Production Management of Textiles
Production Management of Textiles
OF TEXTILES
INTRODUCTION:
Spinning is a twisting technique to form yarn from fibers.
The fiber intended is drawn out, twisted, and wound onto a
bobbin. A few popular fibers that are spun into yarn other than
cotton, which is the most popular, are bamboo, and synthetic
polyester. Originally done by hand using a spindle whorl,
starting in the 500s AD the spinning wheel became the
predominant spinning tool across Asia and Europe. The
spinning jenny and spinning mule, invented in the late 1700s,
made mechanical spinning far more efficient than spinning by
hand, and especially made cotton manufacturing one of the
most important industries of the Industrial Revolution.
RAW MATERIALS:
Yarn can be made from a number of natural or synthetic
fibers, or a blend of natural and synthetic fibers.
Natural fibers
Synthetic fibers
Natural fibers :
Cotton:
Silk:
Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can
be woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed
mainly of fibroin and is produced by the larvae of the moth
Bombyx mori. Silk production is thought to have begun in
China and silk thread and cloth manufacture was well-
established by the Shang dynasty (1600-1050 BCE).
Linen:
Synthetic fibers:
Some examples of synthetic fibers that are used as yarn
are nylon, acrylic fiber, rayon, and polyester. Synthetic fibers
are generally extruded in continuous strands of gel-state
materials. These strands are drawn (stretched), annealed
(hardened), and cured to obtain properties dsesirable for later
processing. Synthetic fibers come in three basic forms: staple,
tow, and filament. Staple is cut fibers, generally sold in
lengths up to 120 mm. Tow is a continuous "rope" of fibers
consisting of many filaments loosely joined side-to-side.
Filament is a continuous strand consisting of anything from 1
filament to many. Synthetic fiber is most often measured in a
weight per linear measurement basis, along with cut length.
Denier and Dtex are the most common weight to length
measures. Cut-length only applies to staple fiber. Filament
extrusion is sometimes referred to as "spinning" but most
people equate spinning with spun yarn production.
Maharashtra:
Maharashtra is the largest producer and produces 29.78
per cent of the total cotton production of India. Maharashtra is
a traditional producer of cotton. The lava soil of Deccan
plateau is world renowned for cotton production and is
popularly known as the black cotton soil.
Karnataka:
The state also contributes to 11% of the country’s total
wool production. 6% of the cotton produced in the country
comes from Karnataka. Karnataka ranks at the second
position in garment exports when the value of the exports is
considered. The present garment export of Karnataka is
estimated to be around Rs. 4000 crores.
TRANSPORT:
The bulk amount of cotton transports through Truck,
Bus, Lorry and Train….etc
SPINNING:
Spinning is the twisting together of drawn-out strands of
fibers to form yarn, and is a major part of the textile industry.
TYPES OF SPINNING:
PRODUCTION PROCESS:
BLOW ROOM
COMBING:
Combing is a method for preparing carded fibre for
spinning. Combing is divided into linear and circular
combing. The Noble comb is an example of circular combing.
The French comb is an example of linear combing. The
process of combing is accompanied by gilling, a process of
evening out carded or combed top making it suitable for
spinning. Combing separates out short fibres by means of a
rotating ring or rectilinear row of steel pins. The fibres in the
'top' it produces have been straightened and lie parallel to each
other. When combing wool, the discarded short fibres are
called noils, and are ground up into shoddy.
There are two main systems of preparing fibre for yarn:
the worsted system and the woolen system. The worsted
system is defined by the removal of short fibres by combing
and top preparation by gilling. In the woolen system, short
fibres are retained, and it may or may not involve combing.
In cotton manufacture, the Heilmann comber was
superseded by the Naismith comber. In the worsted process a
Noble comber was a common make, but now a French
comber is more common.
The Noble comb is no longer used in worsted system as
technology is inefficient. Noble combing may have used for
woolen system or long fibres 250 mm+. The predominant
technology for all fibres is the French comb system. A cotton
comber is scaled and simplified mechanically version of a
rectilinear comb relative to a mean fibre length (similar to
Naismith comber). This scaled version of the wool comb can
be seen in a stroke of the components used in a cotton
comber. The scaled down has the purpose of accommodating
fibre length and fibre physics requirements. The same scaled-
up version of a comb can be seen in the way flax is combed.
SIMPLEX/SPEED FRAME:
RING FRAME:
WINDING:
Random Winding:
YARN:
Yarn can be defined as an extensive length of linked
fibers formed by attenuation and twist which meets the
demand of basic raw materials for the production of textiles,
especially in knitting, weaving, sewing, embroidery as well as
cable and cord making. The process of manufacturing yarn is
called spinning.
STRUCTURE:
Spun yarn :
Q 12.75mm
6 sts and 15mm and 6 sts and
Jumbo jumbo, roving and and
fewer higher fewer
larger higher
Packing:
Hank: Yarn wound into a large circle and then folded. You
need to wind hanks into a ball before you can use them. If you
try to knit with the yarn in hank form, you’ll quickly end up
with a tangled mess.
Fireproof construction
Cotton mills were huge fire risks, cotton fibres in the air
could form an explosive mixture in their gas-lit interiors. The
first mills using fireproof construction were built in
Shropshire and Derbyshire in the 1790s and Philips & Lee's
mill built in Salford in 1801–2. Fireproofing took the form of
cast iron columns and beams from which sprang jack arches
that were infilled with ash or sand and covered with stone
flags or floorboards. In some mills timber was also eliminated
from the roof structure which was supported by cast or
wrought iron trusses. Until the properties of cast iron were
properly understood some mills constructed using the early
technology collapsed. In Manchester extensive testing of cast
iron as a structural material was carried out by Eaton
Hodgkinson and William Fairbairn in the early 1820s.
Fireproof construction was expensive and timber, sometimes
clad in plaster or metal continued to be used throughout the
19th century. Rolled steel beams and reinforced concrete
flooring was introduced in a limited way in the 1880s but not
widely adopted in Lancashire mills until the 20th century.
Other factors
Cotton is sensitive to temperature and humidity. Heating
systems used wrought iron pipes suspended at a height of 7
feet (2.1 m) to carry steam under pressure. In summer the
system was barely used but in winter the boilers would be
fired up two hours before the shift started to warm up the mill.
As heat was applied the humidity dropped and system of
humidifiers, either atomizers which played an air jet against a
jet of water or ones that injected a stream/air mixture into the
room.
Early fire fighting systems used sprinklers supplied by
water captured on flat roofs in shallow tanks. Later mills had a
water tank at the top of the stair tower. Water for the
sprinklers had to be protected from freezing and evaporation.
Water pressure needed to be above 7 psi and the header tank
at least 15 feet (4.6 m) above the highest sprinkler. The
provision of light, water tanks and heating system defined the
structure and shape of the mill.
Health of the workers:
A cotton mill was not a healthy place to work. The air in
the mill had to be hot and humid to prevent the thread from
breaking: 18 °C to 26 °C and 85% humidity was normal. The
air in the mill was thick with cotton dust, which could lead to
byssinosis – a lung disease.
Protective masks were introduced after the war, but few
workers wore them as they made them uncomfortable in the
stifling conditions. The same applied to ear protectors.
The air led to skin infections, eye infections, bronchitus
and tuberculosis. The noise levels in a weaving shop, where
the shuttles in 500 plus looms were being thumped 200 times
a minute led to levels of deafness in all who worked there.
The lubrication was carcinogenic and led to cancers of the
mouth and cancer of the scrotum; known as mule-spinners
cancer.
A mill worker could expect to work a thirteen-hour day,
six days a week with two weeks off for the wakes week
holidays in summer. Unsurprisingly, a series of Factory Acts
were passed to attempt to ameliorate these conditions.
In the early days when the cotton towns were expanding
rapidly, living conditions for the workers were poor. Badly
planned housing was seriously overcrowded. Open sewers and
shared privies led to diseases such as cholera; Manchester was
hit by an epidemic in 1831 that claimed hundreds of lives.
In Rammohan textiles
Production team
Gents = 40
Ladies = 50
H.R department
Total = 10
Finance department
Total = 15
Marketing department
Total = 10
MARKETTING:
GLOBAL MARKETTING:
The major market players in the global textile yarn market are
DOMESTIC MARKETTING:
The textile industry in India traditionally, after
agriculture, is the only industry that has generated huge
employment for both skilled and unskilled labour. The textile
industry continues to be the second-largest employment
generating sector in the India. It offers direct employment to
over 35 million in the country.
According to the Ministry of Textiles, the share of
textiles in total exports during April–July 2010 was 11.04%.
During 2009–2010, the Indian textile industry was pegged at
US$55 billion, 64% of which services domestic demand. In
2010, there were 2,500 textile weaving factories and 4,135
textile finishing factories in all of India. According to AT
Kearney’s ‘Retail Apparel Index’, India was ranked as the
fourth most promising market for apparel retailers in 2009.
India is the second largest producer of fibre in the world
and the major fibre produced is cotton. 60% of the Indian
textile industry is cotton-based. Other fibres produced in India
include silk, jute, wool, and man-made fibres.
India is first in global jute production and shares 63% of
the global textile and garment market. India is second in
global textile manufacturing and also second in silk and
cotton production. 100% FDI is allowed via automatic route
in textile sector. Rieter, Trutzschler, Saurer, Soktas, Zambiati,
Bilsar, Monti, CMT, E-land, Nisshinbo, Marks & Spencer,
Zara, Promod, Benetton, and Levi’s are some of the foreign
textile companies invested or working in India. Between
January and July 2021, India exported textile products worth
Rs 1.77 lakh crore, which is 52.6 per cent more than the same
period last year.
Mumbai, Tiruppur and Erode are mainly deal with
Rammohan textiles.
In Rammohan textiles