100%(1)100% found this document useful (1 vote) 5K views3 pagesAbigail Fairy Dress - Christel Riley Watts
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ALU MALL tas
SPECIAL STITCHES:
‘Stitches into the 3RD LOOP: HDCSL (Half double crochet) or DC3L (Double
octet) into 3d loop - Normal, yout inset your hook under ‘he 2 op loops of
sith Fyou lokjust low that (onthe wrongback side of your wort there wl be
athe, sighty slanted loop of yar Fidng there {comes fom the yarn cre).
“oul be working though thes oops, which ae undemeath the space you normally
putyour sith itis pat yul be working on ha sight side (RS) of the work 0
this 3 oop wil ein the back ofthe work You'nsert your hock over the top into
thebackafthe work fromtopto bottom. Photos i patem for further carat.
Pal stitch: Yarn over and inst your hookinto the specif stitchispace. Yarn over
again and pullup long loop tC height. Yr over and inert your haokinto the
same sitvspace Yam oer agin an pllup along oop four mare times Yarn
‘ver and pl trough al oops on your hook, Ch to clse the Puf Stitch,
Pyramid Pica: (skip 2, 03, TAU pot into top of T, DCI int same st. skip 2S)
Pot: Chain 3 sip stich nto base stich
TRC Shel: Heble crochet shel (TR, CH2,TR2) int the same stitch
Optional: Feundotion HDC- there are meny greet vileo tutorial tha teat tis
method. t's bt fong to cover here
VERSION 2
Fingering weight yn ca 1000m/250q - 2000/5009
Scheepjes Whirl Passion Melt)
(OR Goton Kings Tits Deluxe (rom Hobbit)
(Colous: Imperial Purple Paraiba Tourmaline)
Whatever suits your yam/pceterence (typically 3-4)
Gauges not important for this version
Measuring tape, 10 sich markers
1248 months: 20" 51am
23%: 20.2" /52-54em
3. 215-28 1'95-58em
68. 23.26" (9-660
ony 21 | 68790
Xs/S. 32.98" / 8-96
wi 36-40" /$1-1006n
Xe 42 | Wremupwards
© Christel Filey Watts - All rights reserved
Pattern uses US terms.
‘Reading the notes is absolutely essential for this pattern. The
‘instructions are contained inthe nots, so please don't skip them :)
This item can be made asa dess oa flared top I's worked from the top
down, in one single piece. The size adjustments appear at various
intervals inte patter.
TERMS (US)
CH Chain
Sh Sitch
Skst_ Skip stitch
hsp: Chain space
SC: Single crochet
HDC: Half double crochet
ec: Double crochet
TR: Trobe crochetMa VERSION 7 mo
YOKE:
Chain (or foundation HDC for best resuits) 2 length that is long enough tft comfortably over the head when you are holding the ends together
Hf you want a wider neckline, add 10 chains (or more, f you wantit bit ofthe-shoulder) Dont worry about stitch count) Just remember that it
right stretch a bit wider as you go.
NOTE: Ifyou're unable to measure the starting chain on someone, you can use the chest measurement as a guide.
TAKE NOTE! oul join with sip stitch atthe end of every ound, and chain, Your n nal be {HOC in 3rd loop into the back ofthe work
worked it th stich eow he CH revert the CHL. Ts apples th
NDI: HOC into 2nd chain from hook, HDC to end of row. (skp this row fou started with FHC)
Jain int the ist st witha slp stitch. You'l carry om nthe rouid fom here
Place a stitch marker to keep track ofthe roinds
RND2: CHL HOC into every st, increasing (2HDC) into every 6th st. HDC tothe end ofthe round,
Join with s st, CH
RND3: — HDC3L (HDC into ard loop See special stitches) in every st, increasing in every Sth st. HDC to end,
Join with st, CHL
(TIP: {you absolutely cannot get a hang of the 3rd loop, then back loop is fine)
RND4: DC into every st, increasing (2DC) into every 4th st. DC tothe end ofthe round, Join with s st, CHL
NDS: [Puff st, skip 1] repeat to end of round. (Remember to clase your puff st. with cht) Ifyou have an
uneven numberof stitches, simply skip 2st, at the end, oin with sst, CHL
(TIP: Don't worry if your work gets a bit wavy here. It should straighten out. the next rounds)
RNDG: —HOCin every sto the end a the row - tothe top st: ofthe putfs aswel as into the spaces
Join with sl st, CHL
FND7; —DC3L (DC into 3rd loop - see special stitches) into everystto.end of row Join with s st, CHT
RND8: — HOCtoend of row. Join with sls, CHI
AND9-10: HDC3L in every stto end ofrow.Joinwithst 3% CM,
(TIP: For larger sizes- If you'd like the yoke to be broader, carry on with plain HDC rounds until
the bottom of the yoke reaches the top of your chest, at the top of your armpit, or just below.
Finish witha row of HDC3L.)
Pulf stitch round
DIVIDING THE YOKE:
“Here you'll need to count stitches. Lay the yoke flat. Mark the 2
stitches at the ton ofeach armpit, onthe font and back pars (place 4
stitch markers in total), The space between the front 2 markers should
be roughly the width ofthe chest fom armpitto armpit This marks the
beginning points of the sleeves. Count the stitches on the sleeves (the
part that will go over the top of the arm, between each side's front and
back markers). Youll work a pyramid picot edge onthe sleeves (see
special stitches) which needs 6 stitches per pyramid, plus one SC at
the end, so you need a multiple of +1
(e.g. 7 pyramids x 6 st = 42 + I gives 43 stitches in total per sleeve).
For small sizes, you'l have 6 of 7 pyramids, so 37 or 43 stitches
(oossbiy fewer for tiny sizes)
Larger sizes:
8 pyramids ~ 49 s,9 pyramids ~ 55st, 10 pyramids ~ 6st and so on
Move the stitch markers so that you have the correct number of
stitches on each sleeve. Make sur thatthe stich markers ine yp on
the front and back (give or take a stitch or 2)
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ABIGAIL FAIRY DRESS
‘SLEEVES AND BODY:
NDT: HOCin every stup to Ist st marke, SC into marke st:
Pyramid pict [ie (C3, TA, pec ito top oF TR, DCS) nto same st, s12, SC]
Repeatl ] upto the next marke st, making the last SC into the marked st
HOC up othe next marked st, SC intothe marked st,
Pyramid pict [ie (0C3, TA, pec ito top oF TR, DCS) nto same st, s12, SC]
Repeatl ] upto the next marke st, making the last Cito the marked st
HOC‘o the end othe ruin with asst & CHL
AND 2: HOC‘ the Ist marker (where the slave starts). Join wit a sls into the mated s.
“TAKE
iene measure the space under the ams. Chain (or fcundation HOC) 2 length that isthe space from the font marker under the arm tothe back marker,
ccomfortabis (TP: Using foundation HDC wil give you abit more stretch then a chain)
For tiny sizes, youl need approx 15-20 st For larger ses youl need to make sure you create enough spaceforthe
‘ato fithrough comfortably. (Fora large bust make sure to add enouch room her!) You'l need t use the same
length under both arms. Te TOTAL circumference ofthe font ls bak, plus both underarm parts together should
‘corespond aprosmately tothe olloning standard chest measurements uress you are making @ custom size)
Chest Circumference: 12-I8mmihs: 20° (Slam)
2-87, 20-2" (62-54en)
3-5 215-2 (65-580)
6-ay -26° (59-68on)
9-1: 27-3" (68-790n)
XS «38 (61-€00m)
Mi: 36-40" (@i-tooem)
Me 42 (Tem upwards)
* Join chain with sist into the marked stitch at the end of the sleeve, (Make sure not to twist it!)
* HDC in every st up to the next marked st. at the start of the next sleeve. S|st into the marked st.
Chain a length as per the previous sleeve, ad join with asst. into the next marked st. HDC to end of row.
Don't join with a sist Simply carry on in the round, and remove the stitch markers.
a HDC in every stitch for the next 3 rounds.
“TAKE NOTE! Here is where you decide how long you want the fited upper body section. Fortin sizes, | suggest going straight ito the skirt pert Fr children’ sles |
‘suggest 5-10 rounds of HDC: Increasing the length here will give you a longer fitted part, using less yam forthe overall dress. For adult sues i's up to you
‘now long you want the fied part. Adding lena here will use ess yarn i he skit part.
‘SKIRT SECTION:
Here is where you must decide now wield you want the sit. The mote pons you have, Ue wider he fle wil be (and he higher the "wit facto")
Obviously the wider/longer the skirt, the more yarn you'll need.
(TIP: 1000m of yarn is enough for a dress with 8 points, for size 4 year-old, Adult sizes will need at least 2000m upwards.
‘You will need to figure out how much yarn you'll need, since it depends on too many variables for it to be an exact science.)
Dive the und into your choice ofthe 4 0 6 o 8, 10 equal sections, and place sich marker a those points points ging very gravel inimal
flare, and 10 points giving the widest flare (best for the tiny sizes). Each stitch marker will become a point of the skirt, so make sure that they are spaced so that
the points ine p nicely withthe boy.
(TIP: Ityou're only making 4 points, make sure the 2 front points line up with the breasts, Then line up the 2 back points with the 2 front ones.)
‘Next md: DC into each stitch, and DC shell (OC, Chi, DC) into every marked stitch to create the points.
‘on'tjin with asst. Carr on nthe rund from here onwards
[Next nds: DC into each stitch, and DC shell (0, Ch, DC) into every chain space.
MOTE: Don't skip/forget the very Ist DC after each DC shell I's calfed the hidden stitch, and it lies half under the previous stitch
Now mavethe sich mater the itch hates may between ach ofthe points
‘From here onwards until you reach the desired length:
[DC into each stitch up to the stich marker, skip 2st. (For every round afterwards, make sure you skp the same 2 middle stitches between all the points)
Co the next point, TR Shel (2TR, Ch2,7R) into that chain space]
‘Repeat this until the dress/top is the length you want. On each subsequent round, you will be working DCs into the TRs from the previous round,
Tis creates a uy fet hats intentional
‘Last round: DC in every st, sk2 at mid-point, DC up to chasp, (TR2, picot, TR2) into chsp,
‘The dress will benef from blocking, especially to settle the sleeves and points It also improves the drape.
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR YOUR SUPPORT! | HOPE YOUR DRESS 1S GORGEOUS =)
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