CODES FOR

HOMEOWNERS 4th Edition

Electrical • Plumbing • Construction • Mechanical

Current with 2018–2021 Codes

Bruce A. Barker

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 © 2015, 2019 Quarto Publishing Group USA Inc. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First published in 2015 by Cool Springs Press, an imprint ISBN: 978-0-7603-6251-8

of The Quarto Group, 100 Cummings Center Suite 265D,
Beverly, MA 01915 USA. This edition published in 2019. Digital edition published in 2019
T (978) 282-9590 F (978) 283-2742 www.QuartoKnows.com eISBN: 978-0-7603-6252-5

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any Acquisitions Editor: Mark Johanson
form without written permission of the copyright owners. All images Art Director: Brad Springer
in this book have been reproduced with the knowledge and prior Layout: Danielle Smith-Boldt
consent of the artists concerned, and no responsibility is accepted Author: Bruce Barker
by producer, publisher, or printer for any infringement of copyright Illustration: Bruce Barker
or otherwise, arising from the contents of this publication. Every Additional Illustration: Mark Abdellah, Christopher R. Mills
effort has been made to ensure that credits accurately comply with Photography: Rau + Barber
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NOTICE TO READERS
For safety, use caution, care, and good judgment when following the procedures described in this book. The publisher,
author, and BLACK+DECKER cannot assume responsibility for any damage to property or injury to persons as a result of
misuse of the information provided.
The techniques shown in this book are general techniques for various applications. In some instances, additional
techniques not shown in this book may be required. Always follow manufacturers’ instructions included with products,
since deviating from the directions may void warranties. The projects in this book vary widely as to skill levels required:
some may not be appropriate for all do-it-yourselfers, and some may require professional help.
Consult your local building department for information on building permits, codes, and other laws as they apply to
your project.

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 Contents
Codes for Homeowners 17

Introduction 7
Codes & Permits: The Basics 8

26
BUILDING DESIGN & SAFETY 19
Habitable Rooms 20
Fire Separations 22
Stairways 24
Emergency Escape Openings 30
Egress Doors 32
Exterior Doors 33
Door & Window Hazards 34 38

Ventilation & Exhaust 36

Smoke & Carbon Monoxide Alarms 42

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 Contents (Cont.)

STRUCTURAL COMPONENTS 45
54
Foundations 48
Crawlspaces 52
Decks 54
Floor Systems 62
Wall Systems 70
Wall Penetration Flashing 84
Roof Systems 86
88

EXTERIOR COMPONENTS 97
Shingle Roof-Covering Installation 98
Fireplaces & Chimneys 104

HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING 109

HVAC Appliances 110

98 HVAC Duct Installation 116

Combustion Air for Fuel-Burning Appliances 118
Vents for Fuel-Burning Appliances 121

PLUMBING SYSTEM 125

The Home Plumbing System 130
Water Supply Piping 131

128

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 Drain, Waste & Vent Piping (DWV) 137
157
Plumbing Vents 148
Plumbing Traps 156
Plumbing Appliances & Fixtures 157

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 169

Understanding Electrical Circuits 173
Electrical Grounding & Bonding 184
Electrical Branch Circuit Requirements 189
Electrical Receptacle Installation 198
Ground-Fault (GFCI) & Arc-Fault (AFCI) Protection 202
Junction Boxes, Device Boxes & Enclosures 204
Switch Installation 212
Light Fixture Installation 214
Satellite Dishes, Television & Radio Antennas 218
Broadband Cable Wiring 220 189

Appendix 222
Measurement Conversions 234
Resources 234
Photo Credits 234
Index 235

233

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 Maximum
gap 43⁄8"

Handrails at least 34"

but not more than
38" above stair treads

Nosing radius
≤ 9⁄16"

Riser height
≤ 7¾"
Tread depth
≥ 10"

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 Introduction
T he purpose of the 2018 International Residential Code (IRC), and of all building
codes for that matter, is expressed in IRC Section R101.3: “The purpose of this
code is to establish minimum requirements to safeguard the public safety, health, and
general welfare . . .” This statement provides important information about building
codes and code inspections. Building codes are minimum requirements. A house built
to minimum requirements is not necessarily a high-quality house built by craftsmen
according to best practices. Code inspections are about safety and health. They are
not about fit, finish, and other cosmetic issues. They are not even about functional
issues that are not specifically addressed in the code. Understanding the purpose of
building codes helps you set realistic expectations about the limits of building codes and
code inspections.

Building codes change; most do so on a three‑year many code provisions, because homeowners will
cycle. Many code changes are little more than not use them. The provisions we include have been
rewording or reorganization in an attempt to make simplified to make them easier to understand. This
code provisions easier to understand and easier means that Codes for Homeowners is not your
to find. Many code changes and additions are local building code. Your local building code, as
substantive, and homeowners should be aware interpreted by your building inspector, is the code
of these as they perform repairs and remodeling with which you must comply. You must do so even
projects. Substantive additions and changes are if you do not obtain a building permit for your work.
the reasons for this updated edition of Codes If you have any doubts or questions about how a
for Homeowners. building code provision applies in your area, you
Trying to condense a 900‑page code book that should ask your local building inspectors. In almost
is mostly text and tables in very small print into every case, if you approach them as a resource and
significantly fewer pages filled with pictures and not as an obstacle, you will find your local inspectors
illustrations is a challenge. We have not included to be friendly, knowledgeable, and eager to help.

INTRODUCTION 7

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 Codes & Permits: The Basics

I n just the United States you will find hundreds of code books
describing thousands upon thousands of building code provisions.
On top of this, there are even more books that look and feel like code
books but are really only attempting to describe best practices. Almost
all of these have their own inherent value. But almost none of them
apply to a typical homeowner living in a typical single-family home.
As a homeowner and DIYer, perhaps the hardest thing about building
codes is learning how to tell which one applies to you and, if there is
a disagreement, which takes precedence. As an introduction, here are
some brief biographies of the more common codes and enforcement
agencies you’re likely to encounter.

The International Residential Code

The IRC 2018 is one of an extensive collection of model building
The International Residential Code has
codes published by the International Code Council (ICC). A model
no jurisdiction of its own but is the basis
building code is a recommended building code developed by a national for many state and local residential
organization that specializes in writing building codes. When adopted building codes.
by a government agency, the IRC regulates the construction, renovation,
maintenance, and repair of buildings used as homes. The IRC, by itself,
has no formal legal status. A government agency must first adopt the IRC
before it has any legal status in a local area.

State & Local Building Codes

Almost all areas of the United States have adopted some version of a
building code. Some states, such as California, Florida, and New York,
have a state building code. Some large cities, such as Chicago and
New York City, have a city building code. Many of these state and local
building codes are based on model building codes from the ICC.
Smaller cities and counties often use ICC model building codes, such
as the IRC. Some rural areas may not have adopted a building code, but
this is becoming a rare situation. If you do any work that is regulated by
the local building code, you are responsible for knowing, or for hiring
someone who knows, the applicable building code where the building is Some states and cities have their own
located. Ignorance of the code is no excuse. building codes.

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 Local Code Amendments
Most building departments that use the IRC adopt
local changes to the IRC. Many of these changes are
minor and help to adapt the IRC to local conditions
and needs. Some of these changes can significantly
alter IRC provisions. The building department should
publish, in writing, any changes adopted by the local
government. You are responsible for knowing and Most jurisdictions have their own code amendments. Your
complying with all local changes. Ask the building city or municipality likely maintains a website with building
official if there are any local code changes. ordinances posted and updated regularly.

Other Building Codes

The IRC is not the only building code. Others efficiency. The IRC contains a simplified subset of
commonly used include: The International the IECC.
Building Code (IBC), The International Mechanical You should know which codes apply to your
Code (IMC), The International Plumbing Code construction project. Ask your local building official
(IPC), The Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC), The which codes apply in your area.
International Fuel Gas Code (IFG), The National
Electrical Code (NEC), and The International
Energy Conservation Code (IECC). Each of
these building codes regulates a different aspect
of building construction.
The IBC regulates the structural aspects of all
buildings, although it is not commonly applied to
residential buildings. The IBC usually applies to
commercial, industrial, and multi-family buildings,
such as apartments. The IRC references the IBC and
the IECC when a part of a residential building is not
addressed by the IRC.
Each major system in a building has its own
code. The IMC regulates heating, ventilation,
and air conditioning systems; the IPC regulates
plumbing systems; and the IFG regulates gas
piping and gas equipment. These codes usually
apply to commercial-type buildings. The UPC is a
separate code, published by another code-writing
organization, that also regulates plumbing systems.
It may replace the IRC plumbing chapters in areas
that adopt the UPC. The NEC regulates electrical
systems. The IRC contains an adapted version of the
NEC in the IRC electrical chapters. When the IRC
does not address an electrical situation in a home,
the NEC usually applies.
The IECC regulates energy-related aspects of Trade-oriented building codes with a more specific focus
all buildings. These aspects include: insulation, apply in some situations. Most of these are primarily for
air infiltration, and window and door energy nonresidential construction.

INTRODUCTION 9

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 Zoning Ordinances
Many areas, particularly the more densely populated is doing. It is possible that the building inspection
ones, have land use and zoning ordinances that control department might issue a permit that would create
what you can build on your property. You are responsible a zoning violation. Projects that might run afoul of
for knowing and complying with them. In larger zoning ordinances include new, free-standing buildings,
jurisdictions, the planning and zoning department may basement remodels that add a bedroom, bathroom,
be separate from the building inspection department, and kitchen, and any project that adds an additional full
and sometimes one does not know what the other kitchen on property zoned for single-family use.

Buildings Governed by the IRC

Apply the IRC to buildings containing one or two grade plane is complex and is measured at the lowest
individual residential dwelling units in one building. point 6 feet from each building foundation wall. Refer
Duplex is a common term for one building containing to the definitions in the IRC and consult the local
two individual dwelling units. building official if there is a question about whether a
Apply the IRC to townhouses. A townhouse basement is a story above grade plane.
contains at least three individual dwelling units in Apply the IRC to owner-occupied guest
one building. accommodations (such as a bed and breakfast) if the
Each dwelling unit in any building within the building contains not more than five guest rooms and
scope of the IRC must have a separate means if a fire suppression system is installed in the building.
of egress. This is often interpreted to mean that Do not apply the IRC to buildings used for
each dwelling unit must have a separate door to business, office, commercial, industrial, or other
the outside. residential purposes, such as a fraternity house.
Apply the IRC to residential buildings with not This is true even if the building was once used as a
more than three stories above grade plane. A story residence. You may apply the IRC to an office in the
above grade plane is: (a) one where the finished floor home if the office is incidental to the residential use
is entirely above grade plane, (b) is more than 6 feet of the building. Refer to the IBC and other applicable
above grade plane, or (c) is more than 12 feet above codes for code provisions governing buildings not
finished ground level at any point. The definition of governed by the IRC.

Apply the IRC to all single-family homes. Apply the IRC to multi-family buildings, such as duplexes
and townhomes.

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 Building Departments
A local building department enforces the building
code in its jurisdiction. The technical term often
used to describe this department is the Authority
Having Jurisdiction (AHJ). The term used to describe
the person responsible for enforcing the code is
the Building Official or Chief Building Official. The
public name for the local building department varies
by jurisdiction. Many building departments will
have the terms “building” or “safety” somewhere in
the name. In some larger jurisdictions, the building
department may be a division of a larger agency that
is also responsible for land planning, zoning, and
development. Some building department names
may not sound like they have anything at all to do
with building code enforcement. If you do any work
that requires a building permit, you are responsible
for finding and contacting the building department. Consider your local building department to be a friendly
Work done without a permit can have serious legal place with extremely valuable resources to help you get your
and financial consequences. projects done correctly.

Working with Government Building Inspectors

The building official is the king of his building unreasonable, eventually it will probably prevail. In
jurisdiction. Don’t mess with the king. He can make almost all cases, you should just smile and do what he
your life very difficult. If you must disagree with tells you.
him, do so respectfully and with facts that support Most building officials and inspectors are honest,
your position. The building official has the right to hardworking people who want to ensure that your
interpret any code provision. While he does not have project is safe and complies with local building codes.
the right to waive code provisions or to require more They can be a valuable resource. Take advantage of
than the code requires, interpretations can sometimes that resource. Ask questions and work with them.
have that effect. Even if his interpretation seems Most will, in turn, work with you.

Who Is Responsible for Code Compliance?

The general answer is that everybody building inspectors, or there may be other reasons,
associated with the project is responsible for few of which are good.
code compliance, but with one exception. The The one exception is the building inspectors.
primary responsibility usually falls on the permit Building inspectors are not responsible for code
holder, which is one reason why it is a warning compliance. They are responsible for inspecting
signal if a contractor asks the property owner to catch code violations, but they are usually not
to pull the permit. A contractor who does not responsible if they do not catch a violation. Thus,
want to pull a permit may not have an active passing an inspection and obtaining a certificate of
license, may have a bad reputation with the occupancy is not a guarantee of code compliance.

INTRODUCTION 11

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 WORKING WITH PRIVATE BUILDING INSPECTORS
Time is not the friend of government building inspectors. From an eight-hour day, they must subtract doing paperwork,
discussing inspections with stakeholders, traveling between inspections, and performing other duties. Divide the
remaining time by 20 to 30 inspections per day, or more, and they may have only a few minutes to perform each
inspection. It’s a credit to government inspectors that they find many major code violations. Most will admit, however, that
they cannot find all code violations. They will also admit that they are not even looking for issues that, although they are
not code violations, can have a significant negative impact on the cost to operate and maintain the home.

Private building inspectors fill this quality control gap for many people. People building homes and people performing
major remodeling projects hire a private inspector who helps the government inspector and the contractor provide quality
construction. A private inspector can perform a far more thorough inspection than a government inspector, because a
private inspector can invest more time on each inspection. In addition, a private inspector usually inspects areas such as
attics and roofs, where government inspectors rarely go.

When building a new home or during a major remodeling project, a private inspector is often most useful at two critical
points. The most critical point is just before insulation and drywall are installed. This inspection is sometimes called the
pre-drywall inspection and is the most important inspection a home will ever have. At this time, an inspector can see
many important components that will be covered by finish materials and, in most cases, will never be visible again. The
other critical point is at the end of construction. At this time, an inspector can see and test important systems in the home.

Private inspectors are increasingly common on construction sites. While some contractors welcome private inspectors,
many do not. Even if you decide not to engage a private inspector, it is wise to discuss the option with the contractor
before signing a contract, and it is wise to agree, in writing, to how the contractor will work with the private inspector
during construction.

Private building inspectors (such as

the author, seen here) may be hired
by a client to check the contractor’s
work at key points.

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 Manufacturer’s Instructions
The IRC requires installing all components, instructions. The testing organization places the
equipment, and appliances according to the certified components on a list maintained by the
manufacturer’s instructions. This requirement is testing organization. This process is called listing, and
so important that it is repeated many times in the the components are referred to in the IRC as listed.
IRC. Manufacturer’s instructions are an enforceable The IRC cannot anticipate every possible
extension of the IRC. This means that it is a code building component and every possible way the
violation to install something in a manner that does component could be installed. As such, the IRC relies
not conform to manufacturer’s instructions. on the manufacturer’s instructions to specify how
Manufacturer’s instructions are an important part components should be installed.
of ensuring that components are safe. Independent When a difference between the IRC and the
organizations test many components used to build manufacturer’s instructions occurs, the IRC assumes
homes. This includes almost all manufactured that the manufacturer is in a better position to know
components. The tests are conducted under defined its product and how it should be installed in a given
conditions that include using the manufacturer’s situation. This is why the IRC usually defers to the
instructions to install the component. The testing manufacturer’s instructions. Ask the local building
organization certifies that the component is safe official for an interpretation if there is a difference
when installed and used according to manufacturer’s between the manufacturer’s instructions and the IRC.

Manufacturer’s installation instructions

must be followed to the letter, and they
are an enforceable extension of the IRC.

Grandfathering Existing Work

In almost all situations, you are not required to In almost all situations, when updating, modifying,
abandon, remove, or alter existing work that is or repairing existing work, you are required to
lawfully in existence and safely functioning. Lawfully perform the update, modification, or repair according
in existence means the work was inspected and to the code in force when the work is performed. You
complied with the code when installed and/ are usually not required to make the existing work
or modified. comply with current code.

INTRODUCTION 13

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 Building Permits & Inspections
Contact your local building officials to determine and the building official could require removal of
which construction activities require a building the work.
permit and to determine the documents and Comply with the building code applicable to where
procedures required to obtain a permit. The building the building is located. The applicable building code is
official you speak with may not enforce some building usually the code in force when the permit is issued. If
permit requirements contained in the IRC, but may you do not obtain a building permit, comply with the
add building permit requirements not contained in building code in force when the work is performed.
the IRC. The building code applies whether or not you obtain a
You must wait until the required permit is building permit. This is important. Lack of a building
issued before beginning work. Beginning work permit does not relieve the building owner or the
before the permit is issued may result in fines, contractor of responsibility for code compliance.

WHEN IS A PERMIT REQUIRED?

You typically will need a building permit for: • Driveways and sidewalks

• Construction of new buildings • Painting, papering, floor covering installation,

cabinet and countertop installation, and similar
• Additions and structural modifications to
finish work
existing buildings
• Installation of portable plug-and-cord connected
• Structural repairs to existing buildings
decorative lights and similar plug-and-cord connected
• Replacement of or major repairs to building electrical equipment
components, such as roof coverings and exterior
• Replacement of fuses and circuit breakers
wall coverings
• Low-voltage lights and other electrical wires and
• Movement and demolition of existing buildings
equipment operating at less than 25 volts and not more
• Changes to building occupancy. A change to building than 50 watts
occupancy means changing how the building is used.
• Installation of portable gas heating, cooking, and
Example: using a single-family home as a place of clothes-drying equipment
business is a change in occupancy that may require
a building permit and may require a zoning change or • Installation of portable HVAC equipment (such as

zoning waiver. window air conditioners)

• Clearing of plumbing stoppages and repair of plumbing

• Additions to, major changes to, and/or replacement of
leaks and removal and reinstallation of toilets if the
electrical, plumbing, gas, and HVAC components
repairs do not involve replacement or rearrangement of
You may not need a building permit for: valves, pipes, or fixtures
• Building or installation of one-story detached • Decks that are not more than 30" aboveground, are not
accessory structures (such as storage sheds and more than 200 sq. ft. in area, are not attached to the
playhouses) with a floor area not more than 200 sq. ft. building, and do not serve the required egress door

• Fences not more than 7' tall You usually do not need a building permit for:

• Retaining walls not more than 4' tall measured from • Routine maintenance of existing buildings, fixtures, and
the bottom of the footing to the top of the wall and not equipment, if the building structure is not affected and
supporting a surcharge (a surcharge is a vertical load if the nature and use of the electrical, plumbing, gas, or
in addition to and/or above the retained ground) HVAC system is not changed

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 PERMIT EXPIRATION
Verify building permit expiration rules with your local
building official. A building permit may expire if more
than 180 days lapse without an inspection or without
some other evidence that work is progressing on
the project.

Required Inspections
Post the job site inspection card so the inspector can see it. Contact the building official to determine the
required inspections for a construction project.
Each jurisdiction has its own rules for inspections.
CERTIFICATES OF OCCUPANCY These rules include: which inspections it performs,
what work must be complete before requesting the
A certificate of occupancy is issued by your building inspection, how and when to schedule the inspection,
official to affirm that your structure is safe to inhabit. and how it handles inspections of work that
Do not move into or occupy a building until after the fails inspection.
building official issues a certificate of occupancy. Note that some jurisdictions conduct a separate
Do not change the use of a building without a new inspection for each trade, some jurisdictions conduct
certificate of occupancy. Example: do not use a building one inspection when all trade work is complete, and
as an office if the building was once a home without
some jurisdictions conduct trade inspections during
receiving a new certificate of occupancy. The new
the framing inspection. Check with the building
certificate of occupancy may require changes to the
building that reflect its new commercial use. You are official to determine if other inspections are required.
not required to obtain a certificate of occupancy for Further required inspections may include flood
accessory structures. plain and elevation, roof coverings, insulation and
energy efficiency, interior drywall, and exterior wall
coverings, such as stucco and masonry.

Final Inspections
Prior to final inspection, you should: Install all
plumbing, HVAC, and electrical fixtures, equipment,
and appliances and install all required safety
components, such as stair handrails and guards,
safety glazing, and smoke alarms. Note that
jurisdictions have different rules about whether
you must install finish components, such as floor
coverings, before the final inspection. Jurisdictions
also differ on whether tasks such as final grading and
landscaping must be installed.
Do not assume that passing an inspection or
receiving a certificate of occupancy is a waiver of any
code violations. The building owner and contractor
are responsible for any code violations regardless of
whether the building has passed inspections.

INTRODUCTION 15

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 Preparing for Inspections

Concrete footing inspections must be done before concrete is Isolated footings, such as those used to support deck
poured. Try to coordinate the inspection for the day before the columns, must be inspected before the concrete is poured.
planned pour, so you leave enough time to make corrections The footings will be inspected for size and depth. Some
if required. footings may require reinforcing bars.
1. Install, square, and level forms.
2. Dig footing and pier trenches.
3. Install any required reinforcing bars.

Typical Freestanding Pull wire

Wall Form
¾" plywood

Spacer
¾" plywood
2 × 2 frame
for stop board 2×4
frame

¾" plywood
stop board

Diagonal bracing
#3 rebar
Stake
Concrete footing

Stake

Concrete foundation wall inspections will focus on the wall thickness, base preparation, and reinforcement. All forms must be
approved prior to the pour.
1. Install, square, straighten, plumb, and secure wall forms.
2. Install any required reinforcing bars.

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 Plumbing rough-in inspection HVAC inspection
1. Install plumbing water supply and drain pipes in the 1. Install HVAC ducts, pipes, and thermostat wires.
building. The building sewer pipe inspection is usually a 2. Install (or have installed) appliances, such as furnaces
different inspection from the interior drainage and water and air handlers, that may be difficult to install after the
supply pipe inspection. Install fixtures, such as tubs and construction is complete.
showers, that may be difficult to install after the wall
construction is complete.

Electrical rough-in inspection Framing inspection

1. Have electrical service panel and subpanel 1. Install all interior and exterior walls, floor joists and
cabinets installed. subflooring, ceiling joists and rafters, and roof sheathing.
2. Install boxes for switches, receptacles, fixtures, and all Install all required wall bracing, firestops, and draftstops.
electrical cables. 2. Note that some jurisdictions may require installation of
other components, such as moisture barriers and roofing
felt, before calling for a framing inspection.

INTRODUCTION 17

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 Building Design
& Safety

O ne of the most important reasons for building

codes is to promote the health and safety of
building occupants. Health issues involve topics such
as minimum room size, minimum ceiling height, and
requirements for removing moisture and fumes that
could damage your home and make you sick. Safety
issues involve topics such as the size and location
of emergency escape openings, design and
construction of stairs (one of the most dangerous
areas in a home), and the location and installation
of smoke and carbon monoxide alarms.
This chapter will help you understand building
code requirements that you may encounter when
doing projects such as adding rooms and remodeling
basements and attics. While this chapter will help
you avoid the most common health and safety code
violations, it does not address all code requirements.
You should refer to other sources for more
information before tackling complex projects.

In this chapter:
• Habitable Rooms
• Fire Separations
• Stairways
• Emergency Escape Openings
• Egress Doors
• Exterior Doors
• Door & Window Hazards
• Ventilation & Exhaust
• Smoke & Carbon Monoxide Alarms

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 Habitable
space
60"
84" minimum
Not
habitable space

Habitable Rooms Provide at least 84" of clear ceiling height between the
finished floor and the ceiling at the center of the room. If the
ceiling
Illo 24 slopes, only that floorspace where the ceiling height is

H abitable rooms (also called habitable spaces) atCG_Codes

least 60" may be considered habitable. Heights less than
07-20-2009
60", such as kneewall areas, may be useful for storage, but
are living, sleeping, eating, and cooking rooms. they aren’t considered living space.
Bathrooms, toilet rooms, closets, hallways, storage,
and utility rooms are not habitable rooms. Habitable
rooms have their own set of requirements for size,
ceiling height, heating, lighting, and ventilation.
Rooms that are not habitable do not have
these requirements.
Minimum Ceiling Height
1. Provide at least an 84-inch-tall finished ceiling
height in habitable rooms and in hallways,
including a basement containing habitable rooms
and hallways. Measure ceiling height from the
finished floor to the lowest projection from the
ceiling. Projections usually include components
such as joists, beams, and ducts. Projections do
not usually include light fixtures and ceiling fans.

2. You may have obstructions that are at least

76 inches above the finished floor in a basement
Minimum ceiling height (84") containing habitable rooms and hallways.
ignores lights and fixtures
3. Provide at least an 80-inch-tall finished ceiling
height in a basement that does not contain habitable
rooms or hallways. You may have obstructions that
are at least 76 inches above the finished floor in
these basement areas. Use these basement areas
only for mechanical equipment and for storage.
Measure between finished floor and the lowest part of the
ceiling in most rooms and basements to determine if 4. Provide at least an 80-inch finished ceiling height in
minimum ceiling height standards are met. Ceiling-mounted bathrooms and laundry rooms. This does not mean
lights and fans do not factor into the height measurement.
that all of the bathroom must have an 80-inch-tall
ceiling. The ceiling height above sinks and toilets
may be less than 80 inches high but must be high
HABITABLE ROOM AREA REQUIREMENTS enough to safely use the fixture. How much less is
• Provide every habitable room with an area of at least subject to interpretation by the building inspector.
70 sq. ft.
5. Provide at least an 84-inch-tall finished ceiling
• Provide every habitable room with a horizontal
height in habitable rooms with a sloped ceiling.
dimension of at least 84". Kitchens may be
excepted: In some conditions you may design a
Provide this ceiling height for at least 35 square feet
kitchen that is smaller than 70 sq. ft. or with a of the finished floor area. Do not count any area
horizontal dimension less than 84". with a ceiling height less than 60 inches toward the
minimum 70-square-foot habitable room floor area.

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 Bathroom Design Standards

A 6'-tall person should be able to use a sink or toilet without Provide at least 80" of finished ceiling height for all
bumping his or her head on the ceiling. of the required floor area in showers and in tubs
containing showers.

Codes (and good design practices)

15" from center
insist on ample space between
of toilet to nearest
wall or fixture
bathroom fixtures.

21" clearance in front

of sinks and toilets

22" clearance 24" clearance in front

for shower door of shower door

Shower base at least

30" × 30" Door

Shower Size
1. Provide showers with a finished area of at least 2. You may provide a shower with a finished
900 square inches and a finished minimum minimum dimension of at least 25 inches if the
dimension of at least 30 inches. Maintain the finished area is at least 1,300 square inches.
minimum dimensions from the top of the threshold
to at least 70 inches above the shower drain outlet. 3. Provide a shower compartment entry opening of
Measure the shower from the center line of the at least 22 inches finished width.
threshold (curb). You may install valves, shower
heads, soap dishes, and grab bars that encroach 4. Swing hinged shower doors out from the shower
into the minimum dimensions. You may install stall. Hinged doors may swing into the shower stall
a fold-down seat in the shower if the minimum if they also swing out. Sliding shower doors are
dimensions are maintained when the seat is up. also allowed.

BUILDING DESIGN & SAFETY 21

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 Fire Separations

Fire Separation:
Garage & Home
Many fires begin in garages. Unfortunately,
garage fires often are more intense than fires that
start elsewhere, because gasoline, cardboard,
newspapers, and other flammable materials are VIOLATION! DO NOT install pet doors in doors that separate
the garage from the dwelling.
usually stored in the garage. Fire safety is an
important rationale for many IRC provisions.
Because of this the IRC has special requirements
to help prevent the spreading of garage fires into
the home.
Fire Separation Doors
In walls that are shared between your dwelling and
your garage, use at least a 20-minute fire-rated door.
These may be made from solid wood or honeycomb-
core steel. Use doors that are at least 1⅜ inch thick.
Doors in a garage wall may not open directly into
a bedroom. You also may not install pet doors or
other openings in doors or walls from a garage into
the home unless the pet door or opening is listed to
maintain fire separation. Install self-closing hinges on
doors between the garage and the home.

DEFINITION OF A GARAGE
A garage is defined as a space for parking motor
vehicles that is completely closed to the outdoors on
three or more sides. It typically has an overhead door,
but a structure that meets the requirement but has no
door is still considered a garage. A carport is a space
for parking motor vehicles that is open to the outdoors
on at least two sides. A space with two solid walls (often
the house walls), a partially open wall, and an opening
without a vehicle door is considered a carport. Garages
and carports may be attached to, or detached from, the
dwelling. Garage fire separation requirements do not
A fire-rated door with a minimum rating of 20 minutes is normally apply to carports.
required in walls shared between a garage and a home.

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 Fire Separation Walls & Ceilings
Walls and ceilings that separate the home from the
garage should be covered on the garage side with
gypsum drywall that’s at least ½ inch thick. A garage
must have a ceiling made of Type X drywall that’s a
minimum of ⅝ inch thick if the garage is beneath a
habitable room. (Type X has fibrous reinforcement to
help the drywall maintain its integrity when exposed
to high heat).
Maintain the same fire separation for drywall
penetrations, such as attic scuttle holes, pull-down
attic stairs, gas vents, and plumbing pipes, as provided
by the gypsum drywall. Most pull-down attic stairs
interrupt the ceiling fire separation, because the panel
to which the stairs are attached is thin plywood. Seal
penetrations between the garage and the home, such
as pipes and ducts, with materials that resist the free
flow of fire and smoke. Such materials include fire-
resistant caulk.

VIOLATION! Do not install pull-down stairs in a garage ceiling

Type X drywall is required on garage ceilings if the space unless they maintain the required fire separation. The
above is habitable. standard plywood covers do not maintain fire separation.

HVAC Ducts & Registers in Garages

Use at least 26-gauge sheet steel or other approved to an independent HVAC system that serves only the
material to construct HVAC ducts that are installed garage. Do not use flexible HVAC duct or duct board
in a garage and ducts that pass through garage walls to penetrate garage walls and ceilings. Flexible ducts
and ceilings. Do not install HVAC supply or return air and duct board may attach to steel ducts after the
openings in the garage. This restriction does not apply steel ducts penetrate the garage firewall.

BUILDING DESIGN & SAFETY 23

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 the lights should illuminate them too. For example, a
light fixture at the top of a stairway may not provide
enough light to illuminate the bottom landing,
especially if the stairway changes direction. The light
must be capable of illuminating treads and landings
to at least 1 foot-candle.

Stairways NOTE: A foot‑candle is a unit of light measurement

approximating the amount of light you receive from
a birthday cake candle when it is held 12 inches
from your eyes. Photographer’s light meters may be

I nterior and exterior stairways are regulated closely

by most codes because they are inherently very
dangerous parts of a house. Many of the regulations
used to measure foot‑candles.
You must locate a switch for interior stairway
lights at the top and bottom of all interior stairs with
Li

deal with lighting issues, including the type and at least six risers. Only one switch is required for
location of fixtures and switches. The size, grippability, interior stairs with fewer than six risers. Locate all
and location of handrails and railing balusters stair switches so they can be used without climbing
also account for much of the regulatory wording any steps.
on stairways. Regulations for interior stairways also
apply to exterior stairways. They include riser height, Exterior Stairway Lighting & Switching
tread depth, and handrails and guards. It is important Codes for outdoor stairway lighting differ somewhat
to comply with exterior stairway regulations, because from interior requirements and recommendations.
they are used when wet or covered with snow and ice. In exterior areas, you must locate a light fixture near
the top landing for stairs providing access to doors
Interior Stairway Lighting & Switching above grade level. You must also locate a light fixture
You should install as many light fixtures as necessary near the bottom landing for stairs providing access to
to illuminate all stairway landings and treads. The doors below grade level. Locate the switch inside the
areas at the top and bottom of stairs are landings, so dwelling for exterior stairs.

DEFINITIONS OF STAIRWAY TERMS

Landing: A landing is a flat surface at the top and bottom of a stairway, or
Landing
it may also occur at points within a stairway. A landing must be at least as
Tread
wide as the stairway and at least 36" deep.

Nosing: A tread nose (nosing) is the part of a horizontal stair surface that
projects outward beyond a solid (closed) riser below.

Riser: A riser is the vertical part of a stair. A closed riser is created with
solid material between adjacent treads. An open riser has no material
(except for any required guards) between adjacent treads. Winder
tread
Stairway (flight of stairs): A series of risers and treads that is not
interrupted by a landing, a flight of stairs includes the landings at the top Riser
and bottom of the flight. A stairway with only a top and bottom landing has
one flight of stairs. A stairway with a landing in the middle has two flights Nosing
of stairs.

Tread: A tread is the horizontal part of a stair. A tread is sometimes called

the step.

Winder tread: A winder is a tread with one end wider than the other. Stairway components include: tread, winder
Winders are often used to change a stairway’s direction. tread, nosing, riser, landing, flight of stairs.

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 Light switch

Light switch

Install a light switch at the top and bottom of stairways with at Install a light at the top landing of above-grade exterior stairs.
least six risers.

36" min.

31½" min.

Provide a finished width of at least 36" above the handrail and

at least 311⁄2" at and below one handrail.

Stairway Width
1. Provide a finished stairway width of at least
36 inches above handrail to the minimum
headroom height.

2. Provide a finished stairway width of at least

31½ inches at and below the handrail for stairs
One light at a center landing may not be enough to illuminate with one handrail and at least 27 inches at and
the top and bottom landings. below both handrails for stairs with two handrails.

BUILDING DESIGN & SAFETY 25

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 Riser Height 3. Do not allow open risers to fit a 4-inch-diameter
1. Provide a finished riser height of not more than sphere for passthrough. This includes interior
7¾ inches. Measure riser height vertically from stairs and exterior stairs, such as stairs for
leading edges of adjacent treads. The IRC does not decks and balconies, but does not include
mandate a minimum riser height. spiral stairs.

2. Do not exceed ⅜-inch finished riser height 4. Do not include the height of carpets, carpet pads,
difference between any two risers in a flight of stairs. rugs, and runners when measuring riser height.

Maximum riser height is 7¾". Maximum

difference between two risers in a flight
of stairs is 3⁄8".

7¾" max.

Open risers have the potential to trap

the head of a small child. Do not allow
an open riser to pass a 4" diameter
sphere. Install filler strips to reduce Filler strip
riser opening size, beginning with the
fourth riser.

Tread Depth
Nosing 1. Provide a finished tread depth of at least 10 inches.
Measure tread depth horizontally from the leading
edges of adjacent treads and at a right angle to the
tread’s leading edge.

2. Do not exceed ⅜-inch finished tread depth

difference between any two treads in a flight of
10" min. stairs. This does not apply to consistently shaped
Provide a tread depth of at least 10" if treads have a nosing or winder treads contained within the same flight
at least 11" if treads have no nosing. of stairs.

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 Tread Nosing
1. Provide a finished tread nosing depth of at least
¾ inch and not more than 1¼ inches for stairs OK range ¾" to 1¼"
with solid risers. Add the nosing depth to the
10-inch minimum tread depth. Tread nosing is
not required if treads are at least 11 inches deep.

2. Do not exceed ⅜-inch finished tread nosing

depth difference between any two treads for all
treads between two stories, including at floors
and landings. Note that this differs from the
tread and riser maximum difference. The tread Provide a tread nosing depth of at least ¾" and not more than
and riser differences are for a flight of stairs, 1¼". Do not exceed 9⁄16" radius for a curved nosing or ½"
and the nosing depth difference is for all treads depth for a beveled nosing.
between two stories.

3. Do not exceed 9⁄16 inch for the curvature radius of

a tread nosing, and do not exceed ½ inch for the
bevel of a tread nosing.

Tread Slope
1. Slope treads and landings not more than 2 percent
from horizontal in any direction.
The step up from landings should be not more than 7¾".
Winder Stair Treads Measure the step to the top of the threshold. Make landings
1. Locate the winder tread walkline at 12 inches at least as wide as the stairway and at least 36" deep.
from the inside of where the winder tread turns.
Measure the tread depth at the widest point along finished floor of a landing. Projections from the
the walkline. ceiling are permitted above the minimum finished
headroom height.
2. Provide a finished winder tread depth of at least
6 inches at any point on a winder tread within
Stairway Landings
the finished width of the stairway and at least
1. Provide a landing or floor at the top and bottom of
10 inches at the walkline. most stairs.
3. Do not exceed ⅜-inch finished tread depth 2. You are not required to provide a landing or floor
difference between any two treads in a flight of at the top of interior stairs, including stairs in an
stairs measured at the walk line. attached garage, unless a door swings over those
stairs. This means you may terminate a flight
4. Do not compare the depth of winder treads to the of interior stairs directly into a door if the door
depth of rectangular treads in a flight of stairs if: swings away from the stairs.
(a) the winder treads all have a consistent shape,
and (b) the winder treads comply with the winder 3. Do not exceed 151 inches vertical rise of a
tread depth requirements. Winder treads will not flight of stairs without providing a landing
have the same depth as the rectangular treads, so or a floor. Example: do not install more
the winder tread depth will not be within ⅜ inch of than twenty 7⅜-inch-high risers without an
the rectangular tread depth. intermediate landing.

Stairway Headroom Height 4. Make rectangular and square landing widths

1. Provide a finished stairway headroom height of at at least as wide as the stairway. Example: if the
least 80 inches measured vertically from a sloped stairway is 36 inches wide, build the landing at
plane connecting the tread nosing or from the least 36 inches wide.

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 5. Make rectangular and square landings depth at 4. Provide guards at least 34 inches high on the open
least 36 inches, measured in the direction of travel. sides of stairs. Measure the guards vertically from
the nosing of the treads.
6. You may make landings with shapes other than
rectangular or square if: (a) the depth of the landing 5. Limit the height of guards that are also handrails
at walk line is at least as wide as the stairway and to not more than 38 inches. The IRC does not limit
(b) the total area of the landing is at least as large as guard height other than for handrails.
a ¼ circle with a radius equal to the required width
of the landing. The walk line is 12 inches from the
narrow side of the landing. The area of a circle
is 3.14 multiplied by the circle’s radius squared.
Example: the minimum area of a curved landing
serving a 36-inch-wide stairway is calculated
(36 in.2 × 3.14) × .25 = 1,017.9 square inches.

Guards: Definition
A guard is a barrier that protects occupants from
falling from a raised surface, such as a stairway, deck,
or balcony. Guards are often call guardrails when the
guard also serves as a handrail; however, guards need
not be an open rail. A guard may be a partial height
solid wall, a partial height wall containing safety
glazing, or any other structure that complies with
IRC requirements.

Handrails & Guards: Location

1. Provide a handrail on at least one side of every
continuous flight of stairs with four or more risers. Install a handrail on stairways with at least four risers. Provide
a continuous handrail beginning above the first riser and
2. Provide a guard at raised walking surfaces more ending at or above the last riser.
than 30 inches above an adjacent interior or
exterior surface. Areas that require guards include
34 to 38"
porches, balconies, decks, hallways, screened
enclosures, ramps, and the open sides of stairs
with a total rise of more than 30 inches.

Height
1. Install the handrail at least 34 inches and not
more than 38 inches above the treads measured
vertically from a sloped plane connecting the tread
nosing or from the finished floor of a ramp.

2. You may exceed the 38-inch maximum height

where a handrail connects with a guard to provide
a continuous structure. Example: a handrail
connects to a guard at an intermediate stairway
landing. The handrail height at the beginning and
ending of the intermediate landing guard may
exceed 38 inches high.

3. Provide guards at least 36 inches tall at raised Install handrails at least 34" and not more than 38" above a
surfaces other than the open sides of stairs. sloped line connecting the stair treads.

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 4" max.
Yes Yes

43⁄8" max.

Yes
No

The maximum space between guard Install handrails that have the required gripping surface dimensions. Three of the
vertical members is a 4"-diameter above profiles will suffice. Handrails using 2 × 4 and larger lumber are too large to
sphere. The maximum space for stairway be grippable and thus do not meet the dimensions standard.
guards is a 43⁄8" diameter sphere.

Continuity a graspable finger recess on both sides of

1. Run the handrail continuously from at least a the profile.
point directly above the top riser of the flight of
stairs to at least a point directly above the lowest 4. Apply handrail shape requirements to interior and
riser of the flight. exterior stairways, including stairways for decks
and balconies.
2. Begin and end all handrails with a newel post,
volute, starting easing, or starting newel. Openings
1. Do not allow openings in horizontal guards to pass
3. Project handrails at least 1½ inches and not more a 4-inch-diameter sphere.
than 4½ inches from any adjacent wall.
2. Do not allow stair guard openings, such as
4. You may interrupt a handrail with a newel post at balusters, to pass a 4⅜-inch-diameter sphere.
a turn.
3. Do not allow openings under stair guards formed
5. Provide continuous guards for open sides of the by a riser, tread, and the guard’s bottom rail to pass
entire flight of stairs, even if some of the flight is a 6-inch-diameter sphere.
less than 30 inches above an adjacent surface.
Handrails & Guards Live Loads
6. You need not provide a guard if the entire flight 1. Install handrails and guards so they will resist a
of stairs is less than 30 inches above an adjacent uniform distributed force of at least 200 pounds
surface. This applies even if a lower flight of stairs per square foot applied in any direction at any
connects with an upper flight of stairs at a landing. point along the top.
Example: a landing occurs before the last three risers
of a stairway. The last three risers are a separate flight
of stairs and do not require a guard or a handrail.

Shape
1. Use material with an outside diameter of at least
1¼ inches and not more than 2 inches for Type 1
circular handrails. 6" max.

2. Use material with a perimeter dimension of

at least 4 inches and not more than 6¼ inches
and a cross-section dimension of not more than
2¼ inches for Type 1 non-circular handrails.

3. Provide Type 2 handrails that have a perimeter The maximum space in the triangle formed by a tread, riser,
dimension greater than 6¼ inches with and stair guard bottom rail is a 6" diameter sphere.

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 Emergency
Escape Openings

A n emergency escape and rescue opening,

commonly called an egress opening, is required
in all bedrooms and in most basements. Codes are
very specific concerning the minimum clearances of
the openings and how they can be accessed, as well as
how they can be exited from the exterior. Rooms that
are not intended for sleeping typically do not need to
meet egress requirements. You may use an operable
window or a side-hinged or sliding door as the
escape opening.

Escape Opening Locations

1. Provide at least one escape opening in every
bedroom, including bedrooms above, at, and
below ground level. Egress windows allow emergency exit from a structure and
must meet certain minimum size and accessibility codes.
They are required primarily in bedrooms and basements.
2. Provide at least one escape opening in most
basements. You are not required to provide a
basement escape opening if: (a) the basement area is
not more than 200 square feet and (b) the basement LOCKS & BARS ON OPENINGS
is used only to house mechanical appliances. Do not cover or obstruct escape openings with locks,
bars, screens, or similar devices unless they can be
3. Provide each basement bedroom with an escape operated from the inside without tools, keys, lock
opening. You are not required to provide other combinations, and special knowledge, and can be
escape openings in basements in addition to the operated with the same force required to open the
bedroom escape openings. escape opening.

4. Open all escape openings directly onto an

area that leads directly to a public way. This to the full required dimensions and (b) the space
means that escape openings cannot open onto an under the deck or porch is at least 36 inches high.
enclosed courtyard or onto a similar area that does
not lead directly and without obstruction to an 6. Note that an escape opening may be
area that is accessible by the public. required when converting a previously
unfinished basement into finished space,
5. You may open an escape opening under a deck especially if the finished space is a bedroom. Verify
or porch if: (a) the escape opening can be opened requirements with the local building official.

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 Escape Opening Size
1. Provide escape openings with a clear opening area sill height from the finished floor to the where the
of at least 5.7 square feet. This includes escape clear opening begins (the bottom of the opening).
openings above and below grade level. You may
reduce an escape opening at grade level to at least 4. Measure escape opening height and width using
5.0 square feet. the clear opening area, which does not include
obstructions, such as window frames.
2. Provide each escape opening with a clear opening
at least 24 inches high and at least 20 inches wide.
34" minimum
20" minimum
3. Locate the sill of each escape opening not more
than 44 inches above the finished floor. Measure the

Openable

41" clear
area:

24" minimum
Openable 5.7 sq. ft.

Window & Area Wells area:

5.7 sq. ft.
minimum

minimum
1. Provide all below-grade escape windows with a
window well and below-grade escape doors with Minimum size Minimum size
window for window for
an area well. The following apply to both window 24" height 20" width
wells and area wells.
Sill height
44"
2. Provide each well with at least a 9-square-foot maximum
clear opening area and a depth and width of at Floor
least 36 inches in each direction.
To satisfy building codes for egress, a basement window must
3. Install a permanent ladder if the well bottom is have a minimum opening of 5.7 sq. ft. through one sash, with
more than 44 inches below grade. Ladder rung at least 20" of clear width and 24" of clear height. Casement,
specifications include: a rung width of at least double-hung, and sliding window styles may be used as
12 inches, a rung projection of at least 3 inches long as their dimensions for width and height meet these
minimum requirements.
from the well wall, and a rung vertical spacing
of not more than 18 inches apart. A ladder NOTE: If the window opening is the minimum in both
may encroach not more than 6 inches into the dimensions, it will be too small; at least one dimension
minimum well width or depth dimension. must be more than minimum to meet the code requirement.

Egress wells must be at least 36" wide

and project 36" from the foundation.
Those deeper than 44" must have a
means of escape, such as an attached
ladder or a tiered design that forms
steps. Drainage at the bottom of
the well should be connected to the
36 foundation drain or to another approved
u m "m drainage system.
i nim ini
mu
"m m
36

BUILDING DESIGN & SAFETY 31

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 Egress Doors

T he egress door opens to the outside and meets

all egress door requirements for accessibility and
opening size. Every dwelling must have at least one
egress door. The egress door is usually the front door.
Other exterior doors need not comply with the egress
door requirements.

Egress Door Requirements

1. Provide at least one egress door that: (a) is 36" min.
accessible from all areas of the home and (b)
allows people to go directly outside without 73⁄4" max.
traveling through the garage.

2. Install a side-hinged egress door that provides a Build a landing at least 36" deep on both sides of the egress
door. You may build the exterior landing not more than 73⁄4"
clear opening at least 32 inches wide and 78 inches below the top of the threshold.
high. Measure door width between the face of the
door when open to 90 degrees and the outer edge
of the door stop. Measure door height between EGRESS DOOR LOCK
the top of the threshold and the bottom of the
stop. This means that a 36-inch by 80-inch door is Do not install a double cylinder dead bolt lock or any
required when using standard-size doors. other lock or device that requires use of a key, tool, or
any special knowledge or effort to open the egress door.
3. Provide a landing on the interior and exterior This includes screen and security doors.
sides of the door. Build each landing at least
as wide as the door. Example: if the door
is 36 inches wide, then build each landing at
least 36 inches wide. Build each landing at least
36 inches deep, measured in the direction of travel.

4. Build the interior and exterior landings not more

than 1½ inches below the top of the threshold.

5. You may build the exterior landing not more than

7¾ inches below the top of the threshold, if the
egress door does not swing over the landing. You
may build the exterior landing with not more than
a 2 percent slope away from the door. You may
have a storm door or a screen door swing over
any landing.
VIOLATION! Use only thumb-latch deadbolts on
6. Provide a ramp or a stairway to any egress door egress doors.
that is not at grade level.

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 Exterior Doors
A landing area is required on both sides
of exterior doors.

Exterior Door Landing Requirements

1. Provide a landing on the interior and exterior sides 5. You may build the exterior landing with not more 
of exterior doors. than a 2 percent slope away from the door.

2. Build each landing at least as wide as the door 6. You are not required to build a landing on the
served. Example: if the door is 36 inches wide, then exterior side of a door if: (a) a stairway of not more
build each landing at least 36 inches wide. than two risers is on the exterior side and (b) the
exterior door does not swing over the stairway.
3. Build each landing at least 36 inches deep,
measured in the direction of travel. 7. You may build an exterior landing not more than
7¾ inches below the top of the door threshold if
4. Build each landing not more than 1½ inches below the exterior door does not swing over the landing.
the top of the threshold.
8. Provide a ramp or a stairway to any exterior door
that is not at grade level.
SITE ADDRESS
9. You may have a storm door or a screen door swing
Install approved building address numbers or letters that over any stairway and landing serving as a door
are clearly legible from the road fronting the property.
into the house.
This is so emergency responders can quickly locate the
property. Make the letters and/or numbers Arabic type
that are at least 4" tall and at least ½" wide. Make the
10. You are not required to build a landing on the
letters or numbers contrast with the background. exterior side of a door that opens to a narrow,
above-grade balcony or similar structure.

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 Door & Window Hazards

Y ou may have seen pictures of people severely cut

when they fell or were pushed through doors
and windows containing regular glass. Regular glass
Another window hazard involves children falling
from windows where the sill is close to the floor.
Recent general codes require a mechanism that
usually breaks into large pieces that can cause severe prevents a child from opening these windows enough
injury. Safety glass shatters into very small pieces that so that they can climb through them and fall.
are less likely to cause severe cuts. Safety glazing and fall hazard rules are
General codes designate several locations as complicated and have many exceptions. Our objective
hazardous, where people could fall or be pushed here is to introduce the subject and point out some
through glass. These locations are mostly near doors, hazardous locations that you might encounter if you
near water, and near stairs. A large window where the remodel or add to your home.
sill is close to the floor is also a hazardous location.
Safety glazing usually means tempered glass;
however, other materials also qualify. This is why it
is called safety glazing, not safety glass. Most safety
glazing should be identified with permanent writing
in one corner of the glazing. This writing can be very
difficult to see, so look closely before deciding that Safety glazing not required

glazing is not safety glazing.

Safety glazing required

Laminated glass is one type of safety glazing that has a clear The sidelights on both sides of the door should contain safety
membrane in the center layer to keep the shattered glass glazing. Safety glazing is not required in the transom above
more or less in place when it breaks. Tempered glass is the door.
another common type of safety glazing.

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 Windows above bathtubs and showers should contain safety
glazing unless the bottom of the glazing is located 60" or more
above the tub or shower floor.

stairs and the window and if the window is

36 inches or more away from the nearest part of
the stairs.

4. Use safety glazing in windows within 60 inches of

the last tread at the bottom of a stairway when the
bottom of the glazing is less than 36 inches above
the adjacent walking surface.

Safety Glazing Near Wet Surfaces

Windows along stairways and at landings should contain
1. Use safety glazing in bathtub and shower doors
safety glazing if the bottom edge of the glazing is less than 36"
above the stair walking surface. and enclosures.

2. Use safety glazing in walls, enclosures, and fences

Safety Glazing In & Near Doors that are less than 60 inches horizontally from
1. Use safety glazing in doors, including swinging the edge of bathtubs, showers, swimming pools,
and sliding doors, outside doors, and interior whirlpool tubs, hot tubs, saunas, and steam rooms.
doors such as French doors. Exceptions include Exceptions include windows when the bottom
decorative glazing, such as stained glass, and edge of the glazing is located 60 inches or more
glazing in very small openings in the door. above the walking surface and windows that do
not face the bathtub, etc.
2. Use safety glazing in windows that are within
24 inches on either side of a door. Exceptions Window Fall Protection
include decorative glazing and windows when the 1. Install a means to restrict the distance that an
bottom edge of the glazing is located 60 inches or operable window can open so that a 4-inch-diameter
more above the walking surface. sphere cannot pass when: (a) the top of the window
sill is less than 24 inches above the finished floor and
Safety Glazing Near Stairs & In Guards (b) the top of the window sill is more than 72 inches
1. Use safety glazing in guards, including guards above the exterior surface below.
at decks, balconies, raised walkways, and
similar locations. 2. You may comply with this provision by
permanently restricting the window opening
2. Use safety glazing in stairway handrail guards. distance, except where the window serves as an
emergency escape and rescue opening.
3. Use safety glazing in windows within stairways
when the bottom edge of the glazing is less than 3. You may comply with this provision by installing
36 inches above the adjacent walking surface. a window opening control device that complies
Exceptions include if a handrail is between the with ASTM F2090.

BUILDING DESIGN & SAFETY 35

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 Ventilation & Exhaust

C ontrolling moisture levels in a home is important

for your comfort and health, as well as for the
health of your home. Although inadequate moisture
and our homes are filled with these products, there is
little we can do about the food risk. The one thing we
can do something about is moisture.
levels can cause discomfort for some people and can Water vapor travels in the air. When water vapor
cause furnishings and some construction materials condenses on visible surfaces, it provides the moisture
to become brittle, it is not usually a significant risk that mold needs. We then see what is often called
to you or to your home, so the IRC has no provisions mildew. Mildew is another name for mold. When
governing minimum moisture and humidity levels. water vapor travels into attics and wall cavities, it can
Too much moisture, however, can be a significant condense and provide moisture for mold. Mold can
risk to you and your home, so the IRC has several grow in these hidden spaces for long periods before it
provisions governing the removal of excess moisture. is discovered. Damage to your home and health can be
Current indoor air quality best practices also significant when mold grows for long periods of time.
encourage removal of excess moisture and other Water vapor is always present in every home.
contaminants from the home. Some water vapor occurs naturally in the air. We
The greatest threat posed by water vapor is that introduce some water vapor into the home with
it provides one of the three things that mold needs every breath we take. Much of the water vapor
to grow. The other two are the correct temperature in a home results from activities such as bathing,
and food. Mold grows at the same temperatures we cooking, and clothes drying. The IRC has provisions
humans prefer, so there is little we can do about that. that help remove the excess water vapor caused by
Because mold eats almost any wood-based product these activities.

Moisture exhaust
requirements
generally are Air outlet
met with a
combination of
natural (windows
and doors) and
mechanical
(ventilation fans)
solutions. The
bathroom and
kitchen are the
two rooms where
ventilation is
most critical.

Air intake (ventilation fan)

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 Air Movement Requirements
1. Provide outdoor light and ventilation to 7. Provide an automatic or gravity-operated damper
bathrooms, toilet rooms, and similar areas using for exhaust systems that will close the damper
windows or doors containing glazing. Provide a when the system is not operating.
total glazing area of at least 3 square feet with at
least 1½ square feet operable. Open the glazing 8. Do not direct outdoor exhaust openings, such as
directly onto a street, public alley, or onto a yard or from bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans, onto
court located on the same lot. Best practice is to a walkway.
equip every bathroom with a ventilation fan.
9. Protect outdoor air intake and exhaust openings
2. You may replace the glazing with artificial with a corrosion-resistant screen having openings
light and exhaust ventilation. Provide exhaust at least ¼ and not more than ½ inch or by louvers,
ventilation of at least 20 cubic feet per minute dampers, or similar means. This does not include
(cfm) continuous ventilation or at least 50 cfm for clothes dryer exhaust openings. Do not cover
a switched ventilation fan. clothes dryer exhaust openings with a screen.

3. Comply with the ventilation fan manufacturer’s 10. Protect outdoor openings against local weather
instructions or general codes about exhaust duct conditions, such as rain and snow infiltration and
type and length. Three-inch diameter duct may blockage by snow accumulation.
not be allowed as an exhaust duct. Four-inch
diameter or larger duct may be required.
EXHAUST FAN LABELS
4. Discharge bathroom and toilet room ventilation
fan exhaust directly outdoors. Discharging a
ventilation fan exhaust duct into or toward an
attic, soffit, or crawl space ventilation opening
does not comply with this provision.

5. Terminate exhaust fans at least: (a) 3 feet from

property lines, gravity air intake openings, operable Check the information label attached to each exhaust
windows and doors; (b) 10 feet horizontally or fan. Bathroom fans that are switch-operated should be
3 feet above mechanical air intake openings (such rated at least 50 cfm. Baths over 100 sq. ft., or multiple
as for a heat recovery ventilation unit). tubs or showers, should have higher-capacity fans. The
sone rating refers to the relative quietness of the unit,
rated on a scale of 1 to 7. (Quieter fans have lower sone
6. Do not recirculate air from bathrooms within a ratings.)
residence or into another residence.

Terminate exhaust ducts directly outdoors with a cover that VIOLATION! Do not terminate exhausts into attic or crawl
protects against weather and pest infiltration. space areas.

BUILDING DESIGN & SAFETY 37

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 Kitchen Exhaust Requirements
General Installation Requirements 3. You may, but are not required to, install a
1. You need not install either a recirculating or recirculating kitchen hood if the kitchen is
an externally ducted kitchen exhaust hood; provided with natural or mechanical ventilation.
however, externally ducted kitchen exhaust
hoods are recommended. Verify kitchen 4. Provide a backdraft damper at the duct
exhaust hood requirements with the local termination or other approved location. Many
building official, because interpretation of kitchen hoods and cabinet-mounted microwave
kitchen exhaust hood requirements can vary ovens have backdraft dampers integrated into
among jurisdictions. the appliances.

2. Terminate a kitchen exhaust hood duct, if any, Aboveground Exhaust Duct Construction

to the outdoors when natural or mechanical 1. Discharge the kitchen exhaust fan to the outdoors
ventilation is not provided in the kitchen area. using a duct. Do not discharge the fan through a
Natural ventilation usually means an operable framed cavity.
window in the kitchen area. Mechanical ventilation
may be provided by a ducted central heating 2. Use galvanized steel, stainless steel, or copper to
system that is connected to a ventilation opening construct kitchen exhaust ducts.
terminating outdoors. Mechanical ventilation may
be provided by a heat recovery or energy recovery 3. Seal the exhaust duct air tight to avoid leaking
ventilation system. Most homes have either natural flammable grease into wall or floor cavities
or mechanical ventilation in the kitchen area, so or between the kitchen exhaust hood and the
external discharge of range hoods is rarely required. kitchen cabinet.

Galvanized metal

Use galvanized metal ductwork for range hood ducts, and be Externally exhausted range hoods are not required by codes
sure to seal the joints very well so the airborne grease doesn’t except in very rare situations. Typical cabinet-mounted
escape into walls and cabinets, where it poses a fire hazard. models, such as the one seen here, are quite popular,
however, and are recommended whenever practical.

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 Exhaust Duct Termination Effective length adds for the losses created by
1. Terminate kitchen exhaust hood ducts outside elbows and termination fittings.
the building. This does not include attics and
crawl spaces. 5. Connect the microwave to the exhaust duct. Do
not simply blow the exhaust at the hole in the
2. Provide a backdraft damper at the duct cabinet where the exhaust duct is located.
termination or other approved location. Many
kitchen exhaust hoods and cabinet-mounted 6. Install the backdraft damper if one is supplied with
microwave ovens have backdraft dampers the microwave.
integrated into the equipment.

Kitchen Exhaust Fan Rates

1. Provide an exhaust rate of at least 100 cfm
for intermittently operated exhaust hoods
or at least 20 cfm for continuously operating
exhaust hoods.

2. Provide makeup air for exhaust fans with a

capacity of more than 400 cfm. Install a gravity
operated or an electrically operated damper to
open and close the takeup air duct.

Replacing a Range Hood

with a Microwave Oven
This is a popular upgrade that is often installed
incorrectly. Failure to read and follow manufacturer’s
Downdraft ventilation is a space-saving alternative to exhaust
instructions can be a fire hazard and a burn hazard. hoods, often used on kitchen islands with built-in cooktops.
It can also reduce the microwave’s service life. It is less efficient but will mitigate some of the cooking vapors
The following address some of the most frequent and airborne particulate matter.
installation errors.

1. Leave enough space between the microwave and

the range top. A typical instruction is to have at
least 66 inches between the floor and the top of the
microwave, at least 30 inches between the range
top and the bottom of the cabinet, and at least
2 inches between the bottom of the microwave
and the range control panel.

2. Connect the microwave to a dedicated 120-volt

66"
circuit. Most microwaves should be served by a
20-amp circuit.

3. Plug a microwave that comes with an attachment

plug into a receptacle. Do not connect the
microwave directly to the electrical wires, and do
not use an extension cord.

4. Use the size and type of exhaust duct material and

termination fittings specified by the microwave
manufacturer. Do not exceed the exhaust duct Many manufacturers recommend at least 66" between the floor
effective length specified by the manufacturer. and the top of the microwave.

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 Clothes Dryer Exhaust Requirements
General Installation Requirements
1. Construct, install, and terminate clothes dryer
exhaust ducts according to the clothes dryer
manufacturer’s installation instructions. If the
clothes dryer manufacturer is not known during
construction, use general requirements.

2. Do not connect clothes dryer exhaust ducts to any

other system, such as bathroom exhaust fan ducts,
plumbing vents, or fuel-burning equipment vents
and flues.
Use strap hangers to support rigid ducts. Install hangers at
joints at intervals not exceeding 12'.
3. Do not install clothes dryer exhaust ducts in
or through any fireblocking-, draftstopping-, or
fire-resistance-rated assembly, unless the duct is 2. Install duct joints so that the inside part of the
constructed and installed to maintain the code joint fits into the outside part of the joint in the
that requires fireblocking or draftstopping. direction of the air flow.

4. Do not run clothes dryer exhaust ducts into or 3. Fasten duct joints with mechanical fasteners,
through other ducts or plenums. Example: do not such as screws or pop rivets. Do not use screws or
run a clothes dryer exhaust duct into or through other fasteners that penetrate the duct more than
an HVAC supply or return duct or into or through ⅛ inch. Longer fasteners could trap lint.
a combustion air duct.
4. Seal the duct joints with metal tape or mastic.
5. Install the clothes dryer exhaust duct during
construction if space for a clothes dryer is provided.
5. Support the duct at least every 12 feet. Joints and
elbows are vulnerable areas for separation.
6. You may install a dryer duct booster fan to extend
the dryer exhaust duct’s length. Install the fan
6. Protect the duct with at least 16-gauge shield
according to the fan manufacturer’s instruction.
plates if the duct is within 1¼ inches from the
edge of a framing member. Extend the shield plate
Duct Construction
at least 2 inches above sole plates and below top
1. Use a 4-inch-diameter, smooth wall metal duct
that is at least 28 gauge, unless the clothes dryer plates. Protect the duct with shield plates at any
manufacturer’s instructions allow another diameter. other location where it is likely to be penetrated
by fasteners.

Duct Length
1. Do not exceed 35 feet developed length between
Transition duct
the beginning of the clothes dryer duct and
the duct termination, unless the clothes dryer
35' max. manufacturer’s installation instructions allow
a longer length. Developed length means the
straight line length of the duct, reduced by bends
in the duct. The clothes dryer manufacturer
is rarely known during construction, so the
Limit clothes dryer exhaust duct developed length to not more manufacturer’s installation instruction exception
than 35'. rarely applies.

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 2. Add 2½ feet for every 45-degree bend and 5 feet for 3. Provide a backdraft damper at the duct
every 90-degree bend to the dryer duct’s developed termination or at another approved location.
length. You may use the manufacturer-provided
developed length for smooth radius bends. You 4. Do not install a screen at the exhaust duct
may use the IRC table for smooth radius bend termination. A screen will trap lint.
developed length if the manufacturer’s instructions
are not available. 5. Make the open area of the exhaust duct
termination at least 12.5 square inches.
3. Do not include the transition duct in the dryer
duct developed length. Transition Duct
1. The transition duct is the duct (usually flexible
4. Locate a permanent label within 6 feet of the duct) between the dryer and the start of the
clothes dryer exhaust duct connection that smooth wall dryer exhaust duct.
shows the exhaust duct’s developed length. This
requirement applies only when the duct developed 2. Limit the transition duct length to 8 feet.
length is more than 35 feet.
3. Use only one piece of transition duct. Do not
Duct Termination splice together two or more lengths of transition
1. Terminate clothes dryer exhaust ducts outside the duct material.
building. Outside the building does not include
attics or crawl spaces. 4. Do not run the transition duct through walls or in
concealed spaces.
2. Locate the clothes dryer exhaust duct termination
at least 3 feet from: (a) the property line and Clothes Dryer Makeup Air
(b) operable and non-operable openings. 1. Provide makeup air for clothes dryers that exhaust
Operable openings include windows and doors. more than 200 cubic feet per minute. General
Non-operable openings include eave ventilation codes do not specify how to provide makeup air or
openings and combustion air openings. This specify that the makeup air come from outdoors.
provision does not apply if the clothes dryer
manufacturer’s installation instructions allow 2. Provide a net free opening of at least 100 square
other locations. The clothes dryer manufacturer inches when clothes dryers are installed in closets
is rarely known during construction, so the or provide makeup air by other approved means.
manufacturer’s installation instruction exception
rarely applies.

Use and install transition ducts according to the clothes dryer’s instructions. Replace Cut the transition duct to the shortest
plastic transition ducts (bottom) with flexible metal transition ducts (top). length possible. Eliminate bends and
kinks that will reduce air flow.

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 A

Smoke & Carbon

Monoxide Alarms
D C

S moke alarms and carbon monoxide (CO)

alarms have been required in houses for
many years. Combination smoke and CO alarms
are not preferred, because the service life of the Smoke alarms and carbon monoxide (CO) alarms have been required in
houses for many years. Carbon monoxide alarms (A) are triggered by
different alarms are different, meaning that one the presence of carbon monoxide gas. Smoke alarms are available in
alarm could fail before the other. photoelectric and ionization models. In ionization alarms (B), a small
You should replace old smoke and carbon amount of current flows in an ionization chamber. When smoke enters
monoxide alarms. Smoke alarms have a useful the chamber, it interrupts the current, triggering the alarm. Photoelectric
life of about 10 years. Carbon monoxide alarms alarms (C) rely on a beam of light, which when interrupted by smoke
triggers an alarm. Heat alarms (D) sound an alarm when they detect
have a useful life of about 7 years. Install carbon
areas of high heat in the room. Also available are combination smoke/
monoxide alarms near all bedrooms and inside CO alarms and ionization/photoelectric smoke alarms. The combination
bedrooms with a fuel-burning appliance, such ionization/photoelectric alarms are recommended, because they detect
as a gas fireplace. smoke from different types of fires.

Smoke alarm
interconnected
Living area
CO alarms
interconnected

Bedroom Bath

≤3'

≤3'
Garage

Bedroom Bedroom Bath Bedroom

with gas
fireplace

Install smoke alarms in and near all bedrooms and on all levels of a home.

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 Smoke & CO Alarm Required Locations
1. Locate a smoke alarm: (a) in every bedroom; interconnection is not required if the alarms are
(b) outside all bedroom areas in the immediate listed for wireless interconnection.
vicinity (usually about 10 feet) of all bedrooms;
(c) on every level in the home, including basements; 3. Provide arc-fault circuit-interrupter protection for
and (d) within 3 feet horizontally from the door of a the smoke alarm primary power.
bathroom containing a tub or a shower.
Smoke Alarm Installation
2. Do not install an ionization smoke alarm closer than 1. Install smoke alarms according to manufacturer’s
20 feet horizontally from a permanently installed instructions. This often includes locating the
cooking appliance. Do not install a photoelectric smoke alarm on the ceiling or on a wall not
smoke alarm closer than 6 feet horizontally from a more than 12 inches from the ceiling. Do not
permanently installed cooking appliance. locate a smoke alarm closer than 4 inches to the
intersection of a wall and ceiling. The smoke alarm
3. You may substitute a security system that includes may not detect smoke in this dead air zone.
smoke alarms if it provides the same protection
as hard-wired smoke alarms. The security system Smoke Alarm & CO Alarm Updates
ric smoke alarms must: (a) comply with the National
Fire Protection Association (NFPA) 72 standard
When Remodeling
1. Update the entire smoke alarm and carbon
and (b) must be a permanent fixture in the home.
monoxide alarm system to current code
n Security system smoke alarms installed as a
requirements (including alarm interconnection
t substitute system cannot be leased. They must be
a permanent part of the home. and hard-wiring) when building alterations,
repairs, or additions require a permit. This update
4. You are not required to locate smoke alarms: requirement does not apply to: (a) exterior work
(a) in crawl spaces and in uninhabitable attics, such as roofing, siding, window, and door repair
and (b) on the middle level of split-level homes if and replacement, (b) installation of or repairs to
smoke alarms are installed on the upper level, if plumbing and HVAC systems, and (c) situations
the middle level is less than one story below upper where access does not exist to allow installing
level, and if there is no door between levels. Note electrical wires that would provide power and
that some jurisdictions require smoke alarms on interconnection to the carbon monoxide alarms.
all levels of a split-level home.
Carbon Monoxide Alarm Requirements
Smoke Alarm Power Source 1. Install carbon monoxide alarms in homes equipped
1. Install smoke alarms that take primary power with fuel-fired appliances, such as gas and oil-fired
from the building electrical wiring and that have a furnaces, and in homes with an attached garage or
battery backup. a fireplace. The alarms must comply with UL2034.

2. Connect all smoke alarms together so one alarm 2. Install an alarm outside of bedroom areas in
activates all alarms (interconnection). Physical the immediate vicinity (usually about 10 feet) of
all bedrooms.
Do not locate
3. Connect all carbon monoxide alarms together so
a smoke alarm
closer than 4" to one alarm activates all alarms (interconnection).
the intersection of Physical interconnection is not required if the
a wall and ceiling. alarms are listed for wireless interconnection.
The smoke alarm
may not detect 4. Install carbon monoxide alarms in a bedroom if a
smoke in this
dead air zone.
fuel-fired appliance is located in the bedroom or in
an attached bathroom.

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 Structural
Components

A safe and healthy building begins with a solidly

built structure. The building’s foundation should
rest on stable soil and should be strong enough to
support the home during normal conditions as well as
during disasters, such as hurricanes and earthquakes.
The building’s floors, walls, and roof should be
secured to the foundation and to each other and
should be strong enough to support the home during
extreme conditions.
This chapter will help you understand basic
structural requirements for building as defined by the
building codes. The intent is to help you identify work
that may violate building codes so that you can bring
it to the attention of a contractor or other qualified
professional. Except for projects such as simple decks
and storage sheds, you should seek guidance from
qualified professionals before using the information
in this chapter to design you own buildings or to
perform structural remodeling on existing buildings.

In this chapter:
• Foundations
• Crawlspaces
• Decks
• Floor Systems
• Wall Systems
• Wall Penetration Flashing
• Roof Systems

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 Special Requirements for High Wind
& Seismic Risk Areas
Seismic Design Areas 2. Verify the seismic design category with the local
1. Provide increased strength and structural building official. The following may be in seismic
integrity for foundations, walls, roofs, gas pipes design areas: large parts of Alaska, California,
and appliances, and other components in seismic Hawaii, Nevada, Oregon, and Washington
design areas. Refer to the IRC and consult a State; small parts of Arizona, Colorado, Idaho,
qualified engineer or other qualified professional Montana, New Mexico, New York, and Utah; the
when building in seismic design areas. area near Memphis, Tennessee, and the area near
Charleston, South Carolina.

High Wind Design Areas

1. Provide increased strength and structural integrity
for foundations, walls, roofs, windows, and other
components in high wind design areas. Refer to the
IRC and consult a qualified engineer or other qualified
professional when building in high wind design areas.

2. Verify the wind design category with the local

building official. The following may be in high
wind design areas: much of Florida and Hawaii; the
areas within about 100 miles of the coastlines of
Alabama, Alaska, Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi,
North and South Carolina, Texas, and Virginia;
the areas within about 50 miles of the coastlines
of Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland,
Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New Jersey, and
Hurricane ties. If building codes in your area require them, New York. Several “Special Wind Areas” exist in
nail metal hurricane ties to the wall top plates before installing scattered areas of the country. These areas are
the rafters. mostly in mountainous areas and in the West.

Deflection of Structural Components

Most readers should not deal with bending of on one side (compression) and expand on the other
structural components, such as floors, walls, ceilings, side (tension).
and roofs. Leave this to qualified engineers and A load is a force (weight) placed on a component
contractors. Because “spongy” floors and rattling walls of a building. Example: a building’s foundation carries
are common complaints, this section explains some the load of the entire building. The dead load is the
basic concepts involved in deflection and helps you weight of the construction materials, such as drywall,
understand when deflection may be excessive. shingles, siding, and floor coverings, and the weight of
fixed equipment, such as a water heater. The live load
Deflection & Loads: Definitions is the weight of people and furnishings that occupy
Deflection is when a component of a building bends a building. A point load is a load in a small area. The
under a load. It can be a single component, such as heel of a high-heel shoe is an example of a point load.
a floor joist, or it can be a system, such as a floor or Environmental loads include wind, snow, and forces
a wall. Deflection causes a component to compress created during earthquakes.

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 A point load is a type of live load that is
concentrated in a small area, such as
a footstep. Point loads are temporary,
and in many cases they can exceed the
deflection minimums without causing
any particular problems.

Deflection Under Live Load

1. Install structural components, such as joists, studs, bedroom floor, the general codes assume that a live
and rafters, so that they will not bend more than load of at least 30 pounds of people, floor coverings,
the amount shown in Table 1 under an evenly and furnishings will be placed over each square foot
distributed live load. L is the unsupported length of the floor area. Example: the maximum deflection
of the component in inches. H is the unsupported of bedroom floor joists with the length between
height of the component in inches. Example: for a supports of 180 inches would be 180⁄360, or ½ inch.

TABLE 1: DEFLECTION UNDER LIVE LOAD

STRUCTURAL COMPONENT MAXIMUM DEFLECTION (INCHES)
Rafters with greater than 3/12 slope & no attached ceiling finish L/180
Interior walls H/180
Floors & plastered ceilings L/360
Exterior walls with plaster or stucco finish H/360
Other structural members L/240
Ceilings with flexible finishes, such as drywall L/240
Exterior walls with flexible finishes, such as vinyl or fiber cement siding & drywall inside H/180

DEFLECTION DISCUSSION
Walking on a floor or slamming a door hard does not generate the live load assumed in deflection tables. In fact, the load
created by walking on a floor or slamming a door may be greater than the design live load at the point where the load
is applied. Thus, even a floor that feels “spongy” or a wall that shakes often may not exceed the maximum deflection
allowed. If a “spongy” floor or a shaky wall is not causing other problems, such as cracking drywall or plaster, then it is
probably not exceeding the maximum allowed deflection and should be of little concern.

Note that the maximum deflection allowed by general codes does not apply to some rigid floor coverings, such as tile.
Refer to the manufacturer’s design and installation instructions when installing stiff finish materials. The manufacturer
may stipulate a maximum deflection that’s below the amount allowed by codes.

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 Foundations
Soil Load-Bearing Capacities soils or if the soil-bearing capacity is unknown.
1. Place structural footings on undisturbed soil of Beware of clay soils. Some clay soils are unstable
known bearing capacity or on a bed of fill material and can cause serious foundation problems.
approved by an engineer.
3. Use the following table to estimate soil-bearing
2. Have a geotechnical engineer evaluate the soil in capacity if the soil type is known and if the local
areas known to have expansive or other unfavorable building official approves.

TABLE 2: SOIL LOAD-BEARING CAPACITIES

SOIL TYPE PRESUMED SOIL BEARING CAPACITY
Bedrock (e.g., granite) 12,000 psi
Sedimentary-type rock 4,000 psi
Gravel & sandy gravel 3,000 psi
Sand, silty sand, clayey sand, silty gravel, clayey gravel 2,000 psi
Clay, sandy clay, silty clay, clayey silt, silt, sandy silt 1,500 psi

Common Soil Types

Gravel and sandy gravel soils have a Sandy soils have a presumed 2,000 psi Clay and silt soils have a presumed
presumed 3,000 psi load-bearing capacity. load-bearing capacity. 1,500 psi load-bearing capacity.

48 CODES FOR HOMEOWNERS

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 Footing Width & Depth
Footing Width 3. Locate the bottom of footings at least 12 inches
1. Use the tables in general codes to determine the below finish grade or below the local frost line,
minimum footing width and depth required to whichever is deeper. This does not apply to
support load-bearing walls. You may also use accessory buildings with an area 600 square feet
material found in The American Concrete Institute or less and an eave height of 10 feet or less, and
document ACI 332 (see Resources, page 234). this does not apply to decks not supported by
the home.
2. Refer to general codes for special footing and
footing reinforcement requirements in seismic 4. Do not place footings on frozen ground unless the
design areas. frozen condition is permanent (permafrost).

Footing Thickness & Slope 5. Make the top surface of footings level.
1. Make spread footings at least 6 inches thick.
6. You may slope the bottom of footings not
2. Project spread footings at least 2 inches beyond the more than 10 percent, without reducing the
foundation wall. Do not project the footing beyond minimum thickness.
the foundation wall more than the thickness of the
footing. Example: if the footing is 6 inches thick, 7. Make step footing thickness at least 6 inches. Make
then the edge of the footing should be not more than step footing height not more than the length of the
6 inches beyond the edge of the foundation wall. footing above the step.

Leveling footing forms is very important. Measure footing depth and width at the top of the forms. Here, batterboards and strings
are used to level footing forms.

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 B

Illo 73
CG_Codes
07-20-2009
Illo 73
Spread footing for basement or crawlspace (A), interior load-bearing wall footing (B), or step footing (C).
CG_Codes
07-20-2009

Specifications for Foundation Concrete

Concrete in Basement Slabs & Interior 2. Use at least 3,000 psi air-entrained concrete
Slabs-on-Grade (Not Garage Floors) (between 5 and 7 percent total air content) in
1. Use at least 2,500 psi concrete in all weathering moderate weathering potential environments.
potential environments.
3. Use at least 3,500 psi air-entrained concrete
2. Use air-entrained concrete (between 5 and 7 percent (between 5 and 7 percent total air content) in
total air content) in severe weathering potential severe weathering potential environments.
environments if the concrete may be subject to
freezing and thawing during construction. 4. You may use at least 4,000 psi air-entrained
concrete with at least 3 percent total air content
in steel-troweled garage floors in moderate and
Concrete in Foundation Walls, Exterior
severe weathering potential environments.
Walls & Other Vertical Concrete
Illo 73
Exposed to Weather
1. Use at least 2,500 psi concrete in environments
CG_Codes
with negligible weathering potential.
07-20-2009
2. Use at least 3,000 psi air-entrained concrete
(between 5 and 7 percent total air content)
in moderate and severe weathering
potential environments.

Concrete in Porches, Garage & Carport

Floors & Other Horizontal Concrete
Exposed to Weather Confirm with the concrete provider that the product you’ve
1. Use at least 2,500 psi concrete in environments ordered meets specs for your area, and be sure to have your
with negligible weathering potential. forms inspected and approved well in advance of the delivery.

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 Foundation Anchors 5. Install at least two bolts per plate section.
1. Install at least ½-inch-diameter bolts in exterior
footings, stem walls, basement walls, interior 6. Embed the bolts at least 7 inches into the foundation.
braced walls, monolithic slabs, and other places
to which sill or sole plates for load-bearing and 7. Use approved fasteners to anchor the sole plates of
braced walls will be attached. interior load-bearing walls that are not braced walls.

2. Install and tighten a nut and washer on each bolt. 8. You may substitute anchor straps for bolts if they
Verify washer size with your local building official. provide equal anchorage. Place straps in the same
locations as bolts, or per strap manufacturer’s
3. Locate the bolts at least seven bolt diameters and instructions.
not more than 12 inches from the ends of each
plate and not more than every 6 feet on center 9. Refer to general codes for foundation anchor
in between. exceptions involving braced walls 24 inches
long and shorter. These walls may require 1 or 0
4. Locate bolts in the middle third of the plate. foundation anchors.

Anchor strap
(attach to foundation)

Anchor bolts

Install ½"-diameter anchor bolts every 6', not more than 12" You may substitute anchor straps for anchor bolts.
from the end of each bottom plate, and in the middle 1⁄3 of
the plate.

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 Crawlspaces
Crawlspace Ventilated to Exterior 5. There is considerable controversy about the
1. Provide at least 1 square foot of net free effectiveness of crawlspace ventilation, particularly
ventilation area for every 150 square feet of in warm, humid climates. Check with a qualified
crawlspace floor in a ventilated crawlspace. energy efficiency professional before adding
You may reduce the net free ventilation area insulation between floor joists in crawlspaces.
to at least 1 square foot for every 1,500 square Check the condition of existing floor joist
feet of crawlspace floor if you cover the insulation in crawlspaces at least annually.
floor with a vapor retarder, such as 6-mil
polyethylene sheeting. Unventilated Crawlspace
1. You may eliminate crawlspace ventilation
2. Install covers in the ventilation openings. Use openings by insulating the crawlspace walls or
screens, grates, grills, or plates with openings at floor system as required by general codes and by
least ⅛ inch and not more than ¼ inch. installing all the following moisture control and
ventilation components:
3. Subtract the space used by opening covers from
the net free ventilation area of a ventilation (a) Cover all exposed soil in the crawlspace floor
opening. Example: a 1-square-foot opening with an approved vapor retarder, such as 6-mil,
may be reduced to an effective ⅔-square- preferably thicker, polyethylene sheeting.
foot opening when covered by a cast iron
grill or grate. The cover manufacturer’s (b) Lap all vapor retarder seams by at least
instructions should indicate the cover’s opening 6 inches, and seal or tape the seams.
reduction amount.
(c) Extend the vapor retarder at least 6 inches up
4. Locate a ventilation opening not more than 3 feet the crawlspace wall, and attach and seal the vapor
from every corner of the crawlspace wall. retarder to the wall.

Unventilated crawlspaces
are recommended
by experts for
most crawlspaces.

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 (d) Provide one of the following for every 1,000 square feet of crawlspace
ventilation methods: floor area

• continuous mechanical exhaust ventilation 2. Do not connect the return air opening for the
building interior to a forced-air return duct. Use an
• a conditioned air supply at a rate of 1 cfm for every opening in the floor or use an unpressurized duct
50 square feet of crawl space floor area and provide between the crawl space and the building interior.
a return air opening to the building interior
3. There is some controversy about providing
• dehumidification designed to provide at conditioned air to a crawl space. Do not exceed the
least 70 pints of moisture removal per day 1 cfm conditioned air ventilation rate.

Ventilation Opening Locations

3' min.

3'

Provide 1 sq. ft. of ventilation for every 150 sq. ft. Min. 16 × 24" access
of crawlspace soil floor area or 1 sq. ft. for every 1,500 sq. ft.
of vapor-retarder-covered floor area.

Illo 78
CG_Codes
07-20-2009

Unventilated and insulated crawlspaces

often perform better than ventilated crawlspaces.

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 Decks

M ost decks are relatively simple structures, but

even a basic deck project must conform to
the requirements of building codes in your area. In
significantly, among jurisdictions. Your local building
inspector can provide you with a list of the relevant
deck codes and help you interpret them so you can
fact, virtually every aspect of your deck—from its create code-compliant plans for your deck project.
location on your property to the design you choose You may also want to download a free PDF copy of the
and the materials you buy to build it—must meet “DCA6-12 Prescriptive Residential Deck Construction
stringent guidelines for safety. Codes vary, sometimes Guide” (see Resources, page 234).

General Deck Building Guidelines

1. Use hot-dipped zinc-coated galvanized steel for all
fasteners (nails and screws) and hardware (joist
hangers and support post caps and bases). Stainless-
steel fasteners and hardware are recommended
when building decks near water, and are required for
decks located within 300 feet from saltwater.

2. Drill holes for bolts at least 1⁄32 inch and not more
than 1⁄16 inch larger than the bolt. Predrill holes for
½-inch-diameter and larger lag screws.

3. Use hot-dipped zinc-coated galvanized steel or

flexible flashing material when installing flashing
at the deck ledger. Be sure that the flexible flashing
Beam rests on shoulder is approved for exposure to sunlight. Do not use
aluminum flashing.

4. Use at least #2 grade preservative-treated lumber

Shoulder cut or #2 grade naturally durable lumber for deck
structural members. Lumber for deck structural
components should be rated for ground contact,
UC4A or better. You may use approved composite
materials for components, such as deck flooring
and railings. Read and follow manufacturer’s
instructions when using composite materials.

5. Field-treat cuts, holes, and notches in preservative-

treated wood with an approved preservative, such
as copper napthenate.
Meet or exceed all lumber size codes. For example, use
lumber that is at least 4 × 4" posts for decks up to 8' above
the footing and 6 × 6" posts for decks up to 14' above
6. Consult with the building inspector or a qualified
the footing. engineer when building decks in seismic and high
wind zones, in areas with heavy snowfall, and when
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 Deck Ledger Attachment to the Home window or a framed chimney. Do not support
1. Install a preservative-treated #2 grade or better the band or rim joist on veneer, such as masonry
Southern Pine or Hem Fir deck ledger board that’s and stone.
at least a 2 × 8 in size.
6. You may use other methods and materials
2. Secure the deck ledger to one of the following when the details are designed by a qualified
band or rim joists: (a) 2-inch-thick (1½-inch structural engineer.
actual thickness) SPF sawn lumber, (b) 1 inch
minimum thickness by 9½ inches deep Douglas fir 7. You may make a deck entirely self‐supporting as an
laminated veneer lumber, or (c) another approved alternative to attaching the deck to the home.
engineered material.
Joist hangers screwed or bolted into rim joist
per manufacturer's instructions
3. Secure the band or rim joist to sawn lumber joists
or wood I-joists that are perpendicular to the band Rim Double
joist header Ledger
or rim joist.

4. Use hold-down tension devices to provide

lateral load connections. You may use one of the
following methods. >3'

(a) Install two 1,500 pound hold-down

tension devices according to the device
manufacturer’s instructions.

(b) Install four 750 pound hold-down

tension devices according to the device <6'
manufacturer’s instructions.
Double trimmers OK if joist spacing 24" o.c.
5. Support the band or rim joist directly on the or if trimmer length < 8½'
foundation or on a wall supported directly on
the foundation. Do not support the band or rim Hang a double joist between joists to support the deck in
joist using a cantilevered structure, such as a bay areas where obstructions won’t allow a ledger.

Do not attach the ledger directly to siding or other wall Lateral load connector hardware should be attached to
coverings. Remove all wall coverings in the installation area the deck joists and house rim joist to minimize lateral
so you can attach the ledger to the wall framing members. sway. A Simpson Strong-Tie DTT1 connector is seen here.
Cut the siding with a circular saw, and finish the corners Photo courtesy Simpson Strong-Tie
with a chisel. Do not attach the ledger to brick or stone wall
coverings. A self-supporting deck may be necessary.

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 Deck Ledger Attachment
Using Screws or Bolts
1. Install the screws or bolts in the deck ledger board
and in the band joist or rim board according to
Table 5A. Stagger the screws or bolts vertically
along the length of the deck ledger board.

2. Install at least ½-inch hot-dipped galvanized lag

screws or machine bolts (not carriage bolts) as
specified in Table 3B.

NOTE: there are proprietary screws that are

thinner than ½ inch and are approved for attaching
deck ledgers to the home. Read and follow the
manufacturer's instructions if you use these screws. Install staggered fasteners on the ledger board using spacing
specified in Table 3B.

3. Install a washer on each end of the machine bolts

and a washer on the head end of the lag screws. 2. Place the bottom of footings for deck support
posts that are within 5 feet from the house at the
4. Make the distance between the interior face of same level as the house footings.
the ledger board and the exterior face of the band
board (rim joist) not more than 1 inch. 3. Refer to DCA-6 or local codes for footing size
and thickness.
5. Use lag screws that are long enough to penetrate
the band or rim board but not long enough to 4. Space footings as required for beam support. See
penetrate through the interior wall. the DECK BEAMS section on page 58.

Deck Footings Deck Joists

1. Place the bottom of footings for deck support 1. Use the correct size joist hanger to attach joists to
posts below the local frost line. You do not need to ledgers and beams.
place deck footings below the frost line if the deck
is not attached to the home (but it is best practice 2. Fasten joist hangers using the size and type
to do so anyway). of fastener specified by the joist hanger

TABLE 3A: LOCATION OF LAG SCREWS & BOLTS IN BAND JOISTS & DECK LEDGER BOARDS
TOP EDGE BOTTOM EDGE ENDS ROW SPACING
LEDGER ≥ 2" ≥ ¾" ≥ 2" & ≤ 5" ≥ 15⁄8" & ≤ 5"
DIMENSION LUMBER BAND JOIST ≥ ¾" ≥ 2" ≥ 2" & ≤ 5" ≥ 15⁄8" & ≤ 5"

TABLE 3B: DECK LEDGER ATTACHMENT USING SCREWS OR BOLTS

JOIST SPAN ≤ 6' > 6' > 8' > 10' > 12' > 14' > 14'
& ≤ 8' & ≤ 10' & ≤ 12' & ≤ 14' & ≤ 16' & ≤ 18'
FASTENER SPACING O.C.
½" lag screw with ≤ ½" sheathing 30" 23" 18" 15" 13" 11" 10"
½" lag bolt with ≤ ½" sheathing 36" 36" 34" 29" 24" 21" 19"
½" lag bolt with ≤ 1" sheathing 36" 36" 29" 24" 21" 18" 16"
or ≤ ½" sheathing & ≤ ½" stacked washers

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 manufacturer. In general, place a fastener in every supported by the house. Best practice is to use
round and oblong hole. hurricane clips to fasten all joists to a beam.

3. Support joists on a joist hanger (the joist should be 5. Secure the rim joist to the deck floor joists using
fully seated in the hanger), on at least 1½ inches of at least three 10d nails or three #10 × 3-inch
wood, or on at least 3 inches of concrete or masonry. wood screws.

4. You may use three 8d nails to fasten joists that 6. Use Table 3C or local codes to determine the
bear on top of a beam to the beam if the deck is correct joist span and on center spacing.

Measuring Deck Joist Span

DECK JOIST SPAN (L) OPTIONAL

CANTILEVER,
TYPICAL DECK JOIST SPAN, ON CENTER SPACING, MAXIMUM SPAN
SOUTHERN PINE DEPENDS ON JOIST
SIZE, SPECIES,
2 × 6 @ 12" 9' 11" @16" 9' 0" @24" 7' 7" & SPACING
SPAN LIMITED TO
2 × 8 @12" 13' 1" @16" 11' 10" @24" 9' 8" LESSER OF L/4
OR TABLE VALUE
2 × 10 @12" 16' 2" @16" 14' 0" @24" 11' 5"

Toenail two 8d nails

on one side and one
8d nail on other side

Epoxy
Joist

Rim
Hurricane clip joist

Ledger

Concrete or grout

You may toenail joists to a beam only if Rim joist connections. Attach rim joists Ledgers and block walls. When
the deck is attached to the house. Best to the end of each joist with three fastening ledgers to hollow concrete
practice is to secure joists to the beam #10 × 3" minimum wood screws. block walls, the block cells in the
using a hurricane clip. Secure decking to the top of rim joists ledger attachment areas must be
with two #10 × 3" wood screws in each filled with concrete or grout. Secure
piece of decking to attach the decking the attachment bolts to the wall with
to each joist. approved epoxy anchors with washers.

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 TABLE 3C: DECK FLOOR JOIST ON CENTER SPACING
SPECIES#2 GRADE JOIST SIZE DECK JOIST SPACING, NO CANTILEVER (INCHES) MAXIMUM CANTILEVER (INCHES)
12 16 24 12 16 24
2 × 6 9-11 9-0 7-7 1-3 1-4 1-6
Southern Pine 2 × 8 13-1 11-10 9-8 2-1 2-3 2-5
2 × 10 16-2 14-0 11-5 3-4 3-6 2-10
2 × 6 8-10 8-0 7-0 1-0 1-1 1-2
Redwood Western Cedar 2 × 8 11-8 10-7 8-8 1-8 1-10 2-0
2 × 10 14-11 13-0 10-7 2-8 2-10 2-8

TABLE 3D: DECK SUPPORT POST ON CENTER SPACING

SPECIES #2 GRADE BEAM SIZE DECK JOIST SPAN LESS THAN OR EQUAL TO (FEET)
6 8 10 12 14 16
2-2 × 8 8-9 7-7 6-9 6-2 5-9 5-4
2-2 × 10 10-4 9-0 8-0 7-4 6-9 6-4
2-2 × 12 12-2 10-7 9-5 8-7 8-0 7-6
Southern Pine
3-2 × 8 10-10 9-6 8-6 7-9 7-2 6-8
3-2 × 10 13-0 11-3 10-0 9-2 8-6 7-11
3-2 × 12 15-3 13-3 11-10 10-9 10-0 9-4
2-2 × 8 6-10 5-11 5-4 4-10 4-6 4-1
2-2 × 10 8-4 7-3 6-6 5-11 5-6 5-1
2-2 × 12 9-8 8-5 7-6 6-10 6-4 5-11
Redwood Western Cedar
3-2 × 8 9-8 8-6 7-7 6-11 6-5 6-0
3-2 × 10 12-0 10-5 9-4 8-6 7-10 7-4
3-2 × 12 13-11 12-1 10-9 9-10 9-1 8-6

Deck Beams
1. Fasten beam members to each other using two
staggered rows of at least 10d nails spaced not
more than 16 inches on center.

2. Place splices between beam members above

deck posts.

3. Use Table 3D or local codes to determine the

correct beam span and on-center post spacing.

Deck Posts
1. You may use preservative-treated 4 × 4 wood posts
for decks up to 8 feet tall and 6 × 6 posts for decks
up to 14 feet tall. Measure post height from the top
of the footing to the bottom of the beam.
Fasten beam members using two staggered rows of 10d nails
2. Consult with the building official or an engineer at 16" on center. Fasten 3-member beams from both sides of
about wood deck support posts taller than 14 feet the beam.

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 and about support posts that Joists may not be attached to posts with
are not preservative-treated through bolts, even when mortises are
cut into the posts to house the joists.
wood, such as steel posts.

3. Secure the post to the footing.

You may embed the post in
the footing; however, this is
not recommended because
the post may deteriorate over
time. Best practice is to use a
post base.

4. Secure the post to the beam

as described in the photo
caption (right).

Deck Flashing
1. Install flashing between the
deck ledger and the house
when the deck is attached to
the house. Proper flashing is One way to attach a beam to a 6 × 6
post is to notch the post and secure the
essential. A common cause
beam using ½"-diameter galvanized
of deck collapse is the deck steel machine bolts and washers. Or,
pulling away from rotted wood you can mount beams on top of posts
caused by improper flashing. with galvanized post cap hardware.

Best Practice for Installing Deck Flashing

WATER-RESISTIVE BARRIER

SHEATHING
WALL COVERING

DECKING

L FLASHING

WASHERS FOR < ½" DRAINAGE

SPACE (OPTIONAL)

WATER-RESISTIVE
MEMBRANE FLASHING

DECK LEDGER
HOUSE RIM JOIST

WATER-RESISTIVE BARRIER

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 Deck Stairs Recommendations
1. Use 2 × 12 #2 or better Southern Pine or equivalent
lumber for deck stair stringers.

2. Leave at least 5 inches of uncut wood when cutting

the stair risers and treads into the stringers. Do not
cut the stringer past the riser and tread.

3. Do not exceed 6 feet of unsupported length for

deck stair stringers where the risers and treads are
cut into the stringer (cut stringers).

4. Do not exceed 13 feet, 3 inches of unsupported

length for deck stair stringers where the risers and
treads are not cut into the stringer (solid stringers).

5. Measure stringer length horizontally. You may

support long stringers near the center to reduce
the unsupported length.
Deck flooring made from composite materials may
last longer and require less maintenance than wood 6. Provide a solid landing, such as concrete, at the
flooring. Install composite materials according to the bottom of deck stairs. Support the stringers on the
manufacturer’s instructions.
landing or by appropriate footings.

Deck Flooring 7. Support the entire stringer plumb cut at the

1. You may use 2-inch-thick (nominal) wood, top landing on the deck rim board or by other
1¼-inch-thick wood (5/4 board), or other listed approved means.
deck flooring (wood composites, metal) material
as deck flooring. 8. Attach the stringers to the top landing support
using hangers or brackets. Do not rely only on nails
2. Do not install 2-inch-thick flooring across joists or screws to attach stringers to supports.
that are more than 24 inches on center when the
flooring is perpendicular to the joist or more than 9. Do not exceed 18 inches of unsupported length for
16 inches on center when the flooring is diagonal deck stair treads using 2 × 4 or 5/4 Southern Pine.
(maximum 45 degrees) to the joist. Refer to DCA-6 for maximum stair tread lengths
for other lumber sizes and species. Install treads
3. Do not install 1¼-inch-thick flooring across joists made from composite materials according to
that are more than 16 inches on center when the manufacturer’s instructions.
flooring is perpendicular to the joist or more than
12 inches on center when the flooring is diagonal Deck Guards & Handrails (Recommended)
(maximum 45 degrees) to the joist. 1. Refer to the guards and handrails section of this
book for general guidelines about installing guards
4. Install two 8d threaded nails or two #8 × 3-inch and handrails for decks. The guidelines for interior
wood screws per floorboard in each joist. guards and handrails apply to exterior guards and
handrails too (see page 28).
5. Install flooring across at least 4 joists.
2. Space deck guard 4 × 4 support posts at least
6. Leave about ⅛ inch between flooring boards, every 6 feet. This also applies to stair guards
including at the ends, to allow for drainage and and handrails.
for expansion.
3. Secure the deck guard support posts to deck floor
7. Install other listed deck flooring material joists using at least ½-inch-diameter bolts and
according to manufacturer’s instructions. attachment hardware. Do not rely only on the

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 Cut stringers (top) should be supported every 6'. Solid Attach stringers to support using a hanger, not just nails.
stringers (bottom) should be supported every 13' to 3".

deck band and rim boards to secure deck guard 4. Secure the braces using at least ⅜-inch-diameter
support posts. bolts with washers on both ends.

4. Refer to DCA-6 or attachment hardware 5. Secure the brace at least 2 feet away from the
manufacturer’s instructions for information about support post.
attaching deck guard support posts if the posts do
not line up with deck floor joists.

Deck Bracing Recommendations

1. Install bracing between the deck support posts
and the deck beam on all decks that are more than 2' min. Joist
2 feet above the ground.

2. Install bracing between the deck support posts

and a deck rim board, floor joist, or blocking
on free-standing decks that are more than
2 feet aboveground.

3. Use 2 × 4 or larger lumber for the brace. Post

Brace

Deck guard support posts should be secured using attachment Bracing is recommended to reduce movement that can
hardware for long-term strength. weaken the deck and cause it to collapse.

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 Floor Systems
Floor Joist Span Tables (Selected) 3. Use L/360 deflection (length of joist span in inches
1. Use 30 psf live load and 10 psf dead load for divided by 360) for all floor joists.
joists under bedrooms and in attics with access
by permanent stairs, in most cases. Permanent 4. Refer to the IRC or to the AF&PA Span Tables for
stairs do not include pull-down folding Joists and Rafters to find joist spans not contained
attic ladders. in the following tables.

2. Use 40 psf live load and 10 psf dead load 5. Apply the following tables to floor systems framed
for joists under living areas, other than with nominal 2-inch-wide dimensional lumber,
bedrooms, and under decks, and balconies, such as 2 × 10. An engineer must design floor
in most cases. truss and I-Joist systems.

Floor joists must

conform to minimum
span rating codes
according to how
long they are, how
far apart they are
spaced, and the
type and grade of
wood from which they
are made.

TABLE 4: BEDROOM FLOOR JOIST SPANS AT 16" ON CENTER

SPECIES GRADE 2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 2 × 12 FEET-INCHES
Douglas fir 2 14-2 17-5 20-3
Hem fir 2 13-2 16-10 19-8
Southern pine 2 13-3 15-8 18-6
Spruce-pine-fir 2 13-6 17-2 19-11

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 Install floor system
framing members
06-15-2009
CG_Codes
Illo 87

according to this
Double
illustration. The
headers
provisions in this
section refer to floor
system framing using
nominal 2"-thick
Bridging
dimensional lumber.
Follow engineering
Double instructions when
trimmers using floor truss and
I-joist systems.
Central
beam

Rim joist

TABLE 5: BEDROOM FLOOR JOIST SPANS AT 24" ON CENTER

SPECIES GRADE 2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 2 × 12 FEET-INCHES
Douglas fir 2 11-8 14-3 16-6
Hem fir 2 11-4 13-10 16-1
Southern pine 2 10-10 12-10 15-1
Spruce-pine-fir 2 11-6 14-1 16-3

TABLE 6: LIVING AREA FLOOR JOIST SPANS AT 16" ON CENTER

SPECIES GRADE 2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 2 × 12 FEET-INCHES
Douglas fir 2 12-9 15-7 18-1
Hem fir 2 12-0 15-2 17-7
Southern pine 2 11-10 14-0 16-6
Spruce-pine-fir 2 12-3 15-5 17-10

TABLE 7: LIVING AREA FLOOR JOIST SPANS AT 24" ON CENTER

SPECIES GRADE 2 × 8 FEET-INCHES 2 × 10 FEET-INCHES 2 × 12 FEET-INCHES
Douglas fir 2 10-5 12-9 14-9
Hem fir 2 10-2 12-5 14-4
Southern pine 2 9-8 11-5 13-6
Spruce-pine-fir 2 10-3 12-7 14-7

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 Floor Joists Under Load-Bearing Walls
1. Install additional floor joists under load-bearing
New load-bearing
walls that run parallel with the floor joists. Ensure wall sole plate Subfloor
that the number of joists is sufficient to support
the load imposed by the wall and the loads
supported by the wall. Parallel floor joists run
the same direction as the wall being supported.
Example: install at least two floor joists under a Original joist
wall supporting a roof and at least three floor joists
under a wall supporting a full story and a roof.

2. You may separate the additional joists under New joists

a load-bearing wall, if necessary, to fit pipes,
vents, or ducts. Install solid 2-inch-thick blocking
at least every 4 feet along the full depth of the
separated joists.

3. Place load-bearing walls that run perpendicular

to the floor joists not more than one joist depth
from the supporting wall or beam below unless Place additional joists under load-bearing walls running
the joists are sized to carry the load. Perpendicular parallel to the joists.
joists run at a 90-degree angle to the wall being
supported. Example: place a load-bearing wall 2. Place at least 3 inches of a floor joist, header,
that runs perpendicular to 2 × 10 floor joists not girder, or beam on the supporting masonry or
more than 10 inches from the supporting wall or concrete wall. Comply with this requirement when
beam below. the member bears directly on the masonry or
concrete wall, not on a sill plate that bears on the
Header, Girder & Floor Joist wall. This requirement usually applies to beams
Bearing on Supports and girders.
1. Place at least 1½ inches of a floor joist, header,
girder, or beam on the supporting wood or metal 3. You may support floor joists on at least a 1 × 4
wall. Supporting wood includes a sill plate bearing ledger if the ledger is attached to each stud and if
on a masonry or concrete wall. the joist is attached to a stud.

Load-bearing
wall

1½" min.
3" min.
Joist depth max.

Beam

Place load-bearing walls running Place at least 1½" of wood on the Place at least 3" of wood on supporting
perpendicular to the joists not more supporting wood. concrete or masonry.
than one joist depth away from the
supporting wall or beam.

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 Floor Joist Lap at Supports
1. Lap floor joists from opposite sides that meet
over a bearing support at least 3 inches at the
3" min. support, and nail the joists at the lap using at
least three 10d nails. You may substitute a wood
or metal splice of equal or greater strength for the
nailed lap.

Floor Joist Attachment to Beams

1. Use an approved joist hanger or at least a 2 × 2
wood ledger to support floor joists that connect to
a beam or girder.
Lap joists that meet over supports with at least 3" overlap.
Reinforce the lap joint with at least three 10d nails. Floor Joist Blocking
1. Install full-depth solid blocking that’s at least
2 inches thick at both ends of floor joists. Or,
attach the joists to a header, band, or rim joist or to
an adjoining stud. This helps reduce joist twisting.

2. Install blocking at all intermediate load-bearing

supports in seismic design areas.
Band board
Joists

Attaching the ends of the floor joists to a band board is a

common way to keep joists from twisting.

Beam

Joist

Double beam

2 × 2 min.

Joist hanger

Floor joist

Attach floor joists to beams using metal joist hanger hardware. Attach floor joists to beams using a 2 × 2 or larger ledger
for support.

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 Floor Joist Bridging
1. Install bridging at intervals not more than every
8 feet of floor joist length on floor joists deeper
than 2 × 12. A B C

2. You may use solid, full-depth blocking, wood or

metal diagonal bridging, or other means to provide
required floor joist bridging. Some code officials
require bridging on all floor joists regardless of
what the code stipulates.

BRIDGING

Options for floor bridging include: Full depth lumber bridging

(A); metal X bridging (B); wood X bridging (C).

FLOOR JOIST OPENINGS

Framed openings in floor joists are used mostly for
Metal bridging (left) can be secured with joist hanger stairways between floors and for chimneys. The
nails. For wood X-bridging, drive 10d common nails to header joists distribute the load of the tail joists to the
secure the board ends to the floor joists. trimmer joists.

Floor Joist Openings Floor Joist Openings

Not More than 4 Feet Wide More than 4 Feet Wide
1. Install double trimmer joists on both sides of 1. Install double trimmer joists and double header
header joists. You may use a single trimmer joist on joists if the header joist span is more than
both sides of the header joists if the header is not 4 feet wide.
more than 3 feet from the trimmer bearing point.
2. Install approved joist hangers to connect header
2. You may use a single header joist if the header joist joists to trimmer joists if the header joist span is
span is not more than 4 feet wide. more than 6 feet wide.

3. Install approved joist hangers or a 2 × 2 ledger strip 3. Install approved joist hangers or a 2 × 2 ledger
to connect tail joists to header joists and header strip to connect tail joists to header joists if the tail
joists to trimmer joists. joists are more than 12 feet long.

Use double trimmer joists at most

openings. Use double header joists if
the opening is more than 4' wide.
4'

Double header
Double trimmer

Tail joists

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 Floor Sheathing
1. Install wood floor sheathing panels: (a) so floor covering can substitute for edge support in
that they continuously span at least two some cases.
framing members, (b) with the long dimension
perpendicular (90-degree angle) to supports, and 3. You may use wood floor sheathing panels (such as
(c) that are at least 24 inches wide. Panels less than 23
⁄32-inch and ¾-inch nominal thickness plywood or
24 inches wide can deflect or fail under load. OSB and ¾-inch sanded plywood) as a combination
subfloor and underlayment. Install combination
2. Support wood floor sheathing panel edges with subflooring as described in #1 above. Be aware that
solid blocking, tongue-and-groove edges, or other while combination subflooring panels comply with
approved means. An additional underlayment the IRC, they may not comply with manufacturer’s
layer that is at least ¼ inch or ¾-inch wood installation for some floor coverings, such as tile.

Floor sheathing

Tongue
Groove Blocking
Joist

Support edges of floor sheathing with tongue-and-groove edges. Support edges of floor sheathing with solid blocking.

HOW TO READ THE LABEL ON PLYWOOD AND OSB

A plywood or OSB panel label contains much
information. Here is the most important information
you need to know when buying these products.

• Exposure 1 (A): Exposure 1 means the panel

can withstand some exposure to weather during
construction but is not designed for long-term
weather exposure; Exterior means the panel is
designed for long-term weather exposure.

• Number before slash (B): maximum on-center B C

support span when used as roof sheathing;
edge support may be required to achieve the
rated span. A

• Number after slash (C): maximum on-center

support span when used as floor sheathing;
on panels with one number, the number is the
floor sheathing span.

• Performance category (D): use this when

D
referencing the panel's thickness in the IRC.

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 Draftstopping
Draftstopping helps limit the spread of fires in floor
framing and in floor/ceiling assemblies. It is most
often required when using open web floor trusses
and when a ceiling is suspended under a floor. Do not
confuse draftstopping with fireblocking. Fireblocking
occurs in wall assemblies. Draftstop

Installing Draftstopping
1. Install draftstopping when usable space exists
both above and below the floor/ceiling assembly
and when the open area within the concealed
floor/ceiling assembly exceeds 1,000 square feet.

2. Use at least ½-inch drywall, ⅜-inch wood

structural panels (plywood or OSB), or other
approved material.
Some floor trusses require draftstopping to prevent horizontal
air movement that can conduct fire. Solid wood floor joist
3. Divide the space to be draftstopped into areas that systems typically do not, because they are naturally closed
are approximately equal. off. Install a draftstop in web floor trusses when there is
usable space above and below and when the concealed area
4. Install the draftstopping material parallel with is more than 1,000 sq. ft. Drywall and wood structural panels
the framing. may be used for draftstops.

5. Repair draftstopping that is damaged or bottom side of floor systems in basements and
penetrated by pipes, ducts, or other materials. in crawlspaces containing fuel-fired or electric-
powered heating appliances. This provision does
Fire Protection of Floor Framing not apply if the floor system is built using 2 × 10
1. Install at least ½-inch-thick drywall or or larger dimensional lumber; it will usually apply
⅝-inch-thick wood structural panels on the only to floor systems built using wood I-joists.

NOTCHES & HOLES IN I-JOISTS TRUSSES

Notch, bore, splice, or alter wood I-joists,
trusses, or engineered wood members
only according to manufacturer’s
instructions and with written approval. B

Altering the top and bottom flange of

I-joists is usually not allowed. Hole C
boring is usually allowed in the middle
third of the span and is restricted near
the I-joist ends.
A
Cutting the ends of engineered
wood beams and I-joists to length
is usually permitted.

Beam types: Laminated beam (A); web-

type truss, metal plate connected (B);
I-joist (C).

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 Notches & Holes in Joists & Rafters
Boring & Notching Definitions the member not deeper than one fourth the depth
A bore is a hole drilled in a stud or joist. Use the actual of the member. Example: notch a 2 × 10 joist not
dimensions to determine the depth of framing lumber deeper than 1½ inches, except at the ends, where
and when calculating the maximum hole diameter. you may notch not deeper than 25⁄16 inches.
A notch is a piece cut from the smaller dimension
of framing lumber, such as a stud or joist. Use the 2. You may notch solid lumber rafters, floor and
actual dimensions to determine the depth of framing ceiling joists, and beams not longer than one-third
lumber and when calculating the maximum notch the depth of the member. Example: notch the top or
depth. Actual dimensions are the dimensions of bottom of a 2 × 10 joist not longer than 31⁄16 inches.
framing lumber after finishing at the mill. Example:
the nominal dimensions of a 2 × 6 are 2 inches by 3. You may notch solid lumber rafters, floor and
6 inches, and the actual dimensions, after finishing, ceiling joists, and beams only within the outer one-
are about 1½ inches by 5½ inches. third of the span. Example: notch a 10-foot-long
joist only within 40 inches from each end.
Wood Joist Notching & Boring
1. You may notch solid lumber rafters, floor and 4. You may notch the tension side (bottom) of solid
ceiling joists, and beams not deeper than 1⁄6 the lumber rafters, floor and ceiling joists, and beams
depth of the member. You may notch the ends of more than 4 inches thick only at the ends.

5. You may drill holes in solid lumber rafters, floor

and ceiling joists, and beams with a diameter not
Min. 2" more than ⅓ of the depth of the member. Example:
drill a hole with a diameter not more than
Joist 3⅛ inches in a 2 × 10 joist.

6. Locate holes at least 2 inches from the edge of

Max. dia. 1⁄3 depth the member and at least 2 inches from any other
hole or notch.
Max. depth 1⁄6 joist depth
7. Use actual joist depths, not nominal joist depths.
Drill holes not more than ⁄3 of the member depth and cut
1 Example: use 9¼ inches for a 2 × 10 joist, not the
member notches not deeper than 1⁄6 of the member depth. nominal depth of 10 inches.

Max. diameter
1
⁄3 joist depth
Max. length 1⁄3 joist depth

2" min.

Notch wood joists and rafters not longer than 1⁄3 of the depth Drill holes in wood joists and rafters not larger than 1⁄3 the
and only in the outer 1⁄3 of the member. depth and at least 2" from the edge of the member.

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 Wall Systems

W hether they are interior or exterior, load-bearing

or nonload-bearing, made from wood studs or
metal, walls must meet very specific construction
standards to ensure that they do not impede the
structural integrity of a house and do their part to
prevent fires from spreading within wall cavities.
Nevertheless, be aware that designing and building
load-bearing walls is a closely regulated process. In
most cases, you would be well advised to consult a
structural engineer to make sure that the lumber
sizes and spacing conform to code standards and
that any beams are appropriately sized, properly Even nonload-bearing walls must conform to
supported, and made from qualifying materials. construction codes.

WOOD NAILING DEFINITIONS

Using the proper size and type of nail and installing the Toenailing: A toenail is driven at an angle through the
nail where required is critical to the structural integrity of edge of the member. Toenailing usually occurs when one
a building. Analysis of building failures frequently shows member is already attached in place, such as when a stud
that failures result from improper nailing. The following are is toenailed to a sill plate that is already attached.
definitions of nailing methods and installation requirements
contained in the IRC.

Edge spacing: Edge spacing means installing a nail every

B
indicated number of inches around the perimeter of
a wood structural panel. If blocking is required by the
IRC, then edge spacing includes nailing the panel to
the blocking.

Endnailing: An endnail is driven straight into the end of the

member. An example of endnailing is attaching studs to sill
plates through the sill plate before the sill plate is attached
to the foundation or subfloor. C

Facenailing: A facenail is driven straight into the member,

often into the long dimension of the member. Examples of
facenailing include ceiling and floor joist laps over supports
and attaching wood panels to studs and joists.
A
Intermediate spacing: Intermediate spacing means
installing a nail every indicated number of inches at studs
or joists in the interior area of a wood structural panel.

O.C. means “on center.” Install nails every indicated

number of inches. Endnailing (A), toenailing (B), facenailing (C).

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 Wood Nailing Requirements
Wood Nailing General Wood Nailing
Installation Requirements to Framing Materials
1. Use nails that are at least as thick and long as 1. Use Tables 8, 9, and 10 to determine the
indicated in the following tables. Common nails and type of nail and nail spacing for attaching
box nails are thicker and longer than hand-driven wood framing materials to other wood
sinker nails and pneumatic-driven nails commonly framing materials in other than high wind
used in residential construction. You cannot directly and seismic design areas. Refer to the
substitute sinker and gun nails for common, box, general codes for fastener type, quantity,
or deformed shank nails. Substitution of sinker and and spacing in high wind and seismic
gun nails should be based on engineering analysis. design areas.

Install nails around

the edge of wood
panels and at
intermediate supports
at the required on-
center spacing.

TABLE 8: NAILING OSB & PLYWOOD SHEATHING TO FRAMING

PANEL THICKNESS NAIL TYPE EDGE SPACING INTERMEDIATE SPACING
3
⁄8 to ½" 6d common (2 × 0.113") subfloor & wall 8d common (2½ × 0.131") roof 6" o.c. 12" o.c.
19
⁄32 to 1" 8d common (2½ × 0.131") 6" o.c. 12" o.c.
1 ⁄8 to 1¼"
1
10d common (3 × 0.148") or 8d deformed (2½ × 0.120") 6" o.c. 12" o.c.

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 TABLE 9: NAILING ONE-PIECE SUBFLOOR TO FRAMING
PANEL THICKNESS NAIL TYPE EDGE SPACING INTERMEDIATE SPACING
¾" & less 6d deformed (2 × 0.120") or 8d common (2½ × 0.131") 6" o.c. 12" o.c.
7
⁄8 to 1" 8d common (2½ × 0.131") or 8d deformed (2½ × 0.120") 6" o.c. 12" o.c.
11⁄8 to 1¼" 10d common (3 × 0.148") or 8d deformed (2½ × 0.120") 6" o.c. 12" o.c.

TABLE 10: NAILING STRUCTURAL LUMBER

LUMBER DESCRIPTION, NAILING METHOD NUMBER/TYPE OF FASTENERS FASTENER SPACING

FLOOR NAILING

Joist to sill, girder, plate, toenail 3-8d common (2½" × 0.131") OR 3-3" × 0.131" (gun nail) --
Rim joist, band joist, or blocking to sill 8d common (2½" × 0.131") OR 3-3" × 0.131" (gun nail) 6" o.c.
or to top plate, toenail
Ledger supporting joists 3-16d common (3½" × 0.162") OR 4-3" × 0.131" (gun nail) under each joist
Built-up beams, 10d box (3" × 0.128") OR 3" × 0.131" (gun nail) AND 24" o.c. face nail stagger at top & bottom on
using 2"-thick lumber 3-10d box (3" × 0.128") OR 3-3" × 0.131" (gun nail) opposite sides face nail at ends & at splices
Band or rim joist to joist, end nail 3-16d common (3½" × 0.162") OR 4-3" × 0.131" (gun nail) --

Bridging or blocking to joist 2-8d common (2½" × 0.131") OR 2-3" × 0.131" (gun nail) Toenail each end

WALL NAILING
Sill or sole plate to joist, rim joist, or blocking 16d common (3½" × 0.162") 16" o.c. face nail
(not a braced wall) OR 3" × 0.131" (gun nail) 12" o.c. face nail
Sill or sole plate to joist, rim joist, or blocking 2-16d common (3½" × 0.162") 2 each 16" o.c. face nail
(at a braced wall) OR 4-3" × 0.131" (gun nail) 4 each 12" o.c. face nail
Stud to top or bottom plate, toenail 4-8d common (2½" × 0.131") OR 4-3" × 0.131" (gun nail) --

Stud to top or bottom plate, end nail 2-16d common (3½" × 0.162") OR 3-3" × 0.131" (gun nail) --

Stud to stud (not braced wall panel), face nail 16d common (3½" × 0.162") OR 3" × 0.131" (gun nail) 24" o.c., 16" o.c.

Stud to stud (at a braced wall panel), face nail 16d common (3½" × 0.162") OR 3" × 0.131" (gun nail) 12" o.c., 16" o.c.

Double top plate, face nail 16d common (3½" × 0.162") OR 3" × 0.131" (gun nail) 16" o.c., 12" o.c.
Double top plate splice 8-16d common (3½" × 0.162") Face nail on each side of end joint (min. 24"
OR 12-3" × 0.131" (gun nail) lap splice length on each side of end joint)
Top plates, laps at corners & intersections 2-16d common (3½" × 0.162") OR 3-3" × 0.131" (gun nail) --
Stud to stud & studs connecting 16d common (3½" × 0.162") 16" o.c.
at intersecting walls (at a braced wall panel) OR 3" × 0.131" (gun nail) 12" o.c.
Headers: 2-piece with 1⁄2" spacer 16d common (3½" × 0.162") 16" o.c. face nail --
Header to stud, toenail 5-8d box (2½" × 0.113") OR 4-8d common 2½" × 0.131" --

1" let-in brace to each stud & plate, face nail 3-8d box (2½" × 0.113") OR 2-8d common 2½" × 0.131" --

ROOF NAILING

Blocking between joists or rafters to top plate, toenail 3-8d common (2½" × 0.131") OR 3-3" × 0.131" (gun nail) --

Ceiling joist to plate, toenail 3-8d common (2½" × 0.131") OR 3-3" × 0.131" (gun nail) --
Collar tie to rafter and joist, face nail or 1 ⁄4"
1
3-10d common (3" × 0.148") --
by 20-gauge strap OR 4-3" × 0.131" (gun nail)
Rafter or truss to plate, toenail 3-16d box (3½" × 0.135") 2 toenails on one side and other nails on other
OR 4-3" × 0.131" (gun nail) side of rafter or truss
Rafters to ridge, valley, or hip rafters, toenail 4-16d (3½" × 0.135") OR 4-3" × 0.131" (gun nail) --

Rafters to ridge, valley, or hip rafters, end nail 3-16d (3½" × 0.135") OR 3-3" × 0.131" (gun nail) --

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 Wall Stud Size & Spacing
Wood Grades
Used in Wall Construction
1. Use Number 3, standard, or stud grade
wood for most load-bearing walls not
more than 10 feet tall. Do not use this
wood for load-bearing walls more than
10 feet tall. Use Number 2 grade or better
lumber for walls more than 10 feet tall.

2. You may use utility grade wood for

nonload-bearing walls.

3. Refer to general codes for more

information about other wall height and
stud spacing combinations.

4. Refer to general codes for wall height

and stud spacing requirements in high
wind, heavy snow load, and seismic
design areas.

Stud Size & Spacing

for Load-Bearing Walls
Not More than 10 Feet Tall
1. Use Table 11 to determine stud size and
spacing when the unsupported vertical
height of an exterior load-bearing wall is
not more than 10 feet. Measure vertical
height between points of horizontal
(lateral) support between studs. Vertical
wall height is usually measured between
the bottom of the sole or sill plate
and the bottom of the floor or ceiling.
Consult a qualified engineer before
measuring unsupported vertical wall Wall studs taller than 10' require No. 2 or better grade construction
height between points other than at lumber. Shorter walls may be built with cheaper No. 3 grade in
floor levels. most cases.

TABLE 11: STUD SIZE & SPACING FOR LOAD-BEARING WALLS

STUD SIZE MAXIMUM STUD SPACING MAXIMUM STUD SPACING MAXIMUM STUD SPACING
(INCHES) SUPPORTING ONLY ONE FLOOR, SUPPORTING ONE FLOOR SUPPORTING TWO FLOORS
OR SUPPORTING A CEILING & A CEILING & ROOF & A CEILING & ROOF
& ROOF WITH OR WITHOUT WITH OR WITHOUT WITH OR WITHOUT
A HABITABLE ATTIC A HABITABLE ATTIC A HABITABLE ATTIC
2×4 24" 16" Not allowed
2×6 24" 24" 16"

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 Walls supporting Walls supporting
roof only two floors & roof

Stud size and spacing depends on

Walls supporting what the studs are supporting.
one floor & roof

TABLE 12: STUD SIZE & SPACING FOR NONLOAD-BEARING WALLS

STUD SIZE MAXIMUM STUD HEIGHT MAXIMUM STUD SPACING

Illo 107 2×4

2×6
14'
20'
24"
24"

CG_Codes
Stud Size & Spacing
06-15-2009
for Nonload-Bearing Walls
1. Use Table 12 to determine stud size and bottom of the sole or sill plate and the bottom
spacing for nonload-bearing walls. Measure of the floor or ceiling. Consult a qualified
vertical height between points of horizontal engineer before measuring unsupported
(lateral) support between studs. Vertical vertical wall height between points other than
wall height is usually measured between the at floor levels.

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 Top & Bottom Plate Construction actual depth. These metal straps are sometimes
1. Use at least two 2-inch-deep (nominal) top plates called FHA straps. It is not necessary to install
that are at least as wide as the studs at the top a strap on both top plates for purposes of this
of load‐bearing walls. Examples: use two 2 × 4 section. You may need to install shield plate to
top plates on top of a 2 × 4 wall, and use 2 × 6 top protect plumbing pipes and electrical wires.
plates on top of 2 × 6 walls.
6. Extend the strap at least 6 inches beyond each side
2. Offset joints where two pieces of top plate meet by of the cut opening. Secure the strap with at least
at least 24 inches. You do not need to place a stud eight 16d nails on each side of the strap.
under a joint in a top plate unless the stud would
be placed there for other reasons. 7. Apply this strap requirement to top plates in
exterior and interior load-bearing walls.
3. Lap one top plate from one wall over the top plate
of an intersecting wall at the wall corners and at 8. You do not need to install the strap if wood
the intersection with load-bearing walls. structural panel sheathing covers the entire
side of the wall with the notched or cut top plates.
4. You may use a single top plate at the top of
nonload-bearing walls. 9. Use at least one 2-inch-deep (nominal) bottom
plate that is at least as wide as the studs. Note that
5. Install one galvanized metal strap at least some jurisdictions allow treated plywood to serve
0.054 inch thick (16 gauge) and 1½ inches wide on as the bottom plate for curved walls. Verify this
a top plate if it is cut more than 50 percent of its local exception with the building official.

Offset joints where two top plates meet

24" min. by at least 24". Nail the top plate on
each side of the splice as described in
Table 10.

Install a strap across one top plate

when it is notched more than half its
Deep notch width. Install another strap or a shield
plate when required to protect pipes
and electrical wires.

Shield plate Strap

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 Notches & Holes in Wall Studs
Boring & Notching Definitions
A bore is a hole drilled in a stud or joist. Use
the actual dimensions to determine the depth
of framing lumber and when calculating the
maximum hole diameter. Max. 25% of depth
A notch is a piece cut from the smaller
dimension of framing lumber, such as a stud or
joist. Use the actual dimensions to determine the
depth of framing lumber and when calculating the
maximum notch depth. Actual dimensions are Notch a load-bearing stud not more than 25 percent of its
the dimensions of framing lumber after finishing actual depth.
at the mill. Example: the nominal dimensions of
a 2 × 6 are 2 inches by 6 inches, and the actual
dimensions, after finishing, are about 1½ inches by
Max. 40% of depth
5½ inches.

Wood Stud Notching

1. Notch a load-bearing stud not more than
25 percent of its actual depth. Example: notch
a 2 × 6 load-bearing stud not more than
13⁄8 inches.
Drill a hole in a load-bearing stud not more than 40 percent of its
2. Notch a nonload-bearing stud not more than actual depth.
40 percent of its actual depth. Example: notch
a 2 × 6 nonload-bearing stud not more than
2¼ inches.

Wood Stud Boring

1. Bore a hole in a single load-bearing stud not
more than 40 percent of its actual depth.
Example: bore a 2 × 6 load-bearing stud not
more than 2¼ inches in diameter.

2. You may bore holes in load-bearing studs not

more than 60 percent of their actual depth if Double two load-bearing studs if the holes are not more than
60 percent of their actual depth.
you install a double stud and do not bore more
than two successive studs.

3. Bore a hole in a nonload-bearing stud not

more than 60 percent of its actual depth.
Example: bore a 2 × 6 nonload-bearing stud not
more than 3¼ inches in diameter.

4. Leave at least ⅝ inch of undisturbed wood

between the hole and the stud edge.

5. Do not place a hole and a notch in the same VIOLATION! Do not locate a notch and a hole in the same part of
horizontal section of the stud. the stud.

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 CRIPPLE WALL DEFINITION
Cripple Wall Framing A cripple wall is a framed wall that is less than one
story tall. Cripple walls often occur with basement
foundations that are stepped down to follow finished
Cripple Wall Requirements grade, and they may occur in split-level homes.
1. Install cripple walls using studs that are at least
the same width as the wall studs above.

2. Frame cripple walls more than 4 feet tall as though

they are full height walls. This means using the
stud sizes and framing requirements previously
described. Example: if full height wall studs on the
same floor level as the cripple wall are 2 × 6, use
2 × 6 studs for the cripple wall.

3. Brace cripple walls using the same bracing method

and length as the wall above, except multiply the
cripple wall brace length by 1.15. Example: if
the cripple wall is a 2-foot-tall basement wall
and the wall brace length for the first story wall
above is 3 feet, brace at least 3.45 feet (3 × 1.15) of Cripple walls may be load-bearing or nonload-bearing.
the cripple wall. This bearing version is used to bridge a gap between the
foundation wall and the first floor framing members. Anchor
4. Install sheathing that covers at least one full side cripple walls to the foundation, and brace as required.
of a cripple wall less than 14 inches tall. Fasten the
sheathing to both the top and bottom plates.
7. Anchor cripple walls to the foundation like other
5. Support cripple walls on a continuous foundation. framed walls.

6. You may substitute solid blocking for a framed and 8. Refer to the IRC for additional bracing
sheathed cripple wall less than 14 inches tall. requirements in seismic design areas.

Cripple walls are often combined

with egress window framing. The
cap plate on the block wall supports
the floor trusses for this addition.
The 2 × 6 construction allows the
project to meet minimum wall
insulation codes.

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 Wall Bracing
General codes present many methods and rules Wall Brace & Braced Wall Definitions
for framed wall bracing. This section discusses two Braced wall (braced wall line). A braced wall is a
common wall bracing methods and some general mostly straight interior or exterior wall that contains
rules about how to install them. Wall bracing is the required length of approved wall braces (braced
very complicated. The intent of this section is to wall panels). Most exterior walls and some interior
introduce you to the concepts. Refer to general codes walls are braced walls. The illustration shows
and consult with qualified professionals for more examples of where wall braces are installed in braced
information about wall bracing, particularly when walls. Offsets from a straight wall are allowed if the
dealing with wall bracing in high wind, seismic design, offset is not more than 4 feet. Angled walls are allowed
and heavy snow load areas. if the angled wall is not more than 8 feet long.

≤ 10' ≤ 20' ≤ 20' ≤ 10'

Wall brace

Wall brace

Wall brace
Length of braced wall

≤ 4'

≤ 4'
Length of braced wall

Length of braced wall

≤ 8' or treat as
Wall
separate braced wall
brace
Total length
of wall braces
in a braced wall
per Table 13A or 13B
Wall (see page 80)
brace

≤ 4'

Length of braced wall

Structural panel wall bracing. To prevent framed walls from racking or leaning, bracing is required. In most cases, bracing can
be accomplished by fastening full-height structural panels to the wall framing at defined intervals, near corners and around
wall openings.

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 Wall brace (braced wall panel). A wall brace is a 2. Begin the wall brace not more than 10 feet from
full height wall with no vertical or horizontal offsets the end of a braced wall.
that has approved wall bracing material attached.
A wood structural panel (such as OSB) and panel- 3. Begin a wall brace not less than 20 feet from
type siding are common examples of approved wall the closest edge of the next wall brace in the
bracing materials. Each braced wall must have an braced wall.
approved total length of wall braces. The total length
of wall braces depends on: (a) the criteria described in 4. Do not exceed 60 feet between braced walls.
the next section; (b) the type of bracing material, such Smaller distances between braced walls are
as wood structural panels and panel siding bracing; required in the D series seismic design areas. Refer
(c) the story being braced; (d) the design wind speed; to the IRC.
and (e) the seismic design category.
Wall Brace Length
Wall Bracing Methods 1. The following discussion and table 13A (see
1. Use one of the approved wall bracing methods. page 80) assumes the house: (a) is located in an
Common wall bracing methods include wood urban area or suburban subdivision that is not
structural panel sheathing that is at least ⅜ inch in an earthquake risk area, (b) has a roof that is
thick, hardboard panel siding that is at least not more than 30 feet above the first story floor,
7
⁄16 inch thick, let-in bracing, and portal frame (c) the height of the wall being braced is not more
braces that provide shorter length bracing near than 10 feet, and (d) wood structural panels or
large openings and garage doors. Each of these panel-type siding is used for the wall brace. This a
methods is an intermittent bracing method. This simplified explanation. Refer to the IRC for more
means that individual wall braces are installed detailed information.
near the ends of each braced wall.
2. Install at least two 48-inch-long wall braces in
braced walls longer than 16 feet. Install at least one
2. You may use a continuous sheathing wall bracing
48-inch-long wall brace or two smaller wall braces
method. This means that all braced walls have
in braced walls 16 feet long or less. Install these
sheathing, such as wood structural panels applied
braces even if Table 13A specifies a smaller length.
continuously to the walls, including above and below
Install the length of wall braces specified in Table
openings and on gable end walls. Refer to the IRC for
13A if the wall brace length in Table 13A is longer
requirements regarding panel lengths near openings
than 48 inches.
and for panel installation and hold-down straps at
the ends of continuously sheathed braced walls.
Fastening Wall Braces
1. Fasten wall bracing material to framing according
3. Refer to the IRC for information about other
to the fastening schedules in the Wood Nailing
wall bracing materials and methods. Refer to
Requirements section of the IRC or according to
manufacturer’s instructions for information about
the brace manufacturer’s instructions.
manufactured wall braces.
2. Fasten vertical joints at panel sheathing edges
4. You may use different wall bracing methods within
to studs. Fasten horizontal joints to at least
the same braced wall, and you may use different
(≥) 1½-inch-thick blocking.
bracing methods on different stories. Example: you
may use let-in bracing at one end of a braced wall
3. Use fasteners and uplift connectors as required
and structural panel bracing on the other end. Use by good engineering practices to connect rafters
the highest required bracing length in the table and trusses to wall braces and to connect the wall
when using different bracing methods in the same braces to framing in stories below.
braced wall. Refer to the IRC for some restrictions
when mixing wall bracing methods. 4. Install at least (≥) ½-inch drywall on the interior
side of wall braces. You will need to multiply the
Wall Bracing General wall brace length by 1.40 if drywall is omitted. Space
Installation Requirements drywall fasteners not more than (≤) 8 inches on
1. Install a wall brace near the end of each braced wall. center at panel edges when using let-in wall braces.

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 TABLE 13A: MINIMUM TOTAL LENGTH OF WALL BRACES IN A BRACED WALL
FOR WOOD STRUCTURAL PANELS (WSP) & PANEL-TYPE SIDING (HPS)
STORIES ABOVE DISTANCE BETWEEN BRACED DESIGN WIND WSP & HPS
BRACED WALL WALLS (FEET) SPEED (MPH) (FEET)
0 10 ≤110 2.0
0 20 ≤110 3.5
0 30 ≤110 5.0
0 40 ≤110 6.5
1 10 ≤110 3.5
1 20 ≤110 6.5
1 30 ≤110 9.5
1 40 ≤110 12.5
2 10 ≤110 5.5
2 20 ≤110 10.0
2 30 ≤110 14.0
2 40 ≤110 18.5

TABLE 13B: SIMPLE WALL BRACING MINIMUM NUMBER OF BRACING UNITS

(WIND SPEED NOT MORE THAN 115 MPH, URBAN & SUBURBAN AREA)
STORIES EAVE TO LONG SIDE SHORT SIDE
ABOVE RIDGE HEIGHT (FEET) (FEET)
(FEET) 10 20 30 40 50 60 10 20 30 40 50 60
0 10 1 2 2 2 3 3 1 2 2 2 3 3
1 10 2 3 3 4 5 6 2 3 3 4 5 6
0 15 1 2 3 3 4 4 1 2 3 3 4 4
1 15 2 3 4 5 6 7 2 3 4 5 6 7

Simple Wall Bracing 2. Use wood structural panels that are at

1. You may use a less complex wall bracing method least ⅜ inch thick as the wall bracing material.
for certain homes that are basically rectangles Fasten ⅜-inch-thick wood structural panels
with insets and pop-outs. The home must using 6d common nails. Fasten 7⁄16-inch-thick
comply with all of the following to qualify for this wood structural panels using 8d common
less complex method: (a) wind speed area not nails. Space the nails 6 inches on center
more than 130 miles per hour; (b) wind exposure at the edges and 12 inches on center at
category is B or C; (c) wall height not more than intermediate supports.
10 feet; (d) seismic design category A, B, or C
for one- and two-family homes; (e) not more 3. Build bracing units as full height walls with no
than three stories above a concrete or masonry openings and no vertical or horizontal offsets. A
foundation or basement wall; (f) cantilevered bracing unit must be one fully sheathed vertical
floors extend not more than 24 inches beyond wall segment.
the bearing point; (g) roof eave to ridge height
not more than 15 feet; (h) at least (≥) ½-inch 4. Use bracing units that are at least 3 feet long
drywall installed on the interior side of all when the walls are continuously sheathed with
exterior walls; and (i) no cripple walls allowed the wall bracing material. Continuously sheathed
in three-story homes. means all wall areas have structural sheathing

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 applied, including above and below openings 7. You may count bracing units that are wider
and at gable wall ends. Use bracing units that than the minimum width as multiple bracing
are at least 4 feet long when the walls are not units. Divide the width of the bracing unit by the
continuously sheathed. minimum bracing unit width to determine the
number of bracing units. Example: a bracing unit is
5. Begin a bracing unit not more than 12 feet from a 7 feet wide. The wall is not continuously sheathed,
wall corner. Make the distance between adjacent so the minimum bracing unit width is 4 feet. The
bracing units in the same wall not more than 7-foot-wide bracing unit counts as 1¾ bracing
20 feet. Place at least one bracing unit in any wall units (7/4 = 1.75).
more than 8 feet long.
8. Do not count sheathed wall segments that are
6. Determine the length of exterior walls as shown in narrower than the 3- or 4-foot minimum lengths
the illustration on page 78. Do not include open as bracing units. Refer to the IRC for exceptions
structures, such as porches, decks, and carports. involving certain continuous sheathing methods
Interior walls do not count as braced walls. at garage doors and large openings.

Length of braced wall

long side

Wall brace
Length of braced wall
short side

≤ 20'

Wall brace

≤ 12'

FIRST STORY PLAN

Length of braced wall

long side
Length of braced wall
short side

SECOND STORY PLAN

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 Wood Structural Panel
Wall Bracing
1. Install wood structural panel wall bracing using
4 × 8 or 4 × 9 panels at least ⅜ inch thick (span
rating 24/0). Wood structural panel wall bracing may be used on all stories
and in all seismic and wind design areas.

2. Install panels that are at least 48 inches wide and

cover at least three stud bays for studs spaced 4. Install solid blocking where panel joints occur
16 inches on center. between studs to maintain fastener spacing. Use
at least 1½-inch-thick wood for blocking. The
3. Secure ⅜-inch-thick wood structural panel blocking is usually the same dimensions as the
bracing to studs using at least 6d common nails studs. Example: 2 × 6 blocking is normally used with
spaced not more than 6 inches on center at panel 2 × 6 studs, although 2 × 4 blocking is acceptable.
edges and 12 inches on center at intermediate
supports. Secure 7⁄16-inch-thick panels (span 5. You may use wood structural panel wall bracing
rating 24/16) using 8d common nails spaced as on all stories and in all wind speed and seismic
previously described. design areas.

Fireblocking
Fireblocking (also called firestopping) limits the bottom plate usually provides fireblocking in
spread of fires vertically between stories in concealed platform framing.
wood-framed walls and horizontally in long concealed
areas, such as double walls, framed openings, and drop 3. Install fireblocking where concealed vertical and
soffits above cabinets. Concealed vertical spaces in horizontal wall spaces intersect. Examples of
wood-framed walls can act like a chimney, providing concealed horizontal spaces include soffits for
fire an easy and rapid path between stories. Lack of kitchen cabinets and recessed vanity lights, and
fireblocking increases the chance of property damage drop ceilings.
and loss of life during a fire. Lack of fireblocking is a
common reason for failing government inspections. 4. Install fireblocking between stair stringers at the
Do not confuse fireblocking with draftstopping top and bottom of each flight of stairs. Also install
(see page 68). Draftstopping limits the horizontal drywall (at least ½ inch thick) on all walls and
movement of air in concealed floor/ceiling assemblies. soffits if the area under the stairs is accessible by a
door or access panel.
Where Fireblocking Is Required
1. Install fireblocking in any concealed wall space 5. Install fireblocking around chimneys and flues
if an opening exists that would allow fire to where they intersect framing at floor and
spread from one story to another or from a lower ceiling levels.
story into the attic. Examples of such openings
include: openings for plumbing pipes, openings for 6. Install fireblocking in concealed wall spaces
electrical wires and conduit, HVAC duct chases if the concealed space is open for more than
between stories, laundry chutes, and openings at 10 feet horizontally. A common example of a
the tops of framed columns, niches, and arches. long concealed horizontal wall space is a double
wall built using two rows of staggered studs.
2. Install fireblocking in concealed wall spaces at Another example is a large arched opening
every ceiling and floor level. An intact top and between rooms.

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 Install fireblocking in framed columns,
Fireblock framed arches, and similar openings
between stories.

Install listed fire-resistant caulk or

foam sealant at penetrations for wires,
pipes, and ducts. This helps reduce the
spread of fires and helps limit air and
moisture flow.

Fire-resistant sealant

Fireblocking Materials & Installation or particleboard. Use the same fireblocking

1. You may use any of the following fireblocking material for the backing. Example: if a joint
materials: (a) 2-inch-thick lumber (example: a exists in OSB fireblocking material, place
2 × 4), (b) two pieces of 1-inch-thick lumber with another piece of the same OSB material over the
staggered joints (example: two 1 × 4), (c) at least joint. Most general codes do not state how far to
23
⁄32-inch-thick wood structural panels, (d) at least extend the backing.
¾-inch-thick particleboard, (e) at least ½-inch-
thick drywall, (f) at least ¼-inch-thick cement‐ 3. Do not use loose fill insulation as a fireblocking
based millboard, or (g) unfaced batts or blankets of material unless it is specifically tested and
mineral wool or fiberglass insulation if it is secured approved for the intended location and
in place. installation method.

2. Install backing at any joints in fireblocking 4. Repair fireblocking that is damaged or penetrated
material when using wood structural panels by pipes, ducts, or other materials.

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 Kick-out flashing is
Min. 4" inserted between the
underside of the roof-
covering layer and a
sidewall to redirect
Min. 4" water away from the
sidewall. Flashing
should be at least 4"

Wall Penetration Flashing

tall and 4" wide.

I t is not possible to overstate the importance of

flashing to the long-term integrity and health of
your home. Sealants, such as caulk, degrade over time
veneer, at horizontal joints in panel siding, with Z
flashing at window and door headers, and at other
drainage points.
and require maintenance. Exterior wall coverings
move and crack, creating gaps into which moisture Flashing Required Locations
can flow. People often do not maintain caulking and 1. Install flashing at all window and door openings.
sealants as they should. The best long-term solution Refer to the window and door manufacturer’s
to avoiding moisture intrusion is a combination of installation instructions and to the instructions
a water-resistant barrier and flashing integrated to for any weather-resistive material (such as house
form a drainage plane that prevents moisture from wrap) or flashing material.
reaching vulnerable wood framing materials and
drains the moisture away from the structure. 2. Install pan flashing at the window and door
sills unless the window or door manufacturer’s
Flashing General Requirements instructions state otherwise. Integrate the pan
1. Use only corrosion-resistant flashing material, such flashing with jamb (side) flashing, header (top),
as aluminum, galvanized steel, and peel-and-stick and the weather-resistant barrier. Install all
material. Corrosion resistance includes fasteners or window and door flashing so that water drains
other materials used to secure the flashing. away from the opening and out from the structure.

2. Use flashing, fasteners, and other materials 3. Install sidewall flashing where chimneys or other
that are compatible with each other and with masonry construction intersect with walls.
surrounding materials. Incompatible materials
will react with each other and degrade over time. 4. Install projecting lips (sometimes called kick-out
Example: do not use galvanized material with flashing) at chimneys and other sidewalls where
aluminum or with copper. a roof extends past a vertical sidewall. Kick-
out flashing helps divert water away from this
3. Flash and seal all wall penetrations and other vulnerable intersection.
vulnerable areas so that moisture will not enter the
structure. Flash and seal any point where moisture 5. Install header/sidewall flashing under and at the
could enter the structure, regardless of whether it ends of all copings and sills, including masonry,
is mentioned in the list of areas where flashing is metal, and wood.
specifically required.
6. Install header/sidewall flashing above all wood
4. Install flashing “shingle fashion” so that upper trim that projects from the adjoining wall and
flashing laps over lower flashing, resulting in forms a shelf where water can collect.
a drainage plane that will drain water toward
a designated discharge point. This includes 7. Install flashing at the attachment point of
integrating flashing with the water-resistant barrier. exterior porches, decks, balconies, stairs, or floor
assemblies to wood-framed construction.
5. Extend flashing to the surface of the exterior wall
finish material if necessary to assure that water 8. Install sidewall flashing at all roof and
is drained. This may be necessary with brick wall intersections.

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 1
How to Flash a Window & a Door

≥ 6"

Adhesive caulk

Self-adhesive
Pan flashing
flashing
≥ 4"

≥ 12"
≥ 6"
Patch ≥ 8" ≥ 8"
Water resistant
≥ 12"
barrier

Install a water-resistant barrier, such as flexible flashing, to Cut strips of self-adhesive flashing membrane and apply them
the sheathing beneath the window opening. Attach the barrier to the wall at each side of the window opening. The flashing
at the top only so material may be slipped underneath later. should extend into the window opening an amount roughly
Install a metal or peel-and-stick window pan in the opening. equal to the thickness of the wall. Make slits in the flashing at
Cut small patches of adhesive membrane to cover the corners the top and bottom and fold over to cover the side jambs and
where the pan climbs up the side jambs. the vertical portion of the pan. Apply a bead of adhesive caulk
around the sides and top of the opening.
NOTE: If building wrap has already been installed, remove
just enough to expose the exterior wall sheathing around the
window opening.

≥ 16"
≥ 12"

Water resistant
barrier

Install the window according to the manufacturer’s directions. Install building wrap according to the manufacturer’s
Apply a strip of self-adhesive flashing membrane across the instructions. The edges of the wrap at the window opening
top of the opening, covering the top window nailing flange. should be secured to the flanges with building wrap tape
supplied by the building wrap manufacturer. At the bottom
of the window, slide the top edge of the building wrap behind
the moisture barrier that was left unfastened at the bottom.

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 Roof Systems

T his section addresses the roof structural system.

Refer to other sections of this book, general codes,
and manufacturer’s instructions for information about
secure the rafters to each other with a gusset plate,
collar tie, or ridge strap.

installing roof coverings. The number and size of the 2. Install at least a 2-inch (nominal thickness) hip
rafters or trusses is a vital element of home design, as rafter and valley rafter at all hips and valleys,
are the methods for fastening these elements to the including valleys formed when one roof is framed on
house structure. If you live in a coastal area or any top of another, collar tie, or ridge strap.
region that is prone to earthquakes or hurricanes, a
separate set of codes exists for your roof system. Be
3. Support hip and valley rafters at the ridge with a
sure to enforce its more rigorous standards when
brace to a load-bearing wall, or design the hip and
you build.
valley rafters to bear the load at the ridge.
Ridge, Valley & Hip Rafter Framing
4. Design and support ridge, hip, and valley rafters as
1. Install at least a 1-inch (nominal thickness)
ridgeboard at roof ridges in houses built with beams when the roof pitch is less than 3⁄12.
rafters (truss-built roofs do not have ridgeboards).
Install a ridgeboard that is at least as deep as 5. Design and support the ridge as a beam and design
the (plumb) cut end of the rafter. Install rafters the walls supporting the ridge board to bear the
across from each other (within 1½ inch) at the ridgeboard load when framing cathedral and vaulted
ridgeboard. You may omit the ridgeboard if you ceilings without ceiling joists and rafter ties.

A roof system comprises

rafters or trusses that
support roof sheathing. The
sheathing is covered with an
underlayment and roofing
materials. Soffits, flashing, and
ventilation are also important
parts of the roof system.

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 Common rafters
Ridge board

Ridge
board

Hip rafter
Hip jack
n rafter Valley jack rafter

Rafters have specific names that are assigned according to their function in the Position rafters across from each other
roof system. on a ridgeboard or beam that is at least
as deep as the rafter plumb cut.

Purlins 3. Use at least one 2 × 4 brace to carry the purlin load

1. You may use purlins to support rafters that would to a load‐bearing wall. The purlin brace length
otherwise span a greater distance than allowed. should not exceed 8 feet without additional
Example: a properly installed purlin at the center bracing (usually an additional 2 × 4 nailed to the
of an 18-foot-long rafter would allow you to use brace). Purlin braces should bear on a load-bearing
9 feet as the rafter span distance. wall and may not slope at less than a 45-degree
d angle from horizontal. Space the purlin braces not
2. Install purlins that are at least the same depth more than 4 feet apart.
as the rafters they support. Example: use a
2 × 6 purlin to support a 2 × 6 rafter.

Use purlins to support rafters if the rafter

span is longer than allowed.

Rafter
Illo 122
Purlin ≥ depth of rafter
CG_Codes
07-20-2009 ≥ 2 × 4 brace @
≤ 4' on center

≤ 8' without
≥ 45° angle additional support

Load-bearing wall

Purlins supporting rafters

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 Collar Ties Rafter & Ceiling Joist Bridging
1. You may install collar ties, gusset plates, or ridge & Lateral Support
straps if installing rafters without a ridge board. 1. Install bridging on rafters and ceiling joists
Collar ties, gusset plates, and ridge straps are not deeper than 2 × 12 (six-to-one depth-to-thickness
required if a ridge board is installed. ratio). Space bridging not more than every 8 feet.
Bridging should consist of solid, full-depth
2. Space collar ties not more than 4 feet blocking, wood or metal diagonal bridging or
on center. by nailing at least a 1 × 3 wood strip to each
rafter or ceiling joist. Bridging is required by
3. Locate collar ties in the upper one-third of the some building officials on ceiling joists smaller
attic space. than 2 × 12.

4. Connect collar ties and rafters as specified in 2. Install lateral support at bearing points on rafters
Table 10 (see page 72). and ceiling joists deeper than 2 × 10 (five-to-one
depth-to-thickness ratio).
Rafter & Ceiling Joist Bearing on Support
1. Install rafters and ceiling joists with at least Ceiling Joist & Rafter Notching & Boring
1½ inches of the rafter or joist bearing on 1. Notch and bore dimensional lumber ceiling joists
supporting wood members (such as a top plate or and rafters using the same rules as for floor joists,
a valley rafter) and at least 3 inches of the rafter or except as indicated below.
joist bearing on masonry or concrete.
2. Leave at least 3½ inches of wood above the notch
2. Toenail rafters to the top plate as specified in (bird mouth cut) where the rafter bears on the
Table 10 (see page 72). exterior wall, and do not cantilever the rafter past
the wall more than 24 inches.
3. Install plates with a bearing area of at least
48 square inches when the plate bears on 3. Do not taper a ceiling joist more than the actual
concrete or masonry. This means that the depth of the ceiling joist divided by 4 if notching
plate should have at least 48 square inches the ceiling joist where it bears on the wall.
of surface area in contact with the masonry Example: do not cut more than 1⅞ inch of a
or concrete. 2 × 8 ceiling joist where it bears on the wall.

Connect one ceiling joist to one rafter

when the ceiling joists and rafters
are parallel.

Rafter

Ceiling joist

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 indicated in Table 14. Use 2 × 4 or larger lumber for
rafter ties.
Rafters

5. You may substitute 2 × 4 kickers for rafter ties if

the ceiling joists are not parallel to the rafters.
Fasten the kickers to the rafters and to the
ceiling joists as if the kickers were ceiling joists or
rafter ties.

6. Lap ceiling joists that meet over interior walls

or beams at least 3 inches, and facenail using
the same quantity and type of nails indicated in
Table 14. Apply this requirement when the ceiling
joists are designed to resist rafter lateral thrust.
This requirement usually applies when the ceiling
joists are attached to the rafters.

7. You may butt the ends of ceiling joists together

over interior walls or beams. Fasten the ceiling
joists as specified in Table 10 (see page 72) if the
ceiling joists are not designed to resist rafter lateral
thrust. This exception usually applies when the
ceiling joists are not attached to the rafters.

Rafter ties Ceiling Joist Nailing to Rafter Exceptions

1. Note the following exceptions to the quantity of
nails required by codes:
Connect one rafter tie to one rafter.
(a) You may reduce the required quantity of nails
by 25 percent if the nails are clinched (the pointed
Ceiling Joist Nailing to Rafter ends sticking out from the wood are bent over).
1. Toenail all rafters to the top plate as specified in
Table 10 (see page 72). (b) You may use fewer fasteners if you support
the ridge board on load-bearing walls or if you
2. Install a method to prevent rafter thrust from design and support the ridge as a beam.
pushing on supporting walls. You may use ceiling
joists, rafter ties, or kickers to comply with (c) You may use a smaller roof span column
this requirement. if you install purlins to support the rafters.
Example: if you install purlins at the center of
3. Connect one rafter to one ceiling joist when the rafters with a roof span of 24 feet, you may reduce
ceiling joists are parallel to the rafters. Locate the the roof span by 50 percent and use the 12-foot
ceiling joists in the lower third of the attic area, roof span column.
if possible. Facenail these ceiling joists to rafters
using 16d common nails or 40d box nails. (See (d) You may reduce the actual rafter slope by
Table 14, page 90.) one-third if you substitute rafter ties for ceiling
joists, Example: if the actual rafter slope is 9/12,
4. Connect one rafter to one rafter tie and connect use 6/12 as the adjusted rafter slope, but because
the rafter tie to the corresponding rafter on the there is no 6/12 slope row, use the nearest more
other side of the roof when the ceiling joists are conservative 5/12 row.
not parallel to the rafters. Locate the rafter ties
in the bottom one-third of the rafter height, if (e) Increase the quantity of nails in the table if
possible. Facenail rafters ties to rafters using the the ceiling joists or rafter ties are not located at the
quantity of 16d common nails or 40d box nails bottom of the attic space.

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 TABLE 14: NAIL QUANTITIES CEILING JOISTS & RAFTER TIES TO RAFTERS
GROUND SNOW LOAD (PSF)
20 30 50 70
Rafter
Rafter Spacing Roof Span (feet)
Slope (inches) 12 20 28 36 12 20 28 36 12 20 28 36 12 20 28 36

12 4 6 8 10 4 6 8 11 5 8 12 15 6 11 15 20
3/12 16 5 8 10 13 5 8 11 14 6 11 15 20 8 14 20 26
24 7 11 15 21 7 11 16 21 9 16 23 30 12 21 30 39

12 3 5 6 8 3 5 6 8 4 6 9 11 5 8 12 15
4/12 16 4 6 8 10 4 6 8 11 5 8 12 15 6 11 15 20
24 5 8 12 15 5 9 12 16 7 12 17 22 9 16 23 29

12 3 4 5 6 3 4 5 7 3 5 7 9 4 7 9 12
5/12 16 3 5 6 8 3 5 7 9 4 7 9 12 5 9 12 16
24 4 7 9 12 4 7 10 13 6 10 14 18 7 13 18 23

12 3 4 4 5 3 3 3 5 3 4 5 7 3 5 7 9
7/12 16 3 4 5 6 3 4 4 6 3 5 7 9 4 6 9 11
24 3 5 7 9 3 5 5 9 4 7 10 13 5 9 13 17

12 3 3 4 4 3 3 3 4 3 3 4 5 3 4 5 7
9/12 16 3 4 4 5 3 3 3 5 3 4 5 7 3 5 7 9
24 3 4 6 7 3 4 4 7 3 6 8 10 4 7 10 13

12 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 4 3 3 4 5
12/12 16 3 3 4 4 3 3 3 4 3 3 4 5 3 4 5 7
24 3 4 4 5 3 3 3 6 3 4 6 8 3 6 8 10

Rafter & Truss Connection to Walls is not more than 32 feet, and the roof pitch is at
1. Attach trusses and rafters to the supporting walls least 5/12. The truss design drawings supersede
as specified in Table 10 (see page 72). This applies this requirement.
when: (a) roof uplift force is not more than 200
pounds and the trusses and rafters are spaced 2. Refer to the IRC or engineered plans for wall
not more than 24 inches on center; or when (b) attachment requirements when the limitations in
the wind speed is not more than 115 miles per #1 above do not apply. Some building inspectors
hour, the wind exposure category is B and the require hurricane ties on all trusses and rafters.

Hurricane ties (also called clips) are

recommended for all rafter or truss
connections to walls. In some areas,
they are required.

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 CEILING JOIST & RAFTER SPAN DEFINITIONS
Selecting the correct size and type of ceiling joist requires that you know whether the attic may be used for storage.
Selecting the correct size and type of rafter requires that you know the loads imposed by roof covering materials and loads
imposed by snow accumulation on the roof.

Use these attic storage definitions to help you determine the correct ceiling joist span table. Access to attics with limited
storage may be through a scuttle hole or by pull-down stairs. If attic access is by a permanent stairway, then consider the
attic to be habitable space, and use the bedroom floor joist span tables instead of the ceiling joist span tables.

These attic storage definitions do not affect the requirements for access to attics. Refer to the Attic Access section
(page 95) for attic access requirements.

An attic without storage, built with joists and rafters, has less than 42" between the top of the ceiling joists and the bottom
of the rafters. An attic without storage, built with trusses, has fewer than three adjacent trusses with the same web
configuration that could contain a cube not more than 42" wide and 24" tall located in the same plane (area) of the truss.

An attic with limited storage, built with joists and rafters, has at least 42" between the top of the ceiling joists and the
bottom of the rafters. An attic with limited storage, built with trusses, has three or more adjacent trusses with the same
web configuration that could contain a cube more than 42" wide and 24" tall located in the same plane (area) of the truss.
An attic with limited storage is designed with an additional 10 psf live load compared to an attic without storage. Verify the
storage capacity of truss-built attics with the truss engineer before using the attic for storage.

Roof live and snow load. Use the roof live load 20 psf tables in areas where the design ground snow load is less than (<)
30 psf. Use the rafter snow load tables in areas of the country with ground snow loads of 30 psf or more. Verify the design
ground snow load with the local building official.

Rafter dead loads. Use the 10 psf rafter dead load columns when using one layer of roof coverings such as fiberglass
shingles and wood. Use the 20 psf rafter dead load columns when using roof coverings such as tile and slate.

“Limited storage” in an attic

Ridge with joists and rafters requires
a clear span of 42" tall. In
an attic built with trusses,
Rafter you must have at least three
consecutive bays where a
24"-high by 42"-wide cube
Min. 42" can pass through without
changing direction.

Joist

“Limited storage” in attic with rafters

Chord

Min. 42"

Min. 24"

Web

“Limited storage” in attic with trusses

STRUCTURAL COMPONENTS 91

Illo 130
CG_Codes
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 Ceiling Joist & Rafter Deflection 2. Refer to the IRC or to the AF&PA
1. All ceiling joist spans in the tables below use L/240 Span Tables for Joists and Rafters to
deflection, where L is the length of the joist or determine spans for lumber widths,
rafter in inches divided by 240. species, grades, and snow load factors
not in these tables.
2. All rafter spans in the tables below use L/180
deflection. 3. These tables apply to roof systems
framed using standard 2-inch
Ceiling Joist & Rafter Span Tables (nominal thickness) dimensional
1. Use the following tables to determine the lumber. An engineer must design roof
maximum unsupported horizontal distance that truss systems.
ceiling joists and rafters can span.

TABLE 15: CEILING JOIST SPANS TABLE 16: CEILING JOIST SPANS
16"  ON CENTER UNINHABITABLE 24" ON CENTER UNINHABITABLE
ATTICS, NO STORAGE ATTICS, NO STORAGE

2×6 2×8 2 × 10 2×6 2×8 2 × 10

SPECIES GRADE FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN. SPECIES GRADE FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN.

Douglas fir 2 17-8 23-4 >26-0 Douglas fir 2 15-0 19-1 23-3

Hem fir 2 16-6 21-9 >26-0 Hem fir 2 14-5 18-6 22-7

Southern pine 2 16-11 21-7 >25-7 Southern pine 2 13-11 17-7 20-11

Spruce-pine-fir 2 16-11 22-4 >26-0 Spruce-pine-fir 2 14-9 18-9 22-11

TABLE 17: CEILING JOIST SPANS TABLE 18: CEILING JOIST SPANS
16" ON CENTER UNINHABITABLE 24" ON CENTER UNINHABITABLE
ATTICS WITH LIMITED STORAGE ATTICS WITH LIMITED STORAGE

2×6 2×8 2 × 10 2×6 2×8 2 × 10

SPECIES GRADE FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN. SPECIES GRADE FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN.

Douglas fir 2 13-9 17-5 21-3 Douglas fir 2 10-8 13-6 16-5

Hem fir 2 12-8 16-0 19-7 Hem fir 2 10-4 13-1 16-0

Southern pine 2 12-0 15-3 18-1 Southern pine 2 9-10 12-6 14-9

Spruce-pine-fir 2 12-10 16-3 19-10 Spruce-pine-fir 2 10-6 13-3 16-3

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 TABLE 19: RAFTER SPANS 16" TABLE 20: RAFTER SPANS 24"
ON CENTER, ROOF LIVE LOAD ON CENTER, ROOF LIVE LOAD
20 PSF, CEILING NOT ATTACHED 20 PSF, CEILING NOT ATTACHED

DEAD LOAD 10 PSF 10 PSF 10 PSF 20 PSF 20 PSF 20 PSF DEAD LOAD 10 PSF 10 PSF 10 PSF 20 PSF 20 PSF 20 PSF

2 × 6 2 × 8 2 × 10 2 × 6 2 × 8 2 × 10 2 × 6 2 × 8 2 × 10 2 × 6 2 × 8 2 × 10
SPECIES-GRADE FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN. SPECIES-GRADE FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN.

Douglas fir - 2 14-4 18-2 22-3 12-5 15-9 19-6 Douglas fir - 2 11-11 15-1 18-5 10-4 13-0 15-11

Hem fir - 2 14-2 17-11 21-11 12-3 15-6 18-11 Hem fir - 2 11-7 14-8 17-10 10-0 12-8 15-6

Southern pine - 2 13-6 17-1 20-3 11-8 14-9 17-6 Southern pine - 2 11-0 10-11 16-6 9-6 12-1 14-4

Spruce pine fir - 2 14-4 18-2 22-3 12-5 15-9 19-3 Spruce pine fir - 2 11-9 14-10 18-2 10-2 12-10 15-8

TABLE 21: RAFTER SPANS 16" TABLE 22: RAFTER SPANS 24"
ON CENTER, GROUND SNOW LOAD ON CENTER, GROUND SNOW LOAD
30 PSF, CEILING NOT ATTACHED 30 PSF, CEILING NOT ATTACHED

DEAD LOAD 10 PSF 10 PSF 10 PSF 20 PSF 20 PSF 20 PSF DEAD LOAD 10 PSF 10 PSF 10 PSF 20 PSF 20 PSF 20 PSF

2 × 6 2 × 8 2 × 10 2 × 6 2 × 8 2 × 10 2 × 6 2 × 8 2 × 10 2 × 6 2 × 8 2 × 10
SPECIES-GRADE FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN. SPECIES-GRADE FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN. FT.-IN.

Douglas fir - 2 12-1 15-4 18-9 10-10 13-8 16-9 Douglas fir - 2 9-10 12-6 15-3 8-10 11-2 13-8

Hem fir - 2 11-9 14-11 18-2 10-6 13-4 16-3 Hem fir - 2 9-7 12-2 14-10 8-7 10-10 13-3

Southern pine - 2 11-2 14-2 16-10 10-0 12-8 15-1 Southern pine - 2 9-2 11-7 13-9 8-2 10-4 12-3

Spruce pine fir - 2 11-11 15-1 18-5 10-8 13-6 16-6 Spruce pine fir - 2 9-9 12-4 15-1 8-8 11-0 13-6

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 Roof Truss Installation
Truss Design & Bracing Written 2. Install trusses so that a bow in either the top or
Specifications Requirements bottom chord is not more than L/200 or 2 inches,
1. Use a qualified engineer to design all wood trusses, whichever is less. L is the length of the truss chord
such as roof and floor trusses. The engineer and/ in inches.
or truss manufacturer should provide written
truss design and installation specifications and 3. Install trusses that are out-of-plumb (vertical) by
deliver them to the job site with the trusses. not more than D/50 or 2 inches, whichever is less.
D is the depth of the truss in inches at the point
These specifications should include engineering
of measurement.
information, such as chord live and dead loads;
assembly information, such as the size, species,
4. Install trusses at load-bearing points not more
and grade of each truss member; and installation
than ¼ inch from the location on the plans.
instructions, such as where each truss should
be located on the structure and how the trusses
5. Install trusses that use the top chord as the
should be permanently braced.
weight-bearing point with a gap of not more than
½ inch between the inside of the load-bearing
Truss Installation support and the first diagonal or vertical truss web.
Tolerance Recommendations
1. Install trusses according to the installation Alteration & Repair of Trusses
tolerances contained in the written truss 1. Do not alter trusses in any way, including cutting,
specifications. Use the following installation notching, boring, and splicing, without written
tolerances from the booklet Guide to Good instructions from a qualified engineer.
Practice for Handling, Installation & Bracing of
Metal Plate Connected Wood Trusses only if the 2. Do not use trusses to carry the weight of
engineer and/or truss manufacturer does not equipment (such as furnaces or water heaters),
provide installation instructions. The IRC does not use the attic area for storage, or hang storage units
specifically require installation to these tolerances; from trusses unless the trusses have been designed
however, installation to these tolerances is implied to carry the additional weight.
by the general IRC requirement that components
be installed according to manufacturer’s 3. Do not repair damaged trusses without written
installation instructions. instructions from a qualified engineer.

Truss Details
A = Truss bearing on top chord; B = Truss not plumb; C = Truss parts; D = Bowed truss chords
Top chords
Truss bearing point

Max. out
of plumb
Depth
of truss
Bearing C
wall Webs
B
≤ ½" A Gusset

First web
Length of truss chord
Bottom chord

Max. bow
Truss chord
D Bearing point

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 Attic Access
General Attic Access Requirements Insulation Clearance
1. Provide an access opening to every attic with at to Heat-Producing Devices
least 30 square feet of attic area and a vertical 1. Provide at least 3 inches clearance between
height of at least 30 inches at some point in the combustible insulation and heat-producing
30 square feet. Measure the vertical height from devices, such as recessed lighting fixtures and fan
the top of the ceiling joists (or truss bottom chord) motors. Most insulation used in modern homes is
to the bottom of the rafters (or truss top chord). considered combustible.

2. Provide a rough opening (size before finishing) 2. You may reduce the 3-inch clearance
for a ceiling attic access of at least 22 inches by requirement if the device is listed for a lesser
30 inches. Locate the opening in a hallway or other clearance and is installed according to
readily accessible location. Locate the opening so manufacturer’s instructions.
that at least 30 inches of unobstructed headroom
exists at some point above the opening. 3. Install an insulation shield around any gas or
oil vent that passes through an attic or other
3. Provide a rough opening (size before finishing) insulated area (such as a floor/ceiling assembly).
for a wall attic access of at least 22 inches wide by
30 inches high. 4. Use at least 26-gauge sheet metal for the
insulation shield.
4. You do not need to provide attic access if the ceiling
and roof systems are built using non-combustible 5. Extend the shield at least 2 inches above attic
materials. This is rare in residential construction. insulation material.

5. Refer to the IRC for additional access requirements 6. Secure the insulation shield to prevent movement
if appliances are located in the attic. of the shield.

Install an insulation
shield around
equipment
vents that pass
through insulation.

Shield

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 Exterior
Components

T he primary function of the exterior components

of a building is to keep the elements out. Of these
elements, the most destructive is water. Water causes
more damage than almost any other natural source,
including fire and termites. Water can destroy most
building materials, and it is an essential ingredient for
mold growth.
In this chapter you will learn about three common
water control issues. Shingle roof coverings are the
most common type of material for keeping water
that falls on the roof out of the home. You will learn
about the code requirements for shingle installation
and about where to install flashing that keeps water
away from vulnerable areas, such as where roofs
intersect with walls and chimneys. You will also learn
about code requirements for water control around
your home so that water stays out of basements and
crawl spaces.
This chapter also contains information about
fireplaces and chimneys. Water infiltration is
common around these components, and fire safety is
an additional important consideration.

In this chapter:
• Shingle Roof-Covering Installation
• Fireplaces & Chimneys

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 Shingle Roof-Covering Installation

W hen it comes to installing roof coverings, it can

be a little hard to define where enforceable
codes end and ordinary best practices begin. But
applies to asphalt shingles. It does not include
asphalt-based roll roofing. This section applies to
shingle roof-covering installation in almost all areas.
it is safe to say that most codes contain guidelines Consult your local building inspector for additional
for installing roof coverings that, if followed, will requirements if you live in a very high wind speed
ensure a long-lasting roof that keeps moisture from design area, such as near the ocean.
penetrating your house. The following information Always read and follow the shingle manufacturer's
instructions. They are printed on every package of
shingles. Details that seem minor, such as failing
to install the starter course or incorrectly installing
nails, can make a big difference in how the shingles
perform under stress. Failing to follow instructions
can void the shingle warranty. This section applies to
shingle roof-covering installation in almost all areas.
Consult your local building inspector for additional
requirements if you live in a very high wind speed
design area, such as near the ocean.

Roof Slope & Sheathing

“Asphalt shingles” is a fairly general description that includes
three-tab, dimensional, and laminated shingles.
Roof Slope Restriction
1. Do not install shingles on roofs with a slope
less than 2/12. Low slope and flat roofs require
a roof covering designed for a low slope roof.
Membranes, such as modified bitumen and EPDM,
and standing seam metal are examples of low
12" slope roof coverings.

7"
2. Install a double underlayment layer under shingles
on roofs with a slope between 2/12 and 4/12.
r
fte
Ra
3. Verify shingle manufacturer’s instructions
about minimum roof slope. Some do not allow
installation on slopes less than 2½/12.

Roof Deck Type Restriction

Outside wall
1. Install shingle roof covering only on solid sheathed
roofs. In residential construction this means roofs
Roof slope is measured by the number of inches the roof covered by OSB or plywood, which includes virtually
increases in height (rise) in 12" horizontally (run). all houses built in the last generation or two.

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 Drip Edge
1. Install drip edge flashing at eaves and at
gable rakes.

2. Use drip edge flashing that extends at least ¼ inch

below the roof sheathing and extends at least
2 inches up the roof deck.

3. Lap adjacent drip edge pieces at least 2 inches.

4. Attach drip edge using roofing nails spaced not

more than 12 inches on center.

5. Install underlayment under the drip edge at rakes.

Endorsed products for roofing underlayment include roofing
felt (building paper) in both #15 and #30 thickness as well as 6. Install underlayment over the drip edge at eaves.
self-adhesive ice dam underlayment. Elastomeric roof cement
is used for minor patching and sealing as well as for binding
underlayment courses together.

Underlayment Specifications
1. Use at least #15 roofing felt (also called building
paper). Other material, such as modified bitumen
sheets and proprietary products from the shingle
manufacturer, may be acceptable. Refer to general
codes and manufacturer’s instructions for other
acceptable underlayment materials.

Underlayment Application
for Roof Slopes 4-in-12 & Greater
1. Begin at the eaves and apply at least a 36-inch-
wide strip of underlayment parallel to the eaves.

2. Lap horizontal joints at least 2 inches with the

upper strip over the lower strip.

3. Lap end joints as specified by the shingle

manufacturer. End joint laps are usually between
4 and 6 inches.

4. Offset end joints by at least 6 feet.

5. Use sufficient fasteners to hold underlayment

in place. The IRC does not specify fastener type
and quantity.

6. Minimize wrinkles and distortions in the

underlayment. Wrinkles should not interfere with
the ability of the shingle’s sealing strips to seal.
Proper installation of underlayment is important for reducing
Underlayment wrinkles and distortions can appear
roof leaks. The underlayment should overlap the top of the
through the shingles, creating a cosmetic issue. drip edge at the eave, with the drip edge along the rake edges
installed after the underlayment so it overlaps and directs
runoff onto the underlayment.

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 Underlayment Application for Roof Underlayment Application in Ice Dam Areas
Slopes Between 2-in-12 & 4-in-12 1. Install ice dam underlayment where there is a
1. Begin at the eaves and apply at least a history of water backup at the eaves caused by
ice. Verify ice dam requirements with the local
19-inch-wide strip of underlayment parallel to
building official. You do not need to install ice
the eaves. dam underlayment on unconditioned detached
accessory structures, such as an unheated garage.
2. Begin again at the eaves and apply at least a
36-inch-wide strip of underlayment. 2. Install either a sheet of self-adhering, polymer-
modified bitumen roofing or at least two layers of
3. Lap each successive layer at least 19 inches over roofing felt bonded together with roofing cement.
the previous layer, with the upper layer lapping Begin the ice dam underlayment at the lowest
over the lower layer. edge of all roof surfaces, and extend it at least
24 inches beyond the exterior wall of the building.
4. Lap end joints at least 6 inches.
3. Measure distances horizontally, not up the roof
sheathing. Begin the 24-inch measurement
5. Use sufficient fasteners to hold underlayment in from the interior side of the wall. Example: if the
place. Most codes do not specify fastener type eaves extend 12 inches horizontally from the
and quantity. exterior wall of the building, extend the ice dam
underlayment at least 39 inches horizontally from
6. Install drip edge as previously described. the edge of the eaves (assuming a 2 × 4 wall).

Self-adhesive ice guard

(2 courses)

Install one or two courses (depending on local codes) of fully-bonded, self-adhesive ice dam underlayment in cold-weather
climates. Ice dam underlayment helps prevent liquid water from running under the shingles and leaking into your home.

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 Roof Flashing
Roof flashing used with asphalt shingles is typically side of the valley; or you may use any open valley
made of metal: primarily galvanized steel, aluminum, or lining material.
copper. The timing for installing it depends on the type
of flashing. Some, such as valley flashing, is installed 2. Place nails at least 6 inches away from the valley
prior to the finished roof covering (shingles). Other centerline, unless other spacing is approved by the
types, such as step-flashing, is interwoven with the shingle manufacturer.
shingles during the installation process. In some cases,
formable, self-adhesive flashings can be used instead of 3. Apply the shingles across one side of the valley
metal. In some code areas, roll roofing may be used as at least 12 inches, or as recommended by the
valley flashing—check with your building inspector. shingle manufacturer.

Closed-Cut Valley Flashing 4. Apply shingles from the other direction to

1. Before installing the shingles, install valley flashing before the valley centerline, and trim the edges
material according to the shingle manufacturer’s as recommended by the shingle manufacturer.
instructions. You may use at least a 36-inch-wide Seal the cut shingles in a closed-cut valley, as
strip of smooth roll roofing material as valley recommend by the manufacturer. Sealing the cut
flashing material with at least 18 inches on each shingles is frequently omitted.

Woven valleys are a common shingle

valley treatment. Some manufacturers
do not allow these valleys when using
laminated shingles.

Closed-cut valley shingles are cut in a

straight line about 2" from the valley
center line. The cut should be on the
side where the least amount of water is
likely to flow.

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 Chimney Crickets TABLE 23: CHIMNEY CRICKET HEIGHT
1. Install a cricket (also called a saddle) on chimneys
that are more than 30 inches wide in the dimension ROOF SLOPE CRICKET HEIGHT
parallel to the roof ridgeline. A cricket is not 12/12 1/2 W
required if the chimney intersects the roof ridgeline. 8/12 1/3 W
This also applies to factory-built chimneys that are
6/12 1/4 W
installed inside a wood chimney chase.
4/12 1/6 W

2. Flash the cricket at the chimney wall using step 3/12 1/8 W
and counter flashing that is compatible with the
roof covering material.

3. Install the cricket with a vertical height at the

chimney based on Table 23. W is the width of the
chimney. Leave at least a 1-inch air space between a
wood-framed cricket and a masonry chimney wall.

Step Flashing
1. Install step flashing at the intersections of a sloped
roof and a vertical side wall. Use flashing that is at
least 4 inches wide by 4 inches high. Install kick-
out flashing at the end of the wall to direct water
away from the side wall. Cricket

2. Flash the intersection of a sloped roof and a

chimney according to the shingle manufacturer’s
instructions. This typically includes step flashing
covered with counter flashing.

3. Flash other roof penetrations, such as plumbing

and gas vents, according to the shingle
A cricket is a triangle-shaped raised area of a roof installed
manufacturer’s instructions.
on the high side of a chimney to divert water around the
chimney and help prevent leaking at the chimney. Improper
4. Flash skylights according to the skylight installation and flashing of chimney crickets is a common
manufacturer’s instructions. cause of roof leaks.

Flash roof and sidewall intersections Flash all penetrations, such as plumbing Most skylights for residential installation
using step and counter flashing. Install vents and equipment vents, with come with a flashing kit. Improper
kick-out flashing (inset) at the end of preformed flashing, often called boots. installation and flashing of skylights is a
the wall. Make sure the flashing conforms to common cause of roof leaks.
your roof slope.

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 Sheathing
Water-resistive
material Weep holes spacing
≤ 33" o.c. (24" o.c.
recommended) size
Weep ≥ 3⁄ 8 "
flashing (2" gap at joint
Counter flashing between brick
≥ 3" lap ends recommended)
Kickout base flashing
Roof covering
flashing ≥ 4" by underlament
4" recommended Base flashing
angle approx. 110° ≥ 4" vertical
and horizontal

Integrate kickout flashing with sidewall flashing and the water- Flash brick veneer using base and counterflashing that is
resistive material. integrated with the water-resistant material.

Weather-resistant Counterflashing
barrier overlaps optional for
flashing siding Building wrap ≥ 2" Fasteners

Turn underlayment
up wall Counterflashing ≥ 2"

Step flashing Flashing ≥ 4"

≥ 4" by 4"
Roof covering
Underlayment
Underlament
installed Kickout flashing
as required ≥ 4" by 4" recommended
by local conditions Drip edge angle approx. 110°

A properly flashed roof/sidewall intersection includes roof A headwall is where a roof rises to meet a sidewall. Flash
covering underlayment, base and counterflashing, water- headwalls using base and counterflashing integrated with
resistive material, and kickout flashing. water-resistive material.

Roofing Fasteners
Fastener Type & Quantity in Standard manufacturer’s installation instructions is a code
Shingling Conditions violation and may void the manufacturer’s warranty.
1. Use the type and quantity of fasteners
recommended by the shingle manufacturer. 2. Use corrosion-resistant roofing nails (usually
Locate nails on the shingle strip precisely as galvanized steel) with at least a 12-gauge shank and
recommended by the shingle manufacturer. Some a 3⁄8-inch-diameter head. Use nails long enough to
manufacturers recommend installing nails below penetrate into the roof sheathing at least ¾ inch and
the black adhesive seal strip. Other manufacturers completely through any sheathing that is less than
leave a gap in the seal strip for installing nails. Do ¾ inch thick. Install at least four nails per shingle
not install nails above the seal strip unless allowed strip, with a nail at 1 inch from each end and two
by the manufacturer. Failure to comply with nails equally spaced in the center of the strip.

STAPLES AS SHINGLE FASTENERS

Staples are not endorsed in general codes as an approved shingle fastener. Some shingle manufacturers allow staples, but
few recommend them. Avoid using staples as shingle fasteners in both new construction and when replacing an existing
shingle roof.

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 Fireplaces & Chimneys Provide a hearth extension (the area of the floor adjoining the
fireplace) that meets minimum size standards based on
the square footage of the fireplace opening.

I nstalling a factory-built or gas fireplace is a do-it-

yourself project because you can design and build
the fireplace frame to suit your needs and add your
end of the vent) must be 12 inches above the ground
and away from openings, such as windows and doors.
own finish treatments. It all starts with some careful For help with any of these planning issues, talk
planning. Once you decide on the fireplace model and with knowledgeable dealers in your area. They
determine where to place it, order all of the vent pipes can help you choose the best fireplace model for
and fittings needed to complete the vent run. your situation and help you with venting and other
considerations. Remember that all installation
NOTE: Consult the manufacturer’s instructions for specifications are governed by local building codes
the specifications regarding placement, clearances, and that a building permit will be required. Check
and venting methods for your fireplace. with the building department to make sure your
Start your planning by determining the best location plans conform to regulations.
for the fireplace. Placing the unit next to an exterior
wall simplifies the venting required. One important NOTE: The information on pages 104 to 105 apply
specification for a direct-vented gas fireplace located in specifically to masonry fireplaces, but many are
a basement is that the termination cap (on the outside useful guidelines for gas fireplaces as well.

Masonry Fireplace Clearance to Combustible Materials

Masonry Fireplace Hearth Extension instructions. The hearth extension size is often the
Clearance to Combustible Materials same as for a masonry fireplace.
1. The hearth extension is the area in front of the
firebox. It must be made of non-combustible Masonry Fireplace Clearance
material upon which sparks and hot materials to Mantels & Trim
from the firebox may land without starting a fire. 1. Locate all combustible mantels and wood trim at
Tile and masonry units are typical. least 6 inches from a masonry fireplace opening.

2. Build a hearth extension for a masonry fireplace at 2. Provide at least 1 inch of clearance to the masonry
least 16 inches in front of the firebox opening and firebox opening for every ⅛ inch that combustible
at least 8 inches to the sides of the firebox opening, material projects from the fireplace surround. This
if the firebox opening is less than 6 square feet. applies to materials within 12 inches of the fireplace
opening. Example: locate 1-inch-thick fireplace
3. Build a hearth extension for a masonry fireplace at mantel legs at least 8 inches from the fireplace
least 20 inches in front of the firebox opening and opening. Example: locate greater than 12 inches from
at least 12 inches to the side of the firebox opening, the fireplace opening any part of a fireplace mantel
if the firebox opening is 6 square feet or more. or mantel leg that is more than 1½ inches thick.

4. Build a hearth extension for a factory-built 3. Provide clearance to combustible materials for a
fireplace according to the fireplace manufacturer’s factory-built fireplace according to the fireplace

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 manufacturer’s instructions. The clearance is often 4. Do not use a chimney as a vent for one fan-
the same as for a masonry fireplace. assisted, medium efficiency gas furnace.

Spark Arrestor & Rain Cap 5. Do not connect an appliance vent to a masonry
1. You are not required to install a spark arrestor chimney flue if the area of the appliance connector
or a rain cap on a masonry chimney, unless the is larger than the area of the chimney flue.
local building official requires one. They are,
however, recommended to protect the home and 6. Install a permanent label in a conspicuous location
surrounding area from fire and to protect the warning occupants if a chimney has been relined
chimney and home interior from water damage. and warning them what types of appliances may
be connected to the chimney.
2. Comply with all of the following requirements
for installed spark arrestors: (a) make the 7. Have gas appliance vents connected to masonry
unobstructed arrestor area at least four times the chimney flues according to the provisions for gas
area of the flue it serves; (b) make the arrestor appliance vents in IRC Chapter 24.
screen using heat- and corrosion-resistant material
equal to 19-gauge galvanized steel or 24-gauge Wood-Burning Fireplace Energy
stainless steel; (c) build the arrestor screen so it
Efficiency Requirements
does not pass ½-inch-diameter spheres and does
1. Install an air barrier on fireplace walls.
not obstruct ⅜-inch-diameter spheres; (d) make
the arrestor accessible for cleaning and make the
2. Install doors with gaskets at fireplace openings.
cap removable to allow for flue cleaning.
3. Install a tight-fitting flue damper.
Chimney Used as Appliance Vent
1. Have a qualified contractor evaluate a chimney
before using it to vent an appliance, such as a gas
Combustion Air For Fireplaces
1. Provide combustion air from outside for
furnace or water heater, an oil-fired furnace, or
solid fuel-burning masonry and factory-
a pellet stove. Chimneys that are too small may
allow unsafe backdrafting of carbon monoxide built fireplaces. Install combustion air ducts
into your home. Chimneys that are too large may for factory-built fireplaces according to
allow water to condense in the chimney and cause manufacturer’s instructions.
considerable damage to the chimney.
2. Provide combustion air from the outside for
2. Do not use a chimney as a gas appliance vent if vented gas and oil fireplaces according to
any side of the chimney is exposed to the outdoors manufacturer’s instructions.
below the roofline. This means that a chimney
must be completely enclosed within the house 3. Locate the outside combustion air inlet at or
walls until it reaches the attic. below the firebox level. Cover the inlet with a
screen having ¼-inch mesh.
3. You may use a chimney as a vent for one draft
hood-equipped gas water heater if the area of 4. Install combustion air openings and ducts that
the chimney flue as at least as large as the area have an area of at least 6 square inches and not
of the draft hood outlet and not more than seven more than 55 square inches. Use a combustion
times the area of the draft hood outlet. air duct that is designed for that purpose, or keep
the duct at least 1 inch away from combustible
materials within 5 feet from the firebox.
Locate wood trim
far enough from
the firebox to 5. Locate the inside combustion air outlet in the back
avoid fires. or side of the firebox or at hearth level and not
more than 24 inches from the firebox opening.

6. Install a closure mechanism at the combustion

air outlet.

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 Factory-Built Fireplaces
Factory-built fireplaces and chimneys include
components tested, listed, and labeled to be installed
together as a system. Such fireplaces are usually
designed to burn solid fuels, such as wood, though
they may be converted to use gas if approved by the
fireplace manufacturer. Do not mix components
from different manufacturers unless approved by the
fireplace manufacturer.
Fireplaces designed to burn only gas are not really
fireplaces. They are decorative gas appliances. Vented
decorative gas appliances are more like a water
heater than like a fireplace. Unvented decorative
gas appliances are more like a gas range than like a
fireplace. Install and use decorative gas appliances
according to manufacturer’s instructions and IRC
Chapter 24. Note that some jurisdictions do not allow
Create wall surrounds for fireplaces with cementboard,
unvented decorative gas appliances. Also note that which has some heat-resistant qualities and also makes a
manufacturers of unvented decorative gas appliances good backer for ceramic tile—a popular choice for finished
recommend limits on the duration of use. fireplace surrounds.

GAS FIREPLACES

Direct vent gas fireplace Vent-free gas fireplace

Vent Chase
pipe framework
Elbow
(optional)
Blocking
for top
plates

Cripple studs

½" clearance Framework

at back of unit for
fireplace
Header surround

Standoffs
(¼" clearance)

½" clearance
at sides of unit Platform

A gas fireplace behaves more like a water heater than like a fireplace, but these appliances do produce dangerous gases
and are by their very nature a fire hazard. The two most common types are direct-vent gas fireplaces, which produce heat
that can contribute to your home heat plan and are vented to the exterior, and vent-free gas fireplaces (not allowed in
some states) that are purely decorative. Because the amount of gas they consume is so small (comparable to a gas range
with all burners on), they do not require venting.

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 Factory-Built Fireplace
& Chimney Installation
Install factory-built chimneys and
fireplaces according to the manufacturer’s
instructions. These instructions include
requirements for hearth extensions,
clearances to combustible materials, and
installation of combustion air ducts.

Decorative Chimney Covers

Do not install decorative chimney
covers, shrouds, or similar components
at the chimney termination unless the
component is listed and labeled for use
with your particular fireplace system.

Structural Support
for Factory-Built Fireplaces
Provide adequate structural
support for factory-built fireplaces
and chimneys according to Direct-vent gas fireplaces may be vented through a sidewall. Chimneys for
manufacturer’s recommendations. wood-burning fireplaces are vertical.

Vents for gas fireplaces must have a protective termination Factory-built fireplaces (including direct-vent and vent-free
cap (supplied by manufacturer). Note the black stain gas fireplaces) typically require structural support. If the
on the termination. This stain may indicate that the gas fireplace is recessed into a wall, structural support is in the
fireplace is not functioning properly. form of a mounting platform located on the other side.

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 Heating &
Air Conditioning

S afety is the primary focus of code provisions

governing heating and air conditioning systems.
Improper appliance installation can cause the
appliance to malfunction, creating a fire hazard as
well as the potential for carbon monoxide poisoning.
Fuel-burning appliances, such as gas and oil furnaces,
must be installed in safe locations and must be
provided with enough outside air to support fuel
combustion. Vents for these appliances must be
installed so that they do not ignite combustible
materials and so that combustion gases are not
circulated back into the building.
In this chapter you will learn about the safe
installation of heating and air conditioning appliances
and their associated venting equipment. You will
also learn about how to identify improperly installed
forced-air ducts that can increase your energy costs
and decrease your appliance’s useful life.

In this chapter:
• HVAC Appliances
• HVAC Duct Installation
• Combustion Air for Fuel-Burning Appliances
• Vents for Fuel-Burning Appliances

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 HVAC Appliances

H eating, ventilation, and air conditioning systems

are often referred to as a group by the term
HVAC. This is because they share a common purpose:
central air conditioning unit. In most cases, even
when the AC has been retrofitted, the appliances
share ductwork.
to keep the air in your home comfortable. All HVAC The information in this chapter is intended mostly
systems—even hot-water-based systems—rely on the for general education purposes and to assist with
flow of air to heat, cool, and ventilate your home. diagnosing system problems. Unless you are a very
Most homes today include two separate major experienced DIYer, installing and servicing HVAC
appliances in the HVAC system: a furnace and a equipment is a job best left to professionals.

Warm air to house

Cold air return

A
E
A

B
G
C B

D E

J F

H
I
G

Central air conditioner parts include: (A) Power shutoff Gas furnace parts include: (A) Inshot burners, (B) Draft
for service personnel, (B) Condenser unit, (C) Fan, (D) inducer fan, (C) Combustion air pipe, (D) Vent, (E) Heat
Condenser coil, (E) Compressor, (F) Plenum, (G) Evaporator exchanger, (F) Filter, (G) Blower motor.
coil, (H) Blower motor, (I) Filter, (J) Air return.

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 Prohibited Locations 3. You may install one listed, wall-mounted,
for Appliance Installation unvented room heater in a bathroom if the
1. Do not locate gas or other fuel-burning appliances appliance has an oxygen depletion safety shutoff
in bedrooms, bathrooms, toilet rooms, or storage system, the appliance input rating is not more
closets. Do not draw combustion air for any fuel- than 6,000 BTU/hour, and the bathroom satisfies
burning appliance from these rooms regardless of combustion air volume requirements.
where the appliance is located.
4. You may install one listed, wall-mounted,
2. Do not locate appliances anywhere that is not unvented room heater in a bedroom if
approved by the manufacturer’s instructions. the appliance has an oxygen depletion
safety shutoff system, the appliance input
3. Do not apply this provision to appliances powered rating is not more than 10,000 BTU/hour,
only by electricity, such as heat pump air handlers and the bedroom satisfies combustion air
and electric water heaters. volume requirements.

5. You may install appliances in an enclosure

Exceptions: Prohibited Locations accessible from the prohibited locations if all
for Appliance Installation combustion air is drawn directly from the outdoors
1. You may install direct-vent appliances in and the enclosure is equipped with a self-closing
prohibited locations if the appliance draws all door that is weather-stripped.
combustion air directly from the outdoors.
6. The standard combustion air volume requirement
2. You may install vented room heaters, vented is at least 50 cubic feet per 1,000 BTU/hour
wall furnaces, vented decorative appliances, and appliance input rating. This standard volume
decorative appliances listed for installation in requirement does not apply if the home is tightly
vented, solid fuel-burning fireplaces (such as gas sealed with a known air infiltration rate of less
logs) in prohibited locations if the room satisfies than 0.40 air changes per hour. Tightly sealed
combustion air volume requirements. homes are rare.

Warm air
Thermostat

Warm
Register air
duct Cool air

Combustion
Fresh air chamber
intake

Furnace
Blower

Return air duct

A typical forced air heating system delivers heated air to a An air intake vent that draws combustion air into the system
room through registers while drawing cool air through return allows you to install appliances in areas that lack adequate
ducts. The cool air is reheated in the furnace and recirculated combustion air. The vent shown is for a high-efficiency
for maximum efficiency. A fresh air intake provides a constant gas furnace.
supply of combustion air.

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 Electric baseboard heaters
often are used to provide
supplementary heat.
Models (such as the one
here) that do not produce
external temperatures
greater than 125°F may be
mounted directly to drywall
walls, but a clear space
should be maintained
between the appliance and
the floor.

Electric Radiant (Baseboard) Heating Systems

Electric radiant heating systems provide heat to a 2. Install radiant panels parallel to wood framing
single room. They usually have no fan and provide members, and fasten the panels to the surface
heat by natural movement of the heated air and of the framing members or mount the panels
by thermal radiation. They are common in small, between framing members.
seasonally occupied buildings, some rural homes,
and in buildings without ducts for forced-air heating 3. Install fasteners only in areas of the appliance’s
and cooling. These elements become very hot, and radiant panel designed for fasteners. Install fasteners
proper installation is important to prevent fires and at least ¼ inch away from a heating element.
electrical problems.
4. Install radiant panels as complete units, unless
Installation Requirements listed and labeled for field modifications.
1. Install electric radiant heating panels
according to manufacturer’s installation 5. Do not install radiant panels on drywall unless the
instructions and applicable provisions of panel’s maximum operating temperature is not
general and local codes. more than 125 degrees Fahrenheit.

ESTIMATE YOUR HEATER NEEDS

1. Measure the area of the room in sq. ft. (length × width):

2. Divide the area by 10 to get the baseline minimum wattage:

3. Add 5% for each newer window or 10% for each older window:

4. Add 10% for each exterior wall in the room:

5. Add 10% for each exterior door:

6. Add 10% if the space below is not insulated:

7. Add 20% if the space above is not well insulated:

8. Add 10% if the ceiling is more than 8' high:

9. Total of the baseline wattage plus all additions:

10. Divide this number by 250 (the wattage produced per foot of standard baseboard heater):

11. Round up to a whole number. This is the minimum number of feet of heater you need.

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 Appliances Installed in Garages
In warmer areas of the country some major
household appliances are routinely located in garages
to conserve interior floorspace. Water heaters are
code-regulated to be installed in garages. Others,
such as central vacuum units, should be installed
following the manufacturer’s instructions and best
practices, but typically they are not subject to specific
codes beyond applicable wiring, plumbing, and fire
safety codes.

Elevated Appliances in Garages

1. Elevate the appliance ignition source at least
18 inches above the floor when the appliance is
located in a garage or in an unconditioned room
that opens directly into the garage. Appliances
with a potential ignition source include gas and
electric water heaters, gas and electric clothes
dryers, gas and electric furnaces, and heat pumps
with auxiliary resistance-heating elements.
Rooms that open directly into the garage include
storage and utility rooms that are not part of the
conditioned living space. These rooms include
rooms separated from the garage by a door
opening into the garage.

2. Measure the elevation distance to the ignition

source in the equipment, not to the bottom of
the equipment (unless the ignition source is at the
bottom of the equipment).

3. You may install appliances on the floor in rooms

that are adjacent to a garage but do not have an
opening into the garage.

4. You are not required to elevate the ignition source

of flammable vapor ignition resistant (FVIR) gas
water heaters. All new gas water heaters are FVIR
(and have been for many years).

Protection of Appliances from Vehicles

1. Protect HVAC appliances and water heaters from
vehicle impact. The appliance or water heater
does not need to be located in a garage or carport
to qualify for protection from vehicle impact.
General codes do not specify how to provide this
protection. Common protection methods include Appliances, such as water heaters, that are installed in
steel poles called bollards, vehicle tire stops, and a garage must have the ignition source elevated at least
encasing the equipment in substantial framing. 18" off the floor.

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 HVAC Appliance & Duct Sizing
Appliance Sizing allow excessive moisture to remain in the home.
1. Size heating and cooling appliances according Excessive moisture can damage the home and
to The Air Conditioning Contractors of America provide moisture for mold growth.
(ACCA) Manual S or a similar approved method.
Manual S and Manual J account for conditions Duct Design
such as the direction the structure faces, the size 1. Design duct systems according to ACCA Manual D
and type of windows and doors, local temperature or a similar approved method. Contractors should
conditions, and insulation. Contractors should provide a copy of the duct design calculations
provide a copy of the sizing calculations for all for all new construction. Improper duct sizing
new construction and when replacing existing and installation can cause inefficient appliance
appliances. Improper appliance sizing may operation and can cause uneven temperatures in
cause inefficient appliance operation or may the home.

Air Conditioner Condensate Disposal

The process of removing heat from the air is often pipe material. Install the pipe according to the
called air conditioning. Water is a byproduct of air provisions in general codes.
conditioning, because water vapor condenses out
from the air when the air temperature is reduced. 4. Use pipe material use a pipe size that will
In areas with high humidity, air conditioning can accommodate the condensate temperature,
produce significant amounts of water. The water
removed from the air during air conditioning is
called condensate.

Condensate Disposal
Location Requirements
1. Do not discharge condensate onto a street, alley,
or any other place that would create a nuisance.
Some jurisdictions, particularly in warm, moist
areas, require that you discharge condensate away
from the foundation. Verify discharge location
requirements with the local building official.

Condensate Discharge Pipe Requirements

1. Use at least ¾-inch-diameter pipe for primary
and auxiliary condensate discharge pipes. Do not
decrease pipe size between the collection and
discharge point.

2. Install horizontal pipe sections with a uniform

slope in the direction of the discharge point of at
least ⅛ inch in 12 inches.
Condensate from air conditioner units should be directed to a
drain through discharge pipes. NOTE: Due to acidity, avoid
3. Use fittings, primers, cements, hangers, and draining condensate to floor drain in older homes with cast
other components that are compatible with the iron sewer lines.

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 pressure, and flow rate produced by the air 2. Install one of the following auxiliary
conditioning system. condensate systems when an auxiliary
condensate system is required: (a) Install an
5. Install a trap in the primary condensate discharge auxiliary drain pan under the evaporator coil.
pipe according to the appliance manufacturer’s Use a pan that is at least 1½ inches deep and
instructions. The minimum trap depth is often at least 3 inches larger than the evaporator coil
about 2 inches. in both length and width. Construct the pan
using either at least 0.0276-inch galvanized
6. You may use most water supply and drain pipes for sheet metal or at least a 0.0625-inch,
condensate discharge pipes. The most common nonmetallic pan. Slope the pan toward the
condensate discharge pipes are PVC, CPVC, and ABS. discharge pipe connection. Install the auxiliary
discharge pipe using the same materials
7. Connect a condensate pump to the appliance it and methods as the primary discharge pipe.
serves so that the appliance will not operate if Terminate the auxiliary discharge pipe at
the pump will not operate. This applies to pumps a conspicuous point so that the occupants
located in spaces such as attics and crawlspaces. can see when the primary condensate
discharge system is not functioning properly
Condensate Auxiliary (Backup) (a conspicuous point often means above a
System Requirements window). (b) Install a water level cutoff
1. Install an auxiliary condensate system when the switch above the primary condensate
air conditioner evaporator coil is located where discharge pipe where it connects to the
building damaage may occur if the primary evaporator coil and below the evaporator
condensate discharge system malfunctions. coil interior condensate pan overflow rim.
This usually applies to evaporator coils installed Or, you may install the switch in the primary
in or above finished space. Many jurisdictions or secondary discharge pipes. The switch
require auxiliary condensate systems for all air location should allow the switch to shut off
conditioning systems, unless all of the equipment the air conditioner before water overflows into
is located outside the building. the building.

MAINTENANCE TIP: KEEP DISCHARGE TUBES CLEAR

Condensate discharge tubes that run
from your air conditioner evaporator
have a strong tendency to become
clogged with mildew, algae, bacteria,
and other unappealing nuisances. To
prevent clogging, flush the discharge
tube every couple of months with a
solution of 2 tablespoons household
chlorine bleach dissolved into a cup
of hot water.

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 3. Do not expose flexible ducts to direct sunlight,
such as may occur under roof vents. Direct
sunlight can damage the duct outer cover.

4. Extend flexible duct to its full length. Do not leave

excess duct material in a duct run, and do not
compress the duct.
HVAC Duct Installation Duct Support
1. Support flexible ducts using material at least
1½ inches wide. You may support flexible ducts

I mproper duct installation and duct damage are

common problems. Ducts that leak, have sharp
bends, or sag reduce the volume of air that moves
on 1½-inch-wide framing.

2. Support flexible ducts at not more than

through the duct and increase the friction between 4-foot intervals. You may use a fitting or
the air and the duct walls. This causes the HVAC distribution plenum to provide initial flexible
system to work harder and longer than necessary,
duct support.
wasting energy and money.
3. Do not allow flexible duct to sag between supports
more than ½ inch per foot.

Flexible HVAC 4. Support bends in long horizontal runs of flexible

duct at not more than one duct diameter on both
Duct Installation sides of the bend.

General Installation Requirements 5. Support bends in flexible duct that occur near the
1. Install flexible ducts according to manufac- plenum connection. Allow flexible ducts to run at
turer’s installation instructions. The installation least several inches beyond a plenum connection
instructions that follow are based on material before making a bend.
from the Air Diffusion Council. The full, original
version may be downloaded from their website 6. Provide independent support for duct fittings and
(see Resources, page 234). distribution plenums. Support duct fittings at not
more than 1 foot from the fitting.
2. Use flexible ducts that are labeled at least every 36
inches with information, such as the manufacturer’s 7. Support vertical runs of flexible duct at more than
name and the R-value of the duct insulation. 6-foot intervals.

Flexible ductwork may not be bent

at an overly tight angle. The radius Maximum Acceptable Unacceptable
of any curved bend should be no Duct Bend Duct Bend
less than the diameter of the duct.
Duct Duct
diameter diameter

Duct
diameter
Duct
diameter

Radius of curve
≥ 1 duct diameter

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 3. Splice two ducts together using a metal sleeve at
least 4 inches long.

4. Use approved clamps and tape to secure nonmetallic

flexible ducts to metal collars and sleeves.
Intervals between supports (hangers) for flexible HVAC
ductwork can be no more than 4' apart.
5. Use approved tape and mastic to seal duct collars,
plenums, and other fittings to ensure minimum
Duct Bends air leakage.
1. Do not bend flexible ducts at sharp angles across
obstructions, such as framing lumber and pipes. Duct Insulation & Sealing
Such bends reduce the duct area and restrict 1. Insulate HVAC supply ducts located in attics to at
air flow. least R-8. Insulate all other ducts to at least R-6.

2. Do not bend flexible ducts so that the bend radius 2. You are not required to insulate ducts that are
at the centerline is less than one duct diameter. completely within conditioned space.

3. Avoid changing the shape of the duct. The area of 3. Seal ducts, furnaces, air handler, filter boxes,
a round duct is greater than the area of the same junction boxes, and fittings.
duct compressed into an ellipse.
4. Verify duct and air handler sealing with a
Duct Connections & Splices duct pressure test. You may perform this test
1. Connect and splice ducts according to during rough-in or after final installation of the
manufacturer’s instructions. HVAC system. Refer to the IRC for test requirements.

2. Connect flexible ducts to metal collars that are at 5. Do not use framing cavities, such as stud walls and
least 2 inches long. floor framing, as HVAC ducts or plenums.

Prohibited Sources for Return & Outdoor Air

Prohibited Sources of Return Air 2. You may locate outdoor air intake
1. Do not locate a return air register in a closet, openings closer than 10 feet horizontally
bathroom, toilet room, kitchen, garage, mechanical to a contaminant source if the outdoor air
room, furnace room, or an unconditioned attic. intake opening is at least 3 feet below the
contaminant source.
2. Do not locate a return register closer than 10 feet
in any direction to an open combustion chamber 3. Do not locate outdoor air intake openings where
or to a draft hood-equipped appliance. Common objectionable odors, fumes, or flammable vapors
examples of these prohibited sources include a may be present.
fireplace and a water heater.
4. Locate outdoor air intake openings at least 10 feet
3. Do not take more return air from a room or a above a public walkway or driveway.
space than is supplied to that room or space.
5. Do not locate outdoor air intake openings at
Prohibited Sources of Outdoor Air grade level next to a sidewalk, street, alley,
1. Locate outdoor air intake openings connected to or driveway.
forced-air heating and cooling systems at least
10 feet horizontally from contaminant sources, 6. Provide an automatic or gravity-operated damper
including gas equipment vents, chimneys, plumbing for air intake systems that will close the damper
vents, or the discharge outlet of an exhaust fan. when the system is not operating.

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 Combustion Air for Fuel-Burning Appliances

F uel-burning appliances, such as gas furnaces,

boilers, and water heaters, need air to support
the fuel-burning (combustion) process. These
is a health and safety hazard. Appliances operating
without adequate combustion air can cost more to
operate and maintain.
appliances also need air for cooling, ventilation of Do not confuse combustion air with the similar
the appliance, and for proper operation of the vent term “makeup air.” Makeup air replaces air that is
system that expels combustion byproducts outside. exhausted by clothes dryers, exhaust fans, fireplaces,
The air required to support operation of fuel-burning and similar devices.
appliances is called combustion air.
Without adequate combustion air, incomplete fuel Appliances Needing Combustion Air
combustion may occur. Byproducts of incomplete 1. Provide combustion air for Category I gas appliances
fuel combustion can include carbon monoxide and
and for liquid fuel-burning (oil) appliances according
soot that can damage the appliance and its vent. This
to the appliance manufacturer’s recommendations
and to code requirements. Category I gas appliances
include the gas furnaces and water heaters found in
most homes.

2. Provide combustion air for direct vent and for

Category II, III, and IV gas appliances according
to the appliance manufacturer’s instructions. Do
not apply combustion air requirements to these
appliances. Category II appliances do not currently
exist. Category III and IV appliances include
medium and high-efficiency gas appliances that
operate with positive vent pressure.

3. Do not apply combustion air requirements

Fuel for appliances (natural gas, propane, fuel oil) requires an
to fireplaces and fireplace stoves. Refer to
adequate supply of fresh combustion air for efficient burning, other general codes for fireplace combustion
as well as a means of effective venting. air requirements.

COMBUSTION AIR DEPLETION BY OTHER SYSTEMS

Other appliances compete with gas- and oil-burning appliances for combustion air. This can create negative pressure
that can interfere with operation of the gas- and oil-burning appliances and their vents. General codes do not define how
to account for air exhausted by other appliances. Gas- and oil-burning appliances located in or near rooms containing
clothes dryers, exhaust fans, and fireplaces require special attention to ensure that combustion air and venting needs
are satisfied.

Account for air exhausted by appliances (such as clothes dryers, bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans, fireplaces), and
account for combustion air used by other fuel-burning appliances when determining combustion air requirements. This is
important when drawing all combustion air from inside the home.

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 Combustion Air Duct Materials 5. Do not use the same combustion air duct for both
& Construction the upper and lower duct openings.
1. Use galvanized steel to construct combustion
6. Do not install a screen on any combustion air duct
air ducts. Refer to other general codes for duct
opening in the attic.
material specifications.
7. Do not slope horizontal combustion air ducts
2. You may use unobstructed stud and joist spaces as downward toward the source of combustion air.
combustion air ducts if only one required fireblock Make the duct level or slope it toward the appliance.
is removed.
8. Do not use the space in a masonry, metal, or
3. Terminate combustion air ducts in factory-built chimney that surrounds a chimney
unobstructed space that allows free liner, gas vent, plastic piping, or other devices as a
air movement. combustion air duct.

4. Do not open combustion air ducts into more than 9. Locate the lowest point of an exterior combustion
one room or enclosure. air opening at least 12 inches above exterior grade.

AIRTIGHT CONSTRUCTION
Homes built using airtight construction techniques do not
allow enough air infiltration into the home to safely support fuel
combustion. The lack of adequate combustion air can cause
many problems, including the production of carbon monoxide
and soot that can be a health hazard and can damage
appliances and vents. Do not draw combustion air from inside
the home if it is built using airtight construction techniques.
You’ll need to bring it in from outdoors. Even when drawing
combustion air from inside is allowed, it is not considered
best practice. You should consider direct-vented appliances
that draw combustion air from outdoors when replacing
existing appliances.

Although most homes built today use some energy-efficient

construction techniques, few are so tight that they are
considered “airtight” and therefore require supplementary
combustion air. To be considered airtight, a home must
have measured air changes that are less than 0.4 per hour.
You’ll need to contact a qualified building energy analyst to
determine whether your house meets this standard, but here
are some hints: Windows that meet air leakage requirements should
• If your home is airtight, the thermal envelope walls have a come with a rating label from a sanctioned source.
Among these sources are the International Energy
continuous air barrier and any openings in the air barrier
Conservation Code and the National Fenestration
are sealed.
Rating Council, which employs the California Energy
• Doors and operable windows meet air leakage Commission standards for air infiltration.
requirements of the International Energy Conservation Code.

• Gaps and spaces are sealed—including gaps and spaces between windows and doors and the surrounding framing,
between sill plates and floors, between wall and ceiling joints, between wall panels, and at wall penetrations for
utilities, such as plumbing, electrical, and gas.

Older homes rarely satisfy these requirements. Newer homes may satisfy the first two requirements, but it is still rare for
some builders to seal all framing and utility penetration gaps as intended by the third requirement. Many homes may
obtain combustion air from inside the home, but you should verify with the builder if the home was built using airtight
construction techniques.

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 Combustion Air from Within a Room
Combustion air may be drawn from the room where the
appliance is located if the room is large enough. Consult with
an engineer or inspector to help you determine if the room
meets the minimum size requirement for your appliance.

Required room volume is at least 50 cu. ft. per

1,000 BTU input for all appliances in the room.

Combustion Air Using One Permanent Opening

to Outdoors
Illo 161
Import combustion air by creating one permanent opening to
the outdoors. To do this, draw air in from an opening in an
A - Attic
B - Exterior through roof

CG_Codes
exterior wall or from an opening in the roof.
C - Exterior through wall

06-15-2009
B
A
One air intake opening of at least 1 sq. in. C
per 3,000 BTU input for all appliances
in the room. Terminate the opening within
12" from the ceiling.

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 The material in this section deals with vents for
low- and medium-efficiency appliances. Fewer of
these appliances are being installed in favor of high-
efficiency appliances and appliances with special venting
requirements. Examples of special-vented appliances
include high-efficiency gas furnaces (vented with plastic
pipe), sidewall-vented appliances, and appliances using

Vents for Fuel-Burning positive pressure vent systems. Do not apply the material
in this section to special-vented appliances.

Appliances
Venting of special-vented appliances is governed
by the appliance manufacturer’s instructions. These
instructions will vary by manufacturer and by
appliance model. Thus, the only way to determine if

A vent is generally a vertical component, such as a a special-vented appliance vent is installed properly
metal pipe, that conducts combustion products is to compare the appliance vent installation to the
from a gas- or oil-burning appliance to the outdoors. A instructions for the appliance in question.
vent for a single appliance begins at the fitting where Vents for special-vented appliances are frequently
the vent connector, if any, connects to the vent. A improperly installed. Proper vent (and combustion air)
common vent for multiple appliances begins at the installation is important for proper and safe appliance
highest connector fitting. If a vent is located directly operation. It is a good idea to evaluate and confirm
over the appliance draft hood or flue collar, or if the vent installation for special-vented appliances.
vent connects directly to the appliance, then the vent
begins at the appliance and there is no vent connector.
A vent connector is a pipe that connects an
appliance to its vent or flue. A vent connector is D
required if the appliance is not located directly
under its vent. A vent connector for a Category I gas
appliance may be a listed vent material, such as a F

Type B vent; a listed flexible vent connector; or a field-

constructed, single-wall metal pipe made of at least
28-gauge galvanized steel. While a vent connector is A
part of the venting system, it is not the vent itself.
Common types of vents and vent connectors
include the Type B vent used with most B E
gas appliances, Type L vents used with oil- C

burning appliances, flexible connectors used with Vent connectors and fittings include: (A) Single wall-vent
gas appliances, and single-wall connectors that may connector; (B) Type B elbow; (C) Type B vent; (D) Type L
be used with either gas or oil-burning appliances. vent; (E, F) vent caps.

Vent
Vent

Vent height Vent

for vent connector
& vent Vent
connector connector Lateral Lateral

Vents and vent connectors often look the same, but they have different installation requirements.

HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING 121

Illo 163 Illo 163Illo 163
CG_CodesCG_Codes CG_Codes
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 Vent Clearance to Combustible Materials
1. Provide the distance between a vent or a vent
connector and combustible materials based
on the vent or vent connector manufacturer’s
installation instructions and based on the
appliance manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Table 24 contains typical clearance distances
for common types of vents and vent connectors.
Confirm the distances in Table 24 with the
appliance manufacturer’s instructions and the
vent manufacturer’s instructions.

Vent Clearance to Roof & Obstructions

1. Terminate a Type L vent at least 2 feet above the
roof and at least 2 feet above any part of the home
within 10 feet of the vent. Measure termination
height above the roof from the highest point where
the vent penetrates the roof to the bottom of the Avoid fires by maintaining distance between vents and
combustible materials.
vent cap.

2. Terminate a masonry chimney at least 3 feet vertical obstruction. Terminate these vents at
above the roof and at least 2 feet above any part least 2 feet higher than the highest point where
of the building within 10 feet of the chimney. the vent penetrates the roof and at least 2 feet
Measure termination height above the roof from higher than any part of the roof or building within
the highest point where the chimney penetrates 10 feet horizontally.
the roof to where the flue exits the chimney.
This provision also applies to many factory- 5. Terminate all vents and chimneys at least 8 feet
built chimneys. Confirm factory-built chimney horizontally from operable windows unless the
termination height using the manufacturer’s vent is at least 3 feet above the window.
installation instructions.
6. Do not install a vent terminal where a door
3. Use Table 25 to determine the minimum height can swing within 12 inches horizontally from
above the roof of a Type B gas vent not more than the vent terminal. This will apply mostly to direct
12 inches in diameter. Measure termination height vent terminals.
above the roof from the highest point where the
vent penetrates the roof to the bottom of the 7. Do not install a decorative shroud or surround at
listed cap. For thick roof-covering materials, such a vent termination unless the shroud or surround
as tile, measure from the tile to the bottom of the is listed for use with the specific venting system
listed cap. and unless the shroud or surround is installed
according to manufacturer’s instructions. This
4. Do not use Table 25 if a Type B vent is closer than prevents an unlisted shroud from interfering with
8 feet to a vertical side wall, gable end, or similar the drafting characteristics of the vent system.

TABLE 24: TYPICAL CLEARANCE DISTANCES TO COMBUSTIBLE

MATERIALS FOR COMMON TYPES OF VENTS & VENT CONNECTORS
VENT OR CONNECTOR TYPE APPLICATION TYPICAL CLEARANCE DISTANCE
Type B vent & vent connector Category I gas appliance 1"
Type L vent & vent connector Oil‐burning & Category I gas appliance 3"
Single‐wall vent & vent connector Category I gas appliance 6"
Single‐wall vent & vent connector Oil‐burning appliance listed for Type L vent 9"

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 Joints Between Vents TABLE 25: TYPE B GAS VENT HEIGHT
& Vent Connector Sections ABOVE ROOF
1. Secure joints between the vent or vent connector
and the flue collar or draft hood, vent or vent ROOF PITCH MIN. VENT HEIGHT
connector sections, and vent connector and the vent Flat to 6/12 12"
using (a) sheet metal screws (usually three); (b) listed, Over 6/12 to 7/12 15"
interlocking vent material (such as Type B vent) Over 7/12 to 8/12 18"
connected according to the vent manufacturer’s
Over 8/12 to 9/12 24"
instructions; or (c) other approved means.
Over 9/12 to 10/12 30"

Slope of Vents & Vent Connectors Over 10/12 to 11/12 39"

1. Slope vents and vent connectors up toward the roof Over 11/12 to 12/12 48"
termination at least ¼ inch per foot. Do not allow Over 12/12 to 14/12 60"
any dips or sags in the vent or vent connector. Over 14/12 to 16/12 72"
Over 16/12 to 18/12 84"
Appliances Not Requiring a Vent Over 18/12 to 20/12 90"
1. You are not required to vent the following gas
appliances: (a) ranges and other domestic cooking
appliances listed and labeled for optional venting;
(b) domestic (Type 1) clothes dryers; (c) portable, 2. Verify venting requirements using manufacturer’s
countertop, and similar small kitchen and laundry instructions. Some manufacturers of appliances
appliances; (d) gas-fueled refrigerators; (e) listed, such as unvented gas fireplaces recommend
unvented room heaters; and (f) listed, unvented limiting the duration of use and/or opening a
decorative gas appliances (unvented gas fireplaces). window while the appliance is operating.

A gas vent roof

terminator cap
protects the vent
from moisture
and pests. These
caps are designed
so they do not
impede or restrict
air flow.

SAFETY TIP
Always have combustion vent installations diagnosed and inspected by a qualified professional.

HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING 123

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 Plumbing System

P lumbing projects are popular among do-it-

yourselfers, so naturally there’s a strong demand
for information on home plumbing subjects to make
sure home projects are accomplished correctly. Water
supply pipes must be properly sized, supported, and
connected to avoid water leaks and low water flow
at fixtures.
Wastewater drain pipes must be properly installed
to avoid water leaks and sewage backups. Traps and
vents must be correctly hooked up in drain lines.
Finally, in this chapter you’ll learn basic
requirements for installing water supply pipes and
water drain and vent pipes, as well as for installing
common plumbing fixtures, such as water heaters,
faucets, tubs, and showers.

In this chapter:
• The Home Plumbing System
• Water Supply Piping
• Drain, Waste & Vent Piping (DWV)
• Plumbing Vents
• Plumbing Traps
• Plumbing Appliances & Fixtures

PLUMBING SYSTEM 125

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 DEFINITIONS OF PLUMBING TERMS
Air admittance valve: An air admittance valve (AAV) is foundation, where it connects with the building sewer. A
a one-way valve attached to a plumbing vent pipe. It is building with fixtures below the building drain (such as in
used when extending a vent to the roof or to another vent a basement) has a building sub-drain. Material in a sub-
is impractical or not desirable. The valve allows air into drain must be pumped up to the building drain.
the vent system when there is negative pressure in the
Building sewer: Building sewer usually refers to the pipes
vent pipe and closes to limit the flow of sewer gas into
beginning at the building drain and ending at the public
the home. sewer or septic tank.
Branch drain: A branch drain is a drainage pipe that takes Drainpipe: Drainpipe usually refers to the pipes inside
soil and waste from fixture drains to a stack or to the the building that take soil and waste to the building
building drain. sewer pipe.
Branch vent: A branch vent connects other vents, usually Fittings: These are devices that connect parts of the
individual and common vents, to a vent stack or stack vent. plumbing system together and allow pipes to change
Braze (brazing): A method of joining metal pipe (such direction. Drainage fittings include wyes, sweeps, bends,
as copper and brass) at temperatures exceeding tees, and couplings. Water supply fittings include elbows,
1,000 degrees Fahrenheit. Brazing is sometimes called tees, couplings, and valves.
“silver soldering,” because it uses a silver alloy as Fixture: Any device that connects to water supply pipes
the brazing material. Brazed joints are stronger than and connects to plumbing waste pipes is a fixture. Fixtures
soldered joints. include toilets (water closets), bathroom sinks (lavatories),
kitchen and laundry sinks, bathtubs, and showers.
Building drain: The building drain is usually the lowest
horizontal drainpipe in the building and collects material Fixture drain: This horizontal pipe between a trap outlet
from branches and stacks. It extends to 30" beyond the and the fitting connects it to another drain pipe. A fixture

Fitting (compression)

The AAV has been endorsed as a substitute for exterior vent The general term “fitting” is for any device from any
termination by most codes. material that is used to connect plumbing pipes. A brass
compression fitting for copper supply pipe is shown here.

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 Drain tailpiece

Drain stubout

Trap arm

The hub is the enlarged fitting, usually in cast-iron drain

pipe. The spigot is the end of the pipe that fits into the hub.

drain is sometimes called a “trap arm.” Any pipe after the

fixture drain fitting is not part of the fixture drain.
The fixture drain, or trap arm, is a piece of drain tubing that
connects a fixture and its drain line to the drain stub-out in Hub: An enlarged opening molded on the end of a pipe
the wall or floor. or a fitting into which a section of pipe (the spigot) is
inserted is a hub. In older plumbing, cast-iron hubs
and spigots were sealed with oakum or hemp and lead.
In modern plumbing, you may seal cast-iron hubs and
spigots with an elastomeric O-ring gasket, or you may
remove the hub and convert the pipe into a hubless pipe.
Hubless pipe joints are often sealed by an elastomeric
sleeve held in place by stainless steel rings (also called a
banded coupling).

Laundry tray: A sink, usually located in a laundry area,

used for various laundry-related and other purposes, is
also known as a laundry sink or a deep sink. You may
discharge a clothes washing machine into a laundry tray
instead of a standpipe.

Offset: In a vertical drainpipe (drain stack), offsets change

in direction in the pipe from vertical to an angle other than
vertical, then back to vertical. Offsets are most often used
to run a stack around an obstruction (such as a wall or
beam) that cannot be drilled or notched. An offset that
is not more than 45 degrees from vertical is defined to
be vertical.

Receptor (indirect waste): The term receptor refers to

a device such as a floor sink or a floor drain. Indirect
waste receptors have a source of water that is not directly
An indirect waste receptor collects drain water from a and permanently connected to the receptor. Example: a
source and introduces it to the drain system, but it is not floor drain could receive condensate water from an air
connected directly to the wastewater source. Floor drains conditioning system. The condensate drain is not directly
(above) are common indirect receptors. and permanently connected to the floor drain.

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 DEFINITIONS OF PLUMBING TERMS

Install slip joints only on accessible traps.

Saddle fitting: A saddle fitting is a connection between

pipes where a new pipe is attached to an existing pipe
by puncturing the existing pipe and clamping the new Saddle fittings are prohibited on drainage pipes, but they
are sometimes used in low volume applications such
pipe to the existing pipe. Saddle fittings are prohibited
as this water filter discharge tube. Ask your building
on water supply pipes, but are sometimes used to tap
department if saddle fittings are allowed in your area.
existing water supply pipes for low volume applications,
such as refrigerator ice-makers and reverse osmosis water
treatment systems. Saddle fittings are also prohibited
in drainage pipes, but are often used in low volume
applications, such as reverse osmosis water treatment
system discharge tubing connection to trap arms.

Slip joint: A hand-tightened joint installed on tubular waste

pipes between a fixture outlet and waste pipes. Slip joints
are most common at the inlet and outlet sides of traps.
Slip joints allow easy removal of the trap for cleaning. Slip
joints must be accessible by an opening at least 12" in the
smallest dimension.

Soil: Material in the plumbing drainage system that

contains urine or fecal material.

Solder (soldering): A method of joining metal pipe (such as

copper and brass) at temperatures that do not exceed 800
degrees Fahrenheit. Soldering usually uses a tin alloy as the
joining material. Soldered joints are weaker than brazed joints.

Stack: A stack is a vertical plumbing drain or waste pipe

that extends one or more stories. A stack collects waste
material from horizontal drainage pipes and conducts it to
the building drain or other horizontal drain.

Stack vent: A dry vent that connects to a soil or waste stack Soldering is a technique, often called “sweating,” that’s
above the highest horizontal drainage connection and may used to join copper and brass tubing and fittings. It is
extend through the roof to the outdoors or may terminate weaker than brazing, but code approved for virtually all
with a stack-type air admittance valve. residential plumbing joints.

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 Standpipe: A vertical pipe used as an indirect waste Plumbing vents usually terminate on the roof, although
receptor. Standpipes are most often used as the receptor mechanical vents (called air admittance valves) are allowed
for a clothes washing machine. in some circumstances.

Stop-and-waste valve: A water supply valve with an opening Vent stack: Dry vent that connects at or near the
that allows draining of the non-pressure side. These valves connection of a soil or waste stack and a horizontal drain.
are most common in cold climates and are used to protect A vent stack runs vertically and often runs parallel to the
exterior water fixtures from freeze damage. soil or waste stack that it vents.

Tailpiece: A tailpiece is a short piece of vertical pipe that Yard hydrant (freeze proof): A freeze proof yard hydrant
runs from the plumbing fixture waste outlet (drain) to the is an outdoor water supply outlet that has a valve and
inlet side of the fixture’s trap. outlet aboveground and a drain opening below the frost
level. When the valve is opened, water flows. When the
Trap: A trap is a fitting, usually located either inside or valve is closed, the water supply to the hydrant is shut off
under fixtures, that prevents sewer gases from escaping below the frost level and a drain hole is opened that allows
from the plumbing waste pipes. Traps maintain a water the water in the yard hydrant pipe to drain into a gravel
seal (trap seal) extending from the trap’s crown weir to its bed. This drains the yard hydrant and its riser so that the
dip. Vents help protect the water seal from siphoning. hydrant will not freeze.
Vent: Pipe or mechanical device that allows air into Waste: Liquid material in the plumbing drainage system
the plumbing drainpipes to equalize air pressure in the that does not contain urine or fecal material. Waste is
pipes. Plumbing vents help avoid draining (siphoning) sometimes referred to as gray water. Waste comes from all
traps and help wastewater flow freely through the system. plumbing fixtures except toilets and urinals.

Chromed
brass P-trap

P-trap for
wall drain
S-trap for floor
drain (prohibited
in new construction)

A standpipe is an open pipe mounted vertically and leading Traps are the S- or P-shaped pipes in a fixture drain. Their
into a branch drain system. Standpipes often are installed purpose is to prevent sewer gas from coming up through
as receptors for washing machine discharge tubes. the drain opening.

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 The Home Plumbing System

Roof vent

Stack vent
Branch vent

Vent pipe

Trap

Water heater
Branch pipe

Waste
Branch drain
stack
Main
shutoff
valve

Water meter

Hot water supply pipes

Floor drain
Cold water supply pipes

Drain pipes
Building drain
Vent pipes

Main water Building sewer

supply pipe

130

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 Water Supply Piping

W ater supply pipes carry hot and cold water

throughout a house. In homes built before
1960, the original supply pipes were usually made
floor joists. They are sometimes run in the attic in
warm climates.
Hot and cold water supply pipes are connected to
of galvanized steel. Newer homes have supply pipes most fixtures and appliances. Fixtures include sinks,
made of copper. In most areas of the country, supply tubs, and showers. Some fixtures, such as toilets
pipes made of rigid plastic or PEX are accepted by and hose bibbs, are supplied only by cold water.
local plumbing codes. Appliances include dishwashers and clothes washers.
Water supply pipes are made to withstand the A refrigerator icemaker uses only cold water. Tradition
high pressures of the water supply system. They and codes say that hot water supply pipes and faucet
have small diameters, usually ½ inch to 1 inch, handles are found on the left-hand side of a fixture,
and are joined with strong, watertight fittings. The with cold water on the right.
hot and cold pipes run in tandem to most parts Because it is pressurized, the water supply system
of the house. Usually, the supply pipes run inside is prone to leaks. This is especially true of galvanized
wall cavities or are strapped to the undersides of iron pipe, which has limited resistance to corrosion.

HOT WATER SUPPLY SYSTEM COLD WATER SUPPLY SYSTEM

Hot water
supply lines
Cold water
supply lines

In from municipal
water supply

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 Water Pressure vs. Water Flow
Water flow and water pressure are often confused. Water 80 psi, can cause
flow is the amount of water you can get from a full premature failure
water pipe. Water pressure is the amount of force that of water supply
the water exerts on the walls of a full water pipe. Once pipes and fixtures.
a pipe is full of water, a water pressure increase will A pressure regulator
not increase the water flow in the pipe. In fact, a water is recommended Install a pressure regulator
pressure increase beyond a certain amount will cause to reduce excessive when the water pressure
the pipe to burst. The ideal water pressure is between water pressure. exceeds 80 psi.
40 and 60 pounds per square inch (psi).
Water flow is primarily a function of the size, Minimum & Maximum Water Pressure
type, and installation of water supply pipes and 1. Provide each dwelling with enough water pressure
supply fixtures. You can achieve more flow in a larger to provide adequate water flow at all fixtures.
pipe than you can in a smaller pipe. Different pipe There is no specific minimum water pressure. This
materials, such as PEX and copper, have different applies to both public and private (well supplied)
flow rates for the same size pipe. Many current water water supplies.
supply fixtures have flow restriction devices that limit
the water flow rate to conserve water. 2. Do not exceed 80 psi static water pressure.
Water pressure is primarily a function of the force
behind the water as it enters the piping system. A 3. Install an approved pressure regulator at the main
system with too little water pressure may not provide water supply connection to the dwelling if the
sufficient water flow when multiple supply fixtures static pressure exceeds the maximum. Measure
are being used. Too much water pressure, exceeding the water pressure to the point where the water
supply enters the building as closely as possible.

TABLE 26: MIN. WATER FLOW RATE Minimum Flow Rate at Fixtures
AT FIXTURE SUPPLY PIPE 1. Provide at least the water flow rate in Table 26 for
the indicated fixtures. Water flow rate is measured
FIXTURE MINIMUM FLOW RATE (GPM) in gallons per minute (gpm). Water flow rate
Bathtub 4 means the water flow from the pipe without the
Bidet 2 fixture attached. The water flow rate in the table
Dishwasher 2.75 does not mean that the water flow from the fixture
Hose bibb 5 must be at least the amount in the table. Some
Laundry tub 4
fixtures contain required flow restrictors that will
limit the actual water flow from the fixture to less
Lavatory 0.8
than the water flow rate in the table. Example: the
Shower 2.5
minimum water flow rate for a shower is 3 gallons
Sink 1.75 per minute, but the maximum flow-restricted rate
from the showerhead is 2.5 gallons per minute.

TABLE 27: MAX. WATER FLOW RATE Maximum Flow Rate at Fixtures
AT FIXTURE 1. Use fixtures that allow a water flow rate that is not
more than the flow rate in Table 27. Water flow
FIXTURE MAXIMUM WATER FLOW RATE rate is measured in gallons per minute (gpm). If
AT DESIGN PRESSURE either the water supply pressure to the building
Lavatory 2.2 gpm at 60 psi or the water pressure loss in the pipes reduces the
Shower head 2.5 gpm at 80 psi water pressure at the fixture to less than the design
Sink 2.2 gpm at 60 psi pressure, the flow rate at a flow-restricted fixture
may be less than the maximum.

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 Common Water Distribution Pipes TABLE 28: COMMON WATER
1. Install water service pipe that has a working
DISTRIBUTION PIPE MATERIALS
pressure rating of at least 160 psi at 73 degrees
Fahrenheit or the highest available pressure, COMMON WATER DISTRIBUTION APPROVED FOR USE UNDER
whichever is greater. PIPE MATERIALS CONCRETE SLABS

CPVC plastic pipe yes

2. Common water distribution pipe materials used in
Copper & copper alloy Copper tubing,
modern residential construction include those in
pipe & tubing minimum Type M
Table 28.
PEX‐AL‐PEX pipe yes

3. You may use other approved materials if allowed PEX tubing yes
by local codes. Copper, CPVC, and PEX are the PE‐AL‐PE pipe yes
most common water distribution pipes.

Water supply pipes include: copper,

Copper CPVC PEX
CPVC, and PEX (blue for cold, red
for hot).

Fittings for water supply lines include:

(A) CPVC tee, elbow and coupling;
(B) copper tees and elbows; (C) brass
A
compression fittings; (D) brass fittings,
with barbs.

B
C

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 Water Distribution Pipe Joints 5. You may use mechanical fittings to connect
& Connections pipes made from the same materials and pipes
1. Use fittings made from the same material as the made from different materials. Install the fittings
pipe when connecting pipes made from the same according to manufacturer's instructions.
material. Example: use copper fittings to connect
copper pipe and CPVC fittings to connect CPVC Flexible Water Connectors
pipe. Use solder or brazing to connect copper 1. Use flexible water connectors to connect water
pipes. Use PVC cement and primer to connect supply pipes to appliances and fixtures. Examples
CPVC pipes. of proper uses of flexible water connectors:
connecting water supply pipes and a water
2. You may use flared fittings to make connections heater, connecting valves and a clothes washing
between soft copper water tubing and valves and machine or a dishwashing machine, connecting a
fixtures. Use approved fittings and a flaring tool to refrigerator icemaker and a valve, and connecting
form and connect these joints. a valve and a faucet.

3. Use fittings and crimping tools approved by the 2. Use a flexible water connector that is approved for
tubing manufacturer when connecting PEX and the application. Example: do not use a connector
other water supply materials to each other. Most intended for a clothes washing machine to connect
homeowners should not attempt to install PEX a water heater to the hot water supply pipe.
and similar materials using these fittings and tools
because this requires training and experience. 3. Do not run flexible water connectors through
walls, ceilings, and floors or in concealed spaces.
4. Use push-fit fittings only with copper tubing,
CPVC, and PEX. Do not use push-fit fittings with 4. Do not use flexible water connectors as a
other pipe and tubing, such as polybutylene. substitute for permanent water supply pipes.

Using fittings made from the same Using mechanical fittings is a good (but Use flexible water connectors according
material as the pipe is the least more expensive) way for homeowners to manufacturer's instructions. Avoid
expensive way to connect pipes. to connect different pipe types together using plastic tubing. This material
and to connect pipes of the same can burst and cause significant
type together. water damage.

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 TABLE 29: PLUMBING PIPE SUPPORT, WATER SUPPLY & DWV PIPES
PIPE MAXIMUM HORIZONTAL MAXIMUM VERTICAL MID STORY GUIDE
MATERIAL SPACING SPACING REQ’D FOR PIPE DIA. ≤ 2"
ABS pipe 48" 120" yes
Cast-iron pipe 60"* 180" no
Copper tubing (≤ 1 ⁄4" dia.)
1
72" 120" no
Copper tubing (≥ 1 ⁄2" dia.)
1
120" 120" no
CPVC pipe or tubing (≤ 1" dia.) 36" 120" yes
CPVC pipe or tubing (≥ 11⁄4" dia.) 48" 120" yes
Polybutylene (PB) pipe or tubing 32" 48" no
PEX 32" 120" yes
PEX‐AL‐PEX and PE‐AL‐PE 32" 48" yes
PVC pipe 48" 120" yes
Steel pipe 144" 180" no
* You may increase cast-iron pipe horizontal spacing to 120" when using 10' pipe lengths.

Pipe Support
1. Support pipes so they will maintain alignment and will
not sag. A

2. Support and install pipes so they can move with the normal B
expansion and contraction of the piping system without
scraping or rubbing against supports or framing materials.

3. Use pipe supports that will carry the weight of the pipe
and that are sufficiently wide to prevent crimping and
distortion of the pipe.

4. Use pipe supports that will not cause corrosion or

C
galvanic reaction between the pipe and the support.
Example: do not use steel supports with copper pipe or
copper supports with cast-iron pipe.
C
5. Provide rigid sway bracing at changes in pipe direction more
than 45 degrees for pipe sizes at least 4 inches in diameter.

6. Provide horizontal and vertical support for pipes Support hangers and clamps for: CPVC and PVC (A),
according to Table 30 (see page 138). Copper (B), PEX (C).

Support copper tubing with compatible Support for PEX tubing is particularly Provide vertical support for pipes
hangers. important near manifolds and fittings. running parallel to wall studs. Install
supports according to Table 29.

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 Protecting Pipes from Freezing
1. Do not install water supply and waste pipes
outside of a building, in exterior building walls,
in attics and crawl spaces, or in any other place
subject to freezing temperatures, unless the pipes
are protected by insulation or heat or both.

2. Install water service pipe at least 12 inches deep or

at least 6 inches below the frost line.

3. Verify minimum water service and building sewer

pipe depth with the local building official.
Protect pipes 1½" from the edges of studs and joists.
4. Apply these requirements only to areas with
Protecting Pipes from Puncture a winter design temperature of 32 degrees
Fahrenheit or less.
& Corrosion
1. Protect plumbing pipes (other than cast iron or
galvanized steel) with shield plates, if the pipe is Fixture Cutoff Valve (Angle Stop)
run through holes that are closer than 1¼ inches 1. Provide each plumbing fixture, except for bathtubs
from the edge of studs, joists, rafters, or similar and showers, with an accessible cutoff valve on
framing members. Extend the shield plate at least the hot and cold water supply pipes. These valves
2 inches below top plates and at least 2 inches are sometimes called “angle stop valves.” You may
above bottom plates. install cutoff valves at bathtubs and showers, but
these valves are not required.
2. Use shield plates at least 1⁄16-inch thick.
Valves & Outlets Installed Below Ground
3. Apply these rules to pipes running through holes 1. Do not install water supply outlets and stop-and-
and notches in framing materials. While not waste valves below ground. Example: do not install
required by most general codes, it is a best practice a hose bibb below ground.
to protect pipes (other than cast iron or galvanized
steel) that are closer than 1½ inches from the 2. You may install a freeze-proof yard hydrant below
edge of framing materials. The most common ground if the water supply to the hydrant is
example of such pipes is a pipe installed parallel to protected with a backflow preventer and the yard
the edge of a stud or joist. hydrant is permanently labeled as a “non-potable
water source.”
4. Protect copper plumbing pipe from corrosion
where it passes through masonry or concrete. You Hose Bibb Cutoff Valve
may use pipe wrapping material designed for this 1. Provide hose bibbs that are subject to freezing
purpose, or you may enclose the pipe in a sleeve. with a stop-and-waste valve inside the building.
This includes frost-proof hose bibbs.
5. Protect gas pipes, other than steel, with shield plates
if the pipe is closer than 1½ inches from the edge 2. You need not install a stop-and-waste valve on
of studs, joists, rafters, or similar framing members. a frost-proof hose bibb if the stem extends into
Extend the shield plate at least 4 inches below top an open heated or semi-conditioned area of
plates and at least 4 inches above bottom plates. the building.

Hose bibbs that

are subject to
freezing require Foundation
Branch drain
wall
a stop-and-waste
valve inside
the building.

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 not part of the supply system, lead drainpipes pose
no health hazard. However, lead pipes are no longer
manufactured for home plumbing systems.
Drainpipes have diameters ranging from 1¼ inches
to 4 inches. These large diameters allow waste to pass
through easily.
Traps are an important part of the drain system.
Drain, Waste & Vent These curved sections of drainpipe hold standing
water, and they are usually found near any drain
Piping (DWV) opening. The standing water of a trap prevents sewer
gases from backing up into the home. Each time a
drain is used, the standing trap water is flushed away
and replaced by new water.

D rainpipes use gravity to carry wastewater away

from fixtures, appliances, and other drains. This
wastewater is carried out of the house to a municipal
In order to work properly, the drain system requires
air. Air protects trap from being drained. To allow
air into the drain system, drainpipes are connected
sewer system or septic tank. to vent pipes. All drain systems must include vents,
Drainpipes are usually plastic or cast iron. In and the entire system is called the drain-waste-vent
some older homes, drainpipes may be made of (DWV) system. One or more vents, located on the roof,
copper, galvanized steel, or lead. Because they are provide the air needed for the DWV system to work.

Stack

Vent pipes

Trap

Branch drain

Drain pipes
Waste stack

Building drain

Out to municipal sewer or septic tank

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 B

Use vent tee fittings only in vent pipes, not in drain pipes Common sewer pipe materials PVC (A) or ABS (B) are allowed
that carry wastewater. Drain pipes must maintain a minimum for use in DWV systems. Cast iron is also allowed but is rarely
2 percent slope. used in residential construction.

Drain & Sewer Pipe General Requirements the specific type of pipe or installation, joints
1. Install fittings that have a smooth interior surface between different pipe diameters made with
and are compatible with the pipe to which they are elastomeric rolling O-rings, solvent-cement
attached. Example: do not use ABS fittings with joints between different types of plastic pipe, and
PVC pipe. saddle fittings.

2. Do not use fittings that contain ledges, shoulders, Common DWV Pipe Material
or reductions that may retard or obstruct 1. You may use any of the common drainage and
drainage flow. sewer pipe materials listed in Table 30. You may
use other materials listed if approved by your
3. Install fittings that maintain a 2 percent slope and local codes.
are approved for use where installed. Example:
do not use a vent tee in a drainage pipe where 2. Install galvanized steel drainage pipe at least
water flows. 6 inches above the ground.

4. Do not use threaded connections in pipes where

the threads run on the inside of the pipe and could TABLE 30: COMMON DRAINAGE
retard or obstruct drainage flow. & SEWER PIPE MATERIALS
5. Do not drill, tap, burn, or weld drainage, sewer, or COMMON DRAINAGE USED USED FOR
& SEWER PIPE MATERIALS FOR DRAINAGE SEWER
vent pipes. Example: do not drill into a vent pipe to
insert the discharge hose from a water softener. Cast-iron soil pipe yes yes
ABS-DWV pipe yes yes
6. Do not use the following types of joints and PVC-DWV pipe yes yes
connections: cement or concrete, mastic or Steel pipe (black or galvanized) yes no
hot-pour bituminous, fittings not approved for

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 Water Closet Connection Slip Joints
between Closet Flange & Pipe 1. Use slip joints only between the fixture outlet and
1. You may use a 3-inch quarter bend to connect to a the connection with the drainage pipe.
closet flange if you install a 4-inch-by-3-inch flange
to receive the closet fixture horn. 2. Provide slip joints with access of at least 12 by
12 inches.
2. You may use a 4-inch-by-3-inch reducing closet
bend to connect to the closet flange.

Tailpieces
1. Provide sinks, dishwashers, laundry tubs, and
similar fixtures with tailpieces and traps at least
1½ inches in diameter.

2. Provide vanity sinks, bidets, and similar fixtures

with tailpieces and traps at least 1¼ inches.

Drain tailpieces must match the diameter of the other pipes

in the drain kit: 1¼ or 1½" depending on the type of fixture
being drained.

4 × 3 reducing closet bend (horn).

VIOLATION! Flexible, ribbed material may be used only in a

Chromed P-trap with slip joints on lavatory sink. vertical direction as a sink tailpiece.

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 DWV FITTING DESCRIPTIONS
Bend (Elbow): A bend is a drainage fitting used to type of closet flange allows you to offset the closet flange
change the direction of flow. A bend is often called an around a floor joist.
elbow. Bends are available as a single fitting with two
Coupling: A fitting used to join two lengths of pipe in a
openings, and some are available as a double fitting
straight line. It has two female openings, one on each end.
with three or more openings. Some bends have inlets
in addition to the openings. Use vent bends only in Inlet: An additional opening in a fitting. A low-heel-inlet is
the dry vent sections of vent pipes. Quarter bends are located in a straight line with one opening of the fitting.
sometimes called short sweeps in plastic pipes. See the A high-heel-inlet is located above the curved portion of the
definition of sweep. Quarter bends with a longer turn fitting. A side-inlet occurs on one side of the fitting.
radius are sometimes called long turn quarter bends or
long sweeps. Bends are made with the angles shown in
Table 31.
TABLE 31: BEND DIRECTION CHANGE
Closet bend: A fitting used to connect a closet flange (a
part of your toilet drain system) to other plumbing pipes. BEND NAME DIRECTION CHANGE
Closet bends often reduce the pipe size from the 4" of the 1
⁄4 bend 90°
closet flange to 3". 1
⁄6 bend 60°
Closet flange: The fitting upon which a toilet (water 1
⁄8 bend 45°
closet) sits. Many different closet flanges are available to 1
⁄16 bend 221⁄2°
accommodate different fitting and pipe configurations. One

Bend pipes for DWV systems include:

¼ street bend (A), ¼ bend (B), ¼
vent bend (C), and ¼ bend with side B
inlet (D). A

Parts of a toilet drain system include:

closet bend (A), closet flange (B),
and offset closet flange (C).
A C

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 Sanitary tee: A sanitary tee is a tee fitting combined with a
¼-bend fitting.

Street fitting: A street fitting has a female opening (hub)

on one end and a male opening (spigot) on the other end.
Most drainage fittings have female openings on both ends.
A
Sweep: A sweep is a drainage fitting used to make a
90-degree change in the direction of flow. A short sweep is
the same as a quarter bend in plastic pipes. Short sweeps
and quarter bends are different fittings in cast iron pipes.
A quarter bend with a longer radius bend is sometimes
called a long sweep or a long turn quarter bend.

Tee: A fitting with three openings. Two openings are in

a straight line, and one opening is at an approximate
90-degree angle to the others. Double tees, with four
openings, are also available. Use vent tees only in the dry B
vent sections of vent pipes.

Wye: A fitting with three openings. Two openings are

in a straight line and one opening is at an approximate
45-degree angle to the others. Wye fittings can be made
with other fittings to make combination fittings, such as a
tee-wye and a combination wye and 1⁄8 bend. Double wye Inlet fittings include: bend with low-heel inlet (A) and bend
and double tee-wye fittings are also available. with side inlet (B).

B C
A
A B

Tees for use in DWV systems include: Double sanitary tee Two types of sanitary tees include: Single sanitary tee (A)
(A), vent tee (B), and test tee (C). and double sanitary tee (B).

Wye fittings for DWV use include:

Wye (A), double wye (B), and
tee-wye (C).

B
C

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 TABLE 32: APPROVED DRAINAGE FITTINGS FOR CHANGING FLOW DIRECTION
TYPE OF FITTING HORIZ. TO VERT. VERT. TO HORIZ. HORIZ. TO HORIZ.
22½˚ elbow ( ⁄16 bend)
1
yes yes yes
45˚ elbow ( ⁄8 bend)
1
yes yes yes
60˚ elbow (1⁄6 bend) yes yes yes
90˚ elbow (¼ bend) yes YES for fixture drains ≤ 2" YES for fixture drains ≤ 2"
(cast-iron pipes only) NO for other pipes & sizes NO for other pipes & sizes
90˚ elbow (¼ bend & short sweep) yes YES for fixture drains ≤ 2" YES for fixture drains ≤ 2"
(plastic pipes) & all pipes ≥ 3" NO for other pipes & sizes
90˚ elbow (long sweep yes yes yes
& long turn ¼ bend) (all pipes)
sanitary tee yes no no
limits on multiple connection fittings
wye yes yes yes
tee-wye yes yes yes

Drain & Sewer Pipe Connections & Joints

1
⁄8 bend

Tee-wye 1
⁄8 bend

Wye

Changing flow direction from vertical Changing flow direction from vertical to Changing flow direction from vertical to
to horizontal using a wye fitting and horizontal using a tee-wye. horizontal using two 1⁄8 bends.
1
⁄8 bend.

Long sweep

Changing flow direction from horizontal Changing flow direction from horizontal Changing flow direction from horizontal
to horizontal using a long sweep fitting. to horizontal using a wye fitting. to horizontal using a long-radius tee-
wye fitting.

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 A

3. You may use the side inlet of a quarter bend

to change the flow direction when the inlet is
horizontal (side facing), but not when the inlet
is vertical (facing up). The side inlet may accept
drainage flow from any fixture except a toilet. Side
and heel inlets are usually 1½- or 2-inch openings,
and you may not connect a toilet to any opening
B
less than (<) 3 inches.

4. You may connect a dry vent to the quarter bend

side or heel inlet only when the inlet is vertical
(facing up). You may connect a dry vent to a
quarter bend side or heel inlet when the inlet
C is horizontal (side facing) only when the entire
quarter bend fitting is used as part of a dry vent.

Changing flow direction from horizontal to vertical using:

sanitary tee (A), 1⁄8 bend (B), wye (C). 90° bend with 90° bend with
low-heel inlet: high-heel inlet: 90° bend with
Flow from any Flow from any side inlet:
fixture except fixture except Flow from any
Drainage & Sewer Pipe Fittings toilet ok,
vent connection ok
toilet ok,
vent connection ok
fixture ok,
vent connection ok
for Changing Flow Direction
1. Use the fittings in Table 32 to change the direction
of flow in drainage and sewer pipes.
Flow from Flow from Flow from
any fixture except any fixture except any fixture except
Drainage & Sewer Pipe Fittings: toilet and wet
vented fixture ok,
toilet ok,
no vent connection
toilet ok,
no vent connection
Changing from Horizontal to Vertical no vent connection
Flow from Flow from
Using Multiple Fittings Flow from any fixture
except toilet ok,
any fixture
except toilet ok,
any fixture
except toilet ok,
1. You may use multiple fittings and double fittings vent connection ok vent connection ok vent connection ok
(such as double sanitary tees) to connect back-
to-back fixtures and two or more branch drains
on the same level if directly opposite fitting
connections are from the same size pipe and if Flow from Flow from Flow from
directly opposite fitting connections are from any fixture ok, any fixture ok, any fixture ok,
vent connection ok vent connection ok vent connection ok
similar fixture types or fixture groups.
Allowed uses of 90° bends with an inlet
2. Do not use a double sanitary tee to receive
discharge from back-to-back toilets or from OK
fixtures or appliances with pumping action (such FLOW NO
as washing machines and dishwashers). You may NO NO
OK FLOW
use a double sanitary tee if the distance between FLOW FLOW
FLOW FLOW FLOW
the center of the closet flange and the inlet of the
OK OK
sanitary tee is at least 18 inches.
Sanitary tee allowed flow direction change
Quarter Bends with Heel or Side-Inlet
1. You may not use a heel inlet quarter bend to
Fixture drain ≥ 3" ok Long sweep ok Long & short
change flow direction from vertical to horizontal ≤ 2" ok ¼ bend & any pipe, sweep ok
if the fitting serves a toilet. You may use a heel all pipes short sweep any size any pipe,
plastic pipe any size
inlet quarter bend to change flow direction from
horizontal to vertical without restrictions.

2. You may not connect wet vented fixtures to the

low heel inlet of a heel inlet quarter bend. 90° bend allowed direction change

PLUMBING SYSTEM 143

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 Drain & Sewer Pipe Connections & Joints
ABS Plastic Pipe Joints Steel Pipe Joints
1. You may use approved branded couplings to join 1. You may use threaded joints for galvanized steel
buried ABS pipes. Do not use branded couplings pipes. The threads should be NPT type.
to join aboveground ABS pipes unless the use is
approved by the building official. 2. You may use approved branded couplings
to join galvanized steel pipes. Install the
2. You may use solvent cement to join ABS pipes branded couplings according to manufacturer’s
above and below ground. Clean and dry pipes and instructions.
fittings before applying solvent cement to all joint
surfaces. Make the joint while the solvent cement PVC Plastic Pipe Joints
is wet. Use solvent cement that complies with 1. You may use approved branded couplings to join
ASTM D 2235. Do not use PVC cement with buried PVC pipes. Do not use branded couplings
ABS pipe. to join aboveground PVC pipes unless the use is
approved by the building official.
3. You may use threaded joints for Schedule 80 and
heavier ABS pipe. The threads should be NPT type. 2. You may use solvent cement to join PVC pipes
Do not place threads on the pipe’s interior. above and below ground. Clean and dry pipes and
fittings before applying primer to all joint surfaces.
Apply primer that complies with ASTM F 656 if
required by your local jurisdiction. Apply solvent
cement that complies with ASTM D 2564. Make
the joint while the solvent cement is wet. Do not
use ABS cement with PVC pipe.

You may use a product called transition cement to join ABS Use the correct solvent cement and primer, if required, for
and PVC pipe if the product is approved by your local the type of pipe you’re using: PVC and CPVC should be
jurisdiction. This product is not currently approved by general connected with PVC solvent cement and primer; ABS requires
codes for most applications but is frequently used. ABS solvent cement (no primer is required).

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 3. You may use threaded joints for Schedule 80 and
heavier PVC pipe. The threads should be NPT type.
Do not place threads on the pipe’s interior.

Joints between Different Types of Pipe

1. Use branded couplings approved for joining the
different types of pipe. Install all branded couplings
according to manufacturer’s instructions.

2. Use an approved brass ferrule with a caulked joint

or a mechanical compression joint when joining
copper tubing to cast-iron pipe.

3. Use a brass converter fitting or a dielectric fitting

when joining copper tubing to galvanized steel pipe.

Drain & Sewer Pipe Slope

1. Install horizontal drainage and sewer pipe with a
uniform slope and alignment.

2. Install pipe not more than 2½ inches in diameter

with at least a ¼ unit in 12 units (2 percent) slope.

3. Install pipe at least 3 inches diameter with at least

a ⅛ unit in 12 units (1 percent) slope.

Drain & Sewer Pipe Size Reduction

1. Do not reduce drainage and sewer pipe size in the
direction of the waste flow. Example: do not drain
a 2-inch trap into a 1½-inch drainpipe.
Cast-iron drain pipe joints originally were made with hubbed
fittings. Since new cast iron is seldom installed, joinery with
NOTE: A 4-inch-by-3-inch closet bend fitting is not cast iron is normally accomplished by connecting the original
classified as a reduction in size. cast iron to another material, such as PVC, with a branded
coupling.

Install and support DWV pipe

to maintain the required
uniform slope.

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 Drain & Sewer Cleanout Openings
Cleanout Locations & Spacing occur in one pipe run, only one cleanout is
1. Install a cleanout in every horizontal drainpipe required, spaced not more than 40 feet apart. This
so that the distance between cleanouts is not provision applies to the building drain, building
more than 100 feet, measured along the pipe’s sewer, and horizontal branch drains.
developed length. Install at least one cleanout for
every horizontal drainpipe regardless of drainpipe Cleanout Size
length. This provision applies to the building drain, 1. Install cleanouts that are the same size as the
building sewer, and horizontal branch drains, not largest pipe served by the cleanout. Example: you
to fixture drains. may not use 1½-inch fixture drain as a cleanout for
a 2-inch branch drain.
2. Install a cleanout within 10 feet of the building
drain and building sewer junction. You may install 2. You may install a cleanout in a vertical stack that
this cleanout inside or outside the building. Make is one pipe size smaller than the stack pipe size.
this cleanout accessible. Measure the 10 feet
along the developed length of the pipe from Cleanout Accessibility
the cleanout fitting to the building drain and 1. Provide at least 18 inches between the cleanout
sewer junction. and any obstruction. Measure the distance
perpendicular to the front of the cleanout.
3. Install a cleanout at every change of pipe direction
more than 45 degrees when the direction change 2. Do not conceal cleanouts with permanent
uses one fitting. When multiple direction changes finishing materials.

Cleanout required One cleanout required in horizontal

in building sewer drainage pipes & building drain
≤ every 100' ≤ every 100'

Building Building
sewer drain

One cleanout required Cleanout required

≤ 10' from at change in
junction of building drain horizontal pipe direction > 45°,
& building sewer, not more than one cleanout
inside or every 40' if more
outside foundation than one direction change

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 3. Extend underground cleanouts to or above Cleanout Direction
finished grade. Do not extend cleanouts 1. Install cleanouts so that they open toward the
above surfaces where they may become direction of the waste flow.
trip hazards or where they may be damaged
by traffic. Cleanout Fixture Connections
1. Do not connect other pipes or fixtures to an
Cleanout Plugs existing cleanout unless you install an alternate
1. Install brass or plastic plugs in cleanout fittings. cleanout. Example: do not remove a cleanout plug
and use the cleanout opening as the drain for a
2. Make cleanouts gas and liquid tight. laundry sink.

A cleanout is a threaded, removable cap

positioned in a drainpipe run to allow
access for equipment that clears clogs.
Every horizontal line should have a
cleanout that is no smaller in diameter
than the largest drainpipe in the line.

For your convenience, keep access clear to cleanouts. Position

movable objects, such as this washing machine, so they will
not interfere with drain cleaning tools. Permanent obstructions
must be kept at least 18" away from the cleanout, measured
perpendicular to the opening.

Seal cleanout plugs before capping cleanout fittings.

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 Vent pipe

Plumbing Vents
Drainpipe

T o understand the purpose of plumbing vents,

you must first understand the purpose of
plumbing traps. A trap is required for all fixture drains 45°
connected to the DWV pipes. A trap can be a separate
fitting, such as a P-trap for a sink or a shower, or it
can be part of the fixture, such as the trap in a toilet.
A trap maintains a water seal that keeps noxious and
potentially explosive sewer gas in the DWV pipes
and away from the air in the home. Water flows into Vent pipes should extend in an upward direction from drains.
a fixture and through a trap when you use a fixture. This ensures that wastewater cannot flow into the vent pipe
When you stop using the fixture, some of the water and block it. At the opposite end, a vent pipe should connect
remains in the trap and recharges the trap’s water seal. to an existing vent stack or stack vent at a point at least
6" above the flood rim of the highest fixture draining into
When water flows in a pipe near a trap, the suction
the system.
caused by the flowing water can create enough
negative pressure at the trap to pull the water out of
the trap. This is sometimes called siphoning the trap,
because it is similar to what happens when you use a
hose to siphon fuel out of a fuel tank. If the trap looses
its water seal, the home is open to the flow of sewer gas.
A plumbing vent protects the trap’s water seal by
allowing air into the DWV pipes. The air provided by the Vent pipe
vent replaces the air that is drawn along with the flowing
water. This replacement air reduces the suction and
protects the trap. Without properly sized and installed
vents, the DWV system will not function as intended. Support vent pipes so they slope toward drain pipes.

Vent Slope & Connection to Pipes

Plumbing Vents Required or extension of the building drain. The branch or
1. Install an approved vent for every trap and trapped extension cannot be an island fixture vent.
fixture. This means that every plumbing fixture
(such as a sink or a shower) and every plumbing Vent Pipe Slope & Support
fixture with an integrated trap (such as a toilet) 1. Install all vent pipes using adequate supports so
must be protected by an individual vent or an that the vent pipes slope toward the soil or waste
approved vent system in which one vent protects pipe. Moisture in any form should flow toward the
multiple fixtures. soil or waste pipe by gravity. General codes do not
specify support intervals for vent pipes. Supporting
2. Terminate at least one vent outdoors. Connect the vent pipes at the same interval required for drain
outdoor vent to the building drain or to a branch pipes is recommended, but not required.

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 Vent Pipe Connection
to Horizontal Drainage Pipes
1. Connect vent pipes to horizontal drainage pipes
above the centerline of the horizontal drainage
pipe. This protects the vent pipe from filling with
solid material.

Vent Connection Height Minimums

1. Connect dry vent pipes to vent stacks, stack
vents, and to stack-type air admittance valves so
that the connection point is at least 6 inches above
the flood rim level of the highest fixture served
by the vent. A common violation of this provision is
when a dry vent runs parallel to the drainage pipes
under the fixture. This provision helps protect the
vent pipe from filling with solid material.

Trap weir

VIOLATION! Do not connect the vent pipe within 2 pipe

diameters of the trap weir.

2. Install horizontal branch vent pipes at least

6 inches above the flood rim level of the highest
fixture served by the vent.

Vent Rough-in for Future Fixtures

1. Install a vent for roughed-in (future) fixtures
that is at least ½ the diameter of the
drainpipe rough-in.

2. Connect the roughed-in vent to the vent system or

provide another approved means to terminate the
roughed-in vent.

3. Label the roughed-in vent pipe to indicate that it is

a vent.

Connect vent pipes to other vents at least 6" above the highest Crown Venting
fixture so that the vent pipe will not become clogged with 1. Connect the vent fitting at least two pipe
solid materials. diameters from the trap weir.

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 Vent Termination
Vent Height Above Roof 2. Extend vent pipes at least 7 feet above any roof
1. Extend vent pipes above the roof at least 6 inches, used as a balcony, observation deck, or similar
or the number of inches required by local snow accessible walking surface.
accumulation and temperature conditions,
whichever is higher. Measure vent height from Vent Freezing & Frost Closure Protection
the high side where the vent exits the roof. Obtain 1. Protect exterior vent terminals from freezing by
the snow accumulation height from the local using heat, insulation, or both.
building official.
2. Increase the diameter of exterior vent terminal
pipes to at least 3 inches, beginning at least 1 foot
below the roof or inside the wall.

3. These provisions apply only where the

97.5 percent winter design temperature is
less than 0 degrees Fahrenheit. Obtain this
information from IRC Chapter 3 and from your
local building official.

Vent Flashing
1. Use approved flashing to make vent pipes
extending through a roof watertight.

2. Use caulk to make vent pipes extending through a

wall watertight.

Vent Exterior Termination Locations

1. Locate plumbing vent terminations at least
4 feet below, at least 3 feet above, or at least
10 feet horizontally from any: (a) door or
operable window, (b) other air intake opening
of the building, and (c) air intake opening of any
adjacent building.

2. Locate plumbing vent terminations running

through a side wall at least 10 feet from the lot line
and at least 10 feet above the highest grade within
10 feet horizontally from the vent termination.

3. Locate plumbing vent terminations at least 7 feet

above a roof used for recreational purposes, such
as an observation deck or sunbathing.

4. Protect side-wall vent terminations from entry by

birds or rodents.

Use approved vent flashing boots to seal around the vent 5. Do not locate vent terminations directly under
projections in a roof. Make sure boot angle is compatible with the building’s overhang if the overhang contains
your roof slope. soffit vents.

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 Vent Connection Distance from Trap TABLE 33: VENT DISTANCE FROM TRAP
1. Use Table 33 to determine the maximum length
of a fixture drain between a trap weir and a vent TRAP SLOPE DISTANCE FROM TRAP
fitting. The vent fitting may be at a vent pipe, such SIZE TO VENT FITTING
as an individual vent, or at a vented pipe, such as 11⁄4 1
⁄4" per ft. 5'
a wet vent. Uniform Plumbing Code fixture drain 11⁄2 1
⁄4" per ft. 6'
lengths are different. 2 1
⁄4" per ft. 8'
3 1
⁄8" per ft. 12'
2. The table does not apply to self-siphoning fixtures,
such as toilets. No fixture drain length limitations 4 1
⁄8" per ft. 16'

apply to these fixtures.

Fixture Drain Slope

1. Connect the fixture drain pipe with not more than Maximum vent distance
from trap
one pipe diameter of fall between the bottom of
the trap outlet and the bottom of the vent fitting
inlet. This parallels the distance requirements
in Table 33 and reduces the chance that the trap
will drain because the fitting is below the trap.
Example: 5 feet by ¼ inch per foot equals
1¼ inches. See the first row of Table 33.

2. Connect the top of the fixture drainpipe to the The distance from the trap to the vent fitting is limited. Note
vent fitting above the trap weir. This provision that the vent fitting may connect to a vent pipe or to a pipe
does not apply to toilet fixture drains. that is vented, such as a wet vented pipe.

Improper vent connection Proper vent connection

Vent connected below flood rim.

Branch vent
Waste flow through horizontal vent
could occur when drain stack or
fixture drain is blocked.
Connect individual
and branch vents
≥ 6" above highest
fixture flood rim Flood rim
Flood rim
Vent
stack
Flood rim

Vent
stack
Drain
Individual vents
blocked

When a vent is connected to a vent stack, the connection should be at least 6" above the fixture flood rim level. This helps avoid
improper waste flow through the trap.

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 Vent pipe at least 2× pipe
diameter from trap weir
Fall of
drain less
1 pipe than 1 pipe
diameter diameter

2× diameter

Examples of correct individual vent configurations.

Vent Pipe Size

1. Use at least a 1¼-inch-diameter vent pipe or a vent
pipe at least ½ the diameter of the drainpipe being
vented, whichever is larger, as the dry vent.

2. Increase the vent pipe diameter by at least one

pipe size over the entire length of the vent pipe
when the vent’s developed length is greater than
40 feet.

Vent Pipe Developed Length

1. Measure the developed length of individual,
branch, and circuit vents beginning where the vent
connects to the drainage system and ending where
the vent connects to a vent stack, stack vent, air
admittance valve, or the vent’s termination point
outside the building. Individual vents are the easiest to install. They protect
one fixture.

Individual Vents
1. Fixture types: Use an individual vent to protect 5. Fixture drain length to vent connection: Use Table
any fixture. 33 to determine the maximum distance between
the fixture trap weir and the individual vent fitting.
2. Number of fixtures: Use an individual vent to
protect only one fixture. 6. Individual vent pipe size: Use at least a 1¼-inch
pipe or a pipe at least ½ the size of the drainpipe
3. Fixture location: Use an individual vent to protect being vented, whichever is larger.
one fixture located anywhere in the structure.
Common Vents
4. Individual vent connection location: Connect the 1. Fixture types: Use a common vent to protect any
individual vent on the fixture drain of the fixture two fixtures. You may common vent different types
being vented or at the fixture drain connection to of fixtures, such as a sink and a shower or a shower
the drainage system. and a toilet.

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 2. Number of fixtures: Use a common vent to protect 4. Wet vent connection location: (a) Begin the wet
only two fixtures. vent with an individual or common vent for a
lavatory, bidet, shower, or bathtub. This vent does
3. Fixture location: Use a common vent only for not need to be at the first wet vented fixture in a
fixtures located on the same floor level. You may horizontal wet vent. This vent must be at the first
connect the fixture drains at different vertical wet vented fixture in a vertical wet vent. End the
levels if the fixtures are on the same floor level. wet vent at the last wet vented fixture connection
to the wet vented pipe. (b) Do not connect more
4. Common vent connection location: You may than one fixture upstream from the beginning
connect the common vent where the fixture individual or common vent in a horizontal wet
drains intersect. You may connect the common vent. (c) Connect each fixture individually to the
vent downstream from where the fixture drains wet vented pipe. Do not connect two or more
intersect only when the fixture drains connect to fixtures together and connect that branch drain to
the branch drainpipe at the same horizontal level. the wet vented pipe.

5. Fixture drain length to vent connection: Use Table 5. Horizontal wet vent fixture drain connection
33 to determine the maximum distance between location: (a) Connect each individual fixture
each fixture trap weir and the common vent fitting. drain horizontally to a horizontal wet-vented
pipe. Example: you may not install a wye fitting
6. Common vent pipe size: Use at least 1¼ inches of vertically and connect a fixture drain to the
pipe or a pipe at least ½ the size of the drainpipe vertical opening of the wye in a horizontal
being vented, whichever is larger, for the wet vent. You may install the wye horizontally
common vent. and connect the horizontal fixture drain to
the horizontal opening of the wye. (b) You may
Wet Vents connect a fixture drain vertically to a horizontal
1. Fixture types: Use a wet vent to protect any wet-vented pipe if you install a dry vent on the
combination of fixtures from not more than two vertically connected fixture. Example: you may
bathroom groups. install a wye fitting vertically if you connect an
individual vent to the fixture. (c) Do not connect
2. Number of fixtures: Use a wet vent to protect not any fixtures to the horizontal wet-vented pipe
more than two toilets, two bathtubs or showers, other than those fixtures being wet-vented. You
two lavatory sinks, or two bidets. may connect other fixtures to the horizontal
pipe downstream after the wet vent ends.
3. Fixture location: Use a wet vent only for approved Example: do not connect a bedroom bar sink to a
bathroom fixtures located on the same floor level. wet-vented pipe.

Common vent with vent connecting at fixture drain intersection.

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 6. Vertical wet vent fixture drain connection location: 4. Pipe configuration: (a) Extend the loop portion of
(a) Connect all toilet fixture drains at the same the island fixture vent vertically to above the drain
vertical level. (b) Connect fixture drains from outlet of the fixture being vented before extending
bathtubs, showers, lavatory sinks, and bidets at or the horizontal and/or vertical downward portion.
above where the toilet fixture drains connect to (b) Use drainage fittings and pipe slopes for any
the vertical wet vent. portion of the vent below the fixture flood rim
level. Do not use vent fittings or slope the vent
7. Fixture drain length to wet-vented pipe: Use Table 33 pipe as a vent below the fixture flood rim level.
(see page 151) to determine the maximum distance (c) Connect the downward portion of the vent
between each fixture trap weir and the fixture drain loop downstream from where the fixture drain
fitting at the wet-vented drain pipe. You may use connects with the horizontal drainage pipe. Make
individual and common vents to protect any fixture the connection using a full size fitting. (d) Provide
where the fixture drain length limit is a problem. cleanouts at the downward portion of the loop
vent and in the vertical portion of the vent pipe
8. Wet vent pipe size: (a) Use a dry vent that is at before it connects to the exterior vent pipe.
least a 1¼-inch pipe or a pipe at least ½ the size
of the wet-vented pipe, whichever is larger, for the 5. Dry vent connection location: (a) Connect the dry
individual or common vent that begins the wet vent to the drainage system using a full size fitting.
vent. (b) Use Table 34 to size the horizontal and Connect the dry vent to a vertical drain pipe or
vertical wet-vented drainage pipe. You may not the top half of a horizontal drain pipe. (b) Extend
connect a toilet to a drainage pipe smaller than any dry vent at least 6 inches above the flood rim
3 inches regardless of what is allowed in the table.

Island Fixture Vent TABLE 34: HORIZ. & VERT.

1. Fixture types: Use an island fixture vent to WET-VENTED DRAINAGE PIPE SIZE
protect only sinks such as those in kitchens and
WET-VENTED MAX. DRAIN
bathrooms. You may connect a dishwasher and
PIPE SIZE FIXTURES LOAD
disposal to a kitchen sink.
11⁄2 " 1

2. Use an island fixture vent to protect any number of 2" 4

approved fixture types. 2 ⁄2"
1
6
3" 12
3. Use an island fixture vent only for fixtures located 4" 32
in the same island and on the same floor level.

Horizontal wet vent begins

at individual or common vent Fixtures connecting vertically
need separate vent

Fitting installed horizontally

FDL

Wet
vented
pipe FDL
Wet vent ends
at last wet vented
bathroom group fixture
All wet vented fixtures connect horizontally
to wet vented pipe

Using a wet vent eliminates the need for an individual vent for each fixture.

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 level of the highest fixture being vented before any 5. Locate stack-type air admittance valves at least
connection to the outside vent. 6 inches above the flood rim level of the highest
fixture being vented.
6. Fixture drain length to vent connection: Use
Table 33 to determine the maximum distance 6. Locate the air admittance valve within the vent’s
between the fixture trap weir and the fixture drain developed length limits.
connection to the island vent.
7. Locate air admittance valves in attics at least
7. Vent pipe size: Use at least a 1¼ inches pipe or a 6 inches above insulation.
pipe at least ½ the size of the drain pipe size being
vented as the dry portion of the vent, whichever 8. Provide air admittance valves with access and
is larger. adequate ventilation.

Air Admittance Valves 9. Install air admittance valves within 15 degrees

1. Install air admittance valves according to of vertical, and do not install air admittance
manufacturer’s installation instructions and valves outdoors unless allowed by the
general code provisions. manufacturer’s instructions.

2. You may use air admittance valves to vent 10. Do not use an air admittance valve as the vent for
individual vents, branch vents, circuit vents, and a sewage ejector tank unless the vent system for
stack vents. Use individual and branch-type air the tank is designed by a qualified engineer.
admittance valves to vent fixtures that are on
the same floor level and that are connected to a 11. Look for the UPC symbol on the air admittance
horizontal branch drain. valve. Air admittance valves without this symbol
are for use only in manufactured homes. They may
3. Use air admittance valves that are rated for the not be used in homes governed by the IRC.
vent size to which the valve is connected.
12. Do not install air admittance valves outside unless
4. Locate individual and branch-type air admittance allowed by manufacturer’s instructions. Do not
valves at least 4 inches above the horizontal install them outside to evade vent clearance
branch drain or fixture drain being vented. requirements to air intake openings.

Island vent
Fixture
flood rim
Vent stack
Drain
trap Cleanout
required
Vent pipe

Cleanout
(Basement) Drainpipe

An island fixture vent is a fairly complicated venting configuration used to vent Air admittance valves can be installed
fixtures installed in a kitchen island. To further complicate matters, many codes in an island cabinet to vent a sink
now require that the vent pipe from the fixture connect to the vent stack at least drain line, greatly simplifying the
6" above the fixture flood rim. venting process.

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 TABLE 35: MINIMUM TRAP SIZE
FOR PLUMBING FIXTURES
PLUMBING FIXTURE MINIMUM TRAP SIZE
Bathtub (equipped or not equipped 1½"

Plumbing Traps
with shower head or whirlpool)
Bidet 1¼"
Clothes washing machine standpipe 2"
Dishwasher (separately trapped) 1½"
Trap Size Floor drain 2"
1. Use Table 35 to determine the minimum trap size
for most plumbing fixtures. Kitchen sink (equipped or not equipped with dishwasher 1½"
or disposal & trapped using one or two traps)

2. Do not install separate traps on toilets, urinals, and Laundry tubs (≥ 1 compartments) 1½"
other fixtures that have traps in the fixture itself. Lavatory 1¼"

Shower (total flow rate of all showerheads & body 1½"

3. Do not install a trap that is larger than the
sprays) ≤ 5.7 gallons per minute (gpm) > 5.7 gpm 2"
drainage pipe into which the trap discharges.
& ≤ 12.3 gpm > 12.3 gpm & ≤ 25.8 gpm > 3"
Example: do not connect a 2-inch trap to a
25.8 gpm & ≤ 55.6 gpm 4"
1½-inch pipe on the discharge side of the trap.

Trap Seal
1. Install traps with a water seal of at least 2 inches 2. Install floor drain traps that have a deep seal (near
and not more than 4 inches. 4 inches) design or a trap primer. Connect trap
primer valves above the trap seal level.

Trap Installation
1. Set traps level with respect to their water seal.

2. Protect traps from freezing.

3. Provide access to traps with slip joints at the trap

inlet or outlet.

4. Do not install more than one trap per fixture.

Trap dip

Measure the water seal from the trap dip to the crown weir. 5. Limit the vertical distance between the fixture
drain outlet and the trap weir to not more than
24 inches.

6. Limit the horizontal distance between the fixture

drain outlet and the center of the trap inlet to
not more than 30 inches. Note that this 30-inch
horizontal distance may be eliminated or not
enforced in some jurisdictions. Verify if this
provision applies in your jurisdiction.

Prohibited Traps
1. Do not install the following types of traps: bell
VIOLATION! Install traps so that the water seal is level. Traps set traps, drum traps, S-traps, traps with moving parts,
out of level may lose their water seal and will not drain properly. and building traps.

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 Plumbing Appliances & Fixtures

T he installation and hookup of appliances that are

part of your home plumbing system is the part of
the plumbing process that DIYers are most likely to
2. Do not install fuel-fired water heaters in bedrooms
or bathrooms unless the water heater is installed
in a sealed enclosure where combustion air does
attempt. The information in this section provides a not come from the living space. This restriction
good general backdrop for making plumbing hookups, does not apply to direct vent water heaters.
but be sure to read the manufacturer’s installation
recommendations carefully. As always, manufacturer 3. You may provide access to water heaters located
instructions take precedence over codes. in attics or crawl spaces through bedrooms,
bathrooms, or their closets if ventilation of the
bedroom, bathroom, or closet complies with codes.

Water Heaters
Replacing a water heater is a relatively easy
DIY plumbing task as long as it is a like-for-like
replacement. In an ideal situation, you’d replace the
old unit with one of the exact same size and make,
and thereby avoid having to move any gas, water,
or electrical lines. But if you choose to upgrade or
downgrade in size, or perhaps replace an old electric
water heater with a gas water heater that costs less to
run, you’ll find that relocating the necessary lines isn’t
that difficult. Be sure to check with your local building
department to determine if a permit is required to
replace a water heater. A permit probably is required
unless you are replacing like-for-like.
Water heaters for primary duty in residences range
in size from 30 gallons to 65 gallons. For a family of
four, a 40- or 50-gallon model should be adequate.
While you don’t want to run out of hot water every
morning, you also don’t want to pay to heat more
water than you use. Base your choice on how well
your current water heater is meeting your demand.

Prohibited Locations for Water Heaters No more

1. Do not install fuel-fired water heaters in rooms than 6"

used as storage closets. You may install water

heaters in closets used solely to store the water
heater if you provide adequate combustion air in Water heaters typically last for at least 10 years, but once they
the closet. You may install electric water heaters in start to show signs of aging, it’s a good idea to replace them
any closet when allowed by the manufacturer. with a new, more efficient appliance.

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 Water Heater Relief Valves Water Heater Relief Valve Discharge Pipe
1. Install either a separate temperature relief 1. Use water distribution pipe listed in Table 28 (see
valve and a separate pressure relief valve or a page 133) as the relief valve discharge pipe. Copper
combination temperature and pressure relief valve and CPVC are the most commonly used discharge
on all appliances used to heat or store hot water. pipes. It is difficult to maintain uniform slope and fall
Combination temperature and pressure relief valves on flexible pipes, such as PEX.
(T&P valves) are used almost exclusively in modern
water heaters. This provision applies to tank-type, 2. Install the discharge pipe so hot water and steam will
tankless, and swimming pool water heaters. not cause personal injury or property damage if the
relief valve discharges.
2. Install the temperature relief or T&P valve on the
top of the water heater or on the side of the water 3. Install the discharge pipe so that any leaking
heater within 6 inches of the top. Do not install an from the pipe outlet is readily observable by the
extension pipe between the water heater and the building occupants.
T&P valve.
4. Use a discharge pipe that is at least as large as the
3. Do not install a check valve or shutoff valve relief valve opening. The size is usually ¾ inch in
anywhere that might interfere with the operation diameter. Use 1-inch-diameter pipe or tubing if insert
of the relief valve or the flow of water or steam fittings are installed in the discharge pipe. PEX tubing
from the discharge pipe. is the most common example of this situation.

5. Run the discharge pipe full size to the floor, to

an indirect waste receptor (such as a floor drain)
inside the building, to the water heater drip pan, or
outside the building. If the area is subject to freezing,
terminate the discharge pipe through an air gap into
an indirect waste receptor located inside the building.
You may use other discharge points in areas subject to
freezing, if approved by the local building official.

6. Slope the discharge pipe so that it drains by gravity

from the relief valve to the discharge point.
The T&P valve is a critical safety device that is required on all
water heaters. 7. Do not connect the discharge pipe directly to the
building’s drain, waste, and vent system. Leave an
air gap between the discharge pipe and the floor,
ground, or other termination point.

8. Do not install a trap or a valve or a threaded outlet in

the discharge pipe.

9. Terminate the discharge pipe through an air gap

not more than 6 inches and not less than 1½ inches
T&P valves should be installed on your water heater prior to above the floor.
placing the appliance in position. Many water heaters today
come with the T&P valve preinstalled. 10. Do not connect more than one appliance to a
discharge pipe.

SAFETY TIP
T&P valve manufacturers recommend testing the valve at least once per year. They also recommend having a licensed
plumber inspect the valve at least every 3 years. Minerals in the water can collect on the sensor and render the valve
inoperable. Check and follow the safety instructions for your T&P valve.

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all

ill

t
g
The vent for a gas water heater should
be connected securely to the draft hood
at the top of the appliance.

g.
o

Install a drip pan under a water heater when water leaks might damage surrounding
areas. Use at least a 3⁄4"-diameter discharge pipe to drain the drip pan. Use a larger
discharge pipe if the connection to the drip pan is more than 3⁄4" diameter.

Water Heater Drip Pans

1. Install a drip pan under storage tank water heaters located where
leakage could cause damage. These locations often include attics
18"
and all areas within the conditioned area of the home, including
finished basements. Drip pans are not required under tankless water
n heaters, unless required by local codes.

2. Use a drip pan at least 1½ inches deep and made with at least
24-gauge galvanized steel or other approved materials. Use a pan with
a size and shape to catch all leaks and condensation from the water
heater. Do not install a plastic pan under a gas-fired water heater
unless the pan is listed for installation under a gas-fired water heater.

3. Run the discharge pipe to an indirect waste receptor (such as a floor

drain) or to the outside of the building. Terminate the pipe not more
than 24 inches or not less than 6 inches above the ground or a waste
receptor, such as a floor drain.
Do not connect PEX supply tubing
directly to a water heater. Install metal
4. You are not required to install a pan under a replacement water connector tubes to the inlet ports first,
heater if no pan is currently installed. and then attach the PEX to the tubes.

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 Toilets
You can replace a poorly functioning or inefficient Your criteria should include ease of installation,
toilet with a high-efficiency, high-quality new toilet good flush performance, and reliability. With a little
in just a single afternoon. All toilets made since research, you should be able to purchase and install a
1994 have been required to use 1.6 gallons or less high-functioning, economical gravity-flush toilet that
per flush, which has been a huge challenge for the will serve you well for years to come.
industry. Today, the most evolved 1.6-gallon toilets
have wide passages behind the bowl and wide General Requirements
(3-inch) flush valve openings—features that facilitate 1. Install toilets with an approved flushing
short, powerful flushes. This means fewer second mechanism that provides enough water to clear
flushes and fewer clogged toilets. These problems and refill the toilet bowl and refill the toilet’s
were common complaints of the first generation of internal trap. Approved flushing mechanisms
1.6-gallon toilets and continue to beleaguer inferior are the common gravity feed flush tanks (one-
models today. See what toilets are available at your and two-piece tanks) and power-assisted tanks
local home center in your price range, then go or valves.
online and see what other consumers’ experiences
with those models have been. New toilets often go 2. Install toilets that use an average of not more than
through a “debugging” stage when problems with
1.6 gallons per flush.
leaks and malfunctioning parts are more common.
3. Provide the toilet with an adequate supply of
water. Control the water supply with an automatic
device (such as a float valve) that will refill the
toilet tank after each flush and completely stop the
flow of water to the tank when the tank is full. The
device should also supply enough water to refill
the toilet.

4. Install toilets with a flush valve seat in the toilet

tank that is at least 1 inch above the flood level
of the toilet bowl. An alternate design (used by
Refill tube
low-profile one-piece toilets) is acceptable. This
design closes the flush valve when the toilet is
Overflow clogged and prevents water from flowing back into
pipe
the tank.

Fill valve 5. Provide toilet tanks with an overflow pipe or

mechanism that is sufficient to prevent the tank
Flush (flapper) from flooding if the fill valve malfunctions.
valve
6. Provide access to all parts in the toilet tank for
repair and replacement. Do not install permanent
counter tops or similar obstructions that restrict
access to the tank.

7. Use toilet seats made of smooth, non-absorbent

material properly sized for the toilet bowl.
Most toilet tanks today are equipped with a float cup style
fill valve rather than the float ball types that were common
previously. Some have power-assisted flush mechanisms to 8. Use corrosion-resistant screws, nuts, bolts, and
boost today’s low-flow toilets. washers to secure toilets to the closet flange.

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 Backflow Protection of Toilet Fill Valves
1. Protect toilets with an approved antisiphon
fill valve.

2. Locate the backflow preventer at least 1 inch

above the opening of the overflow pipe. Fill valves
with all parts below the tank water line usually
violate this provision.

Toilet (Closet) Flange

1. Install a closet flange that is firmly attached to
a structural support ( floor) to connect a toilet
to drainage piping. Use a closet flange that is
compatible with the connected drainage pipe.
Example: do not use a PVC closet flange with
ABS pipe. Do not use the closet flange to provide
structural support to the toilet.

2. Use non-corrosive bolts and an approved gasket

(O-ring) or other approved setting compound to An overflow tube must be provided inside the toilet tank
secure the toilet and closet flange and to make the to keep water from rising out of the tank if the fill valve
seal watertight. is malfunctioning.

The water inlet of a fill valve should usually be above the The closet flange and O-ring seal the plumbing connection.
tank’s water line to reduce backflow of wastewater into the The closet flange does not support the toilet.
drinking water system.

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 Dishwashing Machines
General Requirements machine drain tube to a wye fitting in the sink
1. You may discharge a dishwashing machine, a tailpiece when connecting the drain line directly to
disposal, and a kitchen sink into one 1½-inch- the sink tailpiece. Loop the dishwashing machine
diameter drain (trap). Use a ¾-inch-diameter drain line as high as possible in the sink cabinet
dishwashing machine drain tube when discharging and securely fasten or install an air gap device. An
the dishwashing machine into either a sink drain air gap device is not necessary in the dishwashing
(trap) or a disposal. Connect the dishwashing machine drain tube unless required by local codes.

Diverter fitting

Wye tailpiece

Discharge tube
from dishwasher

Use a wye tailpiece fitting when connecting a dishwashing machine drain tube directly to a sink.

A dishwashing machine drain tube high loop is one method of A dishwashing machine drain air gap device is one method
backflow prevention. Secure the tube as high as possible in of backflow prevention. Install the device according to
the sink base cabinet. manufacturer’s instructions. These are required in some
jurisdictions instead of a high loop.

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 Food Disposers
Fittings
1. Use an approved directional fitting on the tailpiece
when connecting a disposal or dishwashing machine.
Baffle
This helps direct the waste down into the plumbing
drain system and avoids blockage and blow back up
the tailpiece when these appliances discharge under
pressure. Examples of directional fittings include the
waste tee with a baffle and a sanitary tee.

Waste tee

A waste tee with a baffle is one possible directional fitting

when draining a dishwashing machine or food disposer into a
kitchen sink.

A sanitary tee fitting is one possible directional fitting when

draining a dishwashing machine or food disposer into a
kitchen sink.

Clothes Washing Machines

Fittings
1. Discharge the wastewater from a clothes washing
machine through an air gap. Do not connect the
clothes washing machine drain line directly to
the plumbing waste pipes. Inserting the clothes
washing machine drain hose into the standpipe Water
hammer
is the most common acceptable method of arrestors
providing the required air gap.

2. Install a water-hammer arrestor where required

to control water flow and reduce the possibility
of water hammer. A water-hammer arrestor may
be used near a quick-closing valve, such as in a Water-hammer arrestors may be required in some jurisdictions
clothes washing machine. at clothes washing machine hose connections.

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 Whirlpool Bathtubs (Jetted Baths)
General Requirements 18 inches by 18 inches if the pump is located
1. Install whirlpool tubs according to manufacturer’s more than 2 feet away from the opening. Do not
instructions. This includes testing the tub for place obstructions, such as tub support framing
leaks and pump operation, usually prior to and pipes, between the access opening and
installation, and providing adequate support for the pump.
the tub, water, and occupants. Some whirlpool
tub manufacturers allow plaster as a tub support 4. Locate the circulation pump above the crown weir
method. Plaster is not the same as drywall joint of the trap.
compound. Do not use drywall joint compound to
support bathtubs unless it is specifically approved 5. Install circulation pipes and pump drain line so
by the tub manufacturer. that they are self-draining and retain minimum
possible water after using the tub.
2. Provide a door or access panel large enough to
allow service personnel to repair and replace the 6. Install whirlpool bathtub motors on a GFCI
pump. The door size will depend on where the protected circuit. Do not use the bathroom
pump is located relative to the door. The door may receptacle circuit for this purpose.
have to be larger than the specified minimum size
if the pump is located far away from the door. 7. Install a copper bonding wire at least #8 AWG
connecting all metal pipes, pump motors, and
3. Make the access opening at least 12 inches by other electrical equipment associated with the
12 inches if the manufacturer does not specify an whirlpool bathtub. Do not bond grounded double
opening size. Make the access opening at least insulated whirlpool bathtub pump motors.

Whirlpool tub motors need access for maintenance and A bathtub can crack and drain connections can loosen and
replacement. The access opening must be large enough leak unless it is properly supported. Here, the tub is installed
to allow effective access to the motor. Connect a bonding on a bed of hardened mortar.
wire between the tub motor and metal water pipes for
electrical safety.

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 30" minimum

Showers
Shower Size
1. Provide showers with a finished area of at least
900 square inches and a finished minimum
dimension of at least 30 inches. Maintain the A sufficiently large shower stall is more than a convenience—
minimum dimensions from the top of the threshold it is a safety issue.
to at least 70 inches above the shower drain outlet.
Measure the shower from the centerline of the
threshold (curb). You may install valves, showerheads,
soap dishes, and grab bars that encroach into the
minimum dimensions. You may install a fold-down
seat in the shower if the minimum dimensions are
maintained when the seat is up.

2. You may provide a shower with a finished Attaching the shower riser pipe to framing helps avoid water leaks
minimum dimension of at least 25 inches if the caused when adjusting the showerhead loosens the pipe fittings.
finished area is at least 1,300 square inches.
Top of receptor liner at
3. Provide shower compartment access of at least least 2" above curb
22-inch finished width.

4. Swing hinged shower doors out from the shower 2"

stall. Hinged doors may swing into the shower stall
if they also swing out. Sliding shower doors are
also allowed.
Proper installation of a site-built shower receptor is critical to
Water Supply Riser avoiding costly water leaks.
1. Secure the pipe between the shower valve and
the showerhead to the permanent structure.Illo 252
This 5. Use hot-mopped felt, sheet lead, sheet copper,
provision applies whether the riser is visible or
CG_Codes approved plastic liner material, or approved trowel-
concealed. Securing the riser helps avoid leaks if applied liquid material when installing a site-built
07-20-2009
the riser twists and becomes loose at joints. shower receptor. Plastic liners (such as chlorinated
polyethylene and plasticized polyvinyl chloride) are
Shower Receptor Construction the most common modern site-built liner materials.
1. You are not required to install a raised curb or
threshold at the entrance to a shower. Showers 6. Extend the lining material at least 2 inches beyond
designed for wheelchair access will not have a curb or around the rough jambs of the shower receptor.
or threshold. Extend the lining material at least 2 inches above
the finished threshold or curb.
2. Install a shower curb or threshold (when used):
(a) at least 1 inch below the sides and back of the 7. Attach the lining material to an approved backing.
receptor; and (b) at least 2 inches and not more Nail or perforate the lining at least 1 inch above
than 9 inches above the top of the drain. the finished threshold. Seal joints in plastic lining
material according to manufacturer’s instructions.
3. Slope the shower floor at least ¼ unit in 12 units
(2-percent slope) and not more than ½ unit in 12 units. 8. Install an approved flanged shower drain that
is equipped with weep holes into the drain and is
4. Use a flanged shower floor drain that provides a equipped with a flange that makes a watertight
watertight seal at the floor. seal between the lining material and the drain.

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 WATER SUPPLY BACKFLOW PREVENTION
An important part of the design and use of the drinking (potable) water supply system is preventing contamination of
potable water. Contamination can occur when the potable water supply is intentionally or unintentionally connected to a
contaminant source. A cross-connection is a connection between the potable water supply and a potential contaminant
source. Backflow is when material (usually liquid) travels in the reverse of the intended direction within a cross-connection.
Contamination occurs when contaminated material backflows into the potable water system through a cross-connection.

Some cross-connections are intended. Examples of intended cross-connections include toilet tank fill valves, automatic
fill systems for swimming pools, and lawn irrigation systems. Some cross-connections are unintended. Examples of
unintended cross-connections include spray hoses connected to a laundry tub faucet and garden hoses attached to
chemical sprayers. In these examples, a sudden loss of water pressure in the potable water supply system or an increase in
pressure at the contaminant source could allow a contaminant to be drawn back into the potable water system. If the liquid
were weed killer in a spray bottle at the end of a garden hose, the weed killer could be drawn into the potable water system.

Backflow into the potable water system can occur by backpressure or by backsiphonage. Backpressure occurs when
the pressure in the cross-connection source exceeds the pressure in the potable water supply system. Contaminated
material is forced under pressure into the potable water system. Sources of backpressure include pumps, liquid storage
tanks at a higher elevation than the cross-connection point, and thermal expansion from a heat source, such as a water
heater. Backsiphonage occurs when the pressure in the potable water supply system falls below atmospheric pressure. Air
pressure can force contaminated material into the potable water supply system or negative pressure in the potable water
supply system can draw contaminated material into the potable water supply system.

The IRC requires protections of all potable water supply outlets and all intentional cross-connections by an air gap or by
an approved backflow prevention device.

AIR GAP TERMS

Air gap: An air gap is the unobstructed
distance between a water supply
fixture outlet opening and the flood
rim level of a receptor. Example:
the vertical distance between a sink
spout and the highest level that the
Air gap
water in the sink could reach without measurement
overflowing is the air gap.

Air gap distance measurement:

Measure the air gap distance between
the plumbing fixture outlet opening
and the flood rim of the fixture or
receptor. Measure the fixture outlet
opening diameter without the aerator
attached. Measure the vertical air gap
distance with the aerator attached.

Air gap minimum distances: Provide

an air gap distance based on the
effective size of the fixture outlet
opening. In most cases this distance
is twice the fixture outlet opening
diameter. Example: if a bathroom sink
faucet outlet opening is ½", then the
minimum vertical air gap between the
faucet outlet opening and the flood rim Most commercially available faucets are designed to provide the required
of the sink is 1". minimum air gap distance.

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 Irrigation Systems
1. Protect lawn irrigation system water connections 2. Do not install a valve downstream from an
by installing an atmospheric vacuum breaker, a atmospheric vacuum breaker.
pressure vacuum breaker, or a reduced pressure
backflow preventer. 3. Install a reduced pressure backflow preventer if
chemicals are introduced into the irrigation system.

VIOLATION! Pressure vacuum breakers are a common way to protect lawn irrigation systems. This manifold is missing a
backflow preventer (inset photo) and is a code violation.

PVC supply tubing is a good choice for bringing water to a Sprinkler heads in many irrigation systems are tied into the
home irrigation system: ¾" inside diameter schedule 40 is water supply with thin riser flex pipes. The union is typically
shown here. made with a barbed fitting.

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 Electrical System

H ome wiring is a very popular do-it-yourself

subject that is fundamentally hazardous. When
it comes to electricity, mistakes and accidents
do pose threats, including fire, injury, and death.
Therefore, safety is the primary focus of the electrical
code provisions.
In this chapter you will find many of the rules
governing safe installation of electrical wires,
electrical equipment—including conduit, electrical
receptacles, switches, lights, and other fixtures. Use
this information to inspect your wiring and make
sure it all conforms to code. If it does not, or if you
are unsure about it, have a professional electrician
upgrade your electrical system.

In this chapter:
• Understanding Electrical Circuits
• Electrical Grounding & Bonding
• Electrical Branch Circuit Requirements
• Electrical Receptacle Installation
• Ground-Fault (GFCI)
& Arc-Fault (AFCI) Protection
• Junction Boxes, Device Boxes & Enclosures
• Switch Installation
• Light Fixture Installation
• Satellite Dishes, Television & Radio Antennas
• Broadband Cable Wiring

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 DEFINITIONS OF ELECTRICAL TERMS
Accessible (readily): Electrical components are readily connected to the earth or to some body that serves as the
accessible if they can be reached quickly without moving earth. A grounded connection may be intentional (as in a
or climbing over obstructions (such as pictures and work circuit’s grounded conductor) or it may be unintentional
benches) and without using a portable ladder. Locks may (as in a ground fault).
be used to secure readily accessible components; however,
Grounding electrode: A component in contact with the earth
the key or combination should be readily accessible
that provides the grounding connection for the electrical
to all occupants at all times. Panelboards and service
system. Common residential grounding electrodes
disconnect equipment must be readily accessible in case
include a copper rod driven at least 8' into the ground,
circuits need to be shut off during an emergency.
a metal water service pipe, or a piece of reinforcing steel
Accessible (wires): Wires are accessible if they can be embedded in the footing.
exposed without removing or damaging permanent parts of
Grounding wire: A grounding conductor, also called an
the building and if a person can reach them for inspection,
equipment grounding conductor, connects electrical
repair, or maintenance. Examples: wires are accessible
equipment to the grounding electrode system. This
if they are behind suspended ceiling panels or if access
requires opening a door, removing an access panel, or connection usually occurs at a grounding bus or terminal
climbing a ladder. Wires are not accessible if you must bar at the service equipment that is in turn connected to a
cut drywall to expose the wires or if they are located in grounding electrode. Grounding conductors are bare wires
an area that cannot be reached for repair, inspection, or may be covered with green insulation.
or maintenance. Grounded wire: A grounded conductor, broadly defined, is
Bonding: Metallic components are bonded if they any conductor that is intentionally grounded. The common
are physically and electrically connected together. term for the grounded conductor in residential electrical
Example: a bonding wire should connect a swimming systems is the “neutral” wire. The grounded conductor
pool motor and nearby metal parts of the electrical is a current-carrying conductor. You should treat it as
supply system. Example: metal conduit should be such when working with electrical circuits. Grounded
electrically and mechanically connected where it enters a conductors are usually insulated with white or light
panelboard cabinet. gray insulation.

Bonded metallic components are part of an electrically Grounding electrode wire: The grounding electrode
conductive path that will safely conduct current imposed conductor is a wire that connects the grounding electrode
by a ground fault. Example: when metal conduit containing to the grounded conductors. In most residential electrical
a damaged wire becomes energized, this is a ground fault. systems, the only connection between the grounding
A proper bonding connection will conduct the fault current electrode conductor and the grounded conductors should
on the conduit safely to the electrical panel and allow occur at the service equipment.
proper operation of the circuit breaker or fuse. Otherwise, Ground fault: A ground fault occurs when metal that is not
a person touching the energized conduit could become normally energized becomes energized. Examples of a
the electrical circuit, and that person could receive a ground fault: (a) the hot (ungrounded) wire in a motor is
dangerous shock or the current flow could generate damaged or disconnected and touches the motor’s case,
enough heat to start a fire. energizing the case; (b) a screw penetrates the insulation
Branch circuit: A branch circuit begins at a circuit breaker of a hot (ungrounded) wire in an electrical panelboard and
or fuse in a panelboard and conducts electricity to where it energizes the cabinet; (c) damaged insulation on a hot
is used. A branch circuit can serve one device, such as an (ungrounded) wire allows the conductor to touch copper
oven, or it can serve multiple devices, such as receptacles water pipe, energizing the pipe.
and light fixtures.
Location (damp): Damp locations are subject to moderate
Cable: Any two or more wires contained in an insulating levels of moisture but are not subject to direct saturation
sheath or jacket. Most wire used in residential construction by liquids. Examples of damp locations include covered
is actually a cable called nonmetallic cable and porches and some basements. Many inspectors consider
abbreviated NM. “Romex” is a common brand name ceilings over showers and bathtubs as damp locations,
belonging to one manufacturer of NM cable. but general codes do not specifically cite these as
damp locations.
Grounded: The ground in an electrical system is the return
path through which alternating current electricity flows to Location (wet): Wet locations are subject to direct contact
return to its source (the utility's transformer and ultimately with liquids or the elements. Examples of wet locations
to the power generating station). A grounded conductor is include exterior house walls not protected by a roof,

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 concrete and masonry in contact with the earth, and any maximum amount. Common examples in residential
components buried or in contact with the earth. electrical systems are fuses and circuit breakers.
Multiwire branch circuit: A multiwire branch circuit is a Receptacle: A device into which a plug is inserted and
three-wire branch circuit with two hot (ungrounded) wires through which electricity flows to equipment that uses
and one neutral (grounded) wire. In residential electrical electricity. Receptacles include the familiar single (one
systems, the voltage between the two hot wires is 240 plug) and duplex (two plug) 120-volt devices and the
volts, and the voltage between the hot wires and the
240-volt devices most often seen in laundry rooms to serve
neutral wire is 120 volts. When a multiwire branch circuit
electric clothes dryers.
is operating as intended, the current on the shared neutral
wire is balanced. An indication that a multiwire branch Service drop: The service drop describes overhead
circuit is not operating as intended is when some lights electrical wires beginning at the power pole and ending
are dim and some are much brighter than normal. Split- where the service drop wires connect to the service
wired receptacles that provide the required two 20-amp entrance wires. This is usually at the service point near the
kitchen countertop receptacle circuits are one example of mast on the roof.
a multiwire branch circuit. Clothes dryer and range circuits
are another example. Water heater and air conditioning Service entrance wires: Service entrance wires run from
condenser circuits are usually not multiwire branch the service point to the service equipment. Typically, the
circuits, because there is no neutral wire in the circuit. service entrance wires mark the point in your home wiring
system where the equipment is the responsibility of the
Outlet: An outlet is a connection point where electricity
homeowner and not the utility company.
is taken for use. An outlet could be a receptacle, a light
fixture box, a junction box connected to an oven, or an Ungrounded conductor: An ungrounded conductor is
air conditioning condenser disconnect box. Switch boxes, one that intentionally carries electricity. The common
junction boxes, and panelboards are not outlets. term for an ungrounded conductor in residential
Overcurrent protection device: An overcurrent protection electrical systems is the “hot” or “live” wire or conductor.
device automatically interrupts the flow of electricity if Ungrounded conductors are usually covered with red or
the current flowing through the device exceeds a design black insulation.

Multiwire branch circuits.

Split-wired
receptacle

240V receptacle

Shared-neutral receptacles

Illo 272
CG_Codes ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 171
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 Typical Home Wiring System
Weatherhead prevents moisture from
entering the house.

Service mast creates an anchor

point for service wires.

Service entrance wires supply

electricity to the house from the
utility company’s power lines.

Chandelier Wall switch

Switch loop
Receptacles Separate 120-volt
120‑volt circuit for
microwave oven

GFCI receptacles

Separate 240-volt
240‑volt circuit for
water heater
Electric meter measures the
amount of electrical power
consumed and displays Service panel distributes
the measurement inside electrical power into circuits.
a glass dome.

Separate 240-volt
240‑volt circuit for
Grounding rod must be at least clothes dryer
8 ft.
8' long
long
and
and
is driven
is driven
into
into
thethe
ground outside the house. Grounding conductor
to metal grounding rod

Bonding wire to
Jumper wire is used to
metal water pipe
bypass the water meter and
ensures an uninterrupted
grounding pathway.

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 WIRING SAFETY
Safety should be the primary concern of anyone working
with electricity. Although most household electrical
repairs are simple and straightforward, always use
caution and good judgment when working with electrical
wiring or devices. Common sense can prevent accidents.

Understanding The basic rule of electrical safety is: Always turn off
power to the area or device you are working on. At the

Electrical Circuits main service panel or subpanel, remove the fuse or shut
off the circuit breaker that controls the circuit you are
servicing. Then check to make sure the power is off by
testing for power with a voltage tester. Restore power

A
only when the repair or replacement project is complete.
n electrical circuit is a continuous loop.
Household circuits carry current from the main Follow the safety tips shown on these pages. Never
service panel, throughout the house, and back to the attempt an electrical project beyond your skill or
main service panel. Several switches, receptacles, confidence level. Never attempt to repair or replace your
light fixtures, or appliances may be connected to a main service panel or service entrance head. These
are jobs for a qualified electrician and require that the
single circuit.
power company shuts off power to your house.
Current enters a circuit loop on hot wires and
returns along neutral wires. These wires are color
coded for easy identification. Hot wires are black
or red, and neutral wires are white or light gray. If a circuit carries too much current, it can
For safety, most circuits include a bare copper or overload. A fuse or a circuit breaker protects each
green insulated grounding wire. The grounding wire circuit in case of overloads.
conducts current when wires or equipment are Current returns to the service panel along a
malfunctioning and helps reduce the chance of severe neutral circuit wire. Current then leaves the house on
electrical shock. The service panel also has a bonding a large neutral service wire that returns it to the utility
wire connected to any metal water pipes. pole transformer.

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 General Requirements
Minimum Service Current 2. Recess metal knockout covers in non-metallic
Capacity Requirements boxes and conduit bodies at least ¼ inch from the
1. Provide at least 100-amp service to a single surface of the box or conduit body.
family home.
3. Cover open outlet boxes with a blank cover, a
2. Provide at least 60-amp service to an accessory blank plate, or fixture canopy. Switch plates and
structure. Exceptions to the 60-amp minimum receptacle plates do not provide complete closure
service exist for one- and two-circuit 120-volt for electrical boxes.
service to accessory structures.
4. Ground metal covers and plates.
3. You may use the following wire sizes as a feeder
when the load at the accessory structure is limited Identification of Circuits in Electrical Panels
to one or two 15- or 20-amp, 120-volt branch 1. Provide a legible and permanent marking or label
circuits: (a) use at least #10 AWG copper or #8 that identifies the purpose of circuit breakers,
AWG aluminum wire if the accessory structure has fuses, and other equipment used to disconnect
not more than two 15 or 20 amp, 120 volt branch power from a circuit. Identify the circuit in enough
circuits; (b) use at least #14 AWG copper or #12 detail that it can be distinguished from all other
AWG aluminum if the accessory structure has circuits. Example: do not identify a circuit as
only one 15 amp, 120 volt branch circuit and use general lighting. Identify the specific rooms or
at least the same size feeder wire as used for the outlets served by the circuit. A marking or label is
branch circuit. not required if the purpose of the disconnecting
equipment is self-evident. Use marking or labeling
4. Provide an equipment grounding wire with materials that will withstand the environment
the feeder wires, and refer to the grounding where the disconnecting equipment is located.
requirements section if there are at two or more
branch circuits in the accessory structure. 2. Locate the circuit identification on the face
of the panelboard enclosure or on the inside
Closure of Unused Openings panelboard door.
1. Close all openings in boxes, conduit bodies,
and cabinets with material that provides Prohibited Locations for Electrical Panels
protection equal to the original opening cover. This 1. Do not locate electrical panels and circuit breakers
means using plastic or metal knockout covers. Tape and fuses in clothes closets, bathrooms, over
and cardboard do not provide equal protection. stairway steps, or in spaces designated for storage.

Cover open conduit knockouts in electrical boxes with an Label each circuit in all electrical panels so that the purpose
approved plastic or metal cap (inset). of each circuit is clear.

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 Working Clearances directly above or below an indoor enclosure from
around Electrical Panels the floor to the ceiling or 6 feet above the enclosure,
1. Inspect your electrical enclosures (cabinets) to whichever is less.
make sure they conform to code. If not, hire a
professional electrician to relocate it. The following 5. Do not locate anything not associated with
rules apply to electrical enclosures (cabinets) that the electrical system directly above or below
require access while interior parts are energized. an outdoor enclosure from grade to 6 feet
Examples of these enclosures include electrical above the enclosure. Examples include hose bibbs,
panels and subpanels, and air conditioner and exhaust duct terminations, and appliance vents.
furnace service-disconnect boxes.
6. Provide access to the clear working space around
2. Provide a clear working space around electrical the enclosure (cabinet). Do not block access with
enclosures that is at least 36 inches deep, at least shelves, workbenches, or other difficult to move
30 inches wide (or as wide as the enclosure if it is objects.
wider than 30 inches), and at least 78 inches high
(or as high as the enclosure if it is higher than 7. Install electrical panels and circuit breakers and
78 inches). Measure the clear working space from fuses so that the circuit breaker handle or fuse
any exposed energized parts or from the cover in is not more than 79 inches above the floor or
front of covered energized parts. ground when the center of the handle is in its
highest position.
3. The enclosure should have enough clearance that
the enclosure door can be opened at least 90 degrees. 8. You may install electrical panels rated not more
than 200 amps in existing buildings where the
4. Do not locate equipment, pipes, and ducts that working space height is less than 78 inches. This
are not associated with the electrical system does not apply to new construction.

Ideal height 60"

(eye level)

Minimum
78" high
unobstructed
access

Minimum
36" deep
unobstructed
access in front

Minimum
30" wide
unobstructed
access

Your equpment should include a safe space above, in front of, and below all electrical panels and similar electrical equipment. If
your panel does not meet these standards, have it relocated by a professional.

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 Minimum: two Minimum: two
Minimum: two 14-gauge
14‑gauge wires
16-gauge wires
16‑gauge 18-gauge wires
18‑gauge
Maximum: four 12-gauge
12‑gauge Maximum: four
(or three 10-gauge)
10‑gauge) wires Maximum: two
14-gauge wires
14‑gauge
14-gauge wires
14‑gauge

Use wire connectors rated for the wires you are connecting. Wire connectors are color-coded by size, but the coding scheme
varies by manufacturer. The wire connectors shown above come from one major manufacturer. To ensure safe connections,
each connector is rated for both minimum and maximum wire capacity. These connectors can be used to connect both
conducting wires and grounding wires. Green wire connectors are used only for grounding wires.

Splicing Wires
1. Splice (join) wires using only listed devices, such
as appropriate-sized wire connectors. Use the
wire connector according to manufacturer’s
recommendations regarding the minimum and
maximum number and size of wires that the
connector can accommodate.

2. Cover spliced wires with material equal to the

original insulation. This does not include electrical
tape or similar materials.

3. For splice wires that will be buried in the ground,

use only devices listed for direct burial and install
them according to manufacturer’s instructions.

4. Provide access to spliced wires unless the splice Push‑in connectors are a relatively new product for joining
wires. Instead of twisting the bare wire ends together, you
and splicing device are specifically allowed to strip off about 3⁄4" of insulation and insert them into a hole in
be concealed. Access is usually provided by an the connector. The connectors come with two to four holes
accessible, covered junction box. sized for various gauge wires. These connectors are perfect
for inexperienced DIYers, because they do not pull apart like a
5. Do not place wire splices in a raceway unless the sloppy twisted connection can.
raceway has a removable cover.
Splicing Aluminum & Copper Wires
1. Splice (join) aluminum and copper wires together
using devices listed for splicing aluminum and
copper wires. Look for a mark or label, such as
AL/CU, on the device or on the package for
assurance that the device is listed for splicing
aluminum and copper wires. Some wire nuts
sold for residential use are not listed for splicing
aluminum and copper wires.

2. Use only inhibitors and antioxidant compounds

that are approved for splicing aluminum
and copper wires. These materials should
Twist wire connectors over the ends of individual conductors
that have been stripped of insulation. Pre-twist wires together not degrade or damage the wires, wire
with pliers or linesmans’ pliers (optional). Do not leave bare insulation, or equipment. Read and follow
wire exposed beneath the bottom of the connector. manufacturer’s instructions.

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 Length of Wires Extending from Boxes
1. Extend wires at least 3 inches beyond the opening
of any electrical box, junction, or switch point if
the opening is less than 8 inches in any direction.
This applies to most switch, receptacle, and
light fixture mounting boxes used in residential
electrical systems.

2. Extend wires at least 6 inches beyond where the

wires emerge from the raceway or cable sheathing.
Example: NM cable enters a single residential
switch box with 1 inch of intact sheathing (outer
cover). Begin the 6 inches measurement where the
sheathing ends. The cable should extend at least
7 inches from the rear of the box. The NM cable
should also extend at least 3 inches beyond the
outside edge of the box.
Extend wires past the box opening at least 3".

Connecting Wires to Terminals

1. Remove insulation from wires and connect wires wires. Example: general codes require one wire
to terminals without damaging the wire. Do not per terminal for the grounded (neutral) wires
connect damaged wires to terminals. Example: if and allow two or more same-gauge wires per
you nick, damage, or cut strands from a stranded terminal for the equipment grounding wires.
wire, cut the wire back to where it is full size and Example: many circuit breakers allow only one hot
use the full, undamaged wire. (ungrounded) wire per circuit breaker terminal.

2. Connect more than one wire to a terminal only 3. Connect aluminum wires to terminals only if the
if the terminal is identified to accept multiple terminal is identified to accept aluminum wires.

VIOLATION! Do not connect multiple neutral or hot wires to VIOLATION! Never connect multiple hot wires to the same
a terminal (the neutral bus bar seen here has two neutral terminal on circuit breakers or other electrical devices unless
conductors connected to single terminal). specifically allowed by the manufacturer.

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 Wire Color Codes WIRE COLOR CHART
1. Use wires with white or gray insulation or wires
with three white stripes on other than green WIRE COLOR FUNCTION
insulation as neutral (grounded) wires.
White neutral wire: at zero voltage
in many, but not all, circuits
2. Use wires with green insulation, or wires with
green insulation and at least one yellow stripe
as equipment grounding wires. You may use Black hot wire carrying current at
full current & voltage
uninsulated (bare) wires as equipment grounding
wires in most circuits.
Red hot wire carrying current at
full current & voltage
3. You may use any color other than white, gray, or
green as hot (ungrounded) wires. The common
colors are red and black. White, hot wire carrying current at
Black markings full current & voltage

4. You may use a wire with white or gray insulation

as a hot (ungrounded) wire if the wire is part of a Green serves as a
grounding pathway
cable (such as NM) and if you permanently mark
it as a hot (ungrounded) conductor at all places
where the wire is visible and accessible. This Bare copper serves as a
grounding pathway
marking is usually done by wrapping the end of the
wire with black or red electrical tape. The marking
must encircle the insulation. Individual wires are color-coded to identify their
function. In some circuit installations, the white wire
serves as a hot wire that carries voltage. If so, this white
Neutral & Equipment wire may be labeled with black tape or paint to identify
Grounding Wire Continuity it as a hot wire.
1. Connect neutral (grounded) wires together
in device boxes if the neutral wire is part of a
multiwire branch circuit. Do not rely on any device, WIRE SIZE CHART
such as a receptacle or light fixture, to provide
the connection for the neutral wire in a multiwire WIRE GAUGE WIRE CAPACITY & USE
branch circuit. #6 55 amps; central air conditioner,
electric furnace
2. Connect equipment grounding wires together in all
device boxes. Do not rely on any device, such as a #8 40 amps; electric range, central
receptacle or light fixture, to provide the connection air conditioner

for the equipment grounding wire in any circuit. #10 30 amps; window air conditioner,
clothes dryer
3. Install a wire (called a pigtail) between the
#12 20 amps; light fixtures, receptacles,
connected wires and any device in the box.
microwave oven

#14 15 amps; light fixtures,

receptacles

#16 light‑duty extension cords

#18 thermostats, doorbells,

to 22 security systems

Wire sizes (shown actual size) are categorized by the

Pigtail
American Wire Gauge system. The larger the wire size,
the smaller the AWG number. Amp ratings in this chart
Use a pigtail when you need to connect multiple wires assume that the wires are contained in NM cable.
together and use one wire to connect to a terminal.

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 Shut off power at the main electrical
service panel before beginning any
work. In some cases you may shut
off individual circuits, but the safer
precaution is always to throw the
main breaker.

Service & Main Service Panel

Disconnecting Electrical Service 7. Service disconnecting switches or circuit breakers
1. Provide equipment to disconnect all electrical should not be installed more than 79 inches above
service to a building using not more than six the floor or ground.
sets of switches or six sets of circuit breakers.
The disconnecting equipment may be in one
cabinet or in a group of cabinets in the same
general location.

2. Label the service disconnecting equipment as such.

The label must be permanent and clearly marked.

3. Use only service disconnecting equipment listed

and labeled for that purpose. The electric meter
and meter enclosure are not service equipment.
Do not rely on removing the electric meter to
disconnect electrical service.

4. The service disconnecting equipment should be

installed in a readily accessible place where every
building occupant has access.

5. The service disconnecting equipment may be

located outside the building or inside the building
as close as possible to where the service entrance
conductors enter the building. Check with the
local building official for information concerning
your area. Fifteen feet is one typical maximum, but
the distance may be less in some jurisdictions.
A service disconnecting switch may be required when the
6. Service disconnecting equipment should not be main service panel is located too far from the point where the
located in bathrooms. service entrance conductors enter the house.

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 IDENTIFYING YOUR SERVICE
Aboveground service. In this common
configuration, the service wires Weatherhead
from the closest transformer (called
the service drop) are connected
to the power distribution system
in your house through a protective
hood called a weatherhead. The
service entrance wires are routed
to a power meter that’s owned by
your utility company but housed in
a base that may be your property.
From the meter the entrance wires Service wires
enter your house through the wall
and are routed to the main service
panel, where they are connected
to the service equipment. Other Service entrance wires
aboveground configurations
are allowed.

Conduit

Power meter
Service
entrance wires

Meter base

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 Underground service lateral.
Increasingly, homebuilders are
choosing to have power supplied
to their new homes through
underground service wires instead of
an overhead service drop. Running
the wires in the ground eliminates
problems with power outages caused
by ice accumulation or fallen trees,
but it entails a completely different
set of wire and conduit requirements.
For the homeowner, however, the
differences are minimal because
the hookups are identical once the
power service reaches the meter.

Service
entrance wires

Power meter

Meter base

Strap

Conduit

Underground service wires

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 Inspect your
service clearance
to make sure 3' clearance required
individual service
wires are not
within 3' of doors,
operable windows,
and decks.

3' clearance required

Illo 275
CG_Codes
06-15-2009
Overhead Service 3. You may reduce the 8-foot vertical clearance to at
Drop Wire Clearances least 3 feet of vertical clearance if: (a) the voltage
1. Provide at least 3 feet of clearance between service between wires is not more than (≤) 300 volts and
drop and service entrance wires and porches, (b) the roof is guarded or isolated; or if (c) the
roof slope is at least 4 inches in 12 inches. Many
decks, stairs, ladders, fire escapes, balconies,
residential service drops comply with this exception.
sides of doors, and sides and bottoms of operable
windows (not the tops of operable windows even
4. Provide at least 10 feet of vertical clearance
if the top sash is operable). Clearance is required
between service drop wires and a roof designed
only to service drops and service entrance wires
for regular pedestrian traffic. Access to such a roof
that consist of individual wires that are not would usually be by stairs or by a door, and the
protected by a raceway or outer jacket. This means roof edges would be protected by a guard.
that clearances are usually required for utility
service drop wires and are not required for SE 5. Provide at least 18 inches of vertical clearance
type service entrance cable and for wires or cables between service drop wires and a roof if: (a) the
installed in conduit or tubing. wires pass only over the overhang portion of the
roof, and (b) not more than 6 feet of wire pass over
2. Provide at least 8 feet of vertical clearance between not more than 4 lineal feet of roof surface measured
service drop wires and a roof not designed for horizontally, and (c) the wires enter a through-the-
regular pedestrian traffic, with a slope less than 4 roof mast or terminate at an approved support.
inches in 12 inches. Access to such a roof would
usually be by a ladder, through a window, or 6. Maintain all required clearances above the roof for
through a maintenance hatch. at least 3 feet in all directions from the roof ’s edge.

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 Service Drop Clearance Aboveground
1. Measure the vertical clearance between service
drop wires and the ground, walkway, driveway, or
street beginning at the lowest point of the service
drop wires and ending at the surface under the
wire’s lowest point. The lowest point of the service
drop wires is often at the drip loop, but it could be
at the point of attachment to the house or it could
be where the wires enter the house.

2. Provide at least 10 feet of vertical clearance

between service drop wires and areas or sidewalks
accessed by pedestrians only.

3. Provide at least 12 feet of vertical clearance

between service drop wires and residential
property and driveways.

4. Provide at least 18 feet of vertical clearance between

service drop wires and public streets, alleys, roads,
or parking areas subject to truck traffic.

SAFETY TIP The service drop must occur at least 10' above ground level,
and as much as 18' in some cases. Occasionally, this means
If your electrical service entry does not conform to the that you must run the conduit for the service mast up through
codes, hire a professional to update it. the eave of your roof and seal the roof penetration with
a boot.

> 18'

> 12'

> 10'

Safe clearance between service drop wires and the ground.

Illo 276 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 183
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 Electrical Grounding & Bonding

O ne of the important purposes of grounding and

bonding can be summarized in this simple rule:
Electricity wants to return to its source and will take
current should quickly rise to the point where it trips
a circuit breaker or blows a fuse, clearing the fault.
But what if the water pipe is not bonded? Perhaps
all available paths to get there. When the electrical a water softener has been added to the system,
system is working as intended, electricity enters interrupting the electrical continuity of some or all
through the hot (ungrounded) wire, does its work, and of the water pipe. In our example, the water pipe is
returns to its source (usually the utility’s transformer) still energized, but there is no way for the electricity
through the neutral (grounded) wire. to return to its source; that is, until someone grabs
When electricity finds its way out of the intended a metal water faucet handle and is standing on the
path, things get dangerous. Example: a rat sits on ground or on some conducting surface. At that time,
copper water pipe and chews through the insulation the electricity finds its path to its source through the
on electrical cable exposing the hot (ungrounded) person. The person is injured or killed.
wire. After electrocuting the unfortunate rat, the When trying to understand grounding and
exposed wire lands on the water pipe. If the water bonding, think like electricity. If metal can become
pipe is connected without electrical interruption energized, however unlikely that is, you must assume
to the electricity’s source (through bonding), the that it will become energized. Bonding metal together
electricity thinks that the water pipe is the neutral and connecting the metal to ground in an approved
(grounded) wire and happily starts flowing through manner lets you, not the electricity, decide how
the water pipe. This is a ground fault. The electric electricity will flow in a fault condition.

Black hot
Service panel wire Grounding wire
White
neutral
wire

Grounding
screw

Grounding
wire

Loose hot wire

Grounding wire to
Grounding wire to
grounding rods
88'ft. grounding rods
88'ft.
66'ft.minimum
minimum 66'ft.minimum
minimum

Normal current flow: Current enters the electrical box along a Ground fault: Current is detoured by a loose wire in contact
black hot wire, then returns to the service panel along a white with the metal box. The grounding wire picks it up and
neutral wire. channels it safely back to the main service panel where the
circuit breaker trips or the fuse blows.

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 Inspect Electrical Panels
for Proper Grounding
Grounding & Bonding
at Service Panels & Subpanels
1. The neutral (grounded) wire should be connected Metallic conduit must be physically and electrically connected
to the grounding electrode wire at the nearest to panel cabinets. A bonding bushing may be required, in
accessible point at or before the service equipment some cases, where all of a knockout is not removed.
(main disconnect). The service equipment
is usually the most convenient accessible
grounding point, because the meter enclosure
and points before it are usually locked or secured Neutral
Neutral bus
bus
and not accessible. The grounding electrode
wire connects the neutral (grounded) wire to a
grounding electrode.
Grounding
Grounding bus
bus
2. The neutral (grounded) wire should not
be connected to ground at any other place
downstream from the service equipment grounding
point. An exception to this rule exists when two
buildings are supplied by one electric service.

3. All metal parts of the electrical system should be

connected to the neutral (grounded) wire. This
includes service equipment and panelboard cases,
The neutral and grounding wires should not be connected to
any metal electrical conduit or tubing, and all the same bus in most subpanels. The grounding bus should
metal pipes in the building (such as metal water be bonded to the subpanel cabinet. The neutral bus should
and gas pipe). not be bonded to the subpanel cabinet.

Service drop wires

Service entrance wires Main breaker (service equipment) Subpanel

Hot Feeder

Hot Neutral

Branch
circuit
Meter Neutral breakers

Bonding jumper Ground

Neutral bus

Grounded
electrode

Bonding jumper

Illo
Parts 279
of a common electrical service configuration.
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 Service Grounding at Two Buildings grounding bus. Connect all second building
Using Four-Wire Feeder branch circuit equipment grounding wires to the
1. Use this procedure when installing a new feeder grounding bus. (d) Bond the subpanel case to
the grounding bus. (e) Connect the feeder cable
cable to a second building from the building
neutral (grounded) wire to an isolated grounded
with the primary electric service. (a) Install a
bus at the second building subpanel. Do not
feeder cable to the second building that contains connect the grounded bus to the subpanel case or
an equipment grounding wire. Use a #10 copper to the grounding bus.
equipment grounding wire for feeders above
20 amps to 60 amps or less. (b) Install a grounding 2. You are not required to use this procedure if there
electrode at both buildings. (c) Connect the feeder is only one branch circuit in the second building
cable equipment grounding wire to the grounding and if the new feeder cable for that one branch
electrode wire at the second building subpanel circuit contains an equipment grounding wire.

Wiring diagram Main dwelling Detached building

for wiring a feeder Hot
from the main
Hot
service panel to
a subpanel in a
separate building.

Neutral bus
Ground

Grounding bus Neutral bus Grounding bus

Jumpers

Electrode Neutral Electrode

Illo 280
Grounding Electrodes & Electrode Wires
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General Requirements connect (bond) the grounding electrodes. Bonding
1. Every electrical service should be provided at jumpers may be connected between grounding
least one approved type of grounding electrode. electrodes at any convenient point.
The most common grounding electrodes are
underground metal water pipe, driven rod and 4. The grounding electrode wire may be connected
pipe, and concrete encased. at any convenient grounding electrode. Protect
grounding electrode wires that are subject to physical
2. All grounding electrodes that may be available damage with approved conduit or tubing, such as
at a building should be bonded together. General intermediate metallic conduit or PVC conduit.
codes do not require that all possible types of
grounding electrodes be installed. They require 5. Protect grounding electrode wires that are smaller
that if a grounding electrode is installed, it must than #6 AWG with approved conduit regardless of
be connected (bonded) to all other grounding whether the wire is subject to physical damage.
electrodes and to the neutral (grounded) wire.
6. Install a grounding electrode wire based on the size
3. A bonding jumper at least as large as the of the service entrance conductors. Most grounding
grounding electrode wire should be used to electrode wires should be #6 or #8 copper.

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 7. Metal gas pipe should never be used as a grounding electrode. Use galvanized materials
grounding electrode. or other corrosion-resistant coating on iron and
steel pipes.
Underground Water Pipe Electrodes
1. Use metal underground water pipe that is in 2. You may use a stainless steel, zinc-coated or
contact with the ground for at least 10 feet as copper-coated steel, or copper rod that is at least
a grounding electrode. This includes all metal ⅝-inch diameter and at least 8 feet long as a
water pipe materials, such as copper and steel, grounding electrode.
and all metal water pipes, such as water service
pipes, metal well casing pipe, and metal irrigation 3. Do not use aluminum as rod and pipe electrodes.
system pipes.
4. Do not use one rod or pipe electrode as the
2. You must consider all underground water pipe that only grounding electrode. Install at least one
satisfies the previous conditions as a grounding other grounding electrode of any approved
electrode and connect (bond) underground water type. Bond all grounding electrodes together.
pipe to all other grounding electrodes. This provision does not apply if the rod or pipe
electrode has a resistance to earth of not more
3. Do not connect a grounding electrode wire to any than 25 ohms.
interior metal water pipe at a point that is more
than 5 feet from where the underground water Concrete Encased Electrodes
pipe enters the building. Do not use any interior 1. You may use at least ½-inch-diameter reinforcing
metal water pipe that is more than 5 feet from bar or at least #4 AWG bare copper wire as a
where the water pipe enters the building as a concrete encased grounding electrode. The
conductor for a grounding electrode. Example: do electrode material must be at least 20 feet
not connect the grounding electrode wire at a long. Do not use reinforcing bar that is not
water heater cold water pipe if the pipe is more electrically conductive or that is coated in
than 5 feet from where the water pipe enters non-conductive material.
the building.
2. Encase the reinforcing bar or wire in at least
4. Do not use underground metal water pipe as the 2 inches of concrete. Place the bar or wire in either
only grounding electrode. Install at least one other the horizontal or vertical part of the concrete
type of grounding electrode and connect (bond) it that is in direct contact with the ground. Do not
to the underground metal water pipe. place a moisture barrier between the concrete and
the ground.
5. Install bonding jumper wires around devices that
might interrupt electrical continuity. Such devices 3. You may use wire ties or similar means to connect
include water meters, water pressure reducers, (bond) reinforcing bars together to achieve the
water softeners, and water filtration systems. 20-foot minimum length.

Rod & Pipe Electrodes 4. Concrete encased electrodes are also called ufer
1. You may use metal pipe or conduit that is at least grounding electrodes after the man who designed
¾ inch in diameter and at least 8 feet long as a this grounding electrode system.

Grounding Electrode Wire Installation

Aluminum Grounding Electrode Wires 2. Do not install aluminum or copper-clad
1. Do not use aluminum or copper-clad aluminum aluminum grounding electrode wires within
grounding electrode wires if the wire is in direct 18 inches of the ground when the wire is
contact with masonry or the ground or if the wire installed outside.
is in a corrosive environment.

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 Connecting Grounding Electrode Wires 3. Use bonding jumpers that are at least the same
to the Electrode wire size as the grounding electrode wire.
1. Use one of the following methods to connect
grounding electrode wires to grounding electrodes: Metal Water Pipe Bonding
(a) a pipe fitting, pipe plug, or other approved 1. Connect (bond) interior metal water pipes to
device screwed into a pipe or pipe fitting or (b) a the service equipment enclosure, the neutral
listed bolted clamp made of cast bronze or brass or (grounded) wire at the service equipment,
of plain or malleable iron. the grounding electrode conductor, or to any
grounding electrode.
2. You may use a listed metal strap ground
clamp to connect indoor communications 2. Use a bonding jumper or wire that is at least the
equipment grounding electrode wires to a same wire size as the grounding electrode wire.
grounding electrode.
3. Make the bonding connection point accessible.
3. Make accessible the connection point of grounding
electrode wires and bonding jumpers to Metal Gas Pipe Bonding
grounding electrodes. The connection point need 1. Connect (bond) interior metal gas pipes and other
not be accessible for buried or concrete encased metal pipes to the service equipment enclosure,
grounding electrodes. the neutral (grounded) wire at the service
equipment, the grounding electrode conductor, or
4. Clean grounding electrode wire connection points to any grounding electrode.
and all clamps and fittings of non-conductive
materials, such as paint. 2. You may use the equipment grounding wire
that serves the gas appliance as the bonding
Connections around Equipment wire. Number 10 AWG copper wire is the
& Insulated Fittings largest equipment grounding wire for almost all
1. Install bonding jumpers around equipment such residential branch circuits. This means that: (a) a
as water meters, pressure reducing valves, water separate bonding wire between the gas pipe and
softeners, water filtration equipment, dielectric the service equipment is usually not necessary
fittings, and other equipment and fittings that (although some jurisdictions require one anyway),
interrupt the electrical continuity of metal piping. and (b) #10 AWG copper wire is usually the largest
required gas pipe bonding wire.
2. Make bonding jumpers long enough to permit
removal of the equipment and maintain 3. Make the bonding connection point accessible.
electrical continuity.
Bonding Corrugated Stainless Steel
Gas Tubing
1. Install a #6 AWG copper bonding wire that is
connected to a listed clamp on gas supply systems
using corrugated stainless steel gas tubing (CSST).
Limit the length of the wire to not more than 75 feet.
This bonding connection is for lightning protection.

2. Install the bonding connection at the first length

of steel or copper pipe before the CSST. This is
usually at the gas meter or where the propane pipe
enters the home.

3. Some CSST is arc-resistant and does not need

a separate bonding connection. This CSST
Proper CSST bonding is very tricky to determine and has very usually has a black jacket. Verify CSST bonding
high danger potential if incorrect. Have a qualified electrician requirements using manufacturer's instructions
determine if CSST in your house is properly bonded. and by contacting your building inspector.
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 Electrical Branch Circuit Requirements

E very electrical circuit has its limits. Among the

more basic tasks in evaluating your existing
wiring system or planning a system expansion is
A B
A duplex
receptacle
(A) contains two
outlets. A single
to identify which loads will be drawing from which receptacle (B)
circuits so you can establish what each circuit contains
capacity will need to be. In addition to letting you one outlet.
plan the circuits wisely, specific load knowledge lets
you create a more balanced service panel, lessening
the chances that you’ll trip breakers.

Branch Circuit Load Limits

15-amp & 20-amp Circuits do not include light fixtures. This means that
1. Use only 15-amp and 20-amp, 120-volt circuits for all fixed devices (such as a permanently wired
multiple outlet branch circuits. A multiple outlet disposal or hot water circulating pump) on a
branch circuit has more than one light fixture multiple outlet branch circuit may not exceed
and/or receptacle on the same circuit. One duplex 7.5 amps (about 900 watts) on a 15-amp multiple
receptacle counts as two receptacles. A circuit that outlet branch circuit and may not exceed 10 amps
serves one duplex receptacle is a multiple outlet (about 1,200 watts) on a 20-amp multiple outlet
branch circuit. This provision does not apply to branch circuit.
a circuit that serves one single receptacle or one
single light fixture. 30-amp Circuits
1. Do not connect one plug-and-cord device that
2. Use only 120-volt branch circuits to supply exceeds 80 percent of a 30-amp branch circuit’s
residential light fixtures, receptacles for plug-and- amperage rating. This means that one device (such
cord connected loads not more than 1,440 watts, as a clothes dryer) may not exceed 24 amps (about
and motor loads less than .25 horsepower. 5,760 watts) on a 30-amp, 240-volt branch circuit.

3. You may use either 120- or 240-volt branch circuits 2. Do not use a 30-amp branch circuit to serve loads
to supply one plug-and-cord connected or one other than a fixed device, such as a water heater, or
permanently wired appliance rated more than a single plug-and-cord connected device, such as
1,440 watts. This means that branch circuits rated a welder.
more than 120 volts are effectively limited to
serving a single receptacle or permanently wired
fixed equipment. SAFETY TIP
Always work with your local electrical inspector
4. Do not connect one or more fixed devices that
and an experienced wiring installer when adding
in total exceed 50 percent of a multiple outlet electrical circuits.
branch circuit’s amperage rating. Fixed devices
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 Room Air Conditioner Circuits You may not use the kitchen branch circuits to
1. Use wires that are rated at least 125 percent of supply light fixtures or other outlets in these
a window or through-wall air conditioner’s total rooms, and you may not use the kitchen branch
rated current load if: (a) the air conditioner is circuits to supply outlets in other rooms or outside
connected to a receptacle by a plug-and-cord, the house.
(b) the air conditioner’s total rated current load is
shown on its nameplate (not just the individual 2. Provide a separate dedicated branch circuit for
motor load), (c) the air conditioner’s total rated the kitchen range hood receptacle, if a range
current load on the nameplate is not more than hood receptacle is installed. It is recommended,
40 amps and 250 volts, and (d) the branch circuit but not required, that this be a 20-amp, 120-volt
overcurrent protection device does not exceed branch circuit.
the branch circuit wire ampacity rating and the
ampacity rating of the receptacle. Example: a Bathroom Receptacle Circuit
plug-and-cord connected room air conditioner’s 1. Provide at least one 20-amp, 120-volt branch
total rated current load is 17 amps. Use wires rated circuit to serve only receptacles located in the
for 1.25 times 17 amps, which equals 21.25 amps bathroom(s). You may not use the bathroom
(#10 copper wire). branch circuit to supply light fixtures or other
outlets in the bathroom, and you may not use
2. Do not install a window or through-wall air the bathroom branch circuit to supply outlets in
conditioner on a 15- or a 20-amp multiple outlet other rooms.
branch circuit if the air conditioner’s total rated
current load is more than 50 percent of the branch 2. You may provide each bathroom with its own
circuit’s rating (80 percent for dedicated circuits). dedicated 20-amp, 120-volt branch circuit. In this
case, you may use the branch circuit to supply
Kitchen Small Appliance Circuits other bathroom outlets, such as light fixtures and
1. Provide at least two 20-amp, 120-volt branch exhaust fans.
circuits to serve only receptacles in the kitchen,
pantry, breakfast and dining areas, and similar
Laundry Receptacle Circuit
rooms. You may use the kitchen receptacle circuits
1. Provide at least one 20-amp, 120-volt branch
to power a refrigerator, a wall clock, and the
circuit to serve only receptacles located in the
electrical requirements for gas cooking equipment.
laundry area. You may not use the laundry
branch circuit to supply light fixtures or other
outlets in the laundry, and you may not use the
laundry branch circuit to supply outlets in other
rooms. Electric clothes dryers require a dedicated
240-volt, 30-amp circuit.

Garage Receptacle Circuit

1. Provide at least one 20-amp, 120-volt branch
circuit to serve only receptacles located in the
garage and readily accessible receptacles located
outside the house. You may not use the garage
receptacle branch circuit to supply light fixtures or
other outlets in the garage, and you may not use
the garage branch circuit to supply outlets in other
areas inside or outside the house.

2. Provide at least one receptacle outlet for each

vehicle storage bay in attached garages and in
detached garages that are provided with power.
General codes do not specify the type or rating of
Air‑conditioner load ratings can be found on the nameplate. the receptacle.

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 Multiwire Branch Circuits
1. Run multiwire branch circuit wires from adjacent
slots on the same panelboard. It is safer to
originate a multiwire branch circuit from adjacent
slots on the same side of the panelboard. This
helps avoid overloading the shared neutral
(grounded) wire. A

2. Use a two-pole overcurrent device or two single

pole devices that are connected by an approved
handle tie to protect most multiwire branch
circuits. Do not connect circuit breaker handles
with nails, wires, or other unapproved handle
tie substitutes.

3. Use wire ties or similar devices to group all

ungrounded (hot) and grounded (neutral) wires of
each multiwire branch circuit in the cabinet where The receptacle yoke is removed (A) when it is split-wired using
the circuit originates. a multiwire branch circuit.

Connect both handles of circuit breakers protecting a multiwire branch circuit with an approved handle tie.

QUANTITY OF RECEPTACLES ON A BRANCH CIRCUIT

A widely held belief exists that the IRC limits the number of receptacles on a residential branch circuit. This belief is
incorrect. The IRC only requires that the number of branch circuits is sufficient to supply the connected load and that the
load on any branch circuit does not exceed the IRC limits. This belief may come from restrictions on the number of outlets
(both lights and receptacles) allowed for commercial electrical circuits. Commercial applications allow about 13 outlets on
a 20-amp circuit and about 10 outlets on a 15-amp circuit. Wiring residential general lighting branch circuits based on
these commercial outlet limits is often a good idea but is not required by the IRC.

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 Current Wiring Methods
Table 36 lists the wiring methods currently allowed
in residential construction. Note that certain wiring TABLE 36: CURRENT WIRING METHODS
methods may not be used in certain applications. WIRING METHOD ABBREVIATION
Armored cable AC
Approved Uses for Wiring Methods Electrical metallic tubing EMT
1. Table 37 lists when a wiring method may be used
Electrical nonmetallic tubing ENT
in a specific application. Note that some wiring
methods have restrictions or limitations shown by Flexible metal conduit FMC

the following superscripts: (1) use less than 6 feet Intermediate metal conduit IMC
of LFC if the conduit walls are not reinforced, Liquidtight flexible conduit LFC
(2) insulate the neutral (grounded) wire unless the Metal‑clad cable MC
cable is used to supply other buildings on the same Nonmetallic sheathed cable NM
property, (3) insulate the neutral (grounded) wire,
Rigid PVC conduit RNC
(4) use wires approved for wet locations and seal
Rigid metallic conduit RMC
raceways to prevent water entry, (5) use materials
listed as sunlight resistant, (6) protect metal Service entrance cable SE
raceways from corrosion, (7) use Schedule 80 RNC, Surface raceways SR
(8) use materials listed as sunlight resistant if Underground feeder cable UF
exposed to direct sunlight, (9) use less than 6 feet Underground service cable USE
of conduit.

TABLE 37: CURRENT WIRING METHODS ALLOWED USES

ALLOWED APPLICATION AC EMT ENT FMC IMC LFC1 MC NM SR SE UF USE
RMC
RNC

Branch circuits OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK3 OK NO

Damp locations NO OK OK OK4

OK OK OK NO NO OK OK OK

Direct burial NO OK6

NO NO OK6
OK OK 6
NO NO NO OK NO

Embedded in concrete below grade NO OK6 OK NO OK6 NO NO NO NO NO NO NO

Embedded in concrete in dry location NO OK OK NO OK NO NO NO NO NO NO NO

Embedded in masonry NO OK OK NO OK6

OK OK NO NO NO NO NO

Embedded in plaster in dry location OK OK OK OK OK OK OK NO NO OK OK NO

Exposed not subject to damage OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK

Exposed subject to damage NO NO NO NO OK7 NO NO NO NO NO NO NO

Feeder OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK NO OK2
OK OK2

Fished in masonry voids OK NO NO OK NO OK OK OK NO OK OK NO

In masonry voids & cells in damp location NO OK6
OK OK4
OK6
OK OK NO NO OK OK NO
or below grade
In masonry voids & cells in dry location OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK NO OK OK NO

Indoors (e.g., in stud walls) OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK OK NO

8
Service entrance NO OK OK OK9
OK OK 9
OK NO NO OK NO OK

Wet locations & exposed to sunlight NO OK OK 8

OK4
OK OK OK NO NO OK OK 5
OK5

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 Rules for NM & UF Cable
1. Use Table 38 to determine the maximum ampacity
and overcurrent protection of NM and UF cable.
NM and UF cable is often referred to by the
trade name Romex. This table applies to almost
all branch circuit and feeder wiring in modern
residential electrical systems. Example: the
maximum rating for a circuit breaker protecting Rigid metal conduit has threaded ends for making watertight
Number 12 copper wire is 20 amps. connections with female-threaded fittings and couplings.

TABLE 38: NM & UF CABLE

MAXIMUM AMPACITY
WIRE COPPER ALUMINUM
SIZE WIRE WIRE
(AWG) (AMPS) (AMPS) A B C

14 15 ‑‑
Electrical nonmetallic tubing (A) may be used inside, and
12 20 15
outside if it is rated as sunlight resistant. Liquid-tight flexible
conduit can be non-metallic (B) or it can be metallic conduit
10 30 25 with a non-metallic sheath (C).

8 40 30

6 55 40

4 70 55

3 85 65

2 95 75

1 110 85 Non‑metallic sheathed cable is available in the most common

gauges used in residential construction.

TABLE 39: MAXIMUM HOLE OR NOTCH SIZE IN STUDS & JOISTS

FRAMING MEMBER MAXIMUM HOLE SIZE MAXIMUM NOTCH SIZE

2 × 4 load‑bearing stud 17⁄16" diameter ⁄8" deep

7

2 × 4 nonload‑bearing stud 21⁄8" diameter 17⁄16" deep

2 × 6 load‑bearing stud 21⁄4" diameter 13⁄8" deep

2 × 6 nonload‑bearing stud 35⁄16" diameter 23⁄16" deep

2 × 6 joists 17⁄8" diameter ⁄8" deep

7

2 × 8 joists 23⁄8" diameter 11⁄4" deep

2 × 10 joists 31⁄16" diameter 11⁄2" deep

2 × 12 joists 33⁄4" diameter 17⁄8" deep

This framing member chart shows the maximum sizes for holes and notches that can be cut into studs and joists when
running cables. When boring holes, there must be at least 5⁄8" of wood between the edge of a stud and the hole and at
least 2" between the edge of a joist and the hole. Joists can be notched only in the end 1⁄3 of the overall span, never in the
middle 1⁄3 of the joist.

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 NM & UF Cable Installation 4. Support NM, UF, AC, and MC cable every 4½ feet.
1. Use NM and UF cable where the cable is not Use wire staples or other approved fasteners to
subject to physical damage. The term “subject support vertical runs of NM, UF, AC, and MC
to physical damage” is undefined and subject to cable. Staple the cable only on the flat edge.
interpretation. Your local building inspector will Note that wiring methods need not always
define what this means in your area. Locations be secured to be considered supported. Cable
that may be considered subject to physical damage run across the tops of joists and truss chords
include those within easy reach. Examples may is usually considered supported without being
include inside cabinets, in unfinished walls, and secured to the joists. Cable must be secured to
attached to finished walls below about 7 feet above be considered supported when it is run vertically
the floor. Cable run in attics and crawlspaces is not and when it is run on the sides and bottoms of
usually considered subject to physical damage. framing members.

2. Protect NM and UF cable using RMC, IMC, EMT, 5. Secure NM and UF cable not more than 8 inches
or Schedule 80 RNC when the cable is subject to from boxes and terminations that do not
physical damage. Extend the protection at least have cable clamps. This includes most plastic
6 inches above the floor when the cable runs boxes. Secure NM and UF cable not more than
through the floor. 12 inches from boxes and terminations that have
cable clamps. This includes most metal boxes.
3. Protect NM and UF cable using nail guards or Measure the support distance from where the
other approved physical protection when the cable cable sheathing ends in the box, not from the
is installed: (a) through holes, notches, or grooves box itself.
that are closer than 1¼ inches to the edge of a
stud or joist; (b) in notches and grooves in places 6. Use NM cable only in dry locations that are
such as drywall, plaster, and under carpet, unless indoors and not within concrete or masonry that
the groove or notch is deeper than 1¼ inches; is exposed to the ground. Do not use NM cable
(c) through holes in metal framing (use grommets in conduit that is buried in the ground. Buried
or bushings); and (d) parallel to the edge of a stud, conduit is considered a wet location. You may use
joist, or furring strip when the cable is closer than UF cable in wet locations, including outdoors and
1¼ inches to the edge of the framing member. underground if it is not subject to damage.

VIOLATION! Do not install NM and UF

cable inside cabinets.

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 VIOLATION! Do not install NM and UF cable in exposed walls VIOLATION! Do not install NM cable outdoors. Outdoors
and ceilings. You may install NM and UF cable in exposed includes buried conduit. You may install UF cable outdoors if
basement ceilings and attics under certain conditions. it is protected from physical damage.

Support NM and UF cable at least every 41⁄2'. Cable on top of Secure NM and UF cable within 8" from where the cable
ceiling joists is considered supported. enters or leaves a plastic box. Measure from where the cable
sheathing ends in the box, not from the edge of the box.

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 Conduit & Tubing Installation Wiring Support Requirements
1. Apply the following installation requirements 1. Table 40 lists the on center support
to EMT, IMC, RMC, ENT, FMC, LFC, and RNC: requirements for wiring methods. Note
(a) limit the number of 90-degree bends between that some wiring methods have special
junction boxes to not more than four; (b) install requirements shown by the following
bushings where conduit or tubing enters a box, superscripts: (1) support is not required in
fitting, or enclosure, unless the device provides accessible ceilings, such as drop ceilings, if the
equivalent protection against damage to any wires distance between light fixtures is not more
that may be pulled into the device; (c) remove than 6 feet; (2) you may allow not more than
rough edges from the ends of all conduit and tubing 24 inches between the last support and a light
that may damage wires; (d) support EMT, IMC, fixture or other equipment that may need to
and RMC not more than every 10 feet and within be moved for service or replacement; (3) you
3 feet of junction boxes or terminations; (e) support may allow not more than 36 inches between
ENT not more than every 3 feet, unless the ENT is the last support and a light fixture or other
in an accessible ceiling, such as a drop ceiling, and equipment that may need to be moved for
if the distance between light fixtures is not more service or replacement; (4) support NM and UF
than 6 feet; and (f) support FMC and LFC not more cable not more than 8 inches from boxes and
than every 4½ feet and within 12 inches of junction terminations that do not have cable clamps.
boxes and terminations, unless the FMC and LFC is This includes most plastic boxes. Measure
in an accessible ceiling, such as a drop ceiling, and the support distance from where the cable
if the distance between light fixtures is not more sheathing ends in the box, not from the box
than 6 feet. itself; (5) support NM and UF cable not more
than 12 inches from boxes and terminations
2. You may allow not more than 36 inches between that have cable clamps. This includes most
the last support and a light fixture or other metal boxes. (6) support RNC not more than
equipment that may need to be moved for service 5 feet for conduit sizes between 1¼ and
or replacement. 2 inches.

TABLE 40: WIRING METHODS SUPPORT

AC MC EMT ENT FMC NM RNC SE SE

IMC LFC UF USE (BRANCH
RMC (SERVICE) CIRCUIT
OR INDOOR
FEEDER)

MAXIMUM 4.51' 61' 10' 31' 4.51' 4.5' 36' 2.5' 4.5'
SUPPORT
SPACING

MAXIMUM 121,2' 121,2' 36" 36" 121,3" 84‑125" 36" 12" 12"
SUPPORT
DISTANCE
TO BOX OR
TERMINATION
(INCHES)

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 Use wood or other substantial guards to protect NM and Use wood or other substantial guards to protect NM
UF cable installed perpendicular to rafters within the and UF cable installed on top of ceiling joists within the
protection area. protection area.

Wiring Protection in Attics 2. You need not protect electrical cables in accessible
1. Protect electrical cables in accessible attics by attics when the cables are installed: (a) running
using substantial guard strips that are at least as parallel to the edge of the framing and at least
tall as the electrical cables when: (a) access to 1¼ inches from the edge of the framing or (b) in
holes that are at least 1¼ inches from the edge of
the attic is by permanent stairs or ladders (such
the framing.
as a pull-down attic ladder), and the cables are
within 7 feet vertically from the top of attic floor
joists or truss bottom chords, or the cables run
across the face (shortest dimension) of rafters,
studs, or truss webs or chords, or (b) access to
the attic is by scuttle hole or similar opening
and the cables described in (a) are within 6 feet
horizontally from the nearest point of the attic
access opening.

7'

Scuttle opening:
Area within 6'
of opening

Protect exposed NM and UF cable installed in accessible attics and within the shaded protection area.

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 ground-fault circuit protection, tripping the circuit
breaker if there is a short circuit or power surge. These
are easy to identify by reset and test buttons.

General Receptacle
Installation Requirements
1. Use only grounding type (3-slot) when installing
Electrical Receptacle new receptacles in 15-amp and 20-amp branch
circuits. You may replace existing 2-slot
Installation receptacles with a new 2-slot receptacle.

2. Mount receptacles in boxes that are recessed from

the wall by seating the receptacle’s extension ears

W hether you call them outlets, plug-ins, or

receptacles, these important devices represent
the point where the rubber meets the road in your
at the top and bottom of the receptacle against the
wall surface.

home wiring system. From the basic 15-amp, 120-volt 3. Mount receptacles in boxes that are flush with the
duplex receptacle to the burly 50-amp, 240-volt wall by seating the receptacle’s mounting yoke or
appliance receptacle, the many outlets in your home do strap against the box.
pretty much the same thing: transmit power to a load.
Learning the essential differences between 4. Do not allow the receptacle to move when a plug
receptacles does not take long. Amperage is the main is inserted. This can, over time, cause wires to
variable, as each receptacle must match the amperage loosen, allow arcing, and cause a fire.
and voltage of the circuit in which it is installed.
A 15-amp circuit should be wired with 15-amp 5. Install receptacle faceplates so that the plate
receptacles; a 20-amp circuit needs 20-amp receptacles completely covers the receptacle and so that the
(identified by the horizontal slot that Ts into each tall faceplate is flush against the wall. No gaps should
polarized slot). A 20-amp multi-receptacle circuit may exist between the receptacle and the faceplate or
use either 15- or 20-amp receptacles. Receptacles for between the faceplate and the wall.
240-volt service have unique slot configurations so
you can’t accidentally plug in an appliance that’s not 6. Install receptacles so that the face of the
rated for the amperage in the circuit. Some receptacles receptacle is either flush with or projects out
can be wired using the push-in wire holes, but this is from a nonmetallic faceplate.
not recommended. Some receptacles provide built-in,
7. Install receptacles so that the face of the receptacle
Stamp of approval Push-in Wire projects out from a metallic faceplate at least
Long Mounting fitting ratings (≥) 1⁄64 inch.
(neutral) strap
slot 8. Install receptacles so that the wiring terminals are
Short (hot) slot Wire not exposed to physical contact.
Silver Grounding type
(neutral) hole
screw
Connecting
Tamper-Resistant Receptacles
terminals
tab 1. Install tamper-resistant receptacles in 120-volt, 15-
and 20-amp general purpose branch circuits. These
receptacles usually have an opening that moves to
Brass (hot) allow access to the receptacle. This requirement
screw includes interior and exterior receptacles unless
terminals an exception applies. This requirement includes
Voltage
rating
replacement of existing three-slot receptacles.
Amperage Green
rating (grounding) 2. You do not need to install tamper-resistant
screw terminal receptacles if the receptacle: (a) is located more
FRONT BACK than 66 inches above the floor, (b) is part of a light

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 fixture or appliance, or (c) is a single or duplex
2' 4'
dedicated appliance receptacle into which one or
two not easily movable appliances will be plugged.
1'
Non-Grounding Type Receptacles 4'
1. You may replace a non-grounding type receptacle 3'
(2-slot) with another non-grounding type receptacle. Refrigerator
1'
2. You may replace a non-grounding type receptacle
3'
(2-slot) with a grounding type receptacle (3-slot) Island
if: (a) the replacement receptacle is a GFCI
2'
receptacle and (b) the cover plate is labeled “No
Equipment Ground.”
4'
3. You may replace a non-grounding type receptacle
(2-slot) with a grounding type receptacle (3-slot) if: 1' 4'

(a) the replacement receptacle is supplied by a GFCI

Illo 302
protected circuit and (b) the cover plate is labeled
2' 2.5'
2'
CG_Codes ”
“GFCI Protected and No Equipment Ground.
06-15-2009 Example of countertop receptacle spacing in a typical kitchen.
4. Use 1, 2, and 3 above only if no equipment grounding
wire is available in the receptacle box. You must use recreation rooms, dining rooms, breakfast rooms,
a grounding type receptacle, and you must use the libraries, and similar living areas. Kitchens, bathrooms,
equipment grounding wire if it is available. hallways, garages, laundry rooms, and exterior
receptacles have their own installation requirements.
5. You may run an equipment grounding wire to the
nearest box containing an equipment grounding 2. Install the required interior receptacles so that any
wire if all hot, neutral, and grounding wires point along a wall is not more than 6 feet from a
originate at the same panelboard. receptacle. When measuring a wall, do not include
operable doors, fireplaces, closet interiors, or
6. Do not connect the neutral wire to the receptacle similar openings, or fixed cabinets that do not have
grounding lug. These “bootleg grounds” are a countertops or similar work surfaces. A wall begins
dangerous code violation. at the edge of an opening and continues around
any corners to the next opening. Walls include fixed
Receptacle Installation in Rooms (not sliding) panels in doors that are at least 2 feet
1. Apply the following provisions to receptacles in living wide. Walls include partial height walls that serve
rooms, family rooms, bedrooms, dens, sunrooms, functions, such as room dividers, and walls that form
breakfast bars and similar bar-type counters. Walls
6' 3' sliding door 3' fixed door include guards and railings at balconies, raised floors,
and other areas where furniture could be placed.
6'

2' 6' 3. Locate floor receptacles intended to serve as

1' 6' required interior receptacles not more than
18 inches from the wall. You may install interior
floor receptacles at any safe place, but you may
count only receptacles not more than 18 inches
6' 1' from the wall among the required receptacles.
5' 6'
1' 6' 4. Install receptacles not more than 66 inches above
Illo 299
CG_Codes the finished floor. You may install receptacles at
Example of receptacle spacing requirements in a typical
06-15-2009
room. Measure receptacle spacing distance along the wall any height, but you may count only receptacles
line. Install receptacles along partial height walls and along not more than 66 inches above the finished floor
balcony guards in lofts and similar areas. among the required receptacles.
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 VIOLATION! Running a pigtail from the You must install receptacles behind a You must install receptacles behind
neutral terminal to the grounding screw short run of countertop if it is at least a sink or cooking appliance if the
on a receptacle is called a bootleg 12" wide along a straight wall. countertop behind the sink or cooking
ground. It is usually done to make appliance is at least 18" deep in a
an ungrounded circuit appear to be corner cabinet.
grounded. It is very dangerous.

Kitchen Countertop Receptacle Installation dishwasher receptacle. This does not apply to

1. Install a GFCI protected receptacle at every a hard-wired dishwasher outlet.
kitchen countertop that is at least 12 inches wide.
Kitchen Island & Peninsula Receptacles
2. Install kitchen countertop receptacles so that all without a Sink or Cooking Appliance
points along the countertop wall are not more than 1. Install at least one GFCI protected receptacle at every
2 feet from a receptacle. A wall begins at the edge of kitchen island and peninsula that measures at least
an opening or appliance, and continues around any 24 inches by at least 12 inches. Measure a peninsula
corners, and ends at the next opening or appliance. from the interior connecting edge of the countertop.
Include windows when measuring the wall unless
the window is above a sink or cooking appliance. 2. Install kitchen countertop receptacles along
any wall space above an island or peninsula
3. Install receptacles behind a sink or cooking countertop. Such wall space occurs when an island
appliance located along a straight wall if the or peninsula is installed at a partial height wall.
countertop behind the sink or cooking appliance
is at least 12 inches wide. Install receptacles 3. You may install receptacles not more than
behind a sink or cooking appliance located along 12 inches below an island or peninsula countertop
a wall corner if the countertop behind the sink or if the countertop is flat and there is no wall space
cooking appliance is at least 18 inches deep. above the countertop or if the countertop is
designed for access by the physically impaired.
4. Install receptacles not more than 20 inches above
Do not install the required kitchen island or
the countertop. You may install receptacles at any
peninsula receptacle below a breakfast bar or
height, but you may include only receptacles not
other countertop that extends more than 6 inches
more than 20 inches above the countertop among
beyond the supporting base.
the required kitchen countertop receptacles.

5. Do not include among the required kitchen Kitchen Island & Peninsula Receptacles
countertop receptacles: (a) receptacles located in with a Sink or Cooking Appliance
appliance garages, (b) receptacles dedicated for 1. Install at least one GFCI protected receptacle not
a fixed-in-place appliance, or (c) receptacles not more than 24 inches from each side of a sink or
readily accessible for use by small appliances. cooking appliance installed in a kitchen island
or peninsula.
6. Do not install receptacles face up on work surfaces
unless the receptacle is listed for this type 2. Install receptacles behind a sink or cooking
of installation. appliance if the countertop behind the sink or
cooking appliance is at least 12 inches wide or
7. Locate the receptacle for the dishwasher in a at least 18 inches deep if the sink or cooking
space adjacent to the dishwasher, if installing a appliance is installed in a corner.

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 3. Install kitchen countertop receptacles along 2. Install at least one GFCI protected, 15- or 20-amp,
any wall space above an island or peninsula 120-volt receptacle within the perimeter of any
countertop. Such wall space occurs when an island balcony, deck, or porch that: (a) is accessible from
or peninsula is installed at a partial height wall. inside the home and (b) has a usable area of at
least 20 square feet. Locate the receptacle not more
4. You many install receptacles not more than than 78 inches above the balcony, deck, or porch.
12 inches below an island or peninsula countertop
if the countertop is flat and there is no wall space Basement Receptacles
or cabinet above the countertop. 1. Install at least one GFCI protected, 15- or 20-amp,
120-volt receptacle in an unfinished basement.
5. Do not install receptacles face up on countertops Install at least one GFCI protected receptacle
or similar work surfaces. in the unfinished part of a basement that is
partially finished.
Bathroom Sink Receptacles
1. Install at least one GFCI protected receptacle 2. You are not required to provide GFCI protection
not more than 36 inches from the outside edge of to a receptacle that is dedicated to serving a fire or
each sink basin in a bathroom. You may install the security alarm system.
receptacle along a wall adjacent to the sink.
Garage & Accessory Building Receptacles
2. Do not install receptacles face up on work surfaces. 1. Install one GFCI protected, 15- or 20-amp
receptacle for each motor vehicle parking space in
Laundry Receptacles an attached garage and in a detached garage that
1. Install at least one 20-amp, 120-volt receptacle in is supplied with electricity. Locate the receptacle
the laundry area. This required receptacle usually not more than 66 inches above the floor. You are
serves the clothes washing machine. The required not required to supply electricity to detached
laundry receptacle is in addition to any required garages and accessory buildings, but if you do
garage or basement receptacle if the laundry is in you must install a receptacle. Accessory buildings
the garage or basement. include work sheds, storage sheds, tack sheds,
barns, and similar buildings.
2. Provide GFCI protection for all 15- and 20-amp,
120-volt receptacles in the laundry area. This 2. You may not serve any other outlets from the
includes any dedicated receptacle for the clothes circuit serving garage receptacles except for readily
washing machine. accessible receptacles located outside the house.
This means that garage lights and exterior lights
Exterior Receptacles and receptacles must be served by one or more
1. Install at least one GFCI protected, 15- or 20-amp, separate circuits.
120-volt receptacle on the front and back exterior
wall of every home. Locate the receptacle so that it 3. Do not connect other outlets to a receptacle circuit
is accessible from grade level and is not more than that is intended for charging an electric vehicle.
78 inches above finished grade level. These receptacle circuits are often 240 volts.

A GFCI protected An exterior‑rated

receptacle must receptacle should
be installed be installed
within 36" of on both the
each bathroom front and back
sink basin. exterior walls of
your house.

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 Ground-Fault (GFCI) & Arc-Fault (AFCI) Protection
Ground-Fault Location Requirements they are located in the bathroom and includes
1. Kitchen receptacles. Install ground-fault circuit- receptacles located at countertops, inside cabinets,
interrupter (GFCI) protection on all 120-volt and along bathroom walls. This also applies to
receptacles that serve kitchen countertops. This bathtubs and shower stalls that are not located in
does not include receptacles under the kitchen a bathroom. Install GFCI protection on all circuits
sink, receptacles located on kitchen walls that do serving electrically heated floors in bathrooms,
not serve the countertop, and receptacles that kitchens, and around whirlpool tubs, spas, and
are not within 6 feet of a sink. hot tubs.

2. Kitchen. Install GFCI protection on the outlets 4. Garage and accessory building receptacles. Install
that supply dishwashing machines. This includes GFCI protection on all 120-volt receptacles located
receptacles and hard-wired connections. in garages and grade-level areas of unfinished
accessory buildings.
3. Bathroom receptacles. Install GFCI protection
on all 120-volt receptacles located in bathrooms. 5. Exterior receptacles. Install GFCI protection on
This applies to all receptacles regardless of where all 120-volt receptacles located outdoors. This

Ground‑fault receptacles and circuit breakers detect unwanted A combination ARC‑fault circuit breaker detects sparking
current running between an energized wire and a grounded (arcing) faults along damaged energized wires and detects
neutral wire. these faults between wires. A branch ARC-fault circuit breaker
only detects arcing faults between wires.

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 does not apply to receptacles that are dedicated branch circuit by installing a combination-type
for deicing equipment and are located under AFCI circuit breaker in the electrical panel where
the eaves. This does apply to holiday lighting the branch circuit originates.
receptacles located under the eaves.
3. You may provide AFCI protection to a branch
6. Basement receptacles. Install GFCI protection circuit using several different combinations
on all 120-volt receptacles located in unfinished of branch-circuit type AFCI circuit breakers and
basements. An unfinished basement is not branch-circuit type AFCI receptacles. Refer to
intended as habitable space and is limited to general codes or your local building inspector for
storage and work space. details about these alternate methods.

7. Crawl space outlets. Install GFCI protection on all 4. Provide AFCI for branch circuits that are
120-volt outlets and lights located in crawl spaces. modified, replaced, or extended. You may use
Receptacles in crawl spaces are not required unless either of the following methods: (a) install
equipment requiring service is located there. a combination-type AFCI circuit breaker in
the electrical panel where the branch circuit
8. Sink receptacles. Install GFCI protection on all originates or (b) install a branch-circuit type AFCI
120-volt receptacles that are located within 6 feet receptacle at the first receptacle in the existing
of the top inside edge of a sink. This includes wall, branch circuit.
floor, and countertop receptacles.
5. Install AFCI circuit breakers and receptacles so
9. Boathouse receptacles. Install GFCI protection that they are readily accessible.
on all 120-volt receptacles located in boathouses.
Install GFCI protection on all 120-volt and 240-volt
receptacles that serve boat hoists.

10. Spas, tubs, and other circuits requiring ground-

fault protection. Install GFCI protection on all
circuits serving spa tubs, whirlpool tubs, hot tubs,
and similar equipment. Refer to the general codes
for more information about receptacles serving
these components.

11. Install GFCI circuit breakers and receptacles so

that they are readily accessible.

Arc-Fault Location Requirements

1. Install a combination type or an outlet (receptacle)
type arc-fault circuit-interrupter (AFCI) on all
15- and 20-amp, 120-volt branch circuits serving
sleeping, family, dining, living, sun, and recreation
rooms, kitchens, laundry areas, and parlors,
libraries, dens, hallways, closets, and similar rooms
and areas. This means that 15- and 20-amp, 120-
volt branch circuits serving most interior spaces
in a home are required to have AFCI protection.
Note that garages, basements, utility and
mechanical rooms, and exterior branch circuits
are not included in this list, although local building
officials may include these areas by interpretation.
Receptacles for whirlpool tubs must be GFCI protected and
2. You may provide AFCI protection for the entire readily accessible

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 Junction Boxes, Device
Boxes & Enclosures

A ll electrical boxes are available in different depths.

A box must be deep enough so a switch or
receptacle can be removed or installed easily without
crimping and damaging the circuit wires. Replace an
undersized box with a larger box using Table 42 the
Electrical Box Fill Chart (see page 206) as a guide.
The NEC also says that all electrical boxes must
remain accessible. Never cover an electrical box
with drywall, paneling, or wall coverings. Do not support heavy light fixtures using only the light fixture
electrical box. The eye hook supporting this chandelier is
driven into the same ceiling joist to which the electrical box
Non-Metallic Box Installation is mounted.
1. Use non-metallic boxes with NM type cable or with
non-metallic conduit or tubing. You may use non-
metallic boxes with metallic conduit or tubing if you 3. Secure NM cable, conduit, and tubing to each
maintain the electrical continuity of the metallic box. You may secure NM cable with cable clamps
conduit or tubing by installing a bonding jumper inside the box or with compression tabs provided
through the box. In many situations it is easier to where the cable enters the box. You do not need
use a metallic box with metallic conduit or tubing. to secure NM cable to a standard single-gang box
(2¼ by 4 inches) mounted in a wall or ceiling if
2. Extend NM cable sheathing at least ¼ inch into a you fasten the cable not more than 8 inches from
non-metallic box knockout opening. the box and if the sheathing enters the box at least
¼ inch. Measure the 8 inches along the length of
the sheathing, not from the outside of the box.

Light Fixture Box Installation

1. Use boxes designed for mounting light fixtures if
a light fixture is to be mounted to the box. These
boxes are usually 4-inch round or octagonal.

2. You may use other boxes to mount light fixtures on

walls if the fixture weighs less than 6 pounds and
is secured to the box using at least #6 screws.

3. Support light fixtures weighing at least 50 pounds

independently from the light fixture box unless
the box is labeled as being designed to support
Box shape is related to function, as electrical fixtures are
a heavier light fixture. You may use the light
created to fit on boxes of a particular shape. Octagonal and
round boxes generally are designed for ceiling mounting, fixture box to support light fixtures weighing less
while square and rectangular boxes are sized for single-pole, than 50 pounds. Note that ceiling fans are not
duplex, and other standard switch and receptacle sizes. light fixtures.

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 Box Contents Limitations
1. Limit the number of wires, devices (such as
switches and receptacles), and fittings in a box.
This limitation is primarily based on the heat
generated by the wires and devices in the box. The
actual size of the box relative to its contents is a
secondary consideration.

2. Use the cubic inch volume printed on the box or

provided in the box manufacturer’s instructions to
determine box volume. Do not attempt to measure Boxes must be installed so the front edges are flush with the
the box volume. Do not estimate box volume finished wall surface and the gap between the box and the wall
from the volume of similar size boxes. You will covering is not more than 1⁄8".
probably not get the same volume as provided by
the manufacturer.
TABLE 41: WIRE VOLUME UNIT
3. Use Table 41 to determine the volume units
WIRE SIZE (AWG) WIRE VOLUME
required by wires, devices, and fittings in a box.
14 2.00 in.3
12 2.25 in.3
Box Installation Tolerances
10 2.50 in.3
1. Install boxes in non-combustible material, such as
masonry, drywall, plaster, or tile, so that the front 8 3.00 in.3
edge is set back not more than ¼ inch from the 6 5.00 in.3
finished surface.

2. Install boxes in walls and ceilings made of wood Mechanically secure the extension device to
or other combustible material so that the box’s the box.
front edge is flush with the finished surface or
projects from the finished surface. You may use 3. Cut openings for boxes in drywall and plaster so
an extension ring, plaster ring, or similar device that the opening is not more than ⅛ inch from the
to extend the box to the finished wall surface. perimeter of the box.

VOLUME UNITS
Calculate the volume units required by wires, devices, and fittings based on the following definitions:

Volume units for current‑carrying wires. Allow one volume unit for each individual hot (ungrounded) and neutral
(grounded) wire in the box. Use Table 41 to determine the volume units of common wire sizes. Example: two pieces of
#14/2 NM are in a box. Each piece of this cable contains one hot (ungrounded) and one neutral (grounded) wire and one
grounding wire. From Table 41, each #14 wire uses 2.00 cu. in. in the box. The total volume units required by the hot
(ungrounded) and neutral (grounded) wires is 8 cu. in.

Volume units for devices. Allow two volume units for each device (switch or receptacle) in the box. Base the volume units
on the largest hot (ungrounded) or neutral (grounded) wire in the box. Example: NM cable size #14 and #12 are in a box.
From Table 41, #14 wire uses 2.00 cu. in. and #12 wire uses 2.25 cu. in. Allow 4.5 cu. in. volume units (2 × 2.25 cu. in.)
for each switch or receptacle in the box based on the volume of the larger #12 NM cable.

Volume units for grounding wires. Allow one volume unit for all grounding wires in the box. Base the volume unit on the
largest hot (ungrounded) or neutral (grounded) wire in the box.

Volume units for clamps. Allow one volume unit for all internal cable clamps in the box, if any. Base the volume unit on the
largest hot (ungrounded) or neutral (grounded) wire in the box.

Volume units for fittings. Allow one volume unit for all fittings in the box, if any. Base the volume unit on the largest hot
(ungrounded) or neutral (grounded) wire in the box.

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 TABLE 42: ELECTRICAL BOX FILL CHART Box Support in Walls, Ceilings & Floors
1. Provide support for boxes that rigidly and securely
fasten them in place. You may use nails or screws
BOX SIZE & SHAPE MAXIMUM NUMBER
(If volume not labeled OF VOLUME UNITS PERMITTED
to support these boxes.
by manufacturer) (SEE NOTES BELOW)
2. Protect screws inside boxes so that the threads
14 12 10 8 will not damage the wires.
AWG AWG AWG AWG
3. Wood braces used to support boxes must be at
JUNCTION BOXES
least 1 × 2 inches.
4 × 11⁄4" R or O 6 5 5 4
4. Use “cut-in” or “old work” retrofit boxes only
4 × 11⁄2" R or O 7 6 6 5
if they have approved clamps or anchors that
4 × 21⁄8" R or O 10 9 8 7 are identified for the location where they
are installed.
4 × 11⁄4" S 9 8 7 6

4 × 11⁄2" S 10 9 8 7 Damp Locations

4 × 21⁄8" S 15 13 12 10 1. Install a receptacle box cover that is weatherproof
when the cover is closed and a plug is not inserted
411⁄16 × 11⁄4" S 12 11 10 8
into a receptacle located in a damp location. This
411⁄16 × 11⁄2" S 14 13 11 9 applies to 15-amp and 20-amp receptacles. A damp
area is protected from direct contact with water.
411⁄16 × 21⁄8" S 21 18 16 14
Refer to the definition of damp location. You may
DEVICE BOXES use a receptacle cover suitable for wet locations in
3 × 2 × 11⁄2" 3 3 3 2
a damp location (see page 170).

3 × 2 × 2" 5 4 4 3 2. Install a watertight seal between a flush-mounted

3 × 2 × 2 ⁄4"
1
5 4 4 3 receptacle and its faceplate. This will require a
gasket or sealant between the finished surface
3 × 2 × 21⁄2" 6 5 5 4
(such as stucco, brick, or siding) and the faceplate.
3 × 2 × 23⁄4" 7 6 6 4

3 × 2 × 31⁄2" 9 8 7 6
Wet Locations
1. Install a receptacle box cover that is weatherproof
4 × 21⁄8 × 11⁄2" 5 4 4 3 when the cover is closed on any receptacle located
4 × 21⁄8 × 17⁄8" 6 5 5 4 in a wet location. This applies to 15-amp and
20-amp receptacles in any indoor or outdoor wet
4 × 21⁄8 × 21⁄8" 7 6 5 4 location. This applies regardless of whether or not
Notes: a plug is inserted into the receptacle. Refer to the
• R = Round; O = Octagonal; S = Square definition of wet location (see page 170).
or rectangular
• Each hot or neutral wire entering the box is counted
2. Install a watertight seal between a flush-mounted
as one volume unit.
• Grounding wires are counted as one volume unit in receptacle and its faceplate. This will require a
total—do not count each one individually. gasket or sealant between the finished surface
• Raceway fittings and external cable clamps do not (such as stucco, brick, or siding) and the faceplate.
count. Internal cable connectors and straps count as
one volume unit.
• Devices (switches and receptacles mainly) each Box Support by Raceways
count as two volume units. 1. Do not support any junction or device boxes using
• When calculating total volume units, any non-wire only conduit or tubing if the box volume is larger
components should be assigned the gauge of the than 100 cubic inches.
largest wire in the box.
• For wire gauges not shown here, contact your local
electrical inspections office. 2. Support boxes that do not contain switches,
receptacles, or light fixtures by using at least two

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 lengths of conduit threaded wrench-tight into the
box. Secure the conduit not more than 3 feet from
the box if the conduit enters from different sides
of the box. Secure the conduit not more than 18
inches from the box if the conduit enters from
the same side of the box. Example: if the conduit
enters the box from the top and bottom of the box,
then secure the conduit not more than 3 feet from
the box. Example: if the conduit enters the box
from only the top or only from the bottom, then
secure the conduit not more than 18 inches from
the box.

3. Support boxes that contain switches or receptacles

or light fixtures by using at least two lengths
of conduit threaded wrench-tight into the box.
Secure the conduit not more than 18 inches from
the box.

4. You may use RMC or IMC metal conduit to

support light fixtures under certain conditions. Secure each cable to a cabinet using an approved
Refer to the IRC for the exceptions. cable clamp.

Panel boxes, including the main service panel and subpanel

boxes, also require the use of properly sized cable clamps
wherever cables enter or exit the box.

Cables Secured to a Cabinet

1. Secure each individual cable to panelboard
cabinets and to similar enclosures, unless the
exception applies.

2. You may run NM cable into the top of a surface-

mounted cabinet through an accessible rigid
Conduit should not be used as the sole means to support raceway under certain conditions. Refer to IRC
a box. Chapter 39 for the conditions.

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 Electrical Box Types
Metal boxes should be used for exposed indoor wiring,
33½"-deep
1
⁄2"‑deep plastic
plasticboxes
boxeswith
withpreattached
preattachedmounting
mountingnails
nailsare
areused
used Metal boxes should be used for exposed installations in an
such as conduit installations in an unfinished basement.
for
forany anywiring
wiringproject
projectprotected
protectedbybyfinished
finishedwalls.
walls.Common
Commonstyles
styles unfinished basement. Metal boxes also may be used for
Metal boxes also can be used for wiring that will be
include
include
single‑gang
single-gang
(A),(A),
double‑gang
double-gang(B),(B),
andand
triple‑gang
triple-gang
(C).(C). wiring that will be covered by finished walls.
covered by finished walls.
Double‑gang
Double-gangand andtriple‑gang
triple-gangboxes
boxesrequire
requireinternal
internalcable
cableclamps.
clamps.

Plastic
Plastic
retrofit
retrofit
light
light
fixture
fixture
boxboxes
lets
letyou
youinstall
installaanewnewfixture
fixtureininan
an
existingexisting
wall or wall
ceiling.
or ceiling.

Plastic
Plasticlight
lightfixture
fixtureboxes
boxeswith
withbrace
brace
bars
barslet
letyou
youposition
positionaafixture
fixturebetween
between
framing members.
framing members.

MetalMetal
light
light
fixture
fixture
boxesboxes
withwith
heavy‑
heavy-
dutyduty
brace
brace bars
bars
areare
recommended
recommendedwhen when
installing
installingheavy
heavylight
light
fixtures
fixturesororhanging
hanginga a
GFCI
GFCI damp
damp ceilingceiling
fan. fan.
area
area plates
plates

Cast aluminum boxes PVC plastic boxes are

Duplex
Duplex damp
damp
are required for outdoor used with PVC conduit
area
area plates
plates
electrical fixtures in outdoor wiring
connected with metal and exposed indoor
conduit. Sealed seams wiring. PVC cover
and threaded openings plates are available to
keep moisture out. A fit switches, standard
variety of cover plates duplex receptacles,
are available. and GFCI receptacles.

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 Box Installation Specifications
D

High‑quality non‑metallic boxes are rigid and don’t contort Boxes larger than 2 × 4" and all retrofit boxes must have either
easily. A variety of adapter plates are available, including compression tabs or internal cable clamps. After installing
single-gang (A), double-gang (B), light fixture (C), and cables in the box, tighten cable clamps over the cables
junction box cover plate (D). Adapter plates come in several so they are gripped firmly, but not so tightly that the cable
thicknesses to match different wall constructions. sheathing is crushed.

Grounding
Bonding screw
screw

Pigtail

A B C

Metal boxes must be bonded to the circuit grounding system. Cables entering a metal box must be clamped. A variety of
Connect the circuit grounding wires to the box with a pigtail clamps are available, including plastic clamps (A, C) and
wire and wire connector (as shown) or with a grounding clip. threaded metal clamps (B).

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 209

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 Circuit Breaker Panels
The circuit breaker panel is the electrical distribution always shut off the main circuit breaker and test
center for your home. It divides the current into for power before touching any parts inside the
branch circuits that run throughout the house. Each panel. Never touch the service wire lugs. If unsure
branch circuit is protected by a circuit breaker or of your own skills, hire an electrician to make the
fuse that protects the wires from dangerous current final circuit connections. (If you have an older
overloads. When installing new circuits, the last electrical service with fuses instead of circuit
step is to connect the wires to new circuit breakers breakers, always have an electrician make these
at the panel. Follow basic safety procedures and final hookups.)

120-volt
120‑volt Grounding conductor
branch leads to metal grounding
circuits rods driven into the
earth or to other
grounding electrodes.
Two hot service wires
provide 120/240 volts
Main circuit breaker panel to the main circuit
distributes the current breaker. These wires are
entering always HOT.
the home into
branch circuits. The green screw is the
bonding connection to
the cabinet. It should be
Neutral service wire removed in a subpanel.
carries current back to the
source after it has passed
Grounding bus bar has
through the home.
terminals for linking
grounding wires to
the main grounding
conductor. It is bonded to
Main circuit breaker the neutral bus bar.
protects the panelboard
from overloads and
Two hot bus bars run
disconnects current to all
through the center of the
circuits in
panel, supplying current
the panel.
to the circuit breakers.
Each carries 120 volts.

Neutral bus bar has

setscrew terminals for
linking all neutral circuit Subpanel feeder
wires to the neutral breaker is a double-pole
service wire. breaker. It is wired
in the same way as a
120/240-volt circuit.
Double-pole breaker wired
for a 120/240 circuit
transfers current from the
two hot bus bars to red
and black hot wires in a
three-wire cable.

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 If a circuit breaker panel does not have enough open slots for
new full-size circuit breakers, you may be able to install ½-height SAFETY WARNING
(slimline) circuit breakers. Otherwise, you will need to install Never touch any parts inside a circuit
a subpanel. breaker panel until you have checked
Before installing any new wiring, evaluate your electrical service for power. Circuit breaker panels differ
to make sure it provides enough current to support both the existing in appearance, depending on the
manufacturer. Never begin work in a
wiring and any new circuits. If your service does not provide enough
circuit breaker panel until you understand
current, you will need to upgrade to a higher amp rating panel with its layout and can identify the parts.
enough extra breaker slots for the new circuits you want to install.

Grounding bus bar has

Circuit breaker subpanel can be installed Neutral bus bar has setscrew terminals
when the main circuit breaker panel setscrew terminals for connecting circuit
does not have enough space to hold for linking neutral grounding wires. In a
circuit breakers for new circuits you want circuit wires to the circuit breaker subpanel,
to install. neutral feed wire. Single-pole circuit breaker the grounding bus bar is
transfers 120 volts not bonded to the neutral
from one hot bus bar to bus bar.
the black hot wire in a
Two hot two-wire cable.
feeder wires
supply
120 volts 120-volt
each to branch circuit
the two hot
bus bars.

Neutral
feeder wire
connects the
neutral bus
bar in the
120-volt isolated
subpanel to
ground circuit
the neutral
bus bar in the
main service
panel.

240-volt
branch circuit

Feeder cable brings

current from the Two hot bus bars pass Double-pole breaker wired for 240 volts
main circuit breaker through the center of the transfers current from both hot bus bars to
panel. A 30-amp, service panel, supplying white and black hot wires in a two-wire cable.
240-volt subpanel power to the individual This 240-volt circuit has no neutral wire
requires a 10/3 feeder circuit breakers. Each carries connection; the white wire is tagged with
cable controlled by a 120 volts. black tape to identify it as a hot wire.
30-amp double-pole
circuit breaker.

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 211

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 Switch Installation
Switch Current Load Limitations
1. Do not use a switch in a circuit if the current load
on the circuit exceeds the current rating of the Cover exposed electrical connections in timer boxes using the
manufacturer-supplied cover.
switch. Example: a 15-amp snap switch may be
overloaded if it switches ten 200-watt, 120-volt
flood lights. Beware of overloads if the switch the receptacle or by switching a permanently
controls multiple high wattage flood lights or other connected cord. Example: a switch controls half
high current draw equipment. of a receptacle in a bedroom. If the branch circuit
is 20 amps, the switch should be rated at 20 amps
2. Use switches that are rated at least 80 percent of a or more.
motor’s full load current rating.
4. Run the grounded (neutral) wire of a general
3. Install switches that have at least the same current purpose branch circuit to the switch box when
rating as the circuit breaker or fuse protecting the the switch controls lighting loads. Refer to the
branch circuit when the switch controls plug-and- IRC for exceptions that may occur in some
cord connected equipment either by switching unusual conditions.

Three‑way switches and four‑way

Push-in fittings
switches are required for circuits with
fixtures controlled by multiple switches.
A four-way switch is seen here. Note
Grounding screw that ON and OFF are not indicated on
the toggle because these settings can
change based on which switch was
Wire
used last.
compatibilty
Grounding
ratings
lug screw

Screw terminals Wire

strip
gauge

Amperage &
voltage ratings
Wire release
Underwriters
opening
Laboratories
for push-in
(UL) approved
fittings
Mounting screw

Mounting strap
FRONT BACK

A typical 15‑amp single pole switch seen front and back.

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 wire to the switch. Connect switches to the
equipment grounding wire when using non-
Grounding Neutral wires metallic boxes.
wires

2. You may replace an existing ungrounded switch

with another ungrounded switch if the wiring
method has no equipment grounding wire. Protect
these ungrounded switches that are located not
more than 8 feet vertically or 5 feet horizontally
from the ground or from grounded metal objects
by: (a) installing a non-combustible and non-
conductive faceplate using nonmetallic screws or
(b) using a switch with a non-metallic strap or yoke
or (c) installing GFCI protection on the circuit.

Connect the grounding wire to the switch grounding terminal Switches in Wet Locations
when mounting the switch in a plastic box. 1. Enclose switches and circuit breakers installed
in wet locations in a weatherproof cabinet
Switch Orientation or enclosure.
1. Install single-throw switches so that ON is in the
up position when the device is installed vertically. 2. Do not locate switches in shower or tub spaces
You may install single-throw switches horizontally. unless the switch is part of a listed tub or
shower assembly.
2. Use switches that clearly indicate whether the
switch is in the ON or OFF position. This does not Switch Mounting in Boxes
apply to three-way and four-way switches. This 1. Mount switches in boxes that are recessed from
requirement is frequently waived when rocker type the wall by seating the switch’s extension ears
switches are used. at the top and bottom of the switch against the
wall surface.
Timer Switches
1. Use timer switches with energized parts that are 2. Mount switches in boxes that are flush with the
enclosed in the switch’s case or enclose the timer wall by seating the switch’s mounting yoke or strap
switch in a cabinet or box. against the box.

2. Install a barrier to guard against contact with 3. Do not allow the switch body to move when the
energized parts. switch is operated. This can, over time, cause wires
to loosen, potentially causing arcing and a fire.
Switch Height
1. Locate switches not more than 79 inches above Switch Faceplate Installation
the finished floor or finished grade. Measure to the 1. Install switch faceplates so that the plate
center of the handle when in the up position. completely covers the switch and so that the
faceplate is flush against the wall. No gaps should
2. Locate switches in readily accessible places. exist between the switch handle and the faceplate
or between the faceplate and the wall.
Grounding of Switches,
Boxes & Faceplates
1. Ground metal boxes containing switches, the SWITCH ONLY HOT WIRES
switches themselves (including dimmers and
Switch only the hot (ungrounded) wire unless the switch
similar devices), and metal faceplates covering
simultaneously disconnects all wires in the circuit.
switches. Ground the switch by mounting the Maintain required wire color-coding throughout three-
switch to a grounded metal box using metal way and four-way circuits.
screws or by connecting an equipment grounding

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 Lights Required in Attics,
Crawlspaces & Basements
1. Install at least one light outlet in attics,
crawlspaces, utility rooms, and basements if the
area is used for storage or if it contains equipment
that requires service. Locate the light outlet near
any equipment that requires service.
Light Fixture Installation 2. Locate a switch for the light at the usual point
of entry into the area. You may use a pull-chain-
controlled light if the light is located at the usual
Lights Required in Habitable Rooms point of entry into the area. This means that if the
1. Install at least one switch-controlled light in light is not at the entrance to the area, the light
every habitable room, kitchen, and bathroom. must be switched at the entrance.
This light may be a switched (half-hot) receptacle
in habitable rooms other than kitchens and Light Fixture Support
bathrooms. In kitchens and bathrooms, the outlet 1. You may use a securely attached box to support
must be a switched wall or ceiling lighting outlet. light fixtures weighing less than 50 pounds. Note
You may use lights controlled by occupancy that ceiling fans are not considered light fixtures.
sensors if the sensors have a manual override that
allows switch control of the light. 2. Do not use the screw shell of a light fixture to
support anything that weighs more than 6 pounds
Lights Required in Other or is more than 16 inches in any dimension.
Interior Spaces
1. Install at least one wall switch–controlled wall or Recessed Lights
1. Use recessed lights that are labeled as being
ceiling light in every hallway, stairway, attached
thermally protected. Thermal protection shuts off
garage, and detached garage if the detached
power to the light at high temperatures. Thermal
garage is provided with electricity.
protection is not required if the recessed light is
made, labeled, and installed so that it functions as
2. Install at least one wall switch to control stairway
if it were thermally protected.
lights if the stairs have at least (≥) 6 risers. Install
a switch at: (a) each floor and (b) each landing 2. Use insulation contact (IC) rated recessed lights
that provides access to an interior or exterior when the recessed parts are installed in an insulated
entry opening. attic. IC rated recessed lights may not require
clearance to insulation or to combustible materials.
Lights Required at Exterior Doors
1. Install at least one switch-controlled wall or ceiling 3. Provide at least 3 inches of clearance between
light on the exterior side of every exterior door insulation and recessed lights that are not labeled
with grade level access. Exterior lights are not as being insulation contact (IC) rated. Do not install
required at garage vehicle doors. insulation above non-IC rated recessed lights.

Choose the proper type of recessed

light fixture for your project. There are
two types of fixtures: those rated for
installation within insulation (left) and
those which must be kept at least 3"
from insulation (right). Self-contained
thermal switches shut off power if
the unit gets too hot for its rating. A
recessed light fixture must be installed
at least 1⁄2" from combustible materials.

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 3'

8'

Keep all parts of

lights and ceiling
fans at least
3' horizontally
and 8' vertically
from bathtubs
328 and showers.
_Codes Look for heavy‑duty ceiling boxes that are specifically rated for
15-2009 Lights in Wet & Damp Locations ceiling fans and heavy light fixtures.
1. Install lights in wet and damp locations so that
water cannot enter or accumulate in the wiring or
energized parts.

2. Use only lights labeled SUITABLE FOR WET

LOCATIONS when installing lights that may be
subject to direct contact with water. Refer to the
definition of wet location (see page 170).

3. Use lights labeled either SUITABLE FOR

WET LOCATIONS or SUITABLE FOR DAMP
LOCATIONS when installing lights in damp
A sturdy metal brace with an integral box that is installed
locations. Refer to the definition of damp location
between ceiling joists can be used to support ceiling fans and
(see page 170). Light fixtures, including ceiling fans, heavy light fixtures.
intended for indoors may not be installed in either
wet or damp locations.
Ceiling Fans & Lights Near Tubs & Showers
Ceiling Fans 1. Install ceiling fans, cord-connected lights, lights
1. Support ceiling fans weighing not more than suspended by cords, chains, or cables, and
70 pounds using boxes listed and labeled to track lights so that no part of the light or fan
support the fan. falls within an exclusion zone measuring 3 feet
horizontally from the base of the tub or shower
2. Support ceiling fans weighing more than stall threshold and 8 feet vertically from the top
70 pounds independently from the box. of the tub rim or shower stall threshold. Parts
include fan blades, bulb enclosures, hanging
chains, and other parts connected to or hanging
from the light or fan.

2. Use light fixtures that are listed for damp locations

if the fixture is: (a) located within the tub or
shower area and (b) within 8 feet from the top of
the tub rim or shower threshold.

3. Use light fixtures that are listed for wet locations if

the fixture is: (a) located within the tub or shower
Light fixtures installed in damp areas should be rated for area, (b) within 8 feet from the top of the tub rim
moisture exposure. or shower threshold, (c) subject to shower spray.

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 3. Provide at least 6 inches between recessed
incandescent and LED light fixtures and the
Closet Lights closest point of the closet storage area.

4. Provide at least 6 inches between fluorescent

Applicable Code DefinItions for Closets:
light fixtures and the closest point of the closet
Clothes closet: A space intended for storage of
storage area.
clothing, a clothes closet usually contains a horizontal
rod for hanging clothing. This definition implies
5. You may install surface-mounted fluorescent and
that this section does not apply to storage areas
LED light fixtures within the closet storage area if
such as linen closets and pantries. As with all codes,
the fixture is identified for use within the area.
application of this section depends on interpretation
by the local building official.
Using Flexible Cords with Equipment
Closet storage area: Clearances to light fixtures 1. Use flexible cords only to connect an appliance to a
required by this IRC Section are between light fixtures receptacle and only if the appliance manufacturer’s
and the closet storage area. The closet storage area is instructions allow connection by a flexible cord.
a space consisting of a hanging rod storage area and
a shelf storage area. The required clearance applies 2. Do not run or conceal flexible cords in walls,
to both areas. The clearances to light fixtures apply ceilings, floors, or raceways.
whether or not shelves or hanging rods are currently
installed in the closet. This means that if a shelf or 3. Do not splice or tap flexible cords.
rod could be installed on a clothes closet wall, you
must assume that one will be installed and that the 4. Provide power to flexible cords through an
clearances to light fixtures apply. attachment plug. Do not hard-wire flexible cords
directly to a power source.
Hanging rod storage area: This area begins at the
5. Do not use flexible cords as a substitute for
closet floor and ends 6 feet above the closet floor or
permanent wiring.
at the highest hanging rod, whichever is higher. The
hanging rod storage area includes all of the space
within 24 inches horizontally from the back and sides
of the closet walls.

Shelf storage area: This begins 6 feet above the

Shelf storage
closet floor or at the highest hanging rod, whichever 12"
6" clearance for
is higher, and ends at the closet ceiling. The shelf fluorescent light
storage area includes all of the space within 12 inches
horizontally from the back and sides of the closet walls 12" clearance for
or within the width of the shelf, whichever is wider. incandescent light

Light Fixture Clearances in Clothing Closets

1. Do not install any incandescent or LED light
fixture in a clothes closet if any part of the lamp is
exposed. This includes both surface mounted and
recessed light fixtures. This includes incandescent
Rod storage
light fixtures that have lamps such as compact 24"
fluorescent installed because the fluorescent lamp
could be replaced with an incandescent lamp. This
includes hanging light fixtures.
Illo 329
2. Provide at least 12 inches between surface
CG_Codes
mounted incandescent or LED light fixtures and
06-15-2009
the closest point of the closet storage area. Closet hanging rod and shelf storage areas.

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 ELECTRIC EQUIPMENT GROUNDING
1. Ground metal parts in an electrical system including equipment cases, cabinets, boxes, conduit, tubing, light fixtures,
and water pumps. Equipment cases include furnaces, air conditioning condensers, water heaters, dishwashers, and
similar equipment.

2. You may ground metal parts in an electrical system by using any currently accepted wiring method that provides
a mechanically and electrically continuous path to the service grounding connection. These methods include:
(a) grounding wires contained in NM cable, (b) separate equipment grounding wires, and (c) metal conduit and tubing
when the fittings at terminations are listed for grounding.

3. Do not use a separate earth ground as the only means of grounding equipment. Example: do not install a separate
driven ground rod to ground an air conditioning condenser.

4. In older homes, the electrical wires do not have a separate grounding wire. Some people install a wire between the
grounding screw of a grounded receptacle and the neutral terminal. This is not safe.

Modern NM (nonmetallic) cable, found in most wiring Armored cable has a metal sheath that can serve as the
systems installed after 1965, contains a bare wire that grounding pathway.
provides grounding for receptacle and switch boxes.

Polarized receptacles have a long slot and a short slot. Three‑slot receptacles are required by code for all new
Used with a polarized plug, the polarized receptacle keeps installations. They are usually connected to a standard
electrical current directed for safety. two-wire cable with ground.

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 Satellite Dishes, Television & Radio Antennas

T his material applies to receiving antennas, such

as satellite dishes, and traditional radio and
television antennas. It does not apply to cable TV
3. Provide at least 4 inches between outdoor antenna
wires and cables and most residential electric
power wires when both are secured so that they
system wiring, and it does not apply to network- cannot move.
powered broadband communication system wiring.
This material also applies to radio transmission 4. Provide at least 12 inches of clearance between
antennas and towers, such as those used by amateur underground antenna wires and underground
radio operators. cables and electric power wires.

Antenna Prohibited Installation Locations

1. Do not attach or secure (guy) antennas to electric
service entrance masts, poles that support electric
power wires, plumbing vent pipes, or furnace
vent pipes.

2. Do not attach or secure (guy) large antennas to

chimneys, including framed and brick veneer
chimneys. These chimneys are not designed to
bear the loads imposed by large antennas. Consult
a qualified contractor or chimney sweep before
attaching or securing large antennas to chimneys.

3. Provide clearance between antennas and

masts and electric power wires so that if the
antenna falls, it is unlikely to fall on the electric
power wires.

Antenna Wire & Cable Clearance

to Electric Power Lines
1. Do not install outdoor, aboveground antenna
wires and cables so that they cross over electric
power wires. Avoid, if possible, installing outdoor,
aboveground antenna wires that cross under
electric power wires. Electric power wires include
wires on overhead power poles, overhead service
drop wires, and any electric power wires running
between buildings.

2. Provide at least 2 feet of clearance between Television aerials and satellite dishes must be located well
outdoor, aboveground antenna wires and cables away from power lines. They should be properly grounded
and electric power lines that can swing freely. and protected against lightning strikes.

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 5. Provide at least a 2-inch clearance between indoor 6. Connect the grounding/bonding wire(s) to one
antenna wires and cables and indoor electric of the following approved grounding/bonding
power wires. points: (a) the intersystem bonding connection
terminal; (b) the building’s grounding electrode,
Grounding Antennas, Masts, grounding electrode wire, or other metal part of
Wires & Cables the building grounding electrode system; (c) a
1. Install a ground/bonding wire between metal metal water service pipe not more than 5 feet from
antenna masts, towers, and support poles and an where the water service pipe enters the building;
approved grounding point. Metal antenna masts (d) the service equipment cabinet or non-flexible
include the short metal mast commonly found on metal service equipment raceway; or (e) the other
satellite dishes. system grounding/bonding connection described
in the IRC.
2. Install a grounding/bonding wire between the
7. Do not connect the antenna mast or coaxial
coaxial cable shield and an approved grounding/
cable to its own ground rod unless the ground
bonding point. You must ground/bond both the
rod is bonded to the building grounding electrode
coaxial cable shield and any metal antenna mast.
system using at least #6 AWG copper wire.
3. Use at least #10 AWG copper wire or #17 copper
8. Secure and support the grounding/bonding wire
clad steel wire as the grounding/bonding wire for
by fastening it to the building or other substantial
receiving equipment only. You may use a #8 AWG
structure. Insulating supports are not required.
aluminum or copper-clad aluminum grounding/
bonding wire for receiving equipment only if it is
9. Protect the grounding/bonding wire if it is exposed
not in contact with masonry, and is not installed
to physical damage. Use a wiring method, such
in a corrosive environment, and is installed at
as metallic conduit, that is approved for use in
least 18 inches above the ground at all points, physical damage environments.
including at the connection to the grounding/
bonding point. 10. Bond (connect) both ends of any metallic conduit
and tubing used to protect the grounding/bonding
4. Use at least #10 AWG copper, bronze, or copper- wire to the bonding/grounding wire.
clad steel as the grounding/bonding wires for
transmitting/receiving stations. Use a larger wire
Grounding Wire Connection
if the lead-in wires are larger than #10 AWG.
Insulation is not required on any grounding/ to the Grounding Point
bonding wire. You may use solid or stranded 1. Use a listed clamp, listed pressure connector, or
grounding/bonding wires for transmitting or other listed means to connect the grounding wire
receiving stations. to the grounding point.

5. Run the grounding/bonding wire in as straight a 2. Install the listed connector so that it is both
physically and electrically connected to the
line as possible to an approved grounding point.
grounding point. This means removing paint,
lacquer, rust, and other non-conductive material
SOURCE FOR THIS MATERIAL before attaching the listed connector to the
grounding point.
The material in this section is based on the National
Electrical Code (NEC)®, 2017 Edition. Most local 3. Connect not more than one grounding wire to a
building officials use the NEC as a supplement to or in listed connector unless the connector is listed to
place of the IRC when dealing with residential electrical accept more than one wire.
issues. The IRC does not address antennas, so the NEC
is usually the appropriate source for rules regarding
4. Use a listed connector that is compatible
installation of antennas and the wires that connect them
with both the grounding point and the grounding
to the receiving equipment. Verify with the local building
official which version, if any, of the NEC is adopted in
wire material. Example: an iron or steel clamp
your area. is not compatible with a copper water pipe. Both
materials will corrode over time.

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 residential electric power wires when both are
secured so that they cannot move.

4. Measure the vertical clearance between overhead

broadband cables and the ground, walkway,
driveway, or street beginning at the lowest hanging
point of the cables and ending at the surface under

Broadband the lowest point.

Cable Wiring
5. Provide at least 9½ feet vertical clearance between
broadband cables and finished grade, sidewalks, or
platforms accessed by pedestrians only.

T his material applies to network-powered 6. Provide at least 11½ feet vertical clearance
broadband communication system wiring. between overhead broadband cables and
These systems usually deliver television, telephone, residential property and driveways.
Internet, and similar services. They operate at up
to 150 volts and 100 watts. This material does not 7. Provide at least 15½ feet vertical clearance between
apply to standard cable TV system wiring, and it does overhead broadband cables and public streets,
not apply to satellite TV antenna wiring. Some new alleys, roads, or parking areas subject to truck traffic.
communication systems use fiber-optic cables. This
article does not apply to fiber-optic cables. 8. Provide the same clearance between overhead
broadband cables and swimming pools, spas, and
hot tubs as for electrical wires.
Overhead Broadband Cable Clearance
1. Install outdoor, aboveground broadband
9. Provide at least 8 feet vertical clearance between
communication cables above electric power wires
broadband cables and most low-slope roofs.
whenever possible.
10. Provide at least 18 inches of vertical clearance
2. Avoid installing outdoor, aboveground broadband
between broadband cables and roof overhangs if
communication cables near electric power
not more than 4 feet of cable passes over the roof
wires that can swing freely. Electric power wires
and if the cable terminates at a through-the-roof
include wires on overhead power poles, overhead
raceway or support. This is similar to clearances
service drop wires, and any electric power wires
allowed for service drop wires.
running between buildings. Provide at least
12 inches of clearance between outdoor, above-
11. Provide at least 3 feet vertical clearance between
ground broadband communication cables and
broadband cables and roofs with a slope of at least
electric power lines that can swing freely. Increase
4 inches in 12 inches.
clearance to at least 40 inches at the power pole.

3. Provide at least 4 inches between outdoor Broadband Cable Burial Depth

broadband communication cables and most 1. Bury broadband cables at least 18 inches deep
when the cables are not covered by concrete or
enclosed in conduit or other raceways. You may
LOW & MEDIUM POWER reduce the depth to at least 12 inches when the
BROADBAND SYSTEM DEFINITION cables are under concrete residential driveways,
patios, and similar concrete slabs. Refer to the NEC
Low power broadband systems operate at not more than for burial depths when the cables are enclosed in
100 volts, and medium power systems operate at not conduit or raceways.
more than 150 volts. Verify voltage rating and system
classification with the broadband service provider. The
operating voltage of the system affects how the cables
Grounding Broadband Cables
are installed. 1. Install a copper (or other corrosion-resistant
material) grounding/bonding wire at least

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 #14 AWG between the broadband cable not more than 9 feet from the nearest wall of the
shield and an approved grounding/bonding point. home. Use at least #6 AWG copper wire to make
this connection.
2. Connect the grounding/bonding wire to the
broadband cable shield at a point as close as 8. Connect the broadband cable shield to the metal
possible to where the outside cable terminates frame of the manufactured home if the grounding/
outside the building. If the outside cable enters bonding connection is made as described in #7
the building, make this connection at a point as above. Use at least #12 AWG copper wire to make
close as possible to where the outside cable enters this connection.
the building.
9. Protect the grounding/bonding wire if it is exposed
3. Run the grounding/bonding wire in as straight to physical damage. Use a wiring method, such
a line and as short a distance as possible from as metallic conduit, that is approved for use in
the broadband cable shield grounding/bonding physical damage environments.
connection point to an approved grounding/
bonding point. Broadband Cable
& Electric Power Wire Separation
4. Limit the length of the grounding/bonding wire
to not more than 20 feet. If the broadband cable 1. Do not run low-power or medium-power
shield ground/bonding point is more than 20 broadband cables in the same conduit,
feet from an approved grounding point, you may tubing, raceway, junction and device box, or
install at least an 8-foot-long ground rod near enclosure with electric power wires unless an
where the cable enters the building and bond the exception applies.
ground rod to the electrical service grounding
system using at least #6 AWG copper wire. 2. You may install low-power and medium-power
broadband cables and electric power wires
5. Connect the grounding/bonding wire(s) to one in the same cabinet or box when the electric
of the following approved grounding/bonding power wires are intended to supply power
points in other than manufactured homes: to the broadband cable system, such as for
(a) the intersystem bonding connection terminal; an amplifier.
(b) the building’s grounding electrode, grounding
electrode wire, or other metal part of the building 3. Separate indoor broadband cables and electric
grounding electrode system; (c) a metal water power wires by at least 2 inches.
service pipe not more than 5 feet from where the
water service pipe enters the building; (d) the 4. Separation described in number 3 is not required
service equipment cabinet or non-flexible if the electric power wires or broadband cables
metal service equipment raceway; or (e) the other are enclosed in conduit, tubing, metal cable
system grounding/bonding connection described armor or if the electric power wires and cables
in the IRC. are permanently separated from each other by a
continuous non-conductive material.
6. Connect the grounding/bonding wire(s) to
one of the approved grounding/bonding 5. Separation described in number 3 is not required if
points described above at manufactured the electric power wires are contained in a jacket,
homes if the home has service equipment or a such as with types NM, UF, and AC cable. This
grounded power disconnecting means located means that, in most cases, separation between
not more than 9 feet from the nearest wall of broadband cables and electric power wires is
the home. required only when individual electric wires are
installed in conduit or tubing.
7. Connect the grounding/bonding wire(s) to the
manufactured home’s grounding electrode if 6. Provide, if possible, at least 6 feet of separation
the home does not have service equipment or a between coaxial cables and any part of a lightning
grounded power disconnecting means located protection system.

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 APPENDIX

Common Mistakes
An electrical inspector visiting your home might wiring and devices. Most public libraries carry
identify a number of situations that are not up reference copies of the NEC.
to code. These situations may not be immediate All electrical inspectors are required to be well
problems. In fact, it is possible that the wiring in your versed in the NEC. Their job is to know the NEC
home has remained trouble free for many years. regulations and to make sure these rules are followed
Nevertheless, any wiring or device that is not up in order to prevent fires and ensure safety. If you have
to code carries the potential for problems, often at questions regarding your home wiring system, your
risk to your home and your family. In addition, you local inspector will be happy to answer them.
may have trouble selling your home if it is not wired While a book cannot possibly identify all potential
according to accepted methods. wiring problems in your house, we have identified
Most local electrical codes are based on the some of the most common wiring defects here and
National Electrical Code (NEC), a book updated will show you how to correct them. When working on
and published every three years by the National Fire home wiring repair or replacement projects, refer to
Protection Agency. This code book contains rules and this section to help identify any conditions that may
regulations for the proper installation of electrical be hazardous.

Electrical inspectors
are on the lookout for
common mistakes.
The following pages
detail problems to
avoid so you will pass
inspection on the
first try.

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 Service Panel Inspection

Problem: Rust stains are found inside the main service panel. Solution: Have an electrician examine the service head and
This problem occurs because water seeps into the service the main service panel. If the panel or service wires have
head outside the house and drips down into the service panel. been damaged, new components must be installed.

Problem: This problem is actually a very old and very Solution: Remove the penny and replace the fuse. Have a
dangerous one. A penny or a knockout behind a fuse licensed electrician examine the panel and circuit wiring.
effectively bypasses the fuse, preventing an overloaded circuit If the fuse has been bypassed for years, wiring may be
from blowing the fuse. This is very dangerous and can lead to dangerously compromised, and the circuit may need to
overheated wiring. be replaced.

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 Problem: Two wires connected to one single-pole breaker Solution: If there is room in the panel, install a separate
is a sign of an overcrowded panel and also a dangerous breaker for the extra wire. If the panel is overcrowded, have
code violation unless the breaker is approved for such an electrician upgrade the panel or install a subpanel.
a connection.

RECOGNIZING ALUMINUM WIRE

Solid-conductor aluminum wire was used in place of copper in many wiring systems installed beginning around 1964 and
continuing until the late 1970s. Aluminum wire is identified by its silver color and by the AL stamp on the cable sheathing.

By the late 1960s, reports of house fires were traced to solid-conductor aluminum wire. Investigators discovered a couple
of causes. One cause was aluminum's tendency to oxidize (rust), especially when connected to copper at switches,
receptacles, and other wires. The other cause was that the aluminum wire being used until about 1972 tended to shrink
and swell at a different rate than other materials. These problems increased heat at the connections and caused the fires.

By about 1974, the problems had been corrected and inventories of existing wire and devices had been depleted. The
aluminum wire alloy was changed to reduce the shrink and swell problem. Switches and receptacles were changed to the
CO/ALR type, which reduced the oxidation problem. By about 1980, though, solid-conductor aluminum wire had such a
bad reputation that its use in the United States was minimal. It's unusual to find solid-conductor aluminum wire in houses
built after about 1980, although some #8 AWG is being installed even today.

Here is some general advice about dealing with solid-conductor aluminum wiring. A qualified electrician who is familiar
with the issues should work on wiring installed between 1964 and about 1974. The aluminum wire produced during this
period may not be entirely safe even when connected to CO/ALR devices. Aluminum wire installed after 1974 should be
safe when connected to CO/ALR devices; however, connecting aluminum wire to copper wire should only be done using
connectors designed for this purpose.

You should not confuse solid-conductor aluminum wire with similar wire and with wire that looks similar but is not
aluminum. Stranded aluminum wire continues to be used for large appliance circuits, feeders, and service entrance wires.
It is safe when properly installed with anti-oxidant paste at terminals.

Copper-coated aluminum wire was produced in the 1970s. It is treated like aluminum wire but does not share the
same problems. Copper-coated aluminum wire is uncommon. “Tin-coated” copper wire was installed mainly during the
1940s and 1950s. This wire looks like aluminum wire but is
copper. This wire's safety may be questionable because of
deterioration of its insulation, not because of the wire itself.

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 Inspecting the Bonding Jumper Wire

Problem: Grounding system jumper wire is missing or is Solution: Attach a jumper wire to the water pipes on either
disconnected. In most homes the grounding jumper wire side of the water meter using pipe clamps. Use wire that is
attaches to water pipes on either side of the water meter. the same size and type as the grounding electrode wire.

Common Cable Problems

Problem: Cable running across joists or studs is attached to Solution: Protect cable by drilling holes in framing members
the edge of framing members. Electrical codes forbid this at least 2" from exposed edges and threading the cable
type of installation in exposed areas, such as unfinished through the holes.
basements or walk-up attics.

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 Problem: Cable running along joists or studs hangs loosely. Solution: Anchor the cable to the side of the framing members
Loose cables can be pulled accidentally, causing damage at least 1¼" from the edge using plastic staples. NM (non-
to wires. metallic) cable should be stapled every 4½' and within 8" of
each electrical box.

Cable shown cutaway

Problem: Cable threaded through studs or joists lies close to Solution: Install metal nail guards to protect cable from
the edge of the framing members. NM (non-metallic) cable damage. Nail guards are available at hardware stores and
(shown cutaway) can be damaged easily if nails or screws are home centers.
driven into the framing members during remodeling projects.

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 Problem: Unclamped cable enters a metal electrical box. Solution: Anchor the cable to the electrical box with a
Edges of the knockout can rub against the cable sheathing cable clamp. Several types of cable clamps are available at
and damage the wires. hardware stores and home centers.

NOTE: With plastic boxes, clamps are not required if cables

are anchored to framing members within 8" of the box.

Problem: Cables are spliced outside an electrical box. Exposed Solution: Bring installation up to code by enclosing the
splices can spark and create a risk of shock or fire. splice inside a metal or plastic electrical box. Make sure the
box is large enough to accommodate the number of wires
it contains.

APPENDIX 227

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 Checking Wire Connections

Pigtail

Problem: Two or more wires are attached to a single-screw Solution: Disconnect the wires from the screw terminal, then
terminal. This type of connection is seen in older wiring but is join them to a short length of wire (called a pigtail) using a
now prohibited by the NEC. wire connector. Connect the other end of the pigtail to the
screw terminal.

Exposed wire

Problem: Bare wire extends past a screw terminal. Exposed Solution: Clip the wire and reconnect it to the screw terminal.
wire can cause a short circuit if it touches the metal box or In a proper connection, the bare wire wraps completely
another circuit wire. around the screw terminal, and the plastic insulation just
touches the screw head.

Problem: Wires are connected with electrical tape. Electrical Solution: Replace electrical tape with wire connectors. You
tape was used frequently in older installations, but it can may need to clip away a small portion of the wire so the bare
deteriorate over time, leaving bare wires exposed inside the end will be covered completely by the connector.
electrical box.

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 Problem: Nicks and scratches in bare wires interfere with the Solution: Clip away the damaged portion of the wire, then
flow of current. This can cause the wires to overheat. restrip about ¾" of insulation and reconnect the wire to the
screw terminal.

Electrical Box Inspection

Armored cable

Sharp edges
Protective sleeve

Problem: No protective sleeve on armored cable. Sharp edges Solution: Protect the wire insulation by installing a plastic
of the cable can damage the wire insulation, creating a shock sleeve around the wires. Sleeves are available at hardware
hazard and fire risk. stores. Wires that are damaged must be replaced.

Problem: Insulation on wires is cracked or damaged. If Solution: Wrap damaged insulation temporarily with plastic
damaged insulation exposes bare wire, a short circuit can electrical tape. Damaged circuit wires should be replaced by
occur, posing a shock hazard and fire risk. an electrician.

APPENDIX 229

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 Problem: Open electrical boxes create a fire hazard if a short Solution: Cover the open box with a solid metal cover plate,
circuit causes sparks (arcing) inside the box. available at any hardware store. Electrical boxes must remain
accessible and cannot be sealed inside ceilings or walls.

Problem: Short wires are difficult to handle. The NEC Solution: Lengthen circuit wires by connecting them to short
requires that each wire in an electrical box have at least 6" of pigtail wires using wire connectors. Pigtails can be cut from
workable length. scrap wire but should be the same gauge and color as the
circuit wires and at least 6" long.

Problem: A recessed electrical box is hazardous, especially Solution: Add an extension ring to bring the face of the
if the wall or ceiling surface is made from a flammable electrical box flush with the surface. Extension rings come in
material, such as wood paneling. The NEC prohibits this type several sizes and are available at hardware stores.
of installation.

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 Problem: Open electrical boxes create a fire hazard if a short Solution: Vacuum the electrical box clean using a narrow
circuit causes sparks (dust and dirt in an electrical box can nozzle attachment. Make sure power to the box is turned off
cause hazardous, high-resistance short circuits). When at the main service panel before vacuuming.
making routine electrical repairs, always check the electrical
boxes for dust and dirt buildup.

Problem: Crowded electrical box (shown cutaway) makes Solution: Replace the electrical box with a deeper
electrical repairs difficult. This type of installation is prohibited electrical box.
because heat in the box may cause a fire.

Problem: Light fixture is installed without an electrical box. Solution: Install an approved electrical box to enclose the wire
This installation exposes the wiring connections and provides connections and support the light fixture.
no support for the light fixture.

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 Inspecting Receptacles & Switches

Problem: Octopus receptacle attachments used Solution: Use a multi-receptacle power strip with built-in
permanently can overload a circuit and cause overheating of overload protection. This is for temporary use only. If the need
the receptacle. for extra receptacles is frequent, upgrade the wiring system.

Problem: Scorch marks near screw terminals indicate that Solution: Replace the receptacle. Make sure wires are
electrical arcing has occurred. Arcing usually is caused by connected securely to screw terminals.
loose wire connections.

Problem: Exterior receptacle box allows water to enter the box Solution: Replace the old receptacle box with an in-use box
when receptacle slots are in use. that has a bubble cover to protect plugs from water while they
are in the slots.

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 Problem: White neutral wires are connected to a switch. Solution: Connect the black hot wires to the switch, and join
Although the switch appears to work correctly in this the grounded white wires together with a wire connector.
installation, it is dangerous because the light fixture carries
voltage when the switch is off.

Problem: White neutral wires are connected to the brass Solution: Reverse the wire connections so that the black
screw terminals on the receptacle, and black hot wires hot wires are attached to brass screw terminals and white
are attached to silver screw terminals. This installation is neutral wires are attached to silver screw terminals. Live
hazardous because live voltage flows into the long neutral slot voltage now flows into the short slot on the receptacle.
on the receptacle.

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 Measurement Conversions
ENGLISH TO METRIC
TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY: TO CONVERT: TO: MULTIPLY BY:
Inches Millimeters 25.4 Millimeters Inches 0.039
Inches Centimeters 2.54 Centimeters Inches 0.394
Feet Meters 0.305 Meters Feet 3.28
Yards Meters 0.914 Meters Yards 1.09
Square inches Square centimeters 6.45 Square centimeters Square inches 0.155
Square feet Square meters 0.093 Square meters Square feet 10.8
Square yards Square meters 0.836 Square meters Square yards 1.2
Ounces Milliliters 30.0 Milliliters Ounces .033
Pints (US) Liters 0.473 (lmp. 0.568) Liters Pints (US) 2.114 (lmp. 1.76)
Quarts (US) Liters 0.946 (lmp. 1.136) Liters Quarts (US) 1.057 (lmp. 0.88)
Gallons (US) Liters 3.785 (lmp. 4.546) Liters Gallons (US) 0.264 (lmp. 0.22)
Ounces Grams 28.4 Grams Ounces 0.035
Pounds Kilograms 0.454 Kilograms Pounds 2.2

Resources
Air Diffusion Council (ADC) American Wood Council International Code Council (ICC)
Flexible air ducts “Prescriptive Residential Deck Develops residential and commercial
847-706-6750 Construction Guide” building codes
www.flexibleduct.org 202-463-2766 Publishes International Residential Code®
www.awc.org 888-422-7233
American Concrete Institute
Document ACI 332 Black & Decker Corporation www.iccsafe.org
248-848-3800 Power tools & accessories National Fire Protection Association (NFPA)
www.concrete.org 800-544-6986 Publishes National Electrical Code® (NEC)
www.blackanddecker.com 800-344-3555
American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI)
www.nfpa.org
Information and references International Association of Plumbing
847-759-2820 and Mechanical Officials (IAPMO)
www.ashi.org Publishes Uniform Plumbing Code®
and Uniform Mechanical Code®
909-472-4100
www.iapmo.org

Photo Credits
Bruce Barker: 52, 188, 207
City of Swainsboro: 11 (top)
iStock: 35 (left), 39 (bottom), 70 (top), 218
Moberg Fireplaces (www.mobergfireplaces.com): 104
Shutterstock: 21 (top left), 25 (top right), 30, 34 (both), 35 (right), 62, 101 (both)

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 Index
aboveground exhaust duct construction, 38 band board, 65 fire separations, 22–23
aboveground service, 180, 182–183 bars, 30 habitable rooms, 20–21
ABS plastic pipe joints, 144 baseboard heating systems, 112 smoke and carbon monoxide alarms,
accessible (readily), 170 basements 42–43
accessible (wires), 170 ceiling height for, 20 stairways, 24–29
air, prohibited sources for return and concrete for, 50 ventilation and exhaust, 36–41
outdoor, 117 escape openings in, 30 building drain, 126
air admittance valve, 126, 155 lights required in, 214 building sewer, 126
air conditioners. See also heating and air receptacles in, 201, 203
conditioning bathrooms cable
condensate disposal for, 114–115 ceiling fans and lights near, 215 common problems with, 225–227
parts for central, 110 circuits for, 190 definition of, 170
room units, 190 design standards for, 21 secured to cabinet, 207
air gaps, 166 receptacles in, 201, 202 carbon monoxide alarms, 42–43
air intake vents, 111 windows in, 35 ceiling fans, 215
air movement requirements, 37 bedroom floor joist spans, 62–63 ceiling height, minimum, 20–21
airtight construction, 119 bend (elbow), 140 ceiling joist
aluminum wire, recognizing, 224 bonding, 170, 184–188 bearing on support, 88
American Concrete Institute, 49 bonding jumper wire, 225 bridging and lateral support for, 88
anchor bolts, 51 bottom plate construction, 75 deflection for, 92
anchor straps, 51 braced wall, 78 nailing to rafter, 89–90
antennas, 218–219 branch circuit notches and holes in, 88
appliances definition of, 170 span definitions for, 91, 92
chimney as vent for, 105 load limits for, 189–191 ceilings, fire separation and, 23
circuits for, 190 quantity of receptacles on, 191 central air conditioner parts, 110
fuel‑burning, 118–123 requirements for, 189–197 certificates of occupancy, 15
HVAC, 110–115 branch drain, 126 chimney crickets, 102
not requiring a vent, 123 branch vent, 126 chimneys, 104–107
prohibited locations for, 111 braze (brazing), 126 circuit breaker panels, 210–211
arc‑fault (AFCI) protection, 203 brick veneer, 103 clay soil, 48
area requirements, 20 bridging, 66 cleanout openings, 146–147
area wells, 31 broadband cable wiring, 220–221 closed‑cut valley flashing, 101
armored cable, 217 building departments, 11 closet bend, 140
attics building design and safety closet flange, 139, 140, 161
access to, 95 about, 19 closet lights, 216
lights required in, 214 door and window hazards, 34–35 clothes dryer exhaust requirements, 40–41
storage in, 91 egress doors, 32 clothes washing machines, 163
wiring protection in, 197 emergency escape openings, 30–31 code compliance, 11
Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ), 11 exterior doors, 33 codes & permits, basics of, 8–17

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 cold water supply system, 131 ducts ground‑fault (GFCI) and arc‑fault (AFCI)
collar ties, 88 combustion air, 119–120 protection, 202–203
combustion air construction of, 40 junction boxes, device boxes and
for fireplaces, 105 installation of HVAC, 116–117 enclosures, 204–211
for fuel‑burning appliances, 118–120 length of, 40–41 light fixture installation, 214–217
concrete, foundation, 50–51 sizing of HVAC, 114 satellite dishes, television and radio
concrete encased electrodes, 187 antennas, 218–219
condensate disposal, 114–115 edge spacing, 70 switch installation, 212–213
conduit and tubing installation, 196 egress doors, 32 understanding electrical circuits,
connections and joints, drain and sewer egress requirements, 30 173–183
pipe, 142–145 egress wells, 31 electrodes, grounding, 186–188
continuity, 29 egress windows, 30 emergency escape openings, 30–31
corrugated stainless steel gas tubing, elastomeric gaskets, 127, 138, 144, 145 enclosures, 204–211
bonding, 188 electric equipment grounding, 217 endnailing, 70
coupling, 140 electric radiant (baseboard) heating environmental load, 46
crawlspaces, 52–53, 203, 214 systems, 112 exhaust, 36–41
cripple wall framing, 77 electrical boxes exhaust fan labels, 37
cutoff valves, 136 inspection of, 229–231 exhaust hoods, 38
length of wires extending from, 177 exterior components
damp locations, 206, 215 non‑metallic, 204 about, 97
dead load, 46, 91 specifications for, 209 fireplaces and chimneys, 104–107
decks, 54–61 supports for, 206–207 shingle roof‑covering installation,
beams, 58 types of, 208 98–103
bracing, 61 unclamped cable entering, 227 exterior doors, 33, 214
flashing, 59 electrical branch circuit requirements, exterior receptacles, 201, 202–203
flooring, 60 189–197 exterior stairways, 24, 25
footings, 56 electrical currents, understanding,
guards and handrails, 60–61 173–183 facenailing, 70
joists, 56–58 electrical panels factory‑built fireplaces, 106–107
posts, 58–59 identification of circuits in, 174 fall hazard rules, 34, 35
stairs, 60 inspecting for proper grounding, 185 fasteners, roofing, 103
decorative chimney covers, 107 prohibited locations for, 174 final inspections, 15
deflection of structural components, 46–47 working clearances around, 175 fire separation, 22–23
device boxes, 204–211 electrical receptacle installation, 198–201 fireblocking, 82–83
discharge tubes, 114–115 electrical rough‑in inspection, 17 fireplaces, 104–107
dishwashing machines, 162 electrical service fire‑rated doors, 22
door hazards, 34–35 disconnecting, 179 fittings
doors identifying, 180–181 definition of, 126
exterior, 33, 214 electrical system DMV, 140–142
how to flash, 85 about, 169–172 for water supply lines, 133–134
lights required at, 214 broadband cable wiring, 220–221 fixture drain, 126–127
downdraft ventilation, 39 electrical branch circuit requirements, fixtures
draftstopping, 68 189–197 definition of, 126
drainpipe, 126, 137 electrical grounding and bonding, flow rate at, 132
drip edge, 99 184–188 flashing
drip pans, 159 electrical receptacle installation, roof, 101–103
drop wire clearances, 182–183 198–201 for skylights, 102

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 vent, 150 grounding electrode wire, 170, final, 15
wall penetration, 84–85 186–188, 219 of footings, 16
flexible cords, 197 grounding wire, 170 of foundation walls, 16
flexible HVAC duct installation, 116–117 grounding wire continuity, 178 framing, 17
flexible water connectors, 134 guards, 28–29, 60–61 of heating and air conditioning, 17
floor joist openings, 66 gypsum drywall, 23 overview of, 14–17
floor joist span tables, 62–63 of plumbing rough‑in, 17
floor sheathing, 67 habitable rooms, 20–21, 214. See also of receptacles, 232–233
floor systems, 62–69 individual rooms required, 15
floor trusses, 68 handrails, 28–29, 60–61 of service panel, 223–224
food disposers, 163 hardware of switches, 232–233
footings for decks, 54, 55 inspectors, working with, 11–12
inspection of, 16 for joists, 65 installation instructions, 13
width and depth for, 49 headers, on supports, 64 insulation clearance to heat producing
forced air heating system, 111 headwalls, 103 devices, 95
foundation anchors, 51 hearth extension, 104 intake openings, 37, 117
foundation walls inspection, 16 heat alarms, 42 interior stairways, 24–29
foundations, 48–51 heat producing devices, insulation intermediate spacing, 70
four‑way switches, 212 clearance to, 95 International Building Code (IBC), 9, 10
FOUR‑wire feeder, 186 heating and air conditioning International Code Council (ICC), 8
framing inspection, 17 about, 109 International Energy Conservation Code
framing materials, wood nailing to, 71 combustion air for fuel‑burning (IECC), 9
freeze proof yard hydrant, 129 appliances, 118–120 International Fuel Gas Code (IFG), 9
furnaces, 110 in garage, 23 International Mechanical Code (IMC), 9
fuses, common problems with, 223 HVAC appliances, 110–115 International Plumbing Code (IPC), 9
HVAC duct installation, 116–117 International Residential Code (IRC), 7,
garage inspection of, 17 8, 9, 10
appliances installed in, 113 vents for fuel‑burning appliances, ionizing alarms, 42
concrete for, 50 121–123 irrigation systems, 167
definition of, 22 high wind, 46 island fixture vent, 154–155
fire separation and, 22–23 hip rafter framing, 86–87
receptacle circuits for, 190 home wiring system, 172 jumper wire, 225
receptacles in, 201, 202 hose bibs, 136 junction boxes, 204–211
gas fireplaces, 106 hot water supply system, 131
gas furnace parts, 110 house numbers, 33 kick‑out flashing, 84, 103
gas pipe bonding, 188 hub, 127 kitchens. See also individual appliances
girders, on supports, 64 hurricane ties/clips, 46, 57, 90 exhaust fan rates, 39
grade plane, 10 exhaust requirements, 38
grandfathering existing work, 13 ice dams, 100 receptacle installation, 200–202
gravel soil, 48 I‑joists, 68 kneewall areas, 20
ground fault, 170, 184 indirect waste receptor, 127
grounded (definition), 170 inlet, 140 laminated beam, 68
grounded wire, 170 inspections laminated glass, 34
ground‑fault (GFCI), 202–203 of electrical boxes, 229–231 landing, 24, 27–28, 32, 33
grounding, 184–188, 220–221 of electrical panels, 185 lateral load connector hardware, 55
grounding electrode, 170 of electrical rough‑in, 17 laundry receptacle, 201

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 laundry receptacle circuits, 190 in top plate, 75 raceways, box support by, 206
laundry tray, 127 in wall studs, 76 radio antennas, 218–219
ledger attachment, 55–56 rafters
light fixtures O.C. (on center), 70 bearing on support, 88
boxes for, 204 offset, 127 bridging and lateral support for, 88
common problems with, 231 offset joints, 75 ceiling joist nailed to, 89–90
installation of, 214–215 on‑center spacking, 58 deflection for, 92
lighting, for stairways, 24, 25 open risers, 26 notches and holes in, 69, 88
live loads, 29, 46–47, 91, 93 OSB panel labels, 67 span definitions for, 91, 93
living area floor joist spans, 63 outdoor air, prohibited sources for, 117 truss connection to walls and, 90
load‑bearing walls outlet, 171 rain cap, 105
floor joists under, 64 overcurrent protection device, 171 range hoods, 38, 39
stud size and spacing for, 73 receptacles
loads, 46–47 permit expiration, 15 definition of, 171
local building codes, 8 permits, 14–15 inspecting, 232–233
local code amendments, 9 pet doors, 22 installation of, 198–201
location (damp), 170 photoelectric alarms, 42 types of, 217
location (wet), 170–171 pipe support, 135 receptor (indirect waste), 127
locks, 30, 32 pipes recessed lights, 214
lumber connections and joints between, relief valves, 158
for decks, 54, 60 142–145 required inspections, 15
nailing structural, 72 drain and sewer, 138 resources, 234
joints between different types, 145 return air, prohibited sources for, 117
manufacturer’s instructions, 13 protecting, 136 ridge framing, 86–87
masonry fireplace clearance, 104–105 size reduction, 145 ridgeboards, 86–87
measurement conversions, 234 slope of, 145 rim joist connections, 57
microwave ovens, 39 plate constructions, 75 riser, 24
mildew, 36 plumbing rough‑in inspection, 17 riser height, 26
mistakes, common, 222–233 plumbing systems rod and pipe electrodes, 187
moisture, 36 about, 125–129 roof, vent height above, 123
mold, 36 drain, waste and vent piping (DWV), roof deck type restriction, 98
multiwire branch circuit, 171, 191 137–147 roof flashing, 101–103
home plumbing system, 130 roof slope
nail guards, 226 plumbing appliances and fixtures, restrictions for, 98
nailing definitions, 70 157–167 underlayment application for, 99–100
National Electric Code (NEC), 9, 222 plumbing traps, 156 roof systems, 86–95
National Fire Protection Agency, 222 plumbing vents, 148–155 roof truss installation, 94
NM cable, 193–195, 217 water supply piping, 131–136 roofing fasteners, 103
non‑grounding type receptacles, 199 plywood labels, 67 rust stains, 223
nonload‑bearing walls, stud size and point load, 46, 47
spacing for, 74 polarized receptacles, 217 saddle fitting, 128
nosing, 24, 27 post cap hardware, 59 safety, wiring, 173, 189, 211
notches and holes pressure‑reducing valve, 132 safety glazing, 34–35
in ceiling joist, 88 private inspectors, 12 sandy gravel soil, 48
in joists and rafters, 68–69 pull‑down stairs, 23 sandy soil, 48
in joists and studs, 193 purlins, 87 sanitary tee, 141
in rafters, 69, 88 PVC plastic pipe joints, 144–145 satellite dishes, 218–219

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 seismic risk areas, 46 stop‑and‑waste valve, 129 tubs, 21
service clearance, 182 street fitting, 141 Type X drywall, 23
service current capacity requirements, structural components
minimum, 174 about, 45–470 UF cable, 193–195
service drop, 171 crawlspaces, 52–53 underground service lateral, 181
service entrance wires, 171 decks, 54–61 underground water pipe electrodes, 187
service panel, 179 floor systems, 62–69 underlayment
service panel inspection, 223–224 foundations, 48–51 application of, 99–100
sewer pipe, 138 roof systems, 86–95 specifications for, 99
shield plate, 75 wall penetration flashing, 84–85 ungrounded conductor, 171
shingle roof‑covering installation, 98–103 wall systems, 70–83 Uniform Plumbing Code (UPC), 9
showers, 21, 165 structural panel wall bracing, 78, 80, 82 unused openings, closure of, 174
silt soil, 48 subfloor, nailing one‑piece, 72
sinks, 20, 21 support posts, 58 valley framing, 86–87
site address, 33 supports, for flooring system, 64–65 vent (plumbing term), 129
skylights, 102 sweep, 141 vent pipes, 137, 148–155
slip joint, 128, 139 switches vent stack, 129
smoke alarms, 42–43 inspecting, 232–233 vent termination, 150–155
snow loads, 91, 93 installation of, 212–213 vents and ventilation, 36–41
soil (plumbing term), 128 load limits for, 212 chimney as appliance vent, 105
soil load‑bearing capacities, 48 for stairways, 24, 25 clearance for, 122
soil types, common, 48 connectors and fittings for, 121
solder (soldering), 128 tailpiece, 129, 139 for crawlspaces, 52–53
solvent cement, 144 tamper‑resistant receptacles, 198–199 for fireplaces, 104
sone ratings, 37 tee, 141 for fuel‑burning appliances, 121–123
spark arrestor, 105 television antennas, 218–219 joints between, 123
splices, 176, 227 tempered glass, 34–35 plumbing, 148–155
spread footing, 50 three‑slot receptacles, 217 slope of, 123
stack, 128 three‑way switches, 212 volume units, 205
stack vent, 128 timer switches, 213
stairways, 24–29 toenailing, 70 wall bracing, 78–82
on decks, 60 toilets, 20, 21, 160–161 wall footing, 50
dimensions for, 25–26 top plate construction, 75 wall penetration flashing, 84–85
exterior, 24, 25 transition cement, 144 wall studs
guards for, 28–29 transition duct, 41 notches and holes in, 76
headroom height for, 27 traps, 129, 137, 148, 156 size and spacing for, 73–75
landings for, 27–28 tread, 24 wall systems, 70–83
lighting and switching for, 24–25 tread depth, 26 walls, fire separation and, 23
terms for, 24 tread nosing, 27 waste, 129
width for, 25 tread slope, 27 waste tee, 163
windows in, 35 trusses water distribution pipes, 133–134
standpipe, 129 alteration and repair of, 94 water flow, 132
staples as shingle fasteners, 103 connection to walls, 90 water heaters, 157–159
state building codes, 8 design and bracing requirements for, 94 water pipe bonding, 188
steel pipe joints, 144 floor, 68 water pressure, 132
step flashing, 102 installation tolerances for, 94 water supply backflow protection, 166
step footing, 50 roof, 94 water supply riser, 165

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 water‑hammer arrestors, 163 wire, recognizing aluminum, 224 wood nailing
web‑type trusses, 68 wire connections, checking, 228 definitions for, 70
wet locations, 206, 213, 215 wire volume unit, 205 requirements for, 71–72
wet surfaces, safety glazing near, 35 wires wood structural panel wall bracing, 82
wet vents, 153–154 color codes for, 178 wood‑burning fireplace energy efficiency
whirlpool bathtubs (jetted baths), 164, 203 connecting to terminals, 177 requirements, 105
wind, high, 46 size chart for, 178 woven valleys, 101
winder stair tread, 27 splicing, 176 wye, 141
winder tread, 24 wiring methods, 192–197
window hazards, 34–35 wiring safety, 173, 189, 211 yard hydrant (freeze proof), 129
window wells, 31 wiring support requirements, 196
windows wood grades, in wall construction, 73 zoning ordinances, 10
above bathtubs and showers, 35
fall hazard rules for, 35
how to flash, 85

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