Wave Experiments

Level Three wave experiments using a stream tray

5-6
Key question What you need
How do we use a stream
tray to model waves? A small group is preferable so that all participants can do the
experiments; otherwise, the leader/teacher would use the
Key outcome experiments to demonstrate, with the students gathered around
Describe and monitor the tray.
wave action. Stream tray
Bucket of sand
Bucket of stones
Two different lengths of wood
Electric fan

Key questions accompany each of the three experiments.

Figure 1. Set-up
with stones

Key question
How do different surfaces
reflect waves.

Investigating the Effect of Beach Materials on the

Reflecting Waves

What you do
1. Fill the stream tray to a depth of 4 cm.
2. Place a board (on a slight angle) at the end of the tray
3. Create a wave that will be reflected off the board and count
how many times the wave moves back and forth across the
tank before it disappears.
4. Replace the reflecting board with stones. Place a pile of
stones at one end of the tray. These stones should be piled up
to a level just below the top of the tray. Ensure that there is a
by Dr Bill MacIntyre, Massey
seaward slope with the pile of stones and it is even across the
University, New Zealand.
width of the tank (Figure 1).
5. Create a wave that will be reflected off the stones and count
how many times the wave moves back and forth across the
tank before it disappears.
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Wave Experiments

6. Replace the stones with a pile of sand. Ensure that the sand is higher than the water
level and that there is a seaward slope on the sand.
7. Create a wave that will be reflected off the sand and count how many times the wave
moves back and forth across the tank before it disappears.
If there are differences, can you explain them? What would happen if there was island in
the centre of the stream tray?

Figure 2. Set-up with fan

Investigating The Relationship Between Wind And Wave Size

Key question
How does wind effect waves?
Construct a “beach’ at one end of the tank/stream tray with sand or pebbles. Slowly fill
the stream tray with water to a depth of 3 cm. Position a fan (or hair dryer) at one end of
the stream tray -opposite to the sand end. Aim the fan so that the air will hit the water at a
45• angle as shown in Figure 2. Never let the fan or hair dryer touch the water or electric
shock could occur.

Before you begin, read the steps below and make a table to record your observations and
predictions.
1. Using the ‘low’ speed on the fan, turn it on for 3 minutes. Record your observations of
the water in the form of a table (see next page). Allow the water to become calm.
2. Using the ‘high’ speed on the fan, turn it on for 3 minutes. Record your observations of
the water on the table. Allow the water to become calm.
3. Write a prediction that describes what you think will happen to the water when you
turn the fan on for 5 seconds at ‘high’ speed. Turn it on for 5 seconds and record your
observations next to the prediction.
4. Now that you have your prediction and observation recorded in the table, predict what
will happen to the water when the fan stays on for 10 seconds at ‘high’ speed.

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Wave Experiments

Using your observations what can you say about the link between wave size and wind.
What would happen to the water:
• if the stream tray was longer
• if the angle of the fan was different.

Lost At Sea: Investigating the Relationship between Wave Speed and

Water Depth

Key question
How does water depth effect wave speed?

1. Fill the stream tray to a depth of 1 cm. Use the longer piece of wood to act as a
reflector at one end of the tank.
2. Practice making a wave pulse by ‘dropping’ or ‘pushing’ the shorter piece of wood into
the water at one end. Don’t make a wave too big or you will have problems with the
depth. Time how fast the wave travels the distance of the tray.
3. Record the distance and time taken in the table below.
4. Repeat this for depths of 2 cm, 3 cm, 4 cm, and 5 cm.
• Do you see any patterns or trends?
• What will happen if there is sand on the bottom?

Extension
1 Additional activities using stream trays:
• Use Condy’s Crystals in the water and observe the currents.
• Join stream trays together to show catchment ecology.
• Sprinkle green KOOL-AID cordial crystals on land, water, and let it percolate it
through the water table.
• Made a sand cliff with igneous bits (including pumice) inside it and show wave cut.
2. Consider all three experiments: what implications do the results have for the real life
situation along our coastlines?
3. Repeat appropriate experiments in the sea (refer to other activity units).

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Wave Experiments

Example of recording table for investigating relationship

between wave speed and water depth

Depth (cm) Distance (m) Time (sec) Velocity (m/sec)

1 cm (i)
(i)
(ii)
average
2 cm (i)
(ii)
(iii)
average
3 cm (i)
(ii)
(iii)
average
4 cm (i)
(ii)
(iii)
average
5 cm (i)
(ii)
(iii)
average

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Wave Observations

Level What you need

7-8+ Pencil, paper or field sheets
Key question Clipboard
How can wave action be Stopwatch
measured?
Ruler/tape measure
Key outcome Float (apple rather than foam is suggested)
Describe and monitor
waves.
What you do
Assemble in small groups and do the experiments. One
student should record data accurately for use by the group
later.

Wave Period
Record the time in seconds for eleven wave “crests” to pass a
stationary point. Eleven “crests” must include ten complete
waves (crests and troughs). Crest one is zero time, crest
eleven is end of time period.

Adapted from field notes Wave Height

prepared by Rochedale High
This observation relies solely on your judgement. Record the
School, and St. Aidan’s
breaking wave height to the nearest one-fifth of a metre (i.e.
School in Brisbane.
20 cm). If the wave height is less than 20 cm, then record “0”.
If no waves exist , record “0” for both wave period and wave
height.

Wave Angle at Breaker

Record the code (1 to 5) which best describes the direction of
the approaching waves according to Figure 1 below. If no
waves exist record “0”.

Figure 1. Wave
direction code

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Wave Observations

Surf Zone Width

Estimate the distance, to the nearest whole metre, from the water line, at the time of
observation, to the line of the most seaward row of breakers.

To determine if the waves are constructive or destructive build a sand castle where the
waves are washing up the beach. If the wash is stronger than the backwash, the waves are
constructive. Write up your findings.
How will the speed of the backwash vary between a steep beach face and a flat
beach face?
To determine if beach drifting is occurring, place a plank or heavy branch at right angles
to the wash of the waves. Notice the effect of this mini-breakwall on deposition. What do
you notice? What would be the effect of these breakwalls on a coastline?
The slope of the ocean bed affects the shape of the waves (wave profile). Look at the
wave profile and indicate the probable sea floor at this beach.

Spilling Breakers Plunging Breakers Surging Breakers

Nearly horizontal sea floor

Figure 2.
Three types of breakers

Wave Type
Record the code (0-4) which best describes the type of breaking wave.
0 Calm: No waves exist.
1 Spilling: Spilling occurs when the wave crest becomes unstable at the top and the
crest flows down the front face of the wave producing an irregular foamy whit
surface. This wave is sometimes referred to as a ‘roller’.
2 Plunging: Plunging occurs when the wave crest curls over the front face of the
wave and falls into the base of the wave, producing a high splash and much foam.
This wave is sometimes referred to as a ‘dumper’.

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Wave Observations

3 Surging: Surging occurs when the wave crest remains unbroken while the base of
the front of the wave advances up the beach.
4 Plunging/Spilling: This is a combination of spilling and plunging waves.

Spilling Surging

Plunging Collapsing
Figure 3. Wave types

Offshore Bar
1 = yes, if there is a distinct gutter between the initial breakpoint and the beach
allowing the wave to re-form.
2 = no, if the wave continues in a broken state from the initial breakpoint to the beach.

Longshore Drift
Drop a piece of buoyant material (e.g. foam) at the water’s edge and time how long it
takes to move a measured distance. Note that the foam must be recovered, which may be
difficult. An apple may be used as an alternative. Summarise your conclusions below.

To show the ways different shaped loads are transported by water, place small flat and
uneven stones where the waves can move them. Comment on the ways or ease with
which they move.

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Wave Observations

Field sheet for beach measurements

Carry out the following measurements and/or observations.

Phenomena Site

1. Sand composition at mid tidal zone:

• clear particles – mica or quartz
• black rutile – mica or quartz
• blue-black – basalt
• red-brown – sandstone
• grey – pumice
• old coral, shells, sponge

2. Sand texture at LWM to base of dune:

• coarse, rough, smooth, angular, size

3. Distance:
• LWM to HWM
• HWM to Berm
• Berm to Dune Base

4. Dune Height

5. Berm Height

6. Beach Angle:
• LWM to HWM
• HWM to Berm Base
• Top of Berm to Dune Base

7. Evidence of efforts to
protect/stabilise sand dunes
8. Rough cross section
and vegetation transect

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