SUNDAY TIMES HERITAGE PROJECT - Buffalo City
SUNDAY TIMES HERITAGE PROJECT - Buffalo City
INTRODUCTION
This memorial was unveiled by the South African president his Excellency Mr. Thabo
Mbeki on the 28 March 2008.
DISCRIPTION
This monument honours those who were killed or injured, fighting for a free and just
South Africa. In the 1980s the people of Duncan Village took up the call of president of
ANC, O.R.Tambo that the masses of South Africa had a duty to make the structures and
the system of the apartheid government unworkable.
On 11th August 1985, the people were returning from Rayi Village near King Williams
Town, where they had been attending the funeral of a prominent Human Rights Lawyer
Ms. Nonyamazelo Victoria Mxenge, who had been assassinated by apartheid agents at
her home in Mlazi, Durban.
Angry mourners rose up in protest and set alight symbol of the apartheid regime the
Duncan Village Rent Office, other government buildings and the homes of Local
Councilors who were seen as collaborators of the Apartheid system. The township
became the scene of the running battles between young people and police. The worst
violence occurred on the 14th of August 1985 when young people of Duncan Village
were attempting to destroy a bridge in order to prevent the police from entering the
township. During the above events, at least 31 people were killed and many more were
injured.
LOCATION
ACCESS
Open
.On December 22 1938, Marjorie Courtney-Latimer, the young curator of the East
London Museum, spotted an unusual fish in the catch on the deck of the trawler Nerine,
docked here. She took the 1.5m, 57.5kg fish home and had it stuffed to preserve it until it
could be identified by Rhodes University chemistry lecturer and keen ichthyologist JLB
Smith. He believed it to be a coelacanth, a fish thought to have been extinct for 70
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million years, but he needed one with its viscera intact to be certain. Smith made it his
life’s mission to find another one. 14 years later off the Comores coast, he found his fish
and wept.
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LOCATION
INTRODUCTION
LOCATION
2.4 The battle for Eastern Beach – the story of beach apartheid
(December 8 1969-November 16 1989)
INTRODUCTION
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LOCATION
INTRODUCTION
On December 6 1922, at the King William’s Town Magistrate’s Court, the prophetess
Nontetha Nkwenkwe was committed to Fort Beaufort Mental Hospital for ‘medical
observation’, as hundreds of her followers sang hymns outside. Nkwenkwe had began
having visions and preaching temperance after surviving the 1918 flu epidemic.
Authorities feared her growing popularity would threaten white rule and the
established churches. After she was moved to Weskoppies Hospital in Pretoria two
years later, 36 of her followers walked there on a 55-day ‘pilgrimage of grace’.
Nkwenkwe died at Weskoppies in 1935. In July 1998 her body was exhumed and
returned –via the pilgrim’s route - to her home. The Church of the Prophetess
Nontetha survives to this day.
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LOCATION
2.6 Archbishop Desmond Tutu & the Truth and Reconciliation Commission
(TRC)
(April 15 1996 - July 31 1998)
INTRODUCTION
In this hall, on April 16 1996, Archbishop Desmond Tutu dropped his head in his
hands and wept. It was Day Two of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission
hearings; former Robben Islander Singqokwana Ernest Malgas was describing his
torture by security police. The TRC would hear from 21 000 people across South
Africa, and Tutu, its chairman, would say of the process: ‘We have looked the beast
in the eye. Our past will no longer keep us hostage. We who are the rainbow people
of God will hold hands and say, Never again! Nooit weer! Ngeke futhi! Ga reno
tlola!’
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LOCATION
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3. Heroes Park Memorial Complex
Introduction
The Heroes Park Foundation was established in 2001 by Mr Dennis Matsane and Ms
Zolisa Sgabi incorporation it’s Vision and Mission statements as follows:
Vision
To preserve and celebrate the history of the Eastern Cape in order to inspire future
generations and to contribute to the South African nation – building a better life for
all.
Mission
To research and record the history of the Eastern Cape.
To engage in advocacy this creates awareness of our cultural heritage.
Description
The complex as of now comprises of Wall of Fame and Garden of Remembrance, and
a timber deck. The names of the people who contributed outstandingly to the society
are on this wall.
Location
It is situated on the Beach Front, alongside the German Memorial, just one street up
from the Esplanade.
4. BELLSTONE
INTRODUCTION
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5. DR W.B.RUBUSANA’S GRAVE.
INRODUCTION
Dr Walter Benson Rubusana is a son of a senior advisor to the Xhosa chiefs, King
Sandile kaNgqika, represents the first wave of African intellectuals. Qualifying with
distinction at Lovedale as a teacher, he stayed on to study theology under the
guidance of Dr Stewart and Reverend Andrew Smith. In 1880 he went to work at
Peelton mission station, doubling as teacher and assistant pastor. He translated many
biblical texts into Xhosa authored a number of original texts, including the respected
Zemk’ inkomo Magwala ndini (Defend your Heritage), an anthology of traditional
epic poetry, didactic Christian essays and church history.
Introduction
The Poet, Samuel Edward Krune Ngxeke-ngxeke Loliwe Mqhayi was born on the 1st
December 1875 and died in 1945. In 1891, he attended school at Lovedale, where he
graduated as a teacher. He then became editor of IZWI LABANTU newspaper and later
helped Reverend Rubusana as an assistant editor for IMVO ZABANTSUNDU.He was a
great book and poetry writer and a praise singer, the following are some of his work,
Ityala Lamawele, USamson, Ubomi buka J.k.Jolobe, Imihobe Nemibongo,uDon Jadu,
UAggrey UmAfrika, Umhlekazi uHintsa, UMqhayi WaseNtabozuko, Inzuzo. He
contributed seven verses to Nkosi Sikelel’i Afrika He was one of the highly respected
man for studies he did. In 1925, he showcased his imbongi skills when he delivered the
address to the Prince of Wales in King William’s Town.
Location
The grave is situated in Ntab’ozuko in Berlin.
S.E.K.N.L. Mqhayi’s grave is situated in Ntab’ozuko (“Mount Glory”) outside Berlin. A
bust of Mqhayi will be installed in Berlin.
INTRODUCTION
He was born in 1946 in Ginsberg , King William’s Town and died on 12th September
1977.Some intellectuals regard him as a great leader, an activist, an orator, a great
thinker…all in one soul.
Bantu became a leader of the Black Consciousness Movement (BCM) and was
instrumental in raising awareness of injustices and promoting sense of pride in them
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among Blacks. His message to the youth and students was simple and clear: Black is
Beautiful! Be proud of your Blackness.
Bantu was arrested while he was busy going around the country consulting with a broad
spectrum of people gathered in different, pockets of resistance. Whilst in detention in
1977, he was killed by Apartheid policemen. His legacy contributed a lot towards
shaping political conditions in South Africa
.
8. STEVE BANTU BIKO’S GRAVE
Steve Biko died on the 12th September 1977 from Police torture and assault in detention.
The circumstance resulting in his death still begs a complete explanation. He was buried
on the 17th September 1977 in old cemetery in Ginsberg. His funeral service was attended
by 20 000 people. The cemetery and the park were named after him as, STEVE BIKO
GARDEN OF REMEMBRANCE, and on 12th September 1997, it was officially
opened by former president, Mr Nelson Mandela.
Steve’s house is at Tyamzashe Street in Ginsberg. In 1997, the house was declared a
National Monument.
The bridge that connects the East and Wesbank, over the Buffalo River in East London
has been named after him as, STEVE BIKO BRIDGE.
Steve Tshwete was a well known activist during the struggle. He was a Head Boy of
Welsh High School, East London and imprisoned on Robben Island for same years.
When released, he went to exile, returning after the release of Mandela. He had a very
successful career in government and at his death was Minister of Safety and Security. He
died in 2002 and his grave is at Peelton Mission. The unveiling of his memorial stone
takes place later that year.
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14. THE TOUR OF THE DOVE:
A group of Veterans of the of the struggle have planned a tour of the sites relevant to the
struggle. They also interviews with the veterans themselves and visits to homes of people
in Mdantsane.
Contact; Mr Hilmi Daniels- 082 659832 e-mail [email protected]; Mr Sydney
Sili 043-727 0381/072 1209311.
Introduction
A young girl called Nongqawuse had seen a messenger from the realm of the ancestors at
a waterhole. She told her uncle Mhlakaza about her vision. As he was an important
Xhosa priest, his social rank granted a great impact to the prophecy he derived from his
niece's vision. He announced that soldiers, who were incarnations of the souls of dead
Xhosa warriors, would arrive on the 18th of February over the sea, come onto land
through the "Hole in the Wall" and defeat the hated British. But, he continued, the Xhosa
had to make a sacrifice to help the warriors by destroying all their cereals and killing all
their cattle. After the victory, there would be food in abundance for everybody. The
Xhosa followed the instructions in his prophecy and killed their whole stock of cattle.
The catastrophe took its course. Thousands of Xhosa starved and the British had an easy
time conquering the remaining people.
Location
The mass grave where the cattle killing victims are buried is situated at Edward Cemetery
in King Williams Town.
An interpretative plaque for the site has been installed.
The memorial is situated in Zone 10, Zwelitsha. During 1980’s there was political
instability in South Africa, and Zwelitsha was part of it. Student protests and uprisings,
underground political organizations and horrifying moments of police brutality were
ingrained into the life of the town. On 23rd July 1985, a protest meeting was held at
Nompendulo High School to enforce a democratically elected student body. Student
demands were drafted and handed over to the school Principal. He did not cooperate,
refused to address the students and called the police. They demanded immediate
dispersal, but the student refused and after the use of teargas and assault pandemonium
broke out. Many students were subsequently arrested. Fleeing scholars attempted to cross
the Buffalo River, adjacent to the school, and in the process at least three students
drowned. A memorial commemorating the school tragedy was unveiled on 23 July 2000
on the school grounds by Rev M. Stofile, former Premier of the Eastern Cape.
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17. BISHO MASSACRE
This is the second worst massacre in the History of South African liberation struggle that
took place in 1992, just two years before the African National Congress (ANC) came to
power. In the year, 1992, 60 000 members of the ANC were led into a direct
confrontation with 500 black troops of one such homeland- Ciskei.The Ciskei
government had warned them not to cross the stipulated border, but senior members of
the South African Communist Party played a key
Role leading the throng straight into a confrontation with Ciskei army. Two and half
minutes of automatic gunfire by the Ciskei soldiers left 28 dead and hundreds injured. So
the incident was the same as Sharpsville, and Gqozo was criticized.
The purpose of the march was to force Briegadier Oupa Gqozo to step down from power
and abolish Ciskei homeland.
Location:
The monument to commemorate the incident is situated next to Bisho Stadium.
In August, 4, 1983, 11 people were gunned down on this site. During this period there
was a general political unrest in South Africa. In Mdantsane, the unrest came about when
Mdantsane people boycotted partly state – owned Ciskei Transport Corporation (C.T.C.)
Company buses after the company had unilaterally fare increases in 1983.
The Ciskei government embarked on a campaign to force people to board buses. It used
its ruthless security apparatus, backed by a vigilante group, to beat up those who did not
want to board buses. Bus boycott leaders were harassed and detained without trial by the
Ciskei security police .Mr Mzwandile Mampunye was the chairman of the Bus Boycott
Committee of Ten during this period
The late ‘’B Ka T’’ Tyamzashe was one of the greatest music composers in Africa; he
really contributed immensely towards development of African music. His greatest
composition for the Catholic Church is probably his Gloria, in which he combines a
melody closely related to the melody of Ntsikana’s Great hymns with a flowing,
rhythmic melody - very like a melody Nofinish Dwyili uses in a song
commemorating the ancestral figure Magungqelindawo. In 1938, his wife died having
borne him six children and Tyamzashe later married Agnes Masango.A rare ditiction
was bestowed upon him when he was invited to conduct a massed choir of 3000
school children at the welcoming ceremony in Mthatha for King George of Britain.
In 1975, the University of Fort Hare conferred an honorary degree upon him in
recognition of his outstanding contribution to music. It was not only Benjamin
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Tyamzashe the musician, but Benjamin Tyamzashe the man who made an impact on
his fellowmen and women. Wherever he went this popular personality was greeted
with great affection and acclamation as Teacher Tyamzashe.He died at Frere
Hospital, East London, on June 04, 1978 at the age of 87.He was buried at Zinyoka
location.
.
Location:
Memorial has been erected in ‘’B ka T’’ Tyamzashe Secondary School in Ezinyoka
administrative area, King William’s Town.
Introduction
Nkosi Ndlambe is one of the Xhosa chiefs who played a significant role in Xhosa and
South African history. He successfully fought so many wars and he erected his Great
Place during his life time in Mpongo (Macleantown) .On this site, there is a bellstone
(Ilitye LikaNdlambe) which rings like a bell when struck, it produces a metallic sound. It
is believed that he used to sit and relax on it.
This rock keeps historical evidence that his Great Place was once built on this site.
Location: The rock is plus minus I km from the memorial.
This stone building was built in 1880 and closed in 1880.It was a women’s prison during
the Apartheid epoch and a number of women folk were incarcerated there. Mrs. Winnie
Madikizela Mandela is one of them. Currently, the National Department of Arts And
Culture is planning to transform the building into a Women’s Museum.
A high stone wall surrounds the complex, with the original administrative building
forming one part of it. This is a very fine building, Georgian in design. Renovations were
done in 1981, and some of the original cells have been retained. The old gallows block
has been restored and the there is a brief history of the goal on display there. The two
central cell blocks and the old kitchen have been turned into small shops.
Location: This building is situated in Fleet Street, East London.
The anti – apartheid activists and human rights lawyers, Griffiths and Victoria Mxenge
are buried outside King William’s Town. They were married in 1964 and moved to
Durban. Their lives were much affected by frequent bannings, detentions and
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imprisonment, but they both handled many high – profile and political cases. They were
both assassinated by the security force hit squads during Apartheid epoch in 1981 and
1985, respectively.
Location: Their graves are situated in Rhayi village in King William’s Town.
The apartheid government through its notorious system of forced removals made about
seventy families to be dumped in a place subsequently named, Dimbaza, which means a
place where rubbish is dumped. They came as far away as far as Middleburg and
Karoo.Due to the harsh living conditions hundreds of children died of malnutrition,
tuberculosis and preventable diseases such as measles. Whereas other towns are built
around a civic square, a town hall or shops, Dimbaza’s centre is the children’s cemetery
containing many unmarked graves. In 1970s, over 20 factories were established in
Dimbaza following the international outrage that the children’s cemetery provoked.
Taking advantage of the Ciskei’s extensive tax rebate and high financial inducements the
factories, mostly foreign- owned , were built in an attempt to transform Dimbaza into a
showcase of industrial opportunity. When the incentives and subsidies were removed in
the 1990’s however, many of the factories closed down or moved elsewhere.
Introduction
Gompo features prominently in the human history of East London .The rock has also
featured prominently in the religious lives of Xhosa – speaking people. The Xhosa
Prophet, Nxele or Makana, was converted to Christianity in 1812.In 1817, in an attempt
at mass convertion through a show of his sacred potency, Nxele assembled people at
Cove Rock to witness the resurrection of ancestors and cattle from a cavern beneath the
rock.
According to traditionalists Cape Nguni belief paternal ancestral spirits, ABANTU
BOMLAMBO, are said to reside in the water beneath the rock. Gompo Town near East
London city centre derives its name from the Rock.
PHYSICAL DESCRIPTION
Cove Rock / Gompo are a unique sandstone headland with good example of wave – cut
platform, a classic half – heated bay and a large mobile dune field unique to the East
London environment. The adjacent area is a protected State forest.
Location
The rock is situated in East London about 11km south west of the Buffalo River mouth
between Hickman’s River mouth (cast of the site) and the resort of Winterstrand (west of
the site)
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26. Clements Kadalie:
Introduction
Clements Kadalie was born in Malawi in the 1890’s, the exact date unknown. He was
educated at a Scottish mission school and became a school teacher. He left Malawi in
1916 and settled in Cape Town where in 1919 he established a trade union, the Industrial
and Commercial Worker’s Union, among dockworkers. This urban- based union
flourished, but disputes over funds and leadership resulted in a loss of support in the
Cape. Attention was turned to the rural areas of Transvaal, Natal and Orange Free State
to mobilize a mass support base. By the end of 1927, there were more than 100 ICU
branches with 100 000 membership around the country. Continued financial problems
and leadership struggles led to the demise of the party. In 1929 Karalee left the party and
established the Independent ICU based in East London from where he led strike attempts,
attempted to prevent the final disfranchisement of the Cape blacks in 1936 and generally
concerned himself with non- white trade union and political interests. A hall in the former
East Bank Location was named after him. Clements died on the 28th November 1951.He
was buried in a grave yard in Duncan village .His wife , Eva Kadalie, was buried next to
him following her death on 16 December1974.Neglect resulted in the exhumation and
reburial of remains in the Cambridge Cemetery in 2001.
Description
This is an interesting building in the style of an early church. It houses, among other
mission artifacts, the old Mount Coke printing press, on which the first Xhosa bible was
printed.
Location
Berkeley St, King Williams Town
Access
Unfortunately, owing to staff shortages, there is no permanent curator. The museum will
be opened on request with permission of the Director, Amathole Museum 043 6434506
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27.2. JOHN BROWNLEE MISSION STATION RESIDENCY
Introduction
The original mission was established by Rev. John Brownlee for the London Missionary
Society in 1826 and was established to work among the Ntinde under Chief Jan Tzatzoe.
The building was damaged in 1835, but was repaired and additions made. With the
establishment of King Williams Town, Sir Harry Smith took it over as his residence
1836. Brownlee then returned but moved the station to his second station in 1847. The
original building is now “The Residency” was proclaimed a national Monument in 1977.
Description
This is a stone structure set in pleasant surroundings. Additions have been made’
Location
Prince Alfred Square, King Williams Town.
Access
The exterior is open. Present owner unknown.
Recommendations
This is the oldest building in King Williams Town and is well worth visiting.
Description
This is a spacious church and has been referred to as the ‘Cathedral of Kaffraria’ it was
restored by the local community in 1980.
Location
13 km from Bhisho on the Komga road.
Access
Permission from the Minister.
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27.4. MOUNT COKE MISSION:
Introduction
William Shaw established the Mount Coke mission in 1825, in the territory of Chief
Ndlambe. It was one of the chain of Wesleyan Methodist missions which Shaw started in
the Easter Cape and Transkei. It was burnt down during the frontier wars in 1834 and
again in 1846, moving to the present site in 1948. The Rev. J.W. Appleyard translated the
bible into Xhosa. A printing press was purchased in 1849 and was used to print the first
Xhosa bible and was published in 1853. (The press is in the Missionary Museum). Mount
Coke became known for the hospital founded by the missionaries. Mount Coke was
proclaimed a national monument in 1959.
Description
Many of the original buildings still exist, the hospital, church and cottages. Many
additions were made.
Access
Unfortunately most of the buildings are derelict and have been vandalized and this is not
recommended that that this be visited. A clinic of sorts might still exist and a small
congregation struggle to keep the church going. This could be an excellent tourist site if
the complex could be restored and developed.
Description
The church has a Norman-style frontage, but the interior shows the early history. Of
interest are the stained glass war Memorial windows, dedicated in 1922, the Bishops
Chair installed in 1904 and the Baptismal Shell in 1900. A brass plaque in memory of Sir
Charles and Lady Crewe is situated in porch.
Access
By arrangement with the Rector: 043-722 3842, Home: 043-7438155
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and is still in use. It was named for Rev. Alexander Pirie, one of the founders of the
Glasgow Missionary Society.
Description
The original church still stands, but the Bryce Ross church is in use. The cemetery is of
interest as it contains the graves of the Ross family as well as the Ntsikana family, who
were the first converts.
Location
Turn off the R63 just before Dimbaza. It is signposted.
Access
Permission from the Minister
Background
The early white settlers in the Buffalo City area established Christian church
congregations at the early stage. While there was some competition between the different
denominations, there are some remarkable examples of co-operations. The churches
started the first schools in East London and King Williams Town for black and white
children.
Description
This is a simple brick-plastered building. The interior is of interest with some of the
memorial plaques. The oak rood screen was erected in memory of Mrs. Munn, wife of the
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Port Captain. The house adjoining the church was original manse and was built in the late
1860s, so the Norfolk pine in the garden probably dates to that time.
Location
High Street, West Bank.
Access
By permission of Rector of St Johns.
Recommendations
This is a listed building and those responsible for it should be encouraged to care for it.
The foundation stone was laid on 10 June 1878 by Dr C.J. Egen in the first Masonic
ceremony in East London. The clergy present were Archdeacon Kitton, Rev Wyche and
the Rev A. Maggs from St Lukes Mission. The first service was held 19 November1880
and thechurch was consecrated by Bishop Merriman in 1881. The architects were
cordeaux and Walker. The foundation stone for the new aisle for the chapel of the
Kaffrarian Riffles (now Buffalo Volunteer Riffles) was laid on 18 October 1902 with
coins of the realm being placed under the stone. When the church was built it served a
community, which resided in the vicinity. With the growth of the town, the residential
area hasa moved away, so there is only a small congregation at present.
Description
The building is of a stone in the neo-Gothic style.
Location
It is situated at the corner of Oxford and Church Streets.
Access
Permission must be obtained to go inside from the Rector, 043 – 722 8986, rectory – 722
7021
Recommendations
This is of interest as it was the ‘Mother Church’ of the Anglican community.
Communication could be made with the Rector to plan visits.
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The first Presbyterian Church congregation met on the West Bank in 1874 and St
Andrews church was built in 1880. With the growth of East London in Panmure, small
churches and halls were built in the Beach area, Cambridge, Southernwood and North
End. A Lutheran Hall in Park Avenue was used, but the growing congregation raised
money to build a large church. The foundation stone was laid on 6 Jan 1900 and a silver
trowel was presented to Mrs. James Georgeson, who performed the ceremony. (The
trowel is now in East London Museum). The original design incorporated a dome, but
there was no builder in East London able to erect one and there were several collapses.
The concept of a dome was abandoned and a pitched roof used. St Georges first opened
its doors in 1902.
Description
The entrance has an impressive pediment and Doric columns.
Location
The building is situated obliquely between Oxford Street and Park Avenue.
Access
Entry by permission of the minister: 743 4060; manse; 735 3637
Recommendations
Contact to be made with the minister.
Description
The church is built of brick and plastered. It is in the Early English Gothic style and has
an imposing crocketted spire. Repairs were undertaken 1976, when there appeared to be a
danger of collapse. The magnificent organ is a source of pride for the congregation. It
was purchased at considerable expense in 1902 and was extensively repaired in 1946 and
1961. There are memorial tables to those lost in the first and second World wars.
Location
Oxford Street
Access
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With permission from the minister 7228904
Recommendations
This is a well maintained church and contributes to the city’s skyline.
Description
This Gothic styled church with an imposing spire. There are 17 beautiful stained glass
windows were donated by St Andrews Lutheran church in Hanover, Germany, in 1922 on
the occasion of the 50th anniversary.
Location
50 Park Avenue
Access
By permission of the pastor: 7222700
Recommendations
The interior is well worth visiting.
Description
The building has a simple form with spire which is a roof vent. It has lancet and rose
windows. Two of the stained glass windows are memorials to John Gately, a figure in
early East London, and son, who died in 1899 of typhoid aged 25.
Location
44 Albany Street, but with no access from Buffalo Street..
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Access
With permission of the priest: 7221724
Recommendations
The interior is well worth a visit.
Description
The building has an articulated gabled roof with domed cylinders between the three
sections.
Location
It is situated between Brill and Paterson Street.
Access
Permission of the dominie
Recommendations
Make contract with the dominie
Description
The façade has arched windows and front door, with a balustrade parapet. The dome is
supported by pillars.
Location
Porter Street
Access
Permission of the imam.
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Recommendations
This should be recognized as forming an important part of the cultural heritage of the
city.
Description
This is a very fine church in the neo Gothic style. The walls are of locally quarried
bluestone and the floors of yellowwood from Kwazidenge forest.The main doors are
made from timber from the Lady Kennaway, wrecked in East London in 1857. The nave
was extended in 1867. An aisle, a vestry and two lacent windows were added in 1864.
The present organ was installed in 1880 and the Lady Chapel was added in 1897. The
stained glass in the east wall is a memorial to Rev. Kitton. The pulpit and communion
were presented to the church in memory of the curate, John Gordon. The Jubilee Bell was
a present of Mr J.M Ellis in 1898. The tower was added in 1932 as memorial to
Archdcacon B.E. Holmes. The zinc roof was placed with slate in 1935 and the present
pews date to 1956.
Location
Access
Recommendation
This is an extremely interesting church with a rich history. The interior is well worth
visiting even if tourist is not exclusively interested in church history. Contact should be
made with the rector and the church should be requested to make the excellent booklet on
their history available to tourist.
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28.9.1 ST ANDREWS CHURCH (Presbyterian):
INTRODUCTION
DESCRIPTION
The church was built in the decorated Gothic style of local blue stone and there is an 80 ft
tower. The stained glass windows are dedicated to the memory of John Brownlee,
William and John Lumsden, and Francis Tudhope. A memorial tablet of those who died
in the First World War was in unveiled on 11 December 1921 and another memorial
tablet was inscribed for those who died in the Second World War
LOCATION
Alexandra Road.
RECCOMEDATION
INTRODUTION
Founded by Scottish Settlers who settled in the area in 1877 under an immigration
scheme. A wattle and daub building was fist church but swept away by a gale. A stone
church was built in 1902, with the help of German neighbors.
DESCIPTION
The simple building has a gothic arched doorway. The new wing of brick was added
later.
LOCATION
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It can be reached by turning off the N2 at Brakfontein, then turn right over the bridge and
it is signposted.
ACCESS
RECOMMEDATIONS
This church is well worth visit. It is set in attractive country surroundings and the
cemetery is of interest.
Foundation stone dated 16 February 1902. Built by Germans who settled in this area. It
has had a fire, but has been rebuilt.
Turn off N2 at the Brakfontein turn off and follow the sign.
INTRODUCTION
From about 1860, white framers were granted land in the area around Kidd’s beach.
Many were of 1820 stock. There was sufficient number to form a congregation and to
raise funds and to undertake the building of small chapel, which was completed in 1826.
A wood and iron school room was built at the same time but has since been demolished.
The roof and the front door were replaced in 1960. The church was bought by Dept of
community Development for handing over to the Ciskei in the 1970s. The hand over was
never completed and the church, which is one of the oldest extent churches between the
fish and Umzimkulu River, was left abundant. The historical society initiated a trust fund
and undertook repairs which were completed in 1996. It was declared a National
monument in 1993.
DESCRIPTION
This is simple plastered brick building with a pitched roof and entrance porch. The
cemetery is of particular interest.
LOCATION
It is situated on the old Ncera Road. Turn off the R32 (Before the turn of Kidds Beach)
onto R347. 10 kilometers along turn left onto the old Ncera road at the old canning
factory. The church is about 1 km on the right.
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Access
At present through the Chairman, Border Historical Society, Miss J. Penrose Mikes,
(043) 781 1835. The local community is taking steps to take over the church for
interdenominational services.
Recommendations
A meeting has been held with the local community who are very keen that this church
could become a tourist attraction. They are talking of setting up a ‘boma’ and serving
cool drinks etc. it would be a great service if this become part of tourist route.
The Buffalo City area has the remains of a classic stones – built ‘permanent’ fort and an
earthworks ‘temporary’ fort as well as powder magazines, which were a part of old forts,
and building in the old military Reserve in King Williams Town. Some of these are
proclaimed National Monument.
Site selected
Frontier War: Fort Glamorgan, Fort Pato, Fort Murray, Fort Hill ( two powder
magazines) the Military Reserve ( military chest vault, barracks, officer’s mess, smith,
military hospital, stone gutters).
31. THE FRONTIER WARS: The fort sites in Buffalo City date from 1835 to 1857
INTRODUCTION:
The expansion westward of the Dutch and English settlers during the 19th century brought
them in to conflict with the Xhosa – speaking people and the present Eastern Cape
become a frontier zone. The old Cape Colony boundary was extended to the fish river in
23
1785. Conflict over the land and between Fish and Keiskamma Rivers led to the
proclamation of this area as the so called Neutral Territory in 1819. The Xhosa were
systematically being deprived of thousands of hectares of arable and grazing land and by
1834 this drew a response from them. Warriors cross the Fish River raiding farms and
settlements and in 1835 the 6th frontier war broke out. British Military forces were
brought in; King Williams Town was proclaimed and become a centre of Military
operation and D’URBAN, Governor of the Cape at the time, proclaimed the area between
the Kaiskamma and the Kei River to be the province of Queen Adelaide. A number of
forts were established in the new province, including Fort Hill in King Williams Town
and Fort Murray, near the Mount Coke Mission Station. The British governor refused to
recognize the province of Queen Adelaide and the forts were abandoned.
Renewed hostilities broke out in 1846 (the War of the Axe) and King Williams Town
again become the centre of military action. Fort Hill was reoccupied and Fort Murray
relocated. East London was established as a part of the mouth of Buffalo River, in order
to bring supplies to the scene of the action by sea. In conjunction with this, Fort
Glamorgan was constructed to guard the supply port. With the precarious peace being
agreed on in 1847, the land between the Keiskamma and Kie rivers was annexed as the
colony of British Kaffraria. The peace was short – lived and in 1850 the War of Mlanjeni
broke out and lasted till 1853. Temporary posts were erected along the wagon-route
between King Williams Town and East London to guard the supply wagons. These were
Forts Grey, Pato and needs Camp. The military establishment at King Williams Town
was reinforced and a Military Reserve proclaimed.
INTRODUCTION
Fort Glamorgan was established at the mouth of Buffalo River in 1848 to house troops
and to guard the start of the supply line to King Williams Town. It was named for Lord
Charles Somerset’s father, the Earl of Glamorgan. It was proclaimed a National
Monument 1938.
DESCRIPTION
The original fort consisted of loop-holed stone wall surrounding barrack accommodation
for soldiers and officers, forage stores and stabling, a hospital and cookhouses.
The original powder magazine was outside precinct of fort, but it was realized that this
was useless and so one was constructed inside the grounds in 1856 this is still exists in
good conditions as it has been well maintained by the Dept of Correctional Services. It is
built of Dolerite blocks and has an arched roof, of brick roof, surrounded by high stone
wall with a small guard house attached. On the outside is around – topped stone with WD
and an arrow incised. This is one of the original four parameter stones which were
situated to indicate the boundary corners of the military rayon. None of the other
24
buildings remains, but the profusion of stone for supporting walls etc. was taken from the
original fort.
Location
It is situated on the West Bank on the right hand side of Bank Street and it is well marked
as it is the present day prison of Fort Glamorgan. The powder magazine is situated about
500m from main gate.
Access
Permission must be obtained from the Area manager, Dept of Correctional Services, by
sanding fax to 7311512 stating the number in the group. Arrangements will then be made
for the visit.
Conditions
Very good
This is situated in prison grounds so the Area Manager may have a problem with groups
that are too large. This needs to be discussed with him. A group of 20 to 30 is
recommended.
Recommendation
Established courteous relations with the Area Manager of Dept Correctional Services.
33. HEADQUARTERS
BUFFALO VOLUNTEER RIFLES (ex KAFFRARIAN RIFLES)
INTRODUCTION
The Buffalo Volunteer Rifles was a colonial regiment raised in East London in 1876
under the Captain E.Y. Brabant. Two companies took part in the frontier war of
1877/1878 and they also saw service in the Basuto war of 1880. In 1883 it was reformed
as the Kaffrarian Rifles and this regiment fought in the Anglo – Boer War and both
World Wars. In 1989 the name was change back to the Buffalo Rifles. The building dates
to 1906, when the foundation stone was laid by Col. H.T. Lukin, Commander of the
Colonial Foces.
DISCRIPTION
The building is of red brick with a castellated parapet. A small museum reflecting the
history of the regiment has been established and can be visited.
25
LOCATION
It is situated on the corner of Fleet and Buffalo Streets, East London, with the entrance in
Buffalo Street.
Access
The museum is open from 08h00 to 18h00 Monday to Friday. Permission to visit may be
obtain by telephoning 742 0677. Officer Commanding is Lieut. Col A.C.M. Clegg. WO2
Craig Brown is the officer in charge of the museum.
Large groups would be difficult to handle. The recommended group size is 20.
VISITORS
Very few people know about this small museum and it receives no publicity.
CONDITION
Very good.
Recommendation
Tourist interested in military history would find this most interesting. The officer
commanding and the Curator of the museum should be invited to tourism functions and
be involved in planning. There is plan at present for the development of the museum to
widen its scope with a particular reference to a more inclusive military history, targeting
tourists and education.
On the landing in the vestibule are tablets made of white marble. On the panels are the
names of white men who died during the frontier wars.
INTRODUCTION
This was a temporary post which was established in 1853 on the Gulu River ridge (then
called ‘Goolah Heights’) on the site of outspan, to guard the supply line from East
London to King Williams town. It was named for Chief Phatho of the Gqunukwebe, as it
26
was situated in his territory and who has promised to remain it neutral during the war of
Axe.
DISCRIPTION
This was square redoubt enclose by earthen parapet, 8 feet high, and fosse, 4-5 feet deep,
with two small square loop – holed bastion at opposite corners. It contained three stone
buildings, a commissariat, a powder magazine and a cookhouse and brick officers’
quarters. Soldiers’ barracks and stables were built of wattle and daub. Today the
earthworks still exist and remain of brick and stone can be seen within it is completely
overgrown with shrubs and trees.
LOCATION
FORT POTO is about 300m off the R346, (Mount Coke road) between East London and
King Williams Town.
ACCESS
This is on land owned by the Dept Nature Conservation and falls within the Directorate
of Marine and coastal Management with Mr Robert Stegman as the responsible official.
VISITORS
One part of 8 attempted to view the site but was unable to penetrate the thick bush.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Port Pato is typical of the temporary earthworks forts build in the Eastern Cape during the
period of frontier war. No other structure of this kind has been preserved so this is an
opportunity for the preservation of a unique site to attract tourists. Mr. Stegman has
express his willingness to clear the area and maintain it for tourist. Contact can be made
with Mr. Robert Stegman at 043
It is further recommended that local community should be involved in the project and
some volunteers could be trained as tour guides for the site.
27
34.3. FORT MURRAY
INTRODUCTUION
The original Fort Murray was established 1835 near to the Mount Coke Station. In 1848
it was moved to the present site in Ndlambe territory. It was intended to add muscle to
chief commissioner of British Kaffrarian, whose house was situated near by. Fort Murray
was occupied by Frontier Armed and mounted Police during the 1870s and by the Cape
Police in the 1880s. It was declared a National Monument in 1938. The present
ownership of the land and management of the site is not known.
Description
This was constructed of stone and was intended as more permanent structure. It
consisted of a loop-holed stone wall enclosing quarters for officers, barracks for soldiers,
a commissariat store, powder magazine and stables. Restoration of the buildings was
done in 1977.
Location
Turn off the R346 (Mount Coke Road). It is some 5kms on. The gravel road in poor
condition and is not sign – posted.
ACCESS
Open
CONDITIONS
The impressive stone structure still exists, but as there is no control it has been
vandalized.
CAPACITY AND CONSTRAITS
VISITORS
None known
RECOMMENDATION
28
the road and erect signs. This is the only stone fort of its kind to have been declared and
therefore to have same form of protection.
INTRODUCTION
The outbreak of hostilities in 1835 led to the building of FORT HILL, named for Lord
Hill, who was the commander in chief of British Army at the time. It was established in
King Williams Town, with the proclamation of the province of Queen Adelaide. It was to
be the military headquarters and depot for all the forts in the new province. It was
evacuated following the withdrawal in 1837, but reoccupied and rebuilt following the
War of the Axe, in 1846.
DESCRIPTION
It was originally laid out as irregular earthworks square with flanking redans for three
guns on three of its faces. Wattle and daub huts were built for 400 soldiers. When rebuilt
the walls were reinforced with brick. It was to be used mainly as a depot so provision was
made for commissariat and ordnance store complexes and a powder magazine. The
second powder magazine was added later. The powder magazines surrounded by stone
wall are all that remain of the original fort. The complex is declared National Monument.
LOCATION
ACCESS
RECOMANDATIONS
The principal be consulted about this and the other building from the Military Reserve
being accessible to tourist.
INTRODUCTION
In 1847, the area between the Keiskamma and the Kei River was proclaimed as the
Colony of British Kaffraria, this further dispossessing the Xhosa people and extending
the British control. Commissioners were appointed to administer and work with the
Chiefs. It was realized that control would have to be through the force of arms and so
29
provision was made to build and reoccupy fortifications throughout the new colony. King
Williams Town was againe selected to be the headquarters and in 1848 a large area was
cordoned off for Military buildings – the Military Reserve.
DESCRIPTION
The area covered about 5 acres adjoining the new town and included the Fort Hill. The
buildings, often of stone, included officers’ quarters, an officers’ mess, vault for the
military chest, a hospital, a smithy for the engineers, barracks, for Artillerymen, a cavalry
troop, a battalion of infantry and a house for the chief Commissioner.
LOCATION
1 The barracks, the house for the Chief Commissioner and the vault for the military
chest are all situated within the grounds of Lovedale College (KWT campus)
2 The officers’ mess, a National Monument, is a situated in Hood Street.
3 The Smithy, a National monument is situated in a field off Military Road.
4 The military hospital, a National Monument, is in Military Road.
5 Stone gutters in Military Street. These were laid by the Royal Engineers and are
proclaimed by the NMC.
ACCESS
For Fort Hill and Military barracks.
Permission from the Principal, Lovedale College campus, Mr N. Dickson, 043-6421414
CONDITION
Some are good. All need care and attention.
RECOMMENDATIONS
The principal of the Lovedale College (KWT campus) be contacted and access discussed.
The possibility of introducing a tourism component for one of the courses could be
suggested. SAHRA should be contacted and advice given on care of the proclaimed
sites. The Departments under whose control the various buildings fall be contacted and
possibly hold a tourism workshops with them to involve them in the project.
INTRODUCTION
East London was an important port of entry for supplies for the Anglo-Boer War of 1899-
1902. Most East London and King Williams Town white inhabitants were pro British
and many streets in East London were named for the Colonial and British generals, such
as Lukin, Brabant, Buller, Kitchener, Roberts and French. Many fine houses in the
Belgravia were built from the proceeds of burgeoning trade, of which the Ann Bryant Art
Gallery is a fine example. While no military engagements were fought in the Buffalo
30
City area, many of he Colonial Division Units were raised in the area and the equestrian
statue was a memorial to those killed in action.
DESCRIPTION
This is a bronze equestrian statue mounted on a plinth of Irish marble. It depicts a scount
sculptured by W. Reynolds-Stephens of London. The model for the figure was Captain
G.J. Hearns M.C., of the Cape Mounted Riflemen, and the model for the horse was
‘Boodles’. The inscription reads “This statue was erected to the memory of the officers
and men of the Colonial Division who lost their lives in the Anglo-Boer War 1899-
1902”. The names of men from the Cape Mounted Riflemen, the Kaffarian Rifles, the
Queenstown Rifle Volunteers, Border Horse, Cape Medical Corps, and two regiments of
Brabant’s Horse. It was unveiled on 9 November 1908 by General Sir E.Y. Brabant. The
statue was named the best equestrian statue by the Royal Academy in 1910.
LOCATION
It is situated in front of the entrance of the City Hall, Oxford Street, East London.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Any efforts to move this statue should be vigorously opposed. Movement would
certainly damage the fabric and bronze becomes very brittle. It should be kept clean and
its condition should be monitored.
INTRODUCTION
South Africa sent many units to fight in the First World War and, in common with most
South African towns
and villages, both East London and King Williams Town erected memorials those who
lost their lives. The horrific loss of life generated deep emotions and the proliferation of
memorials was an effort to justify and glorify those who had died. East London had 5
cenotaphs erected, 2 memorial windows, and 6 rolls of honour were inscribed and located
in various buildings around the town. The Second World War did not generate such an
outburst of sentimentality and fewer and smaller memorials were erected. Many simply
added names to existing memorials.
31
THE CENOTAPH EAST LONDON
INTRODUCTION
The Cenotaph was erected through public subscription and was unveiled on 11 November
1923 by Major General Sir H.T. Lukin K.C. CMG DSO. The design of the memorial
was selected from 14 entries and was by Ing and Jackson of Durban. The bronze figure
was designed by Mr J.W. Jagger of London.
DESCRIPTION
The central memorial is set within a square enclosed by wrought iron railings, with lamps
on pillars at each corner. The memorial is of the cenotaph style with a shaft resting on a
platform of sandstone blocks. Each face has the names of the various battle fronts. On
the north face is a life-size bronze sculpture of a soldier in full trench kit. Above the
figure is the coat of arms of East London and with the inscription “To the men of East
London who fell in the Great War, 1915 to1918”. The names are inscribed on the lower
faces of the memorial.
LOCATION
The area is bounded by Oxford and King and Lukin Road.
ACCESS
Open
CONDITION
Good
VISITORS
No record has been kept. A public ceremony is held annually to lay wreaths on
November.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Council should be made aware that maintenance should be ongoing as vandalism does
occur.
INTRODUCTION
The passion for elaborate memorials had waned by the end of the Second World War, but
it was felt necessary to erect some memorial. A Lych Gate, or covered gateway was
usually the entrance to a church, and this was selected for this memorial. It was unveiled
32
and dedicated on 2 September 1951 by Lt Genl G.E. Brink Cb CBE DSO Croix de
Guerre.
DESCRIPTION
A slate roof supports wooden beams. Benches are situated on each side. The names of
those who lost their lives are inscribed on tablets.
LOCATION
Adjoins the World War 1 Cenotaph.
Access
Open
CONDITION
Good
VISITORS
No records kept.
RECOMMENDATIONS
As for the Cenotaph, this should be regularly inspected and cleaned.
INTRODUCTION
Two committees were formed by the West Bank community during the First World War,
to raise money for the troops: the Ladies’ Comforts Fund and the Overseas Contigency
Fund. At the end of the war there was a small surplus of money and it was decided to
erect a memorial. Further costs were collected from the community. The memorial was
dedicated and unveiled by Lieut Colonel R.W. Currin (Office Commanding the
Kaffrarian Rifles) on 15 October 1921.
DESCRIPTION
The memorial takes the form of a white marble obelisk standing on a granite base.
A springbok badge and inscription “To the Glorious Dead 1914-1919” overlie
the names of the fallen on two panels. On the third panel, “1939-1945” has been
added with additional names. It is set in a small square, which abuts the
pavement, and is bounded by two stone walls and railings.
33
LOCATION
It is situated on the corner of Bank and Frere streets in the grounds of St Andrews
Presbyterian Church, West Bank.
ACCESS
Open
CONDITION
The monument is in good condition but of the four supporting concrete pillars which
support the railings, one is broken in half. Railings are also missing. Weeds are growing
through the paving.
RECOMMENDATION
Contact with the responsible church officials should be made. Council should be made
aware of this memorial and suggestions made that the pillars and railings be repaired. It
would not be difficult for the grounds men to keep the area weed free when they come to
mow the grass in St Alfred Square.
INTRODUCTION
The building of this memorial was apart of the building of the college when it moved to
the present site in 1923. The memorial was unveiled by Sir Frederick de Waal, then
Administrator of the Cape, on 8 November 1924. The inscription and names for those
who died in the Second World War were added later. Every year there is a service of
dedication “The Ceremony of the Key”. The Head boy is named in Custodian of the Key
and is handed the key to the enclosure. It is his responsibility to look after the
monument.
DESCRIPTION
A life size statue in Italian marble of a soldier stands on top of a dressed stone base. On
the side of the base is the coat of arms of the school and motto “Palme Virtuti” and
inscription “To the glory of God and in proud and loving memory of those old
Selbornians who laid their lives in the Great War 1914-1919. Their names lived for
ever”. On the four sides of the base are words “S.W. Africa, East Africa, Egypt and
Palestine, France and Belgium”. The names of those who died are inscribed.
Added late: “The World War 1939-1945 at the going down of the sun and in the morning
we will remember them”.
LOCATION
It is situated in the grounds of Selborne College, entry in Dawson Road.
34
ACCESS
Only with permission of the Headmaster, Mr S. Gunn
CONDITION
Excellent as maintained by the school.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Make contact with the staff and Headmaster
INTRODUCTION
Members of the parish raised funds to erect this memorial to their member who had died
in the First World War.
DESCRIPTION
LOCATION
It is situated in a niche next to the door of the Church on the Immaculate Conception,
close to the pavement, in Albany Street. Note: vehicle access from Buffalo Street is
closed, so entry is via Park Avenue of Beaconsfield Road.
ACCESS
Open
CONDITION
Good, but it has been painted rather crudely with a heavy layer of white paint.
RECOMMENDATION
Make contact with church officials to discuss the paint layer. A sentry box is situated
directly in front of the memorial, which detracts from it. This could be investigated.
The village of Cambridge was first proclaimed in 1904 and was a separate municipality
from East London. A separate town hall was in built 19….. The municipality decided
that their own memorial should be erected. The Cambridge Municipality was
incorporated into that of East London in 1942.
35
DESCRIPTION
A simple structure of blue granite was erected with the names of the fallen on a Roll of
Honour. It was unveiled and dedicated on Delville Day, 16 July 1922 by Brigadier Gen
J. Bryan.
LOCATION
In front of the old Cambridge Town Hall on Mayfair Street.
ACCESS
Open
CONDITIONS
Extremely Poor. The name bearing plaques have been removed.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Council should be reminded that this memorial also falls under their care.
Memorial Tablets:
Were in the vestibule of East London City Hall are now in the Kaffrarian Rifles
Museum. Names of Municipal employees.
Chamber of Commerce Hall EL Produce Association * cant be found
Railway Station – SA Railways & Harbors
DESCRIPTIONS
This is one of the most impressive war memorials in the Eastern Cape. It is a very tall
stone plinth surmounted by the figure of a winged victory.
LOCATION
Alexandra Road, King William Town
ACCESS
Public open space
36
CONDITION
Good
Tourism potential
A large proportion of international tourists are from Germany, and many find the Eastern
Cape/German connection of great interest. Marketing strategy to this end could be
directed specifically to the German interest group.
INTRODUCTION
Sir George Grey, Governor of the Cape from 1854 to 1862, wanted European settlers in
British Kaffraria in order to introduce the Xhosa speaking people to a European type of
society. The British government first offered Grey the military men of the British
German Legion, who had been recruited for the Crimean War, but had not seen service.
As a result, some 2362 military settlers landed at East London in 1857. They were given
grants of land, which were clearly situated to form the defensive lines. They named
many of the villages after their homes in Germany. The one line extended from East
London to Stutterheim (named for their commander, Baron von Stutterheim) and
included Postdam, Berlin, Marienthal, Frankfurt, Breidbach, Braunschweig and Greyton
(after Sir George Grey). The other group of settlements were situated along the
Keiskamma River; Hamburg, Bodiam, Bell and Wooldridge. This scheme was not a
success as military men did not make good agriculturalists and most left to serve in India.
Grey was convinced that German farmers would be more suitable settlers so entered into
an agreement with J.C. Goddefroy of Hamburg, German, for a further immigration
scheme. As a result, some 3407 immigrants arrived between 1858 and 1862 and were
settled in the already established villages. The new immigrants proved to be hardy and
hard working and, in spite of the many hardships which they faced, they survived and the
created a distinctive life style which adapted their German traditions to the exigencies of
their new lives. Communities united and celebrated both the 50th and centenary
anniversaries of their arrival in grand style. On their centenary, it was decided to raise
funds to build memorials in East London and King Williams Town. During the 1960s,
during the era of forced removals, many of the German Villages were taken over for
incorporation into the Ciskie, and the residents forced to move. The villages of Potsdam
and Greyton have gone and many of the churched have been deserted and vandalized.
SITES SELECTED
The East London and Amathole Museums have very good displays on German Settler
History.
37
46. GERMAN SETTLER’S MONUMENT, East London
INTRODUCTION
The foundation stone for the complex was laid in 1958 by Dr T.E. Donges, then Minister
of the Interior. It was the climax of the German Settler Centenary celebration held in
East London in 1958. The statue is the work of Lippy Lipschits, a well-known South
African sculptor. It was unveiled on 10 October 1960 by the then Governor General, the
Hon C.R. Swart. The plaques were designed and made by the German sculptor, Bodo
Kampmann and paid for by the German cities of Hamburg, Hannover and Braunsweig
and the West German government. The wall was unveiled on 4 September 1961 by the
West German Consul, Mr O.E. Heipertz. The memorial was designed by Mr J. Marsden,
architect, and constructed by H.M. Russel, contractor.
DESCRIPTION
The area consists of a group of sculptured figures on a plinth, five large plaques on
stepped walls against the hill and a garden. The larger than life-size imposing granite
sculpture is of a family group, mother, father and two children. Five bronze plaques
depict the story of the settlers.
LOCATION
The memorial is situated on the beach front, one street up from the Esplanade.
ACCESS
This is unrestricted as it is open. There is good parking.
RECOMMENDATIONS
Contact can be made with the German Association, which maintains this memorial. They
would be prepared to supply translators and/ or guides.
Contact Mrs G. Schuch, Tel. 748 – 3086
INTRODUCTION
This was also a product of the centenary celebrations. It was designed by Ivan Vincent,
an East London architect, who is a German Settler descendant.
DESCRIPTION
This memorial consists of a mounted block of stone framed by a stone arch and is
situated at the head of a fishpond. The stone was quarried in Germany, and brought to
the site.
38
LOCATION
It is situated in Prince Alfred Square, just off Alexandra Road and Smith Street
ACCESS
As it is an open air memorial there is no restriction and there is ample parking.
RECOMMENDATIONS
This is often looks neglected and the pool is empty. Council should be advised of their
responsibility in maintaining it, as tourists would not be impressed with the amount of
litter lying around.
INTRODUCTION
The German military settlers were not suited to be settlers and tended to be a troublesome
bunch. There was no military action at the time and, according to contemporary reports,
they spent their time hunting, playing cards and making trouble. Ohlsen was a military
settler, who was ostensibly “murdered”. The circumstances of his death are not known,
so the terms are questionable. The memorial is of interest as it gives some insight as to
white attitudes at the time.
DESCRIPTION
LOCATION
The memorial is situated on the corner of Sauer and Cambridge Street in King Williams
Town.
RECOMMENDATIONS
There is not much to see, but the implications and interpretation is of interest.
39
49. CHARLES VIX’S COTTAGE
INTRODUCTION
Charles Vix was a surgeon who accompanied the British German Legion to the Eastern
Cape in1856. He was given a grant of land in East London and a small cottage was built
on it probably in the 1850s. It has been surmised that this building constricted his
surgery. He did not leave the country with most of the legionaries, but remained in East
London. He must have died in the 1860s or 1870s, as his widow, Martha, is recorded as
living in Park Avenue in 1879. This is the only remaining German Settler house in East
London which has not been changed and modernized.
DESCRIPTION
This building is a small square cottage of two rooms. The walls are very thick and there
are small sash windows. The one room is furnished as John Gately’s office and the other
is used as a store.
LOCATION
In the grounds of Gately House.
ACCESS
The property is owned and administered by the East London Museum. There is access by
vehicle at the lower end of Beaconsfield Road, but it is better to telephone the Curator,
who will open the gates to park inside the grounds as vandalism is a problem. The other
access is via the zoo.
RECOMMENDATION
Should this become part of a German Settler tourist route, the Museum authorities to
open one of the rooms and furnish it in settler style.
A German Baptist church, ‘’Zoar’’, was established by a group of German settlers who
has arrived between 1858- 59. They were allocated 10 acre plots where they tried with
great difficulty, to make a leaving from the land. Many found added ways of making
income, such as establishing trading stores, selling cut flowers or taking any work, which
become available from time to time. The foundation stone of the church was laid in 1869
and the church was completed in 1871. The cemetery was attached to this church. The
church ceased to be used as a Baptist church some time in the 1930s and various other
denominations utilized and changed the building. A book with details of cemetery
records was compiled by Terry Archer. ‘’ the German settler cemetery in Tindale Road’’
has copies lodged in the East London Museum Library and Central Library, East London.
40
DESCRIPTION
This is a small accessible old cemetery set in a grove of trees. The headstone were
vandalized and maintenance was difficult, so in 1990 the remaining headstone were
removed to one area, so the property would be easier to maintain. A site maker with
information was erected on the property.
Location
A CCESS
RECOMMENDATION
This is a pleasant accessible spot for visitors interested in German settler history.
Mowing of the lawns tends to be sporadic and Council encouraged to care and maintain
this site as part of the historic heritage of the city.
INTRODUCTION
The German Military settlers were divided into three regiments. Berlin was chosen as the
headquarters of the 2nd Regiment under Lieutenant Count Rudolph von Ronow. He built
his house in the village of Charlottenburg. Officers received a better building allowance
than ordinary soldiers, so this was relatively large and comfortable one and can be
compared with Moser’s cottage which is situated nearby.
DESCRIPTION
This is a stone-built house probably built in 1857. The kitchen floor was ‘mis’ and the
original ceiling of calico. There is Dutch oven at the back. In 1896 Charlotte Louise
Winkelmann, window of a military settler bought the property, and was owned and
maintained for many years by Miss Louise Winkelmann, who died only a few years ago.
Moser’s cottage is also of stone, but only has two rooms. It was occupied by Franois
Joseph Moser in 1859 and in the Moser brought up their 10 children. Both these buildings
are declared National monuments.
LOCATION
41
ACCESS
Privately owned
CONDITION
They have not been maintained or cared for since the new owners moved in.
A German Settler Gallery has been created in the East London Museum. This has
information on the history of the Settlers, a diorama of a country cottage with wagons and
agricultural equipment on display. The interior of a home belonging to Mr. F. Alberti, a
wealthy wool buyer from East London is also on display reflecting a comparison of rich
and poor homes. Further information on the German Settlers can be obtained from the
Librarian and/ or the historian at the museum.
The German also settled around King Williams Town and the Amathole Museum reflects
aspects of their history in a gallery display. Other information can also be obtained from
the library and curator of history.
INTRODUCTION
East London was founded to serve as a supply port for the military during the frontier
wars. King Williams Town had been established as the headquarters for military
operations and it was decided that the mouth of the Buffalo River was deep enough for
vessels to enter and to off load. The actual founding date has had two interpretations. Sir
Harry Smith, Governor of the Cape at the time, issued a proclamation, dated 27
December, 1847, which stated that ‘the rising town at the mouth of buffalo river to be
called London’. Some confusion evidently arose as ‘’one would think that a flying
machine had been invented as the trip from Cape Town to London took only 3 days’’,
and on 11 January 1848, the second proclamation was issued which named the town East
London.
The first settlement took place on west bank where a small jetty was built. Trade
followed the military and soon a small community was established. The military
however, maintained tight control and strangled any development for many years. Once
their control had been lifted in the late 1860s, the possibilities for the growth in
commerce become more positive. The establishment of the railway terminus at the port
gave a great boost to the economy, but as it was situated on the east bank, most of the
business men moved their homes and work from the west bank. The belief that ships
42
could enter the harbour with ease proved unfounded and until the first dredger arrived in
1880, ships had to anchor in the roadstead and wrap passengers and goods ashore in surf
boats.
East London has never been a town favored by successive governments, so development
has been sporadic. The Anglo-Boer War boosted commerce and many fine buildings
date to the early 1900s. The wool trade also played a part in an economic upsurge and
many Art Deco buildings of the 1930s indicate that period of prosperity.
SITE SELECTED
Bakers Wells, Prince Alfred Square, West Bank Post Office, wood and iron houses,
wooden houses, Erf No 1, West Bank School, West Bank Cemetery, Grand Prix Race
Track, Gately House, Station, Old Anglican cemetery, Queens park, City Hall, Old
Library, Cuthbert’s, old Standard Bank, Ann Bryant Art Gallery, Kimmerling’s Plaque,
old Wool Exchange, Calgary transport Museum, Mrs. Sonthi’s House, Mdantsane.
This was the first area to be settled and unlike most cities in the country where the CBD
has flattened the oldest buildings, the West Bank retains its scale and atmosphere. Black
inhabitants occupied a “Location” where the present Daimler Chrysler plant is now
situated. The first white residents were military personnel, those who were employed by
the harbour and those engaged in somewhat precarious trading ventures.
The first water supply for the little village was found by a military officer, Captain Baker
of the 73rd Highlanders. The original fresh water spring was situated below the Hood
Point Lighthouse and on the sea side of the present road. In 1879, the spring was
dammed in three places higher up the slope and piped to the village. These became
known as Baker’s Wells erroneously. The remains of the stone retaining walls can still
be seen below the West Bank Golf Course. The engineering firms who are working on
the marine outfall pipe have promised to erect a sign to identify the site.
On the corner of Dale and Strand Streets is Efr No 1, the 3rd plot sold to a civilian in
1849. Descendants of the first owner presented the erf to the City and a plaque attached
to a stone, marks the site.
43
Many of the houses in West Bank date to the 1850s and 1860s, especially those in Strand,
Smith and High Streets and east of Alexandria Street. Wood and iron houses are
common as this was a form of building construction which inexpensive, easy to erect and
could be easily transported if a venture was unsuccessful. Some have been plastered over
and cement pillars replacing the original wooden veranda supports.
34 High Street and? Strand Street are two very early wooden houses which have been
“modernized”. They both date to the 1850s. There are very few existing examples of
this type of construction in the country and should be preserved.
This building was erected as the first Magistrate’s Court, Customs House and Revenue
Office in 1866. In 1882, the Magistrate’s Court was moved to Panmure and the building
became a Post Office. It is a National Monument. The Norfolk Pine, which stands next
to the building, was planted in 1874 by the Resident Magistrate at the time, Arthur Orpen
.
59. WEST BANK SCHOOL, Hood Street
The first school in East London was started by the rector of St Peter’s Church and was for
boys only. The original section of the present building was erected in 1881. Later
additions were made.
This was laid out in 1879 and contains many graves of great interest. These include
George Walker, Harbor Master from 1850 to 1876, Colonel John MacLean, Governor of
British Kaffraria from 1860-1864 and an “unknown Seaman”
This race circuit was constructed on the West Bank in 1935 and for many years was an
international Grand Prix Circuit. Here raced most of the famous name in international
racing of the 1930s and 1950s. The venue was moved to Johannesburg in the 1960s.
44
63. GATELY HOUSE
INTRODUCTION
This was home of John Gately, an Irish immigrant who was a successful businessman.
He was a leading personality in early East London and one of the founders of the
municipal council. The house became the property of the East London Museum in 1966
and is administered by the Museum.
DESCRIPTION
Gately House is a single-storey house with a veranda on three sides set in a pleasant
garden. Built in 1876, it is an excellent example of a modest Victorian home and is one
of the only House Museums in the country which contains the original furniture. There
are very fine pieces of furniture such as balloon-back chairs, a magnificent mahogany
dining table and leather button-back suite. This is a proclaimed National Monument.
LOCATION
The house adjoins Queens Park
ACCESS
This can be accessed through Queens Park and the Zoo, but the road is overgrown and
vehicle access in limited. The main entrance is at the end of Beaconsfield Road but can
be difficult to find. Instruction can be obtained from the Museum and a telephone call to
the Curator will ensure that the gate will be opened and parking can be done safely within
the grounds. Hours: Tuesdays to Saturdays: 09h30-12h30 and 15h00-17h00, Sundays:
15h00-17h00. Telephone: 043-722 2141
DESCRIPTIONS
This impressive stone complex was built in 1880 to accommodate the law-breakers of a
growing town. A gallow room and death cells formed part of the old goal and the first
execution was carried out in 1882. From 1935, all executions were carried out in
Pretoria. In 1954 it became a prison for women only. Many famous people were
incarcerated here, including Daisy de Melker and Winnie Madikizela-Mandela. In 1979
the prison was closed and building abandoned. The Small Business Development
Corporation took it over in 1980 and developed a hive of shops for small businesses.
There is a display on the history of the goal in the old gallows section.
LOCATION
Lock Street, off Fleet Street
ACCESS
Free
45
65. OLD ANGLICAN CEMETERY
Although situated adjoining the old Lock Street Gaol, this old graveyard predates the
prison. It was originally attached to Grace Chapel, established by the Anglican Church in
1858 and was situated on the corner of Fleet and Station Streets. The mission was not
very successful and with the building of St Johns church, the congregation moved there.
The construction of the Lock Street Gaol in 1880 also made the situation less desirable.
The property was sold to the Municipal Council by the church in 1909 “on condition that
he land shall be put into a proper state of repair and be conserved as public property”.
The cemetery was maintained in relatively good order by the prison authorities until the
Gaol was closed in 1980. In 1985 the Small Business Development Association took
over the property and proposed to flatten the cemetery for a car park. After strenuous
objections by the Historical Society, it was agreed to retain the portion in which most of
the graves were situated, exhume the graves and remove the headstones and relocate
them to the designated space. The contractors arrived with their bulldozers and
proceeded to smash and break the headstones. There was an outraged protest from the
Society and members of the public and the contractors had to mend the headstones.
Three graves were never exhumed and were buried under the park with the loss of three
headstones. The remaining graves date from 1875 to 1882.
LOCATION
Lock Street, off Fleet Street, adjoining the parking area
ACCESS
Free
Land was set aside for a Botanical Garden in 1880. Gardens were laid out with carriage
drives and pathways. In 1890, visiting Governor, Sir Henry Loch, opened the park
official giving it the name of Queen’s Park, to honour Queen Victoria, then in the 53rd
year of her reign. It was proclaimed a National Monument to protect he valuable exotic
and indigenous vegetation, when road-makers threatened to drive a road through the
middle. The wrought-iron gates were given by three leading businessmen, Sir Donald
Currie, John Stroyan and James Georgeson, in 1894.
LOCATION
Entrance at the lower end of Park Avenue
ACCESS
Free to the park, but the old pathways have not been maintained. The Zoo occupies much
of the land today
46
67. CITY HALL
INTRODUCTION
The 1890s saw remarkable growth in East London as wool became a valuable export.
The City Hall is a very visible symbol of the faith, which the leaders of the community
had in the future of the town at the time. The foundation stone was laid in 1897, the same
year that Queen Victoria celebrated her Diamond Jubilee. It was decided to name the
clock tower in her honour, the Victoria Tower. The building was completed in 1899, but
the opening celebrations ere muted as the Anglo-Boer War was declared in the same
month. This is a declared National Monument.
DESCRIPTION
The large elaborate late Victorian structure dominates the cityscape of East London. East
London became a “city” in 1914 and only then did the “Town Hall” become the “City
Hall”. An excellent programmed of restoration in 1987 saw much of the supporting
fabric being installed as the tower and gables had become dangerously unsteady.
LOCATION
Oxford Street
ACCESS
Free, but as this is still a building in use, it would be preferable to get permission from the
caretaker.
RECOMMENDATIONS
It could be on interest to have guided tours available.
A public library was established as early as1876, but the first premises proved inadequate
and were described as a “rabbit hutch”. As the population grew rapidly in the 1890s and
early 1900s, funds were raised for a capacious new building. The foundation stone was
laid by Mrs. W.H. Fuller on 17 June 1905 and officially opened by Sir Walter Hely-
Hutchinson. The “Greek Temple” colonnaded façade was designed by a local firm of
architects, Page NAD Cordeax. It is a National Monument.
LOCATION
Corner of Argyle and Cambridge Streets.
ACCESS
This is owned by the City Council. The interior is not of much significance
47
69. CUTHBERT’S BUILDING
This is another splendidly ornate building, which demonstrates the confidence which
commercial enterprise had in the future. It was built in 1900 to house a branch of the
new Cape Town shoe store, started by Mr. W. Cuthbert. It is a National Monument.
LOCATION
Corner of Gladstone and Oxford Street, opposite the City Hall
ACCESS
The façade is of interest as the interior has been changed too often to have any
significance
The original premises Standard Bank were on the market square and housed in a small
wooden structure. The dignified building in Terminus Street was erected in 1900 and
expanded to the corner site in 1927, with the architects carefully matching the original
design. The corner entrance has a small cupola and the entrance hall has a beautiful
stained glass clerestory window, which are of interest. The building is at present owned
by the Provincial Government; it is a proclaimed National Monument.
LOCATION
Corner of Cambridge and Terminus Street
ACCESS
By request at the door
71. ANN BRYANT ART GELLERY
INTRODUCTION
This elegant house reflects the way Victorian men were prepared to demonstrate their
success in decorating their residences. In this case, the owner’s confidence was
misplaced. It was built in 1905 by Arthur Savage, who had made money during the
profiteering time of the Anglo-Boer War, but who had lost it in the subsequent
depression. It was bought by Mr. E.A. Bryant, a more successful businessman. He and
his wife were interested in art and built up a private collection. When she died, she
bequeathed the property and the collection to the City. It was officially opened as an Art
Gallery in 1947.
DESCRIPTION
This is a double-storey home set in the original spacious grounds. It has two elaborate
gables surmounted by chimneys. There are beautiful stained glass windows.
LOCATION
The block between Oxford Street and Belgrave Road.
48
ACCESS
Opening Hours – Mondays to Fridays; 09h30 – 17h00, Saturdays; 09h30 – 12h00.
Telephone 043 722 4044
East London was the scene for the first powered flight in the country. At the invitation of
the Gala Committee of East London Town Council, Albert Kimberling, a Frenchman,
brought his 50 horsepower biplane to East London. On 29 December 1909, he made the
first controlled power flight in South Africa on the then Nahoon Race Course. Sterling
High School and the Bunkers Hill sports field are situated on the old race course.
LOCATION
The plaque commemorating this event is attached to a rock on the corner of Gleneagles
Road and M13.
East London became a centre for trading in wool during the 1890s, with the buying and
selling of wool mainly in the hand of wool brokers, usually by auction. As the wool
industry grew, co-operatives for brokers and buyers were formed. In 1928 the East
London Wool and Mohair Buyers Association decided to build a “Wool Exchange”,
which was completed in 1930. In 1981, wool buying was moved to Port Elizabeth. The
building was purchased by Rhodes University for the site of their new East London
campus in 1982. It is a National Monument.
LOCATION
On the corner f Hill and Station Streets
ACCESS
This building is in use. A visit could be arranged with permission of the university
authorities. Telephone 043 704 7000
This is a comprehensive collection of vehicles used in transport in the Eastern Cape over
the past 150 years.
LOCATION
13 kilometers from East London on the N6
ACCESS
A small entry fee. Open Mondays to Sundays 09h00 -06h30. Good parking. Telephone
043 730 7244
49
This home was an original wood and iron municipal council house, which escaped being
demolished during the forcible removals in the 1960s. It was erected in the 1920s and
had substantial additions in 1958. This is an example of a house of the East Bank
Location, later named Duncan Village.
LOCATION
ACCESS
Privately owned
RECOMMENDATION
More background information on the Sontshi family should be obtained. The house is
still owned by a Mr Sontshi
76. MDANTSANE
By the 1940s, living quarters for black East London workers were hard to find and the
existing locations and Duncan Village were overcrowded. In 1954 the City Engineer was
requested to find space for expansion, especially on suitable land adjoin Duncan Village.
This survey was refused by the national government and the area was declared to be for
whites only. Areas near Newlands, Mecleantown, Kwelegha and a farm “Umdanzani”,
were examined. The latter was found to be suitable as it lay alongside the national road
and railway line, and in 1958 the new site was declared.
The municipality undertook the planning which was based on the “neighborhood
concept” of a garden city, first suggested by E Howard in 1898. This envisaged a central
CBD with neighborhoods clustering around it. In each neighborhood there would be low
order central areas, which would house shops, churches and educational facilities. The
nature of the topography, ridges and valleys, dictated much of the layout, which tried to
avoid the formal grid pattern and worked around curves, loops and triangles. By the end
of 1963 the first 300 residents occupied the new houses.
In 1966 it was proclaimed a “Ciskie Homeland” town and excised from East London.
The advantage at least was that this did allow for freehold title. It was originally only
intended to make provision for 120 000, but it grew very rapidly and today has 18 zones.
The East London Museum has much to interest visitors on the History of East London.
50
RECOMMENDATIONS
The above list has mainly utilized the proclaimed national monuments but there are many
more building and sites which tell the story of the history of East London and Mdantsane.
Some of the sites have been incorporated in other sections
The contribution of the Coloured, Chinese and Indian communities has not been
recognized. Consultations with these communities could be helpful as many have
retained much of their respective cultural heritages.
Mr. Jeremy Watson, and architect with a knowledge and interest of the built heritage
compiled a book, The Urban Trail, which identified several walking trails through East
London and which gave the history of each building encountered. Since its publication in
1989, many of the buildings have been demolished. Mr. Watson began an updated
version, but then left to settle in Scotland. It would extremely useful if contact could be
made with Mr. Watson and the updated version obtained
From this information tourism leaflets or brochures could be compiled for selected tours.
These would be of interest to both local people, as well as tourist and would be
particularly valuable for educational purposes.
During the course of the War of the Axe (1846- 1847) the town was re-established by the
new governor, Sir Harry smith. From this date King Williams Town slowly grew and
prospered as administrative, military, and economic and education centre of British
Kaffraria. The province was incorporated into the Cape Province in 1866.
This National Monument was built between 1856 and 1859 for the black population of
British Kaffraria. The imposing bell tower and double story wings were designed by E.
Pilkington. The building boasted piped water and a novel ventilation system. The timber
for the large entrance door is said to have recovered from the wreck of the ‘’Lady
Kennaway’’.
The neo-Gothic building now housing the Missionary Museum (a satellite of the
Amathole Museum) was built in 1855 as a Wesleyan Chapel and was subsequently used
51
by the Baptist congregation. When semi-derelict it was bought by Historical Homes of
S.A., restored and converted into Museum in 1973 it was proclaimed a National
Monument in 1975. The displays include the Albion press which was used by the Rev.
John Appleyard to print the first complete Xhosa Bible at Mount Coke Mission, outside
King William’s Town.
This double –storey manse, adjacent to the old Methodist church, was erected in
approximately 1855. The wooden balcony, stretching from one side of the façade to the
other, was a later addition. It has been renovated recently to accommodate the Potter’s
House, a Christian fellowship. It was declared a National Monument in 1975.
Built in 1908, this architecturally interesting and well- preserved building portrays the
architecture of the turn of the century. It received national monument status in 1975.
This double-storey building with its classical features was completed in 1924. It is named
after J.F. Lonsdale, a founder member and later secretary of British Kaffrarian Savings
Bank. It was proclaimed as a National Monument in 1979.
79.6 THE RESIDENCY, c/o RESERVE ROAD AND PRICE ALFRED SQUARE
It was erected in about 1846 on the spot where the dwelling house of Rev John Brownlee
stood after his arrival in 1826 as missionary of the London Missionary Society. The
original dwelling was twice gutted by fire. Government House, as it was later known as,
accommodated many visitors including governors and Princes Alfred (1860). It served as
the residence of successive magistrate and was proclaimed a National Monument in
1977.
This stone building was officially opened as a railway station in 1877. Until the
construction of the present station in 1933, trains were required to enter King William’s
Town in reverse and then exit along the same route to link up with the main line. It has
been used as a school and for the offices. The entrance originally had a square gable with
an inscription “EL & QR “It was declared a National Monument in 1979.
This mid-nineteenth century national monument was built by an officer along the lines of
a ‘typical English farms house’. The house was originally thatched. Aspects of interest
are the neo-Gothic windows and the Victorian wooden
Balcony.
52
79.9. OLD POST OFFICE AND MAGISTRATE’S COURT BUILDING, ALEXANDRA ROAD
This predominantly neo-Gothic building date from the 1850’s and was used for several
decades as Wesleyan school house, with a bell tower over the front entrance. The first
council meeting in King William’s Town was held here, due to the fact that it was one of
the largest halls in the Old Town at the time. In 1908 the building was converted in to
synagogue. It was proclaimed as a National Monument in 1980. In the late 1980’s the
Synagogue was closed and it is used today by local Christian fellowship.
The foundation stone was laid in 1866 and the building was officially opened the
following year. During the Frontier War of 1877-78 it was used as the headquarters of the
Civil Defense Force. Large scale alterations were made from 1899 to 1902; and it was
officially re-opened in 1904.The impressive sloping stage is a reminder of a bygone era.
The Town Hall received National Monument status in 1980.
This typical Victorian building with its neo-classical features was designed and built to
commemorate Queen Victoria’s sixtieth birthday. It still retains its military air and is now
used by the Amatole Commando. The Drill Hall is a proclaimed National Monument.
53
magazine was constructed in two stages, probably between 1852 and 1862 and between
1864 and 1875. Unfortunately the masonry joints have been repainted in an
uncharacteristic manner while under renovation. Magazines consist of square stone
buildings with a brick barrel-vaulted ceiling. Flat roofs are of pitch-covered cement.
Much of the ammunition used by soldiers of the British Regiment in the Frontier Wars
was stored here. I t received National Monument status in 1981.
The Rev John Brownlee established the Buffalo Mission Station at present –day King
William’s Town in 1826. In about 1847 he was forced by the military authorities to move
his mission where this church was built in 1860 .The church is a National Monument.
The officer’s Mess, a declared National Monument, dates from the early 1850’s. In the
heart of the military Reserve, it served the military until the Reserve was abandoned in
the 1920s. In 1925 it became the residence of the Principal of Excelsior School. It is now
part of the King Campus of Lovedale FET Collage. Although it has since undergone
extensive reconstruction the historic core of the original building is still extant.
Corrugated iron was placed over the original thatched roof and gables were added to the
front.
A stone cairn and National Monument Council plaque were erected at this spot to mark
the site of this small earthen redoubt. The stone blockhouse was nicknamed ‘Fort Mertz’
54
and was one of the outlying defends of the Military Reserve. It was demolished in the
1970’s.
This delightful Victorian public building was erected largely as results of the efforts of
Thomas Daines, pharmacist at the Grey Hospital. Originally completed in 1877, the
building became part of the Amatole Museum in 1967 and is known as the Daines Wing,
housing a 19th century local history display. It is a declared National Monument.
This National Monument was completed in1892 to house the collections of the king
Williams TOWN Naturalist Society which had been found in1884. It now contains part
of the well-known Shortridge Mammal Collection and is the home of Huberta, the
famous wandering hippo.
These building were partially completed as early as 1849 and the present ones dates from
about 1875. Part of the complex was occupied by the first Conservator of Forests in the
Eastern Cape Conservancy, Joseph Storr Lister, from 1890 until 1905.
This substantial stone building was erected in 1862 and considerably altered over the
years. It does however; retain some of its 19th century atmosphere.
The square, stone smithy, part of the military complex in King William’s Town, was built
in what was originally the grounds of the Rev John Brownlee’s Buffalo Mission. An
aspect worth noting is the ventilated roof, built to allow the escape of warm air from
inside the building.
The blue-stone national monument was completed in 1933 and was sympathetically
designed to blend in with historic surroundings. The Deeds Office dates back to 1858
when it was established to exercise control over British Kaffraria and was originally
housed in the adjacent Magistrate’s Court.
55
95. HOLY TRINITY CHURCH AND RING WALL, PRINCE ALFRED SQUARE
The foundation stone was laid in 1850 and the local military were responsible for the
initial construction of the foundation and walls. With the outbreak of the Eighth Frontier
War in 1850 the building operations were postponed and building was completed in 1856
by local builders. The tower was added in 1932. It received National Monument status
in 1986.
Built in 1904 to house the Sun Insurance Company, this impressive two-storey building
was originally sandstone colored and has distinct touches of Art Nouveau. It now
contains lawyer’s offices and a local bank group. This national monument displays
beautifully engraved glass panels with the sun emblem as well as the shiny copper sun at
the entrance, which reminds the visitor of the building’s origins. It was declared a
National Monument in 1988.
On the pavement opposite the Missionary Museum can be found an upright stone with
the engraved letters ‘BO’. This ‘Board of Ordnance’ stone marked the boundary of the
Military Reserve and is one of three such stones still in existence in the town.
98. Fitzpatrick Court, Durban Street
This large building was constructed c. 1862 as the private residence of Judge J. C.
Fitzpatrick, first judge of the Supreme Court in British Kaffraria and father of Sir Percy
Fitzpatrick. After Judge Fitzpatrick’s transfer from British Kaffraria it was used as the
premises of the collegiate school for girls, the forerunner of today’s Kaffrarian High
School. It is now a block of flats.
This commemorates the arrival of the British German Legionaries of 1857 and the
German (civilian) Settlers of 1858/9. The pillar feature represents the Brandenburg Gate,
a feature of the once-walled city of Berlin. The water represents the sea and the names of
the ships which transported the immigrants out, are inscribed around the pond. On the
west wall behind the ‘Brandenburg gate’ are listed the settlements to which the
immigrants were sent. The central feature of the monument is a drift stone on a plinth of
local granite, a gift from the German government who shipped out the stone to South
Africa and saw to its delivery to King William’s Town.
This was the first cemetery in King William’s Town and was used from 1848 to 1864.
The open piece of ground on the far side of the cemetery marks the spot where casualties
56
of the Cattle Killing were buried in mass graves in 1857. The present layout of the
cemetery dates from the early 1970s when it was extensively refurbished after falling into
an advance state of deterioration.
This blue-stone memorial with bronze figures was erected to the memory of the men of
the town and district who were killed during the First World War (1914-1918). Plaques
were later added to include the area’s victims of the 1939-1945 war. The list includes the
names of six members of the South African Native Labour Corps who lost their lives in
the S.S Mendi disaster in the English Channel in 1917.
Originally established at Mount Coke in 1835, it was refounded in the vicinity during
1846-47. The fort’s main function was to guard the King William’s Town/East London
road. It is associated with a variety of historical characters, such as Col John Maclean
(Chief Commissioner of British Kaffraria ), who lived just outside the fort from 1848-
1862. Members of the British German Legion were housed at the fort in 1857 and the two
prophetesses Nonqawuse and Nonkosi were detained there for some time after the cattle
killing Movement. It was abandoned in 1867 and was proclaimed a National Monument
in 1977.
In 1967 seventy families were relocated to area subsequently named Dimbaza- meaning a
place where rubbish is dumped. They came from as far away as Middleburg and the
Karoo. Due to the harsh living conditions hundreds of children died of malnutrition,
tuberculosis and preventable diseases such as measles. Whereas other towns are built
around a civic square, a town hall or shops, Dimbaza’s centre is the children’s cemetery
containing many unmarked graves.
In the 1970s over 20 factories were established in Dimbaza following the international
outrage that the children’s cemetery provoked. Taking advantage of the Ciskei’s
extensive tax rebates and high financial inducements the factories, mostly foreign-owned,
were built in an attempt to transform Dimbaza into a showcase of industrial opportunity.
When the incentives and subsidies were removed inthe1990’s however, many of the
factories closed down or moved elsewhere.
The politics of resistance to the South African and Ciskei governments were ever-present
in Zwelitsha. Student protests and uprisings, underground political organizations and
horrifying moments of police brutality were ingrained into the life of the town. On 23
July 1985 a protest meeting was held at Nompendulo High School to enforce a
democratically elected student body. Student demands were drafted and handed over to
the school principal. He did not cooperate, refused to address the students and called the
57
police. They demanded immediate dispersal, but the students refused and after the use of
teargas and assault pandemonium broke out. Many students were subsequently arrested.
Fleeing scholars attempted to cross the Buffalo River, adjacent to the school, and in the
process at least three students drowned. A memorial commemorating the school tragedy
was unveiled on 23 July 2000 on the school grounds by Rev M. Stofile, Premier of the
Eastern Cape.
The house of the prominent Black consciousness leader, Bantu Stephen Biko (1946-
1977) was proclaimed a National Monument in 1997. Biko lived in Ginsberg from the
age of four until his death in 1977. Biko symbolized the philosophy of black self respect
and the call; to black people to raise themselves by their own efforts. His philosophy
played a major role in shaping black politics in South Africa.
Steve Biko died on 12 September 1977 from police torture and assault in detention. The
circumstances resulting in his death still beg a complete explanation. He was buried on
17 September in Ginsberg after services were held at the Victoria Grounds in King
William’s Town Biko’s funeral was attended by an estimated 17 000 people.
On 12 September 1997, a bust of the fallen hero was unveiled and the Steve Biko Garden
of Remembrance was officially opened by former president, Mr. Nelson Mandela
A memorial situated on the road between the Kind and Bisho just opposite the stadium,
has been erected. Most of the fallen were buried in the new Ginsberg cemetery.
The anti-apartheid activists and human rights lawyers, Griffiths and Victoria Mxenge are
buried outside King William’s Town. They were married in 1964 and moved to Durban.
Their lives were much affected by frequent bannings, detentions and imprisonment, but
they both handled many high-profile and political cases. They were both assassinated by
security force hit squads in 1981 and 1985, respectively.
58
Historical King William’s Town and Zwelitsha
Compiled by Stephen Pienaar, Historian,
Amathole Museum
INTRODUCTION
The climatic and oceanographic features of he Eastern Cape coast make it one of the
most dangerous in the world. There are 150 shipwrecks between Hood Point and
Gonubie alone.
The Buffalo River offered a sheltered refuge for ships to land military supplies during the
frontier wars and the town of East London grew up around the port activities. In 1847,
small ships could enter the river and anchor at a small jetty erected on the west bank .It
soon become clear that the river mouth was usually clogged with san and ships could
only enter after a small flood. Efforts to narrow the mouth by constructing ‘Training
Walls’ to concentrate the flow were unsuccessful. A breakwater was built to shelter the
mouth in 1880, but it was not until 1886, when a dredger was introduced, that ships could
enter the quiet waters of the port. As ships became larger, so the limitations of a narrow
mouth were exposed and the banks had to be widened. There were six river ports along
the Cape coast during the 19th century, but East London is the only one to have survived.
113The Breakwater
The first part was constructed in 1876 – the half round protuberance about half way along
the wall shows the original length.
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The old Victorian Slipway on the west bank, where small ships could be repaired was
completed in 1897.
The Kings Warehouse, a customs building, with its imposing clock tower (clock now
missing), was built in 1904. It is a National Monument.
The Orient Pier on the East bank was completed in 1929.
In 1935 part of the East bank was excavated, to form a Turning Basin for the larger
ships.
Before this, passengers and cargo had to be unloaded onto lighters or tugs out in a basket
out in the roadstead.
During the Second World War, a Graving Dock was constructed where shipping repairs
could be undertaken. In 1959 the harbor was widened further by excavating on the west
bank.
The Grain Elevator was built in 1966
The breakwater protecting the East London Harbour was constantly being bettered and
damaged by high seas so common along the Eastern Cape shores. Eric Merrifield,
Harbour Engineer at East London, embarked on a project to design a block which would
interlock and break the force of waves. The result was a concrete block shaped like a
twisted anchor. They were first used in 1966.
Models of dolos and its story can be seen in East London Museum and lining the outer
rim of the breakwater.
The need for lighthouse along the coasts to worn ships of danger was recognized during
the 19th century, and prior the electricity, gas or paraffin light and mirrors were used. East
London had one such, Castle Point Lighthouse, built of wood and situated on the West
bank at the mouth of buffalo river. By 1890s East London was one of the fastest growing
ports in the Cape and the existing lighthouse was inadequate. The Hood Point Lighthouse
was built and the light was first lit on 4 June 1895, visible for 31 sea miles.
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DISCRIPTION
This is a conical structure of bricks and cement. It was originally painted in squares of
red and white, but today is only white.
LOCATION
West Bank, entrance off the road to the West Bank Golf Club.
ACCESS
Permission may be obtained for tourist visiting by permission of the port Manager.
117. SHIPWRECKS
Hundreds of ships have come to grief along the inhospitable shores of south – east Africa.
The earliest were those of the Portuguese, which sailed to India during 1500 and 1600s.
There are three of these sites along the Buffalo City shores: the Santo Alberto of 1593 at
the sunrise on sea, the Madre de Deus of 1643 at the Bonza Bay and the Antalaia of 1647
at Cintsa East. By the 19th century, coastal trade increased and the severe storms saw
ships being wrecked in great numbers. The earliest wreck at the East London harbor was
the Ghika in 1847. The Lady Kennaway ( Kennaway Hotel) of 1856 came ashore where
the Orient pier now stands and very low water, some of the spars can be seen. Most of the
ships were wrecked during the 1870s and 1880, before dredging allowed entrance into the
more protected waters of the harbour. The Orient (Orient Beach) was wrecked in a storm
in 1907. Many of the street names in Quigney were named for ship wrecks (egg Brighton
and) even in modern times, Oranjeland came to grief off the coast in 1986 and the
Sagittarius in2002.
A series of mounted plaques in the front of Hood Point list some of famous shipwrecks of
Buffalo City Coast. A series of plaques listing six of more of the famous shipwrecks are
embedded in the low sea-wall along the Esplanade, placed there by the Boarder Historical
Society. Blind River, Bonza Bay: Madre de Deus – 1647. Cintsa East a Monument to the
Nossa Senhora da Atalaia, wrecked between Cintsa and Centane in 1647 stands in the
village. The site is a proclaimed a National Monument.
All artifacts from these sites are protected by an act of Parliament. Funds should be
handed in to the East London Museum.
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There are two galleries devoted to Maritime History. The one features the Portuguese,
Dutch and English shipwrecks as well as well as displays on the Oceanos (1992) and the
Grosvenor (1783). There is gallery where the full history of horbour is shown.
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NATURAL HISTORY
NATURE RESERVES (INCLUDING TRAILS) AND
BEACHES OF BUFFALO CITY
Nature Reserves
120. Umtiza Nature Reserves
This reserve is under the authority of East Cape Nature Conservation (Provincial
Department of Economic Affairs Environment and Tourism) and conserves the special
endemic tree the Umtiza (Umtiza listerana) and a number of other valuable tree species,
including the cycads. From mammal perspective fortunate visitors may see the Samango
monkeys –these primates are not widely distributed in South Africa and follow a patchy
distribution along the forested eastern areas of the country.
The Reserve has a public road running through it with separate trails on either side for
free visitor access (a self issuing permit system is in place). Three routes have been well-
marked, a 1.5 km, 2.5 km and a 7 km track each highlighting unique flora of this forest
fragment.
Established in 1985, approximately 758 ha of forest has been protected with occasional
exotic from previous plantation. Access to the reserve is via Buffalo Pass which crosses
the Buffalo River when one leaves Buffalo City traveling westward
Visitors can walk selected routes in the area, spend time at a dam or picnic at designated
sites. Bushbucks, duiker, cape clawless otter, vervet monkey’s and mongoose also occur
and birdwatching is productive throughout the year.
Unfortunately a low income housing project adjacent to the reserve has created an edge
effect as all indigenous plants were bull-dozed for the development.
Ablutions are not presently available and the reserve lacks the necessary funding to
maintain it in a satisfactory condition. This 134 ha reserve was established in 1968
around the Amalinda reservoir. Three main vegetation communities are found in the area,
namely, open Aacacia karoo dominated savannah, open to close bushveld and riverine
forest.
Gonubie Nature Reserve
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This reserve was established in 1995 (the fifth oldest to be proclaimed in the country) to
conserve a wetland habitat and associated bird, plants and animals species. It is 8 ha in
extent and has a well-established walking route which circumvents the fenced area,
including a bird hide overlooking an open body of water. This makes it ideal for
birdwatchers interested in wetland species.
This reserve also has a small interpretive center with bird and animal lists and brief
history of the area. Ablutions are available and visitors are encouraged to utilize benches
and open spaces for picnicking.
This municipal reserve is located in the suburb of Gonubie and is only open to the public
at a certain times during the week. Access by appointment can also be arranged through
the local authority. The place name Gonubie is derived from lqunube – the fruit of the
bramble.
Beaches
The beach, however, has an informal lauch site for small craft which contradicts the
present regulations which regard to bathing beach in the area.
A restaurant in close by for meals and refreshments and safe parking is available. Life-
guards are on duty during holiday season.
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covers slopes will reveal many flowering plant species, including the red-hot pocker, a
blaze of colour in late spring to early summer.
The area hold a lot of historical significance and is still used to them for religious
ceremonies by the local people. A proposal has been submitted to heritage authorities to
have the area declared a provincial heritage site.
Ablution facilities are good and well maintained. A large car park supports visitor
accessibility to this beach.
Ablutions are maintained and life-guard to duty for a good part of the year due to high
visitor numbers. Some picnic facilities have been provided close to this beach at ‘Little
Mauritius’ with additional ablutions.
The area does, however, become congested during peak holiday time and parking can be
a problem.
Nahoon Beach has another smaller river, the Inhlanza (also closed for most of the year),
running down from the near suburbs of Bonnie Doon and Nahoon. This river is excellent
for birdwatching and has a lot of potential for the development of walking route towards
the driving range.
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The beach has ablution and showering facilities and a number of car parks. Those are,
however, inadequate during the peak holiday season.
Reasonable ablution facilities are provided and children can enjoy ‘water tube’ rides at
the entrance to the beach close to the river mouth. The mouth is closed for the most part
of the year. Fishing on the Quenera River is also popular.
The wide expanse of the sandy estuary flood plain and well vegetated cliffs create
sheltered ‘amphitheartre’ for safe controlled leisure activities such as bathing, boating,
windsurfing and fishing.
Compiled by:
1. -G.N. Vernon
-G. Morcom
-K. Cole
East London Museum (043 – 743 0686)
2. -Stephen Pienaar
Amathole Museum (043) -
3. -Mzodidi Kwinana
Culture Heritage Coordinator
Arts and Cultural Services
Buffalocity Municipality
Tel: (043) 722 0730
Fax: (043) 722 0739
CEL: 073 194 100 1
Email [email protected]
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