instructables

DIY Active Subwoofer

by Donny Terek

Hi everyone! Thanks for tuning in to this project of mine, I hope you'll like it and perhaps try to build it yourself! As always
I have included a detailed list of modi ed plans, a wiring diagram, product links and much more for your information on
the build. I encourage you to check my video rst before diving in to the build. Let's get started!

https://youtu.be/Kh8GEj95YDI

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Step 1: Design Goals and Plans

The main goal for this project was to build a subwoofer that would play pretty low and would have an integrated
ampli er capable of powering two other speakers all cramped inside a relatively compact enclosure. Fiddling around
with various woofers in winISD I have decided to go with a Tang Band woofer and a 2.1 ampli er for best results. As you
can see by the graph, the enclosure is tuned to 43Hz and has an F3 of around 37Hz which is pretty amazing considering
the price of the woofer and the compact enclosure that it needs. Of course it will not play that low cleanly due to port
noise and possible chu ng but will still perform great.
As you can see below, I have attached a set of plans, metric and imperial for all needs. You will also nd the template for
the control panel in the end of the plans which you can print out and glue to a piece of wood to have an accurately made
control panel. Feel free to download the plans and the wiring diagram for your personal use. I would love to see how
your project turned out!
Note that I have modi ed the plans therefore the speaker may look di erent than in the video. I have modi ed the plans
to use less components and be easier to build with an overall better design.

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 Download

https://www.instructables.com/F1K/Y772/JV2R8V7G/F1KY772JV2R8V7G.pdf

DIY Active Subwoofer: Page 7

 Download
https://www.instructables.com/F5H/YSD6/JV2R8V7K/F5HYSD6JV2R8V7K.pdf

Download

https://www.instructables.com/FRF/4L5Z/JV2R8V7M/FRF4L5ZJV2R8V7M.pdf

Step 2: Parts and Materials

You may have noticed that there are less components in the wiring diagram compared to the video. I did so to reduce
the number of the components used and simplify the overall build process of the subwoofer. I have also used a similar
ampli er that has the Bluetooth built in so that you don't need a separate module for that. Here you will nd the
complete list of parts and tools used for the build. Note that the parts can be ordered internationally.
Parts:
Tang Band W5-1138SMF subwoofer (US/EU) - https://parts-express.sjv.io/a1yN5M /
https://bit.ly/3GKCum6
150W 24V DC Power Supply - https://parts-express.sjv.io/QOBNMz / https://bit.ly/3XgvDpU /
https://bit.ly/3VUmvGo
2 ports glued end to end - https://parts-express.sjv.io/kj54ad / https://bit.ly/3Iv8b4j
TPA3116 Bluetooth ampli er - https://parts-express.sjv.io/e4DnAO / https://bit.ly/3WYi8vG or
https://bit.ly/3Zg0wwI

$5 OFF your rst App order on AliExpress - https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPN8FLo

AC input socket - https://bit.ly/3y77DZU / https://geni.us/iLxkjo
Banana connector sockets (2 pairs) - https://bit.ly/3Zo6Mmj / https://geni.us/tfFNA
Audio input jack - https://bit.ly/3GMsgly / https://geni.us/BNMj
MDF sealer - https://geni.us/9YyKv

Tools:
TS101 soldering iron - https://bit.ly/3hQm4PP / https://geni.us/owyDm5G
Multimeter - https://bit.ly/3VOFjYv / https://geni.us/UmrhyYk
Hot glue gun - https://bit.ly/3QdYfhg / https://geni.us/1dwxqIM
Wire stripper - https://bit.ly/34kBgLn / https://geni.us/6epIs
Cordless drill - https://bit.ly/2UiMSbL / https://geni.us/A5AZi
Jig saw - https://bit.ly/3GpY8w6 / https://geni.us/D8GC
Drill bit set - https://bit.ly/3S3i6zC / https://geni.us/ktAK1M
Step drill bits - https://bit.ly/3eM5GtB / https://geni.us/xYRx7J
Forstner bits - https://bit.ly/35snpjW / https://geni.us/F6it
Hole saw set - https://bit.ly/3YZU8tg / https://geni.us/hONP
Wood router - https://bit.ly/3I7Aplm / https://geni.us/6okRl
Roundover bits - https://bit.ly/3ijBZWU / https://geni.us/cc82
Center punch - https://bit.ly/3xslc8u / https://geni.us/o5WBEwB
Helping hand - https://bit.ly/3B9mIgt / https://geni.us/Yyqyte

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The main building materials that I used are 12mm (1/2"), 6mm (1/4") MDF boards for the enclosure and 4mm (1/8")
plywood for the control panel.

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Step 3: Let's Start the Build!

Once you got the plans printed out we can start the build. As you can see I am using a table saw to accurately cut the
MDF pieces out but I know that not many people have an access to a table saw. Therefore you can also use a jigsaw to
roughly cut the pieces out and sand them down later and perhaps use a bit of wood ller to get the edges as smooth as
possible.
To cut out the piece for the ampli er to go through, I rst marked the location of where I need to cut out and drilled four
holes in each corner, making sure to only drill halfway through on each side to avoid tearout. I then took a jigsaw and cut
as close to the line as possible. No need to be exact here, it is only important that the ampli er support panel sits nicely
on the edge. I also cut a hole for the port using a circle cutting jig on a router but you can use a 64mm (2 1/2") hole saw
so that the port sits snug.

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Step 4: More Cutting

Once the side panels were cut I glued the the port in place. Here I am using a PVC pipe as a port since I did not have the
proper one on hand therefore I glued the port in place before assembling and painting the enclosure. You should use
these ports and glue both of them end to end. Make sure you insert one rst through the hole on the side panel and
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then glue the other port to the rst once you have nished the enclosure in your desired paint or material.
I also cut the hole for the woofer with a recess to ush mount the woofer but you can simply cut the hole with a 127mm
(5") hole saw and not worry about the ush mounting.

Step 5: Glue Up!

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A self-explanatory and satisfying step - gluing the enclosure together. Use plenty of glue on the sides and make sure that
the edges are square. Note that I have glued port supports on the bottom of the enclosure which I have not included in
the plans - that is one more thing I have redesigned in the nal plans so that there is less cutting and the power supply
can be mounted on the bottom instead.
Clamping the enclosure together is recommended for best adhesion while the glue dries.
You have also probably noticed that I have glued the back panel support pieces along the back edge of the enclosure
but since I have redesigned the speaker, you will need to cut a larger back panel and skip the panel support pieces and
screw the back panel directly to the enclosure.

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Step 6: Sanding and Smoothing

Once the glue has fully dried I took an orbital sander for a quick job of sanding the enclosure and getting it ready for
paint. A sanding block can be used as well but will take much more time and e ort so use any help you can to speed up
the process.
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Once the edges were smooth I took the enclosure and rounded over the edges on the router using a roundover bit. It
turned out really nice with a nice radius all around the edges. Sandpaper can be used instead for a similar result.

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Step 7: The Back Panel

Notice that the back panel sits di erently than in the build plans above. In the redesigned plans you can see that there
are no panel support pieces, simplifying the build process so that the back panel can be screwed directly to the
enclosure.
I have decided to drill countersinks on the back panel so that the screws sit ush. I then placed the back panel in place
and drilled the screw holes. Make sure you drill with a smaller drill bit rst all the way through and then use a larger drill
bit only on the back panel so that the screws don't bite into the back panel but only clamp it in place.
Holes were then drilled for the AUX input jack and the speaker terminals. I also drilled the holes for the rubber feet and
placed 4 screws on the bottom to serve as stands while painting.

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Step 8: Preparing for Paint

To prepare the MDF for painting, I made a mixture of 50/50 wood glue (Titebond III) and water and brushed it on the
surface letting it cure overnight. This makes the surface hard and great for spray painting later. Once the glue mixture
has dried I lightly sanded the enclosure once again to get it ready for painting. Before spray painting I wiped the
enclosure with a solvent to remove any oils or residue that may have been left on top.

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Step 9: Applying the Paint

I applied a few light coats of grey primer on the surface. Once the primer has fully dried I sanded it with a 600 grit
sanding sponge for better paint adhesion. I recommend wiping the surface once again with solvent to remove any oils
before painting the color.
I used matte black spray paint for the top color coat, making sure it fully dries afterwards. I am using a heating lamp to
speed up the process.

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Step 10: Making the Control Panel

To make the control panel make sure you download the plans placed above and use the last page to cut out a template.
Double check with a ruler that the measurements are correct on the template once you print it out. You may need to
resize the image to get the correct size.
Simply cut out the template and glue it to the plywood piece. Mark the holes with a center punch and use a small drill bit
to drill all the holes rst. Then gradually use larger drill bits where needed to avoid tearout. Once the holes are drilled take
the template o and sand it smooth. I also applied clear coat on the panel for a nicer nish.

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Step 11: Mounting the Amplifier

Take the nished control panel and mount it to the ampli er. I have also soldered a green power indicator LED and
pushed it in from behind. I then placed the threaded inserts in the ampli er support panel and glued it in place on the
ledge of the enclosure making sure that the triangular pieces are also glued in place. I then pushed the ampli er in place,
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screwed it in from the inside and drill the holes for the screws.

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Step 12: Last Steps

Just a few more things left to do and we have a nished active subwoofer! I am placing a strip of adhesive foam around
the edge of the enclosure to make it airtight once the back panel is screwed in place. Same goes for the control panel
opening. Once that is done I mounted the speaker connectors and screwed the back panel in place. Don't forget to add
the rubber feet on the bottom!

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Step 13: Mounting the Woofer

Probably my favorite step of this build is mounting this beefy woofer in its place. For that put it in place rst and used a
hole punch to mark the holes for the screws. I then took the woofer out and drilled the holes through the panel. Using
the same adhesive foam tape to make sure the woofer sits sealed against the edge. I ten connected the woofer to the
ampli er and screwed it in place. Placing the ampli er knobs nishes the build.

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Step 14: Finished!

We can sit back and admire the little subwoofer that we have built. Just plug in the power cord, turn on the switch and
use your preferred method of audio input - whether it is through an aux cable or Bluetooth. The Bluetooth connection is
instant and stable, providing great sound and performance.

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Step 15: Final Thoughts

I am more than happy this subwoofer turned out. It packs a punch and is de nitely powerful enough for home use. It can
also output plenty of power to various di erent speakers for the best listening experience.
I hope you liked this project and perhaps learned something new! My hopes are that you will give this build a try yourself
and post it at the end of the Instructable so that me and others can admire your work! Feel free to post any questions or
comments down below, I will try my best to answer them.
Thank you for tuning in to this project of mine and I will see you on the next one!
- Donny

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Nice and simple! I plan to build this for my Edifier R1280DBS. Can it compatible with tht
bookshelf (Edifier R1280DBS) speaker? The Edifier has sub out port

Hello everyone! Someone may have already discovered this, I didn't look at the comments. The original youtube video is not the same 2.1 amplifier as in the descrip
tion, I have a bluetooth-free board. That would require a bluetooth board at 12:20 a play time, would I need what's its name? Thanks for the answer if anyone knows!

me gusto el video muy bonito y constructivo lo unico malo de la pelcula es que no tengo las
herramientas adecuadas para hacerlo si preo muy bueno.gracias
what is the small pad for the power supply and the amplifier sound connect and the jack ?

nice work and thanks for the drawing

wow i must try this thank you

Great job, Thanks! Really good stuff!

Great project. I think I'd look for a more efficient sub, although all the other specs, especially
Xmax look great.
Thank you! I chose this sub to be able to use it in a small enclosure producing great results.

Thanks for your thorough documentation!

My pleasure as always!

Great job! Thanks for sharing the tips and tricks that take a build to the next level!

Thank you so much!

DIY Active Subwoofer: Page 50

Hi, what a great looking project with a nice clear set of build instructions.
Can you please explain ,what is the purpose of the ports and the piece of pvc pipe? is it for
ventilation? Thanks for a great job!
Hi, thank you so much!
The purpose of the ports used in many speakers is to improve the efficiency of the low
frequencies produced by the speaker. Generally speaking, it helps most speakers play into lower
frequencies. The length and width of the port needs to be calculated according to the speaker
used in the enclosure.
I hope that answers your question!
NICE WORK!!!

Thank you!!

Very nice project!

From your building skills to your video production and presentation, you seem to have a very
disciplined and methodical approach to everything you do and it shows. Well done!
Thank you so much! That truly means a lot to me :)

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