PE6502​ ​Single​ ​Board​ ​Computer

Assembly​ ​Manual

2017-09-17​ ​ ​Putnam​ ​Electronics,

putnamelectronics.com
TABLE​ ​OF​ ​CONTENTS

I.​ ​ ​Introduction​ ​-​ ​PLEASE​ ​READ​ ​(even​ ​if​ ​you​ ​don't​ ​usually​ ​read​ ​manuals!) 2

II.​ ​ ​Getting​ ​Ready 3

III.​ ​ ​Assembly​ ​Steps 9

IV.​ ​ ​You're​ ​done!​ ​ ​ENJOY! 16

A1.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​I​ ​-​ ​Now​ ​that​ ​I've​ ​built​ ​this​ ​thing,​ ​how​ ​do​ ​I​ ​actually​ ​use​ ​it? 17

A2.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​II​ ​-​ ​Schematics 18

A3.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​III​ ​-​ ​Bill​ ​of​ ​Materials 19

A4.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​IV​ ​-​ ​Soldering​ ​Tips​ ​for​ ​Newbs 22

A5.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​V​ ​-​ ​What​ ​to​ ​do​ ​if​ ​for​ ​some​ ​reason​ ​it​ ​doesn't​ ​work? 24

A6.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​VI​ ​-​ ​Interesting​ ​Tidbits​ ​About​ ​The​ ​Chips 25

A7.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​VII​ ​-​ ​How​ ​to​ ​"flash"​ ​the​ ​Propeller​ ​SW 27

A8.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​VIII​ ​-​ ​Where​ ​To​ ​Get​ ​More​ ​Info/Important​ ​Links 28

A9.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​VIV​ ​-​ ​Acknowledgements 29

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I.​ ​ ​Introduction​ ​-​ ​PLEASE​ ​READ​ ​(even​ ​if​ ​you​ ​don't
usually​ ​read​ ​manuals!)
First​ ​off,​ ​THANK​ ​YOU​​ ​for​ ​purchasing​ ​your​ ​PE6502​ ​kit!

This​ ​computer​ ​was​ ​designed​ ​from​ ​a​ ​clean​ ​sheet​ ​of​ ​paper,​ ​and​ ​based​ ​on​ ​a​ ​65C02
microprocessor.​ ​ ​A​ ​design​ ​goal​ ​was​ ​to​ ​have​ ​this​ ​computer​ ​be​ ​very​ ​much​ ​like​ ​an​ ​Apple​ ​1,​ ​but​ ​to
have​ ​some​ ​more​ ​sophisticated​ ​capabilities​ ​(not​ ​unlike​ ​an​ ​Apple​ ​II/Atari​ ​800/Commodore​ ​64.)​ ​ ​It
was​ ​also​ ​a​ ​design​ ​goal​ ​to​ ​have​ ​these​ ​features​ ​without​ ​requiring​ ​any​ ​custom​ ​chips,​ ​and​ ​with​ ​a
low​ ​parts​ ​count​ ​and​ ​small​ ​footprint.​ ​ ​Ultimately,​ ​the​ ​computer​ ​must​ ​be​ ​useful,​ ​easy​ ​to​ ​assemble,
and​ ​inexpensive​ ​to​ ​buy.​ ​ ​I​ ​believe​ ​we've​ ​met​ ​the​ ​target​ ​requirements;​ ​The​ ​computer​ ​can​ ​be
used​ ​as-is​ ​out​ ​of​ ​the​ ​box,​ ​can​ ​be​ ​expanded​ ​by​ ​customizing/evolving​ ​the​ ​onboard​ ​Parallax
Propeller​ ​firmware,​ ​and​ ​also​ ​by​ ​adding​ ​plug-in​ ​expansion​ ​boards.​ ​ ​I​ ​truly​ ​believe​ ​that,​ ​the​ ​more
people​ ​that​ ​use​ ​this​ ​platform,​ ​the​ ​more​ ​that​ ​we'll​ ​discover​ ​it​ ​can​ ​do!

Before​ ​you​ ​move​ ​ahead​ ​with​ ​the​ ​construction,​ ​please​ ​consider​ ​this:​ ​ ​You've​ ​paid​ ​good,
hard-earned​ ​money​ ​for​ ​this​ ​kit.​ ​ ​So​ ​prior​ ​to​ ​heating​ ​up​ ​your​ ​soldering​ ​iron,​ ​please​ ​do​ ​the
following​ ​(I​ ​think​ ​this​ ​will​ ​pay​ ​big​ ​dividends​ ​with​ ​the​ ​final​ ​assembly!):

A. Print​ ​this​ ​manual,​ ​or​ ​have​ ​it​ ​in​ ​your​ ​favorite​ ​e-Reader/tablet​ ​device.
B. Grab​ a ​ ​ ​delicious​ ​beverage​ ​of​ ​choice​ ​(some​ ​folks​ ​like​ ​herbal​ ​tea,​ ​some​ ​like​ ​craft​ ​beer,
others​ ​water..)
C. Sit​ ​in​ ​a​ ​comfortable​ ​chair,​ ​with​ ​your​ ​distractions​ ​minimized,​ ​and...
D. Read​ ​through​ ​this​ ​entire​ ​manual.​ ​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​you​ ​understand​ ​and​ ​can​ ​visualize​ ​the
assembly​ ​steps,​ ​so​ ​by​ ​the​ ​time​ ​you're​ ​actually​ ​doing​ ​the​ ​soldering/assembly,​ ​you'll​ ​know
what​ ​part​ ​goes​ ​where,​ ​which​ ​part​ ​is​ ​which,​ ​special​ ​considerations​ ​for​ ​each​ ​part,​ ​what
step​ ​will​ ​be​ ​next,​ ​etc.
E. Get​ ​excited!​ ​ ​Your​ ​kit​ ​is​ ​supplied​ ​with​ ​the​ ​highest​ ​quality​ ​components,​ ​and​ ​when​ ​you’re
done,​ ​your​ ​PE6502​ ​will​ ​be​ ​an​ ​AWESOME​ ​computer!

And​ ​now,​ ​let's​ ​get​ ​on​ ​to​ ​building​ ​your​ ​PE6502!

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II.​ ​ ​Getting​ ​Ready
This​ ​section​ ​is​ ​comprised​ ​of​ ​four​ ​parts:​ ​ ​Taking​ ​inventory​ ​of​ ​what​ ​parts​ ​you​ ​should​ ​have
received​ ​in​ ​your​ ​kit,​ ​making​ ​sure​ ​you​ ​have​ ​other​ ​necessary​ ​items​ ​to​ ​use​ ​your​ ​PE6502,​ ​and​ ​what
tools​ ​&​ ​supplies​ ​you'll​ ​need​ ​to​ ​assemble​ ​your​ ​PE6502.​ ​ ​Finally,​ ​the​ ​last​ ​part​ ​will​ ​provide​ ​some
information​ ​on​ ​how​ ​to​ ​install​ ​electronic​ ​components;​ ​how​ ​to​ ​determine​ ​resistor​ ​values,
capacitor/LED/Diode/Resistor​ ​Pack​ ​polarity,​ ​and​ ​how​ ​to​ ​find​ ​pin​ ​one​ ​on​ ​a​ ​microchip.

A. Take​ ​a​ ​parts​ ​inventory!​​ ​ ​Let's​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​you've​ ​got​ ​what​ ​you're​ ​supposed​ ​to​ ​have!
Simply​ ​print​ ​out​ ​the​ ​Bill​ ​of​ ​Materials​ ​in​ ​the​ ​appendix​ ​section​ ​in​ ​this​ ​manual​ ​(if​ ​you've​ ​not
already​ ​printed​ ​the​ ​manual),​ ​and​ ​place​ ​a​ ​check​ ​mark​ ​on​ ​each​ ​part,​ ​once​ ​you​ ​have
verified​ ​it's​ ​in​ ​your​ ​kit.​ ​ ​Contact​ ​us​ ​if​ ​anything​ ​is​ ​missing​ ​(we​ ​triple-check,​ ​so​ ​nothing
should​ ​be​ ​missing!)​ ​and​ ​we'll​ ​send​ ​the​ ​missing​ ​part​ ​out​ ​immediately.

B. Other​ ​necessary​ ​items​​ ​(not​ ​included​ ​in​ ​this​ ​kit),​ ​so​ ​you​ ​can​ ​use​ ​your​ ​PE6502:
● "Wall-wart"​ ​power​ ​adaptor.​ ​ ​You​ ​need​ ​one​ ​that​ ​is:​ ​AC​ ​to​ ​9v​ ​DC,​ ​300-1000ma,
tip-positive,​ ​and​ ​outputs​ ​to​ ​a​ ​2.1mm​ ​power​ ​jack.
● PS/2​ ​keyboard.​ ​ ​While​ ​some​ ​USB​ ​keyboard​ ​and​ ​PS/2​ ​adaptors​ ​*might*​ ​work,​ ​it's
probably​ ​cheaper/easier​ ​to​ ​just​ ​get​ ​a​ ​PS/2​ ​keyboard.
● composite​ ​video​ ​cable
● video​ ​monitor​ ​(or​ ​TV!)​ ​with​ ​a​ ​composite​ ​video​ ​input
● DB9​ ​serial​ ​cable​ ​-or-​ ​DB9​ ​to​ ​USB​ ​serial​ ​converter/adapter.

**NOTE**​ ​If​ ​you​ ​have​ ​a​ ​64bit​ ​Windows​ ​computer:​ ​ ​We​ ​STRONGLY​ ​recommend​ ​you​ ​purchase​ ​a​ ​legitimate​ ​US
Converters​ ​(www.usconverters.com)​ ​USB​ ​serial​ ​adapter,​ ​like​ ​the​ ​model​ ​XS880.

I​ ​have​ ​tested​ ​with​ ​this​ ​exact​ ​model,​ ​and​ ​the​ ​serial​ ​communication​ ​has​ ​been​ ​bullet-proof!​ ​ ​This​ ​is​ ​after​ ​I​ ​tried​ ​using​ ​a
cheap/low​ ​quality/possibly​ ​counterfeit​ ​"prolific​ ​PL2303​ ​clone"​ ​off​ ​ebay,​ ​and​ ​it​ ​would​ ​randomly​ ​reset​ ​the​ ​PE6502,​ ​would
lock​ ​up​ ​my​ ​Windows​ ​computer​ ​if​ ​I​ ​unplugged​ ​it,​ ​and​ ​caused​ ​MUCH​ ​frustration.

I​ ​have​ ​no​ ​connection​ ​with​ ​US​ ​Converters,​ ​I​ ​am​ ​just​ ​a​ ​happy​ ​customer,​ ​and​ ​have​ ​verified​ ​that​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​serial
communications​ ​work​ ​as​ ​they​ ​should​ ​when​ ​using​ ​this​ ​serial​ ​interface.​ ​ ​It​ ​is​ ​based​ ​off​ ​the​ ​FT232RL​ ​chip,​ ​and​ ​they​ ​have
other​ ​(cheaper)​ ​models​ ​also​ ​based​ ​off​ ​this​ ​same​ ​chip,​ ​that​ ​will​ ​probably​ ​work​ ​just​ ​as​ ​well.

● a​ ​host​ ​computer,​ ​for​ ​loading​ ​from,​ ​saving​ ​to,​ ​or​ ​serial​ ​I/O​ ​use​ ​(instead​ ​of​ ​using​ ​a
keyboard​ ​and​ ​monitor).​ ​ ​I​ ​personally​ ​use​ ​a​ ​Windows​ ​8.1​ ​laptop.

**OPTIONAL**​ ​Items​​ ​(not​ ​included​ ​in​ ​this​ ​kit):

● A​ ​power​ ​switch​ ​may​ ​be​ ​wired​ ​to​ ​the​ ​SW1​ ​terminals​ ​located​ ​at​ ​the​ ​top-left​ ​of​ ​the​ ​PE6502
PC​ ​board,​ ​in​ ​the​ ​5v​ ​power​ ​supply​ ​section.​ ​ ​This​ ​would​ ​allow​ ​for​ ​a​ ​way​ ​to​ ​turn​ ​the​ ​PE6502
computer​ ​on​ ​and​ ​off​ ​without​ ​having​ ​to​ ​unplug​ ​the​ ​power​ ​supply.

**RECOMMENDED**​ ​Items​​ ​(not​ ​included​ ​in​ ​this​ ​kit)​:

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● some​ ​sort​ ​of​ ​enclosure​ ​and/or​ ​board​ ​standoffs,​ ​so​ ​you​ ​can​ ​safely​ ​use​ ​your​ ​PE6502
without​ ​risk​ ​of​ ​damaging​ ​it.​ ​ ​Ideally​ ​this​ ​enclosure​ ​will​ ​feature​ ​a​ ​metal​ ​plate​ ​back,​ ​that​ ​can
be​ ​screwed​ ​into​ ​the​ ​cooling​ ​tabs​ ​of​ ​the​ ​voltage​ ​regulators.​ ​ ​Otherwise,​ ​you​ ​may​ ​want​ ​to
add​ ​a​ ​screw-on​ ​heat-sink​ ​to​ ​the​ ​5​ ​volt​ ​voltage​ ​regulator.
● some​ ​way​ ​to​ ​capture​ ​a​ ​picture​ ​of​ ​your​ ​assembled​ ​and​ ​running​ ​PE6502,​ ​to​ ​send​ ​to​ ​us.
We'll​ ​put​ ​you​ ​on​ ​our​ ​website,​ ​so​ ​others​ ​can​ ​see!

C. Tools​ ​needed​​ ​(for​ ​assembly):

● PATIENCE!!!​ ​ ​Just​ ​take​ ​your​ ​time,​ ​and​ ​enjoy​ ​the​ ​build!​ ​ ​It​ ​will​ ​work,​ ​I​ ​promise!​ ​ ​(If​ ​it
doesn't​ ​work​ ​for​ ​some​ ​reason,​ ​check​ ​the​ ​Appendix​ ​section​ ​entitled​ ​"What​ ​to​ ​do​ ​if​ ​for
some​ ​reason​ ​it​ ​doesn't​ ​work?"​ ​for​ ​help.)
● temperature​ ​regulated​ ​soldering​ ​iron
● soldering​ ​iron​ ​holder
● soldering​ ​iron​ ​tip​ ​cleaner
● good​ ​solder​ ​(60/40,​ ​thin!​ ​.032​ ​inch​ ​diameter),​ ​rosin​ ​flux​ ​core

**NOTE**​ ​Search​ ​for​ ​Kester,​ ​made​ ​in​ ​USA​ ​solder.​ ​ ​It​ ​is​ ​"the​ ​good​ ​stuff"

● desoldering​ ​braid,​ ​and/or​ ​desoldering​ ​pump

● digital​ ​multi​ ​meter​ ​-​ ​one​ ​that​ ​can​ ​test​ ​for​ ​continuity,​ ​measure​ ​voltage,​ ​measure​ ​resistance
● "nippy​ ​pliers"​ ​wire​ ​and​ ​lead​ ​cutters
● needle​ ​nose​ ​pliers​ ​-​ ​that​ ​can​ ​be​ ​used​ ​to​ ​neatly​ ​bend​ ​leads​ ​if​ ​needed​ ​for​ ​"pro"​ ​looking
assembly​ ​of​ ​circuit​ ​board
● masking​ ​tape​ ​(to​ ​hold​ ​sockets​ ​in​ ​while​ ​you​ ​solder​ ​them)
● Rubbing​ ​alcohol,​ ​paper​ ​towels,​ ​Q-tips,​ ​and​ ​a​ ​clean​ ​(disposable)​ ​lint-free​ ​cloth
● a​ ​good​ ​bench!

**NOTE**​ ​What​ ​makes​ ​a​ ​“good​ ​bench”?​ ​ ​A​ ​good​ ​bench​ ​is​ ​one​ ​that​ ​is​ ​somewhere​ ​out​ ​of​ ​the​ ​vicinity​ ​of​ ​"family
space",​ ​nowhere​ ​near​ ​food,​ ​pet​ ​bedding,​ ​kids,​ ​other​ ​people,​ ​etc.​ ​ ​You​ ​don't​ ​want​ ​this​ ​area​ ​"re-configured"​ ​while
you're​ ​busy​ ​elsewhere,​ ​in​ ​the​ ​middle​ ​of​ ​your​ ​project.​ ​ ​Also,​ ​this​ ​protects​ ​others​ ​from​ ​fumes,​ ​other​ ​hazards.​ ​ ​The
bench​ ​must​ ​also​ ​have​ ​good​ ​light!​ ​ ​This​ ​makes​ ​a​ ​HUGE​ ​difference!​ ​ ​The​ ​bench​ ​must​ ​have​ ​good​ ​ventilation!
Take​ ​good​ ​care​ ​of​ ​yourself,​ ​human!

● ​ ​protective​ ​eyewear.​ ​ ​It​ ​is​ ​extremely​ ​rare,​ ​but​ ​solder​ ​can​ ​pop​ ​off​ ​what​ ​you're​ ​working​ ​on,
and​ ​could​ ​potentially​ ​go​ ​in​ ​your​ ​eye.​ ​ ​Your​ ​eyes​ ​are​ ​important​ ​to​ ​you!​ ​ ​Protective
eyewear​ ​=​ ​cheap​ ​insurance.​ ​ ​Just​ ​do​ ​it!
● a​ ​place​ ​you​ ​can​ ​clean​ ​up​ ​after​ ​assembling/soldering.

**NOTE**​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​eat​ ​while​ ​soldering!​ ​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​drink​ ​while​ ​soldering!​ ​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​touch​ ​your​ ​face,​ ​pick​ ​your
nose,​ ​etc.​ ​while​ ​soldering.​​ ​ ​Wash​ ​your​ ​hands​ ​and​ ​face​ ​well​ ​with​ ​soap​ ​and​ ​water​ ​after​ ​soldering.​ ​ ​ ​ ​Again,​ ​take
good​ ​care​ ​of​ ​yourself,​ ​human!

**OPTIONAL**​ ​Tools​ ​(If​ ​you're​ ​going​ ​"all-out",​ ​these​ ​items​ ​would​ ​be​ ​nice,​ ​but​ ​are
certainly​ ​not​ ​required):
● desoldering​ ​station

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● logic​ ​probe
● magnification
● an​ ​empty​ ​egg​ ​container,​ ​for​ ​use​ ​with​ ​organizing/categorizing​ ​parts​ ​for​ ​your​ ​build.
Alternatively,​ ​sandwich​ ​baggies​ ​work​ ​well​ ​too!
● music​ ​of​ ​some​ ​kind​ ​while​ ​you​ ​work

**RECOMMENDED**​​ ​if​ ​you're​ ​new​ ​to​ ​this:

If​ ​you're​ ​new​ ​to​ ​soldering​ ​on​ ​boards,​ ​get​ ​some​ ​spare​ ​resistors,​ ​chip​ ​sockets,​ ​and​ ​some
other​ ​parts,​ ​along​ ​with​ ​a​ ​solderable​ ​copper​ ​pad​ ​"perf-board"​ ​to​ ​practice​ ​with.​ ​ ​These​ ​can
be​ ​used,​ ​bought​ ​as​ ​a​ ​"grab​ ​bag"​ ​at​ ​an​ ​electronics​ ​parts​ ​store,​ ​etc.​ ​ ​This​ ​way​ ​(along​ ​with
reading​ ​the​ ​appendix​ ​section​ ​with​ ​soldering​ ​tips​ ​for​ ​newbs!)​ ​you​ ​can​ ​practice​ ​soldering
before​ ​you​ ​put​ ​together​ ​your​ ​new​ ​computer.

D. Miscellaneous​ ​notes​ ​on​ ​electronics​ ​components​​ ​(to​ ​aid​ ​in​ ​installation):

● Resistors:
○ Resistor​ ​values​ ​are​ ​shown​ ​on​ ​the​ ​resistor​ ​body​ ​by​ ​colored​ ​bands.​ ​ ​The​ ​following
chart​ ​shows​ ​how​ ​to​ ​compute​ ​the​ ​value​ ​of​ ​a​ ​resistor​ ​based​ ​on​ ​the​ ​bands​ ​it​ ​has:

○ For​ ​example,​ ​a​ ​resistor​ ​that​ ​shows​ ​Red,​ ​Red,​ ​Black,​ ​Gold,​ ​is​ ​a​ ​220​ ​Ohm,​ ​5%
tolerance.
○ Resistors​ ​are​ ​NOT​ ​polarized-​ ​it​ ​doesn’t​ ​matter​ ​what​ ​direction​ ​you​ ​install​ ​them​ ​in,
however,​ ​it​ ​will​ ​look​ ​more​ ​professional​ ​if​ ​you​ ​install​ ​them​ ​all​ ​in​ ​the​ ​same
orientation​ ​(for​ ​example,​ ​with​ ​the​ ​tolerance​ ​bands​ ​all​ ​on​ ​the​ ​right​ ​side.)

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● Capacitors:
○ Capacitors​ ​that​ ​are​ ​polarity​ ​sensitive​ ​are​ ​often​ ​marked​ ​with​ ​a​ ​stripe,​ ​an​ ​arrow,
and/or​ ​a​ ​plus​ ​sign​ ​to​ ​indicate​ ​polarity.

○ The​ ​plus​ ​sign​ ​identifies​ ​the​ ​positive​ ​lead,​ ​while​ ​an​ ​arrow​ ​or​ ​stripe​ ​identifies​ ​the
negative​ ​lead.
○ Additionally,​ ​the​ ​positive​ ​lead​ ​is​ ​usually​ ​longer​ ​on​ ​a​ ​radial​ ​(both​ ​leads​ ​come​ ​out​ ​of
the​ ​same​ ​side)​ ​capacitor.

● LEDs:
○ Polarity​ ​for​ ​LEDs​ ​can​ ​usually​ ​be​ ​determined​ ​by​ ​looking​ ​at​ ​the​ ​lead​ ​length.

○ The​ ​longer​ ​lead​ ​is​ ​the​ ​positive​ ​(anode)​ ​lead.​ ​ ​The​ ​shorter​ ​lead​ ​is​ ​the​ ​negative
(cathode)​ ​lead.
○ Also,​ ​a​ ​machined​ ​flat​ ​spot​ ​on​ ​the​ ​edge​ ​of​ ​the​ ​LED​ ​indicates​ ​the​ ​negative​ ​side.

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● Diodes:
○ Polarity​ ​for​ ​a​ ​diode​ ​can​ ​be​ ​determined​ ​by​ ​looking​ ​for​ ​a​ ​band​ ​marking​ ​on​ ​the
diode​ ​close​ ​to​ ​one​ ​side.​ ​ ​This​ ​marks​ ​the​ ​negative​ ​(cathode)​ ​lead.

● Microchips​ ​(also​ ​called​ ​Integrated​ ​Circuits,​ ​or​ ​ICs​ ​for​ ​short):

○ Pin​ ​1​ ​on​ ​an​ ​IC​ ​will​ ​typically​ ​be​ ​marked​ ​in​ ​one​ ​or​ ​both​ ​of​ ​two​ ​ways;
■ with​ ​a​ ​dot​ ​on​ ​the​ ​top​ ​of​ ​the​ ​case​ ​at​ ​that​ ​pin.
■ with​ ​a​ ​half-moon​ ​shape​ ​on​ ​the​ ​top​ ​edge,​ ​so​ ​when​ ​you​ ​orient​ ​the​ ​chip​ ​with
this​ ​shape​ ​at​ ​the​ ​top,​ ​pin​ ​one​ ​is​ ​located​ ​at​ ​the​ ​top-left​ ​pin.

○ The​ ​pins​ ​on​ ​an​ ​IC​ ​are​ ​numbered​ ​counterclockwise​ ​starting​ ​at​ ​pin​ ​1,​ ​and​ ​moving
around​ ​the​ ​chip​ ​until​ ​the​ ​last​ ​pin,​ ​across​ ​from​ ​pin​ ​one​ ​on​ ​the​ ​other​ ​side.

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● Resistor​ ​Packs:
○ Pin​ ​1​ ​on​ ​a​ ​resistor​ ​pack​ ​will​ ​be​ ​marked​ ​with​ ​either​ ​a​ ​band,​ ​or​ ​a​ ​dot.

○ Ultimately,​ ​it​ ​is​ ​this​ ​pin​ ​1​ ​that​ ​connects​ ​the​ ​common​ ​lead​ ​of​ ​the​ ​resistors​ ​in​ ​the
pack.​ ​ ​All​ ​the​ ​other​ ​leads​ ​are​ ​the​ ​other​ ​side​ ​of​ ​each​ ​on-board​ ​resistor.

**NOTE**​ ​ ​In​ ​the​ ​assembly​ ​section​ ​of​ ​this​ ​manual,​ ​there​ ​will​ ​be​ ​directions​ ​for​ ​how​ ​to​ ​place​ ​a​ ​polarized
part.​ ​ ​The​ ​convention​ ​used​ ​in​ ​this​ ​manual​ ​will​ ​be​ ​in​ ​the​ ​following​ ​format:

■ C25​ ​(10uF)​ ​-​ ​Top-left​ ​of​ ​MAX232​ ​(-​ ​lead​ ​to​ ​bottom​ ​pad)

In​ ​the​ ​example​ ​above,​ ​we​ ​are​ ​told​ ​that​ ​Capacitor​ ​25​ ​(located​ ​at​ ​top-left​ ​of​ ​the​ ​MAX232​ ​chip),​ ​is​ ​oriented
so​ ​that​ ​the​ ​negative​ ​marked​ ​lead​ ​is​ ​placed​ ​in​ ​the​ ​bottom​ ​pad​ ​through-hole.

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III.​ ​ ​Assembly​ ​Steps
During​ ​assembly,​ ​we​ ​will​ ​refer​ ​to​ ​the​ ​orientation​ ​of​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​circuit​ ​board​ ​as​ ​follows:​ ​ ​We​ ​will
call​ ​the​ ​component​ ​side​ ​the​ ​side​ ​that​ ​has​ ​the​ ​white​ ​silkscreened​ ​labels​ ​(and​ ​the​ ​name​ ​“PE6502
Single​ ​Board​ ​Computer”)​ ​on​ ​it.​ ​ ​As​ ​you​ ​view​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​circuit​ ​board​ ​from​ ​top-down,​ ​viewing
the​ ​component​ ​side,​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​name​ ​“PE6502​ ​Single​ ​Board​ ​Computer”​ ​is​ ​right-side​ ​up,​ ​in
your​ ​normal​ ​reading​ ​perspective.​ ​ ​With​ ​the​ ​board​ ​in​ ​this​ ​configuration,​ ​we’ll​ ​refer​ ​to​ ​the
bottom-left​ ​of​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board​ ​the​ ​area​ ​where​ ​this​ ​name​ ​is.​ ​ ​The​ ​left​ ​side​ ​is​ ​where​ ​the​ ​expansion
header​ ​is.​ ​ ​The​ ​top-left​ ​is​ ​where​ ​the​ ​DC​ ​Power​ ​jack​ ​is.​ ​ ​The​ ​top​ ​is​ ​where​ ​the​ ​PWR​ ​LED​ ​is,​ ​and
the​ ​TV​ ​Out​ ​jack​ ​is​ ​at​ ​the​ ​top​ ​as​ ​well.​ ​ ​The​ ​top-right​ ​is​ ​where​ ​the​ ​3940​ ​voltage​ ​regulator​ ​is.​ ​ ​The
right-side​ ​has​ ​the​ ​propeller​ ​plug​ ​(and​ ​the​ ​Propeller​ ​chip​ ​itself​ ​is​ ​in​ ​this​ ​area.)​ ​ ​Finally,​ ​the
bottom-right​ ​is​ ​where​ ​the​ ​serial​ ​header​ ​section​ ​is​ ​located.

A. Organize​ ​all​ ​kit​ ​parts,​ ​test​ ​and​ ​categorize​ ​resistors.

● Group​ ​together​ ​resistors​ ​of​ ​like​ ​value,​ ​and​ ​place​ ​a​ ​label​ ​identifying​ ​each​ ​value
group​ ​with​ ​these​ ​resistors.​ ​ ​This​ ​will​ ​greatly​ ​simplify​ ​assembly​ ​later!​ ​ ​Use​ ​the
color​ ​chart​ ​in​ ​part​ ​D​ ​of​ ​the​ ​Getting​ ​Ready​ ​section​ ​of​ ​this​ ​manual​ ​to​ ​help​ ​you
identify​ ​values,​ ​and​ ​double​ ​check​ ​values​ ​with​ ​a​ ​multimeter​ ​to​ ​be​ ​sure​ ​you’ve
properly​ ​identified​ ​and​ ​categorized​ ​all​ ​resistors.
● Group​ ​together​ ​all​ ​capacitors​ ​of​ ​the​ ​same​ ​type.​ ​ ​For​ ​example,​ ​there​ ​will​ ​be​ ​15
.1uF​ ​capacitors;​ ​ ​11​ ​for​ ​decoupling​ ​capacitors,​ ​and​ ​4​ ​for​ ​other​ ​purposes.
● The​ ​Bill​ ​of​ ​Materials​ ​lists​ ​the​ ​detailed​ ​part​ ​information​ ​for​ ​each​ ​PC​ ​Board
identifier.
For​ ​example,​ ​R1​ ​on​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​Board​ ​is​ ​a​ ​220​ ​ohm​ ​resistor.​ ​ ​U1​ ​is​ ​the​ ​65C02​ ​CPU​ ​(and​ ​40
pin​ ​socket)
B. Clean​ ​the​ ​cpu​ ​board​ ​prior​ ​to​ ​assembly.
Before​ ​you​ ​start​ ​soldering,​ ​ensure​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​Board​ ​is​ ​clean​ ​and​ ​free​ ​of​ ​contaminants.​ ​ ​Use
a​ ​paper​ ​towel​ ​soaked​ ​with​ ​some​ ​rubbing​ ​alcohol,​ ​to​ ​wipe-off​ ​both​ ​sides​ ​of​ ​the​ ​PE6502
PC​ ​board,​ ​and​ ​then​ ​let​ ​it​ ​dry.
C. Assemble​ ​the​ ​power​ ​supply,​ ​and​ ​test​ ​voltages.
The​ ​power​ ​supply​ ​is​ ​split​ ​across​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​circuit​ ​board​ ​into​ ​two​ ​locations:
● The​ ​main​ ​5​ ​volt​ ​section​ ​is​ ​at​ ​the​ ​top-left​ ​of​ ​the​ ​circuit​ ​board,​ ​and​ ​consists​ ​of​ ​these
components:
○ JP1​ ​(DC​ ​Power​ ​Connector)
○ SW1​ ​(no​ ​parts​ ​here,​ ​this​ ​is​ ​where​ ​you​ ​can​ ​install​ ​an​ ​optional​ ​power
switch.​ ​ ​If​ ​you​ ​don’t​ ​want​ ​to​ ​use​ ​this,​ ​simply​ ​short​ ​the​ ​bottom​ ​two​ ​SW1
pads​ ​to​ ​the​ ​top​ ​two​ ​SW1​ ​pads​ ​with​ ​leftover​ ​component​ ​leads​ ​and​ ​solder.)
○ D1​ ​diode​ ​(this​ ​is​ ​a​ ​polarized​ ​part!​ ​ ​Please​ ​be​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​stripe​ ​on​ ​the​ ​diode
matches​ ​the​ ​stripe​ ​on​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board​ ​(i.e.,​ ​it​ ​is​ ​installed​ ​on​ ​the​ ​right​ ​side)
○ C21​ ​(100uF)​ ​-​ ​capacitor​ ​(-​ ​lead​ ​to​ ​bottom​ ​pad)​ ​left​ ​of​ ​the​ ​7805
○ C14​ ​(10uF)​ ​-​ ​capacitor​ ​(-​ ​lead​ ​to​ ​left​ ​pad)​ ​below​ ​of​ ​7805

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 ○ 7805​ ​(VR1​ ​in​ ​BOM)​ ​5v​ ​voltage​ ​regulator​ ​(tab​ ​oriented​ ​as​ ​shown​ ​on​ ​the
PC​ ​board)
○ PWR​ ​LED​ ​(this​ ​is​ ​a​ ​polarized​ ​part!​ ​ ​Be​ ​sure​ ​to​ ​match​ ​the​ ​flat​ ​as​ ​shown​ ​on
the​ ​PC​ ​board)​ ​ ​This​ ​part​ ​is​ ​located​ ​at​ ​the​ ​top-center​ ​of​ ​the​ ​board,​ ​just​ ​to
the​ ​right​ ​of​ ​the​ ​7805​ ​voltage​ ​regulator.
○ R1​ ​(220)​ ​-​ ​top-center​ ​of​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board,​ ​to​ ​the​ ​right​ ​of​ ​the​ ​PWR​ ​LED.
● The​ ​3.3​ ​volt​ ​section​ ​used​ ​for​ ​the​ ​Parallax​ ​Propeller​ ​is​ ​located​ ​at​ ​the​ ​top-right​ ​of
the​ ​circuit​ ​board,​ ​and​ ​consists​ ​of​ ​these​ ​components:
○ 3940​ ​(VR2​ ​in​ ​BOM)​ ​3.3v​ ​voltage​ ​regulator​ ​(tab​ ​oriented​ ​as​ ​shown​ ​on​ ​PC
board)
○ C15​ ​(10uF)​ ​-​ ​capacitor​ ​(-​ ​lead​ ​bottom​ ​pad)
● TESTING:​​ ​ ​Visually​ ​inspect​ ​the​ ​board​ ​for​ ​shorts​ ​caused​ ​from​ ​falling​ ​balls​ ​of
solder.​ ​ ​Observe​ ​safety​ ​precautions,​ ​and​ ​then​ ​plug​ ​power​ ​supply​ ​into​ ​JP1​ ​jack,
and​ ​plug​ ​power​ ​supply​ ​into​ ​a​ ​wall​ ​outlet.​ ​ ​(If​ ​you​ ​installed​ ​an​ ​optional​ ​power
switch,​ ​be​ ​sure​ ​to​ ​turn​ ​this​ ​switch​ ​ON!)​ ​ ​Observe​ ​PWR​ ​LED​ ​should​ ​be​ ​lit.​ ​ ​Using
a​ ​voltmeter,​ ​observe​ ​5v​ ​DC​ ​by​ ​touching​ ​the​ ​positive​ ​(red)​ ​lead​ ​of​ ​the​ ​voltmeter​ ​to
a​ ​VCC​ ​pad​ ​in​ ​the​ ​expansion​ ​header​ ​location,​ ​and​ ​the​ ​negative​ ​(black)​ ​lead​ ​of​ ​the
voltmeter​ ​to​ ​a​ ​GND​ ​pad​ ​in​ ​the​ ​same​ ​expansion​ ​header​ ​location.​ ​ ​Observe​ ​3.3v
DC​ ​by​ ​touching​ ​the​ ​positive​ ​lead​ ​of​ ​the​ ​voltmeter​ ​to​ ​lead​ ​of​ ​C15​ ​that​ ​is​ ​closest​ ​to
the​ ​3940​ ​voltage​ ​regulator,​ ​and​ ​touching​ ​the​ ​negative​ ​lead​ ​of​ ​the​ ​voltmeter​ ​to​ ​a
GND​ ​pad​ ​in​ ​the​ ​expansion​ ​header​ ​section.
D. Solder​ ​in​ ​the​ ​chip​ ​sockets,​ ​being​ ​careful​ ​to​ ​install​ ​the​ ​sockets​ ​with​ ​their​ ​pin​ ​one​ ​notch​ ​in
the​ ​correct​ ​orientation.​ ​ ​All​ ​vertical​ ​oriented​ ​chip​ ​sockets​ ​will​ ​have​ ​the​ ​pin​ ​one​ ​notch
pointing​ ​to​ ​the​ ​top.​ ​ ​All​ ​horizontal​ ​oriented​ ​chip​ ​sockets​ ​will​ ​have​ ​the​ ​pin​ ​one​ ​notch
pointing​ ​to​ ​the​ ​left.​ ​ ​There​ ​are​ ​12​ ​chip​ ​sockets​ ​in​ ​total,​ ​and​ ​there​ ​is​ ​no​ ​U11!​ ​ ​Use
masking​ ​tape​ ​to​ ​hold​ ​each​ ​chip​ ​socket​ ​fully​ ​seated​ ​in​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board,​ ​and​ ​then​ ​solder​ ​in
the​ ​socket​ ​from​ ​the​ ​solder​ ​side.​ ​ ​Remove​ ​the​ ​tape​ ​when​ ​you​ ​are​ ​done.
● Vertical​ ​oriented​ ​chip​ ​sockets​ ​(pin​ ​one​ ​notch​ ​points​ ​to​ ​the​ ​top):
○ U1​ ​65C02​ ​CPU​ ​socket,​ ​40-pin
○ U2​ ​6821​ ​(65C21)​ ​PIA​ ​socket,​ ​40-pin
○ U3​ ​27C256​ ​ROM​ ​socket,​ ​28-pin
○ U4​ ​62256​ ​SRAM​ ​socket,​ ​28-pin
○ U10​ ​MAX232​ ​RS232​ ​Transceiver​ ​socket,​ ​16-pin
○ U12​ ​P8X32A-D40​ ​Propeller​ ​socket,​ ​40-pin
● Horizontal​ ​oriented​ ​chip​ ​sockets​ ​(pin​ ​one​ ​notch​ ​points​ ​to​ ​the​ ​left):
○ U5​ ​74HCT138N​ ​3:8​ ​DECODER​ ​socket,​ ​16-pin
○ U6​ ​74HCT00N​ ​QUAD​ ​NAND​ ​socket,​ ​14-pin
○ U7​ ​74HCT04N​ ​HEX​ ​INVERTER​ ​socket,​ ​14-pin
○ U8​ ​74HCT32N​ ​QUAD​ ​OR​ ​socket,​ ​14-pin
○ U9​ ​LM555N​ ​Timer​ ​socket,​ ​8-pin
○ U13​ ​24LC256P​ ​EEPROM​ ​socket,​ ​8-pin
● TESTING:​​ ​ ​Visually​ ​ensure​ ​all​ ​sockets​ ​have​ ​been​ ​installed​ ​with​ ​the​ ​pin​ ​one​ ​notch
in​ ​the​ ​proper​ ​direction.​ ​ ​If​ ​desired,​ ​check​ ​for​ ​proper​ ​voltage​ ​and​ ​ground​ ​at​ ​each

10
 chip​ ​socket,​ ​using​ ​the​ ​schematic​ ​and/or​ ​datasheets​ ​for​ ​each​ ​chip​ ​to​ ​obtain​ ​proper
pin​ ​locations.
E. Solder​ ​in​ ​the​ ​decoupling​ ​capacitors,​ ​and​ ​C17​ ​(to​ ​the​ ​left​ ​of​ ​C3.)
● The​ ​decoupling​ ​capacitors​ ​are​ ​NOT​ ​polarized.
● All​ ​decoupling​ ​capacitors,​ ​if​ ​marked​ ​on​ ​one​ ​side​ ​with​ ​label​ ​from​ ​the​ ​manufacturer,
should​ ​all​ ​be​ ​installed​ ​in​ ​the​ ​same​ ​orientation​ ​(all​ ​installed​ ​so​ ​that​ ​the​ ​label​ ​is​ ​on
the​ ​same​ ​side​ ​for​ ​all​ ​installations)​ ​for​ ​a​ ​most​ ​professional​ ​look.
● The​ ​decoupling​ ​capacitors​ ​should​ ​have​ ​their​ ​leads​ ​all​ ​bent​ ​the​ ​same​ ​way,​ ​with
one​ ​lead​ ​straight,​ ​and​ ​one​ ​lead​ ​bent​ ​out​ ​a​ ​little​ ​bit​ ​and​ ​then​ ​angled​ ​down​ ​(kind​ ​of
like​ ​a​ ​capital​ ​letter​ ​“R”)​ ​so​ ​that​ ​they​ ​all​ ​fit​ ​in​ ​their​ ​mounting​ ​holes​ ​in​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board
in​ ​the​ ​same​ ​exact​ ​way.​ ​ ​The​ ​straight​ ​leg​ ​should​ ​always​ ​be​ ​closest​ ​to​ ​the​ ​chip​ ​the
decoupling​ ​capacitor​ ​is​ ​filtering,​ ​so​ ​that​ ​the​ ​shortest​ ​lead​ ​between​ ​capacitor​ ​and
chip​ ​exists.
● All​ ​but​ ​1​ ​chip​ ​will​ ​have​ ​a​ ​decoupling​ ​capacitor​ ​(the​ ​MAX232​ ​chip​ ​does​ ​not​ ​have​ ​a
decoupling​ ​capacitor.)​ ​ ​For​ ​all​ ​other​ ​chips,​ ​the​ ​decoupling​ ​capacitor​ ​is​ ​installed​ ​in
the​ ​section​ ​marked​ ​on​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board​ ​with​ ​a​ ​C​ ​number​ ​that​ ​matches​ ​that​ ​chips​ ​U
number.​ ​ ​For​ ​example,​ ​U1​ ​(CPU)​ ​decoupling​ ​capacitor​ ​is​ ​installed​ ​in​ ​blank​ ​C1,
U2​ ​capacitor​ ​in​ ​C2,​ ​etc.​ ​ ​Install​ ​a​ ​decoupling​ ​capacitor​ ​in​ ​locations​ ​C1,​ ​C2,​ ​C3,
C4,​ ​C5,​ ​C6,​ ​C7,​ ​C8,​ ​C9,​ ​C12,​ ​and​ ​C13)​ ​ ​Remember,​ ​there​ ​is​ ​no​ ​chip​ ​U11!
F. Solder​ ​in​ ​the​ ​resistors​ ​and​ ​resistor​ ​pack.
● Resistors​ ​are​ ​not​ ​polarized-​ ​but​ ​should​ ​all​ ​be​ ​installed​ ​in​ ​the​ ​same​ ​orientation​ ​(all
installed​ ​so​ ​that​ ​the​ ​tolerance​ ​band​ ​is​ ​on​ ​the​ ​right-side​ ​for​ ​example.)
● All​ ​resistors​ ​should​ ​have​ ​the​ ​same​ ​exact​ ​bend​ ​placed​ ​into​ ​the​ ​leads,​ ​so​ ​that​ ​they
all​ ​align​ ​on​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board​ ​when​ ​installed,​ ​for​ ​a​ ​most​ ​professional​ ​look.
● The​ ​resistor​ ​pack​ ​pin​ ​1​ ​goes​ ​to​ ​the​ ​top​ ​of​ ​the​ ​board-​ ​and​ ​is​ ​marked​ ​with​ ​a​ ​small
“1”​ ​on​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board​ ​at​ ​the​ ​pin​ ​1​ ​location.​ ​ ​Install​ ​this​ ​component​ ​fully​ ​seated​ ​into
the​ ​board.
● There​ ​are​ ​26​ ​resistors​ ​to​ ​install​ ​in​ ​this​ ​step:
○ R27​ ​(10K)​ ​-​ ​Top​ ​right​ ​of​ ​board,​ ​near​ ​3.3v​ ​power​ ​supply​ ​section
○ R26​ ​(10K)​ ​-​ ​Top​ ​right​ ​of​ ​board,​ ​near​ ​3.3v​ ​power​ ​supply​ ​section
○ R25​ ​(1K)​ ​-​ ​Bottom​ ​right​ ​of​ ​board,​ ​just​ ​under​ ​Propeller​ ​chip
○ R22​ ​(100)​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​5​ ​resistors​ ​together,​ ​just​ ​below​ ​PS/2​ ​connector
○ R20​ ​(3.3K)​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​5​ ​resistors​ ​together,​ ​just​ ​below​ ​PS/2​ ​connector
○ R21​ ​(100)​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​5​ ​resistors​ ​together,​ ​just​ ​below​ ​PS/2​ ​connector
○ R19​ ​(3.3K)​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​5​ ​resistors​ ​together,​ ​just​ ​below​ ​PS/2​ ​connector
○ R10​ ​(3.3K)​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​5​ ​resistors​ ​together,​ ​just​ ​below​ ​PS/2​ ​connector
○ R2​ ​(1K)​ ​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​8,​ ​upper​ ​left​ ​side​ ​of​ ​Propeller
○ R3​ ​(1K)​ ​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​8,​ ​upper​ ​left​ ​side​ ​of​ ​Propeller
○ R4​ ​(1K)​ ​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​8,​ ​upper​ ​left​ ​side​ ​of​ ​Propeller
○ R5​ ​(1K)​ ​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​8,​ ​upper​ ​left​ ​side​ ​of​ ​Propeller
○ R6​ ​(1K)​ ​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​8,​ ​upper​ ​left​ ​side​ ​of​ ​Propeller
○ R7​ ​(1K)​ ​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​8,​ ​upper​ ​left​ ​side​ ​of​ ​Propeller
○ R8​ ​(1K)​ ​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​8,​ ​upper​ ​left​ ​side​ ​of​ ​Propeller

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 ○ R9​ ​(1K)​ ​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​8,​ ​upper​ ​left​ ​side​ ​of​ ​Propeller
○ R18​ ​(1K)​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​3,​ ​bottom​ ​right​ ​side​ ​of​ ​PIA
○ R14​ ​(560)​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​3,​ ​bottom​ ​right​ ​side​ ​of​ ​PIA
○ R17​ ​(220)​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​3,​ ​bottom​ ​right​ ​side​ ​of​ ​PIA
○ R1​ ​(220)​ ​-​ ​Top​ ​Center​ ​of​ ​board​ ​**Already​ ​installed​ ​with​ ​Power​ ​supply!**
○ R23​ ​(3.3K)​ ​-​ ​Upper​ ​right​ ​side​ ​of​ ​65C02​ ​CPU
○ R16​ ​(220K)​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​2,​ ​just​ ​below​ ​Power​ ​jack,​ ​upper​ ​left​ ​side
○ R15​ ​(1M)​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​2,​ ​just​ ​below​ ​Power​ ​jack,​ ​upper​ ​left​ ​side
○ R11​ ​(3.3K)​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​3,​ ​top​ ​left​ ​of​ ​65C02​ ​CPU
○ R12​ ​(3.3K)​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​3,​ ​top​ ​left​ ​of​ ​65C02​ ​CPU
○ R13​ ​(3.3K)​ ​-​ ​Group​ ​of​ ​3,​ ​top​ ​left​ ​of​ ​65C02​ ​CPU
G. Solder​ ​in​ ​the​ ​ps/2,​ ​and​ ​the​ ​composite​ ​connector.
● The​ ​composite​ ​connector​ ​*may*​ ​require​ ​some​ ​fitting.​ ​ ​If​ ​so,​ ​you​ ​may​ ​have​ ​to
either​ ​bend​ ​in​ ​the​ ​leads​ ​slightly​ ​so​ ​they​ ​align​ ​with​ ​the​ ​holes​ ​on​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board
● In​ ​some​ ​rare​ ​cases,​ ​the​ ​leads​ ​of​ ​the​ ​composite​ ​connector​ ​might​ ​be​ ​too​ ​fat​ ​to​ ​slide
fully​ ​into​ ​the​ ​mounting​ ​holes​ ​on​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board.​ ​ ​If​ ​this​ ​is​ ​the​ ​case,​ ​some​ ​GENTLE
adjustment​ ​of​ ​the​ ​leads​ ​using​ ​an​ ​emery​ ​board​ ​or​ ​sandpaper​ ​will​ ​allow​ ​for​ ​a
perfect​ ​fit​ ​before​ ​you​ ​solder​ ​the​ ​connector​ ​in​ ​place.
● Be​ ​sure​ ​to​ ​seat​ ​both​ ​connectors​ ​fully​ ​onto​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board​ ​before​ ​soldering.​ ​ ​Use
masking​ ​tape​ ​to​ ​hole​ ​them​ ​in​ ​place​ ​if​ ​necessary​ ​until​ ​they​ ​are​ ​soldered.
H. Solder​ ​in​ ​the​ ​serial​ ​parts.
● The​ ​PE6502​ ​serial​ ​interface​ ​is​ ​comprised​ ​of​ ​5​ ​polarized​ ​capacitors,​ ​1
non-polarized​ ​capacitor,​ ​a​ ​transistor,​ ​a​ ​serial​ ​connector​ ​header,​ ​and​ ​a​ ​MAX232
(for​ ​which​ ​you’ve​ ​already​ ​installed​ ​the​ ​socket​ ​for​ ​in​ ​a​ ​previous​ ​step.)
○ Install​ ​the​ ​5​ ​capacitors​ ​(these​ ​are​ ​polarized​ ​parts!)​ ​as​ ​follows:
■ C25​ ​(10uF)​ ​-​ ​Top-left​ ​of​ ​MAX232​ ​(-​ ​lead​ ​to​ ​bottom​ ​pad)
■ C19​ ​(10uF)​ ​-​ ​Bottom-left​ ​of​ ​MAX232​ ​(-​ ​lead​ ​to​ ​bottom​ ​pad)
■ C18​ ​(10uF)​ ​-​ ​Top-right​ ​of​ ​MAX232​ ​(​-​ ​lead​ ​to​ ​TOP​ ​pad​)
■ C22​ ​(10uF)​ ​-​ ​Middle-right​ ​of​ ​MAX232​ ​(-lead​ ​to​ ​bottom​ ​pad)
■ C20​ ​(10uF)​ ​-​ ​Bottom-right​ ​of​ ​MAX232​ ​(-lead​ ​to​ ​bottom​ ​pad)
○ Install​ ​the​ ​Q1​ ​transistor​ ​-​ ​at​ ​the​ ​top-right​ ​of​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board,​ ​to​ ​the​ ​left​ ​of​ ​the
Prop​ ​RST​ ​tac​ ​switch​ ​location.​ ​ ​You​ ​will​ ​have​ ​to​ ​bend​ ​the​ ​legs​ ​of​ ​the
transistor​ ​slightly​ ​so​ ​that​ ​it​ ​will​ ​fit​ ​in​ ​the​ ​mounting​ ​holes.​ ​ ​Seat​ ​it​ ​in​ ​the​ ​PC
board​ ​enough​ ​so​ ​that​ ​the​ ​leads​ ​are​ ​not​ ​in​ ​danger​ ​of​ ​shorting​ ​to​ ​anything
(and​ ​the​ ​transistor​ ​package​ ​is​ ​close​ ​to​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board)​ ​but​ ​not​ ​so​ ​close​ ​that
there​ ​is​ ​great​ ​pressure​ ​on​ ​the​ ​leads.​ ​ ​Be​ ​sure​ ​to​ ​align​ ​the​ ​flat​ ​on​ ​the
transistor​ ​package​ ​to​ ​the​ ​flat​ ​mark​ ​on​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board,​ ​and​ ​solder​ ​it​ ​into
place.
○ Install​ ​the​ ​non-polarized​ ​capacitor,​ ​C26​ ​(.1uF),​ ​to​ ​the​ ​left​ ​of​ ​the​ ​Q1
transistor.
○ Install​ ​the​ ​serial​ ​connector​ ​header,​ ​into​ ​its​ ​location​ ​at​ ​the​ ​bottom-right​ ​of
the​ ​PC​ ​board.​ ​ ​Just​ ​as​ ​you​ ​did​ ​with​ ​the​ ​chip​ ​sockets,​ ​use​ ​tape​ ​to​ ​hold​ ​this
part​ ​fully​ ​seated​ ​into​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board​ ​until​ ​you​ ​finish​ ​soldering​ ​it​ ​in​ ​place.

12
I. Solder​ ​in​ ​the​ ​reset​ ​circuit,​ ​and​ ​tac​ ​switches.
● The​ ​reset​ ​circuit​ ​is​ ​comprised​ ​of​ ​3​ ​capacitors,​ ​the​ ​LM555​ ​timer​ ​chip​ ​(for​ ​which
you’ve​ ​already​ ​installed​ ​the​ ​socket​ ​and​ ​decoupling​ ​capacitor​ ​for​ ​in​ ​previous
steps),​ ​and​ ​two​ ​tac​ ​switches.
○ Install​ ​the​ ​3​ ​capacitors​ ​(these​ ​are​ ​polarized​ ​parts!)​ ​as​ ​follows:
■ C16​ ​(10uF)​ ​-​ ​above​ ​of​ ​LM555​ ​(-​ ​lead​ ​to​ ​left​ ​pad)
■ C24​ ​(.1uF)​ ​-​ ​bottom-left​ ​of​ ​LM555​ ​(not​ ​polarized!)
■ C23​ ​(.1uF)​ ​-​ ​bottom-right​ ​of​ ​LM555​ ​(not​ ​polarized!)
○ Install​ ​the​ ​2​ ​reset​ ​tac​ ​switches​ ​into​ ​their​ ​locations.​ ​ ​The​ ​tac​ ​switches​ ​are
wider​ ​than​ ​they​ ​are​ ​tall,​ ​and​ ​therefore​ ​will​ ​only​ ​fit​ ​with​ ​the​ ​widest​ ​part​ ​of
the​ ​switch​ ​oriented​ ​horizontally​ ​on​ ​the​ ​board.​ ​ ​Insure​ ​these​ ​are​ ​installed
fully​ ​seated​ ​into​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board.
■ CPU​ ​Reset​ ​switch​ ​-​ ​on​ ​the​ ​left​ ​side​ ​of​ ​PC​ ​board​ ​just​ ​above​ ​the
expansion​ ​header.
■ Prop​ ​RST​ ​switch​ ​-​ ​on​ ​the​ ​top-right​ ​side​ ​of​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board​ ​just​ ​above
the​ ​Propeller​ ​plug​ ​header.
J. Solder​ ​in​ ​the​ ​CPU​ ​oscillator,​ ​and​ ​the​ ​Propeller​ ​crystal.
● OPTIONAL:​ ​ ​If​ ​you​ ​would​ ​like​ ​the​ ​option​ ​of​ ​changing​ ​your​ ​PE6502​ ​clock​ ​speed
between​ ​1MHz,​ ​2MHz,​ ​and​ ​4MHz​ ​(not​ ​recommended)​ ​obtain​ ​a​ ​16-pin​ ​chip
socket,​ ​and​ ​remove​ ​all​ ​inside​ ​pin​ ​legs​ ​so​ ​only​ ​the​ ​perimeter​ ​pins​ ​remain.​ ​ ​This
will​ ​allow​ ​the​ ​socket​ ​to​ ​be​ ​installed​ ​where​ ​the​ ​oscillator​ ​needs​ ​to​ ​go​ ​on​ ​the
PE6502​ ​PC​ ​board,​ ​and​ ​the​ ​oscillator​ ​can​ ​be​ ​plugged​ ​into​ ​that​ ​socket.
● Install​ ​both​ ​oscillator​ ​and​ ​crystal​ ​parts​ ​so​ ​that​ ​they​ ​are​ ​flat​ ​against​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board.
● The​ ​oscillator​ ​MUST​ ​be​ ​installed​ ​with​ ​the​ ​right-angle​ ​corner​ ​(pin​ ​1)​ ​installed​ ​in​ ​the
top-left​ ​oscillator​ ​pad​ ​(the​ ​other​ ​3​ ​corners​ ​are​ ​rounded.)
● The​ ​crystal​ ​is​ ​not​ ​polarized​ ​and​ ​can​ ​be​ ​installed​ ​in​ ​either​ ​direction.
K. Solder​ ​in​ ​the​ ​expansion​ ​header,​ ​and​ ​the​ ​prop-plug​ ​header.
● Install​ ​the​ ​expansion​ ​header​ ​into​ ​its​ ​location​ ​along​ ​the​ ​left-side​ ​of​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board.
Just​ ​as​ ​you​ ​did​ ​with​ ​the​ ​chip​ ​sockets,​ ​use​ ​tape​ ​to​ ​hold​ ​this​ ​part​ ​fully​ ​seated​ ​into
the​ ​PC​ ​board​ ​until​ ​you​ ​finish​ ​soldering​ ​it​ ​in​ ​place.
● Install​ ​the​ ​Propeller​ ​plug​ ​programming​ ​header​ ​into​ ​its​ ​place​ ​at​ ​the​ ​top-right​ ​of​ ​the
PC​ ​board.​ ​ ​This​ ​is​ ​a​ ​right-angle​ ​header,​ ​so​ ​be​ ​sure​ ​to​ ​orient​ ​the​ ​header​ ​so​ ​that
the​ ​base​ ​sits​ ​fully​ ​seated​ ​into​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board​ ​with​ ​its​ ​legs​ ​into​ ​the​ ​mounting​ ​holes
straight.​ ​ ​On​ ​top​ ​of​ ​the​ ​base,​ ​the​ ​pins​ ​should​ ​make​ ​a​ ​right-angle,​ ​and​ ​then
protrude​ ​off​ ​the​ ​right-side​ ​of​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board​ ​to​ ​facilitate​ ​connection​ ​to​ ​a​ ​Propeller
plug​ ​interface.
L. Check​ ​for​ ​cold​ ​solder​ ​joints,​ ​solder​ ​bridges,​ ​etc.
● Check​ ​in​ ​the​ ​appendix​ ​section​ ​for​ ​soldering​ ​newbs​ ​for​ ​more​ ​information.
Essentially​ ​you’re​ ​looking​ ​for​ ​a​ ​not-completely-formed​ ​solder​ ​joint​ ​(no​ ​meniscus,
not​ ​fully​ ​penetrating​ ​joint,​ ​cracked​ ​looking,​ ​not​ ​shiny)
● If​ ​you​ ​find​ ​any​ ​bad/cold​ ​solder​ ​joints,​ ​touch​ ​them​ ​up​ ​now​ ​until​ ​they​ ​meet​ ​your
approval.

13
 ● Remove​ ​any​ ​solder​ ​bridges​ ​you​ ​find​ ​with​ ​desoldering​ ​braid.​ ​ ​Ensure​ ​the
previously​ ​bridged​ ​joints​ ​are​ ​now​ ​un-bridged,​ ​but​ ​good​ ​solder​ ​joints.
M. Clean​ ​off​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​of​ ​flux.
● Using​ ​rubbing​ ​alcohol​ ​and​ ​Q-tips,​ ​clean​ ​off​ ​the​ ​flux​ ​that​ ​inevitably​ ​splattered​ ​all
over​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​board​ ​while​ ​you​ ​were​ ​soldering.
○ Dip​ ​a​ ​fresh​ ​Q-tip​ ​into​ ​the​ ​alcohol,​ ​then​ ​use​ ​it​ ​to​ ​scrub​ ​away​ ​the​ ​flux
splatters.
○ Use​ ​a​ ​fresh,​ ​non-dipped​ ​Q-tip​ ​to​ ​go​ ​back​ ​and​ ​dry​ ​off​ ​any​ ​remaining
alcohol​ ​on​ ​the​ ​board.
○ Repeat​ ​the​ ​alcohol​ ​dipped​ ​Q-tip​ ​scrub,​ ​then​ ​dry​ ​Q-tip​ ​scrub​ ​until​ ​no​ ​flux,
oily-looking​ ​swirls/smudges​ ​remain.
○ This​ ​process​ ​also​ ​helps​ ​to​ ​remove​ ​tiny​ ​splatters​ ​of​ ​solder​ ​from​ ​the​ ​board,
removing​ ​them​ ​as​ ​a​ ​possible​ ​source​ ​of​ ​a​ ​short​ ​later.
○ An​ ​old,​ ​clean​ ​but​ ​about​ ​to​ ​be​ ​thrown-away​ ​t-shirt,​ ​or​ ​other​ ​lint-free​ ​cloth
can​ ​then​ ​be​ ​used​ ​to​ ​help​ ​remove​ ​any​ ​remaining​ ​lint​ ​from​ ​the​ ​Q-tips.
○ Ensure​ ​the​ ​board​ ​is​ ​clean​ ​and​ ​dry​ ​before​ ​you​ ​continue​ ​to​ ​the​ ​next​ ​step!
N. Last​ ​second​ ​checks​ ​before​ ​the​ ​chips​ ​are​ ​plugged​ ​in.
● All​ ​polarized​ ​components​ ​installed​ ​in​ ​proper​ ​orientation.
● No​ ​un-trimmed​ ​component​ ​leads​ ​still​ ​exist.
● All​ ​parts​ ​are​ ​installed.
● Power​ ​switch​ ​option​ ​is​ ​either​ ​installed,​ ​or​ ​leads​ ​were​ ​installed​ ​and​ ​soldered​ ​(and
trimmed!)​ ​to​ ​keep​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​in​ ​the​ ​“ON”​ ​position.
O. Plug​ ​in​ ​the​ ​chips.
● Be​ ​sure​ ​to​ ​plug​ ​all​ ​chips​ ​into​ ​the​ ​proper​ ​location,​ ​with​ ​the​ ​correct​ ​orientation​ ​(chip
notch​ ​or​ ​pin​ ​1​ ​indicator​ ​matches​ ​socket​ ​and​ ​board​ ​pin​ ​1​ ​indicators.)
● Before​ ​you​ ​attempt​ ​to​ ​plug​ ​in​ ​a​ ​chip,​ ​you​ ​might​ ​have​ ​to​ ​bend​ ​all​ ​legs​ ​on​ ​each​ ​side
to​ ​bring​ ​them​ ​closer​ ​to​ ​a​ ​90​ ​degree​ ​angle​ ​with​ ​the​ ​chip​ ​body​ ​(i.e.,​ ​the​ ​pins​ ​might
be​ ​too​ ​spread​ ​out,​ ​and​ ​need​ ​to​ ​be​ ​brought​ ​closer​ ​together​ ​so​ ​they’ll​ ​easily​ ​align
with​ ​the​ ​socket).
○ This​ ​is​ ​most​ ​easily​ ​accomplished​ ​by​ ​holding​ ​a​ ​chip​ ​by​ ​its​ ​body,​ ​and​ ​one
whole​ ​side​ ​at​ ​a​ ​time,​ ​use​ ​a​ ​table​ ​surface​ ​(or​ ​piece​ ​of​ ​wood)​ ​to​ ​GENTLY
bend​ ​all​ ​pins​ ​closer​ ​to​ ​the​ ​opposite​ ​side​ ​pins.
○ Only​ ​do​ ​this​ ​a​ ​little​ ​bit​ ​at​ ​a​ ​time-​ ​switching​ ​sides​ ​to​ ​obtain​ ​an​ ​even​ ​bend​ ​of
both​ ​sides​ ​towards​ ​each​ ​other,​ ​and​ ​stopping​ ​when​ ​you’ve​ ​got​ ​a​ ​good
alignment​ ​to​ ​plug​ ​the​ ​chip​ ​into​ ​its​ ​socket.
○ Too​ ​much​ ​bending​ ​(admittedly​ ​to​ ​a​ ​sharp​ ​angle)​ ​and​ ​back​ ​will​ ​weaken​ ​the
pin,​ ​possibly​ ​causing​ ​it​ ​to​ ​break​ ​off,​ ​rendering​ ​the​ ​chip​ ​useless.
● CAREFULLY​ ​insert​ ​the​ ​chip​ ​into​ ​its​ ​socket,​ ​ensuring​ ​that​ ​all​ ​legs​ ​are​ ​entering​ ​the
socket​ ​in​ ​their​ ​individual​ ​place,​ ​centered​ ​into​ ​the​ ​socket​ ​opening.
○ If​ ​any​ ​individual​ ​lead​ ​is​ ​not​ ​aligned​ ​so​ ​that​ ​it​ ​will​ ​go​ ​into​ ​its​ ​socket,​ ​stop,
adjust​ ​it​ ​with​ ​needlenose​ ​pliers​ ​GENTLY,​ ​and​ ​then​ ​try​ ​again.
○ Once​ ​you​ ​are​ ​certain​ ​that​ ​all​ ​pins​ ​are​ ​aligned​ ​with​ ​their​ ​individual​ ​socket,
apply​ ​pressure​ ​to​ ​the​ ​top​ ​of​ ​the​ ​chip​ ​to​ ​seat​ ​it​ ​fully​ ​in​ ​its​ ​socket.

14
 After​ ​the​ ​chip​ ​is​ ​fully​ ​seated,​ ​verify​ ​that​ ​all​ ​chip​ ​leads​ ​went​ ​fully​ ​into​ ​their
○
socket​ ​and​ ​are​ ​not​ ​bent,​ ​etc.​ ​(bent​ ​pins​ ​have​ ​caused​ ​LOTS​ ​of​ ​issues!)
P. The​ ​smoke​ ​test!​​ ​ ​The​ ​assembly​ ​steps​ ​are​ ​essentially​ ​done.​ ​ ​All​ ​that​ ​remains​ ​is​ ​that​ ​first,
super-cautious​ ​power-on,​ ​watching​ ​closely​ ​to​ ​ensure​ ​nothing​ ​goes​ ​“POP!”​ ​when​ ​you
power​ ​it​ ​on!

In​ ​the​ ​old​ ​days,​ ​a​ ​smoke​ ​test​ ​was​ ​just​ ​that-​ ​to​ ​ensure​ ​that​ ​nothing​ ​caught​ ​on​ ​fire​ ​during
the​ ​first​ ​power​ ​up!​ ​ ​While​ ​it’s​ ​unlikely​ ​your​ ​PE6502​ ​will​ ​catch​ ​fire,​ ​be​ ​ready​ ​to​ ​cut​ ​the
power​ ​immediately​ ​if​ ​you​ ​see​ ​something​ ​that​ ​appears​ ​to​ ​be​ ​drastically​ ​going​ ​wrong.

If​ ​your​ ​PE6502​ ​passes​ ​this​ ​smoke​ ​test,​ ​power​ ​it​ ​back​ ​off,​ ​connect​ ​your​ ​keyboard,
composite​ ​monitor/TV,​ ​and​ ​your​ ​serial​ ​harness.​ ​ ​Your​ ​PE6502​ ​is​ ​ready​ ​for​ ​use!

**NOTE**​ ​ ​When​ ​connecting​ ​the​ ​serial​ ​harness​ ​to​ ​the​ ​serial​ ​header,​ ​be​ ​mindful​ ​of​ ​the​ ​ribbon​ ​cable-
which​ ​has​ ​a​ ​red​ ​stripe​ ​on​ ​one​ ​side​ ​of​ ​it.​ ​ ​This​ ​red​ ​stripe​ ​indicates​ ​pin​ ​1,​ ​and​ ​should​ ​be​ ​facing​ ​the​ ​left
side​ ​(aligned​ ​with​ ​the​ ​pin​ ​1​ ​marking​ ​on​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board​ ​for​ ​the​ ​serial​ ​header.)

**NOTE**​ ​ ​Other​ ​serial​ ​terminal​ ​programs,​ ​such​ ​as​ ​Termite,​ ​and​ ​PuTTY​ ​will​ ​work,​ ​but​ ​we’ve​ ​used​ ​Tera
Term​ ​(see​ ​Appendix​ ​section​ ​“Where​ ​to​ ​Get​ ​More​ ​Information”/​ ​web​ ​links​ ​for​ ​download​ ​information)​ ​with
great​ ​success.​ ​ ​Here​ ​are​ ​the​ ​Tera​ ​Term​ ​settings​ ​known​ ​to​ ​work​ ​well​ ​with​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​computer:

15
IV.​ ​ ​You're​ ​done!​ ​ ​ENJOY!
Hey,​ ​you​ ​did​ ​it!​ ​ ​You've​ ​now​ ​got​ ​a​ ​working​ ​computer,​ ​that​ ​you've​ ​built​ ​yourself!​ ​ ​Now,​ ​have​ ​fun
with​ ​it!​ ​ ​Go​ ​to​ ​the​ ​putnamelectronics.com​ ​forum,​ ​and​ ​talk​ ​with​ ​the​ ​rest​ ​of​ ​us​ ​users/enjoyers​ ​of
the​ ​PE6502!​ ​ ​Tell​ ​us​ ​about​ ​what​ ​hardware​ ​you're​ ​using​ ​your​ ​computer​ ​with,​ ​software​ ​you're
using,​ ​and​ ​what​ ​software​ ​you’d​ ​like​ ​to​ ​make.​ ​ ​Talk​ ​about​ ​the​ ​hardware​ ​expansions​ ​you​ ​would
like​ ​to​ ​see.​ ​ ​And,​ ​if​ ​you​ ​can,​ ​show​ ​young​ ​people/old​ ​people/kindred​ ​spirits​ ​this​ ​computer-​ ​use​ ​it
to​ ​teach,​ ​use​ ​it​ ​to​ ​learn.

16
A1.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​I​ ​-​ ​Now​ ​that​ ​I've​ ​built​ ​this​ ​thing,​ ​how
do​ ​I​ ​actually​ ​use​ ​it?
This​ ​really​ ​is​ ​a​ ​simple​ ​computer.​ ​ ​Upon​ ​power​ ​on,​ ​it​ ​starts​ ​in​ ​the​ ​monitor​ ​program​ ​(also​ ​known
as​ ​"Woz​ ​Mon".)​ ​ ​This​ ​program​ ​allows​ ​you​ ​to​ ​view​ ​and​ ​modify​ ​the​ ​contents​ ​of​ ​RAM,​ ​and​ ​view​ ​the
contents​ ​of​ ​ROM.​ ​ ​The​ ​power​ ​up​ ​system​ ​header​ ​gives​ ​you​ ​an​ ​abbreviated​ ​memory​ ​map,
showing​ ​you​ ​where​ ​the​ ​main​ ​programs​ ​are​ ​in​ ​ROM,​ ​and​ ​where​ ​user​ ​RAM​ ​is​ ​located.

To​ ​view​ ​a​ ​memory​ ​address​ ​(ROM​ ​or​ ​RAM),​ ​simply​ ​type​ ​that​ ​address​ ​at​ ​the​ ​monitor​ ​prompt​ ​(a
backspace,​ ​with​ ​a​ ​blinking​ ​at​ ​sign​ ​cursor),​ ​and​ ​hit​ ​enter.​ ​ ​To​ ​view​ ​a​ ​range,​ ​type​ ​the​ ​start
address,​ ​a​ ​period,​ ​and​ ​the​ ​stop​ ​address​ ​and​ ​hit​ ​enter.​ ​ ​To​ ​modify​ ​the​ ​contents​ ​of​ ​an​ ​address​ ​in
RAM,​ ​type​ ​that​ ​address,​ ​a​ ​colon,​ ​and​ ​the​ ​contents​ ​in​ ​two-hexadecimal​ ​byte​ ​code,​ ​and​ ​then​ ​hit
enter.​ ​ ​Multiple​ ​follow​ ​on​ ​bytecodes​ ​in​ ​incrementing​ ​address​ ​locations​ ​can​ ​be​ ​entered​ ​after​ ​the
initial​ ​entry,​ ​by​ ​separating​ ​them​ ​with​ ​a​ ​space,​ ​and​ ​hitting​ ​enter​ ​when​ ​you​ ​are​ ​done.

To​ ​run​ ​a​ ​program​ ​in​ ​RAM​ ​or​ ​ROM,​ ​enter​ ​the​ ​start​ ​address,​ ​followed​ ​by​ ​an​ ​R,​ ​and​ ​then​ ​hit​ ​enter.
For​ ​example,​ ​to​ ​start​ ​Integer​ ​BASIC,​ ​type​ ​E000R​ ​(and​ ​then​ ​hit​ ​enter.)​ ​ ​Notice​ ​the​ ​prompt
changes​ ​to​ ​a​ ​greater-than​ ​sign.​ ​ ​You're​ ​now​ ​in​ ​Integer​ ​BASIC!​ ​ ​Type​ ​CALL-256​ ​(and​ ​then​ ​hit
enter)​ ​to​ ​exit.​ ​ ​Typing​ ​8000R​ ​(and​ ​then​ ​hitting​ ​enter)​ ​will​ ​start​ ​Applesoft​ ​Lite​ ​BASIC​ ​(notice​ ​the
right​ ​bracket​ ​prompt.)​ ​ ​Again,​ ​type​ ​CALL-256​ ​(and​ ​then​ ​hit​ ​enter)​ ​to​ ​exit​ ​back​ ​to​ ​the​ ​monitor.
The​ ​Krusader​ ​Assembler​ ​(and​ ​also​ ​debugger)​ ​both​ ​start​ ​in​ ​the​ ​same​ ​way,​ ​but​ ​both​ ​exit​ ​by​ ​typing
a​ ​dollar​ ​sign,​ ​and​ ​then​ ​hitting​ ​enter.

You​ ​can​ ​always​ ​reset​ ​the​ ​CPU,​ ​and​ ​also​ ​the​ ​Propeller​ ​terminal,​ ​by​ ​pressing​ ​their​ ​respective
reset​ ​buttons.

Using​ ​the​ ​"Tera​ ​Term"​ ​terminal​ ​program​ ​(see​ ​Appendix​ ​section​ ​with​ ​useful​ ​links),​ ​you​ ​can​ ​load​ ​a
program​ ​into​ ​memory,​ ​by​ ​using​ ​the​ ​File​ ​menu​ ​->​ ​"Send​ ​File".​ ​ ​Then​ ​browse​ ​to​ ​the​ ​text​ ​file​ ​you
wish​ ​to​ ​send​ ​(if​ ​it​ ​is​ ​in​ ​machine​ ​code,​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​your​ ​PE6502​ ​is​ ​in​ ​the​ ​monitor​ ​program​ ​first!
Likewise,​ ​if​ ​the​ ​program​ ​you​ ​are​ ​sending​ ​is​ ​in​ ​BASIC,​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​your​ ​PE6502​ ​is​ ​in​ ​the​ ​proper
BASIC​ ​before​ ​sending​ ​the​ ​file-​ ​otherwise​ ​you'll​ ​get​ ​lots​ ​of​ ​errors​ ​and​ ​have​ ​to​ ​reset!)​ ​ ​You​ ​can
save​ ​too,​ ​for​ ​example,​ ​if​ ​you're​ ​in​ ​BASIC,​ ​type​ ​LIST​ ​and​ ​hit​ ​enter​ ​(while​ ​you're​ ​connected​ ​to
serial​ ​and​ ​have​ ​the​ ​teraterm​ ​terminal​ ​window​ ​echoing​ ​your​ ​screen​ ​output.)​ ​ ​Next,​ ​after​ ​the​ ​listing
completes,​ ​simply​ ​highlight​ ​in​ ​teraterm​ ​the​ ​program,​ ​copy​ ​and​ ​paste​ ​it​ ​to​ ​a​ ​text​ ​file,​ ​and​ ​save
that​ ​file.

For​ ​in-depth​ ​instructions​ ​for​ ​the​ ​individual​ ​PE6502​ ​applications​ ​in​ ​ROM,​ ​please​ ​see​ ​the​ ​links
section​ ​elsewhere​ ​in​ ​this​ ​document​ ​for​ ​more​ ​in-depth,​ ​dedicated​ ​guides.

17
A2.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​II​ ​-​ ​Schematics
**NOTE**​ ​For​ ​full-size​ ​schematics,​ ​please​ ​refer​ ​to​ ​the​ ​dedicated​ ​schematics​ ​file,​ ​located​ ​on​ ​the
putnamelectronics​ ​website​ ​PE6502​ ​product​ ​page.

18
19
A3.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​III​ ​-​ ​Bill​ ​of​ ​Materials
**NOTE**​ ​for​ ​an​ ​.xls​ ​version​ ​of​ ​the​ ​Bill​ ​of​ ​Materials,​ ​please​ ​download​ ​from​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​page​ ​in
the​ ​Products​ ​section​ ​of​ ​the​ ​putnamelectronics.com​ ​website.

**NOTE**​ ​all​ ​prices​ ​listed​ ​are​ ​from​ ​the​ ​vendor​ ​at​ ​the​ ​time​ ​of​ ​design,​ ​and​ ​are​ ​ABSOLUTELY​ ​not
guaranteed-​ ​these​ ​are​ ​subject​ ​to​ ​change.​ ​ ​Please​ ​contact​ ​Putnam​ ​Electronics​ ​if​ ​a​ ​part​ ​is​ ​missing
from​ ​your​ ​kit-​ ​we​ ​will​ ​send​ ​you​ ​this​ ​missing​ ​part​ ​free​ ​of​ ​charge.​ ​ ​Please​ ​purchase​ ​replacement
parts​ ​directly​ ​from​ ​the​ ​vendor,​ ​linked​ ​in​ ​the​ ​Appendix​ ​section​ ​“Where​ ​to​ ​Get​ ​More​ ​Information”/
web​ ​links.

20
96.​ ​ ​(N/A) ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​(N/A) ​ ​ ​PE6502​ ​2-layer​ ​PC​ ​board ​ ​(N/A)

21
A4.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​IV​ ​-​ ​Soldering​ ​Tips​ ​for​ ​Newbs
Soldering​ ​is​ ​the​ ​mechanical​ ​and​ ​electrical​ ​connection​ ​of​ ​two​ ​(or​ ​more)​ ​electronics​ ​devices..​ ​ ​To
be​ ​done​ ​properly,​ ​good​ ​thermal​ ​control​ ​is​ ​a​ ​must!​ ​ ​Thermal​ ​control​ ​involves​ ​both​ ​the​ ​soldering
iron​ ​being​ ​regulated​ ​to​ ​the​ ​proper​ ​temperature,​ ​and​ ​the​ ​heat​ ​only​ ​being​ ​applied​ ​for​ ​just​ ​long
enough​ ​for​ ​a​ ​solid​ ​connection​ ​to​ ​be​ ​made​ ​(but​ ​not​ ​too​ ​short,​ ​or​ ​else​ ​a​ ​faulty​ ​solder​ ​joint​ ​can​ ​be
created!)​ ​ ​Two​ ​things​ ​are​ ​needed​ ​here:​ ​ ​A​ ​temperature​ ​regulated​ ​soldering​ ​iron​ ​(and​ ​not​ ​one​ ​of
those​ ​el-cheapo​ ​soldering​ ​irons​ ​you​ ​get​ ​at​ ​Walmart,​ ​with​ ​just​ ​a​ ​plug​ ​and​ ​no​ ​controls!)​ ​and​ ​also
the​ ​skill​ ​to​ ​use​ ​the​ ​soldering​ ​iron​ ​properly​ ​without​ ​burning​ ​the​ ​board​ ​or​ ​components.​ ​ ​Plus,​ ​a
clean​ ​iron​ ​which​ ​will​ ​prevent​ ​contaminated​ ​joints,​ ​and​ ​the​ ​proper​ ​solder​ ​(again,​ ​get​ ​60/40​ ​-​ ​that's
60%​ ​tin,​ ​40%​ ​lead,​ ​with​ ​rosin​ ​flux​ ​core,​ ​in​ ​.032​ ​inch​ ​diameter.)​ ​ ​Get​ ​GOOD​ ​solder!

Too​ ​long​ ​on​ ​a​ ​PC​ ​board/connection​ ​with​ ​a​ ​soldering​ ​iron​ ​will​ ​melt​ ​the​ ​phenolic​ ​resin​ ​(plastic)​ ​the
PC​ ​board​ ​is​ ​made​ ​of,​ ​causing​ ​the​ ​copper​ ​trace​ ​and/or​ ​pad​ ​beneath​ ​the​ ​connection​ ​to
delaminate,​ ​ruining​ ​the​ ​board.​ ​ ​Too​ ​short​ ​on​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board/connection​ ​with​ ​a​ ​soldering​ ​iron,​ ​and
a​ ​"cold"​ ​solder​ ​joint​ ​will​ ​be​ ​created-​ ​it's​ ​signature​ ​is​ ​a​ ​milky,​ ​dull​ ​appearance,​ ​that​ ​will​ ​have​ ​a
high​ ​resistance​ ​and​ ​a​ ​poor​ ​mechanical​ ​connection.​ ​ ​A​ ​proper​ ​soldering​ ​joint​ ​will​ ​not​ ​burn​ ​the​ ​PC
board​ ​or​ ​components,​ ​yet​ ​will​ ​be​ ​shiny​ ​in​ ​appearance.

The​ ​main​ ​idea:​ ​ ​Assemble​ ​the​ ​joint​ ​to​ ​be​ ​soldered​ ​mechanically.​ ​ ​You​ ​then​ ​want​ ​to​ ​"tin"​ ​(lightly
coat)​ ​the​ ​clean​ ​soldering​ ​iron​ ​tip,​ ​(once​ ​it​ ​is​ ​up-to-temperature-​ ​around​ ​675​ ​degrees​ ​F)​ ​with
some​ ​fresh​ ​solder.​ ​ ​Then,​ ​apply​ ​the​ ​tip​ ​of​ ​the​ ​soldering​ ​iron​ ​to​ ​the​ ​joint,​ ​so​ ​that​ ​it​ ​is
simultaneously​ ​heating​ ​the​ ​solder​ ​pad​ ​on​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​board,​ ​and​ ​the​ ​component​ ​lead​ ​to​ ​be​ ​soldered.
While​ ​you​ ​are​ ​heating​ ​the​ ​joint,​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​joint​ ​with​ ​a​ ​strand​ ​of​ ​solder​ ​from​ ​your​ ​solder​ ​reel,​ ​and
a​ ​perfect​ ​soldering​ ​joint​ ​should​ ​happen​ ​as​ ​the​ ​tinned​ ​iron​ ​"pulls"​ ​the​ ​fresh​ ​solder​ ​into​ ​the​ ​headed
joint.​ ​ ​Then​ ​remove​ ​the​ ​iron​ ​from​ ​the​ ​joint,​ ​and​ ​continue​ ​holding​ ​the​ ​joint​ ​for​ ​a​ ​few​ ​seconds​ ​while
it​ ​cools​ ​long​ ​enough​ ​for​ ​the​ ​solder​ ​to​ ​solidify​ ​in​ ​a​ ​shiny​ ​joint.​ ​ ​Don't​ ​blow​ ​on​ ​it​ ​to​ ​cool-​ ​let​ ​it​ ​cool
on​ ​its​ ​own!​ ​ ​REMEMBER:​ ​ ​not​ ​too​ ​long,​ ​or​ ​else​ ​you​ ​will​ ​melt​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​Board​ ​and​ ​delaminate​ ​the
pad​ ​or​ ​a​ ​trace.​ ​ ​Also,​ ​try​ ​not​ ​to​ ​push​ ​too​ ​much​ ​solder​ ​into​ ​the​ ​joint​ ​(you​ ​want​ ​the​ ​solder​ ​to​ ​flow
from​ ​the​ ​solder​ ​real​ ​into​ ​the​ ​joint),​ ​as​ ​pushing​ ​it​ ​can​ ​put​ ​too​ ​much​ ​solder​ ​on​ ​the​ ​other​ ​side​ ​of​ ​the
PC​ ​board.​ ​ ​However,​ ​you​ ​do​ ​want​ ​solder​ ​going​ ​all​ ​the​ ​way​ ​through​ ​the​ ​joint.

It​ ​is​ ​a​ ​good​ ​idea​ ​to​ ​trim​ ​leads​ ​that​ ​are​ ​sticking​ ​through​ ​a​ ​soldered​ ​PC​ ​board​ ​joint.​ ​ ​This​ ​prevents
the​ ​long​ ​leads​ ​from​ ​touching​ ​other​ ​items/leads,​ ​and​ ​causing​ ​a​ ​short​ ​circuit.​ ​ ​HOWEVER,​ ​never
cut​ ​a​ ​lead​ ​too​ ​short​ ​(cutting​ ​into​ ​the​ ​solder​ ​"meniscus",​ ​that​ ​bit​ ​of​ ​a​ ​solder​ ​cone​ ​that​ ​surrounds
the​ ​wire​ ​or​ ​lead​ ​coming​ ​through​ ​the​ ​joint.)​ ​ ​Doing​ ​so​ ​will​ ​weaken​ ​the​ ​joint,​ ​and​ ​cause​ ​a​ ​reliability
problem​ ​later.

**It​ ​makes​ ​sense​ ​for​ ​someone​ ​new​ ​to​ ​soldering​ ​to​ ​PRACTICE,​ ​on​ ​an​ ​inexpensive​ ​piece​ ​of
copper​ ​pad​ ​"perf​ ​board",​ ​available​ ​online​ ​from​ ​many​ ​parts​ ​suppliers,​ ​Radio​ ​Shack​ ​(if​ ​you​ ​can

22
still​ ​find​ ​one!),​ ​Microcenter,​ ​Amazon,​ ​etc.​ ​ ​Don't​ ​risk​ ​your​ ​fancy​ ​new​ ​PE6502​ ​PC​ ​Board​ ​if​ ​you're
not​ ​feeling​ ​confident.​ ​ ​Everyone​ ​has​ ​to​ ​learn​ ​somehow,​ ​and​ ​the​ ​perf​ ​board​ ​is​ ​the​ ​perfect​ ​way.
Buy​ ​some​ ​cheap​ ​resistors,​ ​sockets,​ ​and​ ​other​ ​parts​ ​(or​ ​re-use​ ​parts​ ​clipped​ ​off​ ​dead​ ​electronics)
to​ ​practice​ ​soldering​ ​components​ ​into​ ​a​ ​board.

Also,​ ​an​ ​inexpensive​ ​solder​ ​kit,​ ​from​ ​an​ ​electronics​ ​vendor​ ​(like​ ​Adafruit)​ ​can​ ​provide​ ​good
practice.​ ​ ​Try​ ​this​ ​one:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/184

Excellent​ ​advice/tutelage​ ​is​ ​available​ ​at​ ​the​ ​following​ ​website​ ​(specifically​ ​section​ ​1b-2c,​ ​but​ ​the
whole​ ​page​ ​is​ ​very​ ​good!):​ ​ ​http://www.pinrepair.com/begin/index.htm#intro2

Finally,​ ​search​ ​on​ ​YouTube​ ​to​ ​find​ ​good​ ​tutorials/examples​ ​of​ ​soldering.

23
A5.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​V​ ​-​ ​What​ ​to​ ​do​ ​if​ ​for​ ​some​ ​reason​ ​it
doesn't​ ​work?
Ok,​ ​if​ ​you're​ ​here,​ ​you​ ​might​ ​be​ ​having​ ​an​ ​issue.​ ​ ​Take​ ​a​ ​deep​ ​breath,​ ​and​ ​relax.​ ​ ​It's​ ​no
indication​ ​of​ ​doom​ ​if​ ​your​ ​project​ ​doesn't​ ​work​ ​at​ ​first​ ​power​ ​on,​ ​I​ ​promise​ ​you!​ ​ ​It's​ ​not
uncommon​ ​for​ ​the​ ​issue​ ​to​ ​be​ ​something​ ​simple​ ​(a​ ​forgotten​ ​part,​ ​an​ ​un-soldered​ ​joint,​ ​etc.)
You'll​ ​get​ ​your​ ​computer​ ​working!

First,​ ​let's​ ​start​ ​with​ ​a​ ​thorough​ ​visual​ ​inspection​ ​of​ ​the​ ​PC​ ​Board,​ ​under​ ​good​ ​light,​ ​with
magnification.​ ​ ​You're​ ​looking​ ​for​ ​missing​ ​parts,​ ​an​ ​un-soldered​ ​joint,​ ​a​ ​long,​ ​untrimmed​ ​lead
shorting​ ​on​ ​something,​ ​a​ ​bridged​ ​solder​ ​joint​ ​(too​ ​much​ ​solder​ ​on​ ​a​ ​joint,​ ​so​ ​that​ ​it​ ​is​ ​connecting
to​ ​the​ ​adjacent​ ​joint​ ​where​ ​no​ ​connection​ ​should​ ​be​ ​made).​ ​ ​Also​ ​look​ ​for​ ​a​ ​little​ ​ball​ ​of​ ​solder
that​ ​perhaps​ ​has​ ​splattered​ ​off​ ​your​ ​iron,​ ​and​ ​is​ ​shorting​ ​something.
Verify​ ​all​ ​chips​ ​and​ ​polarized​ ​components​ ​are​ ​installed​ ​in​ ​the​ ​proper​ ​orientation.​ ​ ​Verify​ ​that​ ​all
components​ ​are​ ​installed​ ​in​ ​the​ ​correct​ ​place​ ​(especially​ ​resistors-​ ​the​ ​correct​ ​value​ ​resistors
are​ ​installed​ ​in​ ​the​ ​correct​ ​place).​ ​ ​Verify​ ​that​ ​with​ ​the​ ​chips-​ ​that​ ​all​ ​legs​ ​are​ ​properly​ ​installed​ ​in
their​ ​sockets.​ ​ ​Sometimes​ ​chip​ ​pins​ ​can​ ​bend​ ​upon​ ​installation​ ​into​ ​the​ ​socket,​ ​so​ ​that​ ​they​ ​are
not​ ​making​ ​connection​ ​with​ ​the​ ​socket.

Second,​ ​if​ ​your​ ​visual​ ​inspection​ ​turned​ ​up​ ​nothing​ ​(and​ ​if​ ​the​ ​board​ ​is​ ​doing​ ​nothing,​ ​or​ ​part​ ​of
the​ ​board​ ​is​ ​doing​ ​nothing)​ ​re-verify​ ​the​ ​power​ ​supply​ ​is​ ​getting​ ​the​ ​right​ ​voltages​ ​to​ ​each
component.​ ​ ​During​ ​assembly​ ​you​ ​should​ ​have​ ​already​ ​verified​ ​your​ ​5​ ​volt​ ​rail,​ ​and​ ​3.3​ ​volt​ ​rail,
and​ ​all​ ​chip​ ​power​ ​supplies.​ ​ ​But,​ ​if​ ​you're​ ​having​ ​trouble,​ ​this​ ​step​ ​never​ ​hurts.

If​ ​you're​ ​still​ ​having​ ​trouble,​ ​go​ ​to​ ​our​ ​website​ ​(putnamelectronics.com)​ ​and​ ​shoot​ ​us​ ​an​ ​email.
We'll​ ​contact​ ​you​ ​and​ ​help​ ​you​ ​troubleshoot​ ​from​ ​there.​ ​ ​We'll​ ​get​ ​you​ ​going!

24
A6.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​VI​ ​-​ ​Interesting​ ​Tidbits​ ​About​ ​The
Chips
There​ ​are​ ​12​ ​micro-chips​ ​(not​ ​counting​ ​the​ ​2​ ​different​ ​voltage​ ​regulator​ ​packages!)​ ​in​ ​the
PE6502.

65c02​ ​microprocessor​ ​-​ ​A​ ​very​ ​popular,​ ​general-purpose​ ​8-bit​ ​microprocessor.​ ​ ​It​ ​is​ ​the​ ​currently
produced​ ​(and​ ​backwards​ ​compatible)​ ​variant​ ​of​ ​the​ ​MOS​ ​6502​ ​processor.​ ​ ​It​ ​has​ ​an​ ​8-bit​ ​data
bus​ ​and​ ​registers,​ ​and​ ​a​ ​16-bit​ ​address​ ​bus​ ​and​ ​program​ ​counter.​ ​ ​First​ ​produced​ ​(in​ ​6502​ ​form)
in​ ​1975,​ ​it​ ​(or​ ​a​ ​variant​ ​of)​ ​has​ ​been​ ​used​ ​in​ ​the​ ​following​ ​devices/computers:​ ​ ​Atari​ ​2600,​ ​Atari
400/800,​ ​Apple​ ​1/Apple​ ​II,​ ​Commodore​ ​PET/Vic-20/C-64,​ ​Nintendo​ ​Entertainment​ ​System​ ​to
name​ ​a​ ​few.

6821​ ​Peripheral​ ​Interface​ ​Adapter​ ​-​ ​First​ ​designed​ ​in​ ​the​ ​1970s​ ​to​ ​be​ ​a​ ​glueless​ ​connection​ ​to​ ​a
Motorola​ ​6800​ ​(a​ ​competing​ ​microprocessor​ ​of​ ​the​ ​same​ ​era​ ​as​ ​the​ ​6502)​ ​style​ ​bus,​ ​it​ ​provides
20​ ​Input/Output​ ​lines.​ ​ ​These​ ​lines​ ​are​ ​organized​ ​into​ ​2,​ ​8-bit,​ ​bi-directional​ ​ports​ ​(or​ ​16
individual,​ ​general-purpose​ ​Input/Output​ ​lines),​ ​and​ ​4​ ​control-lines​ ​(for​ ​hardware​ ​handshaking,
or​ ​just​ ​high/low​ ​output​ ​signals.)

62256​ ​Static​ ​Random​ ​Access​ ​Memory​ ​(RAM)​ ​-​ ​a​ ​262,144-bit​ ​device,​ ​organized​ ​as​ ​32,768​ ​(32K)
words​ ​by​ ​8-bit,​ ​asynchronous​ ​Static​ ​RAM.​ ​ ​Fabricated​ ​with​ ​highly​ ​reliable​ ​CMOS​ ​technology,
this​ ​memory​ ​is​ ​designed​ ​for​ ​low-power​ ​applications.​ ​ ​SRAM​ ​is​ ​easier​ ​to​ ​implement,​ ​as​ ​it​ ​holds​ ​it
values​ ​(while​ ​powered)​ ​without​ ​additional​ ​circuitry.​ ​ ​This​ ​is​ ​unlike​ ​Dynamic​ ​RAM​ ​(DRAM),​ ​which
was​ ​used​ ​in​ ​many​ ​8-bit​ ​computers​ ​of​ ​the​ ​past,​ ​and​ ​required​ ​additional​ ​circuitry​ ​to​ ​be​ ​"refreshed"
repeatedly​ ​to​ ​hold​ ​its​ ​contents.

27C256​ ​Read​ ​Only​ ​Memory​ ​(ROM)​ ​-​ ​a​ ​262,144-bit​ ​device,​ ​organized​ ​as​ ​32,768​ ​(32K)​ ​words​ ​by
8-bit,​ ​parallel​ ​interface​ ​Read​ ​Only​ ​Memory.​ ​ ​This​ ​device​ ​is​ ​a​ ​"One​ ​Time​ ​Programmable"​ ​(OTP),
so​ ​once​ ​it​ ​is​ ​burned,​ ​it's​ ​programmed.​ ​ ​This​ ​device​ ​holds​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​ROM​ ​programs:​ ​ ​The
WOZ​ ​monitor​ ​(this​ ​is​ ​the​ ​program​ ​that​ ​is​ ​running​ ​when​ ​you​ ​first​ ​power​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​system​ ​on),
Integer​ ​BASIC,​ ​Applesoft​ ​Lite​ ​BASIC,​ ​Krusader​ ​Assembler​ ​and​ ​debugger.

Parallax​ ​P8X32A​ ​Propeller​ ​-​ ​a​ ​modern,​ ​8-core​ ​microcontroller.​ ​ ​Each​ ​core​ ​(called​ ​a​ ​Cog)​ ​is​ ​a
32-bit,​ ​reduced​ ​instruction​ ​set​ ​computer​ ​(RISC)​ ​CPU,​ ​designed​ ​to​ ​share​ ​common​ ​shared
memory.​ ​ ​In​ ​2014,​ ​Parallax​ ​released​ ​the​ ​Propeller​ ​hardware​ ​and​ ​software​ ​tools​ ​as​ ​open-source
under​ ​GNU​ ​public​ ​license.​ ​ ​This​ ​incredibly​ ​versatile​ ​chip​ ​serves​ ​as​ ​an​ ​onboard​ ​terminal,​ ​and
display​ ​on​ ​the​ ​PE6502.​ ​ ​It​ ​can​ ​do​ ​MUCH​ ​more!​ ​ ​Parallax​ ​Propellers​ ​have​ ​been​ ​the​ ​basis​ ​of
entire​ ​hobbyist​ ​computers,​ ​and​ ​can​ ​even​ ​emulate​ ​other​ ​computers​ ​and​ ​devices,​ ​such​ ​as​ ​the
Commodore​ ​SID​ ​sound​ ​chip.

25
24LC256P​ ​Serial​ ​Electrically​ ​Erasable​ ​Programmable​ ​Read​ ​Only​ ​Memory​ ​-​ ​This​ ​device​ ​serves
as​ ​onboard,​ ​electrically​ ​erasable​ ​and​ ​reprogrammable​ ​ROM​ ​memory​ ​for​ ​the​ ​Parallax​ ​Propeller.
This​ ​is​ ​a​ ​standard​ ​ROM​ ​device​ ​frequently​ ​paired​ ​with​ ​the​ ​Parallax​ ​Propeller.

MAX232​ ​RS232​ ​Transceiver​ ​-​ ​created​ ​in​ ​1987,​ ​this​ ​device​ ​converts​ ​signals​ ​from​ ​a​ ​RS-232
standard​ ​serial​ ​port,​ ​to​ ​Transistor-Transistor​ ​Logic​ ​(TTL)​ ​signals​ ​that​ ​can​ ​be​ ​used​ ​to​ ​interface
directly​ ​with​ ​other​ ​microchips​ ​in​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​computer.​ ​ ​Part​ ​of​ ​this​ ​package​ ​converts​ ​the​ ​TTL
signals​ ​used​ ​onboard​ ​the​ ​computer​ ​to​ ​the​ ​7.5​ ​volt​ ​signals​ ​needed​ ​for​ ​serial​ ​communications​ ​off
the​ ​board​ ​(part​ ​of​ ​the​ ​RS-232​ ​standard.)

LM555N​ ​Timer​ ​-​ ​created​ ​in​ ​1972,​ ​this​ ​classic​ ​integrated​ ​circuit​ ​has​ ​been​ ​used​ ​in​ ​literally
thousands​ ​of​ ​applications.​ ​ ​It​ ​can​ ​serve​ ​as​ ​a​ ​timer,​ ​a​ ​pulse​ ​generator,​ ​an​ ​oscillator,​ ​a​ ​flip-flop,
you​ ​name​ ​it!​ ​ ​It​ ​is​ ​used​ ​in​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​computer​ ​to​ ​hold​ ​the​ ​65c02​ ​CPU​ ​in​ ​reset​ ​mode​ ​when​ ​the
power​ ​is​ ​first​ ​switched​ ​on,​ ​long​ ​enough​ ​for​ ​the​ ​Propeller​ ​chip​ ​to​ ​download​ ​and​ ​start​ ​executing​ ​its
terminal​ ​emulator​ ​code.​ ​ ​Then​ ​the​ ​555​ ​timer​ ​allows​ ​the​ ​65c02​ ​to​ ​boot.​ ​ ​The​ ​65c02​ ​would
otherwise​ ​boot​ ​before​ ​the​ ​terminal,​ ​and​ ​would​ ​require​ ​a​ ​manual​ ​CPU​ ​reset​ ​before​ ​the​ ​PE6502
computer​ ​was​ ​ready​ ​to​ ​use.

7400​ ​Quad​ ​2-input​ ​NAND​ ​gate​ ​-​ ​the​ ​7400​ ​Transistor-Transistor​ ​Logic​ ​(TTL)​ ​chip​ ​package
contains​ ​4,​ ​2-input​ ​NAND​ ​gates.​ ​ ​This​ ​is​ ​used​ ​as​ ​part​ ​of​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​"GLUE"​ ​logic,​ ​so​ ​that​ ​when
a​ ​specific​ ​address​ ​is​ ​selected​ ​in​ ​ROM,​ ​the​ ​ROM​ ​chip​ ​is​ ​selected​ ​and​ ​put​ ​on​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​data
bus.​ ​ ​It​ ​is​ ​also​ ​used​ ​in​ ​the​ ​RAM​ ​Read/Write​ ​control​ ​circuit.

7404​ ​Hex​ ​Inverter​ ​-​ ​the​ ​7404​ ​Transistor-Transistor​ ​Logic​ ​(TTL)​ ​chip​ ​package​ ​contains​ ​6,​ ​single
input,​ ​single​ ​output​ ​inverter​ ​gates.​ ​ ​This​ ​is​ ​used​ ​as​ ​part​ ​of​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​"GLUE"​ ​logic,​ ​so​ ​that
when​ ​a​ ​specific​ ​address​ ​is​ ​selected​ ​in​ ​ROM,​ ​the​ ​ROM​ ​chip​ ​is​ ​selected​ ​and​ ​put​ ​on​ ​the​ ​PE6502
data​ ​bus.​ ​ ​It​ ​is​ ​also​ ​used​ ​in​ ​the​ ​CPU​ ​reset​ ​circuit,​ ​and​ ​the​ ​PIA​ ​circuit.

7432​ ​Quad​ ​2-input​ ​OR​ ​gate​ ​-​ ​Transistor-Transistor​ ​Logic​ ​(TTL)​ ​chip​ ​package​ ​contains​ ​4,​ ​2-input
OR​ ​gates.​ ​ ​This​ ​is​ ​used​ ​as​ ​part​ ​of​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​"GLUE"​ ​logic,​ ​so​ ​that​ ​when​ ​a​ ​specific​ ​address​ ​is
selected​ ​in​ ​ROM,​ ​the​ ​ROM​ ​chip​ ​is​ ​selected​ ​and​ ​put​ ​on​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​data​ ​bus.

74138​ ​3-line​ ​to​ ​8-line​ ​Decoder/Demultiplexer​ ​-​ ​Transistor-Transistor​ ​Logic​ ​(TTL)​ ​chip​ ​package
contains​ ​4,​ ​2-input​ ​NAND​ ​gates.​ ​ ​This​ ​is​ ​used​ ​as​ ​part​ ​of​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​"GLUE"​ ​logic,​ ​so​ ​that​ ​when
a​ ​specific​ ​address​ ​is​ ​selected​ ​in​ ​ROM,​ ​the​ ​ROM​ ​chip​ ​is​ ​selected​ ​and​ ​put​ ​on​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​data
bus.

26
A7.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​VII​ ​-​ ​How​ ​to​ ​"flash"​ ​the​ ​Propeller​ ​SW
This​ ​section​ ​will​ ​walk​ ​you​ ​through​ ​how​ ​to​ ​"flash"​ ​(or​ ​reprogram)​ ​the​ ​Parallax​ ​Propeller​ ​ROM,​ ​so
that​ ​you​ ​can​ ​save​ ​customizations​ ​to​ ​the​ ​Parallax​ ​Propeller​ ​terminal​ ​firmware,​ ​and​ ​also​ ​so​ ​that
you​ ​will​ ​know​ ​how​ ​to​ ​upgrade​ ​the​ ​PR6502​ ​terminal​ ​firmware​ ​should​ ​a​ ​newer​ ​version​ ​of​ ​the
firmware​ ​be​ ​released.

a)​ ​ ​Ensure​ ​you've​ ​installed​ ​"Propeller​ ​Tools"​ ​on​ ​your​ ​host​ ​computer​ ​that​ ​you​ ​use​ ​to​ ​connect​ ​to
your​ ​PE6502​ ​via​ ​serial​ ​interface.​ ​ ​To​ ​download​ ​Propeller​ ​Tools,​ ​navigate​ ​to​ ​the​ ​Parallax
website,​ ​P8X32A-D40​ ​Propeller​ ​support​ ​page​ ​(https://www.parallax.com/product/p8x32a-d40),
and​ ​download​ ​Propeller​ ​Tool​ ​Software​ ​(for​ ​Windows),​ ​and​ ​also​ ​the​ ​Parallax​ ​Serial​ ​Terminal.
Install​ ​these​ ​on​ ​your​ ​Windows​ ​machine​ ​(Use​ ​this​ ​link​ ​to​ ​download​ ​the​ ​MacOS​ ​version​ ​if​ ​you​ ​use
Mac:​ ​ ​https://www.parallax.com/downloads/propelleride-software-mac;​ ​Use​ ​this​ ​link​ ​to​ ​download
the​ ​Linux​ ​version​ ​if​ ​you​ ​use​ ​Linux:
https://www.parallax.com/downloads/propelleride-software-linux)
b)​ ​ ​Ensure​ ​your​ ​serial​ ​port​ ​is​ ​connecting​ ​your​ ​PE6502​ ​to​ ​your​ ​host​ ​computer​ ​where​ ​you've
installed​ ​Propeller​ ​Tools.​ ​ ​Verify​ ​that​ ​the​ ​Propeller​ ​Tools​ ​is​ ​able​ ​to​ ​talk​ ​to​ ​the​ ​PE6502's​ ​Propeller
(the​ ​PE6502​ ​must​ ​be​ ​powered​ ​on!)​ ​using​ ​the​ ​Propeller​ ​Tools​ ​Run​ ​menu​ ​->​ ​"Identify
Hardware..."​ ​menu​ ​setting.​ ​ ​This​ ​should​ ​confirm​ ​the​ ​Propeller​ ​device​ ​found/available.​ ​ ​If​ ​not,
double​ ​check​ ​that​ ​your​ ​PE6502​ ​is​ ​powered​ ​on,​ ​and​ ​that​ ​your​ ​serial​ ​interface​ ​is​ ​connected​ ​and
properly​ ​installed.
c)​ ​ ​Ensure​ ​you​ ​have​ ​all​ ​required​ ​".spin"​ ​files​ ​(the​ ​"Top"​ ​spin​ ​is​ ​the​ ​main​ ​Propeller​ ​program,​ ​and
any​ ​Object​ ​.spin​ ​files​ ​that​ ​the​ ​top​ ​spin​ ​references)​ ​in​ ​the​ ​same​ ​directory.​ ​ ​Open​ ​the​ ​Top​ ​spin​ ​file,
using​ ​the​ ​Propeller​ ​Tools​ ​File​ ​menu​ ​->​ ​"Open..."​ ​ ​Browse​ ​to​ ​your​ ​Top​ ​.spin​ ​file,​ ​select​ ​it,​ ​and
click​ ​"Open"
d)​ ​ ​Confirm​ ​the​ ​Top​ ​.spin​ ​file​ ​you've​ ​selected​ ​is​ ​open​ ​in​ ​the​ ​Propeller​ ​Tools​ ​editor,​ ​and​ ​then
select​ ​from​ ​the​ ​Run​ ​menu​ ​->​ ​Compile​ ​Current​ ​->​ ​"Load​ ​EEPROM"​ ​ ​You​ ​should​ ​see​ ​status​ ​as
the​ ​Propeller​ ​.spin​ ​code​ ​is​ ​compiled,​ ​loaded​ ​to​ ​the​ ​Propeller​ ​RAM,​ ​and​ ​finally​ ​programmed​ ​into
the​ ​Propeller's​ ​24LC256P​ ​ROM​ ​chip.
e)​ ​ ​Verify​ ​a​ ​success​ ​message​ ​is​ ​received.​ ​ ​Your​ ​Propeller​ ​has​ ​now​ ​been​ ​"flashed"!

27
A8.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​VIII​ ​-​ ​Where​ ​To​ ​Get​ ​More
Info/Important​ ​Links
Putnam​ ​Electronics​ ​website:
putnamelectronics.com

Suggested​ ​Serial​ ​adaptor,​ ​Tera​ ​Term​ ​serial​ ​terminal​ ​software,​ ​power​ ​supply,​ ​etc.:
http://www.usconverters.com/usb-serial-rs232-adapters
https://ttssh2.osdn.jp/
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Gravitech/9V1A-21-POS-WALL/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvq007EO%252
bXAYafurk4XukHd

electronics​ ​supplies:
http://www.mouser.com/
https://www.digikey.com/
http://www.jameco.com/
https://www.adafruit.com/

Programming​ ​Guides/Websites:
https://skilldrick.github.io/easy6502/
https://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/6502_Assembly
http://www.sbprojects.com/projects/apple1/develop.php
http://www.willegal.net/appleii/apple1-software.htm

Krusader​ ​Specific:
http://manualzz.com/doc/6691677/replica-1-krusader---user-manual

Integer​ ​BASIC​ ​Specific:

http://www.woz.org/letters/apple-basic

Applesoft​ ​Lite​ ​Specific:

https://cowgod.org/replica1/applesoft/

Apple​ ​1​ ​Manuals​ ​(helpful​ ​for​ ​monitor,​ ​and​ ​integer​ ​BASIC:

http://www.sbprojects.com/projects/apple1/download.php

6502​ ​Specific:​ ​ ​(Go​ ​to​ ​documents​ ​section​ ​for​ ​datasheets!)

http://6502.org/

Parallax​ ​Propeller​ ​Specific:

http://forums.parallax.com/categories/65
http://obex.parallax.com/
https://www.parallax.com/downloads/p8x32a-propeller-datasheet

28
A9.​ ​ ​Appendix​ ​VIV​ ​-​ ​Acknowledgements
I’d​ ​like​ ​to​ ​thank​ ​some​ ​people,​ ​(listed​ ​in​ ​no​ ​particular​ ​order,)​ ​without​ ​whom​ ​this​ ​project​ ​would​ ​not
have​ ​been​ ​possible:

You-​ ​the​ ​customer​ ​for​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​computer.

Ben​ ​Heckendorn​ ​-​ ​who’s​ ​show​ ​(available​ ​on​ ​Element​ ​14​ ​and​ ​also​ ​YouTube)​ ​first​ ​inspired​ ​the
idea​ ​that​ ​it​ ​would​ ​be​ ​possible​ ​to​ ​build​ ​a​ ​simple​ ​6502​ ​based​ ​computer.

Vince​ ​Briel​ ​-​ ​Vince’s​ ​work​ ​has​ ​inspired​ ​me​ ​to​ ​no​ ​end.​ ​ ​The​ ​original​ ​purveyor​ ​of​ ​high-quality​ ​kits,
blending​ ​vintage-inspired​ ​computers​ ​with​ ​modern​ ​tech,​ ​into​ ​low​ ​cost​ ​and​ ​easy​ ​to​ ​assemble
products.

Steve​ ​“Woz”​ ​Wozniak​ ​-​ ​Woz’s​ ​write-up​ ​in​ ​the​ ​forward​ ​section​ ​of​ ​Tom​ ​Owad’s​ ​“Apple​ ​1​ ​Replica
Creation​ ​-​ ​Back​ ​to​ ​the​ ​Garage”​ ​made​ ​me​ ​realize​ ​that​ ​a​ ​single​ ​person​ ​really​ ​can​ ​understand​ ​a
computer,​ ​and​ ​design​ ​their​ ​own.​ ​ ​His​ ​simple​ ​monitor​ ​program,​ ​and​ ​Integer​ ​BASIC​ ​are​ ​marvels​ ​of
functionality,​ ​simplicity,​ ​and​ ​space​ ​efficiency.

Jeff​ ​Tranter​ ​-​ ​Jeff’s​ ​YouTube​ ​channel​ ​first​ ​made​ ​me​ ​aware​ ​of​ ​electronics​ ​kits,​ ​both​ ​Heathkit​ ​and
also​ ​Briel​ ​Computers.​ ​ ​His​ ​awesome​ ​presentation​ ​of​ ​the​ ​subject​ ​matter​ ​showed​ ​what​ ​was
possible​ ​with​ ​these​ ​kits​ ​once​ ​they​ ​were​ ​built.​ ​ ​They​ ​are​ ​usable​ ​machines​ ​with​ ​a​ ​huge​ ​library​ ​of
vintage​ ​software!

Costas​ ​Skordis​ ​-​ ​Con’s​ ​interest​ ​in​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​inspired​ ​me​ ​to​ ​pull​ ​the​ ​project​ ​off​ ​the​ ​shelf​ ​and
finish​ ​it/make​ ​it​ ​available​ ​to​ ​others.​ ​ ​Con​ ​was​ ​a​ ​fearless​ ​test-pilot,​ ​the​ ​first​ ​person​ ​to​ ​actually
assemble​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​PC​ ​board​ ​(all​ ​that​ ​existed​ ​previously​ ​was​ ​the​ ​breadboard​ ​prototype!)
Con​ ​also​ ​contributed​ ​heavily​ ​to​ ​the​ ​Propeller​ ​firmware​ ​used​ ​in​ ​the​ ​PE6502,​ ​adding​ ​fast​ ​serial
connection​ ​with​ ​handshake,​ ​and​ ​helpful​ ​serial​ ​connection​ ​indicators​ ​to​ ​the​ ​software,​ ​adding
colors,​ ​etc.

Ken​ ​Wessen​ ​-​ ​Ken’s​ ​Krusader​ ​assembler​ ​and​ ​debugger​ ​are​ ​featured​ ​in​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​system
ROM,​ ​gave​ ​us​ ​permission​ ​to​ ​include​ ​this​ ​software.​ ​ ​Ken’s​ ​software​ ​is​ ​efficient,​ ​and​ ​adds​ ​great
functionality​ ​to​ ​this​ ​computer.

Tom​ ​Greene​ ​-​ ​Tom’s​ ​“AppleSoft​ ​Lite”​ ​BASIC​ ​works​ ​well​ ​with​ ​the​ ​PE6502​ ​computer,​ ​is​ ​originally
from​ ​dis-assembled​ ​Apple​ ​II​ ​code.​ ​ ​Tom​ ​then​ ​removed​ ​the​ ​Apple​ ​II​ ​specific​ ​code​ ​removed,​ ​and
added​ ​his​ ​own​ ​code.

29