Suggested Order of the build, read this before you start.

This is what | would do, you may want to do your own thing if you know what you are doing.

Insert the lowest components first, the wire links Followed by the transistor sockets or resistors iF
laying them flat to the board. You may find it better to stand the resitors upright and bend the leg
down so that they fit onto the board better. The only component that may get damaged by heat is
the transistor. So solder the sockets then plug the transistors in afterwards. Be aware that although
the other components wil withstand heat don't over do it. IF a solder joint isn't right first time you
can lert it cool down and try again.

Where a component has long legs bend the legs a little on the reverse so that they dont fall out when
you turn the board over. Another method is to hold the components with a little bit of sticky tape
until they are soldered in.

Turn the board over and solder the legs.

Clip the legs off close to the board. Insert the next largest components and solder them in, and clip
the legs.

When inserting the electrolytic capacitors (the round ones) make sure the leg marked as negative
goes in as per the diagram. The negative side has the stripe and the short leg. The green film
capacitor can go in either way round.

The diode must go the correct way round, with the black stripe pointing down (the black stripe is the
end that connects with the Gate of the transistor not the end that connects to 0 volts)

IF you solder something in the wrong place you can remove the component by heating up one leg and
pulling a little with some pliers, then the other leg. IF you work back and forward the part should
come out mm by mm.

A common issue with stripboard and pcbs is that it is quite easy to bridge the strips with a blob of
solder or a leg that has not been snipped off enough. So check this. IF you are not sure you can use a
multimeter on the continuity setting (or resistance) and check that there is no connection between
adjacent tracks. You can also run a knife down between the tracks to make sure.

Make sure the transistor (the mosfet) goes in with the legs the right way round, see the pin out
diagram near the end of these notes.

The next stage is to wire everything up.

Follow the diagram, and take your time. You may want to do this in stages. Plan it out First, iF you
wire up everything outside of the case you will probably be able to get at the solder junctions more
easily, however make sure it will all go back in without the wires getting in the way. | found that
having the switch screwed in and the sockets and pot loose worked well.

| Find that it is a good idea to tin everything first. So tin the ends of the wire, and the parts that the
wire will join onto. IF both have a small layer of solder on you will find the solder Flows more easily
when they are joined.
| recommend using standard (old school) 60% Tin 40% Lead solder with a rosin core. | have Found the
lead free stuff not as easy to use. Lead is of course not good For you, so clean your hands after using
it.

Mount the pots, then the sockets and switch. The battery will be a tight Fit with the lid but because
the lid is slightly recessed it will fit in Fine, when the lid is on it will be snug and not rattle around.
Make sure the bottom of the board in insulated From the case. There is a piece of foam sticky tape
included which you can use.

The battery should go either straight across the bottom just above the screw holes, it may not fit
diagonaly.
You can now plug a guitar in and test the pedal out. Note that the input (stereo socket) switches the
battery on when a plug is inserted.
IF itis all working you can then tighten all the bolts, add the knobs and screw the lid on.

The best advice for troubleshooting is to have abreak and try again later, especially if you are working
at night.

You may of course want to decorate the case. | have had success with car spray paint, and also
household oil based paint, you can sometimes buy little tester ports quite cheaply. Hammerite is also
good.
Resistor Colour Codes

ai Ladi) __ 10M (10 Mega Ohms)

ye — 100K (100 Kilo Ohms)

ts 5.1k (5.1 Kilo Ohms)

Circuit Layout

O—T
ITT
Zener
9.1V
 Stripboard Layout
The view of this stripboard diagram is from the component side.

ov
Input
Ground
Output

Wire links

fey Cuts in
copper track Cn

Ground

BS170 Mosfet Transitor Lead Out

High
voltage Low
“can pull low” voltage (c.g. GND)
Wiring Diagram

Input - 3 pole Output 2 pole

D. Haskell (c)2013
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