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Step-by-Step Guide To Upsizing Rings

The document provides a step-by-step guide to upsizing rings written by Joel McFadden. The guide outlines the process which includes: [1] splitting the ring using a jeweler's saw; [2] stretching the ring over a mandrel; [3] soldering sizing stock to one end of the ring shank; [4] cutting excess stock and closing the seam. The overall technique allows jewelers to quickly and accurately upsize rings with minimal waste.

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97 views9 pages

Step-by-Step Guide To Upsizing Rings

The document provides a step-by-step guide to upsizing rings written by Joel McFadden. The guide outlines the process which includes: [1] splitting the ring using a jeweler's saw; [2] stretching the ring over a mandrel; [3] soldering sizing stock to one end of the ring shank; [4] cutting excess stock and closing the seam. The overall technique allows jewelers to quickly and accurately upsize rings with minimal waste.

Uploaded by

Gi
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Home » Learning Center » Step-by-Step Tutorials » Step-by-Step Guide to Upsizing Rings

Step-by-Step Guide to Upsizing


Rings

by Joel McFadden

When I ran a trade shop, time was money, and I often found myself sizing 50 to 60
rings in a day. When you’re doing that kind of volume, being able to quickly size up rings
can make a big difference on your bottom line. Here’s my technique for sizing rings up
quickly, accurately, and with the least amount of waste.

Step-by-Step Guide to Upsizing Rings – Skill level: Beginner

Hold the ring securely on your bench pin or on a ring


pin on your bench. Split the ring using a jeweler’s saw.

Pull the ring over a metal mandrel until it stretches. You


may have to gently tap the shank with a rawhide mallet
or plastic hammer to round it properly. Avoid tapping
any hollow areas or close to gemstones.

I like to make my own sizing stock, preferring to use


long square or rectangle pieces. These will work on
almost every type of shank and are less wasteful than
trying to make stock for different ring profiles. Take a
piece of stock that is close to the cross section of the
ring being sized. Cut a small chip of solder and lay it on
a soldering block (the chip should be about the same
size as the cross section of the ring). Heat it with a torch
until it balls up. Holding one end of the stock with
soldering tweezers, add a drop of flux to the other end
of the stock and then apply heat and join the stock to
the ball of solder.

Dip the ring into a mix of boric acid and alcohol, then
place it in a third hand. Let the alcohol dry or burn it off
with a torch. (Be careful not to do this near heat
sensitive stones.) The boric acid coating will keep the
ring from oxidizing and turning red. Use soldering
tweezers to hold the sizing stock, then hold the end
with the solder ball to one open end of the ring shank.
With a torch, apply heat to the two pieces until the
solder melts and joins them. A soft brusher flame with
no hissing sound is better for this.

Quench the ring in water, then slide it onto a mandrel.


Pull the ring to the appropriate size and use a scribe to
mark where the sizing stock overlaps the open end of
the shank.

Place the ring back on the ring pin and cut it where the
mark is, removing the excess stock. If the cut isn’t
square, run a small flat needle file over it once. This will
remove any flashing the saw may have left behind.

Use a pair of ring bending pliers to close the gap


between the stock and shank end. Make sure that the
seam is as tight as possible. Dip the ring in boric acid
and alcohol and burn off any excess. Add flux to the
seam and place a chip of solder the same size as the
earlier one to the seam. Use a torch to solder the end in
place.

Finish by filing the sizing stock to match the band’s


profile and then polish the newly upsized ring.

Joel McFadden is a third-generation jeweler who learned the trade from his
grandfather and other old-time jewelers in Charleston, South Carolina. He currently is
the owner of The Art of Jewelry by Joel McFadden, a custom design jewelry boutique in
Red Bank, New Jersey.
In association with

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professional jewelry makers, designers, and related suppliers. It offers design ideas,
fabrication and production techniques, bench tips, business and marketing
insights, and trend and technology updates—the information crucial for business
success. “More than other publications, MJSA Journal is oriented toward people
like me: those trying to earn a living by designing and making jewelry,” says Jim
Binnion of James Binnion Metal Arts.

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Category:
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Fold Forming, Fusing and Welding, Jewelry Making, Metal Forming,
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