THE T R AV E L I SS U E

Summer

Like

An
Italian
( Even If You’re Not One )
CH E F ATU L KO CH H AR , JW MAR R IOT T ® MAR Q UIS ® DUBAI
®
 THE ADVENTURE THAT WILL
REPLAY IN YOUR MIND.

THE INVINCIBILIT Y YOU’LL FEEL, IF ONLY FOR A MOMENT.

ONE BEAUTIFUL, BREATHTAKING MOMENT.
I’M COLORADO. AND I’LL SHOW YOU WHAT IT’S LIKE TO BE TRULY ALIVE.
Get the guide at COLORADO.COM
 BON APPÉ TIT ‒ VOLUME 63 NUMBER 4

T H E T R AV E L I SS U E

may
F E AT U R E S

80 100
HOW TO EAT, SPRITZ O’CLOCK
DRINK, SWIM, The very best way to
SNACK, SPRITZ, cocktail on vacation.
NAP, PARTY,
102
AND SUMMER
YOU DON’T
LIKE AN ITALIAN
BY AMIEL STANEK
HAVE TO EAT
RECIPES BY AT THE TABLE
IGNACIO MAT TOS Pack some crispy
empanadas for a
84 picnic. Dig into a
MAKE sundae by the pool.
BREAKFAST AN As long as you’re
OCCASION not sitting indoors,
Mornings in paradise you’re doing it right.
begin with potent
coffee, perfectly ripe 108
fruit, and a stunning SNACK TIME
savory tart to share. Gorgonzola dip,
creamy mozzarella
90 nuggets, ripe melon
LET’S GO draped with dry-
SHOPPING cured ham—yeah,
Because when you’re you could say the
vacationing in Italy Italians get snacks.
and someone asks,
“Want to go to the 110
market?” you don’t GO BIG BEFORE
think. You just go. YOU GO HOME
Splurge on the
92 good steaks and dish
LONG. LAZY. out a decadent
LUNCH. dessert for an all-out
Your midday meal end-of-trip feast.
plan: pristine
crudo, fresh pasta, ON THE COVER

PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL GRAYDON + NIKOLE HERRIOTT. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI.

ice-cold wine, and Photograph by
a good long nap. Michael Graydon
+ Nikole Herriott.
Prop styling by
Kalen Kaminski.

DESSERT, ANYONE?
GET THE RECIPE
AT BONAPPETIT.COM
/ PA N N AC OT TA

HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT A RECIPE, OR A COMMENT? Email us at [email protected], or contact the editorial offices: Bon Appétit, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.
FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CHANGES OF ADDRESS, call 800-765-9419 (515-243-3273 from outside the U.S.A.) or email [email protected]. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
 BONAPPETIT.COM

may
T H E T R AV E L I SS U E

SPECIAL SECTION THE FEED C O LU M N S

13 66 125
THE GUIDE THE ACCIDENTAL PREP SCHOOL
Our staffers share APPRENTICE Actually good instant
the lessons that A young chef-to-be coffee, the balsamic
have made us smarter, runs off to Italy we’re drizzling
better travelers. and discovers more over everything,
than great produce. and more.
43 BY JASON HAMMEL
THE SEASON 132
Ramp fritters, custardy 71 BASICALLY
rhubarb cake, and DRINKING IN A simple stovetop
more recipes starring DHAKA frittata makes a
spring’s Most Early love blossoms meal of everything
Valuable Ingredients. on a vacation to from farmers’
RECIPES BY Bangladesh, with a market veg to last
CLAIRE SAFFITZ
bowl of peanuts night’s leftovers.
56 and a water bottle BY CLAIRE SAFFITZ
of whiskey for fuel.
THE GOODS 138
BY RUMAAN ALAM
Make some extra THE LAST BITE
room in your suitcase 74 Artist and Cake
for our travel essentials THE CAMEL TREK author Maira Kalman
(yes, we consider a Three countries, two illustrates the tasty
corkscrew essential!). decades, one Arab trip of her dreams.
delicacy: camel meat. BY CHRISTINE MUHLKE
BY ANISSA HELOU

IN EVERY ISSUE
10 editor’s letter
136 recipe index
136 sourcebook
Got some
spring cleaning on

PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL GRAYDON + NIKOLE HERRIOTT

your agenda?
Check out the Clean
Slate special on
P. 39.

LAKE COMO NAILS

THE WHOLE “VILLA
VIBES” THING.

P. 8 0
 ™

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®
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 Editor in Chief
ADAM RAPOPORT
Creative Director MICHELE OUTLAND
Deputy Editor ANDREW KNOWLTON
Food Director CARLA LALLI MUSIC Director of Editorial Operations JENNY HAIGHT
Digital Director CAREY POLIS

Editors Design Digital

Senior Projects Editor JULIA KRAMER Design Director KRISTIN EDDINGTON Senior Web Editors ALEX BEGGS,
Features Editor MERYL ROTHSTEIN Senior Designers ROSIE NABEREZNY, AMANDA SHAPIRO (HEALTHYISH),
Associate Editor CHRISTINA CHAEY ALAINA SULLIVAN AMIEL STANEK (BASICALLY)
Contributing Editorial Assistant ASHLEY MASON Senior Social Media Manager RACHEL KARTEN
Editor at Large CHRISTINE MUHLKE Photography Associate Web Editors ALEX DELANY, ALYSE WHITNEY
Entertainment Editor MAXWELL LOSGAR Senior Visuals Editor ELIZABETH JAIME Associate Social Media Manager EMILY SCHULTZ
Assistant to the Editor in Chief RYAN WALKERHARTSHORN Associate Visuals Editor EMILY EISEN Digital Recipe Editor JILL BAUGHMAN
Staff Photographers CHELSIE CRAIG, ALEX LAU Editorial Web Assistants ALIZA ABARBANEL,
Visuals Assistant EMMA FISHMAN EMMA WARTZMAN
Food
E-commerce Editor ELAHEH NOZARI
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Senior Food Editors ANDY BARAGHANI,
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8  M AY 2 018
BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT.™
 editor’s letter

N OW H E R E FAS T
You ever do that thing where you’re going a hundred miles an along. A four-and-a-half-hour drive, the GPS told us? After
hour and you don’t even realize it? about 15 minutes I stopped counting the time—or checking the
Last June my wife and I touched down in Arizona for a speedometer. Simone had to point out I was doing 103.
tenth-anniversary escape that I’m pretty sure Simone had been Taking in the expanse of Glen Canyon, twisting our way up
planning since 2007. and over cliffs, I didn’t want the drive to end. It was the oppo-
The idea was to drive from Phoenix to Sedona, spend the site of being stuck in traffic on the BQE or 495. I didn’t feel
night, and then haul across the desert and mountains and ever- trapped and anxious; I felt freed.
greens and mesas and plateaus and buttes to a dreamy resort I don’t mean to get all new agey, but by the time we reached
on the southern border of Utah. the resort, I was fully in the zone. And we quickly eased into
A couple things, though, that I wasn’t prepared for: a routine of hikes and naps and reading and sunset drinks,
(a) The heat. When we landed at 5:20 p.m., my phone told me where we’d just stare out at the canyons, with no one or noth-
it was 116 degrees outside. Do you know what 116 degrees feels ing in sight except for the occasional jackrabbit darting by.
like? It’s like when you walk out of an office building and you When I think about it, our desert fantasy couldn’t have been
think you’re getting hit in the face with steamy-hot air condi- more different from the mondo Italy extravaganza (page 80)
tioner exhaust. But it’s just the air outside. That’s 116 degrees. that headlines our annual Travel Issue. And, to be honest, that
(b) The fact that I was so zenned out, the heat didn’t even type of trip is my usual kind of getaway—lots of iced-down
bother me. wine, sprawling lunches, poolside drinks, friends at the grill. So
Which is not normal. You see, I struggle with vacations. Or, much eating that I need a vacation from my vacation.
at least, starting them. I’m restless and fidgety. I run wind And that’s what I got last June. As Simone and I packed up
sprints on the beach because I’m not sure what else to do with our crossover after five days in the desert, ready to blast our
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU

myself. It takes two days for the New Yorker in me to get lost. way back to Phoenix, I realized that this wound-up, high-speed
But as Simone and I blasted along a wide-open highway, New Yorker had finally slowed down. When your life is all
enveloped in a Georgia O’Keeffe–like palette of burnt umber about food, sometimes it’s okay to step away from the table.
and dusty sage, I wasn’t restless at all. I was just like, “Whoa.”
I had never visited the Southwest before. But there we were A DA M R A P O P O R T
in one of those crossover hatchback thingamajigs, just flying Editor in Chief

10  M AY 2 018
©2018
©20
©2 Nest
2018 Ne Waters
stlé Wate
t Amer
North Ame
Am a Inc.
merica
ca nc
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ENHANCE MOMENTS

Tastefully Italian
• NEW
NEW YO
NE YORK
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VISIT SANPELLEGRINO.COM
 The Guide
O U R T R AV E L T I P S , T R I C K S , A N D T O TA L LY S U B J E C T I V E A D V I C E

T R AV E L
SPECIAL

Rules of
the Road
When we go on
vacation, we bring
back more than
souvenirs. We return
with a bit of wisdom.
We learn that there’s
nothing wrong
with planning a trip
around croissants
(see page 28). Or
that, as you’ll see
here, some of our
favorite sightseeing
happens in the
grocery store (page
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU

30). So what else

has our staff learned
through the years?
Keep reading.
GUTTER

M A Y 2 0 1 8  13
THE GUIDE

1D O N ’ T L E AV E
THE FRIDGE
T O TA L LY B A R E
Passport, check.
DELEGATE!

If you’re
3.4-oz bottles, check. traveling with
Hunk of Parm in the a group, split
fridge—wait, what? up the work,
While I’m packing for and play
vacation, I’m already to everyone’s
planning dinner for the strengths.
night I get home. That

2
Put your hyper-
way, even if everything
in my fridge has wilted organized
while I was away, travel mate You’ll realize that not
even if I land after my in charge of everyone needs to trek an
take-out spots have hour with you to find the
compiling place the cabbie said has
closed, I can still make flight info Schedule the best pizza in Rome.
cacio e pepe. Leave How do you do it? I like
a hunk of Parm and/
and Airbnb Some to lie just a little. Say you
or Pecorino, spaghetti, addresses. Ask Alone Time have to find the perfect
souvenir, or see the Flemish
black pepper, and your fashion As an introvert Masters exhibition, or
butter. Then have a friend to find masquerading as an check in with your very
great vacation, extrovert, I love to plan demanding job. Don’t
the best local vacations with other apologize. Pick a time to
knowing you can eat boutiques. people, then promptly meet back up and make
cheesy pasta minutes If you’re food- find ways to escape. yourself scarce.
after you get home. This doesn’t always go What are you supposed
obsessed, over well with my to do by yourself? Literally
Beats Sbarro in Arrivals, companions, but over anything. The wonderful
no? TOMMY WERNER reservations the years I’ve learned thing about travel is that the

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX LAU (CACIO E PEPE); COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION (TUB)

are on you. how to do it gracefully stuff that would be boring
and with intention. if you did it at home—
Even if you claim to wandering aimlessly, eating
never tire of your best lunch, sitting on a park
friend’s shopping habit or bench and staring into
your boyfriend’s slothlike space—becomes novel
pace, stealing time for when you’re somewhere
yourself is the only way to else. Break off from the
sustain all the togetherness pack or the partner for
that travel entails. You’ll an hour and your
fight less and be more experience will be richer,
willing to compromise. your encounters more
You’ll be more patient with unexpected, and your
the picky eater and the memories more vivid. And
friend who can’t navigate unless you spend your solo
and the husband who time at the Wi-Fi hot spot,
insists on seeing every you’ll feel more present
room on every floor of the when you see their faces
very crowded museum. again. AMANDA SHAPIRO
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THE GUIDE

ND
LA
ER N
ITZ PA
SW JA

3 Rethink
Your
Souvenirs
JA
PA
N

ITA
LY

My toothbrush
infatuation started in
college on a trip to Paris.
I’d stopped at a
pharmacy along Place
Saint-Germain-des-Prés
for Tylenol when I noticed
a case of boldly colored
Bioseptyl brushes worthy
of a place in the Centre
Pompidou. I bought three. LY
K ITA
In Finland, I found a R
N MA
taxicab-yellow Hay Tann DE
brush that rests, unused,
like a statue, in a cup in
my bathroom. A simple
wood-handled binchotan
charcoal toothbrush from
Japan still reminds me
of a walk through a cedar-
built Shinto shrine in
Kyoto. For me, toothbrushes
bristle with place and
uniqueness and remind
me more of past trips than
a magnet ever could.
NY
ANDREW KNOWLTON
R MA
GE

WALK BE TWEEN DESTINATIONS

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU

You’re not going to stumble upon hidden gems if you’re always heading
from one place to another in an Uber. Walking gives you a better
sense of almost any city—and, just as important, helps you work up an
appetite for the charming tapas bar you just found.
16  M AY 2 018
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Its pollution-fighting formula is
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It fights environmental aggressors and
keeps your skin looking young for longer.
© J&JCI 2018
 5
THE GUIDE

Stu GO FOR A RUN

dio
at
Fre Running gets me outside,
e head on a swivel, taking

ha
in the architecture and

nd
,N
energy of a place. I like to

YC
plan my runs in advance,
but there’s only so much
you can glean ahead
Break a of time, so I make a point
Sweat to stop in a local run
shop to get advice about
Eat, drink, sleep, repeat. recommended routes (as
It’s fun, until it gets exhausting. well as places to get a
Which is why we love post-run coffee or snack).
a good travel workout: CLAIRE SAFFITZ

AAPTIV THE SEVENMINUTE

I’m obsessed with the WORKOUT
Aaptiv app—audio workouts Hotel gyms are depressing
with trainers and music.

4
AF. So I hide in my room
I use it at my local gym, but with the Seven-Minute
it’s my savior when I travel Workout, which targets all
and don’t know what the major muscle groups
equipment, if any, I’ll have using no more than a
access to. My favorite chair and a wall. There’s
workouts are spinning with an app, but it’s blah,
Kelly (can be accomplished so instead I bookmarked
I T ’S O K AY T O on stationary bikes from the the Scientific 7-Minute
DO NOTHING ’80s in the hotel basement), Workout video on YouTube,
but I’ve done yoga with which has much cooler
It’s not possible to Amanda on Swiffered music and animation.
Airbnb floors and a nine-
hit every place on minute ab burn with Sultan
CHRISTINE MUHLKE

your list. So don’t even in my brother’s guest room

try. That desire to visit too.  A L E X B E G G S
30 different spots is
T R AV E L
also what makes you WITHOUT DATA
end vacation more
tired than when you
began. Which is why No amount of
I always carve out sunrise yoga or
do-nothing time.
trips to the spa
Maybe that means
sleeping late, having will give you
a leisurely breakfast, the same sense
and actually reading of relaxation
the books I schlepped. and mental
Or I’ll have an early quiet that
dinner at the one
disconnecting
restaurant I really want
to try, then head back does. Commit
to the hotel, rock the to trying a
complimentary robe, couple days off
and watch whatever the grid—or at
PHOTOGRAPH BY ERIC MEDSKER

awesomely bad movie least as long as

happens to be on TV. it takes you to
Nothing says vacation
stop reflexively
like She’s All That.
reaching for
GUTTER

CAREY POLIS
your phone.
18  M AY 2 018
solicitation in any jurisdiction where we are not authorized to do business. TD Ameritrade, Inc., member FINRA/SIPC. © 2017 TD Ameritrade.
THE GUIDE

Make Yourself a Regular

Even if it’s just for a few days

I T W A S T H E F I R S T O N T H E PA G E S  L O N G list of recommenda- We make such a big deal about breadth when traveling, the
tions we took with us to Oaxaca City: “three ladies underneath a sheer number of restaurants we’re able to geotag from, that we
canvas tarp at the corner of Jesús Carranza and Calle de Manuel sometimes forget about depth. But grabbing a different pastry
García Vigil.” One woman took orders; another grabbed handfuls from the same bakery every morning, or sipping espresso on a
of freshly made masa dough, pressed them into thick disks, and bench outside of one coffee shop every afternoon, or becoming a
slapped them onto the surface of a charcoal-heated clay comal; regular at a friendly local bar, even if it’s just for a week, can be
and the third tended to the tortillas as they got speckled with char, more meaningful than—and just as satisfying as—hitting all the
flipping and topping them with spoonfuls of lard, beans, fresh “must-trys” on so-and-so’s Best Of list.
cheese, and toppings ranging from ruddy-colored chorizo crum- We visited the Three Ladies every single day of that trip, very
bles to pork-stuffed poblano chiles, wild mushrooms to strips of much at the expense of the countless other taquerias and mezcal
fresh green cactus. bars and mole joints that were on our list. But the thing is, when I
After our first bites—the blistered corn dough fresher and earth- look back on that vacation, I never find myself waxing regretful
ier and more complex than anything we had ever tasted back in the about all the places that we could have tried. I just remember the
States—we looked at each other and immediately understood that smiles on our new friends’ faces when the Americans came back
there were a lot of places on that pages-long list that we weren’t for a fifth time—and every perfect bite of all those tacos, memelas,
going to get to. and empanadas. A M I E L S T A N E K
PHOTOGRAPH BY PEDEN + MUNK

Grabbing a different pastry from the same bakery every morning or

sipping espresso on a bench outside of one coffee shop every afternoon can be
more meaningful than hitting all the “must-trys” on so-and-so’s Best Of list.

2 0  M AY 2 018
©HDIP, INC
THE GUIDEUNFILTERED

TAKE A TRIP
TO THESE
U N E X P E C T E D LY
AWESOME
WINE
COUNTRIES

Austria

Czech Republic

Georgia

Greece

Mexico

Slovakia

Sorry, Dorothy, but countryside and you don’t and the cuisine with every
you’re not in your know any of the producers, sip. “Terroir” may feel like
supermarket’s wine aisle you don’t know any of an abstract thing from your
anymore. You’re halfway the grapes, and you couch, but it’s tangible
around the world, and you definitely don’t know how when you can taste the
didn’t travel this far to drink to pronounce any of it. landscape you drove
the same wines you keep These local wines are through that day. And the
in your fridge back home. often small-production golden pairing rule of
Instead of flipping through gems that people in the “where it grows, it goes”
the wine list for something States haven’t even heard is golden for a reason: The
familiar when traveling of (outside of the regional wines go with
internationally, throw conversations you’re going the regional food, and no
caution to the wind and to have about how you matter what excuse you
PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX GROSSMAN

ask for a local wine. This discovered the best wines gave your partner for
is easy when you’re in of your life in some random this vacation, we both know
Burgundy and know your village). And beyond you’re there for the food.
way around some Pinot, exposing you to exciting Be there for the wine too.
but you should also do it unknown bottles, native Because there’s nothing
when it’s not easy, like wines also give you insight better than exploring
when you’re in the Czech into the land, the culture, a place through taste.

2 2  M AY 2 018
THE GUIDE

8 Not All
Group Tours
Are Lame
UPDATE YOUR
I T I N E R A RY

As soon as
I used to think I was you get home
too good a traveler for (or mid-vacation
tour groups. But after
weaving around Hoi An, if you’re
Vietnam, on Vespas feeling really
with Vespa Adventures
(vespaadventures.com), ambitious),
I realized that people write down all
who do this for a living BELIEVE IN
know better than I do and the highlights—
can offer access to places restaurants, GOOGLE MAPS HOW TO MAKE
I would never stumble
across on my own. Through shops, hikes— It’s hard to YOUR OWN MAP

its Countryside and Islands that weren’t remember the days

Explorers tour, I met local when I traveled with a
mat weavers, shipbuilders, on your original Go to maps.google
manila folder packed .com. In the menu,
and rice-cracker makers, itinerary. with printouts and a
then ate lunch at an click Your Places.
unnamed beach restaurant You can’t send clumsily folded map.
that served sweet, briny your friends to Now I use Google
clams with scallions and Click Maps, then
chiles. And because it the cool Korean Maps to plot my daily Create Map.
was a small group tour— bakery you itinerary for maximum
this is key! I like to keep efficiency. It helps me
it to fewer than eight— discovered in Search the spot you
plan the best routes—
we didn’t cause a scene Santa Fe if you have in mind, then
everywhere we went. I can see which places click Add to Map.
And we definitely didn’t forget about it. are near each other— If you’d like, click
have to wear matching the style icon to
oversize T-shirts. — C . P.
and clicking on each color-code the pin.
pin provides opening
hours and other key
info. You can use Repeat as necessary.
different colors for
each type of place Name your map.
(hotel, coffee, etc.) or
create layers for each
To access it offline,
day. Most important,
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION

open your phone’s

I save it offline so that Google Maps app,
I don’t have to use and when you’re still
precious data on Wi-Fi, click Your
Places in the menu.
roaming. And later, Hit Maps, then select
when friends ask me your desired map.
where to go for, say, In the menu, go to
Offline Maps, click
pastries in Austin, I just Custom Map, and
send them a link.  C . M . your map will appear.
Hit Download.

2 4  M AY 2 018
L U X U R Y
P E R F O R M A N C E
P A S S I O N

Artisan Fire Pizza Oven by Kalamazoo 888 809 0514

Crafted without compromise kalamazoogourmet.com
THE GUIDE

Taos Pueblo, New Mexico @catsthatattack; Du Pain et des Idées, Paris @emilyeisen; Caló des Moro, Majorca, Spain @elle_jaime

PHOTOGRAPHS: KRISTIN EDDINGTON (PUEBLO); EMILY EISEN (PASTRY); ELIZABETH JAIME (CALÓ DES MARO); CARLA LALLI MUSIC (SANTA TERESA); ALEX
LAU (HONG KONG); NICOLE FRANZEN (BARCELONA); PIA RIVEROLA (PALM); EMMA FISHMAN (OCTOPUS); MERYL ROTHSTEIN (ARIZONA)
Santa Teresa, Costa Rica @lallimusic; New Kowloon, Hong Kong @yungbludlau; Satan’s Coffee Corner, Barcelona @nicole_franzen

Colima, Mexico @piariverola; Octopus drying in Oia, Greece @emmafishman; Antelope Canyon, Arizona @merylrothstein

I N S TA G R A M I S T H E U L T I M AT E VA C AT I O N P L A N N E R

10
The first thing I do after buying a plane ticket is hop on Instagram—not to fantasize but to find
recommendations. I’m on the hunt for those ’grammers who post the kinds of photos that inspire spontaneous
airfare purchases (people other than me might call them influencers). They may be compensated to publicly
promote specific places, but I’ve found them to be surprisingly real behind the shield of direct message.
(How to find them? Search the destination under Tags and scroll until you find something breathtaking.)
I found out about the incredible Hörgshlíðarlaug hot springs in Iceland from @thenycelander, an NYC
transplant in Reykjavik. I added kayaking in an Alaskan glacial lake to my bucket list thanks to photographer
@alexstrohl. A DM on how much you like their work and how you’d love to hear about their favorite spots
in (insert destination here) could lead to the highlight of your trip.  E R I K A OW E N

2 6  M AY 2 018
CAFFÈ LATTE
K-CUP® PODS

Easy. Delicis.
Anytime.

INTRODUCING NEW WHITE CHOCOLATE MOCHA

ALSO AVAILABLE IN CARAMEL, MOCHA & VANILLA

© 2018 Starbucks Coffee Company. All rights reserved.

THE GUIDE

11
Tartine’s
beloved
croissants

Build Your Trip Around Croissants

The case for letting pastries shape your itinerary

I W E N T T O S A N F R A N C I S C O in 2013 with my then ten-year-old Our mission gave our days structure, and we stuck to a steady
son Leo to eat, no qualms about it. I could no longer resist the con- food-culture-culture-food rhythm, heading out with intention and then
stant stream of media fanfare about the “scene.” There were local converting our high-fat, high-carb diet into spontaneous detours. On
culinary heroes (Danny Bowien; Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasin- the way to Craftsman and Wolves, where the ham-and-cheese was a
ski), destination-worthy neighborhood spots (Outerlands), third- solid B+, we wandered into a cool taxidermy and artifacts store. We
wave coffee beaneries (Sightglass, Ritual), and the bakeries. So. followed B. Patisserie’s spectacular kouign-amann with a long walk
Many. Bakeries. At the time, the city was even becoming famous for to Golden Gate Park, descending from hot and sunny San Francisco
its toast. Toast! spring weather to cold, wet, and windy San Francisco spring weather.
Our first stop was the mecca of Tartine Bakery in the Mission, There were no pins on my Google map for the moments I remem-
where jet lag got us there before a line had formed. We picked out ber most clearly: the night we stayed in and read graphic novels
the famous morning bun, a ham-and-cheese croissant (the pain au because we were too full for dinner; the albino alligator at the Cali-
jambon), and a chocolate croissant. Also a quiche and some still- fornia Academy of Sciences; Leo jumping the dunes at Ocean
warm brioche bread pudding, because you just never know! The Beach; chatting with strangers in line at Swan Oyster Depot; walk-
bun certainly lived up to the hype, but Leo deemed the pain au jam- ing the hairpin turns on Lombard Street. We needed a point A and
bon the “winner,” and on the spot the two of us decided to compare a point B—and the next croissant was as good a destination as
it with every other ham-and-cheese croissant we encountered over any—but the trip ended up being about everything that happened
the next five days. in between.  C A R L A L A L L I M U S I C
PHOTOGRAPH BY AUBRIE PICK

Our mission gave our days structure, and we stuck to a steady food-
culture -culture -food rhythm, heading out with intention and then converting
our high-fat, high-carb diet into spontaneous detours.

2 8  M AY 2 018
WH O WOR E I T B E ST ?

TORT E L LI N I
with pesto

R AV I O L I
with pesto

F R E S H I S ALWAYS I N S T Y L E

Buitoni freshly made pasta and sauce available

in your grocer’s refrigerated aisle.

BUITONI.COM
THE GUIDE

13 Hit Up the
Grocery
Store
If you sent 20 members
of the Bon Appétit staff
to different destinations
around the globe, it
wouldn’t matter if one
was in Tel Aviv, one in
Montevideo, and another

12
in Chengdu, we’d all
end up at the same place:
about Coffee, the the supermarket. It’s our
raddest, yes, own brand of culinary
coffee shop in town. anthropology. Want to
really know what makes a
And thanks to an country’s belly growl?
Instagram message The creatively Take a spin up and down
named
from a local writer, the aisles and you’ll find
Coffee shop
out that Norway has a
I walked through in Zurich.
thing for brown cheese,
Plan an the city’s red-light Portugal will put any
Unplanned district (with creature under the sea in a
can, and in Thailand there
totally wholesome
Day intentions). I sat at
seems to be a different
style of fish sauce for every
I’m not the same a wicker sidewalk dish. Supermarkets offer
person on the last two-top at Bar 63 a window into locals’ day-
to-day lives—something
day of vacation as for a pint of even the best museums and
I was on the first. Brasserie des monuments simply can’t.
I know more—I’ve Franches-Montagnes A .K.

walked by cool- saison. After

looking shops and noticing two chefs
bars, I’ve gotten planning the night’s
locals’ tips on menu earlier in the
neighborhoods and day, I decided to
restaurants worth end my night at
checking out. So I Gamper Restaurant
always leave the with bottles of
PHOTOGRAPHS: PASCAL GROB (COFFEE); ALEX LAU (LEONE)

final day of my trip Swiss natural wine,

open to explore charcoal-grilled
the places I didn’t lamb, and (easily)
know about back the best meal of my
when I was planning trip. None of this
my itinerary. was on my agenda,
Last summer, a but that’s what
friend who saw I you get when you
was in Zurich gave don’t plan a thing.
me a heads-up
GUTTER

ALEX DELANY

C O N T I N U E S O N PAG E 3 5
3 0  M AY 2 018
 1988.
The retirement plan began
over two cups of black
coffee. Not by coincidence,
it was toasted with a
30-year-old single malt in
2018.

A toast-worthy plan does more than ensure you can maintain your lifestyle, now and well into the future. It also helps you
prepare for what’s next. Whether that’s managing your legacy with a well-crafted estate plan or making the most of charitable
giving. A Raymond James advisor can lay the groundwork with your fulfilling next chapter in mind. L I F E W E L L P L A N N E D.

W E A LT H M A N A G E M E N T | BANKING | C A P I TA L M A R K E T S

L I F E W E L L P LA N N E D . CO M

© 2018 Raymond James & Associates, Inc., member New York Stock Exchange/SIPC. | Raymond James Financial Services, Inc., member FINRA/SIPC. Raymond James
Bank, member FDIC. Raymond James® and LIFE WELL PLANNED® are registered trademarks of Raymond James Financial, Inc. Investment products are: not deposits,
not FDIC/NCUA insured, not insured by any government agency, not bank guaranteed, subject to risk and may lose value.
 CAN’T COOK? NO PROBLEM.

e a t b as ically. co m • @bas ica l l y • A new b ra nd f ro m B o n A p p éti t

 THE GUIDE

PA PAW O I N T M E N T

14
I was introduced to this
wonder in Australia. It’s
made from papayas, and
it’s good for seemingly
everything: mosquito bites,
sunburns, cuts, and more.
(Lucas’ Papaw ointment,
$10; amazon.com)

GARLIC PILLS
To keep my immune system
Rethink the strong and prevent stomach
bugs, I take a daily capsule
First-Aid Kit beginning two weeks
Nothing has the ability before the trip and continue
to compromise an to do so until I get home.
(Garlic capsules,
adventure like immune-
$18; eclecticherb.com)
system failure. I’m kind of
a nut when it comes to GRAPEFRUITSEED
supplements (my nickname EXTRACT
is the Healer Dealer!), so I use a few drops
I always pack preemptive in my drinking water to
and reactive strategies to kill bacteria. This stuff
block any bad vibes. Here’s is strong—follow
what’s in my carry-on. package directions!
 N A N CY J O I ACO I (Grapefruit-seed extract,
$16; nutribiotic.com)

PROBIOTICS
I figure foreign food
will have foreign bacteria,
so I take friendly bacteria
to keep my gut happy.
(Dr. Tobias Probiotics Deep
Immune, $24; amazon.com)

E L E C T R O LY T E S
Tastes like Kool-Aid but
with no sugar. I add the
individual packets to
my water bottle to stay
hydrated throughout the
day. (Ultima Replenisher,
$20; amazon.com)

SOOTHING DIGESTION
This has two simple
Never thought ingredients: slippery elm
that “fresh bark and licorice root.
fermented fruit” I take it with meals
would become to keep things moving.
a member of (Soothing Digestion Formula,
our traveling $32; drchristophers
doctor’s kit herbshop.com)

BE A TEE TOTALER (JUST FOR A LIT TLE WHILE)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU

Don’t drink alcohol on an overnight flight or on the first day of a trip that
takes you across multiple time zones. Yes, it takes superhero powers to
refrain from a Campari and soda on the afternoon of your arrival in Milan,
but if you do, you’ll give your body the strength to fight jet lag on its own.
M AY 2 018  3 5
THE GUIDE

15 Mary Poppins
took her wards
on magical
adventures.
Alex Beggs’
ward took
her to Delhi.

Be a Nanny, See the World

In praise of the unexpectedly globe-trotting gig

A L L T H AT M AT T E R S I N N A N N Y I N G is that you’re not wanted by naan, and sometimes naan filled with rice. There was no way he’d
the FBI and that the kid likes you. I couldn’t cook, speak French, or budge to try a bite of my dal, which was the first time I’d ever had
drive. But I could play Sorry! for hours, embellish bedtime stories, lentils to my knowledge. While Henry played with the automatic
use a microwave, and create an imaginary drive-through McDon- door of the bathroom in the Jules Verne (le sigh, the restaurant atop
ald’s in the bathtub. Which is how I became less Henry’s babysitter the Eiffel Tower), I ate a Michelin-starred meal in a T-shirt and jeans.
and more his well-paid, kind-of-weird big sister. Wherever we traveled, I’d haul a snack bag filled with fruit leath-
My parents had dropped me off at NYU with $100 on a debit ers, Goldfish, peanut butter pretzels, and Luna bars that was as
card, wished me luck, and flew home to Houston. Through a rich important as my passport. Henry’s world remained familiar and
friend of a rich friend, I got hooked up with the best babysitting gig covered in cheese powder while mine opened up. With him by my
in New York. Parents who were loving, funny, and generous, and a side—except for that time I lost him in Guayaquil, Ecuador, for five
five-year-old boy with a passion for pizza and the AirTrain at JFK. minutes (we found him in a pirate-ship-themed bar)—I saw more of
Together we traveled the New York subway—and then the world. the world than I ever would have in my life before or after. I started
Somehow they got invited by rich friends to join their vacations, to suspect his parents brought me along because they knew this too.
and so I got invited to be the nanny who stayed on the yacht to swim So what lesson can you glean from all this? It’s nice work if you
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION

in the pool with the kid instead of visiting boring museums. (Yes, the can get it, traveling the world and getting paid to watch cartoons in
yacht had a pool. And a chef who made us sushi with chicken in it.) hotel beds. But everybody grows up, and memories blur into one
In Saint Petersburg, the Galápagos, Paris, and Delhi, Henry ate long bumpy descent onto the tarmac, so make sure to take a note-
a bland variety of buttered pasta, scrambled eggs, rice, croissants, book. Oh, and that snack bag. A . B .

With Henry by my side —except for that time I lost him in Guayaquil, Ecuador—
I saw more of the world than I ever would have in my life before or after.

3 6  M AY 2 018
PREMIUM ORGANIC TEA. EXQUISITE INGREDIENTS. EXTRAORDINARY TASTE.
Also available in these flavors:
Strawberry & Garden Mint • Spiced Chai • Wild Blackberry & Sage • Fuji Apple & Ginger
©2018 PURE LEAF, the PURE LEAF logo and the TEA HOUSE COLLECTION logo are registered trademarks of the Unilever Group of Companies used under license.
THE GUIDE OM
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PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. ILLUSTRATIONS BY GEORGE WYLESOL. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
S
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16Always Pack Some Incense

If you travel enough, three things will happen at some point: Your flight will be inexplicably, infuriatingly canceled; you will eat
something at an airport you will never forgive yourself for; and you will stay in a hotel that, let’s just say, doesn’t vibe with your sense of
smell. I can’t help you with the first two, but for the latter, there’s a reason that I always travel with incense. No, I’m not talking about
the overly smoky, fake patchouli-scented sticks your college roommate burned during her Phish phase but rather the subtle, almost candle-
like scent from smaller incense that I burn in my home after frying chicken or sautéing salmon. And if it can rid my apartment of that fishy
smell, even the worst hotel room doesn’t stand a chance.  A . K .

3 8  M AY 2 018
 MAKING ROOM FOR INSPIRATION
AND CREATIVIT Y IN YOUR LIFE

CLEAN
SLATE
PHOTOGRAPHS BY BILL GENTLE

Former Glamour Editor in Chief Cindi Leive appreciates

a serene writing space in her Brooklyn home.

B R O U G H T TO YO U B Y C L O R O X
C L E A R S PA C E ,
CLEAR MIND

by Cindi Leive
Former Editor in Chief, Glamour

YOU KNOW THOSE PEOPLE YOU

SEE HUNCHED OVER IN THE For Leive, a tidy
CORNERS OF COFFEE SHOPS table in a quiet
space helps jump-
OR AIRPORT LOUNGES, oblivious to start productivity.
the world outside? I find them—and their
laser focus—inspiring. Just the idea that
you could write the Great American Novel
(or business plan) while the cappuccino
machine roars three feet from your head
and a toddler angrily throws biscotti at
her harried father next to you feels like
a testament to the human capacity for
getting things done. Those people
are amazing!
But I am not one of those people. I’ve
always craved a more peaceful place to work.
When I was eight years old, I remember
marching irately to the front of my third-
grade classroom and demanding that Mrs.
Horner silence the din raging around us so
I could finish my writing assignment. “You’ll
just have to figure out how to live with the
noise,” she said. Her point was clear: The Leive’s favorite
world was loud (and messy!), and I needed writing nook is
to adapt. free of any
Gradually, I did—by finding oases of distracting clutter.
quiet, clean and calm wherever I could. As
a teenager, the early-morning hours were
my friend: I could get more done in the still
minutes before the sun rose than I could in was a weekend or evening when I could clear pets has stilled and I can just…think. Virginia
an entire afternoon of studying with friends. the kitchen table and be alone with my words. Woolf famously observed that in order to
In college, I loved my loud dorm, but when I used to be faintly embarrassed about my write, a woman must have a room of her
PHOTOGRAPHS BY BILL GENTLE

I needed to work, I fled to one specific, tidy need for a well-organized, clean workspace to own. A room is nice, but for me a dining
carrel on the second floor of the library, get things done—we live in the age of open room table or comfy couch will do—as long
where no one made a peep and perfect oices and bustling co-working environments as the space is clear, the phone’s on silent
sunlight streamed through the window. And and, yes, coffee-shop novelists. But the truth and the dog’s asleep.
early in my career as a journalist, the bustle is that my best work is still done either in Mrs. Horner was right. The world is noisy
of a newsroom was great for spitballing with forced-quiet zones like airplanes, or in my and messy. I’m happy to report that I’ve
colleagues, but what I most needed to write home when the noise of two kids and three learned to adapt.
 PRODUCED BY BON APPÉTIT WITH CLOROX

C O O K I N G U P C R E AT I V I T Y
Ellen Bennett is the founder of Hedley & Bennett, a collection of high-quality chef gear
and accessories. She explains how a clean kitchen can help you cook up great things.

I USED TO BE A LINE COOK AT A could make people feel the same sense of to get messy! It’s totally OK and part of
TWO MICHELIN-STAR RESTAURANT empowerment in the kitchen, I could change the fun. There are few things I love more
IN LOS ANGELES. In the kitchen, something deeper in the culinary world than than being in my kitchen and having six
everything had to be perfect and in its just uniforms. different things going on the stovetop. I’m
proper place. You’d open the drawers and all You don’t have to be a professional chef simultaneously cutting up a loaf of bread,
of the mise en place was labeled, everything to dress and act like one. I cook at home all making sure my guests have drinks in hand,
had a home. So much thought and care was the time, and the very first thing I do is ready and then I pop back to my stove and make
being put into producing this beautiful food, my “station,” as they say in restaurants. sure everything is humming along. Finally,
but the people making it (myself included) When you start by cleaning your work when the meal is ready, I set the table and
looked pretty shoddy. I quickly realized, space, setting up your tools, laying out your gather whoever is in attendance. Whether in
because we didn’t feel good in our uniforms, ingredients, and getting yourself ready, a restaurant or in your own home, the feeling
PHOTOGRAPHS BY BILL GENTLE

we didn’t have pride in the food we were you’re making the space for creativity. of bringing that completed meal to the table
making. I wanted to fix that. A clean kitchen to me is what a blank is a darn good one. Bon appétit.
When you wear a clean outfit you feel white canvas is to an artist. When I have By Ellen Bennett
confident in, you hold your head up higher. everything clean before diving into the meal,
ASK ALEXA
I wanted to make aprons that gave people I can fully focus on the preparation, and the
the same empowered feeling. I wanted food is that much better.
people to feel awesome. I thought if I Once you start cooking, allow yourself
Clean
is the beginning.

What comes next is everything.

 The Season T H E S P R I N G I N G R E D I E N TS W O R T H F LY I N G F O R

T R AV E L
SPECIAL

Finally:
Spring!
Candy-like sugar
snap peas piled
high in a fresh
raw salad. Ramps
battered and fried
into light and airy
fritters. The produce
this time of year
is so fresh and
pristine, we’d jump
on a plane for it.
But where to go?
We ask chefs who
actually travel
for the good stuff.
recipes by
CLAIRE SAFFITZ

P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU M AY 2 018  4 3
 THE SEASON  SUGAR SNAP PEAS

OH, SNAP PEA!

“In 2012 I had dinner at the Willows Inn on Lummi Island, Washington.
Afterward, chef Blaine Wetzel snuck us into the gardens late at
night, and we started walking around with a flashlight and tasting
things. I had the most incredible sugar snap peas I’ve ever eaten,
with the most tender and sweet blossoms.”  D A N K L U G E R , L o r i n g P l a c e , N Y C

SUGAR SNAP
PEA SALAD

Whisk ¾ cup
buttermilk, 3 Tbsp.
plain whole-milk
Greek yogurt,
2 Tbsp. fresh lemon
juice, 1 finely grated
small garlic clove,
and a large pinch
of kosher salt
in a medium bowl.
Toss 8 oz. sugar
snap peas, strings
removed, thinly
sliced, 2 Tbsp.
olive oil, and 1 tsp.
finely grated lemon
zest in another
medium bowl; season
with flaky sea
salt and pepper.
Pour dressing into
a shallow bowl and
pile peas in the
center. Drizzle with
more oil and top with
more pepper and
lemon zest. 4 servings

If you can
find them, use
tender first-
of-the -year
peas in this raw
salad; they can
get starchy
and tough later
in the season.
 Melt their
hearts.

© 2018 Kraft Foods

 THE SEASON  RAMPS

A+ ALLIUMS

“Ramps are this

RAMP
highly sought- FRITTERS

after ingredient, Whisk 1 cup

all-purpose flour,
but people ¾ cup rice flour,
1 tsp. baking
in Appalachia powder, 1 tsp. sugar,
and 1 tsp. kosher
don’t eat salt in a large bowl.
Make a well in the
them because center and pour in
¾ cup club soda and
they’re cool ¾ cup light beer;
whisk until smooth.
or hip; they’re Fold in 10 oz. ramps,
cut into 1" pieces
just a part of (about 5 cups).
Pour vegetable oil
life here . If you (about 6 cups) into a
large cast-iron skillet
find a ramp Turn to Prep
School, p. 125,
fitted with a deep-
fry thermometer to
patch, you don’t for step-by-step
instructions on
come 1" up sides and
heat over medium-
tell anybody how to clean,
trim, and store
high until thermometer
registers 350°.
about it—those spring’s most
fleeting alliums. Working in batches,
place ¼-cup mounds
are yours to of batter in skillet;
press down lightly
sell or eat. I’ve to flatten and
submerge. Fry,
got about ten turning once, until
fritters are golden
spots throughout brown, about
4 minutes total.
Tennessee and Transfer to paper
towels to drain;
season with salt.
North Carolina Serve with
PHOTOGRAPH BY TED CAVANAUGH

lemon wedges for

that I visit every squeezing over.
Makes about 20
year with some
of my cooks.”
 T R AV I S M I L T O N ,
M i l t o n ’s , S a i n t P a u l , V A

4 6  M AY 2 018
 ROUGH
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RIDERS And they’re all waiting to
celebrate San Antonio’s
Tricentennial.
y be rediscovered. Plan your trip
at VisitSanAntonio.com.
RIVER
WALKERS

visitsanantonio.com
THE SEASON  RHUBARB

TICKLED PINK RHUBARB melted unsalted

CUSTARD CAKE butter, ¼ cup
“Ever since I moved to London in Butter and flour
sour cream, 2 Tbsp.
dark rum, and
2004, I’ve been obsessed with ‘forced’ a 9"-diameter
springform pan.
2 tsp. finely grated
lemon zest. Add dry
Whisk 1 cup all-
rhubarb, which is grown in sheds purpose flour,
ingredients and fold
until smooth; scrape
¾ tsp. baking
completely in the dark and harvested powder, and
into prepared pan.
Arrange 12 oz.
½ tsp. kosher salt
by candlelight so the stalks never in a medium bowl.
rhubarb stalks over
batter, trimming as
Whisk 2 large eggs, needed to fit. Sprinkle
have a chance to turn green and 1 large egg yolk, cake with sugar and
and 1½ cups sugar bake in a 350° oven
instead become a gorgeous hot pink. in a large bowl until until golden brown,
very pale and thick, 45–55 minutes.
People go crazy for it here.” about 1 minute. Transfer pan to a wire
Whisk in 4 Tbsp. rack and let cake
CL AIRE PTAK, Violet Baker y, London cool 10 minutes.
Slide a knife around
sides to loosen;
unmold. Slide cake
onto rack and let
finish cooling.
D O A H E A D : Cake
can be baked
1 day ahead. Store
tightly wrapped
at room temperature.
8 servings
T H E S E A S O N  A S PA R AG U S

THE FINEST STALKS

BLISTERED
A S PA R AG U S
“A few years ago I was Heat 2 Tbsp.
in a tiny town called vegetable oil in a
large skillet over
Ostuni, working on medium-high. Cook
12 oz. asparagus,
trimmed, tossing
a cookbook about the often, until bright
green, blistered
food of Italy’s Puglia in spots, and tender,
about 5 minutes.
region. We met a local Season with salt and
transfer to a plate.
forager who showed Remove seeds from
1 Fresno chile and
us how to pick wild finely chop. Stir chile,
2 Tbsp. soy sauce,
asparagus, which is 1 Tbsp. fresh lime
juice, 1 tsp. honey,
long, thin, and spindly. 1 tsp. toasted
sesame oil, and
For the rest of the trip, 1 tsp. finely grated
peeled ginger in
it was our little treat a small bowl. Mix in
2 Tbsp. crushed
at the end of the day. salted, dry-roasted
peanuts and
We’d boil and dress 2 Tbsp. toasted
unsweetened
the stalks with lemon shredded coconut
and spoon over
and a bit of oil and asparagus. 4 servings

eat them with supper,

rationing them out
among all of our plates.”
ANNA JONES,
a u t h o r, A M o d e r n W a y t o C o o k

If your
asparagus has
very thick
stalks, peel
the bottom third
after snapping
off the ends.

5 0  M AY 2 018
SANDWICHES CAN’T RESIST
THE GREAT TASTE OF HEINZ
Upgrade to Deliciously Creamy
HEINZ Real Mayonnaise
THE SEASON  RASPBERRIES

MERRY BERRIES

“It wasn’t until I went berry picking

on Sauvie Island in Oregon and
tasted raspberries right off the vine
in the warm sun that I understood
that they are actually incredibly sweet
and not the sour firm things you find
at the grocery store. They’re the reason
I moved to the Pacific Northwest.”
BONNIE MORALES, Kachka, Por tland, OR
RASPBERRY
JAM
WITH BITTERS

Place a small
plate in the freezer.
Bring 18 oz. fresh
raspberries (about
5 cups), 1¼ cups
sugar, 1 Tbsp. finely
grated orange zest,
2 Tbsp. fresh orange
juice, and 2 Tbsp.
fresh lemon juice to
a simmer in a large
saucepan, stirring
gently until sugar is
dissolved. Increase
heat and boil,
frequently skimming
foam from surface,
until reduced by a
little more than a third
and bottom of pot is
visible when stirring,
15–20 minutes.
Dab a tablespoonful

FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK

of jam onto frozen
plate and freeze
1 minute. Drag
a finger through jam
to see if surface
wrinkles. If it does,
remove saucepan
from heat and stir in
1 Tbsp. Angostura
bitters. (If jam
doesn’t wrinkle, keep
cooking, testing every
minute, until it does.)
Transfer jam to
a 1-pint jar, cover,
and let cool. Chill
until ready to use.
D O A H E A D : Jam can
be made 2 months
ahead. Keep chilled.
Makes about 1 pint
GRAND ENOUGH FOR YOUR
BEST PEOPLE AND THEIR
BIGGEST IDEAS.
 1

3
 ©2018 Crystal Cruises, LLC. Ships’ registries: The Bahamas and Malta.
T H E WO R L D O F C R Y S TA L®

ILLUMINATES
E VERY JOU R N E Y

Beyond destinations. Past expectations.

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 The Goods
P R O D U C T S W E ’ D N E V E R L E AV E H O M E W I T H O U T

You Can’t
(Cork)screw
This Up
My favorite places to
drink wine are invariably
also places where I’m
not really supposed to be
drinking. Nothing makes
me feel more like a truant
teenager than sipping pét-
nat in the park, cold rosato
on the beach, or Savagnin
in a crowded movie theater.
Which is why I keep a
cheap two-step wine key
stashed in almost every tote,
backpack, and coat pocket.
(But I keep it in a checked
bag when flying.) It doesn’t
have to be fancy. I buy
mine in bulk online for a few
bucks and distribute them
liberally throughout the
nooks and crannies of my
life. Because having the
truly inspired idea to take
a good bottle on a hike—
what the hell else are you
supposed to do when you
get to the top?!—and then
finding yourself with nothing
to open it with? Yeah. Be
prepared.  A M I E L S TA N E K
Waiter’s Corkscrew, $7;
makobarware.com

T R AV E L
SPECIAL

5 6  M AY 2 018 P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU
THE GOODS  BOT TLES
2

Drink Up
Stay hydrated on a road trip.
Sip the absolute coldest water
after yoga. Brew your own
tea. No item is more useful or
versatile than the water bottle

HOT & COLD GLASS 32 OZ. NARROW MOUTH BOT TLE, $ 11 E A C H

BOT TLE, $48

3 4

Z O J I R U S H I 16 O Z .
INSUL ATED MUG, $40

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& FILTER BOT TLE, $60

1  2  3  4  5 
Brew loose leaf tea right The BPA-free plastic Carry a little or a lot in The vacuum insulation A discreet built-in filter
in the tumbler thanks called Tritan makes them these colorful collapsible keeps liquids cold or purifies drinking water
to its embedded strainer. nearly indestructible. silicone vessels. hot for nearly six hours. in just 15 seconds.
shopsiggnorthamerica.com nalgene.com quebottle.com target.com thegrayl.com

5 8  M AY 2 018
The key to a great salad isn’t how
it’s mixed. It’s what you mix.
GOYA® Chick Peas are ChefsBest® Excellence Award winners, but you don’t have to be a chef
to create impressive dishes with them. Each of our US #1 Grade* beans is perfectly whole and

GOYA® Chick Peas, the perfect ingredient for Real-Life Chefs

Quick Mixed Bean Salad

Serves: 8 | Prep time: 10 min. | Total time: 15 min.

Salad Ingredients: Dressing Ingredients:

1 can (15.5 oz.) GOYA® Black Beans, drained and rinsed 3 tbsp. GOYA® Red Wine Vinegar
1 can (15.5 oz.) GOYA® Chick Peas, drained and rinsed 2 packets GOYA® Salad and
1 can (15.5 oz.) GOYA® Red Kidney Beans, Vegetable Seasoning
drained and rinsed 1 tbsp. GOYA® Lemon Juice
1 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded and chopped ½ cup GOYA® Extra Virgin Olive Oil
©2018 Goya Foods, Inc.

1 red bell pepper, seeded and finely chopped

2 tbsp. finely chopped fresh cilantro

For step-by-step instructions, visit goya.com/beansalad

*As defined by the USDA, when Mother Nature permits.

The ChefsBest® Excellence Award is awarded to brands that surpass quality standards established by independent professional chefs.
THE GOODS  COFFEE

Take There are some places I travel, like, say, the woods or my hometown, where stopping into a hip local
café isn’t really an option. Which brings me to the collapsible pour-over. A few years ago I bought one
Coffee to take on camping trips, and my coffee game has never been the same. Now this lightweight gadget is
an essential in my suitcase, whether I’m driving to upstate New York for the weekend or going on a
Gear on cruise with my family. For the same amount of space as a few extra pairs of socks, I can fit paper filters,
a small bag of coffee, and a pint-size grinder. I only need access to hot water to have a café-quality
the Go cup in my room. Another plus: Refills are basically free.  AS H L E Y M AS O N

COLLAPSIBLE
C O F F E E D R I P, $ 3 0
This lightweight
stainless-steel pour-over
packs completely flat.
snowpeak.com

6 0  M AY 2 018
 Ouita Michel — Holly Hill Inn

Every face in the restaurant — familiar. The satisfaction of

feeding my community, there’s nothing like it. Taking fresh,
simple ingredients and transforming them into something
extraordinary — pure smiles. This is what good food can do.
Visit BetterintheBluegrass.com for the full story.
THE GOODS  CONTAINERS
2

Stow Your Snacks

Don’t be that person who spills
granola all over the guy in 18B.
Pack your plane food (you
brought some, right?) in these
stylish leak-proof containers

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F O O D S T O R A G E , $ 18

1  2  3  4  5 
Show off your herby Twist-top jars mean Three tiers of airtight A sophisticated aluminum Silicone webbing protects
grain salad in this crystal- your applesauce or stainless steel for those alternative to your this glass vessel during
clear plastic container. chia pudding won’t spill. annoyingly long flights. childhood lunchbox. unexpected drops.
bedbathandbeyond.com lunchbots.com food52.com shopsiggnorthamerica.com bedbathandbeyond.com
 EAT LIKE
A LOCAL
EVEN IF YOU’RE NOT.

LIVE NOW! bonappetit.com/city-guides

THE GOODS  KNIFE ROLL

Use a Knife Photos of Airbnb listings never show me what I really need to see: what’s inside those kitchen
cabinets. And nothing sets me off like dull knives, scratched nonstick cookware, and a lack of basic
Roll for utensils. I don’t leave anything to chance when I plan to cook on vacation. My knife roll goes
where I do, although it rarely contains more than one knife. Instead, I pack it full of the cooking
More Than tools that make or break my stay, like small silicone spatulas for scrambled eggs, a Microplane,
wooden cooking spoons, and a fish spatula for everything else. Packed tightly in a knife roll,
Knives my tools take up as little room as possible. CHRIS MOROCCO

MISE KNIFE
BAG, $320
Sturdy nylon webbing
and an internal zip
pouch keep every
type of tool in place.
hedleyand
bennett.com

PROP STYLING BY EMILY EISEN. TOOLS SHOWN NOT INCLUDED.

GUTTER

6 4  M AY 2 018
 Average
Lasagna?
Not in this
house.
Add some awesome to your family’s lasagna with the
creamy melt of Kraft Mozzarella with a Touch of Philadelphia.

© 2018 Kraft Foods

 THE FEED

T R AV E L
SPECIAL

The Accidental Apprentice

I ran off to Italy on

a whim. Then I met the
girl with the figs
by JASON HAMMEL

6 6  M AY 2 018
© 2018 Tyson Foods, Inc.
THE FEED

ne summer in my 20s, the woman with the shears: her grand- Slow-Roasted Bell Peppers

o
I ran off to Italy with mother, Sophia. I set two figs inside a We streamlined this recipe to
4 S E RV I N G S
the grand idea of, like, paper bag and passed them back to her to get excellent results in an hour; serve
figuring it all out. I saved weigh. She pointed to some mint bunched alongside roast chicken or spooned over
a few hundred dollars upright in a cup of water. I pointed at pan-fried fish or toasted bread.
and rented an apart- sage. She shook her head no, gestured
ment sight unseen from a bulletin board toward the sun, then made a fan of her 5 yellow, orange, or red bell
in the train station. It was a single, drafty hand. She was saying, Figs and mint is for peppers, halved,
room, large enough for a twin-size bed, a summer day. From that moment we seeds and ribs removed
with a set of windows overlooking a became close. I’d visit every day, and she’d 6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil,
wide, bustling piazza. In the corners were make suggestions for what to eat, how divided, plus more for serving
two doors: one for a bathroom so small to eat it, why one ingredient needed Juice of 1 lemon
you had to use the sink as a shower, another. Figs and mint. Artichokes and 1 Tbsp. fig jam
another for the even smaller kitchen—a leeks. Rosemary for when it rained. 1 Tbsp. white balsamic vinegar
closet, really, with an old gas oven you lit One morning, in a newly confident or white wine vinegar
with a match. stream of inept Italian, I told her how Kosher salt
It was the address that changed my life: I was learning to cook in the kitchen in 2 Tbsp. oregano leaves
26 Piazza del Mercato Centrale. Those my apartment. How before that summer,
windows looked out at one of the great- I had never made food for myself. I can’t Heat broiler. Toss peppers with 2 Tbsp.
est food markets in the world. imagine how it sounded, this oil on a rimmed baking sheet to coat and
I found myself there every guy speaking eagerly in words arrange cut side down. Broil, rotating
morning, hunting through the only a toddler would use. I baking sheet halfway through, until skin
vegetable aisles. I stumbled described the tiny sink and is blackened, 12–14 minutes. Reduce
badly. Said asinine things like I the old gas oven. She sent me oven temperature to 200° and continue
wanted a “fish” when I wanted home with a package of sweet to roast peppers until very soft but
a “peach.” I soon learned that in peppers, a fistful of oregano, not mushy, about 1 hour. Let cool slightly,
the market, vendors expected and a jar of fig preserves she then scrape off and discard skins. Cut
you to know exactly what you had made. Then she pointed peppers lengthwise into ½"-wide strips.
wanted, and not just in kilo- at the chicken vendor and Whisk lemon juice, jam, vinegar,
grams but by its purpose, who said, Get the one on the right. and 4 Tbsp. oil in a medium bowl. If fig
was coming for dinner, what It was early afternoon jam is very coarse, use a fork to mash
the occasion was, and what recipe you’d when she called up to me from the piazza. into smaller pieces; season dressing with
use. The problem was, I didn’t know any I went to the windows like a character salt. Mix in peppers; taste and season
recipes. I didn’t even know the names from a play, and there she was, holding well with salt. Toss to coat.
of the vegetables. And no one was com- her loose apron in one hand and waving Just before serving, mix in oregano
ing to dinner. with the other. In my apartment, there and drizzle generously with more oil.
That is, until I met the girl with the figs. was hardly room for us to stand together D O A H E A D : Peppers (without oregano)
For several days I’d seen her tending by the oven. I watched her skillfully trim can be made 2 days ahead. Cover; chill.
her family stall. In a building full of pudgy the peppers in the air like a woodworker
old men, curmudgeons armed with par- with a carving knife. Following the
ing knives and day-old newspapers, she method of her grandmother, she charred

ILLUSTRATIONS BY GEORGE WYLESOL. FOR RESTAURANT DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

was a captivating enigma, despite having the peppers in the oven, then took them
a grandmotherly style herself. She wore out and covered them in streams of olive At the time I didn’t know this recipe
pale cardigans in the mornings, had her oil, so much that it pooled between the would be anything other than a glossy
apron loose around her hips, was thin, peppers, before adding sprigs of oregano detail from a summer storia. I didn’t
sharply boned, tough as them all, yet still and splashes of white vinegar. After know that the way she carved the pep-
young, spirited, beautiful. tasting the oil with her finger, she turned pers with that bone-handled knife in her
That summer she had a small crop of the oven to its lowest setting and put the hands would come to me every time I’ve
black Mission figs from a southern rela- pan of peppers back in. Her grandmother held a paring knife since. Or that I would
tive, which she sold by the piece. Since would leave them in for hours. remember this dish each time I tell a
then, in my 20 years of professional fig Let’s take a walk, she said. When we cook to take a confit, a poach, a braise,
buying, I’ve never seen any so beautiful— came back, the gentle heat of the oven low and slow.
purple-tinged dark skin with long, sharp had softened the peppers until they were We spilled wine on the grass in the
stems where some careful gardener had creamy yet still somehow intact—still waning summer night. Low and slow. An
clipped them with her shears. A select themselves. We roasted the chicken adagio. It was July, and tourists looked at
few had been cut open to reveal a red, simply and glazed the peppers in the fig us with envy. See, I could hear one man
swollen heart with caviar-like seeds, still preserves. Since there was no room at saying, look at how they live.
firm and unyielding to the touch. my place, we took the plates to a nearby
She talked to me about the fig trees. park, spread an old blanket on the warm J a so n Ha m m e l i s the c he f o f L u l a
About the hill where they grew. About grass, and ate with our fingers. C a f e a n d M a r i so l i n C h i c a g o .

6 8  M AY 2 018
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 THE FEED

Drinking in Dhaka

A story of a young romance,

a bowl of peanuts, and a
plastic water bottle of whiskey
by RUMAAN ALAM

M AY 2 018  71
THE FEED

arly in a relationship, adjacent village where the agricultural Peanut Drinking Snack

e
a weekend away can laborers lived, then retreated to the This spicy, sour, salty,
4 S E RV I N G S
be fatal. So it seems main house for a secret nip from the crunchy mix isn’t your typical roasted
like lunacy that a plastic bottle and a very late dinner. bar nuts. Fresh lime juice, red onion,
month after I met David’s a photographer; I’m a writer. chiles, and cilantro give it amazing
David, we planned a Thus, everywhere we went, he took flavor. It’s best served with spoons
trip together to Argentina. From there, pictures and I took notes, so it was a for scooping into your palm.
travel became a big part of our romance; pleasure trip that also involved some
there’s no better way to get to know work. We spent some time in the city of ½ small red onion, finely chopped
someone than to see them far from the Chittagong on the Bay of Bengal, where 2 serrano chiles, seeds
comforts of home. the local trade is shipbreaking instead removed, finely chopped
I got to know that David was curious, of sunbathing. We called in favors to be Zest and juice of ½ lime
as he pored over guidebooks to find some shown the corpses of decommissioned Kosher salt
alluring oddity to visit. (He dragged us to ocean vessels, a surreal blight on the 1¼ cups salted, dry-roasted skin-on
an out-of-the-way village in India known environment usually kept hidden from Spanish peanuts
for its exuberantly frescoed homes, one tourists like us, but a remarkable thing ½ cup finely chopped cilantro
of the most beautiful places I’ve ever we were very eager to see. That night ¼ tsp. chili powder
been.) I got to know that he was tireless, we went back to our grim business hotel
eager to walk all over Prague, rain be quite in need of a drink. Combine onion, chiles, lime zest and
damned. I got to know that he was out- We spent three nights on a little boat lime juice, and a large pinch of salt
going, interested in talking to anyone, and puttering through the Bay of Bengal’s in a medium bowl. Let sit a minute or
also that he speaks French better than he mangrove forest, a habitat for the so to allow flavors to come together
lets on (a cliché, but it planet’s few remain- and for onion to mellow.
just sounds romantic). ing wild tigers. It was Add peanuts, cilantro, and chili
And I got to know there that we rang in powder to onion mixture and give it all
that he is always, the New Year, stand- a good toss. Taste and season with
always prepared. ing in our little cabin more salt as needed.
For an overnight that was so tiny there Serve peanut mixture in a small bowl
f lig ht, David had was nowhere to sit with spoons.
sleeping pills. To beside the two narrow
counteract prolonged bunks. We drained the
exposure to unfamil- bottle that night.
iar cuisine, he had Therea f ter, ou r
peanut butter. For itinerary carried us juice, and cilantro. Like every great bar
destinations where back to the capital snack, it made us want to snack more,
the only coffee avail- city of Dhaka, where drink more, talk more, laugh more, all
able was instant, he we would see my of which we did.
had a plastic French favorite relatives, my David and I have been married for
press and a pound of aunt and uncle. They almost a decade now, and the way we
the good stuff. Who were a hilarious and travel these days is quite different. I’ve
wouldn’t fall in love? cosmopolitan couple, not left the country in eight years, which
Some years after that first vacation in easygoing people who were also superb is, not coincidentally, precisely how old
Argentina, we planned a trip to Bangla- hosts. When they understood that David our first son is. These days, when I get on
desh, the country of my parents’ birth and I were hoping to have a drink, they a plane, I rely on David, ever prepared, to
but a place about which I, assimilated decided to take us to their club. remember to pick up a Road & Track to
American kid that I was, knew almost That club is a colonial-era work- occupy the big kid and some bubble gum
nothing. David, ever prepared, stopped around to circumvent the society’s so the little one can pop his ears.
at the duty-free during our layover for a conservatism and is even now one of a Our family trips are wonderful. But
bottle of whiskey. The stuff is hard to handful of places in that huge city I don’t mind remembering when we
come by in that devoutly Muslim coun- where one can order alcohol. It looked a traveled a bit lighter. Though I’m not
try, and there’s something so right about bit like an unremarkable hotel or a nearly skilled enough a cook to re-
a drink after a long day in a new place. building at a small out-of-the-way col- create the delicious, complex food we
ILLUSTRATIONS BY GEORGE WYLESOL

Upon arriving, David decanted the lege, but it had an air of British-inflected ate on our trip to Bangladesh, I can
booze into an empty plastic water bottle, pomp to it. My uncle told me I had to manage that simple bar snack and find
and that vessel accompanied us every- tuck in my shirt before going in, and myself transported, both across the
where we went. the waitstaff spoke that hand-me-down world and back in time.
Outside Dhaka we visited a tea plan- formal English you hear in the former
tation, an astonishingly quiet place, colonies. Our drinks were served with a Rumaan Alam is the author of the
verdant even in the dry winter season. little silver bowl containing a mound of n ov e l s T h a t K i n d o f M o t h e r, o u t t h i s
We walked through the fields and the peanuts tossed with minced onion, lime m o n t h , a n d R i c h a n d P r e t t y.

7 2  M AY 2 018
 THE FEED

The Camel Trek

In search of an elusive
meat across three countries
and two decades
by ANISSA HELOU

74  M A Y 2 0 1 8
SEE THE LOCAL MARKET
WITH SOMEONE WHO KNOWS
HIS BAK KUT TEH FROM HIS
TOM YUM GOONG.
That someone being Andy Ricker, renowned founder of Pok Pok and one of
the extraordinary James Beard Foundation chefs you’ll find aboard our intimate,
elegant Windstar ships. We can take you places other ships can’t. Call your
travel professional or Windstar Cruises at 866-710-1469.
Star Legend, Hoi An Village, Vietnam.
THE FEED

n all the years that I first taste of what many Arabs regard as Not-Camel Meatballs
lived in Beirut, I never a delicacy. Even if this was not a gastro- with Tahini Sauce

i saw anyone sell or eat

camel meat, nor did I
ever see any camels:
Lebanon has no des-
nomic revelation, I became curious about
camel meat, wanting to taste it wher-
ever I could find it.
More than a decade later I was in a
Be sure to roll the meatballs
4 S E RV I N G S
firmly into the millet so that the
tiny grains don’t fall off during frying.

ert. Then, one day in the late ’90s, I was catering kitchen owned and run by Umm M E AT B A L LS
walking through the Midan quarter in Said, a formidable female cook in Al Ain, ½ cup millet
Damascus, Syria, researching a book on a tiny hilly Emirate in the United Arab 1 lb. ground beef chuck (20% fat)
street food, and I came nose to nose, as it Emirates, where I was shooting a TV 5 garlic cloves, finely grated
were, with a furry camel’s head hanging series on Emirati cuisine. That day Umm 1 tsp. ground coriander
outside a butcher shop. Said’s chefs were preparing a whole baby 1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
The store was a hole-in-the-wall kind camel for a family reunion party. They 1½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more
of place, with a charcoal grill at the back had separated the beast into joints,
and a rickety table and chairs in front, a which were marinating in a wonderfully S A U C E A N D ASS E M B LY
typical setup in Syria, so that the owner fragrant combination of spices that Vegetable oil (for frying;
can grill meat to order for customers included saffron, cardamom, garlic, rose about 9 cups)
who want to have a quick bite. The water, and b’zar, an Arabian blend of ½ cup tahini
burly mustachioed butcher had his more than half a dozen spices. They then 1 garlic clove, finely grated
bloody apron tied tightly over his arranged the joints in a huge pot, posi- 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
paunch and was standing in the door- tioning the camel hump in the center, put
way, inadvertently blocking my way in. the pot over a large gas fire, and piled S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A deep-fry
I asked him why he had such a grisly glowing embers on the lid to heat the pot thermometer
camel’s head, with its long neck still from above and below.
dripping blood, hanging outside. He The hump was the prize of the feast, M E AT B A L LS Cook millet in a dry medium
explained that it was to show that he not so much for the fat but for the two skillet over medium heat, stirring
specialized in camel meat and to demon- fillets nestled underneath it. The chefs occasionally, until fragrant and lightly
strate the meat’s freshness; the camel let me sneak a taste before the hump and toasted, about 3 minutes. Transfer to
was clearly slaughtered that day. the rest of the camel meat were assem- a small bowl and let cool.
I had to try some; it was too much of a bled over a huge platter of steaming rice. Meanwhile, mix beef, garlic, coriander,
novelty to pass up. I asked the butcher to That morsel tasted way better than the pepper, and 1½ tsp. salt in a medium
grill me his tenderest cut, but camel kabab I had in Syria: bowl with your hands just to combine;
he suggested I have kabab, tender, with the subtle taste be careful not to overwork.
otherwise the meat would be of the amazing marinade. Working one at a time, roll meat

ILLUSTRATIONS BY GEORGE WYLESOL. SAUDI CAMEL MEATBALL RECIPE FROM FEAST: FOOD OF THE ISLAMIC WORLD
too tough. I was puzzled: In But it wasn’t until a few mixture loosely between your palms into
Lebanon, kabab means pieces years later, on a research trip 1¾" balls (you should have about 18)
of meat threaded onto skew- to Saudi Arabia, that I had and place on a rimmed baking sheet.
ers, which was what I thought my favorite taste of camel, in Roll each ball in toasted millet, pressing
I was asking for. But in Syria, the opulent dining room of and packing firmly into meat with your
kabab means meatballs or the family hosting me. As in palms. Repeat process as needed until
minced meat, also wrapped Syria, the medium was kabab, completely coated. Chill meatballs at
around skewers. I nodded in but here the ground meat was least 20 minutes and up to 2 hours (this
agreement, and he sliced a few pieces from mixed with millet, then fried. The millet will help the millet adhere during frying).
the shoulder of the hanging carcass to grains puffed up and became crunchy in
put through his grimy meat grinder. Since the hot oil, providing a crisp contrast to S A U C E A N D A S S E M B LY Pour oil into
the meat would be cooked, I didn’t let the soft meat; tahini and tamarind dip- a large heavy pot fitted with a deep-fry
this lack of hygiene worry me too much. ping sauces added a juicy touch. thermometer to come 1½" up sides; heat
BY ANISSA HELOU (HARPERCOLLINS). COPYRIGHT © 2018.

The butcher then seasoned the meat I often re-create that recipe at home over medium until thermometer hits 350°.
with salt and the typical Syrian seven- but with beef given how elusive camel Meanwhile, combine tahini and
spice mixture (cinnamon, allspice, cumin, meat is in the West. Every so often I add garlic in a medium bowl. Gradually add
and so on) and dexterously wrapped it fresh herbs to the tahini sauce to freshen 6 Tbsp. water, then lemon juice, whisking
around a couple of skewers. He placed it and turn it a brilliant green or Kash- constantly until sauce is smooth and
these on his grill, and once the kabab had miri pepper to give it a gentle kick and pourable. Season with salt.
charred, he slipped them off the skewers turn it a vivid red. Having started with a Using a slotted spoon, gently lower
and onto pita bread, serving them along- rather mediocre taste of Syrian camel meatballs into oil and fry undisturbed
side a platter of raw onion, tomato slices, kabab, I’ve come a long way. 2½ minutes (millet will be light golden).
and a few sprigs of fresh mint. Transfer to a baking sheet lined with
The grilled meat was not unlike beef. Anissa Helou is the author of nine paper towels; season lightly with salt.
It was a touch drier and possibly gamier b o o ks , i n c l u d i n g Fe a s t : Fo o d o f t he Serve meatballs with tahini sauce.
but exciting all the same since it was my I s la m i c Wo r l d , o u t th i s m o n th .

76  M AY 2 018
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 How to
Eat, Drink,
Swim, Snack,
Spritz, Nap,
Party, and
Summer Like
an Italian
O ur 4 2 - page guide to liv ing la dolce vita, whe rever yo u are
80
Just another
lunch in
paradise, a.k .a.
L ake C o m o

T E X T BY A M I E L STA N E K — R E C I P E S BY I G N AC I O M AT TO S
P H OTO G R A P H S BY M I C H A E L G R AY D O N + N I KO L E H E R R I OT T
Vacation essentials: still- life- wo rthy fruit ( see p. 9 0 ) and aperitifs ( see p. 1 0 0 )
THE FUNNY THING ABOUT
W O R K I N G AT A FA N C Y
FOOD MAGAZINE IS THAT
no matter how often you insist that your day to day Mattos uttered that question—casually, with the
involves a whole lot of sitting in meetings and staring barest hint of a smile—it meant he had something truly,
at screens, your friends and family nevertheless believe madly, eyes-rolling-back-into-your-head delicious
that you spend all of your time jet-setting to exotic he wanted me to try. A slice of melon that sent juices
locales, schmoozing with chefs, and eating the most coursing down my chin. The buttery jus at the bottom
fabulous things from sunup to sundown. Another funny of the pasta pan. A chunk of fresh mozzarella di bufala;
thing about working at a fancy food magazine is that a spoonful of delicate shellfish broth. Despite the fact
sometimes, well, all of that is true. that the rotating cast of a dozen or so guests had a
The idea was simple, if a little nutty: Rent a gigantic majestic lakeside palace and large swaths of northern
villa on the banks of Lake Como, invite one of the most Italy to explore, this is what kept us all in a tight orbit
talented chefs in the world to host his friends there around the kitchen most of the week: the intimacy
for a week, and meticulously document the good times of being in the company of someone doing what they
and deliciousness that ensued. Ignacio Mattos, the love, masterfully, and eager to share it.
Uruguay-born chef behind NYC’s Estela, Café Altro Everywhere you turned there was food. Fresh
Paradiso, and Flora Bar, agreed to our harebrained idea Romano beans cooling in their cooking liquid under
(can you blame him?) and rounded up a crew of food- a gazebo. A giant wheel of Parm on the windowsill.
world luminaries to come hang out: chef Gabriela Crates of produce peeking out from under tables and
Cámara of Mexico City’s Contramar and San Francisco’s inside fireplaces. Mattos’ eager-to-help friends
Cala, Chad Robertson of Tartine fame, former Chez moved in and out of the kitchen, teaching, learning,
Panisse chef and cookbook author David Tanis, and and swapping tasks in a weeklong game of culinary
more. The plan was not to make our readers jealous or telephone. Time became elastic. “Quick” market runs
to declare Lake Como to be the Ultimate Vacation were inevitably punctuated by snacks and a leisurely
Destination (not bad, though, if I do say so). It was to bottle of 11:30 a.m. Lambrusco at a nearby café.
demonstrate how for people who truly love food, there Alfresco lunches of simple summer salads and fig
is no greater thrill than spending a week just cooking. leaf–wrapped grilled turbot stretched well past sunset.
Really cooking, the way you do when you have time There’s an idea that a once-in-a-lifetime trip like
and space, and meals aren’t problems to be solved but this one ruins a person for all the inevitably less-
ends in and of themselves: the nodes around which a extravagant journeys that follow. But on that final
perfect day is organized. And while Lake Como offered night, grinning goofily at each other across a massive
the consummate backdrop for the crazy cook-in of table strewn with platters of porterhouse and
our wildest fantasies, this isn’t exactly a story about bottles of Barbera and flickering candelabras, a quiet
spending your summer vacation in Italy; it’s about understanding settled over the group. We would miss
how to live la dolce vita wherever you happen to find it all, sure, but there would be no #takemeback. We
yourself, be it Milan or Michigan, Maine or Maui. were taking it all—the recipes, the rhythm of the days,
And cook we did. “You want something?” became the the unflinching belief that it’s never too early for an
three words I wanted to hear the most, a phrase that Aperol spritz—with us. And every trip from now on,
I developed a near-Pavlovian response to. Because when near or far, would be more delicious for it.

83
 CHAPTER I

Make Breakfast
an Occasion

A proper breakfast is the foundation upon which a great day is built.

The kind where ripe summer peaches get dressed up, strong coffee
flows, and a greens-and-cheese-stuffed tart disappears sliver by sliver.
You’re on vacation, remember? You’ve got nothing but time
84
 MENU
Peaches and
Shaved
Fennel Salad

Breakfast
Calzone

Marinated
Beans
with Ricotta
Salata

Tor ta
Pasqualina
PEACHES AND
S H AV E D F E N N E L
SALAD WITH
RED PEPPER
P . 11 6
B R E A K FA S T

B R E A K FA S T
CALZONE
P . 11 6

Ignacio Mattos,
t h e we e k ’s h o s t ,
preps the next
meal alongside
food writer Gabe
U lla ( left) .

BY T H E T I M E I A R R I V E D AT
the house—maybe three hours after
Mattos and co.—the kitchen
had been fully rearranged, and prep
for the next day’s breakfast was
underway. Anticipation hung
in the air, the first-day jitters of a
group not yet jelled. (To meet all
the guests, turn to page 121.) But as
cooking smells drew new arrivals
into the kitchen and they were
put to work, an easy camaraderie
emerged. Bottles of juicy local
rosato were opened; the sun set
over the lake; a big pan of casual
cacio e pepe appeared and disappeared.
And by the time jet lag eventually
beckoned everyone to bed, we fell
asleep knowing that the next
morning’s meal would mark the start
of something really, really special.

86
MARINATED BEANS WITH CELERY AND RICOT TA SAL ATA P . 11 6
 B R E A K FA S T P R O J E C T

TO R TA PAS Q U A L I N A
This double-crusted stunner of a savory tart is a
traditional Italian Easter dish, but it makes for an impressive
vegetarian main no matter what you’re celebrating
( R E C I P E P . 11 6 )

The amount
of Swiss chard
you need
might surprise
you, but it will
cook down to a
concentrated,
well-seasoned
filling.

Crimping the
top and bottom
crusts together
with a casual
twist-and-
fold makes for
a rustico
presentation.

Making little
divots in the
chard mixture
ensures the
eggs stay put.

Egg wash
and a sprinkle
of sugar get
that surface
extra golden.

88
If you’re going
thro ugh all that
trouble, you m ay
as well m ake two
tarts. ( T hey’re
even better cold.)
L e t ’s G o
Shopping
I T W A S A LW AY S F O R “J U S T
one thing,” one forgotten ingredient
that we seemed to urgently need.
But as soon as someone said the
word market, the heads of anyone
within earshot whipped around
like a dog who’d overheard someone
say “walk.” Because a trip to the
Mercato Coperto in Como was
where the magic really happened.
Trailing Mattos as he went from
stall to stall, you got to hear the
plan for the next meal evolve.
By week ’s end
A chicory salad becomes a Romano our crew was,
bean salad; room on the table must shall we say, well-
be made for a newly sampled cheese. liked am ong the
It was that in-the-moment fast- m arket’s vendors.
and-looseness that we came for.

Produce was
bought fo r the day;
staples like olive
o il were procured
for the week;
and specialty items—
an enticing tin of
fish, an unfamiliar
sauce—were picked
up on a whim .
 T hat m an who
look s like a waiter?
Actually just a
( very) friendly,
er, m orning drinker
offering to sell
one of his poem s.

W ho needs pants
to go g rocery
shopping when yo u
have funny hats
and Birkenstock s?
 CHAPTER II

Long. Lazy.
Lunch.

If there’s one thing the Italians have right, it’s this: the longer the lunch,
the better the day. A midday meal isn’t a punctuation mark
between activities—it is the activity. So throw a few bottles of rosato
on ice and don’t think beyond the long nap that’ll cap it all off
92
SEA BREAM
MENU
CRUDO WITH
LEMON Sea Bream
AND OLIVES Crudo
P . 117
Tomatoes
and Haricots
Verts

Handmade
Malfatti

Grilled
Turbot

Tiramisù
with Cookies
LUNCH

THE VILLA CAME WITH A

standard grill, of course. But to
Argentine chef-cum-ceramist
Fernando Aciar, the idea of grilling
over anything but wood was
heresy. And so the grates of the
gas grill were appropriated, loose
paving stones unearthed, and our
DIY grill setup for the week—
felicitously situated as close as
possible to the banks of the lake—
was born. A rhythm emerged.
Prep in the kitchen. Take prepped
ingredients down to the grill
station. Immediately take a dunk
in that sweet, cool water. Dry
off. Return to kitchen. Repeat.
Then suddenly, several cycles
and spritzes later: lunch!

A B O V E : Susannah
Liguori arranging
bloom s from around
the property.

B E L O W: Mattos and
pals take part in
a little post-swim
shrimp g rilling.

TOMATOES
AND HARICOTS
VERTS WITH
ANCHOVIES
P . 117
 LUNCH

Chad Robertson
selfishly enjoying
the afternoon
when he could
have been baking
us loaves of his
ethereal sourdough
( we k id , we k id ) .

GRILLED
TURBOT WITH
CELERY LEAF
SALSA VERDE
P . 11 8

TIRAMISÙ
WITH
AMARETTI
COOKIES
P . 11 8

97
 LUNCH PROJECT

H A N D M A D E M A L FAT T I
A lot of fresh pastas are fussy and delicate, but this
sturdy gnocchi-esque dumpling dough is a breeze to work
with—low-pressure, high participation, big payoff
( R E C I P E P . 117 )

Yo u d o n ’ t
need any fancy
equipment to
make these
malfatti, just
plenty of
workspace to
spread out on.

Cutting the
dumplings into
equally sized
pieces ensures
even cooking.

Finished malfatti
should be stored
in a single
layer on a tray
or baking sheet
until ready to
cook. Even
though they’re
fairly hardy,
piling them up
will cause them
to lose some
of their shape.
Make sure to
keep the table,
your hands,
and the dough
well-floured to
prevent sticking.

98
 Lov ingly
handm ade pasta
wants to be
finished with
the sim plest
sauce possible.

99
1 2 3 4
 Spritz
STOCK O ’C l o c k
YOUR CART
C O C K TA I L S O N VAC AT I O N
present a conundrum. Everybody
1 wants them; nobody feels like
Whether you’re mixing them. That’s the genius
spritzing,
behind the spritz bar: Set out plenty
highballing, or
of ice, sparkling wine, and a few
hydrating, an
ample supply of aperitifs, and let people go to town.
fizzy water is key. It’s the ideal DIY cocktail because
Buy by the case. there’s no right way to make one.
(Go ahead: Google it.) It’s a formula.
2 Fill a glass with ice, add a slug of
A n aromatic strip your spirit of choice, fill it most of
of citrus peel the way with bubbly, and top with
(or whole wedge club soda. Slip in a strip of citrus
if you’re into peel and take a sip. Too boozy?
that) makes the
More soda. Too sweet? More
simplest drink
feel deluxe.
Prosecco. Sip, adjust. Sip, adjust.
Spritz the afternoon away.

3
Crisp, affordable
sparkling wine
(think Prosecco)
is the vacation
pour of choice —
keep the bottles
p o p p i n ’.

4
B i t t erswee t
a per i t i f s l i k e
Campari and
Aperol a re
the backbone
of the spritz—
and useful
for stronger
drinks too.
 CHAPTER III

You Don’t Have

to Eat at the Table

A round of smoky poolside burgers. A picnic lunch

of handmade shrimp empanadas. An ambling sunset walk
with a cold bottle of sparkling and a bag of chips.
Sometimes food just tastes better when you’re outside
10 2
 BEEF
SLIDERS WITH
PROVOLONE
AND BALSAMIC
ONIONS
P . 11 9

MENU
Beef Sliders

Grain Salad
with
Tomatoes

Shrimp
Empanadas

Italian
Sundaes with
Nutella
POOLSIDE

I’M SURE THIS INFORMATION

will elicit about as little sympathy
from you as it did from my
coworkers, but still: It rained most
days that we were in Lake Como.
Which meant that when the sun
was out, so were we, and the food
and drinks were most certainly
coming too. Why is it that a juicy,
sauce-oozing burger just tastes
different when you’re wearing a
bathing suit? Or that a pitcher of
Negronis disappears so much
quicker when the afternoon light
shines through it? Questions to
ponder next time you’re at the pool
surrounded by crumbs, empty
tumblers, and melting ice cream.

GRAIN SALAD
WITH TOMATOES
AND CUCUMBERS
P . 11 8

Whether you
bring one or buy
one, a beer cooler
is nonnegotiable
vacation- ware.
 BE HERE

NOW

Yo u ’ l l f i n d a l l t h e
recipes you need
to re -create this
trip beginning on
p . 116 , b u t i f y o u
really want the full
experience, this
incredible propert y
is available for
rent through the
fine folks at
luxur yretreats.com.
The t wo adjoining
residences—Villa
Front Lake and
ITALIAN
Villa Batell—share
SUNDAES two pools and a
WITH complimentary
NUTELLA speedboat(!) and
can sleep up to 26
P . 11 9
guests total. Not.
Bad. At. All.
 POOLSIDE PROJECT

S H R I M P E M PA N A DAS
For a Uruguayan like Mattos, these snacks
are a labor of love. Gather a crew to help stuff and
pinch them, then fry up enough for a crowd
( R E C I P E P . 11 9 )

Rolling out the

dough to this
thinness takes
patience.

An assembly
line of eager
helpers turns
filling and
folding into a
group activit y.

Careful crimping
ensures a seal
that won’t burst
in the hot oil.

Dusting
the parcels
with flour
keeps them
from sticking
t o g e t he r.

10 6
Sun on your
face, crispy,
still-warm
empanada in
your hand
 Snack dip—and set it out in a way that
facilitates maximum deliciousness.
Gently warming the olives. Draping
Time spears of dripping-ripe melon with
gossamer slivers of ham. Arranging
a few morsels of provolone with
THE ITALIANS UNDERSTAND pearl onions on toothpicks to
snacking. No drinks without ensure that everyone gets a perfect
snacks, and no snacks without bite. See, snacks make it all possible.
drinks. But a spread of beautiful They’re what afford you the
things to nibble on isn’t about flexibility to roll with this whole
cooking; it’s about curating. You lunch-at-three, dinner-at-nine,
pick up the best product you can no-schedule-but-your-schedule thing.
find—be it prosciutto di Parma, They’re the key to making sure that
pimiento cheese, or smoked trout the second Negroni of the afternoon
doesn’t put anyone under the
(still-to-be-set) table. And if you
serve enough of them, nobody’s
going to complain when the dinner
hour comes and goes.

2
PERFECT 1 2 3 4 5
A sweet little Cheese, please! Tiny jarred Fe w t h i n g s t a s t e Think of this
BITES pickled pepper Nuggets of cocktail onions as unmistakably as an Italianate
wrapped milky m oz z a r e l l a are good for of summer queso dip:
around a n di bufala more than just as sun-warmed soft, spicy
anchovy paired with Gibsons. Add cantaloupe Gorgonzola
wrapped a r o u n d bits of a cube of tingly coupled with dolce mashed
an olive? mostarda— provolone the salty funk with a little
Briny and chunks of fruit piccante, of dry-cured heavy cream
beautiful, preserved a bit of parsley, ham. Just until it
i t ’s t h e i d e a l with a touch and a few drizzle with reaches the
foil to a tall, of fier y mustard grinds of black grassy olive ideal dippable
bittersweet oil—make pepper, and oil and eat. consistency.
Campari for a study in i t ’s p r a c t i c a l l y I t ’s a c l a s s i c E v e r y t h i n g ’s
and soda. contrasts. a salad! for a reason. easier in Italy.

5
 CHAPTER IV

Go Big Before
You Go Home

The best way to keep the end-of-trip scaries at bay? Focus your
energy on one final feast. Pull out all the stops. Spring for the good steaks.
Uncork all the bottles. When “tomorrow” means leaving the fantasy
behind, what else can you do but party like there’s no tomorrow?
11 0
GRILLED RED
MULLET WITH
CHARRED
MENU
ONIONS AND
PINE NUTS Romano
P . 12 0 Beans with
Mustard
Vinaigret te

Arugula with
Italian Plums

Paccheri with
Shellfish

Grilled
Red Mullet

Grilled
Bistecca

Brioche
au Rhum

Matt o s,
Gabriela Cám ara,
Fernando Aciar,
and m any,
m any bottles
of Nebbiolo
DINNER

ARUGULA WITH
ITALIAN PLUMS
A N D PA R M E S A N
P . 12 0

A B OV E:
Longtim e friends
and collaborators
Jason Gregory and
Eunice Lee—the
designers behind
Mak r and U nis,
respectively—
take a breath
after an epic m eal.

L EF T: BA’s
Andy Baraghani
WE HAD TO USE THAT DINING
room for something. From the moment
we arrived, we marveled at it—replete
with towering oil portraits,
psychedelic Murano-glass chandeliers,
and a fleet of candelabras—wondering
how it would figure into the narrative
of the week. Then all of a sudden,
there we were: the final meal, the last
act. Flintstones-esque steaks, platters
of paccheri tangled up with all manner
of seafood, salads and salads and salads
spread along a table so big you couldn’t
help but yell across. Candles burned
down; music turned up; grappa came
out. And we all danced, beyond full, as
the curtain came down on our absurd,
wonderful adventure.

112
G R I L L E D B I S T E C C A W I T H H E R B Y F I S H S A U C E P . 121
R O M A N O B E A N S W I T H M U S T A R D V I N A I G R E T T E A N D W A L N U T S P . 12 0
 DINNER

T hat guy on the

right? Interpol
guitarist Daniel
Kessler, a.k .a. my
teenage post-punk
style icon. I tried
extrem ely hard to
play it cool.

B R I O C H E A U R H U M P . 121

PAC C H E R I
WITH
SHELLFISH,
SQUID, AND
TOMATOES
P . 12 0

115
 Marinated Beans with dough over filling and press together
Celery and Ricotta Salata edges to seal. Brush with oil; sprinkle
8 S E RV I N G S This simple marinade will with salt. Repeat with remaining
fancy up any type of canned beans. ingredients to make 7 more calzones.
Place calzones, oiled side down, on
4 15-oz. cans cannellini (white griddle and cook until deeply browned,
kidney) beans, navy beans, pressing gently with a spatula to create
Make and/or black-eyed peas, rinsed
4 celery stalks, thinly sliced
contact with griddle, about 5 minutes.
Brush oil on the other sides and sprinkle
Breakfast ⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil
6 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
with salt; turn calzones over. Cook until
other sides are deeply browned, about
an 1 Tbsp. coarsely chopped thyme,
plus more for serving
5 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board
and let sit 1 minute before cutting in half.
Occasion Kosher salt
4 oz. ricotta salata (salted dry
ricotta), crumbled Torta Pasqualina
Freshly ground black pepper 8 S E RV I N G S Don’t expect your first
pasqualina to look perfect. But it will taste
Toss beans, celery, oil, vinegar, and absolutely amazing if you remember
1 Tbsp. thyme in a large bowl to three key steps, detailed in Prep School
combine; season generously with salt. (p. 125): Don’t sweat the crust, squeeze
Just before serving, transfer beans every drop of liquid out of the greens,
to a shallow bowl and top with ricotta and save your chard stems!
Peaches and Shaved Fennel salata, pepper, and more thyme.
Salad with Red Pepper D O A H E A D : Bean salad (without DOUGH
There’s no reason
8 S E RV I N G S celery and ricotta salata) can be 3½ cups all-purpose flour
to make this savory fruit salad unless made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill. 2 Tbsp. sugar
the peaches you have are worth 1½ tsp. kosher salt
celebrating or you can get your 1½ cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter,
hands on some superb nectarines. Breakfast Calzone cut into pieces, chilled in freezer
8 S E RV I N G S If you can’t find nduja,
5 large peaches a funky and spicy spreadable Italian F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY
(about 2 lb. total), salami, substitute torn or chopped hot 3½ lb. Swiss chard (about 5 bunches),
cut into ½"-thick wedges soppressata or a salami with some kick. ribs and stems removed
3 Tbsp. Chardonnay vinegar 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
or white wine vinegar, 2 1-lb. 6-oz. balls of pizza dough, 2 medium onions, finely chopped
divided room temperature 10 large eggs
Kosher salt All-purpose flour (for surface) 1½ cups whole-milk fresh ricotta,
1 small fennel bulb, 6 oz. Fontina cheese, grated preferably box-drained,
halved, very thinly sliced (about 2 cups) patted dry
on a mandoline, 1 cup whole-milk fresh ricotta 4 oz. Parmesan, coarsely grated
plus coarsely chopped 4 oz. nduja 1 large garlic clove, finely grated
fennel fronds 8 large egg yolks 2 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 1 Tbsp. finely chopped rosemary ¼ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
Extra-virgin olive oil Extra-virgin olive oil 2 tsp. kosher salt, plus more
(for drizzling) Kosher salt 1½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper,
Aleppo-style or plus more
other mild red pepper flakes Prepare a grill for medium-low heat. Set All-purpose flour (for surface)
(for serving) cast-iron griddle on grill. (Alternatively, 2 tsp. sugar
heat on stovetop over medium-low.
Toss peaches in a large bowl with And if you don’t have a cast-iron griddle, S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A 10"-diameter tart
2 Tbsp. vinegar and pinch of salt use a cast-iron skillet instead and cook pan with a removable bottom
to coat. Arrange peaches on a in batches.) Cut each piece of dough
platter and spoon any juices left in into quarters for 8 pieces total. Roll out D O U G H Pulse flour, sugar, and salt in
bowl over top. 1 piece of dough to an 8x6" oval. a food processor to combine. Add butter
Toss fennel in the same bowl Spoon a heaping ¼ cup Fontina over and process until largest pieces of
with lemon juice and remaining half of dough and form a well in the butter are pea-size. Drizzle in ½ cup ice
1 Tbsp. vinegar to coat; season center. Dab 2 Tbsp. ricotta and 1 Tbsp. water and pulse until a few shaggy
with salt. nduja over Fontina, leaving well empty; pieces of dough form.
Scatter dressed fennel and fennel slip a yolk into the well. Sprinkle with Transfer dough (get all the dry bits) to
fronds over peaches on platter a bit of rosemary and drizzle with oil; a work surface. Drizzle 1 Tbsp. ice water
and drizzle with oil. Sprinkle with season with salt. Moisten edges of over; knead to just barely bring dough
some red pepper flakes. dough with water, fold empty side of together. Divide in half. Place a half on a
piece of plastic wrap. Using plastic and Tomatoes and Haricots Verts
your hands, form dough into a ¾"-thick with Anchovies
disk and tightly wrap. Repeat with 8 S E RV I N G S This time anchovies are not
remaining dough. Chill at least 2 hours. optional. They’re an integral ingredient
D O A H E A D : Dough can be made here, and it’s worth seeking out quality
5 days ahead. Keep chilled, or freeze brands. We love the oil-packed ones
up to 1 month. from Ortiz, Agostino Recca, and Merro.

F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY Working in
batches, cook Swiss chard in a large pot
Long. 4 oz. haricots verts or green beans,
trimmed
of boiling water until bright green and
slightly softened, about 2 minutes. Using
L a z y. Kosher salt
2 lb. medium tomatoes, some sliced,
tongs, transfer to an ice bath to stop the
cooking. Swish to cool, then remove
Lunch. some cut into wedges
1 pint Sun Gold and/or cherry
greens and squeeze out as much excess tomatoes, halved crosswise
liquid as possible. Transfer greens 16 oil-packed anchovy fillets
to a cutting board and finely chop ¼ cup celery leaves or parsley
(you should have about 4 cups). leaves
Heat oil in a large saucepan over 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
medium. Cook onions, stirring 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
occasionally, until very soft and golden Smoked or regular flaky sea salt
but not browned, 8–10 minutes. Remove Freshly ground black pepper
from heat and mix in greens. Let cool.
Using a fork, whisk 4 eggs in a large Sea Bream Crudo Cook haricots verts in a large pot of
bowl to blend. Add ricotta, Parmesan, with Lemon and Olives boiling salted water until bright green
and Swiss chard mixture and mix 8 S E RV I N G S Sea bream, common in the and tender, about 5 minutes. Using
to combine. Add garlic, lemon zest, Mediterranean, has lean flesh with a a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl of
nutmeg, 2 tsp. salt, and 1½ tsp. pepper. light, delicate flavor. If you can’t find it, ice water; let cool. Drain and pat dry.
Taste and adjust seasoning, if needed. porgy or snapper are suitable subs. Toss haricots verts, both kinds of
Let dough sit at room temperature tomatoes, anchovies, celery leaves, and
5 minutes to soften. Roll out 1 disk of 2 plum tomatoes, halved crosswise vinegar in a large bowl; season lightly
dough on a lightly floured surface to a Kosher salt with kosher salt.
12" round about ⅛" thick. Transfer to a ½ lemon Transfer salad to a platter, drizzle with
parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet. 1½ lb. highest-quality sea bream, oil, and season with sea salt and pepper.
Roll out remaining disk of dough and skin, bones, and blood
carefully transfer to tart pan. Lift up edges lines removed
and allow dough to slump down into 1½ cups arugula Malfatti with Pancetta
pan. Press dough firmly into sides and ⅓ cup Niçoise olives and Cherry Tomatoes
bottom of pan. Trim, leaving about a ½" ½ small red onion, very thinly sliced 8 S E RV I N G S Malfatti—literally “badly
overhang. Beat 1 egg in a small bowl ½ cup fresh lemon juice made”—are not as tricky to shape as you
to blend and brush edges of dough. Extra-virgin olive oil (for think. Because Mattos’ recipe has more
Scrape filling into pan, creating drizzling) flour than others, the dough is forgiving.
a mound in the center. Using an offset Flaky sea salt
spatula, evenly spread filling over 1 cup all-purpose flour, plus more
bottom, smoothing surface. Use a spoon Grate tomatoes on a box grater until 2 cups whole-milk fresh ricotta,
to create 5 divots in filling and crack an all the flesh is grated and there is preferably box-drained
egg into each. Season eggs with a bit of just skin left; discard skin. Transfer tomato 1 large egg, room temperature
salt. Arrange remaining round of dough pulp to a small bowl and season lightly 6 oz. Parmesan, finely grated,
over filling. Trim edges of top round, with kosher salt. plus more for serving
leaving ½" overhang. Fold edge of Cut lemon half into quarters; remove 1½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more
bottom crust up and over top, then press seeds and white pith in the center. Thinly 4 oz. pancetta (Italian bacon),
edges together to seal. Crimp and brush slice quarters. thinly sliced
top of dough with remaining beaten Place fish on a cutting board. Hold 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus
egg; sprinkle with sugar. Transfer pie to a long knife at a 45° angle and cut fish more for drizzling
a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and with the grain into ¼"-thick slices (use a 2 cups Sun Gold and/or cherry
chill in freezer 10 minutes. sharp blade and aim for one long, clean tomatoes
Preheat oven to 375°. Bake pie until stroke). Cut each slice in half crosswise. 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter,
crust is deep golden brown, 65–75 Arrange sea bream on chilled plates. cut into pieces
minutes. Transfer pan to a wire rack and Spoon a bit of grated tomato around Freshly ground black pepper
let pie cool in pan at least 30 minutes and scatter lemon pieces over. Top with ½ lemon
before serving. arugula, olives, and onion. Pour lemon
D O A H E A D : Pie can be baked juice over, then sprinkle with sea salt and S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : A sheet of
1 day ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. drizzle with oil. cheesecloth
Dust a parchment-lined rimmed baking Prepare a grill for medium-low indirect
sheet generously with flour; set aside. heat (for a gas grill, leave one or two
Place ricotta in the center of cheesecloth. burners off; for a charcoal grill, bank
Gather up the sides in your hands and coals on one side of grill). Tear off
wring out excess liquid. Transfer ricotta 4 large sheets of foil. Rub fish with ½ cup
to a few sheets of paper towels and pat oil (2 Tbsp. per piece) and season
dry with more paper towels. with salt. Working one at a time, place a
Pulse ricotta, egg, 6 oz. Parmesan,
and 1½ tsp. salt in a food processor to
fillet in the center of a sheet of foil and
top with 2 rosemary sprigs. Fold in short
Yo u D o n’ t
combine. Transfer to a large bowl; sift
in 1 cup flour and mix until just barely
sides of foil over fish, then fold in long
sides and roll edges together to seal.
H ave t o
combined (try not to overmix). Scrape
ricotta mixture onto a floured surface
Place pouches on cool side of grill,
cover grill, and cook fish, turning once,
Eat at
and divide into 4 pieces. Roll each piece
into a 22x¾" rope. Cut into ¾" pieces
20–25 minutes. Open a pouch to check
fish. Flesh should be slightly opaque
t h e Tab l e
and place dumplings on prepared and the tip of a knife should slide through
baking sheet. easily. Grill a little longer if needed.
Combine pancetta and 3 Tbsp. oil in Meanwhile, combine parsley, celery
a cold large skillet and set over medium leaves, and garlic in a medium bowl.
heat. Cook, stirring often, until pancetta Finely zest lemon into bowl, then squeeze
is brown and crisp, 6–8 minutes. Using in juice. Add red pepper flakes and
a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl; mix in remaining ¾ cup oil; season with
reserve skillet. salt and black pepper. Let salsa verde
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of sit 10 minutes for flavors to come together. Grain Salad with
water to a simmer (do not let it boil). Transfer fish to a platter and serve Tomatoes and Cucumbers
Working in batches if needed, cook with salsa verde and aioli. 8 S E RV I N G S We call for semi-pearled
dumplings until they expand in size and grains because they cook more
float to the surface, about 3 minutes. quickly and have a roughened-up texture
Ladle about ¾ cup pasta cooking Tiramisù with that helps them soak up the dressing.
liquid into reserved skillet and add Amaretti Cookies Browning them first deepens their flavor.
dumplings, tomatoes, and butter. 8 S E RV I N G S The crunchy almond
Increase heat to medium-high and cook, cookies replace soft smushy ladyfingers 2 cups semi-pearled farro or spelt
stirring gently (don’t toss), until sauce for a welcome twist on the classic dessert. Kosher salt
thickens slightly and coats dumplings, ⅓ cup pine nuts
about 4 minutes. Remove from heat and 6 large egg yolks 3 medium Persian cucumbers, peeled,
season with salt and pepper. ½ cup sugar cut into ¾" pieces
Divide malfatti among bowls. Finely 3 cups mascarpone 3 medium tomatoes, thinly sliced
grate lemon zest over, drizzle with oil, 3 Tbsp. dark rum 1 pint Sun Gold and/or cherry
and top with pancetta and Parmesan. ¼ tsp. kosher salt tomatoes, halved crosswise
1 cup espresso or very strong coffee 1 small red onion, very thinly sliced
1 7-oz. bag amaretti cookies Juice of 1 lemon (or more)
Grilled Turbot with (Italian macaroons; about 4 cups) ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil
Celery Leaf Salsa Verde 2 Tbsp. unsweetened cocoa powder 2 Tbsp. red wine vinegar
8 S E RV I N G S Don’t fret if you can’t find Freshly ground black pepper
turbot. Look out for other flatfish such as S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : Eight 6-oz. glasses 2 cups torn basil leaves
Dover sole or flounder. or ramekins
Preheat oven to 350°. Cook farro in a
2 whole turbot (about 3 lb. each), Whisk egg yolks in a medium bowl large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over
heads and fins removed, split in to blend, then gradually add sugar, medium heat, stirring often, until golden
half along the backbone whisking constantly until mixture is thick, brown and toasted (it should start to smell
1¼ cups extra-virgin olive oil, smooth, and pale yellow. Using a like popcorn and some grains may pop),
divided rubber spatula, gently fold in about 4 minutes. Remove pot from heat
Kosher salt mascarpone, rum, and salt; set aside. and pour in cold water to cover grains
8 sprigs rosemary, divided Place espresso in a small bowl. by 1"; throw in a healthy handful of salt.
1½ cups finely chopped parsley Working in batches, gently mix and turn Set pot over medium-high heat and bring
½ cup finely chopped celery leaves cookies in espresso 20 seconds to water to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer,
1 garlic clove, finely grated soak. Divide cookies among glasses skimming foam occasionally from surface,
½ lemon and top each with ½ cup mascarpone until grains are tender but still have some
½ tsp. Aleppo-style or other mild mixture. Chill at least 1 hour. bite, 25–35 minutes. Drain and transfer
red pepper flakes Dust tiramisù with cocoa powder farro to a large bowl.
Freshly ground black pepper just before serving. Meanwhile, toast pine nuts on a
Aioli or store-bought mayonnaise D O A H E A D : Tiramisù can be made rimmed baking sheet, tossing once, until
(for serving) 1 day ahead. Cover and keep chilled. golden brown, about 5 minutes. Let cool.
 Add pine nuts, cucumbers, both kinds Heat 2 Tbsp. olive oil in a large 2 lb. ground beef (20% fat)
of tomatoes, red onion, lemon juice, oil, saucepan over medium-high. Add Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper
and vinegar to bowl with farro and toss reserved shrimp shells and heads 4 slices provolone piccante cheese,
everything together to combine. Taste (if using) and cook, smashing down on torn in half
and season with salt, pepper, and more shells and heads occasionally with a 8 potato slider buns
lemon juice, if desired. wooden spoon, until pink and bottom of 1 large red onion, very thinly sliced
Top salad with basil just before serving. pot begins to brown, about 5 minutes. into rounds
D O A H E A D : Farro can be cooked Add wine and cook until reduced by half, 3 Tbsp. balsamic vinegar
1 day ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. about 2 minutes. Add ⅔ cup water; bring 1 tsp. sugar
to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer Aioli or store-bought mayonnaise
until reduced by one-third, 6–8 minutes. (for serving)
Shrimp Empanadas Let cool. Strain stock through a fine-mesh
812 S E RV I N G S If you can find head-on sieve into a heatproof measuring glass, Divide meat into 8 portions (about
shrimp, please, please buy them and add pressing on solids; discard solids. 4 oz. each). Place 1 portion on a work
the heads to the stock. They’ll provide an Wipe out pan, add remaining 2 Tbsp. surface. Cup your hands around the
incomparable richness and depth. olive oil, and set over medium heat. meat and shape it into a rounded
Cook onion, stirring often, until softened mound. Gently flatten patty to about
DOUGH but without taking on any color, about ¾" thick. Season both sides with salt
4 oz. lard, melted, slightly cooled 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook, stirring, and pepper. Repeat with remaining
1 Tbsp. kosher salt until softened, about 3 minutes. Add portions of meat.
1 Tbsp. red wine vinegar shrimp stock and reserved shrimp and Prepare a grill for medium-high heat.
6 cups all-purpose flour, plus more cook, stirring occasionally, until most Grill patties until lightly charred on
for surface of the shrimp have turned pink, about bottom, about 3 minutes. Flip and top
2 minutes. Remove from heat. (Shrimp with a piece of cheese. Grill to desired
FILLING will continue cooking in the residual heat.) doneness (cheese should be melted),
1 lb. small shrimp, preferably Mix in butter, cilantro, lemon zest, and red about 3 minutes for medium-rare.
head-on, peeled, deveined, pepper flakes; season with salt. Let cool Transfer patties to a cutting board and
shells and heads reserved 20 minutes, then transfer to a medium let rest 5 minutes.
4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, bowl. Chill at least 1 hour before using. While patties are resting, grill the
divided Divide dough into 6 equal pieces. buns, cut side down, until lightly charred
⅓ cup dry white wine Cover all but 1 piece with plastic wrap around the edges, about 30 seconds.
1 medium onion, very finely and chill. Roll out remaining piece of Toss onion with vinegar, sugar,
chopped dough to a 14" round about " thick. and a pinch of salt in a medium bowl
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced Using cutter, punch out 6 rounds from and let sit, squeezing onions
6 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, dough. Place 1 Tbsp. filling in the center occasionally to soften slightly, 5 minutes.
cut into pieces of each and brush water halfway around Build sliders with patties, buns,
2 Tbsp. finely chopped cilantro edge of each round. Fold dry side of onions, and aioli.
1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest dough up and over filling to create D O A H E A D : Patties can be formed
½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes a semicircle. Pinch edges to seal; crimp. 6 hours ahead. Cover and chill.
Kosher salt Transfer to a parchment-lined rimmed
Vegetable oil (for frying; baking sheet. Repeat with remaining
about 8 cups) dough and filling. Chill 20 minutes. Italian Sundaes with Nutella
Meanwhile, pour vegetable oil into a 8 S E RV I N G S Fior di latte (“milk flower”)
A 4½"-diameter
S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : large heavy pot fitted with thermometer is a fresh cow’s-milk mozzarella. In its
cookie cutter; a deep-fry thermometer to come halfway up sides. Heat over frozen-dessert form, it’s made without egg
medium-high until thermometer registers yolks so that the pure flavor of the sweet
D O U G H Mix warm lard, salt, vinegar, 350°. Working in batches and adjusting cream can shine. If you have a gelateria
and 2 cups lukewarm water in a heat to maintain temperature, fry in your neighborhood, get a couple
large bowl to combine. Gradually add empanadas, turning often, until deep of pints to go. If not, use vanilla ice cream
6 cups flour, mixing with a sturdy golden brown, 5–7 minutes per batch. and your imagination.
wooden spoon or your hands until Transfer to a wire rack set over paper
a shaggy dough forms. towels; let cool 2 minutes before serving. 2 pints fior di latte gelato
Transfer dough to a lightly floured D O A H E A D : Filling can be made 1 cup Nutella
surface and knead until mostly smooth 1 day ahead. Keep chilled. Coarsely chopped toasted
and no dry spots remain, about blanched hazelnuts, crumbled
2 minutes. Wrap in plastic and chill amaretti cookies (Italian
at least 2 hours. Beef Sliders with Provolone macaroons) and/or wafer
D O A H E A D : Dough can be made and Balsamic Onions cookies (for serving)
2 days ahead. Keep chilled. 8 S E RV I N G S Ignacio Mattos changed
our feelings about balsamic vinegar Place a scoop of gelato into each chilled
Cut shrimp in half
F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY when he used it to macerate red onions bowl. Spoon a dollop of Nutella over
lengthwise, then finely chop (it’s okay for these Italian sliders. Read about our each and top with another scoop or two
if some pieces get pasty). Set aside. taste-test winner in Prep School, p. 125. of gelato. Top as desired.
 Arugula with Italian Plums Heat 3 Tbsp. oil in a large Dutch oven
and Parmesan or other heavy pot over medium-high.
8 S E RV I N G S For the best play between Add reserved shrimp shells and heads
sweet, hot, and salty ingredients, (if using). Cook, smashing down on shells
look for spiky arugula, labeled “rocket” and heads, until shells are beginning to
or “rucola,” at the farmers’ market. brown, 10–12 minutes. Add 1 cup wine
It’s much more peppery and sturdy than and cook until reduced by half and
Go Big what you’ll find at the supermarket. alcohol aroma is gone, about 5 minutes.
Add 2 cups water and bring to a boil.
Before 16 Italian plums, halved, or
8 small plums, quartered
Reduce heat to a bare simmer and cook
until reduced by one-third, 15–20
Yo u G o ⅓ cup cocktail onions, halved,
layers separated
minutes. Let stock cool 20 minutes, then
strain through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing
Home 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil,
on solids, into a heatproof measuring
glass (you should have about 1½ cups).
plus more for drizzling Set aside.
3 oz. arugula (about 5 cups) Wipe out pot. Pour in remaining
Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 3 Tbsp. oil and heat over medium. Add
3 oz. Parmesan, thinly sliced garlic and cook, stirring occasionally,
until just golden, about 5 minutes.
Toss plums, cocktail onions, lemon juice, Add grated tomatoes and cook, stirring
and 2 Tbsp. oil in a large bowl. Add occasionally, until tomatoes thicken
arugula, season with salt and pepper, slightly and begin to stick to bottom of
Romano Beans with Mustard and toss again. Transfer to a platter; top pot, 6–8 minutes. Add cockles, mussels,
Vinaigrette and Walnuts with Parmesan and drizzle with more oil. red pepper flakes, and remaining 1 cup
8 S E RV I N G S Romano beans, also wine. Cover pot and cook, shaking
known as Italian pole beans, are wide occasionally, until cockles and mussels
and flat and have a less delicate Paccheri with Shellfish, are open, about 5 minutes. Using
texture than green beans but share Squid, and Tomatoes a slotted spoon, transfer cockles and
their mild and sweet flavor. 8 S E RV I N G S Yes, seafood cooks quickly, mussels to a medium bowl, leaving
but sometimes it’s worth it to spend some behind any that have not opened. Cover
1 cup walnuts time building layers of flavor into a sauce pot again and cook unopened cockles
3 lb. Romano beans or as you would with a big pot of ragù. and mussels another minute or so,
green beans, trimmed then transfer to bowl with others. Discard
Kosher salt 3 medium tomatoes, halved, any that have not opened at this point.
3 Tbsp. red wine vinegar seeds and cores removed Keep shellfish sauce warm.
2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard 12 oz. cleaned squid, bodies and Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot
1 garlic clove, finely grated tentacles separated of boiling salted water, until just slightly
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, 6 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, under al dente, 6–8 minutes.
plus more for drizzling plus more for drizzling Using a heatproof measuring cup,
½ lemon 1½ lb. small shrimp, preferably head- scoop out about 1 cup pasta water.
¾ cup very coarsely chopped on, peeled, deveined, shells and Transfer pasta to pot with sauce with
parsley heads reserved a slotted spoon or mesh spider. Add
Freshly ground black pepper 2 cups dry white wine, divided reserved stock and bring to a boil.
6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced Reduce heat to a simmer and add shrimp
Preheat oven to 350°. Toast walnuts 1 lb. cockles or Manila clams, and squid to sauce. Cook, tossing
on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing scrubbed constantly and adding pasta water a
once, until golden brown, 8–10 minutes. 1 lb. mussels, scrubbed, debearded splash at a time as needed, until pasta
Let cool, then coarsely chop. ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes is al dente and sauce is glossy and
Cook Romano beans in a large pot 2 lb. paccheri or other large tube thick enough to cling to noodles, about
of boiling salted water until bright green pasta 5 minutes. Add fish sauce, if using,
and tender, 8–10 minutes. Using a Kosher salt and fold in steamed cockles and mussels.
slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl of ice 1 Tbsp. fish sauce (optional) Taste and season with salt if needed.
water and let cool. Drain and pat dry. 1 cup torn basil Transfer pasta to a platter. Top with
Meanwhile, mix vinegar, mustard, basil and drizzle with oil.
garlic, and 2 Tbsp. oil in a large bowl Grate tomatoes, cut side down, on the
to combine. Let sit 10 minutes for flavors largest holes of a box grater into a
to come together. medium bowl until only the skin is left. Grilled Red Mullet with
Add walnuts and Romano beans to Finely chop skin and add to bowl. Charred Onions and Pine Nuts
dressing. Finely zest lemon over beans Cut squid bodies in half lengthwise, 8 S E RV I N G S The textured sweet-and-
and add parsley. Season with salt and then cut each half crosswise into ½" sour condiment (agrodolce) would also
lots of pepper and toss to coat. Transfer pieces. Place in a small bowl. Cut be excellent spooned over vegetables
to a platter and drizzle with more oil. tentacles in half crosswise; add to bowl. or chicken or tossed with cooked grains.

12 0
 ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more Rub steak with ¼ cup oil; season with
⅓ cup pine nuts salt and sprinkle with pepper (it should SIX
4 small onions, unpeeled nearly cover both sides). Let sit at room
¼ cup drained capers temperature 30 minutes. DEGREES
¼ cup raisins Mix garlic, fish sauce, herbs, and
¼ cup red wine vinegar remaining ¼ cup oil in a small bowl. OF IGNACIO
Kosher salt Prepare a grill for medium-high
8 whole red mullets or 4 red indirect heat (for a gas grill, leave one MAT TOS
snappers, scales removed, cleaned or two burners off; for a charcoal grill,
1 cup parsley leaves with tender bank coals on one side of grill).
stems Grill steaks over direct heat until nicely The guest list
Aleppo-style or other mild red charred, about 2 minutes per side.
pepper flakes and lemon wedges Move steaks over indirect heat and
(for serving) continue grilling, basting with fish sauce
mixture, until browned all over, about Chef and ceramist
Preheat oven to 350° and prepare a 5 minutes per side. An instant-read Fernando Aciar
grill for medium-high heat. Clean grate thermometer inserted into the thickest Jessica Barros
well with a brush; oil grate. Toast pine part of steaks should register 120° The brilliant
nuts on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing for rare; temperature will rise to 125°
Gabriela Cámara,
once, until golden brown, about (or medium-rare) as they rest. Transfer to
c h e f o f S F ’s
5 minutes. Let cool (that’s it for the oven). a cutting board and let rest 20 minutes
Cala and Mexico
Grill onions, turning occasionally, before slicing against the grain.
until skins are blackened and onions have C i t y ’s C o n t r a m a r
softened (some of the juices may ooze Thomas Car ter,
out), 15–20 minutes. Transfer to a platter Brioche au Rhum Mattos’ business
and let cool 10 minutes. 8 S E RV I N G S Baba au rhum but with partner and head
Split onions in half. Remove outer peel store-bought brioche. Because only of debauchery
and discard. Separate onion layers into professionals can pull off the real thing. Candace Currin
individual petals. Transfer to a medium M a k r ’s J a s o n
bowl and mix in pine nuts, capers, raisins, 8 brioche sliders (about 1½ oz. Gregory, the only
and vinegar; season agrodolce with salt. each), split
one who knew how
Season fish cavity and skin with salt; 2¼ cups sugar
to drive the boat
drizzle with ¼ cup oil. Grill, resisting the 1½ cups dark rum
I n t e r p o l ’s
urge to turn, until skin is lightly charred 4 2x1" strips orange zest
VILLA BATELL, COMO, ITALY; LUXURYRETREATS.COM. PROP STYLING BY KALEN KAMINSKI. FOR MORE DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

and flesh is flaky and opaque down Pinch of kosher salt Daniel Kessler
to the bone, about 3 minutes for mullet 2 tsp. vanilla extract Unis designer
and 8 minutes for snapper. Place a 1 cup heavy cream Eunice Lee
metal spatula underneath fish, then lift 16 fresh figs, torn Susannah Liguori
and gently roll over onto the other side. Flora Bar chef
Cook until flesh is flaky and opaque, Preheat oven to 375°. Toast buns, cut (and Mattos
3–8 minutes, depending on fish. side down, on a baking sheet until mind reader)
If a small knife slides easily through the golden brown, about 6 minutes; let cool. Jake Nemmers
thickest part of flesh, fish is done. Meanwhile, cook sugar, rum, orange
Euni Park
Transfer fish to a platter and spoon zest, and salt in a medium saucepan
Zu n i C a f é ’s
agrodolce over. Top with parsley and over medium heat 5 minutes. Reduce
Hermès-loving
some red pepper flakes; drizzle with oil. heat to medium-low and simmer, stirring
Serve with lemon wedges. occasionally, 6 minutes. Pluck out and owner Gilbert
discard orange zest. Add vanilla and let Pilgram
syrup cool slightly. Transfer ½ cup syrup Ta r t i n e b a ke r
Grilled Bistecca with to a bowl; reserve the rest for serving. Chad Robertson
Herby Fish Sauce Working one at time, gently dunk and David M. Sullivan
8 S E RV I N G S Why baste your steak with turn brioche in syrup until evenly coated Chef, writer, and
fish sauce? It’s called umami. Get into it. and soaked through, about 30 seconds Speedo enthusiast
each. Place on a wire rack set over D a v i d Ta n i s
2 1½"–2"-thick porterhouse steaks paper towels; let sit 5 minutes. Repeat
Gabe Ulla,
(about 6 lb. total) dunking process with brioche and let rest
who has probably
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided 10 minutes (you want them to get sticky).
finished writing the
Kosher salt Beat cream in a medium bowl
3 Tbsp. freshly ground black pepper to medium-soft peaks. Divide brioche Estela book by now
2 garlic cloves, finely grated among plates and top with a dollop Alex Vallis
¼ cup fish sauce of whipped cream. Arrange a few figs BRVTVS designer
2 Tbsp. coarsely chopped marjoram, around and drizzle with a bit of the Caroline Ventura
rosemary, and/or thyme reserved syrup.

121
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Here you’ll discover a place where
hearts beat to the sound of live
outdoor concerts, the cascade of
waterfalls and the laughter of friends
enjoying another beautiful night.
Considered a Southeast culinary
hotspot, we’re serving up something
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venues, great vibe, great people.
To learn more, call 800.717.0023.
This may be the first time you’ve heard
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Greenville, South Carolina, but it
won’t be the last. This bustling little
city—now finding its place alongside
Charleston and Aspen at the top of
must-visit lists—takes its farm-to-fork
movement seriously, so it’s time to
think about getting there before the
secret is out and all the best 1
restaurants are impossible to book.

3
For seafood that’s off the hook, nobody does it better
than The Florida Keys. With the Atlantic on one side and
the Gulf of Mexico on the other, it’s a seafood bounty
you have to see to believe. From roadside fish stands
to seafood markets to our winter seafood festival,
there’s something for every taste. Of course, if the
world’s freshest seafood doesn’t reel you in, our
succulent Key Lime Pie surely will.

fla-keys.com 1.800.fla-keys
Most people know The Florida Keys & Key West as a great place to get away
from everything, but there’s so much more to it than that.

2 3
skip sunscreen
on a cloudy day?
no way. – Jennifer Garner

Even on the grayest day, the sun is up there shining.

So wear sunscreen every day. It’s a simple sun-safe habit and
one of the best things you can do for the health of your skin.

Blue skies or clouds above, share your favorite

under-the-sun moments #EverydayisaSUNday
© J&JCI 2018
 Switch to GEICO and save money for the things you love.
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prep school

FROM P. 105

delicious dipped in coffee. We got crafty with them in all kinds of desserts this month, whether A little goes a long
in tiramisù or crumbled over panna cotta or an ice cream sundae. After you quietly eat the entire
tin before you know what hit you, reuse it to hold tissues at your desk or to store those “calming” way, so start
cat treats, then order another one before you go into withdrawal.  A L E X B E G G S with a few dashes
and add to taste.”

FROM P. 116

IN CRUST
WE TRUST
Your pie dough can be more
prone to cracking if it sports
some dry spots where the
flour isn’t fully hydrated (this is
usually caused by undermixing
the dough). If this happens, all
is not lost! Try this handy method
for patching up a tear by using 1. 2. 3.
extra dough from the edge of the If you see cracks starting to form Use a knife or bench scraper Press the piece of dough into
crust as a sealant. Use a bench in your crust while rolling, dust to cut off a piece of dough from the crack with your fingers,
scraper or knife to make a clean with more flour to make sure the the edge that’s slightly focusing on sealing the edges.
cut off the edge of the crust. C.S. dough isn’t sticking to the surface. larger than the size of the tear. Continue to roll out normally.

12 6  M A Y 2 0 1 8
prep school

FROM P. 118

M O R E M AYO , P L E A S E
If you’re making a small batch of homemade mayo or aioli, emulsifying your
eggs and oil with a whisk and some elbow grease works perfectly well.
But if you’re whipping up a party-size amount, a food processor speeds up
the task considerably. Blitz your eggs first, then with the motor running, slowly
stream in the oil, occasionally scraping down the sides of the bowl with
a spatula. If the mixture gets too thick, add water by the tablespoonful. Now
mix in some flavor—we’ve got three ideas to get you started.  C . C .

GREEN GODDESS SPICY RANCHY

Chopped tender herbs Sriracha Onion powder

+ + +
Lemon juice Lime juice Buttermilk
+ + +
Mashed anchovy fillets Toasted sesame oil Chopped chives

Instant Coffee 2.0

Instant coffee has come a long way from the stale-tasting stuff I
used to keep around for emergencies (but never touched). A few of
our coffee-fanatic editors recently sampled seven different brands,
and our favorite by far was Mount Hagen Organic Fairtrade Instant

FOOD STYLING BY ANNA BILLINGSKOG. ILLUSTRATIONS: JOE WILSON (RAMPS, BALSAMIC VINEGAR, CRUST, COFFEE, TORTA PASQUALINA);
Coffee ($12 for 25 sticks; amazon.com), which won us over with
its rich, toasty, and slightly bitter (in a good way) flavor. It comes in
single-serving pouches so you can dump it into a mug, add hot
water, and drink up.  AS H L E Y M AS O N

FROM P. 116

TWICE AS NICE
Our stunning Torta Pasqualina, an Italian savory pie traditionally
served on Easter, is stuffed with a decadent mixture of eggs,
ricotta, and a mountain of Swiss chard leaves. The secret to a
crisp crust and luscious filling is to squeeze every bit of liquid out
of the blanched greens before chopping them up and adding to
the rest of the filling mixture. Wrap them in cheesecloth or a
dish towel for easy handling. If you want a little extra insurance,
do like senior food editor Andy Baraghani and give the greens
a second squeeze after chopping the leaves.  C . C .

FROM P. 116

EAT YOUR STEMS

BRUCE HUTCHISON (PORTRAIT).

A quick
will convince you to never toss them
1 cup distilled white vinegar, 2 Tbsp. kosher

chard stems to cover and chill.  C . C .

A NEW SITE FROM BON APPÉTIT

#healthyish
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basically
FRIT TATA RAMA
I’m hard-pressed to think of a recipe Mix and
more versatile than a frittata. It’s Match
perfect any time of day and delicious We’ve got
hot or at room temperature, plus some ideas to
it makes a meal out of your farmers’ get you started
market haul (and any leftovers you on the road to
have languishing in the fridge). Our frittata heaven.
stovetop method provides plenty Choose one
of visual cues every step of the way ingredient from
and delivers tender, golden results. each category
— C L A I R E SA F F I T Z and maybe an
extra veg or
1―BACON IS BEST 2―COVER AND COOK two. Just make
Cook 1 Tbsp. olive oil and 3 oz. Add 6 oz. new potatoes or baby sure everything
chopped bacon in a medium Yukon Gold potatoes, sliced into is cooked
nonstick skillet over medium-low, ¼"-thick rounds, and toss to coat. before you add
stirring, until crisp, 5–8 minutes. Add Cover skillet with a lid (or a baking the eggs and
1 chopped medium onion; cook, sheet) and cook until potatoes cheese.
stirring, until translucent, 5 minutes. are fork-tender, 12–15 minutes.

THE PROTEIN

Diced ham
Cooked
sausage
Chorizo

3―GRAB YOUR GREENS 4―CURDS ARE KEY 5―LE T IT FLOW THE VEG

Add 4 cups chopped Swiss Scrape egg mixture into skillet Once eggs are softly scrambled, Hardy greens
chard leaves. Season with salt and and stir with a heatproof spatula to smooth top, reduce heat to low, (kale, arugula,
pepper and cook, stirring, until distribute. Stir rapidly to create and let cook undisturbed until spinach)
wilted, 3 minutes. Whisk 8 large eggs curds, also scraping around edges edges are set, about 5 minutes. Lift Roasted
in a bowl until streak-free, then of skillet as egg sets. Push edges with spatula and tilt skillet to asparagus
mix in 4 oz. grated sharp cheddar. curds toward center of skillet. let uncooked egg flow underneath.
Cooked
broccoli

THE CHEESE

Crumbled feta
Fontina
Goat cheese
FOOD STYLING BY REBECCA JURKEVICH

6―TURN IT OUT 7―THE SLOW SE T 8―CUT AND SERVE THE STARCH

Continue to cook until egg is no Cook until eggs are completely Cut frittata into wedges and serve Canned
longer runny, about 3 minutes. Shake set, about 5 minutes. Let cool in alongside a salad with a lemony chickpeas
skillet to loosen frittata, then carefully skillet 5 minutes, then invert onto vinaigrette. Do ahead: Frittata Cooked grains
invert onto a plate. Add 1 Tbsp. a wire rack so the underside can be made 1 day ahead. Let
olive oil to skillet, swirl to coat, and faces up. (This lets steam escape cool; cover and chill. Bring to Corn
slide frittata back into pan. as the frittata cools.) room temperature before serving.

13 2  M A Y 2 0 1 8 P H OTO G R A P H S BY A L E X L AU
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recipe index sourcebook
Morning light TRAVEL PLANNER
meets last night’s
dinner party. THE GUIDE pp. 13–38
P. 110 BAR 63 Rolandstrasse 19, Zurich;
+41-44-241-7583; bar63.ch
B. PATISSERIE 2821 California St.,
San Francisco; 415-440-1700;
bpatisserie.com
COFFEE Grüngasse 4., Zurich;
coffeezurich.com
CRAFTSMAN AND WOLVES For
locations, go to craftsman-wolves.com
GAMPER RESTAURANT Nietengasse 1,
Zurich; +41-44-221-1177;
gamper-restaurant.ch
LE JULES VERNE Eiffel Tower, 2nd. Fl.;
Paris; +33-1-4555-6144;
lejulesverne-paris.com
TARTINE BAKERY & CAFE
600 Guerrero St., San Francisco;
415-487-2600; tartinebakery.com
THE SEASON pp. 43–52
KACHKA 720 SE Grand Ave., Portland,
OR; 503-235-0059; kachkapdx.com
LORING PLACE 21 W. Eighth St., NYC;
APPETIZERS Grain Salad with Not-Camel Romano Beans with 212-388-1831; loringplacenyc.com
Tomatoes and Meatballs with Mustard Vinaigrette MILTON’S 3025 Fourth Ave.,
Peanut Drinking
Cucumbers p. 118 Tahini Sauce p. 76 and Walnuts Saint Paul, VA; 276-738-3041
Snack p. 72
Peaches and Shaved p. 120 VIOLET BAKERY 47 Wilton Way,
Ramp Fritters p. 46 Swiss Chard, Potato,
Fennel Salad with Slow-Roasted Bell London; +44-20-7275-8360;
and Bacon Frittata
Sea Bream Crudo Red Pepper p. 116 p. 132 Peppers p. 68 violetcakes.com
with Lemon and THE WILLOWS INN 2579 W. Shore Dr.,
Olives p. 117 Sugar Snap Pea PASTA Tomatoes and Lummi Island, WA; 360-758-2620;
Salad p. 44 Haricots Verts with
Shrimp Empanadas Malfatti with willows-inn.com
Anchovies
p. 119 MAIN COURSES Pancetta and p. 117 THE FEED pp. 66–68
Cherry Tomatoes LULA CAFE 2537 N. Kedzie Blvd.,
BREAKFAST FISH, SEAFOOD
p. 117 CONDIMENTS Chicago; 773-489-9554;
Grilled Red Mullet
Breakfast Calzone Paccheri with Raspberry Jam with lulacafe.com
with Charred Onions
p. 116 Shellfish, Squid, Bitters p. 52 MARISOL at the MCA
and Pine Nuts p. 120
Marinated Beans and Tomatoes 205 E. Pearson St., Chicago;
Grilled Turbot with Slow-Roasted Bell
with Celery and p. 120 312-799-3599; marisolchicago.com
Celery Leaf Salsa Peppers p. 68
Ricotta Salata SUMMER LIKE AN ITALIAN
Verde p.118 VEGE TARIAN
p. 116 DESSERTS pp. 80–121
Paccheri with Torta Pasqualina
Peaches and Shaved p. 116 Brioche au Rhum CAFÉ ALTRO PARADISO 234 Spring St.,
Shellfish, Squid, and NYC; 646-952-0828;
Fennel Salad with p. 121
Tomatoes p. 120
Red Pepper VEGETABLES, Italian Sundaes
altroparadiso.com
p. 116 MEAT SIDE DISHES ESTELA 47 E. Houston St., NYC;
with Nutella
Swiss Chard, Potato, Beef Sliders with p. 119 212-219-7693; estelanyc.com
Blistered Asparagus
and Bacon Frittata Provolone and THE LAST BITE p. 138
Balsamic Onions p. 50 Rhubarb Custard
p. 132 CAFÉ EINSTEIN Kurfürstenstrasse 58,
p. 119 Marinated Beans Cake p. 48
Torta Pasqualina Berlin; +49-30-263-9190;
Grilled Bistecca with with Celery and Tiramisù with cafeeinstein.com
p. 116 Ricotta Salata
Herby Fish Sauce Amaretti Cookies HOTEL SACHER Philharmonikerstrasse 4,
SALADS p. 121 p. 116 p. 118 Vienna; +43-1-514-560; sacher.com
PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHAEL GRAYDON + NIKOLE HERRIOTT

Arugula with Italian Malfatti with MUSÉE NATIONAL EUGÈNE DELACROIX

FOR NUTRITIONAL INFO FOR THE RECIPES IN THIS
Plums and Parmesan Pancetta and Cherry ISSUE, GO TO BONAPPETIT.COM/RECIPES
6 Rue de Fürstenberg, Paris;
p. 120 Tomatoes p. 117 +33-1-4441-8650; musee-delacroix.fr

BON APPÉTIT IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2018 CONDÉ NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 63, NO. 4. Bon Appétit (ISSN 0006-
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13 6  M A Y 2 0 1 8
 T H E L AS T B I T E

Maira Kalman
What will you travel for?
THE VITALS
Born in
Tel Aviv
Raised in
The Bronx
You may have
seen her work in
The New Yorker,
The New York
Times, The Met
Favorite cakes
Lemon pound
cake and lemon
cheesecake
(with coffee!)

PART OF THE PENGUIN RANDOM HOUSE COMPANY. COPYRIGHT © 2018 BY MAIRA KALMAN. FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.
FROM CAKE BY MAIRA KALMAN WITH BARBARA SCOTTGOODMAN. REPRINTED BY ARRANGEMENT OF PENGUIN PRESS,

For artist and author Maira Kalman, the above image sums it chocolate Sacher torte. “You know what?” she concludes. “Food
up. “That painting is my ideal world,” she says: “Cake and coffee is important.” That’s evident to anyone familiar with her work,
served in a garden.” This page from her new book, Cake—which such as her 28 books featuring countless sweets and her illustra-
is as devoted to its title subject as you’d guess—was inspired by a tions for Michael Pollan’s Food Rules. Cake combines her whim-
trip to Delacroix’s museum in Paris. In fact, places where pastry sical paintings and wistful text with recipes by her friend Barbara
and history intersect figure prominently on Kalman’s travel bucket Scott-Goodman. Kalman depicts a pink cake in Rome, a sweet
list. “I will track down the patisserie where Gertrude Stein had remedy for heartbreak, and the honey cake her Israeli cousin
her éclair, contemplating whether she should buy the Cézanne— bakes for her visits. “I’m always going back to New York with a
we should all have such problems!” she says. “In Berlin I’ll visit suitcase full of cake,” she says, “which I distribute like a miser to
Café Einstein; in Vienna I’ll stay at the Hotel Sacher,” home of the family.” Not all souvenirs are for sharing.  C H R I S T I N E M U H L K E

13 8  M A Y 2 0 1 8
© 2018 glacéau. glacéau ®, smartwater ® and label are registered trademarks of glacéau.
 āĪĝĜġĬęĨĨĪħĮęĤĪĝĩĭġĪĝĜčljĝĪĝĜĚıāęĨġĬęĤčĦĝĀęĦģÕēđÿÖČÿƣ! &āęĨġĬęĤčĦĝ
You probably
forgot what
you ate.
But you
remember
everything
else.

Memories are made around meals.

The Savor card makes them more rewarding.
SM

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