adjust the position of other sets of

Indexing elements opens up all sorts of possibilities

in design space.

Introduction

Many mini lathes don’t come with an Neither system requires permanent
indexing head, so the utility of making one modifications to your lathe, as the
for such a lathe is obvious. But the indexing disks mount on your lathe spindle
indexing heads on even top of the line behind your chuck or faceplate, and the
lathes leave something to be desired from locking mechanism slides in the lathe
both a design and use standpoint. A ways. The basic concepts could be easily
popular number of divisions for indexing adapted to a permanently mounted system Drawing1: Pattern for the Basic
heads is 24. Which is fine if your design by changing the disk location and locking
calls for 6 elements, but what if it calls for Disk
mechanism.
5 or 7 elements? Even if your design will
work with 6 elements, what if you want a If you have a CAD program for your
spiral? With a 24 division indexing head Basic Disk computer, you’ll probably find it easier
you’re stuck with 15° or one of its and far quicker to draft the pattern on your
multiples. Adding an indexing head with To make the Basic Disk you can select PC. While I can’t pretend to know how to
more holes isn’t an optimal solution either, almost any stable material. I recommend use every CAD program, in TurboCAD
because more holes makes it more likely ¼” plywood as it’s light, cheap, stable, and it’s quick work to draw a 7” circle, then
that at some point you’ll pick the wrong strong for its size. Once you have the use draw straight lines for the notch, and
one. material you need a pattern. then use Radial Copy to make the number
of notches you want. You can print the
This article will describe two related drawing out on plain paper and use spray
To manually lay out a pattern for the Basic
indexing systems you can make. The adhesive to fasten it to your plywood as in
Disk, use a compass to draw a 7” circle
Basic system lets you design for any Fig01, or print it on 8-1/2x11 label stock.
right on your plywood. Draw another
number of elements you wish. For the circle 6-1/4” in diameter with the same
Basic system you simply drill a hole to fit center to mark the height of the V-notches
your lathe spindle in a plywood disk and you’ll make later. Mark the center so you
cut V-notches on the rim with your band can easily find it again. Decide how many
saw. If you want five elements, cut five divisions you want, then use a compass or
notches, if you want eight, cut eight, etc. dividers to divide the circumference.
You can pick any number of elements you Mark a starting point, make a guess setting
like, and you don’t have to worry about the dividers, and walk them around the
picking the wrong indexing position circumference. Correct your setting by
because you use them all. The disk is dividing your error by the number of
locked in position with a tapered V block divisions and try again. Three trials should
that slides on your lathe bed. get you the accuracy you need. Mark the
divisions, and then draw a right angle
The Adjustable System lets you infinitely notch, vertex pointing to the center, height
adjust the relationship between subsequent determined by the 6-1/4” circle, at each
sets of elements. You can pick any spiral division.
you like or follow a freeform curve. For FIG01:The Basic Disk Pattern
the Adjustable system you make a single You can also photo-copy Drawing1 and fastened to ¼” Plywood
SubDisk, including a degree scale if you use spray adhesive to attach the copy to
like, and mount Notched Rings on the sub- your plywood. Change the number of Once you have the pattern on plywood,
disk. It uses the same block to lock the notches to suit your needs. move to your drill press and drill a hole in
system. The Notched Ring is mounted to the center that matches the spindle
the SubDisk with three screws, allowing diameter of your lathe as in Fig02.
you to rotate it to any position and lock it
in place. Being able to pick any number
of elements you like and subsequently
FIG02: Drilling a hole that
matches the lathe spindle diameter FIG06: Tracing the bed profile
in the center of the Basic Disk. onto the horizontal part.
Note that the Disk is securely
clamped to the drill press table, for FIG04: Cutting the notches in the
both safety and accuracy. Basic Disk. Cut the notches,
especially the peaks, as accurately
The final step is to cut out the Basic Disk as you can.
on your bandsaw. Saw it to a circle first,
as in Fig03, then cut the notches as in
Fig04. The completed Basic Disk is
shown in Fig05.

FIG07: The horizontal part after

tracing the bed profile.

To make the vertical V part, first mount an

indexing disk on your lathe. Hold it in
place with a faceplate or chuck body. Put
the horizontal sliding block in the lathe
bed under the indexing disk. Cut a block
of wood that is 2” long, 1” thick, and about
½” wider than the distance between the top
FIG05: The completed Basic Disk. of the horizontal block and the top of a
notch on the indexing disk when it is
Locking Slide directly over the center of the lathe bed.
Hold the vertical block in place and trace
the outline of the V-notch on the Indexing
Mini to Midi Lathes Disk onto the block. Draw a pair of
FIG03: Cutting out the Basic Disk
on the Bandsaw. Cut it to a circle cutting lines 1/8” higher than the traced
The disks are locked in place by a sliding lines. Alternately, measure the distance
first.
block with a tapered V that fits on the between the horizontal block and the top
ways of the lathe bed. It has two pieces; a of the V-notch, add 1/8” to that distance,
horizontal part that slides along the bed, mark it on the block and draw a V. Next
and a vertical tapered V. Make the draw a line from the bottom corner of one
horizontal piece first. Start with a block of side to a point ¼” up from the bottom
wood as long as the width of your lathe corner of the opposite side. Fig08 shows
bed, 2” wide, and at least 1” thick. Hold it the block with cutting lines.
up against the tailstock end of your lathe
bed so that the bottom of the block is
aligned with the bottom edges of the bed
rails. Trace the opening between the rails
and the top of the rails directly onto the
block, as in Fig06 and Fig07. Then cut
along the traced lines with your bandsaw.
Test the fit in the lathe ways. You want it
to slide easily but not sloppily.
FIG08: The vertical part after
drawing the cutting lines.

Cut the vertical block on your band saw. FIG11: The completed Locking
Stand it on end to cut it into a V, then cut Slide and Basic Disk mounted on
along the diagonal line at the bottom to the lathe.
make it tapered. Take the vertical block
back to lathe and try out the fit as in Fig09.
Make any needed adjustments and then Large Lathes
glue the blocks together as in Fig10.
FIG14: The Large Locking Slide. I
Fig11 shows the completed Basic Disk and I had my small lathe in mind when I got
Locking Slide mounted on the lathe. the idea for the Indexing Disk, and I didn’t take a picture before I cut
wasn’t sure if it would work at all on my the tapered V, so pretend…
large (26” swing) bowl lathe. That’s why
the Locking Slide I made for it is, well, When the glue is dry, mount it in the lathe
temporary and crude looking. Enough bed ways, and trace where the top of the
excuses. To make one, proceed more or V-Notch is. Draw a pair of cutting lines
less the same way, only with bigger pieces. 1/8” below the traced lines. Move to your
Cut a horizontal block about 2” wide, 2” band saw. Attach a scrap block with tape
thick, that is as long as your lathe bed is to the base end of the Locking Slide and
wide. Trace the outline of your lathe bed adjust its placement so that when the top of
at the tailstock end and cut along the lines the Locking Slide and the bottom of the
and check the fit. scrap block rest on the saw table you have
a taper somewhere in the neighborhood of
Cut a vertical piece that is 2” wide and ½” 1:8. Now cut on the cutting lines to create
longer than the distance between the top of the tapered V as in Fig12. Try it out on
the horizontal block and the top of a V- your lathe and make any required
notch on the mounted Indexing Disk. I adjustments. The completed Large
FIG09: Test fitting the Locking Locking Slide is shown mounted in Fig13.
used MDF. Glue the vertical block to the
Slide before gluing together. horizontal block, using a right angle block
to reinforce the joint as in Fig14.

FIG12: Cutting the tapered V on

FIG10: Clamping the Locking
the Large Locking Slide. Tape a
Slide together until the glue sets.
scrap block to the lower part of the
slide to maintain a constant angle,
and then cut the V.
 concept is material independent, so I’ll just
tell you the pluses and minuses and let you
make your own choice.

Aluminum is durable, accepts threading

well, and comes flat and true. But I had
trouble drilling big holes accurately in it.
To do so I had to clamp it down hard
enough to mess up my degree scale (added
it later instead). A multispur bit cut a good Drawing2: Adjustable Sub-Disk
hole but I may have dulled it a bit. I tried
pattern without scale.
a hole saw but ended up with a ragged
oversize hole.

¼” Plywood is easily available, cheap, and

FIG13: The Large Locking Slide easy for a woodworker to work with.
mounted on the lathe. You’ll have to be careful to clean up any
ragged edges around the center hole so
Adjustable Indexing your faceplate or chuck will run true. The
main drawback is threading. Actually
plywood taps quite well, but the threads
Having an infinitely adjustable locking
won’t last long enough to pass along to
mechanism for an indexing system makes
your grandchildren if you habitually over-
for much more design flexibility. My first
torque screws.
thought for converting the Basic Disk to
adjustable locking involved a pivoting arm Drawing3: Adjustable Sub-Disk
with an adjustable pivot point. It did work,
pattern with scale.
and I could convert it to foot
operated…but it was rather complicated, ¼” Plexiglas works easily enough with
fussy, and of limited range because the woodworking tools if approached gently to
arm would foul on the lathe bed. Using a avoid invocating its brittle nature. It forms
SubDisk to hold a Notched Ring that can stronger threads than plywood and comes
rotate turned out to be a much simpler and flat and true. You can find it in most big-
more elegant solution. box hardware stores.

SubDisk

The Adjustable Indexing system used a Once you’ve picked the material for your
SubDisk that mounts on your lathe spindle. SubDisk, attach the pattern to it. You can
It has three threaded holes that accept copy Drawing2 or Drawing3 or download
round head socket machine screws to lock it from www.davidreedsmith.com and FIG15: Applying the SubDisk
a Notched Ring in place. Adding a degree attach it to the material with spray cement
scale is a nice but simple option. The Pattern to ¼” Plexiglas. This
as in Fig15. The pattern will stay legible pattern was printed on a page
Notched Ring is the same as a Basic Disk longer if you protect it with some sort of
except for a much bigger center hole. It sized label. Protect the label
transparent film. I usually use clear
uses the same Locking Slide to lock the packing tape. surface by taping over it.
lathe spindle in place.
Drill a hole at the center of the SubDisk
Materials using a drill that matches the diameter of
your headstock spindle. Back up the
SubDisk and drill slowly so you don’t get
The first consideration is what material to
tear out on the bottom side as in Fig16. A
make the SubDisk out of. There is no
Forstner or multFigspur bit will be most
ideal material of course; the primary trade-
accurate. If you’re using aluminum, go
offs are durability versus ease of
ahead and use a Forstner or MultFigspur
machining. I’ve tried 1/8” aluminum, ¼” bit and plan on sharpening it.
plywood, and ¼” Plexiglas. The basic
 would be too, if you have the appropriate difference is that the center hole will be 5”
speed and blade options available…I in diameter instead of the diameter of your
don’t. If your bandsaw is intended solely lathe spindle. Again, you have a choice of
for wood, you can cut out the aluminum materials. Aluminum is probably overkill.
using a bench mounted scroll saw, or a ¼” plywood will work well. You could
hand held scroll saw, with metal cutting use 1/8” or ¼” Plexiglas, although you
blades. If you’re impatient (and both of would have to be very careful cutting it out
these options take a while) you might try on a bandsaw, because the large tooth
making a series of straight cuts with a blades woodturners tend to have mounted
more aggressive cutting reciprocating saw can break away chunks of at least the
and spend a little more time turning the thinner Plexiglas. After you’ve mounted
SubDisk true. the pattern to your material, cut it out on
FIG16: Drilling the spindle hole in your band saw. Pay particular attention to
the center of the SubDisk. the V-notches and try to get the peak of the
notch cut accurately.
Clamp the SubDisk on your drill press,
and drill a hole with a #7 drill bit at one of Cutting out the interior of the Notched
the marked locations for the Notched Ring Ring will require a different method than
locking hardware as in Fig17. Remove the on the Basic Disk, as 5” drill bits are both
drill bit, insert a minFigtap guide, and tap uncommon and unsafe on ordinary
the threads with a 1/4x20 tap as in Fig18. equipment. Oh, I take that back, having
Repeat for the other two mounting holes. just looked online, you CAN get a 5” hole
saw…for $50 or so. If you have a bench
mounted scroll saw you can cut out the
interior of the Notched Ring using it as in
FIG19: Cutting out the SubDisk Fig21.
on the bandsaw.

Mount the SubDisk on your lathe. You

can hold it in place with a faceplate, chuck,
or a nut that fits your lathe spindle if you
have one. Turn the rim of the SubDisk
true as in Fig20. If you are using
Aluminum or Plexiglas, keep the speed
slow and cuts very light. I found a small
FIG17: Drilling tap holes in the bowl gouge worked well for all three
SubDisk. materials.

FIG21: Cutting out the interior of

the Notched Ring on a scroll saw.

If you don’t have a scroll saw, mount a

wooden disk with a diameter greater than
7” to you lathe. Pin the Notched Disk to
the wooden disk using your tailstock live
center. Dimpling the center of the
Notched Disk with a drill or center punch
will make it easier to accurately center it.
You may wish to secure the rim of the
FIG18: Tapping the SubDisk with Notched Disk to the wooden disk with tape
a 1/4x20 tap and a mini-tap guide. so it doesn’t rattle around when cut
The mini-tap guide insures that the FIG20: Turning the SubDisk true through. Turn the lathe on at a moderate
holes are tapped straight. on the lathe. Make very light cuts. speed and cut through on the inside of the
line with a parting tool as in Fig22.

After the holes are drilled, cut out the Notched Ring
SubDisk. How you do this depends on
what material you selected. Cutting out To make a Notched Ring, start with a
Plywood or Plexiglas will be easiest on pattern following the instructions for the
your bandsaw as in Fig19. Aluminum Basic Disk (Drawing1). The only
 using the Indexing system only for use
when power is off. You may also wish to
unplug your lathe when the indexing
system is locked to avoid inadvertently
starting the lathe.

With the Basic Disk, if you want a

particular orientation when starting, you
can allow the disk to slip until that position
is reached.

To lock the Indexing System, slide the

Locking Slide towards the headstock until FIG24: Can your Indexing head
the tapered V of the Locking Slide mates
FIG22: The set-up to cut out the do this? An example of what can
securely in the center of a V-notch in the
interior of the Notched Ring with a Basic Disk or Notched Ring. To unlock, be done with the Advanced
parting tool on the lathe. slide the Locking Slide towards the Indexing System and a drill guide.
Tailstock. The drilled holes were filled with
You can make a mark on the inside of the plaster mixed with black acrylic
Notched ring, either with a marker or a When using the Advanced system, you can paint.
file, to aid in changing the settings by a adjust the offset of the second or
specific amount. You can attach the subsequent sets. Loosen the screws Tools and Materials
Notched Ring to the SubDisk using any holding the Notched Ring in place, rotate it
1/4x20 thread size hardware. Round head by the required amoung, and retighten the Basic
socket machine screws are probably safest screws. You can change the offset by a set
if you intend to turn on the lathe with the number of degrees using a mark on the
Indexing System attached. Collared thumb Notched Ring and the scale on the ¼” plywood
screws are probably most convenient. SubDisk. You can also layout the
Fig23 shows the completed system positions you wish to index to, say by Hardwood for locking slide
mounted on the lathe. drawing a freeform curve and marking
dots along it, and then adjust the indexing
Drill matching spindle diameter
system so that it locks at the position of
each dot.
Bandsaw
Have fun. I think you’ll find that either
Indexing System opens up all sorts of new Compass
opportunities in design space. When
laying out the notches for a particular Adjustable
project, consider that you don’t HAVE to
use single regular elements. You can also 1/8” aluminum or
use SETS of elements at regular intervals,
single elements at irregular intervals, or
both. ¼” plywood or

Fig24 shows a simple example of what the ¼” Plexiglas

adjustable indexing system can do with a
FIG23: The completed Adjustable bowl. 1/4x20 round socket head screws
Indexing System mounted on the
lathe
1/4x20 tap

Using
#7 drill

To use either indexing system, mount the

disk on your lathe spindle using a Drawings in PDF format
faceplate, chuck, or nut. Make sure it is
securely tightened so that there will be no Drawings in pdf format are
slippage. If your hands will be anywhere
near the headstock when turning, it will be available on my web site.
safer to complete the turning prior to
mounting the disk, and remount the project