Introduction:
Seam and stitch are related to each other. Because stitch cannot be made
without seam and vice versa. Seam is the join between two or more plies of
pieces of material. Seams are usually formed by sewing. Sewing is done by
joining one or more threads or loops of threads with intralooping, interlooping
or interlacing. Stitch is the unit of this sewing.
Every unit of a seam line formed by interlooping, intralooping or interlacing of
one or more threads is called stitch.
Intralooping
When one loop of a thread is passed through another loop of same thread it is
called intralooping.
Fig: Intralooping
Fig: Formation of intralooping
Interlooping
When one loop of a thread passes through another loop of another thread it is
called interlooping.
Fig: Interlooping
Fig: Formation of interlooping
Interlacing
When one loop of a thread passes over another loop of another thread it is
called interlacing.
Fig: Interlacing
Fig: Formation of interlacing
Objectives:
1. To identify different types of stitches.
2. To observe the formation and structure of stitches.
3. To know about the uses of various types of stitches.
Theory:
About 70 types of stitches are found using and from these types 18 to 20 types
of stitches are mostly used in garments industries. All types of stitches are
classified into 6 classes. They are
1. Stitch class-100 : Chain stitch
2. Stitch class-200 : Hand stitch
3. Stitch class-300 : Lock stitch
4. Stitch class-400 : Multi thread chain stitch
5. Stitch class-500 : Over edge/Edge neatening chain stitch
6. Stitch class-600 : Covering chain stitch
Now they are described below:
1. Stitch class-100: Chain stitch:
Chain stitches are produced by one or more needle threads and are
characterized by intralooping. One needle thread is passed through the fabric,
form needle loop and is secured by the next loop formed by the same thread.
Thus stitches are produced. This type of stitches is much unsecured. In case of
the break of any stitch, it unravels very easily. The most common type of stitch
is stitch calss-100 is stitch type-101. As it is very unsecured it is used for
biasting operations which are temporary stitching operation for the
positioning of collar, cuff and flaps etc.
Sketch:
Fig: Stitch class-100 : Chain stitch (101)
2. Stitch class-200: Hand stitch:
This type is originated from hand stitches. It is produced from a single thread.
This thread is passed through the fabric from one side to another and the
stitch is secured by the single line of thread passing in and out of the garment.
Hand stitching is a time consuming and costly operation which needs high
skill for good appearance. Stitch type- 209 is used at the edges of jackets. For
producing this stitch a special type of needle having at the middle and sewing
machine is used. Normally this type of stitch is used in costly dresses.
Sketch:
Fig: Stitch
class-200: Hand stitch (209)
3. Stitch class-300: Lock stitch:
This type of stitches is produced with two or more groups of threads. Here the
two threads are joined by interlacing. Loops of one group are passed through
the material and are secured by the thread of second group. One group is
referred as needle thread and other as bobbin thread. This stitch has enough
strength and same appearance on both sides. Lock stitches are also very
secured and don’t unravels in case of yarn breakage. The disadvantage is
bobbin contains less thread and so runs out during sewing. As a result the
bobbin is again threaded after sometimes which time consuming and
disgusting. Lock stitch is extensively used for joining fabrics collar, cuff,
pocket, facing etc. Top stitching is used for button holing, attaching, blind
stitching etc.
Sketch:
Fig: Stitch class-300 –
Lock stitch (301)
4. Stitch class-400: Multi thread chain stitch:
This class is formed with two or more groups of threads. Loops of one group of
thread are passed through the material and are secured by interlacing and
interloping with loops of another group. Here on group is called needle thread
and another group looper thread. The most common is stitch type-401 which
is produced by one needle thread and one looper thread. It has an appearance
of lock stitch on the top but has a double chain effect formed by a looper
thread on the underside. Sometimes stitches in this class are called ‘double
lock stitch’ because the needle thread is interconnected with two loops of the
under thread. Here the possibility of seam pucker is very less. Again all
threads are supplied from cone packages so there is no possibility of running
out thread. This type of stitches is used foe sewing lace, braid and elastic.
Stitch type-401 is used in jeans and trouser.
Sketch:
Fi
g: Stitch class-400: Multi thread chain stitch (401)
5. Stitch class-500: Over edge/Edge neatening chain stitch:
The stitch type in this class is formed with one or more groups of threads.
Here at least one group of thread passes around the edge of material. So no
thread from the fabric can come out. The most frequently used stitch of this
type have one or two needle threads and one or two looper threads and thus
forms a narrow band of stitching along the edge of the fabric. A trimming knife
of the machine ensures a neat edge prior to sewing. Stitch type-504 is formed
of a needle thread and two looper threads. This class of stitch is used for edge
neatening and for producing seam in knitted fabric. The extensibility of this
stitch is very good. The width of this stitch is 3-5 mm. This stitch type can be
used to make a decorative neated edge.
Sketch:
Fig: Stitch
class-500: Over edge/Edge neatening chain stitch (504)
6. Stitch class-600: Covering chain stitch:
This type of stitches is generally produced with 3 groups of threads. Threads of
two groups can be seen from either side. The first group of thread is called
needle thread, second is called top cover thread and the third is called bottom
cover thread. The stitches of this class are very complex and up to 9 threads
can be used in producing these stitches. For producing stitch type-606, 4
needle threads and 5 other threads are required and it is called flat lock. Flat
lock stitches are used in knitted fabrics especially in under wears. It is also
used in decorating leisure wears. Stitch type-602 is used for attaching laces,
braids and elastics in garments. Moreover it is used in decorative stitches and
top stitching.
Sketch:
Fig: Stitch
class-600: Covering chain stitch (605)
By Prof. Sunita Nasta
