Lesson Guide Basic Pant Sloper Pattern Making: Beginner

Module 1 – Lesson Prep

Step 1 For this pant sloper lesson you will need to download and print the Pant Measurement
Chart, the Plot Sheet pages 1 and 2 and the Fractions to Decimals Sheet.

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Module 1 - Lesson Prep

Step 1 For this pant sloper lesson you will need to download and print the Pant Measurement
Chart, the Plot Sheet pages 1 and 2 and the Fractions to Decimals Sheet.

2
Module 1 - Lesson Prep

Step 1 For this pant sloper lesson you will need to download and print the Pant Measurement
Chart, the Plot Sheet pages 1 and 2 and the Fractions to Decimals Sheet.

3
Module 1 - Lesson Prep

Step 2 You will also need a piece of unlined pattern paper measuring 36” wide x 48” long.

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Module 1 - Lesson Prep

Step 3A We will be using a pant form to extract measurements for drafting this lesson, how-
ever you could use your own body measurements.
We will begin by style taping the pant form, measuring 9” down from the middle of the waist
tape on center front. This will be the pant’s hip line. The depth of the hipline may vary from 7”
to 9”. 5
Module 1 - Lesson Prep

Step 3B Style tape the hip parallel to the floor from center front to center back.

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Module 1 - Lesson Prep

Step 3C You can check the level of the hip tape by resting the L square ruler on the table
and turning the dress form to check that the tape is at the same level from front to back.

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Module 1 - Lesson Prep

Step 4 Style tape the middle of the waist tape from front to back.

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Lesson Guide Basic Pant Sloper Pattern Making: Beginner
Module 2 - Extract Measurements

Step 1 Next we will extract measurements from the pant form and record them on our Pant
Measurement Chart. On the right side seam, use your tape measure to measure the Out-
seam or side seam from the middle of the waist tape to the lower twill tape on the pant form.
Record this measurement in the point #1 line on the Pant Measurement Chart.
The Outseam for our size 10 pant, measures 40” long. 9
Module 2 - Extract Measurements

Step 1 You will notice two rows of twill tape at the bottom of the leg. The upper tape serves
as the ankle position and the lower tape, the floor. To draft a pant with the outseam length to
the floor, add an additional 2 3/4” to the outseam measurement.

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Module 2 - Extract Measurements

Step 2 Measure the Inseam of the pant by positioning the tape measure at the center of the
crotch and measuring to the ankle. Record this measurement on the Pant Measurement
Chart as point #2. Here ours measures 30”.

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Module 2 - Extract Measurements

Step 3 Use your tape measure to measure the circumference of the Hip. Be sure that the
tape measure rests on the hip style tape all the way around the form. Record this measure-
ment as point #3 on the Pant Measurement Chart. Our Hip Circumference measures 37”.

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Module 2 - Extract Measurements

Step 4 Measure the circumference of the Waist next with your tape measure and record this
measurement as point #4. Our Waist Circumference measures 27”.

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Module 2 - Extract Measurements

Step 5 Next, position your L square at the crotch to determine the Crotch Depth. Take the
measurement from the bottom edge of the ruler to the middle of the waist tape. This mea-
surement includes the 1 ¼” width of the L square. Here our crotch depth, including the ruler
width, is 11 ½”. Subtract the 1 ¼” ruler width from that measurement, then add ¾” ease and
record this measurement on point #5 of the Pant Measurement Chart. 14
Our total Crotch Depth measurement, including the ¾” ease, equals 11”.
Module 2 - Extract Measurements

Step 6 Now at the side seam measure from the Waist to the Knee to get the knee depth.
Record this measurement on point #6 of the Pant Measurement Chart. Our Knee depth mea-
sures 13 5/8”.

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Module 2 - Extract Measurements

Step 7 Find the Front Princess Line measurement by measuring on the waistline from prin-
cess seam to center front and record this measurement as point #7 on the Pant Measure-
ment Chart. Our Front Princess line measures 3 3/8”.

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Module 2 - Extract Measurements

Step 8 Then measure the Back Princess Line from the center back to the princess line at
the waistline and record this measurement as point #8 on the Pant Measurement Chart. Our
Back Princess Line measures 3 ”.

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Module 2 - Extract Measurements

Step 9 And finally, record your front Waist to Hip measurement as point #9 on the Pant Mea-
surement Chart.

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Lesson Guide Basic Pant Sloper Pattern Making: Beginner
Module 3 - Calculations for Draft

Step 1 Before we start drafting the pant sloper we need to calculate certain measurements
using the Calculations For Draft section of the Pant Measurement Chart. You may wish to
convert your fractions to decimals by using our Fractions to Decimals Chart.

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Module 3 - Calculations for Draft

Step 2 Our Front Body Width, point #10 on the Chart, is the hip circumference divided by 4.
Ours measures 9 ¼”. You will subtract ¼” from that measurement, ours equals 9”, and then
add ½” for ease, for a total of 9 ½”. You will add your measurements to point #10 on the
Calculations Chart.
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Module 3 - Calculations for Draft

Step 3 Our Back Body width, point #11, is the hip circumference divided by 4. Ours equals 9
¼” Add ¼” to that measurement for a sub-total of 9 ½”. Then add ½” ease to that measure-
ment, for in our case, a total of 10”.

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Module 3 - Calculations for Draft

Step 4 Next you’ll calculate the Front Waist, point #12. Take your total waist circumference
and divide it by 4. Here ours measures 6 ¾”. Add ¼” to that measurement for a total of 7”.
Then add 1” for dart intake and 3/8” for ease. Our total Front Waist measures 8 3/8”.

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Module 3 - Calculations for Draft

Step 5 Now you will calculate point #13, the Back Waist. Take your total waist circumference
and divide it by 4. Ours measures 6 ¾”, subtract ¼” for a total of 6 ½” then, add 2” for dart
intake, to get a total of 8 ½”. Add 3/8” for ease to get a final total of 8 7/8”.

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Module 3 - Calculations for Draft

Step 6 To get the Front Crotch Extension point #14, take your Front Body Width measure-
ment, in our case 9 ½” and divide that number by 4, to get 2 3/8”.

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Module 3 - Calculations for Draft

Step 7 Next you will find point #15, the Back Crotch Extension, by taking your Back Body
Width Measurement, in our case 10”, dividing it by 2 and then record that measurement.
Here our measurement is 5”.

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Module 3 - Calculations for Draft

Step 8 You will also need the Front and Back crease line measurements, point numbers 16
and 17.
To find this for the front, take your front crotch measurement, in our case, 11 7/8”, divide that
number by 2 for a total of 5 15/16”, add ¼”, to get a final total of 6 3/16th.
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Module 3 - Calculations for Draft

Step 9 For the Back Grainline/Creaseline, take your Back Crotch Line measurement, for this
form it is 15”, divide it by 2 for a total of 7 ½”, add ¼”, for a total of 7 ¾”.

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Lesson Guide Basic Pant Sloper Pattern Making: Beginner
Module 4 - Drafting Pant Guidelines

Step 1 Place your pattern paper on the table with the long length of the paper positioned
from left to right. Plot Sheet #1 shows the orientation of the paper and draft. Use your 48”
metal ruler and draw a line beginning at 4” in from the left side of the paper, down the center
of the paper. End the line at your point #1 outseam measurement and place a crossmark, this
is the ankle. Here our outseam measures 40”. 28
Module 4 - Drafting Pant Guidelines

Step 2 Use your L square and square a line off the right side of the outseam line, at the
waistline, for approximately 15”. This is the front waistline.

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Module 4 - Drafting Pant Guidelines

Step 3 Reposition the paper, flip the L square over and square a line off the outseam line at
the waistline for approximately 15”. This is the back waistline.

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Module 4 - Drafting Pant Guidelines

Step 4 Reposition the paper and square a line off the outseam at the front ankle mark for 15”,
using the same technique used for the waist.

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Module 4 - Drafting Pant Guidelines

Step 5 Reposition the paper for the back ankle line. Flip the L square and square a 15” line
on the lower right side of the outseam line, to create the back ankle line.

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Module 4 - Drafting Pant Guidelines

Step 6A Align your L square with the outseam line and the front waistline. Measure down
along the outseam your final crotch measurement, including the 3/4” ease, and place a mark.
Our crotch measurement is 11”.

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Module 4 - Drafting Pant Guidelines

Step 6B To add the crotch line, align your L square at the waist and along the outseam line.
From the waist, measure the crotch depth measurement of 10 3/4” and place a mark.

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Module 4 - Drafting Pant Guidelines

Step 6C Reposition the L square at the crotch mark/outseam intersection and square a line
for 15”, to form the back crotch line.

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Module 4 - Drafting Pant Guidelines

Step 6D Flip the L square over and square a 15” line off the outseam at the crotch mark to
form the front crotch line.

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Module 4 - Drafting Pant Guidelines

Step 7A Next we will square a line for the hip by measuring down from the waist on the out-
seam line a hip depth measurement of 9” and place a mark.

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Module 4 - Drafting Pant Guidelines

Step 7B Square a 15” line from the outseam line, at the hip mark, to form the front hipline.

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Module 4 - Drafting Pant Guidelines

Step 7C Reposition the paper and then square a 15” line off the outseam, to form the back
hipline.

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Lesson Guide Basic Pant Sloper Pattern Making: Beginner
Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 1 The first step when planning the front and back upper section of the pant is to calcu-
late the front and back body width measurement. To calculate this measurement, refer to the
“Calculations for Draft” section of the Pant Measurement Chart.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 1 Beginning with point #10, take your total Hip measurement, in our case 37”, divide
that number by 4, here our measurement is 9 ¼”. Now, subtract ¼” from that number, ours
is 9”. Add ½” of ease to that measurement to get the final Front Body Width measurement. In
this case our total is 9 ½”.
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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 2A Position the L square at the front outseam/crotchline intersection. Measure over
your Front Body Width measurement and place a mark. In this case, at 9 ½”.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 2B Reposition your L square at the crotchllne/front width mark intersection then draw a
line from the waist to the crotchline. This is your center front line.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 3A To calculate the Back Body Width measurement, refer to the “Calculations for Draft”
section of the Pant Measurement Chart, point #11, Back Body Width.
Take your total hip measurement, in our case 37”, divide that number by 4, here our mea-
surement is 9 ¼”. Now, add ¼” to that number, ours measures 9 ½”, then add ½” of ease to
that measurement to get the final width of the back waist. In this case our final total is 10”. 44
Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 3B Position the L square at the back outseam/crotchline intersection. Measure over
your back width measurement and place a mark. In this case, at 10”.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 3C Flip the L square so it aligns with the back outseam/back width mark intersection
then draw a line from the waist to the crotchline. This is your center back line.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 4A The next step is to calculate the front and back waist measurements. Begin with the
Front Waist by referring to point #12 of the Pant Measurement Chart, Calculations for Draft
section.
Take your waist circumference measurement, in our case 27”, divide that number by 4 and
record that measurement, ours measures 6 ¾”. Then add ¼” to that measurement, here
ours comes to 7”. Add 1” for dart pick-up, here we’ll record 8”, then add 3/8” ease and 47
record that final measurement. Our Front Waist measurement is 8 3/8”.
Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 4B For the Back Waist refer to point #13 of the Pant Measurement Chart, Calculations
for Draft section.
Take your waist circumference measurement, in our case 27”, divide that number by 4 and
record that measurement, ours measures 6 ¾”. Then, because the back waist is smaller than
the front, subtract ¼” from that measurement, here ours comes to 6 ½”. For the back we add
2” for dart pick-up, here we’ll record 8 ½”. Then add 3/8” ease and record that final 48
measurement. Our Back Waist measurement is 8 7/8”.
Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 4C With the L square positioned at the waistline/back width intersection, measure in ¾”
on the waistline and place a mark. This will be your new center back line.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 4D Shift the L square over to the ¾” mark on the waistline. Measure over from that
mark, your #13 final Back Waist measurement and place another mark. Ours measures 8
7/8”.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 5 So that you won’t get confused while you draft the front and back pant legs, it is good
practice to annotate the pattern with the word “Back” above the back waistline and the word
“Front” above the front waistline.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 6A With the L square positioned at the waistline/front width intersection, measure over
your #12 final Front Waist measurement and place a mark. Ours measures 8 3/8”. We will
darken the mark with our pencil and ruler.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 6B To locate the center of the dart closest to center front, position your L square at the
waist and measure over from center front your #7 Front Princess Line measurement and
place a mark. For our draft the measurement is 3 3/8”.
Square a guideline down from the mark for approximately 3”. The placement of the first waist
dart is dependent on shape of the abdomen. A fuller abdomen may benefit from a placement 53
more toward the sideseam and require only one dart.
Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 6C Measure 3” down from the waist for the dart length and mark.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 6D At the waistline, use your clear plastic ruler to measure out 1/4” first on one side of
the front waist dart and then on the other side of the dart.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 6E Then draw a ¼” perpendicular line at the dart end point.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 6F Finish the front waist dart by connecting the ¼” mark on both sides of the dart to the
dart’s vanishing point. Notice how we extend the lines past the waistline when drafting the
dart.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 6G The second dart’s centerline is measured at the waist, approximately 1 ½” away
from the center of the first dart. Place a mark.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 6H Square a guideline down from the second dart center mark at the waist, for about 4”.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 6I For the length of the second dart measure down 3” from the waist and place a mark.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 6J At the waistline measure out 1/4” on each side of the center dart line.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 6K Connect the 1/4” marks on the waist to the dart vanishing point.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 7A Next we will plan the back darts. Start by measuring over from the new center back
mark, your #8 Back Princess Line measurement and place a mark. This is the center line of
the first dart. Here our measurement is 3”.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 7B Square a line down from the back waist on the center line of the first dart for approx-
imately 5”.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 7C Measure down 4 ½” on the center line of the dart from the waist. Then mark the
vanishing point of the dart.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 7D To draft the dart pick-up, measure out ½” at the waistline on each side of the dart
centerline. Place a mark, first on one side of the center line and then on the other side of the
center line.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 7E Next, connect the ½” waist marks to the dart vanishing point, first on one side of the
dart and then on the other.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 7F The center line placement of the second back dart for this size 10 is 1 ¾” away
from the centerline of the first back dart, however, the dart placement varies according to the
figure type and increases in width by 1/8” for each larger size.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 7G Place a mark at the waist center line of the second dart and then square a line off
the waistline for approximately 4”.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 7H Measure the second dart’s length at 4” and place a mark.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 7I Draft the second dart pick-up, by measuring out 1/2” at the waistline on each side
of the dart centerline. Place a mark, first on one side of the center line and then on the other
side of the center line.

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Module 5 - Pant Upper Section

Step 7J Next, connect the ½” waist marks to the second dart’s vanishing point, first on one
side of the dart and then on the other. Once the draft is tested in muslin, the dart locations
and lengths of the dart may change.

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Lesson Guide Basic Pant Sloper Pattern Making: Beginner
Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 1A The next step is to draft the Back Crotch Extension. Begin by finding the outseam
line to the center front measurement and dividing that number in half. Record these measure-
ments on your Pant Measurement Chart under point #15. Our back hip width at the crotch
measures 10”, divided in half is 5”.
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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 1B Slide the ruler along the back crotch line and draft the back crotch by extending the
divided back hip measurement beyond the center back line. Then place a mark. Here we are
marking the back crotch extension at 5”.

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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 2A Reposition the paper in preparation for marking the Front Crotch Extension.
To calculate the Front Crotch Extension, divide the Front Body Width measurement by 4 and
record these measurements on the Pant Measurement Chart under point #14. Our front hip
width at the crotch measures 9 ½”, divided by 4 equals 2 3/8”.
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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 2B Slide the ruler along the front crotch line and draft the front crotch by extending the
divided front hip measurement beyond the center front line. Then place a mark. Here we are
marking the Front Crotch Extension at 2 3/8”.

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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 3A To establish the front crotch curve, align your L square along the center front line
and crotch line, mark a point on the inside corner of the L square.

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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 3B Draw a 2” diagonal guideline from the center front/crotch line intersection through to
the new mark.

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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 3C Position your L square and place a mark at 1 ½” away from the corner of this diago-
nal line.

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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 3D Next, position your hip curve so that it intersects the front crotch extension mark, the
diagonal line and rests on the center front.

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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 3E Check that you have connected all three points on the front crotch.

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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 4A To establish the back crotch curve, align your L square along the center back line
and crotch line then mark a point on the inside corner of the L square.

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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 4B Draw a 2 ½” diagonal guideline from the center back/crotch line intersection through
to the new mark.

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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 4C Place a mark at 2” away from the corner of this diagonal line.

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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 4D With your L square aligned with the back crotch and center back lines, place a mark
midway between the waist and the crotch, on the center back line. Here our midway point is 5
½”.

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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 4E Next, draw a straight line for the center back seam connecting the new back waist
mark, through the midway point, ending at the crotch line.

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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 4F Now we will draft the back crotch by connecting the midway point, the diagonal mark
and the back crotch line.

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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 4G Find the best position on your French curve before drawing the curved line to form
the back crotch. Notice how the French curve rests on the crotch line and does not actually
intersect with the crotch extension mark, yet forms a nice smooth curved line.

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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 5A We will now move to the center front to lower the front waist. Place a mark ¼” below
the waistline on the center front line.

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Module 6 - Pant Crotch

Step 5B For the center back, we will raise the center back waist. Place a mark ¼” above the
center back waist.

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Lesson Guide Basic Pant Sloper Pattern Making: Beginner
Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 1A To establish the grainline for the back of the pant, find the midway point on the
crotch line from the side seam to the back crotch point. Divide this measurement by 2, using
your ruler, and place a mark.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 1B Referring to your Pant Measurement Chart, point #17 Back Grainline/Creaseline, re-
cord your Back Crotch line measurement, ours measures 15”. Next, record the divided mea-
surement, in this case 7 ½”. Add ¼” to that measurement and record this final measurement.
This is the top of the back crease line. Here we’ll record our final measurement as 7 ¾”.
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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 1C Place a mark on the back crotch line at the final measurement of point #17. Again,
our measurement is 7 ¾”.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 2A Reposition the paper so that the back ankle area is in view. Place a mark on the
back ankle line, 7 ¾” over from the side seam. Annotate the ankle line by writing the word
“ankle” below the line.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 2B Next we will connect the back top crease line mark to the back ankle mark. Align
your 48” long metal ruler with the top crease line mark and the ankle mark, then draw a line
that extends beyond the waist and the ankle. This line is the grainline and crease line for the
back pant.
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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 3A Next we will find the Front Grainline/Creaseline for the front pant leg by first finding
the midway point on the front crotch line from the side seam to the front crotch point.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 3B Refer to your Pant Measurement Chart and record your point #16 Front Width
measurement, here our measures 11 7/8”. Divide that measurement by 2 and record that
measurement. Ours measures 5 15/16th. Then add ¼” to get the final measurement. In this
case we will record 6 3/16th.
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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 3C Reposition the paper to get the front ankle in view. Measuring over from the out-
seam line, place a mark on the ankle line at 6 3/16th. Darken the mark with your ruler. This
will be the bottom crease line.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 3D The next step is to connect the front crotch mark with the front ankle mark to form
the front crease line and grain line. Position your 48” long metal ruler, connecting the 2
points. Draw a line that will align with the center of the front dart and extend beyond the ankle
of the pant.
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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 4A Reposition the paper in preparation for marking the front and bottom width of the
pant. For our draft the total hem circumference will be 16”, 7 ½” wide for the front leg and 8
½” wide for the back leg.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 4B From your front ankle crease line measure over on the ankle line, half the width of
the front hem width measurement and place a mark. In our case half of 7 ½” is 3 ¾”.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 4C Now repeat this step by placing a mark using the same measurement, 3 ¾” on the
other side of the front crease line at the ankle line.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 4D Use your ruler to darken the front ankle marks so that they are at right angles to the
ankle line. These will be the ankle inseam and outseam lines for the front pant leg.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 4F Now we will draft the back ankle’s inseam and out seam, by measuring over from
the back crease line, the back hem width. Here our total back hem width is 8 ½”, half of that
is 4 ¼”.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 4G Measure over and place a mark on one side of the back crease line, here ours mea-
sures is 4 ¼”, then slide the ruler over and place a mark at the same measurement on the
other side of the crease line.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 4H Darken the front ankle marks with your ruler so that they are right angles to the an-
kle line. These will be the ankle inseam and outseam lines for the back pant leg.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 4I To customize the width of the pant leg, measurements for a wider leg are included in
the Pant Measurement Chart.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 5A Reposition the paper in preparation for completing the pant sideseams. We will start
by connecting the front outseam of the pant from the hip to the ankle. Use your 48” metal
ruler to connect the 2 points, continuing the line past the ankle line.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 5B Now we will connect the back outseam from the hip to the ankle. Position your metal
ruler at the hip and connect a line to the front ankle mark that extends beyond the ankle line.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 6A To establish the side seam curve above the hip line, place a mark 2” above the hip
line on the outseam line. Darken that mark with your ruler.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 6B Next we will connect the new front waist mark with the 2” hip mark to create the front
side seam. Position your hip curve so that the straighter end of the curve intersects the waist
mark and the fuller end rests on the outseam at the 2” mark.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 6C Now we will connect the new back waist mark to the 2” hip mark to complete the
back side seam. The back curve will be flatter than the front curve due to the wider waist
darts on the back waist. When the pants are stitched together the flat seam stitched to the
curved seam will create a better seam. If the curve were the same, the side seam would look
like jodhpurs. 112
Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 7A To establish the front inseam line, place a mark ½” in from the front crotch point.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 7B The first step will be to connect the ½” mark on the front crotch to the front inseam
ankle mark, using your 48” metal ruler.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 7C The second step is to place the curved end of your hip curve at the front crotch point
and then blend the line to the inseam line approximately 5” below the crotch point.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 8A We will repeat the process for drafting the back inseam line by first coming in ½” on
the back crotch point and placing a mark on the crotch line.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 8B With your ruler at a right angle to the crotch line, darken the ½” crotch mark.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 8C Now, we will connect the back crotch mark to the back inseam ankle mark. Use your
48” metal ruler to connect the 2 marks to complete the first step of drafting the back inseam.

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Module 7 - Pant Lower Section

Step 8D To complete the back inseam, use the curved end of your hip curve to blend a line
from the back crotch point to approximately 6” down the inseam line.

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Lesson Guide Basic Pant Sloper Pattern Making: Beginner
Module 8 - Pant Side Seam and Waist Line

Step 1A We will need to find the measurement from the front waist intersection to the 2”
mark on the side seam. Use your plastic ruler, to find and record that measurement.

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Module 8 - Pant Side Seam and Waist Line

Step 1B Now we will find the back waist to 2” side seam measurement and compare that
measurement to the front side seam measurement. Here the back side seam needs to be
raised to match the front. Mark the adjustment with a red pencil. Check again to be sure that
they both match.
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Module 8 - Pant Side Seam and Waist Line

Step 2A Next we will close the darts to true the waistline.

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Module 8 - Pant Side Seam and Waist Line

Step 2B A trick when folding darts for trueing is to first score the dart stitching line using an
awl and a ruler. Here we will score the dart line closest to center front. Be careful not to press
too hard on the awl or the paper will tear.

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Module 8 - Pant Side Seam and Waist Line

Step 2C Next, score the second front dart leg stitching line, closest to center front.

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Module 8 - Pant Side Seam and Waist Line

Step 2D Reposition the paper then score the back waist darts. Again, score the dart leg clos-
est to the center back.

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Module 8 - Pant Side Seam and Waist Line

Step 2E And finally score the second dart’s leg that is closest to center back.

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Step 3A Softly fold the draft in half with the waist facing up. Crease the paper at the vanish-
ing points of the front waist darts to make it easier to close the darts.

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Step 3B Close the first front waist dart by finger pressing the scored dart leg. Then fold the
paper at the vanishing point to close the dart. Secure the dart with a piece of tape above the
waistline.

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Step 3C Finger press the second dart the same as you did the first, along the scored dart
leg, then tape it closed above the waist.

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Step 4A Reposition the paper to now close the back darts. Crease the paper at the vanishing
points of the back waist darts to make it easier to close the darts.

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Step 4B Finger press and close the dart and dart leg, closest to center back. Tape the dart
above the waistline.

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Step 4C Then crease the vanishing point of the second dart and repeat the process of fin-
ger pressing and closing the dart leg closest to center back. Tape the dart closed above the
waistline.

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Step 5A Next, we will true the back waistline. Start by squaring a ½” line off the intersection
of the new raised center back waist and crotch line, using your clear plastic ruler and a red
pencil.

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Step 5B Now move to the front waist and repeat these steps, squaring a ½” line off the new
lowered center front waist/crotch intersection with your red pencil and ruler.

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Step 6A In preparation for trueing the waist, reposition the waist portion of the draft and gen-
tly flatten the paper with your hands.

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Step 6B We will true the center front waist to the side seam next. Position your hip curve
and blend a line, using a red pencil, from the lowered center front waist mark to the front side
seam. Notice that the waistline changes above the darts as a result. Also, be sure that the
center front/waist intersection remains a right angle.
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Step 6C Now we will true the back waist. Position the hip curve and blend a line with red
pencil connecting the raised center back waist mark to the back side seam. Once again,
notice that the waistline changes above the darts and that the center back/waist intersection
remains a right angle.
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Step 6D Reposition the draft and re-blend the waistline if you think you can improve on the
curve. Here we are re-blending the back waistline to get a better waistline shape.

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Step 6E Sandwich a smaller cutting mat in between the waistline seam and the wrong side of
the folded pant draft.

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Step 6F Next we will use our needle point tracing wheel to true from the center front waist to
the front side seam on the red pencil line.

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Step 6G Then we’ll true from the back side seam to center back, again tracing on the red
line, using the needle point tracing wheel.

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Step 7A Remove the small cutting mat from the table and carefully remove all of the holding
tape from the darts.

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Step 8A Open the draft up and then flatten the pattern on the table with your hands.

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Step 8B With your hip curve, extend the back waist dart leg lines with your red pencil follow-
ing the waistline tracing wheel marks for both of the back darts.

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Step 8C Repeat the process of trueing the dart leg lines at the waistline for both front darts,
using the red pencil and following the tracing wheel markings.

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Step 8D Next we will extend all of the dart legs with the red pencil and ruler, starting with the
back waist darts. Notice how the lines extend beyond the new waistline of each dart.

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Step 8E Move to the front pant waist and repeat the process of extending the dart leg lines
with your red pencil.

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Step 9A To establish the knee depth, align your L square with the side seam and front waist-
line. Referring to point #6 on the Pant Measurement Chart, measure and mark your Waist to
Knee measurement on the outseam line.

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Step 9B Reposition the L square and square a line off the outseam/knee mark intersection
onto the back pant leg to form the back knee guideline.

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Step 9C Reposition the paper then flip the L square over aligning it with the outseam and the
knee mark to draft the front knee guideline for the front pant leg.

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Step 10A Annotate the front pant knee by writing the word “knee line” above the knee guide-
line.

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Step 10B Reposition the draft and annotate the back pant knee writing the word “knee”
above the guideline.

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Step 10C We will also annotate the words “crotch line” above the back crotch line and the
word “hip” above the back hip line.

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Step 10D Shift the draft over and annotate the front hipline and the front crotch line.

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Step 11A The last step is to add notches to the draft. Add the first notch on the back crotch
at the reference point. Notches should always be positioned at a right angle to the seam line
and extend no more than ¼” into the seam allowance. Here we are using a ruler and red
pencil to mark the notches. Then measure up ½” and place another mark for the second
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Step 11B Next mark the front crotch notch. The front crotch gets a single notch, positioned 7”
below the waistline and again, at a right angle to the seam line.

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Step 11C Once the pant draft is completed, you can cut it out and use it as a sloper.

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Step 11D This is how to draft a pant sloper.

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