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Operational and process parameters

influencing quality management in
modern spinning mills
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TOPICS

 Current textile scenario

 Importance of raw material selection

 Influence of process parameters on yarn quality

 Quality Assurance steps

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CURRENT TEXTILE SCENARIO

Trend in global textile trade and share of key exporters

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CURRENT TEXTILE SCENARIO

Trend – India’s textile exports (USD Billion) Trend – India’s textile exports (INR Billion)

Trend – INR / USD Exchange rate

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CURRENT TEXTILE SCENARIO

 In FY2016, as per the data from Ministry of Commerce, India’s textile exports
stood at US$ 37.9 Billion, which represents a 14.5% share in total exports of
the country.

 Textile exports have grown from a level of about US$ 29.4 Billion in FY2011
at a CAGR of 5.2% for the period FY2011-2016.

 While the growth in textile exports in US$ terms has been 29% during the
last five years, the growth in Indian Rupee terms is at a much steeper - 85%.

 This is a result of the sharp depreciation of the Indian Rupee during these
years from INR/US$ of 45.6 in FY2011 to INR/US$ of 65.5 in FY2016.

 Subsequent to the strong growth during the period FY2011-2014, textile

exports have stagnated in the last two years. Besides the impact of a weak
trend in global textile trade amidst sluggish global economy and fibre prices,
the loss of growth momentum has also been driven by moderation in
exports of textile intermediaries (primarily cotton fibre and cotton yarn) to
China due to factors specific to changes in China’s textile policy.
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CURRENT DOMESTIC TEXTILE SCENARIO

Slow growth in domestic yarn consumption

High reliance on cotton yarn exports

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CURRENT TEXTILE SCENARIO

Profitability of spinners to be adversely impacted in Q2FY2017

In ICRA’s view, in the near term, the spinning industry will be the first to be impacted
because of the spurt in the cotton prices. The spinning industry is already facing
challenges on account of:
 Slow growth in domestic consumption
 Stagnation in export , given that exports account for nearly 30 to 33% of the
total production

With the increase in cotton and hence yarn prices, the channel inventory with
weavers/traders will shrink as they will minimise their stocking and will create a short-
term negative impact on demand.

The exports have been stagnant and with domestic cotton prices being higher than
international cotton prices, the export prospects for the spinning industry also remain
challenging.

Both the above factors of slow domestic demand and the challenging export prospects
will pose difficulties for the mills to sell their production and the mills could see a
declining capacity utilisation as well as contribution margins.
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CURRENT TEXTILE SCENARIO

Spun yarn production growth in FY2016 slowest in last four years

 In FY2016, India’s cotton yarn production grew by ~2.0% to ~4,136 million Kg,
which is the slowest pace of growth during the last four years.

 Earlier, cotton yarn production had grown by 14.6%, 9.6% and 3.2% in
FY2013, FY2014 and FY2015 respectively.

 Thus, slow growth in domestic consumption and exports will pose a challenge
for profitability of spinners if the demand growth remains muted in FY2017.
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WHAT IS QUALITY ?

 The basic problem in a cotton textile mill is the

manufacture of a standard product from an
essentially non-standard and highly variable
raw – material.

 The quality of yarn should confirm to certain

accepted norms depending on the end use.

 ISO 8402-1986 standard defines quality as "the

totality of features and characteristics of a
product or service that bears its ability to satisfy
stated or implied needs.”
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Fibre Quality
FOR COTTON
1. 2.5% span length / 50% span length / Uniformity ratio.
2. Upper Half Mean Length / mean length / Uniformity index.
3. Mic.value / Maturity Co-efficient.
4. Fibre strength at 3mm gauge.
5. Trash content.
6. Colour – Reflectance value & Degree of yellowness.
7. Neps & Short fibre content in cotton
AFIS
1. 5% LENGTH
2. SHORT FIBRE CONTENT (n)%
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IMPORTANCE OF RAW MATERIAL SELECTION

Fibre Characteristics as Factors Influencing Yarn Characteristics for

a given Yarn Count
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IMPORTANCE OF RAW MATERIAL SELECTION
Factors to be Considered Before Doing Mixing
Length of cotton
The length of the fibers should be almost equal otherwise various
types of problem will create. Fibers having different length causes
problem in drafting zone &also in simplex or ring frame.
Length deviation
Length deviation should not exceed 10% deviation from mixing to
mixing for the same lot.
Micronaire of cotton
The second considerable factor for mixing is the micronaire value of
fiber, the higher, the micronaire value, the fibers are regarded coarser.
Micronaire CV % of mixing bales
The micronaire CV % of mixing bales should be 5%.
Micronaire deviation
The average micronaire deviation of cotton fibers with in lot should be
(+/-0.1) Otherwise mixing quality cannot be classified as good quality.
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Color of cotton
Color is also a very important factor in mixing. In case of cotton, it is
measured by brightness of cotton and the presence of yellow color in
cotton
Color deviation
in mixing, the range of Rd value should be around 5 and the +b value
should be around 2.5. For example two lots of adjacent color can be
mixed, such as white and light spotted or light spotted and spotted
can be mixed. But white and spotted cannot be mixed.
Lay down
Every cross section of the lay down plan should be same. Which
means average micronaire value should be controlled in every cross
section.
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Fibre - yarn relationships

PREDICTION EXPRESSION USING HVI MEASURED FIBRE PROPERTIES (ICC MODE)
Carded Counts
Lea CSP = 285 √Ls/f + 590 – 13 C
Combed Counts
Lea CSP = [285 √Ls/f + 590 – 13 C] [1+W/100]

Carded Counts

Rkm ( g/tex) = 1.9 √Ls/f + 4.0 – 13 C / 150

Where, C Yarn count (Ne)

L 50% span length (mm)
S Fibre bundle strength (g/tex)
f Micronaire value (µg/inch)
W Comber noil (%)
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Fibre - yarn relationships

PREDICTION EXPRESSION USING HVI MEASURED FIBRE PROPERTIES (HVI MODE)
Carded Counts
Lea CSP = 190 √Ls/f + 590 – 13 C
Combed Counts
Lea CSP = [190 √Ls/f + 590 – 13 C] [1+W/100]

Carded Counts

Rkm ( g/tex) = 1.27 √Ls/f + 4.0 – 13 C / 150

C Yarn count (Ne)

L Mean fibre length (mm)
S Fibre bundle strength (g/tex)
f Micronaire value (µg/inch)
W Comber noil (%)
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Fibre quality Vs yarn unevenness

PREDICTION EXPRESSION USING HVI MEASURED FIBRE PROPERTIES (ICC MODE)

u 2 = 21.5 (f / L)2 d -1 Ne + a (d ‒ 1) + ur2

d
u = yarn unevenness L = 50% SL of cotton
ur = Roving unevenness d = draft given in Ringframe
f = mic. value of cotton Ne = Count spun
a = Contribution of RF condition to yarn unevenness

Under good working conditions a = 1.0

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Fibre quality Vs yarn unevenness

PREDICTION EXPRESSION USING HVI MEASURED FIBRE PROPERTIES (HVI MODE)

u 2 = 60 (f / L)2 d -1 Ne + a (d ‒ 1) + ur2
d
u = yarn unevenness L = 50% SL of cotton
ur = Roving unevenness d = draft given in Ringframe
f = mic. value of cotton Ne = Count spun
a = Contribution of RF condition to yarn unevenness

Under good working conditions a = 1.0

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Fibre quality Vs yarn hairiness

1 1
S3 =275 √CPIYH x √spindle speed x ---- x ----------
TM √Count

Mic. Value x SFC (w)

CPIYH is defined as --------------------------
FL
SITRA Norms for yarn hairiness (S3 value)

Hairiness S3 value
Count
Good Average
Carded
30s 665 1600
40s 825 1700

Combed
40s 575 1600
60s 500 1400
80s 530 1550
100s 700 1350
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FACTORS SIGNIFICANTLY INFLUENCING

YARN QUALITY
Apart from proper raw material selection

 BLOWROOM OPENING & CLEANING

 CARDING OPENING, CLEANING AND NEP REMOVAL

 COMBER SHORT FIBRE & NEP REMOVAL

 DRAFTING SETTINGS & BREAK DRAFT IN DRAW FRAME,

SPEED FRAME AND RING FRAME

 MACHINES SPEED & MAINTENANCE CONDITIONS

 WINDING SPEED & YARN TENSION

 OPERATOR WORK METHOD

 DEPARTMENT CLIMATIC CONDITIONS

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MATERIAL OPENNESS STUDY IN BLOWROOM

Openness Apparent Specific Vol. – Actual Specific Vol.
Value (O.V.) =
Actual Specific Volume

(V/M – A)
=
A
V
Apparent Specific Volume =
M

Where, V = Apparent Volume of Cotton

M = Mass of Cotton

1
Actual Specific Volume (A) =
D
Where, D = Specific Gravity of Cotton
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MATERIAL OPENNESS STUDY IN BLOWROOM

Contd..
Opening Efficiency of a x
=
Beating Point (O.E.) Y

Where, x = Openness Value (OV) of Cotton

after passing through the
Beating Point

Y = Openness Value (OV) of the same

Cotton after Passing through
Shirley Analyser \ card web
Opening efficiency values will always be lower than
100 : higher the value of OE, better is the performance
Of blow room line and vice versa.
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OPENNESS STUDY IN BLOWROOM

CASE STUDY -1 DCH/MCU 5 GIZA/PIMA
Openness Openness
Beating Value Value
Sl. No.
Points (Individual) (Individual)
LINE I Line II
1. Mixing 35 35
2. Bale Plucker 56 58
3. Vario Clean 82 88
4. Unimix 1 99 136
5. Card Web 118 145
Opening Efficiency (%) 84 94
NEP INCREASE % 170 63
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Effect of Variation in Openness

On Carding Behaviour
CASE STUDY - 2

Blow Room Blow Room

Parameters
(A) (B)
Opening Efficiency 83 92
% Trash in Lap 2.5 1.8
% Trash in Sliver 0.3 0.10
Neps per gram in Card 75 50
Sliver
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Length Control (LCT) – A fiber length tester

The sliver is fed manually into the instrument and thus into the drafting
system (2). The clamp (3) grasps the sliver and moves to the combing rolls
(4) which then comb out the fibre beard. Next, the clamp moves to the
straightening unit (5) with the sample and then to the camera (6). It measures the
fibre beard on both sides upto 0.2 mm from the clamp. The evaluation of the
measurement with additional information on parallelism and fibre hooks are
shown on the display screen (1). The fan (8) generates the necessary negative
pressure to convey the sample and dispose of it in the waste container (9).
The integrated compressor (7) supplies compressed air to the pneumatic
components of the instrument.
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Application of LCT

The ‘Length control LCT’ is mainly useful in process optimisation

of synthetic fibre process from carding to finisher draw frame as
well as in cotton process too as follows:

 Assessing carding intensity

 Determination of optimum cylinder speed in a card

for a given cotton / synthetic fibre.
 Assessing the performance difference between
individual cards in a carding department.

 Optimising the drafting roller distance settings in Ist

passage and Final passage draw frames
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SAMPLE REPORT OF LCT

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POLY / VISCOSE SLIVER

TEST REPORT OF LCT
MILL SAMPLES TEST REPORT
PARAMETERS CARDSLIVER BR.DF SLIVER FR.DF SLIVER

UPPER LENGTH (mm) 33.36 34.41 35.17

FIBRE HOOKS% 14.30 7.7 0.5

SHORT FIBRE CONTENT % 3.5 0.3 0.0

STAPLE GRADIANT % 47.8 51.1 55.4

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Reduction in yarn imperfections at

different levels of noil extraction

Counter Noil : 12 to 20%

Comber Noil *Reduction in

(%) Yarn Imperfections (%)
12 70 - 75
15 75 – 80
20 80 – 85
* In comparison with carded counts
Short fibre removal efficiency of modern combers (noil extraction 20%)

Short Fibre Removal Efficiency

Rating
(%)
Good 70
Average 60
Poor 50
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Yarn Imperfections

 Factors influencing thin and thick places in yarns different from

that influencing neps.

 Fibre parameters like L, SFC, mic. value etc. influence both thick
& thin places and neps.

 Spindle speed, spinning draft etc. influence mainly thick & thin
places. However no direct impact on neps.
Imperfections in cotton yarns spun from a given cotton
A mill spins 40s carded yarn from Shankar 4 cotton. The imperfection level
in the yarn is as follows:
Thin places / km = 25
Thick places / km = 300
Neps / km = 500
If the mill spins 50s carded yarn from the same cotton, they want to know
what will be the expected level of imperfections in yarn?
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Yarn Imperfections(contd..)

The present level of (Thin + Thick) places in 40s carded yarn = 325 / km
The present level of neps in 40s carded yarn = 500 / km
As per studies conducted at SITRA
Thin places + Thick places in cotton yarn vary as the square of the count (C2) and
Neps vary as C 3/2, where ‘C’ is the count spun.
Hence, while spinning 50s yarn, from sankar 4 cotton,
The expected level of thin + thick places in yarn (under optimum process conditions)
= 325 x 50 2

40

= 325 x 1.252 = 507 / km

The expected level of neps in yarn (under optimum process conditions)

= 500 x 50 3/2

40

= 500 x 1.25 1.5 = 500 x 1.3975 = Ω 700 / km

Hence, the expected level of total imperfections in 50s carded yarn = 507 + 700 = 1207
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Yarn Hairiness
 Hairiness problems are estimated to account for up to 15% of

Protruding hairs from the surface of the yarn

faults in fabric, affecting production in the spinning mill as well
as reducing the value of yarn.
 The resulting extra costs and delays in processing, as well as
customer complaints, can be extremely damaging.
 Hairiness variation showing up in a fabric after dyeing is just
one example of a potentially negative and costly effect of
unmonitored yarn hairiness.
I. Uster tester 3 or 4 - Hairiness Index (H)

ii. Shirley Hairiness tester = Hairs / 100m

or = Total no. of hairs with length
Zweigle Hairiness tester S3 value greater than 3mm
iii. Z.H.T ― Later versions - It is possible to obtain frequency
diagram of hairs protruding
1,2,3,4,6,8,10,12, 15,18,21 and 25mm
from the yarn core.

iv. Uster 5 ― Uster Zweigle HL 400(400 to 800 m/min)

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Yarn Conditioning
Quality improvement due to yarn conditioning
Quality attributes Extent of improvement /
deterioration
Tenacity (g/tex) +3% to 5%
Breaking elongation (%) +0.5 units
Hairiness index (H) -0.5 units
Normal imperfections / km +20% to 30%
- Sign indicates reduction
+ sign indicates increase

The moisture regain of the yarns conditioned in a conditioning machines

Position of Moisture regain
the cone TYPE A TYPE B
Top 8.1 8.2
Middle 7.8 7.9
Bottom 7.6 7.1
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YARN LINT SHEDDING PROPENSITY

Lawson & Hemphill CTT Tester

 The tendency of a yarn to shed fly or lint during knitting or

other mechanical processes can be termed as Lint
Shedding Propensity (LSP)
 The problem is rather severe in new generation knitting
machines where the processing speeds are high
 At higher speed the fibres on the surface of yarns are
subjected to greater tensile as well as frictional forces,
which make them more vulnerable to fibre shedding.
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Lawson & Hemphill CTT Tester (contd.)
Lint shedding propensity (contd..)
 Lawson – Hempill Inc. of USA has introduced an instrument
namely Constant Tension Transport (CTT) which can
stimulate the lint shedding during knitting by utilizing one of
the attachments.
 This instrument provides accurate results.

Several types of test fixtures such as sinkers, needles, reeds

fixed at different angles can be attached simulating different
Lint Generation production environments.
attachment A specified length of yarn is run through the test and the lint
is collected on a filter. The collected lint is weighed and can
Speed – 360 m/min be taken as a measure of lint generation potential of the
yarn.
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LSP – Tendency of a Yarn to Shed Fly

or Lint During Knitting

During Knitting, Hairs/Loops are Pulled/

Sheared from the Yarn
and Accumulate around
the Knitting Elements

These Accumul. Picked up by Yarn,

Jam In the Needles,
Break the Yarn/Needles
& Ruin the Fabric
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Lawson & Hemphill CTT Tester (contd.)

Lint shedding propensity of cotton yarns

Guidelines Values for Lint Shedding of Cotton Yarns

Count Lint Shedding* Count Lint Shedding*

(Ne) (mg/kg of Yarn) (Ne) (mg/kg of Yarn)
20s KH 300.00 50s CW 225.00
20s CH 200.00 60s CH 200.00
30s CH 150.00 60s CW 140.00
30s CW 110.00 80s KW 480.00
40s KW 400.00 80s CW 350.00
40s KH 275.00 100s CH 850.00
50s CH 300.00 100s CW 540.00

* Lint shedding is measured using cone yarns.

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Cone winding
1. Speeds to be maintained for different counts

2000 50
30s C 80s C 52s K 80s C 30s C 52s K
Total Imperfections/km

1600 40

Hairiness/mt (000s)
1200 30

800 20

400 10

0 0
. 1100 1200 1300 1400 1500 . . 1100 1200 1300 1400 1500 .
Winding Speed (mpm) Winding Speed (mpm)
Figure : 1 Figure : 2
Effect of Winding Speed on Effect of Winding Speed on
Yarn Imperfections Yarn Hairiness
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Cone winding

2. Winding tension to be maintained for different counts

Effect of yarn tension on wound yarn quality
Winding Tension Winding Tension
(as % of Single Yarn (as % of Single Yarn
Strength) Total Imp/km Strength) Total Imp/km

Cop Yarn 335 Cop Yarn 264

8 362 (8%) 8 292 (10%)

10 386 (13%) 10 328 (24%)

13 413 (23%) 12 410 (55%)

15 503 (50%) 15 470 (78%)

Yarn Count : 16s K – Winding Speed : 1000 mpm Yarn Count : 40s C – Winding Speed : 1000 mpm
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Cone winding(contd..)

3. Cone weight to be maintained for optimum package density

Cone weight Vs Package density
(Package Density in Mercer Values)
Cone Weight Count
(kgs) 16s K 40s C
0.25 51 52
0.75 44 47
1.25 39 41
1.75 33 37
2.50 27 29
The package density gets lowered as the package builds up.
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CASE STUDIES
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CASE STUDY 1
Problem reported: Harsh feeling & Uneven appearance of
fabric produced from 100% poly yarn.
Analysis : Higher ring yarn TPI (3.2 T.M)
(1.2D x 38 mm)
Action initiated : Reduced the ring yarn TPI (3.0 T.M)
Result : Higher end breakage in ring frames
( More than 12 breaks/100spl/hr)
On further analysis observed there are issues with drafting the
Roving. Hence reduced the roving T.M from 0.7 to 0.58 in
Steps and sorted out the problems.
Now the Mill is almost a market leader in domestic market in
fabric feel comparison in 100% Poly knitted fabrics.
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CASE STUDY 2
Problem reported: Presence of mild long thick places
produced from 100% poly yarn after
installing new autoleveller draw frames
Analysis : Higher sliver compactness
(1.2D x 38 mm)
Action initiated : Increased the delivery condenser size
4.2mm to 5.0 mm
Result : Reduction in winding joints and
No customer complaints
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CASE STUDY 2 contd…

TK34 (100%
YARN POLYESTER)
REGULAR SAMPLE
After 5.0 MM
4.2 MM
Condenser
Condenser
Details change

Nep 31 13 Neps/km 25 21
Short 502 288 Thick/km 146 112
Long 66 38 Thin/km 60 28
Thin 39 34 Small/km 2.1 1.7
Off count 6 0
Clusters 0 0 2-4 2076 1714
Total 650 371 4-8 164 123
8-20 28 17
SFI C 1.7 0 20-70 0 0
No. of splices 927 649
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CASE STUDY 3
Problem reported: Higher yarn breaks during warping
1.5 breaks/one million metres as against
standard of 0.6/0ne million metres.
Winding Details
Yarn count : 30sC compact
Cone weight : 1.850 kgs.
Conicity : 4o20’
Winding speed : 1100 mpm
Clearer cuts : 80/one lakh metres.
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Warping Details
Winding Speed : 550 m/min
No.of ends/beam : 500
No.of beams/creel : 8
Beam length : 12000 metres.
Tension weight : 4 gms.
No.of breaks/one
S.no. Breakage details million metres

1 Weak places, Fluff and PP bits in yarn 0.74

2 Cone tip damages 0.40
Yran entanglement, wild yarn, Weak splice
3 and cone exhaust 0.20
4 Base cut end and nose cut end in cones 0.15
Total 1.49
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Yarn Breaks during warping distribution

10%

Base cut and

nose cut end
in cones

13%

Yarn entaglement, Wild yarn

Weak splice and Cone exhaust Weak places, Fluff and PP bits

50%

Cone tip damages

27%
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CASE STUDY 3 Analysis & Suggestions

On analysis 50% breaks are accountable upto Spinning and
remaining 50% are with cone winding , Packing and transport.
Hence suggested that
 Fine tune the process from Blow room to Spinning and
carry out quality audit to improve basic yarn quality.
 While using the used (Second hand)Paper cones
again, check for nose eccentricity, hardness of empty
cones and use of proper solvent to clean the previous
identification marks etc.
 Proper cone winding maintenance and clean yarn
running path
 Training for proper transport of cones from department
and packing
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MAINTAINING QUALITY

By means of

 QUALITY CONTROL

 QUALITY ASSURANCE
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DISSIMILARITY

QUALITY CONTROL : QC is a set of activities for

ensuring quality in products.
The activities focus on identifying
defects in the actual products
produced.

QUALITY ASSURANCE: QA is a set of activities for

ensuring quality in the
processes by which products
are developed.
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RESPONSIBILITY OF QC & QA TEAM

QUALITY CONTROL : Quality control is usually the

responsibility of a specific team
that tests the product for defects.

QUALITY ASSURANCE : Everyone on the team involved

in developing the product is
responsible for quality assurance.
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QUALITY SYSTEMS FOR TEXTILE MILLS

ISO 9000 : A Textile mill can implement ISO9002 &

ISO9003 . ISO 9001 model is more
appropriate for Speciality yarn and fabric
manufacturers.

TQM : Total Quality Management is a set of

practices put in place throughout a
company that are geared to ensure the
organization consistently meets or
exceeds customer requirements.
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TOTAL QUALITY MANAGEMENT

Some Definitions evolved for TQM are

 TQM is the process of achieving agreed customer

requirements at the lowest effective cost by bringing
out the talents of all the employees

 TQM stands for management approach to an

organisation, centred on quality, based on the
participation of all its members and aiming at long
term success through customer satisfaction and
benefits of all members of the organisation and to
society
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TOTAL QUALITY MANAGEMENT

IMPLEMENTATION IN A TEXTILE MILL

ISO 9000
IMPLEMENTATION

IMPROVEMENT B.P.B & B.P.R

TQM
TEAM

CHANGE
MANAGEMENT

B.P.B – BUSINESS PROCESS BENCH MARKING

B.P.R – BUSINESS PROCESS RE ENGINEERING
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RE ENGINEERING CYCLE IN TQM

PROCEDURE
DEVELOPMENT

SYSTEM EVALUATION OF
RE-ENGINEERING PROCEDURES

Q
IMPLEMENTATION
COMPETITIVE
COMPARISON

RESULTS
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BENEFITS OF TQM
 TQM focus on the customer needs and relationship.
 By TQM it is possible to achieve quality in all aspects.
 TQM method analyzes all process to remove defects.
 TQM helps to find improvement on a continuous
basis.
 It develops team approach to solve the problem.
 TQM helps to maintain effective procedures of
communications.
 It improves market share.
 TQM is responsible for higher productivity.
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BARRIERS OF TQM

 TQM needs higher training and development cost.

 Higher commitment is required from the entire
business team.
 It needs bureaucracy and regular audits.
 During process, stress is put on process not on the
products.
 Higher skill set is required to maintain TQM
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ROLE OF SITRA FOR YOU

To implement the TQM, services of SITRA helps you to

 Set realistic standards

 Compare yourself with Benchmark standards
 Analyse the causes for deviation and offer technical /
technological services to bridge the gap
 Comprehensive training for all levels.
 Training of trainers.
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Thank you