Global Organic Textile Standard

Global Organic Textile Standard-

Benefits and Contribution to India

CSR Mandate & Voluntary Sustainability Standards:

Contribution to Business, Economy, Society and
Environment in India
New Delhi
16th December, 2014

Sumit Gupta
India Representative
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
[email protected]
Background of the Standard
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)

“GOTS is recognized as the leading

processing standard for textiles made from
organic fibres worldwide. It defines high level
environmental criteria along the entire
supply chain of organic textiles and requires
compliance with social criteria as well.”
Milestones in History

August 2002 Formation of the International Working Group on

Intercot, Düsseldorf Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS IWG)
May 2005 Four parties agree on the 1st Version of the GOTS
Intercot, Chicago
October 2006 Start of certification system
June 2008 Introduction of the logo & release of the Labelling Guide
IFOAM Conference
March 2011 Release of GOTS Version 3.0
International Working Group (IWG)

International Association Natural Textile Industry (IVN), Germany

Soil Association (SA), England

Organic Trade Association (OTA), USA

Japan Organic Cotton Association (JOCA), Japan

 IWG / Committees

International Working Technical Committee Certifiers Council

Group IWG TC CC
Decisive committee for Generating revisions of the Advisory function for all
organizational, structural standard, development of issues related to the GOTS
and political issues quality assurance system quality assurance system

One board representative of One expert appointed by One representative of each

each party and the each party of the IWG GOTS approved certifier
Coordinator and the Technical Director and the Technical Director
and coopted independent
experts
GOTS approved Certifiers- 1

BCS Öko-Garantie, Germany

bio.inspecta, Switzerland

CCPB, Certificazione e controllo prodotti biologici, Italy

Ceres, Germany

Control Union Certifications, Netherlands

Ecocert Greenlife, France

ETKO Ekolojik Tarim Kontrol Organizasyonu, Turkey

ICEA Istituto per la Certificazione Etica e Ambientale, Italy

GOTS approved Certifiers- 2

IMO Institute for Marketecology, Switzerland

Letis, Argentina

OIA Organizacion Internacional Agropecuaria, Argentina

OneCert, USA

Oregon Tilth, USA

Soil Association Certification, England

Bioagricert Srl

Control Union, India

Control Union, Turkey

Revision of GOTS Standard-
Multi Stakeholder Approach

Organisations invited to participate:

• Members of the International Working Group on GOTS
• Approved Certification Bodies
• 20 International stakeholder organizations with expertise in:
• organic production
• textile processing and manufacturing
• textile chemistry
• social criteria
and representing the industry, NGOs as well as consumer
interests.
Harmonisation process
Basic Features

Organic Fibres

Environmental and Concerns all

Social Criteria Processing Stages

Testing for Harmful

Substances
Basic Key criteria for fiber use

Organic Fibers
• Minimum of 70% certified organic fibers
• Certification according to recognised organic production standards
(such as NPOP, Regulation EC 834/2007 or USDA NOP)
Additional Fibers (Balance 30% or 5% content)
• Non- GMO Natural Fibres
• Maximum of 10% synthetic or regenerated fibers
(respective max. 25% for socks, leggings and sportswear)
• Maximum 30% of Sustainable Regenerated or recycled synthetic fibres
Organic Fibres

Criteria Item
Fibres Allowed Cotton, Bast, Silk, Wool, Other Animal Fibres
(Certified Organic)
Fibres Not Allowed Conventional Cotton, Conventioanl Angora
Wool, Virgin Polyester, GMO, Asbestos, carbon,
steel, Acrylic
Fibres Restricted Synthetic & Regenerated (Max 10%)
Special Conditions For socks & Sportswear, including Yogawear
(in Restricted Fibres) (Max 25%)
Special Conditions • Regenerated fibres from organic raw
(Regenerated fibres) materials, from certified sustainable forestry
management are permitted now up to 30%
Special Conditions • Recycled synthetic fibres are permitted now
(Synthetic fibres) up to 30%
Entry Level Criteria in GOTS for Organic Fibres

Approved organic standards are:

• Regulation (EC) 834/2007
• USDA National Organic Program (NOP)
• Any (other) standard approved in the IFOAM Family of Standards
for the relevant scope of production (crop or animal production)
CBs must at least have one of the following qualifications:
• ISO 65 / 17065 accreditation
• NOP accreditation
• IFOAM accreditation
• IFOAM Global Organic System accreditation
Criteria for processing/ additives

• General criteria for all processing stages

(e.g. separation, record keeping, environmental policy, social criteria)
• General ban on harmful substances in all processing stages
(e.g. formaldehyde, toxic heavy metals, GMOs)
• General criteria for the assessment of chemical inputs (Positive List)
Should meet GOTS Version 4.0 (meeting limits on human and environmental
(aquatic, fauna, flora and soil) toxicity as well as on biodegradability/ eliminability)
• Specific criteria for the different processing stages (e.g. functional waste
water treatment plant for wet processing plants, limitations on materials for
accessories and finishing methods)
Positive lists – Statistics (For Additives)

• As on 31st Dec, 2013, Positive lists according to GOTS Version 3.0

are prepared for more than 398 suppliers of dyes and auxiliaries
• They contain
3746 trade names of colourants and
5662 trade names of auxiliary agents

The positive lists are available to all operators participating in the

GOTS certification system through their certifier
Minimum Social Criteria

Meeting social minimum criteria based on the ILO Key Norms is

compulsory for all processing and manufacturing stages.

The requirements include:

• No child labor
• Payment of living wages
• Working hours must not be excessive
• Safe and hygienic working conditions
• No discrimination, no harsh or inhumane treatment
• Mandatory fire safety drills
• Operators must establish social compliance management tools that
support the implementation and monitoring of the social minimum
criteria
Social Criteria- Audit Considerations

Certification programs of which the results should be considered and

recognised in the course of GOTS inspection:
• Fair Wear Foundation (FWF)
• Social Accountability 8000 (SA 8000)
• Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP)
• Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI)
Environment Criteria

• Energy & Water Consumption Data must be available

• Waste & Discharges
• Chemical & Sludge Disposal
• Staff Training
• Max COD content of discharged water: 20 g/kg of textile output
• pH of discharged water 6 to 9
• Max Temperature of discharged water 35 °C
Storage, Packing, Transport & Record Keeping

• Contamination with non organic products is prohibited

• PVC in packing materials is prohibited
• Paper/cardboard in packing has to be FSC Certified or recycled, from
1st Jan, 2014
• Pesticide/ Biocide use in storeroom/ transportation has to be in
accordance with International/ National Organic Production Standard
• Transaction Certificates (TCs) are obligatory (considering the new
policy that allows for multiple shipments covered on a single TC)
• Records relevant to the inspection must be kept for at least 5 years
Dual system for quality assurance

On-Site inspection Residue Testing

• On-site inspection of the • Orientation values for
entire processing chain residues
up to the import level • Risk assessment of
• Annual inspection cycle & contamination
• Organic product flow, • Analysis in ISO 17025
environmental and accredited labs
social criteria subject to
inspection
Label grading

Using 95 – 100% Using 70 – 94%

organic fibres: organic fibres:

Organic Made with (x %)

certified by [certifier’s ref.] organic materials
certified by [certifier’s ref.]
Licensing system

• The GOTS logo may be used as on-product and consumer label to market
GOTS certified textiles

• Intermediate Textiles may carry the GOTS logo as well

• Use of logo not permitted for additives suppliers at the moment.

However, they can mention it in text.
GOTS- an Ideal Sustainability Tool

• Covers all natural textile fibres

• Covers all processes in manufacture
• Covers Chemical Restrictions
• Covers Product Performance
• Covers Waste Management to check environment pollution
• Covers Social Aspects (ILO)
• Covers Work Environment
• Covers Water and Energy Management
• GOTS is legally registered as a Non-Profit Organisation in Germany.
Hence GOTS has no commercial interest and is working for
upliftment and safety of people and stakeholders involved
The Gold Standard for Sustainability
Current Outreach –India and Globally
Development of certified facilities- Global
2006 - 2013
Breakdown of facilities by region / country- 2013

3085 facilities certified to GOTS in 62 countries

(in 2012: 3016 in 62 countries)
India 1029 (1062) Australia +
USA + New Zealand
Canada
China 197 (252) Central + South
Africa America
Asia other 514 (552)

Europe India
Turkey 421 (400)

Europe 791 (606)

Turkey China
Asia other
Africa 54 (59)

USA / Canada 48 (47)

Central- / South America 28 (33)

Australia / New Zealand 3 (5)

GOTS • slide 28 • 12/12/2014
Positive List (for dyes, chemicals, enzymes)

As on 31st Dec, 2013 data, the global Positive List Contained

• 398 suppliers

They contain
• 3,746 trade names of colourants and
• 5,662 trade names of auxiliary agents
Latest Developments

• 1st International GOTS Conference to be held on 22nd May, 2014 in

Mumbai, India

• Launched GOTS Water / Energy Tool for licensees. This software lets
you calculate your water and energy consumption per unit of
product and also lets you compare your productivity with the Global
Benchmarks (http://www.global-standard.org/the-standard/gots-
monitor/download/downloads/downloads.monitor.01.html)

• Launched of Video depicting the Changes in Version 4.0 (from ver

3.0) http://www.global-standard.org/images/videos/GOTS4changes.mp4

• GOTS- SA Joint Campaign- Have you cottoned on yet? Phase II

launched in Sep-2013 via Infographic www.cottonedon.org

• GOTS Version 4.0 launched on 1st March, 2014

Implementation
Implementation of GOTS Certification for
Processing of Organic Textiles

• Source certified Organic fibres as Raw Material and collect TCs from
the suppliers (Public Database can be very helpful here)
• Switch to Low Impact Additives (choose from positive list)
• Eco Friendly Processing Techniques
• Compliant with International Restricted Substance List (RSL)- End
product testing
• Environment Criteria – solid / liquid waste- Create and Maintain an
Environment Policy
• Implement robust Social compliance (no child labour, pay living
wages etc)
• Ensure that all points mentioned in Version 4.0 are complied with
• Audit and Certification at every processing step
Certification Along the Supply Chain
Certification Systems along Supply Chain

Cotton Farm/Collector Processing Units Retailer

Government regulated standards Industry voluntary standards Industry voluntary standards

Scope & Transaction Scope & Transaction Scope & Transaction

Certificate Certificate Certificate
 Traceability and Mass Calculations

Farmer / Ginning Knitting /

Mill / Collector Spinning Finishing End Product
Weaving/Dyeing

Yield Production 500 tons : Factory A 200 ton: Factory A1 100 tons : Factory C 50 tons : End Buyer 1
100 tons : Factory D
1000 tons 300 ton: Factory A2 200 tons : Factory E 50 tons : End Buyer 2
500 tons : Factory B 100 tons : Factory F

Note: There is a production loss due to wastage at every processing step.

The above figures are for representation purpose only.
Increasing Recognition- Awards

• GOTS got the Consortium of Green Fashion Award for Best

Sustainability Initiative, NGO Category, Apr 2013

• The award "Green Brand Germany 2013/2014” was given to DM's

brand “Alana” for GOTS certified products for children in August
2013

• The award "Outdoor industry Award Best New Products" was given
to the Running Shirt of the first GOTS certified athletic wear of the
German company Engel in the Sustainable Products category in July
2013
Increasing Recognition- USDA, USA

USDA (United States Department of Agriculture):

• NOP (National Organic Program) policy memorandum (dated 20th

May 2011) explicitly recognises GOTS and its label grade ‘organic’:
“Textile products that are produced in accordance with the Global
Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) may be sold as organic in the U.S.”
• USDA clarifies that ‘made with organic’ is also a codified label grade
and can only be used for textiles certified to NOP or GOTS
• Clarifies that the use of the term ‘organic’ in the labelling of textile
products requires:
- - the use of NOP certified raw fibres and
- - third party certification of the supply chain
Increasing Recognition- Europe

• GOTS is a part of the recently launched Alliance of Brands and

Standards for sustainable sourcing practices by Federal German
Government

• GOTS Technical Director has been formally nominated by DIN as a

member of Comité Européen de Normalisation [CEN]/TC 248, WG 32
Working Group ‘Use of the term organic and other environmental
marketing terms’

• The assessment process is going on as per EC ISO 14024. We’ve

already discussed in management and will provide a statement on
our website soon that GOTS is a Type 1 Standard according to EC
ISO 14024.
Increasing Recognition- IFOAM

IFOAM (International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movement):

• GOTS has been welcomed by the IFOAM World Board as an IFOAM
Affiliate Member

• IFOAM has removed the textile processing section in its standard

with the fact that it has been supplanted by GOTS

• Apr 2013- IFOAM issued Recommendation to Governments not to

develop parallel national standards and to encourage GOTS for
organic textiles in their respective countries
IFOAM Against National Textile Standards

Source: http://www.ifoam.org/en/node/2499
Contribution of GOTS to India
Major Benefits to India from GOTS (1)

• One International Standard for all markets- trust for consumers,

brands, manufacturers and all stakeholders.
• Generating market and customers for organic cotton, finally
benefiting organic farmers
• Premium for GOTS Certified Organic Textiles
• Higher business opportunities and increase in foreign exchange
earnings
• Better working conditions for labourers in certified textile processing
facilities; hence benefitting the poor workers
• Limited Cost of Compliance due to acceptance of GOTS certification
over the world for organic textiles
Major Benefits to India from GOTS (2)

• Thousands of dyes and auxiliaries in India were assessed for

important environmental criteria like toxicity, biodegradability,
ingredients and residues of hazardous substances under GOTS
Approval Program.

• Almost no environmental data have been available previously for

many of these products and GOTS assessment and registration was
the reason why important environmental data have been assessed
and tested and corresponding MSDS have been prepared.

• Only treated water is discharged from textile factories participating

in GOTS program.
Major Benefits to India from GOTS (3)

• Better Aquatic Life: Fish are saved from harmful chemicals like
APEOs and therefore restricting their entry to food chain as well

• Local residents saved from health hazards arising from toxic

industrial waste

• W/E Monitor will let the textile processors monitor their water &
energy consumption and productivity. W/E Monitor is free to
download and use for all our licensees.

• Licensees can also approach our UK based Partner for further

support and additional services to achieve improvement in their
plants
GOTS Recognition in India-1

On tune of USA, Govt of India should recognise the benefits GOTS has
been extending to India since 2006.

An Official Endorsement from the relevant authorities in Ministry of

Textiles, Ministry of Commerce, APEDA and Director General of
Foreign Trade will enhance its presence in India and will be highly
beneficial to environment, society and organic textiles business in
India.
GOTS Recognition in India-2

• Post implementation of ISOT from 18th Dec, 2014 onwards, only

organic textiles that are certified to ISOT will be exported. But there
are various practical and infrastructure issues that need to be
addressed before implementation.
• We therefore call on the responsible Indian authorities especially to
reconsider their implementation deadline set for NPOP/ISOT
certification for organic textile exports in order to allow the Indian
export industry to align in line with the new legal requirements in a
realistic timeframe of further twelve months upto 18th Dec, 2015.
• Secondly, as ISOT is restricted to cotton and silk only, we request
the DGFT to modify the notification to allow export of GOTS certified
organic materials made with other organic fibres like wool, jute, coir
etc., which are not covered under ISOT, for which the NPOP/
Tracenet TC cannot be generated.
Further Information

• www.global-standard.org

• GOTS and related documents available for download

• Public data base containing the GOTS certified entities, their

products and fields of operation

• News and latest developments, subscribe to our newsletter.

• http://www.global-standard.org/information-centre/faqs.html

• www.cottonedon.org
Global Organic Textile Standard
GOTS has been committed to support India and active
backing from you will help us achieve our goals together.

Thank You!

Sumit Gupta
India-Representative
Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)
[email protected]
+91 9892270594