FABRIC PRINTING

Unit 3: Fabric Printing

The silkscreen is a fine fabric that is stretched into a frame, is left uncovered in the areas which are going to be
printed, whereas the areas which will not be printed are sealed. Printing is done with a squeegee, which is used to
squeeze the ink through the fine meshes of the screen onto paper or materials (Dieter Wanczura, 2009).
Screen printing first appeared in a recognizable form in China during the Song Dynasty (960-1279 AD).
Japan and other Asian countries adopted this method of printing and advanced the craft using it in conjunction with
block printing and hand-applied paints.
 Early in the 1910s, several printers experimenting with photo-reactive chemicals used the well-known
actinic light activated cross-linking or hardening traits of potassium, sodium, or ammonium Chromate and
dichromate chemicals with glues and gelatin compounds. Roy Beck, Charles Peter, and Edward Owens studied and
experimented with chromic acid salt sensitized emulsions for photo-reactive stencils. This trio of developers would
prove to revolutionize the commercial screen printing industry by introducing photo-imaged stencils to the industry,
through the acceptance of this method would take many years. Commercial screen printing now uses sensitizers far
safer and less toxic than dichromate. Currently, there are large selections of pre-sensitized and "user mixed"
sensitized emulsion chemicals for creating photo-reactive stencils.
 Lesson 1: Types of Printing
Printing- Is defined as localized dyeing, coloring, or pigment used locally or discontinuously produce different
designs. Printing is the development of all active designs with Well-defined boundaries of one or more colors are
produced by the creative arrangement of a motif.
Printing is a method in which text and image are replicated, usually using a printing press with ink on paper. It is
often conducted as a large-scale industrial operation and is an integral part of printing publishing and transaction.
Screen printing is a printing technique that uses a woven mesh to support a stencil blocking the ink.
The attached stencil forms open mesh areas that transfer ink onto a substrate as a sharp-edged image. A roller
or squeegee is passed over the panel stencil, pressing or pumping ink through the woven mesh threads in the open
spaces.
 Screen printing is also a stencil printing process in which a pattern is placed on a silkscreen or other fine mesh,
with blank areas filled with an impermeable material, and ink is forced onto the printing surface through the mesh.
It is sometimes referred to as silk screening or serigraphy.
Ever since before 220AD, printing is anything about. The oldest known technique of printing is called woodcut,
which involves carving an image on a wooden surface.
Since then, printing has changed a lot you can choose from a wide variety of
technologically advanced processes, rather than manual wood carving.
Here are seven of the most widely used and best-known types:
 Offset Lithography
 Flexography
 Digital Printing
 Large Format
 Screen Printing
 3D Printing
 LED UV
Currently used in:
· Rough media, e.g. wood, canvas, and towel
· Versatile approach such that books, fax, fax, and more can also be used.
 Offset lithography is also known as offset printing or litho and is a very common mass-production printing
process. It includes printing plates, typically made of aluminum, each of which contains an illustration of the material
to be printed.

Then these plates are moved (offset) onto rollers or rubber blankets before going on to the print media, which
can be any paper you like. The print media does not come into contact with the metal sheets, which increases the
plates' life. As well as this, the rollers or rubber blankets' versatile nature ensures that offset lithography can be used
on any medium with rough surfaces.

Offset lithography is useful for reliably generating high-quality images and can be used in small or high-volume
print jobs. It is also a flexible option as it can be printed on any flat surface, whether it is as smooth as paper or as
rough as a canvas.
Flexography
Currently used in:
· Packaging & labeling
· All items with continuous patterns, for example, wallpaper and gift wrap
The modern type of letterpress printing is flexographic printing and is widely used for printing on rough
surfaces. This printing style uses semi-liquid, quick-drying inks and can be used for large volume jobs.
Flexible photopolymer printing plates are used, wrapped in a web press around rotating cylinders. These inked
plates have a slightly elevated material image on them and are rotated at high velocities to move the image to the
print media.
Flexography is a common option due to its high press speeds, long-run suitability, and ability to print on a wide
array of media including plastic, cellophane, and metallic films.
Currently used in:
* Billboards and signs
{Newsletters, menus, and letters}
Digital printing- is a modern process that incorporates numerous techniques including inkjet printing and laser printing.
Photos are sent directly to the printer in digital printing, using digital files such as PDFs. This removes the need for a
printing plate, which is used in other printing forms such as lithography, which can save time and money (unless you're
printing in greater numbers). Digital printing facilitates fast turnaround and allows organizations to print on request. It's
perfect for small-run jobs too-requests for as little as one print can be made. If you prefer digital printing for the right
work, it can create a cost-effective process that still produces high-quality prints close to the other methods on a larger
scale.
Large Format
Often used for:
 Large signage e.g. billboards, posters, vinyl banners
 Wallpaper and murals
 Floor graphics
 Laminating

Large format printing, as the name may indicate, exists to achieve full print roll width. Great for traditional advertising
media and companies trying to make a big impact on their clients, this printing process allows you a much wider area to
focus on than other methods like digital printing.

Instead of printing on individual sheets, large format printing uses rolls of prints fed incrementally to create one large
sheet of paper.
 Large format printing is the best choice for large print media such as building covers, signs, banners, and murals.
Other methods of printing won't be able to produce material as large. Most companies use large-format media to
create flat objects that can be hung on a wall, but they can be folded or made to stand up freely as well.
Screen Printing
Often used for:
 Printing logos and graphics onto clothes
 Fabric banners
 Posters
Screen printing is a printing process that uses fine material or mesh to move an image onto a different substrate. The
mesh is spread out so that a screen is formed, and ink is pressed against it to print the image successfully. Screen
printing may also be used for paper and metal to print graphics onto clothing and other pieces of fabric.
There's a lot of setup with screen printing involved, so it's better used to print repeat items in bulk. It isn't cost-
effective for orders with limited numbers. But if you need a lot of the same picture it's a very cost-effective printing
process.
3D Printing
Often used for:
• Promotion and marketing freebies
• Novelty items
• Display items
• Toy figurines
3D printing has allowed us to print three-dimensional items since the 1980s and can be a fantastic way to affect the
audience. Digital model data from 3D models or electronic sources, such as an Additive Manufacturing File (AMF), are
used to create the desired artifacts of different shapes and sizes. Mixtures of additive compounds are then fused to
create this 3D material.
3D printers are becoming more sophisticated. And things that have moving parts inside can be printed today. Using a
special plastic material, miniscule layers are written on top of one another after the specifics have been worked out on
a computer program such as CAD.
LED UV
Often used for:
 Newsletters, posters, and leaflets
 Magazines, catalogs, brochures, and prospectuses
 Stationery
Due to its extremely high-quality prints and fast turnaround times, LED UV printing is a process that is becoming
increasingly common among companies. It is a digital printing process that uses UV (ultraviolet) lights to dry the ink
as it is being printed. The drying process, also known as UV curing, is special and distinguishes it from other methods
of printing because it is instantaneous and pre-vents the ink from sinking into the paper. The Outcome? You don't
have to wait to dry up the ink anymore, which saves time and the colors come out looking much clearer and brighter.
 LED UV is environmentally friendly since it requires less power than conventional printing machines and unlike
many other technologies, it is not limited to stock type (printing materials) or any print jobs. Its flexibility means it's
suitable for a wide variety of projects including brochures, catalogs, prospectuses, and posters. Because of its ability
to dry ink instantly and create vibrant, vivid colors, it can transform an ordinary product into a beautiful, high-quality
product that captures attention.
 Lesson 1.1: Fabric Printing
There are several different forms of printing methods for fabrics and they all achieve different results. The type
of textile printing that is used most is based on a variety of factors, from print runs to durability. We've put some of
the most popular or most widely used approaches together, and discussed them below.

1.Fabric Printing Methods. Stamp Printing/Block Printing

This one is pretty much what it says it is. A stamp is created, and that is then used to imprint onto the fabric. Similar
to making potato stamps when you were a child, to create beautiful paintings. Your design is cut into the stamp,
which is then dipped into the ink, and using even pressure, you transfer this from the stamp onto your textile.
Although we’ve come a long way from potato stamping, the level of detail that you can get from stamp printing is
limited, so this is not suitable for the more intricate designs.
Pros

▪ No need for machines

▪ Design is always exact
▪ Great for small runs
▪ Cost-effective

Cons

▪ Not very detailed

▪ Can’t make large quantities
▪ Only one design per stamp
▪ Quality is inconsistent
2. Thermal Transfer Printing/Heat Transfer
Another method is using transfer paper. This is a specialist paper that can be bought from most stationers, as
well as craft shops and even some supermarkets. You can use a standard household printer to print your design onto
the transfer paper, which you can then print onto your chosen fabric by using a standard, household steam iron. This
can be up-scaled and done professionally on larger runs however it will leave a shiny film or surface texture on your
fabric. It is not a permanent method of fabric printing as it can crack and peel with multiple washes, and often fades.
Pros

▪ Can print with a standard printer

▪ No specialist equipment needed
▪ Great for small runs
▪ Easy to print and transfer

Cons

▪ Leaves a surface texture/film

▪ Transfers are single-use
▪ Peels, cracks, and fades
▪ Can suffer from low resolutions
3. Screen Printing
As we move towards the other end of the scale, we start to see methods that are used more and more
commonly within the professional world of textile printing. Silkscreen printing is most common within the business.
This method of printing uses a stencil and a nylon mesh to create the print design. Waterproof material will be used
to block out the spaces that you want your design to appear on, and then those blocked out spaces are flooded with
ink. Due to the way that this method is carried out, you can only use one color for each screen, however, it does
produce fantastic replications.
Pros

▪ Amazing image reproductions

▪ Long-lasting
▪ Ideal for sharp edges and solid blocks of color
▪ Cost-effective for large runs

Cons

▪ One-color per screen – not ideal for multi-colored designs

▪ Very labor-intensive, impractical for small runs
▪ Not great for photos/graduating colors
▪ Creates a lot of waste
4. Dye Sublimation
This is a multi-step process that produces some of the best results of all the fabric printing methods. Designs
are printed onto a thermal transfer paper, known as dye sublimation paper. This is then used to create the print on
the fabric. Both heat and pressure are used to permanently bond the inks to the fibers of the fabric. This leaves your
fabric as soft as it was before it was printed on. The deep infusion technique penetrates specialist water-based inks
deep into the textile, which makes your print permanent. Perfect for intricate details as well as colors.
Pros

▪ Amazing image reproduction that is permanent

▪ Leaves no texture or residue on the fabric at all
▪ Eco-friendly, water based inks don't fade or peel
▪ Suitable for all size print runs

Cons

▪ Not for use on natural fabrics, only on poly textiles

▪ Requires specialist equipment and dyes
▪ More expensive printing method
▪ Requires in-depth knowledge and experience
5. Pigment Printing
Pigment printing is one of the most popular printing techniques for use on cellulose fibres, making them ideal for
use on natural fabrics. It is one of the fabric printing methods which can be used on synthetic materials as well,
which makes it pretty versatile. It is a localized technique which involves applying the dyes to the part of the fabric
that you want your design to be seen. This is done over and over and slowly builds up the colour.
Pros

▪ Bright printing with permanent colour

▪ Easy to do, good colour matching
▪ Cost effective, no high end machinery
▪ High-speed printing technique

Cons

▪ Not applied directly to the fabric

▪ Uses binders which leave a coating on the textile
▪ Colour lessens when repeatedly used over the same material
▪ Dye sits on top of the fibres rather than embeds
6. Reactive Printing
Reactive printing is another of the heat-activated fabric printing methods. It is done by pre-coating the fabrics
and then and using a binder (similar to that of pigment printing) and a printing additive. It prints a dye or wax onto
the fabric, and the heat reaction permanently bonds the image to the textile. Put simply, it is similar to coating the
fabric with the design and then steaming it to create a reaction which bonds the design to the material.
Pros

▪ Creates a chemical bond between the ink and fabric fibers

▪ Works amazingly well on natural textiles
▪ Wash-fast and rub-fast
▪ Outstanding color vibrancy

Cons

▪ Requires pre-treatment
▪ Also requires post-treatment
▪ Not particularly easy to carry out
▪ Not the most cost-effective printing method
Try your own fabric printing online – it’s so much easier than you think.
7.Spray printing
As the name suggests, regulated spraying is used to pass dye to the fabric using specialized sprayers. A spray
gun is used to push the color through screens on the cloth.
8.Engraved Roller printing
This applies to fabric printing in which dye is applied to fabric that is passed through the printing machine's
design engraved rollers. This is how much of the printed fabric is made-the fabric rolls you buy for making clothing.
The benefit of this printing is that the same high-quality print is produced the same way in the whole lot. For
various colors, a separate roller is used.
The fabric is passed through drying and steaming processes to set the dye after it is printed. In a day with a
single printer, you can print as much as 120000 yards of fabric and that with precision and perfection you have in
mind every intricate pattern.
9.Direct to garment digital printing (DTG)
This is the method where a special inkjet printer with special ink is used to print directly from the device onto a
cloth. With a heat press or tunnel dryer, the artwork and the dye are heat-set. The benefit of digital printing directly
to clothing is that you can make any amount of prints at low cost, even small lots, and you get printed on the fabric
with realistic-looking photographs.
The downside is that with repeated washes, the impact will wear off. When used with darker ink colors on
lighter colored fabrics, it is also best. There are also some fabrics for which this printing is not appropriate. Another
drawback is that cost increases exponentially as amounts rise.
10.Printing with inkjet printers
This is a handmade type of direct printing on clothes. To print on fabric parts, an ordinary inkjet printer is used.
For more details, check out the post on inkjet printing on silk.
11.Photo Printing
The fabric is coated with a chemical (liquid photo emulsion) that is sensitive to light in this form of printing, and
then any image can be printed on it.
One such technique is blueprinting, which is used very commonly.
This was a process developed by Sir John Herschel and with this, you will create an impact on your pretreated fabric
of the majority of items. Colored white/light prints are made on.
Essential Materials used for Fabric Printing
1.Screen Printing Frame
As this dries much faster after cleaning than a wooden frame, I will always recommend using an aluminum
frame, because it can be wiped down so that you can use it again sooner. They are a little more costly than wooden
displays, but wood can be susceptible to warping, so a safer investment is aluminum. Often choose as large a frame
as your room requires. For every design, you don't need to use the entire size of your computer, but this gives you
the versatility to make bigger prints if you like. Maybe you have only a tiny printing room and no suitable wash area?
A wonderful approach ideal for any room is to use a tightly stretched muslin (cheesecloth) fabric embroidery hoop,
instead of a full-sized computer.
2.Mesh
It is the woven fabric tightly pulled over the screen printing frame, and with this mesh in place, frames can be
purchased. This was traditionally made from silk, hence the term silk-screen printing. The mesh is normally made of
polyester nowadays. A bit like bed linen, which defines how many threads per inch are in the mesh fabric, mesh
comes in several thread counts. There are fewer strands with a lower mesh count and therefore larger gaps between
them. With a lower mesh count, the ink flows through the screen more quickly, so this is primarily used for less
detailed artwork and printing on rougher or more textured surfaces like cloth.
There is less space for the ink to flow through a higher mesh count, so it is usually used for more complex
artwork and smoother surfaces. I would suggest a mesh count of around 110 for printing onto fabric; as a beginner,
you will find that this is more than appropriate for various textured fabrics that you can use. If you find your designs
specific you might want to try a higher number.
3.Squeegee
A screen printing squeegee is a very firm blade of rubber which is connected to either a handle of metal or
wood. Again, for the same reasons as an aluminum screen, I'd choose to invest in an aluminum one. The squeegee
size is quite important. To ensure a clean print, you need it to pull through the width of your template with a little
overlap, as well as being a few inches narrower than the width of your screen to allow the ink to be forced outward
as you print.
4.Inks
You may use water-based acrylic inks or oil-based Plastinol inks; it is down to personal choice like everything
else. I like using Water based acrylic inks because they have a smoother finish and sink into the cloth, unlike plastisol
ink that sits on top of the cloth, giving the print a plastic feel that is elevated.
You would need to combine this with a textile medium if you are using water-based acrylic ink to make the
paint permanent while heat-setting with an iron. However, you can buy some ready-mixed fabric paints. The benefit
of this is that to get started, you don't need to invest a lot of money, but you will find the color options are more
limited.
5.Parcel Tape-To prevents the paint from leaking through where the mesh reaches the frame you may need to tape
around the inside of the frame with parcel tape. You will keep the same tape on your computer after this has been
finished until it needs to be replaced.
6. Spatulas-You'll want to sweep up any leftover ink back into the pot at the end of your printing session for the next
time; the ink hasn't got dirty and is perfectly appropriate for re-use. To scoop up any leftover ink, you just need to
have a plastic spatula or scraper in your possession.
7.Towels-Printing on cloth can be tricky, with the cloth prone to slipping on the surface of your work. Lay an old
towel or blanket down to prevent this from happening, and Sit on top of your phone. You will discover that this is all
the extra friction you need to hold it all in place.
Common Fabric used in textile printing
1. Cotton fabrics
Absorb the ink more readily than man-made fabrics do. The most common choice for most printers and
customers is cotton and cotton blends, as they are soft and permeable, and organic cotton can be even softer again.
As with any cloth, the print would need to be cured. Before setting it with a drying tunnel, heat press, or flash dry
unit, make sure you give it plenty of time to thoroughly air dry. Cotton may also be dried and even boiled to cure at
low heat.
2. Silk fabrics
For a screen print, silk offers a beautiful flat surface, and the natural fibre absorbs ink
uniformly and efficiently. One thing to note is that less ink will be absorbed the finer the cloth, so expects a subtler
effect than on a thicker base of cotton or wool.
Throughout the printing process, bear in mind that silk can appear to slip around or shrink slightly, so be sure to pre
wash the fabric and use table adhesive to bear the delicate fabric securely in place.
3. Wool fabrics
Wool and wool blends have a screen printing absorbent surface, and the greater the wool count, as with cotton, the
better. The thicker the fabric is usually, the more silkscreen fabric ink will be absorbed into the fabrics and the more
vivid the print will remain over time.Keep this in mind when the fabric is chunkier or textured for informative prints.
For some wool products, you could find that you get a crisper result with a less complex design.
4. Acrylic and polyester fabrics
Man-made fabrics appear to be less porous and permeable than a natural fibre, so
having the screen print ink to stick to them as well as to cotton can be one challenge. Fortunately, a variety of simple
solutions exist. We have a range of products like Permaset synthetic fixer which in polyester and
acrylic blends can significantly improve the adhesive qualities of the ink for a durable result.
5. Jersey fabrics
Usually, Jersey is a combination of cotton and this stretchy fabric appears to print very well. Water-
based fabric paint over plastisol inks, which appear to sit on top of
the fabric and break as the fabric expands and contracts, would have a superior result. Water based inks soak into
the fabric for a softer and superior result. Again, there’s an increased chance of jersey moving in between prints, so
be sure to use a quality adhesive while making your prints.
Usually, Jersey is a combination of cotton and this stretchy fabric appears to print very well. Water-
based fabric paint over plastisol inks, which appear to sit on top of the fabric and break as the fabric expands and co
ntracts, would have a superior result.
 Lesson 1.2: Silkscreen Screen Printing Method
1. Prepare wood frame for screen.

2. Attached the screen, use 100 Mesh Fabric (SILKSCREEN) ideal for water base textile paints, in attaching Silkscreen
attach the two adjacent sides in your wooden frame first then the remaining sides.

3. Pull the screen using thumb and index finger while pushing the wood frame using the three remaining fingers.

4. After finishing the wooden frame with silkscreen apply Photo Emulsion on the screen first, mix the Emulsion and
Sensitizer, the ratio should be 90% Emulsion and 10% of Sensitizer or 9 is to 1. (Note) No measuring cup just
estimate.
5. Stir the mixture thoroughly, then apply the Photo Emulsion on the screen using scoop coater or scooper.

6.Pour a substantial amount of photo Emulsion on the scoop coater and apply it to the screen. Do it in the Dim area,
the photo Emulsion is sensitive to the bright lights, then dry it using an electric fan or blower.

7. Then set up the positive on the screen, the positive that you print mark it on the screen so that when we start the
printing the design will always land at the center of the T. Shirts.

8. Apply or use cooking oil in positive design to make the unprinted part of the paper transparent and because of the
cooking oil the positive will stick to the screen, the Silkscreen will expose, use Sunlight in exposing the screen stencil.
Exposure time into sunlight approximately 11 seconds.
9. Then take a peek on the screen stencil, after wash the Developed screen stencil using the faucet and let the water
run through the screen to soften the unexposed part which is also the design.

10. If we notice that the Emulsion on the design start to fall off, use water hose to wash it quickly wash the screen
stencil thoroughly until the emulsion on the design falls off.