NORTH MASON WOODWORKING

UNIT 1: SAFETY
General Shop Safety, Hand Tools, Power Tools, Woodworking Terminology

Prompt 1: In 150 words, explain the number one cause of accidents in the

woodshop and why it occurs. How can you avoid it happening to

you?

Prompt 2: In 150 words, explain how impatience and hurrying to finish a task can be your worst enemy.
Explain how the virtues of patience, peace, and self-control will help you?

Prompt 3: Write the definition for the following woodworking terms:

Board Face

Board Edge

Board End

Grain

Grit

Kerf

Warp

Square

Joint/joinery

Countersink

Pilot Hole

Kick-back

With the grain/Across the grain.

Rip Cut,

Crosscut
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Chapter 1

General Shop Safety

The following shop safety rules have been put in place for student safety while working in North Mason
High School woodshop. All safety rules must be followed COMPLETELY by ALL students.

“Always Think Safety”

All accidents can be prevented with common sense and attention to the safety rules.

A. Proper Personal Protective Equipment

1. Required safety gear

a. Safety glasses: Students must wear safety glasses at all times while in the woodshop area to
prevent flying particles or corrosive substances (stain, lacquer, oils, etc) from entering their
eyes.

2. Required safety dress code:

a. Nothing loose. Tie up, roll up, fasten, or remove any loose clothing, long sleeves, scarves,
jewelry, and hair. Such items are easily caught in moving parts and can cause serious injury.

b. Do not wear rings, watches, sweaters, loose long sleeve shirts, etc., as this will increase
chances for an accident as such items could get caught in the equipment

c. Non-slip shoes that cover the top of your feet and toes must be worn. Such shoes prevent
slipping and help avoid toe injuries. No sandals, flip flops slides or high heels in the woodshop.

d. Personal protective equipment(PPE): It is required that students wear ear plugs/muffs when
loud machinery is running and a dust mask when needed. It is also recommended students wear
a face shield for those operations that throw a lot of wood chips.

e. DO NOT WEAR GLOVES when operating rotating or reciprocating machines. Gloves hinder the
ability to effectively use your hands and may get caught in moving machinery.
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B. Proper Preparation
1. Project planning:

a. Plan the work and work the plan. Come to the woodshop prepared and have a clear plan of
what you will be doing. Doing so helps you keep your mind on what you’re doing.

b. Think it through. Know what operations you will be performing, the order in which you will be
doing the work, and how you are going to make the cut. Know what you are going to do, and
how you are going to do it BEFORE you begin. If you are not certain, ask for help. Rehearse cuts
before cutting. Measure twice, cut once.

c. Tool Certification: You must be certified to use a piece of machinery before using it. A written
and hands on safety test must be passed with a 100% accuracy before being certified.

2. Attitude:

a. Come with an attitude to work and to work safely. The number one cause of accidents is “not
paying attention.” Keep your mind on your work.

b. You MUST NOT PLAY, CLOWN AROUND, or RUN in the shop area. Do not tamper or play with
tools. What I mean is no horseplay or you will be dropped from the class.

c. Always keep your mind on your work and do not talk to others while operating equipment.
Talking with others can result in an accident. If your mind is on someone else, it is not on your
work.

d. Be patient, kind, and courteous. Do not rush your work or the work of the person using the
machine for which you are waiting. Do not crowd or hurry a person at a machine. A distracted
worker is an accident waiting to happen.

e. Think safe, feel safe: You are under no obligation to use power tools or machinery. If you do
not feel safe using a certain tool, do not use that tool. Similarly, if you are in any doubt about
how to use a piece of machinery or the cut you plan to make, inform the instructor.

f. Never talk to or distract a student using a machine. Such distractions can cause serious injury.
You must stand outside the yellow lines when the area is occupied by a user.

g. Never allow yourself to be distracted while using a machine. If someone talks to you, ignore
them, finish your cut, turn off the machine, wait for the blade to stop, and then address them.
Never turn on a machine when someone else is inside the yellow lines with you.

h. If you feel ill or are on any medication that could impair your ability to work safely, inform the
instructor. Moreover, if your mind is “elsewhere” (problems at home, relational issues, worry,
stress, etc.), do not work on machinery. Rather, perform work that is not dangerous, such as
drafting, organizing, sanding, staining, or cleaning.

i. Report any injury to the teacher immediately, no matter how small the injury is.

j. We are here to work hard and efficiently. Do not sit on workbenches or machinery.
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3. Wood selection:

a. Only material furnished or approved by the instructor is to be used.

b. All material is to be inspected for knots and nails before using. These may fly off during
cutting and cause bodily injury or damage the machine.

c. Do not use salvaged barn or pallet lumber in any machine milling process. This type of wood
may contain sand, rocks or hidden nails that may damage machine blades and cutter heads.
Only clean new wood goes into machines.

C. Proper work environment

1. Cleanliness

a. It is every student’s responsibility to clean the shop at the end of class.

b. Keep the floor clean and free of scrap material, sawdust, oil, wax, and grease. Such messes
cause slips, trips, and falls. If you see it, it is up to you to clean it! No “step-overs.”

c. Keep work areas clean. Messy work areas are unsafe areas. Always use a hand brush to clean
up scrap material, shavings, and sawdust. Never use your hand.

d. Always wait for moving parts (blades, drill bits, sanding discs, etc.) to come to a complete stop
before removing scrap material or saw dust. Moving parts, no matter how slow, are still a
danger.

e. Put away leftover wood immediately. Do not leave scrap material behind for someone else to
move out of their way. Put away your own material.

f. Place electrical cords and vacuums out of the path of travel. To avoid tripping accidents, make
certain electrical cords are flat on the floor and not suspended in the air.

g. Clean paint brushes immediately after using. Put used rags in the proper container.

h. Keep your behavior clean: Absolutely no vulgar, crude, or rude behavior will be tolerated.
That means no cussing no coarse joking, and no inappropriate touching or show of affection. It
means to respect one another.

i. Report all breakage or damage to tools or machinery to the instructor immediately. Moreover,
if a machine is running poorly, making an unusual sound, or is out of adjustment, the student
shall turn it off immediately, unplug it so that others don’t use it, and inform the instructor
directly.

2. Eliminating distractions

a. The use of cell phones, tablets, i-pods, i-pads, or any such devices is prohibited while in the
woodshop.

b. Music will not be played while the shop is in use.

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c. Yellow lines are painted on the floor around machinery. Only one person may be inside the
yellow lines at a time. Talking with someone while they are in the yellow lines is not allowed.

3. Carrying, moving, storing

a. When lifting, keep your back straight and lift with your legs. Do not strain yourself.

b. If something is too heavy, ask for help or use a hand-truck, a lever, dolly, jack, wheels, or
rollers. If you must strain to lift or carry something then it is too heavy for you.

c. Always carry long objects with the front end high enough to avoid hitting someone. If the
front end is low, it may not only hit someone, but also strike the ground and put a sudden stop
to your movement causing injury to someone following you.

d. Any left-over wood should be returned to the proper area immediately, do not leave it behind
for someone else. Small offcuts go in marked bins. Long y wood should be returned to their
marked shelves. Plywood is stored in plywood racks.
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Fire prevention

1. When using power tools it is the responsibility of the student to be aware of a tool getting hot. If this
happens immediately turn it off, unplug it, and report it to the teacher.

2. If a tool emits a “burning smell” inform the instructor immediately.

3. Any finishing materials should not be used near an open flame. This would also include thinners and
paints.

4. Rags that have absorbed any amount of linseed oil, solvents, stains, paints, or any other finishing
products must be disposed in an approved covered metal container as a precaution against spontaneous
combustion.

5. When using propane torches , report to the instructor any odor of gas. Gas can not only cause a fire or
an explosion, it can also make people ill.

6. When unplugging an electrical cord, always do so by the plug itself and not by the cord. This causes
damage to the wires and can eventually be the cause of a fire.

Fire Extinguishing

1. Leave firefighting to the professionals. Call 911 immediately. In the event of a small fire

(nothing larger than your hand), put it out quickly before it has time to grow, but know the

following:

a. Know the location of all fire extinguishers - including hoses - and how to use them.

b. Do not hang anything on fire extinguishers. The area around fire extinguishers should be

kept clear so that they may be reached without delay.

c. Flammable liquid fires should be put out by smothering with non-flammable material.

Spraying such fires spreads the fire.

d. CO2 extinguishers should be used on gasoline fires and most chemical and electrical

fires. Use water, not CO2 extinguishers, on wood or wood product fires.

e. Extinguish fires quickly, while they are small. Do not attempt to put out large fires.

Nothing we own is worth injuring yourself or losing your life.

f. In the event of a fire, do not panic. If it is small (i.e. the size of your hand), put it out

immediately. Don’t give it time to get large and out of control. If it is a large fire, inform

the instructor immediately and calmly follow his/her instructions. Walk calmly to the

nearest exit.

g. Smoke inhalation and heat can kill you as easily as fire. Stay away.
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Chapter 2

Hand tools and Power tools

Hand tools are non-powered instruments used for construction. Unlike power tools, they are not driven
by electrical, fuel, or pneumatic (air) power. They are driven by muscle and controlled by the hand.
Proper use of these tools will help prevent accidents.

Hand Tools

A. Hand tool preparation

1. Make sure tool handles are not split and are tightly fastened. Many injuries occur when the
handles

of tools come off (hammer head flies off, file tang punctures, saw handle separates).

2. To prevent slipping, make sure your hands are dry and not oily when using tools.

3. Put tools back in their proper place. Do not leave hand tools in the work area or sticking out
from

workbenches. Otherwise, students may be injured by brushing against the teeth or sharp edges.

B. Hand tool selection

1. Use the proper size screwdriver to fit the screw. Improperly sized tools slip out of the screw
and may puncture you or your material.

2. Only use a tool for what it is made for. Wrenches are not for hammering, chisels are not for
prying, screwdrivers are not for chiseling, files are not for hitting or prying, and so on.

C. Hand tool use

1. Most accidents with hand tools will be to the non-dominant hand (the hand not holding the tool), so

be aware of hand positioning.

a. Screwdrivers: Never hold work in the palm of your hand while using a screwdriver. As a result

of doing so you may slip off and inflict a puncture wound. If the work is unstable, secure it in a

vise, clamp, or workbench.

b. Chisels: Keep your hands clear of the blade. The wood should be secure enough for you to not

have to hold it. Use a clamp or vice if necessary. Chisels require two hands to use safely (even if

one hand is striking with a mallet).

c. Chisels: Chisel strokes should always go away from the body. Place your dominant hand on
the

handle. With the other hand guide/stabilize the blade. Hold the tool firmly to prevent slipping.
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d. Hand saws: Start a hand saw cut with the dominant hand on the saw handle and position the
saw blade against the thumb onto the mark. Steadily draw the blade backwards. When the
teeth bite, push the saw downward (or upstroke depending on the blade) to complete the first
cut. Then, release pressure, pull backward, and push downward again for the next cut. Continue
this process until the wood is completely cut.

e. Hand planes: Work is to be securely fastened in a clamp or vice before planning. Always plane
away from you and never put your non-dominant hand on the work being planed.

2. When pounding or cutting, be sure that the chips fly away from you and others.

3. Never throw tools to or at other students.

4. Never hammer on a vise or vise jaws.

5. When handling sharp tools, always point the sharp end down. Do not carry sharp tools in your

pocket, do not let sharp tools hang of the workbench, and when handing a sharp tool to someone else

always give them the handle first. When cutting with a sharp tool, cut away from your body.

6. When using clamps or vises make sure they are tight before starting work on a project.
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Power Tools
As stated in the last chapter, “whether a tool is safe or not will depend upon you.” If you will learn the general
safety guidelines to using power equipment, you will be well on your way to a safe and enjoyable woodworking
experience. Here are some keys to remember:

A. Always wear eye protection

B. You must be certified on a tool before operating it.

C. Never operate equipment while the teacher is out of the shop area.

D. Make sure equipment safety guards are on and working correctly before using any machine.

E. Avoid wearing loose clothing and tie back long hair while using equipment.

F. Keep rags away from equipment.

G. Use a brush to clean ships or shavings off of equipment. Never use your hand.

H. Never adjust equipment while it is running.

I. Turn the machine off when you are done and never walk away from it while it is running. Always wait for a
blade, bit, cutter, or sander to come to a complete stop before leaving. Never leave it running or unattended.
Machines are quieter than you think, and others may not know it is running. Blades are often felt before they
are heard.

J. Do not force wood through the machines as this could result in kick back.

K. Hold wood firmly when running it through equipment.

L. Check all wood for knots, splits, nails, etc. to make it safe to cut. Inspect for and remove all nails from lumber
before cutting. Try to do layout cuts between knots.

M. Position yourself properly when using equipment. Maintain a well-balanced solid stance. Know the flow zone
and stand away from it. Never walk in the fly zone of another user.

N. Keep area clear to prevent injury.

O. Don’t talk to anyone and keep your mind on your work while using equipment.

P. Always make certain the power switch is in the off position before plugging in a machine. Often times you will
have to lean over the machine to plug it in. If it suddenly comes on, you risk being injured. Other times material
may be touching the blade and it will be sent flying when you plug it in.

Q. Always unplug a machine when you are changing a blade or cutter.

R. Make certain all adjustments and changes to blades, bits, and cutters are tightened properly before turning on
a machine. After new cutters are installed, turn on the machine briefly, turn it off, and check the cutter again.

S. Always allow a tool to reach full operating speed before starting your cut. Feed the wood or cutter carefully
and only as fast as the machine can cut easily. Learn to listen for “bog down” (the sound of a slowing blade),
and smell for “wood burn” (the smell produced when you are moving too slow or the cutter is dull).

T. If a tool is not performing properly (or even sounds odd), it may be out of adjustment. Shut it off, unplug it, and
tell the teacher immediately.

U. BE IN CONTROL, REMAIN IN CONTROL: Turn on and turn off your own machine. You, as the user must remain in
control and aware at all times.
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The Ten Commandments of Machine Safety

1. PAY ATTENTION: Not paying attention is the number one cause of accidents. Think. Think. Think.
Keep your mind on your work. Give your work your undivided attention. Do not look around, talk to
others, or use a machine without rehearsing the cut in your mind first.

2. KEEP MACHINE GUARDS IN PLACE at all times. Guards are there to protect you. If a guard has been
removed tell the teacher so that he/she may put it back on before you begin.

3. DO NOT OVER REACH: Never reach across or over a moving blade.

4. KNOW THE FLY ZONE: Know where the wood is going to go, kick back, or fly if you lose control of it,
and do not stand in that area. For example: A drill press will spin the wood clockwise, so the long side of
the material should be to the left. A table saw will throw the wood backward, so stand to the side.

5. PROPER TOOL USE: Only use a tool for what it is made for. Understand grain direction, rip-cuts,
crosscuts, blade direction, and proper blade installation. Turn off a tool when you are finished and wait
for it to come to a complete stop before leaving. Blades are often felt before they are heard.

6. PROPER WOOD SIZE: Many accidents occur simply because a person attempts to cut a piece of wood
that is too small or too big. Smaller pieces of lumber are easily grabbed by the blade and the hand
holding the wood quickly follows. Because lumber that is too large must be forced into the blade, the
extra force required can cause slipping, thrusting, or sudden release. Body parts then lunge forward into
the blade. Oversized lumber is under control of the blade, not your hands.

7. SPECIAL SET-UP APPROVAL: A special cut requires guards to be removed, and if not done correctly
will cause serious injury. Always inform the teacher of any special set-up you are thinking on attempting.

8. PROPER HAND PLACEMENT: Always hold the wood firmly. Never cross your arms. Do not push wood
hard towards the blade. Do not force wood. You may slip and fall into the blade.

9. KEEP FINGERS CLEAR: Keep your fingers clear of blades, rotating parts, pinch points, and electrical
plugs by maintaining a clearance of 2 to 4 inches. To assure your safety and the safety of others, only cut
wood that is a minimum of 12” long.

10. KEEP WORK AGAINST THE FENCE AND ON THE TABLE: Wood should be firmly against the fence and
the table before cutting. The blades and cutters are designed to drive/throw/press the wood against the
fence and table. In other words, if you don’t have wood there, the blade will put it there for you, along
with your hand.

And two safety tid-bits

1. SHARP TOOLS ARE SAFER THAN DULL TOOLS: Use sharp tools! Dull tools require excess pressure to
push, thus increasing the risk of slipping into a blade. Dull tools are also hard to control. Sharp tools do
what they’re designed to do.

2. USE YOUR SENSES: Woodworking requires all of the senses: seeing, smelling, hearing, feeling, and
even tasting (believe me you can taste burning wood). Improve your craft: engage your senses. Ensure
your safety: engage your senses.
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Chapter 3

Causes of Accidents
Though the greatest cause of accidents in the woodshop can be summed up as happening because
someone was “not paying attention,” or “didn’t have their mind on their work,” there are many factors
that lead to injury. Here are a few.

Ignorance Carelessness Lack of judgment

Rushing a job Overconfidence Making too heavy of a cut
Talking while working Using a dull tool Using an improperly set or
adjusted tool
Fatigue Using wrong material Improper body positioning
Absent-mindedness Improper clothing A disorderly or messy
woodshop
Using unsafe material Eyestrain Inadequately guarded
machinery

“Whether tools are harmful or safe depends on you.”

When you fail to practice safety, you put yourself and others in danger. Remember, the greatest virtue
you have is patience, and your most valued skill is the ability to stay focused. Don’t get hurt, and don’t
hurt others by:
Talking while working

Causing loud, sudden noises unrelated to the woodshop (yelling, sneezing obnoxiously, slamming, etc.)

Cutting while someone is in your fly zone

Leaving behind a mess

Leaving unused wood laying around

Leaving tools out

Not replacing dull or overused equipment

Leaving stuff on the floor that can trip people up (cords, boards, tools, etc.)

Not clamping work appropriately

Swinging tools wildly

Using tools in an unsafe manner

Getting too comfortable with a machine

Being a know-it-all about a machine

Holding wood for a person while they are cutting it on a machine

Crowding someone on a machine

Hurrying someone while they are on a machine

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Distracting people by drawing unnecessary attention to yourself

Using a tool you have not be certified to use

Ignoring, forgetting, or otherwise not thinking about the safety requirements of the machinery

Taking advice from someone other than the instructor

In order to be safe, you must know the dangers that come with each piece of equipment. You should
know exactly what a machine is used for and what it is not used for. You should know the warnings that
come with the tool. And, you should know the major cause of accidents that occur while using the
machine.
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Chapter 4

Virtues of Woodworking
Virtues are a quality of your personality and character that benefits yourself and others. A virtuous
person is said to be someone whose behavior is highly respected. For your safety and the safety of
others, we in the North Mason CTE department expect students to be virtuous woodworkers. Below is a
list of virtues we expect students to practice in their lives.

Patience: Patient people do not rush or hurry needlessly and carelessly. This virtue is perhaps the most
beneficial for the safety of the woodworker. When you are impatient, mistakes happen, sometimes
painful ones. Don’t let this happen to you. Be patient!

Diligence: Diligence is the ability to stay focused, work hard, and be attentive. When you come to the
woodshop, you come to work. Be self-motivated and take initiative, don’t just stand around. If you don’t
know how to do something, ask.

Creativity: Being creative means you use the resources provided to come up with your own ideas, plans,
and special touch. Look for ways to add that little extra to your work. Creativity is always accepted. In
fact, in woodworking we like to think that we never make mistakes; we just create opportunities to be
creative.

Cooperation: Working well with others is a valuable asset. Don’t rush others. Be kind, gentle, and
considerate of the time, beliefs, and abilities of others.

Sobriety: Being sober simply means that you think clearly. Come to class with a clear head. Use common
sense when working in the shop. Take time to clear your head and consider what you are doing.

Critical thinking: While in the woodshop, you will be expected to think for yourself. The woodshop is
designed to build self-confidence. If you rely on others for answers, you’ll never develop the confidence
necessary in life. Be creative and think through solutions before asking others.

Honesty: It is expected that students be honest in everything they do. They do not copy other people’s
work, cheat on tests, or turn in projects they did not do. Do not let others do cuts for you. If you are
scared, be honest and inform the instructor so that appropriate steps can be taken to help you.
Moreover, if you break something, tell the teacher. The bottom line is to take responsibility for yourself
and own up to your mistakes.

Respect: Students are to respect the instructor, each other, and the property of North Mason High
School. Treat people better than you want to be treated, and treat property better than you treat your
own property. The woodshop is a privilege not a right, so be respectful in all you do.
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Chapter 5

Woodworking Terminology
Believe it or not, a part of safety is terminology. It is important that you understand the terms being
used in the woodshop so that you don’t get confused and do something wrong. As is always the case,
“Ask if you are ever unsure about what has been said.” Study the words and phrases below for your
safety and the safety of others. Confusion only gets people hurt.

Woodworking Terminology

Note that the following terms are defined in the context of the woodworking shop and may be different
from definitions found elsewhere.

Backer board a piece of wood or plywood placed on the back side of a workpiece in order to provide
support or minimize tearout

Bevel an angled edge or end, where the entire surface of the edge or end is angled (different from a
chamfer)

Chamfer an angled surface on the edge or end of a board that spans from the edge or end to the face
(different from a bevel)

Chuck a device (usually on a drill or drill press) used to clamp a bit in place, capable of gripping a large
range of bit or shank sizes and often utilizing a key to operate

Collet a device (usually on a router) that clamps a bit in place, sized for a specific bit or shank diameter,
e.g. ¼” or ½”, and utilizing one or two wrenches to operate

Crosscut to cut across the grain

Cutterhead a cylindrical block with knives or cutters positioned around its perimeter

Dado a groove running across the grain

Dado head or stack a set of blades stacked side-by-side for use on the table saw, used for making
dadoes or grooves

Edge the smaller pair of surfaces (relative to the face) on a board that exhibit long grain

End the pair of surfaces of a board that exhibits end grain

End grain wood fibers that are oriented perpendicular to the surface of a piece of lumber (as seen on
the ends of a board)

Face the largest pair of long-grain surfaces of a board

Fence a beam or board used to guide a workpiece past a blade or bit

Green a term used to describe lumber that has not been dried

Joint to flatten and smooth the face or edge of a board using the jointer (see the Jointer section in this
manual)
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Long grain wood fibers that are oriented parallel to the surface of a piece of lumber (as seen on the
faces and edges of a board)

Lumber a solid wood board

Grain the cylindrical fibers (like soda straws) which make up lumber, oriented along the vertical axis of a
tree

Grit Abrasive material, such as sand, used for removing wood. When sand is glued to paper it is called
“sandpaper.” Grit refers to the degree of roughness. Grit may be coarse (very rough) to fine (smooth),
and is defined by the size and amount of sand granules in a square inch.

Groove a square or rectangular slot or channel that that runs with the grain

Kerf the slot created by a blade or bit

Kickback a dangerous situation in which a workpiece is forcibly ejected from a machine, often at
tremendous speed

Margin of Safety the minimum distance the operator’s hands, fingers, or other body parts should be
from a cutter, blade, or bit

MDF medium-density fiberboard; a man-made sheet material made of fine particles glued together to
make a smooth-faced, stable product

Melamine a man-made sheet material made from particle board with a thin layer of plastic on one or
both faces, often used for cabinet construction

Mortise a hole or slot with at least two flat sides into which another part is inserted (typically a tenon)

Offcut the part of a piece being cut that is on the far side of a blade and is therefore not typically held or
controlled by the operator

Particle board a man-made sheet material made from medium-sized particles glued together to make a
moderately smooth-faced, stable product (coarser than MDF)

Pilot hole a small hole drilled as a guide for the insertion of a nail or screw, or for the drilling of a larger
hole

Plane (v.) to flatten and smooth the face or edge of a board using a plane or planer (see the following
entries) Plane (n.) a hand tool used to smooth and flatten a surface (also referred to as a hand plane)
Planer the stationary machine described in this document used to make the face of a board smooth and
parallel to the opposite face

Platen a flat reference surface, typically the surface on which a belt-sander belt runs

Pushblock a safety device with a broad base and handle used to guide a workpiece past a cutter, blade,
or bit, thereby keeping the operator’s hands at a safe distance

Pushpad a safety device with a broad soft base and handle used to guide a workpiece past a cutter,
blade, or bit, thereby keeping the operator’s hands at a safe distance.
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Pushstick a safety device used to guide a workpiece past a cutter, blade, or bit, thereby keeping the
operator’s hands at a safe distance

Rabbet a stepped surface on the edge or end of a board

Resaw to cut a piece of wood in order to make it thinner

Rough a term used to describe lumber that has not been surfaced (smoothed) on its faces or edges

Rip to cut parallel with the grain

Sheet good man-made sheet material, like plywood, melamine, or MDF

Sled a carrier consisting of a base and fence for controlling a workpiece during a cutting operation,
typically guided in some way (by runners or an external, stationary fence)

Special setup a machine operation that exposes the operator to greater than average risk; a special
setup requires instructor approval prior to operating the machine

Square (v.) to make a either a project or piece of wood have 90 degree corners. (n.) A tool used to
measure and mark 90 degrees.

Stock the piece being worked (same as Workpiece)

Tearout torn or damaged fibers, typically caused by a blade or bit exiting the workpiece

Track on a belt sander, to adjust the belt to run true on the machine and not off to one side

Trigger lock the button on some hand-held power tools that locks the trigger in the ON position

V-block a block with a V-shaped channel along its length

Warp a lumber defect describing stock that is not flat; the four types of warp are cup, bow, crook, and
twist

With the grain/across the grain: With the grain means parallel to the grain lines. Across the grain means
perpendicular to the grain lines.

Workpiece the piece being worked (same as Stock)

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