Product Analysis & Development

FINAL SUBMISSION
Sleeveless shirt with cap

​ ​Harsh
Raj
Ravikant
TESTING & RESULTS
About the T-shirt

1. Fabric Type- Knitted

2. Fabric layer-one

3. Sewing thread- white,merging with the garment

4. Trims-0

5. Stretch- 3way minimum at vertical, moderate at diagonal maximum at horizontal

6. Type of Knitting- single jersey for front,back and sleeves and double jersey for ribs

7. CPI-56

8. WPI-45

9. Yarn type -2 ply staple yarn

10.
Burning Test

Observation.

● Self burning.

● Yellow flame

● Grey smoke

● Glow after the flame

● Burning paper smell

● Soft and crumbled ash left after burning

Conclusion.

● Cellulosic and natural fiber

● Cotton content

● Mixture of spandex
Abrasion testing:

Aim:

This test method covers the determination of the resistance to abrasion of knitted garments using the
Martindale abrasion tester.

Summary of Test Method​ :

The fabric specimen is measured by subjecting the garment to rubbing motion in the form of a straight
line.

Mterial used:

Martindale Abrasion Tester, with the following items:

1. Abradant TrizactTM4
2. Press Cutters6, 140 + 1mm (5.5 + .06 in.) in diameter.
3. Template DWith a diameter of 130 + 2 mm (5 + .0625 in.), a template is prepared to measure
the abrasion testing area of the garment.
4. China Marker -the China Marker is used to mark the abrasion testing area around the template.
5. Toothbrush- medium bristle toothbrush is suggested for use of removing pills during abrasion
testing.
Tensile strength testing;

Aim:

The tensile properties such as tensile strength which is measured as breaking force in Newton (N) and
elongation percent (%) at break of single jersey and 1×1 rib (knitted with full needles) knitted fabrics
made from 100% cotton and cotton/Lycra yarns (5% Lycra yarn content in 95% combed cotton yarn) are
investigated in this research. The sample fabrics are conditioned for 24 hours at 20 ± 1∘ C temperature
and 65 ± 2% relative humidity before testing

Method:
Pendulum method

Apparatus and Material

Pendulum fabric tear strength tester (Figure ), steel ruler, scissors, a few pieces of fabric, etc.

figure Elmendorf Tearing Tester

Test principle:
The sample is fixed in fixture, with a cut on it. The pendulum in the position of max potential energy
is released. When the movable clamps leave the fixture, the sample is torn along the notch. And the
work that torn fabric makes in a certain length is converted to tear strength.
Test method:
a) Sample preparation

The sample is cut randomly in at least 3m from cloth edge, the length of which is no less than 1m.
Got two sets of sample, and one is warp sample and the other is weft sample. Figure 2 shows the
size of samples.

figure

b) Test procedure

● Pendulum’s quality is chosen to make sample test results fall in the range of 15%~85% of
corresponding ruler. The zero position of machine should be calibrated, and pendulum is rose
to the starting point.
● The sample is clamped in the fixture. The long side of sample is parallel to top of fixture, while
its bottom is placed in the base of the fixture. The opposite side of the groove is cut a notch of
20mm×0.5mm by a knife, leaving a tear length of 43mm×0.5mm.
● Push “Stop”, and release the pendulum. When pendulum makes a backswing, you should grasp
the pendulum to prevent the pointer position from damaging.
● Read out data from measuring device, and ensure at least 5 times’ measurements in each
direction.
Colour fastness testing

Aim:

Rubbing ​color fastness​ refers to the ability to sustain original color of dyed fabrics when rubbing. Dry
rubbing color fastness refers to the situation of fading and staining of dyed fabric when rubbed with a
standard white cloth. Wet rubbing color fastness refers to the situation of fading and staining of
dyed ​fabric​ when rubbed with a standard white cloth which water content is 95% to 105%. The
evaluation of Rubbing color fastness depends on the degree of staining of white cloth. After testing, the
white cloth is compared to staining sample cards to measure staining fastness. Rubbing color fastness,
same as washing color fastness, divide into 5 grades and 9 files, among which grade 5 is the best and
grade 1 is the worst.

Preparation of Test

Apparatus and Materials

1. Electronic Crockmeter
2. Gray Cards Evaluating Staining
3. Standard Cotton adjacent fabric (50mm*50mm uses to circular friction head; 25mm*100mm
uses to rectangular friction head),
4. Sample to be Tested
Testing Method

Sample Preparation

Choose sample’s position carefully and let every color rubbing. If the area of each color is large enough,
must prepare two groups of samples with no less than 50mm*200mm, and each group contains two
samples. One group is the length direction of samples is paralleled to warp yarn, used to dry rubbing and
wet rubbing in warp direction; the other is the longitudinal direction of samples is paralleled to weft
yarn, used to dry rubbing and wet rubbing in weft direction.

Operating Procedure

● Rubbing cloth should adopt cotton semi-finished fabrics which have been desized, scoured,
bleached and do not contain any finishing agent.

● Tested sample is fixed on bottom floor of tester by clamping device, and its length direction is in
accordance with movement direction of tester.

● Dry rubbing cloth is fixed on friction head of tester, and the warp direction of it is in accordance
with movement direction of friction head.

● Press Start Switch, reciprocating rub for 10 times in 10s (reciprocating movement is 100mm,
vertical pressure is 9N), then take the dry rubbing cloth off.
 ● Taking another rubbing cloth, and rolling it on rolling fluid device after soaked in cool water, to
make moisture content controlled in 95% to 105%.

● To do the above operation of dry rubbing cloth repeatedly. When rubbing is finished, dry it at
room temperature.

● Using gray cards evaluating staining to measure the staining fastness of above dry and wet
rubbing cloths.

Pilling test

Aim:

To determine the resistance to pilling and change in appearance of apparel fabrics​.

Apparatus

1. I.C.I. pill box lined with standard cork 3.2mm thick

Internal dimensions before lining 235mm
Speed 60 ± 2 rpm
2. 4 x Moulded Polyurethane Pilling Tubes
(Dimensions: 140mm long x 31.5mm external diameter, mass 52.25 + 1.0g.)
3. 2 Pronged Sample Jig
4. Specimen Template 125mm Square
5. Lockstitch Sewing Machine
6. White P.V.C insulating tape, 19mm wide
7. Pilling Assessment Viewer
8. Dark room or curtained off area
9. Soft brush/Small Hand Held Vacuum Cleaner
10. Standard maintenance fabric
Preparation of the samples

1. -Do not use the fabric within 5cm of the selvedge.

2. -The fabric is washed and dried, or dry cleaned as per the appropriate performance standard
3. The cleansing process can affect the appearance of fabrics by causing fuzzing or pilling. To
ensure that undue changes do not occur the pilling sample must only be washed with samples
that are of a similar construction.
4. All knitwear must be washed as a double layer composite sample with the face of the fabric on
the inside of the sample.
5. Make an assessment of the original fabric to the washed or dry cleaned fabric before
commencing the pilling test
6. Describe the change in appearance as:
Slight fuzzing or pilling
`Moderate fuzzing or pilling
Severe fuzzing or pilling
7. Use the template to prepare 4 specimens 125mm square. Prepare 2 in each direction, so that
they do not contain the same set of warp and weft threads. Mark through one of the slots in
the template to give a line 12mm from the cut edge.
8. Place a line on the reverse of each sample indicating the warp/wales direction before taking
from the main piece.
9. Fold the specimens in half, face to face. Sew a 12mm seam parallel to the fold along the marked
line.
10. Turn the 4 specimens face outwards.
11. Trim all specimens at each end to give a finished length of 113mm.
12. Mount the specimens onto the polyurethane tubes as follows:-

Collapse the tube onto the 2 pronged jig.

Push the metal sleeve over at least three quarters of the tube.
Slide the specimen over the metal sleeve and partially onto the exposed part of the tube,
ensuring that the seam is open.
 Leave approximately 12mm of tube uncovered by fabric, to allow the tape to secure the fabric
to the tube.
Hold the specimen whilst pulling off the metal sleeve. This action will release the tube from the
jig (the specimen should fit firmly onto the tube so there is no movement of fabric on the tube
during the test).
Apply the PVC tape around each end of the specimen, so that it is fixed to the tube and leaves
6mm of tube exposed.
The tape is wrapped around the tube at least one and a half times

Conditioning

Condition the samples for a minimum of 4 hours in an atmosphere of 20 + 2°C and 65 + 4% RH.

Test Procedure

a) Before commencing the test, clean the inside of each box with the soft brush/vacuum cleaner to
remove fluff and debris from the previous test.

b) Place the 4 prepared test specimens in the same pilling box. Close and secure the lid.

c) Tumble the tubes in the box for the number of revolutions as per the performance standard.

d) Remove the samples from the box.

There are 3 elements of the test which cause the fabric to pill.

i) The 6mm of polyurethane left exposed at the end of each tube, rubbing against the fabric.
ii) The cork liners rubbing against the fabric.
iii) The fabric rubbing against itself.
Assessment of the specimens
-The assessment has to be done with 3 trained persons independently; as result take the
average of all 9 grading.
- The assessment has to be done in the light box
- For the assessment the pilled specimen is not fixed, it has to be looked in every angle by
rotating the specimen to assess the extremest condition (angle, which shows the most pilling).
TECHPACK
TECHPACK
Techpack Type Apparel Techpack due date 26/10/2020 Created by Harsh Raj & Ravikant
No. of item(s) 1 Status In progress
Style no. 1KT0069 Season Spring
Style Category Knit Tops
Size Range M

A Hoodie Front
B Hoddie Front Opening
C Decorative Stitches
D Front Panel
E Bottom Opening
F Hoddie Back
G Back Panel
H Bottom Opening
TECHPACK

Main Material
Knits
MAterial no. Material Name Content Status Placement
KNT00019 Cotton Jersey Knit 100% cotton In progress Body

Thread
Material no. Material name Placement Color
THR00018 Serging Thread All DTM

Labels
Material no. Material name Placement
LAB00021 Care Label Right side seam
LAB00030 Brand Label Name Back center back neck
TECHPACK

Product Type Sleeveless tshirt with cap

Sample Size M

Description Size(M)
Front Length 25 1/2
Chest width (knit) 20 1/4
Across Shoulder 15
Shoulder Slope 1
Across chest/Center armhole 13 3/4
Across Back/Center armhole 14
Waist Width (knit) 19
Bottom opening 20
Armhole width 9
Neck Drop Front 4
Neck Drop Back 1/2
Neck width 9 1/2
Front Hood Length 13
Back Hood Length 19 1/2
Hood Stand Height 3 1/2
Hood width 9 1/2
TECHPACK

Class Sub class Feature Details

Cover stitch 2 needle
Bottom Placement :
Bottom Hem, Arm
Edge Treatements Stitch details Coverstitch 2 Needle holes
Superimposed
Overlock Seam, Side
seam, Shoulder
Seaming Plain Superimposed seam Overlocked seam - Serged Seam
Two plain seam
Top stitch Decorative Stitching Topstitch Straight Double needle top stitch topstitch 1/4" apart
Hood is self lined with
a stand collar of 3.5",
attached to neck
Hood garment detail Hood seam
Topstitch decorative stitching Topstitching straight Single Needle Topstitch Plain Seam - Straight
Insert binding to
cover seam
allowance Placement:
Edge Treatements Binding Binding - Insert seams Neck/Hood Seam
TECHPACK
Care Instructions
Washing Machine Wash, Warm
Cycle Machine Wash, Warm Permanent Press
Bleachine NA
Drying Tumble Dry, Permanent Press, MEDIUM HEAT
Ironing NA
Dry Cleaning Very gentle cleaning with PCE

Special Instruction
Machine Wash Permanent Press, Tumble Dry
TECHPACK
Swift tack two inches down from armhole seam on right side of the garment.
FINAL GARMENT
Patterns

BACK
FRONT
HOODIE
FINAL GARMENT
Challenges Overcome
● Unavailability of proper equipments to make pattern
● Unavailability of stitching machine
● Practical guidance
● Ongoing offline internship
● Unavailability of fabric, old bed sheet used.

Stitching Machine

THANK YOU