Dressmaking Grade 9 Prepared by: Ms. Natalie Jane F.

Fiestada

LEARNING MATERIAL NO. 1 OBJECTIVES:

At the end of this learning module, I should be able to:
Name:___________________________________ ___ 1. Identify the differences of each types of sleeves;
Section:_____________________________________ 2. Draft pattern of different type of sleeves accurately;
Teacher:_____________________________________ 3. Create different types of sleeves; and
4. Show creativity and workmanship on my work.
Date:________________________________________

TYPES OF SLEEVES 2. Make slashes from top to bottom.

3. Spread the slashes according to the
Sleeves are used to cover the arms. The sleeves for desired fullness.
women’s have different styles and cut. 4. Add 3 cms. from A upward.
Measurements Needed: 5. Trace the sleeve with the flared effect
a. Armhole from A and it should gradually decrease
b. Arm girth in size up to B.
c. Sleeve Length
2. Gathered at the Bottom
1. Set-in Sleeves
This sleeve is done the tailor’s way and is based
on your sleeve foundation pattern.

How to draft the pattern:

1. Draw a perpendicular line.
2. A is corner of two lines.
3. AB is 5 inches downward.
How to draft the pattern:
4. AC is length of sleeve. Draw a horizontal line
1. Use the sleeve foundation pattern as the
for A, B, C.
base.
5. AD is ½ of armhole measurement to the right
2. Make slashes from top to bottom.
6. CE is ½ of arm girth to the right. Connect DE.
3. Spread the slashes according to the
7. F is the corner of B and D. Connect A and F.
desired fullness.
8. AF measurement = G
4. Add 1 ½ cms. from C downward.
2
5. Trace the sleeve with the flared effect
9. AG measurement = H + 1/2” upward
from C and it should gradually decrease
2
in size up to E.
10. GF measurement= I and ¼ inch
2 downward. Connect A,
3. Gathered at Top and Bottom
H, and G with a curve
line. So with G, I, and F.

How to draft the pattern:

6. Use the foundation pattern as base.
7. Make slashes from top to bottom.
2. Puff Sleeves 8. Spread the slashes according to the desired
A puff sleeve has fullness so that it flares. Fullness fullness.
is the added width to give a flared effect. There 9. Add 3 cms. from A upward and 1 ½ cms.
are three variations of the puffed sleeve. from C downward.
1. Gathered on Top-it is done by adding fullness 10. Trace the sleeve with the flared effect
to the upper portion of the sleeve. decreasing the size until it reaches B and E

How to draft the pattern:

1. Use the foundation pattern as base.

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 Dressmaking Grade 9 Prepared by: Ms. Natalie Jane F. Fiestada

3. Cut out the front and do the same

3. Bell Sleeves procedure with the back bodice.
A long sleeve fitted from the shoulder to elbow 4. Add an extra 1/2 inch (for seam allowance)
and gently flared from elbow onward. around the curve and shoulders of the shirt.
5. Cut out the fabric.
6. Sew bias facing.
7. Place FRONT and BACK piece together with
RIGHT sides together (making sure your
necklines are lined up evenly). Sew right
along the two shoulders, using a 1/2 inch
seam allowance.
8. Stitch the hem all the way around the shirt,
1/2” from the edge.
9. Sew a seam right along the shoulder seam.
10. Place pins right along both sides, pinning the
shirt front and back together. You don’t
want the pins too close to the body leave
How to draft the pattern: some room, it should be loose. Also, make
1. Use the foundation pattern as base. sure that the two top pins on each side start
2. Draw vertical lines along the grainline (from at the same point.
shoulder point to hem), and again on each 11. Sew a seam in place of both sets of pins.
side of the grainline, dividing the sleeve into 12. If you want to add an elastic at empire waist,
four relatively even sections. measure empire waist which will be found
3. Cut along those lines (use a "slash and right below your bust. Then, whatever that
spread" technique). measurement, add another 1.5 inches to
4. Spread the pieces apart with about 1" that number. Then divide that by 2 and cut
between each section.
two pieces with that length.
5. Then add about 1" on each side seam for a
bit more flare. Mark a point roughly half way 13. Turn the shirt inside out and then mark where
between the underarm and the hem (this is each elastic end will be attached on the
the elbow area) and draw a line flaring front of the shirt first.
away from the side seam 1" at the hem. (The 14. Keep your elastic evenly pulled and sew a
red dashed line is the original side seam of zigzag stitch.
the blouse sleeve). This is part of what makes
the sleeve a bell rather than just a wide 5. Angel Sleeves - The Angel Sleeve dress is pure
sleeve. classic—the simplest of forms for a little girl--with
full gathers falling from the neck and a flutter of a
4. Butterfly Sleeves – this has the sleeve cut with the sleeve. Make it full or blouse length, and solid or
front and back bodice continuously cut and with contrasting panels.
sewn.

How to draft the pattern

How to Draft the Pattern:
1. Start tracing along the neckline of the front
bodice pattern and extend the shoulder up
to the desired length of the sleeve.
2. Elbow location is more suitable and starts
drawing line downward. As you draw
downward, angle it in a bit towards the
bottom of the shirt. But don’t angle it in too
much because you want some width for the
butterfly effect. When you reach the bottom
(or down to the length you want your shirt),
round the corner and then keep the bottom
of the shirt rounded slightly not straight
across. You can stop here, with only half the
shirt outlined.

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 Dressmaking Grade 9 Prepared by: Ms. Natalie Jane F. Fiestada

ASSEMBLING THE SLEEVES 5. Insert the sleeve into the armhole with
the right side together. Match the notch
1. In assembling the sleeves, the first step to of the sleeve with the shoulder. Stitch
be made is to staystitch entire cap with a curved seam.
sleeves leaving 3” length of thread on 6. Pull out the sleeve and check if the
both ends. sleeve fits the armhole smoothly.
2. Pull thread to ease the sleeve cap. Stitch 7. Attach the sleeve on the side. Do the
the underarm of sleeve and fold the same on the other sleeve.
hem. 8. Put out the right side of the blouse.
3. Insert the sleeve into the armhole with Check the sleeve for smoothness of
the right side together. Match the notch workmanship.
of the sleeve with the shoulder. Stitch
with a curved seam.
4. Pull out the sleeve and check if the
sleeve fits the armhole smoothly.

Name:_________________________________________
Section:________________________________________
Teacher:_______________________________________
Date:__________________________________ ________

SELF-CHECK NO. 1

I. IDENTIFICATION:

Direction: Write the word of the correct answer on the space provided.

1. This type of sleeve has fullness so that it flares.____________

2. This is the added width to give a flared effect.__________
3. This variation of puff sleeve is done by adding fullness to the upper portion of the sleeve.____________
4. A long sleeve fitted from the shoulder to elbow and gently flared from elbow onward.___________
5. This has sleeve cut with front and back bodice continuously cut and sewn.______________
6. This variation of puff sleeve is done by adding fullness to the lower portion of the sleeve.____________
7. The following measurements are needed to draft the sleeve foundation pattern ________, __________,
and __________?
8. This type of sleeve is done the tailor’s way and is based on sleeve foundation pattern.__________

ACTIVITY NO. 1

II. DRAFT THE SLEEVE FOUNDATION PATTERN AT THE BACK OF THIS PAPER USING THE MEASUREMENT
BELOW.

Sleeve Length: 7”
Armhole: 6”
Arm girth: 4”
PROJECT NO. 1

III. GIVEN THE FOUNDATION PATTERN FOR THE SLEEVE, FRONT AND BACK BODICE, SUBMIT DIFFERENT TYPES
OF SLEEVES AND ATTACH IT ON A BOND PAPER. IT WILL BE PART OF YOUR PORTFOLIO.
A. Set-in
B. Puff
C. Bell
D. Butterfly
E. Angel

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 Dressmaking Grade 9 Prepared by: Ms. Natalie Jane F. Fiestada

LEARNING MATERIAL NO. 2 OBJECTIVES:

Name:___________________________________ ___ At the end of this learning module, I should be able to:
Section:_____________________________________ 1. Name the differences of each types of collars;
2. Draft pattern of different type of collars accurately;
Teacher:_____________________________________ 3. Create different types of collars; and
Date:________________________________________ 4. Show creativity and workmanship on my work.

TYPES OF COLLARS

Collars are bands attached over necklines.

Sometimes they are cut as part of the front bodice.
Measurements Needed: 3. Sailors Collar – the shape of this collar is derived from
a. Neck the sailor’s uniform.

1. Sports Collar – this is a narrow stand-up collar fitted

closely to the neck.

How to Draft the Pattern:

1. Lay flat the front and back bodice pattern.
2. Design the neckline of the front.
3. Make a slanted line up to the end of the
shoulder. From this line, draw another line about
15 cms. towards the back. Make another line
How to Draft the Pattern:
towards the center back. Thus, all these lines will
1. A-B = 6 cms.
form half of a rectangle.
2. A-D = ½ neck measurement ( use the neck
measurement from the drafted pattern-front
4. Flat Collar- lies flat over the neckline and shoulder.
and back neckline)
3. B-C = AD
4. B-F ¼ neck measurement
5. C-G = 1 cms. upward
6. D-H = ½ cms.
7. D-I = ¼ cms.
8. Connect E to I and G-F with a hip curve.
9. Connect G to H with a straight line extending it
such that EI will be extended for both lines to
How to Draft the Pattern:
meet. Mark the meeting point J.
1. Lay flat both the front and back bodice pattern.
2. Trace the neckline and mark the center fold
2. Peter Pan Collar- this collar has a stand at the back
with a straight line.
which gradually lessens until the collar lies flat at the
3. Label the front and the back.
base of the throat.
4. Make the style line for the collar.
5. Cut the pattern.

HOW TO MAKE COLLARS

1. Place Pelon on top of the wrong side of fabric.
2. Enclose seam the lower portion. (E to E).
3. Start sewing from B to D.
4. Place threads in between the tip of the collar
and stitch twice, then pivot, leaving the needle.
How to Draft the Pattern: Then insert the other half of the thread. Rotate
1. Get the shape of the neck hole of the front and the thread together.
back bodice pattern.
2. Add 1.5 cms. as overlap at the outer shoulder of ATTACHING THE COLLAR
both patterns (front and back bodice) without
changing the neckline position. 1. Match and sew the edges of the collar with the
3. Make the style line for the front of the collar and right sides facing each other.
continue up to the back. Measure 6 cms. for the 2. Cut edges at seam allowance and trim it to 1cm.
center fold at the back. 3. Invert the collar to the right side and attach it to
4. Cut the pattern. the neckline of the blouse by basting.
4. Baste the collar to the bias facing. Then sew.

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 Learning Module No.1
Dressmaking Grade 9 Prepared by: Ms. Natalie Jane F. Fiestada

5. Slash seam allowance and understitch the you are using a false bias, you have to fold the
facing. Understitching is sewing on the top side of facing as you sew around the neckline. Allow a
the facing to make it lie perfectly flat. distance of about 6 cms. from every fold to make
6. If a facing is used, attach it in the same way as up for stretching, since a false bias does not
the facing was sewed on the collar. The only stretch like the true bias.
difference is that this time it is sewed directly on
the neckline without a collar under it. However, if

Name:_________________________________________
Section:________________________________________
Teacher:_______________________________________
Date:__________________________________ ________

SELF-CHECK NO. 2

I. Multiple Choice
Direction: Encircle the letter of the correct answer.
1. This is a narrow stand-up collar fitted closely to the neck.
a. Flat Collar
b. Sports Collar
c. Peter Pan Collar
d. Sailor’s Collar
2. This type of collar lies flat over the neckline and shoulder.
a. Flat Collar
b. Sports Collar
c. Peter Pan Collar
d. Sailor’s Collar
3. It is sewing on the top side of the facing to make it lie perfectly flat.
a. Understitch
b. Hemstitch
c. Staystitch
d. Backstitch
4. In drafting pattern for collar, what is the distance between point A to point B?
a. ¼ neck measurement
b. 6 centimeters
c. ½ neck measurement
d. 1 centimeter upward
5. This collar has a stand at the back which gradually lessens until the collar lies flat at the base of the
throat.
a. Flat Collar
b. Sports Collar
c. Peter Pan Collar
d. Sailor’s Collar
II. ESSAY. Answer at the back.
What is the difference of each collar from each other? (5pts.)

ACTIVITY NO. 2
III. DRAFT THE FOUNDATION PATTERN FOR THE COLLAR AT THE BACK OF THIS PAPER USING THE
MEASUREMENT BELOW.
1. Neckhole = 16”
PROJECT NO. 2
IV. SUBMIT DIFFERENT TYPES OF COLLARS AND ATTACH IT ON A BOND PAPER. IT WILL BE PART OF YOUR
PORTFOLIO.
a. Flat Collar
b. Peter Pan Collar
c. Sailor’s Collar
d. Sports Collar

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 Learning Module No.1
Dressmaking Grade 9 Prepared by: Ms. Natalie Jane F. Fiestada

LEARNING MATERIAL NO. 3 OBJECTIVES:

Name:___________________________________ ___ At the end of this learning module, I should be able to:
Section:_____________________________________ 1. Name the differences of each types of skirts;
2. Draft pattern of different type of skirts;
Teacher:_____________________________________ 3. Create different types of skirts; and
Date:________________________________________ 4. Show creativity and workmanship on my work.

TYPES OF SKIRTS 11. Find your top dart point. Measure 1 cm to

each side and mark. .
Skirt is a kind of free-hanging garment extending from 12. For back pattern of the skirt, Repeat steps 1-9
the waist down. exactly like your skirt front.
Measurements Needed: 13. On step number 10 your dart measurement
a. Waistline will have an additional 1” downward
b. Second Hips 14. On step number 11, instead of measuring 1
c. Length of Waist to Hips cm to each side of top dart point, you are
d. Length of Waist to Knee going to measure 1.5 cm for the back dart.
Connect dart points as you did on the skirt
front.
1. Pencil Skirt- These are fitted down to the knee. A
pencil skirt is a slim-fitting skirt with a straight, 2. Balloon Skirt- A skirt cut in sections to make one
narrow cut. Generally the hem falls to, or just or more circles with a hole for the waist, so the
below, the knee and is tailored for a close fit. It is skirt is very full but hangs smoothly from the waist
named for its shape: long and slim like a pencil. without darts, pleats, or gathers.

1. Measure your waist.

2. Fold the fabric 4 folds.
3. Divide the waist measurement by 6.28.
4. Round off the measurement and draw a
1. Draw a perpendicular line. quarter-circle with radius all the way around.
2. Mark corner point A.
3. A-B waist to hip measurement
4. A-C skirt length Draw a horizontal lines for B,
and C
5. A-D ¼ waistline measurement plus 1 inches
(for dart allowance)
6. D-E is 1 cm upward
7. B-F is ¼ of second hip measurement +1/2
inch to the right
8. Connect E to F with a hip curve. 5. From the quarter-circle measure the skirt
9. For a true pencil skirt, the skirt should curve in length + 3cm.
from the knees towards the bottom hem.
Measure 2in (6cm) inwards from the outer
bottom edge of the rectangle. Mark this 3. Pleated Skirt-Pleats are folds of fabric that
point out. Gently curve the skirt inwards provide fullness. They vary in size depending on
towards this mark. the degree of fullness you want. They may be
10. Find half-way point of your waistline or the pressed or underpressed and stitched or
bust distance. Mark it. This will be the top understitched. The different ways of folding the
dart point. Mark this top dart point on your fabric results to the various kinds of pleats
hipline as well (this will be your bottom dart namely; knife, box and inverted. Pleats can be
point). Draw a straight line between the top placed in other parts of the garment not only on
dart mark and the dart mark on your hipline. the skirt. Remember that a pleat is twice its size;

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 Dressmaking Grade 9 Prepared by: Ms. Natalie Jane F. Fiestada

thus, a waistline of 50 cms. needs 100 cms. of

fabric. The total material will be 150 centimeters.

a. Knife Pleats - are uniformly folded and they

follow one direction. To make this, fold the
desired pleats until the measurement of the
waistline is produced.

How to Make Peplum Skirt

1. Cut a fabric base on Pencil Skirt pattern. Cut
all the way around, going up about 3 inches
for the waist band.
2. Cut out the 3 inches you cut for the band in
b. Box Pleats - these are formed by two pleats step 1.Set aside. Sew down the sides of the
following opposite directions leaving a skirt right sides facing each other.
certain distance between them as the 3. To make the peplum, fold down the
center. remaining fabric on the folded side of your
knit. Once folded down, bring the right piece
together with the middle of the fold so that it
forms a triangle.
4. Cut an arc or semi-circle on the bottom of
your triangle.
5. Cut an arc 2″ from the tip of your triangle.
Open up the triangle/peplum and hold it up
against the waist of your skirt. If its too small,
c. Inverted Pleats – is made by making two fold back the triangle and cut in 1″ intervals
pleats face each other towards a center until the peplum matches the waist of the
line. The wrong side forms a box plant. skirt.
6. You can hem the bottom of the peplum if
you want a polished look. If not, you can
leave as is. Take the peplum and fit it inside
the skirt top with the right sides facing each
other. Then, take the waist band that you
made earlier and fit it over the skirt and
peplum sandwich. Again, ensure your right
sides are facing each other. Pin all the way
around. Sew all three together
4. Gathered Skirt – these are used not only in skirts 7. Fold in the top of your waist band half way
but also in full sleeves and yoke lines. To make down and sew all the way around. You can
gathers: also serge the edges before you fold down.
8. The last step is to hem the bottom. Again you
can serge before you hem or just hem with
raw edges.

6. Bubble Skirt – The bubble skirt consists of an outer

skirt which is gathered onto a lining. Bubble
garments look best in rather light fabrics such as
1. Measure the skirt length. (double) gauze and lawn.
2. Transfer the measurement to the fabric by
marking 2 cms at the top of the fabric then
measure the skirt length and then 3 cms.
3. Zigzag the raw edges.
4. Staystitch the 2cm allowance. Pull the thread
for shirring.
5. Push the fabric until the desired fullness or
until the measurement of the waistline is
achieved. How to Make Bubble Skirt
6. Fold the hemline. 1. Cut a rectangular piece of the fabric for main
fabric of skirt. Width equals waist measurement
5. Peplum Skirt - a short full flounce or an extension x.5 (if your waist is 40 inches you will need to add
of a garment below the waist, covering the hip. 20 inches making it 60 inches). If you are using a
lighter, silkier fabric for the main fabric you can so

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 Dressmaking Grade 9 Prepared by: Ms. Natalie Jane F. Fiestada

much as double the waist measurement for the an inch for seems. Height equals length minus
width. Depending on how textured you want it to one inch.
be. Height equals length plus 3 inches. Length 3. Cut elastic. Elastic length equals waist
measurement is from the waist down to however measurement minus one inch.
low you want the skirt to be.
2. Cut a rectangular piece of silky fabric for lining.
Width equals Hip measurement plus a half inch to

Name:_________________________________________
Section:________________________________________
Teacher:_______________________________________
Date:__________________________________ ________

SELF-CHECK NO. 3

I. Draw the type of skirt describe on each statement.

1. This skirt is uniformly folded and they follow one
direction.
2. These are formed by two pleats following opposite
directions leaving a certain distance between them
as the center.
3. This is a slim-fitting skirt with a straight, narrow cut.
4. A skirt cut in sections to make one or more circles
with a hole for the waist, so the skirt is very full but
hangs smoothly from the waist without darts, pleats,
or gathers.
5. A short full flounce or an extension of a garment
below the waist, covering the hip.

ACTIVITY NO. 3

II. DRAFT THE FOUNDATION PATTERN FOR THE SKIRT AT THE BACK OF THIS PAPER USING THE MEASUREMENT
BELOW.
Waistline: 20”
2nd Hips: 23
Length: 12”
Waist to hip measurement: 4”
PROJECT NO. 3

III. GIVEN THE FOUNDATION PATTERN FOR THE SLEEVE, FRONT AND BACK BODICE, AND THE PROCEDURE,
SUBMIT DIFFERENT TYPES OF SLEEVES AND ATTACH IT ON A BOND PAPER. IT WILL BE PART OF YOUR
PORTFOLIO.
a. Pencil
b. Balloon
c. Pleated
d. Gathered
e. Peplum
f. Bubble
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 Dressmaking Grade 9 Prepared by: Ms. Natalie Jane F. Fiestada

LEARNING MATERIAL NO. 4 OBJECTIVES:

Name:___________________________________ ___ At the end of this learning module, I should be able to:
Section:_____________________________________ 1. Identify the uses of different types of fasteners
2. Apply attaching different types of fasteners on fabric; and
Teacher:_____________________________________ 3. Show creativity and workmanship on my work.
Date:________________________________________

TYPES OF FASTENERS 6. At the end of the slash, make the buttonhole

stitches form a fan pattern but they should
Fasteners are used to close opening of your garments. have the same length as those in the edges.
In choosing fasteners, you have to consider the kind of 7. Continue making buttonhole stitches up to
fabric, the style of the garment, and the location of the the other end. Make a bar by stitching across
fastener. The most commonly used fasteners are the one two or more times in the same position. The
described here. stitches should be in line with the buttonhole
stitches on both edges. Fasten the thread on
1. Buttons and Buttonholes- mark the location of the wrong side.
buttons before attaching them. The position can
be located by lapping the edges of the opening.
They should correspond with the buttonholes. 2. Snap – these are used when there is very little
strain on the opening. They may be placed on
the front, back and side opening. Snaps have
two parts; the half containing the ball and the
other half containing the socket.

How to sew the button on garment:

1. Take one or two small stitches at the point
where the button will be attached using
double thread. How to sew the snaps on garment:
2. Hold a pin across the top of the button and 1. Mark the location of snap
stitch over it. Sew many times over the pin 2. Take a small stitch in the marked location.
through the fabric. 3. Sew half of the snap containing the ball
3. Remove the pin and bring the needle using overcast or buttonhole stitch. See to it
between the button and fabric. that no stitches show on the right side of the
4. Wind the thread under the button several cloth. Do these until you finish sewing all the
times to make a shank. A shank is needed to holes then fasten the thread on the wrong
provide thickness of the fabric at the side.
buttonhole when the garment is closed. The 4. To find the location of the center of the
length of the shank should be the same as corresponding half containing the socket,
the thickness of the buttonhole. press the half containing the ball. Mark the
5. Fasten the thread securely. center.
5. Sew the socket so that it fits the ball.
How to make handworked buttonholes:
1. Mark the position on the right side of the 3. Hook and Eye – these are used on parts of
garment. garment subject to strain. The amount of strain
2. Make a rectangle around the marked line by and the weight of the fabric determine the size
stitching it. The stitching serves as guide for of the hook as well as the number of hooks to be
the depth of the buttonhole. used. There are two shapes of the eyes, either
3. Cut on the buttonhole using sharp scissors. straight or round. Straight eye is usually used
4. Before you begin to sew make sure that the when openings overlap while the round eye is
thread is enough to sew the buttonhole. used when edges meet.
5. Begin sewing close to the corner or starting
point. Use buttonhole stitch throughout. See
to it that they are parallel to each other in
orderly rows.

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 Dressmaking Grade 9 Prepared by: Ms. Natalie Jane F. Fiestada

3. Separating Zippers - their lengths vary from

10-26 inches. These have metal teeth only.
They open on both ends.

5. Magnetic Tape - Hook-and-loop fasteners, hook-

and-pile fasteners, or touch fasteners (colloquially
known as Velcro) consist of two components:
typically, two lineal fabric strips (or, alternatively,
round "dots" or squares) which are attached
(e.g., sewn, adhered, etc.) to the opposing
How to sew hook and eye in garment: surfaces to be fastened. The first component
1. Place the hook on the underside of the features tiny hooks; the second features even
overlap or at the edge of the opening. smaller and "hairier" loops. When the two
2. Sew first one ring of the hook using overcast components are pressed together, the hooks
or buttonhole stitch, then sew the other ring. catch in the loops and the two pieces fasten or
Next, sew the bill of the hook taking two or bind temporarily during the time that they are
three stitches. Be sure no stitches are seen on pressed together. When separated, by pulling or
the right side. peeling the two surfaces apart, the strips make a
3. On the underlap opposite of the hook, sew distinctive "ripping" sound. It is especially popular
the eye and fasten the thread when finished. in clothing where it replaces buttons or zippers
and as a shoe fastener for children who have not
4. Zipper – there are different types of zippers. They yet learned to tie shoelaces and for those who
may have a metal teeth or synthetic coil, which choose Velcro over laces. Touch fasteners are
are seen on both sides, others have covered used in adaptive clothing, which is clothing
teeth. designed for people with physical disabilities, the
elderly, and the infirm who may experience
difficulty dressing them due to an inability to
manipulate closures, such as buttons and zippers.

Zippers are classified into

1. Dress Zippers – both ends of the zipper are
closed. These zippers are from 10-14 inches
long.
2. Shirt and Neckline Zippers – one end of the
zipper is open. The length ranges from 4-30
inches.

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 Dressmaking Grade 9 Prepared by: Ms. Natalie Jane F. Fiestada

Name:_________________________________________
Section:________________________________________
Teacher:_______________________________________
Date:__________________________________ ________

SELF-CHECK NO. 4
I. Draw a heart if the statement is correct while a broken heart if the statement is incorrect.
________1. Snaps are used when there is very little strain on the opening.
________2. Fasteners are used to close closing of your garments.
________3. Dress Zippers have both ends of the zipper are closed. These zippers are from 10-14 inches long.
________4. Place the hook on the topside of the overlap or at the edge of the opening.
________5. Snaps have two parts; the half containing the ball and the other half containing the basket.
________6. In making handworked buttonholes, make a rectangle around the marked line by stitching it. The
stitching serves as guide for the depth of the buttonhole.
________7. Shirt and Neckline Zippers have their lengths vary from 10-26 inches. These have metal teeth only.
They open on both ends.
________8. Straight eye is usually used when edges meet while the round eye is used when openings overlap.
________9. A shank is needed to provide thickness of the fabric at the buttonhole when the garment is closed.
________10.Fasten the thread on the right side when making handworked buttonholes.

PROJECT NO. 4

II. Sew different types of fasteners on fabric.

a. button and buttonholes
b. snap
c. hook and eye
d. zipper

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 Dressmaking Grade 9 Prepared by: Ms. Natalie Jane F. Fiestada

LEARNING MATERIAL NO. 5 OBJECTIVES:

Name:___________________________________ ___ At the end of this learning module, I should be able to:
Section:_____________________________________ 1. Identify different types of pockets, facing, and hem finishes;
2. Apply attaching different types of pockets, facing, and hem finishes;
Teacher:_____________________________________ 3. Value the importance of pockets in daily life.
Date:________________________________________

TYPES OF POCKETS and standard 2.5mm stitch length.

Complete for all 4 pieces (2 front and 2
Pocket is a small bag or pouch attached to a garment back; if having a pocket on each side).
used as a place for money, handkerchiefs, or wallet. 3. Open the Pocket out (away from the
Sometimes pocket are used for decoration. body of the garment) and press the
seam towards the Pocket.
1. Patch Pocket- attached at the right side of the 4. Finish the seam using an overlocker or
garment. This is found in blouses, polo shirts, zigzag stitch along the pocket opening
jackets, pants, dresses, and skirts. and side seam area. The rest of the seam
will be finished as one with the
completed pocket at the end. See point
8 for further details and alternative
options.
5. Place the back and front RIGHT sides
together. Match the seams together,
above and below the Pocket. Stitch 5/8″
(1.5cm) along the side seam of the
garment. DO NOT sew over the pocket
opening. Sew the garment in 2 steps;
between the Pocket notch and the hem,
How to Make Patch Pocket and the Pocket notch and the
1. Cut 5”x6” size of fabric and mark 3cms top underarm. Back tack at the start and
hem and 1cm side seam allowances. end of the seam.
2. Fold top edge 0.5 cm to the wrong side and 6. Next stitch around the Pocket itself, start
stitch. and stop at the stitching line joining the
3. Fold down the top edge along the 3cm garment pieces together. Sew a 5/8″
allowance to the right side. (1.5cm) seam allowance around the
4. Stitch along seam allowance or fold line. pocket in a circular motion… REMEMBER
5. Trim and turn top edge on the right side. no square corners!
6. Fold each side of the pocket. 7. Neaten the raw edges on the pocket
7. Miter the corners. with an overlocker or zigzag machine
8. Position and pin the pocket on the garment. stitch. Alternatively if you are adding a
9. Topstitch the pocket leaving 1/8” lining don’t waste the time! With this
allowance from the edge. example both seam allowances were
overlocked together on the original
garment, so for continuity the seam was
2. Seam Pocket- placed inside the garment. overlocked from the underarm down,
around the pocket, finishing at the hem.
This was pressed to the front with the
pocket.

3. Welt Pocket - Welt pockets are a great option

when you want to add a pocket to a garment
without the added bulk of a pocket flap, for
example on slim-fitting pants or the front of a
blazer.

How to Make Seam Pocket

1. Place the pocket on the RIGHT side of
the garment, RIGHT sides together,
pocket facing in towards the garment.
Match the tailors tacks / notches
together. Pin in place. How to Make Welt Pocket
2. Machine stitch the pocket in place
between the notches, back tack at both 1. For each pocket, you'll need a welt (this
ends. Use a 3/8″ (1cm) seam allowance should measure the length of your pocket

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 Dressmaking Grade 9 Prepared by: Ms. Natalie Jane F. Fiestada

plus 1/2 inch and double the width of your

desired welt plus 1 inch), two pocket pieces,
matching thread, contrasting thread, and
tailor's chalk or a water erasable marking
pen.
2. To begin, fold the welt in half lengthwise,
right sides together, and sew the short ends
2. Extended Facing – it is found in polo shirts front
together with a 1/4 inch seam allowance.
opening, blouses, blazers, and vest. It is 2 ½ o 3
3. Clip the top corners of the welt to reduce
inches wide for the blouse or polo shirt with sports
bulk.
collar or standing collar
4. Turn and press.
5. Using a contrasting color thread, baste the
welt together 1/2 inch from the raw edge.
6. With contrasting thread, baste a 1/4 inch
seam on the top edge of pocket piece A.
7. Mark the placement of the pocket opening
on the right side of your garment with chalk
or a marking pen. The opening should be 3. Bias Facing – to do this, cut a bias strip four times
equal to the finished size of the welt. Mark desired width plus 1/4” plus 2” for finishing the
the middle of the placement with a ends. Double fold the bias and place on the right
horizontal line. side of the garment with 1” extending beyond
8. On the right side of your garment, line up the closing edges and sew. Clip the seam
the raw edge of the welt with the center allowances and turn to remove bulkiness. Turn
line. With the right side down, line up the the folded bias on the wrong side and baste. Top
basted edge of pocket piece A on the top stitch. Finally lock the closing edges with a hood
half of the center line. Pin the welt and and eye. This is used to finish the waistline of the
pocket piece in place. skirt without a band. It is also used in finishing the
9. Stitch the welt in place along the neckline and armhole or arm girth of a blouse.
contrasting stitching line. Stitch the pocket
in place along the contrasting stitching line.
Remove the basting stitches.
10. On the wrong side of the garment, cut
through the center line, stopping 1/2 inch
from either end. Clip the ends into a Y
shape. The triangles will be stitched down
later to secure the pocket.
Interfacing gives shape to buttonholes, collars, lapels
11. Push the pocket through and adjust to lay
and waistbands of garments. To do this, pin or baste the
flat. Press. Turn the welt up and press.
interfacing on top of the wrong side of the 2 pars of
12. With the right side down, sew pocket piece
fabric. The interfacing could be of the same materials or
B to the welt along the raw edge.
pelon, truvenized cloth or coco.
13. Fold the fabric back and sew the triangles
to the pocket (backstitch a couple of times
for a strong seam). If your fabric is
particularly bulky, use the zipper foot to get HEM FINISHES
as close as possible to the bottom of the
triangle.
14. Sew the pocket together and finish the Hem finish is a finish made by folding the lower edge of
edges. Pinking the edges is the quickest skirts, blouses, sleeves and other parts of a garment.
option and won't add any extra bulk to the
pocket. 1. Seam Tape or Binding—this prevents raveling and gives
15. On the right side of the garment, hand stitch a smooth appearance to hems. The common materials
the short edges of the welt to the garment. used are commercial bias made of silk, cotton and
ribbons.
TYPES OF FACING AND INTERFACING

Facing do much good for the look and comfort of

garments. The purpose of a facing is to neatly finish and
conceal raw edges by turning it to the wrong side of the
garment. Facing is made beautifully if it lies flat and
smooth.

1. Fitted Facing – it is found in necklines and

armholes. It is trace on the necklines and
armholes and is cut 2 inches wide.

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2. Stitched and Overcast– the hem is invisible from the 4. Turned Under-this is used in light and medium weight
outside, stitched securely without bulk. Stitch 1/4” from washable fabrics, on sheers and limp hems. To do this turn
raw edge using overcast edge. Using this stitching as in the raw edge 1/4” and stitch close to the fold.
guide, turn the edge back 1/4” and blind hem.

5. Zigzag finished edge– this is an effective finish for

3. Stitched and Pinked– an effective finish for fabrics fabrics that easily ravel. To do this, stitch 1/4” from the
which do no ravel. 1/4” of fabric is stitched from the free zigzag edge and hemstitch
raw and the edge is pinked and hemstitched.

Name:_________________________________________
Section:________________________________________
Teacher:_______________________________________
Date:__________________________________ ________

SELF-CHECK NO. 5
I. Draw and define the three different types of pockets.

II. Identify the pictures below.

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 Dressmaking Grade 9 Prepared by: Ms. Natalie Jane F. Fiestada

PROJECT NO. 4

III. Sew different types of pockets on a fabric.

a. patch
b. seam
c. welt
IV. Sew the different types of hem finishes.

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 Dressmaking Grade 9 Prepared by: Ms. Natalie Jane F. Fiestada

REFERENCES:

Bell Sleeve retrieved from

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bell_sleeve
Clothing Patterns 101 retrieved from
http://www.clothingpatterns101.com/bell-sleeve.html
Easy Peplum Skirt retrieved from
http://thestitchingscientist.com/2013/10/easy-
peplum-skirt.html
The Circle Skirt retrieved from
http://www.danamadeit.com/2008/07/tutorial-the-
circle-skirt.html

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