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4L80E Build Tips and Tricks

The document provides tips for rebuilding a 4L80E transmission using a specific rebuild kit. It describes several modifications that can be made to enhance transmission performance and reliability, including rollerizing components, setting rear endplay, modifying the valve body and accumulator, and drilling bleed holes in the direct clutch drum. Instructions are provided for installing bushings, shims, and bearings as well as checking rear servo clearance.

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231 views

4L80E Build Tips and Tricks

The document provides tips for rebuilding a 4L80E transmission using a specific rebuild kit. It describes several modifications that can be made to enhance transmission performance and reliability, including rollerizing components, setting rear endplay, modifying the valve body and accumulator, and drilling bleed holes in the direct clutch drum. Instructions are provided for installing bushings, shims, and bearings as well as checking rear servo clearance.

Uploaded by

Sjoling8211
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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4L80E Build Tips and Tricks

Congratulations! You have purchased the best rebuild kit on the market for the 4L80E. It should have all the
parts you need to build a 4L80E to our exacting standards and proven methods assuming no hard parts
damage.

We have developed some methods for the DIY’er to save money and still build an excellent unit without a
“boxed” valve body kit. Our Stage II rebuild kit is complete enough that it includes many of the common
upgrades some of these kits do, such as a pump boost valve and pressure regulator spring. The rest is taken
care of with some minor hydraulic changes to the internals, valve body separator plate, and pump.

Included in our kit are the necessary parts to rollerize the output shaft to case, set rear endplay, rollerize the
forward hub to direct drum interface, perform the “dual feed” modification to the direct (3​rd​) clutches,
prevent centrifugal apply in low gear, valve body separator plate orifice modification, accumulator
modification, converter charge modification, and line pressure increase.

Included in the kit is a Torrington bearing and shims that will fit around the extra capacity case bushing
supplied. When installing the case bushing, it is best to install it with the cutouts facing towards the front of
the transmission case. It should protrude into the case enough to provide a lip to catch the shim and
Torrington, but not so much that it will be rubbing the output shaft flange. Once this bushing is installed and
the rear geartrain is ready to be dropped in place, a shim should be set on the case, then the Torrington
installed black side down (towards shim/case). Typically, a .020” shim is a good place to start to get rear
endplay in the ballpark and check from there.

Our suggestion is to be sure the reaction carrier (front planetary) band surface is smooth without grooves or
scoring. Slight grooving should be smoothed using a lathe and stone, then polished. A new Borg Warner band
is provided in the kit. It’s life and the function of reverse and possibly a transbrake is dependent on proper
surface on the reaction carrier as well as setting the servo clearance as described later.

The next modification we suggest and recommend on ALL 4L80E builds is the dual feed modification. This
consists of leaving the seal off the direct drum itself. You must keep both seals on piston itself (if using an
aluminum piston instead of bonded). You will be removing the seal that divides the piston from the drum.
Simply omit if from the build. You also leave the 2​nd​ ​sealing ring from the front of the center support. Both
these seals separate the direct from the reverse circuit. We are effectively combining these circuits so the
clutches see maximum apply area in 3​rd​ ​gear. When using a stock separator plate a3/8” cup plug (see page #2)
must be installed in the reverse passage feeding the center support as shown. Cup seal opposite side, circled
in blue.

Page #1
Page #2
While the direct drum is apart, we recommend using a 1/16” drill bit to drill a bleed hole at the outer edge of
the drum to prevent centrifugal apply of the 3​rd​ ​clutches in low gear and also aid in transbrake release if
applicable. Take care not to damage the sealing surface. To add the extra clutch and steel provided with the
kit you will need to discard the wave plate in the direct drum assembly.
You will use the .077” thick steel plates in the direct drum to fit 6 clutches. You will use the .090 thick steel
plates in the forward drum without a cushion plate.
With our intermediate spring retainer, you will only use 6 springs total, as seen below. Then install the hd
spring retainer and clip.

Once all these mods are done, during assembly, install the extra heavy intermediate pressure plate snap ring
provided. It may be necessary to sand it with a DA sander or similar to make it fit. Leave the open end or gap
at the 3 o’clock position, opposite of the intermediate band anchor for maximum support.
We also have included a pre-machined forward hub assembly with Torrington bearing. It should be installed
using TransGel or other assembly gel.

Page #3
We recommend drilling a .093” hole from the line pressure to the converter charge circuit in the pump as
shown. This prevents the converter from suffering charge loss during max line pressure situations.

Provided with the kit is a new PR spring. This will provide enhanced line pressure.

The valve body separator plate and accumulator mods have a large part in the shift feel of the unit and also
affect long term reliability of hard parts and clutch packs. For stock or towing applications, leave all
accumulators functional, maintaining all the stock checkball positions, making only small changes to the
orifice sizing.

2​nd​ ​feed at .086-.096”

3​rd​ ​feed at .096-.125” depending on desired feel.

4​th​ ​feed at .082-.096”

For most combos with aftermarket converters, block the accumulators in the accumulator housing using the
block off plate provided, 2​nd​ ​feed to .110-.125”, 3​rd​ ​feed to .125-.140”, 4​th​ ​feed to .093-.125”.

Page #4
To check rear servo clearance, disassemble the servo as shown. When complete, reassemble by following
specific valve body instructions for normal assembly.

Temporarily assemble the servo apply pin, washer, and servo piston together to check servo/band clearance.
You are leaving the spring off to be able to feel the band tension as it clamps the reaction carrier.

The servo bore seen here has a sealing surface for the o-ring on the servo piston. The lip shown in red is the
beginning of the sealing surface. This is where you want the piston to be and allow rotation of the output shaft
in both directions. (Note: It will be easier to turn one way than the other). You want minimal travel from this
point to apply the band. Preferably less than .100” of servo travel by hand. This prevents loss of reverse as the
band wears. Use a longer/shorter pin or weld to lengthen the pin and grind to shorten.

Lastly, install 4 checkballs in the case as shown.

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