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Hydropneumatic Test

1. The document provides steps for conducting a hydropneumatic test in gas-tight tanks, including necessary equipment like an air compressor, syphon, air hose, manifold, and water and dial manometers. 2. The procedure involves installing a syphon for safety, pressurizing the tank to 1.25 times the design pressure using an air compressor, checking for leaks around welds and bolts with soapy water, and repeating the test when empty to check concrete ring bolts. 3. Operators are warned to be careful of the sensing line and to purge condensed vapors from the manometer hose before testing to ensure an accurate pressure reading.

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remaya KC
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
160 views2 pages

Hydropneumatic Test

1. The document provides steps for conducting a hydropneumatic test in gas-tight tanks, including necessary equipment like an air compressor, syphon, air hose, manifold, and water and dial manometers. 2. The procedure involves installing a syphon for safety, pressurizing the tank to 1.25 times the design pressure using an air compressor, checking for leaks around welds and bolts with soapy water, and repeating the test when empty to check concrete ring bolts. 3. Operators are warned to be careful of the sensing line and to purge condensed vapors from the manometer hose before testing to ensure an accurate pressure reading.

Uploaded by

remaya KC
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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PROCEDURE FOR CONDUCTING AN HYDROPNEUMATIC TEST IN GAS-TIGHT TANKS

NECESSARY ITEMS

1. An air compressor (diesel powered for very big tanks, electric for medium and small tanks)
2. A syphon to in the top of the tank. Of sufficient diameter to allow for quick reléase of
pressure.
3. An air hose for the sensing line. At least 3/4 “ diameter air hose.
4. A manifold for releasing the pressure inside the tank.
5. A water hose manometer in inches.
6. A dial manometer with a scale between 0 and 5 psi

STEP BY STEP

1. Put a syphon above the tank as a safety valve that will stop the pressure build-up in case
you forget to close the valve/turn off the compressor.
2. The syphon must have some some 2 or 3 inches longer than the test pressure. For
example, if the test pressure is 48inH2O, the size of the syphon should be 50inH2O.
3. The water manometer should be set up so you can see the difference in inches of water.
4. When everything is ready, and the liquid level of the hydrostatic test is reached, air at 1.25
times the internal design pressure should be introduced above the liquid level during
enough time for leak checking around the tank.
5. After checking the condition of the Shell and bolts at ground level, reduce the pressure to
design pressure.
6. After pressure stabilization, have the inspector go up the roof and soak the welds with
soapy wáter, checking for leaks. Use soapy water in all the roof welds and check for leaks.
Air pressure should be kept during the whole inspection.
7. When the tank is empty, repeat the air pressure test to ensure tightness of the concrete
ring bolts.

During the test, extreme caution should be exercised so the sensing line doesn´t get bent or
strangled..

BEWARE OF CONDENSATION IN THE MANOMETER HOSE!

Condensation in the manometer hose will make you read a lower pressure than shown in the
water manometer, which can be dangerous. This usually happens when you connect this hose and
let it rest for a long time before actually making the test. Vapors in the product of the tank will
condensate in your sensing line. Please purge the hose with an airstream before the test!
Hydropneumatic test diagram (dial manometer not shown)

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