7. Loosen the two 1/4-in.
hex-head screws, then
Evaporator
lift and remove the icemaker from the mounting
The following components must be removed in the bracket.
appropriate order to access the evaporator:
1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Remove the freezer baskets. (See Freezer Basket
Removal.)
3. Remove the upper and lower freezer drawer
fronts. (See Freezer Drawers.)
Note
• For added accessibility to freezer components,
it may be necessary to remove the freezer
drawers mullion assembly. (See Freezer Drawers Note: The ice bucket cover is held in place with 2
Mullion Assembly.) Phillips-head screws and a grommet attached to the
evaporator cover.
• The icemaker cover is held in place with 2
Phillips-head screws and 2 grommets attached 8. Remove the 2 Phillips-head screws from the ice
to the evaporator cover. bucket cover.
4. Remove the 2 Phillips-head screws from the 9. Slide the ice bucket cover to the right and lower
icemaker cover. it.
5. Slide the icemaker cover to the right and lower it
away from the icemaker.
Note: The icemaker mounting bracket is held in
place with two 1/4-in. hex-head screws and a
grommet attached to the left side of the freezer.
10. Remove the two 1/4-in. hex-head screws, then
6. Using a small flat blade screwdriver, expand the slide the bracket towards the front of the freezer.
2 clips and disconnect the ice level switch wire
harness from the icemaker harness.
(Continued next page)
– 41 –
11. Using a small flat blade screwdriver, expand the 15. Pull the front of the rail assembly towards the
2 clips and disconnect the ice level switch wire center of the freezer and unhook the assembly
harness from the cabinet receptacle. from the side of the freezer.
16. Remove the Phillips-head screw and the mullion
heater harness cover.
12. Remove the icemaker cover and ice bucket
cover from the freezer.
Note: The ice level switch is held to the icemaker
cover with 2 Phillips-head screws, and the switch
wire harness is attached to the ice bucket cover with 17. Extend both lower drawer rail assemblies to the
2 plastic ties. open position.
18. Remove the five 1/4-in. Hex-head screws that
attach each lower rail assembly to the freezer
wall.
Ice Level Switch
Plastic Ties
19. Remove the light shield. (See Refrigerator Lights.)
Note: Each upper drawer side rail assembly is held
in place by four 1/4-in. hex-head screws and a hook 20. Remove the Philips-head screw and the fan
that locks into an opening in the side of the freezer. cover from the evaporator cover.
13. Extend both upper drawer rail assemblies to the
open position.
14. Remove the four 1/4-in. hex-head screws from
each upper rail assembly.
Light Shield
Fan Cover
(Continued next page)
– 42 –
Note: The evaporator cover is attached to the
Replacing Evaporator Using the Brazing
evaporator compartment with two 1/4-in. hex-head
screws, 3 bottom tabs, and 8 snap tabs located on Method
the back of the cover. Parts Needed:
21. Remove the two 1/4-in. hex-head screws that • Freezer Evaporator
attach the evaporator cover to the fan bracket. • Drier Assembly
• Access Tube (part # WJ56X61)
• Heat Shield Kit (part # WX5X8926)
Caution: A heat shield kit is required for this
procedure to prevent damage to the plastic interior
(liner) of the freezer compartment.
Note: If it is determined that the epoxy joints (the
transition joint between the aluminum and copper
jumper) on the freezer evaporator assembly are
defective, then LOKRING connectors can be used to
repair the joints. Refer to Service Guide #31-9067 for
complete instructions on using the LOKRING method
of installing an evaporator.
Bottom Tab Bottom Tab Bottom Tab
1. Unplug the refrigerator.
2. Remove the rear access cover and evacuate the
22. Grasp and pull the right side of the fan opening sealed system.
towards the front of the freezer to release the
right side snap tabs. 3. Remove components necessary to expose the
evaporator. (See Evaporator.)
4. Note the location of the thermistor and over-
temperature thermostat on top of the old
evaporator and remove.
5. Remove heater from bottom of evaporator.
Bundle remaining wires and tape high on the
back wall of freezer.
6. Apply a liberal amount of thermal paste to
suction line where it enters the rear wall of
freezer.
7. Insert the brazing shield behind the joints of the
evaporator inlet and outlet to protect the liner.
23. Pull out the left side of the cover and carefully 8. Use torch to heat the joints of the evaporator
remove it from the evaporator compartment. inlet and outlet, separate the joints and clean
the suction line and the capillary surface.
9. Loosen the 2 Phillips-head screws that hold the
evaporator in place. Note locations of the heat
transfer wires at the sides of old evaporator.
These are needed to transfer heat to the turns of
the evaporator during the defrost cycle. Remove
the transfer wires and save for new evaporator
installation. Remove the old evaporator.
10. Install the new evaporator and tighten the 2
Phillips-head screws.
(Continued next page)
– 43 –
11. Connect the evaporator inlet and outlet to the
Defrost Heater
suction line and capillary tubes.
12. Check that the thermal paste is still on the The defrost heater is a single-tube, glass-enclosed
suction line where it enters the rear wall of the radiant heater. It is held in place by 2 tabs on the
freezer. If not, apply paste. In addition, apply evaporator (1 on each side) and by a ceramic
thermal paste around epoxy joints on the new and wire support. The defrost heater has an
evaporator to prevent the heat from damaging approximate resistance value of 31.5 Ω.
joint integrity. To remove the defrost heater:
13. Move the brazing shield behind the capillary and
1. Access the freezer evaporator. (See Evaporator.)
suction line joints. Protect the freezer floor from
molten solder during brazing. Note:
14. Angle torch so that flame is directed away from
• During defrost, the drain probe assists in
rear wall when brazing. Braze suction line and
preventing the drain from icing closed. During
capillary to new evaporator.
assembly, the probe must be installed on the
15. Remove the brazing shield. Clean and inspect all evaporator and inserted in the drain to prevent
joints. drain freeze-up.
16. Remove the old drier by cutting the halo loop • A ceramic and wire support prevents the heater
as close as possible to the drier. Install the from sagging and touching the metal drain
new drier assembly making sure that there is trough if the glass is broken.
sufficient space between the tubing.
2. Remove the ceramic and wire support and the
17. Install the access tube. Clean and inspect joints. drain probe from the evaporator.
18. Replace the heater supplied with the evaporator.
Reinstall the over-temperature thermostat,
thermistor, and heat transfer wires at the sides
of new evaporator. Dress wiring.
19. Evacuate and charge the system. Use original
factory charge quantity of R-134a. (See
Evacuation and Charging Procedure.) Ceramic and Wire
Support
20. Replace all component parts in the freezer.
21. Reinstall the rear access cover. Drain Probe
Replacing Evaporator Using the LOKRING
Method
3. Bend the aluminum tabs back (located at each
Parts Needed:
end of the defrost heater) and lower the heater
• Freezer Evaporator
out of the evaporator.
• Drier Assembly
• Access Tube (part # WJ56X61).) 4. Disconnect 2 lead wires and remove the heater.
• LOKRING Connectors (part # WR97X10044)
Note: If it is determined that the epoxy joints (the
transition joint between the aluminum and copper
jumper) on the freezer evaporator assembly are
defective, then LOKRING connectors can be used to
repair the joints. Refer to Service Guide #31-9067 for
complete instructions on using the LOKRING method
of installing an evaporator.
– 44 –
Return Duct Heaters Test
Icemaker Fill Tube Heater
If open duct heaters are suspected, perform the
The fill tube heater is energized during the
following:
defrost cycle when the defrost thermostat is
closed. Remove the evaporator cover to access 1. With the over-temperature thermostat closed,
the icemaker fill tube heater. (See Evaporator.) test for approximately 27 Ω (the equivalent
Disconnect the fill tube heater wire harness. The resistance of this parallel circuit) between J9
resistance of the fill tube heater is approximately and J7-9 .
2644 Ω.
2. For a resistance reading other than
approximately 27 Ω, remove the evaporator
Return Duct Heaters cover (See Evaporator.), disconnect the fill tube
heater, and one lead from the defrost heater.
A return duct heater has been added to each of
Insert a volt ohm meter into the fill tube heater
the 2 fresh food compartment return air ducts. The
receptacle. A reading of approximately 220 Ω
heaters prevent water from freezing and blocking
indicates both heaters are good.
the air flow in the ducts. Restricted ducts can cause
warm fresh food temperatures. (See Airflow.) Note: The return duct heaters are integral to the
foamed in place internal ductwork of the refrigerator
and are not replaceable.
Return Duct
Outlets
The heaters operate with 120 VAC and each heater
has an approximate resistance value of 440 Ω.
The heaters are in a parallel circuit consisting of
2 duct heaters, icemaker fill tube heater, and the
defrost heater. The line voltage wires of the duct
heaters and the fill tube heater are connected to
the blue wire of the defrost heater. The neutral wires
of the heaters go through the over-temperature
thermostat. The 2 duct heaters and the fill tube
heater are energized (along with the defrost heater)
during the defrost cycle when the over-temperature
thermostat is closed.
– 45 –
