table of contents

15 Hot from the Oven: Italian Ingredients We Love

Here, we share some of our favorite Italian
31 Bakery Profile: A Forno in Florence
Take a look inside one of the most delectable
ingredients, including a famed chocolate bakeries in Florence, Italy, S.forno, a modern gem
hazelnut spread and an extra-virgin olive oil that celebrates its ancient roots
that is the very essence of Italian flavor

19 Baker Spotlight: Giulia Ciaghi 37 Bread Box: Sweet and Swirled Italian Breads
Take a trip to northern Italy without ever leaving
One of our readers shares stories of her childhood your kitchen with these recipes for Gubana and
spent with her Italian grandmother in the Alps Venetian Brioche Buns, both beautifully swirled
of Italy and then gives a glimpse into the Italian and full of flavor
home kitchen with a recipe for torta di mele

23 From the Pantry: Italian Flours 41 THE ESSENTIAL . . . TIRAMISÙ

Learn every step in making this stacked dessert,
From semolina to 00 and everything in
between, we take a deep dive into the world of from baking your own ladyfingers to making your
Italian flours own creamy filling

29 Back of the Box: Pan di Spagna

We try out our own take on this Italian sponge
49 TORTA: CAKE, ITALIAN STYLE
This collection of Italian torte includes classics like
cake found in an Italian leaven ad pamphlet, torta della nonna filled with creamy custard and
adding pistachio, almond, and an orange mimosa cake covered in a cloud of sponge cake cubes
blossom-ricotta whipped topping for a tasty twist

3 bake from scratch

57 JULS’ TUSCAN KITCHEN 93 PIEMONTE PERFETTO
Fernanda Giamello offers an exquisite taste of
Cookbook author and blogger Giulia
Scarpaleggia takes us inside her Tuscan classic Piemontese cuisine, from baci di dama to
kitchen to share four recipes, including ravioli
delightfully crisp biscotti and pillowy
rosemary-raisin buns
103 BRIAN’S ROMAN BREAKFAST QUEST
Join our editor-in-chief as he explores the streets of
67 LA DOLCE VITA Rome on a quest to start his day as the Romans do
Highlighting regional ingredients, favorite
local food purveyors, and traditional recipes,
let this feature transport you to the bel paese
(beautiful country)
109 Origin of a Classic: Maritozzi
Spectacularly sized and practically bursting with
whipped cream, the maritozzo is a treat you’ll have
to bake to believe
85 4 WAYS WITH CHOCOLATE
HAZELNUT SPREAD
Featuring perhaps one of America’s favorite
113 Fast-Fix Baking: Soft Amaretti Cookies
When you’re craving a cookie that’s equal parts
Italian ingredients, these recipes place simple and sweet, there’s no better choice than
chocolate and hazelnuts front and center in the Italian amaretti cookie
a Nutella-filled crumble cake and chocolate
salami that can’t be missed

july | august 2022 4

 ADVERTISING

ESPRESSO AND AMARETTI SEMIFREDDO

A generous handful of airy almond macaroons, crumbled into pieces and swirled into our Lavazza Espresso-spiked semifreddo,
lends pleasing crunch to each refreshingly cold spoonful of the partially frozen, mocha-flavored dessert.

Makes about 10 servings 1. Line a 9x5-inch loaf pan with plastic wrap, 5. Clean bowl of stand mixer and whisk
leaving a 4-inch overhang on all sides. Place attachment. Using the whisk attachment,
⅓ cup (80 grams) plus 1 tablespoon pan in freezer until ready to use. beat egg yolks at high speed until thick and
(15 grams) cold water, divided 2. In a small bowl, place 1 tablespoon pale, 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce mixer speed
½ teaspoon (2 grams) unflavored gelatin (15 grams) cold water; sprinkle gelatin on to medium; add sugar mixture in a slow,
1½ cups (360 grams) cold heavy whipping top, and let stand until hydrated, 3 to steady stream, and beat until pale, thick,
cream 5 minutes. and completely cool, about 3 minutes.
½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar 3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with 6. Fold one-third of whipped cream into
6 tablespoons (90 grams) brewed the whisk attachment, beat cold cream at egg yolk mixture until just combined.
Lavazza Espresso medium-high speed until soft peaks form. Gently fold in one-third of whipped
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt Transfer to a medium bowl; cover and cream until just combined; gently fold
6 large egg yolks (112 grams) refrigerate. in crumbled cookies, cacao nibs, and
1 cup (85 grams) crumbled amaretti 4. In a small heavy-bottomed saucepan, remaining whipped cream. Spoon and
cookies whisk together sugar, espresso, salt, and spread mixture evenly into prepared pan.
½ cup (60 grams) cacao nibs remaining ⅓ cup (80 grams) cold water. Cover and freeze overnight.
Garnish: crumbled amaretti cookies Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring 7. Uncover semifreddo; invert onto a
occasionally, until sugar dissolves; cook serving plate. Remove loaf pan, and
until a candy thermometer registers discard plastic wrap. Using a small offset
240°F (116°C), about 14 minutes. Add spatula, smooth sides, if needed. Garnish
gelatin mixture, and whisk until completely with crumbled cookies, if desired. Serve
dissolved. immediately.
 FROM SCRATCH
july | august 2022 Volume 8, Issue 4

EDITORIAL
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Brian Hart Hoffman

MANAGING EDITOR Kyle Grace Mills GROUP CREATIVE DIRECTOR

BAKING AND PASTRY EDITOR Deanna Rippy Gardner
Tricia Manzanero Stuedeman ART DIRECTOR Liz Kight
ASSISTANT EDITOR Olivia Kavanagh
SENIOR COPY EDITOR Rhonda Lee Lother SENIOR ST YLIST Sidney Bragiel
COPY EDITOR Meg Lundberg ST YLISTS
Courtni Bodiford, Lucy Finney, Mary Beth Jones,
CREATIVE DIRECTOR/PHOTOGRAPHY Lily Simpson, Dorothy Walton
Mac Jamieson
SENIOR PHOTOGRAPHER TEST KITCHEN DIRECTOR Laura Crandall
John O’Hagan FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS
PHOTOGRAPHERS Becca Cummins, Katie Moon Dickerson,
Jim Bathie, Steve Rizzo, Stephanie Welbourne Steele Kathleen Kanen, Megan Lankford, Leah Nicole Perez,
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
Vanessa Rocchio, Izzie Turner
RECIPE TESTER/ASSISTANT FOOD ST YLIST
Ed Anderson, Joann Pai
Aaron Conrad
SENIOR DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST
TEST KITCHEN ASSISTANT/PREP COOK Chloe Gebacz
Delisa McDaniel CONTRIBUTING FOOD ST YLISTS/RECIPE DEVELOPERS
DIGITAL IMAGING SPECIALIST Clark Densmore Giulia Ciaghi, Fernanda Giamello,
Enrica Monzani, Katie Parla, Giulia Scarpaleggia

D I G I TA L M E D I A A D M I N I S T R AT I V E
MARKETING DIRECTOR Kristy Harrison DEALER PROGRAM MANAGER Janice Ritter
SENIOR ONLINE EDITOR Courtney duQuesnay
DIGITAL DESIGNER Stephanie Lambert
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83PHC22
 EXPERTLY TESTED
RECIPES FEATURING
PREMIUM
INGREDIENTS

All recipes in each issue pass

through the hands of the
Bake from Scratch test kitchen.
Each is flavorful and distinctive
and developed with your unique
tastes in mind.

The below products are partners

of Bake from Scratch magazine
and used exclusively in all
of our recipes.

Want to bake with me in Italy? Save the date for May 2023.
To be placed on our interest list to receive information when it’s available,
email [email protected].

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 from the editor
CIAO, BAKERS!
or oke

B
At long last, Bake from Scratch has journeyed to the delicious
land of Italy, the birthplace of focaccia, tiramisù, and, of
course, Nutella.

This issue represents a baker’s pilgrimage to Italy, with a

stop at a beautiful forno (bakery) in Florence, a baking class
in Giulia Scarpaleggia’s Tuscan kitchen, and a pasta primer
with Fernanda Giamello in Alba. You can even join me on
my own personal Roman breakfast quest, where Katie Parla
helped me get acquainted with the cream-filled and pillowy-
soft maritozzo (try our recipe on page 111) and embrace the
pizza-for-breakfast lifestyle. Though this issue will feel like

oJ ann
a coffee table book—with its spectacular photography from
our longtime photographer-at-large Joann Pai—we still
have plenty of recipes to bring intense perspective on the
Italian baking tradition. From an essential guide to tiramisù
to a deep dive on new ways to use Nutella (featuring our
exquisite cover star, Chocolate Hazelnut-Filled Biscotti),
we celebrate every facet of the rustic beauty that Italian
cuisine is known for. No other feature captures this like La
Dolce Vita, our tasty travelogue that traces the itinerary
we followed to produce this issue. Joann, Brooke Bell, and
I blazed country roads and hairpin mountain turns to explore
the fine flavors of Liguria, Toscana, Piemonte, and more. As
you flip through, keep an eye out for the glossario entries
scattered throughout this issue—they’ll give you insight into
classic Italian phrases and baking terms.

But that’s just the tip of the Italian boot. In fact, we were so
overwhelmed with the many beautiful facets of Italian cuisine
that we had to keep our focus mainly on northern Italy, with
only a brief trip to Rome. Don’t worry, though—we will be
returning to the lovely Mediterranean gem and
its southern environs very soon. I can’t go long without a taste
of my favorite aperitivo, Campari Royale.

Until then, please enjoy our love letter to the Italian art of
baking. We hope you find it as eternally enchanting as the
country itself.

Happy baking,

Brian Hart Hoffman

Editor-in-Chief
july | august 2022 10
 on the cover

recipe index Chocolate

Hazelnut-Filled Biscotti
page 90
BARS AND COOKIES CAKES PHOTOGRAPHY BY
MAC JAMIESON
Baci di Alassio 89 Chocolate Hazelnut RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY
Baci di Dama 100 Sbrisolona 91 TRICIA MANZANERO
Chocolate Hazelnut-Filled Chocolate Zucchini Cake 13 STUEDEMAN
FOOD STYLING BY
Biscotti 90 Pistachio Pan di Spagna 30 KATIE MOON
Ladyfingers 44 Torta della Nonna 55 DICKERSON
STYLING BY
Occhi di Bue 61 Torta di Mele 20 LUCY FINNEY
Soft Amaretti Cookies 113 Torta di Semolino 54
Tuscan Biscotti with Pistachios and Torta di Susine 54
White Chocolate 65 Torta Mimosa 55 MISCELLANEOUS
Brine 76
BREADS FROSTINGS, FILLINGS, Brown Sugar Oatmeal Pancakes 14
Babà Rustico 27 AND GARNISHES Chocolate Hazelnut Panna Cotta 71
Biova Piemontese 98 Chocolate Hazelnut Glaze 90 Espresso and Amaretti Semifreddo 5
Chifferi 73 Gubana Filling 39 Farinata 77
Genoese Focaccia 75 Italian Lemon Pastry Cream 40, 56 Hazelnut-Pistachio-Chocolate Salami 89
Grissini 98 Orange Blossom Simple Syrup 30 Ravioli del “Plin” al Burro e Salvia 101
Gubana 39 Ricotta Whipped Cream 30 Tiramisù 44
Impasto per la Pizza Napoletana Vanilla Whipped Cream 71, 112
(Neapolitan-Style Pizza Dough) 84 PASTRIES, PIES, AND TARTS
Maritozzi 111 Farro and Ricotta Tart 60
Pan di Ramerino 64
Pizza Margherita (Margherita Pizza) 84
Venetian Brioche Buns 84

resources
La Dolce Vita
page 83
Pizza image by Ed Anderson.

11 bake from scratch

 ADVERTISING

HALEY WILLIAMS, the founder of the baking blog If You Give a Blonde a Kitchen, shares two delicious
recipes perfect for summer. Her Chocolate Zucchini Cake makes the most of fresh summer produce, while
her pancakes incorporate crunchy granola. Both make delicious use of C&H® Sugar.

CHOCOLATE ZUCCHINI CAKE

This Chocolate Zucchini Cake is a sweet, tender cake made moist by fresh summer squash and extra sweet
with C&H® Granulated Sugar and C&H® Light Brown Sugar.

Makes 1 (13x9-inch) cake

1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line a 13x9-inch baking
Recipe by Haley Williams pan with parchment paper.
Follow: @IfYouGiveABlondeAKitchen 2. For cake: In a large bowl, whisk together flour, cocoa,
baking soda, baking powder, and salt.
Cake: 3. In another large bowl, beat granulated sugar, brown sugar,
2 cups (250 grams) all-purpose flour oil, melted butter, sour cream, and vanilla with a mixer at
¾ cup (64 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder medium-high speed until well combined, about 2 minutes.
1½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) baking soda Add eggs, and beat until combined, about 1 minute. Using
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking powder a rubber spatula, fold sugar mixture into flour mixture just
½ teaspoon (3 grams) salt until combined. (Do not overmix.) Stir in zucchini and
¾ cup (150 grams) C&H® Granulated Sugar chocolate chips just until combined. Pour into prepared pan,
¾ cup (165 grams) firmly packed C&H® Light Brown Sugar spreading evenly.
¾ cup (168 grams) vegetable oil 4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center comes
¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, melted out with little to no crumbs, 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool
¼ cup (60 grams) sour cream, room temperature completely in pan.
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract 5. For frosting: In a large bowl, beat butter with a mixer at
4 large eggs (200 grams), room temperature medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Add
3 cups (350 grams) shredded zucchini, patted slightly dry confectioners sugar and cocoa, and beat until combined. Add
½ cup (85 grams) 60% cacao semisweet chocolate chips milk, 1 tablespoon (15 grams) at a time, and vanilla, and beat
until smooth. Transfer frosting to cooled cake, and use an
Frosting: offset spatula to spread evenly. Store in an airtight container
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter, room temperature for up to 3 days.
1¾ cups (210 grams) C&H® Confectioners Sugar
½ cup (43 grams) unsweetened cocoa powder Note: For the zucchini, pat until slightly dry. The squash should
1 to 3 tablespoons (15 to 45 grams) whole milk still have a little moisture in it when adding it to the cake batter.
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
 ADVERTISING

BROWN SUGAR OATMEAL PANCAKES

Brown Sugar Oatmeal Pancakes are the perfect treat for breakfast.
Top a fresh stack of pancakes with homemade granola and enjoy!

Makes 10 pancakes

Recipe by Haley Williams

Follow: @IfYouGiveABlondeAKitchen

Granola:
1 cup (80 grams) old-fashioned oats
⅓ cup (38 grams) coarsely chopped pecans
2 tablespoons (28 grams) firmly packed C&H® Light
Brown Sugar
2 tablespoons (28 grams) coconut oil, melted
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch salt

Pancakes:
1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour
⅔ cup (53 grams) old-fashioned oats
⅓ cup (73 grams) firmly packed C&H® Dark Brown
Sugar
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking soda
¼ teaspoon (1.5 grams) salt
1 cup (240 grams) whole buttermilk
1 large egg (50 grams)
2 tablespoons (28 grams) coconut oil, melted

Maple syrup, to serve

1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Spray a 12x9-inch

baking pan with cooking spray.
2. For granola: In a medium bowl, combine oats, pecans,
brown sugar, coconut oil, cinnamon, and salt. Spread
evenly on prepared pan.
3. Bake until golden brown, about 25 minutes, stirring
twice during baking to prevent burning. Transfer to a large
piece of foil, and let cool.
4. For pancakes: Heat a griddle pan or cast-iron skillet
over medium heat. Spray with cooking spray.
5. In a large bowl, whisk together flour, oats, brown sugar,
baking soda, and salt.
6. In a small bowl, whisk together buttermilk, egg, and
coconut oil. Add buttermilk mixture to flour mixture, and
stir just until dry ingredients are moistened.
7. Drop batter by ⅓ cupfuls onto pan or skillet, and cook
until edges are dry, bubbles form on top, and pancakes
become small. Turn, and cook until golden brown.
8. Stack desired number of pancakes on a plate. Top with
granola, and serve with maple syrup.

Notes: Vegetable oil or canola oil may be used in place of

coconut oil.

To keep the pancakes warm before serving, preheat oven to

250°F (130°C). Place cooked pancakes on a baking sheet in
the oven to keep warm until serving.
hot from the oven

THAT’S AMORE
ITALIAN INGREDIENTS WE LOVE
FOR A TASTE OF ITALY IN YOUR OWN HOME KITCHEN, WE’VE GATHERED SOME OF OUR FAVORITE
ITALIAN BAKING STAPLES, FROM THE BELOVED NUTELLA TO THE EXQUISITE AMARENA CHERRY

FOR CHOCOLATE LOVERS

Many Americans have already embraced this Italian chocolate hazelnut spread from
the Piemonte region with open arms, and it’s really no wonder why. Delightfully rich,
creamy, and chocolaty and accented with toasted, nutty notes of hazelnut, Nutella
makes even the most ordinary bakes extraordinary. If you’re looking for recipes that
let this wonder ingredient shine, be sure to check out our 4 Ways with Chocolate
Hazelnut Spread feature, starting on page 85.
Available at your local grocery store.

THE CHERRY ON TOP

With a jar almost as beautiful as the cherries inside are
delicious, Amarena Fabbri Wild Cherries are an Italian
staple for a reason. Family-made since 1905, Fabbri’s
Amarena Cherries are one of the most iconic products
in Italy. The tart cherries keep their bite, and the
surrounding sweet, aromatic syrup is an experience for
all the senses. Whether used to top or fill your favorite
bakes or incorporated into your favorite cocktail, these
cherries are like an adult version of the maraschino.
FOR TIRAMISÙ AND MORE
Available at amazon.com, $13.19 In 1990, BelGioioso became the
first American company to produce
authentic Italian mascarpone in the
United States. Now the largest US
producer of this specialty cheese,
BelGioioso mascarpone is versatile,
ADD A LITTLE ALMOND
indulgent, and easy to use. With a
Amaretto is a sweet Italian liqueur that originated in Saronno in flavor and texture that sits somewhere
the Lombardy region of Italy. With its flavor typically derived between cream cheese and British
from apricot kernels, bitter almonds, peach stones, or almonds, clotted cream, it’s best known for its
Amoretti Amaretto Extract embodies all the strong almondlike inclusion in tiramisù but adds a slightly
flavors of the liqueur in a nonalcoholic solution. It’s highly sweet, buttery note to cheesecakes,
concentrated, so just a drop will transform your bakes into frostings, and even savory sauces.
aromatic, almond-scented creations.
Available at grocery stores, $11.99
Available at amoretti.com

15 bake from scratch

 LIFE IS BETTER WITH BISCOTTI
Biscotti di Prato are almond cookies, still baked in the same laboratory and 13th-
century family building where Antonio Mattei first created them. Each batch is packed
in its signature blue bag, with just over half a pound of crisp, crunchy cookies packed
inside. In 1858, Antonio Mattei baked his first batch of Biscotti di Prato, and the rest,
as they say, is history. Best enjoyed with coffee, an afternoon tea, or vin santo in the
evening, this treat is Tuscan tradition at its finest.

Available at eataly.com, $10.90

JUST A DRIZZLE
Roi’s Monocultivar Taggiasca Extra Virgin Olive Oil from
Liguria, Italy, is made from the first cold pressing of select
Taggiasca olives, milled with classic stone millstones. Roi’s
processing of the oil is done without heating the olive paste and
without adding hot water to the paste itself or to the oily must,
giving their extra-virgin olive oil a delicate yet robust flavor.
A favorite since 1900, this oil is excellent in both sweet and
savory applications.

Available at amazon.com, $51.49

PURE PISTACHIO POWER

Imported from Bronte, Italy, the Italian
Spreadable Pistachio Cream from Sciara
LIQUID SUNSHINE
is pure, made from only lightly toasted
pistachios. The pistachios are ground Amalfitano Limoncello, made on the Amalfi Coast of Italy, is
so finely that they become a creamy a vibrant taste of summer in every sip. Known for its intense
paste that contains all the intense yellow hue and bright lemon flavor, this liqueur will provide the
flavor of freshly toasted pistachios but perfect citrusy kick in all your summertime bakes. It’s delicious
in a smooth, spreadable cream. It’s a on its own or mixed into your favorite Italian-inspired cocktails,
delicious addition to morning toast and but it absolutely shines when added to baked goods, offering
an excellent filling and flavoring for a beautifully balanced note of sweet, tart, and slightly boozy
cakes, cookies, and more. lemon flavor.

Available at amazon.com, $14.95 Available at dolceterra.com, $40

WHEN LIFE GIVES YOU LEMONS . . . MAKE MARMALADE!

Ask any Sicilian, and they’ll say a lemon isn’t truly a lemon unless it’s grown in Sicily. The
higher acid content of Sicilian lemons makes for a tarter flavor, which in turn helps to create
this fresh and tangy Sicilian Lemon Marmalade from Marchesi di San Giuliano. Particularly
well-suited for baking, this marmalade works excellently as a substitute for lemon curd in pie,
is a delicious addition to lemon bars, and even makes for a beautiful breakfast spread on toast
or fresh scones and biscuits.

Available at amazon.com, $31.55 •

17 bake from scratch

 BETTER TOGETHER!
Complete your collection
NEW
RELEASE! with volumes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5,
and the recently released
volume 6.
Visit bakefromscratch.com/books to order
each edition or SAVE BIG for a limited
time only when you buy the complete
collection.
Follow along through our yearlong collection
of brilliant bakes from your go-to artisan baking
guide. The genius of this collection is that each
recipe shines in a different way while sharing
something new with every reader. From fresh
ways to use unconventional ingredients to favorite
recipes to embrace from across the globe, this
collection represents all the wisdom of the bakers
who came before us as well as the kitchen-tested
techniques that will transform your baking for years
to come.

FROM SCRATCH®
ARTISAN RECIPES
FOR THE HOME BAKER

BRIAN HART HOFFMAN

3 EASY WAYS TO ORDER

Hoffman Media Store
P.O. Box 8510 • Big Sandy, TX 75755

800-361-8059

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baker spotlight

A TASTE OF
NORTHERN
ITALIAN
TRADITION
GIULIA CIAGHI, A READER FROM TRENTO,
ITALY, SHARES HER STORY OF TRAVELING
TO THE US FOR COLLEGE AT 19 WITH HER
GRANDMOTHER’S RECIPES TO COMFORT
AND REMIND HER OF HOME

What brought you to Boston, Italian grandmother would make easy

Massachusetts, alone at 19? What was it comfort food. Easy to replicate and quick
like being away from family? to make. On the other hand, the French
Giulia Ciaghi: I came to Boston for grandmother would make very elaborate What are some of your fondest memories
college. I went to Boston University, where cuisine. Her recipes were always quite of visiting your grandparents growing up?
I got a bachelor of arts and a master of demanding, and they would require a lot of GC: When I was little, during the
science. The first few months were hard, time to make. summertime, my parents had to work,
especially because my English was not so I used to spend it in a little village up
so good and that was my first time being Does your entire family enjoy baking? on the mountain with my [maternal]
alone and away from my family. When did you start baking? grandparents. I remember in the morning
GC: Because my mother never really liked while walking my dog, I used to stop by
What part of Italy did your grandmother cooking nor baking, I started doing it quite a nearby house to pick up freshly made
live in? early in life. I would say that I was probably bread. However, one day, they stopped
GC: My [maternal] grandmother was from about 15 years old when I started baking doing that, so my grandma and I started
Trento, Italy. Trento is a small city up north, seriously. I would bake Christmas cookies, making our own bread, and that is one of
close to the border with Austria on the crostata, and many chocolate cakes. my best memories. Bread is so cheap that
Italian Alps. people would rather buy it than make it,
What are some of your favorite traditional but the village nearby was too far for us,
What was it like growing up with Italian Italian desserts? so making the bread was actually cheaper.
and French influence in the kitchen? GC: I would say that tiramisù is one of Making the dough, seeing it rise, and the
GC: So, my mother’s mom was Italian, my favorites. My grandmother's Torta di fresh smell while baking it were amazing
while my father’s mother was French. mele, or Italian apple cake, was a favorite feelings, but the best one was spreading
They both made amazing food, but they of everyone in my family. It was one of the Nutella on the still-warm bread and having
had very different ways of doing it. The main recipes I would bake when homesick. a big crunchy bite early in the morning.

19 bake from scratch

TORTA DI MELE
Makes 1 (8-inch) cake

Recipe by Giulia Ciaghi

Blooming with apples, this Italian apple

cake is a true celebration of tradition. While
other apple-centric bakes often rely on warm
spices for an added kick, no spices are used in
traditional torta di mele, letting the richness
of the cake and the sweet, fruity bite of fresh
apples shine. Layered with a simple frosting
and apricot jam, this cake offers a taste of
northern Italy in every bite.

Cake:
4 large eggs (200 grams), separated and
room temperature
1¼ cups (250 grams) granulated sugar,
divided
1 teaspoon (4 grams) tightly packed
lemon zest
1 teaspoon (5 grams) fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
1 cup (240 grams) whole milk, room
temperature
⅔ cup (149 grams) olive oil
3¼ cups (406 grams) all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon (15 grams) baking powder
½ teaspoon (3 grams) fine sea salt
30 (⅛-inch-thick) slices (90 grams)
Pink Lady apple (about 1 cup)
1 cup (120 grams) ¼-inch-chopped
Pink Lady apples

Filling:
1½ cups (180 grams) confectioners’ sugar
1½ tablespoons (21 grams) unsalted
butter, softened 3. Clean bowl of stand mixer and whisk batter in remaining pans, gently pressing
1½ tablespoons (22.5 grams) whole milk attachment. Using the whisk attachment, them into surface if needed.
1 cup (260 grams) apricot fruit spread*, beat egg whites at medium-high speed until 7. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in center
divided foamy. Add remaining ¼ cup (50 grams) comes out clean, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool
granulated sugar in a slow, steady stream, in pans for 10 minutes. Remove from pans,
1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray beating until medium-stiff peaks form. and let cool completely on wire racks.
3 (8-inch) round cake pans with baking 4. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, 8. For filling: In a medium bowl, using a
spray with flour. Line bottom of pans with baking powder, and salt. silicone spatula, stir together confectioners’
parchment paper. 5. Fold one-third of egg white mixture into sugar and butter until combined. Add milk;
2. For cake: In the bowl of a stand mixer egg yolk mixture. Gradually sift and fold stir until smooth and spreadable. Spoon into
fitted with the whisk attachment, beat half of flour mixture into egg yolk mixture a pastry bag; cut a ½-inch opening in tip.
egg yolks at medium speed until frothy. just until combined. Repeat procedure Pipe a ½-inch-tall border around edges of
With mixer on medium-low speed, add with one-third of egg white mixture and cake layers with chopped apples; divide fruit
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar in a remaining flour mixture. Fold in remaining spread evenly between layers, spreading
slow, steady stream, beating until combined. egg white mixture just until combined and within piped borders. Refrigerate filled
Increase mixer speed to medium, and beat no white spots remain. layers for 30 minutes.
until light and fluffy, about 4 minutes. Beat 6. Divide batter among prepared pans 9. Stack chilled layers on a serving plate; top
in lemon zest and juice and vanilla. With (about 398 grams each); gently smooth with final layer, rose design side up.
mixer on medium speed, gradually add milk into an even layer. Arrange apple slices in a
and oil, beating until combined. Transfer rose-like pattern on top of batter in 1 pan. *We used Bonne Maman Intense Apricot Fruit
mixture to a large bowl. Divide and scatter chopped apples over Spread. •
july | august 2022 20
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ITALIAN
FLOURS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE

FOOD STYLING BY
KATIE MOON DICKERSON
STYLING BY LILY SIMPSON
 FROM SEMOLINA TO CHESTNUT,
THESE ARE THE DEFINING FLOURS
OF THE ITALIAN BAKER’S PANTRY
HAZELNUT
BY KYLE GRACE MILLS

I
talians have an ancient baking tradition and, thus, an
ancient relationship with flour. Throughout Italy’s
20 regions, various grains, nuts, and beans 00
have become the basis for their flours, not just the
quintessential wheat. These alternative flours, like
chestnut flour and chickpea flour, were created out of
rustic necessity, offering nutrients during famines and
hard times. We’re taking a look at each signature Italian
grain, its uses, and what makes it an Italian icon, from the
popular 00 flour to the golden-hued semolina flour.
CHICKPEA
00 FLOUR: One of the defining differences between
American and European flours are their classification
systems. In the United States, we divide flours by
their protein level, with bread flour and whole wheat
flour often representing the highest protein and cake
and pastry flour standing in for the lower end of the
spectrum. In places like Italy and Germany, the flour is
categorized by how finely ground it is and the amount of CHESTNUT
germ and bran remaining in the flour. At the top end of
this spectrum is type 2, which most closely resembles a
stone-ground whole wheat flour, and at the bottom is 00
flour, a superfine flour that has little to no germ. It can
be used for several baking purposes, including bread (see
Genoese Focaccia on page 75), pizza, cakes (see Torta
Mimosa on page 55), and cookies (see Occhi di Bue on
page 61). All-purpose flour and 00 flour have similarities
in their flexibility, but the protein levels vary enough
that the chewiness is much more significant with an all- SEMOLINA
purpose flour. This has to do with American all-purpose
flour being made of a blend of soft and hard wheat, while
00 flour relies on just durum wheat. While developing
this issue, we used both King Arthur ‘00’ Pizza Flour and
Anna Napoletana Tipo “00” Extra Fine Flour and found
both to work wonderfully with our Italian recipes while
also being readily available at major grocery stores. FARRO

july | august 2022 24

SEMOLINA FLOUR: High in gluten and fantastically elastic, hazelnut flour is a celebrated staple ingredient for Italian bakers.
semolina flour is made from durum wheat. Often used in pasta- The Piemonte region is particularly famous for its hazelnuts and
making, semolina has a golden hue that comes from carotenoids, can claim a number of classic recipes that use hazelnut flour, like
a compound that gives carrots and apricots their signature color. baci di dama (see page 100) and torta di nocciole (hazelnut cake).
Semolina is famous for giving dough a superior chew and texture Naturally gluten-free, recipes that use only hazelnut flour will
while also imbuing the dough with a slightly sweet, rich flavor and have a crumbly, dense texture, yielding results like recipes that
an appealing buttery color. It comes in a variety of textures, from use only almond flour. Also like almond flour, the nutrient-rich
coarse to fine, but the most common is medium-grind. While it hazelnut flour is prone to spoil faster than other flours, so it’s best
may seem better-suited for the savory pursuits of pizza and pasta, to store it in the freezer if you’re not using it immediately. In a
semolina flour has a long history as a sweet ingredient in Italian pinch, you can make your own hazelnut flour with a coffee grinder
baking. In our torta feature, we highlight Torta di Semolino, which or food processor, but for clean uniformity, we like to use Bob’s
looks like a creamy cheesecake but still has the slightly toothsome Red Mill Hazelnut Flour.
texture from the semolina.
CHESTNUT FLOUR: Though considered an exotic and artisan
HAZELNUT FLOUR: Italy is the most prolific producer of ingredient in the States, chestnut flour has a historical reputation
hazelnuts on the European continent, so it’s unsurprising that as a famine flour, one used by the those living in poverty to help
create nourishing cakes and flatbreads when traditional flour was
prohibitively expensive. In Italy, chestnut flour led to some of the
most delicious and humble of baked goods, like Tuscan castagnaccio,
a chestnut flour cake usually lightly flavored with raisins, herbs,
and pine nuts. Alternately smoky and sweet, the delicate flavor of
chestnut flour is best captured by brands that have fresh access to
them, like local Italian brands. As it’s a gluten-free flour, chestnut
flour-based baked goods bake up relatively flat and thin.
CHICKPEA FLOUR: Chickpea flour‚ also known as garbanzo
bean flour, gram flour, and cici bean flour‚ has a subtly sweet and BAKE WITH ITALIAN FLOURS
creamy taste. Like chestnut flour, it offered Italians an inexpensive In this issue, don’t miss:
flour alternative to use when pulling together nutritious flatbreads. Torta di Semolino, page 54
In areas of the Mediterranean, it is often used to make a farinata Farro and Ricotta Tart, page 60
(see page 77), a loose-battered dough that gets cooked in a Pan di Ramerino, page 64
wide-based, piping-hot skillet to thin and crispy perfection. It’s a
Farinata, page 77
classic street food in Liguria and Toscana and must be eaten calda
calda (hot, hot). For our testing purposes, we used Bob’s Red Mill
Chickpea Flour.

FARRO FLOUR: It could be said that farro helped fuel the

Roman empire’s incredible expansion. A hearty grain that grew in
central and northern Italy, farro was treated much like rice, adding
nutrition to soups, salads, and, yes, desserts. Giulia Scarpaleggia’s
Farro and Ricotta Tart (page 60) makes use of both farro and
farro flour. As a flour, farro imparts a lightly nutty flavor to your
baked goods. Though spelt flour is often recommended as a dupe
for farro flour, we recommend you use farro flour when called for
(we used Pereg Farro Flour). Spelt can be more protein-heavy
than farro flour, making for a tougher baked good.
 ADVERTISING

*)*²:=;<1+7
A classic of Neapolitan cuisine, the babà rustico is a savory yeasted bread often baked in a ring mold.
We elevated the dough with a boost of Platinum® Yeast from Red Star® while maintaining the traditional
taste by including plenty of prosciutto, salami, and provolone cheese.
Makes 1 (10-cup) loaf 1. In a medium bowl, whisk together more evenly.) Cover and let stand at room
1½ cups (191 grams) flour, Parmesan, temperature for 10 minutes.
2½ cups (318 grams) bread flour, divided parsley, salt, and pepper. 3. Spray a 10-cup Bundt pan with baking
½ cup (48 grams) freshly grated 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk spray with flour. Using a bowl scraper or
Parmesan cheese together warm milk, yeast, and sugar spatula, spoon dough in small amounts
3 tablespoons (12 grams) chopped fresh by hand. Let stand until foamy, about evenly into prepared pan. Using wet
parsley 5 minutes. Add remaining 1 cup (127 grams) fingers, evenly press dough into pan, even
2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt flour; using the paddle attachment, beat at and flat. Tap pan on a kitchen towel-lined
¼ teaspoon ground black pepper low speed until smooth and well combined, counter a few times. Cover and let rise in a
1 cup (240 grams) warm whole milk about 1 minute. Add oil and eggs, and warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until
(110°F/43°C to 115°F/46°C) beat until well combined. With mixer on dough is puffed and about 1 inch from top
1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) low speed, gradually add flour mixture, of pan, 30 to 45 minutes.
Platinum Yeast beating until well combined and stopping to 4. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
1 teaspoon (4 grams) granulated sugar scrape sides of bowl. Increase mixer speed 5. Bake until golden and an instant-read
4½ tablespoons (63 grams) neutral oil to medium-high, and beat until dough is thermometer inserted in center registers
2 large eggs (100 grams), room smooth, shiny, and elastic, 8 to 10 minutes. 190°F (88°C) to 200°F (93°C), 25 to
temperature (Dough will still stick to sides and bottom 30 minutes. Let cool in pan for 5 minutes.
¾ cup (130 grams) 3⁄8-inch-cubed sharp of bowl.) Reduce mixer speed to low, Invert bread onto a wire rack, and let
provolone cheese and gradually add provolone, salami, and cool for at least 15 minutes. Garnish
½ cup (80 grams) chopped salami Napoli prosciutto cotto until combined. (If you do with parsley, if desired. Serve warm or
½ cup (90 grams) chopped prosciutto not feel like the mix-ins are well distributed at room temperature. Best served same
cotto by the mixer, you can dip your hand in day. (Cover and refrigerate any remaining
Garnish: chopped fresh parsley water, as needed, and fold and squeeze bread; reheat before eating again.)
the dough to help distribute the mix-ins
back of the box

PAN DI SPAGNA
IN ITALY, A CLASSIC SPONGE RECEIVES A LITTLE SWEET LIFT
FROM VANILLA-FLAVORED BAKING POWDER

A
giant of the Italian pastry tradition, pan di Spagna a leavening agent that could still enhance the cake’s flavor: Lievito
translates literally to “Spanish bread” but is neither Vaniglinato Bertolini. Essentially a vanilla-flavored baking powder,
Spanish nor bread. Similar to a genoise or Genovese cake, this chemical leaven has been a staple pantry ingredient for
pan di Spagna is a delicate, fluffy sponge cake that harnesses Italians for more than 100 hundred years. In a Lievito Bertolini
the power of egg foam, both aerated meringue and ribboned advertising booklet that was part children’s baking story and part
egg yolks. And while this cake has always been a national treasure, recipe packet was a classic pan di Spagna recipe supercharged
a clever marketing scheme introduced another Italian icon into with vanilla. Since then, many home recipes for pan di Spagna
the equation. Though the pan di Spagna needs no extra leavening have called for either Lievito Vaniglinato Bertolini or Paneangeli,
power thanks to the egg foam in the batter, Lievito Bertolini had another vanilla-flavored baking powder popular in Italy.
PISTACHIO PAN DI SPAGNA procedure with one-third of egg white 1. In a small microwave-safe bowl, whisk
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake mixture and remaining flour mixture. Fold together sugar and 2 tablespoons
in pistachio mixture and remaining egg (30 grams) water. Heat on high in
Incorporating nutty pistachios, floral orange white mixture just until combined and no 10-second intervals, stirring between each,
blossom, and creamy ricotta into the classic white spots remain. (Do not overmix.) Pour until sugar dissolves. Stir in orange blossom
sponge cake formula, our summery take on batter into prepared pan; using a small, water. Let cool completely before using.
pan di Spagna is a sweet ode to an Italian offset spatula, spread into an even layer
standard. using as few strokes as possible. (Pan will RICOTTA WHIPPED CREAM
be very full, but batter will not overflowl.) Makes about 4 cups
⅓ cup (52 grams) shelled pistachios 6. Bake until golden, top springs back
2 tablespoons (16 grams) cornstarch when pressed in center, and a wooden pick 2 ounces (57 grams) cream cheese,
4 large eggs (200 grams), separated and inserted in center comes out clean, 30 to softened
room temperature 35 minutes. Let cool in pan for 10 minutes. ¼ cup (57 grams) double-cream ricotta
¼ cup (60 grams) boiling water (see Run a butter knife around edge of cake to cheese (see Note)
Note) loosen, if necessary; remove from pan, and 1 teaspoon (5 grams) orange blossom
¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar, let cool completely on a wire rack. water
divided 7. Place cooled cake on a serving plate. ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) vanilla extract Prick top several times with a wooden pick; ¾ cup (90 grams) confectioners’ sugar
1 teaspoon (4 grams) almond extract brush top evenly with Orange Blossom 1⅓ cups (320 grams) cold heavy whipping
¾ cup (100 grams) 00 flour* Simple Syrup. Spoon and spread Ricotta cream
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking powder Whipped Cream on top. Garnish with
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt chopped pistachios, if desired. Refrigerate 1. In a medium bowl, stir cream cheese
Orange Blossom Simple Syrup (recipe for 40 minutes before serving. until smooth. Add ricotta, orange blossom
follows) water, and salt; stir until combined.
Ricotta Whipped Cream (recipe follows) *We used Anna Napoletana Unbleached Tipo Add confectioners’ sugar, and stir until
Garnish: chopped pistachios “00” Extra Fine Flour. Measuring by gram combined; whisk until smooth. (Mixture
weight is the best way to ensure consistent will be loose but will thicken as the whipped
1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Butter results. If measuring by volume, be sure to cream is added.)
a 9-inch round cake pan. Line bottom of fluff flour beforehand and use the spoon and 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
pan with parchment paper. level method. the whisk attachment, beat cold cream at
2. In the work bowl of a food processor, medium-high speed until stiff peaks form.
combine pistachios and cornstarch; pulse Note: For best accuracy, be sure to measure Fold whipped cream into ricotta mixture in
until pistachios are finely ground, stopping out already-boiling water for use in this recipe. three additions. Use immediately.
to scrape sides of bowl.
3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with ORANGE BLOSSOM SIMPLE SYRUP Note: We used double-cream ricotta, which
the whisk attachment, beat egg yolks at Makes about 3 tablespoons does not include whey among its ingredients;
medium speed; add ¼ cup (60 grams) this results in a thicker mixture. The recipe will
boiling water in a slow, steady stream, 2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated still work with regular whole-milk ricotta (with
beating until frothy. Gradually beat in ½ cup sugar whey) but expect it to be looser in consistency.
(100 grams) sugar and extracts. Increase 2 tablespoons (30 grams) water
mixer speed to medium-high; beat until ¼ teaspoon (1.25 grams)
pale yellow and ribbon-consistency, about orange blossom water
5 minutes. Transfer mixture to a large bowl.
4. Clean bowl of stand mixer and whisk
attachment. Using the whisk attachment,
beat egg whites at medium-high speed
until foamy. With mixer on medium-high
speed, add remaining ¼ cup (50 grams)
sugar in a slow, steady stream, beating until
stiff peaks form.
5. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour,
baking powder, and salt. Fold one-third of
egg white mixture into egg yolk
mixture. Gradually sift and
fold half of flour mixture
into egg yolk mixture just
until combined. Repeat
bakery pro²le
 A FORNO IN
FLORENCE
DISCOVER THE FLORENTINE GEM, S.FORNO,
WHERE OLD-WORLD CHARM IS THE ORDER OF THE DAY
BY GIULIA SCARPALEGGIA / PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANN PAI

S
.forno is a cozy bakery with vintage, bohemian vibes that’s located in Oltrarno, one of the most authentic
neighborhoods of Firenze (Florence), Italy, not far from the Arno River. It’s been a forno, a neighborhood
bakery, for more than 100 years. Angelo, a local baker, baked bread there every morning for 40 years until
2014, when he sold the bakery to Il Santo Bevitore, a restaurant a couple of minutes away from the bakery, for
which he was already baking bread. It was Angelo who passed down his skills to Rose Hélène Govoni, who’s now the
head baker at S.forno.

july | august 2022 32

 From the outside, S.forno is still the same shop,
a humble bakery whose entrance door is crowned
by the original sign, panificio, dating back to the
1970s. Inside, they kept the original cotto tiles
and vaulted ceilings and furnished the bakery with
vintage elements: a butcher’s counter, a goldsmith’s
octagonal table, bookshelves and stools with a patina
of age, and a school blackboard where you can read
the daily specials.

Just behind the counter, the bread loaves are neatly

arranged in baskets and on shelves, their shades and
textures a pleasure for the eye. Here, you can find
the flagship product of Tuscan gastronomy, pane
sciocco, a white, crusty country loaf traditionally
baked without salt, a bread that marries the local
cheese and charcuterie beautifully. Along with
Tuscan bread, S.forno offers a wide range of loaves,
from whole wheat bread and rye flour-and-cumin
loaves to Pugliese semolina bread, seeded buns, and
baguettes. There’s also a Florentine classic, pan di
ramerino, a soft, sticky rosemary bun studded with
raisins, traditionally associated with Easter but now
a fixture of the bakery. It makes for a great panino
when stuffed with mortadella, Galaverna del Mugello
(a local bloomy-rind cow cheese), and saba (a cooked,
syrupy condiment made from grape must).

If you are more of a pizza person, S.forno will tempt

you with focaccia, Tuscan schiacciata doused in extra-
virgin olive oil, pizza with several seasonal toppings
(if you’re there in late summer, you’ll be lucky to try
the fig and prosciutto pizza), and cecina, a thin, savory
chickpea pancake native to the Tuscan coast that’s
naturally gluten-free and vegan.

33 bake from scratch

GLOSSARIO | Forno: Directly
translated, forno means “oven.” Anything
cooked “al forno” was baked in an oven.

july | august 2022 34

Want to sit for breakfast? Be quick to snag a barstool
or one of the few tables by the front door. Order
coffee and one of the bakery’s traditional options
designed to make you feel at home: pane, burro, e
marmellata (bread, butter, and jam, a kids’ favorite),
pane e cioccolata (bread with chocolate), granola
with fresh fruit and yogurt (from the local Mugello
farm Il Palagiaccio), croissants, pain au chocolat, and
crostata. Pop in for lunch and you’ll find quiches
bursting with vegetables, croque monsieur, crostoni
with cheese and local charcuterie, panini made to
order, and soups.

And let’s not forget the sweet side of S.forno, which

takes both an international and a very traditional
approach. On one side, you can have a taste of
tarte Tatin, apple cakes, fruit pies, frangipane tarts,
cinnamon and cardamom buns, cheesecakes and
chiffon cakes, brownies, and cookies. On the other,
S.forno offers a proper selection of traditional treats:
torta della nonna, a pastry cream tart bejeweled with
almonds; castagnaccio, a chestnut flour cake made
with raisins and pine nuts; scarpaccia di Viareggio,
a sweet basil and zucchini cake from the northern
coast of Tuscany; rice pudding tartlets (my favorite
as a child); grape schiacciata; and biscotti.

S.forno is also a proximity or gourmet food store,

where you can stock up on high-quality pasta, flour,
bread crumbs (made in-house from the bakery’s
unsold bread for a zero-waste approach), cheese,
eggs, canned San Marzano tomatoes, apple juice
from Trentino, and artisanal jams and preserves.

After enjoying the lovely baked goods at S.forno,

plan to spend time wandering the streets of this area,
where artisan workshops still share space alongside
local stores, cafés, antiques shops, wine bars, and
family-run trattorias. It’s the perfect place to get
lost and discover Tuscan makers and flavors.

GO THERE:
S.FORNO
Via di Santa Monaca, 3R, Firenze
ilsantobevitore.com

july | august 2022 36

 bread box
powered by Red Star® Yeast

SWEET AND
SWIRLED
ITALIAN BREADS
INTRODUCING TWO TRADITIONAL BREADS FROM NORTHERN ITALY, ONE FEATURING A
SPIRAL OF LEMONY PASTRY CREAM ATOP RICH BRIOCHE BUNS, THE OTHER A MESMERIZING
SWIRL OF TENDER DOUGH FILLED WITH AN ARRAY OF ITALIAN FAVORITES, INCLUDING
AMARETTI COOKIES, MARSALA WINE, AND TOASTED HAZELNUTS

Venetian Brioche Buns

page 40
 Gubana
page 39

july | august 2022 38

GUBANA 1. In a small bowl, stir together warm milk, Tuck pinched ends under. Cover and let rise
Makes 1 loaf ⅓ cup (80 grams) warm water, 1 teaspoon in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C)
(4 grams) sugar, and yeast. Let stand until until puffed, 15 to 20 minutes.
Thought to originally hail from the foamy, about 5 minutes. 7. In a small bowl, lightly whisk remaining
northeastern corner of Italy bordering Slovenia, 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with 1 egg (50 grams). Using a pastry brush,
this snail shell-shaped traditional holiday treat the paddle attachment, combine 3 cups brush egg on top and sides of dough.
is a true celebration of all things Italian. At (375 grams) flour, salt, orange zest, and 8. Bake until golden brown and an instant-
first glance, it looks like any other gorgeously remaining 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons read thermometer inserted in center
golden, swirled bread, but inside, it nearly (32 grams) sugar. Add yeast mixture, registers 190°F (88°C), 40 to 50 minutes,
bursts with a filling of nuts, amaretti cookies, melted butter, 1 egg (50 grams), and vanilla. loosely covering with foil halfway through
and raisins, all spiked with zesty orange, Beat at low speed until well combined; baking to prevent excess browning. (See
cinnamon, chocolaty notes of cocoa, and a scrape sides of bowl. Note.) Let cool in pan for 5 minutes.
splash of marsala wine. Talk about decadent! 3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. Carefully remove from pan, and let cool
Add ½ cup (63 grams) flour, and beat at slightly on a wire rack. Serve warm or at
½ cup (120 grams) warm whole milk low speed until a smooth, soft, somewhat room temperature.
(110°F/43°C to 115°F/46°C) tacky dough forms, 8 to 10 minutes,
⅓ cup (80 grams) warm water stopping to scrape sides of bowl and *We used Platinum Yeast® from Red Star®.
(110°F/43°C to 115°F/46°C) dough hook; add up to remaining ¼ cup
3 tablespoons (36 grams) granulated (31 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon (8 grams) Note: This bread may sometimes split slightly
sugar, divided at a time, if dough is too sticky. Turn out as it bakes. That is totally OK and will not
1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) dough onto a lightly floured surface, and impact how it bakes or the quality of the final
instant yeast* shape into a smooth round. product.
3½ to 3¾ cups (438 to 469 grams) 4. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough in
all-purpose flour, divided bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let GUBANA FILLING
2½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) kosher salt rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) Makes about 1½ cups
1 teaspoon (2 grams) tightly packed until doubled in size, 30 to 45 minutes.
orange zest 5. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray a ½ cup (71 grams) peeled toasted
¼ cup (57 grams) unsalted butter, 9-inch springform pan with cooking spray. hazelnuts
melted and cooled slightly 6. Punch down dough. Cover and let stand ½ cup (57 grams) toasted walnut halves
2 large eggs (100 grams), room for 5 to 10 minutes. Turn out dough onto a 9 small amaretti cookies (40 grams)
temperature and divided lightly floured surface, and roll into a 24x10- ½ cup (80 grams) packed golden raisins
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract inch rectangle. Using a small offset spatula, 1 tablespoon (5 grams) Dutch process
Gubana Filling (recipe follows) spread Gubana Filling onto dough, leaving cocoa powder
a ½-inch border on all sides. Starting with ½ teaspoon (1 gram) ground cinnamon
one long side, roll up dough, jelly roll style; ¼ teaspoon tightly packed orange zest
pinch seam and ends to seal. Gently lift log ⅓ cup (80 grams) marsala wine
at each end, and stretch to 28 inches long 3 tablespoons (63 grams) honey
and even thickness. Lift log, and place, seam ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
side down, in a spiral starting from edge of 1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten
pan and ending in center. (It is important ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract
that the spiral is not tight and has room to
grow as it rises and bakes. Make sure spiral 1. In the work bowl of food processor,
is evenly spaced and ends in center of pan.) process hazelnuts and walnuts until ground
and uniform in size, 8 to 10 pulses. Add
cookies; pulse until cookies are same size
as nuts, 4 to 5 pulses. Add raisins, cocoa,
cinnamon, and orange zest; pulse until
raisins are combined and small clumps start
to form.
2. In a medium saucepan, stir together
wine, honey, and salt, and bring to a boil
over medium heat. Stir in nut mixture.
Add egg, and cook, stirring constantly,
until glossy and slightly thickened and an
instant-read thermometer registers 175°F
(79°C), about 2 minutes. Pour mixture
into a medium bowl, and stir in vanilla. Let
cool completely before using.
VENETIAN BRIOCHE BUNS
Makes 12 buns

These soft, pillowy rolls are a favorite in the

cafés and pasticcerias of Italy for a reason.
Believed to originate in Venice, Italy, the rolls
can be found with a variety of toppings and
fillings, from almond paste to jam. We opted
for a classic buttery, lemon-scented dough
topped with a swirl of creamy Italian Lemon
Pastry Cream. Finished with a sprinkle of
confectioners’ sugar and crunchy pearl sugar,
these delicately sweet buns are a perfect
addition to breakfast and dessert tables alike.

½ cup (120 grams) warm whole milk

(110°F/43°C to 115°F/46°C) elastic dough forms, 10 to 12 minutes. Turn *We used Platinum Yeast® from Red Star®.
3 tablespoons (36 grams) granulated out dough onto a lightly floured surface,
sugar, divided and knead 5 to 8 times. Shape dough into a ITALIAN LEMON PASTRY CREAM
1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) smooth round. Makes about 1⅓ cups
instant yeast* 4. Lightly oil a large bowl. Place dough
31⁄4 to 31⁄2 cups (406 to 437 grams) in bowl, turning to grease top. Cover 1¼ cups (300 grams) whole milk
all-purpose flour, divided and let rise in a warm, draft-free place ¼ cup (50 grams) plus 4 teaspoons
2½ teaspoons (7.5 grams) kosher salt (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, (16 grams) granulated sugar, divided
1 teaspoon (3 grams) tightly packed 45 minutes to 1 hour. 1½ teaspoons (4 grams) tightly packed
lemon zest 5. Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with lemon zest
3 large eggs (150 grams), room parchment paper. ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
temperature and lightly beaten 6. Lightly punch down dough. Cover and 3 large egg yolks (57 grams), room
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, room let stand for 5 minutes. Turn out dough temperature
temperature onto a lightly floured surface, and divide 2 tablespoons (16 grams) cornstarch
Italian Lemon Pastry Cream (recipe into 12 portions (about 69 grams each). 1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter,
follows) Roll each portion into a smooth round. cubed
2 tablespoons (17 grams) confectioners’ Working with one at a time, press or roll
sugar flat into a 3-inch disk. (Keep remaining 1. In a medium saucepan, heat milk, ¼ cup
2 tablespoons (24 grams) pearl sugar dough covered to prevent it from drying (50 grams) sugar, lemon zest, and salt over
out.) Place at least 2 inches apart on medium heat, stirring occasionally, until
1. In a small bowl, stir together warm milk, prepared pans. Cover and let rise in a steaming. (Do not boil.)
1 teaspoon (4 grams) granulated sugar, and warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together
yeast. Let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. puffed, 25 to 35 minutes. egg yolks, cornstarch, and remaining
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk 7. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). 4 teaspoons (16 grams) sugar. Pour
together 2 cups (250 grams) flour, salt, 8. Place Italian Lemon Pastry Cream in a hot milk mixture into egg yolk mixture,
lemon zest, and remaining 2 tablespoons pastry bag fitted with a ¼-inch round piping whisking constantly. Return mixture to
plus 2 teaspoons (32 grams) sugar. Add tip (Ateco #802). Pipe pastry cream in a saucepan, and cook, whisking constantly,
warm milk mixture and eggs; using the spiral on each bun, starting at center and until mixture starts to boil. (Mixture will
paddle attachment, beat at low speed until spacing swirls within spiral about ¼ inch thicken.) Cook, whisking constantly, until
a smooth dough forms, about 1 minute. apart. (Reserve any remaining pastry cream cornstarch flavor has cooked out, about
With mixer on low speed, gradually add to serve with buns.) Using a fine-mesh sieve, 1 minute.
1¼ cups (156 grams) flour, beating until a dust tops with confectioners’ sugar; sprinkle 3. Remove from heat, and strain through a
shaggy dough forms; scrape sides of bowl. with pearl sugar. fine-mesh sieve into a medium heatproof
3. Switch to the dough hook attachment. 9. Bake until golden brown and an instant- bowl. Stir in butter until completely
Beat at low speed until dough becomes read thermometer inserted in center combined. Cover with plastic wrap,
smooth, elastic, and slightly tacky, about registers at least 190°F (88°C), 20 to pressing wrap directly onto surface of
12 minutes; add up to remaining ¼ cup 25 minutes. Let cool on pans for pastry cream to prevent a skin from
(31 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon (8 grams) at 10 minutes. Remove from pans, and serve forming. Refrigerate until completely
a time, if dough is too sticky. Add butter, warm, or let cool completely on wire rack. cooled. Whisk smooth before using.
1 tablespoon (14 grams) at a time, beating
until combined after each addition (7 to Looking for more spectacular bread recipes? Head to bakefromscratch.com
8 minutes total). Beat until a smooth, and check out our Bread Box collection! •

july | august 2022 40

TIRAMISÙ
LEARN TO RECREATE THE ULTIMATE ITALIAN
DESSERT IN YOUR HOME KITCHEN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY STEPHANIE WELBOURNE STEELE

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BYLAURA CRANDALL
FOOD STYLING BY KATIE MOON DICKERSON
STYLING BY MARY BETH JONES

D
igging a spoon into the cocoa-dusted
surface of tiramisù is like excavating the
foundations of a ruin. Each unearthed
layer reveals a new piece of the historical narrative.
There’s Italian sponge cake in the form of
ladyfingers, marsala-spiked zabaglione folded into
the creamy filling, and bold, buzzy espresso cutting
through the delicate sweetness of it all. These
delectable elements combine to paint an enduring
portrait of a people, place, and culture.

A classic that weaves together several Italian

techniques, tiramisù offers the perfect introduction
to Italian baking. First, we’ll walk you through baking
ladyfingers (also called savoiardi), demystifying the
method behind the Italian sponge cake. Then we’ll
introduce you to the art of making zabaglione, a
slightly thickened custard married with marsala
wine. Finally, we’ll show you the art of layering the
many pieces to form one perfect whole.

july | august 2022 42

 TIRAMISÙ
Makes 12 servings 8. Before serving, using a fine-mesh sieve, dust top with
cocoa. Using a vegetable peeler, grate chocolate, and sprinkle
An intoxicating blend of espresso, mascarpone-lightened custard on top of cocoa powder. Serve immediately.
cream, and soft ladyfingers, the tiramisù remains an enduring
classic of Italian cuisine for a reason. This recipe keeps all the sweet *We used BelGioioso Mascarpone Cheese.
traditions in place, while simplifying the technique behind them.
Note: If you are not using pasteurized eggs or if you are worried
⅔ cup (160 grams) freshly brewed espresso about the eggs not being fully cooked, place egg yolks and sugar
1¼ cups (250 grams) plus 1½ tablespoons (18 grams) in the top of a double boiler. Cook over simmering water, whisking
granulated sugar, divided frequently, until an instant-read thermometer registers 158°F
⅓ cup (80 grams) sweet marsala wine (70°C). Mixture will be thick enough without using the mixer
2 cups (480 grams) cold heavy whipping cream since it is whisked longer over the heat. Let cool for 10 to
2 teaspoons (8 grams) vanilla extract 15 minutes before using.
6 large pasteurized egg yolks (112 grams)
2 (8-ounce) containers (452 grams) cold mascarpone cheese* LADYFINGERS
Ladyfingers (recipe follows) Makes about 45 ladyfingers
2 tablespoons (10 grams) Dutch process cocoa powder
2 ounces (57 grams) 70% cacao bittersweet chocolate ⅔ cup (83 grams) unbleached cake flour
2½tablespoons (20 grams) cornstarch
1. In a medium bowl, place espresso; stir in 1½ tablespoons 4 large eggs (200 grams), separated and room temperature
(18 grams) sugar until dissolved. Stir in wine. ½ cup (100 grams) plus 2 tablespoons (24 grams)
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk granulated sugar, divided
attachment, beat cold cream and vanilla, starting at lowest ½ teaspoon (2 grams) vanilla extract
speed and gradually increasing mixer speed to medium-high, 2 tablespoons (14 grams) confectioners’ sugar
until stiff peaks form, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a medium
bowl; cover and refrigerate until ready to use. 1. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line 2 baking pans with
3. Clean bowl of stand mixer and whisk attachment. parchment paper.
4. In the heatproof bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together 2. In a small bowl, sift together flour and cornstarch.
egg yolks and remaining 1¼ cups (250 grams) sugar by hand. 3. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment,
Place bowl over a saucepan of simmering water; do not let beat egg whites at medium speed until foamy, about 30 seconds.
the bottom of the bowl touch the water. Cook, whisking With mixer on medium speed, add ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated
frequently, until an instant-read thermometer registers at sugar in a slow, steady stream, beating until stiff peaks form,
least 110°F (43°C). (See Note.) 1½ to 2 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl.
5. Carefully return bowl to stand mixer. Using the whisk 4. Clean bowl of stand mixer and whisk attachment. Using
attachment, beat at medium-high speed until thick and the whisk attachment, beat egg yolks and ¼ cup (50 grams)
ribbon-consistency, 2 to 3 minutes. (Mixture will still have granulated sugar at medium-high speed until pale yellow and
texture from the sugar.) Let cool for 5 to 10 minutes. thick, about 2 minutes. Using a balloon whisk, fold half of
6. In another medium bowl, place mascarpone, and work with a egg white mixture and vanilla into egg yolk mixture just until
spatula until softened, smooth, and creamy. Fold mascarpone combined; fold in remaining egg white mixture. Fold in sifted
into egg yolk mixture in two additions just until combined. Fold flour mixture in 2 additions just until combined.
in whipped cream in two additions just until combined. 5. Working in batches if necessary, place batter in a large
7. Quickly dip half of Ladyfingers in espresso mixture. (Do pastry bag fitted with a 7⁄16-inch round piping tip (Ateco
not let it soak.) Place in bottom of a 13x9-inch baking dish in #805). Pipe 3-inch-long lines at least 1 inch apart on prepared
a single layer, with long sides of Ladyfingers going along long pans. (Final dimensions of Ladyfingers should be 3x1 inches.)
sides of pan. (Trim or cut Ladyfingers, if needed, to make sure 6. In a small bowl, whisk together confectioners’ sugar and
bottom of pan is fully covered.) Spoon half of mascarpone remaining 2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated sugar. Using
mixture (about 4 cups or 630 grams) on top of dipped a fine-mesh sieve, lightly dust piped batter with sugars.
Ladyfingers, and spread into an even layer. Dip remaining 7. Bake* for 6 minutes. Rotate pans between racks, and bake
Ladyfingers in espresso mixture, and place on top of until lightly golden brown and dry, 4 to 6 minutes more. Let
mascarpone mixture in pan. Top with remaining mascarpone cool completely. Best used within 24 hours.
mixture, smoothing into an even layer. Cover and refrigerate
for 24 hours for best flavor and texture. *This is a sponge and will deflate as it sits. You cannot bake one
pan at a time.

july | august 2022 44

 From A to Zabaglione
How to make your zabaglione-, whipped cream-, and mascarpone-based filling
1. In the heatproof bowl of a stand mixer, whisk
together egg yolks and remaining 1¼ cups
(250 grams) sugar by hand. Place bowl over a
saucepan of simmering water; do not let the
bottom of the bowl touch the water. Cook,
whisking frequently, until an instant-read
thermometer registers at least 110°F (43°C).
We used the bain-marie method, a gentle
heating of egg yolks and sugar over simmering
water, to help the eggs whip up in dramatic
fashion. Heating the yolks to just 110°F (43°C)
allows proteins to denature, or unfold, and sets
up the mixture to hold air more readily. Heating
the sugar also means it will dissolve more easily
into the yolks.
2. Carefully return bowl to stand mixer. Using
1.
the whisk attachment, beat at medium-high
speed until thick and ribbon-consistency, 2 to
3 minutes. (Mixture will still have texture from
the sugar.) “Ribbon-consistency” is a common
term used to describe the appearance of a
batter or mixture. The batter, when falling from
the whisk attachment, creates a luxuriously
thick ribbon. As the batter from the whisk
settles on top of the batter in the bowl, the
edges of the “ribbon” should remain clearly
defined on the surface for a few moments
before slowly disappearing. This ribbon stage
tells us that we have whipped enough air into
the batter to leaven the cake and are ready to
move on to the next step.
3. In another medium bowl, place mascarpone,
2.
and work with a spatula until softened,
smooth, and creamy. Fold mascarpone into
egg yolk mixture in two additions just until
combined. Mascarpone, like cream cheese, is
hard to incorporate into a mixture when added
in as one cold block. It can make your filling
take on a curdled appearance. So, for smooth
incorporation, work the mascarpone in a
separate bowl until it becomes more pliable.
4. Fold in whipped cream in two additions
just until combined. By the end of folding in
your mascarpone and your whipped cream,
the golden color of the custard should have
mellowed out into a pale yellow. Try not to
over-incorporate your cream here, as part of
the filling’s fluffy body comes from the aerated
3. 4.
whipped cream.

45 bake from scratch

Savoiardi Savvy
Learn the building blocks of making ladyfingers, a variation on the classic sponge

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with 2. Clean bowl of stand mixer and whisk 3. Using a balloon whisk, fold half of
the whisk attachment, beat egg whites attachment. Using the whisk attachment, egg white mixture and vanilla into egg
at medium speed until foamy, about beat egg yolks and ¼ cup (50 grams) yolk mixture just until combined; fold in
30 seconds. With mixer on medium speed, granulated sugar at medium-high speed remaining egg white mixture. A whisk helps
add ¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar in until pale yellow and thick, about thoroughly incorporate the flour without
a slow, steady stream, beating until stiff 2 minutes. This is the second of the egg disturbing the aeration.
peaks form, 1½ to 2 minutes. When your foams that help add aeration and lift to
whisk attachment is inverted, your meringue our Ladyfingers.
peak will either droop, dip, or stand tall. You
want that meringue standing tall, the perfect
indicator of a meringue whipped to firm peaks.

4. Fold in sifted flour mixture in two 5. Working in batches if necessary, place 6. In a small bowl, whisk together
additions just until combined. You want batter in a large pastry bag fitted with a confectioners’ sugar and remaining
to thoroughly incorporate the flour, but 7⁄16-inch round piping tip (Ateco #805). 2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated sugar.
keep a gentle touch. Every second spent Pipe 3-inch-long lines at least 1 inch apart Using a fine-mesh sieve, lightly dust piped
overmixing deflates precious aeration. on prepared pans. (Final dimensions of batter with sugars. This final dusting with
Ladyfingers should be 3x1 inches.) Be sugar helps keep a crust from forming on
careful not to pipe too quickly or they will the cookies, making them divinely soft.
be too thin.
july | august 2022 46
 Assembling a 1. Quickly dip half of Ladyfingers in
espresso mixture. (Do not let it soak.)
Masterpiece Place in bottom of a 13x9-inch baking
dish in a single layer, with long sides of
Bringing all the sweet pieces
Ladyfingers going along long sides of pan.
together to make one
We give our Ladyfingers a quick dip only so
creamy dessert they don’t absorb too much espresso and
become overly soggy.
2. Spoon half of mascarpone mixture
(about 4 cups or 630 grams) on top of
Ladyfingers in pan, and spread into an
even layer. While it’s fine to guess at the
amount of mascarpone mixture being
divided between the two layers, if you
want a tiramisù that slices as perfectly as
ours, we suggest dividing your mascarpone
mixture by weight.
3. Dip remaining Ladyfingers in espresso
mixture, and place on top of mascarpone
mixture in pan. Top with remaining
mascarpone mixture, smoothing into an
even layer. Cover and refrigerate for
24 hours for best flavor and texture.
Although it may be tempting to dig in
immediately, your tiramisù will benefit
from a day in the refrigerator. This gives the
mascarpone mixture time to set up and the
flavors time to mingle and marry.
1.

2. 3.

47 bake from scratch

GLOSSARIO | Zabaglione/zabaione: Traditionally
made of whipped eggs, sugar, and sweet wine, zabaglione
is often served in Italy as a standalone dessert with fresh
fruit to garnish. In tiramisù, zabaglione is folded into a
mascarpone and cream mixture that makes up the rich,
creamy body of the dessert.
Torta: CAKE,
ITALIAN STYLE
ENTER THE REALM OF THE ITALIAN TORTA, WHERE CAKE IS KEPT SIMPLE
AND PERFECT, ABOUNDING WITH RUSTIC CHARM

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JIM BATHIE

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BYLAURA CRANDALL AND TRICIA MANZANERO STUEDEMAN
FOOD STYLING BY KATIE MOON DICKERSON / STYLING BY DOROTHY WALTON
Torta di Semolino
page 54

july | august 2022 50

 Torta della Nonna
page 55

51 bake from scratch

Torta Mimosa
page 55
TORTA DI SUSINE
Makes 1 (9-inch) cake

A homey cake that celebrates the singular

beauty and flavor of fresh plums, the torta
di susine encapsulates the Italian ideal that
fine produce should be presented simply and
perfectly.

2 large eggs (100 grams), room

temperature
¾ cup (150 grams) granulated sugar
½ cup (112 grams) neutral oil
½ cup (120 grams) whole milk, room
temperature
2 teaspoons (12 grams) vanilla bean
paste
2 cups (250 grams) unbleached cake
flour
2 teaspoons (10 grams) baking powder
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
2 small plums (220 grams) (any
varietal), cut into ¼-inch-thick slices

1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Spray TORTA DI SEMOLINO

a 9-inch springform pan with baking Makes 1 (8-inch) cake
spray with flour. Line bottom of pan with
parchment paper. Making sweet use of one of Italy’s favorite
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with grains, our Torta di Semolino has a creamy
the whisk attachment, beat eggs at high texture akin to cheesecake. Mildly sweet with
speed until uniform in color and foamy, a hint of orange, its natural charm requires constantly, until thickened and creamy,
about 1 minute. With mixer on medium little more than a dusting of confectioners’ 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat; whisk
speed, add granulated sugar in a slow, sugar as adornment. in almond flour, granulated sugar, butter,
steady stream, beating until combined. vanilla bean paste, orange zest and juice,
Increase mixer speed to high, and beat 3 cups (720 grams) whole milk and salt until butter is melted and mixture
until thick and pale, about 2 minutes. ½ cup (90 grams) semolina flour* is well combined. Transfer to a medium
With mixer on medium-low speed, add ⅔ cup (64 grams) superfine blanched bowl; let cool for 15 minutes.
oil in a slow, steady stream, beating until almond flour* 3. Add eggs to semolina mixture, and
combined; scrape sides of bowl. With mixer 7 tablespoons (84 grams) granulated whisk until smooth and well combined.
on medium speed, gradually add milk and sugar Transfer mixture to prepared pan. Tap
vanilla bean paste, beating until combined. 1 tablespoon (14 grams) unsalted butter, pan on a kitchen towel-lined counter to
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, room temperature settle batter and release any air bubbles.
baking powder, and salt. Fold flour mixture 1½ teaspoons (9 grams) vanilla bean paste Smooth top using a small offset spatula, if
into egg mixture just until combined. Pour ¼ teaspoon packed orange zest necessary.
batter into prepared pan. Gently tap pan 1 teaspoon (5 grams) fresh orange juice 4. Bake until top is golden brown in spots
on a kitchen towel-lined counter to release ½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt and cake is set but still jiggles as a whole,
any large air bubbles. Top with plum slices, 2 large eggs (100 grams), room 40 to 45 minutes. (It’s OK if cake puffs
going all the way to edges and overlapping temperature and lightly beaten or cracks slightly while baking.) Using a
as needed. Garnish: confectioners’ sugar butter knife, gently loosen cake from edges
4. Bake until a wooden pick inserted in of pan. Let cool completely in pan on a
center comes out with a few moist crumbs, 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Butter wire rack. Remove from pan; garnish with
45 to 55 minutes. Let cool in pan for an 8-inch round cake pan. Line bottom of confectioners’ sugar just before serving, if
15 minutes. Remove sides of pan. Serve pan with parchment paper. desired.
warm, or let cool completely on pan base 2. In a medium saucepan, bring milk to
on a wire rack. a boil over medium heat. Sprinkle in *We used Bob’s Red Mill Semolina Flour and
semolina flour, whisking constantly; reduce Bob’s Red Mill Super-Fine Blanched Almond
heat to medium-low. Cook, whisking Flour.

july | august 2022 54

 1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Line wrap, pressing wrap directly onto surface
GLOSSARIO bottoms of 2 tall-sided 8-inch round cake of pastry cream to prevent a skin from
Torta: Most commonly translated as pans with parchment paper. (See Note.) forming. Refrigerate until thoroughly
"cake," torta can refer to any round- (Do not grease sides of pan.) chilled, about 3 hours or up to overnight.
shaped baked good, like pie, and can 2. For cake: In the bowl of a stand mixer 9. Transfer chilled pastry cream to a large
be sweet or savory. fitted with the whisk attachment, beat eggs bowl, and stir until softened and smooth.
at medium speed until frothy. With mixer 10. In another medium bowl, whisk cold
on medium speed, add sugar in a slow, cream and remaining 1½ tablespoons
TORTA MIMOSA steady stream, beating until combined. (18 grams) sugar by hand until medium-
Makes 1 (8-inch) cake Beat in vanilla. Increase mixer speed to stiff peaks form. Fold cream mixture into
medium-high; beat until pale, tripled in chilled pastry cream in three additions
Adorned with sponge cake cubes, the torta volume, and ribbon consistency, about until combined. Cover and refrigerate until
mimosa was designed to look like the frothy, 10 minutes. ready to use.
golden mimosa blossoms that dot the Italian 3. In a medium bowl, sift together flour, 11. For syrup: In a small microwave-safe
countryside. Punctuated by a lemon-scented cornstarch, cardamom, and salt. Using a bowl, combine 3 tablespoons (45 grams)
filling and a simple syrup soak, the cake fine-mesh sieve, sift enough flour mixture water and sugar. Heat on high in 10-second
remains tender and sweet under its crumb- over egg mixture just to cover surface; fold intervals, stirring between each, until sugar
coated dome for several days. The similarly just until combined. Repeat until all of flour dissolves. Let cool completely.
delicate-looking but hardy mimosa has been mixture is used up and batter is combined 12. Using a greased serrated knife, trim any
the symbol of International Women’s Day with no flour pockets remaining. (Do not thin browned edges off all sides of cake
in Italy for more than 70 years, making the overmix.) Divide batter between prepared layers. Cut 1 cake in half horizontally to
torta mimosa the unofficial dessert of La pans; smooth into an even layer using as create 2 layers. Cut remaining cake in half
Festa della Donna. few strokes as possible. (Pans will be quite horizontally; cut into ¾-inch cubes.
full, but batter will not overflow.) 13. Place 1 cake layer on a serving plate.
Cake: 4. Bake until golden brown, top springs Brush with half of syrup. Spoon 1½ cups
8 large eggs (400 grams), room back when lightly touched in center, and a (355 grams) filling into a pastry bag; cut
temperature wooden pick inserted in center comes out a ½-inch opening in tip. Pipe evenly over
1¼ cups (250 grams) granulated sugar clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Let cool in pans cake layer, and smooth using an offset
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract for 10 minutes. Run a butter knife around spatula; top with second layer, and brush
1¼ cups (163 grams) 00 flour* edge of cakes to loosen; remove from pans, with remaining syrup. Spread remaining
3 tablespoons (24 grams) cornstarch and let cool completely on a wire rack. filling on top and sides of stacked layers.
1¼ teaspoons (2.5 grams) ground 5. For filling: Place a fine-mesh sieve over a Press cake cubes into top and sides of
cardamom medium shallow baking dish or bowl. cake. Cover and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt 6. In a small saucepan, heat milk, ½ cup before serving.
(100 grams) sugar, and lemon zest over
Filling: medium heat, stirring occasionally, until *We used Cento Anna Napoletana Tipo “00”
2 cups (480 grams) whole milk steaming. (Do not boil.) Extra Fine Flour.
½ cup plus 3½ tablespoons (142 grams) 7. In another medium bowl, whisk together
granulated sugar, divided cornstarch, 2 tablespoons (24 grams) Note: We developed this recipe using 8-inch
4 teaspoons (10 grams) tightly packed sugar, and salt. Stir in egg yolks until well round cake pans with 3-inch-tall sides. This
lemon zest (3 to 4 lemons) combined. (Mixture will be very thick.) recipe will still work using standard 8-inch
4½ tablespoons (36 grams) cornstarch Gradually whisk half of warm milk mixture round cake pans with 2-inch-tall sides; the
¼ teaspoon kosher salt into egg yolk mixture. Add egg yolk cake layers may just bake with a slight lip at
4 large egg yolks (74 grams) mixture to remaining milk mixture in pan. the top. You can place a layer of foil on the
⅓ cup (80 grams) cold heavy whipping Bring to a boil over medium heat, whisking rack below your cake pans just in case,
cream constantly; reduce heat to medium- if desired.
low, and cook, whisking constantly, until
Syrup: thickened and mixture no longer tastes TORTA DELLA NONNA
3 tablespoons (45 grams) water starchy, 1 to 2 minutes, adjusting heat as Makes 1 (9-inch) tart
2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated needed.
sugar 8. Press pastry cream through prepared Also known as grandmother’s cake, torta della
sieve into baking dish or bowl; smooth into nonna has come to represent the simple yet
a thin layer. Cover with a piece of plastic rich flavor that Italian baking is famous for.

55 bake from scratch

Pastry cream, butter-rich crust, and pine layer. Lightly brush beaten egg along top 1. In a medium saucepan, heat milk, ⅓ cup
nuts combine for a satisfying dessert. Though edge of crust. (67 grams) sugar, lemon zest, and salt over
the recipe can’t be claimed by an actual 6. Between 2 sheets of parchment paper, medium heat, stirring occasionally, until
grandma—it hails from restauranteur Guido roll remaining dough into an 11½-inch steaming. (Do not boil.)
Samorini—the cake’s timeless, rustic appeal circle. Remove top sheet of parchment, 2. In a medium bowl, whisk together egg
has never gone out of fashion. and using parchment to help, lift dough, yolks, cornstarch, and remaining ⅓ cup
and place on top of pastry cream. Trim (67 grams) sugar. Pour hot milk mixture
2¾ cups (344 grams) all-purpose flour excess dough by pressing it against top into egg yolk mixture, whisking constantly.
⅔ cup (134 grams) granulated sugar edge of pan. Dock top dough with a fork. Return mixture to saucepan, and cook,
1 teaspoon (3 grams) tightly packed Freeze until dough is firm, 5 to 10 minutes. whisking constantly, until mixture starts
lemon zest 7. In a small bowl, combine pine nuts and to boil. Cook, whisking constantly, until
½ teaspoon (2.5 grams) baking powder ¼ cup (60 grams) water; let stand for cornstarch flavor has cooked out, 2 to
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt 5 minutes. Drain pine nuts, and pat dry. 3 minutes.
⅔ cup (150 grams) cold unsalted butter, 8. Brush top of tart with lightly beaten egg. 3. Remove from heat, and strain through a
cubed Sprinkle with pine nuts. fine-mesh sieve into a medium heatproof
2 large eggs (100 grams), cold 9. Bake until crust is golden brown, bowl. Stir in butter until completely
Italian Lemon Pastry Cream (recipe 40 to 50 minutes, rotating halfway combined. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing
follows) through baking. Let cool completely in wrap directly onto surface of pastry cream
¼ cup (36 grams) pine nuts pan on a wire rack. Serve at room to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate
¼ cup (60 grams) water temperature, or refrigerate and serve until completely cooled.
1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten chilled. Refrigerate in an airtight container
for up to 3 days.
1. In the work bowl of a food processor, PRO TIP
pulse together flour, sugar, lemon zest, ITALIAN LEMON PASTRY CREAM If you’d prefer to prep ahead, both
baking powder, and salt. Add cold butter, Makes about 3 cups the pastry cream and dough can
and pulse until sandy in texture. Add cold be made a day in advance and
eggs, and process until a dough forms. 2½ cups (600 grams) whole milk refrigerated overnight. Let chilled
2. Turn out dough onto a clean work ⅔ cup (133 grams) granulated sugar, dough stand at room temperature for
surface, and knead together 3 or 4 times divided temperature until slightly softened,
to make sure it is evenly combined. Divide 1 tablespoon (8 grams) tightly packed 15 to 30 minutes, before using.
in half (about 365 grams each), shape into lemon zest
disks, and wrap in plastic wrap. Refrigerate ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
for at least 1½ hours. 6 large egg yolks (112 grams), room
3. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). temperature
4. Between 2 sheets of parchment paper, ¼ cup (32 grams) cornstarch
roll half of dough into an 11½-inch circle 2 tablespoons (28 grams)
(¼-inch thickness). Remove top sheet of unsalted butter, cubed
parchment, and using parchment to help,
lift dough, and place in a 9½-inch fluted
round removable-bottom tart pan. Press
into bottom and up sides of pan, letting
excess extend over sides of pan. Trim
dough to edge of pan, and discard scraps.
Dock bottom with a fork. Freeze until firm,
5 to 10 minutes.
5. Lightly whisk chilled Italian Lemon
Pastry Cream until smooth. Spoon into
prepared crust, spreading into an even

july | august 2022 56

 Juls’
Tuscan Kitchen PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANN PAI
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND FOOD STYLING BYGIULIA SCARPALEGGIA
 FROM TWICE-BAKED PISTACHIO
BISCOTTI TO A DECADENT FARRO
AND RICOTTA TART, COOKBOOK
AUTHOR AND BLOGGER GIULIA
SCARPALEGGIA SHARES FOUR
RECIPES FROM HER TUSCAN KITCHEN

P
anoramic vistas and olive fields flank
the country road that leads to Giulia
Scarpaleggia’s Tuscan kitchen in Colle
Val d’Elsa, between Firenze (Florence) and
Siena. It’s here that Giulia, perhaps best known
by her blog name, Juls’ Kitchen, bakes, cooks,
writes, and teaches. Her kitchen looks out over
the rolling hills of Toscana, where you’ll find her
dogs lounging in the warm sun and chickens
staying busy next to the garden her mother
tends for the family. Giulia shares her family’s
compound with her photographer husband,
Tommaso, and their daughter as well as her
parents and grandmother. The stone farmhouse
is steeped in more than family history; it was
used as a post office in World War II by both
German and US forces. Today, Giulia is making
history of her own as she documents the
meaningful recipes that represent her family’s
life in Tuscany and welcomes guests around her
kitchen table for cooking and baking.

Giulia is the author of five cookbooks, including

From the Markets of Tuscany. She is working on
her sixth cookbook now. Connect with Giulia at
julskitchen.com and @julskitchen on Instagram.
You can also sign up for her delightful newsletter
at julskitchen.substack.com.

july | august 2022 58

FARRO AND RICOTTA TART
Makes 1 (9-inch) tart

This is the perfect tart to bake as an

afternoon snack, though it would be hard
to resist a slice even for breakfast or at the
end of a family meal on a Sunday. Instead
of chocolate, or along with it, you can add
raisins soaked in dessert wine or some candied
orange peel.

Shortcrust:
1¾ cups (300 grams) farro flour*
⅔ cup (150 grams) unsalted butter, room
temperature
½ cup (110 grams) firmly packed light
brown sugar
2 teaspoons (4 grams) tightly packed
orange zest (about 1 orange)
½ teaspoon (3 grams) fine sea salt
1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten

Filling:
¾ cup (150 grams) hulled farro
1¼ cups (300 grams) heavy whipping
cream
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon
(200 grams) whole milk
¼ cup (50 grams) granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon (1.5 grams) fine sea salt
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds
scraped and reserved
1 cup (250 grams) double-cream ricotta
cheese
⅓ cup (57 grams) 46% cacao semisweet
chocolate chips
1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten
2 teaspoons (9 grams) tightly packed
orange zest (about 1 orange)

1. For shortcrust: In a large bowl, place a creamy, soft risotto texture.) Let cool prepared crust, spreading evenly; using a
flour, butter, and brown sugar; using your completely. small sharp knife, trim excess dough flush
fingertips, rub together just until combined. 3. Stir ricotta, chocolate chips, egg, and with filling.
Add orange zest and salt; mix with your orange zest into cooled farro mixture. Set 7. Let remaining shortcrust stand at
fingers until no large lumps of butter aside. room temperature until softened, 10 to
remain. Mix in egg. Working quickly so it 4. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). 15 minutes; on a heavily floured surface,
does not become greasy, shape dough into a 5. Divide shortcrust in half. Let half of roll shortcrust into a 11-inch circle (about
disk; wrap in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for dough stand at room temperature until ⅛ inch thick). Using a pastry cutter, cut
at least 2 hours or up to overnight. slightly softened, 10 to 15 minutes. (Keep dough into ½-inch-thick strips. Arrange
2. For filling: Cook farro according to remaining shortcrust refrigerated until over top of filling in a lattice design as
package directions for al dente. Drain, and ready to use.) On a heavily floured surface, desired, pressing ends into bottom crust
transfer farro to a medium saucepan; add roll shortcrust into a 11-inch circle (about to adhere and trimming away excess.
cream, milk, granulated sugar, salt, and ⅛ inch thick). 8. Bake until set and golden, about
reserved vanilla bean seeds. Cook over 6. Spray a 9-inch springform pan with 45 minutes. Let cool completely in pan
medium heat, stirring frequently, until baking spray with flour. Transfer rolled before slicing and serving.
liquid is absorbed, about 25 minutes. (You pastry to prepared pan, pressing into
don’t want the farro to be too dry; aim for bottom and up sides. Spoon filling into *We used Pereg Farro Flour, available online.

july | august 2022 60

 OCCHI DI BUE
Makes about 10 sandwich cookies

Occhi di bue, literally “ox eyes,” are the large

shortcrust cookies, a reassuring constant in
any pastry shop, café, or bakery counter in
Italy. They are perfect in their generous round
shape, winking from the counter with their
heart of jam or chocolate.

⅔ cup plus 2 teaspoons (160 grams)

unsalted butter, room temperature
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (130 grams)
raw cane sugar
2 cups (250 grams) 00 flour
1 large egg yolk (19 grams), room
temperature
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
Pinch fine sea salt
½ cup (124 grams) apricot jam
Rice flour, for rolling*
Confectioners’ sugar, if desired

1. In a large bowl, using your fingertips,

work together butter and cane sugar; add
00 flour, egg yolk, vanilla, and salt; knead
just until a smooth dough forms. Shape
dough into a ball, and flatten slightly; wrap
in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least
1 hour or up to overnight.
2. Let dough stand at room temperature
until slightly softened, 15 to 20 minutes.
3. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Line
4 baking sheets with parchment paper.
4. Lightly dust work surface with rice flour.
Turn out dough onto work surface, and roll
to about a ⅛-inch (5-millimeter) thickness.
Using a 3⅛-inch (8-centimeter) round
cutter, cut dough; using a smaller 1- to
1½-inch round cutter, cut center from half
of dough rounds. (You can also use another
shape if you prefer.) Reroll and cut scraps
as necessary.
5. Place cut dough 1 inch apart on prepared
pans.
6. Bake until lightly golden, 11 to
12 minutes. Carefully remove from pans,
and let cool completely on wire racks.
7. Spoon 1½ teaspoons (10.5 grams) jam
onto flat side of all solid cookies. Place
remaining cookies, flat side down, on top
of jam. Dust with confectioners’ sugar, if
desired, and serve, or store in an airtight
container.

*You can also use all-purpose flour for rolling

out cookies.

61 bake from scratch

PAN DI RAMERINO
Makes about 32 buns

Even though it is now possible to purchase

and enjoy pan di ramerino in many
Florentine bakeries throughout the year, in
the past, it was sold just for Holy Thursday,
when it was brought to the church to be
blessed. Its very appearance—a soft, sticky
rosemary and raisin bun carved with a cross—
recalls this tradition. Whether it is to bless the
bread or to help the rising process, for faith
or superstition, this is the shape that has been
passed down from generation to generation.
Enjoy it as a snack, toast it and slather with
butter and jam, or pair it with a bloomy-
rind cheese and a slice of smoked ham as an
unusual appetizer.

Preferment:
⅓ cup plus 4 teaspoons (100 grams)
lukewarm water GLOSSARIO | Preferment/biga: Biga is the Italian version of a preferment. It’s
¼ teaspoon (1 gram) active dry yeast similar to French poolish, but where poolish is usually wet, consisting of a 1:1 flour to
1½ cups (200 grams) bread flour water ratio, biga is usually drier, consisting of up to two parts flour and one part water.

Dough:
2 cups (300 grams) packed raisins raisins. Let stand for 1 hour; thoroughly (A closed oven with the oven light on is a
½ cup (120 grams) vin santo or any drain, and squeeze raisins to release excess great option.)
sweet wine moisture. 7. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment
¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon (182 grams) 3. In a small saucepan, combine oil and paper.
extra-virgin olive oil rosemary. Heat over low heat, stirring 8. On a lightly floured surface, divide
3 tablespoons (10 grams) chopped fresh occasionally, until rosemary begins to fry, dough into 32 portions (about 65 grams
rosemary 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat; let cool each). Shape portions into balls. Place at
1⅔ cups (400 grams) lukewarm water, slightly for 20 minutes. least 2 inches apart on prepared pans.
divided 4. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk 9. In a small bowl, whisk together egg and
1 teaspoon (3 grams) active dry yeast together ⅔ cup (160 grams) lukewarm 1 tablespoon (15 grams) room temperature
6 to 6⅓ cups (800 to 843 grams) water and yeast until dissolved. Add water; brush dough with egg wash. Cover
00 flour preferment, 6 cups (800 grams) and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
½ cup (100 grams) raw cane sugar 00 flour, and cane sugar; using the dough (75°F/24°C) for about 25 minutes.
1 tablespoon (18 grams) fine sea salt hook attachment, beat at low speed for 10. Using a sharp knife, carve a cross or
1 large egg (50 grams) 5 minutes. Add salt; with mixer on low hashtag pattern into each bun. Brush with
1 tablespoon (15 grams) water, room speed, gradually add remaining 1 cup egg wash. Cover and let rise in a warm,
temperature (240 grams) lukewarm water, beating until draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until doubled
dough is smooth and not sticking to bowl in size, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Syrup: or dough hook, 5 to 8 minutes. (You can 11. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
¾ cup (150 grams) raw cane sugar also do this by hand with a lot of patience. 12. Bake until golden and well puffed, 15 to
⅔ cup (160 grams) water It is a long job but completely doable.) 20 minutes.
½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise, seeds 5. Add rosemary oil to dough. Beat at low 13. For syrup: Meanwhile, in a small
scraped and reserved speed until oil is completely absorbed and saucepan, combine cane sugar, ⅔ cup
dough is smooth and not too sticky, about (160 grams) water, and vanilla bean
1. For preferment: In a medium bowl, 10 minutes; adding up to remaining and reserved seeds. Bring to a boil over
whisk together ⅓ cup plus 4 teaspoons ⅓ cup (43 grams) 00 flour, 1 tablespoon medium heat; simmer, stirring frequently,
(100 grams) lukewarm water and yeast (8 grams) at a time, if necessary. Add until syrup is reduced by half and golden in
until dissolved. Add bread flour, and stir drained raisins during final 2 minutes and color, 5 to 7 minutes.
until combined. Cover with plastic wrap; beating just enough to incorporate them. 14. Immediately brush hot buns with hot
let stand at room temperature for 20 to 6. Spray a large bowl with cooking spray. syrup, and let them dry completely. These
24 hours. Place dough in bowl, turning to grease top. are irresistible eaten just out of the oven,
2. For dough: In a small bowl, place raisins. Cover and let stand in a warm, draft-free but they will keep well for 5 to 6 days into
Add vin santo and enough water to cover place (75°F/24°C) for about 15 minutes. a tin box or in a resealable plastic bag.
july | august 2022 64
TUSCAN BISCOTTI WITH PISTACHIOS
AND WHITE CHOCOLATE
Makes 32 biscotti

Biscotti hold their destiny in their name: “biscotti” means

“baked twice,” as this is how they are made—first baked in
a log and then sliced and baked cut side down until crisp
and golden brown. Even though the traditional biscotti are
made with almonds, I love to bake them with pistachios
and white chocolate, my husband Tommaso’s favorite
version: elegant, refined, and simply irresistible.

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (224 grams) granulated sugar

2 large eggs (100 grams)
1 large egg yolk (19 grams)
2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour, sifted
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder
Pinch fine sea salt
Zest of 1 orange (about 2 teaspoons or 4 grams)
4.25 ounces (120 grams) unsalted pistachios (about
a rounded ¾ cup)
3.5 ounces (100 grams) white chocolate, chopped
(about ½ cup plus 1 tablespoon)
1 large egg white (30 grams)

1. Preheat oven to 475°F (250°C).

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk
attachment, beat sugar, eggs, and egg yolk at medium-
high speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 4 minutes.
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking
powder, and salt. Stir flour mixture into sugar mixture
just until combined. Stir in orange zest. Add pistachios
and white chocolate; stir until combined.
4. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
5. Divide dough in half, and using a spatula if needed,
shape each half into a 12x2-inch (30x5-centimeter)
loaf. (Dough will be sticky.) Space loaves about
2 inches apart on prepared pan.
6. In a small bowl, whisk egg white until foamy.
Brush loaves with egg white.
7. Reduce oven temperature to 350°F (180°C). (The
extremely high initial temperature ensures the biscotti
won’t lose their shape when they start to bake.)
8. Bake until golden but still slightly soft inside,
20 to 25 minutes. (If you push down on the surface,
it should be relatively hard but still have a little give.)
Let cool on pan for 5 minutes. Leave oven on.
9. Transfer loaves, one at a time, to a cutting board;
using a sharp knife, slice into ¾-inch-thick
(2-centimeter-thick) slices. Place, cut side down, on pan.
10. Bake until browned, 12 to 15 minutes. Carefully
remove from pan, and let cool completely on wire
racks. Store in an airtight jar or tin. (They should keep
for weeks.)

For another Italian specialty from Siena, visit

bakefromscratch.com/panforte for Juls’ Panforte recipe,
a deliciously spiced dessert full of fruits and nuts. •
july | august 2022 66
LA
DOLCE italy
Vita
PIEMONTE

LIGURIA
TOSCANA

FROM PIEMONTE IN THE NORTH TO LIGURIA AND

TOSCANA, HERE ARE MUST-VISIT PLACES, BAKED ITEMS
TO TASTE, AND RECIPES TO TRY AT HOME
BY BROOKE BELL, ENRICA MONZANI, AND GIULIA SCARPALEGGIA
LAZIO
PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANN PAI
Pride. Care. Passion.
These words best describe the baking and food
For the first of many Italian baking issues to come,
we intentionally started our travels in the northern
part of the country in the Piemonte and worked our
culture in Italy. In each home kitchen, bakery, way down to Liguria and into Toscana and Lazio. In
restaurant, market, and food shop we visited, there each of these regions, we leaned on local experts to
was pride, care, and passion. Pride of place and share some of their favorites with us. Our baking
tradition, care of ingredients, and passion for process journey in Italy has only just begun. As the composer
and making people happy through food. Giuseppe Verdi said, “You may have the universe if I
may have Italy.”
 Piemonte
Surrounded on three sides by stately snow-capped
Alps, the Piemonte (Piedmont) is the birthplace of
the Slow Food movement and home to hazelnuts,
white truffles, plin pasta, grissini, fabulous wines, and
more. While it might be one of the lesser-known
regions in Italy, once you discover its beauty and
culinary riches, you’ll be back.

ALBA: HEARTBEAT OF THE

LANGHE
The town of Alba is centrally located near many
storied wine regions in the Piemonte region, most
notably Barolo and Barbaresco. Wander the quaint
streets past the Piazza Duomo and its bell tower, and
it won’t take you long to notice this wine region is
home to two other important ingredients: hazelnuts
and truffles. Alba is the white truffle capital of the
world, so you’ll find stores everywhere dedicated
to selling truffles and truffle products, and you can
expect freshly shaved truffles (both summer and
white, depending on the season) on most menus.

HAZELNUT HEAVEN
As you travel through the rolling hills of the
Piemonte, you’ll be astonished by the number of
hazelnut farms. They are tucked between vineyards
and ramble down from hilltop towns. Talk to
locals, and you’ll discover that it’s not uncommon
for winemakers to convert some of their land to
hazelnuts. Why? Ferrero, which owns mega brands
such as Nutella and Kinder, is based in Alba. And
legend is true: early in the morning when the wind is
blowing in a certain direction, the town of Alba smells
like Nutella when hazelnuts are being processed into
one of our favorite pantry staples. Pure bliss.

Aside from Nutella, you’ll find chocolate hazelnut

spreads and hazelnut flour from artisan producers
and hazelnut everything. Some of our favorites:
gelato, baci di dama cookies, and bunet, a creamy
Piemontese pudding. Turn to page 85 for 4 Ways
with Chocolate Hazelnut Spread.

july | august 2022 70

 CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT PANNA COTTA
Makes 6 servings

An ode to two of the best things to come out of the Piemonte

region—Nutella and panna cotta—this recipe is a sweet marriage of
creamy texture and unparalleled chocolate and hazelnut flavor.

¼ cup (60 grams) cold water

1 (0.25-ounce) package (7 grams) unflavored gelatin
2 cups (480 grams) heavy whipping cream
3 tablespoons (36 grams) granulated sugar
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt
½ teaspoon instant espresso powder
1 cup (308 grams) chocolate hazelnut spread*
2 ounces (57 grams) 72% cacao dark chocolate,
finely chopped (about ⅓ cup)
1 cup (240 grams) whole milk
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
Vanilla Whipped Cream (recipe follows)
Garnish: fresh berries

1. In a small microwave-safe bowl, place ¼ cup (60 grams) cold

water. Sprinkle gelatin evenly on top; let stand until hydrated,
5 to 10 minutes.
2. Meanwhile, in a medium saucepan, whisk together cream,
sugar, salt, and espresso powder; cook over medium heat,
whisking frequently, until steaming. (Do not boil.) Remove
from heat. Add chocolate hazelnut spread and finely chopped
chocolate; whisk until melted and well combined. (If chocolate
isn’t completely melted, return pan to stovetop, and cook over
medium-low heat, whisking frequently, until mixture is smooth
and well combined.)
3. Heat gelatin mixture on high in 10-second intervals, stirring
between each, until gelatin completely dissolves. Gradually pour
gelatin mixture into warm cream mixture, whisking constantly.
Whisk in milk and vanilla.
4. Fill a large bowl with ice water. Strain cream mixture through
a fine-mesh sieve into a medium metal bowl. Place bowl in
prepared ice water bath; stir until an instant-read thermometer
registers 70°F (21°C).
5. Divide cooled cream mixture among 6 serving glasses (about
¾ cup or 190 grams each); refrigerate, uncovered, for at least
4 hours or up to overnight. Serve with Vanilla Whipped Cream.
Garnish with berries, if desired.

*We used Nutella.

VANILLA WHIPPED CREAM

Makes 11⁄3 cups
GLOSSARIO
¾ cup (180 grams) cold heavy whipping cream Panna Cotta: Literally, “cooked
2 tablespoons (24 grams) granulated sugar cream.” Panna cotta is a classic dessert
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract from Piemonte. Consisting of sweet
cream and gelatin, traditional recipes
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together all ingredients by hand are often served with berry coulis,
until medium-stiff peaks form. Use immediately. chocolate sauce, or caramel.

71 bake from scratch

 Liguria
This stunning region hugs the Ligurian Sea, where
colorful fishing villages dot the coastline and lemons
droop from trees on terraced hillsides. We were
captivated by the history and energy in Genoa
(Genova) and enchanted by Camogli, Rapallo, Santa
Margherita Ligure, and Portofino. All along the way,
we found a passion for Genoese pesto, focaccia,
farinata, chifferi, and so much more.

MEET ENRICA OF A SMALL

KITCHEN IN GENOA
Enrica Monzani, a former attorney turned
passionate foodie, leads food tours as well
as private cooking classes in her home and
shares recipes on her blog, A Small Kitchen in
Genoa. She was a 2016 finalist in the VI World
Championship of Pesto al Mortaio,
pesto made by hand with a mortar. Connect Enrica
with her at asmallkitcheningenoa.com or
@asmallkitcheningenoa on Instagram.

GENOA: A PORT CITY STEEPED

IN HISTORY
The oldest historic center of Europe, Genoa is known
for its large port, family-run shops, and irresistible
basil pesto, to name a few. Discover local flavors by
looking for old eateries called sciamadde, where, since
medieval times, farinata (chickpea tart), castagnaccio
(chestnut cake), and polpettone (green bean and potato
casserole) have been baked in shallow copper pans until
steaming. Of course, there is focaccia, too. Stop in a
café, order a cappuccino, and mop your focaccia in the
cappuccino—it’s the usual Genoese breakfast!

When in Liguria, you’ll also find endless variations of

savory pies, torte di verdura, for which this region holds
the record in Italy. Layers of puff pastry are filled with
seasonal vegetables, fresh cheese, eggs, and aromatic
herbs and spices. The queen is torta Pasqualina, which
hides whole eggs inside and traditionally appears on
tables during Easter. —Enrica Monzani
 CHIFFERI 1. For sponge: In a small bowl, whisk together milk, yeast, and
Makes 12 rolls honey until yeast dissolves and mixture is well combined. Add
flour; stir quickly until well combined. Cover with plastic wrap,
Recipe by Enrica Monzani and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until
small bubbles appear on surface, about 40 minutes to 1 hour.
This beautiful brioche is lightly flavored with orange zest before 2. For dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the
being shaped into a crescent and baked to golden perfection. dough hook attachment, combine sponge and flour. With
Chifferi also refers to elbow pasta, like macaroni, and refers to mixer on low speed, gradually add milk, sugar, egg yolks, and
their shared semicircle shape. egg, beating until combined. Add butter, 1 piece at a time,
beating until combined after each addition. Add orange zest
Sponge: or extract and salt. Beat at medium-low speed until dough
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon (100 grams) clears sides of bowl and is very elastic, 10 to 12 minutes.
whole milk (When a flap of dough is pulled, it will be elastic and difficult
2¼ teaspoons (7 grams) active dry yeast to tear.)
1 teaspoon (7 grams) wildflower honey 3. Shape dough into a ball; transfer to a bowl, cover with
¾ cup plus 2 teaspoons (100 grams) bread flour plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
(75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, about 1½ to 2 hours.
Dough: 4. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.
3 cups plus 2 tablespoons (400 grams) bread flour 5. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 14-inch
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon (100 grams) (35-centimeter) disk; divide disk into 12 triangles. Make a
whole milk, room temperature ½-inch (1-centimeter) cut in center of base of each triangle;
⅓ cup plus 1 tablespoon (80 grams) granulated sugar slightly pull tip of 1 triangle outward, and begin to roll triangle
3 large egg yolks (56 grams), room temperature from base to tip to form a chiffero. Repeat with remaining
1 large egg (50 grams), room temperature triangles. Place chifferi with tip tucked underneath 1 to
⅔ cup (150 grams) unsalted butter, cubed and room 2 inches apart on prepared pans.
temperature 6. For egg wash: In a small bowl, whisk together egg, milk, and
1 tablespoon (3 grams) orange zest (about 1 orange) or salt until well combined. Brush evenly over chifferi. Loosely
½ teaspoon (2 grams) orange extract cover with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm, draft-free place
¾ teaspoon (4.5 grams) fine sea salt (75°F/24°C) until doubled in size, about 1½ hours.
7. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
Egg wash: 8. Brush chifferi with egg wash.
1 large egg (50 grams) 9. Bake until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Serve warm or
1 tablespoon (15 grams) whole milk at room temperature.
Pinch fine sea salt
73 bake from scratch
GENOESE FOCACCIA
This renowned flatbread has a crispy outside, moist inside,
dimples, and an extra-virgin olive oil shine. Don’t miss
focaccia with onions that are gently cooked to bring out
their sweetness without caramelizing. —Enrica Monzani

BREAKFAST BRIOCHE
Plan to queue at Pasticceria Tagliafico for a chiffero, a
beloved breakfast brioche. While these might resemble
croissants, the similarities stop there. Here, the chifferi are
softer and less flaky and are filled with a hint of apricot jam.
After baking, they get a brush of simple syrup. —Enrica
Monzani
Via Galata, 31R
Genoa

STUNNING CONFECTIONS
This jewel box of a confectionery store is a feast for the eyes
and those with a sweet tooth. Pietro Romanengo is Italy’s
oldest renowned confectioner, making sweet treats since
1780. Everything is made in small batches with the finest
ingredients. Of note, you’ll want to try quaresimali (popular
during Lent), marzipan candies, Rosolio Drops, and truly
anything that calls to you.
Via di Soziglia, 74/76R
Genoa
GENOESE FOCACCIA 1. In a small bowl, whisk together ¼ cup (60 grams) warm
1 (15x11-inch) loaf water, yeast, and ½ teaspoon (2 grams) sugar. Let stand until
foamy, 5 to 10 minutes.
Recipe by Enrica Monzani 2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook
attachment, combine yeast mixture, flour, lukewarm water
Focaccia in Genoa is ubiquitous. It is in our life from sunrise to (105 grams), salt, and remaining 1 teaspoon (4 grams)
sunset. We soak it in the cappuccino for breakfast (yes, we do, and sugar. Beat at low speed for 5 minutes. (Dough will look dry
it’s incredibly good), we give it to our children as a snack at school, at first but will come together later.) Add 4 teaspoons
and finally, it is offered with a glass of white wine for aperitivo. (20 grams) olive oil; beat until combined. (Use your hands
The secret to Genoese focaccia is the emulsion of oil, water, and to help incorporate, if needed.) Add remaining 1 tablespoon
salt that you spread abundantly on the surface before the last (15 grams) lukewarm water; beat at medium-low speed until
leavening. Do not worry if it seems like a lot; it will evaporate dough is smooth and elastic, 6 to 7 minutes. (The dough is
during cooking and allow the holes to remain during cooking. perfect when it’s elastic when pulled and difficult to tear.)
3. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface; reach under
¼ cup (60 grams) warm water (110°F/43°C to 115°F/46°C) one side of dough, and gently stretch and fold dough over
1¼ teaspoons (3.75 grams) active dry yeast to center. Repeat on remaining 3 sides, and form a slightly
1½ teaspoons (6 grams) granulated sugar, divided flattened rectangle. Place, seam side down, on a lightly
23⁄4 cups (370 grams) 00 flour floured board; cover with plastic wrap, and let stand for
½ cup (120 grams) lukewarm water (98°F/37°C to 30 minutes.
105°F/41°C), divided 4. Coat a 15x11-inch baking pan with 2 tablespoons
1¼ teaspoons (7.5 grams) fine sea salt (28 grams) olive oil.
3½ tablespoons (49 grams) plus 4 teaspoons (20 grams) 5. On a lightly floured surface, roll out dough into a 13x9-inch
olive oil rectangle. Transfer dough to prepared pan. Cover with plastic
Brine (recipe follows) wrap, and let rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) for
2 tablespoons (28 grams) extra-virgin olive oil, to finish 30 minutes.
6. Stretch dough into corners until it covers entire surface of
pan, leaving no edges free and taking care to eliminate various
air bubbles below dough. Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-
free place (75°F/24°C) for 1 hour.
7. Generously flour surface of dough, and make deep dimples
close to each other using your fingertips (exclude your thumb
and pinky finger and try to keep the palm of your hand facing
the dough’s surface). Pour Brine and remaining 1½ tablespoons
(21 grams) olive oil evenly over surface. Mix Brine and oil well
with your fingers, thoroughly covering surface. (Be careful that
the Brine does not go underneath the dough.) Cover and let
rise in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) for 1 hour.
8. Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C).
9. Bake until golden brown, 15 to 17 minutes. Invert focaccia
onto a wire rack, and brush bottom and top with extra-virgin
olive oil. Let cool on a wire rack to keep it crispy.

BRINE
Makes ¼ cup

¼ cup (60 grams) water

½ teaspoon (3 grams) fine sea salt

1. In a small bowl, whisk together ¼ cup (60 grams) water and

salt until well combined and salt dissolves.

FOCACCIA AL FORMAGGIO
DI RECCO
You can’t leave Liguria without tasting a slice of focaccia
al formaggio. The name is misleading because it’s not
a flatbread or what you think of as focaccia. It’s an
ancient pie that’s made of thin unleavened dough filled
with a fresh local cheese that’s baked in a wood oven
until creamy and melted. The capital of this gluttony is
Recco, a small coastal village a few kilometers east of
Genoa. But you can also taste the original at Revello
in Camogli, one of the loveliest small fishing villages in
Liguria. Look for the cheese’s label to be attached to
the hot pie, a sign of authenticity. —Enrica Monzani
Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 183
Camogli

july | august 2022 76

FARINATA
Makes 1 (12-inch) pancake

Recipe by Enrica Monzani

Farinata is one of the most representative dishes

of Genoese street food. Farinata dates back
to Roman times and similar dishes—based on
water and chickpea flour—are also typical of
other Mediterranean regions: in Tuscany and in
Pisa, you can eat cecina; in Livorno, a cake of
chickpeas; in Sardinia, the fainé; in Sicily, there
are the famous panelle; and in Provence, a tart
very similar to farinata but called socca. In short,
chickpea flour has fed and conquered many
seafaring peoples.

1 cup plus 1½ tablespoons (140 grams)

chickpea flour*
1 teaspoon (6 grams) fine sea salt
1¾ cups (420 grams) lukewarm water
¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon (70 grams) olive oil
Ground black pepper, to taste

1. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour

and salt. Add 1¾ cups (420 grams) lukewarm
water, a little at a time, whisking well to get a
smooth batter without lumps. Cover and let
stand at room temperature for at least
4 hours or up to 8 hours, stirring every
2 hours and removing foam that eventually
forms on top.
2. Position oven rack in lower third of oven.
Preheat oven to 450°F (230°C). Place a
12-inch cast-iron skillet in oven for 5 minutes
to get very hot.
3. Transfer batter to a carafe or 4-cup liquid-
measuring cup.
4. Carefully remove hot skillet from oven;
place on a wire rack, and add oil to skillet.
5. Using a wooden spoon placed at a
45-degree angle in center of skillet just above
the oil, pour batter onto bowl of spoon, letting
it run into skillet. (Batter will gently float over
the oil, which will create a protective film
above and under the batter without mixing
with it.)
6. Bake until edges are a light hazelnut color,
15 to 20 minutes. Increase oven temperature
to broil. Broil for 5 minutes. Let cool in skillet
on a wire rack for 1 minute. Season with
pepper, and serve immediately.

*We used Bob’s Red Mill Chickpea Flour.

LIGURIAN STREET FOOD
Farinata, a humble chickpea tart dating back to
Roman times that’s now considered street food, is
baked until browned and crispy, cut while still hot,
and served in squares. In Rapallo, at the family-
owned Pizzeria U Fainottu Du Caruggiu, farinata
has been coming out of their oven since 1984.
Vico Fortunio Liceti, 7
Rapallo

PICTURESQUE PORTOFINO
If you’re looking for a moment to slow down along
the Italian Riviera and take in the views, Portofino
is a protected and picturesque harbor filled with
open-air cafés and boutiques. The drive in along
steep cliffs that crash into the sea is breathtaking.
You can even hike to Portofino from Santa
Margherita Ligure. Whether you drive or walk,
it’s the perfect place to enjoy a long wine lunch
of fried anchovies and trofie al pesto Genoese.
 GLOSSARIO | Vin Santo: A classic amber-hued
dessert wine that originated in Tuscany. Vin santo
translates to “holy wine” but is often called “straw wine”
because the grapes used to make it are dried on straw
mats after harvesting.

Giulia
Toscana
Arguably the most iconic landscape in Italy, which has been
inspiring artists for centuries, Toscana (Tuscany) is recognized for
its towering cypress trees, hilltop towns, and rich color palette of
gold and sienna. We discovered new bakeries in bustling Firenze
(Florence), strolled the streets, eating gelato, and admired the
magnificence around every corner. In Siena, we were charmed
by the central piazza, duomo, and narrow streets twisting through
this medieval town.

MEET GIULIA OF JULS’ KITCHEN

Giulia Scarpaleggia writes, teaches, and cooks in her family’s
Tuscan farmhouse outside of Siena, where she lives with her
photographer husband, Tommaso, and their daughter. Connect
with her at julskitchen.com or @julskitchen on Instagram. Turn to
page 57 for a delicious look inside Giulia’s kitchen.
BREAKFAST AT BUONAMICI
Pasticceria Buonamici is a historic Florentine bakery
in the heart of the Oltrarno neighborhood, which
focuses on quality ingredients and artisanal, traditional
production. The bakery was opened in 1949 by Bruno
Buonamici, who learned the art of baking while working
for the renowned Pasticceria Robiglio as a child.
Buonamici is celebrated for its pistachio cantucci and
incredible selection of Italian croissants and pastries.
This is one of the best spots in town to enjoy an Italian
breakfast. Grab a cappuccino and custard-filled
cornetto, and enjoy it standing at the counter, the
Italian way. —Giulia Scarpaleggia
Via dell’Orto, 27R
Firenze

july | august 2022 80

 GELATO, ALWAYS!
Antonio Ciabattoni founded Gelateria La Sorbettiera
in 2007 with his wife, Elisa, and the quality of his
artisanal gelato shines through in every vibrant,
seasonal taste, supported by high-quality ingredients
and a profound attention to new trends. Here, you
can find outstanding classics such as pistachio di GLOSSARIO | Gelato: The beloved Italian take on ice cream.
Bronte or inventive creations, such as the lemon and To be considered true Italian gelato, the mixture must have 6% to
sage sorbet or basil and lime gelato, inspired by Chef 10% milk fat, 70% less air than other ice cream, and more flavoring.
Jacque Genin. Enjoy a traditional waffle cone, fill a That means gelato is denser and richer than other frozen desserts.
brioche with your favorite flavor, or have your gelato
as a mattonella, which translates to “tile,” so think ice
cream sandwich. —Giulia Scarpaleggia
Piazza Torquato Tasso, 11R
Firenze

PANFORTE PARADISE
Bakers don’t want to miss Antica Drogheria
Manganelli to stock up on all kinds of Tuscan goodies.
As you walk in, take note of the canisters of spices,
dried fruit, and nuts behind the counter. Here, simply
tell the friendly team how much the panforte you plan
to bake will weigh and if you prefer a light or dark spice
blend. They will measure out the amount of spices,
fruit, and nuts you need to make this Sienese specialty.
You can also purchase beautifully wrapped panforte,
vin santo, and much more. For Giulia’s Panforte
recipe, visit bakefromscratch.com/panforte.
Via di Città 71/73
Siena

81 bake from scratch

SIENESE SPECIALTIES
Locals love Panificio il Magnifico bakery for its pan
co’ Santi, a raisin- and walnut-studded spiced bread
typically made for All Saints’ Day, and its special
Easter schiacciata, said to be one of the best in town.
At Christmastime, pan co’ Santi is available fresh daily,
along with a focaccia made from the same dough.
The rest of the year, pan co’ Santi is available only
on Fridays. Together with classic Sienese Christmas
desserts, you’ll also find everyday breads, ciambelloni
(doughnuts), cantucci cookies, and cakes like pinolata,
panettone, and colombe. —Giulia Scarpaleggia
Via dei Pellegrini, 27
Siena

july | august 2022 82

 Lazio
AND BECAUSE ALL ROADS
LEAD TO ROMA . . .
. . . and points south, we ended our journey in
Roma (Rome). Read about editor-in-chief Brian
Hart Hoffman’s breakfast quest and first taste of
maritozzo on page 103. And to tempt you with our
next Italian baking issue, here’s a Neapolitan-style
pizza recipe from author Katie Parla’s cookbook,
Food of the Italian South.

83 bake from scratch

IMPASTO PER LA PIZZA NAPOLETANA dough into a small disk by pushing your fingers flat into
(NEAPOLITAN-STYLE PIZZA DOUGH) the dough, leaving the edge untouched. Flip over the disk
Makes enough dough for 4 (9-inch) pizzas and continue until you have a round disk about 8 inches in
diameter.
Thick-rimmed Neapolitan-style pizza has become synonymous 8. To stretch the dough to the desired size, drape it over the
with Italy, and it is arguably the country’s most famous export. back of your hands and knuckles, fingers bent inward. Gently
In Naples, as elsewhere, this popular food is baked in a domed rotate the dough, stretching it little by little until it is around
word-burning oven, but this recipe has been adapted for your 12 inches in diameter.
home oven so you can enjoy the chewy crust and elastic dough 9. Transfer the shaped dough to a pizza peel or a parchment
of pizza napoletana in your own home—though, if you can, take paper-lined inverted baking sheet (see Note). Top as directed
a trip to Naples for the real deal. Plan ahead to make this pizza, in the Pizza Margherita recipe and transfer the pizza to the
as the cold, slow rise in the refrigerator takes at least 20 hours. preheated baking sheet or baking stone. Bake until the crust
Alternatively, you can proof the dough on your counter instead is lightly charred around the edges and the toppings are
of in the refrigerator. It will be ready to bake in 3 to 6 hours after cooked, 4 to 6 minutes. Repeat with the remaining dough
your final stretch and fold, depending on your room temperature. balls, allowing the oven and the pizza stone or baking sheet to
A recipe for a classic margherita pizza inspired by the south and reheat for 10 to 15 minutes before baking the next pizza.
its famed pizza makers follows. 10. Serve immediately.

590 grams (scant 5 cups) bread flour Note: A baking stone or steel will give your pizza a better crust,
1.75 grams (rounded ½ teaspoon) active dry yeast better volume, and incomparable lightness. If you do not have
380 grams (about 1½ cups) cold filtered water one, an inverted baking sheet or unglazed quarry tiles will work
12 grams (2 teaspoons) sea salt as substitutes. For the best results, preheat the stone, steel, or
inverted baking sheet on the center rack for at least 45 minutes
1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, before baking your pizza. Recipe cooking times depend upon your
combine the flour, yeast, and the cold water. Mix on the baking surface and will be shorter if you use a stone.
lowest speed until the dough just comes together and there is
no more dry flour in the bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and set PIZZA MARGHERITA (MARGHERITA PIZZA)
aside to hydrate at room temperature for 30 minutes. Makes 1 (9-inch) pizza
2. Return the bowl to the stand mixer and mix on medium-
low speed. Add the salt and mix for 20 minutes more to build Southern Italy’s most iconic pizza features cow’s milk mozzarella,
strength and until the dough is very smooth and elastic. tomato sauce, and basil.
3. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface,
shape it into a tight ball, and transfer to a lightly oiled bowl. Dough for 1 pizza crust (recipe precedes)
Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at 39°F to 41°F for at 3.5 ounces canned whole tomatoes
least 20 hours and up to 30 hours. Sea salt
4. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface, allowing it Pinch of dried oregano
to gently release from the bowl, and cut it into 4 equal pieces, 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
weighing about 250 grams (9 ounces) each, with a dough 4.5 ounces mozzarella cheese, cut into ½-inch cubes, excess
scraper or knife. water squeezed out
5. Working with one piece of dough at a time, take the four 5 fresh basil leaves
corners and pull and fold them into the center. Do not flatten.
The dough will tighten up and take on a round shape. Flip the 1. Shape the dough as directed in Impasto per la Pizza
dough seam side down. Place the palm of your hand on top Napoletana (Neapolitan-Style Pizza Dough) recipe.
of the ball, resting your thumb and pinkie against the sides 2. Place the tomatoes in a medium bowl, and blend with an
and your other fingertips on the counter. Gently move the immersion blender until they are broken down to a chunky
ball in circles, taking care to prevent any tears, to create a purée. Season with salt, oregano, and 1 tablespoon of the
tight, even ball. Repeat this process with the remaining dough olive oil.
pieces. Place the shaped dough balls on a greased baking 3. Spoon the tomato sauce over the pizza dough to the
sheet. Brush lightly with oil and cover the whole baking sheet edge of the raised border and then distribute the mozzarella
with plastic wrap. Set aside at room temperature until the evenly. Bake as directed in Impasto per la Pizza Napoletana
dough has nearly doubled in size, about 2 hours. (Neapolitan-Style Pizza Dough) recipe.
6. When ready to bake, preheat the broiler to high or preheat 4. Garnish with the basil leaves, and drizzle with the remaining
oven to 500°F. Set an inverted baking sheet or a baking stone 1 tablespoon olive oil.
on the center rack to preheat as well (see Note).
7. Place one dough ball on a well-floured surface and then Recipe reprinted from Katie Parla’s Food of the Italian South
sprinkle more flour on top. Starting in the center, work the (Clarkson Potter, 2019). •

july | august 2022 84

 4
WAYS
Chocolate
Hazelnut
WITH Spread

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAC JAMIESON

RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY TRICIA MANZANERO STUEDEMAN
FOOD STYLING BY KATIE MOON DICKERSON
STYLING BY LUCY FINNEY
 WITH ROASTED HAZELNUTS FOR THOSE CRAVING
SOMETHING CRUNCHY AND CREAMY, SMOOTH SPREAD
FOR THOSE CRAVING THE DECIDEDLY DECADENT,
THESE FOUR ITALIAN CLASSICS EACH GET AN
IRRESISTIBLE CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT TWIST

Baci di
Alassio
page 89

july | august 2022 86

Hazelnut-Pistachio-
Chocolate Salami
page 89
Chocolate
Hazelnut-Filled
Biscotti
page 90

cover recipe
BACI DI ALASSIO additions just until combined. Add honey ⅓ cup (47 grams) chopped roasted salted
Makes 24 to 30 sandwich cookies (depending on and vanilla bean paste; fold until well pistachios
size of piped cookies) combined. 6 ounces (170 grams) 72% cacao dark
5. Spoon hazelnut mixture into a pastry chocolate*, chopped (about 1 cup)
Similar to a macaron but with a little more bag fitted with a ½-inch open star 2 ounces (57 grams) 31% cacao milk
textured crunch from ground hazelnuts, piping tip (Ateco #826). Pipe 1¼- to chocolate*, chopped (about ⅓ cup)
baci di Alassio, or “kisses of Alassio,” are a 13⁄8-inch-wide rosettes or kisses on ⅓ cup (102 grams) chocolate hazelnut
regional Italian confection native to Alassio, prepared pans (see Notes); gently pat spread*
a town in the province of Savona situated down or smooth any rough piped ends, if ⅓ cup (80 grams) whole milk, room
on the western coast of Liguria in Northern needed. (Alternatively, divide dough into temperature
Italy. We chose to fill our sweet kisses with a 2-teaspoon scoops [about 12 grams each]; 2 tablespoons (28 grams) unsalted
chocolate hazelnut ganache that beautifully shape into 1¼- to 13⁄8-inch-wide disks butter, melted
bolsters their flavor. [about ¼ inch thick].) ¼ teaspoon orange zest
6. Bake, one batch at a time, until cookies 1½ tablespoons (22.5 grams) fresh orange
¼ cup (43 grams) finely chopped 56% appear dry and set but are still slightly soft juice
cacao semisweet chocolate to the touch, 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool 1 tablespoon (7 grams) confectioners’
¼ cup (77 grams) chocolate hazelnut completely on pan on a wire rack. (See sugar, sifted, plus more for dusting
spread* Notes.) 1 teaspoon (6 grams) vanilla bean paste
3 tablespoons (45 grams) heavy 7. Stir cooled thickened chocolate mixture. ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
whipping cream Spoon into a pastry bag; cut a ¼-inch
14 ounces (400 grams) roasted unsalted opening in tip. Pipe onto flat side of half of 1. In a large bowl, stir together biscuits,
whole hazelnuts (about 3 cups) cooled cookies. Place remaining cookies, hazelnuts, and pistachios.
⅔ cup (134 grams) granulated sugar, flat side down, on top of filling. Refrigerate 2. In the top of a double boiler, combine
divided for 20 minutes before serving. chocolates. Cook over simmering water,
¼ cup (21 grams) sifted Dutch process stirring occasionally, until melted and
cocoa powder *We used Nutella. smooth. Remove from heat. Whisk
½ teaspoon (1.5 grams) kosher salt in chocolate hazelnut spread, milk,
½ teaspoon (1 gram) instant espresso Notes: If desired, you can use a permanent melted butter, orange zest and juice,
powder marker to draw 1¼- to 13⁄8-inch-wide circles confectioners’ sugar, vanilla bean paste,
3 large egg whites (150 grams), room ¾ to 1 inch apart on 2 sheets of parchment and salt. Add chocolate mixture to biscuit
temperature paper. Place, marker side down, on 2 baking mixture, stirring until well combined.
1 tablespoon (21 grams) clover honey sheets. Silicone macaron baking mats with 3. Spoon half of biscuit mixture onto a
½ teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla bean paste appropriately sized circles can also be used as sheet of plastic wrap, and shape into a
a guide. compact, rough 9x2-inch log. Wrap in
1. In the top of a double boiler, combine plastic wrap, smoothing, reshaping, and
chocolate, chocolate hazelnut spread, and Cookies may bake with a shiny or matte rewrapping log as needed to minimize air
cream. Cook over simmering water, stirring finish, depending on several factors, but will pockets or divots in surface; while holding
occasionally, until chocolate is melted be delicious all the same. ends of plastic wrap, roll log over work
and mixture is smooth and combined. surface, creating a more rounded shape.
Remove from heat, and let stand at room HAZELNUT-PISTACHIO- Repeat with remaining half of biscuit
temperature, whisking occasionally, until CHOCOLATE SALAMI mixture. Refrigerate until firm, at least
thickened, about 1 hour. Makes 10 to 14 servings 3 hours.
2. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C). Line 4. Unwrap logs; dust on all sides with
2 baking sheets with parchment paper. The perfect summertime treat, this no-bake confectioners’ sugar, shaking off excess.
3. In the work bowl of a food processor, Hazelnut-Pistachio-Chocolate Salami recipe Using a serrated knife, cut logs into
combine hazelnuts, ⅓ cup (67 grams) is a chocolate lover’s dream. Cool and cocoa- ¼-inch-thick slices. (See Note.)
sugar, cocoa, salt, and espresso powder; rich, our version is chock-full of roughly
pulse until hazelnuts are as finely ground as crushed biscuits (cookies), roasted hazelnuts *We used Ghirardelli 72% Intense Dark
possible, stopping to scrape sides of bowl. and pistachios, chocolate hazelnut spread, Chocolate, Lindt Classic Recipe Milk
4. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with and even a spritz of fresh orange zest and Chocolate, and Nutella.
the whisk attachment, beat egg whites juice for a citrusy kick.
at medium-high speed until foamy. With Note: For easier slicing, especially for logs
mixer on medium-high speed, gradually 7 ounces (198 grams) digestive biscuits, refrigerated for longer periods of time,
add remaining ⅓ cup (67 grams) sugar roughly crushed (about 2¼ cups) et stand at room temperature for 30 to
in a slow, steady stream, beating until ½ cup (66 grams) chopped roasted 40 minutes before slicing.
stiff peaks form. Gradually fold hazelnut unsalted hazelnuts
mixture into egg white mixture in three
CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT-FILLED dough, leaving a ½-inch border around
BISCOTTI edges. Sprinkle with half of very finely
Makes 22 to 24 biscotti chopped hazelnuts. Starting on one short
side and using parchment to help support,
This crunchy Italian classic gets a sweet roll up dough, jelly roll style. Pinch ends
and nutty chocolate-hazelnut swirl and to seal, and tuck edges under to create a
glaze, making it the perfect accompaniment rectangular block (about 1 inch tall). Place
to another Italian favorite, the cappuccino. dough, seam side down, on prepared pan.
Full of toasted, nutty crunch, these biscotti Repeat procedure with remaining dough,
are perfect for those craving a cookie with remaining chocolate hazelnut spread, and
texture. remaining very finely chopped hazelnuts.
Space dough rectangles 3 to 4 inches apart
½ cup (113 grams) unsalted butter, on prepared pan.
softened 5. Bake until golden brown and edges are
⅓ cup (67 grams) granulated sugar set, 35 to 40 minutes. (Dough will crack
¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light along the top a little—this is normal). Let
brown sugar cool on pan for 10 minutes. Leave oven on.
2 large eggs (100 grams), room 6. Carefully transfer dough to a cutting
temperature board. Using a serrated knife, carefully cut
1 teaspoon (6 grams) vanilla bean paste dough diagonally into ¾-inch-thick slices.
½ teaspoon (2 grams) almond extract Place slices, cut side down, 1 inch apart on
2¼ cups (281 grams) all-purpose flour parchment paper-lined baking sheets.
1 teaspoon (5 grams) baking powder 7. Bake until toasted and centers are
1 teaspoon (3 grams) kosher salt mostly dry and firm, 30 to 37 minutes (see
½ cup (154 grams) chocolate hazelnut Note), turning biscotti halfway through
spread* baking. Remove from pan, and let cool
3 tablespoons (24 grams) very finely completely on a wire rack.
chopped dry-roasted unsalted hazelnuts 8. Drizzle or spread Chocolate Hazelnut
Chocolate Hazelnut Glaze (recipe follows) Glaze onto cooled biscotti. Garnish with
Garnish: chopped dry-roasted hazelnuts chopped hazelnuts, if desired. Serve
immediately, or let stand until glaze is set,
1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Line a about 30 minutes.
baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with *We used Nutella.
the paddle attachment, beat butter and
sugars at medium speed until fluffy, about Note: This recipe produces crisp biscotti. If
3 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of you prefer yours with a slightly softer texture,
bowl. Beat in eggs, vanilla bean paste, and you can toast your biscotti for a shorter
almond extract. (Mixture may look a bit period of time.
broken, but dough will come together.)
3. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT GLAZE
baking powder, and salt. With mixer on Makes about ⅔ cup
low speed, gradually add flour mixture to
butter mixture, beating until combined. 1 cup (120 grams)
4. Divide dough in half. Shape half of confectioners’ sugar, sifted
dough into a rough 6½x5-inch rectangle. ¼ cup (77 grams) chocolate
(Keep remaining dough covered to prevent hazelnut spread
it from drying out.) Place dough rectangle 2 tablespoons (30 grams)
on a lightly floured sheet of parchment water
paper, and lightly flour top of dough; place ⅛ teaspoon kosher salt
another sheet of parchment on top of
dough. Roll dough between parchment 1. In a small bowl, stir together
into a 12x8-inch rectangle; lightly flour confectioners’ sugar, chocolate
dough on both sides to prevent sticking hazelnut spread, 2 tablespoons
as needed. Remove top parchment. (30 grams) water, and salt until
Using a small offset spatula, spread half smooth and well combined. Use
of chocolate hazelnut spread on top of immediately.
 CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT 1. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Spray
NEVER ENOUGH SBRISOLONA a 9-inch springform pan with baking spray
Makes 1 (9-inch) torta with flour. Line bottom and sides of pan
NOCCIOLA with parchment paper.
Nutella® has become a fast Traditionally a peasant dish created out 2. In a large bowl, whisk together cornmeal,
favorite of chocolate-hazelnut of very few ingredients, sbrisolona is a flour, granulated sugar, finely chopped
lovers. Here, we share a few favorite of the Lombardia region, specifically hazelnuts, brown sugar, baking powder,
more chocolate hazelnut the town of Mantua, near Lake Garda. and salt. Using hands, a pastry blender, or
spreads native to Italy. Loosely translated to mean “crumble cake,” 2 forks, cut in cold butter until mixture
our sbrisolona starts with the traditional is crumbly and butter is the size of small
Rigoni di Asiago Nocciolata cornmeal- and flour-based cake but gets a peas.
Hazelnut Spread (including a luxurious layer of chocolate hazelnut spread 3. In a small bowl, whisk together eggs
dairy-free variety!), available at in the center and a sprinkling of hazelnuts in and vanilla bean paste; add to cornmeal
the crumbly cake mixture as well as on top mixture, and mix with hands until
amazon.com of the cake. This rustic beauty is best served combined but mixture is still crumbly.
Pan di Stelle Cream Cocoa with espresso or a glass of vin santo, a type of Sprinkle half of dough crumbles (about
Hazelnut Spread, available at Italian dessert wine. 421 grams) evenly into bottom of prepared
pan, very gently patting (but not pressing)
yummybazaar.com or amazon.com
1⅔ cups (210 grams) fine-ground into an even layer.
Baci Perugina Hazelnut and cornmeal 4. In a small microwave-safe bowl, heat
Cocoa Spread, available at 1½ cups (200 grams) 00 flour* chocolate hazelnut spread on high in
yummybazaar.com ⅔ cup (133 grams) granulated sugar 10-second intervals, stirring between each,
½ cup (65 grams) finely chopped until loose and fluid. Spoon chocolate
Baratti & Milano Italian Hazelnut unsalted hazelnuts hazelnut spread into a small pastry or
Chocolate Spread, available at ¼ cup (55 grams) firmly packed light resealable plastic bag; cut a ½-inch opening
barattiandmilano.com brown sugar in tip or corner. Pipe over dough in pan,
1¾ teaspoons (8.75 grams) baking powder leaving about a ½-inch border; smooth
Amedei Crema Toscana alla ¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt into an even layer as needed. Sprinkle
Nocciola, available at amazon.com 7 tablespoons (98 grams) cold unsalted remaining dough crumbles evenly on top,
butter, cubed pressing into clumps as desired. Top with
Venchi Suprema Hazelnut Milk
2 large eggs (100 grams) chopped hazelnuts.
or Dark Chocolate Spread, 1 teaspoon (6 grams) vanilla bean paste 5. Bake until golden brown and set, 35 to
available at eataly.com 1¼ cups (382 grams) chocolate hazelnut 40 minutes, rotating pan halfway through
Babbi Hazelnut Spread (Crema spread baking and loosely covering with foil during
¼ cup (34 grams) chopped unsalted final 5 to 6 minutes of baking to prevent
Nocciole), available at eataly.com
hazelnuts excess browning. Let cool in pan on a wire
rack for 10 minutes. Remove sides of pan;
let cool completely on pan base on a wire
rack. Use a serrated knife to cut and serve.

*We used Anna Napoletana Unbleached Tipo

“00” Extra Fine Flour.
 Piemonte
Perfetto
STEP INSIDE FERNANDA GIAMELLO’S LAGHNE KITCHEN, WHERE
REGIONAL RECIPES ARE CELEBRATED IN HER COOKING CLASSES
BY BROOKE BELL / PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANN PAI / RECIPES BY FERNANDA GIAMELLO

I
n Fernanda Giamello’s kitchen, you won’t find her Fernanda grew up in nearby Barbaresco, an area known
using measuring cups, a scale, or a kitchen timer. for producing some of Italy’s best-valued wine from
She cooks, bakes, and teaches by sight and feel, Nebbiolo grapes, and Fernanda’s father preserved the
relying on her years making traditional Piemontese region’s heritage by raising and growing everything
recipes with her family. The results are rustic, humble, himself on their family farm. Not only did they have
and delicious. cows, sheep, pigs, rabbits, chickens, and goats, but her
father also grew grain, vegetables, and fruit.
Visit Fernanda at her home that’s tucked into a hillside
just outside the historic city center of Alba, and you “[It’s] important to learn tradition, the taste, the way
can see hazelnut orchards from her porch and laundry to grow,” says Fernanda. “Because of this, I don’t buy
drying on clotheslines in the sun. With doors left open from the supermarket. I know the taste and the way to
to usher in the breeze, her kitchen has that familiar feel prepare food.”
that embraces you like you’ve walked into your Italian
nonna’s kitchen. A large farm table, brilliantly topped When Fernanda was 12 years old, her father made a
with a stainless steel work surface, anchors the kitchen large oven. While he could’ve purchased an oven, he
and serves as a gathering spot for espresso. Elsewhere, made one. Every Saturday, Fernanda helped her dad
well-loved kitchen tools hang at the ready, antique bake bread and pizza for their friends. On Sundays, her
soup tureens are proudly displayed, and china cabinets mother made pasta. Anniversaries and holidays were
house vintage linens and dishware that Fernanda uses always celebrated with food, but her mother also made
throughout her classes. weekdays special by baking simple apple cakes
or crostata with hazelnuts and homemade jam.
 Fernanda kept these memories close during
her 13-year career as a social worker before
leaving her work to spend time at home with her
children. When some friends asked for help with
their wedding dinner, a new career was born,
and Fernanda began working with people in a
completely different way. Today, she welcomes
guests from around the world into her kitchen for
small, hands-on cooking classes.

“Meeting people is very beautiful,” says Fernanda.

“When people come into my kitchen, I completely
forget that it’s work for me. It’s an experience.”

When you take a class with Fernanda, you get

more than an experience. You get the opportunity
to learn authentic recipes in a home kitchen.
From baking baci di dama using local hazelnuts
to learning how to bring together pasta dough by
hand for plin, Fernanda walks you through each
recipe while recalling their history, sharing family
stories, and providing perfect moments along the
way. In Italy, it’s completely acceptable to stop
mid-class for aperitivo, where you can enjoy a
crisp glass of Arneis and a bite of local cheese with
honey and charcuterie. It’s just what is needed to
keep baking and cooking, preparing a lovely lunch
to linger over at the end of class.

To book a cooking class with Fernanda, email

[email protected]. You can also connect on
Instagram (@effefood).

GLOSSARIO | Nebbiolo Grapes: A red

wine grape grown in the Piemonte region. The
term “Nebbiolo” may refer to the Italian word
for fog (nebbia) as a rolling fog often settles
into the Langhe vineyards. Nebbiolo grapes
are used to make Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero,
and Camera wine varieties.

95 bake from scratch

BIOVA PIEMONTESE
Makes 8 rolls

According to Fernanda, biova are enjoyed

at every meal: with jam for breakfast, with
salami and cheese for aperitivo, for an
after-school snack (maybe with a smear of
chocolate hazelnut spread), and with dinner.
After a long ferment, portions of dough
are rolled into spirals before being smashed
through the middle. That’s right—smashed.
Fernanda uses a special wooden baker’s tool
purchased in Turin to give her biova their
rustic shape, but we found that a plastic bowl
scraper works well.

1½ cups (350 grams) water, room

temperature (70°F/21°C)
1¾ teaspoons (5 grams) active dry yeast
4¾ cups (603 grams) bread flour
2 teaspoons (10 grams) extra-virgin olive
oil
1 teaspoon (6 grams) fine sea salt

1. In a large bowl, whisk together

1½ cups (350 grams) water and yeast
until dissolved and well combined. Add
flour, and stir until combined. Add oil and GLOSSARIO | Aperitivo: A bittersweet, herbal liqueur often enjoyed right before
salt; knead dough until mostly smooth dinner. Campari, Aperol, and Martini Rosso are all famous Italian aperitivi you can
and homogeneous, about 5 minutes. enjoy from 6 p.m. to 8 p.m., the languid time between work and dinner.
(Dough will start out shaggy but will come
together.) Cover dough in bowl, and let rise
in a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) GRISSINI 1. In a large bowl, combine flour and
for at least 10 hours. Makes 54 to 60 breadsticks 1⅔ cups (400 grams) water. Let stand for
2. On a very lightly floured surface, knead 15 minutes. Add yeast and sugar; knead
dough for 2 minutes. Cover and let stand Grissini are crunchy, slender breadsticks until combined. Add oil and salt; knead
for 10 minutes. that make an appearance on most restaurant until a soft, elastic, smooth dough forms,
3. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment and aperitivo tables around Italy. Though 5 to 7 minutes. Cover dough in bowl; let
paper. their shape and name changes as you travel stand at room temperature for at least
4. Divide dough into 4 portions (about throughout the country, the history of grissini 10 hours.
237 grams each). Shape each portion into is linked to Turin, the capital of the Piemonte. 2. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). Line
about a 16-inch log and flatten slightly; And while only a few ingredients are needed baking sheets with parchment paper.
starting from one short side, roll up dough, to make grissini, most Italians choose to 3. Punch down dough; let stand for
jelly roll style, into a standing snail-like purchase them instead of baking at home. 10 minutes. On a very lightly corn flour or
shape with seam side facing down. Using a But they are incredibly satisfying to make, so cornmeal dusted surface, divide dough into
plastic bench scraper held perpendicular to in honor of Fernanda’s dad’s philosophy, why small strips (about 0.75 ounces or
work surface, cut each in half lengthwise buy what you can bake at home? 21 grams each). Roll into about 15-inch
from spiraled side to spiraled side. Place, ropes; holding ropes from both ends, shake
cut side up, on prepared pans. Cover with 5¾ cups plus 3 tablespoons (754 grams) dough up and down in cornmeal or corn
very lightly greased plastic wrap; let rise in bread flour flour to help lengthen. Place 1 inch apart
a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) for 1⅔ cups (400 grams) water, room on prepared pans.
at least 30 minutes. temperature (70°F/21°C) 4. Bake, one batch at a time, until golden,
5. Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C). 3¼ teaspoons (10 grams) active dry yeast 10 to 15 minutes. Let cool completely.
6. Bake for 15 minutes. Reduce oven 1 teaspoon (4 grams) granulated sugar Store in a bread bag or airtight container
temperature to 350°F (180°C), and bake ⅓ cup plus 1 teaspoon (80 grams) extra- for several days.
until golden and crusty, about 15 minutes virgin olive oil
more. 2½ teaspoons (15 grams) fine sea salt
Corn flour or plain cornmeal, for dusting
july | august 2022 98
99 bake from scratch
BACI DI DAMA
Makes about 90 sandwich cookies

Baci di dama, which translates to “lady’s

kisses,” are a traditional Piemontese recipe.
These marble-size cookies are made from
ground hazelnuts and sandwiched together
with melted chocolate. Fernanda says these
incredibly poppable and addictive cookies tell
the story of the region, and they do. When
hazelnuts met chocolate, perfection ensued.

¾ cup plus 2 teaspoons (100 grams)

all-purpose flour
1 cup plus 2 teaspoons (100 grams)
finely ground hazelnut flour
7 tablespoons (98 grams) firmly packed
light brown sugar
7 tablespoons (98 grams) unsalted
butter, cubed and room temperature
Pinch fine sea salt
⅓ cup (50 grams) 70% cacao dark
chocolate, melted

1. Preheat oven to 325°F (170°C). Line

3 baking sheets with parchment paper.
2. In a large bowl, place all-purpose
flour, and make a well in the center.
Add hazelnut flour, brown sugar, butter,
and salt. Knead together by hand until
combined and a dough forms.
3. Scoop dough (about a rounded
¼ teaspoon or 2 grams each; see Notes),
and gently shape into ½- to 5⁄8-inch balls.
Place ¾ inch apart on prepared pans.
4. Bake, one batch at a time, until tops
appear dry and set, 7 to 12 minutes.
(Bottoms will be lightly golden, but warm
cookies will still be quite tender to touch;
see Notes.) Let cool completely on pans on
wire racks.
5. Spread a small amount of melted
chocolate on flat side of 1 cooled cookie;
place another cookie, flat side down, on
top of chocolate. Repeat with remaining
cookies and remaining melted chocolate.

Notes: We provided a volume and gram

measurement for dough balls as a reference,
but feel free to eyeball the appropriate size
when portioning dough.

This is a very tender dough, so be gentle while

shaping into balls, and let cool completely on
pans before attempting to touch or move.

july | august 2022 100

 RAVIOLI DEL “PLIN” AL BURRO
E SALVIA
Makes 6 to 8 servings

You haven’t truly had pasta until you’ve had

Fernanda’s handmade plin and tagliatelle
pasta. Plin, which refers to the pinch made to
close each piece of pasta, is the ravioli shape
typical of the Langhe. It’s often filled with a
mixture of ground meats, grated cheese, and
eggs. The simplest of sauces, melted butter and
fresh sage, lets the filling and egg-rich pasta
shine. The same pasta dough can easily be
hand-cut into tagliatelle, which needs nothing
more than butter and chopped hazelnuts.

Filling:
7 ounces (198 grams) roasted veal,
cubed
4.5 ounces (128 grams) roasted pork loin,
cubed
3.5 ounces (100 grams) boiled rice
1.75 ounces (50 grams) sautéed spinach
1.75 ounces (50 grams) grated Parmesan
cheese
1 large egg (50 grams)
Fine sea salt, to taste
Ground black pepper, to taste

Pasta:
4 cups plus 2 tablespoons (550 grams)
00 flour
¼ teaspoon (1.5 grams) fine sea salt
4 large eggs (200 grams)
3 large egg yolks (56 grams)
3 to 4 tablespoons (45 to 60 grams) and working back together, until a firm, remaining pasta and remaining filling.
water, if needed elastic, smooth dough forms. (You may have some filling left over.)
Sauce: 3. Divide dough into 4 tennis ball-size 5. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to
1 cup (227 grams) unsalted butter portions. Flatten and lightly flour each a boil. Add ravioli, and cook until they float
Fresh sage leaves piece. Using a pasta machine, roll dough to surface, 1 to 2 minutes. Drain well.
into very thin sheets. 6. For sauce: In a large saucepan, cook
Garnish: freshly grated Parmesan cheese, 4. Working with 1 sheet at a time, place butter over medium heat until melted.
thinly shaved white truffle pasta on a floured surface with a long side Stir in sage, and remove from heat. Coat
closest to you. Spoon or pipe small mounds cooked ravioli in sauce. Garnish with
1. For filling: In the work bowl of a food of filling (about a rounded ¼ teaspoon or cheese and white truffle, if desired.
processor, place veal and pork; pulse a few 2 grams each) along long edge of pasta,
times until chopped. Add rice and spinach; leaving about a ¼-inch (½-centimeter)
pulse until mixture is finely chopped. Add border around each mound. Fold pasta CUT YOUR OWN TAGLIATELLE
cheese, egg, salt, and pepper; pulse until over just so filling is covered, pressing to Divide rolled pasta sheets into
well combined, stopping to scrape sides of seal; if needed, lightly trace water around sections, if needed. On a floured
bowl and stirring by hand if needed. each mound to help pasta adhere. Apply a surface, flour top of one pasta sheet;
2. For pasta: On a clean surface, place flour little pressure with your thumb and index starting from one short side, roll pasta
and salt in a mound; make a hole in center. finger in space between each mound of sheet up, flouring as needed. Using a
Add eggs and egg yolks. Begin drawing filling. Using a fluted pastry wheel, cut sharp knife, cut rolled pasta crosswise
flour into eggs with your fingertips, mixing filled pasta into one long rope; cut between into 1⁄8- to ¼-inch-thick (0.33- to
to combine into a sticky dough, adding filling mounds in one motion, starting from 0.5-centimeter-thick) slices. Toss
water a little at a time, if needed; gently folded side. Place ravioli on a lightly floured pasta slices in flour after cutting. •
knead, pinching egg mixture into pieces rimmed baking sheet. Repeat process with

101 bake from scratch

july | august 2022 102
 My
ROMAN
BREAKFAST
QUEST
A DELICIOUS, CARB-FILLED MISSION
THROUGH ANCIENT ROMA

BY BRIAN HART HOFFMAN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOANN PAI

P
izza for breakfast? Yes, it’s a thing.
When I visited Roma (Rome) to
produce this issue, I was amazed
by the number of people lined up for a slice
of pizza to start their day. Pizza was only
part of the reason I wanted to go on the
ultimate Roman breakfast quest. When the
Rome episode of Stanley Tucci: Searching
for Italy aired, I learned about maritozzo
and knew I had to discover it for myself. I
turned to author Katie Parla as a trusted
source for food in Rome and asked her to
show me around her home city. Those of
you who know me know I don’t get up early
for much, but the bakeries we visited made
the early alarm worth it.
GLOSSARIO

Colazione:
breakfast, or the
first meal of the day
First up was a trip to Panificio Bonci in the Prati
neighborhood for its famed pizza bianca. Gabriele Bonci,
owner and master baker, is one of Italy’s most important
baking figures, and he’s essentially reengineered Roman
pizza, from the grain up. At first sight, you might think
this flatbread is focaccia, but it’s not. I learned that pizza
bianca isn’t enriched and doesn’t have a second rise. You
can enjoy it on its own as an incredible piece of bread or
have it split and stuffed with mortadella before getting
a generous douse of olive oil. Bonci has plenty of other
sweet and savory items that will tempt you, including its
supplì, the Roman version of arancini, a cheesy fried rice
ball, and, of course, maritozzo. But that will have to wait.

With pizza on my mind, we continued to Antico Forno

Roscioli near the Campo de’ Fiori, where I queued with
Romans headed to school and work for a savory slice of
pizza rossa. While this bustling bakery was founded in
1972, the building itself was established as a bakery in
1824. Today, it’s a hot spot for this traditional breakfast
pizza, among other things. An extra-virgin olive oil-
enriched tomato sauce tops the raw dough of the rossa
before being baked. There’s no cheese. No toppings. Just
sauce and the crispiest crust I’ve ever eaten.

Extremely happy from my two pizza adventures, I

took in the incredible history around me as we walked
past the Foro Romano (Roman Forum) and Colosseo
(Colosseum). By the time I reached Pasticceria Regoli,
I was practically giddy thinking about tasting my first
maritozzo. But before I tell you about that experience,
let me tell you about Regoli, which has been a family
business for more than 100 years. The Regolis originally
hailed from Tuscany, where they were charcoal makers.
Today, the bakery cases are full of delightful items, from
cannoli to some of the most beautiful cakes I saw in
Italy. They even have a coffee shop next door, where I
immediately spotted the pass-through window where
pastries are delivered to guests standing at the counter
for coffee. My kind of place!
But now, for my first taste of maritozzo . . . This old-
school Roman brioche-style bun is split and loaded with
whipped cream. I mean loaded. After my first bite, I can
declare it my favorite breakfast. Ever. There’s no denying
a soft bun filled with cream. It was truly transformational.

Don’t worry! There was still another breakfast pastry to

try: the cornetto. I stopped in the relatively new Casa
Manfredi, where all the pastries are made in-house,
including this Italian staple. The cornetto, named for
its shape featuring two “horns,” is made from Italian
brioche laminated with layers of butter, which gives it a
denser texture when compared to its French cousin, the
croissant. Casa Manfredi has plenty of café tables out
front where you can laze about and plan your next stop.

After a full morning—literally—we needed coffee. Katie

and I popped into Faro Caffè, the first independent
specialty coffee shop in Rome, where you’ll find more
than espresso and cappuccino. Here, at a funky coffee
shop that breaks all the proverbial rules, I learned that
there’s basic coffee etiquette visitors should follow.
Cappuccino shouldn’t be taken after lunch, only espresso,
and espresso should be taken in one sip. Caffeinated and
energized, I was ready for my next discovery. That’s the
incredible thing about Rome: surprise, beauty, and history
is around every corner.

Visiting Roma? Book a walking food tour with Katie, and

she will work with you to customize an itinerary. Connect
with her at katieparla.com or on Instagram (@katieparla).

Faro Caffè
GO THERE: Via Piave, 55
Antico farorome.com
Forno Roscioli
Via dei Chiavari, 34 Panificio Bonci
anticofornoroscioli.it Via Trionfale, 36
bonci.it
Casa Manfredi
Viale Aventino, 91/93 Pasticceria Regoli
casamanfredi.it Via dello Statuto, 60
pasticceriaregoli.com
origin of a classic

Maritozzi
THESE PILLOWY, WHIPPED CREAM-PACKED BUNS DATE ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE
MIDDLE AGES, BUT DUE TO A RECENT RISE IN POPULARITY, ROMANS, AS WELL AS
THE REST OF THE WORLD, ARE REDISCOVERING THE WONDERS OF MARITOZZI
BY OLIVIA KAVANAGH
RECIPE DEVELOPMENT BY TRICIA MANZANERO STUEDEMAN
 Devonshire splits also closely resemble maritozzi but are

N
o visit to Italy is complete without the uniquely
Italian experience of sitting under the bright sun filled with clotted cream and jam, similar to how one might
of an Italian summer, sipping away at an espresso, enjoy other traditional teatime treats like British scones.
and savoring the sweet splendor of a fresh maritozzo served Chinese bakeries are also no stranger to these beautiful
alongside it. A pillowy, yeasted bun practically bursting with buns, with Hong Kong varieties often getting glazed with a
cloudlike whipped cream, it beckons all those around to take a sweet coconut syrup before being filled with whipped cream
bite. Sweet summertime splendor, and the very essence of la (though some come served without any cream filling at all,
dolce vita, in a single bun. With a maritozzo for breakfast and letting the sweet bun shine). But perhaps the closest to
a leisurely morning ahead, life truly is just a little bit sweeter. the maritozzi is the Scottish cream bun, which, aside from
its shaping, is nearly identical, with its rich outer bun and
Thought to be inspired by various other honey-sweetened whipped cream filling.
loaves already in existence, as well as pagnotelle, a type
of savory filled bun made to fit into the saddlebags of Should you find yourself in Rome looking for one of these
laborers who needed a source of sustenance on the go, subtly sweet pastries, you have a couple of options. To start,
maritozzi quickly became popular thanks to none other than one couldn’t talk about maritozzi without mentioning the
the Roman Catholic Church. The maritozzo first gained famed Pasticceria Regoli, an artisan pastry shop founded in
widespread appeal in Rome in the Middle Ages, as the church 1916 in the heart of Rome. Pasticceria Regoli produces all its
allowed it to be eaten during the traditional period of fasting desserts following the most ancient recipes, letting years of
during Lent. As for its name, maritozzo is derived from marito, tradition speak for themselves. On offer, the classic, colossally
the Italian word for “husband.” Some say that this is because sized maritozzo with cream and the quaresimale, or the
prospective husbands used to give maritozzi decorated with Lenten maritozzo, smaller in size and studded with candied
sugar to their brides-to-be, hiding a ring or small precious fruit and raisins. Then there are newer establishments like
object in the center to propose. Another legend says the Maritozzo Rosso that are redefining all that maritozzi can be.
girls who made the best maritozzi were more likely to be the With a menu full of fun and creative savory combinations,
first to find husbands. Maritozzi were even a token of love like maritozzo with sautéed escarole, olives, and pine nuts or
shared on the first Friday of March between couples, serving maritozzo with Genoese-style lamb meatballs, the possibilities
as a type of Valentine’s Day-like gift. Given their irresistible are endless for those daring enough to step outside tradition.
appeal, it’s no wonder maritozzi became a symbol of love.

Around the 1950s and ’60s, maritozzi reached peak

popularity, with the simple sweet offered at nearly every caffè
and pasticceria in Rome. Since then, the cornetti, an Italian
pastry that falls somewhere between a croissant and brioche,
has taken over the Italian caffè counter. (If you’re looking
for something similar, be sure to check out our Chifferi
recipe on page 73.) However, due to a recent resurgence
in popularity, it seems maritozzi are everywhere once
again. Traditionally, the long buns were dotted with raisins,
sometimes accompanied by pine nuts and candied orange
peel, and then split and filled to the brim with panna, a subtly
sweetened whipped cream. Today, a simpler variety, made
up of an enriched bun filled with panna, reigns supreme. And
though originally intended to be a breakfast bun, maritozzi
have evolved to include a range of fillings, even savory ones,
and to be eaten at any time of the day.

And Romans are not the only ones known for their
sweet, cream-filled buns. In Sweden, there’s the semla.
Traditionally eaten on Shrove Tuesday, the bun is
flavored with cardamom and then filled with almond
paste and whipped cream. Roombroodjes, or cream
rolls, are a Dutch specialty, shaped to be slightly more
oblong than maritozzi and filled with rich and creamy
pastry cream instead of the classic whipped cream.
Bakers in the US are even trying their
hand at Italian tradition. Born + Bread
Bakehouse in Lakeland, Florida, fills its buns
with the traditional whipped cream but adds
fresh Florida strawberries for a burst of
sweet flavor. Hana Quon, the pastry chef at
Cafe Madeleine in Boston, Massachusetts,
created a Ferrerotozzi Rocher, filled with
chocolate Chantilly cream and hazelnut
praline and then dipped in chocolate and
toasted hazelnuts and dusted with cocoa
powder. When it comes to maritozzi, the
sky is the limit.

Every year in Rome, the beginning of

December is marked with a day celebrating
the magnificent maritozzo, with vendors
across Rome selling the sweet in all forms
and flavor combinations. Unfortunately,
we don’t all have the luxury of being able to
jet off to Rome for one of these delicious
buns—and we would never ask you to wait
until December to celebrate it—so we’ve
created a recipe to enjoy anytime and
anywhere. Whether you’re yearning to woo
your sweetheart with Italian tradition or
simply looking to take a piece of Rome into
your home kitchen, these maritozzi are the
perfect recipe to add a little decadence to
your day.

MARITOZZI
Makes 10 buns

Starting with a pillowy dough enriched with

olive oil and infused with lemon zest, we filled
our buns with a lusciously light and creamy
Vanilla Whipped Cream. These buns will bring
a taste of Italy to your very own kitchen,
regardless of location.

Preferment:
¼ cup (60 grams) warm water
(110°F/43°C to 115°F/46°C)
1 teaspoon (3 gram) active dry yeast
½ teaspoon (2 grams) granulated sugar
½ cup (63 grams) all-purpose flour

Dough:
½ cup (120 grams) warm whole milk
(110°F/43°C to 115°F/46°C)
1¼ teaspoons (4 grams) active dry yeast
3 to 3¼ cups (375 to 406 grams)
all-purpose flour, divided
2 large eggs (100 grams), room
temperature
 MARITOZZO SHAPING
¼ cup (56 grams) olive oil into a 4-inch-wide disk. Starting with top
3½ tablespoons (42 grams) granulated edge or one 4½-inch-long side, fold and
sugar roll dough, about ½ inch at a time, gently
1 tablespoon (21 grams) honey pressing to seal after each roll. Repeat
2 teaspoons (6 grams) kosher salt until you have a cylinder, and firmly pinch
1½ teaspoons (4 grams) tightly packed seam to seal. Pinch ends closed; fold in,
lemon zest and pinch to secure. Roll seam to bottom,
1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract and gently roll to form an evenly thick
1 large egg (50 grams), lightly beaten 5- to 5½-inch-long log. Repeat with
1 tablespoon (15 grams) whole milk remaining dough. Place, seam side down,
2 to 2½ inches apart on prepared pans.
Vanilla Whipped Cream (recipe follows) Cover and let rise in a warm, draft-free
place (75°F/24°C) until nearly doubled in 1. Starting with top edge or one
1. For preferment: In a medium bowl, whisk size and dough holds an indentation when 4½-inch-long side, fold and roll dough,
together ¼ cup (60 grams) warm water, poked, 45 minutes to about ½ inch at a time, gently pressing
yeast, and sugar. Let stand until foamy, 1 hour. to seal after each roll.
5 to 10 minutes. Stir in flour until well 8. Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C).
combined; cover and let stand in a warm, 9. In a small bowl, whisk together beaten
draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until mixture egg and milk. Brush tops of buns with egg
is puffed and bubbly, 40 minutes to 1 hour. wash.
(Mixture will start thick but will loosen as 10. Bake, one batch at a time, until golden
it sits.) brown, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from
2. For dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer, pans, and let cool completely on wire racks.
whisk together warm milk and yeast by 11. Using a serrated knife held
hand until combined and dissolved. Add perpendicular to cutting surface, split rolls
preferment, 1 cup (125 grams) flour, room lengthwise down center, stopping just short
temperature eggs, oil, sugar, honey, salt, before cutting all the way through. Divide
lemon zest, and vanilla; using the paddle Vanilla Whipped Cream evenly among buns
2. Repeat until you have a cylinder,
attachment, beat at low speed until (about ¾ cup or 90 grams each). Using a
combined, 1 to 2 minutes, stopping to small offset spatula, let the contours of the and firmly pinch seam to seal.
scrape sides of bowl. Gradually add bread act as a guide as you spread, sculpt,
2 cups (250 grams) flour, beating just and round the cream as needed. Serve
until combined. immediately.
3. Switch to the dough hook attachment.
Beat at low speed until a soft, elastic, Note: To use the windowpane test to check
somewhat sticky dough forms, 7 to dough for proper gluten development, lightly
10 minutes, stopping to scrape sides of flour hands and pinch off (don’t tear) a small
bowl and dough hook; add up to remaining piece of dough. Slowly pull the dough out
¼ cup (31 grams) flour, 1 tablespoon from the center. If the dough is ready, you
(8 grams) at a time, if dough is overly will be able to stretch it until it’s thin and
sticky. (Dough should pass the windowpane translucent like a windowpane. If the dough
test [see Note] but may still stick to tears, it’s not quite ready. Beat for 1 minute, 3. Pinch ends closed; fold in, and pinch
bottom and sides of bowl.) and test again. to secure.
4. Oil a large bowl. Place dough in bowl,
turning to grease top. Cover and let rise in VANILLA WHIPPED CREAM
a warm, draft-free place (75°F/24°C) until Makes about 7 cups
doubled in size, 1 to 1½ hours.
5. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment 3½ cups (840 grams) cold heavy whipping
paper. cream
6. Punch down dough; cover and let stand ½ cup (100 grams) granulated sugar
for 10 minutes. On a very lightly floured 1 teaspoon (4 grams) vanilla extract
surface, divide dough into 10 portions ¼ teaspoon kosher salt
(about 82 grams each). Gently shape each
portion into a ball, pinching any seams to 1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
seal. Cover and let stand for 20 minutes. the whisk attachment, beat all ingredients
7. On a lightly floured surface, place at medium-high speed until medium-stiff 4. Roll seam to bottom, and gently roll
1 dough ball seam side up; press or roll peaks form. Use immediately. to form an evenly thick 5- to 5½-inch-
long log. •

july | august 2022 112

fast-²x baking

AMARETTI AMORE
A QUICK, CHEWY TAKE ON THE ITALIAN CLASSIC
SOFT AMARETTI COOKIES granulated sugar; pulse until almonds are
Makes about 28 cookies finely ground, stopping to scrape sides of
bowl. Add ¼ cup (30 grams) confectioners’
Derived from the Italian word for bitter (amaro), sugar and salt; pulse until combined. Add egg
the almond-rich amaretti cookie popped up in whites, one at a time, pulsing until combined
Italy in the Middle Ages. Though they can often after each addition. Add extracts, and pulse
be crunchy like biscotti, our fast take on these just until a dough forms.
crinkly cookies promises a soft, chewy crumb 3. In a small wide bowl, place remaining ½ cup
and unparalleled sweet almond flavor. (100 grams) granulated sugar. In another
small wide bowl, place remaining ½ cup
10 ounces (284 grams) blanched almonds, (60 grams) confectioners’ sugar.
lightly toasted (about 1¾ cups) 4. Scoop dough by tablespoonfuls (about
(see Notes) 18 grams each), and roll into balls. Roll dough
1¼ cups (250 grams) granulated sugar, balls in granulated sugar; roll in confectioners’
divided sugar. Place 1 to 1½ inches apart on prepared
¾ cup (90 grams) confectioners’ sugar, pans.
divided 5. Bake, one batch at a time, until tops are
¾ teaspoon (2.25 grams) kosher salt cracked, bottoms are golden, and edges are
2 large egg whites (60 grams), room set but still give slightly when pressed, 20 to
temperature 24 minutes, rotating pan halfway through
¾ teaspoon (3 grams) almond extract baking. Let cool on pan for 5 minutes.
¾ teaspoon (3 grams) vanilla extract Remove from pan, and let cool completely
on wire racks.
1. Preheat oven to 300°F (150°C). Line
2 baking sheets with parchment paper. Notes: If you can’t find blanched almonds,
2. In the work bowl of a food processor, you can always blanch your own. In a large
combine almonds and ¾ cup (150 grams) heatproof bowl, cover desired amount of
almonds with boiling water. Let stand for
1 minute; thoroughly drain in a fine-mesh sieve,
and run under cold water. Pinch, peel off, and
discard almond skins. Pat blanched almonds
completely dry before prepping as directed.

To toast, bake blanched almonds at 350°F

(180°C) until lightly toasted, 4 to
7 minutes, stirring occasionally. •
 FROM SCRATCH
®

Announcing our 2022

BAKING
RETREATS
SAVE THE DATE!
It’s time to take an adventure the Bake from Scratch way.

Our 2022 baking retreats will satisfy the wanderlust cravings

of the most intrepid bakers. You’ll learn top tips for baking
French pastries in Lyon, master pie-baking in
New England, and step inside our new test kitchen in
Birmingham, Alabama, to get ready for the holidays!

A DELICIOUS PREVIEW OF OUR RETREATS

MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA NEW ENGLAND
CAKE BAKING October dates to be announced soon!
JUNE 22-26
BIRMINGHAM, ALABAMA
HOLIDAY BAKING IN THE BRAND-NEW
SAN FRANCISCO AND THE BAKE FROM SCRATCH TEST KITCHEN

CALIFORNIA WINE COUNTRY

Dates to be announced soon!

All you need to do is pack your bags—the aprons will be waiting for you.
For all of the delicious details on these retreats and to register, go to bakefromscratch.com/baking-retreats,
and to stay up to date on all our baking retreat announcements, sign up for our newsletter, PreHeat!
For retreat-related questions, email [email protected].