FOOTWEAR MEASUREMENT, SIZING SYSTEMS AND

Chapter 5
FITTINGS

Reasons why it is necessary to Measure-

1) A bespoke shoemaker requires information about his customer’s feet so that he can
either have lasts made or can fit up lasts chosen from his stock.

2) A manufacturer producing footwear in bulk requires sufficient information about the

feet of the segment of the market that he seeks to satisfy. He can make a number of
styles which will satisfy the needs of the largest percentage possible of the market
segment.

3) The retailer needs to measure his customer’s feet in order that he can select from his
shelves.

Considerations of Retailers while buying his stock-

 He selects from the manufacturers a range of styles which, he believes will meet the
appearance, performance and price needs of the customers he serves.

 He also chooses those styles in a range of sizes and fitting that will enable him to
meet their fit requirements.

 To help in selecting quickly the correct size and / or fitting for a particular customer.

 A good manual foot gauge.

 Electronic foot gauges measure length and width automatically, displaying size and
fitting on a panel.

Rules for fitting Footwear:

1) Foot gauge are only a guide. They measure only two dimensions and indicate which
size and fitting is likely to fit correctly.

2) Both feet must be measured

3) The larger should be fitted

4) When using manual foot gauge, body weight must be on the feet.

5) When using electronic foot gauge body weight must be on the foot being measured.

6) The foot must be properly positioned on the foot gauge.

7) The stool must be in line with the leg.

8) The heel must be right back to the pillar.

9) The angle between leg and foot must be 90 degrees.

10) The foot must be correctly aligned.

Shoe Sizing –

Shoe sizes are based mainly on the length of the shoe. In modern times, the length meant is
the length inside the shoe – the length of the last, the form on which the shoe is made—not
the length of the sole. A shoe size is an alphanumerical indication of the fitting size of a shoe
for a person. Several different shoe-size systems are still used today worldwide. In some
regions, it is even customary to use different shoe-size systems for different types of shoes
(e.g., men's, women's, children's, sport or safety shoes.

Foot length versus shoe length-

The length of a foot is commonly defined as the horizontal

distance between two parallel lines that are perpendicular to
the foot and in contact with the most prominent toe and the
most prominent part of the heel. Foot length is measured
with the subject standing barefoot and the weight of the
body equally distributed on both feet. The size of the left and
right foot is often slightly different - in this case both feet are
measured and the shoe size based on the larger foot. Each
shoe is suitable for a small interval of foot lengths. The length
of the inner cavity of a shoe must typically be 15–20 mm
longer than the length of the foot, but this relation varies
between different types of shoes.

There are three characteristic lengths that a shoe-size system can refer to:

 The average length of foot for which a shoe is suitable. For customers, this measure
has the advantage of being directly related to their feet. It applies equally to any
type, form, or material of shoe. However, this measure is less popular with
manufacturers, as it requires them to test carefully for each new shoe model, for
which range of foot sizes it is recommendable. It puts on the manufacturer the
burden of ensuring that the shoe will fit a foot of a given length.

 The length of the inner cavity of the shoe. This measure has the advantage that it
can be measured easily on the finished product. However, it will vary with
manufacturing tolerances and provides the customer only very crude information
about the range of foot sizes for which the shoe is suitable.

 The length of the "last", the foot-shaped template over which the shoe is
manufactured. This measure is the easiest one for the manufacturer to use, as it
identifies only the tool used to produce the shoe. It makes no promise about
manufacturing tolerances or for what size of foot the shoe is actually suitable. It
leaves all responsibility and risk of choosing the correct size with the customer.

 All these measures differ substantially from each other for the same shoe.

Length unit:

The following length units are commonly used today to define shoe-size systems:

Customary Units
 • Barleycorn = 1/3 inch = 8.47 mm

• Paris point = 2/3 cm = 6.67 mm = 0.26 inch

• 1 inch = 2.54 cm = 25.4 mm

Metric Units

• Millimetre (mm) = 0.039 inch

• Centimetre (cm) = 10 mm = 0.39 inch

How to Measure Foot length:

All you need to get your proper foot measurement at home is:

• a piece of paper larger than your foot

• a pencil

• Cello tape

• a ruler or measuring tape.

1) Tracing Your Foot to Find Your Shoe Size-

Sit with your foot firmly on the floor, and your leg bent
slightly forward so that your shin is slightly in front of your
ankle. Trace the outline of your foot and remember to
measure your foot without shoes, but with socks similar to
the ones you'll be wearing with the shoes you are buying.
Hold the pencil or pen upright and perpendicular to the
paper. Do not hold it at an angle. Make sure the pencil is
resting snugly against your foot as you draw around it.

2) Mark the Length and Width of Your Foot-

Use your pencil to draw straight lines touching the outermost

points at the top, bottom, and both sides of the outline.

3) Measure the Length of Your Foot -

Use your ruler or measuring tape to measure the length from

the bottom line to the top line that you drew in step two.

Be sure to hold the measuring tape straight, and find the

closest mark that you can (for inches, use the closest 16th
mark) - don't round up or down dramatically.
4) Measuring the Width of Your Foot-Measure the width of
your foot by using your measuring tape or ruler to measure
from the line on one side of your tracing, to the line on the
other side.

5) Finding the Final Shoe Size

Repeat these steps for your other foot, and use the larger of the two. After you have
your numbers written down, you'll want to subtract 3/16 of an inch from the numbers.
This is to accommodate for the slight space between your actual foot and the line made
by the pencil. These final numbers are your actual foot measurements; you can convert
them to the appropriate size and width using the systems below.

Shoe Sizing systems –

A sizing system can be defined as a method of Measuring, Recording and Marking the
various lengths of Foot, Last and the Shoe.

There are various types of sizing system are being followed by the footwear world.

1. British or English Sizing System

2. American Sizing System

3. French or Continental Sizing System (Paris Point)

4. Mondopoint Sizing System

5. Euro point Sizing System

1) British or English Sizing System:

The British shoe sizing system was created by Edward II in 1374 (i.e. 14th Century) form
Norwich, UK and that sizing system is still used to manufacture footwear for the UK. It is the
oldest sizing system and it is based on F.P.S. System (Foot, Pound, Second system) and the
units are in inches. British Shoe size is based on the length of the last, measured in
barleycorn (approx 1/3 inch) starting from the smallest practical size, which is size zero. It is
not formally standardized. The size “zero” (0) starts at 4 inch length and continues up to 13
for children’s and then again it starts from 1 to 11 or onwards for adults. The difference
between two sizes is 1/3rd inch (8.46mm) or one Barleycorn and for half sizes is 1/6th inch
(4.23mm). Three full sizes or six half sizes covers one inch (i.e. 25.4mm). The smaller size
scale 0 to 13-1/2 measures from 4 inches to 8 3/6 inches and the larger scale size 1 to 12
measures from 8- 2/3 inches to 12- 1/3 inches. A child's size zero is equivalent to a hand (4
inch or 12 barleycorns or 10.16 cm), and the sizes go up to size 13. (8. Inch or 21.59 cm).
In short:

 The English size stick begins with zero at 4 inches

 It advances by one- third inch per size

 Half sizes are one sixth of an inch

 Children’s sizes run to 13-1/2

 Adult sizes recommended at 1

Examples:

 A child’s size 9 is 7 inches

 A boy’s size 2 is 9 inches

 A man’s or women’s size 5 is 10 inches

 a size 8 is 11 inches

British Sizing system

Table
2) French or Continental Europe Sizing System (Paris Point):

Paris Points or French Points = 2/3 cm or 6.66mm or 0.265

inch or ¼ inch. This scale is based on C.G.S System
(Centimeter-Gram-Second system) and it is widely used.
French sizes are calculated on a scale of 3 sizes to 2 cm.
There are no half sizes. The first size begins with the first
centimeter and progresses consecutively down the scale.

Approximately equivalent French and English sizes are:

English child’s 10 = French 28

English Girl’s 1 = French 33

English Woman’s 5 = French 38

English Man’s 8 = French 42

French Sizing system

Table
3) American Sizing System:

The American colonies adopted the English system, but

made the zero size 3 11⁄12 inches. Shoe sizes in North
America are similar to those in Britain sizing system
except it starts at 3 11⁄12 inches instead of 4 inches.
The sizing system in England is one size different than
the American system in width as well as length. The
English system starts at 0 and the American system
starts at 1. The American shoe sizing system is used to
produce shoes for the US and Puerto Rico, Parts of Asia
and Africa, the Caribbean Island and sometimes of
Canada.

Marking:

USA sizes on ladies shoes are often shown multiplied by

10

E.g.- 61/2= 6.5

Ladies sizes:

English 5

American 6-1/2 (6.5)

French 38

4) Mondopoint Sizing System or Metric Sizing System:-

This is based on C.G.S system (Centimeter-Gram-Second system). It is developed by

International Standards Organization (SATRA), 1980’s. The unit of size is millimeter. It is
based on the mean foot length and width of the foot for which the shoe is suitable,
measured in millimeters. Mondo point is a world system of footwear sizing. The foot
measurement being taken with weight on and wearing hose. A size increment would be of
5mm or 7.5mm. In multi-fitting ranges the width interval between fittings should be either
3mm or 4mm.

 Mondopoint size marking consists of two numbers such as 240 / 95.

  The 1st number denotes the size of the length of the foot measured in mm and 2nd
number denotes joint girth or width measurement of the foot expressed in
percentage of the length.

For Example

1) 240 / 95, indicates the size of foot having a length 240 mm and girth 228 mm (95 % of
240).

2) A shoe size of 280 / 110 indicates a mean foot length of 280 millimeters (11 inch) and
width of 110 millimeters (4.3 inch).

Mondopoint sizes are often only given as the length figure i.e. 260, 280 or 300, the width
figure is less commonly used but provides the system with sensible width fitting sizing.

 Some people use Mondopoint to describe the sizing of shoes in centimeters,

however this is not how it is specified in the ISO standard.

 Foe e.g. shoe may be labeled either 240 mm or 24 cm

 Mondopoint is specified by ISO9407-1991 - Shoe Sizes, Mondopoint System of Sizing

& Marking.

5) Euro point Sizing System:

This is based on Metric system. The unit of size is millimeter. It is calculated from the actual
length of the foot measurement when standing. It is deals only with length and not with
width and fitting. It is simple to use since it is nothing more than just the conversation of
English size system into

The metric measure and the unit size are taken to be as

i) 4mm for women’s size

ii) 6mm for men’s size

 However it has not yet become wide spread.

International Shoe size Chart Notes:

 American Women’s shoe size are the same as American Men’s shoe sizes plus 1 ½

 Canadian shoe sizes are equivalent (identical) to American shoe size for both Adult
and Children.

 Mexican shoe sizes plus 1 ½ are the same as American Men’s shoe sizes.

 British shoe sizes plus 1 are the same as American Men’s shoe sizes.

 Japanese shoes sizes are American Men’s shoes sizes plus 18. (Some companies say
add 19).

 A Chinese 7 is a UK 4
  Australia and New Zealand use the same shoe sizes as the United Kingdoms for boys,
men and girls. However, in some of the women’s charts Australia is 1 or 2 sizes
bigger than U.K.

 Korea measures shoe sizes in millimeters (mm).

How to Measure Girth

Step 1

Foot length: Measure the distance between the back of your heel
and your longest toe while you stand upright. If you have a shoe
box, step inside so that your heel touches one side of the box. Move
an object so that it touches your longest toe. Carefully step out and
measure the distance between the side of the shoe box and the
object.

Ball girth: Wrap the measuring tape around your foot, so that you
would basically stand on the tape with your inner ball (the one
behind your big toe). The tape should move straight across your
foot. It may wrap around your small toe.

Step 2
Ball width: Measure the distance between the inner and outer side of your ball. If you have
a shoe box, step inside so that the outer side of your foot slightly touches one side of the
box. Move an object so that it touches the inner side of your foot where your ball is.
Carefully step out and measure the distance between the side of the shoe box and the
object.

Heel width: Measure the distance between the inner and outer
side of your heel. If you have a shoe box, step inside so that the
outer side of your foot touches one side of the box. Move an object
so that it touches the inner side of your heel. Carefully step out and
measure the distance between the side of the shoe box and the
object.

Step 3-

Instep girth: Wrap the measuring tape around your foot, so that it
moves around the foot at the instep, ie the middle of your foot.

Heel girth: Wrap the measuring tape around your foot, so that it
moves around your heel up to the point where your foot becomes
your leg and back to the heel. It's most easily done when standing
on your toes with one foot

Girth Measurement and Grade-

1) Join Girth

 The Girth Grade is the amount by which the last circumference grows from one size
to another around the joint position.

2) The amount of the grade will vary and depend on variety of requirement, i.e. type of
features to be made on the last.

As a general rule there are two girth grades

i) Children’s range- Sizes 0 -10 ½ = 3/16” (4.76mm)

 = 3/16” Girth Grade

For this range the amount between fittings is 3/16” (4.76mm)

ii) Adult’s Range Size 11- onwards= ¼” (6.35mm)

= ¼” Girth Grade

For this range the amount between fittings is ¼” (6.35mm)

3) Widths, or fitting are sometimes indicated by letters and sometimes by numbers.

 In America they are most frequently denoted by letters and the same is true of many
shoes in Britain.

 On medium Grade shoes the equivalent are likely to be:

A= 1 Fitting

B= 2 Fitting

C= 3 Fitting

D= 4 Fitting

E=5 Fitting

EE= 6 Fitting

A B C D E
Fitting ¼” 1 2 3 4 5
____________________________________________
Inches 7-1/2 7 -3/4 8 8¼ 8-1/
About 60- 70% of population can be fitted by the three middle fitting C, D and E.

The difference in each width is 1/4 inch. For each change in width (B to C to D, etc.), there is
1/4 inch change in girth at the ball of the foot.

As a shoe increases in length, a 1/4 inch increase in girth occurs automatically with each
increase of a full size.
Some of the Retail brands following various systems

Infants-

It is very formative stages of growth that a good deal of damage can be done of children’s
feet. Harm can be done at this stage without causing actual pain to the child. Complete
freedom of movements should be allowed for the infants' feet at all times. The foot must
always dictate to the shoes and not the shoe to the foot. A laced shoe is the best. The high
cut front ensures that the foot is held firmly into the back of the shoe leaving plenty of room
in the forefoot for growing toes. At least 13mm toes of growing space should be allowed for
in front of the longest part of the foot.

Teenage-

More style is demanded in this range of shoes but it is essential that the correct fit should
be maintained. Shoes should be light and flexible, gay and colorful but still give the feet a
chance to finish developing. It should be reasonably light, high cut in the front and sides.
The toes must be allowed to lie properly spaced to give at least 16mm growth room in front
of the toes.

Adults-

Fashion dictates that women’s shoes are in general low cut vamp than teenager children’s
shoes. The ball of the foot must fit snugly into the ball position of the shoe. Seat the heel of
the foot firmly against the proper heel cup.
 Size Measuring Equipments

1) Measuring with a Size Stick-

The size stick has a flat base and is about 18” long (457mm).
At one end it is fixed upright. A second upright is movable and
slides along the base. The foot is placed with the heel up to
the fixed upright, and movable upright is moved by sliding it
along the base, up to the toes. As the toes are apt to arch, the
measurer should take care to ensure the toes are flat as he
slides the movable upright into position. Care must be taken
to bring this up to the longest toes without pressing too hard
against them. The size stick gives the distance through the
length of the foot at the position which corresponds to the
center of the protuberance of the heel to the end of the
longest toe. Foot Measuring Device is a single device that
quickly sizes women’s, men’s and children’s feet. This Stick
Foot Measuring Device measures foot width and foot length.

Squatchi Shoe Sizer - Foot Measuring Device for Kids

Footer Foot Measure Device for Adults and Kids

2) Measuring with Tape-

 The tape can be used to measure length, but it is used, mainly to take Girth
measurements, or distance around the foot. Care must be taken to use a tape which will
not stretch in use. A common error is to read the wrong side of the tape, or to use one
side at the start of the measurement and transfer to the other side at the end.

3) Brannock Device-

The Brannock Device is a measuring instrument invented by Charles F. Brannock for

computing a person's shoe size. The Brannock Device foot-measurer is designed to
indicate the correct shoe size allowing enough room for comfort. By providing a starting
point for fitting, this device eliminates guesswork. All adult models incorporate the same
three functional aspects, heel-to-toe, arch, and width measurements. These three
measurements are critical for properly fitted footwear. With all three measurements
available to the salesperson at the same time an analysis of the foot can be made without
repositioning the device. Many are now found in shoe stores.

Men's size 1 is equivalent to a foot's length of 7 1/2 inch; women's sizes are one size up.
 The method also measures the length of the
distance of the heel and the widest point of
the foot. For that purpose, the device has
another, shorter scale at the side of the
foot. For children's sizes, additional wiggle
room is added to allow for growth.

The device also measures the width of the

foot and assigns it designations of AAA, AA,
A, B, C, D, E, EE or EEE. The widths are 3/16
in apart and differ by shoe length

4) 3D Measuring Device (EFMG 3D 3052)-

The test person steps onto the device (both feet). The first measurement taken is the
heel seat width of each foot. With the caliper, the operator scans each reading point,
following a pattern which is displayed o the screen. By mouse-click, the x-, y-, and z-
coordinates of each point are read in. Additional data such as name, age, weight can also
be fed in. All x and y coordinates are displayed as absolute values in mm. All read in 3D
data are saved in a folder and are ready for further processing in this format.

5)

Foot Measuring
Device-
 Measurement is as simple as pressing the start button. Callipers scan both feet and read
in the data. A microcomputer then converts the measurements and displays the
corresponding shoe size in the selected sizing system (Mondopoint, Stanag, Paris stitch,
English sizes, millimetres). This device was originally designed for measuring children’s
feet. In its modified version it is also in use for measuring adults’ feet.

6) Foot Measurement Device Magnet-

This device electronically measures length and width of

right and left foot and displays the values on the screen of
a PC Monitor. The device is connected to the PC via serial
cable which is included in the scope of delivery. Size
systems displayed are WMS, Mondopoint, Stanag, French
size, UK size and millimetres. In two illuminated display
windows custom specific logos can be displayed. A robust
aluminium case is available also.