoning tham evenly to the torque settings listed in this Chapter's Specifications (the bolts and screws have different torque settings. 30. The remainder of installation isthe reverse Of the removal steps. 31. Check the engine oll level and add some, itnecessary (see ‘Daily (pro-nde) checks) 22 Crankease - s disassembly and reassembly 1 To examine and repair or replace the crankshaft, connecting rods, bearings, transmission components and altemator ‘shatl/starter motor clutch, the crankcase must ‘be spilt into two parts, Disassembly 2 Remove the engine from the motorcycle (e80 Section 5). 3 Remave the carburetors (see Chapter 4). 4 Romave the water pump (see Chapter 3). 5 Remave tho pickup coil (sae Chapter 5) 8 Remove the clutch (see Section 19) and the alternator chain (see Section 27), Remave the cower from the extemal shift mechanism (te ‘Section 21). T If you're gaing to remove the alternator shaft, remove the alternator (see Chaptor 9) and the alternator coupling (sae Section 27),2Be42 Engine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, Land M models) @ Grankease lower bolts 22.146 Crankease upper baits 1 ammbots 3 Radiator bracket 4 Lowar crankcase 1 amm oars 2 6mmbots 2 6mm bots Support brackets 8 11 the crankcase is’ being saparated 10 any remaining components that attach the cast in the erankcasa halves (eee remove tho crankshaft, emove the eyinder Upper and lower halves of the crankcase Mustration head, cylinder block and pistons (see Sections 10, 12.and 14). 9 Remove the oll pan and engine sprockat ‘cover (see Section 16 and Chapter 6) 40 Check carefully fo make sure there aren't ‘The crankcase bolt numbers are cast in the crankcase lorrow) together. 11 Remove the 6 mm crankease bolts (eo iWustrations). Remove the remaining crankcasa bolts in the reverse order of the tightening sequence. The bolt numbers. are 22.12 Lift the lower crankcase half aff the upper half 42. Carafully pry the crankease apart and it the lower half off the upper half (see Mustration) Caution: Don't pry against the mating surfaces or they'll develop leaks.Engine, clutch and transmission (749 ce J, K, L and M models) 2Be43 22,194 There's a dowel at the cam chain end of the crankshaft... ‘2.13 Remove the oll nozzle and its ‘O-ring 13 Remove the throe crankcase dowels, the cl nazzie and its O-ring (see Wlustrations), 14 Rotor to Sections 23 through 32. for information on the intoral componants of the crankcase, Reassembly 15 Remove all races of sealant from the crankcase mating surices with a sharpening Bone or similar tol (see llustration). Be curtl not to lat any fll Into the caso ns this Scone and be careful not to damage:the rating surlaces. #8 Check tm 18 Suro the three dowel pins PR | 22.198 Apply silicone sealant to the crankcase mating surfaces 22.13 and at the seal end 22.15 Remove all traces of sealant from tha ‘mating surfaces with a sharpening stane are in place in their holes in the mating surface ff the upper crankcase half (see llustrations 22.130, 22,13 and 22.19). Install the oil Nozzle with a new O-ring (60 illustration) 17 Make sure the cam chain is installed on the crankshaft sprocket. 18 Pour some engine olf over the transmission gears, the crankshaft main bboarings and the shift drum. Don't get any oll fon the crankcase mating surface, 18. Apply a thin, even bead of silicone sealant to the indicated areas of the crankcase mating surfaces (see illustrations). Caution: Don’t apply an excessive amount 22.16 Install the oil nozzle and a new: O-Fing of seafant, as it wil oaze out when the case halves are assembled and may obstruct oll ‘passages. Don't put sealant on the ends of the main bearing shots. 20 Check the position of the shift drum — make sure it's in the neutral position (see Section 22}. 21 Carefully place the lower crankcase hall Onto the upper crankcase half. While doing this, make sure the shift forks ft into their gaar groaves (see Section 32). Make sure the crankshaft end seal is positioned property When the case halves are mated (see Mastration). ‘22.106 Apply sealant to the shaded areas2Be44 Engine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, L and M models) 22.21 The orankease end seal should be installed like this when the cases are assembled ‘22 install the lower crankease hat! bolts and tighten them so they are just snug. Nota that four af the bolts secure the support brackets for the radiator mounting: bracket (eae illustration), 23 Tighten the largor crankcase bolts (8 mm}, in the numbered sequence cast in the crankcase, to half of the torque listed in this Chapter’s Specifications. Then go through the sequence again, tightening the 8 mm bolts to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications. 24 After tightening the 8 mm bolts, tighten the 6 mm bolts to the torque listed in this Chapter’s Spacifications. 25 Turn the transmission mainshatt and output shaft to: make sure they tuen freely, ‘Also make sure the crankshaft turns trealy 26 The remainder of instaliation is the reverse: of removal 23,1 Squeeze the hose clips and slide them down the hoses, then detach the breather assembly trom 22.22 Four of the crankease bolts also secure the support brackets for the radiator mounting bracket 23 Crankcase components - Inspection and servicing 8 1 Separate the crankcase and remove the follow {@) Crankshaft and main bearings ) Transmission shafts 9} Shift arum ana forks @ Transmission of pipo 9) Starter cluten 1) Groather assembly (see illustration) 2 Clean the crankcase halves thoroughly with now solvent and dry them with compressed air. All oll passages should be blown out with compressed air and all traces of old gasket sealant should be removed trom the mating surfaces. Caution: Be very careful not to nick or gouge the crankcase mating surfaces or ‘the engine foaks will result. Chock both crankcase sections very caretully for cracks and ether damage. ‘9 Check the ball bearings in the case (see illustration). If they don't tum smoothly, ceive thom out with a Bearing driver or a socket having an outside diameter slightly smaller than that of the bearing outer race. Betore installing thom, allow them to sit in the freeze ‘overnight, and about fittean-minutes before installation, place the-case hai in an en, 3 to about 200°F, and allow it to heat up. The bearings are an interference fit, and this wil ease installation. ‘Waring: Before heating the cast, wash it thoroughly with soap and water 30 no explosive fumes are present. Also, don't use a flame to heat the case. 4 If any damage is found that, can't be repaired, replace the crankeasa halves as a eat "28.8 Replace the ball bearings in the case Hf they're loose, rough ‘ornoisy:Engine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, Land M models) 2Be45 as ee eee eee general note. 41. Even though main and connecting rod bearings are generally roplaced with new anes during the engine overhaul, the old bearings should be retained for clase examination as they may reves! valuable information about the condition ot tne engine. 2 Bearing failure occurs mainly because of lack of lubrication, the presence of dit or other foreign particles, overioading the enpine andlor Contaion. Regardless of the cause of bearing failure, it must be corected before the engine is reassembled to prevent it trom happening again. When examining the bearings, remove tho rain Bearings trom the case halves and the rod bearings from the connecting rods and caps and lay thern out on a clean surface in tho samo general position as their location on the crankshait joumals. This will enable you to match any noted bearing problems with the Comesponding side of the-crankshatt jou, 4 Dir and other foreign particias get into the engine in a variaty of ways. It may be left in the engine during assembly ot it may pass through fters or breathers. It may get into the il and from there into the bearings. Metal ‘hips from machining operations and normal engine wear are often present, Abrasives are sometimes laft in engine components after reconditioning operations. such as cylinder honing. especially when parts are not thoroughly cleaned using the proper cleaning ‘methods. Whatever the source, these foreign ‘objects often end up imbedded in the soft bearing material and are easily recognized, Large particles will not imbed in the bearing ‘and will score or gouge the bearing and Journal. The best prevention for this cause of bearing falure Is to clean all ports. thoroughly ‘and keep everything spotiesaly clean during engine reassembly. Frequent and regular oil nd fiter changes are also recommended, Slack of lubrication or lubrication breakdown has. a number of interrelated causes. Excessive heat {which thins the oi). overloading (which squeezes the oil from the bearing face) and oll leakage or throw of (rom excessive bearing clearances, worn ol pump or high engine speeds) all contribute to ubrication breakdown, Blocked oll passages wil also starva a bearing and destroy it. When fsck of lubrication is the cause of bearing failure, the bearing material is. wiped or extruded from tho steel backing of the bearing. Temperatures may increase to the point where the steol backing and tho journal {um bive from overheating 6 Riding habits can have a definite effect on ‘bearing lta, Full throtta low speed operation, ‘or lugging (laboring) the engine, puts very high loads on bearings, which tend to squeeze out {he all film. These loads cause the bearings to flax, which prodices:fine’ cracks in the 26.4a Lift the crankshaft out of the rankease, together with the cam chain bearing face (taligue failure). Eventually the bearing material wil loosen in pieces and tear away from the steel backing, Short trip driving leads to corrosion of bearings, as insufficient engine heat Is produced to drive off the condensed water and corrosive gases produced. These praducts collect in the ‘engin ol, forming acid and sludge. As the oil is Carried to the engine bearings. the acid attacks and corodes the bearing material. 7 Incorrect bearing installation during engine assembly wil lead to bearing failure as weil, ‘Tight fitting bearings which leave insutficient bearing oil clearances result in oil starvation, Dirt of foreian particies trapped behind a bearing insert result in high spots on the bearing which lead to failure 8 To avoid bearing problems, clean all pars thoroughty before reassembly, double chack ‘ll bearing clearance measurements and lubricate the new bearings with engine ‘assembly lube or moly-based grease during installation. 25 Crankshaft and & ‘main bearings — removal, s ‘inspection and installation Removal 1 Crankshaft removal is a simple matter lifting it out of piace once the crankcase has been separated (see illustration). Before removing the crankshaft check the endplay. Insert a fooler gauge between the crankshaft and the no. 2 crankcase main journal (see litystratien). Compare your finings with this Chapter’s Specifications. if the endpiay is both case halves must be 2 The main bearing inserts can be removed trom their saddles by pushing their centers to the side, thon iting them aut (see Hlusteation}. Keep the bearing inserts in order. The main bearing oi clearance should be checked, however, bofore removing the Inserts (eee Step 8}. Inspection 3 Mark and remove the connecting rods from the crankshalt (see Section 26). 28.18 Measure crankshaft end play with a feeler gauge between the no. 2 bearing ‘web and the crankshaft 4 Clean the crankshatt with solvent, using a rifle-claaning brush te serub oul the oll passages. H available, blow the crank dey with compressed air, Check tho main and Connecting rod journals tor uneven, wear, scaring and pits. Rub a penny across the Journal several times = f a journal picks. up Copper from the penny, It's too rough, Replace the crankshaft, 5 ‘Check the camshaft chain sprocket and the primary gear on the crankshatt far chipped teeth and other wear. if any undesirable Conditions are feund, replace the crankshaft (Check the chain as described in Section 28, 8 Check the rest of the crankshatt for cracks. and other damage, it should be magnalluxes to reveal hidden cracks - a dealer service department or motorcycle machine shop. will handle the procedure. 7 Set the crankshaft on V-blocks and check the runout with a dial indicator touching the Center main joumal, comparing your findings. with this Chapter’s Specifications. 1 the Tunout exceeds the limit, replace the crankshaft, Main bearing selection 8 To check the main bearing oil clearance, lean otf the bearing inserts (and reinstall them, if they've been removed from the casa) and lower the crankcshalt inta the upper half of the case. Cut five pieces of Plastigauge (ype HPG-1) and lay them on the crankshaft main Journals, parallel with journal axis ¢ hlustration), 25.2 Push the centers ofthe bearing inserts sideways and rotate them out of their webs2Be46 Engine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, Land.M models) 25.28 Lay a strip of Plastigauge along the bearing journal, paraliel tothe crankshaft centertine 8 Very carefully, guide the lower case half dewn onto the upper case half (see iiustration), instal the largo {@ mm) bolts andi tighten them, using the stages and sequence daseribed in Section 22. Don't rotate the crankshaft! 10 Now, remove the bolts and carefully Wt the lower case hail off, Compare the width of the ‘rushed Pastigauge on each jaumalto the scale printed on the Plastigaugo envelope to obtain the main bearing all clearance feee lustration) ta down your findings, then remove all traces cf Plastigauge from the jaumals, using your fingemall cr the exge of a Crect cava. 25.19 Measure the width of the crushed Plastigauge with the seale on the envelope 25.11 Bearing thickness is indicated by a ‘color code painted on the side of the ‘bearing. 11 If the: olf clearance falls into the range listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, ne bearing replacement is required (pravided they ‘a8 In good shape). If the clearance is more ‘than 0.036 mm (0.0014 inch), but fees than the service limit of 0,086 mm (0.0025 inch), place the bearing inserts with inserts that hhave biue paint marks (see illustration), then check the oll clearance once again, Always ‘replace all of the inserts at the same time, 12 The cloarance might be slightly greater than the standard clearance, but that doesn’t ‘matter, as long as it isn't greater than the ‘maximum clearance or less than the minienum ‘clearance. 13 Ifthe clearance is greater than the service limit listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, measure the diameter of the crankshaft journals with a micrometer and compare your fingings with this Chapter's Specifications. ‘Also, by measuring the diameter at a number of points around each journal's circumference, you'll be able to determine whether or not the journal js outeaf-round. Take the measurement at each ond of the Journal, near the crank throws, to determine the joumal fs tapered. 44 Hany main bearing journal has wom down past the service limit, replace the eranksha 25.15 Use the crankshaft marks. (Hornone)... ‘and BO NOT rotate the crankshaft 48H the diameters of the journals aren't lass than the serves limit but diftar from the original rharkings on the crankshatt (see imustration). apply ner marks with a hammer and punch. 11 the journal measures between 31.984 and 37.992 mm (1.2592 and 1.2595 inch) n't make any marks on the crankshatt (there shouldn't be any marks there, anyway). ifthe journal measures between 31,999 ‘and 82.000 mn (1.2596 and 1.2598 inch) make a 1 mark on the crank inthe area indicated (it's not already thera} 16 Remove the main bearing inzorts and assembie the case halves (see Section 22) Using a telescoping gauge and a micrometer, measure the diameters of the main bearing bores, then compare the measurements with the marks on the upper case hal (S00 IMustration) Ifthe bores measure between 35.009 fo 35.016 mm (7.3783 and 1.3785 inch), there shouldn't be any marks in the incicated areas Ifthe bores: measure between 35.000 and 35.008 mm (1.3778 and 1.3782 inch) there should be 2 © mark in the indicated areas 17 Usng the marks on the crankshaft and the 25.16 ‘crankcase marks (arrow) (0; oF here, no ment). in conjunction with the ‘shownEngine, clutch and transmission (749 oc J, K, Land M models) 2Be47 25.189. Make sure the tabs on the bearing inserts fit into the natehes In the wobs Marks on the case, determine the bearing sizes required by fefering to the accomp-anying bearing selection chart (see illustration) Installation 48 Separate the case halves once again. (Giwan the bearing sadcles in the case halves, then install the bearing inserts in all five of the: wobs in the case (see illustration). The bearing inserts for journals 2 and 4 have oll 9.00708 (S00 illustration). When installing the bearings, use your hands only — don’t tap them into place with a hammer. 25.21 The ribs.on the crankease end seal must seat in the case groove Crankshaft Main ‘Crankshaft Bearing Insert Journal Diameter Mark Sun Color | Part Number | Jounal Nos. 1 Brown | 92028-1628 1.38 82028-1631 24 i Back 92028-1627 1,45 None 92028-1630 2a ‘None Blue 2028-1628 136 92028-1629 24 19 Lubricate the bearing inserts with engine assembly hue or moly-based grease, 20 Install the connecting rods, i they wera removed (see Section 28) 21 Install a new crankshaft end seal at the ‘opposite end of the crankcase to the cam ‘chain sprocket (see iustration), 22 Install the cam chain on the crankshaft ‘Sprocket (200 illustration) 23 Caretully lower the crankshaft into place. 24 Assemble the case halves (see Sec> tion 22) and check to make sure the erank- shaft and tha transmission shafts tur freely 25.22 Be sure to drape the chain over the ‘crankshaft sprocket 25.18 The no. 2 and ne. 4 bearing inserts have oll grooves, (arrows) 26 Connecting rods and x bear inspection and installation Removal 1 Betore removing the connecting rods trom the crankshaft, measure the side clearance ot ‘each rod with @ feeler gauge (see illustration), IW the clearance on any rad is greater than that [sted in this Chapter’s Specifications, that rod ‘wit have to be replaced with @ new one. 26.1. Check the connecting rod side ‘clearance with-s fesler gauge28948 Engine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, L and M models) 26.2 Using a hammer and punch, make ‘matching number marks on the connecting rod and its cap 2 Using a center punch, mark the position of each rod and cap, relative to its position on ‘he cranshatt (see illustration) 3 Unscrew the bearing cap nuts (see. Mlustration), separate the cap from the rod, ‘then detach the rod from the crankshaft. if the cap is stuck, tap on the ends of the rod bolts. ‘with a softfaced hammer to free them. 4 Separate the bearing inserts from the rods. ‘and caps, keeping them in order so they can be reinstalid in their original locations. Wash the parts in solvent and dry them with ‘compressed air, if available, Inspection 5 Check the connecting rods for cracks and ‘ther obvious damage. Lubricate the piston pin for each rod, install tin the proper rod and check for play (see Illustration}. fit is loose, replace the connecting rod and/or the pin, Note: Connecting rods are grasted aecoraing to weight and installed 0 that the two rods at the left side of the énigine (no, 1 and na, 2) and the two rod atthe night side of tha engine (no. 3.and no. 4) ara the same weight grace, If rod Is replaced, make ure it maiches the weight grade of the rod it's paired with. 8 Refer to Section 24 and examine the onnacting red bearing inserts. if they are sored, badly scutted oF appear to have been Seized, new bearings must be installed. Always ‘replace the bearings in the connecting rods as a set. If they are badly damaged, check the corresponding ‘crankshaft journal Evidence of extreme heat, such #8 discoloration, Indicates thot. lubrication fiture has occurred, Be sure fo thoreughly check the olf pump and ‘pressure calif vaive as wall as ail ol! holes and passages before reassembling the engine. 7 Have the rods checked for twist and bending at a dealer service department or ‘othar motorcycle repair shop, Bearing selection 8B If the bearings and journals appear to: be in good condition. check the oil clearances as follows: 9 Start with the rod for the number one eylinder. Wipe the bearing inserts and tho ‘connecting fod and cap clean, using a lint- trea cloth, 10 Install the bearing inserts in the ‘connecting red and cap. Make sure the tab on the bearing engages with the notch in the rod orcap, Wipe oi the connecting red journal with a lint-free cloth. Lay a strip of Plastigauge (type HPG-1) across the top of the journal, paralel with the joural axis (see illustration 25.8), 12 Position the connecting rod on the bottom ‘of the journal, then install the rod cap and ruts, Tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications, but don't allow ail remove the 28.5 Checking the piston pin and ‘connecting rod bore fer wear 28.18 The marks. on the crank throws (arraws) should coincide with the diameters of the connecting rod journals connecting red and cap from the journal, being very careful not to disturb the Plastioauge. Compare the width of the ‘rushed Plastigauge to the scale printed in the Piastigauge envelope (see illustration 26.10) to dotermine the bearing oll clearance, ‘14 tthe clearance js within the range kstedin (Chapter's Specifications and the bearings are in pertect condition, they can be reused. I the clearance is more than 0.068 mm (0.0028- Inch) but less than the service lit of 0.10 mn (0.0088 inch), replace the bearing inserts with Ingorts that have tue paint marks, thon check the olf clearance ence again, Always replace all ofthe inserts at the same time. 18 The clearance might be slightly greater than the standard clearance, but that doesn't matter. as long as it isn't greater than the ‘maximum clearance or less than the mirimum clearance, 16 1 the clearance is greater than the service limit listed in this Chapter's Sposificatians, maasure the diameter of the connecting tod Journal with a micrometer and compare your findings with this Chapter’s-Specitications ‘Also, by measuring the diameter at a numbee of points around the joumat's circumference, you'll be able to determine whether or not the foumal is ut-of-round. Take the ‘Measurement at each end of the journal to etecmine if the journal is tapered. 17 If any journal has wor down past the service limit, replace the crankshatt. 48 I the diameter ofthe joumal ien't Hoss than the service limit but differs from the eriginal markings on the crankshatt (sae Wlustration) ‘apply new marks with a hammer and punch, It the journal measures tretween 53.584 ‘and 23.992 rom (1.3378 and 1.2382 inch) (don't make any marks on the crank: (thera shouldn't be one there anyway), I the journal measures tetween 33.999 ‘rd 4.000 ram (1.3983 and 1.3385 inch) ‘make a "0" mark on the erank inthe area indicated dt nat already tharo}. 19 Remove the bearing inserts trom the ‘connecting rod and cap, then assemble the ap to the rod, Tighten the nus to the torque sted in this Chapter's Specifications. 20 Using a telescoping gauge and a micrometer, measure the inside diameter of the connecting rod (see illustration). The mark on the connecting rod (if any) should coincide with the measurement, but it it sdoean't, make a new mark (see itustration), I the inside diameter measures between 37.000 and 37.008 mm (1.4867 and 41,4870 inch), don't make any ark on the rod (hare sitouldn't ba any thore anyway). I the inside diameter measures belween 37.005 and 37.016 mm (1.4570 and 31,4573 inch), make a Omark on the rod ft should already be there). 21 By referring to the accompanying chart (see illustration), select the correct connecting rod bearing insorts. 22 Repeat the bearing selection procedure for the rerriaining connecting rode.Engine, clutch and transmission (749 ce J, K, L and M models) 2B*49 28,20a Measure the diameter of the connecting rod with a telescoping gauge then measure the gauge o ° None Gon-Rod Big | Crankpin Bearing insert End Bore Dia- | Diameter meter Marking | Mark | Site Color | Pat Number ‘None ° Brown | 92028-1625 ‘None None Bleck | 92028-1628 92028-1623 26.21 . ., can be used, along with this chart, to determine the: ‘correct connecting red bearing inserts to install Installation 3 The connecting rod bots are designed to Stretch In use, For this reason, they must be teplaced with new bolts whenaver they're removed 2M Thoroughly clean the bolts, nut and ennecting rods with high-flach point solvent making sure to clean all of tho presarvative off ofnew parts, 25 Wipe off the bearing inserts and connecting rods and caps. Install the inserts Intothe rads and caps, using your hands only, making sure the tabs on the inserts engage veh the notches in the rods and caps, When lth inserts are installed, lubricate thom with engine assembly lube or moly-based grease. Dont got any lubricant on the mating surfaces fhe rod oF cap. 2% Assemble each connecting rod to its Bropar journal, making sure the previously applied matchmarks correspond to each ‘ther and the number casting points to the piimary gear end of the crankshaft (coe Mstration), Also, the letter present at the rod/eap seam on one side of the connecting fod [3 a weight mark. If new rods are being installed and they dor't all have the samo letter on them, two rods with the same letter should be installed on one side of the crank, land the letters on the ether two rods should match each other, This will minimize vibration. 27 Measure the length of each connecting rod bolt and write this number down, You'll ‘need it later to detarrine bolt stretch, 28 When you're sure the rods are positioned correctly, apply a flm of clean engine oil to the bolt and nut theads, under the heads of the bolts and to the surfaces of the nuts that ‘contact the connecting rod. Tighten the nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specitications. 28 Tighten the connecting rod nuts to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. Note: There aré different torque settings for ld anc now nuts. 30. Attor tightening, measure the length of the connecting rod bolts (seo illustration). Calculate the ditference between the original length (written down in Stop 27) and the length after tightening. The difference is bolt stratch, ft's more than the value listed in this Chapter’s Specifications, replace the bolts ‘ond nuts with new ones: '26.20b The letter on the crank throw iz a weight grade mark = the 0" mark (or lack of a mark, as shown here), next to the weight ‘grade letter, in conjunction with the mark an the crank throw . 26.26 Assemble the connecting rods with the number marks pointing toward the primary gear end of the crankshatt Caution: Don't skip this _step. Overstretched bolts may break while the ‘engino is running, causing extensive ‘engine damage, ‘31. Tum the rods on the exankshaft H any of ‘thom feel tight, tap on the bottom of the ‘connecting rod caps with a hammer ~ this ‘should relieve stress and tree them up. it doesn't, recheck the bearing clearance 32 As a final step, recheck the connecting fod side clearances (see Step 1}. i the clearances aren't corect, find out wiry before proceeding with ange sasembly. pase = 28.30 Measure connecting rod bolt length (1) after the bolts are tightened2B*50 Engine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, 27.3 Remove the lower tensioner’s Allen bolts and take the: tensioner off 27 Alternator chain ~ adjustment, removal, ingpection and installation 1 Remove the clutch (eee Section 19), Adjustment 2 The alternator chain can be adjusted if it's 4 Loosen the pivat bolt, set boll and locknut lon the upper chain tensioner (see ilustration). 27.8 Hold the tensioner piston mpressed and install the lowor ‘tensioner on the engine 27.103 Remove the snap-ring from the oil pump sprockat . a Land M models) 27.4 Loosen the pivot bolt (A), set bolt (B} and tocknut (C) and tighten the adjusting bolt (O) until the lower chain run is tight 5 Tum the adjusting bolt on the upper chai tensioner counterclockwise (anti-cloc until the lower run of the chain is tight. Then tighten the focknuf, the set bolt and the pivot bolt to the torques listed in this Chapler's ‘Spocifications. Release the laich on the with a serewdriver and push way in. Holding the pistan in thi install the lower tensioner (see illustration). ‘Apply @ non-permanent thread locking ag to the threads of the tensicnar Allen bol install them and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications. 27.8 Remove the set bolt and pivot bolt ‘and take the upper tensioner off ‘and the alternator driven sprocket...« Removal 8 Unbolt the upper chain tensioner and remove f trom the engine (see illustration). move the snap-rings trom the oll pump procket and alternator driven sprockel (s8e lustrations), Siide the alternator drive sprocket alternator driven sprocket and oll pump sprocket off their shafts, together with the chain (see iflustration) 27.9 Remove the Allen bolt and take the ‘oll pipe off 27.11 . .. slide off the sprockets and ‘chain...Engine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, Land M models) 2B*51 27.42 thon remove the chain guide 42 Tako the chain guide off the oil pipe boss {00 illustration}, 19. Side the thrust collar off the transmission shaft (see illustration). Inspection 14 Check the sprecket teeth for wear or damage, Check the drive pins in the alteriator die sprocket for looseness, wear or damage. Check the: chain for wear, damage or loose pins. Replace tha sprockats and chain as a fet it any defects are found. 48 Chock the oil pipe for clogging. Flush it wwith clean solvent and blow it out with ‘compressed air, if available, 16 Check the tansionar guides and the chain guide for score marks or excessive we: Replace the tensioners or the guide i defects me found. 27.43. Remove tho thrust collar trom behind the transmission mainshatt 17. Check the isch on the lower tensioner for woar or damage and replace the tensioner if defects are found, Instaltation 18 Install the alternator driven sprocket and secure’ with a new snap-ring. 40 Install the chain guide on the oil pipe ess, 20 Install a new O-ring on the oll pipe and ‘bush the cil pipe into position in the engine. ‘Apply non-permanant thread locking apent to. the threads of the oll pipe bolt, then install the, ‘bolt and tighten it to the torque listed in this ‘Chapter's Specifications, 21 Install the altemator chain over the ditven ‘sprocket. 22. Install the oll pump sprocket and secure it with a new snap-ring 23 Install tha thrust collar on tha transmission ‘shaft, then install the drive sprocket with its ‘wo pins outward (away from the engine), 24 Apply non-permanent thread locking agent to the threads of the upper chain tensioner pivot bolt and set bolt, then ingtall the tensioner and tighten the bolts ‘tight 25 Refer to Steps 4 through 6 above to ‘adjust chain tension and install the lower tensioner, 26 Check to make gure all of the altematar chain components are installed correctly before Installing the clutch (see illustration). ‘27.26 The chain and sprockets should Jock like this when they're assembled 28 Alternator shaft and ‘starter clutch - removal, Inspection and installation Alternator coupling removal 1 The alternator coupling can be removed wrth the engine in the frame, To remove tho alterator crveanatt or the starter cc, the tngine must be removed and the crankcases Gsasvembled 2 Remove the lower fet fairing panel (s00 ‘Chapter 8). 3. Remove the alternator and its damper (see Chapter 9). 4 Remove the alternator coupling bolt and washer and ide the coupling off the shatt splines (see illustrations). Note: Te keep the engine trom turning while you loosen the bovt, remove the pickup eal cover (to Chapter 8) land place & box wrench (ring spanner) over the Mats ofthe tng rotor. Caution: Bon't ty to keep the ongine from turning by tolding the timing retor Alfan bolt, rit may snap oft Alternator shaft and starter clutch removal 5 Perform Steps 1 through 4 above. 6 Remove the engine (see Section 5) 7 Separate the crankcase halves (Section 22}. 8 Remove the transmission shafts and the mission oil pipe (tee Section 30), 9 Remove the bearing holder trom the alernator shaft (see ilustration). v8 the Allen bolts and take off ‘the bearing holder2B¢52 Engine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, L and M models) 28.10 Pull out the idler gear shaft and tit ‘out the gear 28.118 Pull out the alternator ‘driveshatt andllft aut the starter elutch ‘and spacer 28.12 Hold the starter clutch and try to rotate the gear j ly 28.191 .. and take it off... «and the neadie rollor Dearing... 28.198 2B.A3h . then remove the one-way clutch race and one-way clutch from the ‘one-way clutch boss move the large snap-ring from ‘and remove the thrust washerEngine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, L and M models) 2B*53 28.18 Check the idler goar tor worn or damaged tevth sna or looseness on ts 28:18 The spacor and starter clutch fit on the alternator shaft like this 101 Pull out the later gear shaft and it out the lator goar (see illustration), 11 Pull out the alternator shaft and bearing, then lift out the starter clutch and spacer (see ustrations). inspection ‘Starter motor clutch {2 Hold the starter motor chitch and attsmnt 10 tum the starter motor cluich gear back and forth (see illustration). It should only tue in ore direction. 13 If the starter moter clutch turns feeely in both directions, or if it's locked up, disareembie It and inspect the components {see ilustrations). 14 Starler clutch assembly is the reverse of 28.17a Check the alternator shaft bearings for looseness, roughness or noise... 28.18b Place the starter clutch in the engine... the disassembly steps, Lubricate a parts with clean engine of during assembly. Apply non- ‘permanent thread locking agent to the threads ‘of the six Allen bolts and tighten them to the torque listed in this Chapter's Specifications Make sure the snap-rings seat seourely in thor grooves. Starter motor idler gear 15 lnapect the teoth on the starter motor idler gear for cracks and chips {see llustration). ‘Turn tha idler gear on its shaft to make sure It spins freely. if the idler gear exhibits any \undesieable conditions replace it Aitornator shaft and bearing 46 Check the spines on the shalt for wear oF damage. 47 Tum the bearings and feo! for tight spots there's one at each end of the shatt ‘28.180 ....and slide the alternator shaft partway in. - and roughness (see Illustrations). if the Condition of the bearings isin doubt or definitely bad, replace thom. Te replace the bearing ‘mounted in the case, refer to Section 23. Installation 18 Place the starter clutch in the case and slice the aitemator shaft in (see illustrations). 19 Position the ‘die gear In the case, Lubricate its shaft with clean engine oil anc sido it into the case and gear (see tustrations), 20 Tha remainder of installation isthe reverse: of the removal procedure. Be sure toil the cooling system with the proper coolant mixture and the crankcase the recommended engine oil (see Chapter + and Daly (ore-ride) checks) 28.18d ... then install the spacer and push the alternator shaft the rest of the way in 28,198 Pasition the idler gear in the ‘and install its shaft ‘28.19 The idler gear should mesh with the starter clutch like this when installed2B*54 Engine, clutch and transmission (749 ec J, K, Land M models) 29.9 Remove the Allon bolt and O-ring and lit the tensioner aut eytinder block removed for clarity) 29 Camshaft chain and guides ~ removal, inspection and inslallation 3 Chain guides 1 erowe the camshafts (soe Section 9 2 Torwmove the front (exhaust side) guide, lt i outot the engine (s0e ilustration 9-4a), 3 To remove the rear (intake side) chain ui, remove its Alen bot and O-ing and it the guid cut tee ilstration) 4'Chock the guides for deep grooves, Pink Leng _ 28.10 When checking the cam chain, measure the longth of 20 links cracking and other ebvious damage, replacing them if necessary, 5 Installation is the reverse of the removal steps, with the following adgitions: ) Make sure the trot guide fits securely in its siot (se0 illustration 9.80) ) Use a new O-ring on the rear guide's pivot bolt. Lubricate the O-ring with ‘engine oil and tightan the bott securely. Camshaft chain 6 Remove the engine (soe Section 5) 7 Separate the crankcase halves (Section 22). ‘8 Remove the crankshal (see Section 25), ind pull the oil pipe out of the: crankcase 90.32 Lift out the mainshatt ... 8 Ramove the chain from the crankshalt. 10. Puil the chain tight to oliminate all slack ‘and measure the length of twenty links, pin- to-pin (Seo illustration), Compare your indings to this Ghapter's Spectications. 11 Also check the chain for binding and obvious damage. 12 If the twenty-link length fs not as pacified, or there is visible damage, replace the chain, 19. Installation is the reverse of the removal steps. 30 Transmission shafts — removal and installation Removal 1 Remove the engine and clutch, then ‘separate the case halves (see Sections 5, 19 and 22). 2 If necessary. remove the Allen bolt and slide the transmission oll pipe out of the case {See illustrations), 3 The shafts can simply be lifted out of the Upper half of the case (see illustrations). i tay are stuck, use a soft-taced hammer and ‘gently tap on the bearings on the ends of the shafts ta free them, The shaft nearest the rear of the case is the ouipul shaft ~ the other ‘shaft fs the mainshatt 4 Refer to Section 91. for information ‘Pertaining to transmission shaft and ‘Section 32 for information pertaining to the shit drum and forks. Installation 5 Il tho oll pipe was removed, slide it back Inte: the case (see Mlustration). Apply na Permanent. thread locking agent to the threads of the oll pipe Allen bolt and tighton it to the torque listed in this Chapters Specifications.Engine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, Land M models) 2B°55. 30.5 Position the ol pipe in the crankcase ‘and install its Allen bolt Check 10 maki sure the set ping end rings ie presant in the upper case hal, where the shift bearings sea (se istration) 7 Carefully lower each shalt Into place. The roles inthe net Dearing outer races must engage withthe set pis, and the grooves in the Dal bearing cuter races must engage wth tha set rings (20s ihustration). 8 Place the gears in the neutral position (nee Bustration) 9 The remainder of Inetatation isthe reverse otremoval & & & Note: When alsassembiing the transmission ‘Suits, place the parts on a kong rod or theaad 31 Transmission shatts ~ disassembly, inspection and reassembly 30.8 The oil pipe should took like this. when installed; make sure the set pins and half-cirele bearing retainers (arrows) are in position wire through them to keep them in order and facing the proper directicn (see Haynes Hint in Part 2A). 1 Remove the shafts from the case (see Section 30), Mainshaft Disassembly 2 Remove the needie bearing cuterrace, then remove the snap-ring from the ond of the shaft and slide the needia bearing off (sae iMlustrations). 3. Remove the thrust washer and slide second (var off the shaft (see illustrations). 4 Remove sixth gear, its bushing and the toothed washer (see illustrations), 5 Ramove the snap-ring (see illustration). 6 Ramave the third/faurth gear cluster from 90.7 Engage the set pins with the holes in the bearing auter races 30.8 Place the gears in the neutral position {ike this s0 the shifting forks will engage the gear groaves (arrows) the shatt (see illustration), 7 Remove tho next snap-ring, then silde the washer, fith gear and its bushing off the shaft (see iiustrations) 31.2a Remove the outer race... 31.20... the-snap-ring.... 91.20 ...and the needle roller bearing ‘31.3a Remove the thrust washer... 91.9b ... and second gear ‘31.48 Remove sixth gear.2Be56 Engine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, L and M models) 1.40... its Bushir ‘31.8 Remove the snap-ring 31.6 Slide off the third/fourth gear cluste 81.7a Remove the snap-ring .. 91.7e ... fifth gear... 21.8 The ball bearing can be teft on the shart uniess it needs to be replaced: the shaft must be replaced if first goar is worn or 31.9 Measure the width of the shitt fork groove (A) and.check the damaged dags (8) for wear ar damage 31.7b ... the toothed washer . Inspection @ Wash all of the components in clean solvent and dry them off. Rotate the bal bearing on the shatt, testing for tightness, rough spots, excessive looseness. and listening for noises. (soe ilustration), Way of these conditions are found, replace the Dearing. This will require the use of a hyctraubec press ov a bearing pullar setup. If you don't Ihave access to these tools, take the shalt and bearing to a Kawasaki dealer or other ‘motoreyeie repair shop and have them press the old bearing off the shaft and install theEngine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, Land M models) 2B*57 91.11 Inspect the bushing (left arrow) in ‘gears so equipped for wear~ if the edges of the stots (right arrow) are rounded, replace the gear 31.42 Install the snap-rings so tho ‘opening in the ring is aligned with a spline ‘groove 1 Snap-ring opening 2 Spline groove 31.196 ... and do the same for the sixth ‘gear bushing 9, Measure the shift fork groove between thir ang fourth gears (see illustration), If tha roove width exceeds the figure listed In this Chapter's Specifications, replace the third! fourth gear assembly, and also check the third/tourth gear sh fork (see Section 32). 40 Check the gear toeth for cracking and H.13d The assembled mainshaft should Took like this other obvious damage. Check the bushing and surface in the inner diameter of fh and sixth gears for scaring or heat discoloration. either ane és damaged, replace it 11 inspect the bushings and dog hates on gears. 30 equipped for excessive wear or Founding off (see illustration), Replace the 34.13b Align the olf hole In the first gear bushing with the oi! hole in the shaft... paired gears as.a set i necessary. 42 Check the noodle bearing and race for ‘wear of heat discoloration and replace them it necessary. Reassembly 13. Reassembly is the basically the reverse of the disassembly procedure, but take note of ‘the follawing points: @) Always use new snapsrings and align the ‘opening af tho ring with a spline groove (see illustration). 1b) When instaling the bushings for fith and sixth goars to the shaif, ign the of hole {in the shaft with the oil hale in the bushing Ieee illustrations) ) Lubricate the components with engine of before assembling them. ) After assembly, check the gears to make sure they're installed correctly (see hystrations). LEELA LLL LEA ra i oS PR 1 Bearing outer race 8 2 Snap-nng 6 3. Neodie bearing ? 4. Thrust washer 8 31.13e Mainshatt details Second gear 9 12 Waster Swetn gear 10 Thirafourth gear 13 Fifth gear Bushing cluster 14 Fist gear/mainshaft Washer 11 Snap-ing 15 Bail bearing2B*58 Engine, clutch and transmission (749 ce J, K, L and M models) 31.16 Hold thied gear (B) and spin the shaft rapidly with one hand while trying to slide fifth gear (A) off with the other Output shaft Disassombly 14 Remove the needle bearing outer race (see illustration) 15. Slice the needle bearing. washer and tirst (gear olf (see illustrations) 16 Remove fifth gear trom the shaft, Filth ‘gear has three steel balls init for the positive neutral finder mechanism. To remove the (9807, Grasp third gear and hold the shaft in a vertical position with one hand, and with the other hand. spin the shaft back and forth, 31.17a Romove the snap-ring ..» holding onto fitth gear and pulling up (see itustration) S4.A7e ... third gear... SA.ATd the thirdsfourth gear ‘Sunbine-:Engine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, L and M models) 2B*59 = ao : 31.194 Remove the snap-ring ... Caution: Don’t pull the gear up too hard or fast - the bolts will fly aut of the gear. 17 Remove the snap-ring, toothed washer, third gear, bushing and fourth gear from the shaft (see illustrations), 91.20 The collar and ball bearing can be ltt on the shaft unless worn or damaged 91.228 Align the oil hole in the second ‘gear bushing with the hole in the shaft ... 1.196 toothed washer ... 18 Remove the toothed washer, snap-ring and sixth goar {s00 ilhsstrations), 19 Remove the next snap-ring, toothed washer, second gear and its bushing (see llustrations). 20 The ball bearing and caliar can be loft on the shaft unless they need to-be replaced (see illustration) Inspection 21 Pieler to Steps 6 through 12 for the inspec~ tion procedures. They are the same, except wien checking the shift fork groove with ‘you'll be checking it on fith and sixth gears, Reassembly 22 Reassemnbiy Is the basically the raverse of the disassembly procedure, but take note of the following points: a) Always use new snap-rings and align the ‘opening of the ring with a spline groove (e00 illustration 31.13a), 31.2% for the third-fourth gear bushing BAB. . ind second gear ) When instaing the bushings for second, thc anc Yourth gears, ign the of hota in the bushing with the helen tha shaft (968 ‘nustrations} ©) Wien instaling fifth gear, don't use (9rease fo hold the Bats in place = to do 20 would impair the postive neutral findor ‘mechanism. Just s9t the bails in thair /hofes (the holes that thoy can't pass through), keep the goar in a vertical position and carefull set it on the shatt {engine oil wil help keep them in place) (s¢0 tlustrations), The sotine grooves that contain the holes withthe Balls must ‘be aligned with the slots i the shalt spline grooves. ) Lubseate the components with engine of botore assembling thom. 9) Afer assembly, chock the gears fo make sure they're instaled correctly (see ulustrations). ‘3H.22c Install the steol baits in the smaller ‘holes in the gear...2Be60 Engine, clutch and transmission (749 ce J, K, L and M models) 91.220... and align the stee! balls with the shaft slots (arrow) ‘when installing the gear 91.222 The assembled output shaft should look like this 91.221 Output shaft details 8 Snap-ring 18 Stee! bat 9 Toothed washer 16 Fitth goar 10 Fourth gear 17 Fist goar 17 Bushing 18 Thrust washer 12 Thee gear 19 Needie roler 13 Teothed bearing 20 Bearing outer race, LA } Ly Yet eS =< HH My TALLY pees anne oEngine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, Land M models) 2B*61 92.4 Remove the Allen bolt (arrow) and slide the shift rad rotainor out of the shift rod groove 32.60... then support the remaining shift fork and slide out the other shift rod 82.6c Install the shift forks back on their rads to ensure correct reassembly S28 .... then remove the shift drum trom ‘the case ‘Slide the shift deum bearing holder out of ‘the other shift rod groove Removal 1 Remove the engine and separate the crankcase halves (260 Sections 5 and 22), 2 Remove the transmission shatt assembsies {G00 Section 30). 3 Remove the external shift mechanism (s00 Section 21). 4 Remove the shit rod retainer from the right side of the crankcase (see ilustration) 5: Remove the shift drum bearing holder (which also acts as a shit rod retainer) from the left skdo of the crankcase (see Blustration), 6 Slide out the shift rods and remove tho forks (see illustrations}. Reassembie the forks in their installed positions on the rods. 0 $2 Shift drum and forks - removal, i i and install 82.7 Pull the pin out of the shift drum $0 it won't be lost 82.9 Check the grooves in the shift drum for wear, especially at the points 42.60 Support'the shift forks and slide out {the shift rod . you will remember where they go (soe illustration), Tho two shift rods are interchangeable but should be returned to their original locations i they will be reused 7 Remove the dowel pin from the end of the shift crm (so itlstration). 8 Slide the shift drum partway out, remove the bearing and sli tho shit drum the rest of the way out (See illustrations) inspection 9. Check the edges of the grooves in the drum {or signs af excessive wear (see ilustration). Measure the widths of the grooves and compare your findings to this Chapter's ‘Specifications, 40 Check the shift forks for distortion: and wear, especially at the fork ears, (seo Iilustration), Measure the thickness of the fork ears and compare your findings with this (Chapter’s Specifications. I they are discolored [ie =) 28a Push the shift drum partway out and jemove the bearing x 32.10 Check the abit forks for wear and ‘damage, especially af the fork wars ened2B+62 Engine, clutch and transmission (749 cc J, K, Land M models) or severely wom they are probably bent. If damage or waar i evident. check the shi fork ‘roove in the corresponding gear as. well Inspect the guide pins and the shart bore for ‘txemesive wear and distortion and replace ary defective parts with new ones. 414 Gheck the shit fork ahats for evidence of swear, galing and other damage. Make sure the shit forks move smoothly on the shat. I the shatts are worn or bent, replace them with ew ones. 42 Hold the inner raco of the shift drum Dearing with fingers and spin the outer race. Roplace the Bearing if is rough, looee oF noisy. Installation 18. Lubeeate the shit drum with clean engine clland sid into the case (ee llustrations} 44 Install the shift drum bearing (seo Atustrations), then instal the dowel pn in tho ‘end of the shift drum (see illustration 32.7). 48 The remainder of ietaliation fs tha ravereo of remaval, noting the fobowing points: ‘@) Lubricate al parts with engine af Bofors inataling them 'b) Position the sift fork pins in the shift cru grooves. The pin on the shit fork with the shortest ears goes in the center _groave ct tho shit drum. Tre longar ens oF the two remaining shit forks face toward aach other. ©) Apply non-permanent thread locking: ‘agent to the treads ofthe shit rod retainer bot and tho Shit crus bearing holder bots. Tighten the bots o the lubricate its end (arrow) 32.149 Install the shift drum bearing torque listed in this: Chepter’s Specifications. ‘33 Initial start-up after overhaul Note: Make sure the cooling system Is checked caretully (especially the coolant level) before starting and nang the engine. 1 Make sure the engine cil level is correct, then remove the spark plugs from tho angina, race the enging il switch inthe Off postion and unplug the primary (low tension) wires from the cov. 2 Turn on the key switch and orank the agine ever with the starter until the oll pressure indicator light goes off (which indicates that ol pressure exists). Renstal the spark plugs, connect the wires and turn the ‘switch te On, 3 Make sure there Is fuat in the tank, then operate the choke. 4 Start the engine and aliow it to run at a rmexséritely fast idle until reaches operating temperature Warning: It the oll pressure indicator light doesn’t go off, or it comes on whife the engine is running, stop the engine immediately. 5 Check caretully for oll laaks and make sure: the transmission and controls, especialy the brakes, function propery belore road testing the machine. Refer to Section 34 for the recommended break-la procedure, 32.1% ... then slide the shift drum the rest of the way in 6 Upon complation of the road test, and after the ‘engine has cooled dawn completely, recheck the valve clearances (see Chapter 1) 34 Recommended break-in | procedure 1 Any rebuilt engine needs time to break-in even if parts have been instalked in thet original locations, For this reason, treat the machine gently for the first tevr miles te make Sure oll has circulated throughout the engine and any new parts installed have started tp seat 2 Even greater care is necessary If the engine has been rebored or a new crankshaft has eon installed. In the case of a reboro, the engine will have to be broken in as if the machine were naw. This means greater sa of the transerilssion and a restraining hand on the throttle until at least 500 miles (800 kin) have been. covered. There's na point in keeping 12 any set speed timit = the main idea. te hoes from lugging (laboring) the engine and 12 ‘gradually increase perfermance until the 500 ‘mile (800 fer) mark Is reached. These recommendations can be lessened to. aq ‘extent when only a new crankshaft is installed Experience is the best guide, since i's easy ta tell when an engine is running freely 3 Ifa lubrication fallure is suspected, stop the engine immediately and try to find the cause Wan engine is run without oll, even for a stort period of timo, ireparable damage will occur ‘982.14b The shift rods and forks should ook like this when assembledfeted rash ond peacape cnenovel sncanemence ‘Coolant reservoir - removal and installation Coaiing system draining, fushing and refiling General information , ‘Oil cooler — removal and installation Radiator - removal and installation Radiator cap ~ check ‘Thermostat = removal, check and instalation ‘Water pump ~ check, removal, inspection and instalation -- see Chaptor t 10 aan~ rave! when fy open). Jue specifications passage belts (J, K, {and M mace }ecoler hase union bolts (HT models) . ‘legoler bolt K. Land M octets) Fairy cifeuk, Ss. for competent ‘mechanic S| roe i Pre ctl =I ‘see Chapter 1 ‘see Chapter 1 0,96 to 1.24 Bara (14 to 18 psi) 80 to 84°C (176 to 183°F) 96°C (23°F) ‘Not less than 8 mm (5/16 inch) 18 Ne (13.t-ibs) 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs) 418 Ne (13 ft-lbs) 7.4 Nim (68 in-tos) 7:8 Nm (69 in-tbs) 98 Nim (87 in-tbs) 25 Nm (16 ftps) 149 Nev (36 ttl)32 Cooling systemCooling system 3¢3 The models covered by this manual are quipped with a liquid cooking system which uizes a water/antitreeze mixture to carry away excoss haat produced during the combustion process (see illustrations). The “Sfinders are surrounded by water jackets, _Prough which the cootant is elrculated by the “xalec pump. The pump is mounted to the left ‘02 of the crankease and is driven by the oil pump shaft. The coolant passes up through a Bible hese and a coolant pipe, which Sirbutes it around the four eyinders It ows. through the water passages in the cylinder hod, thraugh another pipe (ar hoses) and into “te thermostat housing. The hot coolant then flows dour into the racstor (hich ie mounted ‘the frame downtubes to take advantage of ‘maximum airflow), where itis coaled by the ‘passing air, rough anather hose and back to Se water puma, whore the cyce Is repeated, ‘An electric fan, mounted behind the Motorcycle is not moving. Under certain ions, the fan may come.on oven after the engine is stopped, and the ignition switeh {5 off, and may run for several minutos The coolant temperature sending unit, threaded into tha thermostat housing, senses, the temperature of the coolant and controts the coolant temperature gauge on. the Instrument cluster. Tho entire system is sealed and bressurized. The prossure is controlled by a valve which is part of the radiator cap. By Bressurizing the coolant, the boiling point ig raised, which prevents premature bolling of the coolant, An overflow hose, connected between the radiator and reservoir tank, directs coolant te the tank when the rackator cap valve Is opened by excessive pressure. ‘The:cooiant is at siphoned back to ‘he rackater as the engine eoois, Many cooling system inspection and Service procedures are considered part of outise maintenance and are included in Chapter 1 Warning 1: Do not aliow antifreeze to come in contact with Your skin or painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Antifreeze is highly foxic it ingested. Nover leave antifreaze lying around in an open container or in Budidles on the floov; children and pets are Attracted by its swoot smell and moy ering, it. Chock with focal authorities about disposing of used antifreeze. Many communities have coltection centers which wil 300 that anuioeze: ls cisposed of Warning 2: Don't remove the A ‘adlator-cap when the engina and fadiator ace hot. Scatding hot ‘coalant and stoam may be blown out under pressure, which cauid cause serfous infury. Yo open the radiator cap, place a thick rag, tho 0 towel, over the radiator Gap; slowly rotate the cap anti- ‘leckwise to the first stop. This procedure Aalfows any residual prossure to escope When the steam has stopped escaping, fBress down on the cap while tucning anth elockwise and remove it.3¢4 Cooling system 2 Radiator cap - check It problems such 29 overheating and loss of coolant occur, check the entire system as described in Chapter 1. The radiator cap ‘opening pressure should be checked by a eaier service department or service station supped wit the special tester required €2 do the job, If the cap is defective, replace it ‘with anew ene. 3. Coolant reservoir — removal and installation 41 Remove the right fairing panel (H models) or right sida cover (all others) (see Chapter 8). 2 Disconnect the hose(s) trom tha reservoir and drain the coolant inte a suitable container (see illustrations). it's a good idea to mark the positions of the hoses so they aren't attached to the wrong fitting when the reservoir is instalied, models) or mounting detach the reservoir trom the frame (see illustration). 4 Installation is. the reverse of the removal procedure,