Workshop Practice I Manual
Workshop Practice I Manual
Engineering Faculty
Electrical Engineering Department
Electricians, repair and maintenance men in general work in electrical repair or wiring
shops where wounds and burns may occur, as a rule, because of the use of faulty tools or
incorrect working methods. Safety engineering rules existing in electrical work require
that the tools be always maintained in a fit working condition.
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considerable quantities of highly inflammable solvents (petrol's bevel, toluene, etc.).
Any open flame is likely to ignite vaporized solvents. Because of this smoking is
strictly prohibited in impregnating shops. These shops should have very good forced
ventilation in order to reduce the concentration of vaporized solvents in air, because
such vapors increase the fire hazard and are harmful to workers.
Electric shocks are received by touching the metal parts of the equipment, machine or
other devices when the phase wire (live wire) comes in contact with the metal parts of the
equipment, machines etc. The outcome of these shocks may be so dangerous that it may
even cause death depending upon the strength of the current and on the path of the
current it takes in passing to earth.
The effect of electric shocks is dependent up on the following Factors:
a. The strength of current
b. The frequency of the current
The alternating current of low frequency between 1 mA are just bearable but between 8
mA and 15 mA results a painful shock and contract the muscles too. The leakage current
between 20 mA and 50 mA passing through the chest may stop breathing and between
100 mA and 200 mA may result the failure of heart. Current above 200 mA may cause
burning of skin. It is not only the leakage current which gives shock but also other factors
like supply voltage and resistance of body which help in giving the shock i.e. leakage
current is formulated as.
b. Frequency of currents
The low frequency of the current may result very severe shocks. The direct current shock
is also very dangerous.
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Survival is possible, if the path of leakage current is not found through chest or heart but
it may result severe bums on the parts of the body depending upon the value of current.
2. Treatment (care) of Electric shocks
The following points should be taken into consideration at the time of treatment of
electric shocks: -
A. Switching off the current or Isolation of the supply
B. Removing the person from the contact of current
C. Removing the person from fire.
D. Treating the bums.
E. Giving artificial respiration.
F. Sending the person to hospital.
When a person comes in contact with live conductor switch off the mains immediately if
it is near by and if the switch is at far-off distance, then pull the plug out, if possible or
cut the wires with insulated pliers from the switch board or from the wiring circuit.
Push the person with a dry stick of wood or pull him from his clothes, if they are dry to
remove him from the contact of the current with out touching his body.
If the persons clothes are smoking, extinguish the sparks; if catches fire, turn the clothes.
Wrap him in the blanket or coat and roll him on the ground to extinguish the fire.
If any bums or wound occurs on the body of the operator, use proper oil or ointment on
them and cover them with proper dressing.
Method Lay the person in such a way that no pressure effects his bums on the body.
Knee over the person's back and place both the hands on his back near the
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lowest ribs with your fingers spread. Now press gradually and slowly for
about 3 seconds. Keep the person warm throughout.
Now relax the pressure slowly and come to the original position for about 2
seconds. Repeat the process for about 12 to 15 times until the breathing to the
person is restored.
Even after apparent recovery, send the casualty to the hospital to ensure that the person is quite
well or call at the doctor for check-up.
Electric fire will be very common if the proper care of the electrical installation and
circuits is not taken. Electric fire will occur when the inferior quality materials are used in
electrical installation or when the circuit is over loaded i.e. heavy load like heaters, water
coolers, air coolers and other electric motors are used on a particular circuit or when the
proper protective devices are not employed in the circuit for safety or when the insulation
of the wires is damaged and wires come in contact together or when the live parts come
in Contact with the earthed point in electrical circuit, etc.
It should be understood very well that how the fire can take place in case of short circuits, over-
loads or when the live parts come in contact with earth and also in case of using inferior quality
materials and not using the proper rating of protective devices in the Circuits.
Taking the case of inferior quality materials used in the circuit, if excessive current flows
through them, they will be heated up, get damaged and even catch fire.
Production of heat is equal to Q = I2 .R.t when the current becomes excessive the
produced heat will be come to the square of the current.
In case of short circuit and over loads also, the excessive current flows through the wires and if
the fuse connected in the circuit is not of proper rating, it will not melt and the insulation of wires
will be heated up, will get damaged and even catch fire.
In case, when the live parts come in contact with the metal parts and the circuit is not properly
earthed and fuse is not proper rating, then parts will get heated, damaged and the insulating
materials used in the circuit can catch fire.
These electric fires may result the loss of lives property and potential or voltage of the line. Thus
avoidance of electric fire is a must. Hence it becomes very necessary that:
A- The material used in the electrical installation must be
of superior quality and according to the season.
B- The protective devices used in the circuit must be of
proper rating according to the load in the circuit.
C- The earth connection must be very strong and proper.
D- Over loading of a particular circuit should be avoided.
E- The wires used in the circuit must be of strong
insulation.
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F- The joints should be mechanically strong.
A- Avoid working on line parts and switch them off before starting the work on
them.
B- Insulate your self on the insulating material like wood, plastic, etc. Before
starting the work on live mains and your hands and feet must be dry.
C- At the time of working on the high voltage, be sure that the floor is not made of
conductive material i.e. of concrete etc.
D- Be sure that your any part of the body may not come in contact with earth,
metallic casing, and metal plates or cross arms at the time of working on high
voltage.
E- Avoid working at that place where your head is liable to touch the live parts,
mains and always make the circuit dead before starting the work if it is
unavoidable.
F- Always use your feet with shoes wear on rather your hands at the time of
rescuing the person from shock if any insulated material is not available.
G- The fitting of the electrical installation must be tight enough.
H- The electrical installation must be free from moisture effect i.e. drinking water
pipe should not be installed with the wiring pipes.
In addition to this, the following fire fighting equipment's should be kept ready all the
time:
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Note: - In case of electric fires, never use water. When the electric supply is on cut off
the electric supply by cutting the wires with insulated pliers or wooden stick or off the
mains switch after isolation the circuit completely, the water then can be used to
extinguish the fire.
F- Always use your feet with shoes wear on rather your hands at the time of rescuing
the person from shock if any insulated material is not available. G- The fitting of the
electrical installation must be tight enough. H- The electrical installation must be free
from moisture effect i.e. drinking water pipe should not be installed with the wiring
pipes.
In addition to this, the following fire fighting equipment's should be kept ready all the
time:
Note: - In case of electric fires, never use water. When the electric supply is on cut off
the electric supply by cutting the wires with insulated pliers or wooden stick or off the
mains switch after isolation the circuit completely, the water then can be used to
extinguish the fire.
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COMMON TYPES OF ELECTRICAL HAND TOOLS
Electrical tools
1. Rules:-used for measuring and marking measurements.
a. Folding rules- this can conveniently be folded in to a size suitable for carrying in a
pocket while one is working.
b. Straight rules.
Caution: - Avoid breaking the folding rule at its joints when opening and closing it.
2. Try-square: - used to find a---------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------nd check true vertical position, to check the precision of 90-degree
corners, and used to measure distances or lengths.
3. Level gauge: - used for the determination of the levelness or horizontality of surfaces,
checking corners, and measuring.
4. Plumb-bob (made of solid metal):-used for establishing exact vertical position by
suspending it from an overhead point.
5. Chisels: - used to cut metals as well as dig holes or grooves in brick or concrete
walls.
a. Cold chisel: - used to cut metal, brick, concrete or any hard material (forged from
alloy steel, hardened and tempered).
b. Cape-chisel: - have sufficient sized striking heads and a narrower cutting edge
which enables it to penetrate hard surfaces, particularly metal, somewhat better than
a cold chisel.
c. Star-chisel or Star drill: - used to punch a hole through brickwork, concrete
construction and other stonework.
d. Wood chisel:-used for performing soft operations such as making grooves on
wooden construction.
6. Hammers: - used to drive chisels, straighten metals, pick out nails, etc.
a. Claw-hammer:-
i) Straight claw hammer: - may be inserted beneath, behind or between boards
or timbers to be detached.
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ii) Curved claw hammer: - mainly used for picking out nails.
b. Ball-peen hammer: - provides greater stricking power needed in such cases as
driving a chisel or a star drill in to brick or concrete walls.
c. Peen hammer: - used for heavy duties since it provides far more greater power.
7. Goggles: - used to protect the eye from the arc during welding or from flying chips
during grinding and borring holes on brick or concrete surfaces.
8. Glove: - used to protect the hand from mechanical damage, from the burning affect of
acids or from the high voltage of electrical installation (e.g. 500V).
9. Hacksaw:- used for cutting metallic parts such as cable armor and conduit tubes
a. Straight handle hacksaw.
b. Pistol – grip hacksaw- insures a better grip
10. Reamer:- used
a. to remove burns remaining on the inner walls of a conduit after a cut has been
made with a hacksaw.
b. To enlarge a hole in a metal box.
11. Hickey or conduit bender: - used to bend conduits, or electrical pipes, with out
ruining the true circular cross section of the conduit by kinking or flattening it.
12. Putty knife: - used for re-plastering small holes are walls or ceilings. E.g. grooves
drilled during the installation of cables or conduits.
13. Trowel: - serves the same purpose as the putty knife.
14. Pocket knife (electrician knife):- used for removing insulation in electrical wiring.
The blades should make of high-grade, tempered steel. The knife should be strong,
serviceable and, if possible, of the closing type.
15. Nipper: - used for cutting wires.
16. Wire striper: - used for removing insulation from ends of thin wires.
17. Insulation remover:-for skinning wires of different sizes as well as for cutting them.
18. Pliers; - for cutting and gripping wires.
a. Side cutting pliers (some times combination pliers):- used for cutting and
gripping wires, it also pulls on snake wire through pipes.
b. Diagonal cutting pliers:-used to cut of wires close to connecting points, e.g. at the
switch and outlet terminals which are located close to the fitting so that the side -
cutting pliers may not be able to get close enough.
c. Gas- or slip joint pliers: - the sip joining permits the jaws to be extended to a
greater width than is possible with a cutting plier of the same size. It is used for
gripping wires and other things, cutting wires and holding conduits while making-
up lock nuts and bushings.
d. Flat-nose pliers:-used for bending, twisting and forming conductors and bus bars.
e. Round nose pliers:- for looping conductors in order to connect them to the
terminals.
f. Long (sharp) nose pliers:- used for pulling wires and other materials through
narrow holes (narrow areas).
19. Indenter:-used to join wires or create a firm connection between them; also used for
gripping conduits and pipes.
20. Fish tape or snake wire:- used for passing wire or cable through a conduits, pipes or
through spaces in the walls and under the floor of a house (made of sufficiently
flexible material, stiff enough to withstand obstacles).
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21. Voltage indicator or neon tester: - for testing the presence of voltage in a certain
line. The springs ensure good contact between the components of the tools; the
resistors are used for limiting the current flowing through the lamps as well as the
voltage applied to them.
22. Test lamp: - for the same purpose as the voltage indicator.
23. Soldering iron: - used for tinning and soldering the connections of wires or other
materials which can be easily soldered.
24. Electric oven or furnace:- used for heating and melting solder or lead to be used
in the tinning process.
25. Portable transformer: - for welding and terminating wires.
26. Blow torch (alcohol, benzene or kerosene):- used to produce a portable flame with a
fairly temperature (up to 100 degree C) to melt solders.
27. Files: - for filling contacting and soldered surfaces as well as for cleaning the
soldering iron.
a. Half round file –commonly used in the electric shop.
b. Flat file.
c. Square file.
d. Three-square or triangular file.
e. Round file.
28. Brush :- for cleaning files after work and removing chips during some cutting
operations.
29. Screw drivers:-used to drive screws in to (out of) wood or some other materials.
a. Standard blade screw driver: - for general used.
b. Square blade screw driver:- a strong screw driver used for turning stubborn or
heavy screws. It has the possibility of increasing hand pressure and a turning
moment by means of a pliers or a wrench.
c. Thin blade screw driver: - used for installing a screw past an obstacle or a near by
object (e.g. inside small holes).
d. Philips head screw driver:-used for working on cross head screws mostly on
electronics gadgets or auto electric circuits.
30. portable vice: - It can be attached to any bench and parts to be cut or tapped can be
reliably anchored in it.
31. Pipe cutter:-for cutting pipes, often used together with the building mechanism.
32. Tap:-used to make threads in holes (internal thread).
33. Die-block of metal with a screw spiral cut inside it- used for making external
threads on conduits or pipes.
34. Die-stock-holder of the die.
35. Bolt cutter-used for cutting bolts and other round pieces of metal.
36. Spanners or wrenches:-generally used for screwing in and removing nuts and bolts
having rectangular, square or hexagonal heads.
a. Non- adjustable or open-end wrench:-a set of these wrenches could conveniently
be used when inspecting electrical equipment in the repair shop.
b. Pipe wrench: - used for assembling and disassembling threaded and rigid pipes.
c. Adjustable spanners:-for tightening and loosening small as well as large nuts and
bolts. It can be advantage when inspecting electrical equipment at side of its
installation to avoid carrying several sizes of wrenches.
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d. Tap-wrenches:-holds the tap during the making of internal threads.
e. Box spanner or socket wrenches:-used to (un) screw bolts and nuts sunk in
cylindrical holes. They can also be conveniently used to tighten and loosen exposed
nuts and bolt heads.
i) Box spanner provides continuous rotation since there is no shift.
ii) There is no slipping off the spanner since it embraces the nut from all sides,
hence greater force can be applied.
37. Divides:-used for transferring measurements from scale on to the metal as well as
for drawing circles on the metal.
38. Scratch (needle):- used to draw lines and make an impression on soft surfaces.
E.g. making an impression to start wood screws.
39. Scissors:-for cutting sheet metals.
40. Center punch:-used to make centers or starting punches in metallic surfaces to load
the twist drills properly during drilling. It is made of high grade tool steel, hardened
at both ends.
41. Hand drill:-holds round shank drills during drilling operation.
42. Rotchet Bit brace:-permits a half swing, even a quarter swings, of the handle where
a full swing of the bit brace is made impossible by obstructions.
43. Electric (hand) drill:-portable enough to be carried to places other than the
workshop and connected to the power source by means of a long cord.
44. Bit extension: - used to extend the length of the bit brace and the wood bit so that the
combination can drill to a greater depth.
45. Floor steel (cabinet scraper) :-used for cutting the tongue along the edges of a
section of parquet (wooden flooring)
46. Compass saw or Keyhole saw: - used to cut holes on wooden surface
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SPLICING
1. Pig tail splice
a. Single wire pig tail
Application :-It is used for permanent as well as temporary connections in
outlet, switch boxes, and other confined space where there is no
pull on the wire.
Materials and Tools:-The pieces of single copper and aluminum wire, each 12 cm long,
diagonal cutting pliers, pocket knife, wire stripper, flat nose pliers,
soldering iron, ruler, soldering paste, insulating tape general
purpose pliers, solder, nipper, flux, …etc.
Procedure:
1. Measure about 2.5 cm from the ends of the wires to be applied.
2. Remove the insulation of the measure portions as shown above in fig (a)
3. Clean the wire and prepare two of them as in fig (b)
4. Cross the pieces of wire as shown in fig (c)
5. By means of pliers, twist the wires together as shown in fig (d)
6. Cut or Bend of the projecting wires beyond the last twist (e)
7. Solder the joint to strengthen the connection.
8. Insulate the splice by means of tape or insulating cup
Safety: Do not touch surface being soldered.
Do not heat the soldering iron red hot
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b. Bunch splice (pig tail)
Application: used for joining more than two wires at ceiling-fixture outlets, switch boxes,
etc where a number of wires from different parts are brought to one box
and splicing together.
Materials and Tools:-Four pieces of single copper and aluminum wire, each 12 cm long,
diagonal cutting pliers, pocket knife, wire stripper, flat nose pliers,
soldering iron, ruler, soldering paste, insulating tape general
purpose pliers, solder, nipper, flux, …etc.
Procedures:
1. Measure about 2.5 cm from the ends of the wires to be spliced.
2. Skin the wires and prepare them as shown in fig (a)
3. Clean the wire and prepare them in parallel (insulation to insulation
4. By means of pliers, twist the wires together as shown in fig (b)
5. Cut of the projecting wires beyond the last twist .
6. Solder the splice then cover by means of insulating tape.
Additional task: Make the bunch splice in accordance with the above procedure using
five wires.
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c. Flexible wire to solid wire splice (pig tail)
Application : This splice is used for joining the solid wires used in permanent wiring
together with the flexible conductors used in wiring fixtures and
appliances (two wires of different cross section).
Materials and Tools:- Wires (solid and flexible) sal-ammonic, pocket knife, wire stripper,
flat nose pliers, soldering iron, ruler, soldering paste, insulating
tape
general purpose pliers, solder, nipper, flux, file, brush, insulation
remover, … etc.
Procedures:
1) Measure and skin the portions of the wires as shown in fig (a).
2) Clean the bare wires thoroughly
3) Cross the wires as shown in fig (b)
4) By means of pliers, wrap the flexible wire around the solid conductor for a
distance of about 2cm
5) Bend the solid conductor parallel to the splice.
6) Cut the extra flexible wire.
7) Solder the joint to strengthen the connection.
8) Insulate the splice by means of tape .
Note: The bend at the end strengthen the joint and provides an excellent solder led.
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2. Western union splice
Materials and Tools:-Pieces of wires, soldering lead, pocket knife, wire stripper,
flat nose pliers, soldering iron, ruler, soldering paste, insulating
tape
general purpose pliers, solder, nipper, flux, file, brush, insulation
remover, … etc.
Procedures:
1. Skin the to wire to be joined (see fig a)
2. Clean both wires thoroughly.
3. Cross the two bare wire ends as in fig (b).
4. Make a neck turn as in fig (c).
5. Using pliers, make a number of shoulder or twists as shown in fig (d).
6. Cut off the excess wire.
7. Tighten the shoulders by means of pliers.
8. Repeat operations 5, 6 and 7 with the remaining free wire winding the shoulders
in the opposite direction.
9. Solder and then insulate the splices by an insulating tape.
Note: Sometimes the western union splice with greater number of neck turns, greater
number of shoulders and no neck turns may be used.
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3. Tap (branch) splicing:
A. Single branch splice
Application: Used for making a connection any where along the length of an other
wire. It is really one half of a western union splice.
Materials and Tools:-Pieces of wires, soldering lead, pocket knife, wire stripper,
flat nose pliers, soldering iron, ruler, soldering paste, insulating
tape
general purpose pliers, solder, nipper, flux, file, brush, insulation
remover, … etc.
Procedures:
1. Prepare two pieces of copper single wire (12 cm long for main wire, 14 cm long
for making tap) as shown in fig (a)&(b) above.
2. Skin the main wire about 2 cm at the center position as in fig (a) & (b).
3. Skin the connecting wire for about 7 cm at either ends of the wire as in fig (b).
4. Place the branch wire across the main wire (insulation to insulation should be at
an angle of 90 degree )as in fig ( c).
5. Make a neck turn and five to eight shoulders as shown in fig (d) ( use pliers to
bring the twists close together and tighten them up as shown in fig (d).
6. Cut off the excess wire.
7. Solder and then wrap the splice with insulating tape.
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A. Double branch splice.
Application: used in where two branch wires, leading in opposite directions,
connected to a main wire at one point.
Materials and Tools:-Pieces of wires, soldering lead, pocket knife, wire stripper,
flat nose pliers, soldering iron, ruler, soldering paste, insulating tape
general purpose pliers, solder, nipper, flux, file, brush, insulation
remover, … etc.
Procedures:
1) Prepare three pieces of copper single wire (12 cm long for main wire, 14 cm long
for making taps) as shown in fig (a), (b) &(c) above.
2) Skin the main wire about 4 cm at the center position as in fig (a).
3) Skin the connecting wires for about 7 cm at either ends of the wires as in fig
(b)&(c).
4) Place the branch wire across the main wire (insulation to insulation should be at
an angle of 90 degree )as in fig ( d).
5) Make five to eight shoulders on the main conductor as shown in fig (d) above.
(Making shoulders should be in the opposite direction.)
6) Cut off the excess wire.
7) Solder and then wrap the splice with insulating tape.
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4. Britannian splice.
Materials and tools: Two pieces of solid wire each 11 cm. long; a piece of wrapping
wire –diameter 1, 1.5mm. length about 1m.,soldering materials,
diagonal cutting pliers, normal pliers, flat nose pliers, soldering
iron, file, brush, …etc.
Procedures:
1. Clean about 7 cm. of strand line wires thoroughly as fig (a).
2. Bend one of the ends of every solid wire for a distance of about 8 mm. and
prepare the two wires as shown in fig (a).
3. Clean the wrapping wire thoroughly.
4. Extend the wrapping wire along the position of contact of the two solid wires
and begin wrapping towards the right as shown in fig (b).
5. Make 3 to 10 turns of the banding wire around wire 2 at the right band end of
the splice (see fig c).
6. Twist the two free ends of the joining wire make 3 to 6 twists.
7. Cut the excess wire and press down the ends (see fig c).
8. solder the splice.
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5. Dove-tail splice:
Application: Used for large non-flexible stranded conductors. Such splice is mostly
applied in over head transmission lines.
Materials and tools: Two large non-flexible stranded conductors, soldering material, .
diagonal cutting pliers, normal pliers, flat nose pliers, soldering
iron, file, brush, …etc.
Procedures:
1. Measure and skin the two stranded conductors about 8 cm from 12cm long of the
wire.
2. By means of binding wire tie the strands of each wires together as shown as in fig
(a)
3. Straighten the strands beyond the binding wires and prepare them as in fig (b).
4. Cut off the middle strand of the two wires just at the place marked with binding
wires (refer the above fig b).
5. Over lap the strands of one wire between the other as in fig (c ).
6. Wrap the strands of one wire (about the body of the other as shown in fig d).
7. Cut excess ends of the strands and solder the joint.
8. Cover the splice with insulation tape.
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** TAPPING SPLICES **
Application: An insulation tape is used to cover the splices with (purpose) protective
materials, material equivalent in electrical strength to that on the original
conductor.
Materials: Different types of splice (e.g. pig- tail and western union ), insulation tape.
Tools and Equipment: knife or diagonal cutting pliers, insulation tape, …etc.
*Note: The procedure for tapping pig-tail and other type is similar to that of western
union. Two layer of plastic tape are sufficient instead of rubber and friction tape.
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TERMINATION
The process of connecting lugs or connectors to the wires as well as the preparation of the
wire ends so as to enable them to be connected to the terminals of electrical equipment is
called TERMINATION.
Single strand copper wires in sizes up to 10sq.mm and multi-core wires in sizes up to
2.5sq.mm may be connected to the terminals of various instruments and apparatus with
out lugs; in this case the ends of multi-strand conductors should be welded or tinned
while single strand aluminum wires, before being connected to the terminal, should be
scrapped bright and coated with Vaseline to protect them from oxidizing. Heavy cage
copper wires and all multi-core aluminum wires should be fitted with special lug.
Materials and Tools: a pieces of wires, a rotary switch, nipper, wire-stripper, knife,
round nose pliers.
Procedures:-
1. Skin a minimum of 16mm of the wire.
2. Clean the bare wire end thoroughly and prepare it as in fig (b).
3. By means of flat nose pliers bend the bare end of the wire. (see in fig c).
4. Using a round nose pliers bend bake the wire to form a ring. (See in fig d).
5. Check the diameter of the ring by means of the screw.
6. Shape out the ring.
7. Put the ring under the contact, fasten it by the screw and check the quality of
the contact. e.g. connect the ring to the terminals of a rotary switch.
Note: 1) The wire should be looped in the same direction as the screwing (fastening) of
the screw.
2) Sometimes single core wire terminated by stub and ring ending are tinned to
prevent oxidation of the copper surfaces.
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C. Lug end termination
Advantage: Pressing and soldering lugs on to the ends of the wire creates a reliable
contact of the wires and cables with the terminals of the electrical
equipment.
Sketch
Materials and Tools: Pieces of multi-stranded wire, terminal lug, solder, flux, insulation
tape, nipper, knife, soldering iron or blow torch, indenter, a welding unit.
Pr5ocedures:-
1) Select the terminal lug that fits the wire to be terminated.
2) Measure the length for the termination in accordance with the length of the
lug (see fig a) having a 3mm clearance.
3) Remove the insulation of the this measured end of the wire .
4) Clean the strands of the wire.
5) Restore the twisting of the strands of the wire.
6) Clean the bare wire end thoroughly.
7) Insert the wire in to the open end of the lug (see fig a & c).
8) Connect the lug to the wire by one of the following methods:
A . I. Fasten the lug onto the core temporarily by wrapping cotton tape
around the lug ended wire.
II. Solder the lug to the end of the conductor (see fig b).
III. Unwrap the cotton tape.
IV. Clean the excess solder on the connection.
B. Press the lug with hand pressing tongs or crimpers (see fig d).
C. Weld the lug on to the heavy gauge conductor.
9) Cover the connection with the insulation tape as in fig (b).
10) Put it under the contact to which it is to be connected and check the quality of
the connection.
Note:-1) Single strand wires with cross-section greater than 10sq.mm are also terminated
by means of lugs, the procedure to be followed being analogous to the one
written above.
2) Single as well as multi-stranded aluminum wires may also be terminated in the
same manner as copper wires, but the special features of aluminum wire
connections have to be taken into consideration.
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4. Electrical Symbols and Wiring Diagrams
Lamp lamp
J.B.
220V
50Hz 220V
50HGz
S.w. S.w.
1.2. Two lamps connected in series controlled by a single pole, single throw switch
Sw sw
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1.3. Two lamps connected in parallel controlled by single pole, single throw switch.
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1.4 Bed room lighting
Lamp 1 Lamp 2
S 220V
50Hz
S1 S2 S3
Conclusive Questions: 1. Draw single line representation & schematic diagram for 1.4
2. Draw the wiring diagram of living room, the room has two
lamps controlled from three entrances of the room.
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1.5. Two lamps controlled from three different places by means of two, two-switches and
by an intermediate switch.
Lamp1 Lamp 2
P
S=220V/50Hz
S1 S2 S3
Conclusive Question:
Discus the applications of this circuit.
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1.6.1. Staircase Lighting L
S1 S2
L1 L2 L3
S1 S2 S3 S4
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1.7. Staircase Lighting Sequentially operation one after an other, that means if the first lamp OFF, at
the same time the next lamp will turn ON. This system used for long distant staircase
lighting.
L1 L2 L3 L4 L5
S1 S2 S3 S4 S5
Conclusive Questions: Draw the Schematic diagrams of the above three circuits.
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2. Master Switch Circuits
2.1. Master “ON” Circuits
L1 L2 L3 L4
P
220/50Hz
S1(1-way ) S2 (2-way) S3 S4 S5
Complete :-Wiring diagram for master “ON” circuit with three two-way switches and one
Single –way switch.
Requirement: To switch on the lamps and to prevent any body switching them OFF with
individual switches.
L1 L2
P
220V/50Hz
Requirement: When the master switch is switched “ON” the lamps remain lighted
independent of the position of all switches.
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3. Variable Master Control
L1 L2 L3 L4
P M
M1 S1 S2 S3 S4
The variable master control are those master switches which work both as “master on”
and “master off”. The five lamps are controlled independently by their switches while
single-way switch M& M1 as a variable master controls.
When M is in off position no light will light, thus working as “master off” control. If M
& M1 switched “ON” then all lamps can be controlled independently.
Master OFF: To put off the lamps irrespective of the position of the individual switches
and to prevent any body switching on lamps.
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LAB. JOB 5
Announciator Circuit
A bell circuit is often arranged so that the bell can operated from any one of two or more
positions. In these circumstances it is necessary install an indicator to show which push
button has been pressed. The bell gives an audible signal and the indicator flag a visual
signal at some central point. Indicating that a service is required, or an emergency has
arisen at a particular push position.
Assume this type of circuit is used in hospitals. Individual pushes are available at each
bed and the bell indicator board is situated in the ward supervisor’s office. Large fire
alarm system also uses indicator boards to indicate the Zeon or part of the building where
the call was initiated.
Complete the wiring diagram shown below and construct the installation on the wiring
board.
L1 L7
1mH L2 L3 L4 L5 L6
1mH 1mH 1mH 1mH 1mH
1mH
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