Michel Picard Cultural Heritageand Tourist Capital 1995
Michel Picard Cultural Heritageand Tourist Capital 1995
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Michel Picard
URESTI/CNRS
In the early 1970s, when the news spread that the Indonesian government had decided
to launch mass tourism on Bali, tourist experts and lovers of Bali alike anxiously started
asking the question: «Would Balinese culture survive the impact of tourism?». For most of
them, there was little doubt that, sooner or later, the island of Bali would be overwhelmed by
the flood of tourists which were sweeping her shores - inexorably, business would get the
better of culture *.
The first expression of concern came from an American historian, Willard Hanna,
who published an inflammatory article on the impending ravages of tourism on Balinese
culture. He wondered whether the Balinese could profit from tourism without losing their
culture:
«How to exploit the tourist potential of the Island of Bali for the benefit of the
culturally rich but economically poor Balinese, without at the same time inducing
vulgarity or commercialization... In other words, the intent is to maximize the benefits
(profits) and minimize the detriments ("social and cultural pollution") and thus to
preserve Balinese values by acquisition of desperately needed foreign valuta» (1).
In his opinion, the problem was not likely to be resolved, and if tourism in Bali were to prove
to be a commercial success, it would become a cultural tragedy, as authentic traditions were
being packaged to conform to tourist expectations, legendary Balinese artistry was being
harnessed to create souvenir trinkets, and age-old religious ceremonies were being turned into
hotel floor shows - in short, Balinese culture was becoming a tourist commodity.
Consequently, he foresaw the not so distant days when the Balinese would start mistaking the
commercial by-products they sell to tourists for the genuine manifestation of their artistic
traditions.
While Willard Hanna was giving vent to his concern that undiscerning tourists would
spoil Balinese culture, the American anthropologist Philip McKean was challenging the
charge of corruption commonly laid against tourism by foreign observers. According to him,
the joint effect of the admiration evinced by tourists for Balinese culture and of the money
they brought to the island was to renew the Balinese's interest for their cultural heritage while
stimulating their artistic creativity. So much so that by patronizing Balinese culture, tourism
would contribute to its preservation and even to its revival, to the extent that it was turning it
into a source of both pride and profit for the Balinese:
«The entertainment, education, and care of international visitors would then pay the
Balinese to do what they have learned to do so well for their own satisfaction -
perform their arts and religion, their crafts and ceremonials» (2).
Two decades later, pros and cons are still being deliberated as to whether tourism has a
beneficial or a detrimental effect on Balinese culture. Thus, when one glances through the
academic literature on the so-called "sociocultural impact of tourism", one finds authors for
whom tourism has helped preserve the cultural heritage of Bali, while others accuse tourism
of destroying Balinese culture and turning it into a commercial commodity (3).
In this article, my intention is not so much to contest the conclusions of such studies
as to challenge the very question they address as being misleading. In my opinion, the
question is not to ask whether or not Balinese culture has been able to withstand the impact of
tourism, but rather to inquire what talk of "the impact of tourism on Balinese culture" entails:
what conception of culture, of tourism and of the way tourism affects culture is implied by
such a question?
As a matter of fact, the question of the "sociocultural impact of tourism" is an attempt
to solve a problem facing the tourist industry, that of the so-called "sustainable development
of tourism" - which is to develop a kind of tourism which does not destroy the resources it
exploits, be they "natural" or "cultural". Here is how a well-known tourist expert formulates
the problem:
«Tourism can destroy tourism. Tourism as a user of resources, can be a resource
destroyer, and through destroying the resources, which give rise to it, make the
resource-based tourism short-lived. Impacts, benefits and costs can and should
therefore be evaluated in advance of tourism development» (4).
The solution to this problem is generally sought in a cost-benefit analysis, involving some
sort of trade-off between cultural and economic values. This way of tackling the problem is
not just a matter of convenience, it is structurally determined by a recurrent set of oppositions
- on the one hand, between that which relates to culture and that which concerns economics,
on the other hand, between that which is located within the host society and that which comes
from without. As such, tourism is signified by economics whereas society is signified by
culture: tourism brings money to a society in exchange for exploiting its culture (5).
This approach - while congruent with the prospects and vested interests of the tourist
industry - does not clarify the process of touristification of a society. Indeed, the mere fact of
talking about the "impact" of tourism entails something of a ballistic vision, which amounts to
perceiving the host society as a target hit by a missile, like an inert object, passively subjected
to exogenous factors of change, with the subsequent problem of assessing the ensuing fallout
(6). On the contrary, I contend that, far from being an external force striking a native society
from without, touristification proceeds from within. Or, to be more precise, it blurs the
boundaries between the inside and the outside, between what is "ours" and what is "theirs",
between that which belongs to "culture" and that which pertains to "tourism".
It should thus be clear that what I call the touristification of a society amounts to much
more than just developing an area and equipping it with the facilities necessary to accomodate
tourists. In the process of touristification, it is not only the landscape and the local colour, but
also the cultural traditions of a society and the distinctive markers by which its members
acknowledge their being part of it, which are being severed from their context, serialized and
combined with a view to composing a tourist product. As soon as a society offers itself for
sale on a market, as soon as it attempts to enhance its appeal to the eyes of foreign visitors, it
is the very consciousness that society has of itself which is being affected. Thus the native
populations are not passive objects of the tourist gaze, but active subjects who construct
representations of their culture to attract tourists. Therefore, behind the commonly stressed
risks entailed by the commercialization of culture, one should pay attention to what is at stake
with the new meaning a culture acquires for its bearers by being promoted as a tourist
attraction. In other words, to the extent that it alters the view that a society takes of itself,
tourism reveals the way the native population relates to its memories, to its traditions, to its
values - in short, to its identity.
As to Balinese culture, my point is that it was neither "destroyed" nor "revived" - nor
even simply "preserved" - by tourism. This is because tourism cannot be conceived of outside
culture at all: it is inevitably bound up in an ongoing process of cultural invention. In other
words, I contend that tourism should be viewed as an integral part of Balinese culture.
Consequently, instead of asking whether or not Balinese culture has been able to
withstand the impact of tourism, I shall investigate here why it is that "Balinese culture"
inspires such concern to Westerners, Indonesians and Balinese alike. This, I shall attempt
mostly by submitting to a discourse analysis what various sources - from Bali as well as from
abroad - say about "Balinese culture" when they speak of tourism. And rather than focus on
the commercialization of culture, as in impact studies, I shall pay attention to the dialogic
process through which culture has become Bali's defining feature.
Cultural Tourism
To tell the truth, the Balinese authorities did not actually have any say in the decision
of the central government to trade in their island's charms in order to refill the state coffers,
nor had they been consulted about the Master Plan. Behind a facade of official assent, the
plan advocated by French consultants, finalized by World Bank experts, and imposed by
Jakarta technocrats, gave rise to undisguised criticism in Bali. For its Balinese detractors, the
Master Plan might be a plan for the development of tourism, but it clearly was not a plan for
the development of Bali. Witness the fact that it was based on a market study of tourist
arrivals in Bali and not on an assessment of the development needs of the island.
Faced with a fait accompli, the Balinese authorities attempted to appropriate tourism
in order to use its benefits as a tool for regional development, while taking advantage of the
fame it was bringing to their island to further their position within the Indonesian nation. In
response to the Master Plan, they proclaimed their own conception of the kind of tourism they
deemed the most suitable to their island - namely what they termed "Cultural Tourism"
(Pariwisata Budaya) (14). This conception was formulated in 1971, a few months after the
publication of the Master Plan, when the Governor convened a "Seminar on Cultural Tourism
in Bali", under the joint aegis of the provincial agencies for tourism, religion, culture and
education (15).
The proceedings of the seminar reveal that the Balinese perceived tourism as being at
once fraught with danger and filled with the promises of forthcoming prosperity. On the one
hand, the artistic and religious traditions which had made the name of Bali famous the world
over provided its main attraction as a tourist destination, thus turning Balinese culture into the
most valuable "resource" for the island's economic development. But on the other hand, the
invasion of Bali by foreign visitors originating from different horizons was seen as a threat of
"cultural pollution". Accordingly, the Balinese regarded tourism as a "challenge" to be taken
up with caution: «How to develop tourism without debasing Balinese culture?». Such was the
task assigned to Cultural Tourism - to take advantage of Balinese culture to attract tourists,
while using the economic benefits of tourism to foster Balinese culture.
Thus one sees that, from the 1930s to the 1970s, the problem facing the authorities in
charge of designing a tourist policy for Bali - the Dutch colonial administration, the French
consultants and World Bank experts, the Balinese government - has been defined in terms of
a dilemma: tourism relies on culture, but tourism is a threat to culture. Yet the solution
favoured by the Balinese differs significantly from the one adopted by their foreign
predecessors - instead of trying to keep the tourists at bay, they welcome them.
The rationale underlying this choice is that, in order for tourism to contribute to the
development of Bali, the local population must be in a position to participate in the tourist
trade and reap its benefits, which in turn implies that the tourists must be allowed to spread
and spend their money throughout the island. But this presupposes that the threat hanging
over culture due to tourism should be removed, as the whole idea of Cultural Tourism rests
on the claim that the interests of Balinese culture must concur, in the long run, with those of
the tourist industry.
Moreover, the Balinese appear to be genuinely proud of the fame of their culture
abroad, and are eager to show their cultural traditions at their best to the tourists. In this
respect, they link the success of tourism to the state of their culture - and thus bind their
culture to tourism - to a larger extent than did the Master Plan (16). By so doing, they turn to
their own advantage Jakarta's decision to promote their island as an international tourist
destination in order to acquire hard currency. Indeed, by the same token as tourism makes
their culture the main economic resource of their island, it is their main bargaining asset vis-
à-vis the Indonesian government. Clearly, should the touristic exploitation depreciate
Balinese culture, it would diminish the appeal of Bali as a tourist paradise. Thus, not only
would the tourist industry have ruined Balinese culture, but it would have sown the seeds of
its own destruction as a result. Accordingly - so the Balinese say -, once the central
government has chosen Bali as the main tourist destination in Indonesia, it is in its own
interest, as well as in the interest of the tourist industry, to preserve and promote Balinese
culture.
Now, the problem remains that the provincial government has no legal authority to
conduct its own tourist policy. Under these conditions, it is not really surprising that, instead
of the concrete measures one might have expected, the doctrine of Cultural Tourism led to a
confusing profusion of discourses while arousing impressive fervour in Balinese public
opinion. But one should beware of dismissing all this enthusiasm as mere verbal
gesticulation, as but an implicit admission of helplessness on the part of the Balinese
authorities (17). For, by defining Balinese cultural identity in reference to the "challenge" of
tourism, these discourses strengthen the social links that bind the Balinese people together in
defense of their culture, while their authors can pretend they are actually speaking in the
name of Bali.
Boundary maintenance
Now that their culture has become the prime resource of their island, the problem for
the Balinese is to decide how far they are actually willing to turn their cultural heritage into a
tourist capital, or in other words, to which extent their cultural values may be assessed
according to their economic value. Indeed, failing to know their cultural boundaries, what is
theirs and what is not, the Balinese incur the risk of no longer being able to differentiate
between their own values and those brought in by the foreign visitors. Such a result would
turn Balinese culture into what the Balinese authorities themselves call a "tourist culture"
(kebudayaan pariwisata) - that is, a state characterized by an axiological confusion between
what belongs to culture and what pertains to tourism.
This is in fact the crux of the matter: is there a clear demarcation line for the Balinese
between what they do for themselves and what they do for their visitors, between that which
belongs to culture and that which pertains to tourism? As we recall, for Willard Hanna,
Balinese culture was becoming a tourist commodity to the extent that the Balinese were
mistaking the commercial attractions they present to the tourists for their genuine cultural
traditions. And it was on this point precisely that Philip McKean opposed Hanna's
conclusions.
He maintained that, far from destroying Balinese culture, tourism was in fact
revitalizing it, a conviction based on one of the most deeply rooted assumptions about
Balinese culture - its dynamic resilience. Indeed, the Balinese have long been celebrated for
knowing their cultural boundaries, and they are praised for their ability to borrow whatever
foreign influence suits them while nevertheless maintaining their identity over the centuries.
Accordingly, McKean claimed that the Balinese are coping with the tourist invasion of their
island as well as they have coped with others in the past - that is, they are taking advantage of
the appeal of their cultural traditions to foreign visitors without sacrificing their own values
on the altar of monetary profit. And he stated that tourism has reinforced among the Balinese
a sense of boundary maintenance between what they do for themselves and what they do for
their visitors (23).
This conclusion has been elaborated further by Raymond Noronha, the World Bank's
"cultural adviser" to the Bali Tourism Development Board. «Why is it that tourism has not
destroyed Balinese culture?» asked Noronha. In his opinion, it is because the Balinese have
learnt to distinguish their cultural performances according to the audience for whom they are
intended, with the consequence that the meaning of a Balinese cultural performance is not
affected by its being performed for a tourist audience (24).
Following the lead of McKean and Noronha, the Swiss sociologist Jean-Luc Maurer
devised four criteria to assess the sociocultural impact of tourism on a host society, among
which is what he called its "degree of cultural functionality", that is the ability to differentiate
between the sacred and the profane, between what can eventually be commercialized and
what must absolutely not be affected by commercial relations. And when it came to applying
this criterion to Balinese society, he discerned the emergence of two distinct and juxtaposed
spheres of cultural production, one reserved for internal consumption, the other producing for
external consumption. From which he concluded:
«the Balinese know perfectly well where to draw a clear line between the sacred and
the profane; between what can be sold and what must be protected at all costs» (25).
Interestingly enough, a decade later, in a reassessment of the sociocultural impact of tourism
on Bali published in 1988, Maurer observes that according to the criteria of internal cohesion,
cultural creativity and social solidarity, Balinese society is now threatened by social
disfunction. However, he still contends that,
«if there is one criterion that Balinese society appears to have maintained intact, it is
the distinction between sacred and profane» (26).
Michel Picard
Paris, June 1991
Revised July 1993
NOTES
* This article is based on observations gathered during numerous trips to Bali since 1974, and
more precisely on research undertaken in the island during 1981 and 1982. The field work
was accomplished under the auspices of the Lembaga Ilmu Pengetahuan Indonesia and
benefited from the institutional patronage of Prof. Dr. I Gusti Ngurah Bagus, Head of the
Department of Anthropology at the Universitas Udayana. Besides Professor Bagus, I would
like to thank my colleagues in the Unité de Recherche en Sociologie du Tourisme
International of the Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique - Marie-Francoise Lanfant,
Claude-Marie Bazin, and Jacques de Weerdt - for helping me elaborate the theoretical
framework which structured my field work. I would also like to thank Kunang Helmi and
Vivienne Roberts for their assistance in conveying my French thoughts in English.
(1) Hanna 1972: 1. For similar opinions, see Francillon 1990 and Turnbull 1982.
(2) McKean 1973: 35. For similar opinions, see Lansing 1974: 46 and McTaggart 1980: 463-
64.
(3) For examples of the first opinion, see Cohen 1988: 382; Dogan 1989: 223-24; Macnaught
1982: 373-74; Travis 1984: 24; Turner & Ash 1975: 155-60; etc. For the second one, see
Crandall 1987: 376; van Doorn 1989: 82; Greenwood 1977: 131; O'Grady 1981: 25-34;
Pizam & Milman 1984: 12; etc.
(4) Travis 1982: 257.
(5) On the question of the "sociocultural impact of tourism" and its implications, see Lanfant
1987, as well as Picard 1979 and 1987.
(6) This interpretation is not unlike that of Robert Wood, who writes of «a billiard ball
model, in which a moving object (tourism) acts upon an inert one (culture)» (1980: 565).
(7) This is but an oversimplification of a highly complex and poorly documented history. For
a survey of the Dutch colonial policy on Bali, see Schulte Nordholt 1986.
(8) Covarrubias 1987 is still up to this day the most widely read book on the island of Bali.
On the creation of the image of Bali as a tourist paradise, see Vickers 1989.
(9) On the prevalent view of Bali among American anthropologists in the 1930s, see the
collection of articles assembled in Belo 1970.
(10) The title of a famous tourist brochure published in the 1930s.
(11) The title of the first book written in English on Bali, published in New York in 1930
(Powell 1986).
(12) On the Master Plan, see IBRD/IDA 1974 and SCETO 1971.
(13) This ambivalence is manifest in the survey on economic growth and tourism recently
published by a pair of well-known Balinese economists, who came to the following
conclusion: «And whether the alleged negative socio-cultural effects of tourism are
outweighed by its economic benefits is a question beyond the scope of this chapter»
(Jayasuriya & Nehen 1989: 347). Interestingly enough, in 1971 the SCETO consultants had
asserted that «the actual economic benefits of the operation will go to too small a minority to
compensate for the social nuisances caused by the project» (1971, vol. 1: 17). This
pessimistic statement was dismissed by the World Bank experts who appraised and revised
the Master Plan in 1974: «Assuming that the negative effects can be controlled, it is expected
that the positive effects - in terms of increased employment, incomes and foreign exchange
earnings - will result in an overall impact which, on balance, is desirable» (1974: 25). What is
significant here, is not so much the fact that the World Bank experts disagreed with the
SCETO consultants, but rather the basic agreement that they both share with the Balinese
economists, that the assessment of the impact of tourism on a host society involves a trade-off
between economic benefits and sociocultural costs.
(14) This semantic appropriation of tourism by the Balinese authorities in reaction to what
had been imposed upon them by the Indonesian government was effected by resorting to an
Indonesian frame of reference, first of all, by means of an Indonesian - as opposed to a
Balinese - terminology. Indeed, there is no word in Balinese for "culture", nor for "tourism"
either, whereas these words have entered Indonesian via Sanskrit.
(15) See Seminar Pariwisata Budaya 1971.
(16) Far more anyway than what is actually the case. As the authors of the Master Plan had
rightly asserted, for the majority of tourists, who barely venture out of their beach resort, Bali
is basically a tropical destination whose cultural image confers some extra glamour to their
holiday, compared to, say, Hawaii or the Maldives. Thus, the Balinese claim that tourists are
really eager to discover the cultural wonders of their island is more an expression of wishful
thinking - besides being an ideological stance of the utmost importance - than a statement of
factual evidence.
(17) Even, of course, if it is also that. Strictly speaking, there is no solution to a dilemma, as
each of its terms leads to the same result, which appears at once undesirable and inescapable.
The choice being impossible, the perception of a problem as a dilemma entails various
escapist strategies, such as attempts to label the situation in order to symbolically control it. In
this respect, the discourse of Cultural Tourism works as a "magic" formula, by qualifying as
Balinese a tourist policy largely controlled from outside the island. On this, see Picard 1990b.
(18) For a circumstantial appraisal of these reports, see Francillon 1979.
(19) The English translation cannot but imperfectly render the idea conveyed by the
Indonesian terminology. The term pembinaan implies an intention, a concerted effort to
shape, to build up and to promote a quality, which is not taken for granted but should be
developed in a certain direction. On the contrary, the word pengembangan brings forth the
idea of an opening up, of an organic growth analogous to a natural evolution, like a
blossoming flower.
(20) Proyek Sasana Budaya Jakarta 1979: 6.
(21) The main seminar on tourism held in Bali during the 1980s is a case in point. Whereas
the previous ones dealt with «the promotion of culture and the development of tourism», the
seminar organized by the provincial government in 1987 focused specifically on «the
promotion and development of tourism». And the one and only paper dealing with culture,
given by the Head of the Regional Service of Culture, was mostly devoted to specify what the
Balinese culture should be in order to contribute more effectively to the development of
tourism. See Pemerintah Daerah 1987.
(22) One should find already a clue of what happened in the vocabulary used by the Balinese
authorities. Even though the doctrine of "Cultural Tourism" was phrased in the national
language, when speaking of "cultural pollution" the Balinese frequently resorted to a
vernacular terminology, whereas the slogan "cultural renaissance" is generally voiced in
English. This double switch of language, first from Balinese to Indonesian - with the use of
Balinese terms to express key cultural concepts -, and then the change-over to English, is a
sign of a revealing shift of identity, pointing to the fact that Bali has become more and more
integrated within the Indonesian state as well as within the international tourist market.
(23) Originating in the work of Fredrik Barth, the notion of "boundary maintenance" was
later to be taken up in numerous studies dealing with the impact of tourism on indigenous
cultures. In these studies, the capacity of a local population to maintain a duality of meanings
- that is, a cultural performance will continue to have a signification for the native people
independent of the presence of tourists, and it would take place even in the absence of a
foreign audience - has been elected as a criterion permitting their authors to assess the
integrity of the culture under scrutiny.
(24) Noronha 1979: 201-202.
(25) Maurer 1979: 97.
(26) Maurer & Zeigler 1988: 81.
(27) Proyek Pemeliharaan dan Pengembangan Kebudayaan Daerah 1971.
(28) See Picard 1990a, for a discussion of the problems raised by this seminar and the way
they were handled.
(29) Pandji 1985: 480-81.
(30) On this question, see Lanfant & Graburn 1992.
(31) "Balinese culture" is also the emblem which differentiates the province "Bali" from the
other provinces composing the Republic of Indonesia. So much so that, strictly speaking, the
touristification of Bali cannot be considered apart from its Indonesianization. On this, see
Picard 1993.
(32) The Balinese are not the only people to face such a challenge, witness the studies
implying that touristified peoples are beginning to question their own identity while tourists
demand that they should present an authentic image of themselves. On this, see Bruner 1991,
Errington & Gewertz 1989, MacCannell 1984, etc.
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