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SNAP BUTTONS
On 27th Feb ’22 @ 5-6 PM
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Presentation by
1
Ashok Kumar
 Button / Snap Attachment Strength Testing Equipment:
• Objective: To clearly define the procedures for all Quality Inspectors when auditing
garments having snaps.

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SNAP BUTTONS:

• Snap buttons have four parts including cap, socket, stud and post.
• Part A is made of cap and socket.
• Part B is composed of stud and post.
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Button / Snap Attachment Strength Testing Equipment:
• Button snap pull tester, helps to determine the holding or
breaking strength of prong-ring attached snap fasteners onto
garments, also button pull tester applies for compression and
tensile testing of small samples using the special
attachments.

• The snap component is gripped by the Upper Snap Clamp

and the garment is fixed to the lower Fabric Clamp. By turning
the hand wheel, the operator can apply a specific force and
the holding force or the breaking strength can be recorded.
The capability of the snap tester can be enhanced with
clamps & accessories for testing of other Snaps, Jean
Buttons, Four Hole Buttons & Garments Accessories such as
Zippers, Bows, Appliqué, Toggles, Hooks/Bars, and D-Rings,
amongst others, beyond these, you will find more
applications for this push pull test equipment for your testing
purpose.

• **** Please remember to wear your Safety glasses when

conducting testing for Metal Trims.
• Operators / Workers should be fully aware of the Snap
attaching machinery being used especially the situation when
the emergency stop required
4 etc. for safety.
Clamps & Grips:
Assessment of snap attachment strength is to be conducted with a force measuring device and appropriate
clamp devices from below list…

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Clamps & Grips:
Assessment of snap attachment strength is to be conducted with a force measuring device and appropriate
clamp devices from below list…

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Other Safety Equipment's:
Garment that have Snaps, Buttons, or other
small accessories that can detach or become
broken may require additional testing. These
tests can include sharp point and sharp edge
testing, impact testing and broken needle
detection.

Small Parts Cylinder:

• To define a part or breakable part if it is a small part.
• Used to determine if products intended for use by children under
3 Years of age present choking, aspiration, or ingestion hazard
because of small parts. If any object can fit completely into the
cylinder without compressing in any direction, it is define as a
“Small Part” the toy or product is banned because the small part
presents a choking hazard.

• Internal dimensions (1.25”) simulate the fully expanded throat of a

child under 3 years of age.
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Small Parts Cylinder:

Testing the Strength of Attachments and ensuring

there are No Small Parts Hazards.
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Other Safety Equipments:
Button Impact Tester:
• To test whether plastic buttons are easily breakable.
• Used to determine the impact resistance of plastic sew-through
flange buttons to a falling mass of 0.8 kg (29.5 oz) released from a
height of 67 mm (2,675”). Instrument can be set to other heights
as required. Cracking, Chipping, or Breakage Constitute as
Failure.
Conveyer Type Needle Detector:
• To check whether broken needles or metal contaminated.
• Free standing digital Needle Detector with Conveyor. Instrument
accepts non-metals and all approved non-ferrous zips and poppers
and will reject any ferrous and nickel contamination, typically staples
and needle fragments equivalent to 1.0 mm ferrous sphere. In case of
a reject, the belt will stop with an audible alarm and signal light is
activated. Instrument has full digital controls.
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Snap Test Methods:
• Pinch Testing:
❖Machine Pinch Setting readings are the compressed fabric thickness at the Snap Attaching Area
measured using Vernier Calliper which is provided on the GCR Report / Technical Data Sheet from
a Snap supplier

• Close Open Close (Snapping / Unsnapping) Testing Method:

❖CLOSED-OPEN- CLOSE: All garments chosen must be manually inspected (by hand) and
evaluated 'CLOSED -OPEN-CLOSE‘ using reasonable force

❖VISUAL TESTING METHOD: This is to inspect Snaps have no sharp edges and ensure the
placement of snap is not on an uneven surface / Stitches / Seams, etc...
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Snap Test Methods:
• Resistance to Unsnapping of Snap:
❖ All garments selected must be tested using the 'THE PULL TEST MACHINE' to record the findings of
unsnapping force.

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Snap Test Methods: Continue …
• Attachment Strength of Snap:

❖ All garments selected must be tested using 'PULL TEST MACHINE' to record the attachment strength of
Snap. (make sure all snaps can withstand / pass (50 N if Diameter is below 6 mm / 70 N if Diameter is above
6 mm) during 10sec (or) as per Customer requirement).

❖ The nature of the failure needs to be recorded (i.e. snap separation, fabric rupture, etc.) which will help to take
corrective action plan (CAP).

The above Snap Test Methods / standards applies to the compliance of the below listed metal & plastic
attachments….
• Metal snap buttons
• Rivets
• Eyelets
• Metal shank buttons
• Plastic snap / rivets
• Waist fasteners like hook and bar

***** During development stages (Proto) itself for styles with snaps and metal trims, Brand / Buyers, Designers,
Vendor Merchandisers, Technicians, Production, IE’s, QA should conduct a Risk Analysis review on that style and
steps to be taken to avoid the Risk during Production and Customer Usage.
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CRIMPING ELEMENTS: Press Fasteners, Eyelet, Spikes, Rivets, Staples and Endcaps
GENERAL INFORMATION:
Press Fasteners Machine and Die Set:
The use of an automatic press fasteners machine is required, with electronic or pneumatic actuation. For each element
only the matrix (Die-Set) suitable supplied by the supplier must be used for crimping.

Material Thickness in the area of Crimping:

In order to guarantee the strength of the elements, there must be no difference in the thickness of the material in the
crimping area.

Laying on a Narrow Band (Strap, Flange, Flanging)

The Strip must be wider than the element to allow good laying conditions and the strength of the element.

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SMALL PARTS & ELEMENTS:
SNAP BUTTON:

• They are required for Woven Fabric.

• Laying on Minimum of 2 Layers

• Plastic Washers are not permitted. When using a washer, use a felted
washer.
Attention, the height of the tube must be adapted to the thickness of
the material.

POPPER PRONG SNAP:

• They are required for jersey fabric.
• Laying on 3 layers minimum

Attention, for thick jersey, prefer to add a reinforcement as third thickness

(interlacing, fusible interlining), rather than using (3) thicknesses of the material.

Attention, the height of the teeth must be adapted to the thickness of the
material (ex: triple height of teeth for sponge velvet, thick fleece)

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SMALL PARTS & ELEMENTS:

EYELETS:
Laying on minimum of 2 layers

For Jersey and other extensible fabrics, the use of a

Blocking Reinforcement is necessary in order to guarantee
good crimping and holding of the eyelet.

SPIKES, RIVETS:

Laying on minimum of 2 Layers.

For Jersey and other extensible fabrics, the use of a

Blocking Reinforcement is necessary in order to guarantee
good crimping and holding of the Spikes and Rivets.

Attention, the height of the tub must be adapted to the

thickness of the material.

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EXAMPLES OF PRESS FASTENER ATTACHMENTS:

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EXAMPLES OF PRESS FASTENER ATTACHMENTS:

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TRIM INSPECTION AT WAREHOUSE:

• Trims must be evaluated for conformity and consistency to the approved design and safety requirement.
• Vendors are required to conduct a random visual audit of all received shipments of snaps prior to start
production.
• 10% of the accessories (snaps) checked for quality as per sampling procedure and no tolerance is given.
• Weighing scale to be used to check the weight of the accessories (snaps). Quantity and Weight of the single
pack (one gross of snaps) is checked; Based on this, the remaining 100% of the quantity is checked.

Snaps and Buttons process:

• Records of machine calibration.

• Every snap has its own matrix (Die-set) (delivered together with the snaps – need to see the matrix stock
and records).
• There is an internal control of snaps attachment Twice per Day / Shift. Snap puller machine has to be used
on daily quality inspection by vendors (need records) for testing on Morning & Afternoon.
• Operator safety on snap attachment equipment.
• Only semi- or fully automatic pneumatic/electric presses should be used to apply snaps on products.
• Under No Circumstances garment manufacturers use manually operated (by foot or by hand) presses.
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Snap Selection / Attaching / Checking:
• Following points to systemize the snap button checking.

A. Selection of the snaps based on fabric types (Tube snap vs Gripper snaps differentiation and its suitability)

A. Correct Die-sets (Original) to the correct snaps

B. Use of Reinforcements
C. Attachment on the even layer of the fabric
D. Prongs suitability to the fabric and seam type
E. Pressure necessary to fix the snaps (Open / Closure pressure) – Snaps should press together easily.
F. Snap Seating – No Space between material and component.
G. Functional or decorative use
H. Correct sampling plan
I. Force necessary to apply during test, depends on the button diameter while doing pull test

***Snap fasteners must not be ordered until the Approved Snap Fastener Data Sheet / GCR Report
is received from Snap Supplier to the Garment Manufacturer.

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 Snap / Metal Accessories Ordering Process:
Remarks :
❖ The garment supplier is responsible to make
sure all snaps can pass (50 N if Diameter is
below 6 mm / 70 N if Diameter is above 6
mm) during 10sec. (Varies based on Brand
Standard)
❖ We strongly recommend garment supplier to
have the pulling test machine in its own
factory and make regular in house checking
for each Machine on Daily Basis (Twice per
Day).
❖ In case of any doubts about button
attachment, garment supplier to interact
with snap supplier for further testing,
adjustment and instructions.
❖ When making mock-up make sure that to
use correct fabric quality for every part of
the garment (including lining, bottom hem,
padding, number of layers…) as the key
point to choose the correct snap depends on
the thickness of the area to attach the trim.
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Pre-production Setup/Testing:

Prior to commencing production each stud application machine must be correctly setup as per
nominated Snap supplier’s instructions provided on their Technical Datasheet / GCR Report.
Fabric:
• All fabric qualities must be in both correct thicknesses and production quality including finishes
such as peach or brush levels that can affect fabric strength and thus security of attachment.
• If style is washed, the mock up must also be washed to correct recipe as heavy washing, enzymes,
bleach and sanding finishes can affect the strength of the fabric and thus the security of the
attachment.
• Sewing construction and Number of layers for each fabric must be accurate.
Fusing:
Fusing Quality must be correct. If garment washed and the fusing is to be attached after washing,
then the mock sample must be washed prior to attaching fusing and accessory. If fusing is to be
applied and then garment washed, then same should apply to mock up.
The number of layers of fusing should be accurate and be fused to the correct fabric quality.

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Snap Supplier Technical Data Sheet / GCR Report:

***The nominated snap supplier will ***After Reviewing / Testing the samples/mock
evaluate the garment and recommend the ups the nominated Snap supplier will return to
most suitable snaps for each style. The the Vendor One Mock Up sample with correct
evaluation by the nominated snap snaps attached and a Technical Data sheet /
supplier will consider: GCR Report with below details…
• Fabric type • Pinch setting readings for Snap Attaching
Machine
• Position of snaps on garments
• Compressed fabric thickness
• No uneven layering of fabric
• Part code / description
• Thickness of fabric
• Part thickness as confirmed by Vernier Calipers
• No attachment on seams, Stitches • Required Die-set
• Define suitable snap prong length. • Force / Pressure required
• Any recommended fusing, linings or
reinforcements
*** Garment Supplier must ensure that all of the details defined in the submitted Technical
datasheet / GCR Report are strictly followed for manufacturing.
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 Details on GCR Report / Technical Data Sheet: (Terminology)
• Snap Position:
➢ This is the Placement / location of Snap Button on the Garment.
• Foundation Thickness Measurement:
➢ Measurement of the fabric at the Point where the Snap Button is
attached. Foundation Thickness is measured by using Torque
Micrometer.
• Basic Pinch Measurement:
➢ Measurement of Two Parts of the Fastener assembled with no
fabric in between.
• Machine Pinch Setting Measurement:
➢ Measurement to which the application machine is adjusted to
achieve correct attachment. This measurement is the overall depth
of the fastener / component which is attached to the Fabric /
Garment. Pinch Setting is measured by digital Vernier Caliper.
• Machine Setting Tolerance:
➢ Measurements between which the attachment may vary without
effecting the Attachment Strength.
• Attaching Machine type:
➢ The Details of Machine make and model number.

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PINCH DIMENSION:
• The actual pinch / setting pinch dimension is the total thickness of the press
fastener when attached to the fabric. Pinch dimensions are measured with a
micrometer.
• Basic Pinch – The total thickness of the assembled press fastener without fabric
• Foundation – The total thickness of the compressed fabric
• Actual Pinch (Setting Pinch) – The total thickness of the press fastener plus the
compressed fabric

Basic Pinch + Foundation = Actual Pinch (Setting Pinch)

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EXAMPLE OF A “GCR REPORT”:

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Pre-Production Set Up / Testing by Garment Supplier:
Before start production each snap attaching machine must be correctly adjusted / calibrated and setup to the
Snap supplier’s instructions as provided on their Technical Data sheet / GCR Report to ensure the following.
• Each machine is checked on for all sizes of trims
• A minimum of one size set representing all colourways is checked in same construction before start production
• Garments from each shift to be tested Twice (Morning / Afternoon) on daily basis.
• Test first garment on each shift on each machine, and also when there is a size change made on the machine
(same style)
• Each snap position on each garment must be tested. Results must be recorded and documented on daily report.
• Using Vernier Caliper the Machine Operator / Mechanic must verify that the Machine Pinch Setting of each
component after application is within the Specified tolerance as mentioned in GCR Report.
• After ensuring the Machine Pinch Setting correct, proceed to test the Attachment Strength of each individual
component applied. Components must withstand the Pull force of (50 N if Diameter is below 6 mm / 70 N if
Diameter is above 6 mm) for 10 Seconds.
• Production may commence when all testing has been completed. Regular monitoring on Machine Pinch Settings
and Attachment Strength to be done on Twice per Day / Shift to ensure consistency of Snap Application.
• During production minimum of (20) Attachment Strength readings and machine pinch setting readings must be
taken per day / shift, with at lease (10) being taken in the morning and (10) being taken in the afternoon. (If failure
occurs Vendor can check Hourly 5pcs from line to control Button Attachment Strength by Button Pulling
Tester machine).
• For test failures the machine must be stopped and all the production from that machine since the previous
test must be isolated. Conduct a 100 % manual inspection of stock and mechanical testing to determine
corrective action. Also a formal investigation must be done by garment manufacturer and technical
assistance to be requested from the Snap Supplier.
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If In-line Production Testing Fails:
For any testing fails, production must cease immediately and corrective action implemented to determine cause?
1) Isolate and quarantine all production garments from the failed machine
2) These garments must be rejected and removed from production
3) Machine must be re-calibrated to recommended settings
4) Snap/Poppers –Vendor must re-test a minimum of 30 snaps on mock up samples using bulk fabric prior to
re-commencing production
5) Metal & Plastic attachments - Vendor must re-test a minimum of 5 snaps on mock ups samples using bulk
fabric prior to re-commencing production

*Garments that have been mechanically checked must not be returned to the order. The vendor must
ensure that the order allows for sampling testing quantities.

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Factory must provide Quality Inspector with following details …
• Proof of Snap purchase invoice from nominated snap supplier for Purchase Order being inspected
• Technical Data Sheet / GCR Report from nominated snap supplier for Purchase Order being inspected
• Sealed sample from Buyer
• Trims Inspection Report from Inhouse quality team
• Completed Pre-production / Daily Inline testing worksheets
• Factory Quality (Daily) Reports
• GPT Report from Third Party Lab

Perform Trim Check

All Trims (Buttons(Snap/Stitched), Zipper, Hook, Cords, and Velcro) have to be checked for:
(i) Dimension
(ii) Position
(iii) Alignment
(iv) Structure/Type
(v) Color
(vi) Attachment Strength
(vii) Safety Standards
• Any snap deficiencies detected during the auditing process are considered as critical defects resulting in Inspection Fail.

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Inline Inspection for Snap Fasteners:
• Snap Process Steps to be clearly documented in the Operation Breakdown and Snap Section Operators to
be trained to the same from Reception of panels / garments to Snap attached.

• Machine Setting recommended in GCR / Technical Data Sheet to be strictly followed in Production line for
Snap Attaching Machines and trained the Operators for the same.

• CAP – Corrective Action Plan on Claims & Complaints received from Previous styles / customers needs to be
explained and trained to Snap Attaching Operators.

• Button / Snap Attachment Strength Testing Equipment should be available in Production Floor and Snap
Testing to be done at specific frequency on all Snap Attaching Machines.

• Traceability system for all snaps and their corresponding matrix (die-set) with separate storage by Vendor.
Internal PO required for snap & matrix request from main accessories area for production delivery.

• Snap production area to be defined, cleaned and well organized.

• Operators to be trained for Snap Attachment process / SOP’s with records

• Snap Attaching Machine Set up to be signed off by Snap Supplier Technician or Factory’s Engineer who has
authority, skills and responsibility
29 to set up the Machine.
Inline Inspection for Snap Fasteners: Continue …
• Humidity control in the warehouse helps to prevent molding or rusting of snaps and parts.
• Need to set up Inline QC check for all Panel part before next operation on quality and snap position
• Daily snap test need to apply for bulk production (Twice per Day / Shift – Morning & Evening).
• Molds/Matrix need to be used specific for each snap type & dimension on every new order (unless it is a repeat
order for previously used snap). Traceability needs to be implemented and process including awareness of risks.
• There needs to be a proper process for ensuring matrix (Die-set) is ordered with every snaps, and according to
quantity of machines to be used.

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Inline Inspection for Snap Fasteners: Continue …
• Proper marking methods are used for snap placements using Flat on Table before operation.

• In case magic pens are used, factory personal should aware of its risks. Magic pens to be renewed every month / kept in
proper storage.

• Proper template/paper pattern / Reference Guide to be used for placement symmetry & distance.

• Snap operators should wear appropriate protective equipment

• Electric or Pneumatic Press Fastener machines to be used, Strictly No Manual Attachment Allowed.

• Button attachment machines should be homogeneous (same brand) to be used for a style.

• Ensure Machine safety lock & sensors working properly

• Maintenance card to be available on Snap Attaching machine to check the frequency of Machine maintenance and
Calibration.

• Hazard warning to be placed at the work station

• Secure container for rejected

31 (incorrectly formed or damaged) snap buttons.
 ORDERING & ACCESSORIES MANAGEMENT:

• Factory should have documented the purchasing process for snap ordering with the matrix (Die-set)
needed for production.

• Final approved sample required with snaps developed and agreed by customer for production (metal
content, dimension, thickness, matrix used, etc.)

• Quality control of snaps and matrix by Vendor QC while reception at Warehouse and materials / goods
to be well protected.

• Humidity and Temperature control process in the storage area to avoid rusting and molding.

• Ordering of snaps to be take into consideration based on number of matrix v/s number of snap machine
planned for production.

• Non-conformity of Trims quality to be immediately communicated to Trims Supplier and action taken.

• Factory to collect certification, test reports …from the raw material suppliers.

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PULLING FORCE:
Pulling Test
 Sampling: S2
 To be performed only on Pulling Test Machine (available at Factory)
Pulling Force to hold for
10 Secs
Plastic Inserted Shank Button >20 kgf

Single Prong Shank Button >20 kgf

Swirel Shank Button >20 kgf

Shank Button >20 kgf

Nipple Rivet /028B Rivet/Alloy Rivet >20 kgf

Eyelet 10kgf

>7.8 kgf
Trousers Hook
(17 Lbs)

>10 kgf
Snap
(22 Lbs)
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 MANUFACTURING PROCESS FLOW OF PRESS FASTENERS:

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 MANUFACTURING PROCESS FLOW OF PRESS FASTENERS:…….. continue

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 MANUFACTURING PROCESS FLOW OF PRESS FASTENERS:…….. continue

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 MANUFACTURING PROCESS FLOW OF PRESS FASTENERS:…….. continue

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