EUROTHENTICA
Spain Mazaricos
COS-TOUR - 699493 DIVERTIMENTO
Diversifying tourism offers in peripheral destinations with heritage-based products
and services, stakeholder-skills alliances to internationalize
locally operating micro-enterprises
EUROTHENTICA
Spain Mazaricos
The inner journey on the Santiago Way
ISBN: 9788890859250
COS-TOUR - 699493 DIVERTIMENTO
Diversifying tourism offers in peripheral destinations with heritage-based products
and services, stakeholder-skills alliances to internationalize
locally operating micro-enterprises
GREECE
EUROTHENTICA
THE UNITED STATES OF EUROPE.
Dress Rehearsal: Rhodes, 1306-1522.
Following the COE tradition for the
European Cultural Routes,
DIVERTIMENTO innovates not ITALY
through the assemblage of geo-locations LOOKING FOR MYTHS
across a line, but with an integrative Frederick II Hohenstaufen: Governance as Culture
experience at each location. By defining
the places as the great imperative a SPAIN
scenario full of objects is created for SPAIN MAZARICOS
each place represented, enabling visitors The inner journey on the Santiago Way
to select desired objects in the locations
of interest with a total of 70 different
heritage objects unified as a pluralistic
SLOVENIA
experiences in the Project Area. THE LAST CONSPIRACY
The Plot of Fate in Castle Race, 1668
Capturing realism and providing for
emotional impact creating bridges
between areas interpreted and visitors ROMANIA
the Transnational Cultural Route THE PEOPLE’S VERDICT
E U ROT H E N T I C A b e c o m e s a n Alba Julia, 1st of December 1918.
interactive learning space, revealing
common values and cultural diversity in BULGARIA
the Project Area, raising the awareness
of policy makers and the general public
THE GOLDEN ANCHOR.
Varna, 1869
for the values and fragility of European
natural ecosystems and cultural
diversity. TURKEY
CONNECTING CULTURES
A truly Eurasian Story.
2
2
INTRODUCTION
Welcome to Mazaricos!
Placed on the northwest of Galicia in Spain
Mazaricos extends over a territory of 192
km2 allocated to 12 parishes. The Santiago
way enters in Mazaricos at the location of
Maroñas and then passes through the
parishes of Vaos, Mazaricos, Corzón and
Ponteolveira.
Welcome to Mazaricos!
Placed on the northwest of Galicia in Spain Mazaricos
extends over a territory of 192 km2 allocated to 12 parishes.
The Santiago way enters in Mazaricos at the location of
Maroñas and then passes through the parishes of Vaos,
Mazaricos, Corzón and Ponteolveira. Mazaricos is very
diverse with markedly contrasting and stunning landscapes:
mountains and valleys, wild spaces, farmland, thick forests,
open grasslands, solid and isolated villages, winding
watercourses and roads that bring us closer to all of the
horizons. The Mounts Aro, Pedroso, Ruña and Pindo make a
combination between mountains and valleys where the rivers
Xallas, Beba, Arcos, Maroñas and Santabaia run. A Picota is
the capital of the region. Paths, rivers, bridges, heritage,
landscapes and warm people are the elements the visitors will
find in Mazaricos.
4
3
SPAIN MAZARICOS
This film is part of “Il Pane Le Ali e la Spada directed by Aldo Di Russo. Courtesy of Unicity
6
SECTION 1
As Maroñas
Monte Aro
A Picota Town
Santa Mariña church
Corzón viewpoint AS MAROÑAS
Mollon Mill
Corzón parish
Ponte Olveira I am a modern pilgrim accomplishing an inner journey on the
Santiago way. I am walking towards the Finisterrae, the end of
Viewpoint over the lake
my pilgrimage. I entered Mazaricos through a peaceful
Naturmaz landscape living an intense personal experience. I am close to
the end of my journey now, as beyond Finisterrae, is the sea of
the dead…
As Maroñas is a parish located in the east of
Mazaricos. As Maroñas is the entry point of the
Santiago Way in Mazaricos, north-west of Galicia.
The old home recorded with the scallops of
Santiago dates back to the year 1562. It is surely
one of the oldest constructions along the Pilgrim
Route.
7
Passing through the different parishes Maroñas, Vaos,
Mazaricos and Corzón I have encountered many different
emotions. The markedly contrasting and stunning landscapes
of Mazaricos connected my soul with mountains, valleys,
wild spaces, farmland, thick forests, open grasslands, solid
and isolated villages, winding watercourses and roads that
b r o u g h t m e c l o s e r t o a l l o f t h e h o r i z o n s .
I talked to the locals always willing to help. I met other
pilgrims; we talked about the emotions, feelings, missing, and
the finding of ourselves. Our journey is rich in self-discovery
and colorful in emotions.
The night has arrived and I am reflecting on what I have
been told about the place. All that is short compared to what
I have lived and experienced here so far. As the light is falling
down I am dreaming of tomorrow.
8
SECTION 2
As Maroñas
Monte Aro
A Picota Town
Santa Mariña church
Corzón viewpoint MONTE ARO
Mollon Mill
Corzón parish
Ponte Olveira It's 07:00 in the morning. My daylight breakfast experience
starts: “Organic food?” I asked. The hotel owner, a returned
Viewpoint over the lake
emigrant from Germany smiled, “Organic?” he fired back
Naturmaz imitating the Nespresso ad. You are in the rural area of
Mazaricos! Our fruit trees, our cows, our eggs, our vegetables,
what else?
Our ancestors lived in small primitive villages
between the 9th century BC and the 3rd century
AD. These constructions were principally located in
high places and were made up of a varying number
of defensive walls that protected their homes, which
normally had a circular structure, inside the walls.
The fortified settlement of Monte Aro is located
inside the highest mountain of Mazaricos: from
there, we can see A Picota, the capital of the region;
Mount Ruña, the second largest mountain in the
municipality; Encoro da Fervenza and the
adventure sport complex Naturmaz.
9
Another sunny day with high expectations to discover the I feel powerful, as nothing can be hidden from my eyes, and
fortified settlements of Monte Aro is on my list of to do. I only now I start to understand the why of this journey. But
have been told that their ancestors lived in small primitive there is more to feel and enjoy. The river known as Rego de
villages in between the 9th century BC and the 3rd century Lago runs on the settlement´s east side. The water is cold,
AD. Throughout this long period, these constructions clean and flowing. I ask myself if this is a river of life…
continued to evolve as defensive structures. They were
principally located in high places, made up of a varying
number of defensive walls that protected their homes with a
circular structure, inside the walls.
I start my journey towards the
fortified settlement of Monte Aro
located inside the highest
mountain in this municipality. I
think twice to climb it but it is
my journey and I have to
experience the pain and
gain to see what others
saw centuries ago.
After a 45 minutes’ walk, I arrive,
breathless, at the most rewarding
scenery in the territory of Mazaricos:
from here, I can see A Picota, the
capital of the region, where I am
staying; Mount Ruña, the second
largest mountain in the
municipality; Encoro, the water
p r e s s ; d a Fe r v e n z a a n d t h e
adventure sport complex Naturmaz.
10
SECTION 3
As Maroñas
Monte Aro
A Picota Town
Santa Mariña church
Corzón viewpoint A PICOTA
Mollon Mill
Corzón parish
Ponte Olveira A PICOTA
Viewpoint over the lake I want to know more about this town that was created in the last
Naturmaz century. I need to ask the locals. People are passing by; the taxi
booth is giving services to pilgrims, who are too tired to carry on
their backpack. “Shall I take yours to the next point on the
way?” the young man kindly asked me. “Not yet”, I replied.
“Today is the day of the bi-weekly fair; I can't miss seeing the
A Picota was created at the end of the twenties in
the last century, next to an important connection
route, such as the road that joins Outes with
Dumbría. Its centrally-located geographic position
and the carrying out of a bi-weekly fair, which is
still held today, were all key elements for developing
and subsequently setting it up as the capital of the
Municipality of Mazaricos. A Picota has been used
as capital since 1960, although 1992 is the year that
it was officially announced as the capital. Previously,
the capital of the Municipality was located in Atan,
one kilometre away from A Picota.
11
locals in action.” Now I start to picture why the fair is a key
element to bringing people together. But not always was A
Picota the capital. The locals mentioned Atan, one km away
from where I am, but it is not in my journey.
Suddenly I realize that I am at the center of the town life. I
close my eyes; I listen to the sounds, the horses, the cows, the
dogs, and the people offering their products. I hear the bells,
a church announcing… Or is it giving the time? I must
follow the bells! Now I see it: San Juan of Mazaricos, an
early 16th century church in Baroque style with tower and
altar.
“Have you seen the public place for washing clothes?” asked
a girl in perfect English. “No. But please take me there!” She
adds “My grandmother used to wash the family clothes
there”.
In the horizon wind turbines convey a sense of modernity…
12
SECTION 4
As Maroñas
Monte Aro
A Picota Town
Santa Mariña church SANTA MARIÑA
CHURCH
Corzón viewpoint
Mollon Mill
Corzón parish
Ponte Olveira After my experience with San Juan of Mazaricos, I am inspired
to explore the iconography of life and death around the walls of
Viewpoint over the lake
Santa Mariña. I want to know whom they glorify, what are the
Naturmaz
Built in 13th century, Santa Mariña, has a single
nave covered by a barrel vault that was built later,
possibly in the 18th century. A circular hollow is
over the apse, although it lost its original
Romanesque configuration. The modillions under
the cornice, decorated with animal representations
and geometric motifs, protrude from the original
construction. Special mention must be made to the
Baroque altarpiece, which combines archaic
elements, such as spiralled columns and the pillars,
with very innovative small stone decorations.
13
connections with history, how it can enlighten me as I am
hungry for new knowledge.
I returned to the hotel as quickly as I could and asked the
young man at the reception to provide me with a map with
the key churches on my path. He confirmed that I should go
first to Santa Mariña. He offers me to sit down and have a
tea, (he already knows that I don’t drink coffee) while he is
telling me the story. I am fascinated with pure ethnography,
the time stops as I am enjoying the details. My mind and soul
are open for new stories, I take notes. “This is what you need
to know” he said with a sort of a teacher approach. “The
patron saint of the parish church is Santa Mariña, a Galician
martyr, killed during the first years of Christianity. The cattle
breeders pray to the Saint that the cows get pregnant and
give birth well, a tradition connected to the fact that
Mazaricos has one of the most important cattle
livestock in Galicia. That is why on the 18th of July,
the day of the Saint’s festivity, in all Mazaricos you
will hear the bursting of bombs and fireworks in
her honor.
14
SECTION 5
As Maroñas
Monte Aro
A Picota Town
CORZON VIEWPOINT
Santa Mariña church
Corzón
viwpoint
Mollon Mill
Corzón parish
Ponte Olveira I write words and words are expressing meanings, am I doing
myself enough inner listening to understand my pilgrimage. I go
Viewpoint over the lake
back to the way, or shall I say my path, my journey. I go back to
Naturmaz watch the landscape from a different perspective. I need new
answers to the feelings, to the emotions, to my deep encounter.
From this spot, it is possible to gaze upon a set of
panoramic views that are quite indicative of the
region’s scenic beauty. From right to left we can see
the places Vilar de Corzón, A Picota (capital of the
municipality), Lugarnovo, Sanfoga, Ponteolveira
and Busto. To the south, at the outer edge of the
horizon, we have Mount Aro, another of the points
of interest on the path. The foot of the mountain is
home to the valley watered by the River Mazaricos,
which is where the parish of the same name is
located together with that of Corzón.
15
I say goodbye to my hotel owner, he hugs me, one day a new
encounter, who knows. Memories, loneliness, calmness,
questioning, flowing, and endless views like as if I could
watch my thoughts flying over the places like Vilar de
Corzón, Lugarnovo, Sanfoga, Ponteolveira and Busto.
To the west in the foreground, I can see the junction of the
Rivers Mazaricos and Xallas, which is surrounded by masses
of willows, alders, meadows and croplands. In the distance,
encircled by the Ruña Mountains, there is the valley formed
by the River Beba. On the east, the Fervenza dam, a huge
mass of water that is similar to an inland river. The bank of
the river is home to the sport complex NATURMAZ, which
takes advantage of the conditions of the area offering a
complete schedule of sport and leisure activities all year
round.
I am heading towards the rivers where life flows with an
extraordinary strength. I find the junction of
the Rivers Mazaricos and Xallas, which is
surrounded by masses of willows, alders,
meadows and croplands. In the distance I see,
encircled by the Ruña Mountains, the valley
formed by the River Beba. At the Fervenza
dam, a huge mass of water is building an
inland river. I close my eyes and practice
mindfulness, the river gives me the music, I
feel the intensity of life.
16
SECTION 6
As Maroñas
Monte Aro
A Picota Town
Santa Mariña church
Corzón viewpoint MOLLON MILL
Mollon Mill
Corzón parish
Ponte Olveira Looking at the wind turbines polluting the landscape and
creating noise, I can’t help to feel nostalgic for the picturesque
Viewpoint over the lake
watermill and his eternal companion, the rolling water. The
Naturmaz excitement of a new challenge to find them, which way to go,
shall I ask the locals or shall I become an explorer?
I take my map as I have a hunch. I am not googling, I am
reading the map. I am listening to the river, following the water
The Mollón Mill is a communal mill. The
alternation between different owners when milling
was established by a system of “pieces” that
equalled 12 hours of use each. Distribution
normally took place on a weekly basis. Each mill
had 14 weekly pieces and the turns were given so
that each user had a similar proportion of day
hours and of night hours.
17
path. Suddenly the
mill appears before my
eyes. The mill is fed by
the flow of the River
Mazaricos through a
stone canal. The water
was returned to the
river once its power
had been used.
I read the panel it says:
“The mills were very simple constructions that consisted of
one square or rectangular floor. They have two storeys: the
bottom floor, known as “inferno”, is where the “reducio” and
the channel in which the water enters are located. The upper
floor was an area used for milling. Here you will find the two
milling stones: the upper one, “a moa”, turns over the lower
one, “o pé”. Both are connected in the middle by a stick to
the “reducio”; when the "reducio” moves as a result of the
power of the water, the upper stone moves and thus mills the
grains. The roof of the
Muiño de Mollón mill
is made out of stone,
although it is also
common to find roofs
covered with tiles.”
I wish I could read my
life’s panel.....
18
SECTION 7
As Maroñas
Monte Aro
A Picota Town
Santa Mariña church
Corzón viewpoint CORZÓN PARISH
Mollon Mill
Corzón parish
Ponte Olveira Following the river, I found myself in a bridge, shall I cross it?
Looking ahead there is a parish, the sign reads: “San Cristobal
Viewpoint over the lake
de Corzón”.
Naturmaz
The parish of San Cristobal de Corzón is located at
the foot of the highest mountain of the parish and
opens towards the expansive views of the valley
formed by the River Val and by the River
Mazaricos before flowing into the River Xallas.
19
The church, is a Romanesque construction with some gorgeous with its three altarpieces. Two altarpieces are
additions and reforms in later periods. It has a main chapel Baroque in style, from the 18th century. The main altarpiece
that is covered with a barrel vault and stonework. There is a is neoclassical, from beginning of the 19th century. All three
large round triumphal arch that rests upon semi-columns have a large number of high-quality sculptures. One word
and is open toward the temple. The exterior is typical of comes to my mind: imagination. Were the artists interpreting
traditional rural Romanesque constructions: there is no their own reality? Is any of the faces shown in the altars the
decoration on the facade, it is rather short, there are high- own faces? Is the lady holding the keys of the church, just the
quality stonework pieces and one who cares about
the layout of masses greatly pilgrims, or is it the Patron
contrasts with the empty of the church?
spaces. I am grateful to her, I
In the churchyard, the belfry continue my journey.
has a simple structure made
up of two openings that are
composed of two round
a rch e s c row n e d w i t h a
significant overhang. It
appear s outside of the
church, which is rather
unusual for that time. The
compound is completed with
a simple Calvary and the
priest´s home, which has a considerable size and was
carefully built.
The church is closed, but an old lady who lives close by keeps
the keys and offers to open it. The covering of the nave is
wood and has a high choir at the base. May be the old lady
has a fascinating story? No, she doesn’t, but the church is
20
SECTION 8
As Maroñas
Monte Aro
A Picota Town
Santa Mariña church
Corzón viewpoint PONTE OLIVEIRA
Mollon Mill
Corzón parish
Ponte Olveira I went from bridge to bridge, like as if I were playing a game.
War, violence, death, victory, defeat, power and surrender go
Viewpoint over the lake
hand in hand, testimonies of the dark side of the history. I
Naturmaz wonder what the troops of Napoleon were looking for in here. A
bit of history I read in a panel. The story is, again and again,
the same repetition, just names are changing.
The path leaves behind Mazaricos in Ponteolveira
with a Romanesque style bridge that was not built
before the 18th century. The bridge crosses the
River Xallas and delimits the municipalities of
Mazaricos and Dumbría.
21
the constructions that the sellers rented to sell their products
On the 11th of April still exist.
1809, the bridge was Just before leaving Mazaricos I finally learnt how A Picota
the site of the Battle earned its name. Shouldn't this story be mentioned in the
of Ponteolveira to town?
prevent Napoleon´s
army from crossing.
I n s ti g ated by th e
priests of the
surrounding parishes,
neighbours clashed
with an army of 900 French soldiers. Unable to get around
the river, the French were forced to pass over the bridge.
Larger in numbers and better armed the French troops have
knocked out the local resistance. During the night of the
11th to the 12th, the troops crossed the bridge heading
towards the towns of Corcubion and Cee. They left a small
party in A Picota in order to control the area. In retaliation,
they beheaded the leaders of the local resistance, primarily
the priests of the district.
That event gave rise to the name A Picota (the pillory),
although other theories assert that the name comes from the
existence of Mount Picota.
Until the middle of the last century, a trade fair was held in
the vicinity of the bridge on the third Saturday of each
month. The fair had great economic and social importance
in the period. It disappeared in the early fifties, but some of
22
SECTION 9
As Maroñas
Monte Aro
A Picota Town
Santa Mariña church VIEWPOINT OVER
THE LAKE
Corzón viewpoint
Mollon Mill
Corzón parish
Ponte Olveira Now is the time to watch one more time the land I left behind.
Some of the viewpoints gave me new perspectives; some of the
Viewpoint over the lake
thick forests are a metaphor of the complex emotions I feel. The
Naturmaz isolated villages reflect my loneliness, the water courses bring me
hope for my life, give me strength, speed, a powerful sense of
creation, self-confidence for changes the future might bring.
Mazaricos has a territory that is very diverse with
markedly contrasting and stunning landscapes. The
viewpoints on one of the sides of Mount Aro over
the lake, give excellent opportunities to view the
varieties in the land: mountains and valleys, wild
spaces, farmland, thick forests, open grasslands,
solid and isolated villages, winding watercourses and
roads, roads that bring us closer to all of the
horizons
23
24
S E C T I O N 10
As Maroñas
Monte Aro
A Picota Town
Santa Mariña church
Corzón viewpoint NATURMAZ
Mollon Mill
Corzón parish
Ponte Olveira Naturmaz welcomes me with a very poetic introduction:
Viewpoint over the lake The Fire, the sun that never burns here
Naturmaz The Air, which breaks the silence of the mountains,
The Water that gives a thousand forms to two seas
and a thousand rivers of life.
The Earth... the maternal nebula of Galicia
From the slopes of Mount Aro, which are open to
the four winds, we can see the Fervenza dam to the
northeast which interrupts the slow flow of the
River Xallas, thus creating a large lake perfect for
sports and leisure. On its shores lies the service
company Naturmaz, which one of the largest
leisure and adventure centres in Galicia.
25
The bank of the river
is the home to the
sports complex
Natur maz, which
takes advantage of the
unparalleled
conditions of the area
all year round to offer
a complete schedule
of sport and leisure
activities and possibilities.
Naturmaz invites its visitors to feel the Galician soul and
experience the adventures life through walking, riding, to
diving, flying…
I will certainly consider an invitation, for a last adventure
before I reach Finisterrae, the end of the earth! This time my
big adventure is not sports it is my inner journey.I leave
Naturmaz with the promise to return one day.
I walk toward the Finisterrae to reach the new
great adventure I start today.
26
27
EUROTHENTICA
CREDITS
Spain Mazaricos
The Inner Journey on the Santiago Way
by
Daniel Weiss - Jose Ramón Esperante
Description of location
by
Jesus Jurjo Lario
Created By
Aldo Di Russo
Edited By
Dorothea Papathanasiou
Producer
Unicity
Art Director
Beatrice Dell’Acqua
The authors thank the Mayor of Mazaricos for their valuable
contributions.
COS-TOUR - 699493 DIVERTIMENTO
Diversifying tourism offers in peripheral destinations with heritage-based
products and services, stakeholder-skills alliances to internationalize locally
operating micro-enterprises
