Lesson 4

TOOLS FOR CLOTHING CONSTRUCTION AND NEEDLE WORK

Introduction:

Classification and uses of different clothing construction tools. Besides a sewing machine in good
condition well selected sewing equipment and pressing equipment are essential for making garments of
good quality and appearance. Tools mentioned below include specialized items which may be
uncommon and perhaps even unavailable in India, but as a clothing student it is desirable that you
should be familiar with them. They are illustrated in the Fig

Learning Objectives;

At the end of this lesson, you are expected to:

 Select suitable clothing construction tools for given application.

Sewing box: First and foremost you should have a box or a basket with compartments for keeping the
things you need for sewing. Arrange the contents in such a way that there is a place for everything.

CUTTING TOOLS

Scissors: These are round handles and the blades are usually less than 6 inches. They are designed
mainly for snipping threads and trimming seams. However, scissors with 5inch blades can be used for
beginners for cutting fabrics as well. For embroidery and for cutting button holes sharp pointed scissors
with blades ½ inch to one inch long are very useful. The best type of scissors has blades of uneven width.
They should be held so that the wider blade is above the narrower blade. Dress maker’s shears: Ref (2)
For cutting fabrics shears are more satisfactory than scissors. Shears differs from scissors in that they
have one small ring handle for the thumb and a large ring handle for the second, third and fourth
fingers. They also have longer blades (6 to 12 inches). It is better to select bent handled shears made of
high quality steel and having blades joined with a bolt or screw rather than a rivet. Take good care of
your shears and use them only for cutting fabric. Do not drop them or leave them to rust.

Pinking Shears: These are useful for finishing the edges of seams and other raw edges of fabric. They
produce notched (zigzag) cutting lines which prevents raveling of firmly woven fabrics. Pinking gives a
neat appearance to the inside of garments.

Buttonhole scissors: These can be adjusted so as to cut buttonholes in inany size you require. They are
useful if you are an expert in tailoring and need to make many buttonholes.

Electric scissors: In some foreign countries electric scissors which are very light and easy to operate are
available.

HAND SEWING AND EMBROIDERY TOOLS

Embroidery frame: This is used to keep the embroidery stretched while the work is being done.
Embroidery scissors: Sharp pointed embroidery scissors are essential, especially for cut work
embroidery.
Embroidery thread: This is available in a variety of colors in six-strand skeins. one can use two or three
strands at a time dividing the skeins as each length is cut for sewing.

Needles: The best quality sewing needles are made up of hand ground steel. Points are sharp and eyes
are smooth and well-polished. For hand sewing select medium length needles with a short oval eye.
Crewel needles designed for embroidery work have a long oval eye and are therefore easily threaded.
Both types of needles comes in variety of sizes, the smaller number indicating the larger needles. Some
packages contain needles of one size only. Other contains assorted sizes. The most suitable sizes for
general hand sewing are seven and eight. The paper used in needle packages is threated to prevent
needle from rusting. It is wise therefore to store your needles in the package. Needle case: One can get
cases in which needles of various sizes can be arranged.

Needle threader: This is a device made of thin wire which aids in threading machine needles and hand
needles.

Thimble: This is worn on the middle finger of the left hand to protect the finger and to aid in doing hand
sewing quickly.

Stiletto: This is a sharp pointed instrument for punching holes in material. It is used for forming eyelets
and for embroidery work.

Bodkin: This is a flat needle with a blunt end and a large eye, used for threading elastic and tape.

MEASURING TOOLS

Measuring Tape: selects a firm good quality tape which will not stretch after use. It is usually about ½
inch to ¼ inch wide and 60 inch long, and has 1/8 inch divisions. Since the metric system is being used
throughout India now, most of the measuring tapes have centimeter marking along one edge. At one
end of the tape is attached a brass strip about 3 inches long and at the other end, a small brass covering.
Yard stick or meter scale:

(now a days meter scales are more popular than yard sticks. These may be wooden, plastic or metal.
They are useful for checking grains lines when fixing pattern pieces on material and for drawing long
seam lines on fabric or paper.

L-scale: This has a perfect right angle corner and is used to draw lines at right angles at a time of
drafting. It has two arms or sides; one side is usually 24” long. It is helpful during the process of
“straightening fabric” to check whether the corners of fabric have got the right angled structure.

Small ruler:) A small transparent ruler of 6” length divided into 1/8 inch or 1/16 inch divisions on one
side and centimeters on the other side is useful for measuring small distances for tucks, hems, facing
etc.

Hem gauge:) A six inch gauge can be made of cardboard or bought from a shop. It is used as a measuring
guide for marking width of hems pleats, seam allowances etc accurately. Notches are provided at
regular intervals along the gauge. One edge of the notch is at right angles to the straight edge of the
gauge while the other edge is slanted. While measuring or marking, use the straight (not slanted) edge
of the notch as a guide.
Hem marker: Though this is useful for professional hem marking it is not a common sewing tool. This is
used to mark out a completely level hem line in chalk. It can be adjusted to any hem length.

MARKING TOOLS

Dress maker’s carbon: this is a tracing paper with one side waxed and is available in different colours. It
is used to transfer pattern markings such as seam lines, darts, pleats etc. from paper patterns to the
fabric being cut.

Tracing wheel: This is a sharp toothed wheel used with dress maker’s carbon to transfer pattern
markings to cloth. Select a wheel with firm sharp points. test it to make sure that it does not bend easily
and that the point are not blunt.

Tailor’s chalk: This is used for marking seam lines and other pattern details on fabrics as an aid in
stitching. This is available in assorted colors and in rectangular or triangular shapes.

GENERAL TOOLS

Pins: Use of pins for basting and fixing of pattern pieces on the fabric makes your work easier, quicker
and more accurate. Select sharp thin medium length pins that will not leave pin marks on the fabric.

Pin cushion: It is convenient to have a pin cushion with an elastic strap that can be fastened to the wrist.
Select the pin cushion made of wool or felt and filled with wool or hair.

Seam ripper: this is useful for ripping out machine stitches. It has a handle and a bent point which can be
inserted into the stitches and pulled to break them.

Orange stick: this is a long tool, whose point can be inserted into the corners of collars, seams etc. so as
to give a neat pointed appearance.

Sewing thread: Select a good quality thread of reliable brand matching to fabric in colour and size. While
matching the color, buy thread that looks slightly darker than the fabric. Various type of thread like
cotton, silk teryleno and nylon threads are available in the market.

Cutting board or table: A table of convenient height and size is a definite aid in cutting and constructing
garments. 5’x 3’ is a desirable size. Height can be about 2’6”

Mirror: A full length mirror is useful for checking whether the garment is well fitted in size and design.

Dress form: This is a padded form of body and may be made of wood, cardboard, plaster, reinforced
plastic etc. This is useful for designing dresses by draping and also to check correct fitting.

PRESSING TOOLS

Ironing board: This should be of convenient height and should be well padded. One may use ordinary
table covered with sheet and blanket for this purpose.

Iron: Keep an automatic iron handy for pressing fabric before cutting, during construction and after the
garment is completed.

Sleeve board: this is useful for ironing small parts like sleeves of a garment. It has a tapered end on one
side and a round end on the other side. This also should be padded.
Press cloth: Fabrics used as press cloth should be colour fast and should be washed or boiled to remove
all sizing.

Application:

Task 1: Shape me

Find the images of the different sewing tools describe above, create a comedy
storyboard using that images with your own picture acting as if you’re the one using
each tool on fabric, pattern paper or to anything as long as you can create comical story
( use can use any images as your props for this task but be sure you are the main actor/
actress on this task: ( minimum of 3 pages A4 sizes paper and all images must be
printed)
Point system: see rubrics

Task #
I care!

In an A4 bond paper create your own sewing tools maintenance schedule ( Do it in

CLOSURE

W.H.E.W. We Have Ended Well

Well done! You have just finished Lesson 4. Aim higher.