SOUTHEAST UNIVERSITY

Department of Textile Engineering

B.Sc. In Textile Engineering

AN ASSIGNMENT ON
Properties of Knit Fabric and Testing Instruments
Course Code: Tex 3015
Course Title: Textile Testing & Quality Control-II

Submitted to
Mr. Rajib Saha
Assistant Professor
M. Sc. in Textile Engineering (TU-Dresden Germany)
B.Sc. in Textile Tech. (DU)
Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University

Submitted by
Jatul Akmam Rahi
ID # 2018000400061
Batch # 37th; Section # 01
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering
Department of Textile Engineering
Southeast University
25thNovember, 2020
 Knit Fabric

Knit fabric is a textile that results from knitting, the process of inter-
looping of yarns or inter-meshing of loops. Its properties are distinct
from woven fabric in that it is more flexible and can be more readily
constructed into smaller pieces, making it ideal for socks and hats.

There are two basic varieties of knit fabric:

1. weft-knit and

2. warp-knit fabric.

Properties of knit fabric:

The topology of a knitted fabric is relatively complex. Unlike woven

fabrics, where strands usually run straight horizontally and vertically,
yarn that has been knitted follows a looped path along its row, as with
the red strand in the diagram at left, in which the loops of one row have
all been pulled through the loops of the row below it.

Because there is no single straight line of yarn anywhere in the pattern, a

knitted piece of fabric can stretch in all directions. This elasticity is all
but unavailable in woven fabrics which only stretch along the bias.
Many modern stretchy garments, even as they rely on elastic synthetic
materials for some stretch, also achieve at least some of their stretch
through knitted patterns.
The basic knitted fabric (as in the diagram, and usually called a stocking
or stockinette pattern) has a definite "right side" and "wrong side". On
the right side, the visible portions of the loops are the verticals
connecting two rows which are arranged in a grid of V shapes. On the
wrong side, the ends of the loops are visible, both the tops and bottoms,
creating a much more bumpy texture sometimes called reverse
stockinette. (Despite being the "wrong side," reverse stockinette is
frequently used as a pattern in its own right.) Because the yarn holding
rows together is all on the front, and the yarn holding side-by-side
stitches together is all on the back, stockinette fabric has a strong
tendency to curl toward the front on the top and bottom, and toward the
back on the left and right side.

Stitches can be worked from either side, and various patterns are created
by mixing regular knit stitches with the "wrong side" stitches, known as
purl stitches, either in columns (ribbing), rows (garter, welting), or more
complex patterns. Each fabric has different properties: a garter stitch has
much more vertical stretch, while ribbing stretches much more
horizontally. Because of their front-back symmetry, these two fabrics
have little curl, making them popular as edging, even when their stretch
properties are not desired.
Different combinations of knit and purl stitches, along with more
advanced techniques, generate fabrics of considerably variable
consistency, from gauzy to very dense, from highly stretchy to relatively
stiff, from flat to tightly curled, and so on.

Testing for knit fabrics:

Normally, following tests are carried out for knitting fabrics:

• Pilling

• Extension

• Thickness

• Air permeability

• Abrasion resistance

• Fabric weight

• Bursting strength
 Testing instruments:

Fabric weight:

The instrument used to determine the GSM of the knitted fabrics is

called the sample cutter for GSM, as shown in Fig. It is a device which
accurately cuts the circular fabric specimens of 100 sq cm from a
fabric. The knitted fabric to be cut is placed between the sample cutter
and a special cutting board.

Figure:

Fig: GSM Cutter

Machine parts:

• Handle wheel (Handle)

• Diamond studded locking mechanism (Safety catch)

• Special rubberized cutting pad (Mat)

• Stainless steel plate for fixing blade

• Screw for fixing blade

• Screw for fixing the stainless steel plate

• Cut specimen

• Main body

• Special guide bush

Procedure:

 At first we take the knit fabric sample and place the sample on the
cutting board.

 Put the GSM cutter on the fabric & drive the handle by pressing
GSM cutter, the blades of GSM cutter is cut the accurately.
  The circular fabric specimens of 100 sq cm are getting from knit
fabric sample.

 The circular fabric is placed on electronic balance and takes the
reading of electric balance that is our fabric weight.

Precaution:

 We have to cut the fabric very carefully to take the sample.


 The GSM cutter should be placed very carefully on the cloth and the
handle should be driven in such a way that the cloth pattern can be
cut properly.

 We have to read the electric balance very carefully so that, we get the real
weight of the fabric.

Bursting strength:

The distending force, which is applied at right angles to the plane of

the fabric, under specified conditions, which will result in the rupture
of a textile.

(In Other Word) Bursting strength test is an alternative method of

measuring strength in which the material is stressed in all direction at
the same time and is therefore more suitable for such material.
Types of Bursting Strength Test:

1. Diaphragm bursting test.

2. Ball bursting test.

I. Diaphragm Method:

A is clamped over an expandable diaphragm. The diaphragm is

expanded by fluid pressure to the point of specimen rupture. The
difference between the total pressure required to rupture the specimen
and the pressure required to inflate the diaphragm is reported as the
bursting strength.

Apparatus and Materials:

Hydraulic Diaphragm Bursting Tester: A testing machine that meets

the requirements of. In cases of dispute, a motor-driven tester shall be
used unless the purchaser and the supplier agree otherwise.

Clamps: For firmly and uniformly securing the test specimen between
two annular, plane, parallel, and preferably stainless steel surfaces,
without slippage during the test. Use sufficient pressure to effect the
practicable minimization of slippage.
Diaphragm: A 48 mm (1.875 in) diaphragm of Molded synthetic
rubber, 1.80 6 0.05 mm (0.070 6 0.002 in.) in thickness with reinforced
center, clamped between the lower clamping plate and the rest of the
apparatus so that before the diaphragm is stretched by pressure
underneath it the center of its upper surface is below the plane of the
clamping surface. The pressure required to raise the free surface of the
diaphragm plane shall be 30 6 5 kPa (4.3 6 0.8 psi).

Pressure Gage: A maximum-reading pressure gauge of the Bourdon

type of appropriate capacity graduated in pounds and accurate
throughout the entire range of its scale to within a value of 1 % of its
maximum capacity. The capacity of the gage shall be such that the
individual readings will be not less than 25 % nor more than 75 % of the
total capacity of the gauge.

Hydraulic Pressure System: A mean of applying controlled increasing

hydrostatic pressure to the underside of the diaphragm until the
specimen bursts through a fluid displaced at the rate of 95 6 5 ml/min.
The fluid is displaced by a piston in the pressure chamber of the
apparatus.
Figure:

Fig: Diaphragm Bursting Test

Sampling:

Lot Sample: As a lot sample for acceptance testing, take at random the
number of rolls of fabric directed in an applicable material
specification or other agreement between the purchaser and the
supplier. Consider rolls of fabric to be the primary sampling units.

Laboratory Sample: As a laboratory sample for acceptance testing,

take a full width swatch 1 m (1 yd) long from the end of each roll of
fabric in the lot sample, after first discarding a minimum of 1 m (1 yd)
of fabric from the very outside of the roll. From each roll or piece of
circular knit fabric selected from the lot sample, cut a band at least
305 mm (1 ft.) wide.

Test Specimens: Cut ten test specimens from each swatch in

the laboratory sample with each specimen being.

30mm Dia

113mm Dia

Conditioning: Bring the specimens from the prevailing atmosphere

to moisture equilibrium for testing in the standard atmosphere for
textile testing Measurement.

Procedure:

Make all tests on specimens conditioned in the standard atmosphere

for testing textiles as directed.

Hand Driven Tester:

Insert the conditioned specimen under the tripod, drawing the specimen
taut across the plate, and clamp specimen in place by bringing the
clamping lever as far to the right as possible. Rotate the hand wheel,
clockwise at a uniform speed of 120 rpm until the specimen bursts.
Stop turning the hand wheel at the instant of rupture of the specimen.
Immediately after rupture and in rapid succession, release the
clamping lever over the specimen.

Immediately release the strain on the diaphragm by turning the wheel

counterclockwise to its starting position and record the pressure
required to inflate the diaphragm (tare pressure). Record the total
pressure required to rupture the specimen.

Motor-Driven Tester:

Insert the specimen under the tripod, drawing the specimen taut across
the plate, and clamp specimen in place by bringing the clamping lever
as far to the right as possible

Inflate the diaphragm by moving the operating handle to the left.

While the diaphragm is inflating, take hold of the latch that is located
below, or to the right, of the operating

At the instant of rupture of the specimen, swing the latch as far as it

will go to bring the operating handle to an idling (neutral) position.
Record the total pressure required to rupture the specimen.

Immediately after rupture, and in rapid succession, release the

clamping lever over the specimen.
II. Ball Bursting Test:

 These tests are done by coated fabric.


 Not for ordinary knitted fabrics.

 In the test a 25 mm diameter steel ball is passed through the
stretched fabric can the force is required do so the recorded.

 This test cannot be carried using an attachment on a standard
tensile tester.

 The result from this test is not directly comparable with
the result of diaphragm bursting test.

 This test measure forces only not the force per unit area.

Fig: Ball bursting test

Significance and Use:
This method for the determination of diaphragm bursting strength
of knitted, nonwoven and woven fabrics is being used by the textile
industry for the evaluation of a wide variety of end uses.

Calculation:
Calculate the bursting pressure of each specimen by subtracting the
tare pressure required to inflate the diaphragm from the total pressure
required to rupture the specimen. Report the pressure reading of each
individual specimen and the average for each laboratory sampling unit
and the lot. Report the type of bursting tester used.

Pilling:
Pilling is formation of little balls of fibers (pills) on the surface of a
fabric which is caused by abrasion in wear. Pilling is the tendency of
fibers to come loose from a fabric surface and form balled particles
of fiber.

Fig: Pilling on fabric

Causes and Way to Remove Fabric Pilling:
Fabric pilling is actually a process of entanglement of fabric fibers. It’s
often caused by friction, either from rough washing cycles or abrasive
detergents. Fabric pilling, which will affect the appearance of fabrics
and reduce the use performance of fabrics. But it doesn’t affect the
durability or functionality of the fabric. Fibers such as wool, cotton,
polyester, nylon and acrylic have a tendency to pill the most, but wool
pilling diminishes over time. Whereas pilling of synthetic textiles is a
more serious problem, because the stronger fibers hold on to the pills
preventing them from falling off.

There are several ways to remove pilling from your fabric and but the
most effective and quickest way to remove pilling in fabrics and textiles
is the use of battery-powered pill shaver or remover. To avoid pilling
generally singeing process is done the loose fibers protruding on the
surface of textile, and spinning the yarn with a high number of twists per
inch. Some fabrics are chemically treated during the manufacturing
process in order to reduce their propensity to pill. Polymeric coatings are
sometimes applied to bind fibers into the fabric surface and prevent
initial fuzz from forming.

Pilling Resistance Test:

Purpose and Scope: This method is intended for the determination of
the resistance of textiles of all kinds in all forms to the action of an
applied resistive force. This causes pilling in the tested fabrics

Apparatus:

  Pilling tester
  Metal plates 4 inch diameter and 1 inch thick
 Standard for assessing the pilling grade
Working Procedure:
A piece of fabric measuring 10×10 inch is sewn to a firm fit when
placed round a rubber tube. The out end of the fabrics is covered by
cellophane tape and metal plates are placed on the tester .Run the tester
for 300 cycles. Remove the sample and compare the sample with
standard scale.
Standard:
Pilling Standard: 3-4 gray scale matching

ICI BOX PILLING TEST:

 For this test four specimens each 5 inch X 5 inch are cut from the
 fabric.
 A seam allowance of 12mm is marked on the back of each square.
In two of the samples the seam is marked parallel to the warp
 direction and in the other two parallel to the weft direction.
 The samples are then folded face to face and a seam is sewn on the
 marked line.
 This gives two specimens with the seam parallel to the warp and
 two with the seam parallel to the weft.
 Each specimen is turned inside out and 6mm cut off each end of it
 thus removing any sewing distortion.
 The fabric tubes made are then mounted on rubber tubes so that the
length of tube showing at each end is the same. Each of the loose
ends is taped with poly (vinyl chloride) (PVC) tape so that 6mm of
 the rubber tube is left exposed as shown in Figure.
 All four specimens are then placed in one pilling box.
  The samples are then tumbled together in a cork-lined box as
 shown in Figure.
 The usual number of revolutions used in the test is 18,000 which
take 5 hrs.

Assessment:
The specimens are removed from the tubes and viewed using oblique
lighting. The samples are then given a rating of between 1 and 5 with the
help of the descriptions in Table.

Thickness:
The thickness of textiles is measured with a touching system, by
lowering a plate of defined weight and size onto the textile surface and
detecting the height in which the plate stops. While this measurement
usually results in realistic values for woven fabrics, knitted fabrics often
show a significant influence of the thickness resulting from the applied
weight. A recent research project thus aimed to measure this deviation
and determine whether it is suitable to extrapolate the measured height
values to the height of the unloaded fabric.
Accuracy of thickness measurements on knitted fabrics:
The thickness of textiles is measured with a touching system, by
lowering a plate of defined weight and size onto the textile surface and
detecting the height in which the plate stops. While this measurement
usually results in realistic values for woven fabrics, knitted fabrics often
show a significant influence of the thickness resulting from the applied
weight. A recent research project thus aimed to measure this deviation
and determine whether it is suitable to extrapolate the measured height
values to the height of the unloaded fabric.

Thickness measurement and compressibility of textiles: The

thickness of textiles is normally measured according to EN ISO 5084
[1]. This standard recommends imposing a pressure of 1 kPa on the
textile under examination by a stamp with diameter 50.2 mm. For
special textiles, such as roughened woven fabrics, pile woven fabrics
and certain warp knitted fabrics, only a pressure of 0.1 kPa is to be used.
The fact that textiles are compressible is explicitly addressed in the
standard DIN 53885. In this standard the compressibility is defined as
the thickness difference between measurements under pressures of 0.2
kPa and 2 kPa [2]. In literature, examinations of the relation between
pressure on a knitted fabric and its thickness can especially be found for
spacer fabrics [3-7]. On the other hand, there are papers about the real
diameter of yarns [8] as well as theoretical and experimental studies of
the behavior of fiber assemblies under pressure [9-11]. According to van
Wyk [9], the pressure p is related to the volume v and the original
volume v0 by

Assuming that the part of the textile which is displaced by the stamp to
the outside is negligible, the volumes can be substituted by the
thicknesses d and d0 with a constant which has to be determined
experimentally, and which includes the unknown relaxed thickness d0.
While in an older paper by Eggert and Eggert [10], the exponent, called
“pliability”, was variable, it is here determined as 3 or 1/3, respectively.
This is criticized, e.g., in [11] by referring to experimental results. In
order to compare this value to our results, we chose the same fitting
function; the fitting procedure is performed by Origin. Additionally,
according to practical applications, the consequences of different
compressibility’s of the knitted fabrics under examination are evaluated
in terms of thickness measurements according to EN ISO 5084.

Pressure dependence of the measured thickness:

While in EN ISO 5084 and DIN 53885 standards, the fabric thickness is
only determined by one or two different pressures, in a recent project,
several pressures have been used to measure the thickness of a knitted
fabric by means of a Frank thickness tester. Fig. 1 shows exemplarily the
results for a polyester knitted fabric (structure: roll welt – 4 courses
front, 1 course all needles). Obviously, the fitting function according to
Eq. (2) fits well; however, the exponent is not 3, as in van Wyk’s
equation, but approximately 9. With these values, the thickness of the
relaxed knitted fabric can be extrapolated to 1.68 mm, equivalent to a
difference of roughly 5 % to the measurement with the lowest weight
(0.1 kPa). Thus, even by using the lowest weight recommended in EN
ISO 5084, significant deviations of the measured values from the real
thickness of the unloaded fabric can occur.
Fabric, here shown exemplarily for a “roll welt” (4 courses front, 1
course all needles) weft knitting structure made of 100 % polyester with
its fitting function.

Structure and material dependence of the fitting parameters:

In order to gain an overview of the spectrum of the fitting parameters
and the differences between measurements with low weights and
extrapolation to the unloaded state, different structures and yarns
have been examined. Table 1 gives an overview of the fabrics under
examination.
Table 1:

Details about yarn and fabric parameters of the samples under

investigation, with PES = polyester, CO = cotton, PA = polyamide, LA
= Lamb’s wool, EL = elastane, PAC = polyacrylics, CJ = color
jacquard, E = machine gauge.
Air permeability:
Present the research results of air permeability. The range of values
obtained is significant, ranging from 469.9 to 729.2 cm3 /cm2 /s for
viscose and 412.1 to 801.8 cm3 /cm2 /s for modal fabrics. The porosity
determines the variation of air permeability. Fabrics having low porosity
values show the lowest value for air permeability. Increasing fabric
tightness by machine setting decreased the air permeability in both
fabrics. Coarser yarn produces fabrics with more intra-yarn air spaces but
with fewer inter-yarn air spaces resulting in lower air permeability. Air
permeability increases for the fabrics made from finer yarns as expected.
The lower thickness and mass per square meter also
facilitate the passage of air through the fabric. The lower hairiness of
the finer yarn may be another contributing factor towards the better air
permeability. As the loop length increases, the air permeability value
also increases porosity of knitted fabrics.

(V: Viscose; M: Modal; 1: Ne 30s; 2: Ne 40s; P: Pique structure; T:

Tightness factor)

From the (Tables 1), it reveals that as for the same yarn linear density
the thickness was increased by

Increasing the fabric tightness. Thicker yarns increased thickness in both

fabrics. The barrier ability of knitted fabrics to the air as fabrics
thickness function, is presented in (Figure 2 and 3). It shows that
Viscose Pique Ne 30s (R= 0.9612) and Ne 40s (R= 0.6269) , Modal
Pique Ne 30s (R= 0.46) and Ne 40s (R= 0.33) have negative correlation
between air permeability and thickness. This was expected to some
extent as air has to travel a more complex path and faces higher
frictional forces during its passage through the fabric. As R, the
correlation is considered too high which means that the regression
equation is reliable for prediction of the air permeability in the fabric
thickness range using the yarn counts Ne 30s in viscose pique structures.

Fig: Air permeability in function of thickness of viscose pique knitted

fabrics.

Conclusion:
In this research project, a large variety of knitted fabrics with different
parameters has been examined, concerning their compressibility and the
resulting measurements according to EN ISO 5084 as well as an
extrapolation of the measured values to the unloaded fabric. The results
depend strongly on the materials and knitted structures. For all knitted
fabrics, we could show that measurements with a pressure of 0.1 kPa
instead of the recommended 1 kPa can describe the thickness of the
unloaded fabric much more precisely. The “pliability” differs
significantly from the value 3 which has been introduced by van Wyk
and depends strongly on the knitted structure.

We may see from the above test results that the air permeability of fabric
knitted with Ne 40s is determined higher. Air permeability has a direct
relationship with the count of the yarn. Increase in yarn fineness and
more open structure of the knitted fabric improved air permeability. Air
permeability, is a function of knitted fabric thickness, tightness factor
and porosity. Air permeability showed a negative correlation with fabric
thickness and tightness factor. Tightness factor can be used for fabric air
permeability forecasting. The high correlation between the permeability
to air and tightness factor confirms that. Porosity is affected by yarn
number or yarn count number. The effect of the loop length has more
influence on porosity than the stitch density and the thickness.
Increasing loop length, looser the structure and so the values of air
permeability increases. Air permeability is a good indicator of how a
textile material will behave towards heat-loss as a thermo-physiological
property. The higher air permeability rate the quickest heat-loss obtained
from a textile material. For summer wear or sportswear modal pique
structure could be used as it is characterized by higher air permeability,
creating a cool feeling to the wearer by allowing more cold air to
penetrate through to bring the heat away from the body and accelerate
the sweat evaporation at the skin and fabric surface.
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