20

FROZEN DESSERTS

AFTER READING THIS CHAPTER, YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO:

1. Judge the quality of ice creams and sorbets and common ice cream and sorbet desserts.
2. Prepare ice creams and sorbets.
3. Prepare still-frozen desserts, including bombes, frozen mousses, and frozen soufflés.

THE POPULARITY OF ice cream needs no explanation. Whether it is a plain scoop of

vanilla ice cream in a dish or an elaborate assemblage of fruits, syrups, toppings, and
numerous flavors of ice cream and sherbet, a frozen dessert appeals to everyone.

Until recently, few establishments made their own ice cream because of the labor
involved, the equipment required, and the sanitation regulations and health
codes that had to be followed. Furthermore, the wide availability of high-quality
commercially produced ice creams made it unnecessary for operations to prepare
their own. But today, many restaurants find that offering their own homemade
sorbets and ice creams is appealing to customers. In fact, in the finest restaurants,
customers may expect the pastry chef to produce frozen desserts as well as pas-
tries. Thus, learning to make ice cream has become an important skill.
545
546 C H A P T E R 20 FROZEN DESSERTS

You will find that much of this chapter seems familiar. The base for ice cream, for exam-
ple, is the same crème anglaise you have used in many other preparations. Other tech-
niques, too, in this chapter, such as preparing syrups and whipping meringues, are used
in many areas of the bakeshop.

IDENTIFYING QUALITY ICE CREAM AND SORBET DESSERTS

ICE CREAM AND sherbet are churn-frozen, meaning they are mixed constantly while being frozen.
If they were not churned, they would freeze into solid blocks of ice. The churning keeps the ice
crystals small and incorporates air into the dessert.
In this section we identify ice cream and sorbet products, learn how to judge the quality of
frozen desserts, and look at some traditional frozen dessert combinations. This discussion
applies to both commercially made and home-made ice creams and sorbets.

Types of Frozen Dessert Products

Ice cream is a smooth, frozen mixture of milk, cream, sugar, flavorings, and, sometimes, eggs.
Philadelphia-style ice cream contains no eggs, and French-style ice cream contains egg
yolks. The eggs add richness and help make a smoother product because of the emulsifying prop-
erties of the yolks.
Ice milk is like ice cream, but with a lower butterfat content. Frozen yogurt contains yogurt
in addition to the normal ingredients for ice cream or ice milk.
Sherbets and ices are usually made from fruit juices, water, and sugar. American sherbets
usually contain milk or cream and, sometimes, egg whites. The egg whites increase smoothness
and volume. Ices, also called water ices, contain only fruit juice, water, sugar, and, sometimes, egg
whites; they do not contain milk products. The French word sorbet (pronounced sor BAY) is some-
times used for these products. Granité (pronounced grah nee TAY) is coarse, crystalline ice, made
without egg whites.
Italian versions of ice cream, sorbet, and granité are called gelato (plural, gelati), sorbetto
(plural, sorbetti), and granita (plural in Italian, granite; or, in common English usage, granitas).
Traditional Italian gelato (which means, basically, “frozen”) is usually lower in fat than other ice
creams. Gelato flavors such as vanilla and chocolate are often made with milk only, and no cream.
Fruit gelati often contain cream, but because they are mostly fruit purée, they are still low in fat.
In addition, many gelati are made without egg yolks, and most are made without other emulsifi-
ers and stabilizers. Thus, they melt quickly and have a light texture and flavor in the mouth. On
the other hand, they are mixed less than ice creams and have low overrun (defined below), con-
tributing to a rich mouth feel (also defined on the next page).

Production and Quality

A basic French- or custard-style ice cream mix is simply a crème anglaise or custard sauce mixed with
1 or 2 parts heavy cream for every 4 parts milk used in the sauce. This base is flavored, as desired, with
vanilla, melted chocolate, instant coffee, sweetened crushed strawberries, and so on, chilled thor-
oughly, and then frozen according to the instructions for the particular equipment in use.
When the mix has frozen, it is transferred to containers and placed in a deep freeze at below
0°F (–18°C) to harden. (Soft-frozen or soft-serve ice creams and gelati are served directly as they
come from the churn freezer, without being hardened.)
Whether you make ice cream or buy it, you should be aware of three quality factors:
1. Smoothness is related to the size of the ice crystals in the product. Ice cream should be fro-
zen rapidly and churned well during freezing so large crystals don’t have a chance to form.
Rapid hardening helps keep crystals small, as do eggs and emulsifiers or stabilizers
added to the mix.
Large crystals may form if ice cream is not stored at a low-enough temperature (below
0°F/–18°C).
2. Overrun is the increase in volume due to incorporation of air when freezing ice cream.
It is expressed as a percentage of the original volume of the mix. For example, if the mixture
 IDENTIFYING QUALITY ICE CREAM AND SORBET DESSERTS 547

doubles in volume, then the amount of increase is equal to the original volume, and the
overrun is 100%.
Some overrun is necessary to give a smooth, light texture. If ice cream has too much
overrun, it is airy and foamy and lacks flavor. It was once thought that ice cream should have
from 80 to 100% overrun, and that less would make it heavy and pasty. This may be true for
ice creams containing gums and other stabilizers, but some high-quality manufacturers pro-
duce rich (and expensive) ice cream with as little as 20% overrun.
Overrun is affected by many factors, including the type of freezing equipment, the
length of churning time, the fat content of the mix, the percentage of solids in the mix, and
how full the freezer is.
3. Mouth feel, or body, depends, in part, on smoothness and overrun, as well as
other qualities. Good ice cream melts in the mouth to a smooth, not too heavy ICE CREAM
liquid. Some ice creams have so many stabilizers they never melt to a liquid. S TA B I L I Z E R S
Unfortunately, many people are so accustomed to these products that an ice
cream that actually does melt in the mouth strikes them as “not rich enough.” Recall from earlier discussions of emulsions
Butterfat from cream contributes to a rich mouth feel. However, too high a (pp. 67, 375) that fat and water, normally
fat content can detract from the texture. This is because, when fat content is unmixable, can be combined into a stable
especially high, some of the fat may congeal into tiny lumps of butter during mixture called an emulsion. Emulsions are
churn-freezing, producing a grainy texture. essential for the smooth texture of ice
A good gelato has a light, smooth mouth feel, attributable to low fat con- cream, which contain water and butterfat.
tent and lack of emulsifiers, combined with low overrun.
A problem faced by commercially produced
ice creams is that as temperatures change
Storage and Service during shipping and storage, some of the
Five guidelines are essential to the proper storage and service of churn-frozen desserts: water in ice cream can melt and refreeze,
damaging the emulsion and, therefore, the
1. Store ice creams and sherbets below 0°F (–18°C). This low temperature helps
texture of the product.
prevent the formation of large ice crystals.
2. To prepare for serving, temper frozen desserts at 8° to 15°F (–13° to –9°C) for Ice cream manufacturers minimize this
24 hours so they will be soft enough to serve. problem by adding a variety of stabilizers
not generally found in high-quality
3. When serving, avoid packing the ice cream. The best method is to draw the scoop
homemade or artisan ice creams.
across the surface of the product so the product rolls into a ball in the scoop.
Commonly used stabilizers include agar,
4. Use standard scoops for portioning ice cream. Normal portions for popular des- carrageenan, guar gum, gelatin, pectin, and
serts are as follows: sodium alginate. These ingredients, when
used in tiny quantities (from 0.15 to 0.5% of
Parfait Three No. 30 scoops
the mix), help prevent ice crystal formation
Banana split Three No. 30 scoops
when storage temperature fluctuates.
À la mode topping for pie or cake One No. 20 scoop
Sundae Two No. 20 scoops
Plain dish of ice cream One No. 10, 12, or 16 scoop

5. Measure syrups, toppings, and garnishes for portion control. For syrups, use pumps that dis-
pense measured quantities, or use standard ladles.

Popular Ice Cream Desserts

Parfaits are made by alternating layers of ice cream and fruit or syrup in tall, narrow glasses. They
are usually named after the syrup or topping. For example, a chocolate parfait has three scoops
of vanilla or chocolate ice cream alternating with layers of chocolate syrup, and topped with
whipped cream and shaved chocolate. (This is the most common meaning of the term parfait in
North America. See page 558 for the original parfait.)
Sundaes or coupes consist of one or two scoops of ice cream or sherbet placed in a dish or
glass and topped with any of a number of syrups, fruits, toppings, and garnishes. They are quick
to prepare, unlimited in variety, and as simple or as elegant as you wish—served in an ordinary
soda fountain glass or in a silver cup or crystal champagne glass.
Coupes are often elegant, attractively decorated desserts. Many types have been handed
down from the classic cuisine of years ago. The following are classic coupes and similar desserts
that still may be made today, but often with different names (the classical names are given as a
point of interest, but with the exception of Peach Melba, Pear Belle Hélène, and Coupe au Marrons,
they aren’t often used today).
548 C H A P T E R 20 FROZEN DESSERTS

Coupe Arlesienne. In the bottom of the cup, place a spoonful of diced candied fruits that
have been soaked in kirsch. Add a scoop of vanilla ice cream, top with a poached pear half,
and coat with apricot sauce.
Coupe Black Forest. Place a scoop of chocolate ice cream in the cup and add sweet, dark
cherries flavored with a little cherry brandy. Decorate with rosettes of whipped cream and
shaved chocolate.
Coupe Edna May. Top vanilla ice cream with sweet cherries. Decorate with whipped cream
mixed with enough raspberry purée to color it pink.
Coupe Gressac. Top vanilla ice cream with three small almond macaroons moistened with
kirsch. Top with a small poached peach half, cut side up, and fill the center of the peach with
red currant jelly. Decorate with a border of whipped cream.
Coupe Jacques. Place a scoop each of lemon sherbet and strawberry ice cream in a cup. Top
with a mixture of diced, fresh fruit flavored with kirsch.
Coupe aux Marrons. Top vanilla ice cream with candied chestnuts (marrons glacés) and
whipped cream.
Coupe Orientale. Place diced pineapple in the bottom of the cup and add pineapple sher-
bet. Top with apricot sauce and toasted almonds.
Peach Melba. Top vanilla ice cream with a poached peach half covered with Melba Sauce
(p. 270) and topped with slivered almonds.
Pear Belle Hélène. Top vanilla ice cream with a poached pear half covered with chocolate
sauce and garnished with toasted, sliced almonds.
Among other popular ice cream desserts mentioned earlier in this book are Meringues
Glacèes (p. 346) and Frozen Éclairs and Profiteroles (p. 331). The popular festive dessert called
baked Alaska is discussed in the Procedure for Making Baked Alaska. Although no one is sur-
prised by it anymore, one of the classic names for this dessert is Soufflè Surprise, so called
because it looks like baked whipped eggs on the outside but is frozen inside.

PROCEDURE: Making Baked Alaska

1. Pack softened ice cream into a dome-shaped mold of the 4. With a spatula, cover the entire dessert with a thick layer
desired size. Freeze solid. of meringue. If desired, decorate with more meringue
2. Prepare a layer of sponge cake the same size as the flat forced from a pastry bag.
side of the mold and about 1⁄2 in. (12 mm) thick. 5. Bake at 450°F (230°C) until the raised edges of the
3. Unmold the frozen ice cream onto the cake layer so the meringue decorations turn golden brown.
cake forms the base for the ice cream. 6. Serve immediately.

KEY POINTS TO REVIEW

❚ What do the following terms mean as related to frozen desserts: Smoothness? Overrun?
Mouth feel?
❚ How should frozen desserts be stored and served?
❚ What are sundaes? How are they prepared?
❚ What is baked Alaska? How is it prepared?
 PREPARING ICE CREAMS AND SORBETS 549

P R E PA R I N G I C E C R E A M S A N D S O R B E T S
THE SAME QUALITY factors that apply to commercially made frozen desserts, described above,
apply to those you make yourself.
The first two recipes that follow illustrate the basic procedures for making ice cream and
sorbet. Using the procedures in these two recipes, you can make an unlimited variety of frozen
desserts, as exemplified by the many variations that follow each main recipe. Following these
basic recipes are additional recipes for specialty ice creams and sorbets.

Ice Cream Production

As in other areas in the bakeshop, accurate measurement of ingredients is important. In the case
of frozen desserts, proper measurement is important to ensure the mix freezes properly. This is
because the ratio of sugar weight to total weight has a strong effect on freezing. If an ice cream or
sorbet mix contains too much sugar, it will not freeze enough to become firm. On the other hand,
an ice cream with too little sugar will not be as smooth as one with the correct amount.
For a basic vanilla ice cream, the weight of the sugar is usually 16 to 20% of the total weight.
Adding other ingredients makes the calculation more complicated because many ingredients,
such as fruits, contain sugar. When you are developing new recipes, test a small batch of the mix-
ture to see how hard it freezes, and increase or decrease the quantity of sugar as necessary.
Ice creams have a better texture when the finished mix is refrigerated for about 12 hours
before freezing. This maturing time enables the proteins of the eggs and milk to bond with more
of the water molecules in the mixture. This bonding leaves fewer water molecules available to
form ice crystals, which can give ice cream a grainy texture.
Careful sanitation procedures are critical to ice cream production because
the ice cream mix is a good breeding ground for bacteria. Use equipment made
of stainless steel or other nonporous and noncorrosive material, and properly
clean and sanitize it after every use.

Sorbet Production
A basic sorbet mixture is simply a sugar syrup mixed with flavoring ingredi-
ents. For sorbets, the proportion of sugar in the mix is even more crucial to
the texture of the final product than it is for ice cream, because sorbets do
not contain the cream or egg yolks that contribute to the smooth texture of
ice cream. Rather, the size of the ice crystals is the most important factor in Hydrometer.
texture.
The sugar content of fruit varies with its ripeness and other factors. Therefore, testing the
sugar concentration of sorbet mix is the surest way to achieve proper texture. Sugar concentra-
tion can be measured with a hydrometer, also called a saccharometer (see photo, top right). Basic
measurement of sugar concentration, using the Brix and Baumé scales, is discussed on page 252.
For best freezing, sorbet mixtures should be at a concentration of 30° to 32.5° Brix or 16° to 18°
Baumé (see photo, lower right). If the sugar density is too high, dilute with a little water. If it is too
low, add a little sugar syrup to increase the sugar content.
Rapid freezing produces smaller ice crystals, and thus smoother texture, than slow freezing.
For sorbets as well as for ice creams, chill the mixture well before freezing so it freezes in the
shortest possible time.
Using a little corn syrup in place of some of the sugar for the syrup may also contribute
slightly to smoothness in some sorbets. Classic sorbets, however, are based on a syrup made only
with regular granulated sugar. Using corn syrup in a syrup for sorbets darkens it somewhat,
because of increased browning of the sugars and starches in the corn syrup. This may be a disad-
vantage for some white or light-colored sorbets.
For granitas, unlike for sorbets, large crystals are characteristic of the product and are desir-
able. Classic granitas are made with sorbetlike mixes, but with two differences: First, the sugar
content is slightly lower, so the ice crystals are larger. Second, rather than being churn-frozen, the Testing a sorbet mix with a
mixture is still-frozen in a pan and stirred periodically as it freezes. This freezing method gives hydrometer.
granitas their typical icy texture.
550 C H A P T E R 20 FROZEN DESSERTS

VANILLA ICE CREAM

Yield: about 2 qt (2 L), depending on overrun

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Vanilla ice cream mix is basically a custard
Egg yolks 8 oz (12 yolks) 250 g (12 yolks)
sauce or crème anglaise with the addition
Sugar 12 oz 375 g of heavy cream. Review the guidelines for
preparing crème anglaise on page 260.
Milk 2 pt 1L
2. Combine the egg yolks and sugar in a
bowl. Whip until thick and light.
Heavy cream 1 pt 500 mL
3. Scald the milk and gradually beat it into
Vanilla extract 2 tsp 10 mL
the egg mixture.
Salt pinch pinch
4. Heat the mixture over a hot-water bath or
in a double boiler, stirring constantly, until
VA R I AT I O N S
it thickens enough to coat the back of a
For a less rich ice cream, substitute milk for part of the cream. In addition, the spoon. Immediately remove from the heat.
quantity of egg yolks may be decreased to 4 oz (125 g). 5. Stir in the cold cream to stop the cooking.
VANILLA BEAN ICE CREAM Add the vanilla and salt. (Note: If you are
not using freshly opened, pasteurized
Split 1 or 2 vanilla beans, scrape out the seeds, and simmer the seeds and pods
cream, it is best to scald and cool the
with the cream. Cool. Remove and discard the pods. Omit the vanilla extract from
cream, or else to heat it with the milk in
the basic recipe.
step 3. In this case, set the cooked custard
CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM in an ice-water bath as soon as it is
Reduce the sugar to 9 oz (280 g). Melt together 4 oz (125 g) unsweetened cooked, to stop the cooking.)
chocolate and 4 oz (125 g) bittersweet chocolate. When the custard has cooled 6. Chill the mixture thoroughly. Refrigerate
to tepid, carefully stir it into the melted chocolate. Reduce the cream to 12 oz overnight to mature the mix (see p. 549).
(375 mL). 7. Freeze in an ice cream freezer according to
CINNAMON ICE CREAM the manufacturer’s directions.
Add 1 tbsp (5 g) cinnamon to the egg mixture before cooking.
COFFEE ICE CREAM ALMOND, HAZELNUT, OR MACADAMIA
Flavor the hot custard mix to taste with instant coffee powder PRALINE ICE CREAM
or instant espresso powder. Make a praline with any of these nuts, following the recipe for
Nougatine (p. 658). Crush 6 oz (185 g) praline and add it to
CAROB ICE CREAM
chilled vanilla or caramel ice cream mix before freezing.
After adding the scalded milk to the egg mixture, beat in 3 oz
(90 g) roasted carob powder. Proceed as in basic recipe. CHEESECAKE ICE CREAM
Prepare the basic vanilla ice cream mix, but use only 4 oz (125 g)
COCONUT ICE CREAM
egg yolks, and substitute milk for half of the cream. In a mixer
Reduce the number of egg yolks to 4 oz (125 g). Reduce the with the paddle attachment, blend 2 lb (1 kg) cream cheese,
sugar to 4 oz (125 g). Add 12 fl oz (375 mL) canned, sweetened 7 oz (200 g) sugar, 1 tsp (3 g) each grated lemon zest and orange
coconut cream to the yolks and sugar. Omit the heavy cream zest, and 11⁄2 oz (50 mL) lemon juice until light and free of lumps.
and vanilla. Stir the cooked mix over ice until cold, to prevent Gradually add the chilled custard and mix until smooth. Chill
the coconut fat from separating. well. Freeze.
CARAMEL ICE CREAM STRAWBERRY ICE CREAM
Omit the vanilla. Caramelize the sugar, following the Reduce the number of yolks to 4 oz (125 g). Mash 11⁄2 lb (750 g)
procedure in the recipe for Caramel Sauce (p. 271) but fresh or frozen (unsweetened) strawberries with 6 oz (185 g)
omitting the lemon. Add the 1 pt (500 mL) heavy cream from sugar and refrigerate at least 2 hours. Mix the strawberries
the basic recipe and simmer until the caramel is dissolved, with the cold ice cream mix before freezing.
again following the procedure in the caramel sauce recipe,
steps 2–4. Beat the eggs, add the hot milk and caramel
cream, make the custard, and finish the ice cream as in the
basic recipe. (continues)
 PREPARING ICE CREAMS AND SORBETS 551

VA R I AT I O N S CO N T I N U E D
RASPBERRY SWIRL ICE CREAM LEMON ICE CREAM
Reduce the number of yolks to 4 oz (125 g). Mash 1 lb (500 g) Reduce the quantity of milk to 1 pt (500 mL) and the sugar to
fresh or frozen (unsweetened) raspberries with 4 oz (125 g) 8 oz (250 g). Scald the milk and cream together. Omit the
sugar. Refrigerate at least 2 hours. Make vanilla ice cream and vanilla. With these exceptions, make the ice cream mix as in
freeze in an ice cream freezer. After the churn-freezing is the basic recipe.
finished but before hardening the ice cream, fold in the Separately, combine 2 tbsp (15 g) grated lemon zest and 1 oz
raspberries, but do not mix in completely; leave it in swirls. (30 g) sugar. Work the zest and sugar together with the back
MANGO ICE CREAM of a spoon or with a mortar and pestle to make a coarse
paste. Beat this lemon sugar with 3 egg yolks (2 oz/60 g).
Reduce the number of yolks to 4 oz (125 g). Combine 11⁄2 lb
Add 12 oz (375 mL) lemon juice and beat over hot water
(750 g) sieved mango purée, 3 oz (90 mL) lime juice, and 3 oz
until thick and creamy, as for making crème anglaise. Cool
(90 g) sugar. Refrigerate at least 2 hours. Combine with cold
over ice. Refrigerate the lemon mixture and the custard
custard mix and freeze.
mixture separately until ready to freeze. Combine the mixtures
PEACH ICE CREAM and freeze.
Mash 2 lb (1 kg) sliced fresh peaches, 4 oz (125 g) sugar, and LIME ICE CREAM
1 oz (30 mL) lemon juice. Reduce the number of egg yolks to
Substitute lime zest and juice for the lemon in the preceding
4 oz (125 g). Omit the milk, increase the cream to 2 pt (1 L),
recipe.
and make the custard with the cream. Mix the peaches with
the cold custard and freeze.

GINGERBREAD-SPICE ICE CREAM

Ingredients U.S. Metric
Ginger 1 ⁄2 tsp
1
2.8 g (7 mL)
Cinnamon 1 tsp 1.7 g (5 mL)
Cloves, ground 1
⁄2 tsp 1 g (2 mL)
Nutmeg 1
⁄4 tsp 0.5 g (1 mL)
Molasses 2 oz 60 g
Add the spices to the egg mixture before cooking. Add the
molasses to the mixture after cooking.

ICE CREAM FREEZERS

Modern commercial ice cream freezers operate on the same principle as old-fashioned
hand-cranked freezers. In those home devices, refrigeration is provided by a mixture of ice,
water, and salt. The salt lowers the temperature of the melting ice below the freezing point of
water to enable it to freeze the ice cream mix. The ice cream mix is placed in a cylinder
surrounded by the ice and salt. A paddle, or dasher, continuously scrapes the freezing ice
cream mixture off the walls of the cylinder, and at the same time incorporates air into the mix.
Modern batch freezers work the same way, except an electric refrigeration unit does the
freezing, instead of salt and ice. In vertical batch freezers, the cylinder is upright, just as in the
old-style hand-cranked machines. This type of freezer incorporates the least amount of air into
the mix, resulting in low overrun. Horizontal batch freezers, with a horizontal cylinder,
incorporate more air and produce ice cream with overrun up to 100%. Depending on the
model, horizontal machines freeze ice cream quickly, finishing a batch of 6 quarts (6 L) or
more in about five minutes.
Continuous ice cream freezers are used by high-volume operations. Instead of producing one
batch at a time, the mix flows continuously into one end of the cylinder, while the frozen
product is extruded at the other end. Such machines can produce 150 to as much as 3000
quarts (liters) or more of ice cream in an hour. Continuous ice cream freezers also incorporate
the most air, resulting in ice cream with overrun from 60 to 140%.
552 C H A P T E R 20 FROZEN DESSERTS

SORBET
Yield: variable

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Make a syrup by heating the sugar and
Sugar (see Note) 12 oz 375 g
first quantity of water to dissolve the
Water 8 fl oz 250 mL sugar. Cool.
2. Prepare the desired flavor ingredients as
Fruit juice or pulp or other flavor (see variations) (see variations)
indicated in the variations that follow. If
ingredients
additional water is required, mix it with
Water (see variations) (see variations) the flavor ingredient.
NOTE: Including corn syrup as part of the sugar may slightly increase smoothness in some 3. Mix the syrup with the remaining
sorbets, although traditional sorbets are made with only granulated sugar. To include ingredients.
corn syrup, decrease the sugar to 11.5 oz (360 g) and add 2 oz (60 g) corn syrup to the
4. If possible, test the sugar concentration
syrup ingredients.
with a hydrometer (saccharometer). The
mixture should be between 16° and 18°
VA R I AT I O N S Baumé, or between 30° and 32.5° Brix. If
the concentration is too low, add a little
The following sorbet variations indicate the quantities of flavor ingredients
more syrup. If it is high, dilute with a little
and additional water to be used in the basic recipe (the third and fourth
water.
ingredients in the ingredient table). If the ingredients require special preparation
instructions, they are indicated. If no special directions are given, simply follow 5. Chill the mixture well, then freeze in an ice
the basic procedure above. Note that most fruit sorbets require strained fruit cream freezer according to the
purée for the smoothest texture. This means fruit pulp that has been puréed and manufacturer’s instructions.
then forced through a sieve.

LEMON OR LIME SORBET PINEAPPLE SORBET

Ingredients U.S. Metric Ingredients U.S. Metric
Lemon or lime zest, grated 1 tbsp 8g Fresh pineapple chunks 1 lb 8 oz 750 g
Lemon or lime juice 8 fl oz 250 mL Water 12 fl oz 375 mL
Water 12 fl oz 375 mL Poach the pineapple in the syrup. Cool. Purée and force
Boil the zest with the syrup. Cool and strain. through a sieve. Add the water. Freeze.

ORANGE OR TANGERINE SORBET BLUEBERRY SORBET

Ingredients U.S. Metric Ingredients U.S. Metric

Orange or tangerine juice 20 fl oz 625 mL Blueberries 2 lb 4 oz 1125.0 g

Water 4 fl oz 125 mL Lemon juice 2 fl oz 60.0 mL

Cinnamon ⁄4 tsp
1
0.4 g (1 mL)
RASPBERRY, STRAWBERRY, MELON, OR KIWI SORBET
Water none none
Ingredients U.S. Metric
Simmer the blueberries, lemon juice, and cinnamon in the
Strained fruit purée 1 lb 12 oz 875 g syrup until the berries are tender. Strain through a fine sieve.
Water none none
BANANA PASSION FRUIT SORBET
Taste the mix before freezing. Some fruit is low in acidity, so a
Ingredients U.S. Metric
little lemon juice may improve the flavor of the mix.
Banana pulp, strained 12 oz 375 g
MANGO SORBET
Passion fruit pulp or juice, 1 lb 500 g
Ingredients U.S. Metric strained
Strained mango purée 1 lb 12 oz 875 g Water none none
Lemon juice 1.5 fl oz 60 mL
Water 8 fl oz 250 mL (continues)
 PREPARING ICE CREAMS AND SORBETS 553

VA R I AT I O N S CO N T I N U E D
RHUBARB SORBET CHOCOLATE SORBET
Ingredients U.S. Metric Ingredients U.S. Metric
Rhubarb 2 lb 1000 g Cocoa powder 1 oz 30 g
Water 1 pt 500 mL Bittersweet or 6 oz 185 g
Cut the rhubarb into 1-in. (2.5-cm) slices. Combine the syrup, semisweet chocolate
rhubarb, and water in a stainless steel saucepan. Bring to a Reduce the quantity of sugar in the syrup to 6 oz (185 g).
simmer and cook until the rhubarb is tender, about 10 Increase the water in the syrup to 1 pt (500 mL). Add the cocoa
minutes. Let the mixture cool, then strain through a fine powder to the syrup ingredients. When the sugar has
strainer. Do not press down on the rhubarb solids, but let the dissolved, remove the syrup from the heat and let it cool
rhubarb stand in the strainer about 30 minutes to let all the slightly. Melt the chocolate. Carefully stir the syrup into the
flavored syrup drain off. This will keep the syrup clear. Measure melted chocolate. Bring to a simmer, stirring constantly, and
the syrup and add enough cold water to bring the volume to simmer 1–2 minutes, until slightly thickened. Chill and freeze.
20 oz (625 mL). Freeze the syrup. Reserve the rhubarb for
another use (for example, add sugar to taste to make a simple MASCARPONE SORBET
rhubarb compote). Ingredients U.S. Metric

WHITE WINE OR CHAMPAGNE SORBET Mascarpone (soft Italian 1 lb 8 oz 750 g

cream cheese)
Ingredients U.S. Metric
Lemon juice 1.5 fl oz 45 mL
White wine or 2.5 pt 1.25 L
Water 10 fl oz 300 mL
champagne
Water 4 fl oz 125 mL Be sure to chill the mixture thoroughly, and do not leave in the
ice cream freezer too long. Overmixing in the churn-freezer may
cause some milk fat to separate and form chunks of butter.

HONEY ICE CREAM

Yield: about 1 qt (1 L), depending on overrun

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Heat the milk and the vanilla bean to the
Milk 8 oz 250 g
scalding point.
Vanilla bean, split 1 1
2. Whip the honey and egg yolks until light.
Honey 4.33 oz 130 g Slowly beat in the hot milk.
Egg yolks 4 oz 120 g 3. Return the mixture to the pan. Cook over
(6 yolks) (6 yolks) low heat, stirring constantly, until thick
Heavy cream 8 oz 250 g enough to coat the back of a spoon.
Remove from the heat and cool. Scrape
the seeds from the vanilla bean and add
them to the mixture. Chill.
4. Add the heavy cream. Freeze in an ice
cream freezer.
554 C H A P T E R 20 FROZEN DESSERTS

DULCE DE LECHE ICE CREAM

Yield: about 31⁄2 pt (1750 mL), depending on overrun

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Heat the milk and the dulce de leche
Milk 1 pt 8 fl oz 750 g
together until the dulce de leche is
Dulce de Leche (p. 276) 1 lb 2 oz 560 g completely dissolved.
(about 14 fl oz) (about 425 mL)
2. Remove from the heat and add the
Heavy cream 6 oz 185 g remaining ingredients.
Vanilla extract 1
⁄4 tsp 1g 3. Chill well. Refrigerate 12 hours to mature
Salt pinch pinch the mix (see p. 549).
4. Freeze in an ice cream freezer.

BITTER CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM

Yield: about 3 qt (3 L), depending on overrun

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Combine the egg yolks and the first
Egg yolks 8 oz (12 yolks) 250 g (12 yolks)
quantity of sugar in a bowl. Whip until
Sugar 6 oz 190 g thick and light.
2. Combine the milk and the second quantity
Milk 2 pt 8 oz 1250 mL
of sugar in a heavy saucepan. Bring to a
Sugar 12 oz 375 g simmer, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
3. Gradually beat the milk into the egg yolk
Bittersweet chocolate 8 oz 250 g
mixture. Set over a hot-water bath and
Cocoa powder, sifted 8 oz 250 g heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture
thickens enough to coat the back of a
Heavy cream 1 pt 500 mL spoon. Immediately remove from the
heat. Let cool until lukewarm.
4. Melt the chocolate and let cool slightly.
5. Gradually stir in the custard mixture.
6. Add the cocoa and beat with a whip until it
is thoroughly mixed in.
7. Stir in the heavy cream.
8. Chill the mixture. Refrigerate 12 hours to
mature the mix (p. 549).
9. Freeze in an ice cream freezer.
 PREPARING ICE CREAMS AND SORBETS 555

RASPBERRY FROZEN YOGURT

Yield: about 3 pt (1.5 L), depending on overrun

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Combine the raspberries, sugar, and water
Raspberries, fresh or frozen, 1 lb 500 g
in a food processor. Process until the
unsweetened
raspberries are puréed and the sugar is
Granulated sugar 8 oz 250 g dissolved.
Water 4 oz 125 g 2. Force the mixture through a fine sieve to
Plain low-fat or whole milk yogurt 12 oz 375 g remove the seeds.
3. Combine with the yogurt and mix until
evenly blended.
4. Chill the mixture well.
5. Freeze in an ice cream freezer.

PISTACHIO GELATO
Yield: about 21⁄2 pt (1250 mL), depending on overrun.

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Grind the pistachios in a food processor
Shelled, unsalted pistachios 8 oz 250 g
until fine. Transfer to a bowl.
Whole milk 2 pt 1L
2. Combine the milk and sugar in a saucepan.
Sugar 7 oz 220 g Bring to a boil. Stir to dissolve the sugar.
3. Pour the milk over the ground pistachios
and stir.
4. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
5. Strain the pistachio mixture in a chinois or
other fine strainer lined with several layers
of cheesecloth (a). Gather up the corners
of the cheesecloth, to make a bag, and
squeeze gently to force the remaining
liquid from the ground nuts (b).
A
6. Chill the liquid again, if necessary, and
then freeze in an ice cream freezer (c).

C
556 C H A P T E R 20 FROZEN DESSERTS

COCONUT SORBET
Yield: about 13⁄4 pt (850 mL), depending on overrun

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Mix together all ingredients.
Frozen coconut purée, thawed 1 lb 480 g
(see variation) 2. Freeze in an ice cream freezer.
Confectioners’ sugar 3.5 oz 100 g
Lime juice, fresh 1.75 oz 50 g
Coconut-flavored rum 2 oz 60 g

VA R I AT I O N
The coconut purée used in this recipe contains 20% sugar. If this product is not
available, use canned, unsweetened coconut milk and adjust the quantities as
follows:
Ingredients U.S. Metric
Canned, unsweetened 14 oz 400 g
coconut milk
Confectioners’ sugar 6 oz 180 g
Lime juice 1.75 oz 50 g
Coconut-flavored rum 2 oz 60 g

CIDER APPLE SORBET

Yield: about 11⁄2 pt (700 mL)

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Heat the sugar and water until the sugar is dissolved.
Sugar 4.5 oz 135 g
2. Peel, core, and chop the apples. Add to the syrup and
Water 4 oz 120 g
cook until tender.
Cooking apples 7 oz 200 g
3. Add the cider. Place in a blender and blend until
Fermented cider 5.5 oz 165 g smooth. Pass through a fine strainer.
4. Cool, then freeze in an ice cream freezer.

COFFEE OR ESPRESSO GRANITA

Yield: about 2 pt 4 fl oz (1125 mL)

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Dissolve the sugar in the coffee.
Sugar 4 oz 125 g
2. Pour the coffee into a hotel pan or similar pan and place
Very strong coffee or espresso, 2 pt 1L
in the freezer.
freshly brewed
3. When the coffee begins to freeze around the edges, stir
with a spoon, fork, or whip. Return to the freezer.
4. Repeat step 3 every 15 or 20 minutes, until the mixture
resembles crushed ice. When finished, it should be
completely frozen but loose, or else it will freeze into a
block when stored.
5. Cover and store in the freezer.
 PREPARING ICE CREAMS AND SORBETS 557

CASSATA ITALIENNE
Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE
1. Using a pastry bag with a plain tip, pipe
Common Meringue (p. 258) 3 oz 90 g the meringue onto a parchment-lined
sheet pan in a rectangle the same size as
Vanilla Ice Cream (p. 550), 7 oz 200 g the top of the mold. Bake at 250°F (120°C)
softened for 1 hour. Cool.
Raspberry jam 1.5–2 oz 50 g 2. Line the mold with plastic film.
Raspberry Sorbet (p. 552), 7 oz 200 g 3. Using a pastry bag with a plain tip, pipe
softened the ice cream into the bottom of the mold
and smooth the surface (using a pastry
Total weight: 1 lb 2 oz 540 g
bag makes it easier to avoid air bubbles).
NOTE: This procedure is for rectangular (loaf) molds approximately 61⁄2 × 31⁄2 in. (17 × 9 cm). Freeze until firm.
It can be modified for any size or shape mold. 4. Spread the raspberry jam onto the ice
cream in an even layer. Freeze until firm.
5. Pipe the raspberry sorbet into the mold
and smooth the surface.
6. Place the baked, cooled meringue on top
of the sorbet and press down gently.
Freeze until firm.
7. Unmold, remove the plastic film, and slice
to serve.
558 C H A P T E R 20 FROZEN DESSERTS

P R E PA R I N G S T I L L - F R O Z E N D E S S E R T S
THE AIR MIXED into ice cream by churn-freezing is important to its texture. Without this air, the
ice cream would be hard and heavy rather than smooth and creamy. Desserts that are still-
frozen—that is, frozen in a container without mixing—also must have air mixed into them in order
to be soft enough to eat. In this case, the air is incorporated before freezing, by mixing in whipped
cream, whipped egg whites, or both.
Thus, still-frozen desserts are closely related to products such as Bavarians, mousses, and
hot soufflés. These products are all given lightness and volume by adding whipped cream or an
egg foam. In fact, many of the same mixtures used for these products are also used for frozen des-
serts. However, because freezing serves to stabilize or solidify frozen desserts, they don’t depend
as much on gelatin or other stabilizers.
Still-frozen desserts include bombes, frozen soufflés, and frozen mousses. In classical the-
ory, each type is made with a different mix; but in actual practice today, many of these mixes are
interchangeable.
A note on the use of alcohol in frozen desserts: Liqueurs and spirits are often used to flavor
these items. However, even a small amount of alcohol lowers the freezing point considerably. If
you find that liqueur-flavored parfaits, bombes, and mousses aren’t freezing hard enough, add
more whipped cream. This will raise the freezing point. In future batches, you might try using less
alcohol.
A high sugar concentration also inhibits freezing. It is important to avoid using too much
sugar in these items to ensure they freeze properly.

Parfaits and Bombes

As noted earlier in the chapter, in North America, the term parfait usually refers to an ice cream
dessert consisting of layers of ice cream and topping in a tall, thin glass. The original parfait, how-
ever, is a dessert still-frozen in a tall, thin mold and unmolded for service. (No doubt the ice cream
parfait is so named because the glass it is served in is similar in shape to a parfait mold.)
The mixture for parfaits consists of three elements: a thick, sweet egg yolk foam, an equal
volume of whipped cream, and flavorings. The parfait mixture is also called a bombe mixture
because it is used in the production of a dessert called a bombe. The bombe is one of the most
elegant frozen desserts, often elaborately decorated with fruits, whipped cream, petits fours secs,
and other items after unmolding. It is made by lining a chilled mold (usually spherical or dome-
shaped) with a layer of ice cream or sherbet and freezing it hard. The center is filled with a bombe
mixture of compatible flavor and then frozen again. Mixtures for frozen mousses can also be used
to fill bombes, as can regular ice cream or sherbet, but a special bombe mixture is the most com-
mon choice.
Two recipes are given below for bombe mixtures. The ingredients and final results are nearly
the same, but the techniques differ. Note that the technique for the first mixture is the same as
that used to make French Buttercream (p. 421). The second recipe requires a sugar syrup of a
specific strength; the recipe for this syrup is also provided.
A procedure for assembling bombes is given, followed by descriptions of a number of classic
bombes.
 PREPARING STILL-FROZEN DESSERTS 559

BASIC BOMBE MIXTURE I

Yield: 11⁄2 qt (1.4 L)

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Dissolve the sugar in the water over high
Sugar 6 oz 1800 g
heat and boil the mixture until it reaches
Water 2 oz 60 g 240°F (115°C). (See pp. 252–253 for
Egg yolks 4 oz (6 yolks) 120 g (6 yolks) information on boiling sugar.)
2. While the syrup is boiling, whip the egg
Flavoring (see variations yolks (using the whip attachment of the
following recipe for Basic mixing machine) until light and foamy.
Bombe Mixture II)
3. With the machine running, slowly pour the
hot syrup into the egg yolks. Continue
Heavy cream 1 pt 480 mL
whipping until the mixture is cool. It should
be very thick and foamy.
4. This mixture will keep, covered and
refrigerated, up to 1 week. When you are
ready to assemble a dessert, proceed with
the next steps.
5. Stir the desired flavorings into the egg yolk
mixture.
6. Whip the cream until it forms soft, not stiff,
peaks. Do not overwhip.
7. Fold the cream into the base mixture. Pour
the result into prepared molds or other
containers and freeze it until firm.

SYRUP FOR BOMBES

Yield: about 11⁄2 qt (1.5 L)

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Combine the water and sugar in a
Sugar 3 lb 1.5 kg
saucepan. Bring the mixture to a boil,
Water 2 lb 1 kg stirring until the sugar is completely
dissolved.
NOTE: Simple syrup of this concentration is used in the Basic Bombe Mixture II (p. 560)
and Frozen Mousse II (p. 563). 2. Remove the syrup from the heat and let it
cool. Store it in a covered container in the
refrigerator.
560 C H A P T E R 20 FROZEN DESSERTS

BASIC BOMBE MIXTURE II

Yield: 11⁄2 qt (1.4 L)

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Whip the egg yolks lightly in a stainless steel
Egg yolks 6 oz (9 yolks) 180 g (9 yolks)
bowl, then gradually beat in the syrup.
Syrup for Bombes 6 fl oz 180 mL
2. Set the bowl over hot water and whip the
(see p. 559)
mixture with a wire whip until it is thick and
creamy, about the consistency of a thick
Flavoring
hollandaise sauce.
(see variations below)
3. Remove the mixture from the heat, set it over
Heavy cream 12 fl oz 360 mL ice, and continue whipping until it is cold.
4. Add the desired flavoring.
5. Whip the cream until it forms soft peaks. Do
not overwhip. Fold it into the egg yolk mixture.
6. Pour the mixture into molds or other
containers. Freeze until firm.

VA R I AT I O N S
To create bombes of different flavors, add the suggested PRALINE
flavorings to either of the egg yolk mixtures in the two Add 21⁄2 oz (75 g) praline paste, softened with a little water, to
preceding recipes before folding in the whipped cream. the yolk mixture.
VANILLA FRUIT (RASPBERRY, STRAWBERRY, APRICOT,
Add 1⁄2–3⁄4 oz (15–22 mL) vanilla extract. PEACH, ETC.)
CHOCOLATE Add up to 8 oz (250 g) fruit purée.
Melt 2 oz (60 g) unsweetened chocolate. Stir in a little simple BOMBE OR PARFAIT WITH FRUIT
syrup to make a thick sauce. Then fold this into the yolk Instead of flavoring the bombe mixture with a fruit purée, add
mixture. (For a stronger chocolate flavor, melt 1–11⁄2 oz (30–45 g) solid fruits cut in small dice to plain or liqueur-flavored bombe
semisweet chocolate with the 2 oz (60 g) unsweetened mixture.
chocolate.)
BOMBE OR PARFAIT WITH NUTS, SPONGE CAKE, OR
LIQUEUR OTHER INGREDIENTS
Add 1–11⁄2 oz (30–45 mL), or to taste, desired liqueur or spirit, Solid ingredients besides fruit may be mixed with a plain or
such as orange liqueur, kirsch, or rum. flavored bombe mixture, including chopped nuts, crumbled
COFFEE almond macaroons, marrons glacés (candied chestnuts), and
diced sponge cake or ladyfingers moistened with liqueur.
Add 1⁄4 oz (8 g) instant coffee dissolved in 1⁄2 oz (15 mL) water.
 PREPARING STILL-FROZEN DESSERTS 561

PROCEDURE: Making Bombes

1. Place the bombe mold in the freezer until very cold. 5. To unmold, dip the mold in warm water for a second,
2. Line the mold with a layer of slightly softened ice cream, wipe the water from the outside of the mold, and turn
using your hand to press it against the sides and smooth out the bombe onto a cold serving plate. (Note: To keep
it. The ice cream layer should be about 1 in. (2 cm) thick the bombe from sliding around on the plate, turn it out
for small molds and up to 11⁄2 in. (4 cm) for large molds. onto a thin sheet of genoise, which acts as a base.)

If the ice cream becomes too soft to stick to the sides, 6. Decorate with whipped cream and appropriate fruits or
place it in the freezer to harden it, then try again. other items.

3. Freeze the mold until the ice cream layer is hard. 7. Serve immediately. Cut into wedges or slices so all
portions are uniform.
4. Fill the mold with bombe mixture, cover, and freeze
until firm.

A Selection of Classic Bombes

BOMBE AFRICAINE BOMBE FORMOSA
Coating: chocolate ice cream Coating: vanilla ice cream
Filling: apricot bombe mixture Filling: bombe mixture flavored with strawberry purée and
mixed with whole strawberries
BOMBE AIDA
Coating: strawberry ice cream BOMBE MOLDAVE
Filling: kirsch-flavored bombe mixture Coating: pineapple sherbet
Filling: bombe mixture flavored with orange liqueur
BOMBE BRESILIENNE
Coating: pineapple sherbet BOMBE SULTANE
Filling: bombe mixture flavored with vanilla and rum and Coating: chocolate ice cream
mixed with diced pineapple Filling: praline bombe mixture

BOMBE CARDINALE BOMBE TUTTI-FRUTTI

Coating: raspberry sherbet Coating: strawberry ice cream or sherbet
Filling: praline vanilla bombe mixture Filling: lemon bombe mixture mixed with candied fruits

BOMBE CEYLON CASSATA NAPOLETANA

Coating: coffee ice cream Cassatas are Italian-style bombes lined with three layers of
Filling: rum-flavored bombe mixture different ice creams and filled with Italian meringue mixed
with various ingredients. The most popular, Cassata
BOMBE COPPELIA Napoletana, is made as follows:
Coating: coffee ice cream 1. Line the mold first with vanilla, then with chocolate, and
Filling: praline bombe mixture finally with strawberry ice cream.
2. Fill with Italian Meringue (p. 259) flavored with vanilla,
BOMBE DIPLOMAT
kirsch, or maraschino and mixed with an equal weight of
Coating: vanilla ice cream diced candied fruits. A little whipped cream may be added
Filling: bombe mixture flavored with maraschino liqueur and to the meringue, if desired.
mixed with candied fruit

BOMBE FLORENTINE
Coating: raspberry sherbet
Filling: praline bombe mixture
562 C H A P T E R 20 FROZEN DESSERTS

Frozen Mousses and Frozen Soufflés

Frozen mousses are light frozen desserts containing whipped cream. Although they are all simi-
lar in character because of their whipped cream content, the bases for them are made in several
ways. Three types of preparation are included here:
• Mousse with Italian meringue base.
• Mousse with syrup and fruit base.
• Mousse with custard base.
The mixture for bombes and parfaits can also be used for mousses.
The simplest method for serving mousse is to pour the mixture into individual serving dishes
and freeze them. The mixture can also be poured into larger molds of various shapes. After
unmolding, cut the mousse into portions and decorate it with whipped cream and appropriate
fruits, cookies, or other items.
KEY POINTS TO REVIEW
Frozen soufflés are simply mousse or bombe mixtures frozen in soufflé dishes or other
❚ How is a basic (French-style) straight-sided dishes. A band of heavy paper or foil, called a collar, is tied around the mold so it
vanilla ice cream made? extends 2 inches (5 cm) or more above the rim of the dish. The mousse or bombe mixture is
❚ How is sorbet made? poured in until it reaches within 1⁄2 inch (12 mm) of the top of this band. After the dessert is frozen,
❚ What are still-frozen the band is removed. The dessert thus looks like a hot soufflé that has risen above its baking dish.
desserts? Give examples and Other items may be incorporated in the frozen soufflé, such as sponge cake, ladyfingers,
explain in general terms how baked meringue, fruits, and so forth. For example, you might pour one-third of the mousse mix-
they are made. ture into the prepared dish, place a japonaise disk (p. 342) on top, pour in another layer of mousse,
❚ What is a bombe? How is it add a second japonaise disk, then fill with the mousse mixture. This technique can also be used
made? with thin sponge cake layers. For further variety, arrange a layer of fruit on top of each genoise
layer before adding more mousse.

FROZEN MOUSSE I (MERINGUE BASE)

Yield: 11⁄2 qt (1.5 L)

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. For the Italian meringue: In a saucepan,
Italian meringue
dissolve the sugar in the water and boil
Sugar 8 oz 250 g the syrup until it reaches 250°F (120°C).
Water 2 oz 60 mL Meanwhile, whip the egg whites until they
Egg whites 4 oz 125 g form soft peaks. Whipping constantly,
slowly pour the hot syrup into the egg
Flavoring (see Note) whites. Continue to whip the meringue
until it is completely cool (unless you are
Heavy cream 12 oz 375 mL flavoring it with liqueur—see next step).
2. Stir or fold in flavoring ingredients. If you
NOTE: Possible flavorings include fruit purées, liqueurs, and chocolate. Use up to are using melted chocolate or a thick fruit
3 oz (90 mL) strong spirits (brandy or dark rum, for example) or 4 oz (125 mL) sweet
purée, stir a little of the meringue into the
liqueur. Use 4 oz (125 g) melted unsweetened chocolate or up to 8 oz (250 g) thick fruit
purée. Specific flavors are suggested in the variations following the basic procedure. flavoring, then fold this into the rest of the
meringue. If you are using a liqueur or
spirit, add it while the meringue is still
VA R I AT I O N S
warm so most of the alcohol evaporates.
The following are a few of many possible flavors for frozen mousse. 3. Whip the cream until it forms soft peaks.
LIQUEUR MOUSSE Fold it into the meringue mixture. Freeze.
Flavor with 3 oz (90 mL) brandy, dark rum, or Calvados, or with 4 oz (125 mL)
sweet liqueur.

CHOCOLATE MOUSSE
Melt 4 oz (125 g) unsweetened chocolate. Stir in a little Syrup for Bombes (p. 559)
to make a thick sauce. Stir some of the meringue into this mixture, then fold the
chocolate mixture into the rest of the meringue. (continues)
 PREPARING STILL-FROZEN DESSERTS 563

VA R I AT I O N S CO N T I N U E D

APRICOT MOUSSE CHESTNUT MOUSSE

Soak 6 oz (188 g) dried apricots in water overnight, then Soften 7 oz (220 g) chestnut purée by blending it with 1 oz
simmer until tender. Drain and purée in a food mill. Fold into (30 mL) dark rum until smooth. Add it to the meringue.
the meringue. If desired, add 1⁄2 oz (15 mL) rum or kirsch.
RASPBERRY OR STRAWBERRY MOUSSE
BANANA MOUSSE Force 8 oz (250 g) fresh or frozen (unsweetened) raspberries or
Purée 8 oz (250 g) very ripe bananas with 1⁄2 oz (15 mL) lemon strawberries through a sieve. Add to the meringue.
juice. Add to meringue.

LEMON MOUSSE
Add 3 oz (90 mL) lemon juice and the grated zest of 1 lemon to
the meringue.

FROZEN MOUSSE II (SYRUP AND FRUIT BASE)

Yield: about 21⁄2 pt (1.25 L)

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Mix the syrup and fruit purée until
Syrup for Bombes (p. 559) 8 oz 250 mL
uniformly blended.
Fruit purée 8 oz 250 mL
2. Whip the cream until it forms soft peaks.
Heavy cream 1 pt 500 mL
3. Fold the cream into the syrup mixture.
4. Pour the mixture into molds or dishes and
freeze.

FROZEN MOUSSE III (CUSTARD BASE)

Yield: about 11⁄2 qt (1.5 L)

Ingredients U.S. Metric

PROCEDURE
Egg yolks 5 oz (7–8 yolks) 150 g (7–8 yolks)
1. Whip the egg yolks with half the sugar until they are
Sugar 8 oz 250 g light and foamy.
Milk 8 oz 250 mL 2. Meanwhile, bring the milk to a boil with the rest of
the sugar.
Flavoring (see step 6)
3. Pour the milk over the yolks, whipping constantly.

Heavy cream 1 pt 500 mL 4. Set the milk and egg mixture over a hot-water bath
and cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture
thickens like crème anglaise (p. 261). Do not
overcook, or the custard will curdle.
5. Cool the mixture, then chill it in the refrigerator or
over ice.
6. Add the desired flavoring. The same flavorings and
quantities may be used as in Frozen Mousse I
(p. 562).
7. Whip the cream and fold it into the custard mixture.
8. Pour the mousse into molds or dishes and freeze.
564 C H A P T E R 20 FROZEN DESSERTS

WHITE CHOCOLATE PARFAIT WITH FLAMBÉED CHERRIES

Yield: 10 parfaits, 3 oz (95 g) each

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Prepare the cherries: Pit the cherries and
Flambéed cherries
place them and the sugar in a saucepan.
Fresh cherries (see Note) 10 oz 300 g Heat gently until liquid begins to cook out
Sugar 2 oz 60 g of the cherries. Continue to heat until the
Vanilla extract 1
⁄2 tsp 2g liquid is almost evaporated. Add the vanilla
and the port. Place over high heat and
Port wine 5 oz 150 g
flambé to burn off the alcohol. Continue to
cook, lightly covered, over low heat until
Baked disks of Chocolate 10 10
the juices are thick and syrupy. Drain the
Meringue (p. 341), 21⁄2 in.
cherries for use in step 7. Reserve the syrup.
(6 cm) in diameter
2. Set 23⁄4-in. (7-cm) ring molds on a tray. Place
Sabayon a disk of baked chocolate meringue in the
base of each.
Sugar 3.67 oz 110 g
3. For the parfait, dissolve the sugar in the
Water 2.5 oz 75 g
water and bring to a boil.
Egg yolks 4 oz 120 g
4. Whip the egg yolks until light and then
gradually whip in the hot syrup. Continue
White chocolate, chopped 5 oz 150 g
whipping until cool.
Heavy cream 12 oz 375 g 5. Melt the white chocolate over a hot-water
bath.
Decoration 6. Quickly mix the chocolate into the egg yolk
Chocolate curls as needed as needed sabayon. Do not overmix, or the sabayon
may fall.
Pistachios as needed as needed
7. Whip the cream and quickly fold it in.
Total weight of parfait mix: 1 lb 9 oz 775 g 8. Without delay, fill the molds about
two-thirds full. Place 6–8 cherries in each
NOTE: Cherries packed in syrup may also be used. Morello cherries (griottes) are especially
good in this preparation. Drain the cherries and proceed as in the basic recipe. one, pushing some of them down into the
mix. (Reserve the remaining cherries and
syrup to serve with the parfaits.) Fill to the
top with parfait mix and level the tops.
Freeze for at least 1 hour or until firm.
9. To serve, unmold by lightly warming the
mold and lifting it off. Top with chocolate
curls and pistachios and a few cherries.
Spoon some of the cherry syrup and a few
more cherries onto the plate.
 QUESTIONS FOR REVIEW 565

ICED LOW-FAT RASPBERRY PARFAIT

Yield: about 3 pt (1.5 L)

Ingredients U.S. Metric PROCEDURE

1. Make an Italian meringue: Dissolve the
Italian Meringue
sugar in the water and boil to 250°F
Sugar 3.5 oz 100 g (120°C). Whip the egg whites to soft peaks.
Water 2.25 oz 65 g While whipping constantly, slowly pour in
Egg whites 3 oz 90 g the hot syrup. Continue whipping until the
meringue is cool.
Raspberries, fresh or frozen 7 oz 200 g 2. Purée the raspberries and force the purée
Plain low-fat yogurt 7 oz 200 g through a sieve to remove the seeds.
3. Whip the yogurt until smooth and mix in
the raspberry purée.
VA R I AT I O N S
4. Fold the cold meringue, one-third at a
Other fruit purées may be substituted for the raspberries. time, into the yogurt mixture.
See page 612 for a serving suggestion. 5. Pour into molds and freeze.

TERMS FOR REVIEW

ice cream sherbet granita parfait

Philadelphia-style ice cream ice overrun bombe
French-style ice cream granité sundae frozen mousse

ice milk gelato coupe frozen soufflé

frozen yogurt sorbetto baked Alaska

QUESTIONS FOR REVIEW

 1. Why do ice cream and sherbet have to be frozen in a special  3. How does alcohol affect the freezing properties of frozen
freezer that mixes the product while it is being frozen? Why is desserts?
it possible to freeze frozen mousses and similar desserts  4. How are still-frozen desserts similar to Bavarians?
without this kind of freezer?
 5. Describe the procedure for making a baked Alaska or Soufflé
 2. How does sugar affect the freezing properties of frozen Surprise.
desserts?
 6. Describe the basic procedure for making bombes.