YOUR GUIDE TO
ADVANCED GEMSTONE
SETTING TECHNIQUES
Looking to take your stone setting to the next level?
It’s time to start trialling some of the more
advanced gemstone setting techniques.
CLAW The tops of the claws need to
DIFFICULTY LEVEL be flush with the stone when
INTERMEDIATE you’ve completed the setting.
They also need to be bent at
a 45° angle with a needle file.
With the claw setting,
there’s usually a minimum
of 2 claws (or prongs).
Tools you’ll need for a
claw setting include: NEEDLE FILE PUSHER SIDE CUTTERS SAW
TENSION This technique gives the
appearance that the gemstone
DIFFICULTY LEVEL is floating on its own.
ADVANCED
The gemstone is held by two
pieces of metal on each side,
with small grooves for it to sit in.
It’s only the shape of the metal
that is holding the gem in
place, so it needs to be
as accurate as possible.
Tools you’ll need for a
tension setting include: HART BUR HAND TORCH VERNIER GAUGE SNIPE NOSE PLIARS
CHANNEL This is where two rows of metal
(or channels) hold a line of
DIFFICULTY LEVEL gemstones.
INTERMEDIATE
The edges of the channels are
pushed over the top to hold
the gemstones in place.
After all the seats have been
cut, the top rails are filed
so they are bevelled
downward at roughly 15°.
Tools you’ll need for
channel setting include: MANDREL HAMMER HALF ROUND PLIARS
PAVÉ All the small gemstones in this
setting are held together by
DIFFICULTY LEVEL
‘beads’ of metal.
INTERMEDIATE
The pavé technique is often
used for engagement rings
to give the illusion of
a larger gemstone.
When making the seats,
engraving a grid on the
metal will help to space
them out evenly.
Tools you’ll need for
pavé setting include: DIAMOND POLISHING DISCS GRAVERS BURRS
Pick up all the jewellery tools
you need for these gemstone
setting techniques at…
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