QUESTION BANK

FP (Tech) - II
Subject: Fabric Science for Apparel – II (Knits, nonwovens, Processing)
PART A

Q1. Fill in the blanks

I. India is the second largest producer of ____________ fibre. (cotton/jute)

II. Sizing is normally used for _______ yarns. (warp/weft)
III. Knitted fabrics stretch _____________than woven fabrics. (more/less)
IV. Pattern of interlacement of warp and weft is known as ___________. (weaving/knitting)
V. ____________ dyes forms covalent bond with cellulose in presence of salt and
alkali.(reactive /direct)
VI. Vat dyes are water____________ dyes.(soluble/insoluble)
VII. ___________is the product of courses per unit length and Wales per unit length.(Stitch
density/ knitting density)

Q2. State whether True or False

I. Knitted fabrics are produced through needle punching.

II. Common salt (NaCl) is used as exhausting agents in reactive dyeing.
III. Acid dye can be applied on silk and wool fibres.
IV. Sodium alginate thickener is used in reactive printing.
V. Turmeric, tea, marigold, indigo are the examples of natural dyes.
VI. Expanded term for AATCC is American Association for textile Chemists and Colorists.
VII. Pigments are color particles which are soluble in water.
VIII. Reactive dyed fabrics have a poor fastness to chlorine.

Q3. Match the following. (1X10 = 10 marks)

a) Absorbency i) Moisture Regain

b) Needle punch nonwoven ii) Dry laid non woven
c) Disperse Dye iii) Polyester fabric
d) Alum iv) Mordant
e) loops that are inter-connected v) course
widthwise

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 f) EPI & PPI vi) Construction of the fabric
g) Good wrinkle resistance vii) Knitting

PART B
A. State the differences between Knitted fabrics vs. Woven fabrics.
 Knit fabrics are usually soft and drape well.
 It mold and move easily with body movement.
 Its ability of stretching is good.
 It has good wrinkle resistance as compared to woven fabric.
 More breathable
 Cannot be torn easily
 Only one yarn is reqd. to make loops, etc.
B. Write down the difference between warp knitting and weft knitting?

C. What is needle punching method in non-woven? Explain with suitable examples.

Fibres which have no directional frictional properties and need to be mechanically
entangled in order to form felts.
This is done using barbed needles.
The products of needle felting are used for carpets, under felts, upholstery, and
blankets.

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 The barbed needle tangles together some fibres from each layer of the web to make a
stronger web.
D. What are the reasons for Textile Testing & Inspection for textile fabrics.
To understand the specific needs of the customer
To assess whether a particular fabric is suitable for a specific end use
To evaluate fabrics from vendor against the required specifications
To help the technical team overcome problems in manufacturing & processing a
fabric.

E. Why Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is known as universal bleaching agent?

• H2O2 has proved to be a universal bleaching agent because of the following
reasons.
• H2O2 can be used for bleaching cotton, wool, silk, jute, etc.
• The consumption of water is economical in hydrogen peroxide bleaching.
• The number of operators and thus the labour cost is less but the chemical cost
is high.
• Superior whiteness can be achieved in H2O2 bleaching.
• Material bleached with H2O2 is more absorbent.
• When coloured goods are to be bleached, H2O2 is the better bleaching agent.
• H2O2 bleaching is much safer from the point of chemical degradation of cotton
during bleaching.
• Continuous scouring and bleaching using hydrogen peroxide can be done in a
single operation on a continuous bleaching machine.
• There is hardly any tendency of peroxide-bleached goods to yellow on storage,
as it does with hypochlorite-bleached material.

F. What is the objective pretreatment?

Any treatment given to a substrate to remove natural or added impurities before
dyeing or finishing is called Pretreatment.

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 It can be carried out in any form i.e. loose fibres, yarn, knits, woven, terry towels or
garments.
Uniformity of effects (no spots), levelness
b) What is the objective pretreatment?
High absorbency
Freedom from size
High degree of whiteness
High dye absorbing power
c)Explain the process sequence in brief.

G. Write down the advantages and limitations of natural dyeing?

Advantages: No health hazards
Safe & compatible with environment
Medicinal & curative properties
Eco-friendly and have better biodegradability
Higher compatibility with environment
Waste material is used for the manufacture of compost
They are non-toxic & non allergic, hazard free for skin.
Limitations of the natural dyes that were responsible for their decline are:
Availability
Colour yield
Complexity in dying process
Reproducibility of shade
Technical drawbacks of natural dyes:
Allow only wool, natural silk and cotton to be dyed
Non standardized
Inadequate degree of fixation and Inadequate fastness properties
Water pollution by heavy metals

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 Non availability of standard shade cards, precise and specific ways of applications &
standard norms

H. Explain any three defects in Dyeing and three defects in Printing?

Any three dyeing defects:
(Bleeding, Crocking, Migration, Tendering, listing, horizontal bands, center to selvage3
variation, selvage to selvage variation, patchy dyeing, specks in dyeing, frosting,
shade variation/ off shade, colour flare, uneven dyeing, tailing, colour fading, rope
marks etc.)
Any three Printing defects:
(Out of register, miss print, no print, crease marks, shifting of loose yarns or fibre ends
on fabric after printing, colour splash, staing of back ground, colour smudging, wet
marks, off grain prints, off shade, bands, vertical colour streaks due to damage of
doctor blade etc.)

I. Explain the terms related to dyeing:

a) Substantivity / Affinity :It is the attraction between the dye and the fibre at given
dyeing condition. Indicates the ability of the dye to go from the solution phase to the
fibre
b) Exhaustion Percentage : Proportion of dye that has moved from the solution to the
fibre
c) Material to Liquor Ration (M:L Ratio): This ratio refers to the ratio of the weight of fibre
to be dyed and the volume of the dye bath.
Example: M:L ratio for dyeing a particular dye / fabric means for 1 Kg of dry fibre /
fabric a dye bath of 10 Litres is required to acquire a particular shade
d) Shade Percentage: It can be defined as the quantity of dye taken for dyeing expressed
as the percentage of the dry weight of the fibre/fabric/yarn to be dyed
Shade % = (Quantity of dye in grams / Dry weight of fibre/fabric/yarn to be dyed) x
100%
e) Fixation percentage:

J. If a material is to be dyed for a shade % of 5%; how much dye powder is required to be
added in the dye bath? The weight of the material is 10gm and the M:L ratio is 1:20
The volume of the dye liquor = 20 x 10 ml = 200 ml
i.e. 5 = Weight of dye in gms x 100 / Wt of fibre
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 Or, Weight of dye required in gms = 5 x 10 / 100 = 0.5 gms

K. Explain mechanism of dyeing with suitable diagram.

Adsorption of dyestuff on fibre surface
Diffusion of the dyestuff through the internal structure of the fibre
Fixation of dye molecule

L. What is colour fastness of fabric. Write down the different fastness testing methods in
brief,
Colour fastness is a term that describes the propensity of an article to change or lose
colour when treated in a certain way.
Colour fastness is usually assessed separately w.r.t. :
Change in colour of the specimen being tested, that is colour fading
Staining of undyed material which attaches to the specimen during the test, that is
bleeding of colour
Colour fastness testing

– Colour Fastness to crocking / rubbing : in detail write up

– Colour Fastness to washing : in detail write up
– Colour Fastness to light : in detail write up
– Colour Fastness to Saliva
– Colour Fastness to chlorine bleach
– Colour Fastness to water
– Colour Fastness to Perspiration

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M. Explain in brief dyeing procedure, methods and mechanism of dyeing of cotton fabric
with direct dye and reactive dye?

• When cotton is immersed in a solution of a direct dye the following mechanism takes
place
– Adsorpsion
• Dye molecules move towards the fibre
• Get adsorbed on the fibre surface
– Absorpsion or penetration
• Adsorbed dye penetrate inside the fibre structure
• Gradually penetrate or ‘diffuse’ inside the structure
• Rate of penetration depends on the molecular structure of the dye and
dyeing condition
• Greater the penetration of the dye in the fibre, better and brighter is the
dyeing
– Fixation
• Fixation takes place by means of hydrogen bonds and vanderwaals
forces of attraction

Reactive dyeing:

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 Reactive dyes are not so long as that of direct dyes
Easy penetration
Good levelling
Good washing fastness
Formation of covalent bond between dye and fibre occurs in alkaline condition

N. Explain with suitable diagram industrial process of dyeing with any suitable machine.
Jigger dyeing machine

• A V-shaped stainless steel vessel containing dye liquor

• Have a pair of upper guide roll, an immersion roll and two draw rolls to pull the fabric
through the dye liquor
• The liquor is heated with the help of a steam pipe at the bottom of the jigger
• The fabric has been drawn from one roller to another roller for several cycle until
sufficient dyeing takes place
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 • The forward and backward travel of the fabric enables it to pick up more and more dye
liquor
• After dyeing is over the dye liquor is run out from the vessel and filled with cold water
for rinsing
• The fabric is dyed in open width form
• The M:L ratio in a jigger is usually about 1:5 or less

O. State the differences between Knitted fabrics vs. Woven fabrics.

P. What is a needle punching method in non-woven? Explain with suitable diagram.
Q. Elaborate the significance of textile testing and Inspection in textiles.
R. What is the objective of pretreatment? Why Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is known as -
‘Universal Bleaching Agent’?
S. Write down the advantages and limitations of natural dyes over synthetic dyes.
T. Briefly discuss the following terms as - rubbing fastness measurement, washing
fastness measurement and light fastness measurement.

PART C
A. Write a short note on non-woven fabrics and various applications of non-woven fabric.
 Fabric basically made of web of fibres and not of yarns
 Web may be made of staple fibres, filaments or films
 Yarn manufacture process eliminated
 Higher speed of production
 Less labour intensive
 Low energy requirement
 Higher degree of automation
 Fabrics can be engineered to give a wide variety of properties
 However their aesthetic properties are such that they are not in direct competition with
conventional fabrics in apparel applications
 Main areas of growth of nonwovens are in technical textile applications like
geotextiles, filtration textiles, medical textiles etc.

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B. Elaborate on classification of all dyes used in textiles with respect to their solubility,
method of application and chemical constitution.
C. Explain briefly the process of knitting and with the help of diagram what the types of
needle used in Knitting.
D. Give any five fabric properties of warp knitted fabric.
E. Define the terms Course, wales and loop length with sketch.
F. Difference between dyeing and printing?

Dyeing Printing

1. Colouration of fabric is 2. Colouration is carried out

carried out uniformly in localized manner
2. Colouration takes place 3. Colour is located mainly on
uniformly on both sides face side of the fabric
3. In case of dyeing we don’t 4. there is possibility of
have the opportunity of applying more than one
multicolor dyeing colour onto the fabric at a
time
4. Medium of application is of 5. medium of application is of
low viscosity high viscosity.

G. Write briefly the Direct style, Discharge style and resist styles of printing.

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 Direct Style: Printing on light coloured ground of fabric using dark colours.
Application of colour where pattern is required, single stage printing on dyed
backgrounds of light colours or un dyed fabrics
 Discharge Style: Light colour patterns against dark coloured back grounds,
Two stage process, Fabric dyed first using dischargeable dyes as ground and
printing with discharging/ reducing agents which remove colourin the form of
patterns from the dyed fabric producing white colour discharge, Non dischargeable
dyes, which are compatible with the discharging agent can be printed on
dischargeable grounds to produce colour discharge effects. Expensive. Good
depth of shade in printed fabric due to printing on dyed ground
 Resist Style: Light colour patterns against dark coloured back grounds, Two stage
process, Fabric printed first using resisting chemicals and then dyedusing dark/
bright colours. The chemical resist applied in the form of pattern does not allow the
dye solution to penetrate/react thereby allowing the dyes to react only with the
background leaving white patterns where resist is applied. Dyes, which are
compatible with the resisting agent, can be mixed with the resist print paste to
produce colour while resisting the dyes. Expensive. Good depth of shade in printed
fabric due to printing of pattern and dyeing of ground.
H. Discuss the manufacturing process and various applications of non-woven fabrics.
I. Elaborate on the classification of dyes used in textiles. Write down the different types of
chemical bond formation between different dyes with textile fibres.
J. Explain briefly the process of knitting and also explain briefly the different types of
needle used in Knitting (with relevant diagram).
K. What is the difference between ‘dyeing and printing’? Explain with suitable diagram any
one industrial process of dyeing or printing with relevant machinery.

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